Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science 21 Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science | 10 | 2018 ISSN 2384-9568 1Hélène de Clermont- Gallerande helene.declermontgallerande@ chanel-corp.com [corresponding author] 1Nicolas Rolland nicolas.rolland@chanel-corp. com 1Patrick Doucet patrick.doucet@chanel-corp. com 1Julie Deydier julie.deydier@chanel-corp.com 2Anne Varichon anne.varichon@culturecouleur. com 2Barbara Blin-Barrois barbara@culturecouleur.com 1 CHANEL Parfums Beauté, 8 rue du Cheval Blanc CS40045, 93694 Pantin Cedex FRANCE 2 Culture Couleur SAS, 600 bureaux du Jas, 84000 Roussillon France The changing colour of CHANEL’s lipstick ranges from 1960 to 2015 ABSTRACT We compiled the history of CHANEL’s range of lipsticks between 1960 and 2015 by studying the colour charts carefully kept in the company’s archives. The chosen colour space is NCS System as the representation of hue, blackness and chromaticness are easy to communicate to non-colour experts. The number of shades increased steadily between 1960 and 2005, rising from 12 shades in 1960 to 55 shades in 2005. From the colour point of view, there is a predominance of orangey tones. Reds were always present. Bluish reds were in constant decline compared with other shades: fewer in number, with a shorter life on the markets and more unstable in Chanel’s offer. In terms of clarity, dark shades ranging to nearly black are in the great majority. As regards chromaticness, there is continuity in the saturated shades, especially the reds. Lastly, the shades are fashioned with a high degree of subtlety as they are often very close to one another in the colorimetric space. At CHANEL, the delicacy of the shades is due to their colorimetric fashioning with all the subtlety typical of the brand KEYWORDS Lipsticks, evolution, colour, colour charts, CHANEL, hue, NCS CITATION: de Clermont-Gallerande H., Rolland N., Doucet P., Deydier J., Varichon A. and Blin-Barrois B. (2018) ‘The changing colour of CHANEL’s lipstick ranges from 1960 to 2015’, Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science Journal, 10, pp. 21-29, DOI: 10.23738/ccsj.i102018.03 Received 28 June 2017; Revised 27 August 2018; Accepted 27 August 2018 Hélène de Clermont-Gallerande is Make-Up Research Laboratory Manager in CHANEL. PhD in Organic Chemistry, she has an experience of more than 25 years in Make-up and colour formulation in cosmetic field and is inventor of more than 10 cosmetics patents. She is teaching cosmetic formulation at Bordeaux’s University and published a collaborative book on Sensorial cosmetic raw materials. She managed the color analysis for this study. Nicolas Rolland is colorist in Chanel Colour Development laboratory for 5 years. Previously, he worked in l’Oreal, also as colorist. He has an expertise in color data management and achieved the measures of colour-charts for this study. After History of Art studies, Julie Deydier worked in Manufacture de Sèvres (china), Musée Galliéra (Paris City Fashion Museum), and joined CHANEL Heritage Department in 2003. She has been working more precisely on Fragrance and Beauty heritage for 11 years, developing a specialised knowkledge on luxury fragrance, makeup and skincare. Particularly interested in colour and its use in beauty, she added her expertise on CHANEL cosmetics in this study. Patrick Doucet is the CHANEL Fragrance and Beauty Heritage Manager since 25 years and an expert about the Gabrielle Chanel and the brand CHANEL history. His vision is that the Heritage must be a major contributor, in all its significant aspects, to the knowledge and the general development of the brand Anne Varichon, Anthropologist in Color Materials, Processes and Thinking, PhD in Applied Arts, expert in color charts. She publishes her researches in numerous publications (in particular “Colors”). She teaches in universities and fine art schools and is in charge of museographical or research programs (notably with CNRS). She comanages Culture Couleur, a specialized agency in color-related phenomena, supporting companies and institutions on projects and cooperating in research or training activities. Barbara Blin-Barrois, is an expert of systemic approaches and interdisciplinary methods, graduated in Political Sciences. She is cofoundator of ôkhra, a cultural colour cooperative in Provence. She organized for 20 years CNRS scientific schools about Colour Materials and color cultural programs. Barbara has developed specific pedagogical and mediation tools, favorizing multi-disciplinary stakeholders cooperation. She comanages Culture Couleur, a color research and learning agency. 