






































Iguana b&w text


226 IGUANA  •  VOLUME 15, NUMBER 4  •  DECEMBER 2008 PLUMMER

Male and female Central Netted Dragons (Ctenophorus nuchalis).



IGUANA  •  VOLUME 15, NUMBER 4  •  DECEMBER 2008 227HUSBANDRY

With their easy-going temperament and unusual color
combinations, Central Netted Dragons (Ctenophorus

nuchalis) have become increasingly popular pets. Central Netted
Dragons are small, energetic agamid lizards with a calm tem-
perament that allows them to be handled easily. One of the rea-
sons these lizards are so popular is their striking appearance. A
dark reticulated pattern overlays a body color of pale brick-
brown with a pallid unpatterned belly. They have a rounded

head with a row of enlarged scales curving under both eyes and
above each exposed ear, and small spines made up of soft skin
around their head and nape. Central Netted Dragons are sexu-
ally dimorphic. Adult males average 250–280 mm (9–11") in
total length and 100 mm (4") from snout to vent (SVL).
Females are usually smaller. Males also have larger heads in rela-
tion to their bodies.

Habitat
Central Netted Dragons inhabit a vast area of central Australia,
occurring throughout the desert plains of Western Australia, the
Northern Territory, and also in western Queensland and parts
of New South Wales. They are abundant in open sandy areas
with sparse vegetation, increasing substantially in number in
areas artificially cleared of vegetation.

These lizards are diurnal and terrestrial, spending their days
basking on logs, stones, and termite mounds. Predators include
birds of prey, larger reptiles such as monitors and snakes, and
mammals such as foxes and feral cats. When the desert temper-

H U S B A N D R Y

Captive Care of the 
Central Netted Dragon1

Shannon Plummer

New Farm, Queensland 4005, Australia (centralnetteddragon@mac.com)

Photographs by the author except where noted.

Two females (left) are distinctly smaller than the two males (right).

About the Author
Shannon Plummer is a wildlife photographer. Her style of fine
art photography caught the attention of the international pho-
tography community where she won several prestigious inter-
national awards and acclaim from her peers. She is also a
wildlife rehabilitator for sick, injured, and orphaned Australian
wildlife, specializing in reptiles. Shannon has a deep interest in
dragons, monitors, and pythons, which she keeps and breeds
along with various other reptiles needing rehabilitation.

A dark reticulated pattern overlays a body color of pale brick-brown
with a pallid unpatterned belly.

1 This article is excerpted from Captive Care of the Central Netted
Dragon by Shannon Plummer. For more complete and detailed care
information, you can obtain a copy through selected pet stores or
by logging onto www.centralnetteddragon.com.



atures peak during the middle of the day, Central Netted
Dragons retreat into their cool burrows. They are known to have
several burrows, usually found at the base of Spinifex shrubs or
stumps.

Life Span
Although the life expectancy of most wild reptiles is difficult to
estimate, the general consensus is that Central Netted Dragons
are relatively short-lived. Captive lizards are expected to live
around 6–7 years; however, some have been reported to live
more than nine years. In the wild, where they are subject to

predators, disease, and lack of food and water, they generally sur-
vive only 2–3 years.

Outdoor Housing
If you live in an area with a climate similar to that of the
Australian regions inhabited by the Central Netted Dragon, an
outdoor enclosure is ideal, as it mimics the lizards’ natural envi-
ronment. You should add several retreats, basking areas, and
shade, while providing a balanced diet and clean water. The
walls will need to be high enough to prevent escape attempts,
and enclosure design should take into account the height and
position of potential basking areas such as shrubs or stumps.
These lizards have very strong limbs and are quite capable of
jumping a considerable height. Walls of the enclosure should be
smooth to avoid injury, as your lizard will initially spend a lot of
time trying to escape (rubbing its snout on the walls and trying
to climb out). You can also cover the enclosure with wire or
shade cloth to keep predators out.

The enclosure should be as large as possible to allow your
lizards adequate space to run and dig. Position your enclosure
where it will receive the maximum amount of sunlight, but
remember that adequate shade must be available at all times.
Even though the Central Netted Dragon is a desert-dwelling
lizard, fresh water must always be provided, either from a water
dish changed daily or a pool at ground level. Make sure the sides
of the pool have a gradual descent to allow easy access.
Alternatively, a large rock or branch set in the pool gives the lizard
something to cling to while submerged or drinking. Central

228 IGUANA  •  VOLUME 15, NUMBER 4  •  DECEMBER 2008 PLUMMER

Typical Ctenophorus nuchalis habitat. 

IS
TO

C
K

PH
O

TO
.C

O
M

The natural distribution of Central Netted Dragons.



