Richard L. Gallo, MD1, Susana Raab2, Margarita Yatskayer2, 
Stephen Lynch2

1University of California San Diego, Department of Dermatology, San Diego, 
CA USA

2L’Oréal Research and Innovation, Clark, NJ USA

Evaluation of the Efficacy and Tolerability of a Topical Facial Serum in 
Improving Signs of Aging

INTRODUCTION
Skin is the major reservoir for hyaluronic acid
(HA) in the human body. HA is distributed
throughout the epidermal and dermal
compartments and plays an important role in
cutaneous moisture control. Decrease in HA
levels, reduction in HA size and loss of HA
functionality all directly impact the
biomechanical properties of aging skin
resulting in loss of elasticity and firmness.
Topically applied HA has traditionally been
limited to use as a humectant due to lack of
skin penetration. A topical product which could
affect endogenous HA levels would be highly
desirable as a cosmetic treatment. The goal of
the present study was to evaluate the ability of
a novel topical serum to modify histochemical
markers associated with HA and improve
visible signs of aging.

METHODS

Table 1: Expert evaluator graded skin attributes. All attributes showed 
statistical significant improvement at weeks 4, 8 and 12  vs. baseline. RESULTS

Table 2: Percentages of favorable responses from self-assessment 
questionnaires.

Baseline Week 12

Figure 1: Green color indicates HA binding protein conjugated to
streptavidin and blue color indicates DAPI counterstained cellular
nuclei. Fluorescent intensity was semi-quantitatively assessed on a
4-point scale.

Results of the expert grading showed statistically significant
improvement in firmness, density, plumpness, sagginess,
radiance, texture and skin tone evenness at weeks 4, 8 and 12
when compared to baseline (Table 1).

Bioinstrumental measurement analysis showed statistically
significant improvement in hydration (p<0.001), barrier properties
of the stratum corneum (p=0.017) and skin density (p=0.012) at
week 12 when compared to baseline.

HA staining showed statistical significant increase in HA content
after 12 weeks of product treatment (p=0.016) (Figure 1).

RT-PCR analysis showed statistical significant increase in HAS2
and Col1a1 expression after 12 weeks of product use when
compared to baseline (p=0.0008 & 0.0245, respectively).

Results from self-assessment showed favorable responses from
the subjects (Table 2).

Tolerability evaluations showed no statistical significant difference
in the objective and subjective tolerance scores when compared
to baseline.

CONCLUSIONS
This topical formulation may have significant utility for improving signs of aging skin due to a decrease in HA level, reduction in HA size,
and loss of HA functionality. In addition to the improvements observed in the clinical skin attributes, the study panel also showed
improvements in skin hydration and barrier properties of the stratum corneum, skin density, increased HA content, and an increase in
histochemical markers expression associated with HA such as HAS2 and Col1a1.

4804

A 12-week, single center, clinical study was
conducted on 59 females, ages 42-60, presenting
with mild to moderate facial sagging, loss of
firmness, rough skin texture, nasolabial fold
wrinkles, marionette wrinkles and presence of
fine lines/wrinkles in the crow’s feet area,
including those with self-perceived sensitive skin.
Efficacy and tolerability evaluations were
conducted and self-assessment questionnaires
were administered at baseline, weeks 4, 8 and
12. Bioinstrumental measurements were taken at
baseline and at week 12. Additionally, a subset of
the study population (n=20, pre-menopausal
women) had 3mm punch biopsies collected from
2 sites of the face at baseline and week 12 based
on a computer-generated randomization. 50% of
the biopsy samples were used for
immunohistochemical staining/analysis and the
remaining samples were used for quantitative RT-
PCR analysis of CD44, HAS2, HAS1, HYAL1 and
Collagen 1a1.

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Product absorbs into the skin quickly

Product feels lightweight/not heavy on the skin

Skin feels hydrated

Skin feels more supple

Skin feels smoother

Skin feels firmer

Fine lines appear minimized/ reduced

Wrinkles appear minimized/ reduced

Skin appears more healthy

Skin tone appears more even

Overall, skin quality appears improved

Overall, skin feels improved

Overall satisfaction

Week 12 Week 8 Week 4 Immediate

0

5

10

15

20

25

Firmness Density Plumpness Sagginess Radiance Tactile
texture

Skin tone
eveness

M
e

a
n

 %
 I

m
p

ro
v

e
m

e
n

t 
fr

o
m

 B
L

Week 4 Week 8 Week 12


	FC17PosterSkinceuticalsGalloEvaluationofEfficacy.pdf