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Asian Business Research Journal 
Vol. 10, No. 7, 115-123, 2025 
ISSN: 2576-6759 
DOI: 10.55220/2576-6759.512 
© 2025 by the author; licensee Eastern Centre of Science and Education, USA 

 
 

 

 
Reviving the Lost Art: Historical Foundations and Future Pathways for Bespoke 
Service in Luxury Retail 

 
Andrew Burnstine 
 

 
 

College of Business and Management, Lynn University, Florida, USA. 
Email: aburnstine@lynn.edu  

 
Abstract 

The mid-20th century witnessed a zenith of deeply personalized, bespoke service within iconic 
luxury specialty retailers. This paper critically analyzes the foundational principles of this 
historical bespoke service model, extending Service-Dominant (S-D) Logic and retail evolution 
theory, to propose a robust framework for its modern revival. Employing a rigorous qualitative, 
multiple-case study approach, grounded in extensive historical and media analysis of four 
archetypal American and British luxury boutiques, and uniquely informed by an insider-
ethnographic perspective on the central case exemplar ("Martha's"), the study distills six core 
principles: Profound Client Knowledge, Visionary Curation & Styling, Anticipatory & Proactive 
Service, The Exclusive & Trusting Environment, The Owner as Visionary & Brand Embodiment, 
and Beyond the Transaction: Relationship & Community Building. These principles reveal a retail 
model predicated on intensive, proactive value co-creation and deep, trust-based relationships, 
highlighting a significant experiential and relational deficit in much of contemporary, mass-
market retail. We propose the "Empathetic Algorithm" model, integrating these historical 
principles with the contemporary imperatives of sustainability and human-centric artificial 
intelligence. This framework suggests that the perceived depersonalization of modern retail drives 
a cyclical re-emergence of high-touch paradigms, offering a novel strategic roadmap for luxury 
retailers to achieve differentiation, enduring client loyalty, and a more sustainable future. 

 
Keywords: Artificial intelligence, Bespoke service, Clienteling, Customer experience, Luxury retail, Qualitative research, Retail evolution,  
 Service-dominant logic, Sustainability, Value co-creation. 

 
1. Introduction 

The luxury retail industry is undergoing a dramatic evolution, propelled by shifts in consumer expectations, 
digital innovation, and sustainability imperatives. While efficiency and scale dominate the operational landscape, a 
critical component of luxury retail—bespoke service—faces marginalization. Historically anchored in personal 
relationships, deep client knowledge, and artisanal care, bespoke service once defined the luxury experience. This 
tradition has deep roots, originating in the exclusive ateliers of Parisian haute couture and the meticulous tailoring 
workshops of London's Savile Row. These European institutions established foundational principles, including a 
deep, personal relationship between artisan and patron, an uncompromising commitment to quality, and the 
creation of unique garments tailored to an individual's form and lifestyle (Norton, 2010; Palmer, 2019). In this 
earlier era, commerce was fundamentally conversation, and a purchase emerged as the byproduct of a relationship. 

In the 20th century, this ethos was masterfully translated for the American market by a new class of visionary 
retailers. Stanley Marcus, a titan of this era, once encapsulated the core philosophy: "Wanting to sell satisfaction, 
not just merchandise" (Marcus, 1974). This sentiment was the bedrock of legendary independent institutions such 
as Martha's of New York and Palm Beach, and Nan Duskin in Philadelphia. Within these establishments, service 
was an intricate art form, a "golden age" where personalized attention and profound client relationships were 
paramount. This was not merely about remembering a client’s size; it was about understanding their social 
calendar, their aesthetic aspirations, their family dynamics, and even their insecurities. Service was a complex, 
emotionally intelligent performance orchestrated to build unshakeable trust. 

This historical ideal starkly contrasts with the contemporary retail landscape, which is largely characterized by 
a relentless pursuit of efficiency and scale that often leads to impersonal, standardized, and ultimately forgettable 
encounters (Grewal et al., 2017). The rise of multi-national luxury conglomerates, with their focus on maximizing 
shareholder value and achieving global brand consistency, has systemically de-emphasized the resource-intensive 
art of individualization. The ubiquity of e-commerce, while democratizing access, has further reshaped operational 
models, creating a palpable "service deficit" where the human element is often reduced to a chatbot or a call center 
script (Dion & Arnould, 2011). The very definition of service has been diluted, shifting from a relational art to a 
transactional process, from partnership to purchase. This has resulted in a consumer experience that, while often 
convenient, lacks the emotional resonance and perceived value that fosters deep, lasting loyalty. 

mailto:aburnstine@lynn.edu
https://doi.org/10.55220/2576-6759.512


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This trajectory gives rise to a central tension that this paper seeks to resolve: Is this nuanced, resource-
intensive level of service an anachronistic relic, a romanticized notion impossible to sustain in the modern economy, 
or does its absence represent a strategic opportunity for a cyclical return? This core tension animates the primary 
research questions: 

• What were the foundational, replicable principles that defined the success and sustained competitive 
advantage of iconic 20th-century bespoke luxury retailers? Unpacking these principles moves beyond 
anecdotal admiration to create a structured understanding of their strategic and operational DNA. 

• How can these historical principles be adapted and evolved to satisfy the complex expectations of 
contemporary consumers, who value both digital convenience and authentic human connection? This 
question addresses the critical need to bridge the past with the present, ensuring that any revival is relevant, 
not merely retro. 