22 Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science | 10 | 2018 | 21 - 29 de Clermont-Gallerande H., Rolland N., Doucet P., Deydier J., Varichon A. and Blin-Barrois B. ISSN 2384-9568 DOI: 10.23738/ccsj.i102018.03 1. INTRODUCTION The purpose of this study is to show how the colour of CHANEL Lipsticks has changed over the past 55 years. Since 1992 make-up products sold by the company have been kept, as have the colour charts, which represent all the available colour ranges in the form of a catalogue (Varichon, 2011). These have been archived since 1930, which is why the decision was taken to work only on colour charts since the range of colours is complete, while in the oldest ranges some lipstick colours are missing. To reveal trends, the colour charts used are at 5-year intervals, unless the colour chart of the desired year is missing. The selected years for the study are 1960, 1963, 1970, 1972, 1980, 1985, 1990, 1995, 2000, 2005, 2010 and 2015. 2. MATERIALS AND METHOD The correspondence of the colours between a lipstick and its graphical representation in the colour chart was validated by measurement comparison using an X-Rite VS450 contactless spectrophotometer in the CIEL*a*b* colour space, in order not to damage the documents, some of which are old, and unique items in CHANEL’s heritage collections. There were few differences between the different colour charts and the lipsticks, meaning that a scientific study could be conducted without bias. It should be noted that the high quality of the paper used to make the colour charts of luxury companies and appropriate archiving conditions mean that the documents can be kept for a very long time, and therefore that colour measurements made several years after printing can be used. At CHANEL all the documents are stored in darkness, in rooms kept at a constant temperature of 19°C with 60 % relative humidity (hygrometry). They are handled only with gloves (Colour chart from 1960 - 1963 - 1970 - 1972 - 1980 - 1985 - 1990 - 1995 - 2000 - 2005 - 2010. CHANEL own property). The colour samples of the colour charts are made through paint deposition by a serigraphy process. The NCS® system was chosen for the measurement of colour charts. The NCS® Colour Scan colorimeter was used to measure the 379 reference shades on the colour charts. Duplicate NCS® references (or references with 3 or more identical references) were eliminated using the NCS® Atlas (by eye, D65 light, X-Rite box) except where no NCS® coordinate allowed a distinction to be made between colours (NCS Color Atlas, 3rd edition, 1996; NCS Color Album, 2nd edition, 1995). Data was entered in the NCS Navigator® application and displayed in the 3D space (ncscolor.com). Hydrabase 1972 Superhydrabase 1985 Figure 1 - Comparison between colour charts and lipsticks . Figure 2 - The studied colour charts store in Patrimony Department from CHANEL. Ranked from top to bottom: 1960, 1963, 1970, 1972, 1980, 1985, 1990, 1995, 2000, 2005, 2010, 2015. . 23 Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science | 10 | 2018 | 21 - 29 The changing colour of CHANEL’s lipstick ranges from 1960 to 2015 ISSN 2384-9568 Each colour chart measured is characterized (hue, blackness, chromaticness). A comparative analysis between the different years is made (Perec, 2003). This made it possible to determine changes in colour ranges over the years, forming a colour time line specific to CHANEL. 3. RESULTS The first period identified within the scope of the study was from 1960 to 1970. It is distinctive for the presence of a low blackness level and clear shades, high chromaticness or, the opposite, high desaturation of shades, the creation of 3 classical colours for Chanel and the beginning of chromatic explorations (Galante, 1972). From 1960, there were 12 lip colours, only light shades. Saturated clear reds were already present. 12 additional pearlised shades appeared in 1963. These were all light and desaturated colours. This is explained by the launch of mica-titanium white pearls in 1959 by the Merck™ company. The saturated reds are retained and Scintillant is launched. This Rouge-Orangé (orangey-red) lipstick would be renamed Sari Doré in 1972 and still features in the Rouge Coco 2015 lipstick range. In 1970, golden and pale beiges predominated, reflecting the androgynous style first adopted by Twiggy, but also a desire by the CHANEL company to be creative and innovative in the colours it offered (Delay, 1973). In this same year, 2 other classic shades were created: Téhéran, is still offered today after 52 years in the Rouge Coco range under the same name (Mollard-Desfour, 2001; 2002), and Bombay that would last until 1990. Interestingly, Figure 3 - The chosen colour space is NCS System. The 3D representation of hue, blackness and chromaticness are easy to communicate to non- colour experts Figure 4 - First period is from 1960 to 1970: Low blackness level, creation of 3 classical shades for CHANEL and beginning of chromatic explorations. 