































 
 

 
European Journal of Social Impact and Circular Economy - ISSN: 2704-9906  
DOI: 10.13135/2704-9906/10383 Published by University of Turin http://www.ojs.unito.it/index.php/ejsice/index 
EJSICE content is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License   

36 

Sustainable fashion in the circular economy paradigm: 

Reduce, reuse and recycle as the new sustainable corporate 

strategy 
 

Patrizia Gazzola1, Roberta Rita Pezzetti2, Stefano Amelio3* 

 

1 University of Insubria, Department of Economics, Via Monte Generoso 71, 21100, Varese, Italy 

patrizia.gazzola@uninsubria.it 
ORCID  https://orcid.org/0000-0003-2521-4892 

 

2 University of Insubria, Department of Economics, Via Monte Generoso 71, 21100, Varese, Italy 

robertarita.pezzetti@uninsubria.it 
ORCID  https://orcid.org/0000-0001-8266-8503 

 

3 University of Insubria, Department of Economics, Via Monte Generoso 71, 21100, Varese, Italy 

stefano.amelio@uninsubria.it 
ORCID  https://orcid.org/0000-0002-6472-365X 

* Contact Author 
 

Received: 29/05/2024 

Accepted for publication: 26/08/2024 

Published: 28/08/2024 
 

Abstract

The aim of this paper is to analyse emerging trends in the fashion industry, focusing on the growing role the circular economy 

is playing in introducing a new business paradigm based on the so-called "3 Rs" principle: reduce, reuse and recycle. Six 

interesting case studies are presented; three focus on fashion companies (Rifò, Rapanui and Cingomma) that base their business 

model on this circular economy principle, while the other three relate to companies (Orange Fiber, Ananas Anam, Due di Latte) 

using sustainable materials to produce fashion items. The careful selection of raw materials and the application of technological 

innovation in the production system allow companies to implement new sustainable approaches to production, resulting in two 

critical outcomes: recycled fashion products that can be reintegrated into the environment and the reuse of products that can be 

revalued without rather than wasted. 
 

Keywords: Fashion Industry, Sustainability, Circular Economy, Product Innovation, Business Models, Corporate Strategy

mailto:patrizia.gazzola@uninsubria.it
https://orcid.org/0000-0003-2521-4892
mailto:robertarita.pezzetti@uninsubria.it
https://orcid.org/0000-0001-8266-8503
mailto:stefano.amelio@uninsubria.it


 

 37 

1. Introduction 

The fashion industry, one of the worst polluters in the world with multiple environmental impacts (Brand-Correa and 

Steinberger, 2022), is facing a radical transformation. Global demographic and digitalisation growth, resource scarcity and 

climate change acceleration are challenging companies both to produce sustainable fashion products and to innovate their 

business models based on the circular economy paradigm (Abdelmeguid et al., 2022; D'Adamo et al., 2022; Galatti and 

Baruque-Ramos, 2022) in order to remain competitive and profitable in the long run (Hahn and Figge, 2011). Consumers 

around the world are increasingly aware that the fashion industry largely has a significant adverse impact on the environment, 

as a result of both the industry's complex supply chain and the shift towards the fast fashion paradigm (Vătămănescu et al., 

2021). The scandals that have occurred over the years in the fashion sector, in particular linked to the unregulated intensive use 

of resources or the exploitation of animals, have led to the acquisition of greater awareness of the unsustainability of a model 

like the current one. Fast fashion giants often come under scrutiny for the exploitation of workers throughout the entire 

production chain and for non-existent environmental policies (the investigation - 'Untold: Inside the Shein Machine' - is recent 

and has impressed the world). But even over the years there has been no shortage of reports of animal exploitation (as in the 

documentary 'Slay'). The Moncler case is emblematic. 

According to recent research conducted by BOF McKinsey (2021), today's consumers are more ethically minded, and they are 

asking to companies to build their businesses with a conscience. Companies are also facing pressure from consumers to take 

actions, but the situation is not clear, as there is not an agreed-upon definition of what is sustainable, natural or clean. 

Nevertheless, technological advancement, marked by the continuous impulse to innovate products and the increase in 

applications for new sustainable fibres (Nayak et al., 2023), are paving the way to a more sustainable future for fashion.  

The importance of the change in strategy is also emphasised by the European Union, which in recent years has approved a 

series of regulatory interventions aimed at increasing the sustainability of economic activities and encouraging the adoption of 

circular economy practices, as opposed to the traditional linear economy model. In particular, as pointed out by a study by the 

European Parliament (2023), 2.1 billion tonnes of waste are produced in the EU every year, but despite this, the way in which 

this waste is managed has improved: a decrease in the use of landfills has led to an increase in recycling and composting, i.e. a 

gradual transition towards the circular economy. While recent European regulations (e.g. the Green Taxonomy, CSRD) have 

fostered the development of sustainable practices, the European Parliament in recent years has passed a number of measures to 

realise the circular economy (among others, a resolution on the new action plan for the circular economy in 2021 and the 

revision of the EU regulations on packaging and packaging waste in 2023). In 2020, the European Commission presented the 

action plan for a new circular economy in which special attention was paid to the textile sector, a high impact sector, where 

textile purchases in the EU in 2017 generated approximately 654 kg of CO2 emissions per person (European Environment 

Agency, 2019). Two years later it then published the first package of measures to accelerate the transition to a circular economy. 