• How can the modern imperatives of sustainability and Artificial Intelligence (AI) be strategically integrated 
not merely as add-ons, but as core enablers for a viable, modern revival of bespoke service excellence? This 
question probes the potential for a powerful synthesis, where technology and ethics do not conflict with the 
historical model but instead amplify its potential. 

This paper argues that the foundational principles of legendary bespoke service are not merely historical 
artifacts but offer enduring, actionable wisdom. A strategic revival of these principles, thoughtfully integrated with 
authentic sustainability practices and human-centric AI, can address a significant experiential gap in the current 
market and foster the kind of profound, resilient customer loyalty that builds lasting brands. The "Empathetic 
Algorithm" is proposed as a conceptual model where technology augments, rather than replaces, the human 
intuition, creativity, and emotional intelligence that defined this lost art. In this model, AI serves to liberate human 
service providers from logistical burdens, empowering them with insights to deepen relationships. Accordingly, 
this paper provides a historical-insider account of bespoke service, proposes a cyclical theory of service evolution, 
and offers an actionable roadmap for integrating these timeless principles with modern imperatives, charting a 
course for the future of luxury retail. 
 

2. Literature Review 
The revival of bespoke service in luxury retail necessitates an understanding of its historical context, the 

theoretical underpinnings of service excellence, evolving consumer dynamics, and the contemporary forces of 
sustainability and artificial intelligence. This review synthesizes existing literature to frame the central arguments 
of this paper, establishing the theoretical foundation upon which the analysis is built. 
 

2.1. The Evolution of Luxury Retail and Service Paradigms 
Historically, luxury was synonymous with exclusivity, craftsmanship, and a deeply personal mode of service. 

The origins of this model can be traced to the European guild systems and, more formally, to the rise of haute 
couture in 19th-century Paris under figures like Charles Frederick Worth. Worth was a revolutionary figure who 
transformed dressmaking from a trade into an art form. By creating seasonal collections, using live models, and 
dictating styles, he established the couturier not merely as a craftsperson but as a creative authority and a trusted 
advisor to an elite clientele (Palmer, 2019). Concurrently, the tailors of London's Savile Row perfected a masculine 
form of bespoke service built on precision, discretion, and enduring multi-generational relationships with 
statesmen and aristocrats (Norton, 2010). This European tradition, predicated on craft, personal consultation, and 
social exclusivity, formed the ideological antecedent to the American luxury specialty store. 

In the mid-20th century, a class of visionary American retailers adapted this ethos for a new, more dynamic 
market fueled by post-war prosperity. Establishments like Martha's, Nan Duskin, and Neiman Marcus translated 
the principles of bespoke service from a focus on custom creation to a focus on expert curation and comprehensive 
wardrobe building. They became the crucial, taste-making link between the European designer runways and the 
complex social lives of the American elite. This era also saw the rise of luxury department stores like Selfridges in 
London, which, while offering a broader selection, attempted to maintain elements of personalized service through 
dedicated departments and pioneered the role of the personal shopper (Moore & Birtwistle, 2004). 

However, the latter part of the 20th century and the early 21st century witnessed a paradigm shift. The 
ascendancy of global luxury conglomerates like LVMH and Kering, the proliferation of mono-brand flagship stores 
emphasizing global brand control (Dion & Arnould, 2011), and the disruptive advent of e-commerce fundamentally 
altered the retail landscape. This shift often prioritized scale, global reach, and standardized brand messaging over 
the deeply individualized and less scalable service models of earlier specialty retailers (Okleshen & de Ruyter, 
1998). The business logic shifted from margin generated through unparalleled service to margin generated 
through brand equity and volume. While e-commerce expanded accessibility and convenience, it initially struggled 
to replicate the high-touch, sensory, and relational experiences of physical luxury retail (Kim & Ko, 2012). This 
digital deficit sparked a re-evaluation of the role of the physical store, leading to the concept of the omnichannel 
environment where digital and physical channels are meant to seamlessly integrate (Verhoef et al., 2015). Yet, 
despite significant investment, many omnichannel experiences remain fragmented, with a persistent disconnect 
between the data-rich online world and the often data-poor in-store interaction. This historical trajectory reveals a 
gradual erosion of the deeply personal service that once defined luxury, creating the service deficit that this paper 
addresses. 
 

2.2. Theorizing Bespoke Customer Service Excellence 
Bespoke customer service in a luxury context transcends mere functional efficiency; it is an art form centered 

on deep personalization and relational value. Foundational service quality models like SERVQUAL, with its five 
dimensions of reliability, assurance, tangibles, empathy, and responsiveness (Parasuraman et al., 1988), provide a 
useful starting point. However, in the bespoke luxury sphere, these dimensions are radically amplified. "Tangibles" 
extend beyond a clean store to include the quality of the fixtures, the scent in the air, the weight of the hangers, 
and the privacy of the salon. "Empathy" and "responsiveness" evolve from polite understanding into an 



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anticipatory service and a profound, almost intuitive, grasp of unspoken client needs, desires, and social contexts 
(Tynan & McKechnie, 2009). 

