









































Griff-Sleven, Hanna. 2016. “Review of: The Food and Folklore Reader.”  
Digest: a Journal of Foodways and Culture 5:2: n. pag. © American Folklore Society 2017

Review of:

The Food and Folklore Reader
Edited by Lucy M. Long. New York: Bloomsbury Press, 2015. Pp. vii 
+ 467, introduction, index, appendix.

By: Hanna Griff-Sleven

Folklorist Lucy M. Long has curated a textbook to serve as an introduction to 
folklore methods and theory as they apply to food culture. It is an ambitious 
undertaking: this book contains forty articles spanning the discipline of 
folklore. Long has culled the archives of the field, using seminal works that 
define folklore as well as articles that explore more contemporary issues 
such as food security and culinary tourism. The strength of a good reader 
relies on the choice of articles and an understanding of why the articles 
were chosen. This reader succeeds the most with Long’s comprehensive 
introductions to each of the book’s five parts. She does an admirable 
job covering diverse food cultures with examples from the many ethnic 
identities within the United States, Canada, Australia, Sweden, Jewish 
and Arab cultures, and many more. Also included are helpful questions 
for discussion and suggestions for further reading in order to encourage 
students to explore these ideas in their own work and/or future projects. 
However, the book is a lengthy one, and if one is using it in print, it is a heavy 
one. There are simply too many articles, and not all of the older ones need 
to be reprinted since they are easily available elsewhere. Food culture is so 
popular these days, with food blogs and articles appearing daily, perhaps a 
more critical editing of Long’s selections would make this book stronger.

The Food and Folklore Reader is divided into five parts: “Foundations: 
History, Definitions, and Methodologies,” “Food in Groups, Community, 
and Identity,” “Food as Art, Symbol, and Ritual,” “Food as Communication, 
Performance, and Power,” and “Food in Public and Applied Folklore.” Long 
has written excellent introductions to both the subject and the subsequent 



Griff-Sleven, Hanna. 2016. “Review of: The Food and Folklore Reader.”  
Digest: a Journal of Foodways and Culture 5:2: n. pag. © American Folklore Society 2017

articles. The introductions are all followed by discussion questions, references, 
and suggestions for further readings. There is an appendix of sources and a 
thorough index as well. Because this reader was intended to introduce the 
reader to the many viewpoints and ways to study food, Long excerpted many 
of the articles in order to include so many. As a foodie reader, I found this 
disconcerting and disappointing: I wanted the whole article there. I think this 
is one of the downfalls of such ambition. Because of the book’s heft as well, 
I would have liked to see a selection of half of the forty essays that included 
complete versions of her favorites and reference notes for the others.

In Part I, “Foundations: History, Definitions, and Methodologies,” Long 
opens with Don Yoder’s 1972 article, “Folk Cookery.” Re-reading this 
article reminded me that he was the one to suggest the use of the word 
“foodways” in order to include all the many different ways food should 
be studied, setting the course for food studies in the United States. 

Part II, “Food in Groups, Community, and Identity,” not surprisingly, is very 
diverse as it looks at folk groups and identity. “Continuity and Adaptation 
in Arab American Foodways,” by William and Yvonne Lockwood, was 
included in its entirety and was full of rich ethnographic detail about the 
Arab-American community’s foods and the changes they have undergone 
in various contexts, both public and private. The culinary glossary and rich 
ethnographic documentation made me want to jump on a plane, call the 
Lockwoods, and go shopping in the markets and eat my way through the 
neighborhoods. As a mind bender, I enjoyed Jay Mechling’s “Boy Scouts 
and the Manly Art of Cooking.” His analysis explores how the Boy Scouts 
of America take the traditionally feminine domestic field of cooking and 
other nurturing tasks and present these skill sets as masculine. Another 
well-written article is Marcie Cohen Ferris’s “Feeding the Jewish Soul 
in the Delta Diaspora,” a description of her Jewish family’s foodways in 
Arkansas and how they used their ethnic identity to negotiate their religious 
and regional identity. She is a beautiful writer and this article is a must for 
anyone who wants to look at foodways through family stories and identity.

