http://www.archive.org/details/artofconfectiona00lamb the art of confectionary. shewing the various methods of preserving all sorts of fruits, dry and liquid; _viz._ oranges, lemons, citrons, golden pippins, wardens, apricots green, almonds, goosberries, cherries, currants, plumbs, rasberries, peaches, walnuts, nectarines, figs, grapes, _&c._ flowers and herbs; as violets, angelica, orange-flowers, _&c._ also how to make all sorts of biscakes, maspins, sugar-works, and candies. with the best methods of clarifying, and the different ways of boiling sugar. by the late ingenious mr. edward lambert, confectioner, in pall-mall. london: printed for t. payne, in castle-street, near the mews-gate, 1761. [price one shilling.] the art of confectionary. _of the manner of clarifying sugar, and the different ways of boiling it._ since the ground-work of the confectioner's art depends on the knowledge of clarifying and boiling sugars, i shall here distinctly set them down, that the several terms hereafter mentioned may the more easily be understood; which, when thoroughly comprehended, will prevent the unnecessary repetitions of them, which would encumber the work and confound the practitioner, were they to be explained in every article, as the variety of the matter should require: i shall therefore, through the whole treatise, stick to these denominations of the several degrees of boiling sugar, _viz._ clarifying, smooth, blown, feather'd, cracked, and carmel. _to clarify sugar._ break into your preserving pan the white of one egg, put in four quarts of water, beat it up to a froth with a whisk, then put in twelve pounds of sugar, mixed together, and set it over the fire; when it boils up, put in a little cold water, which will cause it to sink; let it rise again, then put in a little more water; so do for four or five times, till the scum appears thick on the top; then remove it from the fire and let it settle; then take off the scum, and pass it through your straining bag. _note_, if the sugar doth not appear very fine, you must boil it again before you strain it; otherwise in boiling it to an height, it will rise over the pan, and give the artist a great deal of trouble. _the boiling sugar to the degree called smooth._ when your sugar is thus clarified, put what quantity you shall have occasion for over the fire, to boil smooth, the which you will prove by dipping your scummer into the sugar; and then touching it with your fore-finger and thumb, in opening them a little you will see a small thread drawn betwixt, which immediately breaks, and remains in a drop on your thumb; thus it is a little smooth; then boiling it more, it will draw into a larger string; then it is become very smooth. _the blown sugar._ boil your sugar yet longer than the former, and try it thus, _viz._ dip in your scummer, and take it out, shaking off what sugar you can into the pan, and then blow with your mouth strongly through the holes, and if certain bubbles or bladders blow through, it is boiled to the degree called blown. _the feathered sugar_, is a higher degree of boiling sugar, which is to be proved by dipping the scummer when it hath boiled somewhat longer; shake it first over the pan, then giving it a sudden flurt behind you; if it be enough, the sugar will fly off like feathers. _the crackled boiling_, is proved by letting it boil somewhat longer; and then dipping a stick into the sugar, which immediately remove into a pot of cold water standing by you for that purpose, drawing off the sugar that cleaves to the stick, and if it becomes hard, and will snap in the water, it is enough; if not, you must boil it till it comes to that degree. _note_, your water must be always very cold, or it will deceive you. _the carmel sugar_, is known by boiling yet longer, and is proved by dipping a stick, as aforesaid, first in the sugar, and then in the water: but this you must observe, when it comes to the carmel height, it will snap like glass the moment it touches the cold water, which is the highest and last degree of boiling sugar. _note_, there is this to be observed, that your fire be not very fierce when you boil this, lest flaming up the sides of your pan, it should occasion the sugar to burn, and so discolour it. _to preserve seville-oranges liquid._ take the best seville-oranges, and pare them very neatly, put them into salt and water for about two hours; then boil them very tender till a pin will easily go into them; then drain them well from the water, and put them into your preserving pan, putting as much clarified sugar to them as will cover them, laying some trencher or plate on them to keep them down; then set them over a fire, and by degrees heat them till they boil; then let them have a quick boil till the sugar comes all over them in a froth; then set them by till next day, when you must drain the syrup from them, and boil it till it becomes very smooth, adding some more clarified sugar; put it upon the oranges, and give them a boil, then set them by till next day, when you must do as the day before. the fourth day drain them and strain your syrup through a bag, and boil it till it becomes very smooth; then take some other clarified sugar, boil it till it blows very strong, and take some jelly of pippins drawn from the pippins, as i shall immediately express, with the juice of some other oranges: as for example, if you have six oranges, after they are preserved as above directed, take two pounds of clarified sugar, boil it to blow very strong; then one pint and half of pippin jelly, and the juice of four or five oranges, boil all together; then put in the syrup that has been strained and boiled to be very smooth, and give all a boil; then put your oranges into your pots or glasses, and fill them up with the above made jelly; when cold cover them, and set them by for use. _note_, you must be sure in all your boilings to clear away the scum, otherwise you will endanger their working: and if you find they will swim above your jelly, you must bind them down with a sprig of a clean whisk. _to draw a jelly from pippins._ take the fairest and firmest pippins, pour them into fair water, as much as will cover them; set them over a quick fire, and boil them to mash; then put them on a sieve over an earthen pan, and press out all the jelly, which jelly strain through a bag, and use as directed in the oranges before mentioned, and such others as shall be hereafter described. _to make orange marmalade._ take six oranges, grate two of the rinds of them upon a grater, then cut them all, and pick out the flesh from the skins and seeds; put to it the grated rind, and about half a pint of pippin jelly; take the same weight of sugar as you have of this meat so mingled; boil your sugar till it blows very strong; then put in the meat, and boil all very quick till it becomes a jelly, which you will find by dipping the scummer, and holding it up to drain; if it be a jelly, it will break from the scummer in flakes; if not, it will run off in little streams: when it is a good jelly, put it into your glasses or pots. _note_, if you find this composition too sweet, you may in the boiling add more juice of oranges; the different quickness they have, makes it difficult to prescribe. _to preserve oranges with a marmalade in them._ pare your oranges as before, make a round hole in the bottom, where the stalk grew, the bigness of a shilling; take out the meat, and put them into salt and water for two or three hours; then boil them very tender, then put them into clarified sugar, give them a boil the next day, drain the syrup and boil it till it becomes smooth; put in your oranges and give them a good boil. when a little cool, drain them and fill them with a marmalade made as before directed, putting in the round piece you cut out; with the syrup, some other sugar, and pippin juice, make a jelly, and fill up your pots or glasses. _to make a compote of oranges._ cut the rind off your oranges into ribs, leaving part of the rind on; cut them into eight quarters, throw them into boiling water; when a pin will easily go through the rind, drain and put them into boiling water, when a pin will easily go through the rind, drain and put them into as much sugar boiled, till it becomes smooth, as will cover them, give all a boil together, adding some juice of oranges to what sharpness you please; you may put a little pippin jelly into the boiling, if you please; when cold serve them to table on plates. _to make orange-rings and faggots._ pare your oranges as thin, and as narrow as you can, put the parings into water, whilst you prepare the rings, which are done by cutting the oranges so pared into as many rings as you please; then cut out the meat from the inside; then put the rings and faggots into boiling water; boil them till tender; then put them into clarified sugar, as much as will cover them; set them by till next day; then boil all together, and set them by till the day after; then drain the syrup, and boil it till very smooth; then return your oranges into it, and give all a boil; the next day boil the syrup till it rises up to almost the top of your pan; then return the oranges into it, and give it a boil; then put them by in some pot to be candied, as hereafter mentioned, whenever you shall have occasion. _to candy orange, lemon, and citron._ drain what quantity you will candy clean from the syrup, and wash it in luke-warm water, and lay it on a sieve to drain; then take as much clarified sugar as you think will cover what you will candy, boil it till it blows very strong, then put in your rings, and boil them till it blows again; then take it from the fire, and let it cool a little; then with the back of a spoon rub the sugar against the inside of your pan till you see the sugar becomes white; then with a fork take out the rings one by one, lay them on a wire-grate to drain, then put in your faggots, and boil them as before directed; then rub the sugar, and take them up in bunches, having some-body to cut them with a pair of scizers to what bigness you please, laying them on your wire to drain. _note_, thus may you candy all sorts of oranges and lemon-peals or chips. lemon rings and faggots are done the same way, with this distinction only, that the lemons ought to be pared twice over, that the ring may be the whiter; so will you have two sorts of faggots: but you must be sure to keep the outward rind from the other, else it will discolour them. _to make orange-cakes._ take six sevil-oranges, grate the rinds of two of them, and then cut off the rinds of all six to the very juice; boil them in water till very tender; then squeeze out all the water you can, and beat them to a paste in a marble-morter; then rub it through a sieve of hair; what will not easily rub through must be beat again till all is got through; then cut to pieces the insides of the oranges, and rub as much of that through as you possibly can; then boil about six or eight pippins in as much water as will almost cover them, and boil them to a paste, and rub it through a sieve to the rest; then put all into a pan together, and give a thorough heat, till it is well mingled; then to every pound of this paste take one pound and a quarter of loaf-sugar; clarify the sugar, and boil it to the crick; then put in your paste and the grated peal, and stir it all together over a slow fire till it is well mixed, and the sugar all melted; then with a spoon fill your round tin-moulds as fast as you can; when cold, draw off your moulds, and set them in a warm stove to dry; when dry on the tops, turn them on sieves to dry on the other side; and when quite dry, box them up. _lemon-cakes._ take six thick-rinded lemons, grate two of them, then pare off all the yellow peal, and strip the white to the juice, which white boil till tender, and make a paste exactly as above. _to preserve white-citrons._ cut your white-citrons into what sized pieces you please; put them into water and salt for four or five hours; then wash them in fair water, and boil them till tender; then drain them, and put them into as much clarified sugar as will cover them, and set them by till next day; then drain the syrup, and boil it a little smooth; when cool, put it on your citrons; the next day boil your syrup quite smooth, and pour on your citrons; the day after boil all together and put into a pot to be candied, or put in jelly, or compose as you please. _note_, you must look over these fruits so kept in syrup; and if you perceive any froth on them you must give them a boil; and if by chance they should become very frothy and sour, you must first boil the syrup, and then all together. _to preserve golden-pippins in jelly._ pare your pippins from all spots, and with a narrow-pointed knife make a hole quite through them, then boil them in fair water about a quarter of an hour; then drain them, and take as much sugar as will cover them; boil it till it blows very strong, then put in your pippins, and give them a good boil; let them cool a little, then give them another boil; then if you have, for example a dozen of pippins, take a pound of sugar, and boil it till it blows very strong; then put in half a pint of pippin jelly and the juice of three or four lemons; boil all together, and put to the golden-pippins; give them all a boil, scum them, and put them into the glasses or pots. _to dry golden-pippins._ pare your pippins, and make a hole in them, as above, then weigh them, and boil them till tender; then take them out of the water, and to every pound of pippins take a pound and a half of loaf-sugar, and boil it till it blows very strong; then put in the fruit, and boil it very quick, till the sugar flies all over the pan; then let them settle, and cool them, scum them, and set them by till the next day, then drain them, and lay them out to dry, dusting them with fine sugar before you put them into the stove; the next day turn them and dust them again, when dry, pack them up. _note_, you must dry them in slices or quarters, after the same manner. _to make orange clear-cakes._ take the best pippins, pare them into as much water as will cover them; boil them to a mash; then press out the jelly upon a sieve, and strain it through a bag, adding juice of oranges to give it an agreeable taste: to every pound of jelly take one pound and a quarter of loaf sugar, boil it till it cracks, then put in the jelly and the rind of a grated orange or two, stir it up gently over a slow fire, till all is incorporated together; then take it off, and fill your clear-cake glasses, what scum arises on the top, you must carefully rake off before they are cold, then put them into the stove; when you find them begin to crust upon the upper side, turn them out upon squares of glasses, and put them to dry again; when they begin to have a tender candy, cut them into quarters, or what pieces you please, and let them dry till hard, then turn them on sieves; when thorough dry, put them up into your boxes. _note_, as they begin to sweat in the box, you must shift them from time to time, and it will be requisite to put no more than one row in a box at the beginning, till they do not sweat. lemon-colour cakes are made with lemons, as these. _to make pomegranate clear-cakes._ draw your jelly as for the orange clear-cakes, then boil into it the juice of two or three pomegranate-seeds, and all with the juice of an orange and a lemon, the rind of each grated in, then strain it through a bag, and to every pound of jelly put one pound and a quarter boiled till it cracks to help the colour to a fine red; put in a spoonful of cocheneal, prepared as hereafter directed; then fill your glasses, and order them as your orange. _to prepare cocheneal._ take one ounce of cocheneal, and beat it to a fine powder, then boil it in three quarters of a pint of water to the consumption of one half, then beat half an ounce of roach allum, and half an ounce of cream of tartar very fine, and put them to the cocheneal, boil them all together a little while, and strain it through a fine bag, which put into a phial, and keep for use. _note_, if an ounce of loaf-sugar be boiled in with it, it will keep from moulding what you do not immediately use. _to make pippin-knots._ pare your pippins, and weigh them, then put them into your preserving pan; to every pound put four ounces of sugar, and as much water as will scarce cover them; boil them to a pulp, and then pulp them through a sieve; then to every pound of the apples you weighed, take one pound of sugar clarified, boil it till it almost cracks, then put in the paste, and mix it well over a slow fire, then take it off and pour it on flat pewter-plates or the bottoms of dishes, to the thickness of two crowns; set them in the stove for three or four hours, then cut it into narrow slips and turn it up into knots to what shape or size you please; put them into the stove to dry, dusting them a little, turn them and dry them on the other side, and when thorough dry, put them into your box. _note_, you may make them red by adding a little cocheneal, or green by putting in a little of the following colour. _to prepare a green colour._ take gumbouge one quarter of an ounce, of indico and blue the same quantity; beat them very fine in a brass mortar, and mix with it a spoonful of water, so will you have a fine green; a few drops are sufficient. _to make a compote of boonchretien pears._ pare your fruit, and cut them into slices, scald them a little, squeezing some juice of lemon on them in the scalding to keep them white; then drain them, and put as much clarified sugar as will just cover them, give them a boil, and then squeeze the juice of an orange or lemon, which you best approve of, and serve them, to table when cold. _compote of baked wardens._ bake your wardens in an earthen pot, with a little claret, some spice, lemon-peal, and sugar; when you will use them peal off the skin and dress them in plates, either whole or in halfs; then make a jelly of pippins, sharpened well with the juice of lemons, and pour it upon them, and when cold, break the jelly with a spoon, so will it look very agreeable upon the red pears. _zest of china-oranges._ pare off the outward rind of the oranges very thin, and only strew it with fine powder-sugar, as much as their own moisture will take, dry them in a hot stove. _to rock candy-violets._ pick the leaves off the violets, then boil some of the finest loaf-sugar till it blows very strong, which pour into your candying-pan, being made of tin, in the form of a dripping-pan, about three inches deep; then strew the leaves of the flowers as thick on the top as you can; then put it into a hot stove for eight or ten days; when you see it is hard candied, break a hole in one corner of it, and drain all the syrup that will run from it, then break it out, and lay it on heaps on plates to dry in the stove. _to candy violets whole._ take the double violets, and pick off the green stalk, then boil some sugar till it blows very strong; throw in the violets, and boil it till it blows again, then with a spoon rub the sugar against the side of the pan till white, then stir all till the sugar leaves them; then sift them and dry them. _note_, junquils are done the same way. _to preserve angelico in knots._ take young and thick stalks of angelico, cut them into lengths of about a quarter of a yard, then scald them; next put them into cold water, then strip off the skins, and cut them into narrow slips; then lay them on your preserving pan, then put to them a thin sugar, that is, to one part sugar as clarified, and one part water; then set it over the fire and let it boil, and set it by till next day, then turn it in the pan, and give it another boil; the day after drain it and boil the sugar till it is a little smooth, then pour it on your angelico, and if it be a good green boil it no more, if not, heat it again; the day following boil the sugar till it is very smooth, and pour it upon your angelico; the next day boil your syrup till it rises to the top of your pan, then put your angelico into your pan, and pour your syrup upon it, and keep it for use. _to dry it out._ drain what quantity you will from the syrup, and boil as much sugar as will cover it till it blows, put in your angelico, and give it a boil till it blows again; when cold, drain it, and tie it in knots and put it into a warm stove to dry, first dusting it a little; when dry on one side turn it, and dry the other, then pack it up. _to preserve angelico in sticks._ take angelico, not altogether so young as the other, cut it into short pieces about half a quarter of a yard, or less, scale it a little, then drain it and put it into a thin sugar as before; boil it a little, the next day turn it in the pan the bottom upwards, and boil it, so finish it as the other for knots. _note_, when you will candy it, you must drain it from the syrup, wash it and candy it as the orange and lemon. _angelico-paste._ take the youngest and most pithy angelico you can get, boil it very tender, then drain it, and press out all the water you possibly can, then beat it in a mortar to as fine a paste as may be, then rub it through a sieve; next day dry it over a fire, and to every pound of this paste take one pound of fine sugar in fine powder; when your paste is hot, put in the sugar, stirring it over a gentle fire till it is well incorporated; when so done, drop it on plates long or round, as you shall judge proper; dust it a little and put it into the stove to dry. _to preserve apricots green._ take the apricots when about to stone, before it becomes too hard for a pin easily to press through; pare them in ribs very neatly because every stroke of the knife will be seen; then put them into fair water as you pare them, then boil them till tender enough to slip easily from your pin, then drain them, and put them into a thin sugar, that is to say, one part sugar clarified, and one part water; boil them a little, then set them by till next day, then give them another boil; the day after drain them and boil your syrup a little smooth, and put it to them, giving them a boil; the next day boil your syrup a little smooth and put it upon them without boiling your fruit; then let them remain in the syrup four or five days; then boil some more sugar till it blows, and add it to them; give all a boil, and let them be till the day following; then drain them from the syrup, and lay them out to dry, dusting them with a little fine sugar before you put them into the stove. _to put them up in jelly._ you must keep them in the syrup so preserved till codlins are pretty well grown; take care to visit them sometimes that they do not sour, which if they do, the syrup will be lost; by reason it will become muddy, and then you will be obliged to make your jelly with all fresh sugar, which will be too sweet; but when codlins are of an indifferent bigness, draw a jelly from them as from pippins, as you are directed in _p._ 8; then drain the apricots from the syrup, boil it and strain it through your strain-bags; then boil some sugar (proportionable to your quantity of apricots you design to put up) till it blows, then put in the jelly and boil it a little with the sugar, then put in the syrup and the apricots, and give them all a boil together, till you find the syrup will be a jelly; then remove them from the fire, and scum them very well, and put them into your pots or glasses, observing as they cool if they be regular in the glasses to sink, and disperse them to a proper distance, and when thorough cold to cover them up. _to preserve green almonds._ take the almonds when pretty well grown, and make a lye with wood or charcoal-ashes, and water; boil the lye till it feels very smooth, strain it through a sieve and let it settle till clear, then pour off the clear into another pan, then set it on the fire in order to blanch off the down that is on the almonds, which you must do in this manner, _viz._ when the lye is scalding hot throw in two or three almonds, and try, when they have been in some time, if they will blanch; if they will, put in the rest, and the moment you find their skins will come off, remove them from the fire, and put them into cold water, and blanch them one by one rubbing them with salt, the better to clean them; when you have so done, wash them in several waters, the better to clean them, in short, till you see no soil in the water; when you have so done, throw them into boiling water, and let them boil till very tender, till a pin will very easily pass through them; then drain them, and put them into clarified sugar without water, they being green enough, do not require a thin sugar to bring them to a colour, but, on the contrary, if too much heated, they will become too dark a green; the next day boil the syrup, and put it on them; the day after boil it till it becomes very smooth; the day following give all a boil together, scum them, and let them rest four or five days; then, if you will dry them or put them in jelly, you must follow the directions as for green apricots, _p._ 24. _note_, if you will have a compose of either, it is but serving them to table when they are first entered, by boiling the sugar a little more. _to preserve goosberries green._ take the long sort of goosberries the latter end of _may_ or the beginning of _june_, before the green colour has left them; set some water over the fire, and when it is ready to boil, throw in the goosberries, and let them have a scald, then take them out and carefully remove them into cold water, and set them over a very slow fire to green, cover them very close so that none of the steam can get out; when you have obtained their green colour, which will perhaps be four or five hours, then drain them gently into clarified sugar, and give them a heat; set them by, and give them another heat; this you must repeat four or five times in order to bring them to a very good green colour: thus you may serve them to table by way of compose; if you will preserve them to keep either dry or in jelly, you must follow the directions as for green apricots aforementioned, _p._ 24. _to preserve goosberries white._ take the large _dutch_ goosberries when full grown, but before they are quite ripe; pare them into fair water, and stone them; then put them into boiling water, and let them boil very tender, then put them into clarified sugar in an earthen pan, and put as many in one pan as will cover the bottom; then set them by till next day, and boil the syrup a little, and pour it on them; the day after boil it till smooth, and pour it on them; the third day give them a gentle boil round, by setting the side of the pan over the fire, and as it boils, turning it about till they have had a boil all over, the day following make a jelly with codlins, and finish them as you do the others, in _p._ 28. _to dry goosberries._ to every pound of goosberries, when stoned, put two pounds of sugar, but boil the sugar till it blows very strong; then strew in the goosberries, and give them a thorough boil, till the sugar comes all over them, let them settle a quarter of an hour, then give them another good boil, then scum them, and set them by till the next day; then drain them, and lay them out on sieves to dry, dusting them very much, and put a good brisk fire into the stove; when dry on one side, turn them and dust them on the other; and when quite dry, put them into your box. _to make goosberry-paste._ take the goosberries when full grown, wash them, and put them into your preserving pan, with as much spring-water as will almost cover them, and boil them very quick all to a pommish; then strew them on a hair-sieve over an earthen pot or pan, and press out all the juice; then to every pound of this paste, take one pound and two ounces of sugar, and boil it till it cracks; then take it from the fire and put in your paste, and mix it well over a slow fire till the sugar is very well incorporated with the paste; then scum it and fill your paste-pots, then scum them again, and when cold, put them into the stove, and when crusted on the top, turn them, and set them in the stove again, and when a little dry, cut them in long pieces, and set them to dry quite; and when so crusted that they will bear touching, turn them on sieves and dry the other side, then put them into your box. _note_, you may make them red or green, by putting the colour when the sugar and paste is all mixed, giving it a warm altogether. _goosberry clear-cakes._ goosberry clear-cakes are made after the same manner as the paste, with this difference only, that you strain the jelly through the bag before you weigh it for use. _to dry cherries._ stone your cherries and weigh them, to eight pounds of cherries put two pounds of sugar, boil it till it blows very strong: put the cherries to the sugar, and heat them by degrees till the sugar is thoroughly melted, for when the cherries come in, it will so cool the sugar that it will seem like glew, and should you put it on a quick fire at first, it will endanger the burning; when you find the sugar is all melted, then boil them as quick as possible till the sugar flies all over them, then scum them, and set them by in an earthen pan; for where the sugar is so thin, it will be apt to cancker in a copper or brass, or stain in a silver; the next day drain them, and boil the sugar till it rises, then put in your cherries, and give them a boil, scum them and set them by till the next day, then drain them and lay them out on sieves, and dry them in a very hot stove. _to preserve cherries liquid._ take the best morello cherries when ripe, either stone them or clip their stalks; and to every pound take a pound of sugar, and boil it till it blows very strong, then put in the cherries, and by degrees, bring them to boil as fast as you can, that the sugar may come all over them, scum them and set them by; the next day boil some more sugar to the same degree, and put some jelly of currants, drawn as hereafter directed; for example, if you boil one pound of sugar, take one pint of jelly, put in the cherries and the syrup to the sugar; then add the jelly, and give all a boil together; scum them, and fill your glasses or pots; take care as they cool, to disperse them equally, or otherwise they will swim all to the top. _to draw jelly of currants._ wash well your currants, put them into your pan, and mash them; then put in a little water and boil them to a pommish; then strew it on a sieve, and press out all your juice, of which you make the jelly for all the wet sweet-meats that are red. _note_, where white currant-jelly is prescribed, it is to be drawn after the same manner; but observe you strain it first. _to make cherry-paste._ take two pounds of morello cherries, stone them and press the juice out; dry them in a pan and mash them over the fire; then weigh them, and take their weight in sugar beaten very fine; heat them over the fire till the sugar is well mixed, then dress them on plates or glasses, dust them when cold, and put them into the stove to dry. _to dry currants in bunches._ stone your currants and tie them up in little bunches, and to every pound of currants you must boil two pounds of sugar, till it blows very strong, then slip in the currants, and let them boil very fast, till the sugar flies all over them; let them settle a quarter of an hour, then boil them again till the sugar rises almost to the top of the pan, then let them settle, scum them, and set them by till next day; then you must drain them, and lay them out, taking care to spread the sprigs that they may not dry clogged together: then dust them very much, and dry them in a hot stove. _to preserve currants in jelly._ stone your currants, and clip off the black tops, and strip them from the stalks, and to every pound boil two pounds of sugar till it blows very strong, then slip in the currants, and give them a quick boil, then take them from the fire and let them settle a little; then give them another boil, and put in a pint of currant-jelly, drawn as directed in _p._ 33; boil all well together, till you see the jelly will flake from the scummer; then remove it from the fire, and let it settle a little; then scum them, and put them into your glasses; but as they cool, take care to disperse them equally. _to preserve violet-plumbs._ violet plumbs are a long time yellow, and are ripe in the month of _june_, which are preserved as follows; put them into clarified sugar, just enough to cover them, and boil them pretty quick; the next day boil them again as before; the day after drain them again, and take away their skins, which you will find all flown off, then put them into a sugar, boil it till it blows a little, give them a boil; the day following boil some more sugar till it blows a little, give them a boil; the next day boil some more sugar to blow very strong, put the plumbs in the syrup, boil a little, and scum them; the next day drain them, and lay them out to dry, but dust them before you put them into the stove. _to preserve orange-flowers._ take the orange-flowers just as they begin to open, put them into boiling water, and let them boil very quick till they are tender, putting in a little juice of lemons as they boil, to keep them white; then drain them and dry them carefully between two napkins; then put them into a clarified sugar, as much as will cover them; the next day drain the syrup, and boil it a little smooth; when almost cold, pour it on the flowers; the day after you may drain them and lay them out to dry, dusting them a very little. _to put them in jelly._ after they are preserved, as before directed, you must clarify a little more sugar, with orange-flower-water, and make a jelly of codlins, which, when ready, put in the flowers syrup and all; give them a boil, scum them, and put them into your glasses or pots. _note_, when you boil the syrup, you must add sugar if it wants, as well in the working the foregoing fruits, as these. _to make orange-flower-cakes._ take four ounces of the leaves of orange-flowers, put them into fair water for about an hour, then drain them and put them between two napkins, and with a rolling-pin roll them till they are bruised; then have ready boiled one pound of double-refined-sugar to a bloom degree; put in the flowers, and boil it till it comes to the same degree again, then remove it from the fire, and let it cool a little; then with a spoon grind the sugar to the bottom or sides of the pan, and when it becomes white, pour it into little papers or cards, made in the form of a dripping-pan; when quite cold, take them out of the pans, and dry them a little in a stove. _to make orange-flower-paste._ boil one pound of the leaves of orange-flowers very tender; then take two pounds and two ounces of double-refined sugar in fine powder; and when you have bruised the flowers to a pulp, stir in the sugar by degrees over a slow fire till all is in and well melted; then make little drops and dry them. _to preserve apricots whole._ take the apricots when full grown, pare them, and take out their stones; then have ready a pan of boiling water, throw them into it, and scald them till they rise to the top of the water; then take them out carefully with your scummer, and lay them on a sieve to drain; then lay them in your preserving pan, and put over them as much sugar boiled to blow as will cover them, give them a boil round, by setting the pan half on the fire, and turning it about as it boils; then set it full on the fire, and let it have a covered boiling; then let them settle a quarter of an hour, and pick those that look clear to one side, and those that do not to the other; then boil that side that is not clear till they become clear; and as they do so, pick them away, lest they boil to a paste; when you see they look all alike, give them a covered boiling, scum them, and set them by; the next day boil a little more sugar to blow very strong, put it to the apricots, and give them a very good boil, then scum them, and cover them with a paper, and put them into a stove for two days; then drain them, and lay them out to dry, first dusting the plates you lay them on, and then the apricots, extraordinary well, blowing off what sugar lies white upon them, then put them into a very warm stove to dry, and when dry on one side, turn and dust them again; and when quite dry, pack them up. _note_, in the turning them you must take care there be no little bladders in them, for if there be, you must prick them with a point of a pen-knife, and squeeze them out, otherwise they will blow and sour. _to preserve apricot-chips._ split the apricots, and take out the stones, then pare them, and turn them into a circular form with your knife; then put them into your pan without scalding, and put as much sugar boiled very smooth as will cover them, then manage them on the fire as the whole apricots, scum them, and set them in the stove; the next day boil some more sugar, to boil very strong, then drain the syrup from the apricots, and boil it very smooth; then put it to the fresh sugar, and give it a boil; then put in the apricots and boil them first round, and then let them have a covered boil, scum them, and cover them with a paper; then put them into the stove for two or three days, drain them, and lay them out to dry, first dusting them. _to preserve apricots in jelly._ pare and stone your apricots, then scald them a little, and lay them in your pan, and put as much clarified sugar to them as will cover them; the next day drain the syrup, and boil it smooth, then slip in your apricots, and boil as before; the next day make a jelly with codlins, boiling some apricots amongst them, to give a better taste; when you have boiled the jelly to its proper height, put in the apricots with their syrup, and boil all together; when enough, scum them very well, and put them into your glasses. _to make apricot-paste._ boil some apricots that are full ripe to a pulp, and rub the fine of it thro' a sieve; and to every pound of pulp take one pound and two ounces of fine sugar, beaten to a very fine powder; heat well your paste, and then, by degrees, put in your sugar; when all is in, give it a thorough heat over the fire, but take care not to let it boil; then take it off and scrape it all to one side of the pan, let it cool a little, then with a spoon lay it out on plates in what form you please, then dust them, and put them into the stove to dry. _to make apricot clear-cakes._ first, draw a jelly from codlins, then boil in that jelly some very ripe apricots, which press upon a sieve over an earthen pan, then strain it through your jelly-bag; and to every pound of jelly take the like quantity of fine loaf-sugar, which clarify, and boil till it cracks; then put in the jelly, and mix it well, then give it a heat on the fire, scum it and fill your glasses; in the drying, order them as has been already directed in _p._ 16. _to make jam of apricots._ pare the apricots, and take out the stones, break them, and take out the kernels, and blanch them; then to every pound of apricots boil one pound of sugar till it blows very strong, then put in the apricots, and boil them very brisk till they are all broke, then take them off, and bruise them well, put in the kernels and stir them all together over the fire, then fill your pots or glasses with them. _note_, if you find it too sweet, you may put in a little white-currant-jelly to sharpen it to your liking. _to preserve rasberries liquid._ take the largest and fairest rasberries you can get, and to every pound of rasberries take one pound and a half of sugar, clarify it, and boil it till it blows very strong; then put in the rasberries, and let them boil as fast as possible, strewing a little fine beaten sugar on them as they boil; when they have had a good boil, that the sugar rises all over them, take them from the fire, and let them settle a little, then give them another boil, and put to every pound of rasberries half a pint of currant-jelly; let them have a good boil, till you perceive the syrup hangs in fleeks from your scummer; then remove them from the fire, take off the scum, and put them into your glasses or pots. _note_, take care to remove what scum there may be on the top; when cold, make a little jelly of currants, and fill up the glasses; then cover them with paper first wet in fair water, and dry'd a little betwixt two cloths, which paper you must put close to the jelly; then wipe clean your glasses, and cover the tops of them with other paper. _to make rasberry-cakes._ pick all the grubs and spotted rasberries away; then bruise the rest, and put them on a hair-sieve over an earthen pan, putting on them a board and weight to press out all the water you can; then put the paste into your preserving pan, and dry it over the fire, till you perceive no moisture left in it, that is, no juice that will run from it, stirring it all the time it is on the fire to keep it from burning; then weigh it, and to every pound take one pound and two ounces of sugar, beat to a fine powder, and put in the sugar by degrees; when all is in, put it on the fire, and incorporate them well together; then take them from the fire and scrape it all to one side of the pan; let it cool a very little, then put it into your moulds; when quite cold, put them into your stove without dusting it, and dry it as other sorts of paste. _note_, you must take particular care that your paste doth not boil after your sugar is in; for if it does, it will grow greasy and never dry well. _to make rasberry clear-cakes._ take two quarts of ripe goosberries, or white currants, and one quart of red rasberries, put them into a stone-jug and stop them close; then put it into a pot of cold water, as much as will cover the neck of the jug; then boil them in that water till all comes to a paste, then turn them out in a hair-sieve, placed over a pan, press out all the jelly and strain it thro' the jelly-bag; to every pound of jelly take twenty ounces of double-refined sugar, and boil it till it will crack in the water; then take it from the fire and put in your jelly, stirring it over a slow fire, till all the sugar is melted; then give it a good heat till all is incorporated; then take it from the fire, scum it well, and fill your clear-cake-glasses; then take off what scum is on them, and put them into the stove to dry, observing the method directed in _p._ 16. _note_, in filling out your clear-cakes and clear-pastes, you must be as expeditious as possible, for if it cools it will be a jelly before you can get it into them. white rasberry clear-cakes are made after the same manner, only mixing white rasberries with the goosberries in the infusion. _to make rasberry clear-paste._ take two quarts of goosberries, and two quarts of red rasberries, put them in a pan, with about a pint and an half of water; boil them over a very quick fire to a pommish, then throw them upon an earthen pan, and press out all the juice; then take that juice and boil in it another quart of rasberries, then throw them on a sieve, and rub all through the sieve that you can; then put in the seeds and weigh the paste, and to every pound take twenty ounces of fine loaf-sugar, boiled, when clarified, till it cracks, then remove it from the fire, and put in your paste, mix it well, and set it over a slow fire, stirring it till all the sugar is melted, and you find it is become a jelly; then take it from the fire and fill your pots or glasses, whilst very hot, then scum them and put them into the stove; observe, when cold, the drying them, as in _p._ 16. _to make rasberry-biscakes._ press out the juice, and dry the paste a little over the fire, then rub all the pulp through a sieve; then weigh, and to every pound take eighteen ounces of sugar, sifted very fine, and the whites of four eggs, put all in the pan together, and with a whisp beat till it is very stiff, so that you may lay it in pretty high drops; and when it is so beaten, drop it in what form you please on the back sides of cards, (paper being too thin, it will be difficult to get it off;) dust them a little with a very fine sugar, and put them into a very warm stove to dry; when they are dry enough, they will come easily from the cards; but whilst soft, they will not stir; then take and turn then on a sieve, and let them remain a day or two in the stove; then pack them up in your box, and they will, in a dry place, keep all the year without shifting. _to make currant-paste._ wash well your currants and put them into your preserving pan, bruise them, and with a little water, boil them to a pulp, press out the juice, and to every pound take twenty ounces of loaf-sugar, boil it to crack; then take it from the fire, and put in the paste; then heat it over the fire, take off the scum, and put it into your paste-pots or glasses, then dry and manage them as other pastes. _to make rasberry-jam._ press out the water from the rasberries; then to every pound of rasberries take one pound of sugar, first dry the rasberries in a pan over the fire, but keep them stirring, lest they burn; put in your sugar, and incorporate them well together, and fill your glasses or pots, covering them with thin white paper close to the jam, whilst it is hot; and when cold, tie them over with other paper. _to preserve peaches whole._ take the _newington_ peach, when full ripe, split it, and take out the stone, then have ready a pan of boiling water, drop in the peaches, and let them have a few moments scalding; then take them out, and put them into as much sugar, only clarified, as will cover them, give them a boil round, then scum them and set them by till the next day; then boil some more sugar to blow very strong, which sugar put to the peaches, and give them a good boil, scum them, and set them by till the day following; then give them another good boil, scum them and put them into a warm stove for the space of two days; then drain them, and lay them out one half over the other, dust them and put them into the stove; the next day turn them and dust them, and when thorough dry, pack them up for use. _to preserve peach-chips._ pare your peaches, and take out the stones, then cut them into very thin slices, not thicker than the blade of a knife; then to every pound of chips take one pound and an half of sugar, boiled to blow very strong, then throw in the chips, and give them a good boil, then let them settle a little, take off the scum, and let them stand a quarter of an hour, then give them another good boil, and let them settle as before; then take off the scum, cover them, and set them by; the next day drain them, and lay them out bit by bit, dust them, and dry them in a warm stove; when dry on one side, take them from the plate with a knife, and turn them on a sieve; and then again, if they are not pretty dry, which they generally are. _to put them in jelly._ draw a jelly from codlins, and when they are boiled enough, take as much jelly as sugar, boil the sugar to blow very strong, then put in the jelly, give it a boil and put it to the chips; give all a boil and scum them, then put them into your glasses. _to preserve walnuts white._ take the largest _french_ walnuts, when full grown, but before they are hard, pare off the green shell to the white, and put them into fair water; then throw them into boiling water, and boil them till very tender; then drain them and put them into a clarified sugar, give them a gentle heat; the next day boil some more sugar to blow, and put it to them, giving them a boil; the next day boil some more sugar to blow very strong, put it to the walnuts, give them a boil, scum them, and put them by, then drain them and put them on plates, dust them and put them into a warm stove to dry. _to preserve walnuts black._ take of the smaller sort of walnuts, when full grown, and not shelled; boil them in water till very tender, but not to break, so they will become black; then drain them, and stick a clove in every one, and put them into your preserving pan, and if you have any peach syrup, or of that of the white walnuts, it will be as well or better than sugar; put as much syrup as will cover the walnuts, boil them very well, then scum them and set them by; the next day boil the syrup till it becomes smooth, then put in the walnuts and give them another good boil; the day after drain them and boil the syrup till it becomes very smooth, adding more syrup, if occasion; give all a boil, scum them, and put them in your pot for use. _note_, these walnuts are never offered as a sweet-meat, being of no use but to purge gently the body, and keep it open. _to preserve nectarines._ split the nectarines, and take out the stones, then put them into a clarified sugar; boil them round, till they have well taken sugar; then take off the scum, cover them with a paper and set them by; the next day boil a little more sugar till it blows very strong, and put it to the nectarines, and give them a good boil; take off the scum, cover them, and put them into the stove; the next day drain them and lay them out to dry, first dusting them a little, then put them into the stove. _to preserve green amber-plumbs._ take the green amber-plumbs, when full grown, prick them in two or three places, and put them into cold water; then set them over the fire to scald, in which you must be very careful not to let the water become too hot, lest you hurt them; when they are very tender, put them into a very thin sugar, that is to say, one part sugar, and two parts water; give them a little warm in this sugar, and cover them over; the next day give them a warm again; the third day drain them and boil the syrup, adding a little more sugar; then put the syrup to the plumbs, and give them a warm; the next day do the same; the day following boil the syrup till it becomes a little smooth, put in the plumbs and give them a boil; the day after boil the syrup till very smooth, then put it to the plumbs, cover them, and put them into the stove; the next day boil some more sugar to blow very strong, put it to the fruit and give all a boil, then put them into the stove for two days; then drain them and lay them out to dry, first dusting them very well, and manage them in the drying as other fruits. _note_, if you find them shrink when first you put them into sugar, you must let them lie in that thin syrup three or four days, till they begin to work; then casting away that syrup, begin the work as already set down. _to preserve green orange-plumbs._ take the green orange-plumbs, when full grown, before they turn, prick them with a fine bodkin, as thick all over as possible you can; put them into cold water as you prick them, when all are done, set them over a very slow fire, and scald them with the utmost care you can, nothing being so subject to break, for if the skin flies they are worth nothing; when they are very tender, take them off the fire and set them by in the same water for two or three days; when they become sour, and begin to float on the top of the water, be careful to drain them very well; then put them in single rows in your preserving pan, and put to them as much thin sugar as will cover them, that is to say, one part sugar, and two parts water; then set them over the fire, and by degrees warm them till you perceive the sourness to be gone, and the plumbs are sunk to the bottom, set them by; and the next day throw away that syrup, and put to them a fresh sugar, of one part sugar, and one part water; in this sugar give them several heats, but not to boil, lest you burst them; then cover them, and set them in a warm stove that they may suck in what sugar they will; the next day drain the sugar, and boil it till it becomes smooth, adding some more fresh sugar; pour this sugar on them, and return them into the stove; the next day boil the syrup to become very smooth, and pour it upon your plumbs, and give all a gentle boil, scum it and put them into the stove; the day following drain them out of that syrup, and boil some fresh sugar, as much as you judge will cover them, till very smooth put it to your plumbs, and give all a very good covered boiling; then take off the scum and cover them, let them stand in the stove two days, then drain them and lay them out to dry, dusting them very well. _to preserve the green mogul-plumb._ take this plumb when just upon the turning ripe, prick with a pen-knife to the very stone on that side where the cleft is, put them into cold water as you do them, then set them over a very slow fire to scald; when they are become very tender, take them carefully out of the water and put them into a thin sugar, that is, half sugar, and half water, warm them gently, then cover them, and set them by; the next day give them another warm and set them by; the day following drain their syrup and boil it smooth, adding to it a little fresh sugar, and give them a gentle boil, the day after boil the sugar very smooth, pour it upon them and set them in the stove for two days; then drain them and boil a fresh sugar to be very smooth, or just to blow a little, put it to your plumbs and give them a good covered boiling; then scum them and put them into the stove for two days, then drain them and lay them out to dry, dusting them very well. _to preserve the green admirable-plumb._ this is a little round plumb, about the size of a damson; it leaves the stone, when ripe, is somewhat inclining to a yellow in colour, and very well deserves its name, being of the finest green when done, and with the tenth part of the trouble and charge, as you will find by the receipt. take this plumb, when full grown, and just upon the turn, prick them with a pen-knife in two or three places, and scald them, by degrees, till the water becomes very hot, for they will even bear boiling; continue them in the water till they become green, then drain them, and put them into a clarified sugar, boil them very well, then let them settle a little, and give them another boil; if you perceive they shrink and take not the sugar in very well, prick them with a fork all over as they lie in the pan, and give them another boil, scum them, and set them by; the next day boil some other sugar till it blows, and put it to them, and give them a good boil, then scum them and set them in the stove for one night; the next day drain them and lay them out, first dusting them. _to preserve yellow amber-plumbs._ take these plumbs, when full ripe, put them into your preserving pan, and put to them as much sugar as will cover them, and give them a very good boil; then let them settle a little, and give them another boil three or four times round the fire, scum them, and the next day drain them from the syrup, and return them again into the pan, and boil as much fresh sugar as will cover them to blow; give them a thorough boiling, and scum them, and set them in the stove twenty-four hours; then drain them, and lay them out to dry, after having dusted them very well. _note_, in the scalding of green plumbs, you must always have a sieve in the bottom of your pan to put your plumbs in, that they may not touch the bottom, for those that do, will burst before the others are any thing warm. _to put plumbs in jelly._ any of these sorts of plumbs are very agreeable in jelly, and the same method will do for all as for one: i might make some difference which would only help to confound the practitioner, and thereby swell this treatise in many places; but, as i have promised, so i will endeavour to lay down the easiest method i can to avoid prolixity, and proceed as above, _viz._ [plumbs in jelly.] when your plumbs are preserved in their first sugar, and you have drained them in order to put them in a second, they are then fit to be put up liquid, which you must do thus: drain the plumbs, and strain the syrup through a bag; then make a jelly of some ripe plumbs and codlins together, by boiling them in just as much water as will cover them, press out the juice and strain it, and to every pint of juice boil one pound of sugar to blow very strong, put in the juice and boil it a little; then put in the syrup and the plumbs, and give all a good boil; then let them settle a little, scum them and fill your glasses or pots. _to preserve green figs._ take the small green figs, slit them on the top, and put them in salt and water for ten days, and make your pickle as follows. put in as much salt into the water as will make it bear an egg, then let it settle, take the scum off, and put the clear brine to the figs, and keep them in water for ten days; then put them into fresh water, and boil them till a pin will easily pass into them; then drain them and put them into other fresh water, shifting them every day for four days; then drain them, and put them into a clarified sugar; give them a little warm, and let them stand till the next day; then warm them again, and when they are become green give them a good boil, then boil some other sugar to blow, put it to them, and give them another good boil; the next day drain them and dry them. _to preserve ripe figs._ take the white figs, when ripe, slit them in the top, and put them into a clarified sugar, and give them a good boil; then scum them, and set them by; the next day boil some more sugar till it blows, and pour it upon them, and boil them again very well, scum them and set them in the stove; the day after drain them and lay them out to dry, first dusting them very well. _to preserve green oranges._ take the green oranges and slit them on one side, and put them into a brine of salt and water, as strong as will bear an egg, in which you must soak them at least fifteen days; then drain them and put them into fresh water, and boil them tender; then put them into fresh water, again, shifting them every day for five days together; then give them another scald, and put them into a clarified sugar; then give them a boil, and set them by till next day, then boil them again; the next day add some more sugar, and give them another boil; the day after boil the syrup very smooth and pour it on them, and keep them for use. _note_, that if at any time you perceive the syrup begin to work, you must drain them, and boil the syrup very smooth and pour it on them; but if the first prove sour, you must boil it likewise. green lemons are done after the same manner. _note also_, if the oranges are any thing large, you must take out the meat from the inside. _to preserve green grapes._ take the largest and best grapes before they are thorough ripe, stone them and scald them, but let them lie two days in the water they were scalded in; then drain them and put them into a thin syrup, and give them a heat over a slow fire; the next day turn the grapes in the pan and warm them again; the day after drain them and put them into a clarified sugar, give them a good boil, and scum them, and set them by; the following day boil some more sugar to blow, and put it to the grapes, and give them a good boil, scum them and set them in a warm stove all night; the next day drain them and lay them out to dry, first dusting them very well. _to preserve bell-grapes in jelly._ take the long, large bell, or rouson-grapes, and pick them from the stalks, then stone them and put them in boiling water, and give them a thorough scald; then take them from the fire and cover them close down, so that no steam can come out; then set them upon a very gentle fire, so as not to boil for two or three hours; then take them out, and put them into a clarified sugar boiled, till it blows very strong, as much sugar as will a little more than cover them; then give them a good boil and let them settle a little: then give them another boil, scum them, and then boil some other sugar to blow very strong; and take as much plumb-jelly as sugar, and give all a boil, then add to it the grapes, and give them all a boil together, scum them well, and put them up into your pots or glasses. [transcriber's note: the printed book was extremely consistent in both spelling and punctuation. errors and uncertain passages are listed at the end of the text.] * * * * * * * * * * * * * * mrs. _mary eales_'s receipts. confectioner to her late majesty queen _anne_. [decoration] _london:_ printed for j. brindley, bookseller, at the _king's-arms_ in _new bond-street_, and bookbinder to her majesty and his royal highness the prince of _wales_; and r. montagu at the _general post-office_, the corner of _great queen-street_, near _drury-lane_. mdccxxxiii. [decoration] the contents. to dry angelica page 1 to preserve green apricocks 2 to make goosberry clear-cakes 3 to make goosberry-paste 4 to dry goosberries 5 to preserve goosberries 6 to dry cherries 7 to make cherry-jam 8 to dry cherries without sugar ibid. to dry cherries in bunches 9 to make cherry-paste ib. to preserve cherries 10 to dry currants in bunches, &c. 11 to make currant clear-cakes 12 to preserve red currants 13 to make currant paste, either red or white ib. to preserve white currants 14 to preserve rasberries 15 to make jam of rasberries 16 to make rasberry-paste ib. to make rasberry clear-cakes 17 to make rasberry-drops 18 to dry apricocks ib. to dry apricocks in quarters or halves 19 to make paring-chips 20 to preserve apricocks 21 to make apricock clear-cakes 22 to make apricock-paste 23 to make apple-jelly for all sorts of sweet-meats ib. to make apricock-jam 24 to preserve green jennitins ib. to dry green plums 25 to dry amber, or any white plums 26 to dry black pear-plums, or muscles, or the _great moguls_ 28 to preserve black pear-plums or damascenes 30 to preserve white pear-plums ib. to make white pear-plum clear-cakes 31 to make white plum-paste 32 to make red plum clear-cakes 33 to make red plum-paste 34 to dry plums like the _french_ plums, with stones in them ib. to dry peaches 35 to make peach-chips 36 to preserve or dry nutmeg-peaches 37 to preserve cucumbers ib. to dry green figs 39 to dry black figs 40 to preserve grapes 41 to dry grapes ib. to dry barberries 42 to preserve barberries 43 to make barberry-drops ib. to make white quince-marmalet 44 to make red quince-marmalet 45 to preserve whole quinces 46 to make quince-chips 47 to make quince-paste 48 to make quince clear-cakes ib. to preserve golden or _kentish_-pippins 49 to preserve whole oranges or lemmons 50 to dry oranges in knots, or lemmons 52 to make _china_-chips 54 to make orange-paste ib. to make orange-drops 55 to make orange-marmalet 56 to make orange or lemmon clear-cakes ib. to make pomegranate clear-cakes 58 to make orange-halves, or quarters, with the meat in them 59 to preserve citrons. 60 to make citron-marmalet 61 to candy orange-flowers ib. to make rock-sugar 63 to make fruit-biscuit 65 to make all sorts of sugar-paste 66 to make chocolate-almonds 67 to make wormwood-cakes ib. to make honycomb-cakes of orange-flower-violet of cowslips 68 to make ice almond-cakes ib. to make bean'd-bread 69 to make orange or lemmon-puffs 70 to make almond-paste, either bitter or sweet 71 to make little round ratafea-puffs 72 to make brown wafers ib. to make almond-loaves 73 to make chocolate-puffs 74 to make ratafea-drops, either of apricock-kernels, or half bitter and half sweet-almonds ib. to make all sorts of sugar-puffs 75 to make almond-paste ib. to make long biscuit 76 to make spunge-biscuit 77 to make round biscuit with coriander-seeds 78 to make hartshorn-jelly 79 to make lemmon-jelly ib. to make butter'd orange 80 to make eringo-cream ib. to make barley-cream 81 to make ratafea-cream ib. to make almond-butter 82 to make a trifle ib. to make all sorts of fruit-cream 83 to make sack-posset, or sack-cream ib. to make blamange 84 lemmon-cream, made with cream 85 to make citron-cream ib. to make pistato-cream 86 to make clouted-cream ib. to make a very thick, raw cream 87 to make _spanish_-butter ib. to make orange-butter 88 to make almond-butter 89 to make trout-cream ib. to make almond-cream 90 to make raw-almond, or ratafea-cream 91 to make chocolate-cream ib. to make sego-cream 92 to ice cream ib. to make hartshorn-flummery 93 to make perfum'd pastels 94 to burn almonds 95 to make lemmon-wafers ib. to candy little green oranges 97 to candy cowslips, or any flowers or greens, in bunches ib. to make caramel 98 to make a good green 99 to sugar all sorts of small fruit ib. to scald all sorts of fruit 100 [decoration] [illustration] mrs. _eales_'s receipts. _to dry angelica._ take the stalks of angelica, and boil them tender; then put them to drain, and scrape off all the thin skin, and put them into scalding water; keep them close cover'd, and over a slow fire, not to boil, 'till they are green; then draining them well, put them in a very thick syrup of the weight and half of sugar: let the syrup be cold when you put them in, and warm it every day 'till it is clear, when you may lay them out to dry, sifting sugar upon them. lay out but as much as you use at a time, and scald the rest. _to preserve green apricocks._ take apricocks before the stones are very hard; wet them, and lay them in a coarse cloth; put to them two or three large handfuls of salt, rub them 'till the roughness is off, then put them in scalding water; set them over the fire 'till they almost boil, then set them off the fire 'till they are almost cold; do so two or three times; after this, let them be close cover'd; and when they look to be green, let them boil 'till they begin to be tender; weigh them, and make a syrup of their weight in sugar, to a pound of sugar allowing half a pint of water to make the syrup; let it be almost cold before you put in the apricocks; boil them up well 'till they are clear; warm the syrup daily, 'till it is pretty thick. you may put them in a codling-jelly, or hartshorn jelly, or dry them as you use them. _to make goosberry clear-cakes._ take a gallon of white goosberries, nose and wash them; put to them as much water as will cover them almost all over, set them on an hot fire, let them boil a quarter of an hour, or more, then run it thro' a flannel jelly-bag; to a pint of jelly have ready a pound and half of fine sugar, sifted thro' an hair sieve; set the jelly over the fire, let it just boil up, then shake in the sugar, stirring it all the while the sugar is putting in; then set it on the fire again, let it scald 'till all the sugar is well melted; then lay a thin strainer in a flat earthen pan, pour in your clear-cake jelly, and turn back the strainer to take off the scum; fill it into pots, and set it in the stove to dry; when it is candy'd on the top, turn it out on glass; and if your pots are too big, cut it; and when it is very dry, turn it again, and let it dry on the other side; twice turning is enough. if any of the cakes stick to the glass, hold them over a little fire, and they will come off: take care the jelly does not boil after the sugar is in: a gallon of goosberries will make three pints of jelly; if more, 'twill not be strong enough. _to make goosberry-paste._ take the goosberries, nose and wash them, put to them as much water as will almost cover them, and let them boil a quarter of an hour; then strain them thro' a thin strainer, or an hair-sieve, and allow to a pint of liquor a pound and half of fine sugar, sifted thro' a hair-sieve; before you put in the sugar, set the liquor on the fire, let it boil, and scum it; then shake in the sugar, set it on the fire again, and let it scald 'till all the sugar is melted; then fill it into little pots; when it is candy'd, turn it out on glass; and when it is dry on one side, turn it again; if any of the cakes stick, hold the glass over the fire: you may put some of this in plates; and when it is jelly'd, before it candies, cut it out in long slices, and make fruit-jambals. _to dry goosberries._ take the large white goosberries before they are very ripe, but at full growth, stone and wash them, and to a pound of goosberries put a pound and half of sugar, beat very fine, and half a pint of water; set them on the fire; when the sugar is melted, let them boil, but not too fast; take them off once or twice, that they may not break; when they begin to look clear, they are enough: let them stand all night in the pan they are boil'd in, with a paper laid close to them; the next day scald them very well, and let them stand a day or two; then lay them on plates, sift them with sugar very well, and put them in the stove, turning them every day 'till they are dry; the third time of turning, you may lay them on a sieve, if you please; when they are pretty dry, place them in a box, with paper betwixt every row. _to preserve goosberries._ take the white goosberries, stamp and strain them; then take the largest white goosberries when they just begin to turn, stone them, and to half a pound of the goosberries put a pound of loaf sugar beaten very fine, half a pint of the juice of that which is strain'd, (but let it stand 'till it is settled and very clear) and six spoonfuls of water; set them on a very quick fire; let them boil as fast as you can make them, up to the top of the pan; when you see the sugar as it boils look clear, they are enough, which will be in less than half a quarter of an hour: put them in pots or glasses, paper them close; the next day, if they are not hard enough jelly'd, set them for a day or two on an hot stove, or in some warm place, but not in the sun; and when they are jelly'd, put papers close to 'em; the papers must be first wet, and then dry'd with a cloth. _to dry cherries._ stone the cherries; and to ten pound of cherries, when they are ston'd, put three pound of sugar very fine beaten; shake the cherries and sugar well together, set them on the fire, and when the sugar is well melted, give them a boil or two; let them stand in an earthen pot 'till the next day, then make them scalding hot, and, when cold, lay them on sieves; afterwards put them in an oven not too hot, where let them stand all night, and then turn them, and put them in again. let your oven be no hotter than it is after small bread or pies. when they are dry, keep them in a box very close, with no paper between them. _to make cherry-jam._ take twelve pound of ston'd cherries, boil them, break them as they boil; and when you have boiled all the juice away, and can see the bottom of the pan, put in three pound of sugar finely beaten, stir it well, and let them have two or three boils; then put them in pots or glasses. _to dry cherries without sugar._ stone the cherries, and set them on the fire, with only what liquor comes out of them; let them boil up two or three times, shaking them as they boil; then put them in an earthen pot; the next day scald them, and when they are cold lay them on sieves, and dry them in an oven not too hot. twice heating an oven will dry any sort of cherries. _to dry cherries in bunches._ take _kentish_ cherries, or _morella_, and tye them in bunches with a thread, about a dozen in a bunch; and when you have dry'd your other cherries, put the syrup that they come out of to your bunches; let them just boil, cover them close, the next day scald them; and when they are cold, lay them in sieves in a cool oven; turn them, and heat the oven every day 'till they are dry. _to make cherry-paste._ take cherries, stone and boil them, breaking them well the while, and boil them very dry; and to a pound of cherries put a pound and a quarter of sugar, sifted thro' an hair sieve; let the cherries be hot when you put in the sugar; set it on the fire 'till the sugar is well melted; put it in a broad pan, or earthen plates; let it stand in the stove 'till it is candy'd; drop it on glass, and, when dry on one side, turn it. _to preserve cherries._ either _morella_ or _carnations_, stone the cherries: to _morella_ cherries, take the jelly of white currants, drawn with a little water; and run thro a jelly-bag a pint and a half of the jelly, and three pounds of fine sugar; set it on a quick fire; when it boils, scum it, and put in two pounds of the ston'd cherries; let them not boil too fast at first, take them off some times; when they are tender, boil them very fast 'till they jelly, and are very clear; then put them in the pots or glasses. the _carnation_ cherries must have red currants-jelly; and if you can get no white currants, codling-jelly will serve for the _morella_. _to dry currants in bunches or loose sprigs._ when your currants are ston'd and ty'd up in bunches, take to a pound of currants a pound and half of sugar; to a pound of sugar put half a pint of water; boil your syrup very well, and lay the currants into the syrup; set them on the fire, let them just boil, take them off, and cover them close with a paper; let them stand 'till the next day, and then make them scalding hot; let them stand two or three days with the paper close to them; then lay them on earthen plates, and sift them well with sugar; put them into a stove; the next day lay them on sieves, but not turn them 'till that side drys, then turn them, and sift the other side: when they are dry lay them between papers. _to make currant clear-cakes._ strip the currants, wash them, and to a gallon of currants put about a quart of water; boil it very well, run it thro' a jelly-bag; to a pint of jelly put a pound and half of sugar, sifted thro' an hair sieve; set your jelly on the fire, let it just boil; then shake in the sugar, stir it well, set it on the fire, and make it scalding hot; then put it thro' a strainer in a broad pan, to take off the scum, and fill it in pots: when it is candy'd, turn it on glass 'till that side be dry; then turn it again, to dry on the other side. red and white currants are done the same way; but as soon as the jelly of the white is made, you must put it to the sugar, or it will change colour. _to preserve red currants._ mash the currants, and strain them thro' a thin strainer; take a pint of juice, a pound and half of sugar, and six spoonfuls of water; let it boil up, and scum it very well; then put in half a pound of ston'd currants; boil them as fast as you can, 'till the currants are clear and jelly very well; put them in pots or glasses, and, when they are cold, paper them as other sweet-meats. stir all small fruit as they cool, to mix it with the jelly. _to make currant-paste, either red or white._ strip the currants, and put a little water to them, just to keep them from sticking to the pan; boil them well, and rub them thro' a hair sieve: to a pint of juice put a pound and a half of sugar sifted; but first boil the juice after it is strain'd, and then shake in your sugar: let it scald 'till the sugar is melted; then put it in little pots in a stove, and turn it as other paste. _to preserve white currants._ take the large white currants, not the amber-colour'd, strip them, and to two quarts of currants put a pint of water; boil them very fast, and run them thro' a jelly-bag; to a pint of juice put in a pound and half of sugar, and half a pound of ston'd currants; set them on a quick fire, let them boil very fast, 'till the currants are clear and jelly very well; then put them in pots or glasses; stir them as they cool, to make the currants mix with the jelly: paper them down when almost cold. _to preserve rasberries._ take the juice of red and white rasberries; (if you have no white rasberries, use half codling-jelly) put a pint and half of the juice to two pound of sugar; let it boil, scum it, and then put in three quarters of a pound of large rasberries; let them boil very fast, 'till they jelly and are very clear; don't take them off the fire, for that will make them hard; a quarter of an hour will do them after they begin to boil fast; then put them in pots or glasses: put the rasberries in first, then strain the jelly from the seeds, and put it to the rasberries. when they begin to cool, stir them, that they may not all lye upon the top of the glasses; and when they are cold, lay papers close to them; first wet the paper, then dry it in a cloth. _to make jam of rasberries._ take the rasberries, mash them, and strain half; put the juice to the other half that has the seeds in it; boil it fast for a quarter of an hour; then to a pint of rasberries put three quarters of a pound of sugar, and boil it 'till it jellies: put it into pots or glasses. _to make rasberry-paste._ mash the rasberries, strain half, and put the juice to the other half with the seeds; boil them fast for a quarter of an hour; and to a pint of rasberries put half a pint of red currants, boil'd with very little water, and strain'd thro' a thin strainer, or hair sieve; let the currants and rasberries boil together a little while: then to a pint of juice put a pound and a quarter of sifted sugar; set it over the fire, let it scald, but not boil; fill it in little pots, set it in the stove 'till it is candy'd, then turn it out on glasses, as other cakes. _to make rasberry clear-cakes._ take half rasberries and half white currants, almost cover them with water; boil them very well a quarter of an hour, then run them thro' a jelly-bag, and to every pint of jelly have ready a pound and half of fine sugar, sifted thro' an hair sieve; set the jelly on the fire, let it just boil, then shake in your sugar, stir it well, and set it on the fire a second time, 'till the sugar is melted; then lay a strainer in a broad pan to prevent the scum, and fill it into pots: when it is candy'd, turn it on glass, as other clear-cakes. _to make rasberry-drops._ mash the rasberries, put in a little water, boil and strain them, then take half a pound of fine sugar, sifted thro' an hair sieve; just wet the sugar to make it as thick as a paste; put to it twenty drops of spirits of vitriol, set it over the fire, making it scalding hot, but not to boil: drop it on paper it will soon be dry; if it will not come off easily, wet the paper. let them lye a day or two on the paper. _to dry apricocks._ take four dozen and a half of the largest apricocks, stone them and pare them; cover them all over with four pound of sugar finely beaten; put some of the sugar on them as you pare them, the rest after: let them lye four or five hours, 'till the sugar is almost melted; then set them on a slow fire 'till quite melted; then boil them, but not too fast. as they grow tender, take them out on an earthen plate 'till the rest are done; then put in those that you laid out first, and let them have a boil together: put a paper close to them, and let them stand a day or two; then make them very hot, but not boil; put the paper on them as before, and let them stand two days, then lay them on earthen plates in a stove, with as little syrup on them as you can; turn them every day 'till they are dry, and scrape off the syrup as you turn them; lay them between paper, and let them not be too dry before you lay them up. _to dry apricocks in quarters or halves._ take four pound of the halves or quarters, pare them, and put to them three pound of sugar fine beaten; strew some on them as you pare them, and cover them with the rest; let them lye four or five hours; afterwards set them on a slow fire, till the sugar is melted; then boil them, but not too fast, 'till they are tender, taking out those that are first tender; and putting them in again, let them have a boil together; then lay a paper close to them, scald them very well, and let them lye a day or two in the syrup: lay them on earthen plates, with as little syrup to them as you can, turning them every day 'till they are dry; at last, lay them between paper in boxes. _to make paring-chips._ as you pare your apricocks, save the clearest parings, and throw a little sugar on them; half a pound is sufficient to a pound of the parings; set them on the fire, let them just boil up, and set them by 'till the next day; drain the syrup from them, and make a syrup with a pound of sugar and almost half a pint of water; boil the sugar very well, and put as much to the chips when it is cold as will cover them; let them stand in the syrup all night, and the next day make them scalding hot; and when they are cold, lay them out on boards, sift them with sugar, and turn them on sieves. _to preserve apricocks._ take four dozen of large apricocks, stone and pare them, and cover them with three pound of fine beaten sugar, strewing some on as you pare them; let them stand, at least, six or seven hours, then boil them on a slow fire 'till they are clear and tender; if some of them are clear before the rest, take them out, and put them in again when the rest are ready. let them stand, with a paper close to them, 'till the next day; then make codling-jelly very strong: take two pints of jelly, two pound of sugar, boil it 'till it jellies; and whilst it is boiling, make your apricocks scalding hot, and put the jelly to your apricocks, and boil them together, but not too fast. when the apricocks rise in the jelly, and they jelly very well, put them into pots or glasses, with papers close to them. _to make apricock clear-cakes._ take about three dozen of apricocks, pare them, and put thereto a pound of fine sugar, and boil them to pieces; then put to them two quarts of codling-jelly, boil them together very fast for a quarter of an hour; run it thro' a jelly-bag, and to a pint of jelly put a pound and half of sugar, sifted thro' a hair sieve; while the jelly boils, shake in your sugar, and let it scald 'till the sugar is melted; then put it thro' a thin strainer, in a broad earthen pan; fill it in pots, and dry it as other clear-cakes. if you would have some with pieces in them, cut some of your dry'd quarters small; and when the strainer has taken off the scum, take some of the jelly in a pan, put in the pieces, make it scalding hot again, and fill it out. _to make apricock-paste._ take two pound of apricocks par'd, and a pound of sugar fine beaten, let them lye in the sugar 'till it is melted; then boil it well and mash it very small; put to it two pints of codling-jelly; let it boil together; and to a pound of it put a pound and a quarter of sifted sugar; let your paste boil before you put your sugar to it, then let it scald 'till the sugar is melted; fill it in pots, and dry it in the stove, turning it as other paste. _to make apple-jelly for all sorts of sweet-meats._ let your water boil in the pan you make it in; and when the apples are par'd and quarter'd, put them into the boiling water; let there be no more water than just to cover them, and let it boil as fast as possible; when the apples are all to pieces, put in about a quart of water more; let it boil at least half an hour; and then run it thro' a jelly-bag: in the _summer_, codlings are best; in _september_, golden runnets and _winter_ pippins. _to make apricock-jam._ take two pound of apricocks par'd, and a pint of codling-jelly, boil them very fast together 'till the jelly is almost wasted; then put to it a pound and half of fine sugar, and boil it very fast 'till it jellies; put it into pots or glasses. you may make fresh clear-cakes with this, and pippin-jelly, in the _winter_. _to preserve green jennitins._ cut out the stalk and nose, and put them in cold water on a coal-fire 'till they peel; then put them in the same water, and cover them very close; set them on a slow fire 'till they are green and tender; then, to a pound of apples take a pound and half of sugar, and half a pint of water; boil the syrup, put in the apples, and boil them fast, 'till they are very clear, and the syrup very thick, almost at a candy; then put in half a pint, or more, of codling-jelly, and the juice of a lemon, boil it 'till it jellies well, and put them in pots or glasses. _to dry green plums._ take the green amber plum, prick it all over with a pin; make water boiling hot, and put in the plums, be sure you have so much water, that it be not cold with the plums going in; cover them very close, and when they are almost cold, set them on the fire again, but not to let them boil; do so three or four times; when you see the thin skin crack'd, fling in a handful of allum fine beaten, and keep them in a scald 'till they begin to be green, then give them a boil close cover'd: when they are green, let them stand all night in fresh hot water; the next day have ready as much clarify'd sugar as will cover them; drain your plums, put them into the syrup, and give them two or three boils; repeat it two or three days, 'till they are very clear; let them stand in their syrup above a week; then lay them out on sieves, in a hot stove, to dry: if you would have your plums green very soon, instead of allom, take verdigreece finely beaten, and put in vinegar; shake it in a bottle, and put it into them when the skin cracks; let them have a boil, and they will be very soon green; you may put some of them in codling-jelly, first boiling the jelly with the weight in sugar. _to dry amber, or any white plums._ slit your plums in the seam; then make a thin syrup. if you have any apricock-syrup left, after your apricocks are dry'd, put a pint of syrup to two quarts of water; if you have none, clarify single-refin'd loaf-sugar, and make a thin syrup: make the syrup scalding hot, and put in the plums; there must be so much syrup as will more than cover the plums; they must be kept under the syrup, or they will turn red: keep them in a scald 'till they are tender, but not too soft; then have ready a thick syrup of the same sugar, clarify'd and cold, as much as will cover the plums; let them boil, but not too fast, 'till they are very tender and clear, setting them sometimes off the fire; then lay a paper close to them, and set them by 'till the next day; then boil them again 'till the syrup is very thick; let them lye in the syrup four or five days, then lay them on sieves to dry: you may put some in codling-jelly, first boiling the jelly with the weight in sugar, and put in the plums hot to the jelly. put them in pots or glasses. _to dry black pear-plums, or muscles, or the great moguls._ stone your plums, and put them in a large earthen pot; make a syrup with a pound of single-refin'd sugar and three pints of water; or if you have the syrup the white plums are dry'd out of, thin it with water, it will do as well as sugar; boil your syrup well, and when it is cold enough to hold your hand in it, put it to the plums; cover them close, and let them stand all night; heat the syrup two or three times, but never too hot; when they are tender, lay them on sieves, with the slit downwards to dry; put them in the oven, made no hotter than it is after bread or pyes come out of it; let them stand all night therein; then open them and turn them, and set them in a cool oven again, or in an hot stove, for a day or two; but if they are too dry, they will not be smooth; then make a jam to fill them with. take ten pound of plums, the same sort of your skins, cut them off the stones, put to them three pound of powder-sugar; boil them on a slow fire, keeping them stirring 'till it's so stiff, that it will lye in a heap in the pan; it will be boiling at least four or five hours; lay it on earthen plates; when it is cold, break it with your hands, and fill your skins; then wash every plum, and wipe all the clam off with a cloth: as you wash them, lay them on a sieve; put them in the oven, make your oven as hot as for your skins; let them stand all night, and they will be blue in the morning. the great white mogul makes a fine black plum; stone them, and put them in the syrup with or after the black plum; and heat the syrup every day, 'till they are of a dark colour; they will blue as well as the muscles, and better than the black pear-plums. if any of these plums grow rusty in the _winter_, put them into boiling hot water; let them lye no longer than to be well wash'd: lay them on a sieve, not singly, but one on the other, and they will blue the better: put them in a cool oven all night, they will be as blue and fresh as at first. _to preserve black pear-plums or damascenes._ take two pound of plums, and cut them in the seam; then take a pint and half of jelly, made of the same plum, and three pound and a half of sugar; boil the jelly and sugar, and scum it well; put your plums in a pot; pour the jelly on them scalding hot: when they are almost cold, heat them again; so do 'till they are tender, and then let them stand two or three days, heating them every day; then boil them 'till they look clear and jelly: don't boil them too fast. _to preserve white pear-plums._ slit your plums, and scald them in a thin syrup; as for drying them, put them in a thick syrup of clarify'd sugar, as much as will cover them; let them boil very slow, 'till they are very clear, sometimes setting them, off the fire: they must have the weight, or something more, of clarify'd sugar in the syrup: when they are very tender and clear, put to a pound of plums (when they are raw) a pint of apple-jelly, and a pound of fine sugar, and boil it 'till it jellies; before your plums are cold put them into the jelly, but not above half the syrup they were boil'd in, and boil them together 'till they jelly well: put them in pots or glasses, with papers close to them. you may keep some of them in syrup, and put them in jelly as you use them. _to make white pear-plum clear-cakes._ take a good quantity of white pear-plums, as many as you think will make three pints, with as much boiling water as will cover them; boil them very fast, 'till they are all to pieces; then have ready three pints of apple-jelly, and put it to the plums, boiling them very fast together; then run it thro' a jelly-bag: to a pint put a pound and half of sifted sugar; first boil the jelly, and shake in the sugar; let it scald on the fire 'till it is melted; put it in pots in the stove; dry and turn it as other clear-cakes. _to make white plum-paste._ take a pound of fine sugar, and a pint of water, or more, as the quantity you intend to make requires; set it on the fire, let it boil, and set a pan of water to boil; when it boils, put in your plums; let them just boil, and then take them out with a ladle, as they flip their skins off; take off the skins, and put the plums into the syrup; do this as fast as you can, that they may not turn: boil them all to pieces; and to a quart of plums put a pint of apple-jelly; boil them well together, and rub it thro' a hair sieve; to a pint of this put a pound and a half of sifted sugar; let the jelly boil before you shake the sugar, and let it scald 'till the sugar is well melted; skin it, put it in pots, and dry it in the stove. _to make red plum clear-cakes._ take white pear-plums, half white and half black, or if you have no black, one third of damsins, and as much water as will cover them; boil them very well; and to a quart of the plums put a quart of apple-jelly; boil them very well together; run it thro' a jelly-bag; to a pint of the jelly put a pound and half of sugar; let the jelly boil, then shake in the sugar; let it scald, but not boil; put it thro' a thin strainer in a broad pan, to take off the scum, and put it in pots in a stove: when it is candy'd, turn it as other clear-cakes: you may make it paler or redder, as you best like, with more or less black plums. _to make red plum-paste._ take half white and half red plums, as you did for the clear-cakes; boil them with as much water as will cover them; then, to a quart of plums put a pint of apple-jelly; let them boil well together; rub it thro' an hair sieve; to a pint of jelly put in a pound and half of sugar; boil the jelly, and shake in the sugar; let it scald 'till the sugar is melted, skin it well, and fill in pots; dry it as other cakes: you may put some of this in plates, and make fruit-jambals. _to dry plums like the french plums, with stones in them._ when you have laid out all your plums that are to be stopt, put white pear-plums, or any large black plums, in an earthen pot, and make your plum-syrup almost scalding hot; put it to the plums, and scald the syrup every day, 'till the plums are tender and red; then lay them on sieves, and dry them in an oven, turning them every day 'till they are dry; then lay them between papers, and keep them in a dry place. _to dry peaches._ stone the largest white _newington_ peaches, and pare them, and have ready a pan over the fire with boiling water; put in the peaches, and let them boil 'till they are tender; then lay them on a sieve to drain out all the water; weigh them, and lay them in the pan you boil them in, and cover them with their weight in sugar; let them lye two or three hours; then boil them 'till they are clear, and the syrup pretty thick; set them by cover'd, with a paper close to them; the next day scald them very well, setting them off the fire and on again, 'till the peaches are thorough hot; repeat this for three days; then lay them on plates to dry, and turn them every day 'till dry. _to make peach-chips._ pare the peaches, and cut them in thin chips; to four pound of chips put three pound and a half of fine beaten sugar; let the sugar and chips lye a little while, 'till the sugar is well melted, then boil them fast 'till they are clear; about half an hour will do them enough; set them by 'till the next day, then scald them very well two days, and lay them on earthen plates in a stove; sift on them fine sugar, through a lawn sieve; turn them every day, sifting them 'till almost dry; then lay them on a sieve a day or two more in the stove: lay them in a box close together, and