International Journal of Environmental, Sustainability, and Social Sciences ISSN 2720-9644 (print); ISSN 2721-0871 (online) https://journalkeberlanjutan.com/index.php/ijesss 472 APPLICATION OF THE CO-CREATION CONCEPT OF WRITTEN BATIK DESIGN FOR FASHION DESIGN IN THE TEENAGE AND CURRENT MARKET SEGMENT Volume: 3 Number: 2 Page: 472 - 480 1Rahayu RAHAYU, 2Sudarmiatin SUDARMIATIN, 3Agus HERMAWAN 1,2,3Management Science of Doctoral Programme, State University of Malang, Indonesia Corresponding author: Rahayu E-mail: rahayusemsi.2104139@student.um.ac.id Article History: Received: 2022-05-18 Revised: 2022-05-15 Accepted: 2022-07-18 Abstract: Entering the era of globalization, business development in any field has challenges, with so many varied Batik market segments, it is necessary to develop a more appropriate design by involving consumers to provide ideas or, more precisely, holding a co-creation of batik motifs by involving consumers from several market segments. Through the use of the co-creation concept, the purpose of this research is to transform a written batik product design based on local knowledge into a fashion design for the youth and contemporary market segment. This concept is a concept that gives consumers the freedom of ideas to create designs or revise existing designs according to the wishes of consumers. However, within the limits provided by the Kudubanjar Batik Center as a producer, so with innovation and creation, new values will emerge in the design. Fashion for the teen and contemporary market segments because currently consumers tend to be able to play a role in the desired fashion design process. The method used for this design is to conduct FGD research to explore alternative fashion design creations. From the results of the FGD, a design sketch is prepared, which is then used as a guide for co-creation. Besides that, consumers are also free to design according to their wishes and current design trends. Based on the results of the research that has been done, there are eight fashion designs with the creation and innovation of batik motif designs designed based on local wisdom. Keywords: Fashion Design, Youth, Contemporary, Co-Creation. Cite this as: RAHAYU., SUDARMIATIN., HERMAWAN, A. (2022) “Application of the Co-Creation Concept of Written Batik Design for Fashion Design in the Teenage and Current Market Segment.” International Journal of Environmental, Sustainability, and Social Sciences, 3(2), 472 – 480. INTRODUCTION The development of the business environment is dynamic, for every company, both large and small companies, such as IKM is required to improve its competitiveness. Entering the era of globalization, business development in any field has challenges. Every entrepreneur faces the opening of regional boundaries and competitive boundaries. Economic activities depend on free and open global competition where only strong and resilient business actors will win and continue to exist. With the rapid changes in the external environment in the free market, companies must anticipate these changes dynamically, namely by formulating the right business strategy and sharpening their competitive advantage on an ongoing basis so that the company continues to exist and even can improve its performance. The impact of the global market, among others, is the number of foreign products entering Indonesia, so business competition is getting tougher. Competition is very tight, and the easier access of consumers to companies makes choices of goods/services, increasing market opportunities. This condition causes consumer demands to be higher. Companies must meet consumer demands in order to exist in business competition. Existence in the global market requires innovation and the creation in competitive strategies to win customers. Particular strategies are needed to improve and change the shape of business processes to bring products or services closer to consumers. It is hoped that implementing the Co- creation concept will make it easier for manufacturers to get customized products and reach out to companies. With these problems, it is necessary to improve the ability of SMEs to design products mailto:rahayusemsi.2104139@student.um.ac.id International Journal of Environmental, Sustainability, and Social Sciences ISSN 2720-9644 (print); ISSN 2721-0871 (online) https://journalkeberlanjutan.com/index.php/ijesss 473 with efforts to create creations and art with various new designs. With so many varied batik market segments, it is necessary to develop a more appropriate design by involving consumers to provide ideas or, more precisely, holding a co-creation of batik motifs by involving consumers from several market segments. The Kudubanjar Batik Tulis Center is one of the written batik centers that focus on developing the design of written batik motifs based on East Java's local wisdom and IT. Responding to reasonably good market response, this center is developing its products in a new segment, namely by presenting its handmade batik products which have been marketed in the form of cloth and then developed in fashion design, the application of the co-creation concept in developing fashion designs for the youth and contemporary market segments is carried out by how to engage consumers. Value co-creation is one way to design products involving consumers (Botti et al., 2017). Looking at the varied market segments (teenagers and contemporary) co- creation can be used as an illustration of design variations based on consumer desires because it depicts what each segment wants for the product of interest. With the help of technology, various motifs will be easily made with various variations and interesting color variations. It is essential to do in order to obtain a unique design that contains the high cultural value. Changes in the design of batik motifs by the wishes and needs of consumers in each market segment with creations and fashion trends will improve the image of the product in the domestic and international markets, increase