24 Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science | 10 | 2018 | 21 - 29 de Clermont-Gallerande H., Rolland N., Doucet P., Deydier J., Varichon A. and Blin-Barrois B. ISSN 2384-9568 DOI: 10.23738/ccsj.i102018.03 under its permanent name. The predominance of orangey reds was affirmed to the point that only one bluish-red was offered in the range of 1972. In 1980, the range offered 30 shades and saw the inclusion of an increased number of browns. These browns continued the changes begun in 1972 by reducing the differences between the colours. The shades were very closely packed in the colorimetric space, which created an increasingly subtle differentiation between them. The shades rooted in the brand’s DNA appeared: Printemps Doré, now Marie, Prunelle now called Cécile, Pivoine which has become Arthur, Feu which is Gabrielle and Bois Jackie Kennedy’s visit to India in 1962 would influence the names given to CHANEL products, names such as Bombay, Sari Doré, Delhi, Ispahan. The second period is from 1972 to 1980. It is characterized by the introduction of very dark shades, not only breaking away from medium light shades, but also establishing CHANEL’s colour basics for its lipsticks. The range was still in beige tones but had darkened towards browns. In 1980, Fauve was the precursor of the red-blacks dear to CHANEL. Few very bright colours except a few bright reds survived from earlier years. The Sari Doré colour, still present in CHANEL’s range today, made its appearance Figure 5 - Second period is from 1972 to 1980: Introduction of very dark shades and establishment of CHANEL’s colour basics for its lipsticks. Figure 6 - Third period is from 1985 to 1995: Presence of bluish reds and of very similar tones 25 Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science | 10 | 2018 | 21 - 29 The changing colour of CHANEL’s lipstick ranges from 1960 to 2015 ISSN 2384-9568 Doré which is now Misia. Although the range is darker, a few saturated reds persist. Despite the death of Gabrielle CHANEL in 1971, CHANEL’s colour positioning continued to be rolled out: the predominance of orangey-reds, deep shades, the close similarity of subtly different shades in order to differentiate the range and the presence of saturated reds. A third period covers the years between 1985 and 1995. It is distinctive not only for the presence of bluish reds – a very temporary phase at CHANEL – but also for the constancy of an offer of darker and darker shades and very similar tones. In 1985, the colour range was very balanced: the range offered 30 shades, 10 of which were still orangey tones divided between light and dark shades although the very desaturated browns of 1980 had disappeared. Bluish colours reappeared in light or dark shades and a group of highly saturated reds remained. In 1990, the colour chart presented 35 bright colours. The bluish shades were light or dark and sometimes highly saturated. The range of reds expanded to the point that the shades overlap in the colorimetric space. The orangey shades were more individualised and brighter than before. In 1995, CHANEL offered 42 shades of lipstick that explored dark tones. The very light shades vanished. Only 6 light and with high chromaticness colours, including Sari Doré, maintained brightness. Through an innovative blend of black and red, CHANEL’s Vernis Rouge Noir was created for the Autumn- Winter 1994 catwalk show. A lipstick of the same colour was launched in 1996. During this decade, the similarity of the shades created translated into the existence of a number of duplicates: several lipsticks register on exactly the same NCS reference. This means that the shades are very similar as a group but look different when applied because of a more or less marked transparent effect or a pearly sheen. The fourth and last period is from 2000 to 2015. It is characterized by very deep shades, a marked low chromaticness as a result of nudging the center of the colorimetric space, particularly in 2000, an over-representation of orangey-reds and the similarity of the shades offered. In 2000, deep shades were offered with two very dark shades included in the range: Brun Sortilège and the iconic Rouge Noir. This time Sari Doré was still the only light and saturated colour. The number of shades and their close juxtaposition made it hard to discriminate to such levels of desaturation. In 2005, CHANEL offered 55 shades in order to meet the needs of worldwide