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Book Review 
 
Review of:  
The Truth about Baked Beans: An Edible History of New England Meg Muckenhoupt, 
New York: New York University Press, 2020. Pp. 345, introduction, conclusion, 
acknowledgments, notes, index, about the author.  
 
Review By: Ruzhica Samokovlija Baruh  
 
Meg Muckenhoupt’s latest, The Truth about Baked Beans: An Edible History of New 
England, takes the readers on a historical and culinary journey that challenges the 
longstanding myths and realities surrounding some of New England’s most iconic foods 
—baked beans, brown bread, clams, cod and lobsters, cornbread, Vermont cheese, 
apples, cranberries, maple syrup, pies, and Yankee pot roast. The truth behind their 
origin, as Muckenhoupt suggests, lies at the crossroads of skillfully crafted Victorian 
ideals, the exclusion of immigrant culinary traditions, and the profound transformations 
brought about by the region’s evolving geography and economy (4). Through meticulous 
research and insightful storytelling, Muckenhoupt dismantles the myths to unveil a 
more accurate, and inclusive narrative of New England’s food.  
 
Before delving into the histories and traditions of New England’s food, Muckenhoupt 
takes a moment to set the record straight regarding “who was(is) who” in this diverse 
region. In contrast to the oversimplified portrayal of New England as solely the domain 
of “Stoic Pilgrims, passionate Minutemen, and thrifty Yankee farmers,” she astutely 
reminds us that the region’s history is far more complex (5). From the initial encounters 
between the Eastern Woodlands People and the Yankees, to the invaluable knowledge of 
Irish women and African American cooks, and ethnic dishes like Fall River pierogi, 
Portuguese caldo verde, and Puerto Rican rice and beans, Muckenhoupt paints a picture 
of New England as a dynamic melting pot. Yet, amidst this remarkable diversity, she 
rightly points out that many of these contributions remained underrepresented in local 
cookbooks (45-46). Some iconic dishes, such as Boston baked beans, have faced even 
greater injustices, with their origins mistakenly attributed to unspecified Native 
American nations. In chapter two, she asserts the following “Even though there is ample 
evidence that the dish was concocted after the Civil War, the potential influence of 
immigrants (in this case French Canadians) and industrial food processing (canneries) 
has been consistently downplayed or altogether ignored” (48).  
 
In chapter three, Muckenhoupt directs us from misconceptions to limitations, shedding 
light on the five constraints that hindered the development of New England cuisine in 
the late 18th century: Urbanization and industrialization, the influence of the “New 
England Kitchen” exhibits, social reformers focused on providing cheap food for the 
poor, the Colonial Revival, and the relationship between New England elites and their 
cooks [64]. While on the surface, these limitations may seem straightforward, the 
underlying motivations were fueled by far more damaging factors, such as anti-
immigration sentiments, racism, gender inequality, and employment disparities. One 
could argue that the most detrimental was the influence of The Colonial Revival 
movement. As Muckenhoupt points out, this movement, while idealizing a nostalgic 
vision of early New England cuisine, obscured its most destructive facet through a 
deliberate exclusion of non-white ethnic foods from its narrative “A small subset of New 



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England foods – baked beans, pies, brown bread, boiled dinner – were charged with 
Yankee virtue.” [78] This cultural whitewashing primarily came at the expense of Irish 
immigrant women who often assumed roles as cooks and maids. As Muckenhoupt 
illustrates, the media perpetuated harmful stereotypes about these women, ridiculing 
their culinary skills and competence and depicting them as awful Irish maids, “who 
couldn’t soft-boil an egg, served ‘undressed tomatoes’ in their underwear, and burnt and 
ruined anything they touched” [80]. 
 