sales volume, increase the commodity value of regional mainstay products, increase the diversity of motifs, introduce the identity of hand-drawn batik. For each region, economic growth in general and people's income in particular increase. Different product designs have unique characteristics and are supported by affordable prices, and easy access to a product will increase sales volume. The development of a unique design can increase the value received by the customer. Products with high value will be the choice of customers, meaning that it will increase market share, which can improve company performance. The development of batik motif designs involving consumer ideas is expected to increase revenue generation (profits) directly or indirectly for entrepreneurs. It can also save high costs (cost cutting) because all processes are automated. Through efforts to implement internetworking, SMEs can efficiently work with large companies to offer consumers a wide range of products. Thus, it is hoped that the IKM market share will increase and can increase regional economic growth, especially in East Java. In addition to economic growth, the development of batik motif designs will absorb much labor due to the increasing volume of product orders. It will help the government to tackle the unemployment problem creatively. The tendency of specific market communities who like to design their own desired product (customization) strategies that involve consumers to be creative and innovate in determining the design or some of the product's characteristics will create a network of cooperation in realizing the products that consumers want (Choi et al., 2016). Utilizing customer co-creation to encourage innovation is a fundamental step of cooperation between companies and customers so that they can exchange ideas and opinions, create new products and services, and get suggestions according to each customer's experience (Cepeda et al., 2016). Customer co-creation should be used more and more in implementing marketing strategies because by doing Customer Co-Creation, customers will get products and services as they want, at least closer. (Adner and Kapoor, 2010). The company will profit more because it can sell something the market is looking for (Foglieni and Holmlid, 2017). This collaboration with customers can be done at various stages, for example, from the initial ideas and business strategies stage to when designing advanced concepts (Hadjielias, 2017). Innovation is essential for the firms’ survival. Co-creation acts as a problem-solving element for the firms to survive. In particular, cooperation through co-creation will facilitate access to new resources, intangible capabilities, innovation, and a greater adaptation to enormously dynamic environments. Therefore, organizations need to take advantage of the involvement of customers and other stakeholders because they can offer new and unique resources, such as knowledge and experience. However, although this is a very topical subject, there has been a lack of research in International Journal of Environmental, Sustainability, and Social Sciences ISSN 2720-9644 (print); ISSN 2721-0871 (online) https://journalkeberlanjutan.com/index.php/ijesss 474 the field of industrial marketing on procedures and methods for establishing effective processes of co-creation to encourage innovation in the development of solutions and to promote market sensing. This article aims to contribute to the discussion by analyzing how value co-creation can influence firms’ performance and how market sensing affects value co-creation. In particular, we aim to answer the question of how to create product innovation and market sensing through co- creation to enhance firms’ performance. In terms of benefits, Customer Co-Creation makes companies more concerned with customer needs, improves good relationships with customers, increases innovation success, accelerates product deployment in the market, reduces the risk of loss, increases customer satisfaction, and certainly increases profits for the company. (Fatemeh and Naser. 2017) There are five customer co-creation types: (1) Workshop, where the target user is involved in a brainstorming session to create or refine a product idea. Co-Creation workshops are perfect for getting more information about customer needs or finding relatively easy ideas to implement in the short, medium, or long term. (2) Crowdsourcing in this type of company sets out a question or problem to the public and offers a prize for the winning idea. Interaction with customers is minimal because the ideas are developed by themselves. An example of the implementation of Crowdsourcing is when a company needs a solution to a technical problem, looks for inspiration on new product development and gets free publicity on a product to be launched. (3) This type of open source involves a large number of volunteers actively involved in developing and maintaining the product. Open source is often applied to software development. It is especially suitable if the company wants to set new technical standards. (4) Mass customization, customers can make their own product designs within a framework that the company has determined. Custom is a famous term, so customers can determine the color, shape and material they want. Mass customization has a positive impact on brand positioning and makes regular customers become ambassadors for the company's products. (5). User-Generated Content in this type, customers create their own products and share them through platforms or systems. This trick is appropriate for digital products or services. If the platform can be developed and managed properly, it will help the deployment process. There are also several keys to the success of this Customer Co-Creation. First, share information with customers. You do not have to worry about 'missing' ideas. Instead, by sharing ideas or information, you will get more feedback. Second, be honest with potential customers. Today's customers