Iberica 13 Ibérica 28 (2014): 83-106 ISSN: 1139-7241 / e-ISSN: 2340-2784 Abstract This study examines how cosmetics brands adopt characteristics of medical English in their web sites as a rhetorical strategy to persuade consumers. From the joint perspective of rhetoric, understood as persuasive stylistic choices, and a relevance-theoretic approach to pragmatics, the present paper explains how social assumptions about “ageing youthfully” are successfully strengthened in this type of advertising thanks to the alliance with medicine. This work explores various rhetorical devices, specified through both lexical and syntactic features. The analysis suggested here urges to reconsider research conclusions drawn on the use of science in advertising along truth-seeking premises, as well as previous classifications of this type of goods based on purely informative grounds. Keywords: medical English, cosmetics, web advertising, rhetoric, persuasion. Resumen “ E n v e je c e r ma nte n ié n do s e j o v e n” o l a r e tó ric a d el i ng l és m é di c o e n l a p ub l i c id ad Este trabajo analiza el uso del inglés médico en las páginas web de las marcas de cosméticos como recurso retórico para persuadir a los consumidores. Desde la perspectiva conjunta de la retórica, concebida como elecciones estilísticas persuasivas, y de la pragmática, de acuerdo con la Teoría de la Relevancia, se explica cómo los supuestos sociales en torno a la idea de “envejecer manteniéndose joven” se intensifican en este tipo de publicidad debido a la alianza que se establece con la medicina. El estudio de recursos retóricos desde este punto de vista, tanto a nivel léxico como sintáctico, invita a reconsiderar las conclusiones obtenidas por otros trabajos sobre el uso de la ciencia en los ‘Ageing youthfully’ or the rhetoric of medical English in advertising Marisa Díez Arroyo Universidad de Oviedo (Spain) arroyo@uniovi.es 83 05 IBERICA 28.qxp:Iberica 13 22/09/14 19:22 Página 83 Ibérica 28 (2014): 83-106 MARISA DíEZ ARRoyo cosméticos, especialmente aquellos basados en la búsqueda de la verdad en la publicidad o bien en un enfoque puramente informativo de la misma. Palabras clave: inglés médico, cosmética, publicidad web, retórica, persuasión. 1. Rhetoric and communication in advertising Rhetoric as an ancient discipline meant the skills of eloquent speech, practised for both aesthetic and practical goals. According to a line of thought headed by Plato, it was believed that a repertoire of skills in persuasive speech could win any argument, without concern for questions of truth or beauty (Mauranen, 1993). This standpoint has been largely responsible for rhetoric’s poor reputation, correlating it mainly with a flowery but empty message. In the last decade of the 20th century and in the beginnings of the 21st century, rhetoric has flourished once more and practitioners have spread their analysis across a variety of disciplines, among them advertising (McQuarrie & Mick, 1996; Zhao, 2002). In its contemporary revival, rhetoric has placed the focus on style – how to say things – leaving content issues (for instance, what brand attribute to claim or what competitive position to hold) to marketing decisions. The fundamental objective of running commercial advertising campaigns is to persuade, an aim that has always been at the very heart of rhetoric (Schiappa & Hamm, 2007). Therefore it seems likely that a rhetorical analysis can advance a broad understanding of advertising. McQuarrie and Phillips (2008) argue that the contribution of rhetoric to advertising is twofold: firstly, to point out that some of the choices available concern stylistic elements; secondly, to give a more detailed appraisal of how these elements operate in advertising. Considerations of this nature lead us to establish another necessary link with pragmatics, in Sperber and Wilson’s (2012a: 1) words, “the study of how contextual factors interact with linguistic meaning in the interpretation of utterances”. According to Relevance Theory, what is explicitly communicated by an utterance goes well beyond what is said or literally meant, and may be vaguer and less determinate than is generally thought (Sperber & Wilson, 1995). There is then a fundamental distinction between 84 05 IBERICA 28.qxp:Iberica 13 22/09/14 19:22 Página 84 explicatures (the speaker’s explicit meaning) and implicatures (all the other propositions that make up the speaker’s meaning). As Sperber and Wilson (2012a: 14) state, the crucial point about the relation between explicatures and implicatures is “that implicated conclusions must be deducible from explicatures together with an appropriate set of contextual assumptions”. The notion of context supported by Relevance Theory (Sperber & Wilson, 1995) comprises people’s cognitive environment in a broad sense, because it includes any phenomena that can enter the mind of the communicators during the interpretation process itself. This implies that contexts are dynamic, rather than fixed, and retrieved during the interpretation process (Xu & Zhou, 2013). The interaction between already held assumptions and