








































< Hangmind, Xu. “Gyoza: A Dumpling Innovation” 
Digest: a Journal of Foodways and Culture 4:1 (2015): n. pag.> © American Folklore Society 2015

Gyoza: A Dumpling Innovation

By: Xu Hangming

Boiled dumplings, called Jiao-zi in Chinese, are a traditional food in northern China but 
in Japan people commonly enjoy grilled dumplings, called Gyoza. Differences between 
these two kinds of dumplings exist not only in their preparation methods, but also 
in other aspects. Japanese style Gyoza are the re-definition of Chinese dumplings, a 
creative interpretation of Jiao-zi. Gyoza are an example of Japanese innovation.

Shock upon Arrival in Japan

When I first arrived in Japan from China as a foreign student, I invited a Japanese 
friend to my house for a meal. Before her arrival, I thought for a while what kind of 
Chinese food to prepare. I decided on handmade boiled dumplings. Dumplings are a 
vital part of Chinese home cooking, with people often preparing and cooking them 
together. Families often work together making the filling and dumpling skins, and then 
assembling each dumpling. Making, eating, talking – it is a very happy family time. 
Although the preparation for handmade dumplings is quite time-consuming, I thought it 
was the perfect cuisine to express my gratitude and to share with my Japanese friend.

I began to consider the filling. I wasn’t sure if fillings popular in China would also be 
appreciated by Japanese eaters. I had just come to Japan and my experience with 
the taste of Japanese food was not extensive. After consideration, I decided that 
what would be the best for my guest, if I did not know her likes, would be what I 
found most delicious. So, I selected my favorite: a mix of chopped leeks and fried 
eggs. It seemed very simple, but with the distinctive smell of the leeks, and the 
pleasant contrast between the fresh green leeks and the yellow of the eggs, I became 
confident with my choice. Without a doubt, these dumplings would be accepted.

The day arrived and my friend visited my home. We made dumplings together, 
starting by preparing the dough for the dumplings’ skin. After about one hour, the 
dumplings were boiled, and we began to eat. When my friend tried our dumplings 
I was sure she would say that the filling was delicious. However, to my surprise her 



< Hangmind, Xu. “Gyoza: A Dumpling Innovation” 
Digest: a Journal of Foodways and Culture 4:1 (2015): n. pag.> © American Folklore Society 2015

comment was, “The skin. This skin is so delicious.” I still remember her comment. I 
was stunned to hear it, and am surprised when I think of it even now. Why was she 
so taken with the skin? Why not the filling of crisp leeks and creamy eggs? For me, 
the dumplings’ skin was just ordinary, not the tasty treat of the dumpling. At that 
time I really could not understand my friend’s feeling. However, I did not question 
her response. We enjoyed our meal of dumplings and later she went home. But, 
her fascination with the skin became a riddle for me that lasted a long time.

Ten Years Later, The Riddle is Understood

Ten years have passed since that meal with my Japanese friend, and since then I 
have eaten many plates of Japanese Gyoza. And, I think I have finally solved the 
riddle of my friend’s fascination with the dumpling skin that we made. Gyoza in 
Japan are usually pan fried and not boiled so the skin of Gyoza is crisp, whereas 
the skin of boiled dumplings is sticky. When my friend first ate handmade boiled 
dumplings at my home, she was struck by the new texture of boiled dumplings.

As for me, conversely, during the first few years of living in Japan, I did not have much 
interest in Gyoza. To be honest, I was convinced that they would not be so delicious. To 
tell you the truth, there are pan-fried dumplings in China which are similar to Gyoza, such 
as “guotie/potstickers.” In addition, in China, there is a habit of eating leftover boiled 
dumplings the next day, pan-fried in oil. The common feature of them is that the skin is 
thick. The fried skin does taste good and many Chinese people feel that the texture after 
frying is inferior to the texture of boiled dumplings, so they prefer their dumplings boiled.

However, I have now lived in Japan for many years, and have gradually come to realize that 
Gyoza are delicious on their own and shouldn’t be compared to boiled dumplings. I like the 
crisp texture of the pan fried skin and the savory flavor of the filling that becomes even 
more delicious after the skin is fried. In fact, Gyoza have become one of my favorite foods.