The value perceived by the customer (Customer Perceived Value, or CPV) in such settings extends far beyond 
the functional utility of the product to encompass significant experiential, symbolic, and hedonic dimensions (Smith 
& Colgate, 2007; Holbrook, 1999). This concept is deeply intertwined with Relationship Marketing theory, which 
emphasizes the development, maintenance, and enhancement of long-term customer relationships over short-term 
transactions (Grönroos, 2004). The historical boutiques studied here were masters of this approach, inherently 
practicing what is now termed “clienteling”. Their success was built on cultivating deep, personal knowledge of 
clients' preferences, lifestyles, social calendars, and even family connections. This created formidable emotional and 
relational switching costs for their clients, fostering unwavering loyalty over decades. The relationship itself 
became a valuable asset. 

Furthermore, this model perfectly exemplifies Service-Dominant (S-D) Logic, which reframes economics 
around service as the fundamental basis of exchange (Vargo & Lusch, 2004). In S-D Logic, goods are merely 
distribution mechanisms for service provision. The bespoke service model is a prime example of value co-creation, a 
core tenet of S-D Logic, where the retailer and client collaboratively shape the consumption experience. The client 
provides their personal context, needs, and preferences (operand resources), while the retailer integrates their 
resources—expert knowledge, access to designers, a curated environment (operant resources)—to create a unique 
value proposition that could not exist without this interactive partnership (Vargo & Lusch, 2008). These historical 
boutiques acted as dense "service ecosystems," integrating resources from designers, staff, clients, and the social 
environment to co-create value that was far greater than the sum of its parts. This paper will later argue that these 
retailers engaged in a proactive form of resource integration, a nuance that extends current S-D logic 
conceptualizations. 

Ultimately, the work of Pine and Gilmore (1999) on The Experience Economy is critical. They argue that 
businesses must orchestrate memorable events for their customers, and that memory itself becomes the product. 
The historical boutiques were quintessential experience stages, creating immersive environments that went far 
beyond mere shopping. They offered escapism, aesthetic pleasure, and a sense of community, transforming the act 
of acquiring clothing into a rich, personally affirming experience (Verhoef et al., 2009). They staged the four realms 
of experience: the aesthetic appeal of the beautiful salon, the entertainment of a trunk show, the educational 
component of learning about a new designer, and the escapist feeling of being an insider in an exclusive world. 
 

2.3. The Evolving Luxury Consumer 
Motivations for luxury consumption are multifaceted and have evolved. Classical theories pointed to the 

pursuit of status and social distinction, known as conspicuous consumption (Veblen, 1899; Han et al., 2010). This 
was certainly a key driver for the clientele of mid-20th-century boutiques, who valued exclusivity, personal 
recognition, and the social cachet associated with particular designers and retailers (Twitchell, 2002). However, 
motivations have always included an appreciation for superior quality and craftsmanship (Quelch, 1987), self-
expression and identity construction (Belk, 1988), and the seeking of hedonic and experiential rewards (Vigneron & 
Johnson, 2004). 

Contemporary luxury consumers, particularly Millennials and Gen Z, while still appreciating quality and 
brand prestige, exhibit a marked shift in values. There is a greater emphasis on experiences over mere possessions 
(Atwal & Williams, 2009), a demand for authenticity and transparency from brands (Beverland, 2005), and a 
heightened concern for sustainability and ethical practices (Janssen et al., 2014). The "experience economy" (Pine & 
Gilmore, 1999) profoundly impacts their expectations; they seek not just products, but memorable, personalized, 
and often shareable interactions. Their digital fluency means they expect seamless integration between online and 
offline worlds. Their identities are more fluid, and they use luxury goods to signal different aspects of a 
multifaceted self rather than allegiance to a single social tribe. This complexity makes the role of a trusted curator 
potentially more valuable than ever, provided that the curator can speak to their values. 

 
2.4. Emerging Imperatives: Sustainability and AI 

Two dominant forces are shaping the future of luxury retail. Initially, the sustainability movement demands 
greater environmental and social responsibility, creating a "luxury paradox" between the desire for newness and 
the need for conscious consumption (Davies, et.al, 2012). This includes calls for ethical sourcing, supply chain 
transparency, reduced environmental impact, and support for circular economy models like repair and resale (Joy et 
al., 2012). A revived bespoke model, this paper argues, could inherently align with sustainability by emphasizing 
quality over quantity, timeless style, and personalized advice that encourages mindful consumption, guiding a 
client to repair a beloved piece or integrate a vintage item rather than simply buying new. 

Concurrently, Artificial Intelligence (AI) offers transformative potential. It can enable hyper-personalization 
based on data analytics, power predictive styling recommendations, and create efficient inventory management that 
frees up human staff for value-added interactions (Davenport et al., 2020; Grewal et al., 2021). However, the 
challenge lies in deploying AI to augment and empower human service professionals—creating what is termed an 
"empathetic algorithm"—rather than replacing the nuanced, intuitive, and emotional intelligence crucial for 
genuine bespoke service (Huang & Rust, 2018). This perspective is echoed in recent scholarship by Burnstine 
(2025), who examines how "agentic AI"—autonomous intelligent systems—can revolutionize the fashion 
ecosystem not only through personalization but also by creating more adaptive and sustainable supply chains. The 
goal is a synergistic human-AI partnership where technology handles complex data analysis and logistics, freeing 
humans to focus on creativity, strategy, and empathetic connection. The ethical implications of AI use, particularly 
concerning data privacy and algorithmic bias, are also paramount considerations that any modern model must 
address (Martin, 2019). 