when they have lain so a week, pick them asunder, that they may not be in lumps. _to preserve or dry nutmeg-peaches._ peel the peaches, and put them in boiling water; let them boil a quarter of an hour; lay them to drain, weigh them, and to a pound of peaches put a pound of fine sugar beaten very small; when the sugar is pretty well melted, boil them very fast 'till they are clear; set them by 'till they are cold; then scald them very well; take to every pint of peach a pint of codling-jelly and a pound of sugar; boil it 'till it jellies very well, then put in the peaches and half the syrup; let them boil fast; then put them in pots or glasses: if you wou'd dry them, scald them three or four days, and dry them out of their syrup. _to preserve cucumbers._ take cucumbers of the same bigness that you wou'd to pickle; pick them fresh, green, and free from spots; boil them in water 'till they are tender; then run a knitting-needle through them the long way, and scrape off all roughness; then green them, which is done thus: let your water be ready to boil, take it off, and put in a good piece of roach-allum; set it on the fire, and put in the cucumbers; cover them close 'till you see they look green; weigh them, and take their weight in single-refin'd sugar clarify'd; to a pound of sugar put a pint of water; put your cucumbers in; boil them a little close-cover'd; set them by, and boil them a little every day for four days; then take them out of your syrup, and make a syrup of double-refin'd sugar, a pound of sugar and half a pint of water to every pound of cucumbers; put in your cucumbers, and boil them 'till they are clear; then put in the juice of two or three lemmons, and a little orange-flower-water, and give them a boil altogether: you may either lay them out to dry, or keep them in syrup; but every time you take any out, make the other scalding hot, and they will keep two or three years. _to dry green figs._ take the white figs at the full bigness, before they turn colour; slit them at the bottom; put your figs in scalding water; keep them in a scald, but not boil them 'till they are turn'd yellow; then let them stand 'till they are cold; they must be close cover'd, and something on them to keep them under water; set them on the fire again, and when they are ready to boil, put to them a little verdigrease and vinegar, and keep them in a scald 'till they are green; then put them in boiling water; let them boil 'till they are very tender; drain them well from the water, and to every pound clarify a pound and half of single-refin'd sugar, and when the sugar is cold put in the figs; let them lye all night in the cold syrup; the next day boil them 'till they are very clear, and the syrup thick, and scald them every day for a week; then lay them to dry in a stove, turning them every day; weigh your figs when they are raw; and when you clarify your sugar, put half a pint of water to a pound of sugar: if your figs grow too dry, you may put them in their syrup again; they will look new to the end of the year. _to dry black figs._ weigh the figs, and slit them at the bottom; put them into boiling water, and boil them 'till they are very tender; drain them well from the water; then make a syrup of clarify'd single-refin'd loaf-sugar, with their weight, and half a pint of water to a pound of sugar; when the syrup is cold put in your figs; let them lye all night; the next day boil them 'till they are very clear, and scald them every day 'till the syrup is very thick; then lay them out as you use them; but heat the syrup after you have taken some out, or they will not keep: if they grow too dry, you may put them in the syrup again, scalding the syrup. _to preserve grapes._ peel the grapes and stone them; put them in a pan, cover them very close; first let them boil, and set them sometimes on and off the fire, 'till they are very green; then drain all the juice from them; and to a pint of grapes put a pound and a half of sugar, and half a pint of apple-jelly; let them boil very fast 'till they are clear, and jelly very well: put them in pots or glasses, with paper close to them. _to dry grapes._ take the large bell-grapes, just before they are ripe; stone them in bunches, and put them into scalding water, covering them close with vine-leaves, and a cover on the pan; keep them in a scald, putting them on and off the fire 'till they are green; then give them a boil in the water, drain them on a sieve, and to every pound of grapes make a thick syrup of a pound and a half of clarify'd sugar; and when the syrup is cold, put in the grapes, and scald them every day 'till the syrup is thick, but never let them boil; then lay them out on earthen plates, and sift them very well with sugar; dry them in a stove, and turn and sift them every day. _to dry barberries._ take barberries, stone them, and tye them in bunches, or loose in sprigs, which you please; weigh them, and to every pound of barberries clarify two pound of sugar; make your syrup with something more than half a pint of water to a pound of sugar; put the barberries into the syrup when it is scalding hot; set it on the fire, and let them just boil; then set them by, with a paper close to them; the next day make them scalding hot, doing so for two days; but be sure they never boil after the first time; when they are cold, lay them out on earthen plates; sift them well with sugar, and the next day turn them on a sieve; sift them again, and turn them every day 'till they are dry: your stove must not be too hot. _to preserve barberries._ stone the barberries in sprigs; and to a pound of barberries make a syrup of a pound and a half of fine sugar, with half a pint of water to a pound of sugar: put the barberries in the syrup, and let them have a boil; scald them every day for four or five days, but don't let them boil: put them in a pot, and when you use any, heat the rest, or they will not keep. _to make barberry-drops._ take a good quantity of barberries, strip them off the stalks; put to them a little water, to keep them from burning; boil them, and mash them as they boil, till they are very dry; then rub them through an hair sieve, and afterwards strain them through a strainer, that there may be none of the black noses in it; make it scalding hot, and to half a pint of the pulp put a pound of the sifted sugar; let it scald, and drop it on boards or glasses; then put it in a stove, and turn it when it is candy'd. _to make white quince-marmalet._ pare quinces, and quarter them, putting as much water as will cover them, and boil them all to pieces to make jelly; run it through a jelly-bag; then take a pound of quince, pare, quarter, and cut out all the hard of it; and to a pound of quinces put a pound and a half of sugar fine beaten, and half a pint of water, and let it boil 'till it is very clear; keep it stirring, and it will break as much as shou'd be; when the sugar is boil'd to be very thick, almost a candy, put in half a pint of jelly, and let it boil very fast 'till it jellies: as soon as you take it off, put in the juice of a lemon; skim it well, and put it in pots or glasses: it is the better for having lumps in it. _to make red quince-marmalet._ pare the quinces, quarter them, and cut out all that is hard; to a pound of quinces put in a pound and a half of sugar, and half a pint of juice of barberries, boil'd with water, as you do jelly, or other fruit; boil it very fast, and break it very small; when it is all to pieces, and jellies, it is enough: if you wou'd have the marmalet of a very fine colour, put a few black bullace to the barberries when you make the jelly. _to preserve whole quinces._ take a pound of quince par'd and quarter'd, cut out all the hard, put to it a pound of fine sugar and half a pint of water, and let it boil very fast 'till it is all to pieces; take it off the fire, and break it very well, that there be no lumps in it; boil it 'till it is very thick and well jelly'd; then take fine muslin, and put your quinces into it, and tye it up round. this quantity will make three quinces. set them into three pots, or _china_ cups, that will just hold one; cut off the stalk-end of the quince, and put it in the pot or cup, to make a dent in the quince, that it may be like a whole quince; let them stand two or three days, that they may be very stiff; take them out of the muslin, and make a strong jelly with apples and quinces: take two pints of jelly and two pound of sugar, boil it fast 'till it jellies very well; then put in the quinces, and let them have two or three boils to make them hot; put them in pots or glasses, with paper close to them. _to make quince-chips._ pare the quinces, and slice them into water; put them into boiling water; let them boil fast 'till they are very tender, but not so soft as to break them: take them out with a skimmer, lay them on a sieve 'till they are well drain'd, and have ready a very thick syrup of clarify'd sugar; put them into as much as will cover them, then boil them 'till they are very clear, and the next day scald them; and if you see they want syrup, put in a pint more, but let it be very thick: scald them twice more, then lay them out on earthen plates in a stove, sift them well with sugar: turn them and sift them 'till they are dry. _to make quince-paste._ pare the quinces, and quarter them; to a pound of quince put half a pound of sugar and half a pint of water; boil it fast 'till the quinces are all to pieces; then rub it very fine, 'till there be no lumps in it, and put to it a pint of jelly of quince, boil'd with as much water as will cover them, and run through a jelly-bag; boil the quinces jelly together, and to a pint of it put a pound and a quarter of fine sugar; let it scald, but not boil, 'till the sugar is melted; skim it, and put it in the stove; turn it when it is candy'd; twice turning will do. _to make quince clear-cakes._ pare, quarter, and boil the quince with as much water as will cover it, putting in a little more as it boils, but not too much; let it be a very strong jelly, and run it through a jelly-bag; put a pound and a half of the finest sifted sugar to a pint of jelly; let the jelly boil, then put in the sugar, and let it scald 'till the sugar is melted; then put it through a strainer, laid in a broad earthen pan; fill it in little pots, and when it is hard candy'd, turn it on glasses as other clear-cakes: colour the jelly, if you wou'd have any red quince clear-cakes, with the jelly of black bullace, and let it boil after the red is in, before you put in the sugar. _to preserve golden or kentish-pippins._ boil the rind of an orange very tender, and let it lye in water two or three days; then make a strong jelly with pippins, and run it through a jelly-bag. take golden-pippins, pare them, and scoop out all the coar at the stalk end: to twelve pippins put two pound of sugar and three quarters of a pint of water, boil the sugar and skim it; put in the pippins and the orange-rind cut into thin slices; let them boil as fast as they can 'till the sugar is very thick, and almost a candy; then put in a pint of the pippin-jelly, and boil them very fast 'till they jelly very well; then put in the juice of a lemmon, give it one boil, and put them in pots or glasses, with the orange mix'd with them. the _kentish_ pippins are better in quarters than whole. _to preserve whole oranges or lemmons._ rasp them very thin, just the outside rind off; lay them in water twenty four hours; then set them on the fire with a good quantity of water; let them boil 'till they are very tender; then put them in cold water again, and let them lye two days; the lemmons need not lye but one day; then, to four oranges or lemmons put two pound of fine sugar and a pint of water; boil and skim it, and when it is cold, put in the oranges or lemmons, and let them lye four or five days in cold syrup; then boil them 'till they are clear; set them by in an earthen pan a day or two more; then boil them again, and put them in jelly, thus: take pippin-jelly, and to a pint put a pound of fine sugar; boil it 'till the jelly is very strong; then heat your oranges, and put them to the jelly, with half their syrup; boil them very fast a quarter of an hour; when you take them off the fire, put in the juice of two or three lemmons; put them in pots that will hold the jelly: to four oranges you may put one pint and a half of jelly, and one pound and a half of sugar. lemmons must be done by themselves. _sevil_ oranges and _malaga_ lemmons are best. _to dry oranges in knots, or lemmons._ rasp the oranges or lemmons with a sharp knife, as thin and as small as you can, and break the rasping as little as you can, that the outside rind may make but two or three knots; then cut the oranges, and pick out all the meat; and the white rind makes another sort of knots: let both the rinds lye two days in a sieve, or broad pan, before you boil them, or they will break; then put them in cold water, and boil them about an hour; let them drain well from the water, and clarify as much single-refin'd sugar as will cover them very well; when the syrup is cold put them in, and let them stand four or five days; dry them out as you use them; and when you take any out to dry, boil them which you leave in the syrup. they must be candy'd out thus: take as many as you desire to dry; the white halves must be cut in rings, or quarters, as you like them; then take as much clarify'd sugar as will cover them; boil them very fast a great while, 'till the sugar shall blow, which you may see, if you put in a ladle with holes, and blow thro', you will see the sugar fly from the ladle; then take it off, and rub the candy against the pan sides, and round the bottom, 'till the sugar looks oily; then put them out on a sieve, to let the sugar run from them; and as quick as possible lay them in knots on another sieve; set them in a stove, they will be dry in an hour or two: if you do but a few at a time, the syrup you put to them at first will do them out. whole oranges or lemmons are done the fame way, only boil the whole after they are rasp'd, and cut a hole at the top, and pick out all the meat after they are boil'd, and before they are put in the syrup; and when they are laid on a sieve to dry, put the piece in again. _to make china chips._ cut the rind of _china_ oranges in long chips, but very thin, and with none of the white; boil them in water 'till they are very tender; then drain them, and put them into a very thick cold syrup of clarify'd sugar; let them lye a day or two; then scald them, and when they are cold lay them to dry on earthen plates in a stove. _sevil_ oranges will do the same way, if you like them with a little sugar, and very bitter. _to make orange-paste._ rasp the oranges, and you may make the outside for knots; then cut the oranges, and pick out all the meat, and all the stones from the meat; boil the white rinds very tender, drain them well, and beat them fine; to a pint and half of the meat put a pound of the beaten rind; mix it well, make it scalding hot; then put in three pound of fine sugar sifted thro' an hair sieve; stir it well in, and scald it 'till the sugar is well melted; then put in the juice of three large lemmons: put the paste in flat earthen pans, or deep plates; set it in the stove 'till it is candy'd; then drop it on glasses: let what is too thin to drop stand 'till 'tis candy'd again: once turning will dry it. _sevil_ oranges make the best. _to make orange-drops._ take about a dozen oranges, squeeze out the juice, boil the rind very tender, cut out most of the white, and beat the yellow rind very fine; rub it thro' an hair sieve, and to a pound of the pulp put a pound and a half of fine sugar, sifted thro' an hair sieve; mix it well in, and put in the juice 'till you make it thin enough to drop from a tea-spoon: drop it on glasses, and set it by the fire; let it stand there about two hours, and then put it in a stove; the next day turn it: it will be dry in twenty four hours. _to make orange-marmalet._ rasp the oranges, cut out the meat, boil the rinds very tender, and beat them very fine; then take three pound of fine sugar and a pint of water, boil and skim it; then put in a pound of rind, boil it fast 'till the sugar is very thick; then put in a pint of the meat of the orange, (the seeds being pick'd out) and a pint of very strong pippin-jelly; boil all together very fast, 'till it jellies very well, which will be half an hour; then put it in pots or glasses, with papers close to it. _to make orange or lemmon clear-cakes._ make a very strong pippin-jelly; when it is run thro' a jelly-bag, take a quart of jelly, and the meat of three or four oranges, boil them together, and rub it thro' a jelly-bag again; then take a quarter of a pint of orange-juice, a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, and let it have a boil; then put it into your jelly, but first measure your jelly; put half the syrup of the oranges to a pint of juice, and the outside of an orange, boil'd in two or three waters, and shred very fine; make them scalding hot together; then to a pint of jelly take a pound and a half of sugar, boiling the sugar to a candy; then put in your jelly, but not altogether; because if it all boil in the hot sugar, it will not dry: as soon as it has done boiling, put in the rest; set it over the fire 'till all the candy is well melted; but take care it does not boil; then fill it in little pots, dry and turn it on glasses, as other clear-cakes. lemmons are done the same way. _to make pomegranate clear-cakes._ make a strong pippin-jelly, and slice a lemmon into it, rind and all; boil it well, and run it thro' the jelly-bag again; then colour it as you like it: to a pint of the jelly take half a quarter of orange-syrup, made as for orange clear-cakes; let it have a boil together, and boil a pound and a half of sugar to a candy; put your jelly to the candy, a little at a time, 'till the sugar has done boiling, then put in all the rest; scald it 'till the candy is well melted, fill it in pots, and dry it as other clear-cakes. the colour is made thus: take as much carmine as you can have for half-a-crown, put to it two ounces of sugar, and as much water as will wet it; give it a boil, and then colour your jelly with it. _to make orange-halves, or quarters, with the meat in them._ rasp the oranges round and thin, cut them in halves, pick out the meat, boil the halves very tender, then take half of them, that are clearest and best, and put them in a thick cold syrup, as much as will cover them; the syrup must be made with fine sugar, half a pint of water to a pound of sugar; beat the other half of the rinds very fine; pick the seeds out of the meat; and to a pint of the meat put half a pound of the beaten rinds; scald it very well, and stir it into a pound and a half of sifted sugar; scald it 'till the sugar is well melted; put in the juice of a lemmon or two; set it in a broad earthen pan in a stove; when the half orange-rinds have lain three or four days in the syrup, boil them very fast 'till they are clear, and the syrup very thick; when they are cold, lay them out on earthen plates in a stove; the next day, if you think they have not sugar enough on them, dip them in the syrup that runs from them; they must not have dry sugar on them, but only a gloss; before they are quite dry, fill them with the meat; set them on a sieve, to dry in a stove, which will be in a day or two. _to preserve citrons._ take the largest _malaga_ citrons, cut them in four quarters, scrape the rind a little, but not all the yellow off; cut out all the meat; lay them in water all night; then boil them very tender, and lay them in water another night; then drain them very well, and to three pound of citron take four pound of fine sugar and two quarts of water; make the sugar and water just warm, put in the citron, boil it half an hour, and set it by 'till the next day; then boil it 'till it is very clear, and put in a pound more of sugar, just wet with water, boiling it fast 'till it is melted: put in the juice of four lemmons, and put it up in large pots. _to make citron marmalet._ boil the citron very tender, cut off all the yellow rind, beat the white very well in a tray, or wooden bowl, shred the rind, and to a pound of the pulp and rind take a pound and a half of sugar and half a pint of water; when it boils, put in the citron, boil it very fast 'till it is clear; then put in half a pint of pippin-jelly, and boil it 'till it jellies very well; then put in the juice of a lemmon: put it in pots or glasses. _to candy orange-flowers._ take the flowers full blown, pick the white leaves, and put them in water an hour or two; then put them into boiling water, letting them boil 'till they are tender; then drain them from that water, and let them lye in cold water, 'till you make a syrup of very fine sugar, as much as you think will cover them; to a pound of sugar put three quarters of a pint of water; and when the syrup is cold, put in the leaves, and let them lye all night; scald them the next day, and let them lye in the syrup two or three days; then make a syrup, (if you have a pound of the flowers) with a pound and half of fine sugar and half a pint of water; boil and skim it, and when it is cold, drain the flowers from the thin syrup, and put them in the thick; let them lye two or three days; then make them just hot, and in a day or two more lay them out on glasses: spread them very thin, sift them with fine sugar, and put them in a stove: four or five hours will dry them on one side; then scrape them on paper with the wet side uppermost, and set them in the stove 'till they are almost dry; then pick them asunder, and let them be in a stove 'till they are quite dry: you may put some of them in jelly, if you like it. _to make rock-sugar._ take a red earthen pot, that will hold about four quarts, (those pots that are something less at the top and bottom than in the middle) stick it pretty thick with the sticks of a white wisk, a-cross, one over the other; set it before a good fire, that it may be very hot against your sugar is boil'd; then take ten pound of double-refin'd sugar finely beaten, the whites of two eggs beaten to a froth in half a pint of water, and mix it with the sugar; then put to it a quart of orange-flower-water and three half pints of water, setting it on a quick fire; when it boils thoroughly put in half a pint of water more to raise the scum, and let it boil up again; then take it off and skim it; do so two or three times, 'till it is very clear; then let it boil, 'till you find it draw between your fingers, which you must often try, with taking a little in the ladle; and as it cools, it will draw like a thread; then put it into the hot pot, covering it close, and setting it in a very hot stove for three days: it must stand three weeks; but after the three first days a moderate fire will do; but never stir the pots, nor let the stove be quite cold: then take it out, and pour out all the syrup, the rock will be on the sticks and the pot-sides: set the pots in cold water, in a pan, on the fire, and when it is thorough hot all the rock will slip out, and fall most of it in small pieces; the sticks you must just dip in hot water, and that will make the rock slip off; then put in a good handful of dry orange-flowers, and take a ladle with holes, and put the rock and flowers in it, as much as will make as big a lump as you wou'd like; dip it in scalding water, and lay it on a tin plate; then make it up in handsome lumps, and as hollow as you can: when it is so far prepar'd, put it in a hot stove, and the next day it will stick together; then take it off the plates, and let it lye two or three hours in the stove; if there be any large pieces, you may make bottoms of them, and lay small pieces on them. _to make fruit-biscuit._ scald the fruit, dry it well from the water, and rub it through a hair sieve; stir it in a pan over a slow fire, 'till it is pretty dry; the stiffer it is, the better; then take two pound of fine sugar, sifted thro' an hair sieve, and a spoonful of gum-dragon steep'd very well, and strain'd, and about a quarter of a pound of fruit; mix it well with sugar, beat it with a biscuit-beater, and take the whites of twelve eggs, beat up to a very stiff froth; put in but a little at a time, beating it 'till it is all in, and looks as white as snow, and very thick; then drop it on papers, and put it in an oven; the oven must be very cool, and shut up, to make them rise: the lemmon-biscuit is made the same way, only instead of fruit put in the juice of three lemmons; less will make two pound; it must have juice enough to make it to a paste, and the rinds of two lemmons grated; and when it is beaten enough, put in a little musk, or amber, and drop and bake it as other. _to make all sorts of sugar-paste._ sift your sugar thro' a lawn sieve, then sift some starch as fine; to a pound of sugar put a quarter of a pound of starch; make it of what colour you please, into a stiff paste; putting thereto gum-dragon well steep'd in orange-flower-water; beat it well in a mortar, and make it in knots or shells in a mould or moss, with rubbing it thro' an hair sieve: the red must be colour'd with carmine; the yellow with gumboodge, steep'd in water, and put to the gum; the green is made with yellow gum, putting to it stone-blue steep'd in water; the brown with chocolate, and the blue with smalt. _to make chocolate-almonds._ take two pound of fine sifted sugar, half a pound of chocolate grated, and sifted thro' an hair sieve, a grain of musk, a grain of amber, and two spoonfuls of ben; make this up to a stiff paste with gum-dragon steep'd well in orange-flower-water; beat it well in a mortar; make it in a mould like almonds; lay them to dry on papers, but not in a stove. _to make wormwood-cakes._ sift fine sugar thro' an hair sieve, and cover it with carmine; wet it more than a candy with water; boil it pretty fast 'till it is almost at a candy height; then put in about three drops of spirit of wormwood, and fill it into little coffins made of cards; when it boils in the coffins it is enough; you must not boil above half a pound at a time, or less: the spirit of wormwood must be that which looks black, and as thick as oil, and must have two or three boils in the cakes after you put it in. _to make honeycomb-cakes of orange-flower-violet of cowslips._ take about half a pound of fine sugar, sifted thro' an hair sieve, wet it more than for a candy, with orange-flower-water, for the orange-flower-cakes, and fair water for the other cakes; boil it almost to candy height, and then put in the leaves of the flowers; boil them a little in the candy, or it will be too thin; then put it in card-coffins. _to make ice almond-cakes._ beat a pound of almonds very fine, with rose-water, to keep them from oiling; mix them with half a pound of sifted sugar, make them up into little long or round cakes, which you like best; put them in a stove or before a fire, 'till they are dry on one side, and then turn them; and when they are dry on both sides, take very fine sugar sifted; to a pound take as much white of eggs as will just wet it; beat it with a spoon, and as it grows white put in a little more egg, 'till it is thin enough to ice the cakes; then ice first one side, and when that is dry before the fire, ice the other: be sure one side is dry before you do the other. _to make bean'd-bread._ blanch half a pound of almonds, slice them thin the long way, lay them in rose-water all night; then drain them from the water, and set them by the fire, stirring them 'till they are a little dry and very hot; then put to them fine sugar sifted, enough to hang about them. (they must not be so wet as to make the sugar like paste; nor so dry, but that the sugar may hang together.) then lay them in lumps on wafer-paper, and set them on papers in an oven, after puffs, or any very cool oven that pies have been baked in. _to make orange or lemmon-puffs._ take a pound of fine sifted sugar, and grate the outside rind of two large oranges or lemmons; put the rind to the sugar, and beat them well together in a mortar; grind it well with a pestle, and make it up to a stiff paste with gum-dragon well steep'd; then beat the paste again, rowl or square it, and bake it in a cool oven, on papers and tin-plates. _to make almond-paste, either bitter or sweet: the bitter are ratafea._ blanch and beat a pound of almonds; put in just rose-water enough to keep them from oiling; then take a pound of fine sugar, and boil it to a candy; and when it is almost at a candy height, put in the almonds; stir them over a cool fire 'till it is a very dry stiff paste, and almost cold, and set it by 'till it is quite cold; then beat it well in a mortar, and put to it a pound and a half of fine sifted sugar; rub it very well together, and make it up with a spoonful of well-steep'd gum-dragon and whites of eggs, whip'd to a froth; then squirt it, and bake it in a cool oven; put into the sweet-almonds the rind of a lemmon grated, but none in the bitter: if you don't make the first paste stiff, they will run about the oven. bake them on papers and tin-plates. _to make little round ratafea-puffs._ take half a pound of kernels, or bitter-almonds, beat very stiff, and a pound and a half of sifted sugar; make it up to a stiff paste with white of eggs whip'd to a froth; beat it well in a mortar, and make it up in little loaves; then bake them in a very cool oven, on paper and tin-plates. _to make brown-wafers._ take half a pint of milk and half a pint of cream, and put to it half a pound of brown sugar; melt and strain it thro' a sieve; take as much fine flower as will make one half of the milk and cream very stiff, then put in the other half; stir it all the while, that it may not be in lumps; then put in two eggs well beaten, a little sack, some mace shred fine, two or three cloves beaten: bake in irons. _to make almond-loaves._ beat a pound of almonds very fine, mix them well with three quarters of a pound of sifted sugar, set them over the fire, keep them stirring 'till they are stiff, and put in the rind of a lemmon grated; make them up in little loaves, shake them very well in the whites of eggs beat to a very stiff froth, that the egg may hang about them; then put them in a pan with about a pound of fine sifted sugar, shake them 'till they are well cover'd with the sugar; divide them if they stick together, and add more sugar, 'till they begin to be smooth, and dry; and when you put them on papers to bake, shake them in a pan that is just wet with white of eggs, to make them have a gloss: bake them after biscuit, on papers and tin-plates. _to make chocolate-puffs._ take a pound of fine sifted sugar, and three ounces of chocolate grated, and sifted thro' an hair sieve; make it up to a paste with white of eggs whip'd to a froth; then beat it well in a mortar, and make it up in loaves, or any fashion you please. bake it in a cool oven, on papers and tin-plates. _to make ratafea-drops, either of apricock-kernels, or half bitter, and half sweet-almonds._ take a pound of kernels or almonds beat very fine with rose-water; take a pound of sifted sugar and the whites of five eggs beat to a froth, mix them well together, and set them on a slow fire; keep them stirring, 'till they begin to be stiff; when they are quite cold, make them in little round drops: bake them after the long biscuit, on paper and tin-plates. _to make all sorts of sugar-puffs._ take very fine beaten sugar, sifted thro' a lawn sieve, make it up into a paste, with gum-dragon very well steep'd in rose-water, or orange-flower-water; beat it in a mortar, squirt it, and bake it in a cool oven. colour the red with carmine, blue with powder-blue, yellow with steep'd gamboodge put into gum, and yellow and blue will make green: bake them after all other puffs. sugar the papers well before you squirt the puffs on papers and tin-plates. _to make almond-paste._ lay a pound of almonds all night in water, and warm some water the next day to make them blanch, and then beat them very fine with rose-water; and to a pound of almonds take a pound and a quarter of fine sugar; wet it with water, boil it to a candy height, and then put to your almonds three spoonfuls of rose-water, mix it, and put it to the candy; set it over the fire 'till it is scalding hot, then put in the juice of a lemmon and the rind grated; stir it over the fire, and then drop it on glass or clean boards: put it in a hot stove; twelve hours will dry it; then turn it, and dry it the other side. _to make long-biscuit._ take thirty eggs, (the whites of fourteen (break twenty eight of them; beat them very well with two spoonfuls of rose-water; then put in three pound of sifted sugar, and beat it all the while the oven is heating; then dry two pound and a quarter of fine flower, let it be cold before you put it in, and put in the two eggs left out; stir it well, and drop it. it must have a very quick oven. bake it almost as fast as you can fill your oven; the papers must be laid on tin-plates, or they will burn at the bottom. this fame biscuit was the queen's seed-biscuit. put to half this quantity half a pound of caraway-seeds, and bake it in large square tin-pans, buttering the pans: it bakes best in a cool oven, after the drop-biscuit is baked. _to make spunge-biscuit._ take the yolks of eighteen eggs, beat them well, the whites of nine whip'd to a froth, and beat them well together; put to them two pound and two ounces of sifted sugar, and have ready half a pint of water, with three spoonfuls of rose-water, boiling hot; and as you beat the eggs and sugar, put in the hot water, a little at a time; then set the biscuit over the fire, (it must be beat in a brass or silver pan) keeping it beating, 'till it is so hot that you can't hold your finger in it; then take it off, and beat it 'till 'tis almost cold; then put in a pound and half of flower well dry'd, and the rind of two lemmons grated. bake it in little long pans butter'd, and in a quick oven: sift sugar over them before you put them in the oven. _to make round biscuit with coriander seeds._ take nine eggs, and but four of the whites, beat them very well, put to them eight spoonfuls of rose-water, and eight of orange-flower-water; beat the eggs and water a quarter of an hour; then put in a pound of sifted sugar, three quarter of a pound of fine flower well dry'd, beat this altogether an hour and half; then put in two ounces of coriander-seeds a little bruis'd: when the oven is ready, put them in little round tin-pans butter'd, and sift sugar over them. a cool oven will bake them. _to make hartshorn-jelly._ take half a pound of hartshorn, boil it in a pipkin, with six quarts of spring-water, 'till consum'd to three pints; let it stand all night; then put to it half a pound of fine sugar, some cinamon, mace, and a clove or two, and let it boil again; then put in the whites of eight eggs well beaten, letting it boil up again; then put in the juice of four or five lemmons, and half a pint of _rhenish_ wine; let it just boil up, and then run it thro' a jelly-bag 'till it is clear. _to make lemmon-jelly._ take four lemmons, rasp the rinds into a pint and half of spring-water, let it lye an hour; and then put to it the whites of five eggs well beaten, half a pound of sugar, and the juice of four lemmons; when the sugar is melted, strain it thro' a thin sieve or strainer; then take a little powder of turmerick, ty'd up in a piece of muslin, and lay it in a spoonful of water 'till it is wet; then squeeze a little into the jelly, to make it lemmon-colour, but not too yellow: set it over the fire, skim it, and when you see it jelly, put it in glasses; if it boil, it will not be amiss. _to make butter'd orange._ rasp the peel of two oranges into half a pint of water; put to it half a pint of orange-juice, and six eggs, (but two of the whites) and as much sugar as will sweeten it; strain it, set it on the fire, and when it is thick, put in a piece of butter as big as a nut, keeping it stirring 'till it is cold. _to make eringo-cream._ take a quartern of eringo's, cut them small, and boil them in half a pint of milk, 'till they are tender; then put to them a pint of cream and two eggs, well beaten; set it on the fire, and let it just boil; if you don't think it sweet enough, put in a little sugar. _to make barley-cream._ take two ounces of pearl-barley, boil it in four or five waters 'till it is very tender; then rub it thro' an hair sieve, and put it to a pint of cream, with an egg well beaten; sweeten it, and let it boil: if you please, you may leave some of the barley whole in it. _to make ratafea-cream._ take kernels of apricocks, beat them very fine, and to two ounces put a pint of cream and two eggs; sweeten it, set it on the fire, and let it boil 'till 'tis pretty thick: you may slice some of the kernels thin, and put them in, besides what is beaten. _to make almond-butter._ take half a pound of almonds finely beaten, mix them in a quart of cream; strain the cream, and get out as much of the almonds as you can thro' the strainer; set it on the fire, and when it is ready to boil, put in twelve eggs (but three of the whites) well beaten; stir it on the fire 'till it turns to a curd; then put in half a pint of cold milk, stir it well, and whey it in a strainer: when 'tis cold sweeten it. _to make a trifle._ take a pint of cream, and boil it, and when it is almost cold, sweeten it, and put it in the bason you use it in; and put to it a spoonful of runnet; let it stand 'till it comes like cheese: you may perfume it, or put in orange-flower-water. _to make all sorts of fruit-cream._ take your fruit, (scalded) or sweet-meats, and rub it thro' an hair sieve, and boil your cream; and when 'tis cold, put in your fruit, 'till 'tis pretty thick. _to make sack-posset, or sack-cream._ take twelve eggs, (the whites of but six) beat them, and put to them a pint of sack and half a pound of sugar; set them on a fire, keeping them stirring 'till they turn white, and just begin to thicken; at the same time on another fire have a quart of cream, boil and pour it into the eggs and sack, give it a stir round, and cover it a quarter of an hour before you eat it: the eggs and sack must be heated in the bason you use it in, and the cream must boil before you set on the eggs. _to make blamange._ take two ounces of ising-glass, steep it all night in rose-water; then take it out of the water and put to it a quart of milk, and about six laurel leaves, breaking the leaves into two or three pieces; boil this 'till all the ising-glass is dissolv'd, and the milk diminish'd to less than a pint; then put to it a quart of cream, letting it boil about half an hour; then strain it thro' a thin strainer, leaving as little of the ising-glass in the strainer as you can; sweeten it, and, if you like it, put in a little orange-flower-water; put it in a broad earthen pan, or _china_ dish; the next day, when you use it, cut it with a jagging-iron in long slips, and lay it in knots on the dish or plate you serve it up in. lemmon-cream made with cream. take a pint of cream, the yolks of two eggs, and about a quarter of a pound of sugar, boil'd with the rind of a lemmon cut very thin; when it is almost cold, take out the rind, and put in the juice of a large lemmon, by degrees, or it will turn, keeping it stirring 'till it is quite cold. _to make citron-cream._ take half a pound of green citron, cut it as thin as possible, and in small long pieces, but no longer than half an inch: put it in a pint of cream, with a piece of the rind of a lemmon, and boil it a quarter of an hour; then sweeten it, put in an egg well beaten, and set it on the fire again, 'till it grows thick; then put in the juice of half a lemmon, and stir it 'till 'tis cold. _to make pistato-cream._ take half a pound of pistato-nuts, break them, and blanch the kernels, and beat all (except a dozen, that you must keep to slice, to lay on the top of the cream) with a little milk; then put them into a pint of cream, with the yolks of two eggs, and sweeten it with fine sugar: to this quantity put a spoonful of the juice of spinage, stamp'd and strain'd; set it all over the fire, and let it just boil; and when you send it up, put the slic'd kernels on the top. if you like it thick, you may put in the white of one egg. _to make clouted-cream._ take four gallons of milk, let it just boil up; then put in two quarts of cream, and when it begins to boil again, put it in two large pans or trays, letting it stand three days; then take it from the milk with a skimmer skimmer full of holes, and lay it in the dish you send it up in: lay it high in the middle, and a large handsome piece on the top, to cover all the rest. _to make a very thick, raw cream._ take two trays, keep them boiling hot; and, when you bring your milk, put it in the scalding-hot tray, and cover it with the other hot tray; and the next day you will find a very thick cream. this must be done the night before you use it. _to make spanish-butter._ take two gallons of milk, boil it, and, whilst boiling, put in a quart of cream; let it boil after the cream is in; set it in two broad pans or trays, and let it stand two or three days; then take the cream from the milk into a silver pan or wooden bowl; put to it a spoonful of orange-flower-water, with a perfum'd pastel or two melted in it; and sweeten it a little with sifted sugar: then beat it with a silver ladle or a wooden beater, 'till it is stiff enough to lye as high as you wou'd have it: be sure to beat it all one way, and not change your hand. _to make orange-butter._ take the rind of two or three oranges, and boil them very tender; then beat them very fine in a mortar, and rub them thro' an hair sieve; then take a quart of cream, boil it, and put in the yolks of ten eggs, and the whites of two; beat the eggs very well before you put them to the boiling cream; stir it all one way, 'till it is a curd; then whey it in a strainer; when it is cold, mix in as much of the orange as you think will make it taste as you wou'd have it; then sweeten it as you like it. _to make almond-butter._ take a pint of milk, and about twelve large laurel leaves, break the leaves in three or four pieces; boil them in the milk 'till it is half wasted; then put in a quart of cream, boil it with the leaves and milk; then strain it, and set it on the fire again; when it boils, put in the yolks of twelve eggs, and the whites of three, beating the eggs very well; stir this 'till it is a curd; put in about half a pint of milk, let it have a boil, then whey it in a strainer. when it is cold, sweeten it. this tastes as well as that which has almonds in it. _to make trout-cream._ have three or four long baskets made like a fish; then take a quart of new milk and a pint of cream, sweeten it, and put in a little orange-flower-water; make it as warm as milk from the cow; put in a spoonful of runnet, stir it, and cover it close; and when it comes like a cheese, wet the baskets, and set them hollow; lay the cheese into them without breaking the curd; as it wheys and sinks, fill them up 'till all is in. when you send it up, turn the baskets on the plates, and give it a knock with your hand, they will come out like a fish: whip cream and lay about them. they will look well in any little basket that is shallow, if you have no long ones. _to make almond-cream._ take a quarter of a pound of almonds, blanch and beat them very fine, put them to a pint of cream, boil the almonds and cream, then sweeten it, and put it in the whites of two eggs well-beaten; set it on the fire till it just boils and grow thick. _to make raw-almond, or ratafea-cream._ take a quarter of a pound of bitter or sweet almonds, which you like best, blanch and beat them very fine, mix them with a quart of cream and the juice of three or four lemmons; sweeten it as you like it, and whip it in a tray with a whisk; as the froth rises, put it in a hair sieve to grow stiff; then fill your bason or glasses. _to make chocolate-cream._ take a quarter of a pound of chocolate, breaking it into a quarter of a pint of boiling water; mill it and boil it, 'till all the chocolate is dissolv'd; then put to it a pint of cream and two eggs well-beaten; let it boil, milling it all the while; when it is cold, mill it again, that it may go up with a froth. _to make sego-cream._ take two spoonfuls of sego, boil it in two waters, straining the water from it; then put to it half a pint of milk, boil it 'till 'tis very tender, and the milk wasted; then put to it a pint of cream, a blade of mace, a little piece of lemmon-peel, and two eggs, (the white of but one) sweeten and boil it 'till it is thick. _to ice cream._ take tin ice-pots, fill them with any sort of cream you like, either plain or sweeten'd, or fruit in it; shut your pots very close; to six pots you must allow eighteen or twenty pound of ice, breaking the ice very small; there will be some great pieces, which lay at the bottom and top: you must have a pail, and lay some straw at the bottom; then lay in your ice, and put in amongst it a pound of bay-salt; set in your pots of cream, and lay ice and salt between every pot, that they may not touch; but the ice must lie round them on every side; lay a good deal of ice on the top, cover the pail with straw, set it in a cellar where no sun or light comes, it will be froze in four hours, but it may stand longer; than take it out just as you use it; hold it in your hand and it will slip out. when you wou'd freeze any sort of fruit, either cherries, rasberries, currants, or strawberries, fill your tin-pots with the fruit, but as hollow as you can; put to them lemmonade, made with spring-water and lemmon-juice sweeten'd; put enough in the pots to make the fruit hang together, and put them in ice as you do cream. _to make hartshorn-flummery._ take half a pound of hartshorn, boil it in four quarts of water till it comes to one, or less; let it stand all night; then beat and blanch a quarter of a pound of almonds, melt the jelly, mix the almonds with it, and strain it thro' a thin strainer or hair sieve; then put in a quarter of a pint of cream, a little cinamon, and a blade of mace, boil these together, and sweeten it: put it into _china_ cups; when you use it, turn it out of the cups, and eat it with cream. _to make perfum'd pastels._ take a pound of sugar sifted thro' a lawn sieve, two grains of amber-grease, one grain of musk; grind the amber and musk very fine, mix it with the sugar, make it up to a paste with gum-dragon well steep'd in orange-flower-water, and put in a spoonful of ben; beat the paste well in a mortar, then roll it pretty thin, cut the pastels with a small thimble, and print them with a seal; let them lye on papers to dry; when they are dry, put them in a glass that has a cover, or in some close place, where they may not lose their scent. _to burn almonds._ take a pound of _jordan_-almonds, set them before a hot fire, or in an oven, 'till they are very crisp; then take three quarters of a pound of sugar, one ounce of chocolate grated, and a quarter of a pint of water, and boil these almost to a candy; then put in the almonds, and let them be just hot; take them off and stir them, 'till the sugar grows dry, and hangs about the almonds: put them out of the pan on a paper, and put them asunder. _to make lemmon-wafers._ take fine sifted sugar, and put it in spoons, colouring it in every spoon of several colours; wet it with juice of lemmon; this is to paint the wafers. cut little square papers, of very thick but very fine paper, (a sheet will make two dozen) then take a spoonful of sugar, wet it with juice of lemmon, let it be pretty stiff, hold the spoon over the fire 'till it grows thin, and is just scalding hot; then put a tea-spoonful on the paper, rubbing it equally all over the paper very thin; then paint it of what colour you please, first scalding the colours: when you see it grows dry, pin it at two corners of the paper; when they are cold, and you have made all you design to make, put them into a box, and set them a day or two by the fire; then wet the papers, with your fingers dipt into water, on the outside; let them lye a little, and the papers will come off. the colours are made thus: the red with carmine, the blue with smalt, the green with powder, call'd green-earth, and the yellow with saffron steep'd in lemmon-juice. _to candy little green-oranges._ lay the oranges in water three days, shifting them every day; then put them into scalding water, keeping them in a scald, close cover'd, 'till they are green; then boil them 'till they are tender, and put them in water for three days more, shifting the water every day: make a syrup with their weight in sugar, half a pint of water to a pound of sugar; when the syrup is cold put the oranges into it; let them lye two or three days, and then candy them out as other oranges. _to candy cowslips, or any flowers or greens in bunches._ steep gum-arabick in water, wet the flowers with it, and shake them in a cloth, that they may be dry; then dip them in fine sifted sugar, and hang them on a string, ty'd cross a chimney that has a fire in it: they must hang two or three days 'till the flowers are quite dry. _to make caramel._ take _china_ oranges, peel and split them into quarters, but don't break the skin; lay the quarters before a fire, turning them 'till the skin is very dry; then take half a pound of sugar sifted thro' an hair sieve, put it in a brass or silver pan, and set it over a very slow fire, keeping it stirring 'till all is melted, and looks pretty clear; then take it off the fire, and put in your orange-quarters, one at a time; take them out again as fast as you can with a little spoon, and lay them on a dish, that shou'd be butter'd, or they will not come off: the sugar will keep hot enough to do any plate full. you may do roasted chessnuts, or any fruit in the summer, first laying the fruit before a fire, or in a stove, to make the skin tough; for if any wet come out, the sugar will not stick to it: it must be done just when you use it, for it will not keep. _to make a good green._ lay an ounce of gumboodge in water 'till it is all melted, half a quarter of a pint of water is sufficient; then take an ounce and half of stone-blue dissolv'd in a little water, put it to the gumboodge when melted; put to it a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, and a quarter of a pint of water more, and let it boil: put a spoonful of this to a pint of any white clear-cakes, it will make them a very good green. _to sugar all sorts of small fruit._ beat the white of an egg, and dip the fruit in it; let it lye on a cloth that it may not wet; then take fine sifted sugar, and rowl the fruit in it 'till 'tis quite cover'd with sugar; lay it on a sieve in a stove, or before a fire, to dry it well; it will keep well a week. _to scald all sorts of fruit._ put the fruit into scalding water, (as much as will almost cover the fruit) set it over a slow fire, keep them in a scald 'till they are tender, turning the fruit where the water does not cover it; when 'tis very tender, lay a paper close to it, and let it stand 'till it is cold: then to a pound of fruit put half a pound of sugar, and let it boil (but not too fast) 'till it looks clear: all fruit must be done whole but pippins, and they are best halv'd or quarter'd, and a little orange-peel boil'd and put in them, with the juice of a lemmon. _finis._ * * * * * * * * * * * * * * errata (noted by transcriber): to make honycomb-cakes of orange-flower-violet of cowslips _the table of contents and the body text have identical wording and punctuation. intended reading may be:_ "orange-flower, violet or cowslips" a quarter of an hour will do them after they begin to boil fast _text has period (full stop) after "them"_ to preserve apricocks. _text reads "apricocrs"_ to a pound of quinces put in a pound and a half of sugar _parts of this line almost unreadable, some "a"s invisible_ whole oranges or lemmons are done the same way _text reads "the fame way"_ the spirit of wormwood _capital "s" (first letter on page) printed upside-down_ take thirty eggs, (the whites of fourteen (break twenty eight of them; _punctuation unchanged: possibly error for:_ take thirty eggs, the whites of fourteen (break twenty eight of them); _the passage appears to mean "separate twenty-eight of the thirty eggs, using fourteen of the whites and all the yolks." the two whole eggs are used later in the recipe._ set it on the fire till it just boils and grow thick _text reads "set in on"_ this is to paint the wafers _text reads "waters"_ frye's practical candy maker comprising practical receipts for the manufacture of fine "hand-made" candies, especially adapted for fine retail trade. by g. v. frye, practical candy maker, chicago, ill. entered according to act of congress in the year 1884, by g. v. frye, in the office of the librarian of congress, at washington. rights of translation reserved. copy-right secured. i authorize any lawyer, or other person, in the united states, to notify me should any one attempt to reprint the foregoing receipts. i will pay them, and all infringments will be prosecuted to the full extent of the law. g. v. frye press of e. j. decker, chicago. preface. it is not my intention in presenting this volume to the trade to write a long, dry dissertation on confectionery, but to give plain practical receipts for the manufacture of fine hand-made counter goods, and as i make no pretensions to literary merit, i hope to disarm criticism. the work is the fruit of years of personal experience in the manufacture of fine candies, and though containing much, it does not pretend to teach all that a candy-maker should know; that must be learned by years of practice. although not perfect, confectioners will find this little volume a useful one, if not invaluable. its utility even to those who are skilled in the art of candy making appears to the writer to be great. but it is more especially designed for confectioners whose business does not justify their securing the services of skilled workmen. many confectioners would be glad to exhibit to their customers a fine display of choice hand-made candies, knowing that by so doing they would soon increase their trade, but the wages of a good workman, in this line, are high, and he can not afford to keep one. the prices asked for the goods, by those that will wholesale them, make them too expensive to be practical, and at the same time the goods do not ship in good order, even if he had a favorable opportunity of buying them, so he is obliged to handle a line of cheap goods, which seldom give any satisfaction, or at least, do not create a desire for candies from his place; hence, his trade, or what should be his trade, is swallowed up by those whose goods are fresh and tempting. to such, the importance of this little volume, ready at call, to assist the confectioner in making a fine line of counter goods, is too plain to require discussion. in conclusion, i earnestly hope these practical receipts will be an acceptable offering to a very large number of confectioners, whose prosperity i would promote. to them it is commended with the respects of the author. g. v. frye. contents. sugar. page how to select, 9 facts for the workman, 9-10 degrees of boiling, either with thermometer, saccharometer, or water cook, 11-13 colors. kinds to use, and how to make, 14-16 stick candy. peppermint, 17 lemon, 19 wintergreen, 19 cinnamon, 19 sassafras, 19 cloves, 19 fruit rock. strawberry, 20-21 lemon slices, 22 checkerboard, 22-23 lettered candy, 23 cough, and other drops. lemon, or sour, 24 mint, "new" and "old style," 24-25 malt, 25 lime juice, 25 wild cherry, 26 hoarhound, 26 boneset, 27 iceland moss, 27 flaxseed, 27 eng. barley sugar, 27 tar, 28 fruit, in five flavors, 28-29 taffies. vanilla, 30 pine apple, 30 lemon, 31 chocolate, 31 cocoanut, 31 molasses, "old" and "new style," 31-32 taffies, (extra fine). hickory nut, 33 walnut, 33 cocoanut, 33 brazil, 34 bar candies. brown almond, 35 blanched almond, 35 peanut, 36 sliced cocoanut, 36 brazil, 36 english walnut, 36 fruit, 36 molasses sliced cocoanut, 37 black walnut, 37-38 caramels. vanilla, no. 1, 39 " no. 2, 40 maple, 40 strawberry, 40 cocoanut, 40 honey, 41 pulled, 41 chocolate, plain, 41 chocolate, cream, 42 vanilla, opera, 42 maple, opera, 43 chocolate, " 43 nut, 43 butter cups. butter, 44 hickory nut, 44-45 nectar, 46 walnut, 46 cocoanut, 46 chocolate, 46 lemon, or sour, 47 fruit, 47 cocoanut goods. cocoanut bar, white, 48 " " red, 48 " " yellow, 48 vanilla cocoanut paste, 49 strawberry " " 49 maple " " 49 chocolate " " 49 white cocoanut cakes, 49 molasses " " 50 cocoanut potatoes, 50 " biscuits, 51 " jap, 51 molasses cocoanut jap, 52 spanish cocoanut kisses, 52 almond goods. almond paste, 53 " gems, 53 cream almonds, 54 burnt " 55 salted " 56 almond nougat, 56-57 miscellaneous goods. fruit cake, 58 nut " 58 cream peppermints, 58 " wintergreens, 59 small mint drops, 59 molasses mint drops, 59 mint cakes, 60 " kisses, 60 lemon cakes, 60 boston chips, 60 flake candies, 61 strings of comfort, 61 pan creams, 62 butter scotch, 62 maple cream for counter, 62 cream bars, or baby cream, 63 fig bar, 64 fig paste, 64 jelly gum drops, lemon, 65 " " rose, 65 a. b. gum drops, "old style," 65 cordial drops, 66 marshmallow drops, 66 glace nuts and fruits, 67-68 cream goods. cream, or fondant, 69 fondant for dipping, 69 how to flavor and color cream, 70 syrup for crystallizing, 70 casting in starch, 71 maple fondant, 72 dipped bonbons, 72 cordials dipped, 73 dipped maple bonbons, 73 chocolate bonbons, 74 conserve " 74 dipped jelly gums, 75 cocoanut marshmallow bonbons, 75 fruit icings, 76 almond icings, 76 hickory nut icings, 77 fruit nougat, 77 cream walnuts, 78 " dates, 78 " cherries and raisins, 79 cream bonbons, 79 jelly cream bonbons, 79 conserve bonbons, 80 " icings, 80 log icings, 81 acorn bonbons, 82 fig creams, 82 jelly rolls, 83 almond confits, 83 crab apples, 83 pine apple creams, 84 chocolate work. how to make chocolate cream drops, 85 to make sweet chocolate from plain, 86 pralines or fancy chocolates, 87 varnish for chocolate work, 88 apple jelly, 88 apricot " 89 preserving fruits, 89 glazed fruits, 90 brandied cherries, 90 syrups for the soda water fountain. simple syrup, 91 vanilla, 92 chocolate, 92 coffee, 93 lemon, 93 orange, 94 strawberry, 94 raspberry, 94 blackberry, 94 pine apple, 94 cherry, 94 peach and apricot, 94 nectar, 95 catawba, 95 orgeat, or almond, 95 ginger, 96 cream, 96 sherbert, 96 sarsaparilla, 96 cayenne, 96 cinnamon, 96 maple, 96 sugar. in selecting sugar the confectioner must bear in mind that it is the foundation of all confectionery, and he can not expect to manufacture first-class goods except from first-class material; hence, select only sugar that is perfectly dry and of uniform quality, and in white, hard, sparkling crystals; only such sugar will give satisfaction. in addition to selecting sugar, particular attention must be paid to the changes that sugar undergoes in passing from one degree to another while cooking, and also its action when united with such ingredients as cream of tartar, glucose, molasses, nuts, fruits, etc. this must be done if one expects to be a proficient workman in the art of making fine candies. facts for the workman. to have the following receipts produce the results desired certain conditions are imposed on the workman. in the first place, the best of confectioner's sugar must be used. second, one quart of water to each six pounds of sugar, unless more than eighteen pounds is used, in which case, add only one pint of water to each additional six pounds. third, the amount of cream of tartar or glucose mentioned in each receipt. fourth, that all goods are to be cooked over a rapid fire unless otherwise ordered. to show the importance of this i will illustrate: in several places i have said "cook the sugar until it begins to turn yellow or about 330° by the thermometer." now, if the best sugar, right amount of cream of tartar and water, and the batch is boiled over a rapid fire, it will not vary but a degree or so from turning at 330°, but if a lower grade of sugar is used, more cream of tartar, more water, and the batch is boiled over a slow fire, the sugar will turn probably before the batch reaches 300°, and the goods when made would soon become sticky and unfit for the counter. there are often times when a poorer grade of sugar must be worked and there is no reason why poor goods should be made from it, but good judgment is necessary. if the sugar is damp, use only water enough to dissolve it, use less cream of tartar and cook over a very rapid fire; yet, such sugar can not be used for first-class goods, and should not be used at all unless the best can not be procured. in flavoring candies never use ether flavors, only pure fruit extracts and oils. put all hard sugar goods, as soon as made, into air tight tin boxes, so they are not exposed to the atmosphere until needed for the counter. in coloring the cheaper grades of hard candies, always make decided colors, but in the finer hard goods and cream work make only delicate shades. always dissolve cream of tartar in a small quantity of water before adding it to the batch. degrees of boiling sugar. thread. the first degree found in boiling sugar is called the thread. the manner of ascertaining this is: having placed the batch on the furnace, which for example we will call six pounds of sugar and one quart of water, stir with a wooden spatula or skimming ladle until dissolved, having boiled a short time, raise the skimmer from the batch, pass the fore finger of the left hand across it, retaining on the end of the finger some of the syrup; now place the end of the finger on the thumb, and separate them, if a thread is formed between them, which breaks and settles on the thumb, the degree is reached. by the thermometer this degree is 220, by saccharometer 33°. pearl. the next degree is the pearl, and is indicated by trying as before, and if able to separate finger and thumb to fullest extent, the degree is reached. the thermometer will show at this degree, 226°, saccharometer, 37°. blow. continue the boiling, and raising the skimmer, blow through it, if small air bubbles appear on opposite side, the blow is reached, and the thermometer will show 230°, saccharometer, 40°. feather. proceed with the boiling a few minutes, raise the skimmer and blow through it as before, if a greater number of air bubbles appear the degree is reached. the thermometer will indicate 236°, saccharometer, 42°. soft ball. the next degree is the soft ball, and is determined in the following manner: place a measure of cold water near the furnace, and after inserting the right hand in the water reach in the batch with two fore fingers and bring out a small portion of syrup, immediately putting your hand back in the water, and if you can work the syrup into a soft ball in the water it has reached that degree. the thermometer showing 240°, saccharometer, 44°. hard ball. in a short time try as before, and if you can form the syrup into a hard ball that will stick to the teeth, when bitten, the degree is reached. the thermometer showing 248°, the saccharometer after this degree ceases to indicate correctly. soft crack. the next degree reached, after continuing the boiling for a short time, is the soft crack. try in the water, as before, and if the syrup cracks when pressed by the finger and thumb, but on holding a moment, forms into a hard ball again, it is the degree sought. the thermometer shows this degree to be 252°. crack. test as before, and if the syrup cracks easily and will not form a ball, it has reached the crack. the thermometer marks this degree 260. hard crack. the next degree we use, is when after being tested as before, it cracks like egg shells, and will eat up readily. the thermometer shows at this degree 290°. the degrees higher than the hard crack or 290° are used only for such goods as machine drops, stick candies, etc., and will be explained as we proceed. colors. in choosing colors for candy, certain qualifications are necessary. first, they must not fade or change when exposed to the light. second, they must not be easily affected by acids or alkalies; hence, it has been difficult to produce colors that are reasonably permanent and at the same time harmless. yet the following will be found as near perfect as any yet produced. red, cochineal color. put on the fire, in a copper basin, two quarts of water; when it comes to a boil, add one fourth of a pound powdered alum; then the same amount of powdered cochineal; next, the same quantity of salts of tartar; let it boil a minute, stirring all the time, then set off the fire, and stir in six ounces cream of tartar; place again on the fire, and boil about five minutes; then strain through a fine sieve; when cool enough, put into a glass jar. do not cover it, as it keeps much better when open to the air. carmine. take a three or four ounce bottle, fill half full of best no. 40 carmine, and add ammonia sufficient to fill the bottle; shake well, and it is ready for use. yellow, saffron color. put into a basin one pint of water, add to it two ounces of spanish saffron, twelve ounces of sugar, and one ounce of powdered alum, boil these together for eight or ten minutes, then strain through a damp flannel bag; when cold add to it one gill of spirits of wine, and bottle for use. another yellow. this is made in the same way as the above, except use fustic, instead of saffron, and one quart of water; it comes cheaper, but when used with powdered sugar often turns brown, as much of the powdered sugar contains traces of iron, being ground in iron mills; but used with other goods it produces a bright yellow. orange. this is made by adding red color to the yellow, and is done, as you need it, by simply coloring, whatever you want orange, a bright yellow, then add to it a few drops of red. green. take one peck of fresh spinach, rub it to a pulp in a mortar, squeeze from it all juice possible, and put it in a basin on the fire, and it will soon curdle, as milk does when sour; immediately set off and strain through a fine sieve; take the curd and add to it its bulk in powdered sugar, a few drops of spirits of wine, and what powdered alum you can hold on the point of a pen knife; bottle for use. another nice green can be made by adding to the second formula given for making yellow, a sufficient quantity of indigo to make it the shade desired. blue. powder one-half ounce of indigo, add to it enough simple syrup to make it the consistency of cream, and one-half ounce spirits of wine. burnt sugar color. take any quantity of scrap, dissolve and strain them, set on the fire and cook until it begins to burn; now deaden the fire a little and let burn slowly until very black, and the syrup, when raising the spatula, does not run off freely; then add, very slowly, two gallons of boiling water to each ten pounds of syrup, cooked by means of a long handled dipper, pouring a stream no larger than a straw at first, when all is added; let boil a few moments, then put into a crock for use. stick candies. as this line of goods are sold so cheap, the manufacturer of it is almost entirely confined to the wholesale factory, the retailer preferring to buy rather than to make it; yet, for those who may wish to make their own, below will be found a formula which will make first-class goods, but it must be remembered that considerable practice and good taste is necessary to make nice stick candy. peppermint stick. twelve pounds of sugar, two quarts of water, stir until dissolved, then add one full teaspoon of cream of tartar, (or if you wish to use glucose, add three pounds of same, do this when you are weighing your sugar, by hollowing out a place in the center of the sugar and pouring in the glucose). now put on the steamer and let it remain until the batch begins to cook, then remove; in this way all the grains of sugar adhereing to the sides of the basin are washed down; however, if any should remain they must be removed with a damp sponge or cloth, as otherwise they might grain your batch. now cook till the sugar just begins to turn yellow, then remove at once and pour out on a greased slab, or if boiling by a thermometer, remove batch at about 330°. now throw in the edges of the batch and fold all together, take about two pounds of the batch while it is still hot, and add to it red color, and work it in with your hands or a batch knife, then place it on the spinning table before the heater, to keep it warm. now place the batch on the hook, and flavor with peppermint oil, and pull perfectly white, then form it into a roll; take about one-half of the red piece and pull it into a wide strip just long enough to reach lengthwise across the batch, then spin out the remainder of the red into six small strips, and place them in same manner on batch, about one inch apart; then taking hold of one end of the batch with right hand, hold it up, letting it form itself into the shape of a wine bottle; now roll it before the heater until it is warm enough to spin out nicely, and while one person keeps the batch in shape, let another spin it out, rolling it as he does so; when of the length desired break it off by suddenly striking it with the edge of the hand, or cutting with the shears, and have a third party roll until cold, then cut the sticks in lengths wanted, by means of the candy shears. lemon stick. prepare and cook same as peppermint; leave the batch clear, and flavor with lemon oil on the slab before throwing it together; then takeing about, or a little more than half the quantity that you colored red for mint, pull white on the hook; form this into strips on the batch, as you did in mint, then spin out somewhat smaller, as the candy being clear will weigh heavier. wintergreen stick. same as before, except when it begins to boil, color red in the basin; when poured out on the slab and cooled enough to pull, reserve about one pound of the clear red for the stripes; then having pulled the remainder a nice pink shade, form the clear red piece into three stripes, of even size, and place them on the batch about three inches apart, and proceed as before. cinnamon stick. same as peppermint, except put three red stripes, as in wintergreen. sassafras stick. pulled white, with two red and one yellow stripe, the yellow being between the red. clove stick. clear, with three white stripes of even size. fruit rock. these goods require a great deal of practice, and a new beginner will waste considerable sugar before he can accomplish it in first-class style. i shall explain a few kinds, and by the time you can make these nicely you will be able to make any design you may wish. strawberry rock. boil any amount of sugar, treat in the same manner as for stick candy; when done pour out almost two-thirds of batch on the slab, and color the rest red in the basin, and place again on the furnace, stirring the color into the batch, then pour out. now take a small piece of the first poured out, say three-fourths of a pound, and color green and place it before the heater. now pull the remaining perfectly white; take about one pound of this and form into a roll, about four or five inches in length, then wrap around this about one-third of your red batch. now spin this out about five feet in length, and cut it into fifteen pieces about four inches in length. now put five of these together, then four on top of these, then three, then two and one, forming a triangle. now form your green into a very thin, wide strip about twelve inches in length; cut in three equal pieces, lay two of these flat on the table and stand the third one in the middle. now place a block of white on either side of the perpendicular piece, forming a square of the whole; place this on the base of the triangle already formed. now wrap all the white remaining around the whole, then forming the red into a thin sheet wrap around the white and spin out as stick candy, when cold cut into small cuts, by holding a stick in the left hand, letting it rest on an iron bar and cutting with a knife in the right. lemon slices. having cooked your batch same as last, pour all out on the slab and color one-fourth yellow; pull another one-fourth white, take of the white just pulled one-half pound and roll all the clear around it in such a way as the white will be in the center, then cut this into two pieces, one being somewhat larger than the other; take the larger one, spin it out into a strip about three feet in length, and cut into six sticks of even length; place two of these together and third one on top, forming a triangle; do the same with the other three, cut a small piece from the pulled piece left and form it into two thin sheets and cover two sides of the two triangles; pull out the remaining clear piece same as the other and form two more triangles; then place the two triangles covered white opposite each other, then the two other ones opposite, the sharp edges of all meeting in the center. now wrap the white remaining around this, then the yellow, and spin out as before. checkerboard. having poured the batch on the slab, color one-third of it chocolate; this is done by kneeding into the batch about one and one-half ounces of melted chocolate to each pound. now leave another one-third of the batch clear and pull the remaining third, reserving from it before pulling, one and one-half pounds; form the clear into a square, also the chocolate and place both together, then pull it out eight feet in length, keeping the strips square. now cut into sixteen pieces of six inches each and build into a square block, the chocolate on the clear, the clear on the chocolate, then wrap the white around it and spin out the small clear piece into very small strips and place them on the batch about one inch apart, proceed to spin out as before. lettered candy. this is made in the same manner as the fruit rock, and simply requires good taste and practice. drops. lemon or sour drops. cook your batch the same as for lemon stick, about twelve pounds, pour it out on the slab, fill an ordinary glass half full of tartaric acid, add a little water, and work it into a paste; scatter this over the batch, also a few drops of lemon oil. now throw the batch together, and with the batch knife work the acid through the batch; when cold enough run through the drop machine, any design desired; remember the acid and flavor must be worked in while the batch is still hot. the old way of using the acid, dry, does not make as nice drop as the paste. mint drops. take twelve pounds of sugar, treat it in the same manner as you would for mint stick. color about two pounds red, for the stripes, pull the rest white, form it into a roll and place fine red stripes around the batch, about one inch apart; spin out as stick candy, but do not roll it, as the stripes should remain straight; run through a sour drop cutter. "old style" mint drops. cook any number of pounds of clear scraps, as high as possible without burning; use no cream of tartar or glucose; pour on the slab and flavor with mint oil before throwing together, pull a small piece of the batch as white as possible, and form it into stripes about one inch apart, around the batch, and run through a drop machine. malt drops. twelve pounds of sugar, small spoon of cream tartar or two pounds of glucose, and cook until sugar begins to turn, or about 330° by the thermometer, if using cream of tartar; if glucose, the sugar will turn sooner. now add about one pint extract of malt, slowly; this should be warm before adding, stir until batch is ready to pour on the slab, which will require a few moments, as the malt reduces the batch; be very careful and not let it scorch or burn, as that will destroy the fine flavor of the malt; run through a drop machine, any design wished. lime juice drops. twelve pounds of sugar, small spoon of cream of tartar, or three pounds of glucose; cook until sugar is just on the point of turning yellow, keeping the sides of the basin well washed down; pour out at once on oiled or greased slab, add to batch about one-half as much tartaric acid as for lemon drops; form the acid into a paste by adding to it a few drops of lime juice, work it into the batch, in the same way as for lemon, together with half a teaspoon green color, and a few drops of oil of lime; then run through a drop machine, forming a thin round, or square drop. wild cherry drops. twelve pounds of sugar, small spoon of cream of tartar, or three pounds of glucose; when it boils add a few drops of red color, just enough to tint the batch, then cook to a very hard crack, or 300° or 310°. set off and stir in a tablespoon of extract of wild cherry and pour out on a greased slab between iron bars. make the batch cover a space at least three feet square; as soon as it cools a little, run over it with a caramel marker, both ways; this must be done quickly or the batch will get too cold to mark. hoarhound drops. boil in three quarts of water for five or ten minutes about five ounces of hoarhound, then strain through a fine sieve. take this liquor and add to it twelve pounds of sugar and a small spoon of cream of tartar, or two pounds of glucose, and cook to a hard crack, or 290° or 300°. then pour out and run through a machine, or mark with a caramel marker, as wild cherry. all or part clear scraps can be used instead of sugar, in which case use no cream of tartar or glucose. boneset drops. same as hoarhound, except make a liquor of boneset instead of hoarhound. iceland moss drops. boil five ounces of iceland moss in three quarts of water for ten minutes; strain and add to liquor twelve pounds of sugar, small spoon cream of tartar, or two pounds glucose; when it comes to a boil color a deep red; cook to same degree as hoarhound, flavor with a few drops oil anise and pour on slab between iron bars and mark with caramel marker. flax seed drops. six pounds of sugar, one quart of water, small spoon of cream of tartar, or one or two pounds of glucose; cook to a hard crack, then stir in three ounces of whole or powdered flax-seeds and let cook a few moments; pour out and either mark into squares with caramel marker, or run through a drop machine. english barley sugar drops. six pounds of sugar, small spoon cream of tartar, or one pound of glucose; cook to a hard crack, or 290°. stir in four ounces butter and a few drops of lemon oil, then pour out and mark as iceland moss, etc. tar drops. six pounds of sugar, small spoon of cream of tartar, or two pounds of glucose; cook to a hard crack, or 290°. pour out on a well greased slab and add about a small spoon of pine tar; then with a batch knife work it through the batch, and run through a drop machine. fruit drops, five flavors. twenty pounds of sugar, three quarts of water, a heaping teaspoon of cream of tartar, or sixteen pounds of sugar and four pounds of glucose; cook till the sugar begins to turn yellow, then pour out at once; to one fourth of the batch add two or three drops of red color, just enough to make it a bright pink, then two full teaspoons of tartaric acid paste, and a few drops of nectar; to another fourth of the batch add sufficient red color to make it a deep red, the same quantity of acid paste, and a few drops of strawberry flavor; to the remaining half of the batch add as much acid as was given to the other two and a few drops of lemon oil; run these through a drop machine, forming round drops. now cook ten pounds of sugar in the same manner, color one-half of it orange shade and flavor, add acid paste as before, the other half color green, and flavor lime juice; run through the same set of rolls. taffies. vanilla taffy. six pounds of sugar, small spoon of cream of tartar or two pounds of glucose; cook just to the crack, or 252°, add to it while cooking one vanilla bean, split in two; when poured on the slab remove the bean, and when cold enough, pull perfectly white; remove from the hook and pull into long strips, then cut into pieces three or four inches in length, and wrap in wax paper. if brittle taffy is wanted, cook this same batch to the hard crack, or 290°; form it into a large cake, which may be broken with a hammer as sold. if flavoring with the extract instead of the bean, do so while pulling on the hook. pine apple taffy. cook same as vanilla, except add no flavor in basin, and let the batch reach the hard crack degree, then pour out two-thirds of the batch; color the rest in the basin a bright red, pull the first poured out, white, and flavor pine apple; form it into a cake, and having spread the red pieces out into a sheet, cover it over the white. lemon taffy. same as vanilla; color yellow in the basin before pouring out, then flavor lemon on the hook. chocolate taffy. same as vanilla; when on the slab add to the batch six ounces melted chocolate, work it into the batch with a batch knife. cocoanut taffy. six pounds of sugar, small spoon of cream of tartar, or three pounds of glucose; cook to the hard crack, then add three grated cocoanuts; stir until the batch reaches the soft crack; pour out at once; when sufficiently cold, pull white on the hook, and run out into strips; cut into pieces, any length desired, and wrap in wax paper. "old style" molasses. five pounds of sugar and one gallon of n. o. molasses; put on the fire and cook to a hard ball, then add two pounds of sweet butter, and continue the cooking until the batch just reaches the soft crack, or 252°, if in winter; if in summer, cook to the crack, or 260°; pour out on a greased slab, and pull to a bright golden color; form into strips, and cut into bars four or five inches in length; wrap in wax paper. another molasses taffy. three pounds of sugar, three pounds of glucose, and one quart of molasses; cook to the soft crack; set off and stir into the batch one teaspoon of saleratus; pour on a slab, and when nearly cold pull and flavor on the hook, either with a few drops of lemon oil, bitter almond oil, or extract of mace; run out into bars as before. taffies, (extra fine). hickory-nut taffy. six pounds of sugar, and just enough molasses to color; a small spoon of cream of tartar, or four pounds of sugar and two of glucose; cook to the hard crack; pour out on a greased slab, and before throwing together, scatter over it about two pounds of chopped up hickory-nuts; work the nuts into the batch, then run it through a flake machine, about two inches wide, and mark with a caramel marker into sticks. these are very nice goods for fancy boxes. walnut taffy. same as hickory nut, with the exception of the nuts. cocoanut taffy. same as others, except add three grated cocoanuts, when batch has reached the hard crack, and stir until the batch again reaches the same degree; run through the flake machine, as wide as the machine will admit, then mark with a caramel marker, diagonally, two ways, forming diamonds. these are very handsome. brazil-nut taffy. same as walnut or hickory-nut; but use no molasses, and when done, set off and stir in one teaspoon saleratus; mark into sticks. bar candies. brown almond bar. ten pounds of sugar, large spoon of cream of tartar, and when it begins to boil, add six pounds of almond nuts, after having picked out all shells and dusted the nuts thoroughly; stir slowly, keeping the sides of the basin well washed, until nuts are as brown as wished, and slide off the spatula easily when raised up; pour out between iron bars, about one inch thick; when cold enough not to run, cut into bars with batch knife and a mallet. brown almond bar, (with glucose). six pounds of sugar, four pounds of glucose; cook to the hard crack, then add six pounds of almond nuts; stir until the nuts cease cracking, and it is done; pour out as before. blanched almond bar. same as brown almond, except blanch the almonds; this should be done sometime before making the bar, so the nuts will be dry. pea-nut bar. same as almond bar, except use ten pounds of pea-nuts. sliced cocoanut. ten pounds of sugar, large spoon of cream of tartar; cook to a hard crack, or 290°, then add slowly, five sliced cocoanuts; (after paring the cocoanuts, cut them into halves, then slice them with a spoke shave); stir carefully, till nuts are as brown as desired, then pour out between iron bars, same as other nut bars. if cooking with glucose, use same quantity as for almond bar. brazil bar. ten pounds of sugar, ordinary spoon of cream of tartar, or six pounds of sugar and four pounds of glucose; cook to a hard crack, or 290°, then pour out one-half of the batch between iron bars, and scatter over this five or six pounds of brazil-nuts, after trimming all the dark skin off them so that they are nice and white; now pour over the nuts the remaining syrup, and cut into bars. english walnut bar. same as brazil-nut bar. fruit candy. six pounds of sugar, one quart of water, a heaping spoon of cream of tartar, or two pounds of glucose; cook to a hard crack; then add, carefully, four pounds of fruit, such as cherries, figs, seeded dates, cut up citron, blanched almonds, brazil-nuts, a few slices of cocoanut, or any other nice fruits or nuts; stir slowly, for a few minutes, until the fruits slide off the spatula, freely; then pour out on a greased slab between iron bars, and cut into bars as nut candy. molasses sliced cocoanut. open, pare and slice, with a spoke shave, five fresh cocoanuts; then place on a slow fire, one quart best n. o. molasses, and one-fourth pound sweet butter; when it boils add the cocoanuts; stir all the time over a very slow fire until it reaches the soft crack, in winter, or crack, in summer; pour out on a greased slab, and spread out thin with a palette knife, then cut into such sized bars as wished; wrap in wax paper in summer. black walnut candy. six pounds of sugar, one quart of water, small spoon of cream of tartar, or one pound of glucose, and one-half pint n. o. molasses; cook to a hard crack, then add one-half pound sweet butter, and stir until the batch again reaches the hard crack; set off and stir in one teaspoon saleratus; then pour out on a greased slab, and scatter over the batch two pounds of picked-over walnuts; fold up the batch and kneed the walnuts through it; then, when cold enough, form into a small square; lay before the heater on the spinning table, and while one person keeps it in shape, let another cut it into slices. another way is to cook just to the soft crack, and serve in the same manner as above, but wrap the squares in wax paper. caramels. these caramel receipts are the _best in the world_, and the author questions the ability of any one to produce a caramel that will excell them in any particular. after once making by either one of the following formulas, no other will be used, as they are worth a dozen times the price of this book, to any one wishing to give his trade a fine caramel. vanilla caramels, no. 1. open eight cans of condensed milk, (osprey brand, is the best, manufactured by canfield condensed milk co., baltimore, md.; when this can not be procured, use eagle brand); empty cans into one gallon of sweet cream, and stir until all is of one consistency; reject all small lumps that may be in the milk, as they will settle at the bottom, and burn the batch; now add to the mixture twelve pounds of sugar and six pounds of glucose; put on the fire, and when it begins to boil, split three vanilla beans to the stem, and scrape out the centers; tie the beans together at one end, and add them, with the scrapings, to the batch; cook over a slow fire, to a soft crack, stirring all the time; pour out and remove the beans. in case the extract of vanilla is used, add it just before pouring out on the slab. vanilla caramels, no. 2. twelve pounds of sugar, six quarts of good cream, two vanilla beans, and one pound of sweet butter; cook over a rapid fire to a good crack; put the sugar, two quarts of the cream and the beans on the fire; when it boils, add two quarts more of the cream; when it again reaches a boil, add the remaining two quarts; then, as it again comes to a boil, add two heaping spoons of cream of tartar. maple caramels. use six pounds of a sugar, six pounds of maple sugar, and six pounds of glucose; then proceed as for vanilla, with the exception of the flavor. strawberry caramels. same as vanilla no. 2; color red in the basin, and flavor before pouring out, with the extract of strawberry. cocoanut caramels. same as vanilla; if cooking according to vanilla no. 1, (as i always recommend,) add three grated cocoanuts, when the batch has reached the hard ball. if by vanilla no. 2, add the cocoanuts at first, with the sugar and cream, using a little more cream of tartar than for vanilla. honey caramels. same as vanilla, except use six pounds of sugar, six of honey, and six of glucose. pulled caramels. cook six pounds of sugar and six pounds of glucose with six quarts of cream and one-half pound of sweet butter to a soft crack; pour out on the slab, and when nearly cold, place on the hook and pull as white as possible, then form into a thin sheet on a slab and roll with a rolling-pin until of even thickness; mark and cut as other caramels. chocolate caramels. use seven cans of condensed milk with one gallon of cream; after mixing it, reserve one quart and add to the rest twelve pounds of sugar, six pounds of glucose, and two vanilla beans; cook over a slow fire till about half done; then set off; break up one and a fourth pounds of chocolate; put it into a basin with a little water; put on the fire, and when hot, add the one quart of cream, a little at a time, until the chocolate is dissolved; strain it into the batch; then set on the fire again, and cook to a soft crack. chocolate cream caramels. make a batch same as last, but only one-half the size; pour it out on the slab very thin; prepare about six pounds of cream by working very smooth, then with a rolling-pin roll it into a thin sheet, and spread it over one-half the batch; fold the other half of the batch over this and press it well down; mark with caramel marker, and cut as other caramels. opera caramels--vanilla. ten pounds of sugar and one gallon of cream, one vanilla bean split and scraped as before, one full spoon of cream tartar--add this after the batch has reached the boil; cook just to a soft ball, stirring all the time; pour out on a damp slab, made so by sprinkling on a very little water; when cold, cream it with a cream scraper, and after working it perfectly smooth, form the whole into a sheet about one-half inch thick, between iron bars and on wax paper; run the rolling-pin over it and mark with caramel marker; after it remains on the slab an hour or so, cut into strips, three or four rows wide, and place in pans. opera caramels--maple. same as vanilla, excepting use five pounds of maple sugar and five pounds of a sugar, and a very small spoon cream tartar. opera caramels--chocolate. same as vanilla, except reserve one quart of cream to dissolve one pound of chocolate; strain this into the batch when half done; cook to a soft ball, and cream and shape as before. nut caramels. cook same as vanilla no. 1; add four pounds of nuts, either black walnut, english walnut, hickory-nut or brazil to the batch; when at a hard ball, or when the batch is done, pour out one-half between iron bars; scatter over it the nuts, and cover them with what remains in the basin. butter cups. ten pounds of sugar, two quarts of water; when it boils add one-half pint new orleans molasses and small spoon of cream tartar (or seven pounds of sugar and three of glucose); cook to 310°; then add one pound of sweet butter, and stir until dissolved; pour out on a greased slab; before cooking the above, take about five pounds of vanilla cream, work smooth and place before the heater on the spinning table; keep turning it and working the heat into it until it is quite hot; now put the above on the fire, and when poured out and cool as candy we intend to pull; spread it out into a sheet about one inch thick, twelve or fourteen inches wide, and sixteen in length; place the warm cream, having formed it into a roll, on the center of the batch lengthwise; now fold the covering over the cream making the edges meet; roll before the heater until warm, sufficient to work nicely; then spin out as stick candy, and mark with caramel marker. hickory-nut cups. chop fine one and one-half pounds of hickory-nuts; place them on the spinning table before the heater with four pounds of cream; as the cream gets warm, work the nuts through it; when all are worked in, put on ten pounds of sugar and a small spoon of cream tartar; cook until sugar just begins to turn, or about 330° by the thermometer; then pour out at once; when sufficiently cold, place on the hook and pull until it has a white satin appearance; then remove from the hook and form into shape as for butter cups; place the cream across the center and fold over the batch, making the edges meet; then spin out as before. to make a center that will chew, cook two pounds of sugar and three of glucose to a hard ball; pour on the slab, and work into it one and one-half pounds of chopped-up