IGUANA  •  VOLUME 15, NUMBER 4  •  DECEMBER 2008 229HUSBANDRY

Netted Dragons are capable swimmers, but prefer to be touch-
ing something in the water if they cannot reach the bottom.

The water quality can be maintained by the addition of a
“waste degrader” such as Exo Terra’s® Biotoze™, a probiotic
waste digester that contains natural, healthy bacteria that elimi-
nate organic waste. Water still needs to be changed at least once
a week, and, if feces can be seen in the water, it must be changed
immediately and the container cleaned and sanitized. Heavy rain
can flood an outdoor enclosure, so sufficient drainage is impor-
tant. This also provides a shady area protected from the ele-
ments. Elevated features such as stumps, logs, or stones will pro-
vide a retreat should water accumulate.

If the enclosure is positioned to take full advantage of the
sun, no extra heat or light is needed. However, if the enclosure
is not in an ideal location, providing an additional basking spot
by using a heat lamp or ceramic heat emitter is beneficial. 

Indoor Housing
An indoor enclosure provides the most versatile housing for
keepers in any climate and provides a good opportunity to
observe your lizard. Keep in mind that Central Netted Dragons
are terrestrial and are best kept in the largest enclosure you can
afford. A guide for minimum sizing is 100 x 40 cm (40 x 16")
with a reasonable height of at least 400 mm (16"). An enclosure
of this size will accommodate as many as three lizards. If you
want to keep more than one lizard, don’t house males together.
Central Netted Dragons are highly territorial, and battles for
dominance will result in stress and possible injury. House a male
with one or more females, or keep only females if you don’t want
to breed them.

Ventilation is important and best provided by using some
form of mesh for the top or even for part of one side of the
enclosure. If you choose to vent one side, make sure you install
the mesh at the “cool” end of the cage. However, be careful
when using wire mesh or screens — if the reptiles can reach the
wire they will rub their snouts trying to escape and injure them-
selves. With this in mind, position any side ventilation about
halfway up the enclosure. An open-mesh top is critical for allow-
ing the passage of light and heat.

The enclosure should be easy to clean, ideally with smooth,
watertight surfaces. The substrate should be selected to replicate
the lizards’ natural environment, which for Central Netted
Dragons means sand. Many varieties of sand are available, from
reptile-specific sands purchased at a pet store to sand from your
local hardware store. An economical option is bulk sand such as
that used in children’s sandboxes. Be sure to choose sand that
can be used for water filtration; this is a safer option than sand
that has been heavily bleached or chemically treated. Central
Netted Dragons are avid diggers, so provide as much sand depth
as possible to allow them to engage in natural behavior.

The most important features in an enclosure are retreats
that give lizards a place to hide when they feel threatened. Some
dragons also like to sleep in a protected area, so a retreat is essen-
tial for minimizing stress levels. When housing more than one
lizard, each animal should have an individual retreat. Because
these lizards love to dig, features should be positioned so they
are steady and won’t tumble onto your lizard if it digs under or
around them. As a general rule, try to place heavy items so their
bases are in contact with the bottom of the enclosure and sur-
rounded by packed sand so that your lizard cannot get stuck
under them and subsequently be injured or suffocate.

The addition of some plants will add a finishing touch and
make it feel more like home for your lizards. Plants like Spinifex
or succulents can be used as long as they don’t have spikes that
can cause injury. You also can choose from a variety of artificial
silk or plastic plants.

Make sure the water you provide is in a solid container that
cannot be spilled. The container must be cleaned and water
replaced daily. When using tap water, condition the water by
using a reptile water conditioner that will remove chlorine and
chloramines as well as ammonia. If you see any feces in the
water, you need to empty the container and clean and sanitize it
before putting it back in the enclosure. I recommend using a
veterinary grade disinfectant such as Chlorhexidine for cleaning
features and the enclosure itself. 

Heating and Lighting
A temperature gradient allows your dragon to thermoregulate
by shuttling between low and high temperature areas in the

Example of an outdoor enclosure design.

Comparing femoral pores is one way to determine sex.



enclosure. The ambient daytime temperature should be around
25 °C (77 °F) at the cold end of the enclosure, whereas the hot
end and basking areas should be maintained at 35–40 °C
(95–104 °F). These temperatures should be constant with min-
imal fluctuations.

Place a thermometer in the basking area to make sure the
temperature does not exceed a maximum temperature of 43 °C
(109 °F). Depending on the size of the enclosure, the light gen-
erated from the basking area may be enough for the entire enclo-
sure; however, if you feel the cooler end is not bright enough,
use a low-wattage fluorescent or halogen globe positioned so that
it will not affect the minimum temperature range. Make sure
you have a second thermometer placed in the cold end to mon-
itor the gradient.

