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The Anthropology of East Europe Review: Central Europe, Eastern 


Europe and Eurasia 

VOLUME 21. Number. I. Spring, 2003 

Editors 

Robert Rotenberg 


Barbara West 

Nallcy Ries 


El'll IIuseby-Darvas 

iUatti BUl1Zl 


CONTENTS 

SPECIAL ISSUE: FOOD AND FOODWA YS IN POSTSOCIALIST EURASIA 

MANAGING EDITOR'S NOTES: ............................................................................................................................ 4 


Robert Rotenberg DePaul UniYersity 

EDITORS' NOTES: FOOD AND FOODWA YS IN FOOD AND FOODWA YS IN POSTSOCIALIST EURASIA ........... 5 

Krista Harper. Smith ColIl:gc. and Barbara West. Universi!: of the Pacit1e 

PART ONE--COMMENSALITY, FEASTS, EATING, AND DRINKING 

"IAKE' TAKE' TAKE'"'IIOST-GUEST RELATIGNS AND ALL THAT rOOD: UZBEK IIOSPITALITY PAST AND 
PRr.SENT ............................................................................................................................................................................... 8 

Russell Zanca. Northeastern Illinois University 

A TRINITY OF SIBERIAN EASTER-SEASON MEALS ................................................................................................ 17 

Sharon Iludgins. Northeastern Illinois University 

CIIRISTMAS FOODWA YS AND RITUAL [N NORTHERN GERMANY: DISTINCTIONS EAST AND WEST OF TilE 
FORMER BORDER ............................................................................................................................................................. 27 

Susan Mazur-Stommen. California Polytechnic/Pomona 

PART TWO-FOOD, MEANING, AND IDENTITY 

CONSUMING THE WEST BUT BECOMING THIRD WORLD:FOOD IMPORTS AND THE EXPERIENCE OF 
RUSSIANNESS ........................................................................................................................................................ ............ 31 

knnifer Patico. Hayerford College 

TASTE AND TRANSFORMATION: ETHNOGRAPHIC ENCOUNTERS WITH FOOD IN THE CZECH REPUBLIC 37 

Ben Passmore. Southern Methodist Lniversity and Susan Racine Passmore. Independent Scholar 

CUISINE AND CULTURAL IDENTITY IN BALKANS ............................................................................................ 43 


Cristina Bradatan. Pennsylvania State University 

"'EATING OUR WAY BACK TO GOIT: Sl\CRAL NUTRITION AND ACCUL TCRATION IN THE KRISHNA 
CONSCIOUS IJFESTYLE """ ., .. ,.. ,.. , ...................... , .. ,... , ........ , .......................... , ............ , ... ,... , ........ , ............................... 49 

Judit Farkas. European Institute of Food Hi,tory (lEBA) 

Si\LAMANDER BRANDY: '"A PSYCHEDELIC DRINK" BETWEEN -"tEDIA MYTH AND PRACTICE OF HOME 
ALCOHOL DIST[LLA TION IN SLOVENIA .................. , ............................ , ..... , ............................................................... 63 

Miha Kozorog. Uniyersity of Ljubljana 



Amthropology or Eas! Europe Rcvie\\ 

PART THREE-GENDER AND FOOD 

fOOD. (,ENDER AND REPRESENTATION ......................................................................................................... 73 


Margarita Jankauskait. Vilnius UniH:rsi!) 


AMBIVALENT TRADIIIONS: TRANSfORMING GENDER SYMBOLS AND FOOD PRACTICES l"l TilE CZECH 

REPUBLIC ................... .............................. .. ....................................................................................................... 77 


Ilaidis Ilaukanes. L nhersity of Bergen 


PlVctZES: A DRINKING-RELATED MALE SOCIAL I"lSTITUTION IN RURAL HUNGARy ................................. 83 


Eva Iluseby-Darvas. University of Miehigan/Dearborn 

PART FOUR-FOOD, HEALTII, AND CULTURE 

THE EFFECTS OF PERCEIVI"lG "WEAK HEALTH" IN RUSSIA: THE CASE OF BREASTFEEDI"lG ...................... 91 


Cynthia Gabriel 


GREEN CARNIVORES. MAD COWS. AND GENE TECH: THE POll rlCS OF fOOD IN HUNGARIAN 

ENVIRONMENTALISM ................................................................................................................................................... 103 


Krista lJarper. Smith College 


PHD AND POHOD.I: THE SOCIAL CONDITIONS AND SYMBOLISM OF CZECH BEER-DRINKING ................. 109 


Timothy M. lIali. Uni\ersity ofCatiforniaiSan Diego 

PART FIVE-THE POLITIC~L ECONOMY OF FOOD 

BEER BOTTLES AN BAR SIGNS: BREWING IDENTITY IN POSTSOCIALIST POLAND ...................................... 139 


Andrew D. Asher. University of Illinois! Urbana-Champaign 


fROM COW TO CUSTOMER: INFORMAL MARKETING OF MILK IN ALBANIA ................................................. 147 


Beryl Nicholson. Newcastle upon Tyne 


DACHAS AND VEGETABLE GARDENS IN BELARUS ECONOMIC AND SUBJECTIVE STAKES OF AN 

"ORDINARY PASSIO"l .................................................................................................................................................... 159 


Ronan I krvoueL University of Bordeaux 


ESTONIAN FOOD PRODUCTION ................................................................................................................................... 169 


SWart Thorne. University ofSurre) 


FROM n4ZlTO HYPER MARKET: DISCOURSES ON TIME. MONEY, At\D FOOD IN HUNGARy ...................... 179 


Jeff Smith. Debrecen University 


TIlE POLITICAL AND SOCIAL LIFE OF FOOD IN SOCIALIST POLAND ................................................................ 189 


Kathy Burrell. De Montfort University 




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Please address all requests for membership in the East Europeal1 Anthropology Group 
($20/yr. for full-time faculty and professionals, $1O/yrfor students alld part-time faCility; 
European subscribers should writefor special rates.), institutional subscriptions to the 
Review ($20), or adllitiollal copies ofthis special Issue ($20) to the managing editor: 

The Web Page for the Anthropology ofEast Europe Review/East Europeall 
Anthropology Group contains links to most ofthe previously published articles. It calt be 
found at this URL: 

htt{J:/lcolldor.depalll.edll/~rr()tenbe/(/eer/ 

Robert Rotenberg, Anthropology Department, DePaul University. 990 W. Fullerton Ave, 
Chicago, Illinois, 60614. Phone: 773/325-7460; Fax 7731325-7461; 
Email: rrotenbe@wppost.depaul.edu. 

Barbara West, (EEAG)School ofIntemational Studies, University of the Pacific, Stockton, 
CA 95211. bwest@uop.edu 

Nancy Ries (SOYUZ), Anthropology, Colgate University, Hamilton, NY t 3346; Email: 
nries({l'1nail .coI eate.edu. 

Eva Huseby-Darvas (EEAG). Behavioral Science Dept.JJniversity of Michigan, Dearbom, 
MI 48128 Email: evdarvas@umich.edu. 

Matti Bunzl, (EEAG), Department of Anthropology, University of Illinois at Urbana­
ChampaignJ 09 Davenport Hall, 607 S. Matthews. Urbana, IL 61801; Email: 
bunzl@uiuc.edu. 

© DePaul University 2003 

ISSN: 1054-4720