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American Journal Of Biomedical Science & Pharmaceutical Innovation    
(ISSN – 2771-2753) 
VOLUME 02 ISSUE 12     Pages: 01-07 

SJIF IMPACT FACTOR (2021: 5. 705) (2022: 5. 705)  
OCLC – 1121105677    METADATA IF – 5.896 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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ABSTRACT 

The article presents the results of research on the selection of the composition and development of technology for a 

therapeutic and cosmetic lotion based on the plant polyextract “Phytoinflam”, intended for the prevention and 

treatment of acne. Lotion samples have been developed that differ in the type and concentration of the preservative, 

moisturizer and dispersion medium. The obtained samples were analyzed in accordance with the requirements of 

GOST 31679-2012 “Liquid cosmetic products. General technical conditions”. Based on the results of the analysis, the 

optimal composition of the therapeutic and cosmetic lotion was selected for further research. In order to improve 

consumer properties, it is proposed to introduce fragrances - essential oil of cloves into the composition of the lotion. 

The choice of this oil is made on the basis of studies confirming its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant 

properties. A technology for obtaining a therapeutic and cosmetic product based on the proposed composition is 

proposed. 

 

KEYWORDS 

Medical cosmetics, lotion, dry extract, technology, composition, preservatives. 

  Research Article 

 

SELECTION OF THE COMPOSITION AND DEVELOPMENT OF 

TECHNOLOGY OF MEDICAL-COSMETIC LOTION BASED ON PLANT 

EXTRACT 
 

Submission Date: December 11, 2022, Accepted Date:  December 16, 2022,  

Published Date: December 21, 2022  

Crossref doi: https://doi.org/10.37547/ajbspi/Volume02Issue12-01 

 

 

Malika B. Baratova 
Tashkent Pharmaceutical Institute Tashkent, Uzbekistan 

 

Yokut S. Karieva 
Tashkent Pharmaceutical Institute Tashkent, Uzbekistan 

Journal Website: 

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com/index.php/ajbspi 

Copyright: Original 

content from this work 

may be used under the 

terms of the creative 

commons attributes 

4.0 licence. 

 

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Volume 02 Issue 12-2022 2 

                 

 
 

   
  
 

American Journal Of Biomedical Science & Pharmaceutical Innovation    
(ISSN – 2771-2753) 
VOLUME 02 ISSUE 12     Pages: 01-07 

SJIF IMPACT FACTOR (2021: 5. 705) (2022: 5. 705)  
OCLC – 1121105677    METADATA IF – 5.896 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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INTRODUCTION 

One of the fundamental modern directions in the 

technology of production of medical and cosmetic 

products is the introduction of biologically active 

substances or their complexes into their composition, 

which have various therapeutic properties: anti-

inflammatory, antioxidant, wound healing, 

regenerating, photoprotective, etc. These complexes 

in most cases are represented by water, alcohol-water 

extracts from medicinal plant materials in the form of 

extracts in various aggregate states, juices, infusions 

and decoctions [1-4].   

According to the results of comprehensive studies, 

complexes of biologically active substances of plant 

origin are practically non-toxic, and their physiological 

activity is close to that of natural substances of internal 

metabolism [5].  

Considering the foregoing, the purpose of this 

research was to select the composition and develop a 

technology for a medical and cosmetic lotion based on 

a plant polyextract.  

 Materials and methods 

 As a substance in the selection of the 

composition and development of the technology of 

the lotion, the dry polyextract “Phytoinflam” was 

chosen, obtained by the staff of the Department of 

Technology of Dosage Forms of the Tashkent 

Pharmaceutical Institute from the bark of the common 

oak (Quercus robur L.) flowers of chamomile 

(Chamomilla recutita L.) and grass of a series of 

tripartite (Bidens tripartita L.). The results of preclinical 

studies confirmed the pronounced anti-inflammatory 

and wound healing activity of the selected polyextract. 

The extract was obtained by circulation extraction with 

the successive use of two extractants: purified water 

and ethyl alcohol. Purification of the obtained extract 

from ballast substances was carried out by adding 

activated carbon, followed by filtration [6,7]. 