new ones results in cognitive effects. The Principle of Relevance strives for the least processing effort with the greatest cognitive effects (Sperber & Wilson, 1995). Relevance Theory provides interesting and useful reflections for our analysis. on the one hand, it follows that the less explicit the meaning, the higher the hearer’s responsibility in constructing it. on the other hand, a hearer finds an input relevant when it connects with accessible contextual assumptions in order to draw positive cognitive effects. This is very important in advertising communication because each person will find some implicatures more accessible than others, thus being able to look for the relevance of the message in different ways. Moreover, if advertising communication is unfailingly characterised by a considerable load of processing effort (Diez Arroyo, 1998; Tanaka, 1999), then the reward will come in the form of greater cognitive effects. 2. Cosmetics in web advertising This paper focuses on skin-care advertising in women’s cosmetics companies’ web sites, therefore throughout the whole work the consumer will be considered female by default. The decision to focus on cosmetics advertising springs from the curiosity to examine how advertising rhetoric handles, supports and, possibly strengthens, the surrounding social anxiety over body culture and the urgency of looking good. These features surrounding the textual rhetoric of cosmetic advertising are also manifest in the relevant role played by imaging, with pictures of beautiful, young women and even famous actresses endorsing the advertisement. AgEIng youTHFully Ibérica 28 (2014): 83-106 85 05 IBERICA 28.qxp:Iberica 13 22/09/14 19:22 Página 85 As regards the selection of our product class, cosmetics, it has largely been determined by the importance that the face has as a prime symbol of one’s public appearance, above all for women. Women’s motivation to give their attention to cosmetic goods can be based on factual explanations about how sensitive their skin becomes to the passing of time, hence the need to take care of it. But all these ideas necessarily coexist with other underlying reasons that have been studied from multiple sides. A possible approach has been taken from the marketing and consumer behaviour perspective (guthrie, Kim & Jung, 2008), which explores how cosmetics may help women channel their desires to improve their physical attractiveness. Alternatively, other studies have been carried out from a gender viewpoint (Wolf, 1992) or a cultural one (Dolan, 2011), according to which the pressure on women is “to age youthfully”. As for the choice of advertising medium, cosmetics brands’ web sites represent a challenge with respect to magazine advertising. unlike most written advertising, the texts in our domain have not been conceived of as short attention-seeking phrases that a receiver may come across while browsing a magazine. nor are they usually so heavily conditioned by the limitations to the layout for a given publication. It is these features that make web sites special in a very important respect: their potential readers must have shown an interest and curiosity in the product beyond its name and use (day cream, night cream, face cream, eye area cream or serum) that impels them to click on the pull-down menus. As argued by Janoschka (2004), online advertising is interaction-oriented, in the sense that it has been designed to offer information based on the users’ decision. Thus the effectiveness of web advertising largely depends on the potential consumers’ motivation and involvement (Janoschka, 2004). People look for details about the object they are interested in and spend some of their time informing themselves about it. This informative issue that we claim to be attached to cosmetic brands’ web sites is not to be disregarded and bears important consequences for the purposes of the present work. Firstly, the classical dichotomy information/persuasion in advertising may now appear, less than ever, to be not so clear-cut (we will refer back to this point later in section 2.3). Secondly, as observed by Santamaría Pérez (2011), Internet advertising (at least in the case of certain products, among them cosmetics) can be characterised by a neutral, objective and more explicative tone, closer to scientific explanations. MARISA DíEZ ARRoyo Ibérica 28 (2014): 83-10686 05 IBERICA 28.qxp:Iberica 13 22/09/14 19:22 Página 86 2.1. The data As already stated, the selected object of analysis comprises women’s cosmetics companies’ web sites. The study is based on the information contained in the uRls of the following brands: Biotherm, Chanel, Dior, Estée lauder, Eucerin, guerlain, Helena Rubinstein, Jeanne Piaubert, Kanebo, l’oréal, la Mer, la Prairie, lancôme, nivea, olay, RoC, Shiseido and yves Saint laurent. The collection of data took place in the period March-December 2012 when well-known and established web sites of cosmetics companies were examined manually with the intention of gathering information about the language instances shown in the presentation of the products they offered. no pre-conceived