PME I J https://ojs.upv.es/index.php/IJPME International Journal of Production Management and Engineering http://dx.doi.org/10.4995/ijpme.2014.1744 Received 2013-10-08 - Accepted 2014-05-22 Textile industry can be less pollutant: introducing naturally colored cotton Solimar Garciai*and Irenilza de Alencar Nääsii Universidade Paulista UNIP - Rua Dr. Bacelar, 1212, 4º andar, Vila Clementino, São Paulo, SP, CEP: 04026-002, Brazil. i solimargarcia10@gmail.com ii irenilza@gmail.com Abstract: Studies in agribusiness and textile industry, both involved with the production of manufacturing fashion presents insufficient development for new products that could represent water savings or reduction of chemical effluents, making this production chain a a sustainable business. This paper introduces the colored and organic cotton as an alternative to foster colored cotton producing farmers and improving the concept of sustainability in the textile sector. Results show that the increase in the production of colored and organic cotton may result in reduction of water use, and consequent reduction in the disposal of effluents in nature. As the colored and organic cotton is produced by small farmers, governmental agencies are required to participate in the effort of improving its production and distribution, providing the needed infrastructure to meet the increasing business. This action would slowly encourage the reduction of white cotton consumption in exchange for this naturally colored product. The water used, and consequent polluted discharge in the use of colored cotton in the textile industry might be reduced by 70%, assuming a reduction of environmental impact of 5% per year would represent expressive numbers in the next ten years. Key words: Agribusiness Chain, Supply Chain, Sustainability in the Fashion Industry. 1. Introduction Worldwide the production of cotton fibers reach 70 million tons per year, occupying near 10% of arable land, reaching 34 million ha. The consumption of cotton in the textile fiber chain reaches 24.6 million tons per year transforming into various garments for apparel, hospitals linen, uniforms, etc. The textile chain has a turnover of US$ 400 billion per year (Mapa, 2012). Brazil is the fourth largest producer of apparel, and it is the world’s fifth largest producer, with near 30 thousand industries, which manufactures annually, near 10 billion pieces, and employing (directly and indirectly) 8 million workers, representing 16.4% of formal employment in the country. The sector revenues reached U.S. $ 60.5 billion in 2011, representing 3.5% of Brazilian total GDP, and 5.5% of the manufacturing industry in the country’s GDP, a growth that exceeded 10% compared to 2010 (Abit, 2012). Brazil has the highest productivity rates among leading cotton producer countries. As a result from the investigation for almost 20 years of Embrapa Cotton (Brazilian Enterprise in Agriculture, a governmental agency) a genetic seed of colored cotton was developed, along with special experience in its production, processing and marketing. Available in different shades of brown, the agroecological cotton does not need to be tinted, and because of that it does not impact either in peoples’ health or the environment. The cotton cultivated variety was developed to minimize the use of chemical during production and processing, being a product that can be used by the organic market (Table 4, Figure 1). According to Beltrão et al. (2009), this production has been developed mainly in the Northeast of Brazil, especially in the state of Paraiba and put Brazil in the global market of organic cotton. To keep the business at a fair price, however, quality and reliability of production needs to be dependable for ensuring the availability of jobs in family farming (Cartaxo et al., 2008). From 2007, 265,517 bales of organic cotton were produced in 24 countries, and global production grew almost 50% per year (Ota, 2009). This paper deals with the production of agro- 85Int. J. Prod. Manag. Eng. (2014) 2(2), 85-91Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International http://dx.doi.org/10.4995/ijpme.2014.1744 http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/ ecological and colored cotton as a real possibility of sustainable product for Brazilian agribusiness, showing the benefits in terms of water saving and effluent reduction in relation to the production of white cotton, over a period of ten years. 