hickory-nuts. one-fourth of a pound of sweet butter, and one vanilla bean may be added, while cooking, if desired. a very nice center may be made by cooking one gallon best new orleans molasses to a hard ball, over a slow fire; pour out on the slab, and work in chopped-up hickory-nuts, walnuts, or cream nuts. another popular center is made by running through a cocoanut grater a quantity of fresh figs, and then working into them powdered sugar sufficient to form a smooth paste. nectar cups. same as hickory-nut cups, except make a center of almond paste, colored light green; when on the slab, add to the clear batch a few drops of red color, some nectar flavor, and fold all together, pull on the hook to a bright pink, and finish as before. walnut cups. same as hickory-nut cups, with the exception of the nuts. cocoanut cups. prepare a center by cooking two pounds of sugar and three of glucose to a crack, or 260°; add two grated cocoanuts; stir a moment, and pour out on the slab; fold up and keep warm at the heater; put on the fire ten pounds of sugar, small spoon of cream tartar, and cook until sugar begins to turn; then add one-fourth of a pint of new orleans molasses; stir a moment, pour out and finish as before. you may use for center a small batch of japanese cocoanut cooked to a ball. chocolate cups. use for a center five pounds of vanilla cream; cook a covering same as for hickory-nut cups; when on the slab, pour over the batch three-fourths of a pound melted chocolate; fold together and work the chocolate thoroughly through the batch; finish as before. lemon or sour cups. make a center from five pounds of sugar and a heaping spoon of cream tartar, or three pounds of glucose and three of sugar; cook to a hard ball; when on the slab, add one-fourth of a tumbler of paste, made of tartaric acid (same as lemon drops); prepare the covering same as hickory-nut cups; color yellow; pull on the hook; flavor oil lemon and finish as before. fruit cups. three pounds of cream, two pounds of fruits chopped up and mixed through the cream; these fruits should be chopped up sometime before using, so they may dry; prepare a covering as for hickory-nut cups, but do not pull it; this allows the fruit to show through the covering, and looks very handsome. cocoanut goods. cocoanut bar, (white). seven pounds of sugar, one quart of water; when it comes to a boil add six grated cocoanuts, and stir until it reaches a good thread; set it off on a barrel and add a drop or two of blueing; now with the spatula, granulate the batch by working it on the sides of the basin, and stirring the whole batch until it becomes white; then pour out on a sugared slab; by this is meant, having arranged the iron bars to hold the batch; sieve over the inclosed surface pulverized sugar, also over the tops of the bars; then turn the bars over carefully, so the sugared edge will be on the inside of the enclosure. in this space having poured the batch smooth it down with a palette knife, and let remain over night if possible; then cut into bars; use no flavor. cocoanut bar (red). same as white, except color red in the basin before granulating it. cocoanut bar (yellow). same as white, except color yellow in the basin. vanilla cocoanut paste. eight pounds of sugar, two quarts of sweet cream, one small spoon of cream tartar, one vanilla bean, and three grated cocoanuts; cook to a soft ball, stirring all the time; pour out on a damp slab; when cold, cream it and mould in deep pans; let it remain for twelve hours or so, then cut into slices. strawberry cocoanut paste. same as vanilla, except when creamed, color it pink and flavor strawberry. maple cocoanut paste. five pounds of maple sugar, three pounds of a sugar, small spoon cream tartar, and three grated cocoanuts; proceed as for vanilla. chocolate cocoanut paste. dissolve eight ounces of chocolate in one quart of cream; add this to eight pounds of sugar, one quart of cream, one vanilla bean, three grated cocoanuts, and a heaping spoon of cream tartar; cook to a soft ball and finish as before. white cocoanut cakes. cook five pounds of sugar with five cocoanuts, grated in long strips, to a thread; set off the fire, and with the spatula granulate the batch until the body of the sugar becomes cloudy; then place the basin on a barrel near the slab, having previously sugared the slab; take a tablespoon, dip a quantity of the cocoanut from the basin; then by means of a stick, remove it from the spoon, dropping it on the slab; so continue until all is formed into cakes, or a small quantity may be reserved and colored red; then add a portion to each cake, placing it on the tops. molasses cocoanut cakes. to five grated cocoanuts, long cut, add one quart new orleans molasses; cook to a hard ball, over a very slow fire, and proceed as for white cakes, except drop them on a greased slab, and do not attempt to granulate the batch. cocoanut potatoes. five pounds of sugar, nearly a quart of water, small spoon of cream tartar; cook to 275°; then set off, and stir in two grated cocoanuts; pour out on a damp slab and cream it; then roll out into a strip, one inch in diameter, and cut into pieces weighing two ounces; form these in the shape of potatoes, and roll them in ground cinnamon; then split some blanched almonds into four strips each and stick them into the potatoes, one at either end, and one on either side, resembling sprouts on potatoes. cocoanut biscuit. take one and one-half pounds of powdered sugar to each grated cocoanut; put it into an earthern vessel, and work to a paste with the hands; use a little orange flower water, if desired; now, taking a tin tube, say six inches in length, one and one-half inches in diameter, having a rod with a head just fitting the tube; press the tube into the paste, having it of even thickness in a pan; then force the paste from the tube with the rod, forming a biscuit; when all are formed, take a fine, small brush and dip it in burnt sugar color, and daub a little on the top of each biscuit, to give them the appearance of being browned in an oven; now, wrap them in wax paper, twisting both ends as in french kisses. japanese cocoanut. five pounds of glucose, and two pounds of sugar, one quart of water; when it comes to a boil, add five pounds of grated cocoanut; cook to a hard ball, stirring all the time; pour out on a greased slab, between iron bars; make it of even thickness with a palette knife; when cold, mark diagonally two ways with caramel marker, forming diamonds; then roll in pulverized sugar, or crystalize them. molasses cocoanut jap. place on a slow fire two quarts of new orleans molasses, and one-half pound butter; when it boils, add ten grated cocoanuts, and stir until it reaches a hard ball; then pour out on a greased slab, between bars; spread thickness desired with a palette knife; when cold, cut into squares or diamonds. spanish cocoanut kisses. grate six fresh cocoanuts, then place on the fire eight pounds of sugar, and just sufficient water to dissolve it; when it boils, add the cocoanuts, and stir until it reaches a thread; set off and stir in a few drops blueing; now, pour into a lip basin a small portion, and with a small wooden spatula, granulate until it becomes cloudy; then drop on sheets of tin, cutting the drops from the lip pan by means of a wire; make the drops the size of a silver quarter. almond goods. almond paste. blanch four pounds of almond-nuts; put them into a vessel and cover with water; let them stand for four or five hours; now, drain them; pound and rub them to a smooth paste in a mortar, adding a little orange flower water to keep them from oiling; when the paste is finished, put on the fire eight pounds of sugar and cook to a crack; set off on a barrel and add the almond paste; stir continually until the batch is cold, then put the paste into a crock for use. almond gems. ten pounds of sugar, two quarts of water, small spoon of cream tartar; or seven pounds of sugar and three pounds of glucose; add to batch one-half pint of new orleans molasses; stir till dissolved, then cook to 300°, and add one pound of sweet butter; stir a moment, then pour out; scatter over the batch two pounds of chopped-up almond-nuts; work all together, and run through a drop machine. cream almonds. pick over four pounds of almond-nuts, rejecting all pieces and imperfect ones; cook sixteen pounds of sugar and two quarts of water to a good ball; set it near the fire to keep warm; put the almonds into a basin; set it over the fire, and stir the nuts around until quite hot; now, empty the nuts into a shaker-kettle, and while one person throws the nuts about by shaking the kettle, let another person pour the hot syrup, by means of a lip pan, over the almonds in a thin, continuous stream; continue in this way until the nuts are as large as desired; if flavoring the syrup with vanilla, leave the syrup clear; if with rose or nectar, color it with a few drops of red. another way to make cream almonds on a small scale, is to put into a sieve two pounds of selected almonds; hold them over the fire, shaking them until very hot; cook eight pounds of sugar to a good ball; use one-half spoon of cream tartar; when done, set near the fire; put the sieve containing the almonds on the table, and while one person pours the hot syrup over the almonds in a thin stream, let another person shake the sieve, letting it rest on the table. in making jordan cream almonds, use only one and a half or two pounds of sugar to each pound of nuts. burnt almonds. six pounds of jordan almonds, six pounds of sugar and one quart of water, when the sugar comes to a boil, add the nuts, and cook over a very slow fire until the nuts cease to crack; in this way, the nuts will be thoroughly roasted; now, set off the basin, and stir and turn the batch about until the sugar granulates, throw all into a sieve, and shake the loose sugar off; put this into the basin, with a little water to dissolve it; cook to a soft ball; remove the basin from the fire, and add the nuts; stir and turn the batch until the sugar again granulates; throw into the sieve and shake off the loose sugar as before; put it into the basin with enough sugar added to make six pounds; add water to dissolve, and color a deep red; cook to a soft ball; remove and add almonds as before; while granulating the sugar this time, add one teaspoon of ground cinnamon; now, put into the basin one pint of dissolved gum arabic, made black by adding burnt sugar color to it; set this on the fire, and when it boils, set off and throw in the almonds; stir, throwing the nuts over and over until all are covered with the gum; then spread them out on a tray, and put in a warm place to dry; to make a hard coating, cook the sugar to a hard crack, or 290° each time, instead of a soft ball; this kind will retain the gloss much longer, but the soft covering is the most popular. salted almonds. take any number pounds of blanched almonds; put them into a pea-nut roaster, and roast them to a bright yellow color; throw them into a basin, and pour over them a little dissolved gum arabic; stir so all will be covered with it; now sprinkle over them table salt; remove them from the basin, and spread them out on a pan; they will soon be dry, with the salt adhering to them. almond nougat. put into a copper basin two quarts of honey, and the whites of two dozen eggs; beat to a staunch foam; set on a very gentle fire, made so by covering it with ashes; now, with a long-handled egg-beater stir continually for two hours; when time is about up, cook eight pounds of sugar with a large spoon of cream tartar to a hard crack, or 290°; then put the basin, containing the eggs and honey, on a barrel, and while one person stirs, let another pour in slowly the syrup just cooked; when thoroughly mixed, stir in about three pounds of pistache nuts, or pistache and blanched almond nuts mixed, or all blanched almonds, (the nuts must be well dried after blanching), then pour out into a starch tray, previously prepared, by lining it with ordinary paper; then again with wafer paper; spread the batch of even thickness with a palette knife; then cover the top with wafer paper, and set away to cool--this will require about ten or twelve hours in summer; when cold, cut with a sharp knife into pieces about three or four inches in length, and wrap in wax paper. miscellaneous. fruit cake. ten pounds of sugar, two quarts of cream, one spoon of cream tartar, or two pounds of glucose; cook to a soft ball, stirring all the time; pour on a damp slab, and when cold, cream it; then work into it three or four pounds of french fruits; mold it in large cake pans, and set away a few hours to harden; cut it into slices as sold. nut cakes. are made in the same way, except use nuts instead of fruit; walnuts or hickory-nuts are the best. cream peppermints. take of cream, such as is prepared for dipping purposes, about three or four pounds; put this into a small basin inside of another basin containing hot water; stir until dissolved; then set off and stir into it a few ounces of pulverized sugar, and flavor with mint oil; now, with a funnel dropper, run the cream into drops on sheets of tin, the size of a silver quarter; in a few moments they will be dry and may be slid off the tins easily by turning them sidewise and bending once or twice backward and forward; they may also be run in starch prints if desired. cream wintergreens. same as peppermint, except color pink and flavor wintergreen. small mint drops. cook five pounds of sugar, nearly a quart of water, and a small spoon of cream tartar, or one pound of glucose, to a soft ball; then set off near the fire to keep warm; pour a small quantity of the syrup into a lip pan, say a pint; add to it two or three tablespoons of pulverized sugar; stir until it turns whiteish; then drop in small drops about the size of a dime on sheets of tin; cut the drops from the lip pan by means of a wire; if the cream gets too thick to run easily, add some more syrup, and so continue until all the boiled sugar is used up. molasses mint drops. ten pounds of sugar, water to dissolve, and a small spoon of cream tartar, or seven pounds of sugar and three of glucose; when it boils, add one pint of new orleans molasses, and cook to a hard crack; pour out on a slab; when cold enough, pull all but about two pounds to a bright golden color; form it into a roll and stripe with the clear piece, as for stick candy; then spin out and mark with caramel marker. mint cakes. cook a batch same as for mint stick candy; spin out about one inch in diameter, and cut with the shears into pieces about one inch in length; then stand them on end, and by placing the thumb on the top, press them into flat, round cakes; or, if making in large quantities, cut with a jackson ball cutter, and have two boards fastened together at one end with hinges; place a number of these cuts on end between the boards, and press them into cakes. mint kisses. make a batch the same as for cakes, but run it through a sour drop cutter. lemon cakes. same as mint, except leave the batch clear; place on it a white stripe, as in lemon stick candy. boston chips. this candy is very popular, but it requires considerable skill to make, so do not be disappointed if at your first trial you fail to get it perfect. take ten pounds of sugar and a small spoon of cream tartar; use no glucose, as nicer goods in this line can be made with cream tartar; when it boils, add one-half pint new orleans molasses, and cook to 325°; pour on the slab, and when cold enough pull to a bright yellow; now, place it before the heater, and having a pair of gloves on, rub it on two sides until it assumes the appearance of satin; then spin it out into a thin, flat strip, rubbing it all the time, and let another person feed it through a flake machine; it will still retain its gloss; if you have no machine, it can be run out with the hands. flake candies. these candies are made in the same way as boston chips, either in white, red, or yellow. strings of comfort. cook five pounds of sugar and small spoon of cream tartar till the sugar begins to turn, or about 330°; then pour out and pull perfectly white, and flavor cinnamon; form into a roll and spin out into strings about the thickness of a straw; while yet warm, curl them into different forms; when all is spun out, heap them on a pan; there can be several varieties of these made, coloring and flavoring to suit the taste. pan creams. cook six pounds of sugar, one quart of water, and a small spoon of cream tartar to a soft ball; set the batch away till nearly cold, then add a little orange flower water; stir until it turns whitish, then pour out in a caramel pan; let it remain until cold; then turn the pan upside down, so the cream will drop from the pan; mark it with a sharp knife into small squares; they may then be broken up. several flavors and colors of these creams can be made in the same manner as above. butter scotch. six pounds of sugar, one-half pint molasses and one spoon of cream tartar, or two pounds of glucose; when it begins to cook, add one-half pound of sweet butter; stir until it reaches the crack, or 260°; add a few drops of lemon oil, and pour out on the slab between iron bars; mark into squares whatever size wished. maple cream for counter. ten pounds of maple sugar, small spoon of cream tartar, and three pints of water; cook to a soft ball; set away till it is almost cold; then with the spatula cream it in the basin; as soon as it looks cloudy, pour it out at once in a deep pan; this must be done quickly or it will become hard in the basin; when cold, remove it from the pan in the same manner as the pan creams; mark it into bars or large squares for the counter. cream bars or baby cream. twelve pounds of sugar, a small spoon of cream tartar, or one pound of glucose, two quarts of water; when it boils add two vanilla beans; cook to a soft crack, and pour out on a cold slab; pull until perfectly white; add a drop or so of indigo on the hook, this will assist in whitening it; sugar a warm slab by sieving over it pulverized sugar; place the batch on one corner of the slab, and pull it out into strips the length of the slab; sieve sugar over the strips; now, take an iron bar, one person being on the opposite side of the slab; press one edge of the iron bar across the strips, marking them into bars three or four inches in length; let it remain on the slab ten or twelve hours or until granulation takes place. several varieties can be made, according to the flavor used--such as mint, cinnamon, chocolate, etc. this candy can also be run through a drop machine, and in a day or so the drops will become creamy, and are very nice. fig bar. twenty pounds of sugar, or the same amount of crystal syrup; place it on the fire; when it reaches a thread, add ten pounds of figs; cut up with the candy shears, or, what is better, grate them in the cocoanut grater; stir until the batch reaches a large thread; set it off on a barrel, and sieve into it a pound or so of pulverized sugar; then with the spatula work it on the sides of the basin until it becomes a thick mass; then pour out on a sugared slab between iron bars; spread it of even thickness; now, dissolve eight or ten pounds of plain cream in a basin inside of another basin containing water; color pink, and flavor nectar; pour this cream over the fig paste, and with a palette knife spread it evenly over the batch; leave it lay a few hours or over night; then cut it into bars or squares. fig paste. eight pounds of sugar, two pounds of glucose, one pound and four ounces of starch, two gallons of water, and a little less than one-half a teaspoon of dissolved citric acid; put the sugar and water on the fire; add the acid; when the batch comes to a boil, add the starch dissolved in a little water; add whatever color, and flavor desired, and cook, stirring all the time, until by testing it in cold water, it leaves the fingers on cooling; pour it on a greased slab between iron bars; when cold, sieve over it pulverized sugar, and cut it into small squares. jelly gum drops--lemon. twelve pounds of sugar, two quarts of water, and a small spoon of cream tartar; put on the fire and dissolve; then add one pound of dissolved gum arabic, and a few drops of lemon oil; cook to a soft ball; then remove and with a funnel run it into starch prints; sieve a little starch powder over the tops, and set them in the dry closet till next day; then take them out of the starch, and crystalize or dip them in melted fondant. jelly gum drops--rose. same as lemon, except color with a few drops of liquid carmine, and flavor extract of rose. a. b. gum drops--"old style." put six pounds of pure white gum arabic into a basin with one-half gallon water; place this basin inside of another one containing water; put on the fire and stir until dissolved; then set off, and put on the fire ten pounds sugar and cook to a good soft ball, and pour it into the dissolved gum arabic; now, let it remain undisturbed for awhile; a scum will form on the top; remove this, then with a funnel run it into starch prints; sieve some starch over the tops; put them into the closet at a temperature of about 150°; let remain until next day; then remove and dust off any loose starch with a fine brush, and put to crystal. if a hard gum drop is wanted, use more gum arabic and less sugar. cordial drops. six pounds of sugar, one quart water; cook a good thread, or about 222°; remove from the fire and add one pint of cologne spirits, or ninety-eight per cent. alcohol, having added to it whatever color and flavor desired; now, with a funnel run it into starch prints; sieve a little starch powder over the tops, and set in the warm closet till next day, they may then be removed from the starch and crystalized or dipped in melted fondant. brandy drops are made in the same manner, except use brandy instead of alcohol. marshmallow drops. put into a basin five pounds of white gum arabic pulverized; add one-half gallon water; place this basin inside of another one containing water; set on the fire and stir till dissolved; then add nine pounds of pulverized sugar, and evaporate until of a thick consistency; now, add the whites of two dozen eggs; beat to a staunch foam, and stir until perfectly white and of a good body; or, until when laying the back of your hand on the batch, it does not adhere to it; flavor orange oil, orange flower water, or vanilla; set off, and having a wide-mouthed bag with a tin spout, fill it with the mixture; hold in the left hand, and with the right cut the drops off with a small wire into starch prints; sieve a little starch powder over the tops, and set away in the closet till next day; they may then be removed and put into tin boxes; some use a decoction of marshmallow root in making the drops, but as it gives them a bitter taste, i always omit it. glace nuts and fruits. select a small quantity of english walnut halves, brazil nuts, cocoanut; cut into small squares, cherries, limes, apricots, pine apple, both red and white; cut into small squares, dates and figs; spread all these out on a tray to dry, except the cocoanut, which prepare in the following manner: take three pounds of sugar with one pint of water; when it boils, add the fresh cocoanut, say, one whole one cut into small squares; cook just to a thread; remove and, with the spatula, work the syrup on the sides of the basin till it becomes cloudy; pour all on a wire sieve, having a pan under it to catch the syrup that drains from the cocoanuts; set them away until dry. when ready to glace, cook six pounds of sugar, a teaspoon of cream tartar, and one quart water to about 280 or 290°; pour it into a deep pan, having placed it on the center of a slab, on a rest of some kind, so the cold slab will not chill the syrup; now, throw into the syrup the nuts and fruits, one piece at a time, removing them with a dipping ladle and dropping them on the slab. many other fruits may be prepared in this way, and are very popular, such as orange slices, malaga and california grapes, etc., but only small quantities should be made at a time, as they soon become sticky when exposed to the atmosphere. cream goods cream, or fondant. particular attention must be given to the manufacture of cream, as it is the basis of all cream goods. take twenty pounds of sugar, three quarts of water, and two small teaspoons of cream of tartar or four pounds of glucose; put on the fire and stir until dissolved; cook to a soft ball then pour out on a marble slab, having previously been sprinkled with a little water; let it remain until cold, or nearly so; then turn in the edges, and with a long-handled wooden spatula or cream scraper, work it back and forward until it granulates into a smooth, white mass; now, knead it thoroughly with the hands and put it into a crock; cover with a damp cloth, and it is ready for such goods as plain and fancy creams, chocolate cream drops, cream walnuts, figs, dates, etc., etc. fondant for dipping. use the same proportion of sugar, water, cream of tartar, or glucose, as in previous batch; cook to the blow, or 230° strong; pour out on a cold, damp slab; let remain until perfectly cold, then cream as directed before. this cream is used for all dipped goods, icing goods, etc. how to flavor and color cream. if vanilla flavor is wished, add when the batch begins to boil one vanilla bean to each seven pounds of sugar; prepare the beans in the following manner: split them in halves to the stem; scrape out the centers; place these on the slab so they may be incorporated in the syrup; while creaming the beans, add to the batch; or, if flavoring with extract, pour it on the batch while on the slab; the color should be added when the batch reaches the boiling point. syrup for crystalizing. take any number pounds of sugar, one quart of water to each six pounds, and boil to 34° by the saccharometer if a fine crystal is desired; if a coarse one, boil to 36°; set off and let remain undisturbed until nearly or quite cold; then sprinkle a little water over it to dissolve the thin crystal coating that has formed over the top; it is now ready for use; having placed the goods for crystalizing in pans, with a dipper pour the syrup carefully over them until covered; then place over each pan damp cloths, allowing them to rest on the syrup, this takes up the crust of sugar that forms on top of the syrup; set the pans where they will be undisturbed for about eight or nine hours; then place them in the crystal trough; drain off the syrup and let remain until dry; remove the cloths from them; turn the pans upside down on a table, and the goods will fall out. casting in starch. this process consists in having a number of starched trays, which are made of wood about two and one-half or three feet in length, eighteen or twenty inches in width, and two inches in depth; fill these with fine, dry starch powder and level the top; now, with plaster molds, which are made fast to a strip of wood one or two inches wide, according to the size of the molds, press into the starch and remove carefully; take a confectioner's funnel and a round stick which just fits the small hole at the bottom of the funnel, and long enough to give a hand hold above the funnel; fill part full with syrup, and holding it over the starch prints raise the stick a little and allow enough syrup to escape to fill the print, and so on till all are filled; then remove to the starch closet; when they have remained long enough sieve off the starch; if there is still some starch adhering, dust it off with a fine brush; then place the goods in pans for crystalizing. maple fondant. it is made in the same manner as other cream, except use maple sugar instead of confectioner's a, and a little less cream of tartar or glucose; if wished to tone down the strong flavor of the maple, use one half maple and one-half confectioner's a. dipped bonbons. take three or four pounds of cream made for dipping; put it into a porcelain dipper enclosed in a jacket containing water; place this on the fire, and when the water boils, set off and stir and work the cream with a small spatula until it is the consistency of milk cream; now, place the dipping pot on a table; arrange the centers to be dipped on the left of the pot, and a clean sheet of tin on the right; drop a center in the cream; then with a wire ladle or an ordinary fork, dip the center, and removing it, drop it on the sheet of tin; in a little while they will be hard enough to handle. in this mixture dip english walnut halves, pineapple cut into squares, whole cherries, in this case; color the cream pink and flavor nectar; marshmallow drops making the cream any color desired; almond paste formed into small balls; color the cream a green tint; quince jelly, cream colored orange tint; citron cut into squares, cream, white and vanilla flavor; nougat cut into small strips, chopped-up black walnuts, chopped pistache nuts, filberts, brazil nuts, cocoanut, etc. cordials dipped. dip cordial drops in this same fondant as mentioned above; they are very nice and popular in the winter season, but do not stand well in summer. dipped maple bonbons. prepare three or four pounds of maple cream in the same manner as for white and for centers; cook two pounds of maple sugar to a soft ball, and whip into it the whites of three eggs; beat to a staunch foam; when cold, roll into balls and dip; also dip english walnut halves in this cream. another nice center for maple is one fresh grated cocoanut, and one and one-half pounds of pulverized sugar worked into a paste, rolled into balls and dipped. still another: cook four pounds of maple sugar with one spoon cream of tartar to 265°, and stir into it two grated cocoanuts; pour out on a damp slab, cream it and form it into balls. chocolate bonbons. put into a dipping-pot one ounce of chocolate to each pound of cream to be used; place the pot on the fire, and when the chocolate is melted, add the cream and stir it until dissolved; add about one-fourth of a pint of simple syrup to each pound of melted fondant; this is now ready for dipping; use for centers, english walnuts, hickory-nuts, or brazil nuts; chop them very fine, and work sufficient cream with them to form a paste. a chocolate center made in the following way is very nice: cook to a soft ball three pounds of sugar, a half spoon cream tartar, and three ounces of chocolate; set off and stir into it one-fourth ounce ground cinnamon; granulate a moment, then with a funnel run them into starch prints, any style desired; set them in the closet; next day they may be removed from the starch and dipped. conserve bonbons. cook four pounds of sugar, a little more than one pint of water, and a small spoon of cream tartar to a soft ball; set off and add two or three tablespoons of pulverized sugar; then, with a small wooden spatula, work the sugar on the sides of the basin till it becomes whitish; then pour into the dipping-pot, having the water in the jacket boiling; color and flavor any shade or flavor wished, and dip any kind of jelly centers, dropping them on sheets of tin; when cold, with a small brush dipped in any color wanted, touch the tops of all the bonbons. for example, if the bonbons are pink, use red color. dipped jelly gums. dip fresh jelly gum drops in melted fondant, and drop them into a pan or tray containing chopped-up walnuts, or any nuts desired; roll into balls and crystallize. cocoanut marshmallow bonbons. cut fresh marshmallow drops into four pieces each, and dip them in melted fondant, pink color, rose or nectar flavor, and drop them into a pan containing grated cocoanut; prepare the cocoanut in the following manner: take white desiccated cocoanut; sieve it, rejecting all the fine siftings; pour on the remainder a few drops of red color; stir them thoroughly until all are a pink shade; roll the dipped drops in this, and when cold, arrange them in pans for crystallizing. fruit icings. take of dipping cream any number of pounds desired, say five; put it into a basin inside of another one containing water; place on the fire; stir the cream until dissolved, but not thin; add a few drops of red color, and flavor nectar or strawberry; pour this into a starch tray, lined with good strong manilla paper; spread it in a thin layer over the bottom; now, put over the fire in the same way eight pounds of cream, and dissolve as before; stir into this three or four pounds of cherries, pineapple, citron and apricots, cut up; pour this on top of the first layer, and spread of even thickness; now, again melt five pounds of cream, color a bright green, and pour on top of this last; set away until next day, then turn the tray upside down on a table, and the cream will drop out; remove the paper and run a caramel marker over it two ways, and cut it into squares and crystallize. almond icings. use of same cream as before, about five pounds; dissolve, and pour it into a tray; now, melt one-half pound of chocolate in the basin, and add eight pounds of cream; dissolve and stir in three pounds of almond nuts; pour on first layer and spread of even thickness; then again, melt of white cream five pounds, and spread it over the last, finish as before. hickory-nut icings. take ten pounds of same cream as used before; place it in a basin and dissolve as before; stir in three pounds of choice hickory-nuts, and pour out in a tray, spreading of even thickness; when cold, mark with caramel marker, and crystalize or cook ten pounds of sugar, three pints of water, one teaspoon of cream tartar to a strong ball; let it stand awhile to become cool; then whip into it the whites of four eggs beat to a staunch foam; when it is pure white stir in three pounds of hickory-nuts, and pour into a tray, and spread of even thickness; finish as before. a great many varieties of these goods can be made in this manner, combining different flavors and colors to suit taste. fruit nougat. dissolve as for fruit icings ten pounds of cream; whip into it the whites of three or four eggs; then stir in three pounds of french fruits, such as pineapple, red and white, plums, cherries, etc.; pour into a deep pan and set away till next day; then cut into large squares, same as nougat, and wrap in wax paper. cream walnuts. roll with the hands a piece of cream into a strip about one inch in diameter; then with a knife cut into pieces about one inch in length; roll into a ball, and place a walnut half on two sides opposite each other; place them in pans, and when they have stood a few hours, they may be crystallized. another way, form on a slab a cone of sifted pulverized sugar; any number of pounds desired; hollow out the top and pour in a small quantity at a time of any pure fruit juice; work it into a stiff cream, and color whatever shade corresponds to the flavor used; then roll out and serve in the same manner as before; these are very popular and handsome made in such colors as white, red, yellow, orange and green; crystallize as before. cream dates. select choice whole dates; press with the fingers the seed to one side, and with a pair of shears cut the date in half lengthwise; the seed can now be removed without spoiling the appearance of the date; fill them with cream and roll them in the hands lengthwise, making them long and slim; place them in pans and crystallize. made in this way, they are very handsome; they may be made in white, red, yellow, orange and green. cream cherries and raisins. select only nice, large fruit, and open one-half of them and fill with smooth cream any color or flavor desired--vanilla being the most popular. cream bonbons. having filled a number of starch trays with fine dry starch, print any design desired; then put into a basin four or five pounds of fondant; place this inside of another basin containing water and set on the fire; when dissolved, color and flavor as desired; then remove from the basin containing water, and set over the fire a moment, stirring all the time; do not let it come to a boil, as that would change it into a conserve when cold; now, with a funnel, run it into the prints and set in the closet till next day; then take them out on a sieve; dust off any adhering starch with a fine brush or bellows, they are now ready for crystallizing. jelly cream bonbons. make impressions in the starch trays with molds having two separate designs, one smaller than the other; now make a jelly from apples, color and flavor it to suit taste; then run it into the lowest impression in the starch; after filling all, and they have become cold, dissolve a quantity of fondant to the consistency of cream; color and flavor; now, with the funnel, fill the impressions full over the jelly; set in the closet, and in a few hours they may be taken out, placed in a sieve, and dusted; then put into pan for crystallizing. these molds, having separate designs, may be filled with different colored cream, and they look very handsome. conserve bonbons. print a few starch trays with whatever designs wished; cook five pounds of sugar, a small spoon of cream tartar, and one quart of water to a soft ball; set off and stir in one pound of soft dipping cream; color and flavor; then with a small wooden spatula rub the syrup on the sides of the basin until it assumes a whitish appearance; pour a portion of it into a funnel, setting the remainder near the fire to keep warm; run into the starch prints; in a little while they may be removed, dusted and put to crystal. conserve icings. cook a batch in the same way as for conserve bonbons; whip into it the whites of two eggs, and, when done, instead of running in starch, stir in two pounds of hickory-nuts or any nuts desired; pour in a tray lined with paper; as soon as cold, cut into squares and crystallize. several varieties of these icings can be made, and they are delicious. log icings. chop up a few pounds of blanched almonds; sieve them, rejecting the siftings; divide the remainder into three equal parts; now, take one lot and putting it into a bowl, pour on a few drops of red color; work them with a spatula until all are colored; then spread them out on a sheet of paper to dry; treat the second lot in the same way, coloring it yellow; then the third, coloring it green; now, take of desiccated cocoanut the same amount; sieve and color red, yellow and green; color and flavor a quantity of fondant red, yellow, orange and chocolate; take of the chocolate one-half pound; form into a roll; now, take of the yellow double the quantity; form it into a sheet just reaching around the chocolate; then put a green sheet around this, and with the hands roll it out into a strip one inch in diameter, and cut them into pieces about twelve inches in length; lay these on sheets of tin, or a tray, to harden a little; when firm enough to keep their shape, pour a little simple syrup on a slab; roll a strip in the syrup, then again in any of the colored nuts, and lay aside until the nuts adhere firmly to the cream; then cut into pieces diagonally, about one inch in length; proceed in the same way with all the cream, forming it into rolls, combining such colors as suit the taste, and rolling them in the different colored nuts and combinations of nuts; roll some of the strips in melted chocolate, then again in the nuts; these goods are unequalled for dressing fancy boxes. acorn bonbons. color a number of pounds of almond paste a bright green, and roll out into strips; cut into pieces of equal size; then form into round drops, having one end shaped pointed like an acorn; when all the paste is formed in this way, prepare a chocolate fondant, same as for dipping chocolate bonbons. sieve a quantity of a sugar, reserving only the large bright crystals; put this into a pan; now, take an acorn in the hand and dip the blunt end in the fondant; then stand it in the sugar, chocolate end down, so on drying small crystals of sugar will be adhering to the cap; continue in this manner till all are done; then arrange them in pans and crystallize. fig creams. take green figs preserved; cut them into quarters, leaving them connected at the stem; now, prepare a quantity of cream, colored pink, and flavored strawberry, nectar or rose; roll into a strip, cut into pieces of equal size; form them in cones; put one of these inside of each fig, the base next the stem; press the quarters against the cream; then with a fine brush dipped in red color; make four stripes on each one, starting at the base of the fig between each quarter, and running to the point of the cream; place in pans and crystallize. jelly rolls. cook a stiff apple jelly, color red, and flavor rose or any other flavor desired; spread it out on a greased slab, and when cold lay it on a sheet of cream of same thickness, roll up, cut into slices and crystallize. almond confits. select a quantity of whole dates; press the seed to one side and cut them in halves lengthwise; remove the seed and put a jordan almond inside; close together again and dip in melted fondant, and when cold, cut them in halves and crystallize. crab apples. take of white cream two or three pounds; same amount of red, yellow and chocolate; form these into strips triangle in shape; place them together in such a way as to form a round roll; now, with the hands roll out into a strip about one inch in diameter, and cut into pieces of equal size; roll again into balls; then with a sharp stick make indentations on the two ends of each; arrange in pans and crystallize. pineapple creams. cut a quantity of pineapple into small, narrow strips; roll out with a rolling-pin a sheet of cream quite thin; any color, and with a tin tube one inch in diameter, cut a number of cakes; lay a strip of pineapple on each cake, and fold two sides together over the strips. a very small ribbon may be tied around this and then put to crystal. a great many more fancy hand-made designs might be mentioned, but a sufficient amount have been already named to give any one an idea of how to get them up, and if, after becoming familiar with the modus operandi as given in this volume, they possess some originality, their imagination will readily assist them in producing new designs to the already large variety. chocolate work. how to make chocolate cream drops. the first thing needed is a chocolate warmer; this consists in a large tin or sheet-iron pan, inside of which is a smaller one arranged so water can circulate between them; set this pan on the fire, and bring the water to a boil; set off and put into the warmer any quantity desired of sweet chocolate, having pounded it fine, so as to melt readily; stir thoroughly until dissolved into a thin paste; add a little ground cinnamon; now, having prepared the drops for dipping, in the following manner, viz.: roll out a piece of cream into a strip; then with a knife cut it into pieces of equal size; roll it again into balls; lay them in trays until they have dried a little, so they will keep their shape; then pour a cup of melted chocolate on the warm slab (this should be a small marble slab, set in a frame, having an oil or gas stove, or a few gas jets under it; heat this slab blood warm); throw into it a number of these cream balls; work them around in the chocolate until coated; then drop them from the hand with the forefinger and thumb on sheets of tin covered with wax paper; set them in a cool place until the chocolate hardens; they are then ready for use; in summer they should be put into an ice chest until hardened. another way to prepare the cream for dipping, is to dissolve a few pounds of cream in the same manner as for bonbons; then with a funnel run it into starch prints; in a little while they may be removed from the starch, dusted and dipped as before. in this same mixture may be dipped drops made from powdered sugar in the following way: grate the outside rine of a few lemons, and having formed the sugar into a cone, hollow out the top; pour into this the juice squeezed from the lemons, together with the rine, and work all into a cream; do the same with oranges and with any kind of fruit juice; add a little citric acid dissolved in water to bring out the fruit flavor; also, dip in this mixture roasted almonds, nougat cut into small squares, marshmallow drops, cocoanut paste, plain fondant squares, placing an english walnut half on the top. to make sweet chocolate from plain. melt in the chocolate warmer any number pounds of cocoa paste; when dissolved stir into it one half pound of fine sugar dust to each pound of cocoa paste. pralines. cook four pounds of sugar, small spoon of cream tartar, one quart rich cream to a very soft ball; set off and work the sugar on the sides of the basin with a small wooden spatula until it turns cloudy; work this cloud into the body of the sugar, and so on until it has a whitish appearance throughout; then, with a funnel, run it into starch prints; in a few hours they may be taken out, dusted and dipped in melted chocolate, in the same manner as bonbons, with a wire ladle, dropping them on sheets of tin covered with wax paper; make them in vanilla, strawberry, nectar, lemon, orange and coffee. to make coffee, take one-half pound best ground coffee to one quart of water; set on the fire and bring to a boil; set off and let simmer a few moments; then strain, and use this liquid to cook the sugar with instead of cream, and finish as before; any kind of jelly may be dipped in chocolate, and are very nice. to thin chocolate when too thick for dipping, add a little cocoa butter, rape seed oil or fresh melted suet. to thicken when too thin, add fine sugar dust. chocolate for dipping can be flavored with vanilla sugar, ground cinnamon, cloves, allspice or mace. varnish for chocolate work. place in a glass jar a quantity of gum shellac; pour over it enough alcohol to cover; let remain till next day; when ready to use, pour out a quantity in a vessel; add alcohol until of the consistency of varnish, then apply with a brush. apple jelly. take any quantity of sweet apples; cut them into slices, and put them into a basin with enough water to cover; set on the fire and cook until quite soft; remove and rub through a fine sieve; now, if wishing to run this in starch for dipping, add to one quart of this pulp one ounce of dissolved gelatine; then cook five pounds of sugar to a good ball, and stir in this pulp; now, with a funnel, run it into the starch prints; next day, after removing them from the starch and dusting, they are ready to dip; but if a stiff jelly is wanted for jelly rolls, etc., add to each pint of this pulp one pound of pulverized sugar; set on the fire and boil, stirring all the time, until it begins to adhere to the spatula; then remove and pour out into pans or trays, spreading it of any thickness wished; this is the basis of almost all jellies, such as strawberry, raspberry, pineapple, etc.; simply color and flavor to to suit taste. apricot jelly. cook ten pounds of sugar to a hard ball; then add to it five pounds of apricot pulp, having strained it through a fine sieve; pour a portion into a funnel and set the rest near the fire to keep warm; run it into starch prints, and let it remain until next day: they may then be removed, dusted free of any adhering starch, and dipped in melted fondant. preserving fruits. select the finest fruit, but not too ripe, and pare such as peaches, quinces and pears; then, with an ordinary fork, prick them to the seed in several places, so that the air in the fruit may escape, and also so the sugar may enter the fruit more easily; as they are pricked throw them into cold water, this prevents them from becoming black in the places pricked; now, put them into a basin of hot water, letting them simmer until parboiled, then, with a skimming ladle, dip them from the hot water and drop them into a basin of cold water, allowing them to remain a few moments; remove from the water and put on a hair sieve to drain; when drained, put them in a wide-mouthed crock and bring to a boil a quantity of simple syrup; pour this over the fruit; then place a plate over the top to hold the fruit under the syrup; set away till next day, then empty this crock of fruit and put the syrup again into the basin, and bring just to the boil; return again to the crock and cover with the plate; do this each following day, for six days; by this time the fruit will take up no more sugar; put them into a cool place. glazed fruits. cook a few pounds of sugar to a blow; set off and add such preserved fruits as are wanted; then, with a small wooden spatula, work the sugar against the sides of the basin until cloudy; now, dip out the fruits with a skimming ladle, placing them on a wire screen to dry, which will require an hour or so; they are then ready for the counter. brandied cherries. take an open mouthed jar, till it part full of simple syrup, adding to it alcohol until of such strength as desired, and put into this a quantity of preserved cherries. when they have received sufficient flavor to suit taste, they may be removed and dipped in melted fondant. syrups for the soda-water fountain. as nearly two-thirds of the confectioners handle soda-water, a few practical receipts for making the syrups most used, will, i think, be acceptable to many. in preparing syrups for the fountain use only the best confectioner's a sugar, as this renders the syrups transparent; does not decompose so readily, and saves the time and trouble of clarification, which is necessary if a poor quality of sugar is used. syrups are best preserved by putting them in small earthern jugs, well corked, and in a cool place, ranging in temperature from 40 to 50° fahr. to prevent syrups from granulating, add a small teaspoon of cream of tartar to each twelve and a half pounds of sugar. syrups that have fermented may be restored again by bringing them to the boiling point. always use a copper basin in preparing all fruit syrups. simple syrup. to each gallon of water add one-fourth ounce gelatine; stir until dissolved, then add twelve and a half pounds of confectioner's a sugar; stir until dissolved; set off and remove the scum and place in an earthern jug for use as needed. a variety of syrups may be made from this syrup by adding flavoring and color; but they are artificial at best, and do not compare with those made from fruit juices. vanilla syrup. split three vanilla beans and scrape out the centers; add the beans together with the centers to one gallon of water and one-fourth ounce gelatine; allow to boil a few moments; then add twelve and one-half pounds best sugar; stir until all is dissolved; remove and take off the scum and strain into a jug. a very good vanilla syrup may be made by adding to simple syrup about five ounces of vanilla extract to each gallon. chocolate syrup. place on the fire one gallon of water; when it boils, add twelve ounces of chocolate pounded fine; stir until dissolved, then remove and let stand until nearly cold; when a scum of grease will form on the top, remove this and set again on the fire, and add twelve and one-half pounds best sugar; stir until dissolved; set off and strain into a jug. many do not skim off the grease, thinking a better chocolate flavor is obtained by placing all in an open-mouthed crock or jar, and stirring this scum into the body of the syrup each time before using; but i prefer the former. coffee syrup. to one pound of pure roasted and ground java coffee add one gallon water; place on the fire, and when it boils, remove and cover, allowing it to remain so until nearly cold; then strain, and having placed the decoction again on the fire, add twelve and one-half pounds sugar; stir until all has dissolved and reached the temperature of boiling; set off and strain into a jug. lemon syrup. to one gallon simple syrup add one-half ounce of dissolved citric acid (dissolve the acid by adding one pound of water to one pound of acid), and a sufficient amount of fresh lemon oil to suit taste. another formula.--take the grated yellow rinds of any quantity of fresh lemons; place them in a closed vessel in the proportion of one pint of boiling water to each six lemons; let remain a few hours, then strain; now, press the juice from all the lemons grated, and add this to the juice from the gratings, and to each pint of this add one pint of water and three and one-half pounds of sugar; place on the fire and stir until dissolved; do not let it boil; set off and strain into a jug. orange syrup. proceed in the same manner as for lemon syrup, using the grated yellow rinds of fresh oranges, or flavor simple syrup with extract orange, adding one-half ounce dissolved citric acid to each gallon, and color with saffron and a few drops carmine. strawberry syrup. to three quarts water; having dissolved in it one-fourth ounce gelatine, add one quart pure strawberry juice; place on the fire and add a small quantity of carmine to color; now, add twelve and one-half pounds sugar; stir until dissolved; remove and take off the scum, then add one-half ounce dissolved citric acid; strain into a jug and when cold cork well. _raspberry_, _blackberry_, _pineapple_ and _cherry_ are all made in the same manner. peach and apricot. take a quantity of ripe peaches or apricots; remove the stones; place them on the fire, and adding to them water in the proportion of one quart to four quarts of peaches; stir all the time until reduced to a pulp; pour into a crock, and when cold, strain through a fine sieve; then, having dissolved one-fourth ounce of gelatine in three quarts of water, add one quart of the above juice, and twelve and one-half pounds of sugar, and finish as strawberry, etc. nectar syrup. flavor simple syrup to suit taste with extract nectar, and color pink, with a few drops of carmine or cochineal. another formula.--thoroughly mix together three pints of vanilla syrup with one pint of pineapple and one of lemon; this forms a very nice nectar. catawba syrup. add to simple syrup, colored a delicate pink with carmine, a sufficient quantity of extract catawba to suit taste. another formula.--to one quart simple syrup add one quart of catawba wine; this forms a delicious syrup. orgeat or almond syrup. to one and a half pounds of fresh blanched sweet almonds add one or two ounces of bitter ones; pound these to a smooth paste in a mortar; then add one pint of water and mix; place this mixture in a towel, and twist from it all the milk possible; to this milk add three pounds pulverized sugar; dissolve cold, and add a small quantity of orange flower water; strain into a closed jar, and shake often to keep the milk from separating from the sugar. ginger syrup. color one gallon simple syrup with a little burnt sugar, and add to it one-half ounce tartaric acid, and two or three ounces essence ginger to suit taste. cream syrup. this is prepared simply by adding fresh cream to well-flavored syrups. sherbert syrup. take an equal proportion of orange, vanilla and pineapple syrups mixed. sarsaparilla syrup. flavor simple syrup to suit taste with extract sarsaparilla, and color with burnt sugar. cayenne syrup. color pink one gallon simple syrup, and add two ounces of tincture capsicum, and mix well together. cinnamon syrup. flavor simple syrup to suit taste with extract cinnamon. maple syrup. place on the fire one quart of water, add one-fourth ounce gelatine; when dissolved, add four pounds pure maple sugar; dissolve and strain in a jug. transcriber's notes: text in italics is indicated with underscores: _italics_. the text contains many inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation, and these have been retained from the original. punctuation has been corrected without note. some entries in the table of contents have been moved to reflect the actual order of appearance in the text. obvious typographical errors have been corrected as follows: page vi: cocoa changed to cocoanut page vii: rasins changed to raisins page 27: bonesett changed to boneset page 50: clowdy changed to cloudy page 63: duplicate word "it" removed page 68: laddle changed to ladle page 73: tke changed to the page 77: payer changed to paper page 82: perserved changed to preserved page 87: prelines cahnged to pralines [transcriber's note: bold text is surrounded by =equal signs= and italic text is surrounded by _underscores_.] a little candy book for a little girl the ideal series for girls =a little cook book for a little girl= by caroline french benton cloth decorative, small 12mo. 75 cents; carriage paid, 85 cents the simple, vivacious style makes this little manual as delightful reading as a story-book. =a little housekeeping book for a little girl;= or margaret's saturday mornings by caroline french benton cloth decorative, small 12mo. 75 cents; carriage paid, 85 cents a little girl, home from school on saturday mornings, finds out how to make helpful use of her spare time. =a little candy book for a little girl= by amy l. waterman cloth decorative, with a frontispiece in full color, small 12mo. 75 cents; carriage paid, 85 cents this is a book of special appeal, as it explains in simple fashion the processes of making delicious fudges, fondants, nut dainties and the like. =a little sewing book for a little girl= by louise frances cornell cloth decorative, with a frontispiece in full color, small 12mo. 75 cents; carriage paid, 85 cents a splendid volume to encourage little girls in the study of the useful and beautiful art of the needle. the page company 53 beacon st., boston, mass. [illustration: harriet o'brien] a little candy book for a little girl by amy l. waterman _with a frontispiece in full color by_ harriet o'brien [illustration] boston the page company mdccccxviii _copyright, 1918_ by the page company _all rights reserved_ first impression, may, 1918 the colonial press c. h. simonds co., boston, u. s. a. to elizabeth and dorothy preface the publishers wish to call the attention of the little candy maker to the appendix in this book. the united states food administration, while it does not object to a moderate use of sugar in candy making, strongly advises that it be used sparingly in order that our soldiers and allies may be provided with this energy-giving food that they require. accordingly, a number of recipes requiring a small quantity of sugar, or eliminating it entirely, have been prepared under the direction of this able administration, and the publishers, glad to co-operate in every way, take pleasure in incorporating these recipes and suggestions as an appendix. it should be noted, however, that the author has furnished, throughout the book, a number of recipes that conform in every way to the suggestions made by the government. contents chapter page preface vii i. cool weather candies 9 ii. popcorn goodies 37 iii. fudge 47 iv. caramels 86 v. cream candies--uncooked 92 vi. stuffed dainties 99 vii. cream candies--cooked 107 viii. salted nuts 124 ix. betsey's party 129 appendix 131 index 139 a little candy book for a little girl chapter i cool weather candies betsey bobbitt was a little girl whose real name was elizabeth, but who, whenever she had anything to tell, came rushing to her mother and bobbed about so much--just couldn't keep still--that she earned the name betsey bobbitt. now, the funny part about the nickname was that it was not always appropriate; it only fitted when she came bobbing in with "oh, mother!" and back and forth she would bob, like--like--well, if you ever saw a restless tiger at the circus, or at the zoo, pace back and forth in his cage bobbing his head, you will know just how betsey bobbitt looked as she told her little story. like most little girls, betsey bobbitt would often run errands for the neighbors and nearly always they would insist upon giving betsey bobbitt a penny, saying: "thank you, dear; now buy yourself a stick of candy." poor betsey bobbitt how she did wish she might buy the candy, because if there was anything betsey bobbitt liked it was candy; and poor, poor mother how _she_ wished the neighbors would not be so kind, or rather unkind, for she had tried ever since betsey bobbitt first tasted candy to let her eat only those candies that were pure and wholesome! it truly was hard, because while mother had carefully explained that "penny candies" were unsafe for little children to eat, on account of the cheap, impure materials used in the making, as well as the bright, dangerous colors used upon the outside, to make them look attractive, still betsey bobbitt could not understand why other little girls and boys were allowed to eat them. mother said she was sure the other mothers of little children did not realize how harmful they were, because if they did, they would never allow their little girls and boys to eat them. so betsey bobbitt tried to feel that mother was right about it, but she couldn't quite forget those "sticks of candy." one afternoon in early september, betsey bobbitt and several little schoolmates, on their way home from school, were very busily engaged in talking, and what do you think they were talking about? they were discussing what they wanted to do when they grew up. at first betsey bobbitt was very quiet; this was most unusual, but she listened attentively to the plans of all the others. just then they came to a candy shop in which was displayed a most tempting array of candies. like a flash betsey bobbitt made her decision, and when she said she wanted to be a teacher of "domestic science" the other little girls were so impressed that their own plans were forgotten; in fact some of them did not even know what "domestic science" meant and they were very eager to learn. so betsey bobbitt explained as best she could, what she knew about it and how she ever came to think of such a future; she told them of her mother's friend who went to college to learn how to become a teacher of "domestic science," which included knowing how to cook just everything, the best of all being the most, _oh! most_ delicious candies, and that was what she, betsey bobbitt, wanted to study. the little girls were very much excited and looked first at the pretty candies wistfully and then at betsey bobbitt with awe as it seemed to them very wonderful for any one to be able to make such delicious candies. betsey bobbitt herself was so enthused that she could not wait for the others, so with another hasty glance at the candies and a hurried goodbye to her friends she left them and ran all the way home to tell mother about her wonderful plan for the future. mother knew at once that something very special must have happened and as soon as betsey could gain her breath it all came out. when betsey bobbitt finished her story she received the happiest surprise of her short life, for mother, seeing how earnest and eager her little girl was over her new plan, had been thinking rapidly, and so when all had been told betsey's mother laughed merrily at her little daughter and said: "why wait until you are old enough to go to college? wouldn't you like to begin to learn now?" do you wonder betsey bobbitt nearly fell off her chair, for when she really understood that mother was to teach her to make candy, she bobbed about all over the room, exclaiming: "oh! mother, may i really and truly?" and, again: "oh! mother, i don't think i'll even want to look at penny candy again!" this pleased mother so much that she began at once to look up all the simple ways of making candy that she herself had learned when she was a little girl like betsey, as well as many that had been given to her or that she had cut from favorite magazines and cook books. when these recipes were all arranged, betsey bobbitt began her candy making, and a happy, busy winter and spring she had indeed. mother did not get any special outfit, but just let betsey use the things she had in the house and which would generally be found in any ordinary home, some of which were as follows:-aluminum and agate saucepans, one, two and three quarts; a double boiler; two glass and one tin half-pint measuring cups (divided into quarters, thirds and halves); a set of spoons (measuring one tablespoon, one dessert spoon, one teaspoon, one half teaspoon and one fourth teaspoon); an old large steel knife that had become very flexible with constant use; scales; food-chopper; nut-cracker; corn-popper; a long handled wooden spoon; a small brush for buttering tins; a fine wire strainer for sifting confectioner's sugar; one large and one small egg-beater; and a pair of scissors kept specially for kitchen use. mother also wrote out the following rules for measuring and weighing and hung them up so that betsey could find them easily. these betsey found very helpful. sugar, granulated, 2 cups = 1 lb. sugar, brown, 2-2/3 cups = 1 lb. sugar, confectioner's, 3-1/2 cups = 1 lb. sugar, powdered, 2-2/3 cups = 1 lb. butter, packed solidly, 2 cups = 1 lb. molasses, 1-1/2 cups = 1 lb. corn syrup, 1-1/4 cups = 1 lb. chocolate, 16 squares = 1 lb. the hints for candy making that mother gave betsey, and which she memorized, were as follows:-first. to butter with a brush the inside of the saucepan from the top about two inches down, to prevent the candy from boiling over. second. to use fresh, cold water each time she tried the candy. third. any candy that is to be beaten is better if allowed to cool a few minutes by standing the pan in cold water and if when beaten it looks like smooth thick cream before pouring in pans. fourth. to butter the hands well when pulling candies. fifth. that "soft ball," "hard ball," "thread," and "brittle" mean the different stages sugar reaches while cooking. when a little syrup dropped in cold water can be easily worked between the thumb and finger, it is a "soft ball;" when it is firm and solid, it is a "hard ball;" when it drops from the spoon into a fine thread, it is called "thread;" and when it becomes so hard it will break, it is called "brittle." sixth. never to stir hard candies (unless told to do so) after ingredients are well mixed and have reached the point where the syrup "threads." seventh. that uncooked foundation cream and fondant cream can be made into all sorts of candies. eighth. that pretty, harmless colorings may be made from the following: different shades of red and pink from the juice of raspberries, strawberries, blackberries, elderberries and cranberries; yellow from saffron; and green from spinach and beet leaves bruised and boiled in a very little water. so betsey followed every instruction carefully and these are the candies "betsey bobbitt" learned to make. betsey chose to make the hard candies first, and mother told her she had chosen well as the cool fall and cold winter weather were much better for these candies as they did not become so sticky and hard to handle as in warm weather. one thing in particular mother impressed upon betsey's mind was this: it would be much easier to have all the materials and utensils, used in making the candy, ready, _before_ the cooking began; and another equally important thing was to wash all the dishes and pans and leave everything tidy and in order when finished. butter scotch no. 1 sugar (brown), 2-2/3 cups butter, 1/2 cup water (cold), 2 tablespoons when betsey put these all in the saucepan, she remembered to dip her brush in melted butter and brush the pan about two inches down from the top so that the candy would not boil over, then she let the syrup boil, without stirring, until a little which she dropped from the spoon formed a hard ball in cold water. it was then ready to pour (thinly) in buttered pans and mark, at once, in squares. this was betsey's favorite recipe for butter scotch although she found the following two recipes very nice. butter scotch no. 2 sugar (granulated), 1 cup corn syrup, 1 cup vinegar, 1 teaspoon butter, 1/2 cup betsey put the sugar, corn syrup, vinegar and butter in the saucepan, then dipping her brush in melted butter she brushed the top of the saucepan two inches down, next she stirred the ingredients well together before putting the saucepan on the stove, because after the syrup began to cook it must not be stirred. when it was boiling well betsey tried a few drops in cold water every little while (each time remembering to use fresh water), and when it formed a hard ball she knew it was done. the buttered pans were all ready and into these betsey poured the candy (thinly) and marked it at once into squares. butter scotch no. 3 molasses, 1 cup sugar (granulated), 1 cup butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (lemon), 1/2 teaspoon after the molasses, sugar and butter were put into the saucepan and the saucepan had been well brushed two inches down from the top as mother instructed, betsey let them cook until the syrup reached the hard ball stage when a little of it was dropped in cold water. it was then time to add the flavoring and pour at once into the buttered pans, not forgetting to mark in squares. betsey found that butter scotch was much more tasty when thin, so that was why she buttered more than one pan and had it only a quarter of an inch thick. butter taffy sugar (brown), 3 cups molasses, 1/2 cup vinegar, 1/4 cup water (hot), 1/4 cup butter, 2 tablespoons flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon betsey put everything except the butter and vanilla into the saucepan and boiled these until the syrup formed a hard ball when a little was tried in cold water, then the butter and vanilla were added, and it was cooked three minutes more (betsey counted up to one hundred and eighty) and poured into a large buttered pan. lemon cream candy sugar (granulated), 2 cups water, 1/2 cup cream of tartar, 1/4 teaspoon butter, size of a walnut flavoring (lemon), 2/3 teaspoon betsey dissolved the sugar in the water and let it come to the boiling point, then she added the cream of tartar, which she first dissolved in one teaspoon of hot water, and when the candy was nearly done she put in the piece of butter. when a little of the syrup dropped in cold water formed a hard ball it was then time to add the flavoring and pour in a buttered pan to cool. while the candy was cooling betsey greased her finger-tips well, and when the candy was cool enough to handle betsey began to pull it; at first she found it very awkward but mother showed her just how to do it and before long betsey could do it very nicely. this pulling, as mother explained, was very _quick_ work. then when the candy was white betsey cut it into small pieces with the scissors. vanilla cream candy sugar (granulated), 2 cups water, 1/2 cup cream of tartar, 1/4 teaspoon butter, size of a walnut flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon the sugar and water were put into the saucepan and let come to the boiling point, then the cream of tartar was dissolved in one teaspoon of hot water and betsey added it to the sugar and water. she let these cook, and just before they reached the hard ball stage, added the butter. when the hard ball formed, by dropping a little of the syrup in cold water, the vanilla was added and the candy was poured in a buttered pan to cool. in the meantime betsey greased her finger-tips, and as soon as the candy was cool enough to handle she began to pull it. betsey had to work quickly and as soon as the candy was white she cut it into small pieces. peppermint cream candy sugar (granulated), 2 cups water, 1/2 cup cream of tartar, 1/4 teaspoon butter, size of a walnut flavoring (oil of peppermint), 4 drops after betsey let the sugar and water come to the boiling point she added the cream of tartar dissolved in one teaspoon of hot water and continued to boil until a little of the syrup dropped in cold water had nearly reached the hard ball stage, then she added the butter. when it had quite reached the hard ball stage betsey took it from the fire, dropped in the four drops of peppermint and poured the candy into a buttered pan to cool. greasing her finger-tips just as she did for the lemon and vanilla cream candy, betsey proceeded to pull until white and then cut it in small pieces. betsey's orange cream candy sugar (granulated), 2 cups water, 1/2 cup cream of tartar, 1/4 teaspoon butter, size of a walnut flavoring (orange), 1 teaspoon betsey called this her own recipe, because, while it was made exactly like the "lemon," "vanilla," and "peppermint cream candy," she said to mother one day, "why can't i use orange flavoring and have still another change?" mother told her there was no reason at all why she couldn't, and that she was glad to see betsey thinking out new combinations for herself. so betsey was delighted, and once more mother wrote it out, for, as betsey said, "it was much easier to have it right before you under its own name than to keep turning back to the recipes that had gone before." the sugar and water were brought to the boiling point, the cream of tartar was dissolved in one teaspoon of hot water and added; these she let boil until a little dropped in cold water was almost hard, then betsey put in the butter. when it was quite hard she took it from the fire, added the orange flavoring and poured at once into the buttered pan to cool. betsey found she had time to wash her saucepan, spoon and other dishes before she needed to grease her fingers, and thus made the kitchen more tidy and attractive while she pulled the candy. lemon cream taffy sugar (granulated), 2 cups water, 1 cup vinegar, 1/4 cup butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (lemon), 1/2 teaspoon after betsey began to think for herself she acted in such an important manner that mother smiled to see how rapidly her little daughter was advancing. the sugar, water and vinegar were measured carefully into the saucepan, well mixed, then placed upon the stove to boil. one thing in particular that betsey learned from her own experience was never to let any candy she was making boil too hard; an even steady boil made the candy much nicer, and, besides, it did not then "spit" all over the stove and make the unpleasant odor of burned sugar in the house. betsey tried the candy in cold water and just before it formed a hard ball she added the butter; when it formed a ball that was quite hard she removed the saucepan from the fire, added the lemon flavoring and poured into the buttered pan. with fingers well greased she pulled the candy, as soon as it was cool enough to handle comfortably, until it was very white, then cut it into small pieces with a pair of scissors. orange cream taffy sugar (granulated), 2 cups water, 1 cup vinegar, 1/4 cup butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (orange), 1/2 teaspoon betsey let the sugar, water and vinegar boil until a little of the syrup, dropped in cold water, formed a hard ball. the butter was added just before it was done and the orange flavoring as soon as it was taken from the stove. pouring the candy into the buttered pan, betsey let it stand until she could handle it easily, then with well-greased fingers she pulled the candy white and cut it in pieces. vanilla cream taffy sugar (granulated), 2 cups water, 1 cup vinegar, 1/4 cup butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon the sugar, water and vinegar were boiled until a little of the syrup, tried by betsey in cold water, formed a hard ball. just before it reached this stage betsey slipped in the butter. as soon as it was done betsey took it from the fire, added the vanilla, poured into the buttered pan, let it cool until she could handle it, then greased her fingers and pulled until it was quite white and cut into small pieces. vinegar candy sugar (granulated), 2 cups vinegar, 1/2 cup water, 1/2 cup when the sugar, vinegar and water had boiled long enough so that a little of the syrup, dropped in cold water, formed a hard ball, it was poured into a buttered pan, let cool sufficiently and pulled. it was very simple, since betsey did not have to stir this while cooking or add anything extra. cream of tartar candy sugar (granulated), 2 cups water (hot), 1 cup cream of tartar, 1 teaspoon the sugar, water and cream of tartar were put in the saucepan and well stirred, then boiled until a little of the syrup, dropped in cold water, formed the usual hard ball. betsey found this took about twenty minutes. then she poured the candy into a buttered pan and let it cool so that she could handle it easily. with well-greased fingers she pulled the candy quickly, then cut into small pieces or short sticks with the scissors. chocolate taffy sugar (granulated), 1 cup corn syrup, 1 cup milk, 1/2 cup butter, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares this betsey found to be delicious. she cooked all of the ingredients together, and when a little of the candy, dropped in cold water, was quite hard, she poured it into the buttered pan. when the candy was cool betsey marked it into squares. most little girls like molasses candy and betsey was no exception; she thought the recipes that follow were the best of the kind she had ever tasted. molasses candy molasses, 1 cup sugar (granulated), 1 cup butter, size of an egg vinegar, 1 tablespoon baking soda, 1 teaspoon betsey put all the above named ingredients except the soda into her saucepan to boil. when a little of the syrup, dropped in cold water, became brittle, she took the saucepan off the stove, and added the soda; then she poured the candy into the buttered pan. when it was cool enough to handle betsey greased her fingers and pulled the candy until it was a shiny golden brown, then with the scissors cut it into short sticks. peanut molasses candy (not pulled) molasses, 2 cups sugar (brown), 1 cup butter, 3 tablespoons vinegar, 1 tablespoon peanuts (shelled), 1/2 cup after betsey put the molasses, sugar and butter together in the pan she let them boil until they formed a hard ball when tried in cold water, then she added the vinegar and continued cooking until it became brittle. the buttered pan was ready with the peanuts in and the candy was poured over them. before it became quite cool betsey marked it in squares. * * * * * betsey thought pulling candy the best kind of fun and after she learned perfectly how not to get all sticky, mother allowed her to invite a few of her little friends to have a "pulling bee." this pleased betsey and her little friends very much. one of the little girls said she knew what a "husking bee" was, for once when she was in the country at the time when the corn was full grown, all the friends and neighbors round about had been invited to come and help with the husking. betsey's mother told the little girl a "pulling bee" was the same idea exactly, for they were to come and help pull the candy after it was cooked. each little girl put on one of mother's big aprons and carefully washed her hands, then betsey read the names of the different recipes out loud and mother said they might choose two to make. they chose "betsey's orange cream candy" on page 22 and "molasses candy" given on page 28. mother stayed with them in case they needed her help, although betsey took full charge. betsey certainly managed well, for she kept each little girl busy doing her share, and when the candy was cooked and ready to pull the real fun started. despite betsey's careful teaching, mother's help was much needed in assisting some of the little girls, who just could not help getting all sticky. the afternoon passed so quickly and the candy was so good that the little crowd voted it to be the best time they had ever had. the following week betsey made: molasses kisses molasses, 1 cup water, 1/4 cup sugar (granulated), 1/4 cup honey, 1/4 cup corn syrup, 1 tablespoon the molasses, water, sugar, honey and corn syrup betsey measured carefully into the saucepan, and cooked them until when tried in cold water the syrup formed the usual hard ball. pouring the candy into the buttered pan, betsey let it cool until she could handle it easily. with well-greased fingers she pulled the candy, then cut in pieces and wrapped in wax paper. brown sugar candy (pulled) sugar (brown), 1 cup corn syrup, 1 cup butter, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, 1 tablespoon betsey put the sugar, corn syrup and butter in the saucepan and let them boil without stirring until a little of the syrup, dropped in cold water, became brittle. taking the saucepan from the fire, she added the lemon juice and poured the candy into a buttered pan, greased her fingers well, and pulled when sufficiently cool. then with the scissors she cut in small pieces. * * * * * once when betsey's mother was a young girl she visited a large farm in northern vermont and it was there she had her first butternuts. betsey thought the recipes for butternut candy that follow were the best ever. lemon butternut candy sugar (granulated), 2 cups water, 1/2 cup butternut meats (broken), 1 cup flavoring (lemon), 1 teaspoon after betsey boiled the sugar and water without stirring until thick enough to spin a fine thread, she added the flavoring, placed her pan in cold water, and then stirred it very quickly until it was white, added the nuts, and poured into a buttered pan. when it was cold she cut the candy into small squares. orange butternut candy sugar (granulated), 2 cups water, 1/2 cup butternut meats (broken), 1 cup orange juice, 1 tablespoon putting the sugar and water in the saucepan, betsey let them boil without stirring until it would spin a fine thread from the tip of the spoon. the orange juice was added, and the pan placed in cold water and stirred very quickly until it was white. now betsey added the nuts and poured into a buttered pan, and when cold she cut the candy into small squares. vanilla butternut candy sugar (granulated), 2 cups water, 1/2 cup butternut meats (broken), 1 cup flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon like the "lemon" and "orange butternut candy," betsey put the sugar and water on to boil without stirring. when a fine thread spun itself from the tip of the spoon she removed the saucepan from the fire, added the vanilla flavoring and stood it in cold water. stirring the candy very quickly until it was white, betsey then added the nuts and poured it into a buttered pan. when it was cold she cut the candy into small squares. * * * * * another candy that betsey was very fond of was peanut brittle, and she was eager to make some of her own. mother told her it was very easy to make if you were only careful not to let the sugar burn and worked quickly, so one day betsey made this peanut brittle sugar (granulated), 2 cups peanuts (shelled), 1 cup for this betsey had to have a slow fire. mother told her to put the sugar into the iron frying-pan, and explained how it would first lump, then gradually melt, and that when it was a clear pale coffee color it was ready to pour quickly over the nuts. betsey had put the peanuts in a buttered pan on the back of the range so as to be ready the minute the sugar was properly melted. here is another candy with peanuts that betsey liked. peanut candy sugar (brown), 2-2/3 cups corn syrup, 1 cup water, 1 cup butter, 4 tablespoons peanuts (shelled), 1-1/2 cups the sugar, syrup and water betsey boiled until it was crisp or brittle when tried in cold water. just before taking from the fire she added the butter and nuts, then poured into buttered pans. betsey also made plain peppermints sugar (granulated), 2 cups milk, 1/2 cup cream of tartar, a pinch oil of peppermint, 4 drops after the sugar, milk and cream of tartar were put in the saucepan betsey set it on the back of the range until it looked clear and watery. then she brought it forward and when the boiling point was reached, let it boil one minute, or while she counted sixty. taking it from the fire, she added the oil of peppermint drops and beat until the candy was creamy, then quickly dropped from tip of spoon on waxed paper. sometimes this hardened before betsey could get it all dropped, but putting the saucepan back on the stove, it would melt and she could finish the dropping. cocoanut drops sugar (granulated), 2 cups water, 1/2 cup cocoanut (prepared), 1 cup betsey cooked the sugar and water until it formed a hard ball when tried in cold water, removed from fire, added the cocoanut and beat to a cream. like the peppermints, she dropped quickly on waxed paper. chapter ii popcorn goodies betsey was glad when mother decided on "popcorn goodies," for she found it such splendid fun popping the corn. how betsey loved to watch the kernels burst into the pretty white snowflakes! her first attempt was just plain hot buttered popcorn. mother was busily explaining this recipe to betsey when dorothy, betsey's dearest friend, came over to spend the afternoon. mother invited the little guest to share the fun of popping the corn, and on observing how well the little girls worked together then and there gave dorothy a standing invitation to join in the candy-making whenever she could find the time, and, you may be sure, the invitation was eagerly accepted. hot buttered corn corn (not popped), 1/2 cup butter, 1/4 cup salt. mother saw that the fire was just right, not too hot nor too cold. she told betsey that if it was too hot the kernels of corn did not heat evenly and you were apt to burn them; so betsey followed every instruction, and as the corn popped so also did betsey's eyes pop with excitement to see the little kernels turn inside out. the half-cup of corn she found made about six cups of popped corn. betsey's mother was very particular about having her use only the corn that popped perfectly; the imperfect corn was thrown away. while betsey was popping the corn, the butter had been standing in a large bowl in the warm kitchen, so that it was soft and creamy (mother said it was not so nice if you let the butter melt to oil), and while the corn was still warm, betsey added it to the creamy butter, stirring all the time, then with the salt shaker she shook the fine salt through the corn. this buttered corn was so good it was quickly eaten, so betsey often made double quantity, and many a cold winter's day she and her dearest friend popped corn. sometimes betsey made brown sugar popcorn candy sugar (brown), 2 cups water, 6 tablespoons butter, 2 tablespoons corn (not popped), 1 cup a saucepan containing the sugar, water and butter was placed on the back of the stove to melt the ingredients while betsey popped the corn, one half a cup at a time. while the candy was cooking she carefully picked over the corn, using only the kernels that were perfectly popped, and put them in a large saucepan at the back of the stove. when the candy became brittle as soon as a little was dropped in cold water, betsey poured it over the corn, stirred and mixed it well, removed from fire and continued to stir until the candy cooled a little. it was then poured into a buttered pan, a heavy weight placed on the top (mother had to show her how) and as soon as it was cold betsey cut it into bars with a very sharp knife. sometimes the knife would stick while cutting, but mother said if she would dip the blade in water now and then she would find it much easier. popcorn candy sugar (granulated), 1 cup water, 3 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon corn (not popped), 1 cup first betsey popped the corn, putting one half a cup in the popper at a time; after picking the corn over carefully she had about twelve cups or three quarts of popped corn. then the sugar, water, and butter were put in a saucepan and cooked until it was brittle, when tried in cold water; the popped corn, which had been kept in a large saucepan at back of the stove, was then covered with the syrup, stirred until it was well mixed, then taken from fire and the stirring continued till the mixture cooled a little. now she poured it into a buttered pan, placed a weight over it, and when cold cut into bars with a sharp knife. if the knife stuck while cutting, betsey dipped the blade in water now and then, as mother had taught her. popcorn balls molasses, 1 cup sugar (granulated), 1/2 cup butter, 1 tablespoon corn (not popped), 1 cup the corn betsey popped, picked over and put in a good-sized buttered pan, then shook just a little salt over it. the butter, sugar and molasses she boiled until it became brittle when tried in cold water, then poured the candy slowly over the corn, stirring all the while. betsey then buttered her hands and shaped the corn into balls as soon as it was cool enough for her to handle. maple sugar popcorn balls maple syrup, 1 cup sugar (granulated), 1/2 cup butter, 1 tablespoon corn (not popped), 1 cup as betsey became more and more expert in making candy she found she could plan many ways to save time. having everything ready to work with at the beginning made the work far easier. so while betsey popped the corn, the maple syrup, sugar and butter were busily boiling. of course betsey had to work quickly and put her whole mind on what she was doing. by the time the corn was popped, carefully picked over and placed in a good-sized buttered pan, then sprinkled with a little salt, the candy was about done. she tried a little in cold water, and when it became brittle she poured it slowly over the corn, constantly stirring. when it was cool enough to handle, betsey, with well-buttered fingers, shaped it into balls, which she wrapped in waxed paper. how to sugar popcorn sugar (granulated), 2 cups water, 1/2 cup butter, 2 tablespoons corn (not popped), 3/4 cup betsey, after first popping the corn, put the sugar, water and butter in a saucepan. when the candy was boiling betsey added the popcorn gradually, until all had been added that the syrup would cover, then stirred gently from the bottom until the sugar formed grains on the corn. it was then turned into a dish to cool. frosted popcorn molasses, 1 cup sugar (granulated), 1/2 cup butter, 1 tablespoon corn (not popped), 1 cup powdered sugar. this was very pretty. after the popcorn was nicely popped and placed in a large buttered saucepan betsey cooked the molasses, sugar and butter until it was brittle when tried in cold water, poured it over the corn slowly and mixed thoroughly. over this she shook an abundance of powdered sugar and mixed it in until the kernels separated and rattled. pink frosted popcorn sugar (granulated), 2 cups water, 1/2 cup butter, 1 tablespoon corn (not popped), 1 cup powdered sugar. strawberry juice. betsey popped the corn, picked it over, then placed in a large buttered saucepan. the sugar, water and butter she cooked until a little of the syrup, dropped in cold water, became brittle, then she added enough strained strawberry juice (a few drops at a time) to make it just the shade of pink she liked best. this she then poured over the corn slowly, stirring all the while, next she shook an abundance of powdered sugar over it all and stirred it in until the kernels separated and rattled. red frosted popcorn sugar (granulated), 2 cups water, 1/2 cup butter, 1 tablespoon corn (not popped), 1 cup powdered sugar. cranberry juice. the granulated sugar, water and butter were placed in a saucepan at the back of the range to melt while betsey popped the corn, one half a cup at a time. picking it over carefully and throwing away all those kernels that were not properly popped, she placed the corn in a large buttered saucepan, then cooked the syrup until a little dropped in cold water became brittle. adding the strained cranberry juice a few drops at a time until it became a brilliant red, betsey slowly poured the candy over the corn, stirring constantly, then shaking an abundance of powdered sugar over the corn, she stirred it in until each kernel was separate. chocolate frosted popcorn sugar (granulated), 2 cups water, 1/2 cup butter, 1 tablespoon chocolate, 2 squares corn (not popped), 1 cup powdered sugar. this betsey made just as she did the other "frosted popcorn." she popped the corn, one half a cup at a time, picked it over and placed the perfect kernels in a large buttered saucepan, throwing away the imperfect kernels. the sugar, water, butter and chocolate were cooked until a little of the syrup, dropped in cold water, became brittle. it was then poured slowly over the corn and stirred constantly. the powdered sugar betsey shook over the corn in abundance and mixed until each kernel separated and rattled. * * * * * at christmas time betsey made a number of the different kinds of frosted popcorn. some of them she strung for the christmas tree and others she used for filling little net bags. the little net bags she made of different colors, some red, some green and others of dark blue and white net. she put a few silver stars here and there on the outside of each bag and filled them with the frosted corn. they were most attractive, and her little friends, to each of whom she presented one, thought they were wonderful, and marvelled at betsey's original ideas. chapter iii fudge when the christmas holidays were over and the excitement incident thereto had abated, betsey was eager to continue her candy-making, and when mother suggested fudge betsey just bobbed and bobbed, but finally said: "oh, i know that i will enjoy all of the different fudges, but are you sure that you have them all, mother?" mother smiled at her little pupil's enthusiasm and replied: "well, betsey, i may not have all of the fudge recipes, but i am sure i have a very large number, for fudge has always been one of my favorite candies, and i have always enjoyed