As is known, in addition to the main complex of 

biologically active substances, when selecting the 

composition of a cosmeceutical agent, it is necessary 

to introduce auxiliary substances, such as acidity 

regulators, preservatives, flavoring agents, etc. For this 

purpose, we used the following excipients: glycerin, 

urea, salicylic acid, boric acid, sodium tetraborate, citric 

acid, aluminum alum, essential oils of clove, lavender 

and rose, ethyl alcohol of various concentrations, etc. 

Taking into account the literature data, as well as the 

proposal of pharmacologists, the plant polyextract 

“Phytoinflam” was included in the composition of the 

lotion at a concentration of 10%.   

The lotion test samples were analyzed according to [8]: 

the appearance and color were determined visually, 

the smell was determined from the surface of the 

medical and cosmetic product, the volume fraction of 

ethanol was determined by gas chromatography, and 

the pH value of the samples was determined 

potentiometrically. 

Results and discussion 

At the initial stage of research, the compatibility of the 

components of the lotion was tested. It was found that 

aluminum alum caused the precipitation of tannins 

present in the composition of the dry polyextract: as a 

result, this substance was not used in the selection of 

the composition of the medical and cosmetic lotion. 

The remaining excipients were compatible with the 

active substance and with each other. 

We have prepared lotions with more than 10 

compositions, differing in compositions of excipients. 

Table 1 shows the compositions of 7 prototypes, which 

in appearance met the requirements of regulatory 

documentation [8]. 

 

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Volume 02 Issue 12-2022 3 

                 

 
 

   
  
 

American Journal Of Biomedical Science & Pharmaceutical Innovation    
(ISSN – 2771-2753) 
VOLUME 02 ISSUE 12     Pages: 01-07 

SJIF IMPACT FACTOR (2021: 5. 705) (2022: 5. 705)  
OCLC – 1121105677    METADATA IF – 5.896 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Table 1 

Compositions of prototypes of cosmeceutical lotion based on dry polyextract “Phytoinflam” 

 

Name of ingredients KL-1 KL -2 KL -3 KL -4 KL -5 KL -6 KL -7 

Dry polyextract 

“Phytoinflam” 

10,0 10,0 10,0 10,0 10,0 10,0 10,0 

Glycerol 5,0 5,0  6,0 6,0  8,0 

Urea   2,0   1,5  

Salicylic acid    0,5 1,0   

Lemon acid 0,1     0,1  

Benzoic acid  0,3 0,5    0,3 

Boric acid 0,5 0,2    0,2  

Sodium tetraborate     1,0  0,5 

Ethyl alcohol 96% 20,0 40,0 35,0 25,0 30,0 30,0 25,0 

Purified water before 

100,0 

before 

100,0 

before 

100,0 

before 

100,0 

before 

100,0 

before 

100,0 

before 

100,0 

 

Lotions obtained according to the sample data were 

analyzed according to GOST 31679-2012 “Liquid 

cosmetic products. General technical conditions” 

according to the following indicators: appearance, 

color, smell, volume fraction of ethyl alcohol, pH value. 

The data obtained are shown in table 2. 

All analyzed samples of the lotion were homogeneous 

single-phase liquids without foreign impurities, from 

light brown to brown with a reddish tint. Despite the 

fact that the urea substance itself is odorless, the lotion 

samples according to the compositions KL-3 and KL-4, 

containing this moisturizer in their composition, had a 

slight smell of ammonia. This fact served as the basis 

for excluding these compounds from further studies. 

Lotions for the rest of the compositions had a woody 

smell, characteristic of the smell of the plant 

polyextract “Phytoinflam”. 

