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98 IGUANA  •  VOLUME 12, NUMBER 2  •  JUNE 2005 BURTON

Blue Iguana “YOB” (bead tag: yellow-orange-blue), moments after release back into the wild after being fitted with a PIT-tag, bead-tag,
and radiotransmitter.



“Team Blue 2005,” a rotating team of international vol-
unteers, is in the midst of an ambitious field season

working with the Blue Iguana Recovery Program on Grand
Cayman. As the Grand Cayman Blue Iguanas (Cyclura lewisi)
reach the peak of the annual mating season, program staff and
the Team Blue volunteers are capturing and attaching radio
transmitters to wild Blue Iguanas in the deep interior of Grand
Cayman’s East End, and to 23 captive-bred Blues released in
December into the Salina Reserve, a protected area in north-
eastern Grand Cayman.

The work in the Salina Reserve builds on two months of
radio-tracking that commenced immediately after these iguanas
were released. At that time, they were still subadults. Now, in
May, they have grown to the point that some at least appear to
be in breeding condition, and aggressive interactions are driving
the males into the rocky shrubland surrounding the small soil
patches where we hope the females will nest.

The elusive remnant wild population in the eastern interior
is only slowly revealing its secrets to dilligent observers. In pre-
vious years, this has been the only known site where unmanaged
wild iguanas still appeared to be breeding. Very few individuals

seemed to be involved, with possibly only one nest per year —
but the nest site(s) and the locations of the breeding adults were
completely unknown. This year for the first time in many years,
no new young have appeared in this home of the last wild Blues.
Most likely, all were drowned in the nest during the floods that
accompanied Hurricane Ivan last year.

Team Blue members struggled to make the first contact,
but in late April eventually managed to trap a young but mature
male, who was bead-tagged Green-Red-Blue (GRB), fitted with
a radio transmitter, and released. Over the next two weeks,
twice-hourly triangulations of his position showed him spend-
ing most of his time in six small areas within his large home
range, providing the team with indications as to where they
should focus their efforts. Using blinds at these locations, two
more wild iguanas were first spotted, and then eventually, on 9
May, these also were trapped and radio-tagged. One was a young
mature female, laden with eggs, the other a young male scarred
from fights, probably with GRB. The female (tagged Green-
Green-Red) and the second male (Yellow-Orange-Blue) are now
also being tracked by triangulating their radio signals through-
out each day, hopefully leading the team to more wild Blues,
and to their nesting sites in June.

By the end of June, the Blue Iguana Recovery Program
hopes to be incubating eggs from these wild iguana nests, as well
as from nests in the Salina Reserve and from the released and
captive populations in the QE II Botanic Park.

References
Binns, J. and F. Burton. 2004. Status of the Blue Iguana (Cyclura lewisi)

Recovery Program. Iguana 12:27–28.

Burton, F. J. 2004. Battling extinction: A view forward for the Grand Cayman
Blue Iguana (Cyclura lewisi). Iguana 11:233–237.

Blue Iguana Update
Frederic J. Burton

Director, Blue Iguana Recovery Program
P.O. Box 10308 APO, Grand Cayman, Cayman Islands (fjburton@blueiguana.ky)

Photographs by the author.

IGUANA  •  VOLUME 12, NUMBER 2  •  JUNE 2005 99BLUE IGUANA UPDATE

�

Team Blue 2005 volunteers (left to right) Ae Nash, Nick Louis, and
Lorraine Scotson carrying YOB back to the site of his capture.

Male iguana (green-red-blue) receiving a pit tag.

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100 IGUANA  •  VOLUME 12, NUMBER 2  •  JUNE 2005 HUDSON

Whenever I take someone to the Hellshire Hills in Jamaica
to see the iguana field project, I describe the habitat as

someplace where they definitely don’t want to fall down. The
brutally sharp limestone rock, known as karst, can inflict griev-
ous bodily harm to someone unfortunate enough to take a tum-
ble. However, after seven years of trekking around Hellshire
without serious injury, I took that tumble in June 2000, when
we had gathered a field team to search for new nesting areas. I
was wearing a new pair of boots and not at all confident of my
stride. Without my “field legs,” I predictably stumbled and hit
the uncompromising karst with both hands and knees. Deep
puncture wounds in the heels of each hand plus some nasty knee
injuries kept me laid up in the hammock for a day recuperating
and ingesting pain pills and anti-inflammatory drugs. Although
it could have been a lot worse, to this day I wear thick leather
gloves when traversing the karst of Hellshire. That way, if I feel
myself going down, I can at least break my fall with my hands
without risking serious injury.