business. This range was made lighter by the return of low chromaticness light shades, designed for the Asian market, even though dark shades continued to predominate (Varichon, 2011). In 2010, the range refocused on 37 shades but discarded all bluish shades with the exception of Rose Comète. The exclusion under cosmetics regulations of Red 19 and Red 9 in the 1990s, both natural fuchsia pink pigments, explains the difficulties of formulating bluish shades of lipstick. It retained a predominance of dark and desaturated shades going to almost black. High chromaticness shades, with the exception of Sari Doré, were discontinued. This decade showcased the “Near- blacks” with measurements that fell very low on the clarity axis and very high desaturation levels (Morand, 1976). The shades overlapped in the NCS colorimetric space, which shows that the different shades were worked to the limits of the ability to distinguish one from the other. In 2015, the range comprises 28 shades Figure 7 - Fourth and last period is from 2000 to 2015: Confirmation of very dark shades and low chromaticness, predominancy of orangey-red and very similar tones 26 Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science | 10 | 2018 | 21 - 29 de Clermont-Gallerande H., Rolland N., Doucet P., Deydier J., Varichon A. and Blin-Barrois B. ISSN 2384-9568 DOI: 10.23738/ccsj.i102018.03 1960 1963 1970 1972 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 1960 1963 1970 1972 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 B NCS S NCS S 1 Vison9 Saumon 0570-Y90R 11 Étincelant 5 Radieux 20 Radieux 8 Garance 14 Étincelant 0580-Y80R 56 Téhéran 29 Vison43 Scintillant57 Madalay 2 Bois de Rose59 Colombo27 Saumon 70 Manille 3020-Y80R 66 Lhassa 2040-Y50R 2 Bois de rose64 Bombay 56 Téhéran10 Jeunesse 0570-Y80R 67 Baalbeck 1515-Y90R 68 Mysore 2020-Y90R 42 Rose Tropique 2030-Y60R 72 Sari 1060-Y90R 5 Été 15 Orange 2075-Y60R 18 Acajou87 Airelle81 Atoll83 Cristal de Roche56 Téhéran 88 Miel24 Bois Doré 74 Ceylan 74 Ceylan 75 Pivoine76 Sari Doré 78 Mysore Doré 3030-Y80R 25 Été Doré64 Bombay 82 Lagon23 Pourpre 76 Sari Doré 20 Rouge Podium 33 Rouge Fou Rire 14 Brun Insolent#29 Brasier d‘Or56 Téhéran67 Bombay 2030-Y90R 70 Rouge Coromandel 75 Pivoine 52 Cayenne 22 Rouge Star 36 Lune Rousse34 Rouge de Minuit 1085-Y80R 76 Sari Doré 45 Aventure65 Éclair Rouge22 Rouge Star56 Téhéran 70 Rouge Coromandel 66 Rouge de Nuit 1580-Y90R 60 Rouge Evasion 2070-Y80R 42 Rouge Coralline 62 Fatal 36 Lune Rousse14 Brun Insolent50 Félin 39 Ambre d‘Or20 Rouge Podium 1085-Y90R 76 Sari Doré 45 Aventure 67 Beige Mythique22 Rouge Star56 Téhéran 70 Rouge Coromandel 81 Rouge Péché 52 Craquant 49 Délice 99 Ellipse 62 Fatal 36 Lune Rousse 36 Lune Rousse Russet Moon 93 Métal Roux 14 Brun Insolent50 Félin12 Satellite 89 Odyssée95 Magnétique 39 Ambre d‘Or26 Brun Glacé 5020-Y90R 97 Rouge Ténèbre 21 Brun Sortilège1 Sorbet Orange 1580-Y80R 98 Sensible 84 Beige de Chanel 6020-Y90R 76 Sari Doré 69 Tango 2060-Y90R 56 Téhéran72 Jaïpur Coral 2050-Y80R 3 Cashmere 77 Crinoline 42 Miami Peach 25 Energie 45 Aventure80 Osaka Peach 67 Beige Mythique Temptress 4020-Y90R 90 Pirate17 Lys 1070-Y90R 51 Iris 2040-Y90R 83 Hanoï Pink 4030-Y90R 68 Captif 2040-Y80R 27 Baby Gold 3030-Y90R 58 Tokyo Beige 4040-Y60R 6 Orient41 Sahara Beige 70 Barcelona Red #53 Mirobolant Swing79 Rose Paradise 28 Pulsion50 Félin 71 Shantung 84 Moiré 54 Toscane Bronze 7020-Y80R 2 Perlé 4030-Y80R 6 Égérie35 Chintz 30 Baroque 6030-Y90R 56 Téhéran 19 Gabrielle 25 Vendôme 3560-Y90R 28 Byzantin 36 Lune Rousse 4550-Y90R 15 Ruban Rose 3050-Y90R 4 Cashmere 2060-Y80R 27 Talisman 5040-Y90R 14 Muse 4040-Y90R 17 Orchidée 21 Rivoli8 La Pausa 3060-Y80R 76 Sari Doré 33 Bois des Iles 5030-Y90R 29 Ballet Russe 7020-Y90R 31 Cambon 3060-Y90R 10 Camélia 4050-Y90R 26 Venise 6030-Y80R 24 Bel Respiro 3560-Y80R 32 Sycomore 5040-Y80R 1 Beige Félin 5030-Y80R 3 Secret 3050-Y80R 34 Satin 4040-Y80R 410 Catherine 1050-Y80R 440 Arthur 2070-Y90R 404 Julia 3040-Y90R 402 Adrienne 3040-Y80R 400 Louise 3030-Y70R 414 Sari Doré 1070-Y80R 406 Antoinette 4550-Y80R 416 Coco 1080-Y90R 408 Jeanne 5540-Y90R 418 Misia 2570-Y80R 444 Gabrielle 2570-Y90R 412 Téhéran 2050-Y90R 64 Bombay 84 Grenade76 Sari Doré 53 Garance 75 Pivoine 52 Cayenne 19 Feu 62 Cuivre 62 Cuivre 73 Braise Doré 45 Piment88 Miel35 Rouge de CHANEL 25 Été Doré7 Gorge de Pigeon56 Téhéran 34 Sable Roux51 Brun Flamboyant39 Rose Flamboyant 32 Sable Rose 70 Rouge Coromandel76 Sari Doré 68 Aurore53 Garance 75 Pivoine 52 Cayenne 54 Rouge Impatient 9 Brun Marine56 Téhéran 3560-Y70R 0570-Y90R 0580-Y80R 3020-Y80R2040-Y50R0570-Y80R 1515-Y90R 2020-Y90R 2030-Y60R1060-Y90R 2075-Y60R 3030-Y80R2030-Y90R1085-Y80R 1580-Y90R 2070-Y80R1085-Y90R 