making it in different ways." and as the weeks went on betsey made the following fudges: first mother explained to betsey that to have fudge very creamy was all-important, and instructed her _not_ to beat it until it became sugary, but only until it looked like thick heavy cream, then it was ready to pour at once in the buttered pan and mark in squares. cocoanut fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups milk, 3/4 cup butter, size of a walnut cocoanut (prepared), 1/2 cup all except the cocoanut betsey let boil ten minutes, took from the fire, added cocoanut, beat till it thickened and poured into buttered pan. chocolate fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon the sugar, milk and chocolate were dissolved in the saucepan at back of stove, then brought forward and boiled until betsey could form a soft ball between her thumb and fingers when a little was dropped in cold water; taking the saucepan from the stove, she placed it in a pan of cold water, added the butter and vanilla, beat until it was like heavy cream, then poured quickly into the buttered pan and marked in squares. * * * * * when betsey found how many different "fudges" could be made she welcomed each new recipe with glee. chocolate fudge with molasses sugar (granulated), 2 cups molasses, 1/4 cup milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon putting the sugar, molasses, milk, chocolate and butter in the saucepan, betsey let them boil until they formed a soft ball when a little of the syrup was dropped in cold water, then she removed the saucepan from the fire, added the vanilla and placed the saucepan in a pan of cold water. beating the fudge until it looked about as thick as heavy cream, betsey poured it into a buttered pan and marked in squares. chocolate fudge with brown sugar sugar (brown), 2-2/3 cups milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon as before, betsey put the sugar, milk, chocolate and butter in the saucepan and on to boil and let them cook until a little of the syrup dropped in cold water formed a soft ball between the thumb and finger, then adding the vanilla, she removed the saucepan from the fire and placed it in a pan of cold water. after beating the fudge until it was as thick as heavy cream, betsey poured it into the buttered pan and marked in squares. * * * * * if mother happened to be out of chocolate, which sometimes occurred, betsey made a fudge with cocoa or coffee. fudge with cocoa sugar (granulated), 2 cups milk, 1/2 cup cocoa, 4 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon betsey melted the butter in the saucepan first, then added the cocoa gradually, and when it was very smooth included the sugar and milk. these she let boil until a little of the syrup dropped in cold water formed a soft ball, then removing the saucepan from the fire, she placed it in a pan of cold water, added the vanilla, beat the fudge until it was thick like heavy cream, and poured it in the buttered pan and marked in squares. fudge with coffee sugar (granulated), 2 cups coffee, 1 cup (not too strong, and strained through cheesecloth.) butter, 2 tablespoons let sugar, coffee and butter cook until a little dropped in cold water forms a soft ball, betsey explained to a friend of mother's who happened in, remove saucepan from fire and stand in a pan of cold water, then beat until it looks as thick as nice heavy cream, when you pour at once into a buttered pan and mark in squares. the friend liked the coffee flavor so well that she went home and made some for herself. when betsey began to add nuts, raisins, figs, dates, marshmallows or marshmallow cream to the different kinds of fudges, mother at first thought it unnecessary to re-write the quantities and directions, but betsey exclaimed, "why, mother, it will be so much easier if i have each recipe written out all by itself, then i won't need to keep referring back!" and mother found betsey was right. it saved all confusion, and, of course, betsey was only a little girl, so mother continued to make each recipe complete in itself, regardless of how little it might vary from one previously given. chocolate walnut fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon walnut meats (broken), 1/2 cup the sugar, milk, chocolate and butter betsey boiled until a little of the syrup dropped in cold water formed a soft ball. removing the saucepan from the fire, she placed it in a pan of cold water, added the vanilla and nuts, then beat until it was thick like heavy cream. pouring quickly into a buttered pan, she marked it into squares. chocolate pecan fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon pecan meats, 1/2 cup when the sugar, milk, chocolate and butter had boiled so that a little of the syrup dropped in cold water formed a soft ball, betsey removed the saucepan from the fire, stood it in a pan of cold water, added the vanilla and nuts and beat the candy until it was as thick as heavy cream. she poured it quickly into a buttered pan and marked in squares. chocolate almond fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon almonds (blanched and broken), 1/2 cup mother told betsey to shell the almonds and measure them in the measuring cup, then put them in a small bowl and cover with _boiling_ water for about a minute. this she did, then drained off the water and the little brown skins peeled off very easily. next she cut them into small pieces and they were ready for the fudge, which she proceeded to make in the usual manner. the sugar, milk, chocolate and butter were boiled until they formed a soft ball, when a little of the syrup was dropped in cold water; removing the saucepan from the fire, it was placed in a pan of cold water and the nuts and vanilla added, then betsey beat it well until it was thick like rich, heavy cream and poured at once into the buttered pan and marked in squares. chocolate peanut fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon peanuts (shelled), 1/2 cup putting the sugar, milk, chocolate and butter into a saucepan, betsey let them boil until they reached the "soft ball" stage, then removing from the fire she placed the saucepan in a pan of cold water, added the peanuts and vanilla and beat until it was thick like heavy cream. pouring at once into a buttered pan, she marked the candy in squares. chocolate raisin fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon raisins (seeded), 1/2 cup after measuring out the sugar, milk, chocolate and butter, betsey put them on to boil, and while these were cooking so the syrup formed a soft ball when a little of it was dropped in cold water, betsey picked over the raisins and cut each one in halves. sometimes she used the seeded raisins or the small sultana raisins, or again the "not-a-seed" raisins. but whichever she used, she first found it necessary to put them in a bowl and cover with boiling water that she might soften and separate them easily. it only took a minute, and after draining them carefully she turned them out on a towel so that the extra moisture might be absorbed. then when the candy was done she added the raisins and vanilla and placed the saucepan in a pan of cold water. next she beat the candy well, and when it was as thick as heavy cream, poured it into the buttered pan and marked in squares. chocolate fig fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon figs (cut in small pieces), 1/2 cup betsey let the sugar, milk, chocolate and butter cook until a little of the syrup, dropped in cold water, formed a soft ball; in the meantime she wiped each fig carefully with a damp cloth and cut out the hard little stem, then she cut them up into small pieces. when the candy was sufficiently cooked she removed the saucepan from the fire and placed it in a pan of cold water, added the figs and vanilla, beat until it was thick like heavy cream, poured quickly into buttered pan and marked in squares. chocolate date fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon dates (cut in small pieces), 1/2 cup after the sugar, milk, chocolate and butter were on the stove cooking betsey prepared her dates. she removed the large stone and cut each date into four pieces. by the time the candy had cooked so that a little of it when dropped in cold water formed a soft ball, betsey removed it from the fire and placed the saucepan in a pan of cold water; then she added the dates and vanilla, beat the candy until it was thick like heavy cream and poured at once into a buttered pan and marked in squares. chocolate marshmallow fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon marshmallow cream, 2 tablespoons when betsey had cooked the sugar, milk, chocolate and butter until a little of the syrup when dropped in cold water formed a soft ball, she removed the saucepan from the stove and stood it in a pan of cold water. the vanilla and marshmallow cream were added and the candy beaten until it was as thick as heavy cream, then pouring at once into the buttered pan she marked it into squares. sometimes betsey added a half cup of walnuts or pecans with the marshmallow cream. this made a very rich and delicious fudge. chocolate molasses walnut fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups molasses, 1/4 cup milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon walnut meats (broken), 1/2 cup the sugar, molasses, milk, chocolate and butter betsey measured carefully into the saucepan, put on the stove and let boil until a little of the syrup, dropped in cold water, formed a soft ball, then removing from the fire she placed the saucepan in a pan of cold water, added the nuts and vanilla and beat the candy until it was thick like heavy cream. into the buttered pan she poured it quickly and marked in squares. chocolate molasses pecan fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups molasses, 1/4 cup milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon pecan meats, 1/2 cup the pecan nuts mother usually bought ready shelled so betsey had only to measure them out with the other ingredients. putting the sugar, molasses, milk, chocolate and butter in the saucepan, she stirred them well together before cooking. these she boiled until a little of the syrup formed a soft ball when it was dropped in cold water. removing the saucepan from the fire, she stood it in a pan of cold water, added the nuts and vanilla and beat the fudge until it was thick and creamy. pouring quickly into a buttered pan she marked it into squares. chocolate molasses almond fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups molasses, 1/4 cup milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon almonds (blanched), 1/2 cup betsey blanched the almonds after she had shelled them just as she did before, by pouring _boiling_ water over them and letting them stand about a minute, then draining off the water, she slipped off the little brown skins easily and divided the almonds in halves. the sugar, molasses, milk, chocolate and butter she cooked to the soft ball stage, removed from fire, placed saucepan in a pan of cold water, added nuts and vanilla, then beat till it was thick like heavy cream, poured quickly into buttered pan and marked in squares. chocolate molasses peanut fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups molasses, 1/4 cup milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon peanuts (shelled), 1/2 cup when betsey had cooked the sugar, molasses, milk, chocolate and butter so that a little of the syrup formed a soft ball when it was dropped in cold water, she removed the saucepan from the fire, placed it in a pan of cold water, added the peanuts and vanilla, beat well till it was thick and creamy, poured quickly into a buttered pan and marked in squares. chocolate molasses raisin fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups molasses, 1/4 cup milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon raisins (seeded), 1/2 cup betsey measured out a half-cup of seeded raisins, put them in a small bowl and poured over sufficient boiling water to cover. letting these stand a minute or two until they were easy to separate, she then drained off the water and spread the raisins on a towel, gently patting them, until all the water was absorbed. next she cut them in halves. in the meantime the sugar, molasses, milk, chocolate and butter had been cooking; when a little of the syrup dropped in cold water formed a soft ball, betsey removed the saucepan from the fire, placed it in a pan of cold water, added the raisins and vanilla, beat the fudge till it was thick, then poured quickly into a buttered pan and marked in squares. chocolate molasses fig fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups molasses, 1/4 cup milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon figs (cut in pieces), 1/2 cup in preparing the figs betsey took a damp cloth and wiped each one carefully, cut out the hard little stem, then cut each fig into small pieces. the sugar, molasses, milk, chocolate and butter were boiled until a little of the syrup dropped in cold water could be formed into a soft ball between the thumb and finger; removing it from the fire betsey placed the saucepan in a pan of cold water, added the figs and vanilla, beat till it was thick like heavy cream, poured quickly into buttered pan and marked in squares. chocolate molasses date fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups molasses, 1/4 cup milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon dates (cut in pieces), 1/2 cup removing the large stone from the dates, betsey cut each one into four pieces. the sugar, molasses, milk, chocolate and butter she boiled to the "soft ball" stage. it was then ready to remove from fire and place the saucepan in a pan of cold water, add the dates and vanilla, beat till it was thick and pour quickly in buttered pan and mark in squares. chocolate brown sugar walnut fudge sugar (brown), 2-2/3 cups milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon walnut meats (broken), 1/2 cup when betsey had cooked the sugar, milk, chocolate and butter so that when she dropped a little of the syrup in cold water she could form a soft ball between her thumb and finger she removed the saucepan from the fire, stood it in a pan of cold water, added the vanilla and walnuts, beat the fudge till it was thick and poured quickly into a buttered pan and marked in squares. chocolate brown sugar pecan fudge sugar (brown), 2-2/3 cups milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon pecan meats, 1/2 cup the sugar, milk, chocolate and butter betsey cooked to the usual "soft ball" stage, removed the saucepan from the fire, stood it in a pan of cold water, added the vanilla and pecans, beat till it was thick and poured quickly into a buttered pan and marked into squares. chocolate brown sugar almond fudge sugar (brown), 2-2/3 cups milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon almonds (blanched), 1/2 cup when the almonds were shelled betsey liked to blanch them. after they had been covered with boiling water for about a minute she could remove the brown skins very easily and divided them in halves. the sugar, milk, chocolate and butter were all ready to boil. betsey let them cook till a little of the syrup dropped in cold water formed a soft ball, then removed the saucepan from the fire, stood it in a pan of cold water, added the almonds and vanilla, beat the fudge until it was thick like heavy cream, poured quickly into the buttered pan and marked in squares. chocolate brown sugar peanut fudge sugar (brown), 2-2/3 cups milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon peanuts (shelled), 1/2 cup while the sugar, milk, chocolate and butter were cooking, betsey shelled the peanuts. when the candy was sufficiently cooked, so that a little of it, dropped in cold water, formed a soft ball between the thumb and finger, it was removed from the fire and the saucepan stood in a pan of cold water. betsey next added the nuts and vanilla, beat the fudge till it was thick like heavy cream, poured quickly into the buttered pan and marked in squares. chocolate brown sugar fig fudge sugar (brown), 2-2/3 cups milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon figs (cut in small pieces), 1/2 cup the sugar, milk, chocolate and butter were cooked until a little of the syrup dropped in cold water formed a soft ball. the saucepan was then removed from the fire and stood in a pan of cold water. now betsey added the vanilla and figs (the figs she had prepared by wiping each one with a damp cloth, removing the little hard stem and cutting into small pieces), beat the fudge till it was as thick as heavy cream, poured quickly into the buttered pan and marked in squares. chocolate brown sugar date fudge sugar (brown), 2-2/3 cups milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon dates (cut in four pieces), 1/2 cup after betsey had prepared the dates by removing the long stone and cutting each date in four pieces she put the sugar, milk, chocolate and butter on to boil. as soon as the syrup formed a soft ball between the thumb and finger when a little of it was dropped in cold water she removed the saucepan from the fire, stood it in a pan of cold water, added the vanilla and dates, beat the fudge till it was as thick as heavy cream, poured quickly into a buttered pan and marked in squares. chocolate brown sugar raisin fudge sugar (brown), 2-2/3 cups milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon raisins (seeded), 1/2 cup while the sugar, milk, chocolate and butter were boiling betsey poured boiling water over the raisins, let them stand a minute or two, then drained and spread on a towel to absorb all of the moisture. she then cut them in halves. when a little of the candy dropped into cold water formed a soft ball betsey removed the saucepan from the stove, placed it in a pan of cold water, added the raisins and vanilla, beat the fudge until it was thick like heavy cream, poured quickly into a buttered pan and marked in squares. chocolate brown sugar marshmallow fudge sugar (brown), 2-2/3 cups milk, 1/2 cup chocolate, 2 squares butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon marshmallow cream, 2 tablespoons the candies in which betsey put marshmallow cream she considered her "very choicest" as she expressed it. cooking the sugar, milk, chocolate and butter until a little of the syrup, when dropped in cold water, formed a soft ball, then removing from fire and standing the saucepan in a pan of cold water, she next added the vanilla and marshmallow cream, beat the fudge till it was thick like heavy cream, poured quickly into a buttered pan, then marked in squares. cocoa walnut fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups milk, 1/2 cup cocoa, 4 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon walnut meats (broken), 1/2 cup after the sugar, milk, cocoa and butter were cooked so that a little of the syrup formed a soft ball when it was dropped in cold water, betsey removed the saucepan from the fire, stood it in a pan of cold water, added the nuts and flavoring, beat till it was thick like cream, poured quickly into a buttered pan and marked in squares. cocoa pecan fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups milk, 1/2 cup cocoa, 4 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon pecan meats, 1/2 cup mother forgot to write out in the previous recipes that it was better to first melt your butter and add the cocoa and sugar gradually, then the milk a little at a time, so that it would be smooth, but, fortunately, betsey remembered. these she let cook until a little of the syrup dropped in cold water formed a soft ball, then removing the saucepan from the fire, betsey placed it in a pan of cold water, added the vanilla and pecan meats, beat till it was thick like heavy cream, poured quickly into a buttered pan and marked in squares. cocoa almond fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups milk, 1/2 cup cocoa, 4 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon almonds (blanched), 1/2 cup betsey shelled the almonds, covered them with boiling water for about a minute, then removed the brown skins and divided the almonds in halves. melting the butter in the saucepan she added the cocoa and sugar gradually, then the milk and let them boil until a little of the syrup dropped in cold water formed a soft ball. taking the saucepan from the fire, she stood it in a pan of cold water, added the vanilla and almonds, beat till it was thick like heavy cream, poured quickly into a buttered pan and marked in squares. cocoa peanut fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups milk, 1/2 cup cocoa, 4 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon peanuts (shelled), 1/2 cup the butter was melted, the cocoa and sugar added gradually, the milk a little at a time, then all boiled until a little of the syrup dropped in cold water formed a soft ball. taking from the fire, betsey placed the saucepan in a pan of cold water, added the vanilla and peanuts, beat until it was as thick as heavy cream, poured quickly into a buttered pan and marked in squares. cocoa fig fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups milk, 1/2 cup cocoa, 4 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon figs (cut in small pieces), 1/2 cup when the figs were each wiped with a damp cloth, the hard little stems removed, and the figs cut into small pieces, betsey then melted the butter, added the cocoa and sugar gradually, poured in the milk a little at a time and boiled until a little of the syrup formed a soft ball when dropped in cold water. removing the saucepan from the fire and standing it in a pan of cold water, she added the figs and vanilla, beat the fudge till it was as thick as heavy cream, poured quickly into a buttered pan and marked in squares. cocoa date fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups milk, 1/2 cup cocoa, 4 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon dates (stoned), 1/2 cup betsey removed the long stones from the dates, then cut each date into four pieces. the candy she made by first melting the butter, adding to that gradually the cocoa and sugar, then the milk a little at a time. these she let boil until a little of the syrup, when dropped in cold water, formed a soft ball. it was then ready to remove from the stove and place the saucepan in a pan of cold water; this betsey did, then added the dates and vanilla; beating the fudge until it was as thick as heavy cream, pouring quickly into a buttered pan and marking it in squares. cocoa raisin fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups milk, 1/2 cup cocoa, 4 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon raisins (sultana), 1/2 cup this time betsey thought she would try the small sultana raisins in place of the regular seeded ones. covering them with boiling water for a minute or two to soften, she then drained off the water and spread on a towel to dry. these did not need to be cut, but any little stems that might be on them must be picked off. after she had melted the butter, added the cocoa and sugar gradually, then the milk a little at a time, she let the mixture boil until a little of the syrup dropped in cold water formed a soft ball. removing from the fire, she placed the saucepan in a pan of cold water, added the raisins and vanilla, beat until the fudge was thick like heavy cream, poured quickly into a buttered pan and marked in squares. cocoa marshmallow fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups milk, 1/2 cup cocoa, 4 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon marshmallow cream, 2 tablespoons when the butter was melted, the cocoa and sugar added gradually, the milk poured in a little at a time, then all cooked until a little of the syrup, when dropped in cold water, formed a soft ball, betsey removed the saucepan from the fire, stood it in a pan of cold water, added the vanilla and marshmallow cream, beat the fudge until it was thick like heavy cream, poured it quickly into a buttered pan and marked in squares. coffee walnut fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups coffee, 1 cup (not too strong, and strain through cheesecloth.) butter, 2 tablespoons walnut meats (broken), 1/2 cup the sugar, coffee and butter were cooked until a little of the syrup, dropped in cold water, formed a soft ball. betsey then removed the saucepan from the fire, stood it in a pan of cold water, added the walnut meats, beat till it was thick like heavy cream, poured quickly into a buttered pan and marked in squares. coffee pecan fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups coffee, 1 cup (not too strong, and strain through cheesecloth.) butter, 2 tablespoons pecan meats, 1/2 cup betsey boiled the sugar, coffee and butter until a soft ball formed when she dropped a little of the syrup in cold water. removing the saucepan from the fire, she placed it in a pan of cold water, added the pecan meats, then beat the fudge until it was thick like heavy cream. pouring quickly into a buttered pan, she marked the candy into squares. coffee almond fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups coffee, 1 cup (not too strong, and strain through cheesecloth.) butter, 2 tablespoons almonds (blanched), 1/2 cup while the sugar, coffee and butter were cooking, betsey shelled and blanched the almonds. this was done by covering the almonds with boiling water for about a minute so that the brown skins might be easily removed. the almonds were then split in halves. as soon as the candy formed a soft ball by dropping a little of the syrup in cold water, betsey removed it from the fire, placed the saucepan in a pan of cold water, added the almonds, beat the fudge until it was thick like heavy cream, poured quickly into the buttered pan and marked in squares. coffee peanut fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups coffee, 1 cup (not too strong, and strain through cheesecloth.) butter, 2 tablespoons peanuts (shelled), 1/2 cup betsey shelled the peanuts while the sugar, coffee and butter boiled until a little of the syrup dropped in cold water formed a soft ball. then she removed the saucepan from the fire, stood it in a pan of cold water, added the peanuts, beat the fudge until it became thick, poured it quickly into the buttered pan and marked in squares. coffee raisin fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups coffee, 1 cup (not too strong, and strain through cheesecloth.) butter, 2 tablespoons raisins (seeded), 1/2 cup after measuring the sugar, coffee and butter, they were boiled until a little of the syrup, dropped in cold water, formed a soft ball. while these were cooking betsey poured boiling water over the raisins, let them stand for a minute or two, then drained off the water and spread on a towel to dry. when the moisture was all absorbed, betsey cut each raisin in halves with the scissors. as soon as the candy was sufficiently cooked betsey removed the saucepan from the fire, stood it in a pan of cold water, added the raisins, beat the fudge till it was thick like heavy cream, poured into the buttered pan and marked in squares. coffee fig fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups coffee, 1 cup (not too strong, and strain through cheesecloth.) butter, 2 tablespoons figs (cut in small pieces), 1/2 cup the figs were wiped, stems removed, then each fig was cut in small pieces. when the sugar, coffee and butter were cooked so that a little of the syrup tried in cold water formed a soft ball, betsey removed the saucepan from the fire, stood it in a pan of cold water, added the figs, beat the fudge until it was thick like heavy cream, poured quickly into a buttered pan and marked in squares. coffee date fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups coffee, 1 cup (not too strong, and strain through cheesecloth.) butter, 2 tablespoons dates (stoned), 1/2 cup when the long stones were removed from the dates betsey cut them each into four pieces. the sugar, coffee and butter she cooked until a little of the syrup tried in cold water formed a soft ball, then removing the saucepan from the fire she placed it in a pan of cold water, added the dates, beat the fudge till it was as thick as heavy cream, poured quickly into a buttered pan and marked in squares. coffee marshmallow fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups coffee, 1 cup (not too strong, and strain through cheesecloth.) butter, 2 tablespoons marshmallow cream, 2 tablespoons the sugar, coffee and butter were boiled until a little of the syrup when tried in cold water formed a soft ball, then removing the saucepan from the fire, betsey stood it in a pan of cold water, added the marshmallow cream, beat the fudge till it was as thick as heavy cream, poured quickly into a buttered pan and marked in squares. * * * * * there were still other combinations in the fudges that betsey could make, but she herself was satisfied, for the time being, anyway, and as she told mother, "on extra special occasions i can add nuts to any of my recipes with marshmallow cream." just before she started to make "pinoche" or "brown sugar nougat," as her mother's old recipe was called, mother received a letter from a dear friend, who was much interested in betsey's candy making, in which she enclosed a new recipe; strange to say it was another one for fudge. it was all written out on pretty pink paper. this was it. sour milk fudge sugar (granulated), 2 cups cornstarch, 1 tablespoon sour milk (not too old), 1-1/2 cups chocolate, 1 square butter, 1 tablespoon walnut meats (chopped), 1/2 cup betsey first grated the chocolate and mixed it well with the cornstarch and sugar, then added, gradually, the sour milk. these she cooked until a little of the syrup tried in cold water formed a soft ball. removing from the fire, betsey beat the fudge until it began to sugar, then she added the butter and chopped nuts. betsey learned that the longer you beat this fudge the more creamy it became and it gave a high gloss when cold. of course it was poured into a buttered pan and marked in squares as usual. brown sugar nougat or pinoche sugar (brown), 2-2/3 cups milk, 3/4 cup butter, size of a walnut flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon walnut meats (broken), 1/2 cup the sugar and milk betsey cooked until a little of the syrup tried in cold water formed a soft ball, then standing the saucepan in cold water she added the butter, walnut meats and vanilla, beat till it was thick like heavy cream, poured quickly into a buttered pan and marked in squares. this was the candy that betsey's father liked best of all, and no matter how many other delicious confections betsey placed before him, as she did from time to time, that he might test the result of her earnest endeavors, he still persisted in preferring "brown sugar nougat." he even insisted in preferring the old name though, as betsey told him, "pinoche" was more "up to date." betsey liked this recipe very much herself, and even more so when she added two tablespoons of the marshmallow cream, but as father liked it best without the cream she usually made it plain. mother thought she had lost a pet recipe until one day she came upon it unexpectedly. this was it. vassar divinity fudge sugar (granulated), 3 cups maple syrup, 1 cup water, 1-1/2 cups vinegar, 1 tablespoon walnut meats, 2 cups whites of 2 eggs (beaten stiffly) flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon for this betsey needed two saucepans. in one she put _two_ cups of sugar, _one_ cup of water, the maple syrup and vinegar, boiled these until they formed a soft ball in cold water, then removed from fire. in the second pan she had boiling the other cup of sugar and the half cup of water; when they had boiled so that the syrup formed a thread from the tip of the spoon she poured it at once on the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs, beating continually, added _quickly_ all this to the first mixture, stirred in the nuts and vanilla, beat until it was like cream and poured in buttered pan. sometimes betsey packed it in a deep, well buttered loaf pan and sliced like cake. chapter iv caramels one friday afternoon, as mother was sitting at the window engaged in her sewing, betsey bobbed in and exclaimed: "mother, i want to make caramels!" "right now?" asked mother, looking up from her sewing with a quizzical smile. "well, no, not just now," replied betsey, "but i really would like to make caramels." just why betsey wanted to make caramels puzzled mother, until betsey told her of the delicious caramels dorothy's uncle sent her for a birthday remembrance and which she had shared with her little friend. "they were wonderful!" sighed betsey. mother looked at her daughter's wistful little face and said: "to-morrow, dear, i will start you on caramels, and i hope they will be just as 'wonderful' as the ones you had to-day; at least some of them." so here are the different caramels that betsey made, and some of them betsey agreed were quite as "wonderful" as dorothy's birthday candy. vanilla corn syrup caramels sugar (granulated), 1 cup corn syrup, 1 cup water, 1/4 cup vinegar, 1/4 cup butter, 2 tablespoons flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon after betsey put the sugar, corn syrup, water and vinegar in the saucepan she let them boil six minutes before adding the butter, then let them continue to boil until they formed a soft ball when tried in cold water. taking the candy from the fire, she stirred in the vanilla and sometimes one half cup of candied cherries cut in halves, reheated the candy, then turned into a buttered pan. when the candy was cool betsey marked it in squares but did not cut it until it was quite cold. she used a firm, sharp knife, then wrapped each caramel in waxed paper. plain vanilla caramels sugar (granulated), 3 cups condensed milk, 1 cup water, 1 cup butter, size of an egg cream of tartar, 1/2 teaspoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon mother told betsey she had heard that condensed milk was considered by some expert candy makers to give better results in caramels than cream. to the condensed milk betsey added the water and mixed thoroughly, then added the sugar. she let these boil, then added the butter and cream of tartar and continued the boiling until a little of the syrup, dropped in cold water, cracked between her thumb and finger. it was then ready to take from the fire, add vanilla, pour in buttered pan, mark in squares when cool, cut with sharp knife when cold and wrap in waxed paper. rich walnut caramels sugar (granulated), 2 cups corn syrup, 1-3/4 cups cream, 2 cups butter, 1 cup flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon walnut meats cut in pieces, 1 cup when the sugar, syrup, _one_ cup of cream and butter reached the boiling point betsey added the other cup of cream a little at a time so that the candy did not once stop boiling. after trying it in cold water, and it formed a firm ball between her thumb and finger, she added the vanilla and nuts, turned it into a buttered pan, marked into squares when cool, cut with a sharp knife when cold and wrapped in waxed paper. betsey found that these took a long, long while to make, nearly an hour, but my! weren't they worth it when she popped one into her mouth! plain chocolate caramels chocolate, 4 squares sugar (brown), 1 cup corn syrup, 1 cup milk, 1 cup butter, 1 heaping tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon betsey let the chocolate, sugar, syrup and milk boil until they formed a hard ball in cold water, added the butter just before removing from the fire, then the vanilla, and poured into buttered pan, marked in squares when sufficiently cool, cut with a sharp knife when cold and wrapped in waxed paper. chocolate nut caramels chocolate, 4 squares sugar (brown), 1 cup corn syrup, 1 cup milk, 1 cup butter, 1 heaping tablespoon flavoring (vanilla), 1 teaspoon walnut meats (cut in pieces), 1 cup as soon as the chocolate, sugar, corn syrup and milk had cooked long enough so that a little tried in cold water formed a hard ball, betsey added the butter to the mixture before removing from the fire. when she removed the saucepan she added the vanilla and nuts, poured into a buttered pan, marked in squares when sufficiently cool, cut with a sharp knife when cold and wrapped in waxed paper. betsey found that all candies worth eating took time, patience and care to make, yet she never seemed to tire of making them. her enthusiasm was just as fresh at each lesson and mother felt well repaid for her time and trouble. to be sure, betsey had some failures, as most little girls do, but she was never discouraged and kept on practising until she had mastered every recipe. chapter v cream candies--uncooked the candies that were made without cooking were a constant source of delight, for betsey learned so many different ways of combining them. foundation cream white of 1 egg same amount of liquid. sugar (confectioner's), 1 pound flavoring. betsey put the white of the egg in the glass measuring cup, noticed carefully just how much it measured and then added the same amount of water, next she flavored it with a few drops of vanilla or almond or peppermint or strong coffee or fruit syrup of any kind, and mixed well. the confectioner's sugar she thoroughly sifted through a hair wire strainer, then added a little of the liquid mixture at a time until the cream was sufficiently flexible to be molded with the fingers. this was then put in a covered bowl and set away in a cool place for twenty-four hours to harden. when this was ready to use betsey made-almond creams foundation cream. blanched almonds. first betsey shelled the almonds, then blanched them by covering with boiling water for about a minute (this made it very easy to slip off the brown skins), next she split them in two. taking some of the cream, she molded it into balls, pressed flat and put half an almond on each side. pecan creams foundation cream. pecans (in halves). betsey's mother bought the pecans already shelled, as it was almost impossible to shell them without breaking them. taking some of the cream, she molded it into balls, pressed flat and put half a pecan on each side. walnut creams foundation cream. half walnuts. the cream she molded into small balls, pressed flat and put half a walnut on each side of the cream. another time betsey tried-cherry creams foundation cream. candied cherries and angelica. betsey cut the cherries lengthwise in two, shaped the cream into small balls and pressed half a cherry on each side. the angelica she cut into strips to form stalks, then stuck a cherry on each. sometimes she simply put the cherry inside the cream balls. * * * * * the pretty combination that follows was called-neapolitan cream squares foundation cream. vanilla flavoring and color pastes. betsey's mother had a large marble slab which she used for rolling out pastry, and this slab betsey sprinkled with confectioner's sugar that had been thoroughly sifted. to the cream she added a few drops of vanilla and kneaded it in thoroughly. this she divided into five portions, leaving one white and coloring the others pink, green, yellow and chocolate. (mother always bought the best flavorings and the same concern which made these also had color pastes which were pure and harmless and made according to government regulations, so mother bought some for betsey with directions for using.) betsey rolled out each portion alike, placed one on top of another, pressed the rolling-pin lightly over them and cut in half-inch squares with a sharp knife, then placed on waxed paper to dry. chocolate cream peppermints white of 1 egg water, 1 tablespoon oil of peppermint, 4 drops sugar (confectioner's). chocolate, 3 squares betsey mixed the egg white, water and oil of peppermint drops in a bowl and added as much sifted confectioner's sugar as it would absorb. the board she sprinkled well with the sugar, then rolled out the mixture to one fourth inch in thickness, and cut out with a small round cutter. while she was busy with this the chocolate had melted; this she had placed in a good-sized breakfast cup, and the cup in a small shallow pan of hot water on the back of the stove. now betsey took two silver forks and dipped each round of cream in the chocolate, carefully draining each one before placing on waxed paper. sometimes she needed to melt a little more chocolate, as the eggs varied in size and so made more or less accordingly. * * * * * one of betsey's schoolmates gave her a recipe for lemon and orange creams that her mother often made, so betsey tried these. lemon creams lemon, one tartaric acid, a pinch sugar (confectioner's). first betsey grated the rind of the lemon into a bowl, then added the lemon juice (strained), the pinch of tartaric acid and sufficient sifted confectioner's sugar to mold into small balls which she flattened into cakes. these she covered with waxed paper and put in a cool place and they were ready the next day to eat. orange creams orange, one tartaric acid, a pinch sugar (confectioner's). as for "lemon creams," betsey grated the rind of the orange into a bowl, added the strained orange juice, a pinch of tartaric acid and sufficient sifted confectioner's sugar to mold into small balls, which she flattened into cakes. sometimes betsey put a half cup of walnut meats or pecan meats through the meat chopper and molded them into the cream. then she covered with waxed paper, put in a cool place and they were ready the next day to eat. she also added the nuts to the "lemon creams" when she wanted a change. chapter vi stuffed dainties one day betsey's mother bought her a pound of nice fresh marshmallows to make stuffed marshmallow dainties fresh marshmallows, 1 pound preserved ginger, or candied cherries, or candied pineapple, or pieces of figs, or pieces of raisins, or pieces of dates, or walnut meats, or pecan meats, or blanched almonds, or butternut meats, or brazil nuts, or pieces of uncooked or cooked foundation cream. betsey found these were very easy to prepare and most delicious. all she had to do was to cut the marshmallows in two, with the scissors, horizontally,--they look better this way when stuffed (betsey learned in school about horizontal lines, so that she knew just what mother meant),--then place a piece of ginger or a candied cherry or a piece of candied pineapple or a piece of fig or raisin or date or part of a walnut, pecan, almond, butternut or brazil nut, or small flat balls of the uncooked or cooked foundation cream on the bottom portion of the marshmallow and then press the top piece over it. fruit paste dates (stoned), 1 pound raisins (seeded), 1 pound figs, 1 pound candied cherries, 1 pound nut meats, 2 cups all these betsey put through the meat chopper twice, next she put the mixture on the board and kneaded it well with sifted confectioner's sugar until she could roll it out to one half inch in thickness, then she cut in pieces and dipped them in granulated sugar. mother also showed betsey how to stuff raisins and dates, and betsey found mother's little sharp-pointed kitchen knife to be just the thing for this kind of work. stuffed raisins with walnuts large fancy table raisins. walnut meats. powdered sugar. betsey slit the raisins down one side carefully, removed the seeds and pressed in a piece of walnut cut just the right size, then pressed the slit together and rolled in powdered sugar. stuffed raisins with pecans large fancy table raisins. pecan meats. powdered sugar. slitting the raisins carefully on one side with a sharp-pointed knife, betsey removed the seeds, pressed in a piece of pecan meat, squeezed the opening together, then rolled in powdered sugar. stuffed raisins with almonds large fancy table raisins. blanched almonds. powdered sugar. after betsey had prepared the raisins by slitting one side carefully and removing the seeds, she blanched the almonds she had shelled by covering with boiling water. letting them stand about a minute, then draining off the water, she removed the brown skins easily. the raisins were not always large enough to hold a whole almond so she cut the nut to fit it, then pressed the opening together and rolled in powdered sugar. stuffed raisins with peanuts large fancy table raisins. peanuts (shelled). powdered sugar. betsey made a slit in each raisin, carefully, with a sharp knife, removed the seeds and pressed in a peanut. after pressing the opening together she rolled the raisin in powdered sugar. stuffed raisins with foundation cream large fancy table raisins. foundation cream. powdered sugar. betsey had the foundation cream all made (see page 92). she prepared the raisins as usual (slitting carefully on one side and removing the seeds), then made the cream into small balls and pressed into the opening, which she closed. next she rolled each raisin in powdered sugar. stuffed dates with walnuts best fancy dates. walnut meats. powdered sugar. betsey found that these did not take nearly as long to prepare as the raisins. with a sharp knife she cut one side of the date, removed the long stone, filled it with a piece of walnut the right size, then pressed and rolled in powdered sugar. stuffed dates with pecans best fancy dates. pecan meats. powdered sugar. making an opening into each date with a sharp knife, betsey removed the stone and filled with a piece of pecan meat to fit, and rolled in powdered sugar. stuffed dates with almonds best fancy dates. blanched almonds. powdered sugar. it was a quick job for betsey to prepare the dates by cutting an opening and removing the long stone, but the almonds took longer. these she shelled, covered with boiling water a minute, drained them and removed the brown skins. in each date she pressed an almond, then rolled in powdered sugar. stuffed dates with peanuts best fancy dates. peanuts (shelled). powdered sugar. after betsey shelled the peanuts she removed the long stone from each date by cutting an opening with a sharp knife, then she filled each one with a peanut and rolled it in powdered sugar. stuffed dates with foundation cream best fancy dates. foundation cream. powdered sugar. taking the foundation cream from the refrigerator, where she had kept it since making the day before (see page 92 for recipe), betsey made it into small balls. these she pressed into the openings of the dates which she had cut and from which the large stones had been removed, then she rolled them in powdered sugar. stuffed figs with walnuts small fancy figs. walnut meats. powdered sugar. this was the only kind of stuffed figs that betsey and mother liked. the figs were prepared by removing the stem and cutting carefully down the side, then they were pulled apart and a _whole_ walnut inserted. next they were pressed together and lightly dusted with powdered sugar. * * * * * betsey called these her "convenient sweets" because, as mother said, you could make the stuffed fruits at any time: winter, summer, spring or fall. betsey's grandmother was keenly interested in everything her little granddaughter undertook, and this was especially true of the candy-making. grandmother admitted that she had a "sweet tooth," and betsey often surprised her with delicious dainties. betsey learned that grandmother was particularly fond of "stuffed fruits," and a few days before her birthday betsey prepared some of each kind, arranged them attractively in a large box, and on the morning of the eventful day gave them to a delighted grandmother. grandmother was very much pleased with the pretty box and its "sweet contents." she called betsey's gift, "the sweet surprise," because, as she said, "i never know just what each dainty contains until i begin to eat it, and, therefore, i am always being surprised." chapter vii cream candies--cooked betsey wanted to learn how to make the cooked foundation cream, or fondant as it was called, and mother gladly taught her. fondant--plain sugar (granulated), 3 cups cream of tartar, 1/4 teaspoon water (hot), 3/4 cup vanilla, 1/2 teaspoon the sugar, cream of tartar and water betsey stirred thoroughly in the saucepan and let it slowly come to the boiling point, then she stopped stirring. after the syrup had been boiling a few minutes the sugar began to stick to the sides of the saucepan, but betsey's mother took a piece of soft muslin, dipped it in cold water and showed betsey just how to wash it carefully off so that not one grain, even, should fall into the syrup. then when betsey tried the syrup by dropping a little in cold water she was very, _very_ careful not to stir it. when it formed a soft ball it was ready to be taken off, and then mother told betsey to add the vanilla and pour the syrup _slowly_ on a large platter. as soon as it was cool enough to handle betsey began to knead it and work the cream until it was beautifully smooth, then she wrapped it in waxed paper, put in a covered bowl, in a cool place, for twenty-four hours. it was then ready to make into candies just as she did with the uncooked foundation cream on page 92. chocolate fondant sugar (granulated), 3 cups cream of tartar, 1/4 teaspoon water (hot), 3/4 cup chocolate, 2 squares flavoring (vanilla), 1/2 teaspoon putting the sugar, cream of tartar, water and chocolate into the saucepan, betsey stirred them well together, then let slowly come to the boiling point. after this she stopped stirring. when the syrup had been boiling a minute or two and sugar began to stick to the sides of the saucepan, betsey took a piece of soft muslin, dipped it in cold water and very carefully wiped off _every_ grain, as mother had taught her. even when betsey tried the syrup in cold water she took particular pains not to stir it; when it reached the soft ball stage she removed the saucepan from the fire, added the vanilla and poured slowly on to a large platter. this she let cool, sufficiently to handle, then kneaded and worked the cream until it was very smooth. next she wrapped it in waxed paper, put in a covered bowl in a cool place for twenty-four hours, when it was ready to use for making candies. coffee fondant sugar (granulated), 3 cups cream of tartar, 1/4 teaspoon strong coffee (hot and strained), 3/4 cup betsey strained the coffee through a double thickness of cheesecloth, added the sugar and cream of tartar and let them slowly come to the boiling point; when the syrup had been boiling a few minutes the sugar began to stick to the sides of the saucepan. as this had to be removed very carefully so that not even a grain should fall back into the syrup betsey took a soft piece of muslin, dipped it in cold water and with great care removed every bit. even when she tried the syrup to see if it had reached the soft ball stage betsey was very particular not to stir it. when the candy was cooked betsey poured it slowly into a large smooth platter, waited until it was cool enough to handle, then kneaded the cream until it was very smooth. wrapping the fondant in waxed paper, betsey put it in a covered bowl in a cool place for twenty-four hours. it was then ready to make into candies. maple sugar fondant maple sugar (broken small), 2 cups sugar (granulated), 1 cup cream of tartar, 1/4 teaspoon water (hot), 1 cup the maple sugar, granulated sugar, cream of tartar and hot water were all stirred well until they began to boil, then betsey had to watch carefully, for sugar began to stick to the sides of the saucepan. this she had to remove, which she did by following mother's careful instructions. she was very particular not to let one grain fall into the syrup and when she tried the syrup to see if it would form a soft ball if a little were dropped in cold water she took care not to stir it. then pouring slowly on to a large platter, betsey let it cool until she could handle the cream, when she kneaded it till it was very smooth. the fondant was wrapped in waxed paper, put in a covered bowl in a cool place for twenty-four hours and then made into candies. corn syrup fondant sugar (granulated), 1-1/2 cups corn syrup, 1/2 cup cream of tartar, 1/4 teaspoon water (hot), 1/3 cup betsey put all the ingredients in the saucepan and let them come to the boiling point, stirring all the while, then she stopped stirring. after the syrup had boiled a few minutes, betsey noticed that the sugar began to stick to the sides of the saucepan. so taking a piece of soft muslin she dipped it in cold water and wiped all this sugar away so carefully that not a grain fell in the syrup. when betsey tried a little of the candy in cold water she was again careful not to stir the syrup, and as soon as it reached the soft ball stage she removed the saucepan from the fire and poured the candy slowly into a large platter. then when it was cool enough to handle betsey kneaded till it was very smooth and creamy, wrapped in waxed paper, and put in a covered bowl in a cool place for twenty-four hours. betsey found that the cooked fondant would keep a long while and she liked to have some on hand so that she could make a dish of dainty candies at any time. the following are some of the candies made with the different flavored fondants. plain fondant almond creams plain fondant pecan creams plain fondant walnut creams plain fondant cherry creams in each case betsey made the small balls of the plain fondant, then pressed half an almond on each side, or half a pecan, or half a walnut or half of a candied cherry. sometimes she put the nut or cherry inside and wrapped the fondant around it. with the chocolate fondant she followed the same idea, making chocolate fondant almond creams chocolate fondant pecan creams chocolate fondant walnut creams chocolate fondant cherry creams with the coffee fondant she made coffee fondant almond creams coffee fondant pecan creams coffee fondant walnut creams coffee fondant cherry creams with the maple sugar fondant she made maple sugar fondant almond creams maple sugar fondant pecan creams maple sugar fondant walnut creams maple sugar fondant cherry creams it was with the plain fondant that betsey could make the greatest variety of candies. every combination that she had made with the uncooked foundation cream (see pages 92-94) betsey made with the plain fondant. when she had made neapolitan cream squares (see page 95) betsey's mother had bought some of the color pastes which came from an old established firm, were quite pure and harmless, and made according to government regulations. so betsey had these to use, and again she used the pretty harmless colorings as told on page 95. these color pastes last for a very long time, since very small quantities are used, just a drop or two being sufficient. before betsey finished her lessons in candy making, especially when she made the fondants, mother's stock of flavorings had very much increased, for betsey used vanilla, orange, lemon, almond, oil of peppermint, wintergreen, violet, rose and peach. in fact betsey became such a little expert in her candy making that betsey's father said it seemed a foolish waste of money for him to buy the usual box of saturday candy when he much preferred his own little daughter's concoctions. mother thought this too good an opportunity to let pass and suggested that he give the amount he usually spent each week to betsey, and leave his order with her. father was glad to agree and betsey was delighted and proud to think he thought her capable enough. this enabled betsey to form a general supply fund with which to purchase extras in the way of different kinds of nuts, candied cherries, dates, figs, raisins, etc. cinnamon cream balls plain fondant. ground cinnamon. betsey made the fondant into small balls, then rolled them lightly in the cinnamon. she was careful not to have very much as it made the cinnamon taste too strong. sometimes she would put a candied cherry inside the cream ball, or a piece of a walnut, or pecan or almond. cocoa cream balls plain fondant. cocoa. these betsey made like the cinnamon cream balls by forming the fondant into small balls and rolling in cocoa or first putting a piece of any kind of nut or candied cherry inside the cream. cream mints plain fondant. color pastes. the plain fondant she divided into as many portions as she desired colors or flavors. after coloring and flavoring to her liking she rolled them out on mother's marble slab until they were about a quarter of an inch thick--of course she first sprinkled the slab with sifted powdered sugar--then with a little round cutter betsey would cut out the mints and place on waxed paper to dry. sometimes she would use the different nuts, candied cherries, etc., with these by placing a piece on the top of each round. cream chocolate mints chocolate fondant, page 108. cream coffee mints coffee fondant, page 109. cream maple sugar mints maple sugar fondant, page 110. cream corn syrup mints corn syrup fondant, page 111. betsey made all of the different kinds of fondants into mints by simply rolling a portion of each to one fourth inch in thickness, then cutting them out with her little round cutter. when she wanted them to be extra nice she added the candied cherries or any kind of nut by placing a piece on top. * * * * * betsey enjoyed celebrating any and every occasion. the days devoted to st. valentine and st. patrick were hailed with delight. for these gala days betsey found the "cream mints" to be the very best candies to make. a tiny heart-shaped cutter, and another cutter in the shape of a shamrock, mother found one day while shopping and these she brought home to betsey. you may be sure that betsey "bobbed" more than ever when mother gave them to her. on st. valentine's day betsey remembered each member of the family, also each of her little friends, with a "sweetheart" for a valentine. these she made from the "cream mints" of different colors and cut with the heart-shaped cutter. the little cutter in the shape of the shamrock betsey used on st. patrick's day to cut the "cream mints," which she colored a pretty green. bon bons fondant of any kind. color pastes. flavorings. nuts, candied cherries, etc., etc. here was another way in which betsey used the fondants. one portion of plain fondant she put on one side while the remainder was divided into as many different portions as she desired different colors or flavors. when these were shaped into balls, some plain and some with pieces of nuts or candied cherries inside, she placed them on waxed paper while she put the other portions of fondant in the small double boiler over hot water to melt. betsey did not let the fondant get hot, but _just warm_, then taking the candies she had prepared she dipped each one carefully into the melted fondant (using two silver forks) and re-placed on the waxed paper to dry. in the same manner betsey used the "chocolate fondant," the "coffee fondant," the "maple sugar fondant" and the "corn syrup fondant." chocolate creams fondant of any kind. color pastes. flavorings. nuts, candied cherries, etc., etc. chocolate. sometimes betsey liked the chocolate in which she dipped her creams left unsweetened, then again she would add a little of the plain fondant to the melted chocolate to take away the bitter taste. betsey melted the chocolate by placing it in the double boiler over hot water. the number of squares she melted depended upon the number of creams she intended dipping. usually she started by melting two squares. the creams she prepared exactly as she did for "bon bons," coloring and flavoring as her fancy dictated, shaping into balls with or without the addition of nuts and candied fruits. with two silver forks betsey found she could handle the creams nicely, drain off all the extra chocolate and place on waxed paper to dry. chocolate cream mints fondant of any kind. color pastes. flavorings. nuts, candied cherries, etc., etc. chocolate. these betsey made like the plain cream mints and other cream mints. she rolled out the fondant so that it was about a quarter of an inch in thickness, cut with the little round cutter, then dipped each round in the melted chocolate, with two silver forks, drained off as much chocolate as possible, then placed on waxed paper to dry. one of the neighbors, hearing of betsey's candy making lessons, sent over a recipe for "cocoanut cakes," and while they were not exactly candy, betsey tried them and found them to be delicious. cocoanut cakes cocoanut (grated), 1/2 pound sugar (granulated), 1/2 cup whites of 2 large or 3 small eggs flavoring (vanilla), 1/2 teaspoon betsey beat the egg whites until very stiff, added the sugar and vanilla, then stirred in the cocoanut gradually. mother had a large tin sheet upon which betsey placed waxed paper. taking a teaspoon she dropped a spoonful of the mixture at a time, shaping each cake with the spoon to a point at the top, then baked in a moderate oven until they were a golden brown. this made about three dozen tiny cocoanut cakes. it happened to be along the latter part of march when betsey was making the "cocoanut cakes" and her "dearest friend" dorothy was helping too. just as betsey was taking the large tin sheet full from the oven, the door-bell rang. mother had a caller, and as she came in, she exclaimed, "my, what is it that smells _so good_!" mother, with a twinkle in her eye, escorted her caller to the kitchen, where betsey and dorothy, all flushed and excited, were in the act of piling the cocoanut cakes on a pretty dish covered with a piece of waxed paper. mother's caller could hardly believe it was possible for little girls of such tender years to be capable of making the delicious confections. when she was told of the many kinds that they really and truly could make, she remarked, "well, i certainly have come to just the right place." then mother's caller explained that she belonged to a patriotic society that was planning to have a sale in a few weeks. if betsey and dorothy would make her some candy she would be very grateful. the little girls were only too delighted and mother promised to furnish the materials if they would do the work. to this they readily agreed and many happy, busy spare moments they spent in preparing for (to them) the great occasion. it would take too long to tell you about the different candies they made, but every bit was sold, and when, one morning, they received a _written_ "vote of thanks" from the patriotic society, betsey and dorothy felt fully repaid for all their efforts. chapter viii salted nuts one day betsey said, "mother, i should like to know how to prepare salted peanuts and salted almonds," and, as usual, mother was glad to comply with her request and teach her. salted peanuts peanuts (shelled), 1 cup butter, or olive oil. salt. betsey bought the peanuts that were not cooked. these she shelled, then covered with boiling water for a minute or two. draining off the water, she removed the little brown skins easily. using a shallow cake tin, betsey poured in a little olive oil (for those who do not like olive oil, a small piece of butter may be used), added the peanuts, put in a hot oven and cooked to a light golden brown. when done she emptied the peanuts on to a piece of brown paper (this soaked up the extra oil or butter) and sprinkled lightly with salt. salted almonds almonds (shelled), 1 cup butter, or olive oil. salt. these betsey blanched as she did the peanuts by pouring boiling water over the almonds for at least a minute. draining off the water, she was able to remove the brown skins very easily. the almonds were then placed in a shallow pan in which a little olive oil or butter had been melted, then baked in a hot oven to a light golden brown. betsey needed to watch these constantly and shake the tin occasionally that the almonds might be evenly browned. the next step was to pour them on brown paper and sprinkle lightly with salt. the brown paper soaked up all the extra oil or butter and made them much nicer. * * * * * next betsey tried glacã© nuts and fruits sugar (granulated), 1 cup corn syrup, 1 cup water, 1/3 cup walnut meats. pecan meats. butternut meats. brazil nuts. filberts. almonds. peanuts. white grapes. raisins. pieces of orange. pieces of grapefruit. prunes. the sugar, corn syrup and water betsey boiled until the syrup became brittle the minute she dropped a little in cold water. lifting the saucepan from the fire, she placed it in a larger pan of cold water to stop the boiling immediately, then she placed it in another pan of hot water and dipped the nuts and fruits one at a time. betsey used a long hat pin to pick them out with, then placed on buttered plates or waxed paper. these were always made in cold weather and eaten while crisp. if they were kept any length of time they became sticky. this, however, never happened in betsey's home, for they went too quickly. * * * * * it took betsey a long time, months in fact, to learn all these different ways of making candy, but she was so earnest in her work that the results were better than many "grown ups" obtained. mother felt fully repaid for the time and care it had required to teach betsey and father was a much "puffed up" man. he never failed to tell any guests that might be present when a dish of the home made confections were being passed that "betsey made these" and his pride and pleasure were doubly increased when they invariably exclaimed, "impossible! surely a little girl so young as betsey could never have made them." naturally, betsey felt glad to have these nice things said about her candies, and mother felt still more glad that in spite of all praise betsey was not spoiled. chapter ix betsey's party when betsey learned to make cherry creams (on page 94) she said, "mother, do you suppose i could have a washington's birthday party? i could make such pretty things with these cherries." and mother was so pleased with her little pupil that of course she said "yes." so betsey invited five of her little friends: dorothy, her very special friend, and christina, isabella, amy and adelaide, making six in all, counting herself. it was to be very simple; mother made the cake and ice cream and peanut butter sandwiches, while betsey made the candies. for some days before, betsey was very busy making little paper hatchets for favors. on each of these she wrote one of her little friends' names. she made a number of cherry creams like those on page 94 with the angelica, and on the day of the party she tied three cherries to the handle of each hatchet with narrow red, white and blue ribbon. mother made a delicious cake in the large angel cake tin and covered it with a thick white frosting; before it hardened betsey pressed half cherries here and there all over it. then betsey had secured a piece of a fir tree and placed it in the centre of the cake. on this she hung little bunches of cherries. it made a most attractive decoration for the centre of the table. betsey also made "brown sugar nougat" or "pinoche" with nuts (see page 83) and "chocolate fudge with marshmallow cream" as on page 58; she also had a dish of the cherry creams on the table. the six little girls had a very happy time, but they did wish they could learn how to make candies, too, so betsey's mother wrote this little book in order that other little girls might learn the easiest and best ways of making candies. the end. appendix recipes endorsed by the united states food administration chocolate dainties put through the meat chopper one-half cup each of dates, figs, and nut meats. add one tablespoon orange juice, a little grated orange peel, and one square of melted unsweetened chocolate. mold into balls and roll in chopped nuts or granulated sugar. this mixture may be packed in an oiled tin, put under a weight until firm, then cut in any shape desired. old-fashioned molasses candy no. 1 boil down molasses until it reaches the hard crack stage. pour on oiled plates and cool. oil the hands and pull portions of the candy until it becomes light colored. old-fashioned molasses candy no. 2 molasses, 2 cups (1 pint) vinegar, 1 tablespoon butter substitute, 2 tablespoons (1 ounce) baking powder, 1/2 level teaspoon vanilla or ginger extract, 1 teaspoon put molasses, vinegar and butter into a saucepan. bring to a boiling point, and boil, stirring all the time until the mixture is brittle when dropped into cold water. stir in baking powder and extract and pour into a buttered tin. when nearly cold pull until glossy. cut into small pieces and lay on a buttered plate or wrap in wax paper. sufficient for one pound of candy. popcorn candy syrup, 1 cup vinegar, 1 tablespoon popped corn, 2 or 3 quarts boil together the syrup and vinegar until syrup hardens when dropped in cold water. pour over freshly popped corn and mold into balls or fancy shapes for the christmas tree. little popcorn men will please the children. mark in the features and outlines with melted chocolate. either honey, maple syrup, molasses, white cane syrup or corn syrup may be used. crystallized fruits use your own preserves. peach, pear, apple, quince or watermelon rind will do. drain from the fruit all syrup possible. cut any size desired, sprinkle with sugar, and dry in the warmer or a very slow oven. it may be necessary to sprinkle the fruit again with sugar during the drying. when dry enough not to be at all sticky, sprinkle with sugar and pack in layers with wax papers between. this fruit may be used for dipping in bitter chocolate for bitter-sweets. fruit paste put through the meat chopper enough cherry, peach, or quince preserves to make a half-pint with the juice. heat fruit and add two tablespoons of gelatine, previously softened in a very little cold water. stir well, and continue stirring until it begins to cool and thicken, then pour into oiled dish to make a layer one inch thick. let dry slowly, sprinkle with sugar and place in box with wax paper between the layers. a mixture of dried apricots and dates may be used for this paste. wash apricots and soak over night in enough water to cover. pour off water, bring it to a boil, pour over apricots, and let stand until cool. put apricots and dates through meat chopper and proceed with the proportions as given. fruit butter chop together equal parts of stoned raisins, dates and figs and add (after weighing) nuts equal in weight to the whole. the nuts may be mixed according to convenience and taste, as one part of black and white walnuts, pecans, almonds, peanuts, hazel or brazil nuts. in general nuts grown in the locality should be used. mix thoroughly and pack in a mold for slicing. bitter-sweets an attractive variety of candies may be made by dipping sweet fruits in bitter chocolate. use for this purpose dates, citron, candied orange peel or crystallized fruits. melt unsweetened chocolate in a double boiler. keep the chocolate just warm enough to prevent solidifying. with a silver fork drop pieces of fruit in chocolate. see that each piece is completely coated, then remove to wax paper to harden. maple sugar candy soft maple sugar, 1 pound top milk, 3/4 cup boiling water, 1/4 cup nut meats cut in pieces, 2/3 cup boil together until soft ball forms in water. remove from fire, beat until creamy, add nut meats and pour into greased tin. cool slightly, mark into squares. quick nougatines marshmallows, 1 cup almond paste, 1/2 cup nuts, 1/4 cup candied cherries, 1/4 cup put marshmallows and almond paste in double boiler and stir until melted and well blended. add nuts and cherries cut in small pieces and spread half an inch thick on a pan or slab sprinkled with confectioner's sugar. when firm, cut in bars 1-1/2 inches long and 1/2 inch wide. if desired, dip in melted chocolate. substitutes for christmas candies "what would christmas be without christmas candies!" can't you hear that wail going up from children all over the land? and from many a grown-up, too. a christmas shorn of all its sweets isn't necessary at all. but with a little forethought and some substitutes in the way of fruit and nut sweetmeats, we can do much to lessen the pull on sugar at just this time. a decrease in our annual christmas candy consumption of, say, even one-tenth (and that isn't asking very much of the "home fighter"), when multiplied by 100,000,000 of us will provide much energy-giving food to our army boys and our needy allies. and what more acceptable christmas gift could we make to those "over there?" remember this when you are planning for their christmas and your own. it is splendid to make comfort kits and pack hampers of gifts for the soldier-boys, but saving the sugar used to make your christmas candies and in your own home is not only making them a christmas gift but is putting punch into the right arm of your country's defenders. and their right arm is of more importance just now than your sweet tooth. there are all sorts of substitutes such as stuffed dates, candied ginger, fruit pastes and salted nuts. not only dates, but prunes, stuffed, are delicious. wash them thoroughly, take out the seed and slip in a big, fat, sweet almond, and see how eagerly the children eat it. it is a food as well as a sweetmeat. dried fruits like dates, figs, prunes and raisins have not only sugar but are highly nourishing. raisins with nuts will delight any child and if given with moderation will not prove indigestible. a combination of dates, figs and english walnuts, run through a grinder, softened with lemon juice, and cut into cakes like caramels, makes both a wholesome and a toothsome substitute for candy. use more home salted nuts this christmas than in previous years. peanuts, pecans or almonds, if prepared in olive oil, will not go begging. to candy orange or grape-fruit peel means the use of some sugar, it is true, but less than for its equivalent in candy, and you are using up what would otherwise be thrown away. a wider use of maple sugar as a sweet this fall and winter will be a helpful conservation measure. every one with even one maple tree in his yard should tap it and boil his own syrup. every little bit helps. any of these substitutes, if arranged in fancy box or dainty basket, will serve the same purpose as candy for gifts; left on table or tabourette they will give the same festive christmas air and fill the munching needs of a holiday gathering; and best of all, their use will insure more sugar and therefore more power to those fighting our war. index page betsey's party, 129 caramels chocolate nut caramels, 90 plain chocolate caramels, 89 plain vanilla caramels, 88 rich walnut caramels, 88 vanilla corn syrup caramels, 87 cool weather candies betsey's orange cream candy, 22 brown sugar candy (pulled), 31 butter scotch, 16, 17, 18 butter taffy, 19 chocolate, 14 chocolate taffy, 27 cocoanut drops, 36 corn syrup, 14 cream of tartar candy, 26 lemon butternut candy, 32 lemon cream candy, 19 lemon cream taffy, 23 molasses candy, 28 molasses kisses, 30 orange butternut candy, 32 orange cream taffy, 25 peanut brittle, 34 peanut candy, 34 peanut molasses candy (not pulled), 28 peppermint cream candy, 21 plain peppermints, 35 rules for measuring and weighing, 14 sugar, brown, 14 sugar, confectioner's, 14 sugar, granulated, 14 sugar, powdered, 14 vanilla butternut candy, 33 vanilla cream candy, 20 vanilla cream taffy, 25 vinegar candy, 26 cream candies--cooked bon bons, 119 chocolate cream mints, 120 chocolate creams, 120 chocolate fondant, 108 chocolate fondant almond creams, 113 chocolate fondant cherry creams, 113 chocolate fondant pecan creams, 113 chocolate fondant walnut creams, 113 cinnamon cream balls, 115 cocoa cream balls, 116 cocoanut cakes, 121 coffee fondant, 109 coffee fondant almond creams, 113 coffee fondant cherry creams, 113 coffee fondant pecan creams, 113 coffee fondant walnut creams, 113 corn syrup fondant, 111 cream chocolate mints, 117 cream coffee mints, 117 cream corn syrup mints, 117 cream maple sugar mints, 117 cream mints, 116 maple sugar fondant, 110 maple sugar fondant almond creams, 114 maple sugar fondant cherry creams, 114 maple sugar fondant pecan creams, 114 maple sugar fondant walnut creams, 114 plain fondant, 107 plain fondant almond creams, 112 plain fondant cherry creams, 113 plain fondant pecan creams, 112 plain fondant walnut creams, 113 cream candies--uncooked almond creams, 93 cherry creams, 94 chocolate cream peppermints, 95 foundation cream, 92 lemon creams, 97 neapolitan cream squares, 95 orange creams, 97 pecan creams, 93 walnut creams, 94 fudge brown sugar nougat or pinoche, 83 chocolate almond fudge, 54 chocolate brown sugar almond fudge, 66 chocolate brown sugar date fudge, 68 chocolate brown sugar fig fudge, 67 chocolate brown sugar marshmallow fudge, 69 chocolate brown sugar peanut fudge, 66 chocolate brown sugar pecan fudge, 65 chocolate brown sugar raisin fudge, 69 chocolate brown sugar walnut fudge, 64 chocolate date fudge, 57 chocolate fig fudge, 56 chocolate fudge, 48 chocolate fudge with brown sugar, 50 chocolate fudge with molasses, 49 chocolate marshmallow fudge, 58 chocolate molasses almond fudge, 60 chocolate molasses date fudge, 64 chocolate molasses fig fudge, 63 chocolate molasses peanut fudge, 61 chocolate molasses pecan fudge, 60 chocolate molasses raisin fudge, 62 chocolate molasses walnut fudge, 59 chocolate peanut fudge, 55 chocolate pecan fudge, 53 chocolate raisin fudge, 55 chocolate walnut fudge, 52 cocoa almond fudge, 72 cocoa date fudge, 74 cocoa fig fudge, 73 cocoa marshmallow fudge, 76 cocoanut fudge, 48 cocoa peanut fudge, 72 cocoa pecan fudge, 71 cocoa raisin fudge, 75 cocoa walnut fudge, 70 coffee almond fudge, 78 coffee date fudge, 81 coffee fig fudge, 80 coffee marshmallow fudge, 81 coffee peanut fudge, 78 coffee pecan fudge, 77 coffee raisin fudge, 79 coffee walnut fudge, 76 fudge with cocoa, 50 fudge with coffee, 51 glacã© nuts and fruits, 126 sour milk fudge, 82 vassar divinity fudge, 84 popcorn goodies brown sugar popcorn candy, 39 chocolate frosted popcorn, 45 frosted popcorn, 43 hot buttered corn, 38 how to sugar popcorn, 42 maple sugar popcorn balls, 41 pink frosted popcorn, 43 popcorn balls, 41 popcorn candy, 40 red frosted popcorn, 44 salted nuts salted almonds, 125 salted peanuts, 124 stuffed dainties fruit paste, 100 stuffed dates with almonds, 104 stuffed dates with foundation cream, 105 stuffed dates with peanuts, 104 stuffed dates with pecans, 104 stuffed dates with walnuts, 103 stuffed figs with walnuts, 105 stuffed marshmallow dainties, 99 stuffed raisins with almonds, 102 stuffed raisins with foundation cream, 103 stuffed raisins with peanuts, 102 stuffed raisins with pecans, 101 stuffed raisins with walnuts, 101 united states food administration recipes bitter-sweets, 134 chocolate dainties, 131 christmas substitutes, 136 crystallized fruits, 133 fruit butter, 134 fruit paste, 133 maple sugar candy, 135 old-fashioned molasses candy, 131 popcorn candy, 132 quick nougatines, 135 * * * * * transcriber's notes: page 12, "or" changed to "for" (for when she really) this file was produced from images generously made available by the digital & multimedia center, michigan state university libraries. seventy-five receipts for pastry cakes, and sweetmeats by miss leslie, of philadelphia. 1832 preface. the following receipts for pastry, cakes, and sweetmeats, are original, and have been used by the author and many of her friends with uniform success. they are drawn up in a style so plain and minute, as to be perfectly intelligible to servants, and persons of the most moderate capacity. all the ingredients, with their proper quantities, are enumerated in a list at the head of each receipt, a plan which will greatly facilitate the business of procuring and preparing the requisite articles. there is frequently much difficulty in following directions in english and french cookery books, not only from their want of explicitness, but from the difference in the fuel, fire-places, and cooking utensils, generally used in europe and america; and many of the european receipts are, so complicated and laborious, that our female cooks are afraid to undertake the arduous task of making any thing from them. the receipts in this little book are, in every sense of the word, american; but the writer flatters herself that (if exactly followed) the articles produced from them will not be found inferior to any of a similar description made in the european manner. experience has proved, that pastry, cakes, &c. prepared _precisely_ according to these directions will not fail to be excellent: but where economy is expedient, a portion of the seasoning, that is, the spice, wine, brandy, rosewater, essence of lemon, &c. may be omitted without any essential deviation of flavour, or difference of appearance; retaining, however, the given proportions of eggs, butter, sugar, and flour. but if done at home, and by a person that can be trusted, it will be proved, on trial, that any of these articles may be made in the best and most liberal manner at _one half_ of the cost of the same articles supplied by a confectioner. and they will be found particularly useful to families that live in the country or in small towns, where nothing of the kind is to be purchased. contents. part the first. preliminary remarks puff paste common paste mince pies plum pudding lemon pudding orange pudding cocoa nut pudding almond pudding a cheesecake sweet potato pudding pumpkin pudding gooseberry pudding baked apple pudding fruit pies oyster pie beef steak pie indian pudding batter pudding bread pudding rice pudding boston pudding fritters fine custards plain custards rice custard cold custards curds and whey a trifle whipt cream floating island ice cream calf's feet jelly blanc-mange part the second general directions queen cake pound cake black cake, or plum cake sponge cake almond cake french almond cake maccaroons apees jumbles kisses spanish buns rusk indian pound cake cup cake loaf cake sugar biscuits milk biscuits butter biscuits gingerbread nuts common gingerbread la fayette gingerbread a dover cake crullers dough nuts waffles soft muffins indian batter cakes flannel cakes rolls part the third general directions apple jelly red currant jelly black currant jelly gooseberry jelly grape jelly peach jelly preserved quinces preserved pippins preserved peaches preserved crab-apples preserved plums preserved strawberries preserved cranberries preserved pumpkin preserved pine-apple raspberry jam appendix. miscellaneous receipts as all families are not provided with scales and weights, referring to the ingredients generally used in cakes and pastry, we subjoin a list of weights and measures. weight and measure wheat flour one pound is one quart. indian meal one pound, two ounces, is one quart. butter--when soft one pound is one quart. loaf-sugar, broken one pound is one quart. white sugar, powdered one pound, one ounce, is one quart. eggs ten eggs are one pound. liquid measure sixteen large table-spoonfuls are half a pint. eight large table-spoonfuls are one gill. four large table-spoonfuls are half a gill. a common-sized tumbler holds half a pint. a common-sized wine-glass half a gill. allowing for accidental differences in the quality, freshness, dryness, and moisture of the articles, we believe this comparison between weight and measure, to be nearly correct as possible. part the first. pastry the eggs should not be beaten till after all the other ingredients are ready, as they will fail very soon. if the whites and yolks are to be beaten separately, do the whites first, as they will stand longer. eggs should be beaten in a broad shallow pan, spreading wide at the top. butter and sugar should be stirred in a deep pan with straight sides. break every egg by itself, in a saucer, before you put it into the pan, that in case there should be any bad ones, they may not spoil the others. eggs are beaten most expeditiously with rods. a small quantity of white of egg may be beaten with a knife, or a three-pronged fork. there can be no positive rules as to the exact time of baking each article. skill in baking is the result of practice, attention, and experience. much, of course, depends on the state of the fire, and on the size of the things to be baked, and something on the thickness of the pans or dishes. if you bake in a stove, put some bricks in the oven part to set the pans or plates on, and to temper the heat at the bottom. large sheets of iron, without sides, will be found very useful for small cakes, and to put under the pans or plates. puff paste. half a pound and two ounces of sifted flour. half a pound of the best fresh butter--washed. a little cold water. _this will make puff-paste for two puddings, or for one soup-plate pie, or for four small shells_. weigh half a pound and two ounces of flour, and sift it through a hair-sieve into a large deep dish. take out about one fourth of the flour, and lay it aside on one corner of your pasteboard, to roll and sprinkle with. wash, in cold water, half a pound of the best fresh butter. squeeze it hard with your hands and make it up into a round lump. divide it in four equal parts; lay them on one side of your paste-board, and have ready a glass of cold water. cut one of the four pieces of butter into the pan of flour. cut it as small as possible. wet it gradually with a very little water (too much water will make it tough) and mix it well with the point of a large case-knife. do not touch it with your hands. when the dough gets into a lump, sprinkle on the middle of the board some of the flour that you laid aside, and lay the dough upon it, turning it out of the pan with the knife. rub the rolling-pin with flour, and sprinkle a little on the lump of paste. roll it out thin, quickly, and evenly, pressing on the rolling-pin very lightly. then take the second of the four pieces of butter, and, with the point of your knife, stick it in little bits at equal distances all over the sheet of paste. sprinkle on some flour, and fold up the dough. flour the paste-board and rolling-pin again; throw a little flour on the paste and roll it out a second time. stick the third piece of butter all over it in little bits. throw on some flour, fold up the paste, sprinkle a little more flour on the dough, and on the rolling-pin, and roll it out a third time, always pressing on it lightly. stick it over with the fourth and last piece of butter. throw on a little more flour, fold up the paste and then roll it out in a large round sheet. cut off the sides, so as to make the sheet of a square form, and lay the slips of dough upon the square sheet. fold it up with the small pieces of trimmings, in the inside. score or notch it a little with the knife; lay it on a plate and set it away in a cool place, but not where it can freeze, as that will make it heavy. having made the paste, prepare and mix your pudding or pie. when the mixture is finished, bring out your paste, flour the board and rolling-pin, and roll it out with a short quick stroke, and pressing the rolling-pin rather harder than while you were putting the butter in. if the paste rises in blisters, it will be light, unless spoiled in baking. then cut the sheet in half, fold up each piece and roll them out once more, separately, in round sheets the size of your plate. press on rather harder, but not too hard. roll the sheets thinnest in the middle and thickest at the edges. if intended for puddings, lay them in buttered soup-plates, and trim them evenly round the edges. if the edges do not appear thick enough, you may take the trimmings, put them all together, roll them out, and having cut them in slips the breadth of the rim of the plate, lay them all round to make the paste thicker at the edges, joining them nicely and evenly, as every patch or crack will appear distinctly when baked. notch the rim handsomely with a very sharp knife. fill the dish with the mixture of the pudding, and bake it in a moderate oven. the paste should be of a light brown colour. if the oven is too slow, it will be soft and clammy; if too quick, it will not have time to rise as high as it ought to do. in making the best puff-paste, try to avoid using more flour to sprinkle and roll with, than the small portion which you have laid aside for that purpose at the beginning. if you make the dough too soft at first, by using too much water, it will be sticky, and require more flour, and will eventually be tough when baked. do not put your hands to it, as their warmth will injure it. use the knife instead. always roll from you rather than to you, and press lightly on the rolling-pin, except at the last. it is difficult to make puff-paste in the summer, unless in a cellar, or very cool room, and on a marble table. the butter should, if possible, be washed the night before, and kept covered with ice till you use it next day. the water should have ice in it, and the butter should be iced as it sets on the paste-board. after the paste is mixed, it should be put in a covered dish, and set in cold water till you are ready to give it the last rolling. with all these precautions to prevent its being heavy, it will not rise as well, or be in any respect as good as in cold weather. the handsomest way of ornamenting the edge of a pie or pudding is to cut the rim in large square notches, and then fold over triangularly one corner of every notch. common paste for pies. a pound and a half of sifted flour. three quarters of a pound of butter--washed. _this will make one large pie or two small ones_. sift the flour into a pan. cut the butter into two equal parts. cut one half of the butter into the flour, and cut it up as small as possible. mix it well with the flour, wetting it gradually with a little cold water. spread some flour on your paste-board, take the lump of paste out of the pan, flour your rolling-pin, and roll out the paste into a large sheet. then stick it over with the remaining half of the butter in small pieces, and laid at equal distances. throw on a little flour, fold up the sheet of paste, flour it slightly, and roll it out again. then fold it up, and cut it in half or in four, according to the size of your pies. roll it out into round sheets the size of your pie-plates, pressing rather harder on the rolling-pin. butter your pie-plates, lay on your under crust, and trim the edge. fill the dish with the ingredients of which the pie is composed, and lay on the lid, in which you must prick some holes, or cut a small slit in the top. crimp the edges with a sharp knife. heap up the ingredients so that the pie will be highest in the middle. some think it makes common paste more crisp and light, to beat it hard on both sides with the rolling-pin, after you give it the first rolling, when all the butter is in. if the butter is very fresh, you may mix with the flour a salt-spoonful of salt. mince pies one pound and a half of boiled beef's heart, or fresh tongue--chopped when cold. two pounds of beef suet, chopped fine. four pounds of pippin apples, chopped. two pounds of raisins, stoned and chopped. two pounds of currants, picked, washed, and dried. two pounds of powdered sugar. one quart of white wine. one quart of brandy. one wine-glass of rose-water. two grated nutmegs. half an ounce of powdered cinnamon a quarter of an ounce of powdered cloves a quarter of an ounce of powdered mace a teaspoon of salt. two large oranges. half a pound of citron, cut in slips. parboil a beef's heart, or a fresh tongue. after you have taken off the skin and fat, weigh a pound and a half. when it is cold, chop it very fine. take the inside of the suet; weigh two pounds, and chop it as fine as possible. mix the meat and suet together, adding the salt. pare, core, and chop the apples, and then stone and chop the raisins. having prepared the currants, add them to the other fruit, and mix the fruit with the meat and suet. put in the sugar and spice, and the grated peel and juice of the oranges. wet the whole with the rose water and liquor, and mix all well together. make the paste, allowing for each pie, half a pound of butter and three quarters of a pound of sifted flour. make it in the same manner as puff-paste, but it will not be quite so rich. lay a sheet of paste all over a soup-plate. fill it with mince-meat, laying slips of citron on the top. roll out a sheet of paste, for the lid of the pie. put it on, and crimp the edges with a knife. prick holes in the lid. bake the pies half an hour in a brisk oven. keep your mince meat in a jar tightly covered. set it in a dry, cool place, and occasionally add more brandy to it. instead of the heart or tongue, you may, if you choose, use part of a round of fresh beef. plum pudding one pound of raisins, stoned and cut in half. one pound of currants, picked, washed and dried. one pound of beef suet chopped fine. one pound of grated stale bread, or, half a pound of flour and half a pound of bread. eight eggs. a quarter of a pound of sugar. a glass of brandy. a pint of milk. a glass of wine. two nutmegs, grated. a table-spoonful of mixed cinnamon and mace. a salt-spoonful of salt. you must prepare all your ingredients the day before (except beating the eggs) that in the morning you may have nothing to do but to mix them, as the pudding will require six hours to boil. beat the eggs very light, then put to them half the milk and beat both together. stir in gradually the flour and grated bread. next add the sugar by degrees. then the suet