All this in a global context in which attention to the environment has become central in strategies, one only has to think of the 

UN Millennium Development Goals 2000 (15 MDGs) or the UN Sustainable Development Goals (17 SDGs). The circular 

economy is also very important in Italy, which is the European leader in waste recovery and recycling and in the circular 

economy, having the highest percentage of recycling on all waste equal to 79%, a productivity of resource use and a circularity 

rate of material in the economy higher than the European average (Symbola Foundation, 2021). 

Fashion companies today are pressed by the need to invest in new technologies (Kemp et al., 2005) and to reinvent their 

manufacturing processes in order to reduce the environmental impact of their activities and to increase safety for consumers. 

At the same time, fashion companies increasingly focus on sustainability by investing in both product and process innovation 



 
 

 
European Journal of Social Impact and Circular Economy - ISSN: 2704-9906  
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38 

with the aim of creating fashion products that respect the environment and respond to purchase choices increasingly driven by 

ethical and emotional motivations. In this context, the concept of eco-fashion, understood as an approach oriented to employing 

best practices to attain environmental sustainability and to address social responsibilities, has spread in recent years. These 

needs have led to the development of new business strategies geared towards sustainability. Sustainability issues in the fashion 

industry are the result of the balanced integration of economic, social and environmental performance (Pedersen, Earley and 

Andersen, 2019). Circular fashion (Peleg Mizrachi and Tal, 2022; Shou and Domenech, 2022; Ki, Chong and Ha‐Brookshire, 

2020) represents the implementation of sustainability principles within the corporate strategy. According to Claxton and Kent 

(2020), the fashion industry implements sustainability strategies mainly related to the choice of materials and production steps 

recommended by the circular design approach. Lately, however, research has identified other aspects of the life cycle, such as 

"design for durability or longevity, recycling, zero-waste approaches and disassembly" (Claxton and Kent, p. 8, 2020). The 

circular economy in the fashion industry is an area of research that has been investigated in the literature but has several 

significant gaps. Most studies focus on specific aspects, such as material recycling or sustainable production, without 

considering the interconnectedness between the different phases of the product life cycle (Geissdoerfer et al., 2017). The current 

literature often does not adequately consider the role of emerging technologies and emerging paradigms in facilitating the 

transition to the circular economy (Minunno et al., 2020). Finally, there is limited study of the social implications of the circular 

economy in the fashion industry, especially in terms of its impact on working conditions and social justice (Henry et al., 2020). 

These gaps highlight the need for alternative methodological approaches to fill existing gaps. 

Based on these premises, the following research question was developed: 

RQ1) How are fashion companies innovating their business model in relation to circular economy principles? 

These new practices have resulted in the fashion industry applying the so-called "three Rs paradigm" (Recycle, Reuse and 

Reduce) as a way to improve the quality of life for both environments and people by paying increasing attention to sustainability 

and corporate social responsibility (Zbuchea, Petropoulos and Partyka, 2018).  

For this reason, the second research question investigated is as follows: 

RQ2) What are the positive consequences of fashion companies applying the three Rs paradigm? 

This paper analyses emerging trends in the fashion industry, focusing on the growing role the circular economy is playing in 

introducing a new business paradigm based on the so-called "three Rs" principle: reduce, reuse and recycle. In particular, the 

paper develops the notion of corporate sustainability in the fashion industry in order to highlight sustainable issues faced by 

companies in the market. The study explores how some companies have adopted and developed this new business paradigm, 

considered a best practice in the fashion industry, and analyses the outcomes from a dual perspective: consumer perspective 

and quality of life perspective. 

The structure of the paper is as follows: the introductory paragraph is followed by a review of relevant literature (circular 

economy in the fashion industry, the three Rs paradigm, SDG 12). This is followed by an explanation of the methodology and 

the analysis of six case studies. The selected case studies aim to show how sustainability represents a critical driver of growth 



 
 

 
European Journal of Social Impact and Circular Economy - ISSN: 2704-9906  
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39 

for fashion companies and a strategic tool to improve the quality of life (Papagiannis et al., 2018). The paper concludes by 

answering the two research questions based on the outcome of the case study analyses. 

 

2. Literature review 

2.1 Circular Economy in the Fashion Sector and the 3 Rs Principle 

The circular economy aims to overcome the linear model of production and consumption (Camilleri, 2018; Merli, Preziosi and 

Acampora, 2018). Companies are increasingly adopting innovative business models (Colombi and D'Itria, 2023) inspired by 

sustainability as a main driver for enhancing their long-lasting competitiveness (Gazzola, 2018; Gazzola et al., 2019). Fashion, 

one of the most polluting sectors of the economy (Sehnem et al., 2024), is a resource-intensive industry, where opportunities 

to reduce environmental impact and innovate business models abound (Todeschini et al., 2017; Pollifroni, 2012) but only with 

the total involvement of stakeholders along the entire value chain (Mahanty and Domenech, 2024). According to Niinimäki 

(2017), building a truly circular economic system requires a new type of system and radical innovations, as well as ten 

challenges that management must face to deal with the transition from linear to circular economy (Abdelmeguid, Afy-Shararah 

and Salonitis, 2024). 