5020-Y90R1580-Y80R 6020-Y90R2060-Y90R 2050-Y80R 4020-Y90R1070-Y90R 2040-Y90R 4030-Y90R2040-Y80R 3030-Y90R 4040-Y60R 7020-Y80R4030-Y80R 6030-Y90R3560-Y90R 4550-Y90R3050-Y90R2060-Y80R 5040-Y90R4040-Y90R3060-Y80R 5030-Y90R 7020-Y90R3060-Y90R 4050-Y90R 6030-Y80R3560-Y80R 5040-Y80R5030-Y80R3050-Y80R 4040-Y80R1050-Y80R 2070-Y90R 3040-Y90R3040-Y80R3030-Y70R1070-Y80R 4550-Y80R1080-Y90R 5540-Y90R2570-Y80R 2570-Y90R2050-Y90R 3560-Y70R 67 Bombay distinctive for their variety and brightness. Colours are deployed in the colorimetric space, reconnecting with the individualised tones that had been eliminated since the 1970s. The range has rediscovered a balance not only between orangey, red and bluish shades, but between light and dark shades too. 4. DISCUSSION Hue: If one has to identify the signature lipstick shades specific to CHANEL, this is what appears to emerge from this study: Predominance and constancy of the orangey colours. These are present as beiges and browns, but also as vivid tones. The most emblematic are Sari Doré, reference NCS 2070- Y90R which has been present since 1972 with 10 occurrences and Téhéran under NCS reference 2050-Y90R present since 1963, or 52 years and 11 occurrences at the time of the study. The saturation of the reds. There are fewer of Figure 8 - Colour Time Line for the Orangey Red Lipsticks. The vertical axis represents the years studied. The horizontal axis represents the NCS references ranked from the lower to the higher blackness. Each coloured rectangle is the representation of a lipstick mentioned on a colour chart. 1960 1963 1970 1972 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 1960 1963 1970 1972 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 B NCS S NCS S 1 Vison9 Saumon 0570-Y90R 11 Étincelant 5 Radieux 20 Radieux 8 Garance 14 Étincelant 0580-Y80R 56 Téhéran 29 Vison43 Scintillant57 Madalay 2 Bois de Rose59 Colombo27 Saumon 70 Manille 3020-Y80R 66 Lhassa 2040-Y50R 2 Bois de rose64 Bombay 56 Téhéran10 Jeunesse 0570-Y80R 67 Baalbeck 1515-Y90R 68 Mysore 2020-Y90R 42 Rose Tropique 2030-Y60R 72 Sari 1060-Y90R 5 Été 15 Orange 2075-Y60R 18 Acajou87 Airelle81 Atoll83 Cristal de Roche56 Téhéran 88 Miel24 Bois Doré 74 Ceylan 74 Ceylan 75 Pivoine76 Sari Doré 78 Mysore Doré 3030-Y80R 25 Été Doré64 Bombay 82 Lagon23 Pourpre 76 Sari Doré 20 Rouge Podium 33 Rouge Fou Rire 14 Brun Insolent#29 Brasier d‘Or56 Téhéran67 Bombay 2030-Y90R 70 Rouge Coromandel 75 Pivoine 52 Cayenne 22 Rouge Star 36 Lune Rousse34 Rouge de Minuit 1085-Y80R 76 Sari Doré 45 Aventure65 Éclair Rouge22 Rouge Star56 Téhéran 70 Rouge Coromandel 66 Rouge de Nuit 1580-Y90R 60 Rouge Evasion 2070-Y80R 42 Rouge Coralline 62 Fatal 36 Lune Rousse14 Brun Insolent50 Félin 39 Ambre d‘Or20 Rouge Podium 1085-Y90R 76 Sari Doré 45 Aventure 67 Beige Mythique22 Rouge Star56 Téhéran 70 Rouge Coromandel 81 Rouge Péché 52 Craquant 49 Délice 99 Ellipse 62 Fatal 36 Lune Rousse 36 Lune Rousse Russet Moon 93 Métal Roux 14 Brun Insolent50 Félin12 Satellite 89 Odyssée95 Magnétique 39 Ambre d‘Or26 Brun Glacé 5020-Y90R 97 Rouge Ténèbre 21 Brun Sortilège1 Sorbet Orange 1580-Y80R 98 Sensible 84 Beige de Chanel 6020-Y90R 76 Sari Doré 69 Tango 2060-Y90R 56 Téhéran72 Jaïpur Coral 2050-Y80R 3 Cashmere 77 Crinoline 42 Miami Peach 25 Energie 45 Aventure80 Osaka Peach 67 Beige Mythique Temptress 4020-Y90R 90 Pirate17 Lys 1070-Y90R 51 Iris 2040-Y90R 83 Hanoï Pink 4030-Y90R 68 Captif 2040-Y80R 27 Baby Gold 3030-Y90R 58 Tokyo Beige 4040-Y60R 6 Orient41 Sahara Beige 70 Barcelona Red #53 Mirobolant Swing79 Rose Paradise 28 Pulsion50 Félin 71 Shantung 84 Moiré 54 Toscane Bronze 7020-Y80R 2 Perlé 4030-Y80R 6 Égérie35 Chintz 30 Baroque 6030-Y90R 56 Téhéran 19 Gabrielle 25 Vendôme 3560-Y90R 28 Byzantin 36 Lune Rousse 4550-Y90R 15 Ruban Rose 3050-Y90R 4 Cashmere 2060-Y80R 27 Talisman 5040-Y90R 14 Muse 4040-Y90R 17 Orchidée 21 Rivoli8 La Pausa 3060-Y80R 76 Sari Doré 33 Bois des Iles 5030-Y90R 29 Ballet Russe 7020-Y90R 31 Cambon 3060-Y90R 10 Camélia 4050-Y90R 26 Venise 6030-Y80R 24 Bel Respiro 3560-Y80R 32 Sycomore 5040-Y80R 1 Beige Félin 5030-Y80R 3 Secret 3050-Y80R 34 Satin 4040-Y80R 410 Catherine 1050-Y80R 440 Arthur 2070-Y90R 404 Julia 3040-Y90R 402 Adrienne 3040-Y80R 400 Louise 3030-Y70R 414 Sari Doré 1070-Y80R 406 Antoinette 4550-Y80R 416 Coco 1080-Y90R 408 Jeanne 5540-Y90R 418 Misia 2570-Y80R 444 Gabrielle 2570-Y90R 412 Téhéran 2050-Y90R 64 Bombay 84 Grenade76 Sari Doré 53 Garance 75 Pivoine 52 Cayenne 19 Feu 62 Cuivre 62 Cuivre 73 Braise Doré 45 Piment88 Miel35 Rouge de CHANEL 25 Été Doré7 Gorge de Pigeon56 Téhéran 34 Sable Roux51 Brun Flamboyant39 Rose Flamboyant 32 Sable Rose 70 Rouge Coromandel76 Sari Doré 68 Aurore53 Garance 75 Pivoine 52 Cayenne 54 Rouge Impatient 