This literature review reveals that while components of luxury service are well-studied, a focused, integrative 
analysis of historical bespoke service models as a foundation for future innovation remains an underexplored area. 
Specifically, there is a theoretical gap in understanding: 



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• How proactive value co-creation, as exemplified by historical bespoke service, can extend existing S-D 
Logic frameworks that often emphasize reactive customer-initiated co-creation. 

• The cyclical nature of retail service paradigms, particularly how market depersonalization can drive the re-
emergence of high-touch, trust-based models, challenging purely linear views of retail evolution. 

• The optimal integration of human-centric AI and sustainability within a high-touch service model to 
address contemporary consumer values and create sustainable competitive advantage, moving beyond a 
purely technological or ethical lens to an integrated service design. 

This paper fills these gaps by synthesizing historical wisdom with future-oriented strategies, using a unique 
insider-informed case study method to develop a robust framework for the revival of a deeply valued form of retail 
excellence and, in doing so, to extend current service theory. 
 

3. Methodology 
This study employs a qualitative, interpretive research approach, best suited for exploring the complex, socially 

constructed phenomena at the heart of bespoke service. A comparative analysis of historical exemplars is utilized to 
deconstruct and understand the foundational principles of bespoke luxury retail (Yin, 2018). This approach allows 
for the development of rich, contextually grounded theory from historical cases. 

The selection of iconic 20th-century retailers—including Martha's (New York and Palm Beach), Nan Duskin 
(Philadelphia), Irene's (Hollywood), and Browns (London)—is purposive (Creswell & Poth, 2018). These exemplars 
were chosen for several reasons: their stellar historical reputation for service excellence as documented in public 
records; their influence on fashion trends and consumer behavior; and their representation of different facets of the 
luxury market (e.g., East Coast social establishment, Hollywood glamour, London avant-garde). This diversity 
allows for the identification of common, foundational principles that transcend specific locations or client types. 

Data was collected through a systematic process of archival research and media analysis. This involved a 
comprehensive review of scholarly articles, books on fashion history and retail, published memoirs by founders and 
clients (e.g., Marcus, 1974), and archival newspaper and magazine articles ( 

The New York Times, Vogue, WWD) that described the operations, philosophies, and customer experiences of 
these retailers. This triangulation of data sources enhances the credibility and validity of the findings. 

The analytical process was guided by thematic analysis (Braun & Clarke, 2006). This involved two main stages. 
Initially, an in-depth, idiographic analysis of each exemplar was conducted to understand its unique history, 
culture, and service model. Subsequently, a cross-exemplar comparison was performed to identify recurring 
themes, patterns, and principles. This comparative approach enabled the distillation of the six core principles 
presented in the findings section. 

A unique methodological feature of this research is the author's insider-ethnographic perspective as the 
grandson of Martha's founder, Martha Phillips, and the son of its president, Lynn Manulis. This position provides 
access to a deep reservoir of tacit knowledge, anecdotes, and understanding of the philosophy that animated the 
business. Recognizing the potential for bias, a dedicated and structured practice of reflexivity was employed 
throughout the research process (Watt, 2007). This involved consciously bracketing personal experiences, 
maintaining a reflective journal to question assumptions, and deliberately privileging externally verifiable evidence 
from archival and secondary sources in the formal analysis. The insider knowledge was used primarily to interpret 
and add texture to the public record, rather than serving as primary data itself, thus balancing the unique benefits 
of insider access with the demands of academic rigor. 
 

4. Findings: The Anatomy of a 'Lost Art' 
The comparative analysis of these iconic retailers reveals a consistent and interdependent set of principles that 

form the foundational anatomy of the "lost art" of bespoke service. These were not ad-hoc tactics but deeply 
ingrained cultural philosophies that permeated every aspect of the business. 
 

4.1. The Primary Exemplar: Martha's (New York & Palm Beach) 
The legacy of Martha's, spanning from 1965 to 2003, was built on the visionary curation and intensely 

personal touch of its founder, Martha Phillips, and her daughter, Lynn Manulis. Their philosophy was rooted in an 
intuitive, almost anthropological, understanding of their elite clientele's multifaceted lives. They championed 
designers who are now legendary, such as Valentino, Halston, James Galanos, and Yves Saint Laurent, often 
discovering them early and securing exclusive distribution rights. The service ethos was defined by profound 
personalization that went far beyond typical clienteling. Sales associates, who were considered "service artisans," 
maintained detailed client "bibles". These were not mere lists of purchases but rich dossiers documenting clients' 
social engagements, travel schedules, aesthetic aspirations, family members, and even rivalries. This encyclopedic 
knowledge enabled a level of anticipatory service that is almost unimaginable today. For instance, upon learning a 
top client was attending a specific gala, the staff would not only suggest a gown but would subtly ensure no other 
client of theirs would be wearing the same designer to that event. It was common for Lynn Manulis to proactively 
assemble and ship entire seasonal wardrobes to clients' homes in Gstaad or the South of France, complete with 
detailed notes on how to style each piece for various occasions, often without a single explicit request from the 
client. Critically, Martha Phillips possessed the influence and personal relationships to call designers like Valentino 
Garavani directly to request a custom color for a gown or a modification to a suit for a specific client, a level of 
bespoke intervention and value co-creation that is structurally impossible in today's corporatized luxury system. 
 