As painful as that day in 2000 was, it absolutely does not
compare to the indignity suffered on my recent February 2005
trip. A record (my personal) three iguana bites over three days,
combined with walking out of Hellshire in the dark (which can
be dicey even in broad daylight), topped off by getting mired
past my knees in swamp mud, all resulting in what I consider
my roughest trip yet. Maybe not the roughest physically, but cer-
tainly the most damaging to my psyche.

The misadventure began at the Hope Zoo in Kingston,
home of the Jamaican Iguana headstarting program. We were
preparing another cohort of 16 iguanas for repatriation into
their native habitat, and I was joined by a veterinary team from
the Fort Worth Zoo plus two Ministry of Agriculture veterinar-
ians. During the next three days, we would be conducting pre-
release medical screening exams on 22 mid- to adult-sized igua-
nas to certify them healthy for release. This includes weighing
and measuring, collecting blood and cloacal cultures, physical
exams, and attaching bead tags for visual identification in the
field. My job was to restrain the iguana during much of this
process, which is something that I have done so routinely that it
has become second nature — or so I thought. The first bite on
my right thumb from a small female was minor; I covered the
wound with a band-aid and we were underway again in no time.

The next day, with our performance under the glare of a
graduate biology class from the local University of the West
Indies, I sustained my second bite. With a hood over the iguana’s
head and eyes to relax it, and using a rather cavalier one-handed
restraint, I somehow managed to pass my left hand in front of
the iguana. With a quick lunge and shake of the head, I had a
perfect, U-shaped bite on top of my hand that was bleeding pro-

fusely. I took this latest injury in stride and began trying to
staunch the flow of blood. The class was amused, except for one
student who couldn’t handle the sight of blood and had to leave
the building. Fortunately, the veterinary team was amply pre-
pared with a range of first-aid supplies, and Veterinary
Technician Kim Evans dutifully (again) bandaged my wound.
No band-aid was adequate, and, for the rest of that trip, my
hand was bound in green veterinary wrap.

However, the clincher came on Friday, 25 February, our
first day in Hellshire. With eight pairs of iguanas in hand, we hit
the beach at Manatee Bay around noon and set up camp.
Around 4 PM, three of us (field biologist Rick Van Veen, Kim,
and me) decided to make the trek to South Camp to release a
few males. We tend to release males in a somewhat random
manner in order to disperse them in hopes of reducing conflicts.
In contrast, females are always released at one of two primary
nesting sites so that they have an opportunity to imprint on the

Hellshire Blues
Rick Hudson

Fort Worth Zoo, Fort Worth, Texas 76110

�

This iguana bite would later seem insignificant, but only two hours
later we were mired deep in the mud and muck of a “dried-up” salina.
The word “salina” means swamp, but is designed to avoid a sense of
dread.  Don’t be fooled; if you hear this word, and it involves your
walking through it, be very afraid. 