9 Brun Marine56 Téhéran 3560-Y70R 0570-Y90R 0580-Y80R 3020-Y80R2040-Y50R0570-Y80R 1515-Y90R 2020-Y90R 2030-Y60R1060-Y90R 2075-Y60R 3030-Y80R2030-Y90R1085-Y80R 1580-Y90R 2070-Y80R1085-Y90R 5020-Y90R1580-Y80R 6020-Y90R2060-Y90R 2050-Y80R 4020-Y90R1070-Y90R 2040-Y90R 4030-Y90R2040-Y80R 3030-Y90R 4040-Y60R 7020-Y80R4030-Y80R 6030-Y90R3560-Y90R 4550-Y90R3050-Y90R2060-Y80R 5040-Y90R4040-Y90R3060-Y80R 5030-Y90R 7020-Y90R3060-Y90R 4050-Y90R 6030-Y80R3560-Y80R 5040-Y80R5030-Y80R3050-Y80R 4040-Y80R1050-Y80R 2070-Y90R 3040-Y90R3040-Y80R3030-Y70R1070-Y80R 4550-Y80R1080-Y90R 5540-Y90R2570-Y80R 2570-Y90R2050-Y90R 3560-Y70R 67 Bombay 27 Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science | 10 | 2018 | 21 - 29 The changing colour of CHANEL’s lipstick ranges from 1960 to 2015 ISSN 2384-9568 these than there are orangey colours, but their saturation makes them stand out. Reds such as Rouge Noir, with 3 occurrences, reference NCS 7020-R, are all intense, and have become iconic. One can also mention Paris, reference NCS 2570-R, and Marie, reference NCS 3560- R, both repeated in 8 occurrences. The reds have exceptional longevity at CHANEL: a red shade remains on the market for 19 years on average. So there is little novelty but real fidelity over time, which shows that the true reds suit CHANEL’s customers. The discretion of blue tones. No signature specific to CHANEL emerges. Only one shade representative of this tonality appears twice in the ranges: Bruyère in 1972, as well as Rose Comète in 2010. Amongst the longest lasting blues, reference NCS 2060-R10B is repeated on 6 occasions and reference 2070-R10B is repeated on 8 occasions. 1960 1963 1970 1972 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 1960 1963 1970 1972 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 NCS S NCS S 1040-R20B 1050-R10B 6020-R10B3040-R10B1040-R10B 2040-R20B 2060-R10B 2060-R20B 2065-R20B1060-R20B 4050-R20B 7020-R20B2070-R10B1575-R10B 2050-R20B 4030-R20B2040-R10B 3040-R 2050-R10B 4050-R 3060-R10B 1070-R 1070-R20B 3050-R10B 1580-R 3040-R20B 2040-R 6030-R1080-R 5040-R1060-R 3020-R 4020-R10B 4030-R 2060-R 3060-R 7020-R0550-R 2070-R 5030-R0565-R 3560-R 3050-R2050-R 1060-R10B 4050-R10B 6030-R20B1070-R10B 2570-R 4040-R 5020-R20B 5040-R10B3060-R20B 1040-R20B 1050-R10B 6020-R10B3040-R10B1040-R10B 2040-R20B 2060-R10B 2060-R20B 2065-R20B1060-R20B 4050-R20B 7020-R20B2070-R10B1575-R10B 2050-R20B 4030-R20B2040-R10B 2050-R10B 3060-R10B1070-R20B 3050-R10B3040-R20B 4020-R10B1060-R10B 4050-R10B 6030-R20B1070-R10B 5020-R20B 5040-R10B3060-R20B 3030-R0560-R 3040-R 4050-R1070-R 1580-R 2040-R 6030-R1080-R 5040-R1060-R 3020-R 4030-R 2060-R 3060-R 7020-R0550-R 2070-R 5030-R0565-R 3560-R 3050-R2050-R 2570-R 4040-R3030-R0560-R 10 Midi 7 Rue Cambon 30 Primerose 42 Rose Tropique 13 Midi 60 Delhi 61 Karachi31 Rue Cambon12 Éclatant 60 Delhi13 Midi4 Printemps 26 Printemps Doré77 Manille Doré 89 Prunelle16 Sangria13 Midi 38 Rouge Flamboyant 38 Rouge Flamboyant 38 Rouge Flamboyant 27 Praline 99 Rose Cuivré 8 Griotte 12 Rouge Dragon 23 Rouge Orage37 Rose Caprice 32 Rouge Imprévu 2 Rouge Marquise 38 Rouge Flamboyant 78 Provocation 2 Rouge Marquise 64 Écrin Rouge44 Rose Frêle 12 Rouge Dragon 47 Escapade35 Accent 3 Or Rouge 72 Rouge Imaginaire 23 Rouge Orage 23 Rouge Orage 92 Rose Passion 40 Pourpre 20 Sidéral59 Canicule33 Polaire 82 Topaze 47 Escapade 40 Pourpre 88 Calypso86 Boréal 53 Mirobolant 18 Rouge Noir 47 Escapade Désert Rose 23 Rouge Orage Rosestone94 Aurora 60 New York Red2 India762 Image Rose 48 English Rose 65 Fire78 Shanghaï Red 49 Venice Violine64 Rose Baby 18 Rouge Noir Vamp 18 Rouge Noir23 Rouge Orage22 Paris 11 Légende37 Rose Dentelle 13 Gardénia 5 Mademoiselle16 Taffetas Rose 9 Organdi Rose 428 Légende432 Cécile 434 Mademoiselle442 Dimitri 446 Étienne430 Marie 438 Suzanne 6 Éclatant 92 Rose Passion 77 Manille Doré 27 Praline 8 Griotte13 Midi 02 Rouge en Diable 77 Rouge Comédie 92 Rose Passion 01 Terre Cuite 1 Vénitien 99 Rose Cuivré 27 Praline Rose 83 Brun Coromandel 8 Griotte 89 Ouragan Rouge 26 Rouge Magique 37 Rose Caprice 87 Flamme Rose 98 Rose Brûlant 12 Flamme2 Rose Aurore 3 Rose Mousseline 4 Rose Tendre 55 Ispahan22 Rose Aurore 22 Rose Aurore 9 Rose Mousseline1 Rose Tendre 62 Ankara 46 Fuchsia 58 Bénarès63 Lahore19 Flamme 19 Flamme 73 Taloda 17 Bruyère 30 Rose Fission 19 Rouge N°1948 Rose de Chanel 86 Flamme Bleue 90 Ouragan Bleu91 Rose Éclat 91 Rose Éclat 16 Rose Escale 6 Rouge Satin 13 Rose Fou 57 Bengale 31 Faille Rose68 Aurore 41 Précieux #17 Intensité Rose 6 Rouge Satin48 Rose de CHANEL 19 Rouge N°19 55 Envoûtant 79 Insolite 91 Rose Éclat16 Rose Escale 13 Rose Fou 30 Rose Frisson 31 Faille Rose 46 Rose d‘Or61 Rose de Glace 41 Précieux17 Intensité Rose #9 Rouge