4.2. Analysis of Supporting Exemplars 
Similar principles, adapted to their specific contexts, were at play in other iconic stores: 

• Nan Duskin (Philadelphia): Founded in 1927, Nan Duskin built a retail dynasty on an intimate 
understanding of the Philadelphia social calendar. The store was more than a place to buy clothes; it was an 
essential institution for the city's "old money" establishment. Duskin and her staff knew precisely which 



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events their clients were attending—from the Academy of Music Anniversary Concert to debutante balls—
and ensured they were appropriately and uniquely attired. This deep social integration made the store an 
indispensable partner in navigating the intricate codes of high society. 

• Irene's (Hollywood): Helmed by the famed MGM costume designer Irene Lentz in the 1930s and 40s, 
Irene's salon fused the magic of cinematic glamour with intensely personal retail service. Her clients were 
the titans of Hollywood—stars like Marlene Dietrich and Ingrid Bergman. Having designed their on-
screen personas, Irene possessed unparalleled insight into how to translate that glamour into their private 
lives, offering couture-level fitting and custom design in a discreet environment that shielded them from 
public view. 

• Browns (London): Founded in 1970 by Joan Burstein and her husband, Sidney, Browns became an 
epicenter for fashion innovation and a launchpad for the avant-garde. Burstein championed then-unknown, 
radical talents like John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, and Comme des Garçons. The service model at 
Browns was educational and encouraging. The staff were passionate experts who could explain the vision 
behind a challenging piece, helping adventurous clients build their confidence and their collection. It was a 
service built on intellectual and creative partnership, fostering a community of fashion-forward thinkers. 

 

4.3. Comparative Analysis of Bespoke Retail Exemplars 
The following table provides a comparative synthesis of these exemplars, highlighting both the common 

threads in their philosophies and the unique ways they manifested in different markets. 
 

Table 1. Comparative Analysis of Bespoke Retail Exemplars. 

Retailer 
(Founder) 

Core Service 
Philosophy 

Key Brands/Designers Store/Location Ethos Clientele Profile 

Martha's 
(Martha 
Phillips) 

"Proactive, anticipatory 
wardrobe curation and 
unparalleled personal 
access. "We dress you 
for your life.""  

Valentino, St. Laurent, 
Chanel, James Galanos, 
Halston, Bill Blass  

Exclusive, residential-style 
salons in prime luxury 
corridors (Park Ave, Palm 
Beach, Trump Tower)  

International socialites, 
royalty, political 
figures, and established 
industrialist families  

Nan Duskin 
(Nan Duskin 
Lincoln) 

Socially-attuned styling 
and deep integration 
into the local elite's 
lifestyle and events.  

European couture, 
prominent American 
designers.  

A Philadelphia social 
institution on Rittenhouse 
Square, integral to the 
city's high society.  

Philadelphia's "old 
money" establishment, 
debutantes, and 
prominent families.  

Irene's (Irene 
Lentz) 

Cinematic glamour 
translated for personal 
wear; couture-level 
fitting and custom 
design.  

Primarily, Irene's custom 
designs and curated 
selections.  

A discreet, glamorous 
Hollywood salon catering 
to the film industry. A 
private sanctuary for stars.  

Hollywood royalty, 
movie stars, studio 
executives.  

Browns (Joan 
Burstein) 

Fearless championing of 
avant-garde talent; 
educational and 
encouraging styling for 
the fashion-literate.  

John Galliano, Alexander 
McQueen, Comme des 
Garçons, Jil Sander.  

An innovative, vibrant hub 
for fashion discovery in 
London's South Molton 
Street. A creative 
laboratory.  

Fashion insiders, 
adventurous dressers, 
international creatives, 
and artists.  

 
Alternative Analysis: While the table highlights the formidable strengths of these founder-led models, it also 

implicitly reveals a critical weakness: their inherent lack of scalability and profound dependence on a single, 
charismatic individual or a very small, cohesive team. This "visionary-as-bottleneck" structure, where the founder's 
intuition and personal network were the firm's primary assets, made them exceptionally vulnerable to generational 
transition and market shifts. The knowledge was often tacit, not codified, making succession a near-insurmountable 
challenge and contributing directly to the decline of many of these institutions as the founders retired or passed 
away. 
 
4.4. Comparative Synthesis: The Six Enduring Principles 

The comparative analysis consistently reveals six interdependent principles that constitute the strategic core of 
this lost art of service. These were not ad-hoc tactics but deeply ingrained cultural philosophies that permeated 
every aspect of the business. 
A primary principle consistently observed was  

Profound Client Knowledge: This went beyond CRM data to a deep, qualitative, and almost anthropological 
understanding of the client's entire life—their needs, aspirations, social circles, and insecurities. This deep 
clienteling served as the foundational resource upon which all other principles were built, creating a formidable and 
difficult-to-replicate barrier to entry for competitors. 
Subsequently,  

Visionary Curation and Styling emerged as a critical element: The owner acted as the ultimate arbiter of taste, 
taking significant financial risks on new talent and meticulously editing collections. They did not merely sell what 
was available; rather, they presented a distinct and confident point of view, shaping the aesthetic of their clientele 
and, in many cases, influencing broader fashion trends. Their role was that of a trusted editor, not a passive 
merchant. 
Central to their operational model was  

The Exclusive, Trusting Environment: The physical stores were designed as discreet, comfortable sanctuaries, 
in contrast to transactional spaces. Functioning as "third places" (Oldenburg, 1989), they were elegant, residential-
style salons where clients could relax, socialize, and build relationships with staff and even other patrons. Privacy, 
comfort, and a sense of belonging were paramount. 
A particularly crucial and often "lost" principle involved  