2. Methodology A literature review was done on the subject of cotton and colored cotton production. Data were collected in former studies on the production of colored and organic cotton including the quantification of industries’ use of water, quantity and quality of effluents, and chemicals involved in the various phases of processing (Galindo et al., 2001; Sauer, 2002; Beltrão and Carvalho, 2004; Forgiarini, 2006; Beltrão et al., 2009; Abit, 2012). Data on sustainability principles and social responsibility regarding family farming was also searched (Refosco et al., 2011; Abreu et al., 2012; Baskaran et al., 2012). This study was approved by the Ethics Committee of the Universidade Paulista. The figures obtained were subjected to a descriptive analysis to present a projection on possible savings in water use when colored cotton is used when compared to white cotton. Reduction of effluent was also accounted when considering the textile industrial processes. 3. Results and Discussion 3.1. Textile production chain chemical components output Fashion production chain is represented by several industries such as agroindustry and the chemical industry fueling its main stream (spinning, weaving, knitting and non-woven materials (Mendes, 2010). These cotton fibers supply the clothing industry to cater to the customer for different types of retail, and this value chain is highly polluting and aggressive by nature excessive water consumption (Table 3), as well as by dumping effluents in nature (Table 1). Studying ten cotton processing textile industries, Martins (1997) identified the reject the industry produces. These processes occur at all stages of the textile industry (manufacturing synthetic fibers and natural, spinning, weaving and knitting, pretreatment of fabrics, dyeing, printing, finishing, manufacturing, retail) (Forgiarini, 2006). The use of water in the processing phases for producing 1 ton of knitting is also very high. Table 2 shows that the reduction on the use of water is approximately 70% for processing the colored and ecologic cotton, as indicated by Baskaran et al. (2012). The study of the chemical processes involved in the textile industry uses large amounts of water, and the environment around it becomes contaminated by chemicals and dyes after the industrial process. The waste in all its states (solid, liquid and gaseous), and the operations of bleaching dyeing and finishing effluents emit various chemical, which can cause problems for people and the environment when improperly discarded. The processing of cotton yarn is also to various processes for transforming raw materials of the textile articles in a natural state white, dyed, printed and finished as well as downsizing, produce polluting effluents. In the complexity surrounding the textile chain, there are still wet finishing processes in which prepares the fabric to be dyed, print by color or design or receive finishing. Substances such as water, resins, dyes and surfactants are used in this phase of the process (Forgiarini, 2006). The main chemical products and dyes found in textile effluent are from various origins (Martins, 1997), and the author highlights the most polluting Table 1. Dejects generated in the production process (source: Adapted from Beltrão et al. (2004); Galindo et al. (2001) and Martins (1997)). Phase Components of the dejects Pre-ironing Humectants, salts, caustic soda, and peroxide Ironing Starch and synthetic gums based on poly-acrylate Bleaching Humectants, salts, caustic soda, sequestrates, peroxide and / or chlorine and neutralizers Dyeing Colorants, sequestrates, salts, caustic soda and / or kelp Stamping Dyes, caustic soda and gums Washing Detergents Softening Softeners and sliding Table 2. Basic water consumption for producing 1 ton of processed 1 ton of white cotton (source: the authors). Water consumption for processing (1 ton/month) Unit (L/month) White cotton 30 103 Colored or ecologic cotton 9 103 86 Int. J. Prod. Manag. Eng. (2014) 2(2), 85-91 Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International Garcia, S. & de Alencar Nääs, I. http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/ dyes and the most commonly found in the industries visited for their study. The author indicates that products, which are derived from sulfur dyes, exhibit more contaminated effluents, and presents the most chemicals used in textile production (Table 3). A projection for the use of mesh chemicals for producing approximately 1000 tons of textile/month is projected in table 3. Representing 25% of the Brazilian industrial sector, the textile segment of the state of Santa Catarina is one which somehow neglects the impact this activity may cause to the environment, producing excessive amounts