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IGUANA  •  VOLUME 12, NUMBER 2  •  JUNE 2005 101HELLSHIRE BLUES

area in case this becomes important later. So, with the sun low
in the sky, and with the full realization that it would begin set-
ting in two hours, we began our ascent into Hellshire. To lighten
my load, I had removed most non-essential field gear — includ-
ing a headlamp that had to weigh all of eight ounces. What a
relief that was! After reaching South Camp, we caught our
breath, had a drink of water, and started unbagging the males
for release. These were all large adult males, well within breed-
ing size. Whether it was a lapse in judgment, carelessness, or just
a slip of my hand, I somehow managed to allow one of these big
boys to clamp on to my right thigh, way too high for comfort.
To make things worse, he didn’t just lunge and bite, he held on
with a tenacity that I thought was reserved for wolverines and
alligator snappers. Registering pain beyond anything iguana-
related I had previously experienced, and with blood streaming
down my leg into my boot, I issued an expletive-laced cry for
help. Rick was quick to respond, but not in the way that I had
expected: between bouts of wicked laughter and mumbling
about not having batteries for his flash, Mr. Van Veen (formerly
known as my favorite Aussie) searched for his camera. He could-
n’t resist the urge to catch the famous iguana man in such a com-
promising situation. Kim busied herself finding the first-aid kit,
and extracted some cotton balls and a few band-aids. Fully
expecting a gaping flesh wound in need of suturing, I thought
to myself “that ain’t gonna cut it, honey; you better look for

some #2 cat gut.” Rick had finally managed to stifle his laugh-
ter and began the task of trying to extricate the iguana that was
so intimately involved with my upper thigh. Each attempt to
loosen the jaws would produce another chomp and another
surge of intense pain. With Kim working the back and Rick the
head, he finally managed to pry the jaws loose. First aid included
application of some primitive foul-smelling wound dressing that
Rick had in camp (I remember something like Dr. Percival’s bit-
terroot swamp tonic) followed by an elastic bandage. With this
unexpected event taking up valuable time and the sun quickly
setting, we released the four males and began heading back to
camp. Only halfway there and visibility was already extremely
poor; three-fourths of the way and the three of us had to hold
hands to stay in contact as we maneuvered the rocky trail. I
lamented not bringing my headlamp, to which Rick replied: “If
I’d thought of it, mate, I could have brought one from South
Camp.” Although I wasn’t sure what an aneurysm felt like, I was
pretty sure I was about to add that to my list of the day’s mal-
adies. My only comment to Rick was that killing his primary
sponsor and #1 champion for his project was not a good career
advancement strategy.

When we finally reached a point where continuing on the
trail was becoming hazardous, and facing a final stretch to the
beach that meant stepping from one large boulder to the next,
we opted to walk through the “dry” salina. With no tree canopy
to block the new moon, the salina was better lit but no more
hospitable. Kim and Rick would leave shallower footprints than
my 210-pound bulk, but they were already sinking to their
ankles. Not long thereafter, I punched through and began sink-
ing. Once the mud goes past your knees, any hope of an unas-
sisted escape is gone, and, on at least three occasions, I had to be
unceremoniously extracted from the swamp (I’ll never call it a
salina again) — only to take a few steps and sink again.
Something about crawling helplessly in the mud is very hum-
bling — and I can say with absolute certainty that I never want
to feel that humble again.

JO
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Nothing is capable of consoling a person who has just emerged,
iguana-bitten, beaten down, and exhausted from a night of wandering
in a swamp — but an ice-cold Red Stripe was about as welcome a sight
as any I could have imagined. Now that’s proper planning!

K
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Recommendations for Purchase and Acclimation

Ideally, one should acquire captive-bred animals directly from
a breeder. These animals are already accustomed to humans

and tend to be free of pathogens. Most breeders also are willing
to provide helpful advice on how to care for young Uromastyx
and continuing support should any problems arise later. In con-
trast, wild-caught animals are usually highly stressed by capture,
transport, and handling by retailers. They often are suffering
from illness, parasites, and dehydration. Sick animals often have
sunken eyes, jutting pelvic bones, muscle wasting of the tail and
extremities, and poor color. However, regardless of the source
from which the Uromastyx is purchased, the following ground
rules should be followed:
1. The Uromastyx should be alert, moving normally, and

interested in proffered food. Newly imported Uromastyx
display obvious defensive reactions when handled.
Obviously “tame” behavior in a recent import is an indica-
tion of possible illness. Missing toes and tail tips are usually
not a problem; however, any injuries should be well healed.

2. The animals should not have any signs of infection, abscesses,
or burns on their bodies, extremities, or tails. Special atten-
tion should be paid to skin folds. Mites are known to inhabit
skin folds of the neck and limb insertions as well as the areas
around the eyes and in ear openings. Limbs should not
exhibit any swelling. Uromastyx tend to have shedding prob-
lems, particularly on the spiky scales of the tail. No old skin
layers should be present anywhere on the body.