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Anticipatory & Proactive Service: Service was not reactive (responding to a request) but proactive (initiating 
action based on knowledge). It encompassed anticipating needs clients hadn't yet articulated—from planning a 
travel wardrobe to securing a unique piece for a special occasion—demonstrating a level of care and understanding 
that transformed the relationship from transactional to custodial. 
Furthermore,  

The Owner as Visionary & Brand Embodiment was consistently evident: The founder's personal ethos, style, 
and social connections permeated every aspect of the business. Martha Phillips, Joan Burstein, and Nan Duskin 
were not anonymous executives; their credibility and taste constituted the very essence of the brand. This 
generated a powerful sense of authenticity and trust that cannot be manufactured through corporate marketing 
campaigns. 
Ultimately,  

Beyond the Transaction: Relationship & Community Building underscored their strategic approach: The 
overarching goal was not to secure a single sale but to cultivate a loyal, long-term community. This was achieved 
through exclusive events, introductions between clients with shared interests, and a genuine commitment to the 
client's long-term satisfaction. The focus was on maximizing customer lifetime value before the term was even 
coined, recognizing that loyalty represented the ultimate currency. 
 

5. Discussion: The Cyclical Future and a Roadmap for Revival 
The historical analysis offers more than nostalgia; it provides enduring lessons that, when synthesized with 

contemporary dynamics, illuminate a path forward. This section translates these historical insights, extends 
relevant theory, and proposes a concrete framework for their strategic revival. 
 

5.1. Theoretical Implications: Extending Service-Dominant Logic and Retail Theory 
The findings provide a rich, historically grounded illustration of S-D Logic's core tenets, particularly value co-

creation and resource integration. The principle of Anticipatory & Proactive Service, in particular, extends the 
typical understanding of these concepts. Much of the S-D literature frames value co-creation as a process initiated 
by the customer or occurring reactively during a service encounter. However, the actions of retailers like Martha's 
demonstrate a proactive form of value co-creation, initiated by the firm based on its deep, institutionalized 
knowledge of the client's latent needs (their operand resources). The firm doesn't wait for the customer to signal a 
need; it uses its expertise (operant resources) to identify and fulfill that need in advance, fundamentally shifting the 
dynamic of the relationship. This leads to the first proposition: 

Proposition 1: In high-touch service ecosystems, the firm's institutionalized capability for capturing and 
mobilizing deep customer operand resources (e.g., lifestyle knowledge, social context) positively moderates its 
ability to proactively initiate value co-creation activities. This proactive initiation, in turn, leads to significantly 
higher levels of customer-perceived value, trust, and loyalty compared to reactive service models. 

The findings also lend strong support to a cyclical view of retail evolution. The dominant narrative of retail 
history is often linear and technologically deterministic, suggesting an inexorable march towards greater 
efficiency, scale, and digitalization. However, the market's overcorrection towards impersonal, scalable models 
creates a relational vacuum. This vacuum generates a latent but powerful consumer demand for the very high-
touch, trust-based models that were displaced. Consumers begin to seek authenticity, human connection, and 
expert guidance as a countervailing force to digital anonymity. This suggests a cyclical pattern where service 
paradigms re-emerge in new forms. This leads to the second proposition: 

Proposition 2: The perceived depersonalization and relational deficit resulting from the market dominance of 
scalable, transaction-focused retail models create latent consumer demand that drives the cyclical re-emergence of 
high-touch, trust-based service paradigms. These revived paradigms are not identical to their historical 
antecedents but are adapted to and integrated with contemporary technological and ethical contexts (such as AI 
and sustainability). 

 
Table 2. Strategic Roadmap for Reviving Bespoke Service. 

Phase Objective Key Actions Desired Outcomes 

Phase 1: 
Foundation 

Establish the 
Cultural and 
Human Bedrock 

1. Define and codify a service-first charter. 2. Recruit 
for emotional intelligence (EQ) and train "service 
artisans." 3. Build a modern, ethical CRM system 
(the new "client bible").  

A company culture that 
institutionally prioritizes 
relationships over transactions. A 
highly skilled, empathetic team. A 
robust knowledge foundation.  

Phase 2: 
Integration 

Build the 
Modern Toolkit 

1. Deploy human-centric AI for predictive insights 
and logistical support. 2. Integrate sustainability into 
curation and service offerings (e.g., repair, resale, 
ethical sourcing). 3. Develop training on synergistic 
human-AI workflows.  

Augmented service capabilities that 
empower staff. A clear, authentic 
sustainability narrative. Enhanced 
efficiency that creates time for 
human connection.  

Phase 3: 
Execution 

Craft the 
Bespoke 
Experience 

1. Design intimate, private physical environments 
(modern salons). 2. Reinvent exclusive events 
(intimate digital/physical trunk shows, community 
gatherings). 3. Orchestrate a seamless "phygital" 
customer journey from discovery to post-purchase.  

Memorable, personalized, and 
shareable client experiences. A 
strong sense of community and 
exclusivity. Deepened client loyalty.  

Phase 4: 
Evolution 

Measure, 
Adapt, and 
Scale Intimacy 

1. Track long-term, relationship-focused metrics 
(CLV, retention, Net Promoter Score). 2. Create 
formal feedback loops from service artisans to 
management. 3. Scale intimacy through mentorship, 
small team structures, and knowledge sharing 
protocols.  