N°1955 Evoûtant34 Sirocco 37 Morocco96 Rouge Argent 57 Pimpant 61 Rose de Glace 10 Malice 73 Violette 29 Fuschine55 Envoûtant Berry11 Sirène7 Bengale 19 Rouge N°1957 Pimpant66 Vanity 40 Pink Ballerina13 Rosalilas 32 Vibrant4 Azaléa 34 Sirocco44 Paris Pink 20 Rose Comète 450 Ina420 Vera 426 Roussy 452 Émilienne 454 Jean422 Olga 456 Erik424 Édith 448 Élise 43 Carmin61 Fuchsia 7 Rose Marine 55 Fauve 48 Rose de CHANEL 57 Bengale 86 Flamme Bleue59 Bruyère 71 Laque Rouge Figure 9 - Colour Time Line for the Blue and Red Lipsticks. The vertical axis represents the years studied. The horizontal axis represents the NCS references ranked from the lower to the higher blackness. Each coloured rectangle is the representation of a lipstick mentioned on a colour chart 1960 1963 1970 1972 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 1960 1963 1970 1972 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 NCS S NCS S 1040-R20B 1050-R10B 6020-R10B3040-R10B1040-R10B 2040-R20B 2060-R10B 2060-R20B 2065-R20B1060-R20B 4050-R20B 7020-R20B2070-R10B1575-R10B 2050-R20B 4030-R20B2040-R10B 3040-R 2050-R10B 4050-R 3060-R10B 1070-R 1070-R20B 3050-R10B 1580-R 3040-R20B 2040-R 6030-R1080-R 5040-R1060-R 3020-R 4020-R10B 4030-R 2060-R 3060-R 7020-R0550-R 2070-R 5030-R0565-R 3560-R 3050-R2050-R 1060-R10B 4050-R10B 6030-R20B1070-R10B 2570-R 4040-R 5020-R20B 5040-R10B3060-R20B 1040-R20B 1050-R10B 6020-R10B3040-R10B1040-R10B 2040-R20B 2060-R10B 2060-R20B 2065-R20B1060-R20B 4050-R20B 7020-R20B2070-R10B1575-R10B 2050-R20B 4030-R20B2040-R10B 2050-R10B 3060-R10B1070-R20B 3050-R10B3040-R20B 4020-R10B1060-R10B 4050-R10B 6030-R20B1070-R10B 5020-R20B 5040-R10B3060-R20B 3030-R0560-R 3040-R 4050-R1070-R 1580-R 2040-R 6030-R1080-R 5040-R1060-R 3020-R 4030-R 2060-R 3060-R 7020-R0550-R 2070-R 5030-R0565-R 3560-R 3050-R2050-R 2570-R 4040-R3030-R0560-R 10 Midi 7 Rue Cambon 30 Primerose 42 Rose Tropique 13 Midi 60 Delhi 61 Karachi31 Rue Cambon12 Éclatant 60 Delhi13 Midi4 Printemps 26 Printemps Doré77 Manille Doré 89 Prunelle16 Sangria13 Midi 38 Rouge Flamboyant 38 Rouge Flamboyant 38 Rouge Flamboyant 27 Praline 99 Rose Cuivré 8 Griotte 12 Rouge Dragon 23 Rouge Orage37 Rose Caprice 32 Rouge Imprévu 2 Rouge Marquise 38 Rouge Flamboyant 78 Provocation 2 Rouge Marquise 64 Écrin Rouge44 Rose Frêle 12 Rouge Dragon 47 Escapade35 Accent 3 Or Rouge 72 Rouge Imaginaire 23 Rouge Orage 23 Rouge Orage 92 Rose Passion 40 Pourpre 20 Sidéral59 Canicule33 Polaire 82 Topaze 47 Escapade 40 Pourpre 88 Calypso86 Boréal 53 Mirobolant 18 Rouge Noir 47 Escapade Désert Rose 23 Rouge Orage Rosestone94 Aurora 60 New York Red2 India762 Image Rose 48 English Rose 65 Fire78 Shanghaï Red 49 Venice Violine64 Rose Baby 18 Rouge Noir Vamp 18 Rouge Noir23 Rouge Orage22 Paris 11 Légende37 Rose Dentelle 13 Gardénia 5 Mademoiselle16 Taffetas Rose 9 Organdi Rose 428 Légende432 Cécile 434 Mademoiselle442 Dimitri 446 Étienne430 Marie 438 Suzanne 6 Éclatant 92 Rose Passion 77 Manille Doré 27 Praline 8 Griotte13 Midi 02 Rouge en Diable 77 Rouge Comédie 92 Rose Passion 01 Terre Cuite 1 Vénitien 99 Rose Cuivré 27 Praline Rose 83 Brun Coromandel 8 Griotte 89 Ouragan Rouge 26 Rouge Magique 37 Rose Caprice 87 Flamme Rose 98 Rose Brûlant 12 Flamme2 Rose Aurore 3 Rose Mousseline 4 Rose Tendre 55 Ispahan22 Rose Aurore 22 Rose Aurore 9 Rose Mousseline1 Rose Tendre 62 Ankara 46 Fuchsia 58 Bénarès63 Lahore19 Flamme 19 Flamme 73 Taloda 17 Bruyère 30 Rose Fission 19 Rouge N°1948 Rose de Chanel 86 Flamme Bleue 90 Ouragan Bleu91 Rose Éclat 91 Rose Éclat 16 Rose Escale 6 Rouge Satin 13 Rose Fou 57 Bengale 31 Faille Rose68 Aurore 41 Précieux #17 Intensité Rose 6 Rouge Satin48 Rose de CHANEL 19 Rouge N°19 55 Envoûtant 79 Insolite 91 Rose Éclat16 Rose Escale 13 Rose Fou 30 Rose Frisson 31 Faille Rose 46 Rose d‘Or61 Rose de Glace 41 Précieux17 Intensité Rose #9 Rouge N°1955 Evoûtant34 Sirocco 37 Morocco96 Rouge Argent 57 Pimpant 61 Rose de Glace 10 Malice 73 Violette 29 Fuschine55 Envoûtant Berry11 Sirène7 Bengale 19 Rouge N°1957 Pimpant66 Vanity 40 Pink Ballerina13 Rosalilas 32 Vibrant4 Azaléa 34 Sirocco44 Paris Pink 20 Rose Comète 450 Ina420 Vera 426 Roussy 452 Émilienne 454 Jean422 Olga 456 Erik424 Édith 448 Élise 43 Carmin61 Fuchsia 7 Rose Marine 55 Fauve 48 Rose de CHANEL 57 Bengale 86 Flamme Bleue59 Bruyère 71 Laque Rouge 28 Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science | 10 | 2018 | 21 - 29 de Clermont-Gallerande H., Rolland N., Doucet P., Deydier J., Varichon A. and Blin-Barrois B. ISSN 2384-9568 DOI: 10.23738/ccsj.i102018.03 Blackness: Dark colours are in the majority, and include near-blacks. Except for the years 1960, 1963 and 1970, when the ranges only had light colours, from 1972 most colours have been dark. Dark