Lights in summer should generally be on from 0500–1830
h. This provides at least 13 solid hours of UV light and closely
replicates a summer day. During winter, the photoperiod should
be reduced to 8–10 hours a day, and overall temperatures reduced.

Because Central Netted Dragons are desert-dwelling lizards,
lighting is one of the most important aspects of caring for your
dragons. Providing ideal lighting is absolutely critical for their
physical and psychological health. In the wild, the sun fulfils all
the dragons’ heat and light requirements. Reptiles are tetrachro-
matic, meaning that their eyes possess four types of cones (light
receptors that respond to different wavelengths or colors of
light). This gives them the ability to view a portion of the UVA
range. Studies show that correct reptile color rendering of artifi-
cial light is not only necessary for intersexual recognition, but
also for motion perception during foraging and for maintaining

an animal’s sense of well being. The immune system is as depen-
dant on the correct heat and light as it is on nutrients derived
from diet.

While no artificial light can replicate the full benefits of
direct sunlight, current technology can fulfill a dragon’s needs.
This cannot be done with a single lamp and must be accom-
plished with a combination of specific bulbs. While I don’t have
the opportunity to go into fine detail in this article about the
pros and cons of various lamps and how to use them appropri-
ately, note that my book, from which this article is extracted,
does explore this subject in much greater detail.

Ultraviolet light is very important to your dragon’s health,
in particular that portion in the spectrum known as UVB. UVB-
light allows lizards to synthesize Vitamin D3 in their skin, which
in turn mediates the absorption of calcium and the development
of strong, healthy bones. Vitamin D3 also is needed for the
health of the immune system and of muscles, including those of
the gut and reproductive system. Without UVB, dragons of any
age can develop Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). However,
UVB light will not prevent MBD without adequate levels of cal-
cium. Vitamin D3 allows a reptile’s body to absorb the calcium
needed for bone strength. Central Netted Dragons are mainly
insectivorous and are susceptible to MBD since most insects are
not rich in calcium. This is why a calcium supplement is vital.

UVA and UVB can be obtained through the provision of
a Mercury Vapor Lamp or fluorescent tube; however, not all
brands are alike and making the right choice will greatly affect
the health of your dragon. I recommend researching
www.uvguide.co.uk, a website dedicated to testing and publish-

230 IGUANA  •  VOLUME 15, NUMBER 4  •  DECEMBER 2008 PLUMMER

An indoor habitat showing proper heat and lighting.



IGUANA  •  VOLUME 15, NUMBER 4  •  DECEMBER 2008 231HUSBANDRY

ing information on various brands of UV-emitting bulbs.
Replace Mercury Vapor bulbs every 12–18 months and fluores-
cent bulbs every 6–12 months. Mark the installation date on the
bulb so you remember when to replace it. 

Diet
Central Netted Dragons wait for insects to pass before striking,
often leaving an elevated basking spot to feed on a passing insect
before returning to bask. An 18-month field study of Central
Netted Dragons in 1970 in Alice Springs and the Simpson
Desert investigated stomach contents from 156 individuals over
all seasons. The study found that the diet of dragons in natural
habitats was composed of 71.9% insect prey, 24.3% vegetation,
and 3.7% sand and debris. The remaining 0.1% was a lizard in
one of the 156 stomachs.

A safe and healthy diet is crucial for optimal heath. Use
only live insects that have not been exposed to insecticides or
chemicals. Feed adult dragons two or three times a week and
allow them to eat as much as they want over the course of about
20 minutes. Some authorities suggest feeding small reptiles like
Central Netted Dragons more frequently, as many as five times
a week. However, if not very carefully monitored, this can result
in an overweight dragon with health problems such as a fatty
liver. However, growing juveniles should be fed as many as five
times a week. 

The most popular choices for a staple diet are crickets and
cockroaches (also known as “woodies”), but dragons also love
mealworms and silkworms, which can be used occasionally to
add variety. Whether you choose crickets or woodies, they
should always be “gut loaded” before feeding them to your
dragon to provide the highest nutritional value. To prepare the
insects, you can feed them vegetables and fruit as well as cat or
dog food, moist or dry. I use pieces of oranges, apples, and car-
rots sprinkled with a vitamin supplement for insectivores, as well
as a calcium powder. The fruit keeps the insects well hydrated
without having to use additional water sources. To avoid

impaction, feed your dragon only insects that are equal to or
smaller than the width of the dragon’s head. If in doubt, go
smaller. No crickets or woodies should be left in the enclosure
after each dragon has finished feeding. These insects are experts
at hiding until nightfall, when they come out and harass and
bite your dragons. Aside from interrupting their sleep, bites can
result in open sores, especially in young dragons. Dragons
should receive a balance of vitamins and minerals, such as a
multi-vitamin supplement, to avoid common deficiencies. Too
much can also be harmful, so don’t use the multi-vitamin more
than once a week.