Today's fashion companies are being called upon to take up the challenge of meeting consumers' needs without compromising 

the quality of both environment and life by progressively reducing their ecological impact and resource intensity in line with 

Earth's estimated carrying capacity (DeSimone and Popoff, 2000). The fashion industry is not yet comparable to a circular 

system, characterised by materials that generate 'additional value' and not 'additional wastes'. However, many pioneering 

companies are exploring the potential related to the application of circular models in fashion. In line with these trends, 

companies in the fashion sector are increasingly interested in the use of recycled fibres, yarns, and fabrics in the development 

and production of new products (Papamichael et al., 2023). Unfortunately, it's a slow transition because of regulations, logistics, 

technical and economic resources and appropriate infrastructures. 

The ‘CEO’s Fashion Agenda’ is an international initiative with the ultimate goal of creating durable products that encourage 

the disassembly of fibres and the creation of recyclable garments. On the other hand, several initiatives have been launched to 

promote the collection of used garments among retailers. To achieve their goals, leading fashion companies should collaborate 

with governments to develop circular systems (Chalmer et al., 2018). Recycled textile materials can be obtained through two 

processes: through the supply chain and through post-consumer collection methods (Leonas, 2017). 

For a 34-month period, Hvass and Pedersen (2019) examined a global fashion brand that launched a new in-store product recall 

initiative. The authors identified emerging challenges and sustainable solutions arising from the integration of circular economy 

solutions within existing business models. On the one hand, fashion companies are increasingly required to incorporate the 

circular economy paradigm in their business strategies; on the other hand, consumers expectations need to be carefully analysed 

to better understand how sustainability affects both consumer perceptions and behaviour. Hu et al. (2019) identified the drivers 

of participation and non-participation in the circular economy, as well as the emergence of potentially new circular economy 



 
 

 
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40 

micro-entrepreneur. This business model, which is likely to grow in the future, is based on consumers who easily access 

consumption (Battle, Ryding and Henninger, 2018). 

In the world of fashion, in recent years, the three Rs have assumed increased importance in driving companies' strategies, both 

at corporate and business level, with an important impact on the path to innovation (Dymchenko et al., 2021). Savings in fashion 

manufacturing processes are based on energy efficiency, derived from the possibility of containing production costs and 

reducing the consumption of water required to process raw materials. The reuse principle refers to reusing a product by 

extending its life cycle; this allows the product to be revitalised and reintroduced into the market, a practice that allows 

companies to reduce waste and optimise production processes while responding to a growing market demand for conscious 

purchasing (Papagiannis et al., 2021). The practice of reuse in the fashion market follows the trend to produce customised items 

(i.e. craftsmanship and manual workmanship). An obvious virtuous example in the textile industry is the transformation of 

polyethylene terephthalate containers into continuous filaments that can be used in garments (Pavione and Pezzetti, 2015). 

Intervening in all phases of the value chain is important to ensure sustainability in the fashion industry (Gazzola, Pavione, and 

Pezzetti, 2017): 

"- provision of raw materials (low ecological impact, deriving from recycling, renewable sources or fair-trade initiatives); 

- production (reusing and reducing water resources, reducing energy consumption in the manufacturing processes, adopting 

technologies funded on ecological principles, recycling discards and excess production, etc); 

- logistics (rationalising transportation flow, using vehicles with low impact, reducing packaging or use recycling packaging); 

- promotion (eco-compatible preparation, furnishings etc., forms of communication and encouraging reduced environmental 

impact); 

- end of life (reuse, recycling, degree of biodegradability)". 

The different combinations of the three Rs could be considered a driver of enhanced differentiation in both the market 

andbusiness models, where sustainability is becoming critical to a company's long-lasting competitiveness , improving brand 

image, and building a solid market reputation. 

As highlighted in the literature, there are barriers and opportunities for the implementation of circular economy principles in 

the different sectors (Kirchherr et al., 2018) and in particular in the fashion industry (Sehnem et al., 2024; Dissanayake and 

Weerasinghe, 2021). Among the main barriers identified, is the high fragmentation of the value chain (Mishra, Jain and 

Malhotra, 2021). Furthermore, the perceived poor quality of recycled materials (Jia et al., 2020), the lack of company policies 

oriented towards sustainability and the low knowledge of sustainability-related issues among workers prevent the shift towards 

the circular economy. One of the main problems identified is the absence (or poor presence) of teaching sustainability practices 

within political pedagogical projects, both at a generalist level and in Fashion Design courses (Sehnem et al., 2024). The 

implementation of the principles of the circular economy, despite the existing barriers, would make it possible to obtain a series 

of positive results, such as for example the protection of biodiversity, savings in the use of resources, the reduction of 

environmental impacts, but also an increase productivity of the territory, an improvement of working conditions and the 

reduction of company costs. 