3. The mucous membranes of the mouth should not exhibit
any injuries, crusting, or infection. Under no circumstances
should any parasites be visible in the mouth and the breath
should not smell unpleasant.

4. Eyes should be clear. Nasal openings should be dry and
without mucus discharge. Nasal glands may produce a
watery salt solution, which, when dry, forms a white salty
crust around the nasal openings.

5. The animal should appear properly nourished. The base of
the tail should not be concave and pelvic bones should not
be obvious.

6. Breathing should not be labored. Any whistling, coughing,
or sneezing can be an early sign of illness. Note, however,
that even healthy Uromastyx will sneeze occasionally to
expel excess salts (see point 4 above).

An important first aid measure for animals with sunken eyes,
jutting pelvic bones, muscle wasting, and poor color is rehydra-
tion. A daily dose of 20–30 ml of a physiological electrolyte solu-
tion (e.g., Pedialyte® or Gatorade®) per kg body weight should
be administered orally. Opening the animal’s mouth may pres-
ent difficulties. Under no circumstances should it be forced. If
oral administration is not successful, the alternative is to have a
veterinarian  inject subcutaneously (under the skin) a sterile elec-
trolyte solution. If the animal refuses food for an extended
period of time, an easily absorbed formula such as Critical Care®

or Ensure® with added fiber can be administered orally (50 cc/kg
body weight daily, divided into three to four meals spread out
over the course of the day). Sustained force-feeding can lead to
further problems; any animal that does not start eating inde-
pendently within a day or two should be seen by a qualified rep-
tile veterinarian.

102 IGUANA  •  VOLUME 12, NUMBER 2  •  JUNE 2005 WILMS

H U S B A N D R Y

Captive Care of Uromastyx1

Thomas Wilms

Bad Dürkheim, Germany

Photographs by the author except where noted.

1 Translated and adapted by AJ Gutman from T. Wilms, Uromastyx:
Natural History – Captive Care – Breeding. Herpeton Verlag,
Offenbach, Germany.

Uromastyx: Natural History – Captive Care – Breeding 
by Thomas Wilms (142 full-color pages, hardcover, 138
color photos, 23 drawings, and distribution maps for
every species). Price: 39 EUR. Offenbach: Herpeton,
2005 (www.herpeton-verlag.de). ISBN 3-936180-12-1.

This book provides detailed information about all species
in the genus Uromastyx and addresses all topics relevant to
the hobbyist, professional herpetologists, and veterinarians.

Contents: Name and systematics, distribution and zoo-
geography, habitat and natural history, behavior, captive
care, reproduction, raising hatchlings, skin diseases, an
identification key to all species of Uromastyx, accounts of
all species, and more ...

AVAILABLE AT BIBLIOMANIA (breck@herplit.com)



IGUANA  •  VOLUME 12, NUMBER 2  •  JUNE 2005 103UROMASTYX

Regardless of origin, a newly acquired Uromastyx should be
quarantined for 6–8 weeks in an easily cleaned habitat. Even
though the quarantine habitat is only temporary, the various
psychological and physiological needs of the animals must still
be met. Temperature must be properly regulated and hiding
places provided so that the animals feel secure. During the quar-
antine period, stool samples should be taken repeatedly and
checked for parasites. These should also be cultured for amoe-
bas. A sick Uromastyx should always be seen by an experienced
reptile veterinarian; self-treatment is not recommended.

The minimum terrarium dimensions for a pair of
Uromastyx are 5 x 4 x 3 (L x W x H) times the snout-vent length
(SVL) of the animals. Thus, for an SVL of 25 cm, the minimum
dimensions would be 125 x 100 x 75 cm. In my opinion, these
dimensions represent an absolute minimum, but other param-
eters also play a significant role in providing species-specific care
for Uromastyx. These considerations include: population density,
social structure, terrarium setup, climate, lighting, and nutrition.