Some dragons will enthusiastically eat certain leaves and
flowers, while others will refuse. For dragons that accept them,
fresh leaves and flowers should be offered on a regular basis.
Some plants can induce diarrhea, and others are toxic or provide
little or no nutritional value (e.g., iceberg lettuce), so be careful
what you offer. The most popular plant is the dandelion, and for
good reason. Dandelion leaves are high in calcium and Vitamin

Central Netted Dragons relish small insects such as crickets and woodies.

Central Netted Dragons are sexually dimorphic as seen here with the smaller female in front.



A, and dragons usually love the young flower buds. Bok Choy
also is high in calcium and Vitamin A and seems to be accepted
by dragons that enjoy dandelions. Hibiscus flowers also are a
favorite, but be sure they have not been exposed to pesticides or
insecticides.

Breeding
For breeding purposes, your dragons need to be healthy and
maintained in as natural an environment as possible in order to
encourage mating. The sex of a Central Netted Dragon can be
determined by comparing the following characteristics: (1) Males
have a larger head-to-body ratio compared to females; (2) males
have larger and more distinct femoral pores (located on the
underside of hind thighs; known as pre-anal pores when situated
above the vent); (3) a male’s tail will taper gradually to the end,
whereas a female’s tail will start out thick at the vent and then rap-
idly taper for the remainder of the tail length. Accurately deter-
mining the sex of younger dragons is difficult, and the only cer-
tain way is to take the lizard to a reptile veterinarian to be probed.

Like many other lizards, Central Netted Dragons demon-
strate very interesting courtship behaviors. When a male and
female are housed together, the male will display his dominance

232 IGUANA  •  VOLUME 15, NUMBER 4  •  DECEMBER 2008 PLUMMER

A male Ctenophorus nuchalis bites a female’s nape while attempting
copulation.

A hatchling may take several hours or even more than a day to fully
emerge from the egg.

A hatchling breaks through the soft egg and takes its first breath.

Hatchling Ctenophorus nuchalis are tiny (seen here next to an Australian
20-cent piece).

The enlarged abdomen of this female indicates that she is gravid and
due to lay soon.



IGUANA  •  VOLUME 15, NUMBER 4  •  DECEMBER 2008 233HUSBANDRY

by vigorous head bobbing and chasing the female around the
enclosure. The female will respond with subdued head bobbing
and slow arm waving as signs of submission. The male will
attempt to bite the female at the back of the neck and then mate
with her.

Females are oviparous (= egg laying), laying 2–3 clutches of
2–6 eggs during spring and summer. Gravid females need warm
summer temperatures to effectively develop eggs. A specific cov-
ered area filled with moistened sand or vermiculite is most
appropriate as a nesting site. The same medium is used during
the incubation process. Covering the nesting area enables the
female to feel less vulnerable, especially if she is still housed with
the male.

Be careful if you have water bowls in the enclosure, as
gravid females may use these for nesting areas, which will spoil
the eggs. They may want to drink regularly, so providing regu-
lar access to water is important, although this should be super-
vised until eggs are deposited. The female will become quite
restless prior to laying her eggs and will dig all over the enclo-
sure looking for the perfect spot. A gravid female usually will
stop eating during the weeks prior to laying. You will notice
that after she has laid, she will seem to have suddenly lost a sub-
stantial amount of weight. This is the best indication that the
enclosure needs to be searched carefully for eggs. When you
locate the eggs, they should be carefully excavated without

being turned. The soft leathery white eggs should be handled
with care and placed in the incubation medium in the same ori-
entation in which they were found. Eggs should be incubated
at temperatures of 28–32 °C (82–90 °F) and will take 8–11
weeks to hatch.

Hatchlings require considerably more care than juveniles or
adults. They should not be housed with older dragons, as they
will be seen as food and quickly killed. Keep them in a very sim-
ple set-up at first. Use damp paper towel as flooring and provide
a basking area and several retreats in various temperature ranges.
Keep the paper towel moist by misting with filtered water sev-
eral times a day for the first week or so, and once a day there-
after. Offer food immediately. Suitable prey includes small crick-
ets and tiny woodies, as well as access to fresh, finely chopped
dandelion leaves. 

Hatchlings quickly establish a hierarchy.

Central Netted Dragons (Ctenophorus nuchalis) will reward proper
housing and care with a calm temperament, a willingness to interact
with the keeper, and, if desired, a disposition to reproduce in captivity.