of toxic effluents without treatment (Sauer, 2002). Estimation for the use of mesh chemicals for producing approximately 1000 tons of textile/month is projected showing a significant number of effluents, agreeing with Galindo et al. (2001) and Herrmann et al. (2011) and representing a significant impact on environmental contamination and aquatic life. The authors state that about 1% to 15% of the dyes used by the textile industries are lost in the dyeing process and, in overall, released in effluents, These findings also agree with other authors (Herrmann et al., 2011), and table 4 shows data related to this issue. These results on the reduction of polluted wastewater and water consumption would be an attractive argument for improving production of colored and agroecological cotton, or investing more in research and development of this product. However, the government’s investment in new technologies is primarily directed to large agricultural enterprises, leaving the small farmers with little if none support. Table 4 shows the use of water and waste dumped in nature in the past ten years, during the production of cotton. The production of cotton designed with the same consumption for the next 10 years is shown in table 5. Data on table 6 show cotton production with a reduction of 5%, which would be a possibility of increasing production of colored cotton, reducing water usage, and also projecting 5% reduction in waste over the next ten years. In table 6, it can be observed the development of the next ten years, from one production of white cotton 5% lower than expected, which could be transformed Table 3. Basic consumption of chemical products used in usual textile industry and the effluent which pollute the environment, compared to naturally colored cotton (source: adapted from Galindo et al. (2001) and Martins (1997)). Chemical products Basic consumption (t/month) Basic Consumption (t/month/year) Assumption (av. of 10% t/month) Effluents (av. of 10% t/month/year) Salt 60 720 103 12 144 103 Peroxide 8 96 103 1,6 19 103 Kelp 15 180 103 3 36 103 Acetic acid 3 36 103 0,6 7 103 Other acids 60 720 103 12 144 103 Reactive dyes 3.2 38 103 0,64 7,680 Sulfur dyes 6.9 82 103 1,38 16,560 Total 312.2 t/month 1,873 103 31.22 t/month 374,640 Table 4. Total of production, water consumption and chemical effluents in ten year ago with cotton production (source: IEMI (2012); Mapa (2012)). Year Production 1000 tons H2O Consumption 1000 tons Chemical Effluents 1000 tons 2000/2001 1.511 543.960 106 566.081.106 2001/2002 1.245 448.200 106 466.426. 106 2002/2003 1.365 491.400 106 511.383. 106 2003/2004 2.099 755.640 106 786.369. 106 2004/2005 2.129 766.440 106 797.608. 106 2005/2006 1.038 373.680 106 388.876. 106 2006/2007 1.524 548.640 106 570.951. 106 2007/2008 1.602 576.720 106 600.173. 106 2008/2009 1.411 507.960 106 528.617. 106 2009/2010 1.194 429.840 106 447.320. 106 2010/2011 2.052 738.720 106 768.761. 106 Total 17.170 6.181.200 106 6.432.568. 106 87Int. J. Prod. Manag. Eng. (2014) 2(2), 85-91Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International Textile industry can be less pollutant: introducing naturally colored cotton http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/ in cotton production and organic colored. It can also be noted the result in the reduction of water use of 70% (for these 5% less), and also assume a drop of 5% per year in the fall of effluents dumped in nature in the same period (Mapa, 2012). The intensive use of the raw material for textile industries (Damiano, 2003), and the increasing interest by consumers in the use of green products (Demir et al., 2010), has led to the augment in the research on colored fibers. The focus has been mainly to reduce the use of dyes, as it is a carcinogenic material (Ramalho et al., 2010). However, the colors of the fibers influence the technological nature of the final product (Carvalho and Santos, 2003). According to Pan et al. (2010 ) genotypes, with colored fibers produce a higher amount of wax, which has a negative effect on the production of cellulose, reducing the quality of the fibers produced. For these reasons, search the cotton fiber color shifts to other regions not only in Northeast Brazil and Embrapa Cotton led researchers to Paraná, because of the recent price increases of the product on site (Bellettini, 2011). The researchers sought to examine technological features of colored cotton with the potential to be grown in the northern State of Paraná, and according to the methodologies used, the colored cultivars obtained inferior in length (uniformity index and