and fruit alternately. the fruit must be well sprinkled with flour, lest it sink to the bottom. stir very hard. then add the spice and liquor, and lastly the remainder of the milk. stir the whole mixture very well together. if it is not thick enough, add a little more grated bread or flour. if there is too much bread or flour, the pudding will be hard and heavy. dip your pudding-cloth, in boiling water, shake it out and sprinkle it slightly with flour. lay it in a pan and pour the mixture into the cloth. tie it up carefully, allowing room for the pudding to swell. boil it six hours, and turn it carefully out of the cloth. before you send it to table, have ready some blanched sweet almonds cut in slips, or some slips of citron, or both. stick them all over the outside of the pudding. eat it with wine, or with a sauce made of drawn butter, wine and nutmeg. the pudding will be improved if you add to the other ingredients, the grated rind of a large lemon or orange. lemon pudding one small lemon, with a smooth thin rind. three eggs. a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar. a quarter of a pound of fresh butter--washed. a table-spoonful of white wine and brandy, mixed. a tea-spoonful of rose-water. five ounces of sifted flour, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter for the paste. grate the yellow part of the rind of a small lemon. then cut the lemon in half, and squeeze the juice into the plate that contains the grated rind, carefully taking out all the seeds. mix the juice and rind together. put a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar into a deep earthen pan, and cut up in it a quarter of a pound of the best fresh butter. if the weather is very cold, set the pan near the fire, for a few minutes, to soften the butter, but do not allow it to melt or it will be heavy. stir the butter and sugar together, with a stick or wooden spoon, till it is perfectly light and of the consistence of cream. put the eggs in a shallow broad pan, and beat them with an egg-beater or rods, till they are quite smooth, and as thick as a boiled custard. then stir the eggs, gradually, into the pan of butter and sugar. add the liquor and rose water by degrees, and then stir in, gradually, the juice and grated rind of the lemon. stir the whole very hard, after all the ingredients are in. have ready a puff-paste made of five ounces of sifted flour, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. the paste must be made with as little water as possible. roll it out in a circular sheet, thin in the centre, and thicker towards the edges, and just large enough to cover the bottom, sides, and edges of a soup-plate. butter the soup-plate very well, and lay the paste in it, making it neat and even round the broad edge of the plate. with a sharp knife, trim off the superfluous dough, and notch the edges. put in the mixture with a spoon, and bake the pudding about half an hour, in a moderate oven. it should be baked of a very light brown. if the oven is too hot, the paste will not have time to rise well. if too cold, it will be clammy. when the pudding is cool, grate loaf-sugar over it. before using lemons for any purpose, always roll them awhile with your hand on a table. this will cause them to yield a larger quantity of juice. orange pudding. one large orange, of a deep colour, and smooth thin rind. one lime. a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar. a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. three eggs. a table-spoonful of mixed wine and brandy. a tea-spoonful of rose-water. grate the yellow rind of the orange and lime, and squeeze the juice into a saucer or soup-plate, taking out all the seeds. stir the butter and sugar to a cream. beat the eggs as light as possible, and then stir them by degrees into the pan of butter and sugar. add, gradually, the liquor and rose-water, and then by degrees, the orange and lime. stir all well together. have ready a sheet of puff-paste made of five ounces of sifted flour, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. lay the paste in a buttered soup-plate. trim and notch the edges, and then put in the mixture. bake it about half an hour, in a moderate oven. grate loaf-sugar over it, before you send it to table. cocoa-nut pudding a quarter of a pound of cocoa-nut, grated. a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar. three ounces and a half of fresh butter. the whites only of six eggs. a table-spoonful of wine and brandy mixed. half a tea-spoonful of rose-water. break up a cocoa-nut, and take the thin brown skin carefully off, with a knife. wash all the pieces in cold water, and then wipe them dry, with a clean towel. weigh a quarter of a pound of cocoa-nut, and grate it very fine, into a soup-plate. stir the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the liquor and rose-water gradually to them. beat the whites only, of six eggs, till they stand alone on the rods; and then stir the beaten white of egg, gradually, into the butter and sugar. afterwards, sprinkle in, by degrees, the grated cocoa-nut, stirring hard all the time. then stir all very well at the last. have ready a puff-paste, sufficient to cover the bottom, sides, and edges of a soup-plate. put in the mixture, and bake it in a moderate oven, about half an hour. grate loaf-sugar over it, when cool. almond pudding. half a pound of sweet almonds, which will be reduced to a quarter of a pound, when shelled and blanched. an ounce of blanched bitter almonds or peach-kernels. the whites only, of six eggs. a quarter of a pound of butter. a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar. a table-spoonful of mixed brandy, wine, and rose-water. shell half a pound of sweet almonds, and pour scalding water over them, which will make the skins peal off. as they get cool, pour more boiling water, till the almonds are all blanched. blanch also the bitter almonds. as you blanch the almonds, throw them into a bowl of cold water. then take them out, one by one, wipe them dry in a clean towel, and lay them on a plate. pound them one at a time to a fine paste, in a marble mortar, adding, as you pound them, a few drops of rose-water to prevent their oiling. pound the bitter and sweet almonds alternately, that they may be well mixed. they must be made perfectly fine and smooth, and are the better for being prepared the day before they are wanted for the pudding. stir the butter and sugar to a cream, and add to it, gradually, the liquor. beat the whites of six eggs till they stand alone. stir the almonds and white of eggs, alternately, into the butter and sugar; and then stir the whole well together. have ready a puff-paste sufficient for a soup-plate. butter the plate, lay on the paste, trim and notch it. then put in the mixture. bake it about half an hour in a moderate oven. grate loaf-sugar over it. a cheesecake. four eggs. a gill of milk. a quarter of a pound of butter. a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar. two ounces of grated bread. a table-spoonful of mixed brandy and wine. a tea-spoonful of rose-water. a tea-spoonful of mace, cinnamon, and nutmeg, mixed. a quarter of a pound of currants. pick the currants very clean. wash them through a colander, wipe them in a towel, and then dry them on a dish before the fire. when dry take out a few to scatter over the top of the cheesecake, lay them aside, and sprinkle the remainder of the currants with the flour. stir the butter and sugar to a cream. grate the bread, and prepare the spice. beat the eggs very light. boil the milk. when it comes to a boil, add to it half the beaten egg, and boil both together till it becomes a curd, stirring it frequently with a knife. then throw the grated bread on the curd, and stir all together. then take the milk, egg, and bread off the fire and stir it, gradually, into the butter and sugar. next, stir in the remaining half of the egg. add, by degrees, the liquor and spice. lastly, stir in, gradually, the currants. have ready a puff-paste, which should be made before you prepare the cheesecake, as the mixture will become heavy by standing. before you put it into the oven, scatter the remainder of the currants over the top. bake it half an hour in rather a quick oven. do not sugar the top. you may bake it either in a soup-plate, or in two small tin patty-pans, which, for cheesecakes, should be of a square shape. if baked in square patty-pans, leave at each side a flap of paste in the shape of a half-circle. cut long slits in these flaps and turn them over, so that they will rest on the top of the mixture. you can, if you choose, add to the currants a few raisins stoned, and cut in half. sweet potato pudding. a quarter of a pound of boiled sweet potato. three eggs. a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar. a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. a glass of mixed wine and brandy. a half-glass of rose-water. a tea-spoonful of mixed spice, nutmeg, mace and cinnamon. pound the spice, allowing a smaller proportion of mace than of nutmeg and cinnamon. boil and peal some sweet potatoes, and when they are cold, weigh a quarter of a pound. mash the sweet potato very smooth, and rub it through a sieve. stir the sugar and butter to a cream. beat the eggs very light, and stir them into the butter and sugar, alternately with the sweet potato. add by degrees the liquor, rose-water and spice. stir all very hard together. spread puff-paste on a soup-plate. put in the mixture, and bake it about half an hour in a moderate oven. grate sugar over it. pumpkin pudding. half a pound of stewed pumpkin. three eggs. a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, or a pint of cream. a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar. half a glass of wine and brandy mixed. half a glass of rose-water. a tea-spoonful of mixed spice, nutmeg, mace and cinnamon. stew some pumpkin with as little water as possible. drain it in a colander, and press it till dry. when cold, weigh half a pound, and pass it through a sieve. prepare the spice. stir together the sugar, and butter, to cream, till they are perfectly light. add to them, gradually, the spice and liquor. beat three eggs very light, and stir them into the butter and sugar alternately with the pumpkin. cover a soup-plate with puff-paste, and put in the mixture. bake it in a moderate oven about half an hour. grate sugar over it when cool. instead of the butter, you may boil a pint of milk or cream, and when cold, stir into it in turn the sugar, eggs, and pumpkin. gooseberry pudding. a pint of stewed gooseberries, with all their juice. a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar. two ounces of fresh butter. two ounces of grated bread. three eggs. stew the gooseberries till quite soft. when they are cold, mash them fine with the back of a spoon, and stir into them two ounces of sugar. take two ounces more of sugar, and stir it to a cream with two ounces of butter. grate very fine as much stale bread as will weigh two ounces. beat three eggs, and stir them into the butter and sugar, in turn with the gooseberries and bread. lay puff-paste in a soup plate. put in the mixture, and bake it half an hour. do not grate sugar over it. baked apple pudding. a pint of stewed apples. half a pint of cream, or two ounces of butter. a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar. a nutmeg grated. a table-spoonful of rose-water. a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-peel. stew your apple in as little water as possible, and not long enough for the pieces to break and lose their shape. put them in a colander to drain, and mash them with the back of a spoon. if stewed too long, and in too much water, they will lose their flavour. when cold, mix with them the nutmeg, rose-water, and lemon-peel, and two ounces of sugar. stir the other two ounces of sugar, with the butter or cream, and then mix it gradually with the apple. bake, it in puff-paste, in a soup-dish, about half an hour in a moderate oven. do not sugar the top. fruit pies. fruit pies for family use, are generally made with common paste, allowing three quarters of a pound of butter to a pound and a half of flour. peaches and plums for pies, should be cut in half, and the stones taken out. cherries also should be stoned, and red cherries only should be used for pies. apples should be cut into very thin slices, and are much improved by a little lemon peel. sweet apples are not good for pies, as they are very insipid when baked, and seldom get thoroughly done. if green apples are used, they should first be stewed in as little water as possible; and made very sweet. apples, stewed previous to baking, should not be done till they break, but only till they are tender. they should then be drained in a colander, and chopped fine with a knife or the edge of a spoon. in making pies of juicy fruit, it is a good way to set a small tea-cup on the bottom crust, and lay the fruit all round it. the juice will collect under the cup, and not run out at the edges or top of the pie. the fruit should be mixed with a sufficient quantity of sugar, and piled up in the middle, so as to make the pie highest in the centre. the upper crust should be pricked with a fork, or have a slit cut in the middle. the edges should be nicely crimped with a knife. dried peaches, dried apples, and cranberries should be stewed with a very little water, and allowed to get quite cold before they are put into the pie. if stewed fruit is put in warm, it will make the paste heavy. if your pies are made in the form of shells, or without lids, the fruit should always be stewed first, or it will not be sufficiently done, as the shells (which should be of puff paste) must not bake so long as covered pies. shells intended for sweetmeats, must be baked empty, and the fruit put into them before they go to table. fruit pies with lids, should have loaf-sugar grated over them. if they have been baked the day before, they should be warmed in the stove, or near the fire, before they are sent to table, to soften the crust, and make them taste fresh. raspberry and apple-pies are much improved by taking off the lid, and pouring in a little cream just before they go to table. replace the lid very carefully. oyster pie. a hundred large fresh oysters, or more if small. the yolks of six eggs boiled hard. a large slice of stale-bread, grated. a tea-spoonful of salt. a table-spoonful of pepper. a table-spoonful of mixed spice, nutmeg, mace and cinnamon. take a large round dish, butter it and spread a rich paste over the sides, and round the edge, but not at the bottom. salt oysters will not do for pies. they should be fresh, and as large and fine as possible. drain off part of the liquor from the oysters. put them into a pan, and season them with pepper, salt and spice. stir them well with the seasoning. have ready the yolks of eggs, chopped fine, and the grated bread. pour the oysters (with as much of their liquor as you please) into the dish that has the paste in it. strew over them the chopped egg and grated bread. roll out the lid of the pie, and put it on, crimping the edges handsomely. take a small sheet of paste, cut it into a square and roll it up. cut it with a sharp knife into the form of a double tulip. make a slit in the centre of the upper crust, and stick the tulip in it. cut out eight large leaves of paste, and lay them on the lid. bake the pie in a quick oven. if you think the oysters will be too much done by baking them in the crust, you can substitute for them pieces of bread, to keep up the lid of the pie. put the oysters with their liquor and the seasoning, chopped egg, grated bread, &c. into a pan. cover them closely, and let them just come to a boil, taking them off the fire, and stirring them frequently. when the crust is baked, take the lid neatly off (loosening it round the edge with a knife) take out the pieces of bread, and put in the oysters. lay the lid on again very carefully. for oyster patties, the oysters are prepared in the same manner. they may be chopped if you choose. they must be put in small shells of puff-paste. beef-steak pie. butter a deep dish, and spread a sheet of paste all over the bottom, sides, and edge. cut away from your beef-steak all the bone, fat, gristle, and skin. cut the lean in small thin pieces, about as large, generally, as the palm of your hand. beat the meat well with the rolling-pin, to make it juicy and tender. if you put in the fat, it will make the gravy too greasy and strong, as it cannot be skimmed. put a layer of meat over the bottom-crust of your dish, and season it to your taste, with pepper, salt, and, if you choose, a little nutmeg. a small quantity of mushroom ketchup is an improvement; so, also, is a little minced onion. have ready some cold boiled potatoes sliced thin. spread over the meat, a layer of potatoes, and a small piece of butter; then another layer of meat, seasoned, and then a layer of potatoes, and so on till the dish is full and heaped up in the middle, having a layer of meat on the top. pour in a little water. cover the pie with a sheet of paste, and trim the edges. notch it handsomely with a knife; and, if you choose, make a tulip of paste, and stick it in the middle of the lid, and lay leaves of paste round it. fresh oysters will greatly improve a beef-steak pie. so also will mushrooms. any meat pie may be made in a similar manner. indian pudding. a pound of beef-suet, chopped very fine. a pint of molasses. a pint of rich milk. four eggs. a large tea-spoonful of powdered nutmeg and cinnamon. a little grated or chipped lemon-peel. indian meal sufficient to make a thick batter. warm the milk and molasses, and stir them together. beat the eggs, and stir them gradually into the milk and molasses, in turn with the suet and indian meal. add the spice and lemon-peel and stir all very hard together. take care not to put too much indian meal, or the pudding will be heavy and solid. dip the cloth in boiling water. shake it out, and flour it slightly. pour the mixture into it, and tie it up, leaving room for the pudding to swell. boil it three hours. serve it up hot, and eat it with sauce made of drawn butter, wine and nutmeg. when cold, it is good cut in slices and fried. batter pudding. six eggs. eight table-spoonfuls of sifted flour. one quart of milk. a salt-spoonful of salt. stir the flour, gradually, into the milk, carefully dissolving all the lumps. beat the eggs very light, and add them by degrees to the milk and flour. put in the salt, and stir the whole well together. take a very thick pudding-cloth. dip it in boiling water, and flour it. pour into it the mixture and tie it up, leaving room for it to swell. boil it hard, one hour, and keep it in the pot, till it is time to send it to table. serve it up with wine-sauce. a square cloth, which when tied up will make the pudding of a round form, is better than a bag. apple batter pudding is made by pouring the batter over a dish of pippins, pared, cored, and sweetened, either whole or cut in pieces. bake it, and eat it with butter and sugar. bread pudding. a quarter of a pound of grated stale bread. a quart of milk, boiled with two or three sticks of cinnamon, slightly broken. eight eggs. a quarter of a pound of sugar. a little grated lemon-peel. boil the milk with the cinnamon, strain it, and set it away till quite cold. grate as much crumb of stale bread as will weigh a quarter of a pound. beat the eggs, and when the milk is cold, stir them into it in turn with the bread and sugar. add the lemon-peel, and if you choose, a table spoonful of rosewater. bake it in a buttered dish, and grate nutmeg over it when done. do not send it to table hot. baked puddings should never be eaten till they have become cold, or at least cool. rice pudding. a quarter of a pound of rice. a quarter of a pound of butter. a quarter of a pound of sugar. a pint and a half of milk, or cream and milk. six eggs. a tea-spoonful of mixed spice, mace, nutmeg and cinnamon. a half wine-glass of rose-water. wash the rice. boil it till very soft. drain it and set it away to get cold. put the butter and sugar together in a pan, and stir them till very light. add to them the spice and rose-water. beat the eggs very light, and stir them, gradually, into the milk. then stir the eggs and the milk into the butter and sugar, alternately with the rice. bake it and grate nutmeg over the top. currants or raisins, floured, and stirred in at the last, will greatly improve it. it should be eaten cold, or quite cool. boston pudding. make a good common paste with a pound and a half of flour, and three quarters of a pound of butter. [footnote: or three quarters of a pound of beef suet, chopped very fine. mix the suet at once with the flour, knead it with cold water into a stiff dough, and then roll it out into a large thin sheet. fold it up and roll it again.] when you roll it out the last time, cut off the edges, till you get the sheet of paste of an even square shape. have ready some fruit sweetened to your taste. if cranberries, gooseberries, dried peaches, or damsons, they should be stewed, and made very sweet. if apples, they should be stewed in a very little water, drained, and seasoned with nutmeg, rosewater and lemon. if currants, raspberries, or blackberries, they should be mashed with sugar, and put into the pudding raw. spread the fruit very thick, all over the sheet of paste, (which must not be rolled out too thin.) when it is covered all over with the fruit, roll it up, and close the dough at both ends, and down the last side. tie the pudding in a cloth and boil it. eat it with sugar. it must not be taken out of the pot till just before it is brought to table. fritters. seven eggs. half a pint of milk. a salt-spoonful of salt. sufficient flour to make a thick batter. beat the eggs well and stir them gradually into the milk. add the salt, and stir in flour enough to make a thick batter. fry them in lard, and serve them up hot. eat them with wine and sugar. they are improved by stirring in a table-spoonful of yeast. these are excellent with the addition of cold stewed apple, stirred into the mixtures in which case use less flour. fine custards. a quart of milk or cream. the yoke only, of sixteen eggs. six ounces of powdered white sugar. a large handful of peach-leaves or half an ounce of peach kernels or bitter almonds, broken in pieces. a table-spoonful of rose-water. a nutmeg. boil in the milk the cinnamon, and the peach-leaves, or peach-kernels. when it has boiled, set it away to get cold. as soon as it is cold, strain it through a sieve, to clear it from the cinnamon, peach-leaves, &c. and stir into it gradually, the sugar, spice, and rose-water. beat the yolks of sixteen eggs very light, and stir them by degrees into the milk, which must be quite cold or the eggs will make it curdle. put the custards into cups, and set them in a baking pan, half filled with water. when baked, grate some nutmeg over each and ice them. make the icing of the whites of eight eggs, a large tea-spoonful of powdered loaf sugar, and six drops of essence of lemon, beaten all together till it stands alone. pile up some of the icing on the top of each custard, heaping it high. put a spot of red nonpareils on the middle of the pile of icing. if the weather be damp, or the eggs not new-laid, more than eight whites will be required for the icing. plain custards. a quart of rich milk. eight eggs. a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar. a handful of peach-leaves, or half an ounce of peach-kernels, broken in pieces. a nutmeg. boil the peach-leaves or kernels in the milk, and set it away to cool. when cold, strain out the leaves or kernels, and stir in the sugar. beat the eggs very light, and stir them gradually into the milk when it is quite cold. bake it in cups, or in a large white dish. when cool, grate nutmeg over the top. rice custards. half a pound of rice. half a pound of raisins or currants. eight yolks of eggs or six whole eggs. six ounces of powdered sugar. a quart of rich milk. a handful of peach-leaves, or half an ounce of peach-kernels, broken in pieces. half an ounce of cinnamon, broken in pieces. boil the rice with the raisins or currants, which must first be floured. butter some cups or a mould, and when the rice is quite soft, drain it, and put it into them. set it away to get cold. beat the eggs well. boil the milk with the cinnamon and peach-leaves, or kernels. as soon as it has come to a boil, take it off and strain it through a sieve. then set it again on the fire, stir into it alternately, the egg and sugar, taking it off frequently and stirring it hard, lest it become a curd. take care not to boil it too long, or it will be lumpy and lose its flavour. when done, set it away to cool. turn out the rice from the cups or mould, into a deep dish. pour some of the boiled custard over it, and send up the remainder of the custard in a sauce-boat. you may, if you choose, ornament the lumps of rice, (after the custard is poured round them) by making a stiff froth of white of egg (beaten till it stands alone) and a few drops of essence of lemon, with a very little powdered loaf-sugar. heap the froth on the top of each lump of rice. cold custards. a quart of new milk, and a half a pint of cream, mixed. a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar. a large glass of white wine, in which an inch of washed rennet has been soaked. a nutmeg. mix together the milk, cream, and sugar. stir the wine into it, and pour the mixture into your custard-cups. set them in a warm place near the fire, till they become a firm curd. then set them on ice, or in a very cold place. grate nutmeg over them. curds and whey. take a small piece of rennet about two inches square. wash it very clean in cold water, to get all the salt off, and wipe it dry. put it in a tea-cup, and pour on it just enough of lukewarm water to cover it. let it set all night, or, for several hours. then take out the rennet, and stir the water in which it was soaked, into a quart of milk, which should be in a broad dish. set the milk in a warm place, till it becomes a firm curd. as soon as the curd is completely made, set it in a cool place, or on ice (if in summer) for two or three hours before you want to use it. eat it with wine, sugar, and nutmeg. the whey, drained from the curd, is an excellent drink for invalids. a trifle. a quart of cream. a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, powdered. half a pint of white wine and half a gill of brandy mixed. eight maccaroons, or more if you choose. four small sponge-cakes or naples biscuit. two ounces of blanched sweet almonds, pounded in a mortar. one ounce of blanched bitter almonds or peach-kernels. the juice and grated peel of two lemons. a nutmeg, grated. a glass of noyau. a pint of rich baked custard, made of the yolks of eggs. pound the sweet and bitter almonds to a smooth paste, adding a little rose-water as you pound them. grate the yellow peels of the lemons, and squeeze the juice into a saucer. break the sponge cake and maccaroons into small pieces, mix them with the almonds, and lay them in the bottom of a large glass bowl. grate a nutmeg over them, and the juice and peel of the lemons. add the wine and brandy, and let the mixture remain untouched, till the cakes are dissolved in the liquor. then stir it a little. mix the cream and sugar with a glass of noyau, and beat it with a whisk or rods, till it stands alone. as the froth rises, take it off with a spoon, and lay it on a sieve (with a large dish under it) to drain. the cream, that drains into the dish, must be poured back into the pan with the rest, and beaten over again. when the cream is finished, set it in a cool place. when the custard is cold, poor it into the glass bowl upon the dissolved cakes, &c. and when the cream is ready, fill up the bowl with it, heaping it high in the middle. you may ornament it with nonpareils. if you choose, you can put in, between the custard and the frothed cream, a layer of fruit jelly, or small fruit preserved. whipt cream. a quart of cream. the whites of four eggs. half a pint of white wine. a quarter of a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. tea drops of strong essence of lemon, or two lemons cut in thin slices, or the juice of a large lemon. mix together, in a broad pan, all the ingredients, unless you use slices of lemon, and then they must be laid at intervals among the froth, as you heap it in the bowl. with a whisk or rods, beat the cream to a strong froth. have beside your pan a sieve (bottom upwards) with a large dish under it. as the froth rises, take it lightly off with a spoon, and lay it on the sieve to drain. when the top of the sieve is full, transfer the froth to a large glass or china bowl. continue to do this till the bowl is full. the cream which has dropped through the sieve into the dish, must be poured into the pan, and beaten over again. when all the cream is converted into froth, pile it up in the bowl, making it highest in the middle. if you choose, you may ornament it with red and green nonpareils. if you put it in glasses, lay a little jelly in the bottom of each glass, and pile the cream on it. keep it in a cool place till you want to use it. floating island. six whites of eggs. six large table-spoonfuls of jelly. a pint of cream. put the jelly and white of egg into a pan, and beat it together with a whisk, till it becomes a stiff froth and stands alone. have ready the cream, in a broad shallow dish. just before you send it to table, pile up the froth in the centre of the cream. ice cream. a quart of rich cream. half a pound of powdered loaf sugar. the juice of two large lemons, or a pint of strawberries or raspberries. put the cream into a broad pan. then stir in the sugar by degrees, and when all is well mixed, strain it through a sieve. put it into a tin that has a close cover, and set it in a tub. fill the tub with ice broken into very small pieces, and strew among the ice a large quantity of salt, taking care that none of the salt gets into the cream. scrape the cream down with a spoon as it freezes round the edges of the tin. while the cream is freezing, stir in gradually the lemon-juice, or the juice of a pint of mashed strawberries or raspberries. when it is all frozen, dip the tin in lukewarm water; take out the cream, and fill your glasses; but not till a few minutes before you want to use it, as it will very soon melt. you may heighten the colour of the red fruit, by a little cochineal. if you wish to have it in moulds, put the cream into them as soon as it has frozen in the tin. set the moulds in a tub of ice and salt. just before you want to use the cream, take the moulds out of the tub, wipe or wash the salt carefully from the outside, dip the moulds in lukewarm water, and turn out the cream. you may flavour a quart of ice-cream with two ounces of sweet almonds and one ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and beaten in a mortar with a little rose-water to a smooth paste. stir in the almonds gradually while the cream is freezing. another kind of ice-cream. a pint and a half of rich cream. a quart and a half-pint of morning's milk. one pound of loaf sugar. two eggs. one table-spoonful of flour. two lemons. or half a vanilla bean, split into small pieces. or two ounces of sweet almonds and once ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and split into pieces. take half of the milk and put in the ingredient that is to flavour it, either the vanilla, the almonds, or the grated rind of the lemons. boil it, stirring in gradually the sugar. having beaten the eggs well, add to them two table-spoonfuls of cold milk, and pour them into the boiling milk. let them simmer two or three minutes, stirring them all the time. then take the mixture off the fire and strain it through book-muslin into a pan. add the cream and the remainder of the milk, and put the whole into the tin freezer, which must be set in a tub filled with ice, among which must be scattered a great deal of salt. squeeze the juice from the two lemons and stir it into the cream, by degrees, while it is freezing. when it is all frozen, turn it out, first dipping the tin for a moment in warm water. if you wish to flavour it with strawberry or raspberry juice, that, like the lemon-juice, must be stirred gradually in while the cream is freezing. in places where cream is not abundant, this receipt (though inferior in richness) will be found more economical than the preceding one. it is, however, less easy and expeditious. calf's-feet jelly. eight calf's feet. three quarts of water. a pint of white wine. three lemons. the whites of six eggs. half an ounce of cinnamon. half a pound of loaf-sugar, broken into lumps. endeavour to procure calf's-feet, that have been nicely singed, but not skinned, as the skin being left on, makes the jelly much firmer. the day before you want to use the jelly, boil the eight calf's-feet in three quarts of water, till the meat drops from the bone. when sufficiently done, put it into a collender or sieve, and let the liquid drain from the meat, into a broad pan or dish. skim off the fat. let the jelly stand till next day, and then carefully scrape off the sediment from the bottom. it will be a firm jelly, if too much water has not been used, and if it has bolted long enough. if it is not firm at first, it will not become so afterwards when boiled with the other ingredients. there should on no account be more than three quarts of water. early next morning, put the jelly into a tin kettle, or covered tin pan; set it on the fire, and melt it a little. take it off, and season it with the cinnamon slightly broken, a pint of madeira wine, three lemons cut in thin slices, and half a pound of loaf-sugar, broken up. if you wish it high-coloured, add two table-spoonfuls of french brandy. mix all well together. beat, slightly, the whites of six eggs (saving the egg-shell) and stir the whites into the jelly. break up the egg-shells into very small pieces, and throw them in also. stir the whole very well together. set it on the fire, and boil it hard five minutes, but do not stir it, as that will prevent its clearing. have ready a large white flannel bag, the top wide, and the bottom tapering to a point. tie the bag to the backs of two chairs, or to the legs of a table, and set a while dish or a mould under it. after the jelly has boiled five minutes, pour it hot into the bag, and let it drip through into the dish. do not squeeze the bag, as that will make the jelly dull and cloudy. if it is not clear the first time it passes through the bag, empty out all the ingredients, wash the bag, suspend it again, put another white dish under-it, pour the jelly back into the bag, and let it drip through again. repeat this six or eight times, or till it is clear, putting a clean dish under it every time. if it does not drip freely, move the bag into a warmer place. when the jelly has all dripped through the bag, and is clear, set it in a cool place to congeal. it will sometimes congeal immediately, and sometimes not for several hours, particularly if the weather is warm and damp. if the weather is very cold you must take care not to let it freeze. when it is quite firm, which perhaps it will not be till evening, fill your glasses with it, piling it up very high. if you make it in a mould, you must either set the mould under the bag while it is dripping, or pour it from the dish into the mould while it is liquid. when it is perfectly congealed, dip the mould for an instant in boiling water to loosen the jelly. turn it out on a glass dish. this quantity of ingredients will make a quart of jelly when finished. in cool weather it may be made a day or two before it is wanted. you may increase the seasoning, (that is, the wine, lemon, and cinnamon,) according to your taste, but less than the above proportion will not be sufficient to flavour the jelly. ice jelly is made in the same manner, only not so stiff. four calves-feet will be sufficient. freeze it as you would ice-cream, and serve it up in glasses. blancmange. four calf's-feet a pint and a half of thick cream. half a pound of loaf-sugar, broken up. a glass of wine. half a glass of rose-water. a tea-spoonful of mace, beaten and sifted. get four calf's-feet; if possible some that have been singed, and not skinned. scrape, and clean them well, and boil them in three quarts of water till all the meat drops off the bone. drain the liquid through a colander or sieve, and skim it well. let it stand till next morning to congeal. then clean it well from the sediment, and put it into a tin or bell-metal kettle. stir into it, the cream, sugar, and mace. boil it hard for five minutes, stirring it several times. then strain it through a linen cloth or napkin into a large bowl, and add the wine and rose-water. set it in a cool place for three or four hours, stirring it very frequently with a spoon, to, prevent the cream from separating from the jelly. the more it is stirred the better. stir it till it is cool. wash your moulds, wipe them dry, and then wet them with cold water. when the blancmange becomes very thick, (that is, in three or four hours, if the weather is not too damp) put it into your moulds. when it has set in them till it is quite firm, loosen it carefully all round with a knife, and turn it out on glass or china plates. if you wish to make it with almonds, take an ounce of blanched bitter almonds, and two ounces of sweet. beat them in a mortar to a fine paste, pouring in occasionally a little rose-water. when the mixture is ready to boil, add the almonds to it gradually, stirring them well in. or you may stir them in, while it is cooling in the bowl. if it inclines to stick to the moulds, set them an instant in hot water. it will then turn out easily. if you choose to make it without calf's feet, you can substitute an ounce of the best and dearest isinglass (or, if in summer, an ounce and a quarter) boiled with the other ingredients. if made with isinglass, you must use two ounces of sweet, and an ounce of bitter almonds, with the addition of the grated rind of a large lemon, and a large stick of cinnamon, broken up, a glass of wine, and half a glass of rose-water. those ingredients must be all mixed together, with a quart of cream, and boiled hard for five minutes. the mixture must then be strained through a napkin, into a large bowl. set it in a cool place, and stir it frequently till nearly cold. it must then be put into the moulds. you may substitute for the almonds, half a gill of noyau, in which case, omit the wine. part the second. cakes. general directions. in making cakes it is particularly necessary that the eggs should be well beaten. they are not sufficiently light till the surface looks smooth and level, and till they get so thick as to be of the consistence of boiled custard. white of egg should always be beaten till it becomes a heap of stiff froth, without any liquid at the bottom; and till it hangs from the rods or fork without dropping. eggs, become light soonest when new-laid, and when beaten near the fire or in warm dry weather. butter and sugar should be stirred till it looks like thick cream, and till it stands up in the pan. it should be kept cool. if too warm, it will make the cakes heavy. large cakes should be baked in tin or earthen pans with straight sides, that are as nearly perpendicular as possible. they cut into handsomer slices, and if they are to be iced, it will be found very inconvenient to put on the icing, if the cake slopes in towards the bottom. before you ice a cake dredge it all over with flour, and then wipe the flour off. this will enable you to spread on the icing more evenly. before you cut an ice cake, cut the icing by itself with a small sharp penknife. the large knife with which you divide the cake, will crack and break the icing. large gingerbread, as it burns very easily, may be baked in an earthen pan. so also may black cake or pound cake. tin pans or moulds, with a hollow tube in the middle, are best for cakes. if large cakes are baked in tin pans, the bottom and sides should be covered with sheets of paper, before the mixture is put in. the paper must be well buttered. sponge cakes, and almond cakes should be baked in pans that are as thin as possible. if the cakes should get burnt, scrape them with a knife or grater, as soon as they are cool. always be careful to butter your pans well. should the cakes stick, they cannot be got out without breaking. for queen-cakes, &c. the small tins of a round or oval shape are most convenient. fill them but little more than half. after the mixture is completed, set it in a cool place till all the cakes are baked, in rolling out cakes made of dough, use as little flour as possible. when you lay them in the pans, do not place them too close together, lest they run into each other. when you are cutting them out, dip the cutter frequently in flour, to prevent its slicking. queen cake. one pound of powdered white sugar. one pound of fresh butter--washed. fourteen ounces of sifted flour. ten eggs. one wine-glass of wine and brandy, mixed. half a glass of rose-water, or twelve drops of essence of lemon. one tea-spoonful of mace and cinnamon, mixed. one nutmeg, beaten or grated. pound the spice to a fine powder, in a marble mortar, and sift it well. put the sugar into a deep earthen pan, and cut the butter into it. stir them together, till very light. beat the eggs in a broad shallow pan, till they are perfectly smooth and thick. stir into the butter and sugar a little of the beaten egg, and then a little flour, and so on alternately, a little egg and a little flour, till the whole is in; continuing all the time to beat the eggs, and stirring the mixture very hard. add by degrees, the spice, and then the liquor, a little at a time. finally, put in the rose-water, or essence of lemon. [footnote: in buying essence or oil of lemon, endeavour to get that which is white, it being much the strongest and best. when it looks greenish, it is generally very weak, so that when used, a double or treble quantity is necessary.] stir the whole very hard at the last. take about two dozen little tins, or more, if you have room for them in the oven. rub them very well with fresh butter. with a spoon, put some of the mixture in each tin, but do not fill them to the top as the cakes will rise high in baking. bake them in a quick oven, about a quarter of an hour. when they are done, they will shrink a little from the sides of the tins. before you fill your tins again, scrape them well with a knife, and wash or wipe them clean. if the cakes are scorched by too hot a fire, do not scrape off the burnt parts till they have grown cold. make an icing with the whites of three eggs, beaten till it stands alone, and twenty-four tea-spoonfuls of the best loaf-sugar, powdered, and beaten gradually into the white of egg. flavour it with a tea-spoonful of rose-water or eight drops of essence of lemon, stirred in at the last. spread it evenly with a broad knife, over the top of each queen-cake, ornamenting them, (while the icing is quite wet) with red and green nonpareils, or fine sugar-sand, dropped on, carefully, with the thumb and finger. when the cakes are iced, set them in a warm place to dry; but not too near the fire, as that will cause the icing to crack. [footnote: you may colour icing of a fine pink, by mixing with it a few drops of liquid cochineal; which is prepared by boiling very slowly in an earthen or china vessel twenty grains of cochineal powder, twenty grains of cream of tartar, and twenty grains of powdered alum, all dissolved in a gill of soft water, and boiled till reduced to one half. strain it and cork it up in a small phial. pink icing should be ornamented with white nonpareils.] pound cake. one pound of flour, sifted. one pound of white sugar, powdered and sifted. one pound of fresh butter. ten eggs. half a glass of wine \ half a glass of brandy }mixed. half a glass of rose-water / twelve drops of essence of lemon. a table-spoonful of mixed mace and cinnamon. a nutmeg, powdered. pound the spice and sift it. there should be twice as much cinnamon as mace. mix the cinnamon, mace, and nutmeg together. sift the flour in a broad pan, or wooden bowl. sift the powdered sugar into a large deep pan, and cut the butter into it, in small pieces. if the weather is very cold, and the butter hard, set the pan near the fire for a few minutes; but if the butter is too warm, the cake will be heavy. stir the butter and sugar together, with a wooden stick, till they are very light, and white, and look like cream. beat the eggs in a broad shallow pan with a wood egg-beater or whisk. they must be beaten till they are thick and smooth, and of the consistence of boiled custard. pour the liquor and rose-water, gradually, into the butter and sugar, stirring all the time. add, by degrees, the essence of lemon and spice. stir the egg and flour alternately into the butter and sugar, a handful of flour, and about two spoonfuls of the egg (which you must continue to beat all the time,) and when all is in, stir the whole mixture very hard, for near ten minutes. butter a large tin pan, or a cake mould with an open tube rising from the middle. put the mixture into it as evenly as possible. bake it in a moderate oven, for two, or three, or four hours, in proportion to its thickness, and to the heat of the fire. when you think it is nearly done, thrust a twig or wooden skewer into it, down to the bottom. if the stick come out clean and dry, the cake is almost baked. when quite done, it will shrink from she sides of the pan, and cease making a noise. then withdraw the coals (if baked in a dutch oven), take off the lid, and let the cake remain in the oven to cool gradually. you may ice it either warm or cold. before you put the icing on a large cake, dredge the cake all over with flour, and then wipe the flour off; this will make the icing stick on better--if you have sufficient time, the appearance of the cake will be much improved by icing it twice. put on the first icing soon after the cake is taken out of the oven, and the second the next day when the first is perfectly dry. while the last icing is wet, ornament it with coloured sugar-sand or nonpareils. black cake, or plum cake. one pound of flour sifted. one pound of fresh butter. one pound of powdered white sugar. twelve eggs. two pounds of the best raisins. two pounds of currants. two table-spoonfuls of mixed spice, mace and cinnamon. two nutmegs powdered. a large glass of wine \ a large glass of brandy }mixed together. half a glass of rose-water / a pound of citron. pick the currants very clean, and wash them, draining them through a colander. wipe them in a towel. spread them out on a large dish, and set them near the fire, or in the hot sun, to dry, placing the dish in a slanting position. having stoned the raisins, cut them in half, and, when all are done, sprinkle them well with sifted flour, to prevent their sinking to the bottom of the cake. when the currants are dry, sprinkle them also with flour. pound the spice, allowing twice as much cinnamon as mace. sift it, and mix the mace, nutmeg, cinnamon together. mix also the liquor and rose-water in a tumbler or cup. cut the citron in slips. sift the flour into a broad dish. sift the sugar into a deep earthen pan, and cut the butter into it. warm it near the fire, if the weather is too cold for it to mix easily. stir the butter and sugar to a cream. beat the eggs as light as possible. stir them into the butter and sugar, alternately with the flour. stir very hard. add gradually the spice and liquor. stir the raisins and currants alternately into the mixture, taking care that they are well floured. stir the whole as hard as possible, for ten minutes after the ingredients are in. cover the bottom and sides of a large tin or earthen pan, with sheets of white paper well buttered, and put into it some of the mixture. then spread on it some of the citron, which must not be cut too small. next put a layer of the mixture, and then a layer of citron, and so on till it is all in, having a layer of the mixture at the top. this cake is always best baked in a baker's oven, and will require four or five hours, in proportion to its thickness. [footnote: after this cake is done, it will be the better for withdrawing the fire (if baked in an iron oven) and letting it stay in the oven all night, or till it gets quite cold.] ice it the next day. sponge cake. twelve eggs. ten ounces of sifted flour, dried near the fire. a pound of loaf sugar, powdered and sifted. twelve drops of essence of lemon. a grated nutmeg. a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon and mace, mixed. beat the eggs as light as possible. eggs for sponge or almond cakes require more beating than for any other purpose. beat the sugar, by degrees, into the eggs. beat very hard, and continue to beat some time after the sugar is all in. no sort of sugar but loaf will make light sponge-cake. stir in, gradually, the spice and essence of lemon. then, by degrees, put in the flour, a little at a time, stirring round the mixture very slowly with a knife. if the flour is stirred in too hard, the cake will be tough. it must be done lightly and gently, so that the top of the mixture will be covered with bubbles. as soon as the flour is all in, begin to bake it, as setting will injure it. put it in small tins, well buttered, or in one large tin pan. the thinner the pans, the better for sponge-cake. fill the small tins about half full. grate loaf-sugar over the top of each, before you set them in the oven. sponge-cake requires a very quick oven, particularly at the bottom. it should be baked as fast as possible, or it will be tough and heavy, however light it may have been before it went into the oven. it is of all cakes the most liable to be spoiled in baking. when taken out of the tins, the cakes should be spread on a sieve to cool. if baked in one large cake, it should be iced. a large cake of twelve eggs, should be baked at least an hour in a quick oven. for small cakes, ten minutes is generally sufficient. if they get very much out of shape in baking, it is a sign that the oven is too slow. some think that sponge-cakes and almond cakes are lighter, when the yolks and whites of the eggs are beaten in separate pans, and mixed gently together before the sugar is beaten into them. if done separately from the yolks, the whites should be beaten till they stand alone. almond cake two ounces of blanched bitter almonds, pounded very fine. seven ounces of flour, sifted and dried. ten eggs. one pound of loaf sugar, powdered and sifted. two table-spoonfuls of rose-water. take two ounces of shelled bitter almonds or peach-kernels. scald them in hot water, and as you peel them, throw them into a bowl of cold water, then wipe them dry, and pound them one by one in a mortar, till they are quite fine and smooth. break ten eggs, putting the yolks in one pan and the whites in another. beat them separately as light as possible, the whites first, and then the yolks. add the sugar, gradually, to the yolks, beating it in very hard. then by degrees, beat in the almonds, and then add the rose-water. stir-half the whites of the eggs into the yolks and sugar. divide the flour into two equal parts, and stir in one half, slowly and lightly, till it bubbles on the top. then the other half of the white of egg, and then the remainder of the flour very lightly. butter a large square tin pan, or one made of paste-board which will be better. put in the mixture, and set immediately in a quick oven, which must be rather hotter at the bottom than at the top. bake it according to the thickness. if you allow the oven to get slack, the cake will be spoiled. make an icing with the whites of three eggs, twenty-four tea-spoonfuls of loaf-sugar, and eight drops of essence of lemon. when the cake is cool, mark it in small squares with a knife. cover it with icing, and ornament it while wet, with nonpareils dropped on in borders, round each square of the cake. when the icing is dry, cut the cake in squares, cutting through the icing very carefully with a penknife. or you may cat it in squares first, and then ice and ornament each square separately. french almond cake. six ounces of shelled sweet almonds. three ounces of shelled bitter almonds, or peach-kernels. three ounces of sifted flour, dried near the fire. fourteen eggs. one pound of powdered loaf-sugar. twelve drops of essence of lemon. blanch the almonds, by scalding them in hot water. put them in a bowl of cold water, and wipe them dry, when you take them out. pound them, one at a time, in a mortar, till they are perfectly smooth. mix the sweet and bitter almonds together. prepare them, if possible the day before the cake is made. [footnote: while pounding the almonds, pour in occasionally a little rose-water. it makes them much lighter.] put the whites and yolks of the eggs, into separate pans. beat the whites till they stand alone, and then the yolks till they are very thick. put the sugar, gradually, to the yolks, beating it in very hard. add, by degrees, the almonds, still beating very hard. then put in the essence of lemon. next, beat in, gradually, the whites of the eggs, continuing to beat for some time after they are all in. lastly, stir in the flour, as slowly and lightly, as possible. butter a large tin mould or pan. put the cake in and bake it in a very quick oven, an hour or more according to its thickness. the oven must on no account be hotter at the top, than at the bottom. when done, set it on a sieve to cool. ice it, and ornament it with nonpareils. these almond cakes are generally baked in a turban-shaped mould, and the nonpareils put on, in spots or sprigs. a pound of almonds in the shells (if the shells are soft and thin,) will generally yield half a pound when shelled. hard, thick-shelled almonds, seldom yield much more than a quarter of a pound, and should therefore never be bought for cakes or puddings. bitter almonds and peach-kernels can always be purchased with the shells off. families should always save their peach-kernels, as they can be used in cakes, puddings and custards. maccaroons. half a pound of shelled sweet almonds. a quarter of a pound of shelled bitter almonds. the whites of three eggs. twenty-four large tea-spoonfuls of powdered loaf-sugar. a tea-spoonful of rose-water. a large tea-spoonful of mixed spice, nutmeg, mace and cinnamon. blanch and pound your almonds, beat them very smooth, and mix the sweet and bitter together; do them, if you can, the day before you make the maccaroons. pound and sift your spice. beat the whites of three eggs till they stand alone; add to them, very gradually, the powdered sugar, a spoonful at a time, beat it in very hard, and put in, by degrees, the rose-water and spice. then stir in, gradually, the almonds. the mixture must be like a soft dough; if too thick, it will be heavy; if too thin, it will run out of shape. if you find your almonds not sufficient, prepare a few more, and stir them in. when it is all well mixed and stirred, put some flour in the palm of your hand, and taking up a lump of the mixture with a knife, roll it on your hand with the flour into a small round ball; have ready an iron or tin pan, buttered, and lay the maccaroons in it, as you make them up. place them about two inches apart, in case of their spreading. bake them about eight or ten minutes in a moderate oven; they should be baked of a pale brown colour. if too much baked, they will lose their flavour; if too little, they will be heavy. they should rise high in the middle, and crack on the surface. you may, if you choose, put a larger proportion of spice. [footnote: cocoa-nut cakes may be made in a similar manner, substituting for the pounded almonds half a pound of finely-grated cocoa-nut. they mast be made into small round balls with a little flour laid on the palm of the hand, and baked a few minutes. they are very fine.] apees. a pound of flour, sifted. half a pound of butter. half a glass of wine, and a table-spoon of rose-water mixed. half a pound of powdered white sugar. a nutmeg, grated. a tea-spoonful of beaten cinnamon and mace. three table-spoonfuls of carraway seeds. sift the flour into a broad pan, and cut up the butter in it. add the carraways, sugar, and spice, and pour in the liquor by degrees, mixing it well with a knife; add enough of cold water to make it a stiff dough. spread some flour on your pasteboard, take out the dough, and knead it very well with your hands. cut it into small pieces, and knead each separately, then put them all together, and knead the whole in one lump. roll it out in a sheet about a quarter of an inch thick. cut it out in round cakes, with the edge of a tumbler, or a tin of that size. butter an iron pan, and lay the cakes in it, not too close together. bake them a few minutes in a moderate oven, till they are very slightly coloured, but not brown. if too much baked, they will entirely lose their flavour. do not roll them out too thin. jumbles. three eggs. half a pound of flour, sifted. half a pound of butter. half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar. a table-spoonful of rose-water. a nutmeg grated. a tea-spoonful of mixed mace and cinnamon. stir the sugar and butter to a cream. beat the eggs very light. throw them, all at once, into the pan of flour. put in, at once, the butter and sugar, and then add the spice and rose-water. if you have no rose-water, substitute six or seven drops of strong essence of lemon, or more if the essence is weak. stir the whole very hard, with a knife. spread some flour on your paste-board, and flour your hands well. take up with your knife, a portion of the dough, and lay it on the board. roll it lightly with your hands, into long shin rolls, which must be cut into equal lengths, curled up into rings, and laid gently into an iron or tin pan, buttered, not too close to each other, as they spread in baking. bake them in a quick oven about five minutes, and grate loaf-sugar over them when cool. kisses. one pound of the best loaf sugar, powdered and sifted. the whites of four eggs. twelve drops of essence of lemon. a tea-cup of currant jelly. beat the whites of four eggs till they stand alone. then heat in, gradually, the sugar, a tea-spoonful at a time. add the essence of lemon, and beat the whole very hard. lay a wet sheet of paper on the bottom of a square tin pan. drop on it, at equal distances, a small tea-spoonful of stiff currant jelly. [footnote: it is better to put a little of the beaten white of egg and sugar at first under the currant jelly.] with a large spoon, pile some of the beaten white of egg and sugar, on each lump of jelly, so as to cover it entirely. drop on the mixture as evenly as possible, so as to make the kisses of a round smooth shape. set them in a cool open, and as soon as they are coloured, they are done. then take them out and place them two bottoms together. lay them lightly on sieve, and dry them in a cool oven, till the two bottoms stick fast together, so as to form one ball or oval. spanish buns. four eggs. three quarters of a pound of flour, sifted. half a pound of powdered white sugar. two wine-glasses and a half of rich milk. six ounces of fresh butter. a wine-glass and a half of the best yeast. a table-spoonful of rose-water. a grated nutmeg. a large tea-spoonful of powdered mace and cinnamon. sift half a pound of flour into a broad pan, and sift a quarter of a pound, separately, into a deep plate, and set it aside. put the milk into a soup-plate, cut up the butter, and set it on the stove or near the fire to warm, but do not let it get too hot. when the butter is very soft, stir it all through the milk with a knife, and set it away to cool. beat the eggs very light, and mix the milk and butter with them, all at once; then pour all into the pan of flour. put in the spice, and the rose-water, or if you prefer it, eight drops of essence of lemon. add the yeast, of which an increased quantity will be necessary, if it is not very strong and fresh. stir the whole very hard, with a knife. add the sugar gradually. if the sugar is not stirred in slowly, a little at a time, the buns will be heavy. then, by degrees, sprinkle in the renaming quarter of a pound of flour. stir all well together; butter a square iron pan, and put in the mixture. cover it with a cloth, and set it near the fire to rise. it will probably not be light in less than five hours. when it is risen very high, and is covered with bubbles, bake it in a moderate oven, about a quarter of an hour or more in proportion to its thickness. when it is quite cool, cut it in squares, and grate loaf-sugar over them. this quantity will make twelve or fifteen buns. they are best the day they are baked. you may, if you choose, bake them separately, in small square tins, adding to the baiter half a pound of currants or chopped raisins, well floured, and stirred in at the last. in making buns, stir the yeast well before you put it in, having first poured off the beer or thin part from the top. if your yeast is not good, do not attempt to make buns with it, as they will never be light. buns may be made in a plainer way, with the following ingredients, mixed in the above manner. half a pound of flour, sifted into a pan. a quarter of a pound of flour, sifted in a plate, and set aside to sprinkle in at the last. three eggs, well beaten. a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar. three wine-glasses of milk. a wine-glass and a half of the best yeast. a quarter of a pound of butter, cut up, and warmed in the milk. rusk. a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar. a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. one pound of flour sifted. one egg. three wine-glasses of milk. a wine-glass and a half of the best yeast. a table-spoonful of rose-water. a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. sift your flour into a pan. cut up the butter in the milk, and warm them a little, so as to soften the butter, but not to melt it entirely. beat your egg; pour the milk and butter into your pan of flour, then the egg, then the rose-water and spice, and lastly the yeast. stir all well together with a knife. spread some flour on your paste-board: lay the dough on it, and knead it well. then divide it into small pieces of an equal size, and knead each piece into a little thick round cake. butter an iron pan, lay the cakes in it, and set them in a warm place to rise. prick the tops with a fork. when they are quite light, bake them in a moderate oven. indian pound cake. eight eggs. one pint of powdered sugar. one pint of indian meal, sifted, and half a pint of wheat-flour. half a pound of butter. one nutmeg, grated,--and a tea-spoonful of cinnamon. half a glass of mixed wine and brandy. stir the butter and sugar to a cream. beat the eggs very light. stir the meal and eggs, alternately, into the butter and sugar. add the spice and liquor. stir all well. butter a tin pan, put in the mixture, and bake it in a moderate oven. this cake should be eaten while fresh. cup cake. five eggs. two large tea-cups full of molasses. the same of brown sugar rolled fine. the same of fresh butter. one cup of rich milk. five cups of flour sifted. half a cup of powdered allspice and cloves. half a cup of ginger. cut up the butter in the milk, and warm them slightly. warm also the molasses, and stir it into the milk and butter: then stir in, gradually, the sugar, and set it away to get cool. beat the eggs very light, and stir them into the mixture alternately with the flour. add the ginger and other spice, and stir the whole very hard. butter small tins, nearly fill them with the mixture, and bake the cakes in a moderate oven. loaf cake. two pounds of sifted flour, setting aside half a pound to sprinkle in at the last. one pound of fresh butter. one pound of powdered sugar. four eggs. one pound of raisins, stoned, and cut in half. one pound of currants, washed and dried. half a pint of milk. half a glass of wine. half a glass of brandy. a tablespoon of mixed spice, mace, nutmeg, and cinnamon. half a pint of the best brewer's yeast; or more, if the yeast is not very strong. cut up the butter in the milk, and warm it till the butter is quite soft; then stir it together, and set it away to cool. it must not be made too warm. after you have beaten the eggs, mix them with the butter and milk, and stir the whole into the pan of flour. add the spice and liquor, and stir in the sugar gradually. having poured off the thin part from the top, stir the yeast, and pour it into the mixture. then sprinkle in the remainder of the flour. have ready the fruit, which must be well floured, stir it gradually into the mixture. butter a large tin pan, and put the cake into it. cover it, and set in a warm place for five or six hours to rise. when quite light, bake it in a moderate oven. sugar biscuits. three pounds of flour, sifted. one pound of butter. a pound and a half of powdered sugar. half a pint of milk. two table-spoonfuls of brandy. a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash dissolved in water. four table-spoonfuls of carraway seeds. cut the butter into the flour. add the sugar and carraway seeds. pour in the brandy, and then the milk. lastly, put in the pearl-ash. stir all well with a knife, and mix it thoroughly, till it becomes a lump of dough. flour your paste-board, and lay the dough on it. knead it very well. divide it into eight or ten pieces, and knead each piece separately. then put them all together, and knead them very well in one lump. cut the dough in half, and roll it out into sheets, about half an inch thick. beat the sheets of dough very hard, on both sides, with the rolling-pin. cut them out into round cakes with the edge of a tumbler. butter iron pans, and lay the cakes in them. bake them a very pale brown. if done too much, they will lose their taste. these cakes kept in a stone jar, closely covered from the air, will continue perfectly good for several months. milk biscuits. two pounds of flour, sifted. half a pound of butter. two eggs. six wine-glasses of milk. two wine-glasses of the best brewer's yeast, or three of good home-made yeast. cut the butter into the milk, and warm it slightly on the top of the stove, or near the fire. sift the flour into a pan, and pour the milk and butter into it. beat the eggs, and pour them in also. lastly the yeast. mix all well together with a knife. flour your paste-board, put the lump of dough on it, and knead it very hard. then cut the dough in small pieces, and knead them into round balls. stick the tops of them with a fork. lay them in buttered pans and set them to rise. they will probably be light in an hour. when they are quite light, put them in a moderate oven and bake them. they are best when quite fresh. butter biscuits. half a pound of butter. two pounds of flour, sifted half a pint of milk, or cold water. a salt-spoonful of salt. cut up the butter in the flour, and put the salt to it. wet it to a stiff dough with the milk or water. mix it well with a knife. throw some flour on the paste-board, take the dough out of the pan, and knead it very well. roll it out into a large thick sheet, and beat it very hard on both sides with the rolling-pin. beat it a long time. cut it out with a tin, or cup, into small round thick cakes. beat each cake on both sides, with the rolling-pin. prick them, with a fork. put them in buttered pans, and bake them of a light brown in a slow oven. gingerbread nuts two pounds of flour, sifted. one pound of fresh butter. one quart of sugar-house molasses. two ounces of ginger, or more, if it is not very strong. twelve dozen grains of allspice, powdered and sifted six dozen cloves, powdered and sifted. half an ounce of cinnamon, powdered and sifted. a half tea-spoonful of pearl-ash or salaeratus, dissolved in a little vinegar. cut up the butter in the flour, and mix it with the ginger and other spice. wet the whole with the molasses, and stir all well together with a knife. then add the dissolved pearl-ash or salaeratus. throw some flour on your paste-board, take the dough (a large handful at a time) and knead it in separate cakes. then put all together, and knead it very hard for a long time, in one large lump. cut the lump in half, roll it out in two even sheets, about half an inch thick, and cut it out in little cakes, with a very small tin, about the size of a cent. lay them in buttered pans, and bake them in a moderate oven, taking care they do not scorch, as gingerbread is more liable to burn than any other cake, you may, if you choose, shape the gingerbread nuts, by putting flour in your hand, taking a very small piece of the dough, and rolling it into a little round ball. common gingerbread. a pint of molasses. one pound of fresh butter. two pounds and a half of flour, sifted. a pint of milk, a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash, or less if it is strong. a tea-cup full of ginger. cut the butter into the flour. add the ginger. having dissolved the pearl-ash in a little vinegar, stir it with the milk and molasses alternately into the other ingredients. stir it very hard for a long lime, till it is quite light. put some flour on your paste-board, take out small portions of the dough, and make it with your hand into long rolls. then curl up the rolls into round cakes, or twist two rolls together, or lay them in straight lengths or sticks side by side, and touching each other. put them carefully in buttered pans, and bake them in a moderate oven, not hot enough to burn them. if they should get scorched, scrape off with a knife, or grater, all the burnt parts, before you put the cakes away. you can, if you choose, cut out the dough with tins, in the shape of hearts, circles, ovals, &c. or you may bake it all in one, and cut it in squares when cold. if the mixture appears to be too thin, add, gradually, a little more sifted flour. lafayette gingerbread five eggs. half a pound of brown sugar. half a pound of fresh butter. a pint of sugar-house molasses a pound and a half of flour. four table-spoonfuls of ginger. two large sticks of cinnamon, powered and sifted. three dozen grains of allspice, powdered and sifted. three dozen of cloves, powdered and sifted. the juice and grated peel of two large lemons. a little pearl-ash or salaeratus. stir the butter and sugar to a cream. beat the eggs very well. pour the molasses, at once, into the butter and sugar. add the ginger and other spice, and stir all well together. put in the egg and flour alternately, stirring all the time. stir the whole very hard, and put in the lemon at the last. when the whole is mixed, stir it till very light. butter an earthen pan, or a thick tin or iron one, and put the gingerbread in it. bake it in a moderate oven, an hour or more, according to its thickness. take care that it do not burn. or you may bake it in small cakes, or little tins. its lightness will be much improved by a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash dissolved in a tea-spoonful of vinegar, and stirred lightly in at the last. [footnote: if the pearl-ash is strong, half a tea-spoonful will be sufficient, or less even will do. it is better stir the pearl-ash in, a little at a time, and you can tell by the taste of the mixture, when there is enough.] too much pearl-ash, will give it an unpleasant taste. if you use pearl-ash, you must omit the lemon, as its taste will be entirely destroyed by the pearl-ash. you may substitute for the lemon, some raisins and currants, well floured to prevent their sinking. this is the finest of all gingerbread, but should not be kept long, as in a few days it becomes very hard and stale. a dover cake. half a pint of milk. a half tea-spoonful of pearl-ash, dissolved in a little vinegar. one pound of sifted flour. one pound of powdered white sugar. half a pound of butter. six eggs. one glass of brandy. half a glass of rose-water. one grated nutmeg. a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. dissolve the pearl-ash in vinegar. stir the sugar and butter to a cream, and add to it gradually, the spice and liquor. beat the eggs very light, and stir them into the butter and sugar, alternately, with the flour. add, gradually, the milk, and stir the whole very hard. butter a large tin pan, and put in the mixture. bake it two hours or more, in a moderate oven. if not thick, an hour or an hour and a half will be sufficient. wrap it in a thick cloth, and keep it from the air, and it will continue moist and fresh for two weeks. the pearl-ash will give it a dark colour. it will be much improved by a pound of raisins, stoned and cut in half, and a pound of currants, well washed and dried. flour the fruit well, and stir it in at the last. crullers. half a pound of butter. three quarters of a pound of powdered white sugar. six eggs, or seven if they are small. two pounds of flour, sifted. a grated nutmeg. a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. a table-spoonful of rose-water. cut the butter into the flour, add the sugar and spice, and mix them well together. beat the eggs and pour them into the pan of flour, &c. add the rose water, and mix the whole into a dough. if the eggs and rose-water are not found sufficient to wet it, add a very little cold water. mix the dough very well with a knife. spread some flour on your paste-board, take the dough out of the pan, and knead it very well. cut it into small pieces, and knead each separately. put all the pieces together, and knead the whole in one lump. roll it out into a large square sheet, about half an inch thick. take a jagging-iron, or, if you have not one, a sharp knife; run it along the sheet, and cut the dough into long narrow slips. twist them up in various forms. have ready an iron pan with melted lard. lay the crullers lightly in it, and fry them of a light brown, turning them with a knife and fork, so as not to break them, and taking care that both sides are equally done. when sufficiently fried, spread them on a large dish to cool, and grate loaf-sugar over them. crullers may be made in a plainer way, with the best brown sugar, (rolled very fine.) and without spice or rose-water. they can be fried, or rather boiled, in a deep iron pot. they should be done in a large quantity of lard, and taken out with a skimmer that has holes in it, and held on the skimmer till the lard drains from them. if for family use, they can be made an inch thick. dough-nuts. three pounds of sifted flour. a pound of powdered sugar. three quarters of a pound of butter. four eggs. half a large tea-cup full of best brewer's yeast. a pint and a half of milk. a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. a grated nutmeg. a table-spoonful of rose-water. cut up the butter in the flour. add the sugar, spice, and rose-water. beat the eggs very light, and pour them into the mixture. add the yeast, (half a tea-cup or two wine-glasses full,) and then stir in the milk by degrees, so as to make it a soft dough. cover it, and set it to rise. when quite light, cut it in diamonds with a jagging-iron or a sharp knife, and fry them in lard. grate loaf sugar over them when done. waffles. six eggs. a pint of milk. a quarter of a pound of butter. a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar. a pound and a half of flour, sifted. a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. warm the milk slightly. cut up the butter in it and stir it a little. beat the eggs well, and pour them into the butter and milk. sprinkle in half the flour, gradually. stir in the sugar, by degrees, and add the spice. stir in, gradually, the remainder of the flour, so that it becomes a thick batter. heat your waffle-iron; then grease it well, and pour in some of the butter. shut the iron tight, and bake the waffle on both sides, by turning the iron. as the waffles are baked, spread them out separately on a clean napkin. when enough are done for a plate-full, lay them on a plate in two piles, buttering them, and sprinkling each with beaten cinnamon. soft muffins. five eggs. a quart of milk. two ounces of butter. a tea-spoonful of salt. two large table-spoonfuls of brewer's yeast or four made of home-made yeast. enough of sifted flour to make a stiff batter. warm the milk and butter together, and add to them the salt. beat the eggs very light and stir them into the milk and butter. then stir in the yeast, and lastly, sufficient flour to make a thick batter. cover the mixture, and set it to rise, in a warm place, about three hours. when it is quite light, grease your baking-iron, and your muffin rings. set the rings on the iron, and pour the batter into them. bake them a light brown. when you split them to put on the butter, do not cut them with a knife, but pull them open with your hands. cutting them while hot will make them heavy. indian batter cakes. a quart of sifted indian meal. \ a handful of wheat flour sifted. }mixed. three eggs, well beaten. / two table-spoonfuls of fresh brewer's yeast, or four of home-made yeast. a tea-spoonful of salt. a quart of milk. make the milk quite warm, and then put into it the yeast and salt, stirring them well. beat the eggs, and stir them into the mixture. then, gradually stir in the flour and indian meal. cover the batter, and set it to rise four or five hours. or if the weather is cold, and you want the cakes for breakfast, you may mix the batter late the night before. should you find it sour in the morning, dissolve a small tea-spoonful of pearl-ash in as much water as will cover it, and stir it into the batter, letting it set afterwards at least half an hour. this will take off the acid. grease your baking-iron, and pour on it a ladle-full of the batter. when brown on one side, turn the cake on the other. [footnote: indian batter cakes may be made in a plain and expeditious way, by putting three pints of cold water or cold milk into a pan, and gradually sifting into it (stirring all the time) a quart of indian meal mixed with half a pint of wheat-flour, and a small spoonful of salt. stir it very hard, and it may be baked immediately, as it is not necessary to set it to rise.] flannel cakes or crumpets. two pounds of flour, sifted. four eggs. three table-spoonfuls of the best brewer's yeast, or four and a half of home-made yeast. a pint of milk. mix a tea-spoonful of salt with the flour, and set the pan before the fire. then warm the milk, and stir into it the flour so as to make a stiff batter. beat the eggs very light, and stir them into the yeast. add the eggs and yeast to the batter, and beat all well together. if it is too stiff, add a little more warm milk. cover the pan closely and set it to rise near the fire. bake it, when quite light. have your baking-iron hot. grease it, and pour on a ladle-full of batter. let it bake slowly, and when done on one side, turn it on the other. butter the cakes, cut them across, and send them to table hot. rolls. three pints of flour, sifted. two tea-spoonfuls of salt. four table-spoonfuls of the best brewer's yeast, or six of home-made yeast. half a pint more of warm water, and a little more flour to mix in before the kneading. mix the salt with the flour, and make a deep hole in the middle. stir the warm water into the yeast, and pour it into the hole in the flour. stir it with a spoon just enough to make a thin batter, and sprinkle some flour over the top. cover the pan, and set it in a warm place for several hours. when it is light, add half a pint more of lukewarm water; and make its with a little more flour, into a dough. knead it very well for ten minutes. then divide it into small pieces, and knead each separately. make them into round cakes or rolls. cover them, and set them to rise about an hour and a half. bake them, and when done, let them remain in the oven, without the lid, for about ten minutes. part the third sweetmeats. general directions. in preparing sugar for sweetmeats, let it be entirely dissolved, before you put it on the fire. if you dissolve it in water, allow about half a pint of water to a pound of sugar. if you boil the sugar before you add the fruit to it, it will be improved in clearness by passing it through a flannel bag. skim off the brown scum, all the time it is boiling. if sweetmeats are boiled too long, they lose their flavour and become of a dark colour. if boiled too short a time, they will not keep well. you may ascertain when jelly is done, by dropping a small spoonful into a glass of water. if it spreads and mixes with the water, it requires more boiling. if it sticks in a lump to the bottom, it is sufficiently done. this trial must be made after the jelly is cold. raspberry jelly requires more boiling than any other sort. black currant jelly less. apple jelly. take the best pippin, or bell-flower apples. no others will make good jelly. pare, core, and quarter them. lay them in a preserving kettle, and put to them as much water only, as will cover them, and as much lemon-peel as you choose. boil them till they are soft, but not till they break. drain off the water through a colander, and mash the apples with the hack of a spoon. put them into a jelly bag, set a deep dish or pan under it, and squeeze out the juice. to every pint of juice, allow a pound of loaf-sugar, broken up, and the juice of two lemons. put the apple-juice, the sugar, and the lemon-juice into the preserving kettle. boil it twenty minutes, skimming it well. take it immediately from the kettle, and pour it warm into your glasses, but not so hot as to break them. when cold, cover each glass with white paper dipped in brandy, and tie it down tight with another paper. keep them in a cool place. quince jelly is made in the same manner, but do not pare the quinces. quarter them only. red currant jelly. wash your currants, drain them, and pick them from the stalks. mash them with the back of a spoon. put them in a jelly-bag, and squeeze it till all the juice is pressed out. to every pint of juice, allow a pound of the best loaf-sugar. put the juice and the sugar into your kettle, and boil them twenty minutes, skimming all the while. pour it warm into your glasses, and when cold, tie it up with brandy paper. jellies should never be allowed to get cold in the kettle. if boiled too long, they will lose their flavour, and become of a dark colour. strawberry, raspberry, blackberry, and grape jelly may be made in the same manner, and with the same proportion of loaf-sugar. red currant jelly may also be made in a very simple manner, by putting the currants whole into the kettle, with the sugar; allowing a pound of sugar to a pound of currants. boil them together twenty minutes, skimming carefully. then pour them into a sieve, with a pan under it. let them drain through the sieve into the pan, pressing them down with the back of a spoon. take the jelly, while warm, out of the pan, and put it into your glasses. tie it up with brandy paper when cold. black currant jelly. pick the currants from the stalks, wash and drain them. mash them soft with a spoon, put them in a bag, and squeeze out the juice. to each pint of juice, allow three quarters of a pound of loaf-sugar, put the juice and sugar into a preserving kettle, and boil them about ten minutes, skimming them well. take it immediately out of the kettle. put it warm into your glasses. tie it up with brandy paper. the juice of black currants is so very thick, that it requires less sugar and less boiling than any other jelly. gooseberry jelly cut the gooseberries in half, (they must be green) and put them in a jar closely covered. set the jar in an oven, or pot filled with boiling water. keep the water boiling round the jar till the gooseberries are soft, take them out, mash them with a spoon, and put them into a jelly bag to drain. when all the juice is squeezed out, measure it, and to a pint of juice, allow a pound of loaf-sugar. put the juice and sugar into the preserving kettle, and boil them twenty minutes, skimming carefully. put the jelly warm into your glasses. tie them up with brandy paper. cranberry jelly is made in the same manner. grape jelly. pick the grapes from the stems, wash and drain them. mash them with a spoon. put them in the preserving kettle, and cover them closely with a large plate. boil them ten minutes. then pour them into your jelly bag, and squeeze out the juice. allow a pint of juice to a pound of sugar. put the sugar and juice into your kettle, and boil them twenty minutes, skimming them well. fill your glasses while the jelly is warm, and tie them up with brandy papers. peach jelly wipe the wool off your peaches, (which should be free-stones and not too ripe) and cut them in quarters, crack the stones, and break the kernels small. put the peaches and the kernels into a covered jar, set them in boiling water, and let them boil till they are soft. strain them through a jelly-bag, till all the juice is squeezed out. allow a pound of loaf-sugar to a pint of juice. put the sugar and juice into a preserving kettle, and boil them twenty minutes, skimming carefully. put the jelly warm into your glasses, and when cold, tie them up with brandy paper. plum, and green-gage jelly may be made in the same manner, with the kernels, which greatly improve the flavour. preserved quinces pare and core your quinces, carefully taking out the parts that are knotty and defective. cut them into quarters, or into round slices. put them into a preserving kettle and cover them with the parings and a very little water. lay a large plate over them to keep in the steam, and boil them till they are tender. take out the quinces, and strain the liquor through a bag. to every pint of liquor, allow a pound of loaf-sugar. boil the juice and sugar together, about ten minutes, skimming it well. then put in the quinces, and boil them gently twenty minutes. when the sugar seems to have completely penetrated them, take them out, put them in a glass jar, and pour the juice over them warm. tie them up, when cold, with brandy paper. in preserving fruit that is boiled first without the sugar, it is generally better (after the first boiling) to let it stand till next day before you put the sugar to it. preserved pippins. pare and core some of the largest and finest pippins. put them in your preserving kettle, [footnote: the use of brass or bell-metal kettles is now most entirely superseded by the enamelled kettles of iron lined with china, called preserving kettles; brass and bell-metal having always been objectionable on account of the verdigris which collects in them.] with some lemon-peel, and all the apple-parings. add a very little water, and cover them closely. boil them till they are tender, taking care they do not burn. take out the apples, and spread them on a large dish to cool. poor the liquor into a bag, and strain it well. put it into your kettle with a pound of loaf-sugar to each pint of juice, and add lemon juice to your taste. boil it five minutes, skimming it well. then put in the whole apples, and boil them slowly half an hour, or till they are quite soft and clear. put them with the juice, into your jars, and when quite cold, tie them up with brandy paper. preserved apples are only intended for present use, as they will not keep long. pears may be done in the same way, either whole or cut in half. they may be flavoured either with lemon or cinnamon, or both. the pears for preserving should be green. preserved peaches. take the largest and finest free-stone peaches, before they are too ripe. pare them, and cut them in halves or in quarters. crack the stones, and take out the kernels, and break them in pieces. put the peaches, with the parings and kernels, into your preserving kettle, with a very little water. boil them till they are tender. take out the peaches and spread them on a large dish to cool. strain the liquor through a bag or sieve. next day, measure the juice, and to each pint allow a pound of loaf-sugar. put the juice and sugar into the kettle with the peaches, and boil them slowly half an hour, or till they are quite soft, skimming all the time. take the peaches out, put them into your jars, and pour the warm liquor over them. when cold, tie them up with brandy paper. if boiled too long, they will look dull, and be of a dark colour. [footnote: to preserve peaches whole, pare them and thrust out the stones with a skewer. then proceed as above, only blanch the kernels and keep them whole. when the peaches are done, stick a kernel into the hole of every peach, before you put them into the jars. large fruit will keep best in broad shallow stone pots.] if you do not wish the juice to be very thick, do not put it on to boil with the sugar, but first boil the sugar alone, with only as much water as will dissolve it, and skim it well. let the sugar, in all cases, be entirely melted before it goes on the fire. having boiled the sugar and water, and skimmed it to a clear syrup, then put in your juice and fruit together, and boil them till completely penetrated with the sugar. preserved crab apples wash your fruit. cover the bottom of your preserving kettle with grape leaves. put in the apples. hang them over the fire, with a very little water, and cover them closely. do not allow them to boil, but let them simmer gently till they are yellow. take them out, and spread them on a large dish to cool. pare and core them. put them again into the kettle, with fresh vine-leaves under and over them, and a very little water. hang them over the fire till they are green. do not let them boil. take them out, weigh them, and allow a pound of loaf-sugar to a pound of crab-apples. put to the sugar just water enough to dissolve it. when it is all melted, put it on the fire, and boil and skim it. then put in your fruit, and boil the apples till they are quite clear and soft. put them in jars, and pour the warm liquor over them. when cold, tie them up with brandy paper. preserved plums. cut your plums in half, (they must not be quite ripe,) and take am the stones. weigh the plums and allow a pound of loaf-sugar to a pound of fruit. crack the stones, take out the kernels and break them in pieces. boil the plums and kernels very slowly for about fifteen minutes, in as little water as possible. then spread them on a large dish to cool, and strain the liquor. next day make your syrup. melt the sugar in as little water as will suffice to dissolve it, (about half a pint of water to a pound of sugar) and boil it a few minutes, skimming it till quite clear. then put in your plums with the liquor, and boil them fifteen minutes. put them in jars, pour the juice over them warm, and tie them up, when cold, with brandy paper. [footnote: plums for common use, are very good done in molasses. put your plums into an earthen vessel that holds a gallon, having first slit each plum with a knife. to three quarts of plums put a pint of molasses. cover them and set them on hot coals in the chimney corner. let them stew for twelve hours or more, occasionally stirring them, and renewing the coals. next day put them up in jars. done in this manner they will keep till the next spring.] syrups may be improved in clearness, by adding to the dissolved sugar and water, some white of egg very well beaten, allowing the white of one egg to each pound of sugar. boil it very hard, and skim it well, that it may be quite clear before you put in your fruit. preserved strawberries. weigh the strawberries after you have picked off the stems. to each pound of fruit allow a pound of loaf-sugar, which must be powdered. strew half of the sugar over the strawberries, and let them stand in a cold place two or three hours. then put them in a preserving kettle over a slow fire, and by degrees strew on the rest of the sugar. boil them fifteen or twenty minutes, and skim them well. put them in wide-mouthed bottles, and when cold, seal the corks. if you wish to do them whole, take them carefully out of the syrup, (one at a time) while boiling. spread them to cool on large dishes, not letting the strawberries touch each other, and when cool, return them to the syrup, and boil them a little longer. repeat this several times. keep the bottles in dry sand, in a place that is cool and not damp. gooseberries, currants, raspberries, cherries and grapes may be done in the same manner. the stones must be taken from the cherries (which should be morellas, or the largest and best red cherries;) and the seeds should be extracted from the grapes with the sharp point of a penknife. gooseberries, grapes, and cherries, require longer boiling than strawberries, raspberries or currants. preserved cranberries wash your cranberries, weigh them, and to each pound allow a pound of loaf-sugar. dissolve the sugar in a very little water, (about half a pint of water to a pound of sugar) and set it on the fire in a preserving kettle. boil it nearly ten minutes, skimming it well. then put in your cranberries, and boil them slowly, till they are quite soft, and of a fine colour. put them warm into your jars or glasses, and tie them up with brandy paper, when cold. all sorts of sweetmeats keep better in glasses, than in stone of earthen jars. when opened for use, they should be tied up again