are getting smarter and more observant, so do not forget to give them factual information. Lastly, be sincerely interested. That is, if you are interested in the ideas they convey, dig as much as possible to become a product that can be launched into the market (Jaludin and Cheng, 2017) Co-creation is applied because this center has a unique market with a relatively high number of requests where every motif variation can be offered in various fashion designs with various fashion designs. Based on this description, it is hoped that the application of the co-creation concept is the right choice to be used as a medium to produce variations of fashion designs because these designs will approach consumer tastes according to the times and designs that are up to date for various groups. Thus attractive products will be able to create value and competitiveness and attract consumers to buy. Value co-creation makes the maximum capital increase for the firms. The study of Aspara & Tikkanen (2012) discusses two strategies of value creation as value capture— strategies that ensure that the maximum value of the portion captured or provided by the firm itself is in the form of profits, instead of members of the value chain or competitors. Meanwhile, value creation is a strategy that refers to the value of the utility (benefit) in which products or other offers of the company are created by the customers This research aims to develop a written batik product design based on local wisdom into a fashion design for the youth and contemporary market segment by applying the co-creation concept. Based on the description above, it can be concluded that the formulation of the problem from this research is how to develop the design of batik motifs based on local wisdom into fashion International Journal of Environmental, Sustainability, and Social Sciences ISSN 2720-9644 (print); ISSN 2721-0871 (online) https://journalkeberlanjutan.com/index.php/ijesss 475 designs for the youth and contemporary market segments through the application of the co- creation concept in order to obtain creative and innovative designs to increase competitiveness. So the author decided to make a study entitled "Application of The Co-Creation Concept of Written Batik Design for Fashion Design in the Teenage and Current Market Segment". METHODS The design of this study is exploratory research using a qualitative approach carried out with a Focus Group Discussion (FGD), which aims to determine the creation and combination of motifs for fashion design of batik motifs based on local wisdom and IT. In addition to the FGD, an experimental research approach was also used in making creations and fashion designs from the design of written batik motifs through digital design applications. The research population with FGDs are all parties related to the development of IKM, namely stakeholders from the IKM business, including the Department of Industry, Consumer Protection Agency, Providers, Entrepreneurs, and Consumers, both existing and potential. The number of teams in the FGD is 10-15. The population for experimental research is existing consumers and potential consumers in the youth and contemporary market segments. The sample was determined by purposive sampling of 30 respondents. In the experimental stage or at the time of co-creation, it is required for consumers who can operate computers with the Corel program. Data triangulation will analyze valid data from FGD Research with qualitative descriptions. Based on the qualitative description, the respondents (existing and potential consumers) were asked to do co-creation, evaluating the design results, adding creations and even being free to innovate batik designs based on local wisdom and IT to be developed in fashion design for the youth market segment and contemporary. RESULT AND DISCUSSION In general, batik activists in East Java are familiar with digital product design, but they have not been able to apply it. Batik malls that are made only duplicate existing motifs. When they create new designs, on average, they share them with people who can make pictures or people who have artistic talent. At the Kudubanjar Batik Center, batik activists use IT experts to create digital designs for further transfer in the form of batik malls that are ready to be duplicated in ready-to-process batik fabrics (painted, dyed, rolled down to the packaging. This center produces each motif according to its design. Schedule an edition of what motifs should be produced to obtain detailed responses from customers or consumers. Due to a large number of consumer demands for clothing products, this center began to try to develop fashion designs for the youth and the current market. Based on the results of the FGD related to various inputs regarding the creation of combinations between unique motifs and motives, along with a summary of the opinions of the FGD results from the participants represented by several participants related to consumer involvement in making changes and pouring out ideas about designs that are current and up to date trends: "The combination of contrasting local wisdom motifs will be more interesting with a prominent uniqueness, a combination in the middle, collar and sleeves" (Disperindag, 35 years). The comments about the same thing, as well as supporting the previous opinion, are as follows: "I tried it with a local wisdom batik motif design with a plain combination that also looks more elegant" (Fashion dress designer, 27 years old). "I tried two similar batik motifs to be combined and used plain variations as a combination to enhance the motif's appearance to make it look more elegant" (potential consumer/batik collector, 32 years old. From several opinions expressed starting from the FGD with competent parties, among others, the Department of Industry and Trade, batik activists, potential customers, in this case, batik collectors, consumer protection agencies and others, then the design sketch is made. Fashion for the youth and