 
 

 
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2.2 SDG 12: Responsible Consumption and Production 

In September 2015, the governments of the 193 United Nations member countries signed the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable 

Development Action Program. It encompasses 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). Each goal is interdependent and 

wide-ranging. Moreover, each goal is linked to a list of tangible results that are measurable with indicators (Colglazier, 2015).  

The circular economy is a key strategy for achieving the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). The link 

between the circular economy and the SDGs is particularly evident in several goals, mainly including Goal 12 (Responsible 

Consumption and Production), which promotes waste reduction through prevention, reduction, recycling, and reuse (Thakker 

and Sun, 2023; Velozo Valenga et al., 2023; Schroeder, Anggraeni and Weber, 2019). The circular economy is a particularly 

innovation that can also support the achievement of other objectives related to the Agenda, in particular the following: SDG 6 

(relating to water), SDG 7 (relating to energy), SDG 13 (relating to climate change) (Geissdoerfer et al., 2017), SDG 14 (relating 

to the oceans) and SDG 15 (relating to terrestrial life). In summary, the circular economy not only directly supports various 

SDGs, but also promotes an integrated approach to sustainability in which economic, social, and environmental goals are 

closely interconnected. 

In particular, the achievement of Goal 12, "Responsible Consumption and Production", calls into question the linear model of 

the traditional economic system. This Goal, fixed in the UN Agenda, originates from the fact that the world population currently 

consumes more resources than it can generate and supply; it also pushes to identify innovative solutions in the framework of 

social and environmental sustainability, involving both the production and consumption side (Gasper, Shah and Tankha, 2019; 

Gazzola et al., 2020). Therefore, it's a Goal with a dual purpose. Firstly, it pushes companies to implement sustainable practices 

aimed at reducing waste, including recycling and sustainable public procurement. Secondly, it encourages consumers to reduce 

waste and make responsible purchases and pushes them to inquire about the origin and composition of the products purchased 

(Bengtsson et al., 2018). 

Decisions related to production and consumption must be made by all levels, from supranational and national bodies to 

individuals, each of whom contribute in different ways to the implementation of a new circular economy model. To achieve 

this goal, it's not enough to perform virtuous but disconnected actions that are not integrated via a structured strategy. Instead, 

it's important to follow real sustainable behaviour models (Andrei, Gazzola, Zbuchea and Alexandru, 2017). As the production 

cycle starts with the use of raw materials and natural resources, it's essential to minimise the impact on the environment in the 

acquisition of these resources. The circular economy model is based on secondary raw materials, which are materials recovered 

from scraps and waste or previously used in otherproduction cycles that are regenerated and reintegrated into a new production 

cycle (Prieto-Sandoval, Jaca and Ormazabal, 2018). The circular economy model involves careful management of products as 

they reach the end of their use, when the potential waste is about to be created. This management involves a series of three 

phases: collection, breakdown and recovery. The different phases must enable the materials to be recovered as widely as 

possible. This allows for the regeneration and reuse of recovered materials in new production cycles. Eliminating waste and 

reusing and extending the life of the goods in circulation are two behaviours that should guide consumers (Sala and Castellani, 

2019). 



 
 

 
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42 

McDonough and Braungart (2013) propose applying new methods of cooperation between industry and final users to change 

the traditional way of thinking about waste. The suggested approach is based to the principle of eco-effectivity: the choice to 

do the right thing, meaning to thrive as a society, nourish the life cycle of the planet and feed the technological cycle of the 

industries without feeling guilty about consumption (Pessôa, Araújo and Arruda, 2015). 

 

3. Methodology 

To investigate the complex process of change that involves consumers' habits and companies' approaches to sustainable 

practices in the fashion market, six case studies related to the application of circular economy principles are presented. In 

particular, the qualitative methodology used follows that developed by Lanzalonga, Marseglia, Irace and Biancone (2024), 

based on case studies. In detail, the study was developed by considering two steps. In the first, six relevant case studies were 

identified. In the second, a research design was created. 

The six start-ups that were chosen are characterised by corporate visions focused on sustainability and circular economy 

principles, an approach to business that has allowed them to grow in the market and successfully overcome the initial start-up 

phase. These fashion companies have particularly distinguished themselves in the field of the circular economy, having won 

awards and/or sitting at the top of international rankings, as specified in the sections dedicated to the analysis of the individual 

case studies. Only start-up companies were selected, i.e., companies that had made product or process innovations (and not 

exclusively business model innovations, such as Zara). The results are, therefore, replicable to other companies with similar 

characteristics.  

The companies chosen share a common sustainable corporate strategy: improving the quality of life and creating value for 

consumers. They are as follows: Rifò, a company that reuses and transforms old clothing; Rapanui, a sustainable clothing brand 

born in 2009 based on the idea of creating clothing, from the production to the packaging phase, without producing any kind 

of waste; Cingomma, an eco-friendly Italian company that recycles bike tires and air chambers into belts, key holders and bags; 

Orange Fiber, an Italian start-up that uses orange waste to produce fashion items; Ananas Anam, which uses ananas fibre; and 

DuedilLatte, which uses milk fibre to produce fashion items.  