Population Density and Social Structure
Adult male Uromastyx are territorial and intolerant of sexually
mature males of the same species. Adult males should never be
kept in the same terrarium. Even females, especially when gravid,
can be highly intolerant of each other. Uromastyx are best kept in
pairs. In many instances, a lower ranking animal will become so
stressed by the mere presence of a dominant animal that it will
refuse food and cease to exhibit any normal activity. These ani-
mals grow slowly, if at all, and are susceptible to bacterial and par-
asitic infections. Eventually, fights will break out, which, within
the confines of a terrarium, can result in damage. Injuries from
bites to the toes, tail, and flanks as well as broken extremities can
be largely avoided by keeping animals in pairs. Aggression
between males and females is much less common. If this occurs,
the animals should be placed with different partners.
Occasionally, some individuals will display consistently high lev-
els of aggression and must be kept by themselves. In smaller ter-
raria with a high population density, fighting and biting among
all species is inevitable. Animals in very small terraria with very
high population densities demonstrate virtually no natural behav-
ior. They are unable to claim any territory and give the external
appearance of being compatible and “tame.” In the past, this has
led to the belief that Uromastyx are social creatures, which should

be kept in groups. However, such animal husbandry does not
conform to the biology of the animals and is strongly discour-
aged. Juveniles should never be kept with adults!

In principle, keeping Uromastyx with other species with
similar ecological requirements is possible, if enough space is
provided. Some examples of suitable species are the Hardun and
relatives (Laudakia sp.), Fringe-fingered Lizards (Acanthodactylus
sp.), and Middle Eastern Agamids (Trapelus sp.). Keeping dif-
ferent species of Uromastyx together is not advisable. The behav-
ioral repertoire of the various species is so similar that cross-
breeding between species can occur. Crosses between U. aegyptia
males and U. acanthinura females as well as between U. acan-
thinura and U. dispar maliensis are known. Hybridization within
a genus is possible; however, to date, hybrids between U. acan-
thinura and U. dispar maliensis are known only from captive
breeding situations.

Setting Up the Terrarium
Commercially available glass terraria can be used for keeping
young Uromastyx or species that remain small. However, these
do not provide sufficient space to house adult animals of most
species. In general, a Uromastyx terrarium must be custom built.
Laminated wood or plastic boards can be used in combination
with glass. Even when used for a desert habitat, wood should be
sealed against moisture. Any materials used inside the habitat
should be as durable as possible. Large knotted branches as well
as natural or artificial rocks are suitable.

The habitat should be structured to provide visual barriers
for the animals. Natural or artificial rock can be used to create
caves and tunnels. A hide-box can be used or the habitat can be
set up with a double floor. As a safety precaution, any cave or
hide-box should be high enough that the animal’s back will
touch the roof when reclining conventionally. The interior
should also be large enough for the animal to turn around com-
fortably. All stone structures should be securely attached,
although caves and tunnels should be accessible to the caretaker
at all times.

With a little crafting skill, you will be able to create your
own artificial rock. A technique that works well for this type of

A healthy seven year old U. acanthinurus female receives regular expo-
sure to natural sunlight, weather permitting.

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Healthy male Uromastyx acanthinura nigriventris.



104 IGUANA  •  VOLUME 12, NUMBER 2  •  JUNE 2005 WILMS

application involves gluing sheets of styrofoam to the back
and/or side walls of the terrarium. These can then be modeled
to form hiding places and caves. The resulting styrofoam
“rockscape” can then be plastered with modeling cement. While
still soft, the cement can be colored by stirring in readily avail-
able paint emulsions. To avoid cracks, I use a preservative coat-
ing, which leaves the cement far more durable and resistant to
crumbling. The surface of the cement can also be modeled with
a brush while it is still wet and subsequently strewn with sand.
Once dried, this produces a hard surface with plenty of traction
for the animals. In my opinion, an external coating of epoxy is
not necessary in a dry terrarium.

