BCP Social Sciences & Humanities HASS 2022 Volume 18 (2022) 546 Innovative application of Diancui technology in modern jewelry design Shaojie Li Wuhan Textile University, Wuhan, China; Abstract. Diancui craft is a traditional Chinese handicraft, which has a history of more than 2000 years. Because of its complex production process and special materials, it has gradually faded out of the stage of history. In addition, due to the impact of western culture, many traditional Chinese handicrafts are facing the loss. This paper will study and analyze the history and development of Diancui craft, the production process of Diancui jewelry, and the application of Diancui craft in modern jewelry design. Combined with the relevant characteristics of modern jewelry design, we will find the commonness between traditional and modern, and provide new inspiration for the application of traditional crafts in modern jewelry design. How can we better inherit and develop the traditional Chinese Diancui craft. Keywords: Diancui craft, jewelry design, innovative application. 1. Historical origin and development of Diancui Technology 1.1 historical origin of Diancui Technology Diancui craft has been produced since the Han Dynasty. It is an auxiliary type of work in jewelry making, starting from the role of decorating and beautifying gold and silver jewelry. The material of the traditional jade lighting process is mainly kingfisher feathers, which are made of gold and silver as the tread and matched with various gemstones. Since ancient times, kingfisher feathers have been used to decorate the crown of the queen, which is still bright and shining after a long time. Therefore, the traditional process of making gold and silver jewelry, feather Diancui, has been popular in China for a long time, and its process level has been continuously improved, reaching its peak in the Qianlong era. 1.2 development summary of Diancui process Diancui technology came into being in the Han Dynasty and flourished in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, but it was generally the property of the court rich. Diancui began to spread among the people at the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China. It was deeply loved by women and they were all proud to own Diancui. At this time, foreign businessmen in China also had a strong interest in Diancui technology and began to purchase it in large quantities and ship it to China. In the later stage, because the process of ordering emerald needed to take the emerald feather alive, the method was cruel and was replaced by the blue burning process, which led to the decline of the process of ordering emerald and gradually withdrew from the public view. In 1933, the last Diancui factory in China was closed. 2. Manufacturing process of Diancui jewelry 2.1 materials for making Diancui jewelry Cuiyu: the so-called Cuiyu is the feather of kingfisher, and it is the most important decorative material for Diancui jewelry. Kingfisher is a medium-sized water bird that feeds on fish. Its abdomen is yellowish brown feathers, and its back is covered with bright blue feathers. The color of blue in different parts is different. According to records, the material control of Diancui jewelry is very strict. Generally, only 28 feathers can be used on a kingfisher, and they must be taken when the kingfisher is alive to ensure the color of its feathers。 BCP Social Sciences & Humanities HASS 2022 Volume 18 (2022) 547 Tire bottom: the tire bottom of Diancui jewelry is mainly gold and silver. On the one hand, gold and silver can be used to make jewelry independently and have been relatively valuable since ancient times. Using gold and silver as a part of jewelry can better show the value of Diancui jewelry. On the other hand, gold and silver have good ductility and plasticity, which can better grasp the shape of jewelry in jewelry making and is easy to preserve without deformation. Jewelry: in addition to using jade feather, Diancui jewelry will also be decorated with various precious materials such as colored jewelry, jade, emerald, pearl, coral and agate to make it more gorgeous. Therefore, Diancui jewelry is not only a jewelry, but also a valuable art. 2.2 production process of Diancui jewelry The production of Diancui jewelry mainly includes several processes, such as collecting, making tread, filigree inlaying, collecting and inlaying: Collection: the production of Diancui jewelry first requires the collection and selection of extremely high-quality kingfisher feathers. The book "Pearl, jade and brilliance" about the acquisition of kingfisher feathers wrote that "use small scissors to cut the feathers around the neck of a live kingfisher, and gently use tweezers to arrange the feathers on the base of the adhesive material on the figure. Kingfisher feathers are made of emerald blue, snow and green, with bright color and never fade." Cuiyu can show different colors such as banana moon, lake color and Dark Navy according to different parts and processes. In addition, the natural texture and magic light of bird feathers make the whole work full of changes and lively. According to the difference of kingfisher feathers, the process of ordering green jade is also divided into hard green jade and soft green jade. The so-called hard green jade is the larger feathers, which are generally ten on the left and right wings (called "big strip" in the jargon) and eight tail feathers (called "tail strip" in the jargon). Therefore, only about twenty-eight feathers are generally used on a Kingfisher. Soft emeralds are tiny and soft feathers. Tread inlay: generally, patterns with auspicious meanings are made of gold or silver according to needs. The collected Cuiyu is glued to the metal tread with special glue, and then decorated around Cuiyu with filigree inlay technology. Because the color of Cuiyu is relatively bright, it is more gorgeous with the decoration of gold edge. Collect the green jade: first, lay the green jade feather on the horn board, comb and flatten it, use a brush to dip in an appropriate amount of special glue on the back, and then cut it into a suitable shape after it is dry. Lightly touch the green jade feather with a brush or bamboo stick head dipped in saliva, and put it on the ornaments that have been coated with bone glue. Stack it in rows. When it is ready to dry, wrap the ordered green jade feather with cooked rice paper dipped in a little water in advance, and then dry it with the back of your hand, Gently press with your thumb and fingertip to make it firm. Finally, the jade feather should be scraped