American Journal of Research in Humanities and Social Sciences ISSN (E): 2832-8019 Volume 9, | Feb., 2023 P a g e | 105 www.americanjournal.org CULTURAL HERİTAGE OF THE TASHKENT NATİONAL DRESS Ashurova Shakhnoza Alvasovna, PhD, Graduate School of Business and Entrepreneurship, Tashkent Number.: +998 90 601 00 18 Mail: ashurovashani@mail.ru A B S T R A C T K E Y W O R D S This article is about the traditional national dress of the Tashkent region, such as the Ancient state of Ilak (modern Okhangaron district, the cities of Angren and Almalyk) of the peoples of the Syrdarya (Akkurgan district) and the territory of the Bostanlyk district. In this article we can also learn about the color palettes of fabrics that were used in the clothes of this people clothing, fabric, culture of the Uzbek people, color palette, silk and cotton fabrics, attributes of mosaic fabrics Archaeological excavations show that clothing appeared at the earliest stages of the development of human society (40-25 thousand years ago). Clothing, like any object of arts and crafts, combines beauty and expediency. Protecting the human body from cold and heat, precipitation and wind, clothing performs a practical function; decorating it - an aesthetic function. The national clothes of Central Asia are very popular not only among the indigenous, but also among the European population of Uzbekistan. The few publications on traditional national dress are of considerable interest, as they help to trace the development of one of the aspects of the material culture of the Uzbek people, its ethno-cultural ties with other peoples and ethnic groups of Central Asia. The peculiar traditional shape and cut of the main types of Uzbek clothing have been preserved for centuries and are currently used for everyday wear and as ritual clothing. At the same time, at the present stage, the traditional forms of national clothing are undergoing some changes, succumbing to the trend of fashion. The oddities of fashion and the creativity of fashion designers surprise us every season. Nevertheless, every unusual trend has fans. So, it was in antiquity and in the Middle Ages. And this is proved by stories about ambiguous, but very popular fashion trends in their time. Today we would like to pay attention to the national clothes of the Tashkent region The history of the culture of folk clothes in the Tashkent region is divided into 3 main regions: 1. The ancient state of Ilak (modern Okhangaron region, the cities of Angren and Almalyk); 2. Peoples of the Syrdarya (Akkurgan region); 3. Territory of Bostanlyk region. The color palette of the Akhangaran district is rich in shades and dresses of many options - white, yellow, fiery, reddish, red, purple and blue. Types of fabrics: velvet, silk, goods (satin), various silk and cotton fabrics. mailto:ashurovashani@mail.ru American Journal of Research in Humanities and Social Sciences Volume 9, Feb., 2023 P a g e | 106 www.americanjournal.org The main colors of the Akkurgan region are white and blue. For example, the clothes of the artists of the Turgay ensemble are chosen correctly, a white shirt, blue trousers and a vest or a short sleeveless jacket - nimcha. (Nimcha as a type of clothing is widely used to this day, it was sewn mainly from dark velvet or plush. A sleeveless jacket is a necessary accessory for the national costume) shepherd (robe - it is sewn from cotton fabric, worn by young and old). Tubeteika: Tashkent tyubiteika, and sometimes you can find tyubiteikas from the Zarafshan region. In the Territory of the Bostanlik region: the colors of the clothes consist of white, yellow, bluish and green. For the Kazakh peoples living in the area, this attire consists of a white shirt with a black or red vest. Elements of the national dress of the peoples of the Tashkent region: white dresses with harem pants, lace collars, and outerwear a little shorter than the dress. Due to the presence of many gold and silver deposits on the territory of the Tashkent region, yellow and yellowish color is a more common shade of clothing. The red-violet color characteristic of the territory of Akhangaran is compared with the flowers of tulips and violets, which are the first to appear from under the snow. The color of the fire symbolizes the fact that the tribes living in the pre-Islamic period in this area considered fire sacred. And also, silk fabrics were widely used, such as khon atlas, adras, which were brought from neighboring and from distant lands along the Great Silk Road1. In the mountainous regions of the Akhangaran valley and in the villages located on the plains, the Kuramin tribes lived, and they used the paraphernalia of the mosaic2, and this sewing art is inherited from generation to generation. We can see several types of these mosaic attributes on pillows and dresses. The main fabric in the art of these mosaic attributes natural. Fibers of natural origin, usually produced from plants, such as linen, cotton and hemp fabric, and along with these fabrics, materials of other natural origin, such as silk and wool, were also used. Clothing made from natural fibers is considered premium. Fibers are made up of pores filled with air. The population of this valley has always used very high quality fabrics, which can be assessed by their knowledge of culture even in this area. These people used the brightest color palettes, such as red, yellow, purple and pink. The attributes of the mosaic of the fabric from which the dresses were sewn were very clear, forming quadrangles or triangles. The quadrilateral is considered a symbol of the Earth, Sun, Sky and Water, and the