short fiber length and strength). A study of Carvalho et al. (2005) also shows that the average colored cotton is 10% lower than white, as well as the characteristics of its fibers, are inferior. The author showed that genetic selection for stronger color intensity may results in negative effects on the fiber. Limited results on this subject are due to lack of studies using the colored cottons, which has been subjected to intense research and development as it occurred with the white fiber. Table 7 presents the chronological steps towards the development of the colored cotton in Brazil. There are cultivars being planted in the Northeastern of Brazil, in the state of Paraiba, in small family farms. Figure 1 shows various kinds of colors cotton fibers. Fashion has been innovative in the use of synthetic fibers (composed by artificial, natural and mixed), but these innovations do not necessarily translate into environmental concerns. They only combine changes in relation to the style, the design, the artificial tissues, adding unique features for use Table 5. Projection, water consumption and chemical effluents in next ten years (source: adapted IEMI (2012), Mapa (2012)). Year Projection 1000 tons H2O Consumption 1000 tons Chemical Effluents 1000 tons 2011/2012 2.155 775.800 106 807.349 106 2012/2013 1.563 562.680 106 585.562 106 2013/2014 1.543 555.480 106 578.069 106 2014/2015 2.309 831.240 106 865.043 106 2015/2016 2.504 901.440 106 938.098 106 2016/2017 1.912 688.320 106 716.311 106 2017/2018 1.892 681.120 106 708.818 106 2018/2019 2.658 956.880 106 995.793 106 2019/2020 2.853 1.027.080 106 1.068.847 106 2020/2021 2.261 813.960 106 847.061 106 2021/2022 2.241 806.760 106 839.568 106 Total 23.891 8.600.760 106 8.950.524 106 Table 6. Next 10 years with production 5 percent of colored and organic cotton and suppose reduction in use of water and 5% reduce year per year in chemical effluents (source: adapted IEMI (2012), Mapa (2012)). Year Projection 1000 tons Consumption H20 Reduce 70% Chemical Effluents (mil/t) Reduction of 5% per year 2011/2012 2.047 736.918 103 766.888 106 2012/2013 1.484 534.238 103 555.965 106 2013/2014 1.465 527.398 103 548.847 106 2014/2015 2.193 789.478 103 821.585 106 2015/2016 2.378 856.078 103 890.893 106 2016/2017 1.816 653.758 103 680.346 106 2017/2018 1.797 646.918 103 673.228 106 2018/2019 2.525 908.998 103 945.966 106 2019/2020 2.710 975.598 103 1.015.274 106 2020/2021 2.147 772.918 103 804.352 106 2021/2022 2.128 766.078 103 797.233 106 Total 22.690 8.168.384 103 8.500.581 106 Table 7. Timeline of the development of colored fibers from 2001 to 2010 (source: Adapted from Beltrão e Carvalho (2004), Embrapa Algodão (2012)). Year Event 2000 Development of the variety BRS 200 Marron 2001 Fiber color begins commercial scale in Paraíba state by small farmers 2001 Fiber color reaches 30 to 40% higher price per pound relative to white fiber in 2002 2002 Development of the variety BRS Verde 2002 Cultivation of organic fiber begins (without chemicals or fertilizers) 2002 Fiber color reaches 200% higher price per pound relative to white fiber 2005 Development of the variety BRS Rubi 2010 Development of the variety BRS Topázio 88 Int. J. Prod. Manag. Eng. (2014) 2(2), 85-91 Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International Garcia, S. & de Alencar Nääs, I. http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/ by health, sports and leisure, being supported by the chemical industry, electronics and even by nanotechnology. One feature that has been noted is the increasing use of chemical fibers at the expense of natural fibers, which have as a consequence more pollutants in industrial processes. The chemical fiber represented 62% of total consumption in 2006 to 39% in 1970, 44% in 1980 and 48% in 1990 (Garcia, 2009; Mariano, 2011). A study of socially responsible consumption of clothing by Norum and Ha-Brookshire (2011) examined the effect of fiber origin, method of production and the price in consumer preference for cotton clothing in the USA. Results showed that the price appeared as the most important criteria for the purchase of cotton products (58.5%), transparency (30%) and fibers grown with sustainable methods were cited by only 11.5% of survey 3.2. Sustainability on fashion/apparel supply chain Sustainability concepts have been discussed worldwide in several areas of knowledge and industrial production (Baskaran et al., 2012; Gri, 2010; Mariano, 2011, Wced, 1987). The annual global sales of organic cotton products, for example, grew by over 40% between 2001 and 2009 (Ota, 2009). The agroecologic