with an agate knife until it is blue, which is called "scrape green". The color of the jade feather after scrape will be more bright and never fade. 3. Innovative application of Diancui technology in modern jewelry design 3.1 innovation of Diancui materials Kingfisher, as a national protected animal, has been listed in the list of endangered animals, and hunting is prohibited. Therefore, the Diancui jewelry circulating in the market is basically handed down from ancient times. In order to make the Diancui craft can be inherited, on the one hand, people continue to explore alternatives to Cuiyu, such as peacock feathers or dyed goose feathers. On the other hand, because the traditional Diancui jewelry is made of gold and silver at the bottom and decorated with colorful gemstones, Jadeites, jades and other precious things, the cost is extremely expensive. Generally, it is the property of the court rich, and it is difficult to popularize. Therefore, modern Diancui jewelry should also seek other innovations in the material matching, such as using pearls, crystals, glass and some other artificial materials to match, so as to reduce the cost and price, and make it easy for the public to accept, So that we can continue to inherit. BCP Social Sciences & Humanities HASS 2022 Volume 18 (2022) 548 3.2 change of modeling color The traditional Diancui jewelry is also very grand in shape, which has a great relationship with the users of Diancui jewelry. In ancient times, Diancui ornaments could only be used by princes and nobles. In order to show their status, the ornaments were generally grand, large and auspicious patterns. Because the patterns were realistic, the shapes were extremely cumbersome. For example, in the recent years' popular Qing palace dramas "the legend of Zhen Huan" and "the legend of Ruyi", the empresses wore different headdresses according to their status levels, Therefore, the jewelry cost is extremely high, which can not be owned by ordinary people. Therefore, in the design of modern Diancui jewelry, we must simplify its red tape shape, which is in line with the simple aesthetic view of modern people. 4. Diancui jewelry design practice 4.1 Jewelry design inspiration In recent years, Qing palace opera has always been an important play in the film and television industry. In addition to the biography of Zhen Huan and the biography of Ruyi mentioned above, the introduction to Yan Xi has also been popular all over the Internet because of its high tone and high degree of historical restoration. Therefore, the opera has brought the traditional Chinese dress style of "Yun shoulder" back into people's vision. Cloud shoulder is also called shawl. In ancient times, the decorative fabric placed on the shoulder was only used to protect the cleanness of the collar and shoulder. Later, it gradually evolved into a kind of decorative fabric, which is mostly made of colorful brocade. The leaves are like clouds reflecting the sun after the rain, and the clear sky scatters rainbows. Yun shoulder is not only rich in decorative patterns, but also contains the philosophy of "the unity of heaven and man" in the Han nationality clothing culture. The overall shape of the necklace is inspired by "cloud shoulder". I used the chrysanthemum pattern on the decorative pattern. Chrysanthemum, as one of the most noble flowers in ancient times, has been considered to be able to lighten the body and replenish qi and make people live longer. Chrysanthemum is also regarded as the "recluse" among the flowers, and praised it for its wind strength and fresher frost, so it is often referred to as a gentleman. Chrysanthemum has been cultivated in China for more than 3000 years. Since the Song Dynasty, there has been an annual chrysanthemum festival among the people. Chrysanthemum has been endowed with auspicious and longevity Meaning, Chinese poets and painters of all dynasties recite poems and paint pictures with chrysanthemums as the theme, so they also left famous and excellent works of decorating ceramics with chrysanthemums. Therefore, the use of chrysanthemum pattern not only endows the works with auspicious and beautiful meanings, but also makes the works reflect a certain historical and cultural charm. In addition to the chrysanthemum pattern, I also chose the cloud pattern popular in the Han and Wei dynasties as an auxiliary pattern. On the one hand, it has the beautiful meaning of Ruyi Gaosheng, and on the other hand, the name of cloud pattern and cloud shoulder coincide. The cloud is in the sky, the chrysanthemum is on the ground, and the chrysanthemum is metaphorically a gentleman, which also achieves the concept of "the unity of heaven and man" in terms of decoration. 4.2 Jewelry design description and effect drawing This design is a series of products, including necklaces, earrings and rings. The necklaces are in the form of "cloud shoulder". The main pattern is chrysanthemum, and the auxiliary patterns are cloud pattern and Ruyi pattern, which all have the meaning of good luck. The earrings, rings and crowns extract the main pattern of the necklace - chrysanthemum as the main shape, making the four pieces more relevant. The artificial dyed goose feather is used to replace the green part of the material, and the green feather can be highly restored in color. The edge is decorated with gold edge and matched with pearl, BCP Social Sciences & Humanities HASS 2022 Volume 18 (2022) 549 white jade, red agate, etc. the overall tone is simple and elegant. The red agate can brighten the whole work, but it is not inconsistent（Figure 1 product rendering). Figure 1 product rendering 5. Summary Diancui is a traditional handicraft in China. It has been handed down to this day. Its historical and cultural charm is a unique treasure in the world. In today's society, science and technology are more and more developed. We should make use of technology and combine modern people's aesthetic taste to design and produce products that are more acceptable to the public, so that Diancui art can be better inherited and developed. References [1] Ge Xue, Research on the application of Diancui technology in modern jewelry design in the Qing Dynasty. Shenyang University 2016. [2] Hu Jie, Folk craft -- Diancui's past and present lives. Fujian tea 2020(02). [3] LV Mingxing, Inheritance and development of Diancui technology in modern jewelry. China University of Geosciences (Beijing) 2010. [4] About Diancui Nama blue. Horse thorn Journal of gems and gemology. 2017(S1). [5] Yan Bao, Development and design of Diancui jewelry. Journal of gems and gemology 2015(01) .