immediately, as exposure to the air spoils them. common glass tumblers are very convenient for jellies, and preserved small fruit. white jars are better than stone or earthen, for large fruit. preserved pumpkin. cut slices from a fine high-coloured pumpkin, and cut the slices into chips about the thickness of a dollar. the chips should be of an equal size, six inches in length and an inch broad. weigh them and allow to each pound of pumpkin chips, a pound of loaf-sugar. have ready a sufficient number of fine lemons, pare off the yellow rind, and lay it aside. cut the lemons in half, and squeeze the juice into a bowl. allow a gill of juice to each pound of pumpkin. put the pumpkin into a broad pan laying the sugar among it. pour the lemon-juice over it, cover the pan, and let the pumpkin chips, sugar and lemon-juice, set all night. early in the morning put the whole into a preserving pan, and boil all together (skimming it well) till the pumpkin becomes clear and crisp, but not till it breaks. it should have the appearance of lemon-candy. you may if you choose, put some lemon-peel with it, cut in very small pieces. half an hour's boiling (or a little more) is generally sufficient. when it is done, take out the pumpkin, spread it on a large dish, and strain the syrup through a bag. put the pumpkin into your jars or glasses, pour the syrup over it, and tie it up with brandy paper. if properly done, this is a very fine sweetmeat. the taste of the pumpkin will be lost in that of the lemon and sugar, and the syrup is particularly pleasant. it is eaten without cream, like preserved ginger. it may be laid on puff-paste shells, after they are baked. preserved pine-apple, pare your pine-apples, and cut them in thick slices. weigh the slices and to each pound allow a pound of loaf-sugar. dissolve the sugar in a very small quantity of water, stir it, and set it over the fire in a preserving-kettle. boil it ten minutes, skimming it well. then put in it the pine-apple slices, and boil them till they are clear and soft, but not till they break. about half an hour (or perhaps less time) will suffice. let them cool in a large dish or pan, before you put them into your jars, which you must do carefully, lest they break. pour the syrup over them. tie them up with brandy paper. raspberry jam. allow a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. mash the raspberries and put them with the sugar into your preserving kettle. boll it slowly for an hour skimming it well. tie it up with brandy paper. all jams are made in the same manner. appendix. miscellaneous receipts. contents. a-la-mode beef chicken pudding a boned turkey collared pork spiced oysters stewed oysters oyster soup fried oysters baked oysters oyster patties oyster sauce pickled oysters chicken salad lobster salad stewed mushrooms peach cordial cherry bounce raspberry cordial blackberry cordial ginger beer jelly cake rice cakes for breakfast ground rice pudding tomata ketchup yeast a-la-mode beef a pound of fresh beef weighing from eighteen to twenty pounds. a pound of the fat of bacon or corned pork. the marrow from the bone of the beef, \ chopped together a quarter of a pound of beef-suet, / two bundles of pot herbs, parsley, thyme, small onions, &c. chopped fine. two large bunches of sweet marjoram,\sufficient when powdered to make two bunches of sweet basil, /make four table-spoonfuls of each. two large nutmegs, \ half an ounce of cloves } beaten to a powder. half an ounce of mace, / one table-spoonful of salt. one table-spoonful of pepper. two glasses of madeira wine. if your a-la-mode beef is to be eaten cold, prepare it three days before it is wanted. take out the bone. fasten up the opening with skewers, and tie the meat all round with tape. rub it all over on both sides with salt. a large round of beef will be more tender than a small one. chop the marrow and suet together. pound the spice. chop the pot-herbs very fine. pick the sweet-marjoram and sweet-basil clean from the stalks, and rub the leaves to a powder. you must have at least four table-spoonfuls of each. add the pepper and salt, and mix well together all the ingredients that compose the seasoning. cut the fat of the bacon or pork into pieces about a quarter of an inch thick and two inches long. with a sharp knife make deep incisions all over the round of beef and very near each other. put first a little of the seasoning into each hole, then a slip of the bacon pressed down hard and covered with more seasoning. pour a little wine into each hole. when you have thus stuffed the upper side of the beef, turn it over and stuff in the same manner the under side. if the round is very large, you will require a larger quantity of seasoning. put it in a deep baking dish, pour over it some wine, cover it, and let it set till next morning. it will be much the better for lying all night in the seasoning. next day put a little water in the dish, set it in a covered oven, and bake or stew it gently for twelve hours at least, or more if it is a large round. it will be much improved by stewing it in lard. let it remain all night in the oven. if it is to be eaten hot at dinner, put it in to stew the evening before, and let it cook till dinner-time next day. stir some wine and a beaten egg into the gravy. if brought to table cold, cover it all over with green parsley, and stick a large bunch of something green in the centre. what is left will make an excellent hash the next day. chicken pudding cut up a pair of young chickens, and season them with pepper and salt and a little mace and nutmeg. put them into a pot with two large spoonfuls of butter, and water enough to cover them. stew them gently; and when about half cooked, take them out and set them away to cool. pour off the gravy, and reserve it to be served up separately. in the mean time, make a batter as if for a pudding, of eight table-spoonfuls of sifted flour stirred gradually into a quart of milk, six eggs well beaten and added by degrees to the mixture, and a very little salt. put a layer of chicken in the bottom of a deep dish, and pour over it some of the batter; then another layer of chicken, and then some more batter; and so on till the dish is full, having a cover of batter at the top. bake it till it is brown. then break an egg into the gravy which you have set away, give it a boil, and send it to table in a sauce-boat to eat with the pudding. a boned turkey. a large turkey. three sixpenny loaves of stale bread. one pound of fresh butter. four eggs. one bunch of pot-herbs, parsley, thyme, and little onions. two bunches of sweet marjoram. two bunches of sweet basil. two nutmegs. \ half an ounce of cloves. } pounded fine. a quarter of an ounce of mace. / a table-spoonful of salt. a table-spoonful of pepper. skewers, tape, needle, and coarse thread will be wanted. grate the bread, and put the crusts in water to soften. then break them up small into the pan of crumbled bread. cut up a pound of butter in the pan of bread. rub the herbs to powder, and have two table-spoonfuls of sweet-marjoram and two of sweet basil, or more of each if the turkey is very large. chop the pot-herbs, and pound the spice. then add the salt and pepper, and mix all the ingredients well together. beat slightly four eggs, and mix them with the seasoning and bread crumbs. after the turkey is drawn, take a sharp knife and, beginning at the wings, carefully separate the flesh from the bone, scraping it down as you go; and avoid tearing or breaking the skin. next, loosen the flesh from the breast and back, and then from the thighs. it requires great care and patience to do it nicely. when all the flesh is thus loosened, take the turkey by the neck, give it a pull, and the skeleton will come out entire from the flesh, as easily as you draw your hand out of a glove. the flesh will then be a shapeless mass. with a needle and thread mend or sew up any holes that may be found in the skin. take up a handful of the seasoning, squeeze it hard and proceed to stuff the turkey with it, beginning at the wings, next to the body, and then the thighs. if you stuff it properly, it will again assume its natural shape. stuff it very hard. when all the stuffing is in, sew up the breast, and skewer the turkey into its proper form, so that it will look as if it had not been boned. tie it round with tape and bake it three hours or more. make a gravy of the giblets chopped, and enrich it with some wine and an egg. if the turkey is to be eaten cold, drop spoonfuls of red currant jelly all over it, and in the dish round it. a large fowl may be boned and stuffed in the same manner. collared pork. a leg of fresh pork, not large. two table-spoonfuls of powdered sage. two table-spoonfuls of sweet marjoram, \ powdered. one table-spoonful of sweet basil, / a quarter of an ounce of mace, \ half an ounce of cloves, } powdered. two nutmegs, / a bunch of pot-herbs, chopped small. a sixpenny loaf of stale bread, grated. half a pound of butter, cut into the bread. two eggs. a table-spoonful of salt. a table-spoonful of black pepper. grate the bread, and having softened the crust in water, mix it with the crumbs. prepare all the other ingredients, and mix them well with the grated bread and egg, take the bone out of a leg of pork, and rub the meat well on both sides with salt. spread the seasoning thick all over the meat. then roll it up very tightly and tie it round with tape. put it into a deep dish with a little water, and bake it two hours. if eaten hot, put an egg and some wine into the gravy. when cold, cut it down into round slices. spiced oysters. two hundred large fresh oysters. four table-spoonfuls of strong vinegar. a nutmeg, grated. three dozen of cloves, whole. eight blades of mace, whole. two tea-spoonfuls of salt if the oysters are fresh. two tea-spoonfuls of whole allspice. as much cayenne pepper as will lie on the point of a knife. put the oysters, with their liquor, into a large earthen pitcher. add to them the vinegar and all the other ingredients. stir all well together. set them in the stove, or over a slow fire, keeping them covered. take them off the fire several times, and stir them to the bottom. as soon as they boil completely they are sufficiently done; if they boil too long they will be hard. pour them directly out of the pitcher into a pan, and set them away to cool. they must not be eaten till quite cold, or indeed till next day. if you wish to keep them a week, put a smaller quantity of spice, or they will taste too much of it by setting so long. let them be well covered. oysters in the shell may be kept all winter by laying them in a heap in the cellar, with the concave side upwards to hold in the liquor. sprinkle them every day with strong salt and water, and then with indian meal. cover them with matting or an old carpet. stewed oysters. open the oysters and strain the liquor. put to the liquor some grated stale bread, and a little pepper and nutmeg, adding a glass of white wine. boil the liquor with these ingredients, and then pour it scalding hot over the dish of raw oysters. this will cook them sufficiently. have ready some slices of buttered toast with the crust cut off. when the oysters are done, dip the toast in the liquor, and lay the pieces round the sides and in the bottom of a deep dish. pour the oysters and liquor upon the toast, and send them to table hot. oyster soup three pints of large fresh oysters. two table-spoonfuls of butter, rolled in flour. a bunch of sweet herbs. a saucer full of chopped celery. a quart of rich milk. pepper to your taste. take the liquor of three pints of oysters. strain it, and set it on the fire. put into it, pepper to your taste, two table-spoonfuls of butter rolled in flour, and a bunch of sweet marjoram and other pot-herbs, with a saucer full of chopped celery. when it boils, add a quart of rich milk-and as soon as it boils again, take out the herbs, and put in the oysters just before you send it to table. boiling them in the soup will shrivel them and destroy their taste. fried oysters for frying, choose the largest and finest oysters. beat some yolks of eggs and mix with them grated bread, and a small quantity of beaten nutmeg and mace and a little salt. having stirred this batter well, dip your oysters into it, and fry them in lard, till they are of a light brown colour. take care not to do them too much. serve them up hot. for grated bread, some substitute crackers pounded to a powder, and mixed with yolk of egg and spice. baked or scolloped oysters. grate a small loaf of stale-bread. butter a deep dish well, and cover the sides and bottom with bread crumbs. put in half the oysters with a little mace and pepper. cover them with crumbs and small bits of butter strewed over them. then put in the remainder of the oysters. season them. cover them as before with crumbs and butter. if the oysters are fresh, pour in a little of the liquor. if they are salt, substitute a little water. bake them a very short time. you may cook them in the small scolloped dishes made for the purpose. oyster patties. make some rich puff-paste, and bake it in very small tin patty pans. when cool, turn them out upon a large dish. stew some large fresh oysters with a few cloves, a little mace and nutmeg, some yolk of egg boiled hard and grated, a little butter, and as much of the oyster liquor as will cover them. when they have stewed a little while, take them out of the pan, and set them away to cool. when quite cold, lay two or three oysters in each shell of puff-paste. oyster-sauce. when your oysters are opened, take care of all the liquor, and give them one boil in it. then take the oysters out, and put to the liquor three or four blades of mace. add to it some melted butter, and some thick cream or rich milk. put in your oysters and give them a boil. as soon as they come to a boil, take them of the fire. pickled oysters. four hundred large fresh oysters. a pint of vinegar. eight spoonfuls of salt. a pint of white wine. six table-spoonfuls of whole black pepper. eight blades of mace. strain the liquor of the oysters and boil it. then pour it hot over the oysters, and let them lie in it about ten minutes. then take them out, and cover them. boil the liquor with the salt, pepper, mace, vinegar and wine. when cold, put the oysters in a close jar, and pour the liquor over them. cover the jar very tight, and the oysters will keep a long time. if the oysters are salt, put no salt to the liquor. chicken salad. two large cold fowls, either boiled or roasted. the yolks of nine hard-boiled eggs. half a pint of sweet oil. half a pint of vinegar. a gill of mixed mustard. a small tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper. a small tea-spoonful of salt. two large heads, or four small ones, of fine celery. cut the meat of the fowls from the bones, in pieces not exceeding an inch in size. cut the white part of the celery into pieces about an inch long. mix the chicken and celery well together. cover them and set them away. with the back of a wooden spoon, mash the yolks of eggs till they are a perfectly smooth paste. mix them with the oil, vinegar, mustard, cayenne, and salt. stir them for a long time, till they are thoroughly mixed and quite smooth. the longer they are stirred the better. when this dressing is sufficiently mixed, cover it, and set it away. five minutes before the salad is to be eaten pour the dressing over the chicken and celery, and mix all well together. if the dressing is put on long before it is wanted, the salad will be tough and hard. this salad is very excellent made of cold turkey instead of chicken. lobster salad. take two large boiled lobsters. extract all the meat from the shell, and cut it up into very small pieces. for lobster salad, you must have lettuce instead of celery. cut up the lettuce as small as possible. make a dressing as for a chicken-salad, with the yolks of nine hard-boiled eggs, half a pint of sweet oil, half a pint of vinegar, a gill of mustard, a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and a tea-spoonful of salt. mix all well together with a wooden spoon. a few minutes before it is to be eaten, pour the dressing over the lobster and lettuce and mix it very well. stewed mushrooms. take a quart of fresh mushrooms. peel them and cut off the stems. season them with pepper and salt. put them in a sauce-pan or skillet, with a lump of fresh butter the size of an egg, and sufficient cream or rich milk to cover them. put on the lid of the pan, and stew the mushrooms about a quarter of an hour, keeping them well covered or the flavour will evaporate. when you take them off the fire, have ready one or two beaten eggs. stir the eggs gradually into the stew, and send it to table in a covered dish. peach cordial. take a peck of cling-stone peaches; such as come late in the season, and are very juicy. pare them, and cut them from the stones. crack about half the stones and save the kernels. leave the remainder of the stones whole, and mix them with the cut peaches; add also the kernels. put the whole into a wide-mouthed demi-john, and pour on them two gallons of double-rectified whiskey. add three pounds of rock-sugar candy. cork it tightly, and set it away for three months: then bottle it, and it will be fit for use. this cordial is as clear as water, and nearly equal to noyau. cherry bounce. take a peck of morella cherries, and a peck of black hearts. stone the morellas and crack the stones. put all the cherries and the cracked stones into a demi-john, with three pounds of loaf-sugar slightly pounded or beaten. pour in two gallons of double-rectified whiskey. cork the demi-john, and in six months the cherry-bounce will be fit to pour off and bottle for use; but the older it is, the better. raspberry cordial. to each quart of raspberries allow a pound of loaf-sugar. mash the raspberries and strew the sugar over them, having first pounded it slightly, or cracked it with the rolling-pin. let the raspberries and sugar set till next day, keeping them well covered, then put them in a thin linen bag and squeeze out the juice with your hands. to every pint of juice allow a quart of double-rectified whiskey. cork it well, and set it away for use. it will be ready in a few days. raspberry vinegar (which, mixed with water, is a pleasant and cooling beverage in warm weather) is made exactly in the same manner as the cordial, only substituting the best white vinegar for the whiskey. blackberry cordial. take the ripest blackberries. mash them, put them in a linen bag and squeeze out the juice. to every quart of juice allow a pound of beaten loaf-sugar. put the sugar into a large preserving kettle, and pour the juice on it. when it is all melted, set it on the fire, and boil it to a thin jelly. when cold, to every quart of juice allow a quart of brandy. stir them well together, and bottle it for use. it will be ready at once. ginger beer. put into a kettle, two ounces of powdered ginger,(or more if it is not very strong,) half an ounce of cream of tartar, two large lemons cut in slices, two pounds of broken loaf-sugar, and one gallon of soft water. simmer them over a slow fire for half an hour. when the liquor is nearly cold, stir into it a large table-spoonful of the best yeast. after it has fermented, bottle for use. jelly cake. stir together till very light, half a pound of fresh butter and half a pound of powdered white sugar. beat twelve eggs very light, and stir them into the butter and sugar, alternately with a pound of sifted flour. add a beaten nutmeg, and half a wine-glass of rose-water. have ready a flat circular plate of tin, which must be laid on your griddle, or in the oven of your stove, and well greased with butter. pour on it a large ladle-full of the batter, and bake it as you would a buck-wheat cake, taking care to have it of a good shape. it will not require turning. bake as many of these cakes as you want, laying each on a separate plate. then spread jelly or marmalade all over the top of each cake, and lay another upon it. spread that also with jelly, and so on till you have a pile of five or six, looking like one large thick cake. trim the edge nicely with a penknife, and cover the top with powdered sugar. or you may ice it; putting on the nonpareils or sugar-sand in such a manner as to mark out the cake in triangular divisions. when it is to be eaten, cut it in three-cornered slices as you would a pie. colouring for icing, &c. _to make a red colouring for icing_. take twenty grains of cochineal powder, twenty grains of cream of tartar, and twenty grains of powdered alum. put them into gill of cold soft water, and boil it very slowly till reduced to one half. strain it through thin muslin, and cork it up for use. a very small quantity of this mixture will colour icing of a beautiful pink. with pink icing, white nonpareils should be used. rice cakes for breakfast. put half a pound of rice in soak over night. early in the morning boil it very soft, drain it from the water, mix with it a quarter of a pound of butter, and set it away to cool. when it is cold, stir it into a quart of milk, and add a very little salt. beat six eggs, and sift half a pint of flour. stir the egg and flour alternately into the rice and milk. having beaten the whole very well, bake it on the griddle in cakes about the size of a small dessert-plate. butter them, and send them to table hot. ground rice puodijvg. take five table-spoonfuls of ground rice and boil it in a quart of new milk, with a grated nutmeg or a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, stirring it all the time. when it has boiled, pour it into a pan and stir in a quarter of a pound of butter, and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, a nutmeg and half a pint of cream. set it away to get cold. then heat eight eggs, omitting the whites of four. have ready a pound of dried currants well cleaned, and sprinkled with flour; stir them into the mixture alternately with the beaten egg. add half a glass of rose-water, or half a glass of mixed wine and brandy. butter a deep dish, put in the mixture, and hake it of a pale brown. or you may bake it in saucers. tomata ketchup. slice the tomatas. put them in layers into a deep earthen pan, and sprinkle every layer with salt. let them stand in this state for twelve hours. then put them over the fire in a preserving kettle, and simmer them till they are quite soft. pour them into a linen bag, and squeeze the juice from them. season the liquor to your taste, with grated horse-radish, a little garlic, some mace, and a few cloves. boil it well with these ingredients--and, when cold, bottle it for use. yeast have ready two quarts of boiling water; put into it a large handful of hops, and let them boil twenty minutes. sift into a pan a pound and a half of flour. strain the liquor from the hops, and pour half of it over the flour. let the other half of the liquid stand till it is cool, and then pour it gradually into the pan of flour, mixing it well. stir into it a large tea-cup full of good yeast,(brewer's yeast if you can get it.) put it immediately into bottles, and cork it tightly. it will be fit for use in an hour. it will be much improved and keep longer, by putting into each bottle a tea-spoonful of pearl-ash. finis candy-making at home by mary m. wright two hundred ways to make candy with home flavor and professional finish philadelphia the penn publishing company 1915 copyright 1915 by the penn publishing company candy-making at home contents i. general directions for candy-making 11 utensils 14 ingredients 16 a few things the candy-maker should know 17 the coloring and flavoring 19 ii. the making of fondant 21 fondant 23 chocolate fondant 25 maple fondant 26 iii. hard candies 29 chocolate chips 31 cinnamon jibb 32 fig brittle 32 butter-scotch 32 french butter-scotch 33 maple panocha 33 horehound candy 34 chocolate taffy 34 molasses taffy 35 nut taffy 35 lemon stick candy 35 peppermint stick candy 36 strawberry drops 36 honey peppermint tablets 37 maple tablets 37 fruit tablets 38 rose nougat 38 raisin stickies 39 vanilla taffy 39 salt water taffy 40 taffy dreams with nut centers 40 iv. fudges and caramels 43 chocolate fudge 45 maple sugar fudge 46 burnt almond fudge 46 coffee fudge 47 marshmallow fudge 47 peanut fudge 48 fig fudge 48 divinity fudge 48 cocoanut fudge 49 fruit fudge 49 cinnamon fudge 50 pineapple fudge 50 layer fudges 50 cocoanut marshmallow fudge 51 another cocoanut marshmallow fudge 51 barley fudge 52 coffee caramels 52 cocoanut caramels 53 chocolate caramels 53 sultana caramels 54 nut chocolate caramels 54 vanilla caramels 55 strawberry caramels 55 jelly caramels 55 chocolate cream caramels 56 molasses caramels 57 franconia caramels 57 tutti-frutti caramels 57 butternut caramels 58 carrot caramels 58 v. nut candies 61 chocolate almonds 63 brown almond nougat 63 white nougat 64 peanut brittle 65 almond toffee 65 southern hazelnut toffee 66 mexican panocha 66 pralines 67 cream nut bars 67 maple and butternut cream 68 chocolate nut candy 68 nut bonbons 68 candied chestnuts 69 glacé nuts 70 walnut bonbons 71 peanut molasses candy 71 mexican nut confection 72 nut loaf 72 nut stuffed fruit 73 cherry and almond confection 73 vi. fruit candies 75 quince confections 79 maraschino drops 79 strawberry divinity fudge 79 tutti-frutti cream 80 pear caramels 81 marzipan fruit candies 81 surprise dates 82 marshmallow fruit fudge 83 frosted fruit fudge 83 cherry foam 84 fig favorites 85 pineapple marshmallows 85 fruit chocolate balls 86 watermelon dainty 86 date delight 87 stuffed prunes 87 fruit roll 88 jelly cake candy 88 vii. sea foam and cream candies 91 ginger creams 93 lemon creams 94 peppermint creams 94 maple creams 95 walnut creams 95 cocoanut creams 95 honey creams 96 vanilla sea foam 96 maple foam 97 candied cherry foam 97 nut foam chocolates 98 maple delight 99 viii. bonbons 101 chocolate creams 103 chocolate creams with fruit centers 104 chocolate creams with nut centers 106 how to coat chocolate creams 108 bonbons made with cocoanut 110 nut bonbons 112 fruit bonbons 113 assorted bonbons 115 how to dip with fondant 117 oriental bonbons 118 ix. pop-corn sweets 121 molasses pop-corn balls 124 chocolate pop-corn balls 124 snow pop-corn balls 125 ice pop-corn balls 126 pop-corn dainty 126 crystallized pop-corn 127 pop-corn bars 128 maple pop-corn bars 128 pop-corn macaroons 129 cherokee crisp 129 pop-corn almond nougat 130 pop-corn brittle 130 pop-corn fudge 131 x. macaroons and miscellaneous sweets 133 almond macaroons 135 cream macaroons 135 jasmine macaroons 136 queen macaroons 136 chocolate macaroons 136 cocoanut macaroons 137 hickory-nut macaroons 137 peanut macaroons 137 cherry macaroons 138 coffee macaroons 138 chocolate macaroons 139 pistachio macaroons 139 cinnamon macaroons 140 marshmallows 140 cocoanut marshmallows 141 orange marshmallows 141 buttercups 142 hodge-podge candy 143 candied sweet potato balls 144 persian confection 144 turkish confection 145 arabian confection 146 honeycomb candy 146 turkish delight 147 apple sweetmeats 147 chocolate arabics 148 oriental bonbons 148 candy potatoes 149 divinity hash 149 xi. cake confectionery and little sweets 151 bonbon cakes 153 spice nuts 157 chocolate nuts 158 walnut wafers 158 peanut jumbles 159 cocoanut jumbles 159 fruit rocks 160 raisin spirals 161 fruit bars 161 maple drops 162 ginger chips 162 ginger wafers 163 marshmallow cakes 163 ginger nuts 164 german ginger balls 165 cinnamon crisps 165 chocolate sticks 166 orange cakes 166 cocoanut drops 167 almond cakes 167 peanut wafers 168 german wafers 168 japanese wafers 169 english wafers 169 delicious tea cookies 170 raisin cookies 170 love diamonds 171 marmalade diamonds 171 lemon cakes 172 maple nut wafers 172 vanilla wafers 173 chocolate diamonds 173 coriander cakes 174 peach blossom cakes 175 wild rose cakes 175 cream nut puffs 176 spice fingers 177 caraway cookies 178 daisy cakes 178 vanilla sugar cakes 179 chocolate ginger drops 179 cocoanut fruit drops 180 preserved fruit dainties 181 jelly jumbles 181 chocolate nut wafers 182 lady fingers 182 fruit puffs 183 nut tarts 184 index 185 candy-making at home chapter i general directions for candy-making we find it quite possible to make just as delicious candy at home as can be bought of the most famous manufacturers. of course there are a few kinds of candies that can be made only with the aid of special machinery; but there are enough kinds that can be made with utensils found in the ordinary kitchen (with a few more added) to make all the variety that one may wish for. by making our own candies in the home we have the assurance that they are at least pure and clean, and that they will cost us no more than the cheaper grades of candy. candy-making is very fascinating, and there is no reason whatever why one cannot be a successful candy-maker after a few trials at it. in this first chapter we give a few general directions in candy-making that will make it easier to carry out all the recipes that follow. utensils all the utensils that are needed in candy-making are saucepans of granite or porcelain, a double boiler, spoons, a spatula, candy dipper, platter or marble slab, a thermometer, and boxes or pans in which to mold certain kinds of candies. bonbon molds are useful for molding bonbons, but are not necessary as they can easily be molded with the fingers. a thermometer is not absolutely necessary since one can learn to get the different stages by dropping and testing the syrup in cold water; but the thermometer makes it much easier to get the syrup cooked to exactly the right degree. in buying a thermometer choose one that is guaranteed by its maker, since some thermometers are apt to break when the syrup is boiled to a high degree as it must be in making the hard candies. there are small, reliable candy thermometers on the market that do not cost a great deal, and make it much easier for the candy-maker. while a platter can be used instead of a marble slab in making fondant and some other candies, yet, since the marble is naturally cool, the candy syrups will cool much more quickly on it and for this reason is desirable. in making taffies or any candy that requires pulling a hook is very useful. one can handle more at a time with a hook and pulling makes it lighter and nicer. a sugar scraper proves very useful when it comes to scraping down maple sugar and chocolate; and a food chopper is very convenient when chopping nuts and fruits used in candy-making. a smooth piece of tin can be used for dropping or placing the candies on, after they are made to set and cool; but paraffine paper will take its place very well. one can scarcely get along without this paper in candy-making, for it is very useful in lining candy-boxes when they are to be used as molds, and candies or bonbons that are liable to become sticky can be wrapped in it. a few bowls for dipping purposes will be needed. ingredients granulated sugar is the kind most frequently used in candy-making. to get the best results it should be fine-grained and of the best quality. confectioner's sugar or powdered sugar is used chiefly to roll or dust candies with. almost all confectioners use glucose in their candies, since it helps to keep the sugar from granulating, but, since corn syrup is composed largely of glucose it is advisable for the home candy-maker to use it as it can be readily obtained at the grocery store. a few recipes call for glycerine, and this is quite harmless, and helps to make the candy smooth and creamy. cream of tartar, vinegar and lemon juice are used to prevent the sugar from graining also. the butter used in making butter-scotch, fudges and such like candies should be of the very best quality. never under any circumstances use in candy, stale butter, or substitutes, or butter that is very salty. a few things the candy-maker should know the tests in cold water compared to degrees on the thermometer are as follows: 230 to 235 degrees thread stage. 238 to 240 " soft ball stage. 250 to 255 " hard ball stage. 280 to 290 " crack stage. 300 to 310 " hard crack stage. in testing the syrup with the thermometer allow the thermometer to become hot gradually. if one does not have a thermometer and has to test the syrup in cold water one will have to depend a great deal on sight and touch. the thread stage is found by letting a little syrup drop from a spoon; if it forms a thread then it is known as the thread stage. the soft ball stage is reached when the syrup forms a soft ball between the fingers when dropped in cold water, and the hard ball stage is reached when it makes a firm ball between the fingers when dropped in cold water. the crack stage is reached when it cracks or becomes brittle, and the hard crack stage is reached when all the water has evaporated and the syrup is about ready to burn. at this stage one must watch it very closely. after the sugar has melted when put over the fire, wipe the sides of the kettle down carefully; this removes the undissolved sugar, which is apt to cause the rest to grain if not removed. all scum should be carefully removed as soon as the syrup boils; but be careful not to stir the syrup or jar it any more than possible. candies in which milk, cream or chocolate is used should be boiled in a deep vessel as they have a tendency to boil over. sugar and water and corn syrup will not boil over, so that the depth of the vessel in which they are boiled does not matter so much. hard candies should be loosened up from the tin, or whatever they are molded in, before they are quite cool, or they will stick and be hard to remove. it is well to remember that nearly all hard candies will become sticky in warm weather, so should be kept in glass jars or wrapped in waxed paper. if a batch of candy should become grainy and go back to sugar again it can be boiled over, adding a little more water and corn syrup or cream of tartar; but do not use the same vessel unless it has been well washed. the coloring and flavoring use nothing but fruit or vegetable colorings for candy; these can usually be obtained at a drug store, or from the confectioner. a little of these will go a long way. colorings can be obtained in liquid form or in form of paste. the useful colors are orange, yellow, red, leaf green and violet. with red one can get all the shades of pink, and rose. different shades of green can be made with the green by the amount used. always remember that high colors are not desirable in candy and confine yourself to the paler shades as much as possible. you can obtain different shades by combining two colors; for instance, put a drop or two of red with your violet and you will have another shade, and so on. a good shade can be made with strong coffee. by using different flavoring extracts one may have a great variety in candy. use only pure extracts or oils. when using oil of peppermint or oil of cinnamon for flavoring remember it is very strong and use only a few drops, while from a half teaspoonful to a tablespoonful of extract may be used, according to the strength of flavoring desired. always add the flavoring after the syrup has been removed from the fire, as in most cases it will boil out if put in with the other ingredients. chapter ii the making of fondant the foundation for innumerable cream candies and for nearly all bonbons is what the confectioners call "fondant." this is quite easily made by the home candy-maker after once getting the knack of it; but one must be careful to follow directions closely and not become careless. it has a great advantage from the fact that it can be made up a long time before it is worked into candies, since it will keep for a great length of time. it can be made up in large quantities, but it is best for the amateur candy-maker at first to make it in small quantities at a time, and make it oftener; then as she becomes more adept she may use several pounds of sugar at a making. fondant to make the fondant take two pounds of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of water and one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil this to the soft ball stage or to 238 degrees. stir the sugar over a slow fire until it is thoroughly dissolved; then take a damp cloth and wipe away all the sugar crystals that appear on the sides of the pan. when it is done remove from fire and pour over a large platter that has been cooled or over a marble slab. do not scrape the contents out of pan or allow it to drip, but pour out quickly, then there will be less danger of its graining. let stand until nearly cool (not cold), then stir until it becomes thick and creamy, working it away from the edges of the platter or slab into a mass in the center. use a wooden spoon in creaming the fondant, and it is a good idea to sprinkle a little cold water over the top of the syrup after it has been poured out on the platter; this will prevent a crust from forming on top. when too stiff to work with spoon take it in the hands and knead until it is smooth and velvety. let stand a few hours until it has mellowed somewhat, then pack down in jars and bowls, and cover with a damp cloth. if kept for some time dampen the cloth occasionally. as we said before this fondant will keep for a long time, and one may use it when desired. if a batch should turn grainy after stirring it can be boiled over again, or used in making some other candy, but in either case it must be boiled over again and a little more water added. in making fondant it is best to take a kettle that has not been used for other purposes, or it will give the fondant a taste; also be very careful to have the thermometer clean if one is used. the fondant can be colored and flavored when still warm, or it can be colored and flavored when you warm or melt it when ready to make the bonbons. fondant should cool quickly after it has been poured out on a platter or slab. as marble is naturally cool it is best for this purpose, but a platter may be placed on ice, or dipped in cold water before being used. chocolate fondant the above directions are for white fondant, which is the kind most generally made, but one can make chocolate and maple fondant. to make the chocolate fondant take two cupfuls of sugar and four ounces of grated chocolate and one-half cupful of water. boil to the soft ball stage, flavor with a teaspoonful of vanilla and proceed as when making white fondant. it is best not to add the chocolate until the syrup has boiled a while, then it can be melted and slowly added, for the syrup must not be stirred while boiling. maple fondant to make maple fondant take one cupful of brown sugar and two cupfuls of maple syrup, or one cupful of maple sugar. if the sugar is used add one-half cupful of water. to keep the syrup from graining add one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil to the soft ball stage or to 238 degrees by the thermometer, and then pour out on platter or slab, and proceed as with the white fondant. a good substitute for maple fondant may be made by flavoring with mapleine some of the white fondant. maple fondant is especially good combined with nuts in making bonbons, and also makes nice centers for chocolate creams. in the chapter on bonbons you will find many ways in which the fondant can be used, and many other ways will no doubt suggest themselves to you when you once begin to work with it. chapter iii hard candies many persons prefer the hard candies to the soft varieties. most of these hard candies are boiled to the crack stage or hard crack stage, which is from 280 to 310 degrees. in testing these candies in cold water it is always advisable to remove from the fire while doing so, for when the syrup gets to the turning stage it will burn very soon if not watched. other hard candies will be found classified under the chapter on nut candies, such as peanut brittle, nut nougats, etc. chocolate chips place in a saucepan one cupful of brown sugar, one-half cupful of new orleans molasses (the light colored molasses), and one tablespoonful of butter. boil to the crack stage, then remove from the fire and flavor with one teaspoonful of vanilla. pull into long thin sheets, and cut into small pieces. when cold dip into melted chocolate flavored with a little vanilla. cinnamon jibb place in a saucepan one cupful of golden corn syrup, one-fourth cupful of butter, a tablespoonful of cinnamon, and one-half cupful of water. boil to the crack stage. pour into buttered pans, and mark off into squares. when cool break up. fig brittle take two cupfuls of light brown sugar, one cupful of golden corn syrup and one-half cupful of water. cook to the crack stage, and then stir in figs that have been cut up into bits. pour into a buttered pan, and mark off. when cool break up. date brittle can be made in the same manner. butter-scotch take two cupfuls of light brown sugar, one-half cupful of butter, one-fourth cupful of water and one tablespoonful of vinegar. boil to the crack stage. pour into buttered tins, mark off into squares, and when cool break up. a tablespoonful or two of molasses improves butter-scotch for many persons. french butter-scotch take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of maple sugar, one-half cupful of butter, one tablespoonful of vinegar, and one-fourth cupful of water. cook to the crack stage or to 280 degrees, then remove from fire and add one teaspoonful of vanilla, and one-fourth teaspoonful soda. mark into strips, and when cold cut with a pair of shears. maple panocha take one cupful of maple sugar, one cupful of light brown sugar, two tablespoonfuls of butter, and one-half cupful of water. boil to the crack stage. pour over pecan meats that have been placed on a buttered pan. when cold break in any manner desired. horehound candy take two cupfuls of brown sugar, one cupful of corn syrup, and one-half teaspoonful of cream of tartar. pour over this the horehound liquid made by steeping two ounces of dried horehound (which can be obtained at the drug store) in one pint of hot water. boil down to a cupful before adding to the sugar. if you do not wish it to be very strong of horehound don't use quite so much. boil to the hard crack stage or about 300 degrees. pour into a buttered pan or pans. mark deeply into small squares while still warm, and when cool it will break easily. chocolate taffy take two cupfuls of sugar, one cupful of golden corn syrup, one-half cupful of boiling water, and one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil to the soft ball stage, then add two ounces of unsweetened chocolate shaved fine. boil to nearly the crack stage or about 270 degrees, then add one teaspoonful of vanilla. pour out on a buttered platter, cool and pull. cut into small pieces, using shears or sharp knife, and place on buttered plate or paraffine paper. molasses taffy take two cupfuls of sugar, and one-half cupful of new orleans or baking molasses, and one-half cupful of corn syrup, and a third teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil to about the crack stage. turn out on a greased platter, and when cool enough pull until light colored. cut in small pieces. nut taffy take two cupfuls of light brown sugar, one-half cupful of corn syrup, one-half cupful of water, and one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil to the hard ball stage. add one teaspoonful of vanilla, and one cupful of nut meats, chopped. pour out on a platter, and pull as soon as cool enough. lemon stick candy take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of white corn syrup, one-half cupful of water, and the juice of one lemon. boil all together with half the rind of the lemon to the crisp or crack stage. flavor with one teaspoonful of extract of lemon, and color with yellow coloring. pour out on a buttered platter, and when cool enough pull into sticks, and cut about four inches long. peppermint stick candy make the same as the lemon stick, but omit the lemon, and use one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. after removing from fire flavor with peppermint. divide the candy into two portions, and color one with red coloring. pull each part separately, then twist the red candy around the white till you have it in form of a stick. cut into sticks, and if desired form into canes. strawberry drops take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of corn syrup, the juice of one lemon, and a fourth cupful of water. a tablespoonful of vinegar can be used instead of lemon juice if desired. boil to the hard crack stage. color with red coloring and flavor with strawberry flavoring. drop from a spoon in drops about the size of a nickel onto waxed or greased paper. by flavoring with different flavoring and using different colorings you may have a variety in these drop candies. honey peppermint tablets take one cupful of honey, one cupful of sugar and one-half cupful of white corn syrup, one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar and one teaspoonful of butter. boil to the crack stage, then remove from fire and add one teaspoonful of peppermint extract. drop from a spoon onto oiled paper, about the size of a nickel or quarter. this candy can be pulled if preferred, and cut into pieces. maple tablets melt together in a saucepan one cupful of maple sugar and one cupful of light brown sugar, four tablespoonfuls of butter, one teaspoonful of lemon juice and one tablespoonful of water. boil to the hard crack stage, and drop on oiled paper in drops about the size of a nickel. when partly cool stick two of the drops together. fruit tablets take one cupful of sugar, one-half cupful of corn syrup and one-half glass of currant or any kind of jelly. boil to the crack stage, add a teaspoonful of vanilla, almond or the kind of flavoring that goes best with the jelly used. drop from a spoon on oiled or waxed paper, and when partly cool put two drops together. rose nougat take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful white corn syrup, one-half cupful of water and a fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil to the crack stage. add one-half cupful of finely chopped candied cherries, and color a rose color with fruit or vegetable coloring. let stand for a few moments until partly cool, then pour over the whites of two stiffly beaten eggs. beat well and pour into a buttered mold. cut into squares. one-half cupful of finely chopped almonds can be added if desired and flavored with one-half teaspoonful of almond extract. raisin stickies take one cupful of sugar and one cupful of golden corn syrup and one cupful of finely chopped raisins, and one-half cupful of water and boil to the crack stage. add one-half teaspoonful of cinnamon and one teaspoonful of vanilla. pour into buttered pans, and when partly cool, mark off into sticks about an inch across. twist each stick until twice the original length and cut in two. place on paraffine paper until cool. vanilla taffy place in a saucepan two cupfuls of white sugar, one cupful of white corn syrup, and one-half cupful of water. bring to a boil, then add one teaspoonful of glycerine and a fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil to about 260 degrees or to a little more than the hard ball stage and not quite to the crack stage. pour on a greased platter or a slab, and add a tablespoonful of vanilla. dip your hands in corn-starch and as soon as it cools enough to be handled pull until it is white and waxy. if a hook is used you can make nicer and whiter taffy. remove from hands or hook and lay on waxed paper, and when cold break up; or it can be cut into small pieces while still warm. in summer taffy should be wrapped in waxed paper, since it is liable to become very sticky. salt water taffy this is made the same as the vanilla taffy except that a tablespoonful of butter is added and one teaspoonful of salt. this can be flavored and colored to suit the taste and pulled like the vanilla taffy. in making taffy fold over the edges as it cools and keep folding the batch up until cool enough to pull. taffy dreams with nut centers place in a saucepan two pounds of granulated sugar, one cup of water and one-half teaspoonful cream of tartar or a tablespoonful of lemon juice. boil to the hard ball stage. place some nut meats in a bowl and pour enough of the syrup over these so that they will be well coated. set these in a cool place while pulling the remainder of the taffy. put the syrup over the fire and boil until nearly the crack stage, then remove and flavor with vanilla or almond, or any flavoring desired. pour over a large platter or a marble slab. cool quickly, and then dip your hands in corn-starch and pull the candy until white. form into a sheet about six inches wide while still warm. lay on a tin or slab and spread the nut mixture in the center. fold the edge of sheet over, pinch the edges together so that the nut part cannot be seen. now stretch the candy by pulling it gently and quickly through the palms of both hands. cut into pieces with a sharp knife and lay on waxed paper. nut and fruit combined can be used for the centers, or fruit alone. in this case pour the syrup over them to make them stick together as above. chapter iv fudges and caramels fudge is one of the most easily made, and one of the most popular of all the home-made candies. caramels are also a favorite. these candies can be made a great variety of ways. chocolate fudge take two cupfuls of sugar, two ounces of chocolate, one cup of good milk, and one tablespoonful of butter, or if you wish a richer fudge use two tablespoonfuls of butter. bring the sugar, milk and butter to a boil and cook until it threads or to 235 degrees. add the chocolate which should be melted or shaved fine. stir it in well, then add a teaspoonful of vanilla, and beat up until creamy. the secret of good fudge lies in the beating. some stir constantly from the time it is removed from the fire until it turns creamy, while others let it stand until nearly cool, and then beat up until creamy. pour into buttered pan or mold, and when cold cut into neat small squares. maple sugar fudge take two cups of maple sugar, one cup of milk, one tablespoonful of butter, and one cupful of chopped walnut meats. boil until the mixture forms a soft ball when dropped into cold water, or to about 240 degrees. remove from fire and let stand until nearly cool, then stir until creamy. pour into greased pans, and when cool cut into squares. burnt almond fudge brown blanched almonds in the oven and chop rather coarsely. brown one-half cupful of granulated sugar in a granite pan; then add two-thirds cupful of milk, and when the browned sugar is thoroughly dissolved add one cupful of granulated sugar and one tablespoonful of butter. boil until it makes a firm ball when dropped in cold water; flavor with almond extract and add one cupful of the browned almonds; stir until creamy, then pour into pans and mark off into squares. coffee fudge take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one cupful of strong boiled coffee, one-half cupful of cream and a teaspoonful of butter. boil to the soft ball stage, then add a cupful of chopped nut meats, and stir until creamy. pour into pans and cut into squares. the nuts may be omitted if desired. marshmallow fudge take two cupfuls of light brown sugar, a cupful of milk, a tablespoonful of butter, and a fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil until it threads or to 235 degrees, and then add a half pound of marshmallows. beat until dissolved, add a cupful of chopped walnut meats. pour into buttered pans and cut into squares. another way to make this fudge is to omit the nuts and add two squares of chocolate. peanut fudge take two cupfuls of brown sugar, one cupful of milk, and one teaspoonful of butter. when oily nuts are used in fudge one does not need to use so much butter. boil to the thread or soft ball stage, and then add one cupful of finely ground peanuts and one teaspoonful vanilla. if preferred peanut butter may be used. beat up until creamy, pour into buttered pans, and cut into squares. fig fudge take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one cupful of water, a fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar, one-half pound of figs, one teaspoonful of ginger, and one tablespoonful of butter. boil the mixture to the soft ball stage. remove from the fire and beat up until creamy. pour into a buttered pan and mark into squares. chop the figs before adding. divinity fudge take two cupfuls of light brown sugar, add one-half cupful of golden corn syrup, and one-half cupful of water. boil to the hard ball stage. add one cupful of chopped walnut meats, and one teaspoonful of vanilla; and then pour over the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. beat up until light and foamy. pour into buttered pans, and when cool mark off into squares. cocoanut fudge take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one cupful of milk, one tablespoonful of butter, and one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil to the thread or soft ball stage and then add one cupful of grated cocoanut. beat up until quite creamy. fruit fudge take two cupfuls of light brown sugar, a cupful of milk, a tablespoonful of butter, and a pinch of cream of tartar. boil until it makes a soft ball, then add a fourth pound of marshmallows. beat until dissolved, then add one-half cupful of chopped walnut meats, and a cupful each of chopped dates and figs. beat up until creamy, and pour into buttered pans. cinnamon fudge take two cupfuls of light brown sugar, one cupful of milk, one-half cupful of butter, and two tablespoonfuls of cinnamon. boil to the soft ball stage, remove from the fire and add a teaspoonful of vanilla. beat up until creamy, pour into a buttered mold and cut into squares when cold. pineapple fudge take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one cupful of water, and a pinch of cream of tartar. boil to the hard ball stage, then add one cupful of candied pineapple. pour over the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs, and beat up until light and foamy. layer fudges these are fine and are made by pouring one kind of fudge upon another in layers. for this purpose one should use only the fudges that combine well together. layers of several different kinds of fudge may be used, or only two, as desired. a chocolate fudge with a layer of divinity fudge between is delicious. pour half of the chocolate fudge into a pan, and when cool pour over it a layer of divinity fudge; then when this has cooled pour over the remainder of the chocolate fudge which should have been kept hot in a bowl set in hot water. fruit and nut fudges make a good combination. cocoanut marshmallow fudge take two cupfuls of sugar and one-half cupful of milk and boil up, then add one tablespoonful of butter and boil to the soft ball stage. add a cupful of grated cocoanut and beat up until creamy. arrange some marshmallows in a pan, and pour the fudge mixture over them. when cold cut into squares between the marshmallows. another cocoanut marshmallow fudge take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one cupful of milk and one tablespoonful of butter. boil to the hard ball stage. take it off the fire and add a teaspoonful of vanilla and one cupful of grated cocoanut. mix this in, then add a half-dozen marshmallows. let stand a while until soft; then pour the mixture over the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. beat up until it begins to get creamy, then pour into buttered pans, and when cool cut into squares. barley fudge take a cupful of barley and brown it in the oven; be careful not to burn it, but have it a nice brown. run this through the coffee-grinder. take two cupfuls of brown sugar, one-half cupful of corn syrup, one-half cupful of milk and a tablespoonful of butter. boil to the soft ball stage, add a tablespoonful of vanilla, then stir in the ground barley. stir until creamy and pour out into a buttered pan, and when cold cut into squares. coffee caramels take one cupful of light brown sugar, one cupful of golden corn syrup, one-half cupful of milk, one-half cupful of strong boiled coffee and one tablespoonful of butter. boil to the hard ball stage. remove from the fire, stir in one teaspoonful of vanilla, then pour into buttered pans, and mark off into squares. when cool cut into squares, and wrap each caramel in waxed paper. cocoanut caramels take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of white corn syrup, one-half cupful of cream, or if milk is used add one tablespoonful of butter. boil to the hard ball stage. remove from fire and stir in one cupful of grated cocoanut and one teaspoonful of vanilla. pour into buttered pans, and when cold cut into squares. chocolate caramels take one cupful of light brown sugar, one cupful of golden corn syrup, and one cupful of milk. boil to about 235 degrees or to the soft ball stage, then add one-fourth pound of chocolate. continue to boil to the hard ball stage or about 250 degrees. flavor with vanilla, and pour into a buttered pan about an inch thick. mark off into squares while still warm. sultana caramels put into a saucepan two cupfuls of light brown sugar, one cupful of golden corn syrup, one-half cupful of milk and one-fourth cupful of butter. bring to the boiling point, then add a cupful of sultana raisins and one-half cupful of english walnut meats. boil until it makes a firm ball when dropped into cold water or to about 250 degrees. remove from the fire, add one teaspoonful of vanilla; pour into square greased pans to an inch or half-inch thick. mark off into squares, and press a sultana raisin in the top of each while still warm. when cold cut into squares. nut chocolate caramels place in a saucepan one cupful of brown sugar, one cupful of golden corn syrup, one-half cupful of milk and two tablespoonfuls of butter. boil to the hard ball stage. remove from the fire, add one teaspoonful of vanilla and one cupful of nut meats. turn into square buttered pan, cool and cut into small squares, then dip into melted chocolate. vanilla caramels take two cupfuls of sugar, one-half cupful of milk, and one-half cupful of golden corn syrup. bring to a boil and then add two tablespoonfuls of butter. when nearly done add one square of chocolate. boil to the hard ball stage, then flavor with a spoonful of vanilla. pour into a square pan about an inch thick. mark off in squares while still warm, and cut into cubes when cold. strawberry caramels place in a saucepan one cupful of granulated sugar, one cupful of golden corn syrup and one tablespoonful of butter. boil to the soft ball stage, then add one glassful of whole preserved strawberries, and boil until a hard ball will form between the fingers in cold water or to 250 degrees. turn into a buttered pan, cool, and cut into small squares. jelly caramels take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one cupful rich cream, or if milk is used add a tablespoonful of butter, and one cupful of golden corn syrup. boil to the hard ball stage then add a teaspoonful of vanilla, and pour into separate pans only about a third as thick as the usual caramels. stiffen a glassful of any good jelly with a little gelatine melted in a little cold water. pour this jelly when it begins to stiffen over one of the layers of caramel. let stand until nearly cold, then remove the other layer of caramel from pan and place over the jelly. let stand until perfectly cold, preferably over night, then cut into squares. preserved fruits can be used instead of the jelly, and in this case, especially if the preserves are thick, no gelatine need be used. chocolate cream caramels these are made in the same way as the above except that a layer of fondant is placed between the two layers of caramel. melt the fondant, and pour over the caramel, and when barely cool place the other layer on top. press lightly so that the layers will blend together. when cool cut into squares. molasses caramels take one cupful of brown sugar, two cupfuls of new orleans molasses, one-half cup of milk, and one-half cupful of butter. boil to the hard ball stage, then remove from the fire, and add one teaspoonful of vanilla. pour into a buttered pan, mark off into squares when partly cool, and when cold cut into cubes. franconia caramels take one cupful of light brown sugar, one cupful of molasses, one cupful of milk and two tablespoonfuls of butter. boil to the hard ball stage, then remove from fire and add one-half cupful of walnut meats, and a teaspoonful of vanilla. turn into a buttered pan, and when cool cut into cubes, and dip each one in melted chocolate. tutti-frutti caramels take two cupfuls of light brown sugar, one cupful of golden corn syrup, one-half cupful of milk, one tablespoonful of butter, one-half cupful of chopped dates, one-half cupful of chopped figs, one-half cupful of chopped seeded raisins, and one-fourth cupful each of candied orange peel and citron. a half cupful of black walnut meats will improve this candy. boil to the hard ball stage, stirring often to keep from sticking. remove from fire, add a teaspoonful of vanilla, then pour into buttered pans, and mark off into squares. butternut caramels take two cupfuls of light brown sugar, one cupful of golden corn syrup, one cupful of milk and one tablespoonful of butter. boil to the hard ball stage, then remove from the fire and add one cupful of chopped butternut meats. pour into buttered pans, and when partly cool mark off into squares. when cold cut in cubes with a sharp knife, and wrap each caramel in the paraffine paper. carrot caramels boil some carrots or better bake them until quite tender, then pass through a sieve. to two cupfuls of this carrot pulp add two cupfuls of sugar, one-half cupful of corn syrup, two lemons, using both the juice and grated peel, one-half cupful of finely chopped almonds, also one-half cupful of water. boil to the hard ball stage, and pour into well-buttered pans. when cool cut into cubes. chapter v nut candies many delicious candies may be made by adding nuts to the other ingredients, and since nuts have much food value these candies are healthful and nourishing. chocolate almonds blanch a pound of almonds; this is done by pouring hot water over the almond meats and letting them stand on back of stove for about five minutes when the skins can easily be slipped off. place on a pan in the oven and brown a nice dark brown, but be careful not to let them burn. when cool dip each almond in melted sweet chocolate. brown almond nougat blanch and cut one pound of sweet almonds in slices; lay them on a paper in a pan, and place in the oven until slightly brown. take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of golden corn syrup, and one teaspoonful of lemon juice. melt to a liquid, stirring well, then add the almonds and mix well with the syrup. butter a large platter or marble slab. pour the nougat on this and make it even with a lemon, which should be lightly dipped in oil or melted butter. make it about an inch thick, and cut into strips or bars, or it may be used to line molds. the molds are first slightly buttered on the inside, then a thin layer of nougat is pressed against the form; this must be done while the nougat is still warm. when cool turn out of form or mold, and these may then be filled with candied fruit and whipped cream, candies or ice-cream. white nougat boil two pounds of honey to the crack stage, or nearly to the crack, have the whites of four eggs beaten stiff, and add to the honey. stir over a slow fire until it has reached the crack stage; then add two pounds of blanched almonds cut into strips and slightly browned in the oven. mix all together and pour on platter or marble slab, or else line a nougat frame with wafer paper which can be bought at a confectionery shop, then pour the nougat into the frame, put board and weight on top. peanut brittle take two cupfuls of light brown sugar, one cup of corn syrup, one-half cupful of water, one tablespoonful of butter and cook to the crack stage, then add a teaspoonful of vanilla, and two cupfuls of peanuts that have been slightly roasted, and stir until it begins to turn brown. be careful not to let it burn, or become more than a golden brown in color. add one tablespoonful (level) of soda, stirring it quickly, then pour over a greased platter or marble slab. as soon as it is thin enough to handle, loosen from the platter or slab with a knife, turn over and stretch out very thin. break up into any desired shape when cold. almond toffee take two cupfuls of brown sugar, two tablespoonfuls of butter and one-half cupful of cream and boil to the hard ball stage; then add one cupful of chopped almonds and one teaspoonful of vanilla. boil to the crack stage. pour into buttered pans, and mark off into squares. southern hazelnut toffee melt one-half cupful of butter in a saucepan, add one cupful brown sugar and one cupful new orleans molasses. boil to the hard ball stage, add one cupful of chopped hazelnuts and boil to the crack stage. pour into buttered pan, and mark off into squares. mexican panocha take two cupfuls of brown sugar, one-half cupful of corn syrup, one cupful of sweet milk, one teaspoonful of butter, and one square of chocolate. mix the ingredients and boil to the hard ball stage, stirring the mixture constantly while on the stove. add one cupful of pecan or any chopped nut meats, and pour into buttered pans. when cold cut into squares. pralines take two cupfuls of light brown sugar, one cupful of cream, and boil to the soft ball stage. remove from fire and add one cupful of whole pecan meats, and one teaspoonful of vanilla. stir until creamy, but be careful not to break the nut meats. a good way is to stir until it begins to cream, then add the nuts, and stir until the meats are well mixed with the creamy mass. place in a cool place for a while, then separate the nut meats, keeping each one roughly coated with the cream candy. cream nut bars take two cupfuls of light brown sugar, one cupful of maple sugar, and one cupful of cream and boil to the soft ball stage. remove from the fire and stir in one teaspoonful of vanilla, then stir until it begins to get creamy; add one cupful of finely chopped nut meats. pour into a square pan, mark off into small squares, and press a half nut meat in center of each square. cut into bars when cool, allowing two or three squares to a bar. maple and butternut cream take two cupfuls of maple sugar, and one cup of cream. boil to the soft ball stage. remove from the fire and add one cupful butternut meats, and stir until it turns creamy. pour into buttered pans, and cut into squares. maple and walnut creams may be made in the same manner. place a half of a nut meat on top of each square. chocolate nut candy take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of water, one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and boil to the soft ball stage, then add one-fourth cupful of melted chocolate, one teaspoonful of vanilla and one cupful of nut meats. beat up until creamy. pour into buttered pans, and when cold cut into squares or bars. peanuts, walnuts, pecans or any kind of nuts can be used for this candy. nut bonbons take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of white corn syrup, one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil to the soft ball stage. pour into four different plates. in one plate put a little melted chocolate and a fourth teaspoonful of vanilla, on another plate pour a few drops of red coloring and flavor with strawberry, on another plate pour a little yellow coloring and flavor with orange or lemon. drop about a dozen almonds on each plate, the fourth plate being left white. stir each plate until syrup is creamy, and each nut is well coated with the sugar. separate each nut and place on waxed paper. candied chestnuts take the chestnuts that are to be candied and score each nut on one side with a sharp knife. cover with boiling water, cook five minutes and dry. add a teaspoonful of butter to each pint of nuts, and stir or shake over the fire for five minutes. this loosens the shells and the inner skins, which can now be removed together. cover the shelled nuts with cold water, and to each pound of nuts add the juice of one lemon. let stand in this over night, since this will help to harden the nuts, so they can be boiled without breaking up. in the morning, drain, and simmer slowly for one or two hours, or until the nuts are tender. make a syrup using a pound of sugar to each pound of nuts. add to each two cupfuls of sugar a half cupful of water and cook until thick, add the nuts and simmer slowly for a half hour, then drain; let them stand in the syrup over night, removing them from the fire. the next day boil the syrup until thick as honey. remove the nuts and place on plates and set in the oven or in the sun to dry. boil the syrup down a little thicker, and pour over the nuts several times while drying until all is absorbed. dry the nuts and store between layers of waxed paper in a box. glacé nuts take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of water, and one-half teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil to the hard crack stage or until the syrup begins to turn brown. add a teaspoonful of vanilla. take the nuts to be dipped separately on a long pin, dip into the syrup to cover, remove and place on oiled or waxed paper. almonds, walnuts, hazelnuts, pecans and peanuts can be used for dipping. walnut bonbons place in a saucepan one cupful of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of golden corn syrup, one-half cupful of water, and a pinch of cream of tartar. boil to the hard ball stage, then add one-half teaspoonful of vanilla and one-half cupful of english walnut meats chopped fine. pour over the beaten white of one egg, and beat up until light. when it begins to harden drop on halved english walnut meats and press a half nut meat on the top of each bonbon. peanut molasses candy take one cupful of sugar, one cupful of new orleans or sorghum molasses, and a tablespoonful of butter and boil to the hard crack stage. stir in two cupfuls of peanuts, or just as many as you can, as the more nuts in this candy the better. pour on a greased pan. when cold break into pieces or cut into squares with a very sharp knife. mexican nut confection take two cupfuls of light brown sugar, a quart of sweet milk and boil until the sugar is all melted, then stir in the well beaten yolks of six eggs. boil until thick and smooth, stirring constantly, then add one pound of almonds that have been blanched and worked into a paste, and one teaspoonful of cinnamon. boil to a firm mass, and stir to keep from sticking. this should be made in a double boiler. pour into a buttered mold at least two inches thick, and when very cold slice. this is good dipped in chocolate or fondant. nut loaf take an equal quantity of walnut, hickory-nut, almond and pecan meats and chop fine. to each cupful of nut meats have one-half cupful of chopped fruit, using dates, figs, raisins or candied cherries. work the fruit and nuts well together. for each cupful of this mixture take one cupful of fondant. melt the fondant, and stir the fruit and nut mixture into it; then remove and knead. form this into an oblong loaf, flatten on top. cover with paraffine paper and let stand for several days until the fruit and nuts are well blended with the fondant, then cut into slices. nut stuffed fruit dates are especially nice stuffed with nut meats. remove the stones and insert a salted blanched almond in each, or chop up some walnut meats and work into a paste with a little cream or fondant and insert in the center of the dates. close up and roll the dates in powdered sugar or else dip into fondant. large prunes soaked over night until plump, and then stuffed with chopped almonds or pecan nut meats are fine. large sultana raisins are also good stuffed with nut meats. cherry and almond confection take two cupfuls of sugar, one-half cupful of corn syrup and a half cupful of milk and boil to the soft ball stage. add a half cupful of chopped almonds, one-half cupful of candied cherries, and one teaspoonful almond extract. stir until creamy, pour into buttered pan, and when cold cut into squares. decorate some of the squares with almond meats and others with candied cherries. chapter vi fruit candies some of the most delicious home-made candies are made with the addition of fruits to the other ingredients. all kinds of candied fruits, also many kinds of dried fruits, such as dates, figs, raisins and prunes may be used in candy-making. many may not know that just as delicious candies can be made with our home-preserved fruits. candied fruits are in most cases expensive, but they can be made at home, and therefore the expense cut down. cherries can be candied in the following manner: select nice, large, and not over-ripe cherries for this purpose. stone them carefully. weigh the cherries, and to each pound of the fruit add two pounds of sugar, using only the best granulated for this purpose. put the sugar in a kettle with one-half cupful of water, and boil to a thick syrup, removing all scum as it arises. place a few of the cherries in at a time, and let simmer slowly until the fruit is transparent. remove the fruit with a strainer, and add more of them until all have been cooked in this manner. then place them back in syrup and let them stand over night in it. in the morning remove and place them out in the sun. it is a good idea to place them in a sieve, spreading them over it, and then cover the sieve with netting. they can be dried in the oven if desired, but one must be careful that they do not burn. when dried place in boxes between layers of paraffine paper, sprinkling each layer with powdered sugar. place in a dry place until ready to use them in making candies. pears, quinces, pineapples, peaches and plums may all be candied. select firm-textured fruit and boil until tender in water before placing in the syrup; then proceed as in candying the cherries. orange and lemon rind may also be candied. remove the skin from the oranges or lemons in quarters and simmer in water until soft; then drain and remove all the white portion by scraping with a silver knife or spoon. cut the oranges or lemons into small strips with the scissors, cook in the thick syrup, and roll in granulated sugar. quince confections melt some fondant in a bowl, flavor with orange or lemon. put some preserved quinces into the oven until dry. dip each quarter into melted fondant. place on oiled paper to dry. preserved pineapple can be used in the same way. maraschino drops take maraschino cherries. dip into melted white or pink fondant that has been flavored with almond extract; then when hardened dip into melted chocolate fondant, or melted chocolate. strawberry divinity fudge place in a saucepan two cupfuls of granulated sugar, half a cupful of water and a fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil to the hard ball stage. add one glassful of whole preserved strawberries and boil up again. pour the mixture over the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs and beat up until light and foamy. when the mixture begins to harden pour into buttered pans and when cool cut into squares. any thick preserved fruits can be used in the same way. preserved strawberries and preserved pineapple are good combined, half and half of each being used. if pear preserves are used a little chopped ginger will be an improvement. tutti-frutti cream melt one pound of fondant in a double-boiler, add one teaspoonful of vanilla or orange flavor; then add one tablespoonful of strawberry preserves (using only the berries), one tablespoonful of preserved cherries, two tablespoonfuls of preserved or candied pineapple, and one tablespoonful each of peach and pear preserves. the addition also of a teaspoonful each of candied orange and lemon peel will improve the mixture. when partly cool pour into a mold for slicing or form into bonbon shapes. if not quite stiff enough add powdered sugar to make of the right consistency to mold nicely. these can be rolled in powdered sugar or dipped in colored melted fondant or coated with chocolate. pear caramels place in a saucepan two cupfuls of light brown sugar, one cupful of corn syrup, half a cupful of good milk and one tablespoonful of butter. boil for a few minutes, then add one cupful of preserved pears, half a cupful of chopped candied ginger and a fourth cupful of candied lemon peel. boil to the hard ball stage, add one teaspoonful of orange flavor and pour into pans. when cold cut into squares. peach caramels are made in the same manner, only instead of the candied ginger a cupful of chopped almonds is added, the orange or lemon peel is omitted and almond extract used. marzipan fruit candies delicious fruit candies can be made by using marzipan paste. to make this paste take one cup of blanched almonds and run them through a food chopper; then pound to a fine flour. place in a bowl and add to this flour the same amount of powdered sugar. use enough water, rose water, orange juice or grape juice to make stiff paste--about three ounces will be enough. beat an egg up stiff and work it into the paste. roll out the marzipan an inch thick and cut into rounds or squares. place a bit of preserved fruit on each one and mold the paste up around it. place in the oven until the candies are dry. another way to make the paste is to boil the ingredients. use about three ounces of rose water or other liquid to the amount of almonds and sugar given above. stir over a slow fire until when touched with the finger the syrup will cling. when cool knead into a paste. surprise dates select some nice large dates and remove the stones. fill some of the cavities with chopped raisins, figs, nuts and so forth, and some with chopped candied cherries; try to have the varieties of fillings as great as possible. fondant with several different flavorings may also be used. dip some of these stuffed dates in chocolate fondant, some in different colored fondants and some in plain white. every date eaten then will prove to be a surprise and delight. marshmallow fruit fudge tear out a piece from the center of each marshmallow, being careful not to make a hole quite through it. fill the cavities thus formed with any good preserved fruit. make a chocolate fudge and pour it over the marshmallows, which should have been placed on greased paper in a pan. be sure that the fruit is entirely covered. when cold cut out in cakes; they can be dipped in chocolate or left as they are. these are delicious and will prove an agreeable surprise to those who have never eaten them before. frosted fruit fudge make a good chocolate fudge, beating it until creamy, and pour it into a greased pan to about an inch in depth. when this is almost hard cover with any thick preserved fruit desired. then place in a kettle one cup of granulated sugar, a fourth cupful of water and a pinch of cream of tartar. when the mixture has boiled to the hard ball stage pour it over the stiffly beaten white of one egg, add a teaspoonful of vanilla, or the kind of flavoring that will combine best with the fruit used, and beat up until light and foamy. pour this over the fruit in the pan. when cold cut into squares, and you will have a delicious candy. nut meats can be mixed in with the fruit. almonds are also very good combined with peach preserves. cherry foam place in a saucepan two cupfuls of granulated sugar, half a cupful of water and a fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil until it forms a hard ball. just before taking the syrup from the fire stir in a cupful of preserved cherries--the clear, transparent kinds are best. pour the mixture over the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs and beat until light and foamy. lay whole candied cherries two inches apart on waxed or greased paper and drop the foam by spoonfuls on these, pressing candied cherries on top of each. this candy is not only delicious but pretty to the eye as well. fig favorites select the best quality of figs and steam until soft, then make an incision in each lengthwise and stuff with chopped nut meats. close and place on a buttered pan. boil together two cupfuls of sugar, one-half cupful of water, and one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil until it will make a hard ball when dropped into cold water, flavor with a little vanilla, and then pour over the stuffed figs. when nearly cold mark off into squares, then dip in melted chocolate. pineapple marshmallows soak four ounces of gum arabic in one cupful of pineapple juice until dissolved; then strain through cheese-cloth. put into a saucepan with one-half pound of best powdered sugar and place saucepan in a pan of hot water on the stove. stir the mixture until it becomes thick and white. drop a little into cold water, and if it becomes a firm ball, remove from the fire and whip into it the stiffly beaten whites of three eggs. flavor with a teaspoonful of vanilla. dust a square pan with corn-starch and pour in the mixture until an inch thick. let it stand in a cool place for twelve hours, then cut it into inch squares and roll in a mixture of powdered sugar and corn-starch. fruit chocolate balls take one cupful each of dates, seeded raisins and english walnut meats. pass through a food chopper. form into balls, and dip into melted chocolate fondant. watermelon dainty take two cupfuls of sugar, one-fourth cupful of water, one tablespoonful of white corn syrup, and a pinch of cream of tartar and boil until it spins a thread or to 230 degrees. pour over the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs, and beat up until light and foamy. add one teaspoonful of vanilla, one cupful of chopped preserved watermelon rind, and one-half cupful of chopped nut meats. color pink with a little red fruit or vegetable coloring. pour into a buttered pan or mold to cool and cut into squares. date delight take two cupfuls of light brown sugar, one cupful of milk, and one tablespoonful of butter. boil to the soft ball stage. add a teaspoonful of vanilla, and one cupful of chopped dates. beat up until creamy. pour into buttered pan or mold, and cut into squares when cold. stuffed prunes remove the stones from the prunes. crack the stones and chop up the pits. add the chopped pits to chopped dates, and fill the cavities of the prunes with the mixture. dip the prunes in melted fondant. another way to stuff the prunes is to stone some dates, fit a cherry inside of each date, then fit the date into the prune, and dip in the fondant. the prunes should be soaked in water for several hours before stuffing, and should be drained and wiped dry. prunes filled with fondant or fondant and nuts mixed are also delicious. fruit roll cook two cupfuls of brown sugar, one-half cupful of golden corn syrup and one-fourth cupful of water until it spins a thread. remove from the fire and add the grated rind of one lemon and one orange, and a teaspoonful of the juice of each, one cupful of seeded raisins, one cupful of english currants, one-half cupful of cocoanut, one-half cupful of dates, and one-fourth cupful of figs; these fruits should all be run through a food chopper. stir all until it forms a mass. roll out into a thin sheet, and then roll up like a jelly roll, and cut into thin slices. jelly cake candy melt some fondant and pour into a square or round mold. candy boxes lined with waxed paper will do. when cool place over this a thin layer of some thick jelly, such as currant, red raspberry, or orange; then pour over this another layer of fondant, and when this has cooled spread with another thin layer of jelly and pour over the top some more fondant. the layers of fondant may be colored differently if desired, and flavored to suit the jelly used. when cold turn out of mold, and cut into thin slices. chapter vii sea foam and cream candies sea foam and cream candies are delicious, and very easily made by the home candy-maker. sea foam candies are those in which the white of egg is used, while the cream candies are made much after the same manner as fondant is made, except that cream is used instead of water. ginger creams place in a saucepan two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of cream, one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar or a few drops of acetic acid and one-half teaspoonful of glycerine. boil until it forms a soft ball when dropped into cold water or to about 240 degrees; then pour the syrup on a large platter and when it has become slightly cool cover with candied ginger cut into thin strips--about one-half cupful will be enough. work with a wooden spoon from the sides of the dish until it becomes creamy and smooth; then gather up in the hands and knead thoroughly. roll out into a sheet and cut into thin bars, laying a strip of ginger on each bar and pressing it in with the finger. lemon creams place in a saucepan one cupful of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of cream, the grated rind of one lemon. boil to the soft ball stage; color with a few drops of yellow coloring and when slightly cool beat up until creamy. form into bonbons and decorate with candied lemon peel. peppermint creams place in a saucepan two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-fourth cupful of white corn syrup, one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and one-half cupful of cream. boil to the soft ball stage. let stand until nearly cool, then flavor with six drops of oil of peppermint, or one-half teaspoonful of extract, and add a few drops of red coloring to make a light shade of pink. beat up until creamy and form into mint shape. wintergreen creams can be made by flavoring with wintergreen. maple creams place in a saucepan two cupfuls of light maple sugar and one-half cupful of cream. boil to the soft ball stage, then stir in one cupful of finely chopped nut meats, and one teaspoonful of vanilla. beat until creamy, and pour into a buttered pan. cut into small squares. these are good dipped in melted chocolate. walnut creams take two cupfuls of light brown sugar, one-half cupful of golden corn syrup, and one-half cupful of cream. boil to the soft ball stage, add a cupful of finely chopped walnut meats, and a teaspoonful of vanilla. beat until the mixture becomes creamy, then pour into buttered pan, and when cold mark off into small squares. cocoanut creams take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-fourth cupful of white corn syrup, one-half cupful of cream, and one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil to the soft ball stage, then add one teaspoonful of vanilla, and one-half cupful of shredded cocoanut. stir until creamy, and pour into buttered pan. can be formed in bonbon shape or poured into buttered pan. honey creams take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, two tablespoonfuls of strained honey, and one-half cupful of water. boil to the hard ball stage, then remove from fire and stir in one-half teaspoonful of almond extract, and a half cupful of chopped almonds. pour over the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. beat up until light and foamy, and drop from a spoon on greased paper. decorate the top with almonds. vanilla sea foam take two cupfuls of light brown sugar, one-half cupful of water, and one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil to the hard ball stage or to 250 degrees. remove from the fire and flavor with one teaspoonful of vanilla, then pour over the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. beat up until light and foamy, and drop from a spoon on greased paper or a buttered plate. these are fine dipped in melted chocolate. maple foam take two cupfuls of maple sugar, one cupful of brown sugar, one-half cupful of water, and a fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil to the hard ball stage, then add a dozen marshmallows cut up into bits. cover and let stand for five minutes, then pour over the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. beat up until light and it begins to harden. drop from a spoon on greased paper, and place a half walnut meat on top of each piece of candy. candied cherry foam place in a saucepan two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of water and one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil to the hard ball stage, and just before removing from the fire stir in a cupful of candied cherries cut into bits; then stir the mixture over the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs, add a few drops of red coloring, just enough to make a delicate pink, and beat up until light and it begins to harden. drop from a spoon on waxed or greased paper, and garnish each drop with a candied cherry. this candy is not only pretty to the eye but delicious as well. nut foam chocolates place in a saucepan two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of water and one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil to the hard ball stage. add a teaspoonful of vanilla and pour over the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs and beat until foamy. drop from a spoon on a greased paper or buttered plates that have been spread with chopped nut meats. press chopped nut meats over the top, then set aside to cool. when cool dip into melted chocolate or melted chocolate fondant. these will be light and foamy in the inside and delicious to the taste. maple delight take one cupful of maple sugar, and one cupful of light brown sugar, one-fourth cupful of golden corn syrup and one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil for a few minutes then add one-half cupful of chopped raisins, and one-half cupful of walnut or pecan nut meats. boil to the hard ball stage, flavor with vanilla, and pour over the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. drop from spoon on waxed paper, and place a sultana raisin on top of each drop. chapter viii bonbons the foundation for nearly all bonbons is fondant. hundreds of varieties of bonbons can be made by using different flavorings and different combinations of one kind with another. bonbon making is fascinating work, and after they are made the home candy-maker has the satisfaction of knowing that she has a pure delicious candy at much less expense than if she bought it. chocolate creams many may be surprised to know that they can make several hundred different varieties of chocolate creams alone. the simplest chocolate creams are made by dipping the plain fondant, after it has been formed in bonbon shapes, into melted chocolate. these fondant centers may be flavored with vanilla, peppermint, wintergreen, pineapple, orange, lemon, banana, almond, pistachio, cinnamon, allspice and clove, rose and other kinds of flavors found in the market. certain kinds of flavors can also be combined, which helps to add to the variety. maple chocolate creams are made by dipping maple fondant into melted chocolate. plain fondant, chocolate fondant and maple fondant are all fine combined with nuts. all sorts of candied fruits, preserved fruits and dried fruits are delicious combined with fondant in making these creams. candied peels and candied ginger are also much used. chocolate creams with fruit centers maraschino cherries, drained and dipped first in melted fondant flavored with almond, and then coated with chocolate, are delicious. bits of candied pineapple dipped into fondant flavored with pineapple, lemon or orange and then coated with the chocolate, are fine. work some thick pear preserves into fondant, add a little chopped candied ginger, and when cool coat with chocolate. or before coating them with chocolate dip in fondant flavored with lemon or vanilla. peach preserves dried in the oven, cooled and dipped in almond flavored fondant, then coated with chocolate, is another good combination. whole strawberry preserves, drained of all juice, rolled in powdered sugar, then coated with chocolate, are delicious. chopped candied cherries mixed into melted fondant either flavored with vanilla or almond, formed into bonbon shape, then coated with melted chocolate, are fine. some of these cherry centers may be left white and red, or the fondant used can be colored rose and pink with a few drops of red fruit coloring. candied lemon rind, orange rind or citron can be cut up into small pieces, worked into fondant, and then coated with chocolate. yellow fondant flavored with orange or lemon can be used with orange and lemon rind. stiff marmalades and jellies can be cut into fancy shapes, dipped into melted fondant of different flavors, and when cool coated with chocolate. dates and raisins chopped fine and worked into fondant make excellent centers. mix some chopped dates with maple fondant for these centers. chopped dates and chopped figs or raisins combined and worked into maple fondant are delicious. california grapes dipped into melted fondant, and then into melted chocolate make another variety of creams. chocolate creams with nut centers almonds, walnuts, pecans, hazelnuts, hickory-nuts, peanuts and brazil nuts can all be used in making centers for chocolate cream candies. the nuts should be first