contemporary market segments are then used as directions so that consumers involved in co-creation refer to the existing sketches and are also given the freedom to design according to their tastes. Then the results of these experiments can be presented in the following table: International Journal of Environmental, Sustainability, and Social Sciences ISSN 2720-9644 (print); ISSN 2721-0871 (online) https://journalkeberlanjutan.com/index.php/ijesss 476 Table 1. Summary of Fashion Design Criteria for the Youth person h and Contemporary Market segment Based on FGD Results No. Design Fashion Design Creation Amount Participant 1. Present Contemporary a) The combination of two local kearian motifs 5 person b) Combination with plain fabric 3 person c) Mini mode 2 person 2. Teenager a) fashionable impression with bright colors 4 person b) feminine with a combination of various motifs 2 person c) the dominance of plain color or the dominance of batik 4 person Source: Primary Data Based on the inputs summarized in the table above, the researchers made several design sketches for research experiments with consumers. As previously explained, co-creation was carried out at this stage to get various creations made by consumers in two ways. First, the researcher provides design sketches for the contemporary and youth market segments. This technique is intended for consumers to evaluate or express ideas related to existing designs. The two researchers provided a refined written batik motif design without a fashion design sketch. This technique is intended for consumers to make creations according to their ideas to get up-to- date fashion designs. The following results from Co-creation's design for the youth and contemporary market segment. Source: primary data Figure 1. The result of the Co-creation of Fashion Design Consumers for Youth and Contemporary Market Segments From the results of the creations made by consumers, both in terms of evaluating the available sketches and innovations from consumer ideas, eight (8) design combinations with attractive color combinations and motifs were obtained. The combination of local wisdom motifs between regions and within one district combined in one design can reach a broader market even International Journal of Environmental, Sustainability, and Social Sciences ISSN 2720-9644 (print); ISSN 2721-0871 (online) https://journalkeberlanjutan.com/index.php/ijesss 477 though the batik is classified as identity batik. It is because it is unique and has a prominent character as a fashion design, as explained by consumers when creating their designs. It inspires the idea that what teenagers like must be able to display elegant characteristics and match the color and motif modes. In contrast, contemporary designs must display style, spectacular, flexibility and attractiveness. When designing them, the average consumer is inspired by well-known artists and designers' designs and current trending designs so that what is produced will receive positive comments from batik collectors, designer experts and potential buyers. The availability of sketches that are ready to be revised evaluated, combined or changed with new ideas that have been carried out has been prepared in digital form to facilitate this experimentation process, as well as when expressing new ideas or innovations with various motifs, color compatibility or various types of sizes and color combinations and matching motifs. The first fashion design (1) is a combination of local wisdom batik motifs from Sunan Sendang Duwur from Lamongan Regency, combined with bright pink plain cloth for youth and contemporary segments. This design can be adapted for work clothes with a combination of feminine bottoms. The second fashion design (2) with the colorful flower motif of Sekar Waru, which is the batik motif of Jombang Regency, consumers give a plain combination to display a bright impression and is suitable for the youth and contemporary market segment. This design can also be used for formal clothes in the office. The third fashion design (3) is a floral design creation that is carved on the walls of the Tegowangi temple from Kediri Regency combined with a plain collar with a circle pattern with a plain combination on the skirt combined with the relief motif of the Surowono temple which is a historical relic of the Majapahit Kingdom in the area. Pare, Kediri Regency. The fourth design (4) is the creation of consumers for the batik motif of Candi Arimbi, a motif of local wisdom from Jombang Regency, with an elegant color that is a combination of yellow gold and black combined with plain yellow gold color. The resulting fashion design looks elegant and suitable for casual or party clothes. In line with the same motif, the fifth (5) fashion design is also combined with a plain yellow gold color for a youth design. The sixth design (6) combines remo dance design with wono sengon tunggorono, a batik motif design of local wisdom from Jombang. The elegant combination with the beige color is suitable for the youth and contemporary market segments to be used on formal occasions. The seventh (7) design is specially designed for teenage boys. This design combines the arimbi temple batik motif and the remo dance, both of which are local wisdom batik motifs from Jombang Regency. This design is an innovation from consumers who are batik collectors in East Java. Likewise, the eighth fashion design (8) combines two designs, namely the Sunan Sendang Duwur and Wono Sengon Tunggorono motifs, combined with plain blue and black colors. This design is for teenagers. Here are some consumer considerations about designs made through the co-creation process. That some consumer considerations why buy batik products with fashion designs for the youth and contemporary market segments, among others, because the products offered are unique and have high artistic value contained in written batik. Each motif displays its meaning, what consumers expect as batik connoisseurs are artistic values, elegant