triangle is a sacred symbol of the family and the pure spirit of the people. Young girls and middle-aged women mostly dress up in red dresses. And in the Tashkent region they put on locks3, and from the top they tie a iyagach4 to hide the chin. Many women wore large white shawls of various fabrics. Surprisingly, headscarves were worn 2,000 years ago. In the era of the Chinese emperor Qin Shi Huang Di, warriors tied them around their necks to protect themselves from the cold. In Tsarist Russia, a special material made of colored silk threads was called a scarf, by which it was possible to determine the rank of a person. During the time of Peter the Great, they began to wear the style of a scarf with tassels. At the end of the 18th century in France there were very fashionable starched muslin shawls that were wrapped around the neck. But the real peak of the popularity of products came at the end of the 19th 1 The Great Silk Road is a caravan road linking East Asia with the Mediterranean in ancient times and in the Middle Ages. It was primarily used to export silk from China, hence its name. 2 The Kurama tribes sewed fabrics from patches of different fabrics into mosaic paraphernalia 3 The national headdress 4 The same American Journal of Research in Humanities and Social Sciences Volume 9, Feb., 2023 P a g e | 107 www.americanjournal.org century, when fashion designers began to produce personalized silk scarves. Since then, interest in the accessory has only continued to grow. Today, there are many types of scarves and their names for women. They are worn in cold and warm seasons. And this shows us that the women of the Kurama people were familiar with the art of cult clothing from ancient times. Fashion accessories are countless fashionable little things, which, however, just like the silhouette and color, characterize the style of clothing of this era. Looking back at the history of fashion, we see that many items that are now taken for granted for us from a practical point of view were once obligatory and expensive accessories, without which it was impossible to appear. And women of the Tashkent region used such accessories. Most of these accessories were complemented by turquoise and silver. Men's shirts were mostly made of plain cotton fabric in the form of cuffs with a closed or open collar, and two ends were fastened with buttons. The men's outfit also consists of a national sleeveless jacket, which has a length to the hips and with an open collar, lined. In addition, men wore long robes, and this national robe is called "yaktak"5. Yaktak is part of a traditional costume and is outerwear in Asian countries, usually made from breathable natural materials that are pleasant to the skin. Dressing gowns for men were sewn mainly in plain colors, they were distinguished by a simple style. The fasteners of this type of clothing were ties or belts. Men constantly went in a dressing gown: at home, on the street, to various events. Festive items were embroidered with gold threads, decorated with braid, satin inserts. Sleeves and edges were processed with satin or brocade. Vertical slits on the sleeves did not interfere with movement. Uzbek robes were sewn together from pieces of fabric, without a pattern. For the warm season, a silk lining was made from the inside, and for the cold season - a thick one. They wore very comfortable shoes made of genuine leather. Almost no different from other places. The male skullcap is considered an attribute of the traditional form of the Uzbek people. In Uzbekistan, a skullcap is not just an element of clothing - it is part of the culture of the people. Today, the skullcap on the heads of citizens can only be seen on special occasions: family celebrations, funerals or holidays. But a few decades ago, the skullcap was the main type of headdress in Central Asia. Men and women, children and old people walked in it. And in each region, skullcaps have their own difference. Conventionally, duppi6 is divided into several groups: Tashkent, Bukhara, Samarkand, Fergana, Khorezm-Karakalpak and Kashkadarya-Surkhandarya, skullcaps are also festive, religious and everyday. Today, however, not everyone thinks about the messages hidden in duppy patterns, and yet every bend, pattern, line carries a deep meaning and mystery. Until now, the whole legends and traditions about skullcaps have been preserved among the people. The folk clothes reflect the traditions, culture and history of the Uzbek people. It was formed over the centuries, but remains popular today. The national outfit characterizes the historically established traditions and characteristics of the Uzbek people. The bright character of the people is reflected in the colorful and colorful Uzbek costumes of the country's inhabitants. 5 The word "robe" itself comes from the Arabic language, where it means honorable or "compensated" clothes. 6 Men's and women's headdress of the peoples of the Volga region, the Urals, Central Asia, the Caucasus, Crimea, Western Siberia. In Russian, the word “skull-teika”, which comes from the Turkic word “tubetey”, is usually understood as a small cap without a brim. American Journal of Research in Humanities and Social Sciences Volume 9, Feb., 2023 P a g e | 108 www.americanjournal.org Literature 1. Mukhammajonov. Kadimgi Tashkent. Tarihiy va archeologist lavkhalar - T.: Fan, 1988. 2. A. Khasanov. Olmalik whale. - T., 2021 3. A. Razzokov. Okhangaron gavharlari. - T., 2019 4. A. Khasanov. Kўҳna va navqiron Olmalik - T: A.Kodiriy nomidagi halk merosi, 2000 5. Z.Eshmirzaeva. Shosh va Ilok yollarida. – T., 2020. 6. http://www.ziyouz.com/images/books.