divide between mass and class brands was applied to the search. Arguably, however, the final selection of examples favours expensive brands over less expensive ones (that is, nivea, RoC, Eucerin or l’oréal), an imbalance that we attribute to the difficulty met on some occasions to access the Internet sites of certain trade marks (for instance Boots), whose products where found (at least from the Spanish location where the research was conducted) only in web sites specialised in online shopping, and hence, finally discarded for distorting the purpose of the analysis. However, the uneven number of extracts between brand levels can obey other considerations. Firstly, differences may be partly attributed to the range of products available from each brand at a given time – with class brands ranking higher. Secondly, the design of the various web sites, with class brands coming top on the list of sophistication. This translates into the use of more details about the products, with optional sections (“learn more”, “application”, “ingredients”) that the reader can display at will. In this respect, we have observed a conscious effort to present the sections of the same line (for example, Capture Totale by Dior) in a careful, varied style, instead of the less sophisticated and more practical option of working on a schema and introduce variations on it. Such a strategy can be related to what is technically known (Aaker, 1997) as “brand personality”, that is, a compendium of the characteristics or perceptions that consumers attribute to a brand. Research has shown that consumers are inclined to purchase a product if they feel identified with the image projected by a brand or when they themselves want to achieve the ideal represented by it (Malhotra, 1981; Sirgy, 1982; guthrie, Kim & Jung, 2008). Regardless of these considerations, there is no distinction drawn in this paper between the rhetoric of mass or class cosmetics. AgEIng youTHFully Ibérica 28 (2014): 83-106 87 05 IBERICA 28.qxp:Iberica 13 22/09/14 19:22 Página 87 2.2. Background assumptions and working hypothesis When designing their texts, advertisers have to make decisions about what to say and how to say it. This is of the utmost importance, because at any time advertising must tune in to the current social values and interests. The relationship between the industry of personal care and consumers is mediated by society’s worries over ageing and beauty. Developments in medical science have significantly increased life expectancy – older people can live vigorous and more active lives until a much older age than in the past, which brings about the valorisation of youthfulness through the extension of middle age and the encouragement to keep a close check on bodily deterioration (Tulle-Winton, 2000). With these considerations in mind, we put forward the following hypothesis: advertisers draw the consumer towards cosmetics through the classical greek myth of eternal youth, which is revivified in our time through the alliance with medicine. A similar connection in terms of beauty and health, in Spanish advertising, has already been noted by Díaz Rojo (2001/2002), but his is an analysis heavily dependent on social cues. The present study, however, aims to contribute to the body of research on persuasive communication by extending the use of medical language to the advertising context. It is our contention that the tripartite link between medicine, health and beauty that allows advertisers to present the cosmetics product as a kind of medicine is based on four rhetorical strategies, namely, to assess the performance of the product, to invoke evidence as a scientific proof, to draw a parallelism with medical prescriptions and, finally, to adapt medical English to the advertising readership. Each of these strategies will be explained and exemplified in section 3. The rhetorical practice of resorting to medicine as a persuasive mechanism has a plausible justification since it [medicine] is an area in which the whole society is the potential clientele and where knowledge is quickly and frequently transformed into practice. It is perhaps the most obvious point of contact between science and society, and one at which attempts to popularise are inevitable. (McConchie, 1997: 4) To this same respect Hughes (2000) or Díaz Rojo (2001/2002) have observed that medicine is repositioning itself as a biopsychosocial practice MARISA DíEZ ARRoyo Ibérica 28 (2014): 83-10688 05 IBERICA 28.qxp:Iberica 13 22/09/14 19:22 Página 88 in which health maintenance, rather than disease and its elimination, is becoming the locus for health-care organisations. All the considerations made so far shed some light on how the invocation of medicine, or its counterpart, science, is designed to move the recipient of cosmetics advertising to take action, a recipient already sensitive to the issues of image and appearance intimately connected to health. These ideas are reflected in the following set of advertising extracts taken from our sample: (1) a. our exclusive technologies revitalize aging skin, making visible age reversal a reality.