These companies have the following characteristics (Table I): 

 

Table I: Characteristics of companies 

  Revenue Number of employees Geographic location 

Rifò € 2.3 Million 
(2022)  19 (2024) Prato (PO), Italy 

Rapanui $ 5.7 Million 
(2023) 87 (2023) Freshwater, Isle of Wight, United Kingdom 

Cingomma € 200 Thousand 
(2023)  0 (2023)  Torino (TO), Italy 

Orange Fiber € 88 Thousand 
(2022) 4 (2024) Catania (CT), Italy 

Ananas Anam $ 8.6 Million 
(2023) 22 (2023) London, United Kingdom 



 
 

 
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43 

DuediLatte1 € 13 Thousand 
(2021)  0 (2021)  Crans-Montana, Switzerland 

Source: Authors own elaboration 

 

The research design is structured in five key steps to ensure the reliability of the results (Cascante et al., 2022). After defining 

research objectives (Eisenhardt, 1989) and methodology (Massaro, Dumay and Bagnoli, 2019), six case studies were selected, 

considering the variables listed above. To collect the data, two authors independently analysed the company websites (publicly 

available official data) (Gazzola et al., 2020b). Next, according to Gioia, Corley and Hamilton (2013), the collected data were 

analysed "through an iterative reasoning cycle based on an inductive search approach" (Lanzalonga et al., 2024, p. 6). The 

results of the analysis were then compared and evaluated in light of the two variables investigated in our analysis: quality of 

life improvements and consumer perspectives).  

 

4. Results  

4.1 Rifò 

Rifò (table II) is an Italian fashion company created in December 2017 and based in Prato, an historical textile district in the 

Tuscany Region. The idea was born when one of the funders, while working for the United Nations in Vietnam, realised that 

the clothing made in Vietnam and exported to Europe was returned to Vietnam in order to be landfilled or incinerated if it was 

not sold. Starting from this observation, he decided to bring back the Prato tradition of local cloth fabrics.  

Rifò started out as a start-up with a crowdfunding campaign in which about 8,000 euros was invested, and in 2020, after about 

two years of activity, they had a turnover of 500,000 euros. Rifò has launched different green ideas over the years. Among 

them, the Rifò t-shirt collection is made with 1 kg of old clothing and four plastic bottles recovered from the ocean. The t-shirts 

are not dyed. Instead, the colour of the new regenerated yarn is obtained from old garments of the same colour in order to 

reduce the consumption of chemical products during the processing. In addition, a Rifò t-shirt requires only 30 litres of water 

for production instead of the 2700 litres required to produce a normal virgin cotton t-shirt. In 2018, Rifò launched its first 100% 

regenerated cashmere collection, an eco-friendly solution preserving all the qualities of virgin cashmere garments. Thanks to 

an innovation introduced in the production process, the use of pesticides and chemical products is drastically reduced. The 

cashmere is entirely lowered and sewn without any kind of cut.  

In 2019, Rifò launched the Jeans Sweater collection. It consists of sweaters made from 100% recycled denim fabrics (jeans 

fabric); 97% is cotton and the remaining 3% is others fibres derived from jeans seams. The colours of these sweaters is the 

same as that of the original jeans, completely eliminating the use of artificial dyes and chemicals during production. For the 

production of each "jeans sweater", only 80 litres of water are required, instead of the 3000 litres necessary for producing virgin 

cotton jeans, reducing water consumption by 90%, energy consumption by 77% and CO2 emissions by 95%. The whole 

production process of these new "jeans sweater" is located within 30 km of Prato, thus improving the local economy with the 

 
1 Since 2022 the company has been taken over by Duedilatte Switzerland Sàrl. 



 
 

 
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44 

guarantee of quality and ethics in the whole production process (www.rifo-lab.com). Rifò is listed in the top 10 of responsible 

fashion brands in Italy (Luxiders, 2021). 

 

Table II: Rifò  

Rifò 

Improve quality of life 

Recycle Use remanufactured products   

Reduce 
Reduce environmental impact by reducing clothing waste put in 
incinerators  

Reduce/Reuse 
No discount prices during winter and summer sales, pushing consumers to 
buy only the necessary clothing  

Consumer 
perspectives 

  Creating consumer awareness of the real need to buy clothing items 
  Products are exclusively produced in Italy 

Source: Authors own elaboration 

 
4.2 Rapanui 

Rapanui (table III) is a sustainable clothing brand born in 2009. The founders had the idea to create clothing, from the production 

to the packaging phase, without producing any kind of waste. They started to create this new venture in their garden shed. After 

two months, they created their first t-shirt; after one year, they launched their first collection. Since their business was growing, 

they had to move to a larger working space. In 2011, Rapanui developed the "traceability map", where every clothing 

production trajectory is identifiable. As their production increased, they acquired a new printing technology, the Teemill 

platform, a real-time printing technology that allowed them to radically reduce waste. Using this platform, waste is significantly 

reduced because t-shirts are printed only after customers express their preferred print, thus avoiding overproduction. Teemill is 

therefore a circular production process that can modify old T-shirts by creating new ones with regenerated natural systems. 