Gyoza, An Innovative Food from Dumplings

Gyoza are very different from boiled dumplings even though the shape of them is the 
same. Not only the preparation and the texture, but also the function is very different. 
In China, dumplings are a meal and usually each person eats more than 20 pieces. In 
contrast, Gyoza are a kind of accompanying dish and only several pieces per person 
are served at a meal. Therefore, Gyoza are not an extension of boiled dumplings but 



< Hangmind, Xu. “Gyoza: A Dumpling Innovation” 
Digest: a Journal of Foodways and Culture 4:1 (2015): n. pag.> © American Folklore Society 2015

rather a redefinition of the boiled dumpling and an expression of Japanese innovation. 

Why was it invented in Japan and not China? Most Chinese are so accustomed 
to boiled dumplings that they are not able to accept the idea of Gyoza as being 
equal. But in Japan, after boiled dumplings were introduced from China, the food 
evolved under the influence of Japanese food culture. In Japan, fried food, such 
as tempura, is popular, so pan frying dumplings did not seem like such a strange 
idea and these types of dumplings were accepted and grew in popularity.

Gyoza: From Japan to the World

Gyoza took on a different form in Japan and Gyoza culture has been well 
established there. Now Gyoza culture is not limited to Japan, but is accepted 
in other countries. In China, Gyoza are now appearing on menus in Japanese 
restaurants and there unique taste has been accepted by some Chinese people 
(See Figure 1). In larger cities in the United States, frozen Gyoza are sold in some 
supermarket chains, with package designs that refer to Gyoza, not Jiao-zi and 
dumplings (See Figure 2). And, just last year, a “Gyoza BAR” opened in Paris (See 
Figure 3). It has a very simple menu, Gyoza and beer, but it is always full of people. 
Gyoza are gradually becoming popular beyond the borders of Japan. In the near 
future, Gyoza may be offered next to hot dogs on menus in baseball stadiums in 
the USA, with a glass of Chianti in Italy, or in a pub in Oxford, England…I believe 
that Gyoza will become a global food one day just like Sushi and Ramen.  

Gyoza Machine

As Gyoza become more and more popular around the world, the need for 
high quality, automated Gyoza making machines has increased. Fortunately, 
Gyoza making machines and pan-fried machines have been invented and are 
being produced in Japan. According to my investigations, there are more 
than one thousand patents for Gyoza machines in Japan. These machines 
produce Gyoza with a speed that cannot be matched by human hands, 
and with a taste and texture quality close to handmade. Not surprisingly 
,the international market for these Gyoza machines is growing rapidly.

The Gyoza Bar in Paris, uses a small half-automatic Gyoza machine (See Figure 4) made 
by TOA industry, located in Hamamatsu city, a famous Gyoza city in Japan, where 



< Hangmind, Xu. “Gyoza: A Dumpling Innovation” 
Digest: a Journal of Foodways and Culture 4:1 (2015): n. pag.> © American Folklore Society 2015

the average annual Gyoza consumption is the highest in Japan. These machines are 
enabling the growth of Gyoza culture. Japan food culture and Japan technology are 
connected; Japanese innovation, the combination of culture and technology, is at work.

Boiled Dumplings and Gyoza in my House Now

After discovering the delicious texture of Gyoza, now I enjoy making Gyoza in my 
home. I still like to eat boiled dumplings, so my family always makes both Jiao-zi (See 
Figure 5) and Gyoza (See Figure 6). The fillings are the same, the skins are different, 
but both of them are delicious. I have named them “China-Japan Friendship Food.”

Last year, my Japanese friend who said, “The skin is delicious,” came to my home 
again after about ten years because I moved to Osaka from Tokyo. I invited her to my 
home again and we made both boiled dumplings and Gyoza this time. They reminded 
us of ten years ago when he came to my home and the memory is also “delicious.”

Thanks to boiled dumplings and Gyoza, we can enjoy two kinds 
of dumplings, and the two cultures they embody.

 

Figure 1 
Restaurant menu in Beijing

Figure 2 
Supermarket in Los Angeles

Figure 3 
Gyoza Bar in Paris



< Hangmind, Xu. “Gyoza: A Dumpling Innovation” 
Digest: a Journal of Foodways and Culture 4:1 (2015): n. pag.> © American Folklore Society 2015

 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Figure 4 
Gyoza machine

Figure 5 
Handmade boiled dumplings

Figure 6 
Handmade Gyoza