Hiding places allow the animals to fulfill their need for con-
cealment. Without an appropriate retreat, a Uromastyx will feel
insecure and react to even the slightest disturbance with hectic
flight. Wild caught individuals are much more difficult to accli-
mate without a secure hiding place. Natural sand mixed with
clay makes the best substrate. Pure quartz sand is not suitable. A
depth of about 5–6 cm of substrate is sufficient if artificial caves
and tunnels are present. If you are not using prefabricated caves
and tunnels, the animals should have the opportunity to create
their own. This requires a substrate at least 25 cm deep and in
which they can dig.

Aside from housing Uromastyx in a conventional terrarium,
they can be maintained in a heated green house, which could

provide the animals with nearly optimal light and heating con-
ditions. An open terrarium can be built on a podium approxi-
mately 80 cm high. The glass surfaces of the green house should
be made of Plexiglas panels which are UV-penetrable.

Climate
The two most important climate parameters for keeping
Uromastyx are temperature and light intensity that approximate
natural seasonal fluctuations. The ambient temperature during
the animals’ activity period during the day should be from
28–40 °C, in exceptional cases to 45 °C, and from 18–20 °C at
night. Basking spots with a localized temperature of 50–60 °C
should also be provided. Heating for these basking areas is best
provided by radiant heat sources. Emitters should provide both
heat and light in the visible spectrum. Pure heat emitters, such
as infrared lights or “hot rocks” are not appropriate. Uromastyx
are heliophilic (sun-loving) and associate warmth with light.
“Dark” basking spots do not meet the physiological require-
ments of the animals. In my experience, many Uromastyx species
are better kept too cold than too warm.

For appropriate maintenance of species such as U. aegyptia,
U. acanthinura, and U. hardwickii, a brumation period at
reduced temperatures is necessary. In the wild, these species can
be seen outside their burrows during warmer weather. A bru-
mation period in the terrarium is introduced by a gradual low-

Combat between a pair of male Uromastyx acanthinura nigriventris.
Juveniles, such as this Uromastyx dispar dispar, should be raised sepa-
rately from adults.

Gravid female Uromastyx thomasi in front of her retreat. Part of the author’s terrarium setup devoted to Uromastyx.



ering of temperature to 15–20 °C and a reduction in photope-
riod and lighting intensity. Throughout the brumation, the ani-
mals should have the opportunity to warm themselves to pre-
ferred temperatures under a heat emitter. This heat source
should be in operation for about 6–8 hours, and the remaining
lighting should be operational for about 10 hours per day. If
maintained in a greenhouse, species requiring a brumation
period should be kept at a temperature of at least 15°C. On
sunny winter days, the air temperature can reach values over 20
°C through sun exposure. Also in a greenhouse situation,
depending on the weather, heat emitters should be in operation
for 6–8 hours a day from mid-September until the end of
March.

In the terrarium, the duration of the brumation period is
2–4 months for U. acanthinura, 3–4 months for U. aegyptia,
and 4 months for U. hardwickii. For species with no significant
annual temperature fluctuation, a slight reduction in tempera-
ture during the winter is sufficient. For U. dispar, U. thomasi,
and U. ornata, experience has shown that a maximum temper-
ature reduction of 5–10 °C is sufficient to encourage reproduc-
tion. Other species in this category include U. princeps, U. benti,
U. ocellata, and U. macfadyeni. When maintained in a green-
house, even winter temperatures must correspond to natural
conditions within the range of each species. In addition, light-
ing must be provided in the terrarium.

Although Uromastyx are acclimated to life in desert and
semi-desert regions, a minimum of humidity is necessary to
maintain them in captivity. In the wild, the animals will spend
a significant portion of the day in their burrows, where the mois-
ture content of the air and the surrounding ground is somewhat
higher than that on the surface. The humidity requirements also

differ according to species. Species originating in extremely arid
inland deserts are considerably more tolerant of dryness than
species from coastal mountains. Climate tables for each species’
point of origin should be consulted. An occasional misting can
increase the humidity within the terrarium; juveniles should be
provided with a water dish. However, water build-up in the ter-
rarium should be avoided, as this is a known cause of many of
the skin diseases that occur in various species of Uromastyx.