Access to the Teemill supply chain is free for start-ups, and, until now, it has enabled tens of thousands of brands to produce t-

shirts in real time. In addition, all T-shirts are designed to be returned and remade when worn. The whole Teemill supply chain 

increases material utilisation and reduces chemical and water inputs and emissions outputs, sharing the benefits with customers 

and other businesses. In 2013, aware of the huge waste in throw away clothing, Rapanui created and implemented the "return 

to base" policy: once their customers are done with their Rapanui's clothing, they can return items to the store so that the 

company can reuse them to create new garments. In 2014, to make their customers aware of sustainability issues, they designed 

a collection in collaboration with WWF, and in 2018, they created the Ocean Collection to address the plastic problem (Rapanui, 

2020). Rapanui is listed in the top 10 Ethical Clothing Companies (ethicalconsumer.org).  

 
 
 
 
 
 

http://www.rifo-lab.com/


 
 

 
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Table III: Rapanui  

Rapanui 

Improve quality of life 
Reduce Reduce negative environmental impacts 
Reduce/Recycle Reduce waste  
Reuse Transform old t-shirts into new ones  

Consumer 
perspectives 

  Value as a priority  
  To offer something new, innovative and really eco-friendly  

Source: Authors own elaboration 

 
4.3 Cingomma 

Cingomma (table IV) was established in 2010. It is an eco-friendly Italian company that recycles bike tyres and air chambers. 

The company transforms old tires, neoprene waste and discarded advertising signs into belts, key holders and bags (Tortello, 

2012). In Italy alone, 380,000 tons of tyres are destined for disposal every year. Cingomma has chosen to recycle these 

materials, treating them with advanced cleaning systems and transforming them into highly desirable handmade clothing 

accessories that are 100 per cent made in Italy. Cingomma aims to combine passion, skills and talent to create a product that 

embodies sustainable and ethical values. Fashion accessories are characterised by a progressively numbered fabric label that 

testifies to the uniqueness of each product. This numbering is negative in order to communicate how much material Cingomma 

has managed to keep out of landfills since its first product. Cingomma has chosen to focus production on local Italian artisans 

in order to avoid the delocalisation of the production process and to sustain the creation of jobs in the local communities where 

the company operates. This mission has earned it a certification from Positive Causes.  

 

Table IV: Cingomma 

Cingomma 

Improve quality of life  

Recycle Recycles bike tyres and air chambers 

Reduce 
Environmental values embedded in their core businesses and reduces 
waste 

Reduce Eco-friendly attitude and practices represent an added value  

Consumer 
perspectives 

  Handmade by artisans in Italy  
  Added value for their customers  

 Source: Authors own elaboration 

  

The company mostly uses a business-to-business commercial strategy by providing clothing items to stores. Cingomma has 

also launched its own website, offering the possibility to purchase Cingoma's products online. However, the availability of 

online shopping is strictly restricted to certain areas where physical shops are not available to customers (Lava, 2019). 



 
 

 
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Cingomma has environmental values embedded in their core businesses and mission. These eco-friendly attitudes and practices 

represent an added value for their customers and other strategic stakeholders. They create advantages not only for the company 

but for the environment. By using old materials, Cingomma is able to save on the cost of raw materials while reducing waste 

and CO2 emissions (Cingomma, 2020). The company is listed in the top 10 Italian Sustainable Fashion Brands 

(vestilanatura.com).  

 

4.4 Duedilatte 

Duedilatte (table V) is currently one of the most innovative Italian brands in the fashion scene. The company was created in 

2013, when the founder had the idea of creating a new textile fibre starting from spent milk. She was inspired while making 

her morning coffee. Opening the fridge only to find that her milk was expired, she thought about how it might be used. 

According to the Italian agricultural association Coldiretti, the country wastes an estimated 30 million tons of dairy each year. 

The company gives a second life to what most people consider waste. Another advantage is that milk-based fabrics require 

much less water to produce: to make 1 kg of milk-based fibre requires only 1 litre of water, while the production of 1 kg of 

cotton requires 50 litres of water. Fashion professionals love the soft and pleasant textures of milk fibres, which caress and 

hydrate the skin thanks to the naturally high amounts of amino acid. Milk fibre is soft, 10% lighter then silk, hypo-allergic, 

anti-bacterial, and has a natural thermoregulatory property. Moreover, it's soft to the touch, shiny, and maintains the same 

characteristics after numerous washings. 

 

Table V: Duedilatte 

Due di latte 

Improve quality of life  

Innovation Promotes a new material without the use of toxic materials  

Reduce 
Promotes a circular economy model for waste processes improve waste 
reduction  

Sustainability Disseminates sustainable practices  

Consumer 
perspectives 

  Combining fashion, quality and well-being  

  Eco-friendly features throughout the production process  
Source: Authors own elaboration 

 

Duedilatte debuted with a t-shirt collection for men, women and children. The research and development team has invested 

time and resources to become a reference point in the technological field for the sustainable textile sector, creating new 

innovative textile fibres starting from agro-food surpluses, such as Cìcoffee and rice yarns. 