does not mean dull: Rouge Noir is dark and very vivid. The years 1995, 2000, 2005 and 2010, in particular, developed dark tonalities. Since 2000 the dark colours have been very close to black in the chromatic space. There is only one colour with this degree of black in the 2015 range, but more than 3/4 of the range was in this category at the apogee of the “near-blacks”. Chromaticness: Vividness is confirmed unambiguously. All the ranges contain many saturated colours, whichever year is considered, and whatever the brightness or tonality of the lipsticks. The 2 most restrained ranges are 2005 and 2010, years marked by dark colours. Conversely, 1995, which was also very dark, was full of contrasts, as it is one of the most vivid ranges. The 3 highest chromaticness ranges are 1980, 1990, and 1995, within which the most intense colours are Garance, Rouge de Minuit and Rouge Podium, respectively. From 1960 CHANEL sold 12 lipsticks, quite a broad choice compared to other cosmetic brands at the time. The colour offer exploded in the following years, reaching 55 shades in 2005. CHANEL has always explored chromatic areas, first by offering low chromaticness Beiges from 1970 the near-blacks from 1980. Bright reds have been a constant in the brand’s offer. Finally, 3 documents that summarize all hues present in the ranges were created. They are called Colour Time Lines. One is dedicated to Orangey Red lipsticks and the header is yellow. The second one is dedicated to Blue lipsticks and the third to Red lipsticks. In this publication, Blue and Red lipsticks all come together. The band that underlines the Colour Time Line is blue for the bluish lipsticks and red for the red ones. If all the ranges under study are considered, it can be seen that colour differences between the different lipsticks have reduced since 1980. The colours have become closer to one another in the colorimetric space, making it ever more difficult to distinguish one colour from another. The number of colours and their close juxtaposition sometimes makes it difficult to discriminate between them. 5. CONCLUSIONS Through the analysis of the in-house colour charts, the history of CHANEL lipstick colour from 1960 to 2015 was written. The main lines that CHANEL is drawing that are its own characteristics are the one following: For the hue, there is a predominance of orangey-red tones, a saturation of the reds and a shyness of blue tones. For the blackness, there is a huge majority of dark colours, including near-blacks. For the chromaticness, there is a constancy of saturated colours. There is a huge increase of the numbers of shades proposed to the customers starting from 12 shades in 1960 and growing up to 55 shades in 2005. And as already mentioned, the colours are very close one from each other in the colorimetric space and can be near similar excepted a pearlescent or satiny effect. FUNDING This research did not receive any specific grant from funding agencies in the public, commercial, or not-for-profit sector. CONFLICT OF INTEREST The authors declare that there is no conflict of interest with other people or organizations. BIBLIOGRAPHY Colour chart from 1980. CHANEL own property Colour chart from 1985. CHANEL own property Colour chart from 1990. CHANEL own property Colour chart from 1995. CHANEL own property Colour chart from 2000. CHANEL own property Colour chart from 2005. CHANEL own property Colour chart from 2010. CHANEL own property Colour chart from 2015. CHANEL own property Delay C. (1983) CHANEL solitaire. Paris: éd. Gallimard, p. 192 Galante P. (1972) Les Années CHANEL. Paris: éd. Paris- Match/Mercure de France, p.50 Mollard-Desfour A. (2001) Dictionnaire des mots et expressions de couleur : Le Rouge, Editions CNRS Mollard -Desfour A. (2002), Dictionnaire des mots et expressions de couleur : Le Rose, Editions CNRS Morand P. (1976) L’Allure de CHANEL. Paris: éd. Hermann, rééd. 1996, ill. Karl Lagerfeld, pp 55-57. NCS Color Atlas, 3rd edition, 1996 NCS Color Album, 2nd edition, 1995 NCScolor.com Perec G. (2003) Penser/Classer, Editions du Seuil Varichon A. (2011) « Noir et blanc dans les nuanciers : couple fertile ou célibataires endurcis? », Proceedings of Spring School from - C2RMF - UPMC - MNHN - CF, La 29 Cultura e Scienza del Colore - Color Culture and Science | 10 | 2018 | 21 - 29 The changing colour of CHANEL’s lipstick ranges from 1960 to 2015 ISSN 2384-9568 couleur des matériaux, Roussillon, mars, pp 115-118 Varichon A. (2011) Couleur et nuancier, territoires et fonctions, analyse poïétique de l’échantillonnage de la couleur par les manufactures, l’industrie et le commerce (mi-XIXème à nos jours), thèse de doctorat en arts appliqués NNT: 2011TOU20129