cotton is produced in sustainable systems, with proper management and protection of natural resources, without the use of pesticides, genetically modified organisms, chemical fertilizers or other inputs harmful to human health, animal and the environment (Beltrão et al., 2009, Cartaxo et al., 2008). The cotton prices are defined internationally by the yarn quality which are related to the plant fibers, their length and reflectance. Produced under irrigation, cultivars with medium length fiber, cotton is not naturally white, and that makes the fiber is white and chemical methods are highly polluting, with bleaching products. If not for the action of man, there would be this level of whiteness in cotton yarn (Embrapa Algodão, 2012). There is a mutation of the cotton plant which makes possible the production of colored cotton. This production avoids dyeing process and saves water. The procedure was developed by Embrapa Cotton, Brazilian government agency which is specialized in technology transfer, and support family farming. Being organic or with conventional management grown cotton plants (not genetically modified) are certified to be produced without the use of synthetic chemicals, the cultivation of cotton colored fiber in the Northeast of Brazil through family farming has developed in former years. It also modified the behavior of farmers, seeking more efficient ways of producing with reduced waste and avoiding chemicals. The farmers also get a good price on colored cotton, when compared to white fiber (Carvalho et al., 2011). Thus, these products have attracted the attention of companies who care about environmental problems, valuing the clothing business and adding more value to the finished product (Refosco et al., 2008). The yarns produced from naturally colored fiber, undergoes fewer chemical processes, and it does not pollute the environment, besides representing a decrease of about 70% in the use of water, in the finishing process of the fabric. Currently, the social point of view, this production presents itself as a source of income for about a thousand farmers from the states of Paraíba, Pernambuco, Rio Grande do Norte and Ceará. No transgenic techniques are Figure 1. Colorful cotton fibers produced from the manual choice of seedlings. The colors vary according to the planting site (source: Embrapa Algodão (2012)). 89Int. J. Prod. Manag. Eng. (2014) 2(2), 85-91Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International Textile industry can be less pollutant: introducing naturally colored cotton http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/ used in this development (Embrapa Algodão, 2012). A study by Embrapa Cotton, which analyzes the performance of commercial BRS Brown, a research of over 15 years in the field and the laboratory, showed that the technological characteristics of fiber and yarn are produced to meet the processing improvement (Organic Cotton, 2008; Refosco et al., 2008; Mariano, 2011). 4. Final Remarks Apparently 5% reduction in the production of white cotton, reverted to the production of organic cotton and colored, seems to represent little economy in every way, even to the general development of the country. Instead, a production of only 5% organic cotton and colorful world, could represent a drive revenue in small areas of family farming, spinning craft, producing handmade clothes and many other possibilities as objects of decoration and fashion accessories. Furthermore, the water savings produced by this 5% of color cotton production and organic represent at least 70% total water used. Assuming that the development of the chemical industry would provide a 5% reduction in effluent thrown in nature in standard process, which does not exist in the production of colored cotton and organic, the result would be even more positive as the results of this study. Getting into the era of sustainability has been a requirement for large companies that want to stay in business. The agroecological production of cotton is the embryo of an idea that could have an effect on this business network that moves millions worldwide. It still could provide Brazil the pioneer in this area, and improve the income of small and medium farmers, processing companies and clothing making, the entire chain of fashion. The general awareness of people cause this change and new deeper studies on economic feasibility of production on a larger scale and colorful organic cotton, which is not yet available, one will be a pressing need to be addressed in future work on the topic. 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