Protein and vegetable fibres that arise from circular economy and environmental sustainability processes are the cornerstones 

of their corporate philosophy. 

The production is now 100 per cent chemical-free. Even the dyes are from natural sources like blueberries and red onion 

(Duedilatte, 2020). The company is listed in the top 10 Italian start-ups that are changing the fashion world (Balena, 2018).  



 
 

 
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47 

 
4.5 Orange Fiber 

Orange Fiber (table VI) is an Italian company founded in 2014 that creates sustainable fabrics from citrus juice by-products 

that would otherwise be thrown away, representing hundreds of thousands of tons of precious resources every year. Orange 

Fiber has developed a process for extracting cellulose fibre from orange peel and transforming these fibres into biodegradable 

yarn. The sustainable fabric is similar to silk; they envision a new life for these materials, transforming them into refined, 

ethereal fabrics perfectly suited to the Italian tradition of high-quality fabrics and high fashion. Orange Fiber was able to attract 

the attention of high-end fashion brands. The company's yarn was first brought to market by Salvatore Ferragamo, who launched 

a daily wear capsule collection using the fibre on Earth Day 2017. The developed product can be printed, coloured and 

packaged, so brands don't have to modify their suppliers, and it can be woven together with any other material. 

The company's patented technique responds to market drivers from both consumers and producers. Whereas consumer demand 

for sustainable materials is rising, citrus juice companies face increasing burdens and challenges in properly disposing of waste. 

The fibre from citrus juice by-product does not require additional natural resources. Instead, it reuses waste, preserving land 

and water, avoiding the use of fertilisers and reducing environmental impact because it does not produce additional industrial 

waste. This practice reduces the costs and environmental impact of pollution related to the management of citrus juice by-

products, which measure more than 700,000 tonnes in Italy per year. 

Orange Fiber wants to establish themselves as the first Italian mover in the segment of sustainable fabrics through the "green" 

production of cellulosic fabrics from renewable sources and to create a highly recognisable textile brand for its commitment to 

environmental protection and transparency (Orange Fiber, 2020). The company is in the top 10 Italian start-ups that are 

changing the fashion world (Balena, 2018). 

 
Table VI: Orange Fiber 

Orange fiber 

Improve quality of life  
Recycle 

 Created from citrus juice by-products that would otherwise be thrown 
away 

Reduce Doesn't produce additional industrial waste 

Reduce 
Reduces the environmental impact of pollution from citrus juice by-
products 

Consumer 
perspectives 

  Answers the consumer demand for sustainable materials   

  Practices transparency 
Source: Authors own elaboration 

 
 
4.6 Ananas Anam 

Ananas Anam (table VII) is a London-based company that produces Pinatex, an innovative textile that offers a sustainable 

alternative to leather and synthetic materials. Pinatex is one of those rare products of design thinking that has a significant 



 
 

 
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48 

environmental and welfare impact, bringing new income streams to subsistence farmers and allowing them to fully utilise their 

crops. The implementation of Pinatex will have far-reaching societal and environmental benefits. 

The extraction of the fibres is done by the farming community at a plantation. The company has created an automated 

decorticating machine that allows farmers to utilise greater quantities of their waste leaves. When the leaves have been stripped 

of fibre, nothing is wasted, and the residual leaf biomass can be used as a nutrient-rich natural fertiliser or a biofuel. The fabric 

is entirely made from agricultural waste, without using other water resources, pesticides or fertilisers. It transforms what already 

exists and brings commercial value to growers thanks to the exploitation of the leaves. 

The company totally applies the values of the circular economy model. Ananas Anam combines research and innovation to 

enhance the well-being of the people and the planet during the entire life cycle of their product. To obtain the raw material, no 

additional environmental resources are necessary, and no chemicals on the list of banned substances are used in production. 

Non-woven mesh is biodegradable. The raw material is found in the Philippines, where there are large pineapple crops, and the 

local population is involved in the collection and the first stages of processing (Ananas-Anam, 2020). The company is the 

winner of the 2020 Fashion Innovation Award, which is awarded every year in Switzerland (Loumish, 2020). 

 
Table VII: Ananas Anam 

Ananas Anam 

Improve quality of life  

Support rural 
communities 

Supports rural communities by working directly with agricultural 
cooperatives 

Reduce Enables farmers to utilise greater quantities of their waste 

Reduce Does not require other water resources, pesticides or fertilisers 

Consumer 
perspectives 

  Combines research and innovation to enhance the well-being of people 

  
Avoids the use of chemicals necessary for leather, which are particularly 
harmful to people  

Source: Authors own elaboration 

 

5. Discussion and conclusion  

The selected case studies were aimed at showing how sustainability represents a critical driver of growth for fashion companies 

and a strategic tool to improve the quality of life (Papagiannis et al., 2018). The elements investigated highlight the main 

emerging trends in the fashion sector, underlining the growing use of the circular economy and the paradigm of the 3Rs 

principle. In particular, in the group of three companies that base their business model on the principles of the circular economy, 

Rifò and Rapanui are the companies that, in order to improve the quality of life, adopt a business paradigm based on the 3Rs. 