  

Table 2 

 

The results of the analysis of prototypes of medical and cosmetic lotion 

 

Lotion 

sample

s 

Определяемые показатели 

appearance Colour smell volume. 

share of 

ethanol, % 

рН 

KL-1 homogeneous single-

phase liquid without 

foreign impurities 

brown with a reddish tint 

characteristic of the color 

of the plant polyextract, 

which is part of the lotion 

woody smell 

characteristic of the 

smell of vegetable 

polyextract 

25,16 4,52 

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Volume 02 Issue 12-2022 4 

                 

 
 

   
  
 

American Journal Of Biomedical Science & Pharmaceutical Innovation    
(ISSN – 2771-2753) 
VOLUME 02 ISSUE 12     Pages: 01-07 

SJIF IMPACT FACTOR (2021: 5. 705) (2022: 5. 705)  
OCLC – 1121105677    METADATA IF – 5.896 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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KL-2 homogeneous single-

phase liquid without 

foreign impurities 

Brown with a brownish 

tint, characteristic of the 

color of the vegetable 

polyextract, which is part 

of the lotion 

woody smell 

characteristic of the 

smell of vegetable 

polyextract 

52,90 4,10 

KL -3 homogeneous single-

phase liquid without 

foreign impurities 

light brown color, 

characteristic of the color 

of the vegetable 

polyextract, which is part 

of the lotion 

woody smell 

characteristic of the 

smell of vegetable 

polyextract and a slight 

smell of ammonia 

46,34 6,91 

KL -4 homogeneous single-

phase liquid without 

foreign impurities 

brown color characteristic 

of the color of the 

vegetable polyextract, 

which is part of the lotion 

woody smell 

characteristic of the 

smell of vegetable 

polyextract 

33,61 3,88 

KL -5 homogeneous single-

phase liquid without 

foreign impurities 

brown with a reddish tint, 

characteristic of the color 

of the plant polyextract, 

which is part of the lotion 

woody smell 

characteristic of the 

smell of vegetable 

polyextract 

41,28 5,03 

KL -6 homogeneous single-

phase liquid without 

foreign impurities 

light brown color, 

characteristic of the color 

of the vegetable 

polyextract, which is part 

of the lotion 

woody smell 

characteristic of the 

smell of vegetable 

polyextract and a slight 

smell of ammonia 

40,09 7,11 

KL -7 homogeneous single-

phase liquid without 

foreign impurities 

brown color with a reddish 

tint, characteristic of the 

color of the vegetable 

polyextract, which is part 

of the lotion 

woody smell 

characteristic of the 

smell of vegetable 

polyextract 

32,40 6,82 

 

One of the main indicators of the quality of medical and 

cosmetic products is the volume fraction of ethyl 

alcohol. Despite the fact that for all prototypes this 

indicator was within the regulated limits, it was 

decided to exclude the compositions KL-1 and KL-2. 

Since it is highly likely that a low proportion of ethanol 

will cause an insufficient therapeutic effect 

(composition KL-1; 25.16%), and an increased content 

will cause excessive drying of the skin, as a result, its 

peeling and loss of elasticity (composition KL-2; 52, 

90%).   

Since the developed medical and cosmetic product is 

intended for the treatment of acne, and this disease is 

more often manifested in oily skin types, it is necessary 

that the pH of the lotion be slightly acidic. This explains 

the choice of organic acids as preservatives. According 

to [8], the pH value for lotions is regulated in the range 

of 1.2-8.5. All analyzed prototypes of medical and 

cosmetic products meet the requirements for this 

indicator. However, the lotion being developed is 

intended for the treatment of acne and will be used for 

oily skin, therefore, for the manifestation of the 

maximum therapeutic effect, its pH should be slightly 

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Volume 02 Issue 12-2022 5 

                 

 
 

   
  
 

American Journal Of Biomedical Science & Pharmaceutical Innovation    
(ISSN – 2771-2753) 
VOLUME 02 ISSUE 12     Pages: 01-07 

SJIF IMPACT FACTOR (2021: 5. 705) (2022: 5. 705)  
OCLC – 1121105677    METADATA IF – 5.896 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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acidic. Those. compositions KL-3, KL-6 and KL-7, having 

a practically neutral and slightly alkaline reaction, are 

not suitable for this type of lotion. According to the 

composition of KL-4, the prototype had an acidic pH 

value: as a result, it was also excluded from further 

studies.  