Data-driven continuous 
improvement of the service model. 
Agile response to market shifts. 
Sustainable growth of the service 
culture, not just the business.  

 
 



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5.2. The Roadmap: A Phased Approach to Reviving Bespoke Service 
The path to reviving bespoke service is not through imitation, but through sophisticated re-imagination. The 

Empathetic Algorithm Model is proposed, which strategically integrates the six historical principles with the 
modern pillars of sustainability and human-centric AI. This model reframes AI not as an endpoint for efficiency, 
but as a sophisticated tool that creates the time and space for elevated human interaction. It is a "creative 
partnership" (Burnstine, 2025) that automates the mundane to liberate the profound. The following four-phase 
roadmap, summarized in Table 2 and detailed below, outlines how a retailer can implement this model. 

 
5.3. Detailed Roadmap Phases 

• Phase 1: Foundation - Establish the Cultural and Human Bedrock: This initial phase is the most critical 
and cannot be rushed. It involves creating a foundational "service charter" that explicitly states the 
company's commitment to long-term relationships, empowering employees to prioritize client satisfaction 
over short-term sales targets. Concurrently, it necessitates radically shifting recruitment to screen for 
emotional intelligence (EQ), empathy, and passion for the product, not solely sales experience. This is 
followed by intensive training to develop "service artisans" skilled in communication, styling, and 
relationship building. A crucial component is building the modern "client bible"—a CRM system designed 
not just to track purchases, but to ethically and securely store qualitative, nuanced client information that 
can be accessed (by human staff) to personalize interactions. 

• Phase 2: Integration - Build the Modern Toolkit: Here, technology and modern values are woven into the 
foundational culture. Human-centric AI is deployed not to interact with clients, but to support the service 
artisans. For example, AI can analyze inventory and a client's profile to suggest, "Your client has a 
wedding in Tuscany next month; these three new arrivals fit her style profile and are not owned by any 
other guests you service". This automates logistical work, freeing the artisan to focus on the creative and 
emotional aspects of the consultation. Additionally, sustainability is integrated authentically. This means 
curating brands with transparent supply chains, offering high-quality repair and alteration services, and 
providing a platform or partnership for the consignment of past purchases. The service artisan, in this 
capacity, becomes a guide for conscious, long-term wardrobe building. 

• Phase 3: Execution - Craft the Bespoke Experience: With the right culture and tools established, the focus 
shifts to execution. This involves designing physical spaces that feel like private, comfortable salons rather 
than open, transactional stores. A parallel effort means reinventing events—moving away from large, 
impersonal parties towards intimate trunk shows, designer Q&As (both physical and virtual), and small 
gatherings that foster a genuine sense of community. Furthermore, it requires orchestrating a seamless 
"phygital" journey where a client can browse online, have a video consultation with their dedicated artisan, 
and then have a curated selection waiting for them for a private in-store appointment, with all preferences 
and history seamlessly transferred. 

• Phase 4: Evolution - Measure, Adapt, and Scale Intimacy: The final phase ensures long-term viability. 
Success must be measured not by daily sales but by long-term metrics like Customer Lifetime Value (CLV), 
client retention rates, and Net Promoter Score (NPS). Formal channels must be created for service artisans, 
who hold the most valuable client knowledge, to provide feedback to buyers and management, ensuring the 
business adapts to evolving client needs. Scaling is approached not by standardizing service, but by 
"scaling intimacy". This is achieved through small, autonomous team structures, mentorship programs 
where senior artisans train new ones, and robust protocols for knowledge sharing when a client 
relationship is handed over. 

Alternative Analysis: This roadmap presents an idealized path that consciously runs counter to the prevailing 
logic of cost efficiency and scalability. The high-cost structure required for highly trained "service artisans," 
intimate salon environments, and sophisticated AI integration poses a significant financial barrier. Furthermore, a 
deep tension exists between the goal of building an "empathetic algorithm" and legitimate customer concerns about 
data privacy and algorithmic transparency (Martin, 2019). Successful implementation requires an unwavering 
long-term vision from leadership and a financial structure (perhaps private ownership) that can withstand 
pressures for short-term, margin-focused results. 
 

6. Conclusion 
The narrative of luxury retail, with its ebbs and flows, mirrors the cyclical nature of fashion itself. This paper 

has journeyed back to the mid-20th century, exploring the European origins of bespoke service and its masterful 
adaptation by a generation of visionary American and British specialty retailers. The analysis reveals that the 
legendary status of these institutions was not a matter of chance, but the result of a disciplined adherence to a set of 
core principles. Their success was built upon a foundation of deep client intimacy, visionary curation, and an ethos 
that consistently and emphatically valued the long-term relationship over the short-term sale. In these salons, 
commerce was elevated to an art form, a collaborative process of value co-creation that is largely absent from the 
modern retail lexicon. These were not just stores; they were institutions of taste, social hubs where cultural capital 
was created and exchanged, and trusted partners in the construction of their clients' public and private identities. 

While the forces of consolidation, corporatization, and digitalization led to the decline of many such 
institutions, their core tenets have not lost their resonance. On the contrary, this study argues that they are more 
relevant now than ever. The contemporary retail landscape, so often defined by the cold efficiencies of scale and the 
anonymity of digital transactions, has created a profound experiential void. This study posits that this void, 
combined with a modern consumer's explicit demands for authenticity, sustainability, and genuine personalization, 
signals a latent yet potent market demand for a return to more meaningful retail relationships. The desire for a 
human touch, for expert guidance that feels genuine, and for a sense of belonging has not been coded out of the 
consumer psyche. 

