38 Chicken Paprikash Madison Weiss This is my people’s last rite of passage. They didn’t die in German camps for me to not master this recipe. Pearled chicken bone slips and pricks me, tingeing oil and onion an ember red that is one with the paprika, and I am reminded that this dish is my blood. But did I add enough bouillon? There are no directions other than what Dad told me, which Tova told him, and a whole onslaught of dead ancestors grumble from their graves that there are no such things as teaspoons, only “not too much” or “not too little.” The last bit isn’t kosher, enough to where I can hear Tova muttering about the foolishness of Gentiles, but I splash in that lump of sour cream because I uphold no ancient law in my cuisine. It is crucial to end the rite properly: I take a bite, shrug like a Jew, and say, “Meh. Maybe next time.”