impressions, and unique and even illustrating cultural values. Like the batik design with the Asmat ethnic motif, this design displays uniqueness and elevates local wisdom. Designs like this have a high cultural value and are very trendy, so they are called contemporary batik designs, designs like this are what consumers want. The following is the input desired by batik consumers. Meanwhile, opinions from supervisors such as the Department of Industry and Trade, which are the object of this research, fully support the development of written batik product designs in the IKM they foster. Some of these agencies have provided training on making batik designs, as was done in Jombang Regency, so that SMEs can increase their competitiveness. The training, which was held by cross-agency, namely the Koperindag Service and the Dinsosnakertran Service, did produce results. The design was to lift the relief motif of the Arimbi Temple Crown in written batik. Even the local government has protected it as a motif characteristic of the Jombang area in International Journal of Environmental, Sustainability, and Social Sciences ISSN 2720-9644 (print); ISSN 2721-0871 (online) https://journalkeberlanjutan.com/index.php/ijesss 478 the patent law. Almost all batik activists in Jombang already have computers, so if training is held, it can be done quickly. The average batik activist wants to be able to design digital products. Most of the training results are still limited to the coloring process, some can design digitally but their abilities are also not optimal. Information technology (IT) expert informs what is needed/required in making product designs with technological applications such as how to take good product pictures and make attractive product descriptions. What if you do not have a crafting talent? In this case, it is required at least to have aspirations for the form/design that will be made because the application of technology is much easier even though the ability possessed is applied art. The more aspirations, the more variations of designs that will be made. If there are already basic images taken from temple reliefs or other images, it is easier to use technology in the design process. The costs incurred are more efficient if the computer is already available. Based on the results of the FGD, especially the input from the Koperindag Service and IT experts and the readiness of batik activists to learn to design by applying technology, they also have high motivation to design. It is the essential capital owned by the IKM, and intensive training and training needs to be carried out by the government and other parties that support the growth and development of IKM. The various hopes expressed by batik activists, as well as the government's efforts to provide guidance, are very supportive of the development of written batik designs, especially IT experts also ensure that product design development with technology applications can be done with applied knowledge. This condition makes it easier for written batik activists to inspire motifs and designs for various market segments that allow them to be entered optimally. They are required to make their variations because the basic motifs already exist. The ability and imagination of a person are different, and this will be able to enrich the written batik designs produced by the IKM. Raising local wisdom in batik is also a way of preserving culture and introducing cultural heritage to generations of nations and other countries that know Indonesia as a country rich in culture. Referring to the expert opinion of the designer of written batik products that the reliefs of temples and natural tourist attractions and pilgrimage tours are magnificent if used as batik motifs but need creations from designers, batik with Asmat ethnic motifs is currently a trending batik because the design contains the uniqueness where traditional motifs but with the creation and application of technology can make this motif modern so that there are many consumer responses from various market segments. Therefore, the same thing as temple reliefs and elements of local wisdom that exist in an area can also be appointed as batik motifs. CONCLUSION The conclusions that can be drawn from the results of this study are: 1. It can be seen that the development of wisdom-based batik products into fashion design in the youth and contemporary market segment has not been widely carried out in East Java, especially in Indonesia in general. There is no design with East Javanese local wisdom motifs designed through the concept of co-creation that Facilitate customers in determining their own desired design in making product designs. Product design with the application of the co- creation concept will be more effective if the template or basic design is an essential design because the co-creation system allows customers to be creative with what they want but still within limits set by the batik center. This co-creation method has the advantage that the batik center IT application as a producer provides several options such as designs, colors, motifs, combinations, and others. It can create many different new design possibilities according to customer wishes. 2. The drawback of implementing this co-creation concept is that customers have to get designs that are trending and suitable for the targeted market segment so that they can gain a broad market share when a market test is held. International Journal of Environmental, Sustainability, and Social Sciences ISSN 2720-9644 (print); ISSN 2721-0871 (online) https://journalkeberlanjutan.com/index.php/ijesss 479 3. The design must have a prominent appeal in the product's characteristics. In this design, consumers use the concept of the "Neo Medival” trend forecast in determining colors, motifs, and impressions. Thus, it is hoped that the fashion designs produced in this study can enrich fashion design. REFERENCES Adner, R., & Kapoor, R. 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