Part III, “Food as Art, Symbol, and Ritual,” looks at folk traditions and food 
in many different ways. Annie Hauck Lawson and Sean Galvin write about 



Griff-Sleven, Hanna. 2016. “Review of: The Food and Folklore Reader.”  
Digest: a Journal of Foodways and Culture 5:2: n. pag. © American Folklore Society 2017

their fieldwork with five different ethnic bread makers in Brooklyn, New 
York. They did a remarkable job of addressing the interplay between baking 
as an art versus baking as a business and the ways religious and cultural 
values are encouraged through bread making. They captured the diversity 
of Brooklyn through the commonality of bread and a study like this would 
be a helpful article in a world where diversity appears to be a dirty word.

Long’s own article, “Green Bean Casserole and Midwestern Identity: A Regional 
Foodways Aesthetic and Ethos,” is a good read on how mass produced recipes 
become meaningful and has the bonus of including the original recipe. 
This also would be helpful in a class where the exotic might very well be 
the white Caucasians who are wondering where their folklore is situated.

Barbara Kirshenblatt-Gimblett’s article, “Playing to the Senses: 
Food as Performance Medium,” looks at the possibilities and 
constraints of the convergence of food and performance by examining 
how food as art and food in everyday life intersect. It is a very 
accessible and creative lens to look at folklore in context.

Part IV, “Food as Communication, Performance, and Power,” is perhaps 
one of the most thought provoking as the authors chosen bring up 
many sensitive issues through food. Janet Theophano’s “‘I Gave Him 
Cake’: An Interpretation of Two Italian-American Weddings,” examines 
two weddings in one family and how the choice of the menu for each 
highlights the importance of understanding the context of any situation 
(in this case, how the family felt about the choice of the grooms). 

Perhaps one of the more disturbing articles I have ever read is Luanne 
Roth’s “Beyond Communitas: Cinematic Food Events and the Negotiation of 
Power, Belonging and Exclusion.” She examines the way mainstream films 
use foodways as metaphors for representing groups as different, foreign, or 
distasteful. This article was only an excerpt and focused mostly on the violence 
in the film American History X. Roth alluded to her examination of food in 
My Big Fat Greek Wedding and Along Came Polly and I liked the contrast of 
humor with her insightful yet visceral analysis of American History X. Thus 
it was a relief and pleasure to read Diane Tye’s article, “‘A Fruitcake Always 
makes Me Think of Grandma’: Food and Memory in L.M. Montgomery’s 



Griff-Sleven, Hanna. 2016. “Review of: The Food and Folklore Reader.”  
Digest: a Journal of Foodways and Culture 5:2: n. pag. © American Folklore Society 2017

Creation of Female Landscapes.” Tye examines food in a literary context 
and how food descriptions can evoke a sense of place and passing of time.

Part V, “Food in Public and Applied Folklore,” is perhaps the weakest 
section. There are too few articles about foodways and festivals and yet the 
public arena of festivals and food blogs is where the student of folklore and 
food usually first comes in contact with food. It is also a disservice to the 
reader that no photographs were included. Food and its preparation are 
such visual genres, I am sure many of the authors have documented their 
work and such documentation in this chapter would have been helpful.

I found two essays helpful. “No Food or Drink in the Museum?: The Challenges 
of Edible Artifacts,” by Sarah Conrad Gothie, raises interesting questions 
as she looks at still life paintings, Julia Child’s kitchen, and how these give 
way to complicated issues of experiencing food in and out of context. This 
article would be of great use in a classroom, having students reconsider 
classic paintings of food, reconstructed kitchens, and how museums 
interpret such things. Nomvula Mashoai Cook and Betty Belanus’s article, 
“A Taste of Home: African Immigrant Foodways,” was originally in the 1997 
Program book for the Smithsonian Folklife Festival. This is a beautifully 
written article that uses folklore theory as it describes the role of African 
restaurants in establishing continuity in traditional celebrations and food. 

Overall this anthology is good and the bibliographies and other references 
are excellent. Long knows the world of food and foodways. Yet this might 
be the fault in the book. On the one hand, fuller versions of a smaller 
selection of Long’s favorites may have sufficed. On the other, a two-volume 
format could have permitted full versions of the entire selection. As an 
adjunct professor whose time is limited, I would have appreciated having 
everything in one place instead of having to hunt down full versions of 
the articles elsewhere. All in all, however, Long did an admirable job of 
collecting these articles on how to study the vast and ever growing world 
of food and culture chiefly from Folklore’s foodways perspectives.

 