Lighting Conditions
Lighting in the terrarium should vary seasonally and correspond
with the length of the natural photoperiod. In general, a dura-
tion of 12–14 hours of light per day in the summer and 8–10
hours per day in winter is beneficial. Fluorescent tubes, mercury
vapor lamps, and metal halogen lamps are all suitable for illu-
minating the terrarium. In a terrarium of up to 65 cm in height,
the desired lighting intensity (without heat emitters!) should be
about 100–120 W/m2. In principle, a Uromastyx terrarium can
never have too much lighting, and it tends to be limited only by
financial constraints.

The use of appropriate UV lighting is critical for main-
taining Uromastyx species. Apart from critical UV rays, the heavy
illumination will also positively affect the activity levels and over-
all well-being of the animals. The distance between the light and
the animal will vary depending on the lighting products used;
however, the animals must be able to withdraw from proximity
to the light if they become overheated. Mercury vapor bulbs
such as T Rex’s UVHeat and Zoomed’s Powersun UV can be
operated all day long to provide both heat and ultraviolet light.
Specially designed fluorescent tubes also can be used to provide
UV (e.g., Zoomed 5.0 Reptisun). In order for these tubes to be

IGUANA  •  VOLUME 12, NUMBER 2  •  JUNE 2005 105UROMASTYX

Retreats are important for providing humidity. This U. acanthinura guards the entrance to her self-excavated below-ground retreat (bottom left of photo).



effective for desert reptiles, the animals must be in fairly close
proximity to the bulbs. In my opinion, the bulbs should be
installed in the terrarium so that they are no more than 20 cm
above the basking sites.

Nutrition 
A well-balanced and varied diet is critical for maintaining and
breeding Uromastyx. The species of this genus are omnivorous,
with plant matter making up the largest dietary component.
Juveniles often prefer animal nutrition; e.g., the diet of juvenile
U. acanthinura in the wild consists of approximately 75% ani-
mal source components. Remnants of tenebrionid and carabid
beetles, ants, and grasshopper larvae have been found in the
stomachs of young U. aegyptia, but animal materials constitute
only 1–2% of the total food intake in these lizards.

Plant matter should be offered daily, but with one or two
fast days per week. In the winter, escarole, collard greens,
romaine, and other leafy greens are available as well as parsley,
grated carrots, and sprouted mung beans, lentils, wheat, sun-
flowers, and other seeds. During the growing season, a wide vari-
ety of wild plants should be fed. Apart from common
Dandelions (Taraxacum officinale), Narrow- and Wideleaf
Plantain (Plantago lanceolata and P. major), as well as several
clover species (Lotus sp. and Trifolium sp.) are eagerly consumed.
Both the plumed leaves and the flowers of vetches (Vicia sp.) are
prized, as are the leaves and flowers of Robinia (Robinia pseudoa-
cacia). The animals can also be offered composites (including
Hawkweed, Hieracium sp.; Goatsfoot, (Senecio sp.; various
Dandelion species, Leontodon sp.), convolvules (including
Bindweed, Convolvulus sepium and C. arvensis), and carnations
(including Chickweed, Stellaria media). Other appropriate food
plants are daisies, alfalfa, coltsfoot, borage, dill, chervil, lovage,
rosemary, sage, sorrel, and lemon balm. Various species of grasses
and their seeds also may be offered.

Uromastyx also should be provided with a mixture of dried
seeds and beans made up of green and red lentils, small grain
corn, small green peas, barley, wheat, soybeans, vetch, oats, rice,
hemp, mung beans, sunflower seeds, buckwheat, and millet.
This dry food mixture should be constantly available.

Fruits are rarely or only occasionally consumed and should
generally not be included in the menu. Food plants can be fed

whole or chopped into smaller pieces and strewn on the bottom
of the terrarium. Food remnants can actually be left in the ter-
rarium, as the animals often prefer dried leaves to fresh ones. In
this case, you do need to be careful to avoid the development of
rot or fungus.

Apart from this vegetable matter, Uromastyx can be fed var-
ious insects such as cockroaches, grasshoppers, wax worms,
crickets, beetle larvae, etc. Juveniles can be fed insects 4–7 times
per week, whereas adults should only receive them once or twice
a week.