Issues of harmful prejudices and exclusions are perversive in chapter four as well, 
where Muckenhoupt examines the historical decline of corn-based foods in New 
England. One of the key aspects highlighted is the early colonists’ preference for wheat 
over corn. This preference was rooted in wheat’s association with the upper class in 
England, showcasing how cultural biases influenced food choices even in the New 
World. Moreover, corn carried a stigma among the colonists, being seen as a grain 
tainted by primitiveness and uncertainty “Corn was also a strange new plant eaten by 
Indians, the unfamiliar people the colonists were displacing, killing, and infecting with 
smallpox” (100). By the 1840s, corn faced yet another stigma in New England, this time 
associated with slavery “Cornmeal was generally the only grain given to southern 
slaves” (109). The combination of these cultural discriminations, along with climate 
change, and agricultural practices, posed serious challenges to the survival of corn-
based foods in the region. However, the story of New England’s corn takes an interesting 
turn. Towards the late 19th and early 20th century, influenced by immigrant 
communities, corn-based dishes began to make a comeback (114). As Muckenhoupt 
observes, cornmeal could once again regain popularity in New England, thanks to the 
influence of Latino immigrant communities “If ‘New England’ cookbooks and food 
writers become more open to the foods actually eaten by today’s New England 
residents, perhaps cornmeal will become a northern food once again” (120). This 
circular story of New England’s corn prompts us to contemplate not just what has 
occurred but rather the possibilities of how and to what extent the region’s cuisine 
might have transformed, had corn been wholeheartedly embraced from the beginning. 
 
A more accurate depiction of New England’s history unfolds during the intermission, 
titled “Recipes.” Within this interlude, Muckenhoupt’s mission not only becomes evident 
but also takes on a deeply noble dimension: to present an all-encompassing and 
accurate portrait of New England’s edible history through a collection of recipes. This 
involves acknowledging both the well-known and less-celebrated individuals, groups, 
and communities that have played pivotal roles in shaping the region’s culinary heritage.  
 
In chapter five, Muckenhoupt takes us from land to sea, illustrating how New England’s 
iconic seafood, such as cod, chowder, and lobster, though deeply ingrained into the 
region’s identity, sees limited consumption among locals today (165). Muckenhoupt 
attributes this shifts not solely to changes in fishing practices, habitat management, and 
global market dynamics, but also to the fervent idealization of the archetypal “Stalwart, 
grizzled, salty New England fisherman!” (208). The romanticized and heroic portrayal of 
fishermen in New England culture (209), coupled with the influence of family-owned 
fishing enterprises (212-213), significantly obstructed the implementation of 
sustainable fishing regulations, consequently giving rise to processed seafood 
alternatives like fish sticks. In this dire climate, one notable exception, as observed by 
Muckenhoupt, is the lobster industry in Maine “Lobsters are thriving, but the cod catch 



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has collapsed to 5 percent of early twentieth-century levels. Whether New Englanders 
will enjoy these iconic seafoods 50 years from now may depend more on today’s 
fishermen than on tomorrow’s eaters” (199). 
 
Today, many consumers rarely ponder over the origin behind their favorite dishes. Yet, 
Muckenhoupt’s sixth chapter reminds us that the story about the rediscovery and 
transformation of New England’s Maple syrup, cranberries, and apples, is indeed worth 
telling. Some of these transformations are unavoidable, driven by market forces (226) 
and harsh climate conditions (244). However, others, such as the enduring myth of 
“Johnny Appleseed,” serve as a poignant reminder that food is more than mere 
sustenance; it has always been an integral part of New England’s identity politics, past 
and present. As Muckenhoupt aptly puts it, “Instead of a colonizer roaming a ravaged 
landscape, he’s a faithful, benevolent seed planter, a Pomona of the prairie – He didn’t 
try to actually change how society worked by, say, joining the abolitionists or unionizing 
farmworkers” (252). In the final chapter, we glimpse the challenges faced by farmers 
even without Chapman’s assistance. Cheesemakers, adopting European techniques and 
marketing strategies to craft and sell locally made, premium cheeses, sometimes find 
themselves at odds with traditional values and identities “They are practitioners of an 
extractive industry, akin to oilmen and lumberjacks, exploiting local resources to 
support cuisine favored by wealthier individuals residing far from these lands” (260). 
 
In The Truth about Baked Beans, readers embark on a thought-provoking and 
enlightening journey through the history of New England’s food, leaving them with a 
newfound appreciation for its complexity and potential for growth. Moreover, it sparks 
discussions about the future of New England’s cuisine, as it encourages a more inclusive 
and open-minded approach to embracing the diverse influences that have shaped it. 
Muckenhoupt’s rigorous approach, coupled with occasional sardonic and witty 
commentary, infuses a breath of fresh air into these tumultuous times. Nevertheless, the 
book does have its shortcomings, notably the absence of visual aids, and the potential 
for overwhelming readers with its detailed content. In its entirety, The Truth about 
Baked Beans is a formidable work appealing to scholars and readers from a wide array 
of backgrounds and interests, destined to stand the test of time.  
 
 
 