blanched. put two cupfuls of fondant in a double boiler and melt, add a teaspoonful of lemon juice, stir over the fire until melted; then take the nut meats, one by one, on a candy dipper or fork and dip into the fondant. lay on oiled or paraffine paper until cold, then dip into melted chocolate. the fondant may be divided if preferred and flavored with different flavors, and prepared with different colors. cherry flavored fondant is excellent with almonds. vanilla goes well with most nuts, and many like peppermint flavor with nuts. maple flavored fondant is always excellent with nuts. take equal quantities of chopped walnuts, hickory-nuts and almonds. these should be chopped fine. take an equal amount of fondant and melt in a double boiler, and stir in the nut meats; flavor with vanilla if the fondant has not already been flavored. when the fondant mixture begins to harden mold into bonbon shape, and place on paraffine paper or a sheet of clean tin. when entirely cool coat with chocolate. delicious bonbons can be made by grinding up pistachio nuts until fine, and mixing with an equal quantity of pale green or white fondant flavored with pistachio or almond. when cool enough shape in bonbons, and coat with chocolate. chop equal quantities of almond nut meats and candied cherries, or preserved cherries. mix with a little fondant, roll into balls and coat with chocolate, and you have a delicious cream. take walnut meats and dip in melted fondant, and when this has become firm dip in more fondant of a different flavor and color. repeat this twice, then when cold coat with chocolate. any kind of nut meats may be used in the same way. how to coat chocolate creams most confectioners use a bittersweet chocolate with which they coat their chocolates; this may be obtained at any good confectionery shop and will cost about fifty cents a pound, but if this is not obtainable a bittersweet chocolate can be made by combining sweetened chocolate with baker's bitter chocolate. use half and half of each, and blend well together before dipping the chocolates in it. any one who likes the bitter tang in the chocolates may use the bitter chocolate by itself. a small amount of cocoa butter may be added to the melted chocolate; this will make it go further and add to the glossy effect without being harmful. melt your chocolate in a double boiler, and always be very careful not to get any water into it or it will not harden, but be messy and sticky. stir while melting and it will do so more quickly, and the less heat it takes to melt the chocolate the better. after the chocolate is melted it can be placed in bowls or cups for dipping. there are two or three ways of coating chocolate creams. most confectioners put the chocolate on with their fingers, but if one does not care to do this they can be dipped with a candy dipper or fork into the melted chocolate. they may also be coated with a thin bladed knife or spatula. if you are going to put the chocolate on with the hands it should be allowed to get nearly cool, and then knead well. only use a small portion at once or it will get too hard, then you must work quickly in a warm room. use your right hand for coating, and throw the centers into the chocolate with your left. work the chocolate up around the centers quickly, and then drop on a waxed paper or on clean, smooth tin. string up a little of the chocolate on top and twirl with the fingers to give that twist that is found on most bought creams. for many dipping is much easier. drop the centers into the melted chocolate, turn over, lift out with wire dipper or fork, with a knife scrape off any surplus chocolate and place on waxed paper or on tin. set in a cool place immediately to harden. if a knife is used for coating, place a little of the chocolate on oiled or waxed paper, and place the centers on top of it; this forms the bottoms. then with a knife spread chocolate over the sides, dipping the knife into the chocolate until the centers are entirely coated. if the chocolate hardens before all the creams are dipped it can be melted again. bonbons made with cocoanut cocoanut cubes are made by taking two cupfuls of fondant and melting it in a double boiler, stir in one cupful of grated cocoanut and mix in well. pour this into a square box lined with paraffine paper; it should be about an inch thick. when cold cut into squares. this cocoanut mixture may be variously tinted and given unusual and elusive flavors, and thus one may have a variety. another way to make cocoanut cubes is to melt some fondant and pour half of it in a square or oblong box lined with paraffine paper. then cover this over with cocoanut a half inch, then pour over the remainder of the fondant. this is especially good if the fondant is colored rose or pink. when cold cut into cubes. a combination of chocolate fondant and cocoanut is excellent. melt a cupful of chocolate fondant and pour into a square or oblong box lined with paraffine paper. melt a cup of pink or white fondant in a double boiler and stir in one-half cupful of cocoanut. pour over the chocolate fondant. snowballs can be made by taking one cupful of fondant and melting it, then stir in one-half cupful of grated cocoanut. form into balls, roll in beaten egg white and then roll in grated cocoanut until thickly covered. place on paraffine paper until they harden. cocoanut drops are made by mixing with two cupfuls of melted fondant one-half cupful of grated cocoanut and one-fourth cupful of finely chopped candied cherries. add a teaspoonful of juice of maraschino cherries. drop from a spoon on paraffine paper, and press a candied cherry in the center of each bonbon. nut bonbons divide some fondant into four parts. color one part pink, one part yellow, add to the third violet, and to a fourth green pistachio coloring. flavor each portion with a different flavoring extract. take some halved walnut meats and blanch. form the fondant into round balls the size of hickory-nuts; put a half walnut on each side of the fondant ball and press them together so that the fondant is between the two halves of the walnuts. by using some chocolate fondant, some maple fondant and some white fondant you can have these bonbons in seven colors. chop up a half cupful each of almonds, pecans and walnuts and mix with enough fondant to make it of the right consistency to mold into bonbon shape with the hands. dip in melted maple fondant, or chocolate fondant. chop up some almonds fine and mix with some fondant, using about a half cupful of nut meats to each cupful of fondant, flavor with almond, and pour into a square or oblong box lined with paraffine paper. melt some white fondant and mix with it a half cupful of chopped candied cherries, pour over the nut fondant, and when this has cooled pour over another layer of nut fondant. cut into cubes and press an almond in some of the cubes and candied cherries in others. fruit bonbons remove the stones from nice large dates, fill the cavities with fondant of different flavors and colors. if preferred these may be dipped in fondant, or left as they are. prunes may be stuffed with fondant or a fondant and nut mixture, and then dipped in fondant of different colors. chop up some figs until fine, work into this an equal quantity of nut meats. roll up into balls; if not moist enough add a little cream. dip into melted fondant. raisins are also good prepared in this manner. dip into maple fondant. melt some fondant in a double boiler, and stir into it candied orange peel cut into tiny strips. pour in a lined box or greased square or oblong pan. when partly cool mark off into squares and decorate the top of each square with a tiny star cut out of the candied orange peel. the fondant should be flavored with orange. candied lemon peel can be used in the same way, and in this case the fondant should be flavored with lemon. when cool cut into squares. candied cherries can be cut up into bits and stirred into pale pink fondant flavored with rose. press little hearts cut out of candied cherries in the center of each square. to make a delicious fruit loaf melt one-half cupful of fondant, add a half teaspoonful extract of almond or vanilla, and stir in two tablespoonfuls of candied cherries cut in quarters, and a tablespoonful of chopped angelica. when mixed pour into a lined candy box in an even layer. melt one-half cupful of chocolate fondant and stir into it one-fourth cupful of chopped dates and flavor with vanilla. pour over the other layer in the box. melt one-half cupful of maple fondant and stir into it one-fourth cupful of chopped nut meats, and pour over the other layers. cover with paraffine paper and set where it will cool quickly. when firm, break down the sides of the box and cut into slices or cubes. any kind of fruit may be used in the different layers. sections of oranges or tangerines may be dipped in fondant, but one must be careful that they are not broken in any way to let the juice escape as this will probably soften the fondant and make it messy. any preserved fruit, dried in the oven, cooled and then dipped in different colored fondant makes delicious bonbons. preserved strawberries can be dipped in fondant colored pink and flavored with strawberry extract. preserved cherries can also be dipped in pink or white fondant flavored with almond or cherry. pears and yellow peaches are good dipped in yellow fondant flavored with lemon or orange. quince preserves are also good dipped. assorted bonbons the plain white fondant flavored with vanilla is good dipped in the pink, yellow, green or violet fondant, or in maple fondant; form the white fondant in pretty bonbon shapes before dipping. pretty marbles can be made by taking a small piece of two or more colored fondants in the hand and rolling them around until they become smooth and round and beautifully streaked with the different colors. place on paraffine paper and turn often to prevent their flattening on one side, until firmly set. roll out some of the different colored fondant in sheets, place one upon the other, roll gently with the rolling pin until the colors are blended together, then cut into bars or squares. form fondant into tiny cones, tucking into each cone a bit of preserved ginger, well dried before using. dip in different colored fondant. some can be dipped in melted chocolate also. work into a half cupful of fondant one teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, flavor with a drop or two of oil of cinnamon, and form into balls. dip these in chocolate fondant. other spice bonbons can be made by using a few drops of the oil of allspice, cloves or nutmeg in flavoring the fondant. peppermint and wintergreen wafers can be made by taking some white fondant and coloring it a pale green and flavoring it with peppermint extract. drop from a spoon on paper the size of a quarter. wintergreen wafers can be made by coloring the fondant pink and flavoring with wintergreen extract. take some fondant and flavor with orange and color a deep yellow; roll out in a long strip about two inches wide. flavor some more fondant with banana extract and color a light yellow. form this into a long round stick shape and place in the center of strip. bring the two edges of the outside fondant together, and press together. cut off neatly with a knife in half-inch pieces when cool. how to dip with fondant just a word in regard to the dipping, and preparing the fondant for dipping. place the fondant in a double boiler or in a bowl and place the bowl in a saucepan of hot water. the fondant should be melted to about the consistency of thick cream. be careful that it does not get too hot or it will become a syrup again. stir occasionally while melting and this will help it to melt not only evenly, but more quickly. if the fondant is very dry a few drops of water may be added, but be very careful not to get too much water in or the bonbons will not harden up well. when ready to dip remove the fondant from the fire, but let the bowl remain in the hot water. take up the centers to be dipped on a candy dipper or fork and drop into the bowl, then lift them out, scrape off any surplus fondant with a knife, and drop on oiled or waxed paper or smooth tin slightly oiled. these will harden very quickly. one can make a twist on the top of them like the chocolates, but this must be done just as soon as dipped. the fondant can be flavored and colored in any way desired while it is melting. oriental bonbons these cream chocolates are more difficult to make than the common chocolate creams, but one is well repaid for the trouble for they are simply delicious. to make them take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of water, one-half teaspoonful of glycerine and one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar or three drops acetic acid. stir until the sugar is dissolved, then wipe down the sides of the kettle to remove all sugar crystals. boil to exactly 238 degrees, then pour out on a platter or marble slab and flavor with one-half teaspoonful of vanilla. allow it to stand undisturbed until all heat has left it, then place over it the white of one egg beaten until very stiff, then cream the batch as you do in making fondant, but work it very slowly, as this gives it more chance to become firm. if it is too soft to work up in shape of bonbons, just let stand a little while, and then shape. in molding remember the less they are handled the easier they will be to coat, as handling has a tendency to soften them. coat immediately after being molded, and this must be done as quickly as possible. place on paraffine paper and let stand a day or so, and then the centers will be like whipped cream, as the white of egg will mellow the cream. chapter ix pop-corn sweets excellent, inexpensive and nourishing sweets may be made with popped pop-corn. for making these sweets the pop-corn kernels should be large, crisp and with no hard centers. the best way to pop corn to obtain these results is first to use good pop-corn, then put enough corn in the popper just to cover the bottom of popper. pour some cold water over it and hold the popper some distance from the heat at first. continue this for three or four minutes, then place more directly over the heat. the fire over which corn is popped should be hot, even and steady. shake the popper quickly and steadily until nearly all the grains have popped. when commencing to pop almost every grain should pop open at once. the cold water poured over the corn causes a steam to generate; this makes the corn swell and burst open from the very center in large, crisp, fine flavored kernels. if not ready to make the candy as soon as the corn is popped store in paraffine bags or glass jars and close up tightly, since popped corn soon gets tough if exposed to dampness. molasses pop-corn balls take one cupful of light brown sugar and one cupful of new orleans molasses, half a cupful of water and boil to the hard ball stage, then add two tablespoonfuls of butter. boil to the crack stage, then add a half teaspoonful of soda and pour over some freshly popped corn in a bowl. stir until the syrup is evenly distributed over the corn, but be careful not to break the grains in doing so. dip the hands in water, take a portion of the pop-corn up into the hands and press into nice even round balls. chocolate pop-corn balls pop some corn and pick out only the large crisp, tender grains. place in a saucepan two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of water and one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil until it spins a thread or forms a hard ball when dropped in cold water; then flavor with a teaspoonful of vanilla. pour part of this sugar syrup over the pop-corn, stirring until the syrup is evenly distributed through the pop-corn; while doing this let the remainder stand on the back of the stove. form into tiny pop-corn balls with the fingers, boil the remaining syrup to the crack stage, then dip each ball into this, and place on paraffine paper until cool. when cool dip into melted sweet chocolate. snow pop-corn balls take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of white corn syrup, one-half cupful of water and a pinch of cream of tartar. boil to the soft ball stage, then flavor with a few drops of peppermint extract or a half teaspoonful of vanilla and pour over the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. beat up until light and it begins to harden, then stir in two cupfuls of crisp pop-corn grains. dip the hands into corn-starch and mold while still warm into small balls. roll each ball in cocoanut, and then wrap in paraffine paper to keep their shape until cold. unwrap and heap on plate. ice pop-corn balls take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of water and one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil to the crack stage and pour over pop-corn in a bowl, stirring until the syrup is well mixed with the corn. form into small balls with the hands. while still warm roll the balls in pulverized or finely chopped rock candy to simulate ice. pop-corn dainty place in a saucepan two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of water and one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil to firm ball. just before removing from the fire stir into the syrup a pint of pop-corn that has been run through the food chopper. pour over the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs, flavor with a teaspoonful of vanilla and beat up until light and foamy; then pour into greased pans, and cut into squares, or drop from a spoon on paraffine paper, and press a whole pop-corn grain into the top of each. these are also nice if crystallized pop-corn in different colors is used for decoration. crystallized pop-corn take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, two tablespoonfuls of white corn syrup and one-half cupful of cream and boil to the soft ball stage. divide into four portions, pouring each portion on a buttered plate, and flavoring differently with strawberry, orange, maple and melted chocolate respectively. beat the portion on each plate until creamy, coloring the portion that is flavored with strawberry pink, the orange flavored with yellow. one portion may be left white if liked, or the amount of syrup may be doubled and divided into more portions. place each kind of the mixture in cups or bowls. select very large, crisp kernels of corn and dip one by one into the different mixtures until all is used. dry them on greased or waxed paper. one may use a hat pin to dip with. these grains may be used to decorate other sweets or may be served in little baskets or odd receptacles. pop-corn bars take two cups of sugar, one-half cupful of water and boil to the hard ball stage. add vanilla flavoring or any desired flavoring. crush some fresh pop-corn with a rolling pin, and stir into the syrup. when the corn has been perfectly mixed with the syrup press into a square or oblong buttered pan to the depth of about an inch, patting it smooth on top. when cool cut into bars with a very sharp knife. maple pop-corn bars cook two cupfuls of maple sugar and one cupful of cream to the hard ball stage. beat up until it begins to turn creamy, then stir in a pint of large, crisp kernels. see that the syrup is well mixed through the corn. turn into a square or oblong pan that has been well buttered and press until flat on top, but not hard enough to crush the kernels. if liked it can be shaped into bars with the hands, and there will not be so much danger of crushing the kernels. if shaped in a pan cut into bars with a sharp knife. pop-corn macaroons run some freshly popped corn through the food chopper, or else chop up with a knife until fine. to a cupful of these add an equal quantity of blanched almonds that have been pounded to a paste. put these together in a bowl. beat up whites of three eggs until stiff, then add about one-half a cupful of sugar and beat up for about five minutes. mix the pop-corn and paste into this slowly until thoroughly blended. drop from a spoon on oiled or buttered paper in a pan and sprinkle with powdered sugar. bake in a moderate oven for about twenty minutes. the centers of these can be decorated with crystallized pop-corn. cherokee crisp take two cupfuls of light brown sugar, one-fourth cupful of new orleans molasses, and one-half cupful of water. melt over the fire until all the sugar is dissolved, add two tablespoonfuls of butter. sprinkle some salt over a quart of freshly popped corn in a bowl. flavor the syrup with a teaspoonful of vanilla after it has reached the hard crack stage and pour over the corn. turn out on a large platter or marble slab and work until a very thin sheet. when cold break into pieces. pop-corn almond nougat take two cupfuls of white sugar, one-fourth cupful of water and one-fourth cupful of corn syrup. melt over the fire until the sugar is dissolved, then stir in one cupful of chopped pop-corn and one-half cupful of chopped almonds. boil to the hard crack stage, flavor with a little almond extract, and pour over buttered pans in thin sheets. when cold break into pieces or cut into squares with a sharp knife. pop-corn brittle take a cupful of granulated sugar, one cupful of brown sugar, one-half cupful of golden corn syrup and one-fourth cupful of water. melt to a syrup, then boil to the hard ball stage, add one-fourth cupful of butter and boil until it begins to turn color or to the hard crack stage. place in a bowl two quarts of freshly popped corn and one cupful chopped peanuts. pour the syrup over the corn and stir until all the kernels and nuts are covered with it. if not to be so thick with pop-corn and nuts use only a quart of pop-corn. pop-corn fudge take two cupfuls of white sugar, one cupful of milk, two tablespoonfuls of butter and a pinch of salt. boil to the soft ball stage. flavor with a half teaspoonful of almond extract, then stir in one cupful of chopped pop-corn and one-half cupful of chopped peanuts or any nuts desired. stir until creamy and pour out on buttered pans, and when cool cut into squares. chapter x macaroons and miscellaneous sweets under this head you will find recipes for making macaroons, which are closely allied to candies; and a number of sweets not classified. almond macaroons to the beaten whites of six eggs add eight ounces of blanched and powdered almonds. with the yolks of the eggs beat one pound of powdered sugar; add the grated rinds of two lemons, a little sliced citron and one-fourth pound of flour, and mix well together. beat lightly into this the almond whip. drop from a spoon on greased paper, and bake in a moderate oven until done. cream macaroons beat the whites and the yolks of six eggs separately. add to the yolks three pounds of powdered sugar and the same amount of flour. add the whites of the eggs and enough flavored whipped cream to mix well; pour into molds, and bake a delicate brown. jasmine macaroons into the whites of six eggs beaten until stiff mix one cupful of powdered sugar; then beat into this some jasmine flowers. make into small cakes, sprinkle with sugar, and bake in a moderate oven. queen macaroons mix the beaten whites of six eggs with the yolks of four; add one cupful of sugar and flour and a small quantity of coriander seed. drop from a spoon on waxed paper and bake in a moderate oven. chocolate macaroons take one-fourth pound of grated chocolate, three ounces of blanched and pounded almonds, and a half cupful of granulated or powdered sugar. mix well together, then make into a soft paste with the stiffly beaten whites of eggs. drop by teaspoonfuls on greased paper. bake about one-half hour in a moderate oven. cocoanut macaroons take one cup of sugar, two cupfuls of grated cocoanut, and two tablespoonfuls of flour. blend well together; then make into a paste with the stiffly beaten whites of three eggs. hickory-nut macaroons beat up the whites of three eggs until stiff, add slowly one cup of sifted granulated sugar, or powdered sugar and one cupful of hickory-nut meats chopped fine, and rolled. bake slowly in a moderate oven until a light brown. if desired these can be flavored with a little vanilla, about a half teaspoonful. all macaroons should be dropped by spoonfuls on greased paper. peanut macaroons pass one cupful of peanuts through a food chopper, using the fine cutter. place in a bowl and add one cupful of powdered sugar, one tablespoonful of flour and blend together into a paste with the whites of two or three eggs beaten until stiff. drop from a spoon on greased paper and bake in the oven for about thirty minutes or until a light brown in color. a halved peanut can be placed in the center of each macaroon before baking if desired. cherry macaroons take a cupful of almonds, chop and rub into a paste, add a cupful of sugar, then add gradually the whites of three eggs. chop a few candied cherries fine and stir in. drop from a spoon on buttered paper, place a candied cherry in the center of each macaroon, and bake in a moderate oven. coffee macaroons blanch a half pound of almonds and pound to a paste. mix into this two tablespoonfuls of very strong coffee in liquid form. use enough coffee to form into a paste; then add the stiffly beaten whites of four eggs and two cupfuls of white sugar. shape into macaroons, and place on greased or paraffine paper on a pan. bake for about ten minutes in a hot oven. decorate the centers with a candied cherry or any candied fruit. chocolate macaroons grate four ounces of chocolate very fine and mix with it a tablespoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of cinnamon, one cupful of powdered sugar, and a pinch of cream of tartar. stir this gradually into the stiffly beaten whites of six eggs, and add a teaspoonful of vanilla. line pans with oiled or waxed paper and drop by spoonfuls on this, and bake in a slow oven for about twenty or thirty minutes. the centers of these can be decorated with halves of walnut, pecan or hickory-nut meats. pistachio macaroons pound a half pound of pistachio nuts to a paste, add to this an equal amount of almond paste, and two cupfuls of sugar. work into this slowly the stiffly beaten whites of six eggs, or enough to make the paste of the right consistency for macaroons. bake in a moderate oven. these make pretty pale green macaroons. cinnamon macaroons run through a chopper one cupful of almonds, then rub into a paste, mix with an equal quantity of sugar, a tablespoonful of ground cinnamon, one-fourth cupful of finely grated chocolate, then work in carefully the whites of four eggs. drop on greased paper, and bake in a moderate oven. marshmallows soak two ounces of gelatine in one-half cupful of water for an hour. boil two cupfuls of sugar, one-half cup of water, and one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar until it spins a thread. pour the gelatine on a platter and over this pour the syrup. beat up for twenty or thirty minutes. flavor with a teaspoonful of vanilla, if desired, adding it just before the beating up. pour into well greased cake tin; let stand till solid. turn out on powdered sugar, cut in squares, and roll in powdered sugar, and keep in a closed jar or box. cocoanut marshmallows take two cupfuls of sugar, add a half cupful of water and heat until the sugar is dissolved, then stir in one-half box of gelatine that has been soaked for a few hours in a little water. let stand until partially cool, then add a pinch of salt, a teaspoonful of vanilla, a cupful and a half of shredded cocoanut, and the stiffly beaten whites of three eggs. stir well, then pour into deep pans well dusted with corn-starch and powdered sugar. the mixture should be at least a half inch thick. turn out on powdered sugar and corn-starch, cut into cubes, and roll in the powdered and corn-starch mixture until each marshmallow is well coated, then roll in cocoanut. orange marshmallows soak two ounces of gelatine in one cupful of orange juice until dissolved, then strain through cheese-cloth, put into saucepan in a pan of hot water on the stove and add one cup of sugar. stir the mixture until it is thick and white. heat until a little stirred on a cold plate will form a creamy ball, remove from the fire and whip into the mixture the stiffly beaten whites of three eggs. flavor with orange extract, using about a teaspoonful. whip with silver fork until it begins to thicken. pour into pan well dusted with corn-starch and powdered sugar; when cool cut in squares and roll in powdered sugar. buttercups take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of water and one-half teaspoonful of cream of tartar and boil to the crack stage. remove from the fire, flavor with one teaspoonful of lemon extract and color yellow with a few drops of yellow fruit or vegetable coloring. when cool enough to handle, pull the yellow candy in a long sheet about two inches wide. in the center of this lay a roll of white or chocolate fondant as long as the strip of candy. wrap the yellow candy around this fondant, and pull out gently in the hand until you cannot tell where it has been joined. when about cool cut with scissors into lengths of an inch or less. hodge-podge candy place in a bowl one cupful of chopped roasted peanuts, one cupful of chopped pecan meats, one cupful of grated cocoanut, one-half cupful of finely chopped citron, one-fourth cupful each of candied orange and lemon peel, two teaspoonfuls of vanilla and two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. take two cupfuls of brown sugar, one cupful of granulated sugar, one cupful of molasses, and one-half teaspoonful of salt. boil to the soft ball stage, then add two squares of chocolate and a tablespoonful of butter. boil to the hard ball stage, add one teaspoonful of vanilla, then pour over the nut and fruit mixture in the bowl. stir until it begins to get creamy and thick, then put into the pans quickly, spreading it even with a spoon. mark off into squares, and when cool cut. this can be varied by adding different kinds of fruits and nuts. candied sweet potato balls take some good sweet potatoes, peel them, and then scoop out little balls with a vegetable scoop. boil these balls in slightly salted water until tender enough to pierce with a splint. remove from the fire and drain off the water. take two cupfuls of sugar and one-half cupful of water and cook to a thick syrup, add a teaspoonful of vanilla and part of the potato balls, dropping them in carefully to prevent breaking. let them simmer until they are coated with a thick coating and are transparent or clear. remove one at a time with a skimmer or fork, and drop on paraffine paper. these should harden up on the outside, and make a delicious confection. persian confection take two cupfuls of granulated sugar and dissolve in one-half cupful of pineapple juice. place over the fire in a double boiler, and when it boils add an ounce of best gelatine that has been soaked in a little water. cook for twenty minutes, then stir in one cupful of finely chopped dates and one-half cupful of finely chopped almonds. stir well, then pour into a pan dusted with corn-starch and powdered sugar. let stand for twelve hours, and then cut into squares and roll in powdered sugar. turkish confection take two cupfuls of granulated sugar and one-half cupful of water, place in a double boiler and bring to a boil, then add one ounce of best gelatine (pink or red gelatine can be used) that has been dissolved in a half cupful of cold water. bring to the boiling point and let it simmer for twenty minutes. remove from the fire and add one cupful of orange juice, two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, the grated rind of one orange, and the grated rind of one-half lemon. dust a pan with corn-starch and powdered sugar, pour in the mixture and let stand for about twelve hours or until perfectly cool and firm. cut into cubes and dust with powdered sugar. arabian confection take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar and one-half cupful of water. boil to the soft ball stage, then add two ounces of best gelatine which has been soaked in three-fourths cupful of water for about two hours or until dissolved, juice of one lemon and one cupful of finely chopped figs, or figs and dates mixed. stir until the mixture thickens, then pour into pan dusted with corn-starch and powdered sugar to an inch or half inch in depth. let stand until perfectly cool and firm, then cut into cubes and dust with powdered sugar. honeycomb candy place in a saucepan two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of water, one tablespoonful of butter and two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. boil to the hard ball stage. just before removing from the fire add one teaspoonful of vanilla or any flavoring desired, and a little coloring if you wish a colored candy. pour on a buttered plate or pan, and when cool enough to handle pull quickly with ends of fingers. stretch out on board to harden. cut into strips. if rightly made this candy will look like honeycomb, being porous and brittle when cold. turkish delight soak the contents of a box of granulated gelatine in two-thirds cupful of orange juice for fifteen minutes. take off the fire, add the juice of a lemon, one-half cupful of preserved pears, one-half cupful of candied ginger and candied lemon peel combined. pour into a pan dusted with a mixture of corn-starch and powdered sugar. let stand until cool, then cut in cubes. apple sweetmeats grate two large white raw apples into the unbeaten whites of two eggs, beat up until thick and stiff, then gradually add one cupful of sugar. dissolve two tablespoonfuls of gelatine in a half pint of good cream, sweeten to taste, and when cool beat up until light and firm and snow white. fold the apple mixture into the whipped cream and pour into molds. roll in powder after the bonbons have been turned out of the molds. chocolate arabics melt in a double boiler a cake of unsweetened chocolate. melt in a bowl some fondant flavored with any preferred flavoring. buy some gum-drops and dip these in the fondant and place on paraffine paper to harden; then dip in the melted chocolate. a little vanilla can be added to the melted chocolate. by dipping gum-drops in this manner their character is entirely changed, and much improved. oriental bonbons soak a half pound of gum arabic in two cupfuls of water until soft. stir into it two cupfuls of confectioner's sugar and cook over the fire in a double boiler until an opaque thick mass. when it forms a firm ball remove from fire and stir in the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs, one-half cupful of orange jelly and one-half cupful of grated cocoanut. make depressions in a pan of corn-starch and pour a little of the mixture into each depression. when cool remove and dust with powdered sugar. candy potatoes take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of water, and one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar. boil to the soft ball stage. work into this one-half cupful of nut meats that have been pounded to a paste and one-half cupful of grated cocoanut. pour on a platter or marble slab and work with a spoon until it is cool enough to work with the hands, and then knead until it is like dough. sprinkle some ground cinnamon on a sheet of waxed paper. take pieces of this dough and form into potato shape. roll in the cinnamon. lay on paper until firm. divinity hash take two cupfuls of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of maple sugar, one-half cupful of golden corn syrup, and a cupful of water, add a pinch of cream of tartar. boil to the soft ball stage. add one teaspoonful of vanilla, and pour over the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs. have ready one pound of chopped fruit, nuts and grated cocoanut and stir in just before it is ready to pour into buttered pans. after pouring the syrup over the whites of eggs beat up until light and foamy. any kind of fruit, such as dates, citron, figs, raisins, candied cherries and orange and lemon peel can be used, and also any kinds of nuts. this is a hash, but a delicious one. chapter xi cake confectionery and little sweets delicious bonbons may be made with cake and fondant, and then there are many little sweets that are so closely allied to candies that they may well be included in a book on candy-making. to make these confections one needs to have fancy little cake cutters of all kinds, such as heart, star, round, diamond, leaf, bird and animal shapes. if these are not readily obtained a tinsmith will make them for you if you tell him just what you desire. you will also need a pastry bag with a finely pointed tube, and tiny gem pans. bonbon cakes the cakes that are best for making bonbons are the sponge cake, pound cake and angel food cake: these should be at least twenty-four hours old, and then can be cut up into any shape desired without breaking or crumbling. scoop out little balls, using a vegetable scoop, from any of these cakes and dip in melted fondant flavored with different flavors and colored in different colors. if you are planning a luncheon or entertainment it is nice to have these little cake bonbons to help carry out the color scheme. angel food cake cut in fancy shapes and dipped into pink or rose fondant flavored with rose extract is good. sponge cake is nice dipped into yellow fondant flavored with orange or lemon, or into chocolate fondant. these little cake bonbons can be made with delicious fillings. cut a sheet of angel food cake, which should be about an inch thick, into tiny hearts. with a small round cutter remove the center of each, leaving the bottom one-fourth inch thick. fill this little hollow with candied pineapple or any candied fruit mixed with a little fondant, or with chopped nuts worked into a little fondant. then dip in red or pink fondant; these are nice for st. valentine's day or for bridal occasions. take some sponge cake and cut into slices about an inch thick, cut out with a small star-shaped cutter. cut out half-way through with a smaller star cutter. fill these hollows in with a chocolate custard. spread a little white of egg on edges of stars, and place two stars together, then dip in yellow fondant, or chocolate fondant. dip these little cakes in the fondant with a fork just as you would other bonbons and drop on paraffine paper to harden. little rose confections can be made by dipping small round cakes in rose colored fondant, and laying on top of each a few candied rose petals, arranged to look like a rose. violet confections can be made by cutting small round cakes out of angel food cake, dipping them in violet fondant and decorating the top with candied violets. cut tiny stars out of a thin sheet of angel food cake or pound cake, dip in white fondant, and cover the tops over with the tiny silver or gold coated confectionery that one can obtain at the confectionery shops, and you will have silver and gold stars, which will be nice for christmas. cut some sponge cake or pound cake into little squares, dip into melted maple fondant, and decorate the top with halved walnuts, pecans or almonds. cut some sponge or pound cake into slices an inch thick, then cut into cubes, make a little slit in one side, slip in a bit of preserved ginger, candied citron or orange rind. dip in yellow fondant flavored with lemon or orange. cut out some sponge cake to resemble sections of orange. dip in orange fondant flavored with orange. little heart shaped cakes dipped in pink or white fondant and then decorated in the center with little hearts cut out of candied cherries are nice. squares or rounds of angel food cake dipped in fondant, and pressed with some sort of die, say a wish-bone, horseshoe, swastika or flower, then the impression made filled in with a different colored fondant carefully piped in with the pastry bag, are unique. cut out some of the cake with a leaf-shaped cutter. dip into a leaf-green fondant flavored with pistachio, and you will have pretty cakes. the leaf can be veined with chocolate put on with the pastry bag and pipe. cut out some sponge cake in shape of dominoes, dip in white fondant, and then mark the dots as in dominoes with melted chocolate. slice some sponge cake a fourth of an inch thick, and cut out with a cutter in small rounds. on one-half of these cakes spread jelly of different kinds, such as peach, currant, and raspberry. put the unspread cakes on these, and cover with fondant. in flavoring the fondant use what combines with the jelly used--almond flavoring with the peach jelly, chocolate with currant and so on. use differently colored fondants and they will look very pretty. spice nuts take two eggs, one cupful of granulated sugar, one-fourth cupful of almond meats, one-fourth cupful of citron, one-half teaspoonful each of cinnamon, allspice and cloves, one cupful of flour, and one teaspoonful of baking-powder. cut the nuts and citron up very fine. sift the flour and baking-powder together and mix with the nuts, fruit and spices. beat up the eggs and sugar until light and thick, then gradually add the flour mixture. the dough should be stiff enough so that it can be formed into little balls about the size of a hickory-nut. if too stiff add a little water, if not stiff enough add a little more flour to make it of the right consistency. drop on buttered tins about an inch apart and bake in the oven until a light brown. chocolate nuts take one cupful of flour and add to it one tablespoonful of baking-powder. sift into a bowl and add one cupful of sugar. mix well together. melt one-half cupful of grated chocolate in a tablespoonful of hot water, add two teaspoonfuls of vanilla and half a teaspoonful of soda. beat up two eggs, add the chocolate and one-fourth cupful of melted butter. work into the flour and sugar mixture. the dough must be stiff enough to form into balls the size of a hickory-nut. drop on greased tins an inch apart. when cool dip in chocolate fondant. walnut wafers cream one cupful of butter with one and one-half cupfuls of sugar; add three beaten eggs; put two cupfuls of chopped walnut meats into one cupful of flour, and add this to the batter. sift one teaspoonful of baking-powder and one and one-half cupfuls of flour together, and add at the last. drop by spoonfuls on buttered tins, dust with granulated sugar, and put a whole walnut meat on each one. bake them in a moderate oven. peanut jumbles take two tablespoonfuls of butter, one cupful of sugar, one egg, half a teaspoonful of soda, one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, one tablespoonful of milk, and flour enough to make a soft dough. roll thin and cut with a jumble cutter, brush over with beaten egg and cover lightly with chopped peanuts. bake separately the small rounds cut from the center. cocoanut jumbles beat half a cupful of butter and half a cupful of sugar to a cream, flavor with a teaspoonful of vanilla, then add two eggs, a cupful of freshly grated cocoanut, and two cupfuls of flour sifted with a level teaspoonful of baking-powder. pat and roll out thin on a well-floured board, adding more flour if needed. flour a jumble cutter well and cut into rings. brush the tops of the cakes with milk and sprinkle with a mixture of granulated sugar and cocoanut. place far enough apart on buttered pan so that they will not touch when baked. bake in a rather hot oven until a pale brown. fruit rocks cream one cup of sugar with two-thirds cup of butter, add one and a half cupfuls of flour, two eggs, one cupful of english walnut meats, one cupful of chopped raisins, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, one teaspoonful of cream of tartar and one-half teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little water. drop by teaspoonfuls on buttered tins an inch or more apart. press one-half of an english walnut meat or a raisin in the center of each, and bake until a nice brown. raisin spirals take one cup of sugar, one-half cupful of butter and yolks of two eggs, and beat to a cream. add one cupful of sour milk and one cupful of chopped raisins; one-half teaspoonful each of cinnamon and nutmeg. dissolve one teaspoonful of soda in a little of the milk. just before putting in the flour add the beaten whites of two eggs. make a very stiff dough and cut into thin strips about five inches long. roll around the finger and fry in butter a delicate brown. fruit bars mix together one cupful of butter and one cupful of brown sugar until creamy, add two well-beaten eggs, one-half cupful of sour milk and scant teaspoonful of soda if the milk is thoroughly sour, if not use only half a teaspoonful. beat up together, then add enough flour to make a dough that will roll nicely but be careful not to get it too stiff. flour the board well, then roll out thin and cut with a narrow oblong cutter. put through a food chopper one pound of stoned dates and one-half pound of figs. work together and then roll in a thin sheet. put a layer of this fruit paste between every two of the cakes in sandwich fashion. bake in a hot oven. marmalades or candied fruits or nut and fruit mixtures can be used for these bars. maple drops to a half cupful of maple syrup add one teaspoonful of melted butter, one well-beaten egg and one cup of flour sifted with a teaspoonful of baking-powder. add a pinch of salt. beat and drop by spoonfuls or half-spoonfuls on buttered tin, and bake in a quick oven. cover with maple fondant. ginger chips stir together a cupful of butter and one cupful of brown sugar. add one tablespoonful of ginger and one teaspoonful each of cloves and cinnamon. mix in two cupfuls of good baking molasses and the grated peel of a large lemon. add a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little hot water. mix in enough flour to make a stiff paste. roll out very thin, a small portion at a time, and cut into narrow strips about one inch wide and four inches long. bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes. ginger wafers stir one-fourth cupful of butter and one-half cupful of sugar to a cream, add two eggs, the whites and yolks beaten separately. add a half cupful of flour or just enough to make a thin batter, mix well, then add one tablespoonful of ginger, and the grated peel of a lemon. drop by spoonfuls on buttered tins, far enough apart not to run together. bake in a moderate oven, and when half done roll up into little cylinders, and return to the oven and crisp until brown. marshmallow cakes blanch and dry gently in the open oven sufficient hickory-nut meats to fill three-fourths of a cup. cool and chop very finely. beat three eggs, yolks and whites together, until light. add the nuts, two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, a half teaspoonful of orange extract and sufficient flour to form a soft dough. roll out on board until about an inch in thickness and cut in small diamonds that measure only two or three inches from point to point. lay on shallow greased tins and bake to a pale brown in a moderate oven. frost with marshmallow icing while they are still warm. ginger nuts take one pint of baking molasses and add one-half cupful of melted butter, one cupful of brown sugar and one tablespoonful of powdered ginger. stir these ingredients well together, and while mixing add two tablespoonfuls of candied lemon or orange peel, one tablespoonful of candied angelica cut into small dice, and a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little warm water. having mixed all thoroughly together break in one egg and work in as much flour to form a paste just stiff enough to handle. form into balls, and press a raisin or blanched almond in the top of each, and bake on greased tins in a rather quick oven. german ginger balls beat up four eggs until very light and foamy; then add gradually a half pound of light brown sugar, a teaspoonful of ginger, and one-half teaspoonful of allspice or cinnamon, the juice of one lemon and three-fourths cupful of pastry flour. form with floured hands into small balls, placing in the center of each a tiny piece of preserved ginger, or candied ginger. place in a greased baking-pan far enough apart not to touch when baked. bake in a quick oven. cinnamon crisps beat one-third cup of butter and two-thirds cup of sugar until light and creamy, then add one teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, one and one-half cups of flour and one teaspoonful of baking-powder together. mix to a dough with one-third cup of milk, using only enough to make the dough so that it will roll out easily. roll very thin, and cut into small squares or rounds. bake on greased tins in a moderate oven. chocolate sticks cream together one cupful of sugar, one tablespoonful of butter, the yolk of one egg and one-half cup of milk. melt one and one-half squares of chocolate, add to the mixture, then add one cupful of flour, add one-half cupful more of milk, and one-fourth cupful of flour into which has been sifted one teaspoonful baking-powder and one-fourth teaspoonful of soda. bake in a sheet that will be about three-fourths of an inch thick when baked. cut into strips about one inch wide and three or four inches long. when cool dip into pink fondant, then into melted chocolate. decorate the top of each strip with a half of a pecan or hickory-nut meat. orange cakes cream together one-half cupful of butter, one cup of sugar, add the yolks of five eggs beaten thick, one-half cupful of milk, one and three-fourths cupfuls of flour sifted with two level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. add one teaspoonful of orange extract. roll out and cut in star or other fancy shape. cover with yellow orange flavored fondant, and sprinkle over the top with candied orange peel cut into bits. cocoanut drops sift together one and one-half cupfuls of flour and a rounding teaspoonful of baking-powder. beat up one egg until light, then beat into it one-half cupful of sugar, add a half cupful of grated cocoanut and a teaspoonful of grated lemon rind, then alternately the flour and half a cupful of rich cream. drop in little pats on greased pans which have been dusted with flour. have the cakes far enough apart so that the batter will not run together. sprinkle a little grated cocoanut over the top of each cake and bake in a moderate oven. almond cakes mix together one-fourth cupful of butter and a cupful of sugar to a cream, add the beaten yolks of four eggs, one-fourth cupful of cream and two cupfuls of flour in which has been placed one teaspoonful of baking-powder. roll out on a well-floured board about one-fourth of an inch thick, cover with powdered sugar and cut into diamonds. spread with maple fondant, and sprinkle the cakes thickly with blanched and chopped almonds. peanut wafers beat together one-half cupful of nice white lard mixed with butter (half and half of each) and one cupful of sugar, add one cupful of ground peanuts, and one and one-half cupfuls of flour mixed together with one teaspoonful of baking-powder, and one-third teaspoonful of salt. add one-half cupful of milk or water, or just enough to make a dough that will roll thinly. it is best to mix the flour and milk in alternately. cut into small rounds and place a half peanut meat on top of each cake. german wafers warm one-third cupful of butter, and stir in five eggs, one at a time. mix in one quart of sifted flour, and one teaspoonful each of vanilla and banana extract. spread over a buttered dripping pan and bake in a hot oven until a delicate brown. cut into squares, pick with a fork and dip into powdered sugar. japanese wafers beat up the whites of two eggs until stiff, then add two tablespoonfuls of rice flour and two tablespoonfuls of sugar. work in one tablespoonful of softened butter. pour into a pan lined with paraffine or oiled paper, making it as thin as possible. bake in a moderate oven and roll around a round stick, after cutting them in four inch squares. english wafers stir together one cupful of butter with one-half cupful of sugar, add four eggs, the whites and yolks beaten separately, one-half cupful of currants, and one-fourth teaspoonful of cinnamon. add two tablespoonfuls of strong rose water and three-fourths cup of flour, roll very thin and bake on buttered tins for about five minutes or until a delicate brown; cut into small squares, and dust with powdered sugar. delicious tea cookies cream together one-half cupful of butter and one cupful of sugar, add four eggs, one cupful of chopped nut meats, one cupful of chopped raisins, a teaspoonful of soda stirred in one cupful of good new orleans molasses, and one-half teaspoonful each of cinnamon and allspice. add enough flour to make a dough that will roll out thin. mix all the ingredients well together. bake in a hot oven and ice or not as liked. raisin cookies cream together one cupful of butter and one cupful of sugar, add two eggs well beaten; then add one teaspoonful of soda and two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar dissolved in a little lukewarm water. now stir in three cupfuls of flour, one cupful of chopped raisins, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, and one-fourth teaspoonful of nutmeg. drop the batter in spoonfuls on a well-buttered pan, being careful to leave room for the cakes to spread. bake in a moderate oven until a nice brown color. love diamonds cream together one cupful of sugar and one-fourth cupful of butter, then add one-half cupful of sweet milk. sift with one cupful of flour one teaspoonful of baking-powder and add half of it. stir in two whites of eggs beaten stiff, and then the remainder of the flour and a teaspoonful of vanilla. pour into a square pan and bake. when cool cut into diamonds. mix into a cupful of melted chocolate fondant a half cupful of cocoanut, and spread the diamonds with this, or spread with a pink fondant flavored with rose, and sprinkled over with grated cocoanut. marmalade diamonds cream together one-half cupful of butter and one cupful of granulated sugar; then add the beaten yolks of three eggs, one-half cupful of sweet milk; then work in two cupfuls of flour into which has been sifted two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, add the stiffly beaten whites of three eggs and one teaspoonful of lemon extract. pour into square pan and bake. when cool cut into diamonds. on half of the cakes spread lemon, orange or any good marmalade, and place the other halves on these in sandwich fashion. cover with yellow fondant flavored with lemon or orange. lemon cakes cream together one cupful of butter and one cupful of sugar, add two eggs, one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of sweet milk, and the grated rind and juice of one lemon. add enough flour to knead into a stiff dough, roll thin, cut into stars, rounds or squares. bake in a quick oven. ice with lemon flavored fondant or icing. maple nut wafers cream together one cupful of maple sugar and one-half cupful of butter, add two eggs, the whites and yolks beaten separately. sift and add two thirds cupful of flour and one-half cupful of chopped nut meats. sift in the flour one teaspoonful of baking-powder. the batter should be of the right consistency to spread thinly over a buttered pan; if too stiff add a little milk. sprinkle over the top with coarse chopped nuts. bake rather slowly and cut into squares before removing from the oven. vanilla wafers cream together one-third cupful of butter and one cupful of sugar, add one egg, and one-fourth cup of sweet milk. sift together one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of baking-powder, with two and one-fourth cupfuls of flour. beat up, add a tablespoonful of vanilla. pour into pan, spreading thinly over it. bake in a moderate oven. chocolate diamonds cream together one-half cupful of butter and one cupful of sugar. sift into three cupfuls of pastry flour two tablespoonfuls of baking-powder, then add alternately with one cupful of sweet milk, and two eggs. flavor with one teaspoonful of vanilla. bake in square layer cake tins, and when cold cut into diamonds. on the half of these cakes spread a chocolate paste made as follows: beat some fresh butter with a wooden spoon until it is soft and creamy. add by degrees sufficient milk chocolate, which has been reduced to a very fine powder, to make the butter quite brown. flavor with vanilla. place the unspread cakes on top of the spread ones in sandwich fashion, and ice with chocolate fondant, or else use white fondant and sprinkle thickly with chopped almonds. coriander cakes cream together one cupful of sugar and four eggs until thick and white, then add one and a half cupfuls of flour into which has been sifted one teaspoonful of baking-powder; then add two tablespoonfuls of coriander seed and one teaspoonful of lemon extract. this should be a rather thick sponge. drop by spoonfuls on buttered pans or greased paper. bake in a hot oven to a golden brown. peach blossom cakes cream together one cupful of sugar and one-half cupful of butter, then add one-half cupful of sweet milk. sift into one cupful and a half of flour two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder and stir in half of this, then add the stiffly beaten whites of three eggs and then the remainder of the flour and one-half teaspoonful of corn-starch. pour into two square pans and bake in a rather quick oven. when cool cut in small squares and ice with pink fondant flavored with peach or rose extract or ice with white fondant and sprinkle with pink pulverized sugar. wild rose cakes cream together one-half cupful of butter and one cupful of sugar, then add one-half cupful of sweet milk. sift with one teaspoonful of baking-powder into one cupful of flour, add part of the flour, then the stiffly beaten whites of three eggs, then add the remainder of the flour and a teaspoonful of rose or strawberry extract. beat up thoroughly and bake in sheets in two square pans. cut into squares when cool and ice with white fondant, and then with a pastry tube and pink fondant place a wild rose in the center of each cake. put a little yellow or chocolate fondant in the center of each rose. cream nut puffs take one-half cupful of butter, one and one-half cupfuls of flour, eight eggs and two cupfuls of hot water. melt the butter in the water, set over the fire and bring to a gentle boil. then put in the flour and boil until it leaves the sides of the saucepan, never ceasing to stir. one minute is enough. turn into a bowl to cool. beat the eggs in one at a time, beating one minute after each egg is put in, and then when all are in beat for two or three minutes. set on ice for an hour, then drop in spoonfuls on buttered paper, being careful to get them far enough apart so that they will not touch each other. bake for about fifteen minutes in a quick oven or until a nice brown. when cool make a slit in the side of each and fill with a cream nut filling made as follows: place in a double boiler one cupful of milk, stir into this a tablespoonful of corn-starch dissolved in a little milk, and gradually one egg beaten light and one-half cupful of sugar. stir until thick and smooth, then stir in one-half cupful of finely chopped hickory or pecan nut meats. flavor with a teaspoonful of vanilla. when cold fill into the slits in the cakes. these are delicious. spice fingers beat five eggs and two cupfuls of light brown sugar until light, then stir in one teaspoonful of cinnamon and one-half teaspoonful each of cloves, allspice and nutmeg, also one-fourth cupful of almonds pounded into a paste and two ounces of citron cut fine; then add one-half cupful of molasses, and lastly the flour into which three level teaspoonfuls of baking-powder have been sifted. use enough flour to make it stiff enough to roll thin. cut into long strips about the length of a finger, and about an inch wide. bake on greased pan in a moderate oven. when cool dip into chocolate fondant or any colored fondant. they are good dipped into maple fondant. caraway cookies cream together one cupful of sugar, one-half cupful of butter till light, then add one-fourth cup of water, and two eggs well beaten. sift with three cupfuls of flour two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, and add gradually, and then stir in a tablespoonful of caraway seeds. mix the ingredients well together, roll thin and cut out in fancy shapes or in rounds. bake in the oven until a delicate brown. daisy cakes cream together one-fourth cup of butter and two-thirds cupful of sugar, add one egg, one-half cupful of cold water or sweet milk, and the grated rind of one orange. sift a teaspoonful of baking-powder with one cupful of flour and stir in. beat steadily for five or eight minutes, then turn into small greased gem pans. bake in a moderate oven. turn out of the pans and when cold cover with orange fondant. with halved almonds form a daisy in the center of each cake, using a center of candied orange peel. vanilla sugar cakes cream together one cupful of butter and one cupful of sugar, add two well-beaten eggs, and three teaspoonfuls of vanilla extract. sift with three cupfuls of flour three teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. roll out thin, sprinkle with sugar and press in with the rolling pin. cut into rounds or squares and bake them a delicate brown on greased tins. chocolate ginger drops place in a bowl one cupful of molasses, half a cupful of sour cream, one tablespoonful (level) of ginger, one teaspoonful of cinnamon and mix well together, then stir in one-fourth cupful of melted butter. dissolve a teaspoonful of soda in a little water and add to the other ingredients. add enough sifted flour to make a drop batter. drop from spoon on greased pan, far enough not to touch each other when baked. dip each little drop cake into melted chocolate fondant. the dough should be stiff enough so that the batter will not run over the pan but keep its shape when baked. try a bit of the batter in the oven before putting in the cakes. these cakes should be baked in a quick oven. cocoanut fruit drops cream together one cup of sugar and one-half cup of butter, then add one egg and one cup of milk. mix one cupful of raisins in one-half cupful of flour and add to the other ingredients with one and one-half cupfuls of flour into which has been sifted two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, then add one-half cupful of grated cocoanut and one teaspoonful of vanilla. drop by spoonfuls on greased pans and bake in a moderate oven fifteen minutes. can be iced with white fondant and sprinkled over with grated cocoanut. preserved fruit dainties cream together one-half cupful of butter and one cupful of sugar, then add three well-beaten eggs and one-half cupful of sweet milk. mix smooth and then add gradually one and a half cupfuls of flour into which has been sifted one teaspoonful of baking-powder. the dough should be as soft as it can be handled easily. flour the board well and cut out into rounds or squares, and place preserved fruit over the top. any thick preserved fruit may be used. bake in a quick oven a nice brown. jelly jumbles cream together one-half cupful of butter and one cup of sugar, add one well-beaten egg, then one and one-half cupfuls of flour into which have been sifted one teaspoonful of baking-powder and one-fourth teaspoonful of salt. stir well, then add one-third cup of sweet milk or just enough to form a dough that will roll out. flour the board and roll very thin. cut out with a jumble cutter or a doughnut cutter. spread half of these with some good jelly, and place the unspread cakes on top of these in sandwich fashion. press the edges slightly together and bake on greased pans. chocolate nut wafers cream together one-half cupful of butter with one cupful of sugar, add two well-beaten eggs, and two squares of grated chocolate melted in one-fourth cupful of hot water. sift with two-thirds cup of flour one teaspoonful of baking-powder, and a pinch of soda. pour very thinly over well-greased pans, and sprinkle generously over with chopped nut meats. bake in a moderate oven, and cut into small squares or diamonds. lady fingers beat five eggs up until light, add one-half cupful of powdered sugar and beat up for several minutes; sift in with one cupful of flour one teaspoonful of baking-powder and stir slowly. place the batter in a pastry bag and run it out through the tube on light brown paper (not buttered), making each cake about a finger in length, and about one-fourth inch wide; be careful not to get them too wide. sprinkle with granulated sugar, bake in a quick oven. place the paper on a damp table and let stand a few moments and the cakes can be readily removed. stick the cakes together back to back; this will make them round like fingers. if liked a little jelly may be spread between the cakes before putting them together. fruit puffs take five eggs and beat the whites and yolks separately, stir in gradually one and a half cupfuls of sugar, and one and a half cupfuls of flour into which has been sifted two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. bake in deep gem pans, filling about half full. make a fruit filling as follows: place in a saucepan one-half cupful of finely chopped figs, one-half cupful of dates, one-half cupful of chopped raisins and one-half cupful of water. let simmer slowly for an hour, then add a teaspoonful of vanilla. make slits in the sides of the cakes and fill in with this fruit mixture. cover with icing or chocolate fondant. nut tarts prepare a short pastry crust, adding to the flour one tablespoonful of powdered sugar. roll out very thin. dip fancy cutters in flour and cut the pastry, then pierce the half of the cakes with a small circular cutter. some of the cakes can be made with one hole, some two and some three. place these on greased pans and bake in the oven a pale brown. after removing make a paste with the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped nut meats, two tablespoonfuls of maple sugar, and a little cream if the paste is too thick to spread nicely. spread this on the cakes that have been left whole, and then place the cakes with the holes on top. fill up the depressions or holes with jelly, marmalade or fondant. index almond cakes, 167 almond macaroons, 135 almond nougat, brown, 63 almond toffee, 65 apple sweetmeats, 147 arabian confection, 146 assorted bonbons, 115 barley fudge, 52 bonbon cakes, 153 bonbons, 103 bonbons with cocoanut, 110 brown almond nougat, 63 burnt almond fudge, 46 buttercups, 142 butternut and maple cream, 68 butternut caramels, 58 butter-scotch, 32 butter-scotch, french, 33 cake confectionery, 153 candied cherry foam, 97 candied chestnuts, 69 candied sweet potato balls, 144 candy potatoes, 149 caramels, 45 caraway cookies, 178 carrot caramels, 58 cherokee crisp, 129 cherry and almond confection, 73 cherry foam, 84 cherry foam, candied, 97 cherry macaroons, 138 chestnuts, candied, 69 chocolate almonds, 63 chocolate arabics, 148 chocolate caramels, 53 chocolate chips, 31 chocolate cream caramels, 56 chocolate creams, 103 chocolate creams with fruit centers, 104 chocolate creams with nut centers, 106 chocolate diamonds, 173 chocolate fondant, 25 chocolate fudge, 45 chocolate ginger drops, 179 chocolate macaroons, 136, 139 chocolate nut candy, 68 chocolate nut wafers, 182 chocolate nuts, 158 chocolate pop-corn balls, 124 chocolate taffy, 34 chocolate sticks, 166 cinnamon crisps, 165 cinnamon fudge, 50 cinnamon jibb, 32 cinnamon macaroons, 140 coating chocolate creams, 108 cocoanut bonbons, 110 cocoanut caramels, 53 cocoanut creams, 95 cocoanut drops, 167 cocoanut fruit drops, 180 cocoanut fudge, 49 cocoanut jumbles, 159 cocoanut macaroons, 137 cocoanut marshmallow fudge, 51 cocoanut marshmallow fudge (another variety), 51 cocoanut marshmallows, 141 coffee caramels, 52 coffee fudge, 47 coffee macaroons, 138 coloring, 19 coriander cakes, 174 crack stage, 18 cream candies, 93 cream macaroons, 135 cream nut bars, 67 cream nut puffs, 176 crystallization, 19 crystallized pop-corn, 127 daisy cakes, 178 date brittle, 32 date delight, 87 dates, fruit filling, 82 dipping fondant, 117 divinity fudge, 48 divinity fudge, strawberry, 79 divinity hash, 149 english wafers, 169 fig brittle, 32 fig favorites, 85 fig fudge, 48 flavoring, 19, 20 fondant, 23 fondant, dipping, 117 franconia caramels, 57 french butter-scotch, 33 frosted fruit fudge, 83 fruit bars, 161 fruit bonbons, 113 fruit candies, 77 fruit chocolate balls, 86 fruit fudge, 49 fruit puffs, 183 fruit rocks, 160 fruit roll, 88 fruit, stuffed with nuts, 73 fruit tablets, 38 fudge, pop-corn, 131 fudges, 45 german ginger balls, 165 german wafers, 168 ginger chips, 162 ginger creams, 93 ginger nuts, 164 ginger wafers, 163 glacé nuts, 70 hard ball stage, 18 hard candies, 31 hard crack stage, 18 hickory-nut macaroons, 137 hodge-podge candy, 143 honey peppermint tablets, 37 honeycomb candy, 146 honey creams, 96 horehound candy, 34 how to coat chocolate creams, 108 how to dip with fondant, 117 ice pop-corn balls, 126 ingredients, 16 japanese wafers, 169 jasmine macaroons, 136 jelly cake candy, 88 jelly caramels, 55 jelly jumbles, 181 lady fingers, 182 layer fudges, 50 lemon cakes, 172 lemon creams, 94 lemon stick candy, 35 love diamonds, 171 macaroons, 135 maple and butternut cream, 68 maple creams, 95 maple delight, 99 maple drops, 162 maple foam, 97 maple fondant, 26 maple nut wafers, 172 maple panocha, 33 maple pop-corn bars, 128 maple sugar fudge, 46 maple tablets, 37 maraschino drops, 79 marmalade diamonds, 171 marshmallow cakes, 163 marshmallow fruit fudge, 83 marshmallow fudge, 47 marshmallows, 140 marzipan fruit candies, 81 mexican nut confection, 72 mexican panocha, 66 miscellaneous cakes, 153 miscellaneous sweets, 135 molasses caramels, 57 molasses pop-corn balls, 124 molasses taffy, 35 nut bars, cream, 67 nut bonbons, 68, 112 nut candies, 63 nut chocolate caramels, 54 nut foam chocolates, 98 nut loaf, 72 nut stuffed fruit, 73 nut taffy, 35 nut tarts, 184 orange cakes, 166 orange marshmallows, 141 oriental bonbons, 118, 148 peach blossom cakes, 175 peanut brittle, 65 peanut fudge, 48 peanut jumbles, 159 peanut macaroons, 137 peanut molasses candy, 71 peanut wafers, 168 pear caramels, 81 peppermint creams, 94 peppermint stick candy, 36 persian confection, 144 pineapple fudge, 50 pineapple marshmallows, 85 pistachio macaroons, 139 pop-corn almond nougat, 130 pop-corn bars, 128 pop-corn brittle, 130 pop-corn dainty, 126 pop-corn fudge, 131 pop-corn macaroons, 129 pop-corn sweets, 123 popping corn, 123 potatoes, candied, 149 pralines, 67 preserved fruit dainties, 181 prunes, stuffed, 87 queen macaroons, 136 quince confection, 79 raisin cookies, 170 raisin spirals, 161 raisin stickies, 39 rose nougat, 38 salt water taffy, 40 sea foam candies, 93 snow pop-corn balls, 125 soft ball stage, 17 southern hazelnut toffee, 66 spice fingers, 177 spice nuts, 157 storing pop-corn, 124 strawberry caramels, 55 strawberry divinity fudge, 79 strawberry drops, 36 stuffed prunes, 87 sugar, 16 sultana caramels, 54 surprise dates, 82 sweet potato balls, candied, 144 taffy dreams with nut centers, 40 tea cookies, 170 temperature, 17 tests for temperature, 17 thermometers, 14, 17 turkish confection, 145 turkish delight, 147 tutti-frutti caramels, 57 tutti-frutti cream, 80 utensils, 14 vanilla caramels, 55 vanilla sea foam, 96 vanilla sugar cakes, 179 vanilla taffy, 39 vanilla wafers, 173 walnut bonbons, 71 walnut creams, 95 walnut wafers, 158 watermelon dainty, 86 white nougat, 64 wild rose cakes, 175 popular hand-books [illustration: after-dinner stories--harrison] some books are designed for entertainment, others for information. ¶ this series combines both features. the information is not only complete and reliable, it is compact and readable. in this busy, bustling age it is required that the information which books contain shall be ready to hand and be presented in the clearest and briefest manner possible. ¶ these volumes are replete with valuable information, compact in form and unequalled in point of merit and cheapness. they are the latest as well as the best books on the subjects of which they treat. no one who wishes to have a fund of general information or who has the desire for self-improvement can afford to be without them. ¶ they are 6 x 4½ inches in size, well printed on good paper, handsomely bound in green cloth with a heavy paper wrapper to match. cloth, each 50 cents the penn publishing company 925 filbert st., philadelphia etiquette by agnes h. morton there is no passport to good society like good manners. ¶ even though one possess wealth and intelligence, his success in life may be marred by ignorance of social customs. ¶ a perusal of this book will prevent such blunders. it is a book for everybody, for the social leaders as well as for those less ambitious. ¶ the subject is presented in a bright and interesting manner, and represents the latest vogue. letter writing by agnes h. morton why do most persons dislike to write letters? is it not because they cannot say the right thing in the right place? this admirable book not only shows by numerous examples just what kind of letters to write, but by directions and suggestions enables the reader to become an accomplished original letter writer. ¶ there are forms for all kinds of business and social letters, including invitations, acceptances, letters of sympathy, congratulations, and love letters. quotations by agnes h. morton a clever compilation of pithy quotations, selected from a great variety of sources, and alphabetically arranged according to the sentiment. ¶ in addition to all the popular quotations in current use, it contains many rare bits of prose and verse not generally found in similar collections. ¶ one important feature of the book is found in the characteristic lines from well known authors, in which the familiar sayings are credited to their original sources. epitaphs by frederic w. unger even death has its humorous side. ¶ there are said to be "sermons in stones," but when they are tombstones there is many a smile mixed with the moral. ¶ usually churchyard humor is all the more delightful because it is unconscious, but there are times when it is intentional and none the less amusing. ¶ of epitaphs, old and new, this book contains the best. it is full of quaint bits of obituary fancy, with a touch of the gruesome here and there for a relish. proverbs by john h. bechtel the genius, wit, and spirit of a nation are discovered in its proverbs, and the condensed wisdom of all ages and all nations is embodied in them. ¶ a good proverb that fits the case is often a convincing argument. ¶ this volume contains a representative collection of proverbs, old and new, and the indexes, topical and alphabetical, enable one to find readily just what he requires. things worth knowing by john h. bechtel can you name the coldest place in the united states or tell what year had 445 days? do you know how soon the coal fields of the world are likely to be exhausted, or how the speed of a moving train may be told? what should you do first if you got a cinder in your eye, or your neighbor's baby swallowed a pin? this unique, up-to-date book answers thousands of just such interesting and useful questions. dances of today by albert w. newman a book from which anyone may learn the modern dances without a teacher. ¶ a complete diagram is given for each step, showing exactly where the feet are placed on the floor at each beat in the music. ¶ the many illustrations are also a help. among the dances described are the various tangoes, one steps, bostons and maxixes, hesitation waltzes, grape-vine, turkey-trot, castle walk, lame duck, texas tommy and gaby glide. * * * * * transcriber's notes: repeated chapter headers were removed to avoid some redundancy for the reader. page 5, "panochia" changed to "panocha" (mexican panocha) page 52, word "of" removed from text. original read (half-dozen of marshmallows) this book was produced from images from feeding america: the historic american cookbook project at michigan state university chocolate and cocoa recipes by miss parloa and home made candy recipes by mrs. janet mckenzie hill compliments of walter baker & co., ltd. established dorchester 1780 mass 1909 [illustration: bird's-eye view of walter baker & co.'s mills. dorchester and milton, mass. floor space, 350,000 square feet.] cocoa and chocolate the term "cocoa," a corruption of "cacao," is almost universally used in english-speaking countries to designate the seeds of the small tropical tree known to botanists as theobroma cacao, from which a great variety of preparations under the name of cocoa and chocolate for eating and drinking are made. the name "chocolatl" is nearly the same in most european languages, and is taken from the mexican name of the drink, "chocolate" or "cacahuatl." the spaniards found chocolate in common use among the mexicans at the time of the invasion under cortez in 1519, and it was introduced into spain immediately after. the mexicans not only used chocolate as a staple article of food, but they used the seeds of the cacao tree as a medium of exchange. no better evidence could be offered of the great advance which has been made in recent years in the knowledge of dietetics than the remarkable increase in the consumption of cocoa and chocolate in this country. the amount retained for home consumption in 1860 was only 1,181,054 pounds--about 3-5 of an ounce for each inhabitant. the amount retained for home consumption for the year ending dec. 31, 1908, was 93,956,721 pounds--over 16 ounces for each inhabitant. although there was a marked increase in the consumption of tea and coffee during the same period, the ratio of increase fell far below that of cocoa. it is evident that the coming american is going to be less of a tea and coffee drinker, and more of a cocoa and chocolate drinker. this is the natural result of a better knowledge of the laws of health, and of the food value of a beverage which nourishes the body while it also stimulates the brain. baron von liebig, one of the best-known writers on dietetics, says: "it is a perfect food, as wholesome as delicious, a beneficient restorer of exhausted power; but its quality must be good and it must be carefully prepared. it is highly nourishing and easily digested, and is fitted to repair wasted strength, preserve health, and prolong life. it agrees with dry temperaments and convalescents; with mothers who nurse their children; with those whose occupations oblige them to undergo severe mental strains; with public speakers, and with all those who give to work a portion of the time needed for sleep. it soothes both stomach and brain, and for this reason, as well as for others, it is the best friend of those engaged in literary pursuits." m. brillat-savarin, in his entertaining and valuable work, _physiologie du goût_, says: "chocolate came over the mountains [from spain to france] with anne of austria, daughter of philip iii and queen of louis xiii. the spanish monks also spread the knowledge of it by the presents they made to their brothers in france. it is well known that linnæus called the fruit of the cocoa tree _theobroma_, 'food for the gods.' the cause of this emphatic qualification has been sought, and attributed by some to the fact that he was extravagantly fond of chocolate; by others to his desire to please his confessor; and by others to his gallantry, a queen having first introduced it into france. "the spanish ladies of the new world, it is said, carried their love for chocolate to such a degree that, not content with partaking of it several times a day, they had it sometimes carried after them to church. this favoring of the senses often drew upon them the censures of the bishop; but the reverend father escobar, whose metaphysics were as subtle as his morality was accommodating, declared, formally, that a fast was not broken by chocolate prepared with water; thus wire-drawing, in favor of his penitents, the ancient adage, '_liquidum non frangit jejunium._' "time and experience," he says further, "have shown that chocolate, carefully prepared, is an article of food as wholesome as it is agreeable; that it is nourishing, easy of digestion, and does not possess those qualities injurious to beauty with which coffee has been reproached; that it is excellently adapted to persons who are obliged to a great concentration of intellect; in the toils of the pulpit or the bar, and especially to travellers; that it suits the most feeble stomach; that excellent effects have been produced by it in chronic complaints, and that it is a last resource in affections of the pylorus. "some persons complain of being unable to digest chocolate; others, on the contrary, pretend that it has not sufficient nourishment, and that the effect disappears too soon. it is probable that the former have only themselves to blame, and that the chocolate which they use is of bad quality or badly made; for good and well-made chocolate must suit every stomach which retains the slightest digestive power. "in regard to the others, the remedy is an easy one: they should reinforce their breakfast with a _pâté_, a cutlet, or a kidney, moisten the whole with a good draught of soconusco chocolate, and thank god for a stomach of such superior activity. "this gives me an opportunity to make an observation whose accuracy may be depended upon. "after a good, complete, and copious breakfast, if we take, in addition, a cup of well-made chocolate, digestion will be perfectly accomplished in three hours, and we may dine whenever we like. out of zeal for science, and by dint of eloquence, i have induced many ladies to try this experiment. they all declared, in the beginning, that it would kill them; but they have all thriven on it and have not failed to glorify their teacher. "the people who make constant use of chocolate are the ones who enjoy the most steady health, and are the least subject to a multitude of little ailments which destroy the comfort of life; their plumpness is also more equal. these are two advantages which every one may verify among his own friends, and wherever the practice is in use." in corroboration of m. brillat-savarin's statement as to the value of chocolate as an aid to digestion, we may quote from one of mme. de sévigné's letters to her daughter: "i took chocolate night before last to digest my dinner, in order to have a good supper. i took some yesterday for nourishment, so as to be able to fast until night. what i consider amusing about chocolate is that it acts according to the wishes of the one who takes it." chocolate appears to have been highly valued as a remedial agent by the leading physicians of that day. christoph ludwig hoffman wrote a treatise entitled, "potus chocolate," in which he recommended it in many diseases, and instanced the case of cardinal richelieu, who, he stated, was cured of general atrophy by its use. a french officer who served in the west indies for a period of fifteen years, during the early part of the last century, wrote, as the result of his personal observations, a treatise on "the natural history of chocolate, being a distinct and particular account of the cacao tree, its growth and culture, and the preparation, excellent properties, and medicinal virtues of its fruit," which received the approbation of the regent of the faculty of medicine at paris, and which was translated and published in london, in 1730. after describing the different methods of raising and curing the fruit and preparing it for food (which it is not worth while to reproduce here, as the methods have essentially changed since that time), he goes on to demonstrate, as the result of actual experiment, that chocolate is a substance "very temperate, very nourishing, and of easy digestion; very proper to repair the exhausted spirits and decayed strength; and very suitable to preserve the health and prolong the lives of old men.... "i could produce several instances," he says, "in favor of this excellent nourishment; but i shall content myself with two only, equally certain and decisive, in proof of its goodness. the first is an experiment of chocolate's being taken for the only nourishment--made by a surgeon's wife of martinico. she had lost, by a very deplorable accident, her lower jaw, which reduced her to such a condition that she did not know how to subsist. she was not capable of taking anything solid, and not rich enough to live upon jellies and nourishing broths. in this strait she determined to take three dishes of chocolate, prepared after the manner of the country, one in the morning, one at noon, and one at night. there chocolate is nothing else but cocoa kernels dissolved in hot water, with sugar, and seasoned with a bit of cinnamon. this new way of life succeeded so well that she has lived a long while since, more lively and robust than before this accident. "i had the second relation from a gentleman of martinico, and one of my friends not capable of a falsity. he assured me that in his neighborhood an infant of four months old unfortunately lost his nurse, and its parents not being able to put it to another, resolved, through necessity, to feed it with chocolate. the success was very happy, for the infant came on to a miracle, and was neither less healthy nor less vigorous than those who are brought up by the best nurses. "before chocolate was known in europe, good old wine was called the milk of old men; but this title is now applied with greater reason to chocolate, since its use has become so common that it has been perceived that chocolate is, with respect to them, what milk is to infants. in reality, if one examines the nature of chocolate a little, with respect to the constitution of aged persons, it seems as though the one was made on purpose to remedy the defects of the other, and that it is truly the panacea of old age." the three associated beverages, cocoa, tea, and coffee are known to the french as _aromatic_ drinks. each of these has its characteristic aroma. the fragrance and flavor are so marked that they cannot be imitated by any artificial products, although numerous attempts have been made in regard to all three. hence the detection of adulteration is not a difficult matter. designing persons, aware of the extreme difficulty of imitating these substances, have undertaken to employ lower grades, and, by manipulation, copy, as far as may be, the higher sorts. every one knows how readily tea, and coffee, for that matter, will take up odors and flavors from substances placed near them. this is abundantly exemplified in the country grocery or general store, where the teas and coffees share in the pervasive fragrance of the cheese and kerosene. but perhaps it is not so widely understood that some of these very teas and coffees had been artificially flavored or corrected before they reached their destination in this country. cacao lends itself very readily to such preliminary treatment. in a first-class article, the beans should be of the highest excellence; they should be carefully grown on the plantation and there prepared with great skill, arriving in the factory in good condition. in the factory they should simply receive the mechanical treatment requisite to develop their high and attractive natural flavor and fragrance. they should be most carefully shelled after roasting and finely ground without concealed additions. this is the process in all honest manufactories of the cacao products. now, as a matter of fact, in the preparation of many of the cacao products on the market, a wholly different course has been pursued. beans of poor quality are used, because of their cheapness, and in some instances they are only imperfectly, if at all, shelled before grinding. chemical treatment is relied on to correct in part the odor and taste of such inferior goods, and artificial flavors, other than the time-honored natural vanilla and the like, are added freely. the detection of such imposition is easy enough to the expert, but is difficult to the novice; therefore the public is largely unable to discriminate between the good and the inferior, and it is perforce compelled to depend almost entirely on the character and reputation of the manufacturer. a distinguished london physician, in giving some hints concerning the proper preparation of cocoa, says: "start with a pure cocoa of undoubted quality and excellence of manufacture, and which bears the name of a respectable firm. this point is important, for there are many cocoas on the market which have been doctored by the addition of alkali, starch, malt, kola, hops, etc." baker's breakfast cocoa is absolutely pure, and, being ground to an extraordinary degree of fineness, is highly soluble. the analyst of the massachusetts state board of health states in his recent valuable work on "food inspection and analysis," that the treatment of cocoa with alkali for the purpose of producing a more perfect emulsion is objectionable, even if not considered as a form of adulteration. cocoa thus treated is generally darker in color than the pure article. the legitimate means, he says, for making it as soluble as possible is to pulverize it very fine, so that particles remain in even suspension and form a smooth paste. that is the way the baker cocoa is treated. it has received the grand prize--the highest award ever given in this country, and altogether 52 highest awards in europe and america. choice recipes by miss maria parloa specially prepared for walter baker & co. ltd. plain chocolate for six people, use one quart of milk, two ounces of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate, one tablespoonful of cornstarch, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of hot water. mix the cornstarch with one gill of the milk. put the remainder of the milk on to heat in the double-boiler. when the milk comes to the boiling point, stir in the cornstarch and cook for ten minutes. have the chocolate cut in fine bits, and put it in a small iron or granite-ware pan; add the sugar and water, and place the pan over a hot fire. stir constantly until the mixture is smooth and glossy. add this to the hot milk, and beat the mixture with a whisk until it is frothy. or, the chocolate may be poured back and forth from the boiler to a pitcher, holding high the vessel from which you pour. this will give a thick froth. serve at once. if you prefer not to have the chocolate thick, omit the cornstarch. if condensed milk is used, substitute water for the milk named above and add three tablespoonfuls of condensed milk when the chocolate is added. chocolate, vienna style use four ounces of walter baker & co.'s vanilla chocolate, one quart of milk, three tablespoonfuls of hot water, and one tablespoonful of sugar. cut the chocolate in fine bits. put the milk on the stove in the double-boiler, and when it has been heated to the boiling point, put the chocolate, sugar and water in a small iron or granite-ware pan, and stir over a hot fire until smooth and glossy. stir this mixture into the hot milk, and beat well with a whisk. serve at once, putting a tablespoonful of whipped cream in each cup and then filling up with the chocolate. the plain chocolate may be used instead of the vanilla, but in that case use a teaspoonful of vanilla extract and three generous tablespoonfuls of sugar instead of one. breakfast cocoa walter baker & co.'s breakfast cocoa is powdered so fine that it can be dissolved by pouring boiling water on it. for this reason it is often prepared at the table. a small teaspoonful of the powder is put in the cup with a teaspoonful of sugar; on this is poured two-thirds of a cup of boiling water, and milk or cream is added to suit the individual taste. this is very convenient; but cocoa is not nearly so good when prepared in this manner as when it is boiled. for six cupfuls of cocoa use two tablespoonfuls of the powder, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, half a pint of boiling water, and a pint and a half of milk. put the milk on the stove in the double-boiler. put the cocoa and sugar in a saucepan, and gradually pour the hot water upon them, stirring all the time. place the saucepan on the fire and stir until the contents boil. let this mixture boil for five minutes; then add the boiling milk and serve. a gill of cream is a great addition to this cocoa. scalded milk may be used in place of boiled milk, if preferred. for flavoring, a few grains of salt and half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract may be added. chocolate layer cake beat half a cupful of butter to a cream, and gradually beat into it one cupful of sugar. when this is light, beat in half a cupful of milk, a little at a time, and one teaspoonful of vanilla. beat the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth. mix half a teaspoonful of baking powder with two scant cupfuls of sifted flour. stir the flour and whites of eggs alternately into the mixture. have three deep tin plates well buttered, and spread two-thirds of the batter in two of them. into the remaining batter stir one ounce of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate, melted, and spread this batter in the third plate. bake the cakes in a moderate oven for about twenty minutes. put a layer of white cake on a large plate, and spread with white icing. put the dark cake on this, and also spread with white icing. on this put the third cake. spread with chocolate icing. to make the icing. put into a granite-ware saucepan two gills of sugar and one of water, and boil gently until bubbles begin to come from the bottom--say, about five minutes. take from the fire instantly. do not stir or shake the sugar while it is cooking. pour the hot syrup in a thin stream into the whites of two eggs that have been beaten to a stiff froth, beating the mixture all the time. continue to beat until the icing is thick. flavor with one teaspoonful of vanilla. use two-thirds of this as a white icing, and to the remaining third add one ounce of melted chocolate. to melt the chocolate, shave it fine and put in a cup, which is then to be placed in a pan of boiling water. chocolate cake for two sheets of cake, use three ounces of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate, three eggs, one cupful and three-fourths of sifted pastry flour, one cupful and three-fourths of sugar, half a cupful of butter, half a cupful of milk, half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract, one teaspoonful and a half of baking powder. grate the chocolate. beat the butter to a cream, and gradually beat in the sugar. beat in the milk and vanilla, then the eggs (already well beaten), next the chocolate, and finally the flour, in which the baking powder should be mixed. pour into two well buttered shallow cake pans. bake for twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven. frost or not, as you like. chocolate marble cake put one ounce of walter baker & co.'s chocolate and one tablespoonful of butter in a cup, and set this in a pan of boiling water. beat to a cream half a cupful of butter and one cupful of sugar. gradually beat in half a cupful of milk. now add the whites of six eggs beaten to a stiff froth, one teaspoonful of vanilla, and a cupful and a half of sifted flour, in which is mixed one teaspoonful of baking powder. put about one-third of this mixture into another bowl, and stir the melted butter and chocolate into it. drop the white-and-brown mixture in spoonfuls into a well buttered deep cake pan, and bake in a moderate oven for about forty-five minutes; or, the cake can be baked in a sheet and iced with a chocolate or white icing. chocolate glacé cake beat to a cream a generous half cupful of butter, and gradually beat into this one cupful of sugar. add one ounce of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate, melted; also two unbeaten eggs. beat vigorously for five minutes; then stir in half a cupful of milk, and lastly, one cupful and a half of flour, with which has been mixed one generous teaspoonful of baking powder. flavor with one teaspoonful of vanilla. pour into a buttered, shallow cake pan, and bake for half an hour in a moderate oven. when cool, spread with glacé frosting. glacé frosting. put half a cupful of sugar and three tablespoonfuls of water in a small saucepan. stir over the fire until the sugar is nearly melted. take the spoon from the pan before the sugar really begins to boil, because it would spoil the icing if the syrup were stirred after it begins to boil. after boiling gently for four minutes, add half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract, but do not stir; then set away to cool. when the syrup is about blood warm, beat it with a wooden spoon until thick and white. now put the saucepan in another with boiling water, and stir until the icing is thin enough to pour. spread quickly on the cake. chocolate glacé after making a glacé frosting, dissolve one ounce of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate in a cup, and put it with the frosting, adding also a tablespoonful of boiling water. chocolate biscuit cover three large baking pans with paper that has been well oiled with washed butter. over these dredge powdered sugar. melt in a cup one ounce of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate. separate the whites and yolks of four eggs. add to the yolks a generous half cupful of powdered sugar, and beat until light and firm. add the melted chocolate, and beat a few minutes longer. beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff, dry froth. measure out three-fourths of a cupful of sifted flour, and stir it and the whites into the yolks. the whites and flour must be cut in as lightly as possible, and with very little stirring. drop the mixture in teaspoonfuls on the buttered paper. sprinkle powdered sugar over the cakes, and bake in a slow oven for about fourteen or fifteen minutes. the mixture can be shaped like lady fingers, if preferred. chocolate wafers grate four ounces of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate, and mix with it two tablespoonfuls of flour and one-fourth of a teaspoonful each of cinnamon, cloves and baking powder. separate six eggs. add one cupful of powdered sugar to the yolks, and beat until very light; then add the grated yellow rind and the juice of half a lemon, and beat five minutes longer. now add the dry mixture, and with a spoon lightly cut in the whites, which are first to be beaten to a stiff froth. pour the mixture into buttered shallow pans, having it about half an inch thick. bake in a moderate oven for half an hour. when the cake is cool, spread a thin layer of currant jelly over one sheet, and place the other sheet on this. ice with vanilla icing; and when this hardens, cut in squares. it is particularly nice to serve with ice-cream. cinderella cakes use two eggs, one cupful of sugar, one cupful and a quarter of flour, one gill of cold water, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, one teaspoonful of baking powder, one ounce of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate, half a tumbler of any kind of jelly, and chocolate icing the same as for éclairs. separate the eggs, and beat the yolks and sugar together until light. beat the whites until light, and then beat them with yolks and sugar and grated chocolate. next beat in the lemon juice and water, and finally the flour, in which the baking powder should be mixed. beat for three minutes, and then pour the batter into two pans, and bake in a moderate oven for about eighteen minutes. when done, spread one sheet of cake with the jelly, and press the other sheet over it; and when cold, cut into little squares and triangular pieces. stick a wooden toothpick into each of these pieces and dip each one into the hot icing, afterwards removing the toothpick, of course. chocolate éclairs into a granite-ware saucepan put half a pint of milk, two well-rounded tablespoonfuls of butter, and one tablespoonful of sugar, and place on the stove. when this boils up, add half a pint of sifted flour, and cook for two minutes, beating well with a wooden spoon. it will be smooth and velvety at the end of that time. set away to cool; and when cool, beat in four eggs, one at a time. beat vigorously for about fifteen minutes. try a small bit of the paste in the oven; and if it rises in the form of a hollow ball, the paste is beaten enough; whereas, if it does not, beat a little longer. have tin sheets or shallow pans slightly buttered. have ready, also, a tapering tin tube, with the smaller opening about three-quarters of an inch in diameter. place this in the small end of a conical cotton pastry bag. put the mixture in the bag, and press out on buttered pans, having each éclair nearly three inches long. there should be eighteen, and they must be at least two inches apart, as they swell in cooking. bake in a moderately hot oven for about twenty-five minutes. take from the oven, and while they are still warm coat them with chocolate. when cold, cut open on the side, and fill with either of the following described preparations:-filling no. 1.