Based on the results of the analysis, we decided to 

select the composition of KL-5 for further research. In 

addition to the main BAS complex in the form of the 

Phytoinflam polyextract, this composition includes 

ethyl alcohol, glycerin, salicylic acid and sodium 

tetraborate. 

Ethyl alcohol is a necessary component in the 

composition of lotions, since it has an astringent, 

antiseptic effect. Also, due to its presence, moderate 

degreasing of the skin occurs, which is necessary in the 

treatment of acne [2]. 

Glycerin, having increased hygroscopicity, acts as a 

moisturizer and emollient. It prevents the loss of 

moisture and excessive drying of the skin as a result of 

the use of medical and cosmetic products, and also 

promotes its regeneration [2]. 

Sodium tetraborate has a moderate preservative and 

rather pronounced antiseptic property. In addition, 

researchers note its ability to cleanse the skin, and 

thanks to these properties, this component is widely 

used in medical and cosmetic products for the 

treatment of acne.  

In the composition we offer, salicylic acid at a 

concentration of 1.0% is used as the main preservative. 

This content was used on the basis of a study of 

literature data, which shows the allowable rate from 

0.5 to 1%. It was decided to consider the possibility of 

reducing the concentration of the preservative. For 

this purpose, lotions were prepared according to the 

composition of KL-5 with salicylic acid content of 0.5%, 

0.7% and 1%. 

However, an analysis of the microbiological purity of 

the prepared lotion showed that when the content of 

salicylic acid at a concentration of 0.5% - after 1 month, 

and at a content of 0.7% - after 2 months, an excess of 

the content of microorganisms relative to the norms 

given in the regulatory documentation was observed. 

Thus, it was found that 1% salicylic acid content is 

optimal for this lotion.  

In order to improve the consumer properties of the 

developed medical and cosmetic lotion, clove essential 

oil was added in the amount of 2 drops per 100 g of 

finished product. As is known today, various oils can be 

used as fragrances: rose, jasmine, chamomile, 

geranium, lavender, mimosa, frankincense, fir, lemon, 

mint, rosemary, etc. The choice of this particular oil is 

explained by the fact that 2000 years ago in China, 

clove oil was used for toothaches as an analgesic and 

anti-inflammatory agent. It also has antimicrobial and 

strong antibacterial properties. According to studies, 

this oil controls the development of many bacteria, 

incl. Staphyloccocus aureus (Staphylococcus aureus), 

which provokes the appearance and development of 

acne. The antioxidant properties of cloves should also 

be noted: 290,283 units on the ORAC scale, which is 30 

times more than that of blueberries [9,10].  

The technological scheme for the preparation of a 

medical and cosmetic lotion based on the dry 

polyextract “Phytoinflam” is shown in fig. 1.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

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American Journal Of Biomedical Science & Pharmaceutical Innovation    
(ISSN – 2771-2753) 
VOLUME 02 ISSUE 12     Pages: 01-07 

SJIF IMPACT FACTOR (2021: 5. 705) (2022: 5. 705)  
OCLC – 1121105677    METADATA IF – 5.896 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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TR 
1. 

Raw material 

preparation 

Auxiliary work 

Production personnel 

training 
VR 
1.3. 

VR 

1.2
. 

VR 
1.1. 

VR 
1.4. 

TP 

1.1
. 

Preparation of 

production facilities 

Hydrogen peroxide, 

“Extra-dez” 

disinfectant, 

chloramine 

Preparation of technological 

equipment 
VR 

1. 

Losses 

Preparation of closures 

Sifting ingredients 

glass bottles, cardboard 

cases, corrugated boxes, 

labels 

SE “Phytoinflam”, 

salicylic acid, sodium 

tetraborate 

SE “Phytoinflam”, 

salicylic acid, sodium 

tetraborate, glycerin, 

purified water, ethyl 

alcohol 

SE “Phytoinflam”, 

purified water 

Salicylic acid, ethyl 

alcohol 

TP 
1.2
. 

ТP 
2.1. 

ТP2

.2. 