The composition of the diet should vary throughout the
year. In the wild, certain foods are accessible only at certain times
of year. Due to the meager and highly seasonal precipitation in
their natural habitat, fresh plant material in the form of herba-
ceous annuals (so-called therophytes) is usually available for only
a short time. Most of the time, Uromastyx survive on the few
perennials plus seeds. In captivity, the dietary proportion of wild
plants and sprouts can be increased either following brumation
or in the spring for species without a clearly defined seasonal
rhythm. At this time, the proportion of animal-based foods in
the diet can be increased. Females in particular have an increased
protein requirement in order to produce eggs. During mid-sum-
mer, the dietary proportion of seeds can be increased. Through
seasonal changes in dietary composition and climate regulation,
the animals are further encouraged to maintain their natural
annual rhythm. During brumation, very little food is consumed.
However, fresh drinking water must be available during this
period.

To ensure that vitamin and mineral requirements are prop-
erly met, various supplements can be used. Combined vitamin
and mineral preparations (e.g., Miner-al™, Nekton Rep™, 
Rep-cal™, etc.) can be used to dust food insects. However, an
appropriate mineral supplement should also be mixed in with
seeds. Certain preparations can easily be sprinkled on plant food,
while others produce a slimy, foul-smelling film and should not
be offered to this species in this manner. Fluid vitamin prepara-
tions should be administered to each animal individually.

106 IGUANA  •  VOLUME 12, NUMBER 2  •  JUNE 2005 WILMS

Lighting in a terrarium for Uromastyx should be fairly intense.

Sprouted seeds make an excellent addition to the diet of this female U.
ocellata.



IGUANA  •  VOLUME 12, NUMBER 2  •  JUNE 2005 107UROMASTYX

Unfortunately, no guidelines for vitamin dosages are available
for Uromastyx.

Life Expectancy
To date, little information is available on the life expectancy of
Uromastyx species. Due to the relatively late onset of sexual
maturity in many species (U. acanthinura at 4–5 years of age, in
U. aegyptia at 4–6 years), a certain longevity is expected. So far,
the shortest time span to onset of sexual maturity in a Uromastyx
species is 11–18 months (U. ornata).

Life spans have been recorded for U. aegyptia (15 years, 4
months), U. acanthinura (11 years, 5 months), and U. ocellata
(3 years, 9 months), and all individuals were still alive at the time
of the report. I had a U. benti that was imported as an adult that
survived for 7 years and a female U. ornata, also an adult import,
that is still alive after 10 years. A U. asmussi that was captured as
an adult on 9 April 1954 lived until 23 October 1960, and a U.
acanthinura survived for 13.5 years in captivity. That this is con-
siderably less than the maximum life expectancy for species of
Uromastyx is demonstrated by a U. acanthinura that was kept for
22 years. This particular animal, which was imported as a
subadult, remained in the best of health when the report was
made. Yet another U. acanthinura, imported as an adult in 1973,
survived until 1995.

The presumed longevity record within the genus is held by
a U. aegyptia living in the wild in Israel. The age of this animal
was estimated to be at least 33 years. The animal was captured
on 15 June 1980, measured and marked, and recaptured on 19
March 1994. The total length during these 13 years and 88 days
increased from 4.3 cm to 74.3 cm. The age estimate is based
largely on the calculated growth rate.

Acknowledgments
A. A. Schmidt (pers. comm. 1995) provided longevity records;
D. Dix (pers. comm. 1999) provided information on hybrids
between Uromastyx acanthinura and U. dispar maliensis in cap-
tive breeding situations; and H. Leslie (pers. comm. 2000)
informed me of the onset of sexual maturity in U. ornata.

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Author Information
Thomas Wilms is a biologist who has worked with
Uromastyx for over 15 years. He has successfully and
repeatedly bred many species and the hatchlings often
become subjects of new research projects. Wilms also
has traveled widely in the natural range of Uromastyx
lizards, where he discovered a new species and where
observations of wild-living populations have effectively
supplemented his laboratory studies.

Juvenile Uromastyx thomasi at the age of six months.