The path forward, however, is not one of nostalgic replication, but of sophisticated and strategic re-
imagination. It is not about recreating the past, but about learning from its essential wisdom. To this end, this 



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paper has presented the "Empathetic Algorithm" model and a corresponding four-phase roadmap detailing how 
this revival can be achieved. It is a call to arms for a new generation of luxury retailers to look to the past not as a 
destination, but as a compass. By systematically establishing a service-first culture, by investing in "service 
artisans" and empowering them with human-centric technology, by weaving sustainability into the very fabric of 
the business model, and by committing to the long-term metrics of loyalty and trust, retailers can rebuild the art of 
bespoke service for the 21st century. This approach, which bridges the wisdom of the past with the imperatives of 
the future, offers a powerful blueprint for creating a vibrant, differentiated, and enduring competitive advantage in 
a market starved for genuine connection. The future of luxury does not lie in choosing between high-tech and high-
touch, but in the artful synthesis of the two. 
 

7. Limitations and Future Research 
While this study offers a robust conceptual framework, its qualitative nature and historical focus present 

certain limitations that, in turn, illuminate promising avenues for future research. Acknowledging these boundaries 
is crucial for situating this paper's contributions and for building a cumulative research tradition in this area. 

Initially, the generalizability of the findings is constrained by the qualitative methodology. The comparative 
analysis of a purposively selected set of exemplars is designed for theoretical depth and conceptual development, 
not statistical generalization. While the identified principles are argued to be foundational, their specific application 
and weighting may differ in other contexts. This limitation highlights the need for future quantitative research to 
test the propositions derived from the analysis. A large-scale survey could, for example, measure the relative 
impact of each of the six principles on customer loyalty and willingness to pay a premium. 

Subsequently, the study's reliance on historical and secondary data, while triangulated for validity, cannot fully 
replicate the richness of direct, contemporaneous observation. Moreover, the insider perspective on Martha's 
exemplar, while a unique strength providing unparalleled context, carries an inherent risk of bias, such as the 
potential to romanticize past practices. While a rigorous reflexive practice was employed to mitigate this, future 
historical studies could benefit from unearthing new private archives (e.g., internal financial records, client 
correspondence, the "client bibles" themselves) from other retailers to provide alternative, corroborating, or even 
conflicting accounts. 

Ultimately, the proposed "Empathetic Algorithm" model and its accompanying roadmap are, at this stage, 
conceptual. They represent a theoretically grounded ideal. This points to a critical need for in-depth, longitudinal 
ethnographic studies of contemporary 'neo-bespoke' retailers who are attempting to implement similar strategies. 
Such research could provide invaluable real-world insights into the operational challenges, the actual ROI of 
investing in "service artisans," the practical difficulties of integrating AI without compromising the human touch, 
and the organizational culture required to sustain such a model over time. 
Building on these limitations, the following specific directions for future research are proposed:  

• Empirical Validation of the Model: Future studies should aim to validate the "Empathetic Algorithm" model 
empirically. This could involve developing and validating a 'Bespoke Service Equity' scale, a multi-
dimensional construct measuring constructs like Perceived Trust, Relational Depth, Co-Creation Efficacy, 
and Perceived Authenticity. Such a scale could then be used in surveys to measure the long-term impact of 
these service strategies on crucial dependent variables like customer lifetime value (CLV), brand advocacy, 
and price insensitivity, moving beyond short-term sales metrics. 

• Cross-Cultural and Cross-Sectoral Analysis: The current study is primarily rooted in an American and 
British fashion context. Future research should conduct cross-cultural comparative analyses to explore how 
the principles of bespoke service are adapted in different global markets, considering cultural dimensions 
such as power distance and individualism-collectivism. For instance, a comparative ethnography of 
clienteling practices in a Parisian haute couture salon versus a high-end personal shopping service in 
Shanghai or Dubai would likely reveal crucial cultural nuances. Similarly, applying this framework to other 
luxury sectors, such as high-end travel, private banking, or yachting, could test the robustness of the six core 
principles beyond retail. 

• The Service Provider Perspective: This study focuses primarily on the firm and the customer. A critical area 
for future research is the employee perspective. What are the psychological and emotional impacts on the 
"service artisans" tasked with providing this level of deep, relational service? Research into the new forms of 
emotional labor required in a tech-augmented service environment, potential for burnout, and the HR 
policies (e.g., compensation, career development, psychological support) needed to attract and retain these 
unique professionals would be invaluable. 

• The Dark Side of Bespoke Service: Future inquiry could also explore the potential negative aspects of this 
model from a critical theory perspective. This includes investigating the ethical dimensions of extreme data 
collection in the pursuit of "profound client knowledge," the potential for creating exclusionary social 
structures and reinforcing social inequality, and the high-pressure environment it may create for employees. 
A critical examination of these potential downsides would provide a more balanced understanding of the 
model's societal implications. 

By pursuing these research avenues, the academic community can build upon the conceptual foundation laid in 
this paper, developing a more nuanced, empirically grounded, and critically aware understanding of the past, 
present, and future of bespoke service in the luxury marketplace. 
 

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