Weighing Ingredients 

Dissolution of SE 

“Phytoinflam” and 

sodium tetraborate in 

purified water 

Dissolution of salicylic acid 

in ethyl alcohol 

Aqueous solution, 

alcohol solution, 

glycerin, clove oil 

ТP 

2.3. 
Mixing introductory and 

alcohol solutions, adding 

glycerin and clove oil 

ТP 
2.4
. 

Stir until smooth 

TR 

2. 
Lotion preparation 

Finished raw material 

Losses 

Losses 

Gel mass 

Packing, packaging and 

labeling lotionгеля 

UM

1.1. 

Packing, 

package 

Empty glass bottles UM 

1. 

Losses 

To the finished goods warehouse 

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American Journal Of Biomedical Science & Pharmaceutical Innovation    
(ISSN – 2771-2753) 
VOLUME 02 ISSUE 12     Pages: 01-07 

SJIF IMPACT FACTOR (2021: 5. 705) (2022: 5. 705)  
OCLC – 1121105677    METADATA IF – 5.896 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Fig.1. Technological scheme for the preparation of medical and cosmetic lotion 

 
CONCLUSION 

1. The composition was selected and the technology 

for obtaining a medical and cosmetic lotion based 

on the dry polyextract “Phytoinflam” was 

developed. The content of the preservative - 

salicylic acid and the introduction of clove oil as a 

fragrance have been scientifically substantiated. 

2. The resulting lotion in terms of quality met the 

requirements of GOST 31679-2012 “Liquid cosmetic 

products. General technical conditions”. 

REFERENCES 

1. Lezhneva L.P., Temirbulatova A.M., Chakhirova 

A.A.Technological research on the creation of a 

medical and cosmetic lotion with a dry extract of 

tannery //Bulletin of the Smolensk State Medical 

Academy.-2021.-V.20, №2.-P.164-170. 

2. Kunik O.M., Saribekova D.G., Gargaun R.V. 

Development of a warehouse of cosmetic lotion 

with toning powers based on green tea hydrolate 

//Visnik KhNTU.-2019.-№4 (71).-P.76-83. 

3. Bogdanova S.A., Galyametdinov Yu.G., Sysoeva 

M.A., Khabibrakhmanova V.R., Shigabieva Yu.A. 

Development and research of cosmetic 

compositions with chaga extracts // P.29-34. 

4. Kishchenko V.M., Vernikovsky V.V., Privalov I.M., 

Shevchenko A.M. Films in Russian medicine and 

cosmetology: history of development, 

classification, technology //Pharmacy and 

Pharmacology.-2020.-№ 8(2).-P.124-132. DOI: 

10.19163/2307-9266-2020-8-2-124-132 

5. Cosmetics: Cosmetic Preparations and Theoretical 

Foundations of Modern Practical Cosmetics / Per. 

With Him. E.I. Pollak.-Kyiv: Vishcha School,1990.-P. 

33. 

6. Gaipova N.N., Tulyaganov R.T., Karieva Y.S., 

Nuridullaeva K.N. The study of the specific activity 

and harmlessness of the dry extract “Phytoinflam” 

// Infection, immunity and pharmacology.-2020.-

№4.-P. 39-45. 

7. Gaipova N.N., Karieva Y.S., Nuridullaeva K.N. 

Research in the development of technology for a 

dry extract of a combined composition // Collection 

of materials of the VII International scientific and 

practical conference with international 

participation “Innovations and health of the 

nation”. - November 7-8, 2019 - St. Petersburg. -

P.212-214. 

8. GOST 31679-2012 “Liquid cosmetic products. 

General technical conditions”. 

9. Samusenko A. L. Study of the concentration 

dependence of the effects of synergism and 

antagonism in mixtures of essential oils of lemon, 

coriander and clove buds // Chemistry of plant raw 

materials.-2015. -№ 4.- P. 39-44. 

https://doi.org/10.14258/jcprm.201504865 

10. Karomatov I.D., Khalilova R.S. Promising medicinal 

plant - clove tree // Biology and Integrative 

Medicine.-2021.-№3.-P.115-152. 

 

 

 
 

 

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