Cingomma, on the other hand, mainly uses two R's (recycle and reduce). The other three companies use sustainable materials 

to produce fashion products. In this group Orange Fiber and Ananas Anam, by virtue of their business model, adopt the R of 

reduction. It therefore appears that "reduce" is the principle of the circular economy that is developing the most, followed by 

"recycle" and finally by "reuse". The analysis also led to the identification of the consumer's perspective. It is clear that all 



 
 

 
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49 

companies adopt this perspective in the production of fashion products. Localised production in Italy, the hand-crafting of 

products, attention to quality, the adoption of transparent practices, the non-use of harmful chemical elements, are all examples 

of strategies used with a view to focusing on the consumer. In general, however, both in response to growing regulatory 

pressures and in response to real needs to improve the quality of life and attention to consumer needs, fashion companies are 

increasingly adopting sustainable practices (Gazzola, Pavione and Pezzetti, 2017). This will lead to the progressive transition 

towards forms of circular economy (Dissanayake and Weerasinghe, 2021). The fashion industry can therefore achieve 

sustainable development through the circular economy and the involvement of consumers (and stakeholders in general) (Ki, 

Chong and Ha‐Brookshire, 2020). 

The transition of the fashion industry from a traditional high-environmental impact model to a circular economy model 

(Colombi and D'Itria, 2023) shifts the focus to reusing, adjusting, renovating and recycling both materials and final products. 

This transition is not only necessary to address a growing demand for goods and services that contrasts with an ever-decreasing 

availability of natural resources, but also allows fashion companies, especially start-ups, to innovate their business models 

according to sustainability principles. In relation to RQ1, in the circular economy model, what is normally considered "waste" 

can be transformed into a valuable resource by applying a new paradigm based on the so-called "three Rs principle": reduce, 

reuse and recycle. The application of this new paradigm (RQ2) not only allows fashion companies to transform waste into new 

resources, but also impacts the continuous desire for both product and process innovation, with important effects on the 

competitiveness of fashion players. Besides, the application of circular economy principles in the fashion industry leads to the 

implementation of the UN's 2030 Sustainable Development Goals, in particular Goal 12, which is related to Responsible 

Consumption and Production. In addition, it reduces the risks of fluctuating costs due to the variation in the prices of raw 

materials. In particular, the application of the "three Rs principle" encourages and drives both product and business model 

innovation while simultaneously encouraging the establishment of stronger and longer-lasting relationships between companies 

and customers based on mutual trust and the sharing of common ethical values. From an environmental point of view, the 

circular economy approach based on the "three Rs" paradigm reduces greenhouse gas emissions, water consumption and the 

use of primary scarce resources while simultaneously increasing soil productivity, with an overall positive impact on both the 

environment and quality of life.  

Even if awareness of the importance of the three Rs has improved among both fashion companies and consumers in recent 

years, the application of such principles today is still only happening in small-scale projects, mostly proposed and promoted by 

start-up companies that are basing their competitive advantages on sustainability and new business models inspired by the 

circular economy model. The six selected case studies show how these companies' ability to apply the three Rs principles 

(reduce, recycle and reuse) through product and process innovation has enabled them to achieve their vision of improving the 

quality of life by reducing waste, the use of resources, and the impact on the environment, all while supporting rural 

communities. At the same time, their ability to innovate products by offering sustainable and eco-friendly fashion items has 

generated value for their consumers while helping to create awareness in the market, an element capable of implementing 

corporate social responsibility.   



 
 

 
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50 

The present study therefore overcomes the limitation of many studies that focus on specific aspects (material recycling or 

sustainable production) without considering the interconnection between the different phases of the product life cycle 

(Geissdoerfer et al., 2017). It also considers the role of emerging paradigms in facilitating the transition towards the circular 

economy, often little considered in the literature (Minunno et al., 2020). 

Considering the practical and managerial implications of the paper, circular economy models open interesting perspectives for 

entrepreneurs in the fashion industry, going far beyond sustainability. The application of the "three Rs principles", in particular, 

can create new market opportunities for start-ups, such as Orange Fiber, Anas Anam and Duedilatte, which enhance recovered 

waste and transform it into new raw materials, because this practice is particularly appreciated by consumers, it creates new 

niche markets, allowing companies to rapidly increase their brand awareness and reputation.  

The main limitation of this study is the use of official information (taken from the companies' websites), without the use of 

interviews to enrich the research results. Further development could, therefore, combine a methodology of public website 

analysis with semi-structured interviews with company management and, possibly, main stakeholders. Furthermore, as 

highlighted in the methodology, only start-ups that have carried out product/process innovations and not model innovations 

were considered in the current study.  

 

6. Acknowledgements 

This publication is part of the project NODES which has received funding from the MUR – M4C2 1.5 of PNRR funded by the 

European Union - NextGenerationEU (Grant agreement no. ECS00000036). 

 

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