--mix in a bowl half a pint of rich cream, one teaspoonful of vanilla, and four tablespoonfuls of sugar. place the bowl in a pan of ice-water, and beat the cream until light and firm, using either an egg-beater or a whisk. filling no. 2.--put half a pint of milk into a double-boiler, and place on the fire. beat together until very light one level tablespoonful of flour, half a cupful of sugar, and one egg. when the milk boils, stir in this mixture. add one-eighth of a teaspoonful of salt, and cook for fifteen minutes, stirring often. when cold, flavor with one teaspoonful of vanilla. icing for éclairs.--put in a small granite-ware pan half a pint of sugar and five tablespoonfuls of cold water. stir until the sugar is partially melted, and then place on the stove, stirring for half a minute. take out the spoon, and watch the sugar closely. as soon as it boils, take instantly from the fire and pour upon a meat-platter. let this stand for eight minutes. meantime, shave into a cup one ounce of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate, and put it on the fire in a pan of boiling water. at the end of eight minutes stir the sugar with a wooden spoon until it begins to grow white and to thicken. add the melted chocolate quickly, and continue stirring until the mixture is thick. put it in a small saucepan, and place on the fire in another pan of hot water. stir until so soft that it will pour freely. stick a skewer into the side of an éclair, and dip the top in the hot chocolate. place on a plate, and continue until all the éclairs are "glacéd." they will dry quickly. do not stir the sugar after the first half minute, and do not scrape the sugar from the saucepan into the platter. all the directions must be strictly followed. chocolate cookies beat to a cream half a cupful of butter and one tablespoonful of lard. gradually beat into this one cupful of sugar; then add one-fourth of a teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, and two ounces of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate, melted. now add one well-beaten egg, and half a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of milk. stir in about two cupfuls and a half of flour. roll thin, and, cutting in round cakes, bake in a rather quick oven. the secret of making good cookies is the use of as little flour as will suffice. chocolate gingerbread mix in a large bowl one cupful of molasses, half a cupful of sour milk or cream, one teaspoonful of ginger, one of cinnamon, half a teaspoonful of salt. dissolve one teaspoonful of soda in a teaspoonful of cold water; add this and two tablespoonfuls of melted butter to the mixture. now stir in two cupfuls of sifted flour, and finally add two ounces of walter baker & co.'s chocolate and one tablespoonful of butter, melted together. pour the mixture into three well-buttered, deep tin plates, and bake in a moderately hot oven for about twenty minutes. vanilla icing break the white of one large egg into a bowl, and gradually beat into it one cupful of confectioners' sugar. beat for three minutes, add half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract, and spread thinly on the cakes. chocolate icing make a vanilla icing, and add one tablespoonful of cold water to it. scrape fine one ounce of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate, and put it in a small iron or granite-ware saucepan, with two tablespoonfuls of confectioners' sugar and one tablespoonful of hot water. stir over a hot fire until smooth and glossy, then add another tablespoonful of hot water. stir the dissolved chocolate into the vanilla icing. chocolate profiteroles shave into a cup one ounce of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate, and put the cup into a pan of boiling water. make a paste the same as for éclairs, save that instead of one tablespoonful of sugar three must be used. as soon as the paste is cooked, beat in the melted chocolate. when cold, add the eggs, and beat until light. drop this batter on lightly buttered pans in round cakes, having about a dessertspoonful in each cake. bake for about twenty minutes in a moderately hot oven. serve either hot or cold, with whipped cream prepared the same as for filling no. 1 for éclairs. heap the cream in the center of a flat dish, and arrange the profiteroles around it. chocolate ice-cream for about two quarts and a half of cream use a pint and a half of milk, a quart of thin cream, two cupfuls of sugar, two ounces of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate, two eggs, and two heaping tablespoonfuls of flour. put the milk on to boil in a double-boiler. put the flour and one cupful of the sugar in a bowl; add the eggs, and beat the mixture until light. stir this into the boiling milk, and cook for twenty minutes, stirring often. scrape the chocolate, and put it in a small saucepan. add four tablespoonfuls of sugar (which should be taken from the second cupful) and two tablespoonfuls of hot water. stir over a hot fire until smooth and glossy. add this to the cooking mixture. when the preparation has cooked for twenty minutes, take it from the fire and add the remainder of the sugar and the cream, which should be gradually beaten into the hot mixture. set away to cool, and when cold, freeze. chocolate cream pies beat to a cream half a cupful of butter and a cupful and a quarter of powdered sugar. add two well-beaten eggs, two tablespoonfuls of wine, half a cupful of milk, and a cupful and a half of sifted flour, with which has been mixed a teaspoonful and a half of baking powder. bake this in four well-buttered, deep, tin plates for about fifteen minutes in a moderate oven. put half a pint of milk in the double-boiler, and on the fire. beat together the yolks of two eggs, three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and a level tablespoonful of flour. stir this mixture into the boiling milk, beating well. add one-sixth of a teaspoonful of salt, and cook for fifteen minutes, stirring often. when cooked, flavor with half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. put two of the cakes on two large plates, spread the cream over them, and lay the other two cakes on top. beat the whites of the two eggs to a stiff froth, and then beat into them one cupful of powdered sugar and one teaspoonful of vanilla. shave one ounce of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate, and put it in a small pan with two tablespoonfuls of sugar and one tablespoonful of boiling water. stir over a hot fire until smooth and glossy. now add three tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, and stir into the beaten egg and sugar. spread on the pies and set away for a few hours. chocolate mousse put a three-quart mould in a wooden pail, first lining the bottom with fine ice and a thin layer of coarse salt. pack the space between the mould and the pail solidly with fine ice and coarse salt, using two quarts of salt and ice enough to fill the space. whip one quart of cream, and drain it in a sieve. whip again all the cream that drains through. put in a small pan one ounce of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate, three tablespoonfuls of sugar and one of boiling water, and stir over a hot fire until smooth and glossy. add three tablespoonfuls of cream. sprinkle a cupful of powdered sugar over the whipped cream. pour the chocolate in a thin stream into the cream, and stir gently until well mixed. wipe out the chilled mould, and turn the cream into it. cover, and then place a little ice lightly on top. wet a piece of carpet in water, and cover the top of the pail. set away for three or four hours; then take the mould from the ice, dip it in cold water, wipe, and then turn the mousse out on a flat dish. chocolate charlotte soak a quarter of a package of gelatine in one-third of a cupful of cold water for two hours. whip one pint of cream to a froth, and put it in a bowl, which should be placed in a pan of ice-water. put half an ounce of shaved chocolate in a small pan with two tablespoonfuls of sugar and one of boiling water, and stir over the hot fire until smooth and glossy. add to this a gill of hot milk and the soaked gelatine, and stir until the gelatine is dissolved. sprinkle a generous half cupful of powdered sugar over the cream. now add the chocolate and gelatine mixture, and stir gently until it begins to thicken. line a quart charlotte-mould with lady fingers, and when the cream is so thick that it will just pour, turn it gently into the mould. place the charlotte in a cold place for an hour or more, and, at serving time, turn out on a flat dish. chocolate bavarian cream for one large mould of cream, use half a package of gelatine, one gill of milk, two quarts of whipped cream, one gill of sugar, and two and a half ounces of walter baker & co.'s chocolate. soak the gelatine in cold water for two hours. whip and drain the cream, scrape the chocolate, and put the milk on to boil. put the chocolate, two tablespoonfuls of sugar and one of hot water in a small saucepan, and stir on a hot fire until smooth and glossy. stir this into the hot milk. now add the soaked gelatine and the remainder of the sugar. strain this mixture into a basin that will hold two quarts or more. place the basin in a pan of ice-water, and stir until cold, when it will begin to thicken. instantly begin to stir in the whipped cream, adding half the amount at first. when all the cream has been added, dip the mould in cold water and turn the cream into it. place in the ice-chest for an hour or more. at serving-time dip the mould in tepid water. see that the cream will come from the sides of the mould, and turn out on a flat dish. serve with whipped cream. chocolate cream soak a box of gelatine in half a pint of cold water for two hours. put one quart of milk in the double-boiler, and place on the fire. shave two ounces of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate, and put it in a small pan with four tablespoonfuls of sugar and two of boiling water. stir over a hot fire until smooth and glossy, and then stir into the hot milk. beat the yolks of five eggs with half a cupful of sugar. add to the gelatine, and stir the mixture into the hot milk. cook three minutes longer, stirring all the while. on taking from the fire, add two teaspoonfuls of vanilla and half a saltspoonful of salt. strain, and pour into moulds that have been rinsed in cold water. set away to harden, and serve with sugar and cream. chocolate blanc-mange put one quart of milk in the double-boiler, and place on the fire. sprinkle into it one level tablespoonful of sea-moss farina. cover, and cook until the mixture looks white, stirring frequently. it will take about twenty minutes. while the milk and farina are cooking, shave two ounces of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate, and put it into a small pan with four tablespoonfuls of sugar and two of boiling water. stir over a hot fire until smooth and glossy, then stir into the cooked mixture. add a saltspoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of vanilla. strain, and turn into a mould that has been rinsed in cold water. set the mould in a cold place, and do not disturb it until the blanc-mange is cold and firm. serve with sugar and cream. chocolate cream renversee use one quart of milk, seven eggs, half a pint of sugar, one ounce of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate, half a teaspoonful of salt. put the milk on the fire in the double-boiler. shave the chocolate, and put it in a small pan with three tablespoonfuls of the sugar and one of boiling water. stir over a hot fire until smooth and glossy; then stir into the hot milk, and take the milk from the fire to cool. put three tablespoonfuls of sugar into a charlotte-mould that will hold a little more than a quart, and place on the stove. when the sugar melts and begins to smoke, move the mould round and round, to coat it with the burnt sugar, then place on the table. beat together the remainder of the sugar, the eggs, and the salt. add the cold milk and chocolate to the mixture, and after straining into the charlotte-mould, place in a deep pan, with enough tepid water to come nearly to the top of the mould. bake in a moderate oven until firm in the center. test the cream by running a knife through the center. if firm and smooth, it is done. it will take forty or forty-five minutes to cook. when icy-cold, turn on a flat dish. serve with whipped cream that has been flavored with sugar and vanilla. baked chocolate custard for five small custards use one pint of milk, two eggs, one ounce of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of salt, and a piece of stick cinnamon about an inch long. put the cinnamon and milk in the double-boiler, place on the fire and cook for ten minutes. shave the chocolate, and put it in a small pan with three tablespoonfuls of sugar and one of boiling water. stir this over a hot fire until smooth and glossy, and then stir it into the hot milk, after which take the liquid mixture from the fire and cool. beat together with a spoon the eggs, salt and two tablespoonfuls of the sugar. add the cooled milk and strain. pour the mixture into the cups, which place in a deep pan. pour into the pan enough tepid water to come nearly to the top of the cups. bake in a moderate oven until firm in the center. it will take about half an hour. test by running a knife through the center. if the custard is milky, it is not done. serve very cold. chocolate soufflé half a pint of milk, two ounces of walter baker & co.'s chocolate, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, one rounding tablespoonful of butter, two tablespoonfuls of flour, four eggs. put the milk in the double-boiler, and place on the fire. beat the butter to a soft cream, and beat the flour into it. gradually pour the hot milk on this, stirring all the time. return to the fire and cook for six minutes. put the shaved chocolate, sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of water in a small pan over a hot fire, and stir until smooth and glossy. stir this into the mixture in the double-boiler. take from the fire and add the yolks of the eggs, well beaten; then set away to cool. when cool add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. pour the batter into a well-buttered earthen dish that will hold about a quart, and cook in a moderate oven for twenty-two minutes. serve immediately with vanilla cream sauce. chocolate pudding reserve one gill of milk from a quart, and put the remainder on the fire in a double-boiler. mix three tablespoonfuls of cornstarch with the cold milk. beat two eggs with half a cupful of powdered sugar and half a teaspoonful of salt. add this to the cornstarch and milk, and stir into the boiling milk, beating well for a minute. shave fine two ounces of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate, and put it into a small pan with four tablespoonfuls of sugar and two of boiling water. stir over a hot fire until smooth and glossy; then beat into the hot pudding. cook the pudding in all ten minutes, counting from the time the eggs and cornstarch are added. serve cold with powdered sugar and cream. this pudding can be poured while hot into little cups which have been rinsed in cold water. at serving time turn out on a flat dish, making a circle, and fill the center of the dish with whipped cream flavored with sugar and vanilla. the eggs may be omitted, in which case use one more tablespoonful of cornstarch. chocolate meringue pudding for a small pudding use one pint of milk, two tablespoonfuls and a half of cornstarch, one ounce of walter baker & co.'s chocolate, two eggs, five tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. mix the cornstarch with one gill of the milk. put the remainder of the milk on to boil in the double-boiler. scrape the chocolate. when the milk boils, add the cornstarch, salt, and chocolate, and cook for ten minutes. beat the yolks of the eggs with three tablespoonfuls of sugar. pour the hot mixture on this, and beat well. turn into a pudding-dish that will hold about a quart, and bake for twenty minutes in a moderate oven. beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff, dry froth, and gradually beat in the remaining two tablespoonfuls of sugar and the vanilla. spread this on the pudding, and return to the oven. cook for fifteen minutes longer, but with the oven-door open. serve either cold or hot. milton pudding use one pint of stale bread broken in crumbs, one quart of milk, two eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, three tablespoonfuls of sugar and two ounces of walter baker & co.'s chocolate, grated. put the bread, milk, cinnamon, and chocolate in a bowl, and soak for two or three hours. beat together the eggs, sugar, and salt. mash the soaked bread with a spoon, and add the egg mixture to the bread and milk. pour into a pudding-dish, and bake in a slow oven for about forty minutes. serve with an egg sauce or a vanilla cream sauce. egg sauce.--beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff, dry froth; and beat into this, a little at a time, one cupful of powdered sugar. when smooth and light, add one teaspoonful of vanilla and the yolks of two eggs. beat the mixture a little longer; then stir in one cupful of whipped cream or three tablespoonfuls of milk. serve at once. vanilla cream sauce.--beat to a cream three tablespoonfuls of butter, and gradually beat into this two-thirds of a cupful of powdered sugar. when this is light and creamy, add a teaspoonful of vanilla; then gradually beat in two cupfuls of whipped cream. place the bowl in a pan of boiling water, and stir constantly for three minutes. pour the sauce into a warm bowl, and serve. snow pudding put a pint of milk in the double-boiler and on the fire. mix three tablespoonfuls of cornstarch with a gill of milk and one-third of a teaspoonful of salt. stir this into the milk when it boils. beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, and then gradually beat into them half a cupful of powdered sugar and one teaspoonful of vanilla. add this to the cooking mixture, and beat vigorously for one minute. rinse a mould in cold water, and pouring the pudding into it, set away to cool. at serving-time turn out on a flat dish, and serve with chocolate sauce. chocolate sauce put one pint of milk in the double-boiler, and on the fire. shave two ounces of walter baker and co.'s chocolate, and put it in a small pan with four tablespoonfuls of sugar and two of boiling water. stir over the fire until smooth and glossy, and add to the hot milk. beat together for eight minutes the yolks of four eggs, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and a saltspoonful of salt, and then add one gill of cold milk. pour the boiling milk on this, stirring well. return to the double-boiler, and cook for five minutes, stirring all the time. pour into a cold bowl and set the bowl in cold water. stir for a few minutes, and then occasionally until the sauce is cold. this sauce is nice for cold or hot cornstarch pudding, bread pudding, cold cabinet pudding, snow pudding, etc. it will also answer for a dessert. fill custard glasses with it, and serve the same as soft custard; or have the glasses two-thirds full, and heap up with whipped cream. chocolate candy one cupful of molasses, two cupfuls of sugar, one cupful of milk, one-half pound of chocolate, a piece of butter half the size of an egg. boil the milk and molasses together, scrape the chocolate fine, and mix with just enough of the boiling milk and molasses to moisten; rub it perfectly smooth, then, with the sugar, stir into the boiling liquid; add the butter, and boil twenty minutes. try as molasses candy, and if it hardens, pour into a buttered dish. cut the same as nut candy. cream chocolate caramels mix together in a granite-ware saucepan half a pint of sugar, half a pint of molasses, half a pint of thick cream, one generous tablespoonful of butter, and four ounces of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate. place on the fire and stir until the mixture boils. cook until a few drops of it will harden if dropped into ice-water; then pour into well-buttered pans, having the mixture about three-fourths of an inch deep. when nearly cold, mark into squares. it will take almost an hour to boil this in a granite-ware pan, but not half so long if cooked in an iron frying-pan. stir frequently while boiling. the caramels must be put in a very cold place to harden. sugar chocolate caramels mix two cupfuls of sugar, three-fourths of a cupful of milk or cream, one generous tablespoonful of butter, and three ounces of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate. place on the fire and cook, stirring often, until a little of the mixture, when dropped in ice-water, will harden; then stir in one-fourth of a cupful of sugar and one tablespoonful of vanilla, and pour into a well-buttered pan, having the mixture about three-fourths of an inch deep. when nearly cold, mark it off in squares, and put in a cold place to harden. these caramels are sugary and brittle, and can be made in the hottest weather without trouble. if a deep granite-ware saucepan be used for the boiling, it will take nearly an hour to cook the mixture; but if with an iron frying-pan, twenty or thirty minutes will suffice. chocolate creams, no. 1 beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth. gradually beat into this two cupfuls of confectioners' sugar. if the eggs be large, it may take a little more sugar. flavor with half a teaspoonful of vanilla, and work well. now roll into little balls, and drop on a slightly buttered platter. let the balls stand for an hour or more. shave five ounces of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate and put into a small bowl, which place on the fire in a saucepan containing boiling water. when the chocolate is melted, take the saucepan to the table, and drop the creams into the chocolate one at a time, taking them out with a fork and dropping them gently on the buttered dish. it will take half an hour or more to harden the chocolate. chocolate creams, no. 2 for these creams you should make a fondant in this way: put into a granite-ware saucepan one cupful of water and two of granulated sugar--or a pound of loaf sugar. stir until the sugar is nearly melted, then place on the fire and heat slowly, but do not stir the mixture. watch carefully and note when it begins to boil. when the sugar has been boiling for ten minutes, take up a little of it and drop in ice-water. if it hardens enough to form a soft ball when rolled between the thumb and finger, it is cooked enough. take the saucepan from the fire instantly, and set in a cool, dry place. when the syrup is so cool that the finger can be held in it comfortably, pour it into a bowl, and stir with a wooden spoon until it becomes thick and white. when it begins to look dry, and a little hard, take out the spoon, and work with the hand until the cream is soft and smooth. flavor with a few drops of vanilla, and, after shaping, cover with chocolate, as directed in the preceding recipe. _caution._--do not stir the syrup while it is cooking, and be careful not to jar or shake the saucepan. chocolate cones boil the sugar as directed for fondant in the recipe for chocolate creams, no. 2, but not quite so long--say about eleven minutes. the syrup, when tested, should be too soft to ball. when cold, pour into a bowl, and beat until thick and creamy. if properly boiled, it will not become thick enough to work with the hands. have six ounces of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate melted in a bowl. pour half of the creamed sugar into another bowl, and, after flavoring with a few drops of vanilla, add to it about one-third of the dissolved chocolate. stir until thick and rather dry; then make into small cones, and drop on a slightly buttered platter. put half of the remaining creamed sugar in a cup, and set in a saucepan containing boiling water. flavor with vanilla, and stir over the fire until melted so much that it will pour from the spoon. take the saucepan to the table and dip one-half the cones in, one at a time, just as the chocolate creams, no. 1, were dipped in the melted chocolate. if liked, a second coating may be given the cones. now put the remainder of the creamed sugar on to melt, and add two tablespoonfuls of hot water to it. stir the remainder of the melted chocolate into this, and if too thick to dip the candy in, add hot water, a few drops at a time, until the mixture is of the right consistency; then dip the rest of the cones in this. genesee bon-bons make the cream chocolate caramels, and get them quite firm by placing the pan on ice. make the chocolate coating as directed for chocolate cones. dip the caramels in this and put on a buttered dish. chocolate syrup into a granite-ware saucepan put one ounce--three tablespoonfuls--of walter baker & co.'s soluble chocolate, and gradually pour on it half a pint of boiling water, stirring all the time. place on the fire, and stir until all the chocolate is dissolved. now add one pint of granulated sugar, and stir until it begins to boil. cook for three minutes longer, then strain and cool. when cool, add one tablespoonful of vanilla extract. bottle, and keep in a cold place. refreshing drinks for summer put into a tumbler about two tablespoonfuls of broken ice, two tablespoonfuls of chocolate syrup, three tablespoonfuls of whipped cream, one gill of milk, and half a gill of soda-water from a syphon bottle, or apollinaris water. stir well before drinking. a tablespoonful of vanilla ice-cream is a desirable addition. it is a delicious drink, even if the soda or apollinaris water and ice-cream be omitted. a plainer drink is made by combining the syrup, a gill and a half of milk, and the ice, shaking well. a few suggestions in regard to chocolate the best flavor to add to chocolate is vanilla; next to that, cinnamon. beyond these two things one should use great caution, as it is very easy to spoil the fine natural flavor of the bean. chocolate absorbs odors readily; therefore it should be kept in a pure, sweet atmosphere. as about eleven per cent. of the chocolate bean is starch, chocolate and cocoa are of a much finer flavor if boiled for a few minutes. long boiling, however, ruins their flavor and texture. recipes specially prepared _by_ miss elizabeth kevill burr (all measurements should be level.) formula for making three gallons of breakfast cocoa 1/2 a pound of walter baker & co.'s cocoa, 1-1/2 gallons of water, hot, 1-1/2 gallons of milk, hot. this should not be allowed to boil. either make it in a large double-boiler, or a large saucepan or kettle over water. mix the cocoa with enough cold water to make a paste, and be sure it is free from lumps. heat together the milk and water, and pour in the cocoa; then cook at least an hour, stirring occasionally. cracked cocoa to one-third a cup of baker's cracked cocoa (sometimes called "cocoa nibs") use three cups of cold water; cook slowly at least one hour--the longer the better. then strain the liquid and add one cup (or more if desired) of milk, and serve very hot. do not allow the mixture to boil after milk has been added. vanilla chocolate with whipped cream one cake (1/2 a pound) of walter baker & co.'s vanilla sweet chocolate, 4 cups of boiling water, pinch of salt, 4 cups of hot milk. this must be made in a double-boiler. put the chocolate, boiling water and salt in upper part of the double-boiler. stir and beat with a wooden spoon until the chocolate is dissolved and smooth. add the milk and when thoroughly hot, strain, and serve with unsweetened whipped cream. more cooking will improve it. chocolate cream pie line a pie plate with rich pie crust, putting on an extra edge of crust the same as for custard pie. fill with the chocolate filling made after the following recipe. bake in a hot oven until crust is done; remove, and when cool, cover with a meringue and brown very slowly in moderate oven. chocolate filling 1 cup of milk, pinch of salt, 1-1/2 squares of baker's chocolate, 2 level tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 eggs (yolks), 5 tablespoonfuls of sugar (level), 1 teaspoonful of vanilla. put milk, salt and chocolate in upper part of the double-boiler, and when hot and smooth, stir in the flour, which has been mixed with enough cold milk to be thin enough to pour into the hot milk. cook, stirring constantly, until it thickens; then let it cook eight or ten minutes. mix the eggs and sugar together and pour the hot mixture over them, stirring well; put back in double-boiler and cook, stirring constantly one minute. remove, and when cool add one teaspoonful of vanilla. meringue 2 eggs (whites), pinch of salt, 4 level tablespoonfuls of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla. add salt to eggs and beat in a large shallow dish with fork or egg-whip until stiff and flaky and dish can be turned upside down. beat in the sugar slowly, then the vanilla, and beat until the dish can be turned upside down. cocoa sticks 6 tablespoonfuls of butter, 3/4 cup of sugar (scant), 1 egg, 1 tablespoonful of milk, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla or pinch of cinnamon, 5 teaspoonfuls of baker's cocoa, 1/8 teaspoonful of baking powder, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 cups of sifted pastry flour. cream the butter until soft; add the sugar gradually and beat well; add the beaten egg, milk and vanilla; mix thoroughly. sift cocoa, baking powder, and a pinch of salt with about one-half cup of the flour; stir this into the mixture first, then use the remainder of the flour, and more if necessary, to make a firm dough that will not stick to the fingers. set on the ice to harden. sprinkle the board with cocoa and a very little sugar. use small pieces of the dough at a time, toss it over the board to prevent sticking, roll out thin, cut in strips about one-half inch wide and three inches long. place closely in pan and bake in moderately hot oven three or four minutes. great care should be taken in the baking to prevent burning. it is advisable to gather the scraps after each rolling, if soft, and set away to harden, for fear of getting in too much cocoa, thus making them bitter. the colder and harder the dough is, the better it can be handled; therefore it can be made the day before using. cocoa frosting 4 teaspoonfuls of baker's cocoa, 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, 3 tablespoonfuls of hot water, 1/2 a teaspoonful of vanilla, about 1-3/4 cups of confectioners' sugar. put the cocoa in a small saucepan; add the cold water and stir until perfectly smooth; then the hot water, and cook for one or two minutes, add vanilla and a speck of salt, then stir in enough sugar to make it stiff enough to spread nicely. beat until smooth and glossy and free from lumps. if too thick, add a little cold water. if not thick enough, add a little sugar. never make a frosting so stiff that it will have to be made smooth with a wet knife. it is better to let it run to the sides of the cake. for frosting sides of the cake, make a little stiffer. this frosting never cracks as an egg frosting, but is hard enough to cut nicely. cocoa sauce 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, 1 cup of boiling water, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 4 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 4 teaspoonfuls of baker's cocoa, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla. melt the butter in the saucepan; mix the flour and cocoa together and stir into the butter; add gradually the hot water, stirring and beating each time; cook until it thickens. just before serving, add the sugar, vanilla and a pinch of salt, if necessary. use more cocoa if liked stronger. this sauce will be found excellent for cottage puddings, dutch apple cakes, steamed apple puddings, etc. cocoa cake 1/2 a cup of butter, 3/4 a cup of milk, 1 cup of sugar, 6 level tablespoonfuls of baker's cocoa, 3 eggs, 2 level teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla, 1-1/2 or 2 cups of sifted pastry flour. cream the butter, stir in the sugar gradually, add the unbeaten eggs, and beat all together until very creamy. sift together one-half cup of the flour, the cocoa and baking powder; use this flour first, then alternate the milk and remaining flour, using enough to make mixture stiff enough to drop from the spoon; add vanilla and beat until very smooth; then bake in loaf in moderately hot oven thirty-five or forty minutes. tests for baking cake. it is baked enough when: 1. it shrinks from the pan. 2. touching it on the top, springs back. 3. no singing sound. cocoa meringue pudding 1 cup of milk, 2 eggs (yolks), 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, pinch of salt, 4 teaspoonfuls of baker's cocoa, 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 1/2 a teaspoonful of vanilla. put the milk in the upper part of the double-boiler, and heat. mix flour and cocoa together and soften in a little cold milk; mix until free from lumps. when the milk is hot, add the flour, and cook, stirring often, eight or ten minutes. beat yolks of eggs lightly; add sugar and salt, and mix well. when mixture in double-boiler has cooked sufficiently, strain it over the mixture in the bowl. put back in double-boiler and allow it to cook one or two minutes (stirring constantly), just enough to slightly thicken the eggs. remove from the stove, and when cool add vanilla and put in the serving-dish. cover with a meringue. place dish on a board, put in the oven with the door open, and allow it to remain there for ten or fifteen minutes, and when the meringue will not stick to the fingers, close the door and let it brown slightly. this pudding can be eaten warm or cold, but is much better cold. this will serve four persons generously. chocolate almonds blanch the almonds by pouring boiling water on them, and let them stand two or three minutes. roast them in oven. dip them in the following recipe for chocolate coating, and drop on paraffine paper. 1/2 pound cake of walter baker's vanilla sweet chocolate, 2 level tablespoonfuls of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of boiling water. put chocolate in small saucepan over boiling water and when melted stir in butter and water. mix well. if found to be too thick, add more water; if too thin, more chocolate. hot chocolate sauce 1 cup of boiling water, pinch of salt, 1 square of chocolate, 1/2 a cup of sugar. cook all together slowly until it is the consistency of maple syrup, or thicker if desired. just before serving, add one teaspoonful of vanilla. this will keep indefinitely, and can be reheated. cocoa sponge cake 4 eggs, 1/4 a cup of sugar, pinch of salt, 4 tablespoonfuls of baker's cocoa, 1/2 a cup of sifted pastry flour, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla. separate yolks from whites of eggs; beat yolks in a small bowl with the dover egg-beater until very thick; add sugar, salt and vanilla, and beat again until very thick. sift cocoa and the flour together and stir very lightly into the mixture; fold in the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs, and bake in a loaf in a moderate oven until done. do not butter the pan, but when cake is baked, invert the pan; and when cool, remove the cake. chocolate frosting 1 square of baker's chocolate, pinch of salt, 5 tablespoonfuls of boiling water, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla, about three cups of sifted confectioners' sugar. melt chocolate in bowl over tea-kettle, add water, salt and vanilla, and when smooth add the sugar, and heat until very glossy. make the frosting stiff enough to spread without using a wet knife. it will keep indefinitely. chocolate cake, or devil's food 5 level tablespoonfuls of butter, 1-1/4 cups of sugar, 3-1/2 squares of baker's chocolate, (melted), 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla, 3/4 a cup of milk, 3-1/2 level teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 1-1/2 cups of sifted pastry flour. cream the butter, add sugar and chocolate, then the unbeaten eggs and vanilla, and beat together until very smooth. sift the baking powder with one-half a cup of the flour, and use first; then alternate the milk and the remaining flour, and make the mixture stiff enough to drop from the spoon. beat until very smooth and bake in loaf in moderate oven. for tests see cocoa cake recipe on page 25. chocolate ice-cream 1 quart of milk, pinch of salt, 3 squares of baker's chocolate, 3 level tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 can of sweetened condensed milk, 3 eggs, 6 level tablespoonfuls of sugar, 3 teaspoonfuls of vanilla. put milk, salt and chocolate in double-boiler, and when milk is hot and chocolate has melted, stir in the flour, previously mixed in a little cold milk. cook ten minutes, then pour this over the condensed milk, eggs and sugar mixed together; cook again for four minutes, stirring. strain, and when cool add vanilla, and freeze. chocolate whip 1 cup of milk, 1-1/2 squares of baker's chocolate, pinch of salt, 2 level tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, 2 eggs (yolks), 6 level tablespoonfuls of sugar, 2 teaspoonfuls of vanilla, 5 eggs (whites). put milk, chocolate and salt in double-boiler; mix cornstarch in a small quantity of cold milk, and stir into the hot milk when the chocolate has been melted; stir until smooth, then cook twelve minutes. mix together the yolks of the eggs and sugar, then pour the hot mixture over it; cook again one or two minutes, stirring. when very cold, just before serving, add the vanilla and fold in the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs. pile lightly in a glass dish and serve with lady fingers. a meringue can be made of the whites of the eggs and sugar, then folded in the chocolate mixture, but it does not stand as long. cocoa marble cake 6 level tablespoonfuls of butter, 1 cup of granulated sugar, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla, 3/4 a cup of milk. three level teaspoonfuls of baking powder, about one and three-quarter cups of sifted flour, or flour enough to make mixture stiff enough to drop from the spoon. mix in the order given. reserve one-third of this mixture and add to it four level tablespoonfuls of baker's cocoa and to the other one cup of shredded cocoanut. bake thirty-five or forty minutes according to size and shape of pan. chocolate marble cake this is the same as the cocoa marble cake. add to one-third of the mixture one and one-half squares of baker's chocolate in place of the cocoa, and one cup of chopped walnuts to the other part in place of the shredded cocoanut. chocolate jelly 1 pint of boiling water, 1/3 a package of gelatine, 2 pinches of salt, 2 level tablespoonfuls of sugar, 1-1/2 squares of baker's chocolate, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla. put the water, salt and chocolate in a saucepan. cook, stirring until the chocolate melts, then let it boil for three or five minutes. soften the gelatine in a little cold water and pour the boiling mixture over it. stir until dissolved, then add sugar and vanilla. pour into a mould and set aside to harden, serve with cream and powdered sugar or sweetened whipped cream. cottage pudding 4 level tablespoonfuls of butter, 2 eggs, 1 cup of sugar, 3/4 a cup of milk. two level teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one and three-quarter cups of sifted flour or enough to make mixture stiff enough to drop from the spoon. bake in buttered gem pans in moderately hot oven twenty-three or twenty-five minutes. if the cake springs back after pressing a finger on the top, it shows that it is baked enough. to make a cocoa cottage pudding add to the above rule six level tablespoonfuls of cocoa. serve with a vanilla sauce. vanilla sauce 2 level tablespoonfuls of butter, 1 cup of boiling water, 2 level tablespoonfuls of flour, 4 level tablespoonfuls of sugar, pinch of salt, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla. melt butter in saucepan, add flour and salt and mix until smooth; add slowly the boiling water, stirring and beating well. add sugar and milk. cocoanut soufflé 1 cup of milk, 1 pinch of salt, 3 level tablespoonfuls of flour, softened in a little cold milk. 2 level tablespoonfuls of butter, 4 level tablespoonfuls of sugar, yolks of 4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla, 1 cup of shredded cocoanut, whites of 4 eggs. heat milk, add salt and flour and cook ten minutes after it has thickened. mix together, butter, sugar and yolks of eggs. pour hot mixture over, stirring well and set aside to cool. add vanilla and cocoanut. lastly fold in the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs. bake in buttered pan, in moderate oven until firm. serve hot with chocolate sauce. chocolate sauce 2 level tablespoonfuls of butter, 1 level tablespoonful of flour, pinch of salt, 1 cup of boiling water, 1 square of baker's chocolate, 4 level tablespoonfuls of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla. melt butter in saucepan, add dry flour and salt and mix until smooth, then add slowly the hot water, beating well. add the square of chocolate and sugar and stir until melted. add vanilla, just before serving. cocoa biscuit 2 cups or 1 pint of sifted flour, 3 level teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 1/2 a teaspoonful of salt, 2 level tablespoonfuls of sugar, 4 level tablespoonfuls of baker's cocoa, 2 level tablespoonfuls of butter or lard, 2/3 a cup of milk or enough to make a firm but not a stiff dough. sift all the dry ingredients together, rub in the butter with the tips of the fingers. stir in the required amount of milk. turn out on slightly floured board, roll or pat out the desired thickness, place close together in pan and bake in very hot oven ten or fifteen minutes. cocoa fudge [illustration: cocoa fudge.] 1/2 a cup of milk, 3 level tablespoonfuls of butter, 2-1/2 cups of powdered sugar, 6 tablespoonfuls of baker's cocoa, pinch of salt, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla. mix all ingredients together but vanilla; cook, stirring constantly, until it begins to boil, then cook slowly, stirring occasionally, eight or ten minutes, or until it makes a firm ball when dropped in cold water. when cooked enough, add the vanilla and beat until it seems like very cold molasses in winter. pour into a buttered pan; when firm, cut in squares. great care must be taken not to beat too much, because it cannot be poured into the pan, and will not have a gloss on top. miss m.e. robinson's recipes plain chocolate 1 ounce or square of baker's premium chocolate, 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 1/8 a teaspoonful of salt, 1 pint of boiling water, 1 pint of milk. place the chocolate, sugar and salt in the agate chocolate-pot or saucepan, add the boiling water and boil three minutes, stirring once or twice, as the chocolate is not grated. add the milk and allow it time to heat, being careful not to boil the milk, and keep it closely covered, as this prevents the scum from forming. when ready to serve turn in chocolate-pitcher and beat with dover egg-beater until light and foamy. cocoa doughnuts one egg, one-half a cup of sugar, one-half a cup of milk, one-quarter teaspoonful of salt, one-quarter teaspoonful of cinnamon extract (burnett's), two cups of flour, one-quarter cup of baker's breakfast cocoa, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder. mix in the order given, sifting the baking powder and cocoa with the flour. roll to one-third an inch in thickness, cut and fry. cocoa sponge cake 3 eggs, 1-1/2 cups of sugar, 1/2 a cup of cold water, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla, 1-3/4 cups of flour, 1/4 a cup of baker's cocoa, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 1 teaspoonful of cinnamon. beat yolks of eggs light, add water, vanilla and sugar; beat again thoroughly; then add the flour, with which the baking powder, cocoa and cinnamon have been sifted. fold in the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs. bake in a rather quick oven for twenty-five or thirty minutes. cocoa marble cake 1/3 a cup of butter, 1 cup of sugar, 1 egg, 1/2 a cup of milk, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla, 2 cups of flour, 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 3 tablespoonfuls of baker's cocoa. cream the butter, add sugar, vanilla and egg; beat thoroughly, then add flour (in which is mixed the baking powder) and milk, alternately, until all added. to one-third of the mixture add the cocoa, and drop the white and brown mixture in spoonfuls into small, deep pans, and bake about forty minutes in moderate oven. cocoa buns 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, 1/3 a cup of sugar, 1 egg, 1/4 a teaspoonful of salt, 1 cup of scalded milk, 2 compressed yeast cakes softened in 1/2 a cup of warm water, 1/4 a teaspoonful of extract cinnamon, 1/2 a cup of baker's breakfast cocoa, 3-1/2 to 4 cups of flour. mix in order given, having dough as soft as can be handled, turn onto moulding board, roll into a square about an inch in thickness, sprinkle on one-half cup of currants, fold the sides to meet the centre, then each end to centre, and fold again. roll as at first, using another one-half cup currants, fold, roll and fold again. place in a bowl which is set in pan of warm water, let raise forty minutes. shape, place in pan, let raise until doubled in size. bake fifteen to twenty minutes. as you take from oven, brush the top with white of one egg beaten with one-half cup confectioners' sugar. let stand five minutes. then they are ready to serve. mrs. rorer's chocolate cake 2 ounces of chocolate, 4 eggs, 1/2 a cup of milk, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla, 1/2 a cup of butter, 1-1/2 cups of sugar, 1 heaping teaspoonful of baking powder, 1-3/4 cups of flour. dissolve the chocolate in five tablespoonfuls of boiling water. beat the butter to a cream, add the yolks, beat again, then the milk, then the melted chocolate and flour. give the whole a vigorous beating. now beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and stir them carefully into the mixture; add the vanilla and baking powder. mix quickly and lightly, turn into well-greased cake pan and bake in a moderate oven forty-five minutes.--_from mrs. rorer's cook book._ mrs. lincoln's chocolate caramels one cup of molasses, half a cup of sugar, one-quarter of a pound of chocolate cut fine, half a cup of milk, and one heaping tablespoonful of butter. boil all together, stirring all the time. when it hardens in cold water, pour it into shallow pans, and as it cools cut in small squares.--_from mrs. lincoln's boston cook book._ miss farmer's chocolate nougat cake 1/4 a cup of butter, 1-1/2 cups of powdered sugar, 1 egg, 1 cup of milk, 2 cups of bread flour, 3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 1/2 teaspoonful of vanilla, 2 squares of chocolate, melted, 1/2 a cup of powdered sugar, 2/3 a cup of almonds blanched and shredded. cream the butter, add gradually one and one-half cups of sugar, and egg unbeaten; when well mixed, add two-thirds milk, flour mixed and sifted with baking powder, and vanilla. to melted chocolate add one-third a cup of powdered sugar, place on range, add gradually remaining milk, and cook until smooth. cool slightly and add to cake mixture. bake fifteen to twenty minutes in round layer-cake pans. put between layers and on top of cake white mountain cream sprinkled with almonds.--_from boston cooking school cook book--fannie merritt farmer._ mrs. armstrong's chocolate pudding soften three cups of stale bread in an equal quantity of milk. melt two squares of walter baker & co.'s chocolate over hot water and mix with half a cup of sugar, a little salt, three beaten eggs and half a teaspoonful of vanilla. mix this thoroughly with the bread and place in well-buttered custard-cups. steam about half an hour (according to size) and serve in the cups or turned out on warm plate.--_mrs. helen armstrong._ mrs. armstrong's chocolate charlotte soak a quarter of a package of gelatine in one-fourth of a cupful of cold water. whip one pint of cream to a froth and put it in a bowl, which should be placed in a pan of ice water. put an ounce of walter baker & co.'s chocolate in a small pan with two tablespoonfuls of sugar and one of boiling water, and stir over the hot fire until smooth and glossy. add to this a gill of hot milk and the soaked gelatine, and stir until the gelatine is dissolved. sprinkle a generous half cupful of powdered sugar over the cream. now add the chocolate and gelatine mixture and stir gently until it begins to thicken. line a quart charlotte mould with lady fingers, and when the cream is so thick that it will just pour, turn it gently into the mould. place the charlotte in a cold place for an hour or more, and at serving time turn out on a flat dish.--_mrs. helen armstrong._ chocolate jelly with crystallized green gages dissolve in a quart of water three tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate; let come to a boil; simmer ten minutes; add a cup of sugar and a box of gelatine (that has been softened in a cup of water) and strain through a jelly bag or two thicknesses of cheese-cloth. when almost cold, add a dessertspoonful of vanilla and a tablespoonful of brandy. then whisk well; add half a pound of crystallized green gages cut into small pieces; pour into a pretty mould, and when cold serve with whipped cream. mrs. bedford's chocolate crullers cream two tablespoonfuls of butter and one-half of a cupful of sugar; gradually add the beaten yolks of three eggs and one and one-half cupfuls more of sugar, one cupful of sour milk, one teaspoonful of vanilla, two ounces of chocolate grated and melted over hot water, one-third of a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in one-half of a teaspoonful of boiling water, the whites of the eggs whipped to a stiff froth, and sufficient sifted flour to make a soft dough. roll out, cut into oblongs; divide each into three strips, leaving the dough united at one end. braid loosely, pinch the ends together and cook until golden-brown in smoking-hot fat.--_mrs. cornelia c. bedford._ mrs. bedford's hot cocoa sauce for ice-cream boil together one and one-half cupfuls of water and one cupful of sugar for two minutes; add one tablespoonful of arrowroot dissolved in a little cold water, stir for a moment, then boil until clear. add two tablespoonfuls of cocoa which has been dissolved in a little hot water and a tiny pinch of salt and boil three minutes longer. take from the fire and add one teaspoonful of vanilla.--_mrs. cornelia c. bedford._ mrs. bedford's chocolate macaroons grate one-quarter of a pound of chocolate and mix one-quarter of a pound of sifted powdered sugar and one-quarter of a pound of blanched and ground almonds. add a pinch of cinnamon and mix to a soft paste with eggs beaten until thick. drop in half-teaspoonfuls on slightly buttered paper and bake in a moderate oven. do not take from the paper until cold; then brush the under side with cold water, and the paper can be readily stripped off.--_mrs. cornelia c. bedford._ mrs. ewing's creamy cocoa stir together in a saucepan half a cup of walter baker & co.'s breakfast cocoa, half a cup of flour, half a cup of granulated sugar and half a teaspoonful of salt. add gradually one quart of boiling water and let the mixture boil five minutes, stirring it constantly. remove from the fire, add a quart of boiling milk, and serve. if desired a spoonful of whipped cream may be put in each cup before filling with the cocoa. the proportions given will make delicious, creamy cocoa, sufficient to serve twelve persons. the flour should be sifted before it is measured.--_by mrs. emma p. ewing, author of "the art of cookery."_ mrs. ewing's creamy chocolate mix together half a cup of sifted flour, half a cup of granulated sugar and half a teaspoonful of salt. put into a saucepan half a cup of walter baker & co.'s premium no. 1 chocolate, finely shaved. add one quart of boiling water, stir until dissolved, add the flour, sugar and salt, and boil gently, stirring constantly, five minutes. then stir in a quart of boiling milk, and serve with or without whipped cream.--_mrs. emma p. ewing, author of "the art of cookery."_ mrs. hill's cocoa frappé mix half a pound of cocoa and three cupfuls of sugar; cook with two cupfuls of boiling water until smooth; add to three quarts and a half of milk scalded with cinnamon bark; cook for ten minutes. beat in the beaten whites of two eggs mixed with a cupful of sugar and a pint of whipped cream. cool, flavor with vanilla extract, and freeze. serve in cups. garnish with whipped cream.--_janet mckenzie hill--ladies' home journal._ mrs. hill's chocolate puffs stir a cupful of flour into a cupful of water and half a cupful of butter, boiling together; remove from fire, beat in an ounce of melted chocolate, and, one at a time, three large eggs. shape with forcing bag and rose tube. bake, cut off the tops and put into each cake a tablespoonful of strawberry preserves. cover with whipped cream sweetened and flavored.--_janet mckenzie hill--ladies' home journal._ miss farmer's chocolate cream candy 2 cups of sugar, 2/3 a cup of milk, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 2 squares of chocolate, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla. put butter into granite saucepan; when melted add sugar and milk. heat to boiling point; then add chocolate, and stir constantly until chocolate is melted. boil thirteen minutes, remove from fire, add vanilla, and beat until creamy and mixture begins to sugar slightly around edge of saucepan. pour at once into a buttered pan, cool slightly and mark in squares. omit vanilla, and add, while cooking, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of cinnamon.--_boston cooking school cook book--fannie merritt farmer._ mrs. salzbacher's chocolate hearts melt, by standing over hot water, three ounces of unsweetened chocolate; add a pound of sifted powdered sugar and mix thoroughly; work to a stiff yet pliable paste with the unbeaten whites of three eggs (or less), adding vanilla to flavor. if the paste seems too soft, add more sugar. break off in small pieces and roll out about one-fourth of an inch thick, sprinkling the board and paste with granulated sugar instead of flour. cut with a tiny heart-shaped cake cutter (any other small cake cutter will do), and place on pans oiled just enough to prevent sticking. bake in a very moderate oven. when done, they will feel firm to the touch, a solid crust having formed over the top. they should be very light, and will loosen easily from the pan after being allowed to stand a moment to cool. the success of these cakes depends upon the oven, which should not be as cool as for meringue, nor quite so hot as for sponge cake. if properly made, they are very excellent and but little labor. use the yolks for chocolate whips.--_from "good housekeeping."_ cocoa charlotte (without cream) 1 pint of water, whites of 2 eggs, 1/2 a teaspoonful of vanilla, 1/2 a cup of sugar, 2 level tablespoonfuls of cornstarch, 1/2 a teaspoonful of cinnamon, 3 tablespoonfuls of cocoa. dissolve the cornstarch in a quarter of a cup of cold water, add it to the pint of boiling water, stir until it thickens, add the sugar and the cocoa, which have been thoroughly mixed together. remove from the fire, add the cinnamon and vanilla, and pour slowly over the stiffly beaten whites of eggs. pour at once into a pudding mould, and put away in a cold place to harden. serve with plain cream.--_mabel richards dulon._ chocolate fudge with fruit two cups of sugar, one-half cup of milk, one-half cup of molasses, one-half cup of butter; mix all together and boil seven minutes; add one-half cup of baker's chocolate and boil seven minutes longer. then add two tablespoonfuls of figs, two tablespoonfuls of raisins, one-half a cup of english walnuts and one teaspoonful of vanilla. chocolate macaroons stir to a paste whites of seven eggs, three-fourths a pound of sifted sugar, one-half a pound of almonds pounded very fine, and two ounces of grated baker's chocolate. have ready wafer paper cut round, on which lay pieces of the mixture rolled to fit the wafer. press one-half a blanched almond on each macaroon and bake in a moderate oven. petits four bake a simple, light sponge cake in a shallow biscuit tin or dripping pan, and when cold turn out on the moulding board and cut into small dominoes or diamonds. they should be about an inch in depth. split each one and spread jelly or frosting between the layers, then ice tops and sides with different tinted icings, pale green flavored with pistachio, pale pink with rose, yellow with orange, white with almond. little domino cakes are also pretty. ice the cakes on top and sides with white icing, then when hard put on a second layer of chocolate, using _walter baker & co.'s unsweetened chocolate_ and made as for layer cake, dipping the brush in the melted chocolate to make the spots. candied violets, bits of citron cut in fancy shapes, candied cherries and angelica may all be utilized in making pretty designs in decoration.--_american housekeeper._ potato cake two cups of white sugar, one cup of butter, one cup of hot mashed potatoes, one cup of chopped walnuts, half a cup of sweet milk, two cups of flour, four eggs well beaten, five teaspoonfuls of melted chocolate, one tablespoonful each of cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder. bake in layers and use marshmallow filling. spanish chocolate cake one cup of sugar, one-half a cup of butter, one-half a cup of sweet milk, three cups of flour, two eggs, one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in hot water. put on the stove one cup of milk, one-half a cup of baker's chocolate, grated; stir until dissolved; then stir into it one cup of sugar and the yolk of one egg stirred together; when cool flavor with vanilla. while this is cooling beat up the first part of the cake and add the chocolate custard. bake in layers. ice on top and between the layers. _home made candies_ recipes specially prepared _by_ mrs. janet mckenzie hill peppermints, chocolate mints, etc. (uncooked fondant) [illustration: peppermints, chocolate mints, etc.] white of 1 egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, sifted confectioner's sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of essence of peppermint or a few drops of oil of peppermint, 1 or 2 squares of baker's chocolate, green color paste, pink color paste. beat the egg on a plate, add the cold water and gradually work in sugar enough to make a firm paste. divide the sugar paste into three parts. to one part add the peppermint and a very little of the green color paste. take the paste from the jar with a wooden tooth pick, add but a little. work and knead the mixture until the paste is evenly distributed throughout. roll the candy into a sheet one-fourth an inch thick, then cut out into small rounds or other shape with any utensil that is convenient. color the second part a very delicate pink, flavor with rose extract and cut out in the same manner as the first. to the last part add one or two squares of baker's chocolate, melted over hot water, and flavor with peppermint. add also a little water, as the chocolate will make the mixture thick and crumbly. begin by adding a tablespoonful of water, then add more if necessary, knead and cut these as the others. chocolate caramel walnuts (uncooked fondant) [illustration: chocolate caramel walnuts.] white of 1 egg, 3 tablespoonfuls of maple or caramel syrup, 1 tablespoonful of water, sifted confectioner's sugar, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla extract, 2 or more squares of baker's chocolate, english walnuts. beat the white of egg slightly, add the syrup, water, sugar as needed, the chocolate, melted over hot water, and the vanilla, also more water if necessary. work with a silver plated knife and knead until thoroughly mixed, then break off small pieces of uniform size and roll them into balls, in the hollow of the hand, flatten the balls a little, set the half of an english walnut upon each, pressing the nut into the candy and thus flattening it still more. the caramel gives the chocolate a particularly nice flavor. how to coat candies, &c., with baker's "dot" chocolate half a pound of "dot" chocolate will coat quite a number of candy or other "centers," but as depth of chocolate and an even temperature during the whole time one is at work are essential, it is well, when convenient, to melt a larger quantity of chocolate. when cold, the unused chocolate may be cut from the dish and set aside for use at a future time. if the chocolate be at the proper temperature when the centers are dipped in it, it will give a rich, glossy coating free from spots, and the candies will not have a spreading base. after a few centers have been dipped set them in a cool place to harden. the necessary utensils are a wire fork and a very small double boiler. the inner dish of the boiler should be of such size that the melted chocolate will come nearly to the top of it. break the chocolate in small pieces and surround with warm water, stir occasionally while melting. when the melted chocolate has cooled to about 80° f. it is ready to use. drop whatever is to be coated into the chocolate, with the fork push it below the chocolate, lift out, draw across the edge of the dish and drop onto a piece of table oil cloth or onto waxed paper. do not let a drop of water get into the chocolate. chocolate dipped peppermints (uncooked fondant) [illustration: chocolate dipped peppermints.] prepare green, white, pink and chocolate colored mints by the first recipe. after they have dried off a little run a spatula under each and turn to dry the other side. coat with baker's "dot" chocolate. ginger, cherry, apricot and nut chocolates [illustration: ginger, cherry, apricot and nut chocolates.] white of 1 egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, sifted confectioner's sugar, almond or rose extract, preserved ginger, candied cherries, candied apricots, halves of almond, halves of pecan nuts, 1/2 a pound of baker's "dot" chocolate. use the first four ingredients in making uncooked fondant. (caramel syrup is a great addition to this fondant, especially if nuts are to be used. use three tablespoonfuls of syrup and one tablespoonful of water with one egg white instead of the two tablespoonfuls of water indicated in the recipe). work the fondant for some time, then break off little bits and wrap around small pieces of the fruit, then roll in the hollow of the hand into balls or oblongs. for other candies, roll a piece of the fondant into a ball, flatten it with the fingers and use to cover a whole pecan or english walnut meat. set each shape on a plate as it is finished. they will harden very quickly. dip these, one by one, in baker's "dot" chocolate and set on an oil cloth. chocolate peanut clusters [illustration: chocolate peanut clusters.] shell a quart of freshly-roasted peanuts and remove the skins. drop the peanuts, one by one, into the center of a dish of "dot" chocolate made ready for use; lift out onto oil cloth with a dipping fork (a wire fork comes for the purpose, but a silver oyster fork answers nicely) to make groups of three nuts,--two below, side by side, and one above and between the others. chocolate coated almonds [illustration: chocolate coated almonds.] select nuts that are plump at the ends. use them without blanching. brush, to remove dust. melt "dot" chocolate and when cooled properly drop the nuts, one at a time, into the center of it; push the nuts under with the fork, then drop onto waxed paper or oil cloth. in removing the fork make a design on the top of each nut. these are easily prepared and are particularly good. plain and chocolate dipped parisian sweets [illustration: chocolate dipped parisian sweets.] 1/2 a cup of sultana raisins, 5 figs, 1 cup of dates, 2 ounces citron, 2/3 a cup of nut meats, (almonds, filberts, pecans or walnuts, one variety or a mixture), 1-1/2 ounces of baker's chocolate, 1/3 a cup of confectioner's sugar, 1/4 a teaspoonful of salt, chocolate fondant or baker's "dot" chocolate. pour boiling water over the figs and dates, let boil up once, then drain as dry as possible; remove stones from the dates, the stem ends from the figs; chop the fruit and nut meats (almonds should be blanched) in a food chopper; add the salt; and the sugar and work the whole to a smooth paste; add the chocolate, melted, and work it evenly through the mass. add more sugar if it is needed and roll the mixture into a sheet one-fourth an inch thick. cut into strips an inch wide. cut the strips into diamond-shaped pieces (or squares); roll these in confectioner's sugar or dip them in chocolate fondant or in baker's "dot" chocolate, and sprinkle a little fine-chopped pistachio nut meats on the top of the dipped pieces. when rolling the mixture use confectioner's sugar on board and rolling pin. stuffed dates, chocolate dipped [illustration: stuffed dates, chocolate dipped.] cut choice dates open on one side and remove the seeds. fill the open space in the dates with a strip of preserved ginger or pineapple, chopped nuts or chopped nuts mixed with white or chocolate fondant; press the dates into a compact form to keep in the filling, then dip them, one by one, in "dot" chocolate. chocolate oysterettes, plain and with chopped figs [illustration: chocolate oysterettes.] oyster crackers, salted preferred, fine-chopped, roasted peanuts or raisins or 3 or 4 basket figs or a little french fruit cut in very small bits, 1/2 a pound or more of baker's "dot" chocolate. select fresh-baked crackers free from crumbs. dip in "dot" chocolate, made ready as in previous recipes, and dispose on oil cloth or waxed paper. for a change add figs or other fruit, cut very fine, or chopped nuts to the chocolate ready for dipping. turkish paste with french fruit, chocolate flavored [illustration: turkish paste with french fruit.] 3 level tablespoonfuls of granulated gelatine, 1/2 a cup of cold water, 2 cups of sugar, 2/3 a cup of cold water, 1 teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, 2 squares of baker's chocolate, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla extract, 1 cup of french candied fruit, cherries, angelica, citron, etc., chopped fine. let the gelatine stand in the half cup of cold water until it has taken up all of the water. stir the sugar and the two-thirds a cup of cold water over the fire until the sugar is dissolved and the syrup is boiling, then add the gelatine and let cook twenty minutes; add the cinnamon, the chocolate, melted over hot water, and beat all together, then add the vanilla and the fruit; let stand in a cool place for a time, then when it thickens a little turn into an _un_buttered bread pan and set aside until the next day. to unmold separate the paste from the pan--at the edge--with a sharp-pointed knife. sift confectioner's sugar over the top, then with the tips of the fingers gently pull the paste from the pan to a board dredged with confectioner's sugar; cut into strips, then into small squares. roll each square in confectioner's sugar. in cutting keep sugar between the knife and the paste. choice chocolate pecan pralines [illustration: chocolate pecan pralines.] 3 cups of granulated sugar, 1 cup of cream, 1 cup of sugar cooked to caramel, 2 squares of baker's chocolate, 3 cups of pecan nut meats. stir the sugar and cream over the fire until the sugar is melted, then let boil to the soft ball degree, or to 236° f. add the chocolate, melted or shaved fine, and beat it in, then pour the mixture onto the cup of sugar cooked to caramel; let the mixture boil up once, then remove from the fire; add the nut meats and beat until the mass begins to thicken. when cold enough to hold its shape drop onto an oil cloth or marble, a teaspoonful in a place, and at once set a half nut meat on each. two persons are needed to make these pralines, one to drop the mixture, the other to decorate with the halves of the nuts. the mixture becomes smooth and firm almost instantly. maple or brown sugar may be used in place of all or a part of the quantity of granulated sugar designated. vassar fudge [illustration: vassar fudge.] 2 cups of white granulated sugar, 1 cup of cream, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 1/4 a cake of baker's premium no. 1 chocolate. put in the sugar and cream, and when this becomes hot put in the chocolate, broken up into fine pieces. stir vigorously and constantly. put in butter when it begins to boil. stir until it creams when beaten on a saucer. then remove and beat until quite cool and pour into buttered tins. when cold cut in diamond-shaped pieces. smith college fudge [illustration: smith college fudge.] melt one-quarter cup of butter. mix together in a separate dish one cup of white sugar, one cup of brown sugar, one-quarter cup of molasses and one-half cup of cream. add this to the butter, and after it has been brought to a boil continue boiling for two and one-half minutes, stirring rapidly. then add two squares of baker's premium no. 1 chocolate, scraped fine. boil this five minutes, stirring it first rapidly, and then more slowly towards the end. after it has been taken from the fire, add one and one-half teaspoonfuls of vanilla. then stir constantly until the mass thickens. pour into buttered pan and set in a cool place. wellesley marshmallow fudge [illustration: wellesley marshmallow fudge.] heat two cups of granulated sugar and one cup of rich milk (cream is better). add two squares of baker's chocolate, and boil until it hardens in cold water. just before it is done add a small piece of butter, then begin to stir in marshmallows, crushing and beating them with a spoon. continue to stir in marshmallows, after the fudge has been taken from the fire, until half a pound has been stirred into the fudge. cool in sheets three-quarters of an inch thick, and cut in cubes. double fudge [illustration: double fudge.] 2 cups of granulated sugar, 2 squares of baker's chocolate, 1/2 a cup of cream, 1 tablespoonful of butter. boil seven minutes; then beat and spread in buttered tin to cool. 2 cups of brown sugar, 1/2 a cup of cream, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla extract, 1 cup of walnut meats, chopped fine, butter size of a walnut. boil ten minutes; then beat and pour on top of fudge already in pan. when cool, cut in squares. marbled fudge [illustration: marbled fudge.] 2 cups of granulated sugar, 1/4 a cup of glucose (pure corn syrup), 1-1/2 cups of cream, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 2 squares of baker's chocolate, scraped fine or melted, 2 teaspoonfuls of vanilla. stir the sugar, glucose and cream over a slack fire until the sugar is melted; move the saucepan to a hotter part of the range and continue stirring until the mixture boils, then let boil, stirring every three or four minutes very gently, until the thermometer registers 236° f., or, till a soft ball can be formed in cold water. remove from the fire and pour one-half of the mixture over the chocolate. set both dishes on a cake rack, or on something that will allow the air to circulate below the dishes. when the mixture cools a little, get some one to beat one dish of the fudge; add a teaspoonful of vanilla to each dish, and beat until thick and slightly grainy, then put the mixture in a pan, lined with waxed paper, first a little of one and then of the other, to give a marbled effect. when nearly cold turn from the pan, peel off the paper and cut into cubes. fudge hearts or rounds [illustration: fudge hearts or rounds.] 2 cups of granulated sugar, 1/3 a cup of condensed milk, 1/3 a cup of water, 1/4 a cup of butter, 1-1/2 squares of baker's chocolate, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla extract. boil the sugar, milk and water to 236° f., or to the "soft ball" degree; stir gently every few minutes; add the butter and let boil up vigorously, then remove from the fire and add the chocolate; let stand undisturbed until cool, then add the vanilla and beat the candy until it thickens and begins to sugar. pour into a pan lined with paper to stand until cooled somewhat; turn from the mold and with a french cutter or a sharp edged tube cut into symmetrical shapes. marshmallow fudge [illustration: marshmallow fudge.] 1st batch 2 cups of granulated sugar, 1 cup of cream, 1/4 a teaspoonful of salt, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 2 squares of baker's chocolate, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla, nearly half a pound of marshmallows, split in halves. 2nd batch 2 cups of granulated sugar, 1 cup of cream, 1/4 a teaspoonful of salt, 1 tablespoonful of butter, 2 squares of baker's chocolate, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla. start with the first batch and when this is nearly boiled enough, set the second batch to cook, preparing it in the same manner as the first. stir the sugar and cream, over a rather slack fire, until the sugar is melted, when the sugar boils wash down the sides of the pan as in making fondant, set in the thermometer and cook over a quick fire, without stirring, to the soft ball degree, 236° f.; add the butter, salt and chocolate, melted or shaved fine, and let boil up vigorously, then remove to a cake cooler (or two spoon handles to allow a circulation of air below the pan). in the meantime the second batch should be cooking and the marshmallows be gotten ready. when the first batch is about cold add the vanilla and beat the candy vigorously until it begins to thicken, then turn it into a pan lined with waxed paper. at once dispose the halves of marshmallows close together upon the top of the fudge. soon the other dish of fudge will be ready; set it into cold water and when nearly cold, add the vanilla and beat as in the first batch, then pour it over the marshmallows. when the whole is about cold turn it onto a marble, or hardwood board, pull off the paper and cut into cubes. if one is able to work very quickly, but one batch need be prepared, half of it being spread over the marshmallows. chocolate dipped fruit fudge [illustration: chocolate dipped fruit fudge.] fruit fudge 1-1/2 cups of granulated sugar, 1 cup of maple syrup, 1-1/2 cups of glucose (pure corn syrup), 1/2 a cup of thick cream, or 1/3 a cup of milk and 1/4 a cup of butter, 3/4 a cup of fruit, figs, and candied cherries and apricots, cut in small pieces. chocolate for dipping 1/2 a cake or more of baker's "dot" chocolate. stir the sugar, syrup, glucose and cream until the sugar is melted, cover and let boil three or four minutes, then uncover and let boil stirring often but very gently until a soft ball may be formed in cold water, or, until the thermometer registers 236° f. set the saucepan on a cake cooler and when the mixture becomes cool, add the fruit and beat until it becomes thick, then turn into pans lined with waxed paper. in about fifteen minutes cut into squares. coat these with the "dot" chocolate. chocolate cocoanut cakes [illustration: chocolate cocoanut cakes.] 2/3 a cup of granulated sugar, 1/4 a cup scant measure of water, one cup, less one tablespoonful, of glucose, 1/2 a pound of dessicated cocoanut, 1/2 a pound or baker's "dot" chocolate. heat the sugar, water and glucose to the boiling point, add the cocoanut and stir constantly while cooking to the soft ball degree, or, until a little of the candy dropped on a cold marble may be rolled into a ball. drop, by small teaspoonfuls, onto a marble or waxed paper, to make small, thick, rather uneven rounds. when cold coat with "dot" chocolate melted over hot water and cooled properly. these cakes are very easily coated. baker's chocolate "divinity" [illustration: baker's chocolate "divinity."] 1-1/2 cups of brown sugar, 1 cup of maple syrup, 1/2 a cup of glucose pure corn syrup, 1/2 a cup of water, 1/4 a teaspoonful of salt, the whites of 2 eggs, 1 cup of nut meats, chopped fine, 2 squares of baker's chocolate, broken in pieces. let the sugar, syrup, glucose and water stand on the back of the range, stirring occasionally, until the sugar is melted, then cover and let boil five minutes. remove the cover and let boil to soft crack, 287° f., or, until when tested in water a ball that rattles in the cup will be formed. add the salt and chocolate and beat over the fire, until the chocolate is melted, then pour in a fine stream onto the whites of eggs, beaten dry, beating constantly meanwhile; add the nuts and pour into a pan lined with waxed paper. in about fifteen minutes lift the candy from the pan (by the ends of the paper left for the purpose) and cut it into small oblongs or squares. the candy must be stirred constantly during the last of the cooking. in cooking without a thermometer one is liable to remove the candy from the fire too soon--if this happens, return, egg whites and all, to the saucepan, set this into a dish of boiling water and stir constantly until the mixture thickens, then pour into the pan lined with paper. on no account let even a few drops of water boil into the candy. chocolate nougatines [illustration: chocolate nougatines.] 1 cup of granulated sugar, 1/2 a cup of glucose, 1/2 a cup of honey (strained), piece of paraffine size of a pea, 1/4 a cup of water, 1/4 a teaspoonful of salt, the whites of 2 eggs, beaten dry, 1 cup of almond or english walnut meats, chopped fine, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla, about 1/2 a pound of baker's "dot" chocolate. put the sugar, glucose, honey, paraffine and water over the fire, stir occasionally and let boil to the hard ball degree, about 248° f. add the salt to the eggs before beating them, and gradually pour on part of the syrup, beating constantly meanwhile with the egg beater; return the rest of the syrup to the fire and let boil until it is brittle when tested in cold water or to 290° f. then turn this gradually onto the eggs, beating constantly meanwhile. return the whole to the saucepan, set over the fire on an asbestos mat and beat constantly until it becomes crisp when tested in cold water. pour into a buttered pan a little larger than an ordinary bread pan and set aside to become cold. when cold cut into pieces about an inch and a quarter long and three-eighths of an inch wide and thick. coat these with "dot" chocolate. plain chocolate caramels [illustration: plain chocolate caramels.] 2-1/2 cups of sugar, 3/4 cup of glucose, (pure corn syrup), 1/2 a cup of butter, 1/8 a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, 2-1/2 cups of whole milk, (not skimmed), 2-1/2 squares of baker's chocolate, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla extract. put the sugar, glucose, butter, cream of tartar and one cup of the milk over the fire, stir constantly, and when the mass has boiled a few moments, gradually stir in the rest of the milk. do not let the mixture stop boiling while the milk is being added. stir every few moments and cook to 248° f., or, until when tested in cold water, a hard ball may be formed; add the chocolate and vanilla and beat them thoroughly through the candy, then turn it into two bread pans. when nearly cold cut into squares. chocolate nut caramels [illustration: chocolate nut caramels.] 2 cups of granulated sugar, 1-1/2 cups of glucose (pure corn syrup), 2 cups of cream, 1 cup of butter, 3 or 4 squares of baker's chocolate, 1-1/2 cups of english walnut meats, 2 teaspoonfuls of vanilla extract. put the sugar, glucose, _one_ cup of the cream and the butter over the fire; stir and cook until the mixture boils vigorously, then gradually add the other cup of cream. do not allow the mixture to stop boiling while the cream is being added. cook until the thermometer registers 250° f., stirring gently--move the thermometer, to stir beneath it--every four or five minutes. without a thermometer boil until--when tested by dropping a little in cold water--a hard ball may be formed in the water. remove from the fire, add the chocolate and nuts and beat until the chocolate is melted; beat in the vanilla and turn into a biscuit pan, nicely oiled or buttered, to make a sheet three-fourths an inch thick. when nearly cold turn from the pan and cut into cubes. ribbon caramels [illustration: ribbon caramels.] chocolate layers 1-1/4 cups of granulated sugar, 1/2 cup of glucose (pure corn syrup) _scant_ measure, 1/4 a cup of butter, 1/16 a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, 1-1/4 cups of rich milk, 1-1/4 squares of baker's premium chocolate, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla extract. white layer 2/3 a cup of granulated sugar, 1/4 (scant) a cup of water, 1 cup, less one tablespoonful, of glucose (pure corn syrup), 1/3 a pound of dessicated cocoanut. put the sugar, glucose, butter, cream of tartar and the fourth a cup of milk over the fire, stir until the mixture boils, then very gradually stir in the rest of the milk. let cook, stirring occasionally, to 248° f., or until, when tested in water or on a cold marble, a pretty firm ball may be formed. add the chocolate and vanilla, mix thoroughly and turn into two well-buttered shallow pans. for the white layer, put the sugar, water and glucose over the fire, stir until boiling, then add the cocoanut and stir occasionally until a soft ball may be formed when a little of the mixture is dropped upon a cold marble. put this mixture over the fire, to dissolve the sugar, but do not let it begin to boil until the chocolate layers are turned into the pans. when the white mixture is ready, turn enough of it onto one of the chocolate layers to make a layer about one-third an inch thick. have the other chocolate layer cooled, by standing in cold water; remove it from the pan and dispose above the cocoanut layer. let stand until cold and firm, then cut in cubes; wrap each cube in waxed paper. fondant 4 cups of granulated sugar, 1-1/2 cups of cold water, 1/4 a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, or 3 drops of acetic acid. stir the sugar and water in a saucepan, set on the back part of the range, until the sugar is melted, then draw the saucepan to a hotter part of the range, and stir until the boiling point is reached; add the cream of tartar or acid and, with the hand or a cloth wet repeatedly in cold water, wash down the sides of the saucepan, to remove any grains of sugar that have been thrown there. cover the saucepan and let boil rapidly three or four minutes. remove the cover, set in the thermometer--if one is to be used--and let cook very rapidly to 240° f., or the soft ball degree. wet the hand in cold water and with it dampen a marble slab or a large platter, then without jarring the syrup turn it onto the marble or platter. do not scrape out the saucepan or allow the last of the syrup to drip from it, as sugary portions will spoil the fondant by making it grainy. when the syrup is cold, with a metal scraper or a wooden spatula, turn the edges of the mass towards the center, and continue turning the edges in until the mass begins to thicken and grow white, then work it up into a ball, scraping all the sugar from the marble onto the mass; knead slightly, then cover closely with a heavy piece of cotton cloth wrung out of cold water. let the sugar stand for an hour or longer to ripen, then remove the damp cloth and cut the mass into pieces; press these closely into a kitchen bowl, cover with a cloth wrung out of water (this cloth must not touch the fondant) and then with heavy paper. the fondant may be used the next day, but is in better condition after several days, and may be kept almost indefinitely, if the cloth covering it be wrung out of cold water and replaced once in five or six days. fondant may be used, white or delicately colored with vegetable color-pastes or with chocolate, as frosting for small cakes, or éclairs or for making candy "centers," to be coated with chocolate or with some of the same fondant tinted and flavored appropriately. almond chocolate creams centers 1/4 a cup of blanched almonds, chopped fine, 1/2 a cup of fondant, 1/4 a teaspoonful of vanilla, confectioner's sugar for kneading and shaping. chocolate coating about 1 cup of fondant, 2 squares of baker's chocolate, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla extract, few drops of water, as needed, halves of blanched almonds. mix the chopped almonds with the fondant and vanilla; add confectioner's sugar, a little at a time, and knead the mass thoroughly, on a marble or large platter; shape into a long roll, then cut into small pieces of the same size. shape these into balls a generous half inch in diameter and leave them about an hour to harden on the outside. put the fondant for the coating and the chocolate (shaved or broken in pieces) in a double boiler (with hot water in the lower receptacle); add the vanilla and the water and heat until melted; take out the spoon and put in a dipping fork (a wire fork costing about ten cents) beat the fondant, to keep it from crusting and drop in a "center;" with the fork cover it with fondant; put the fork under it and lift it out, scrape the fork lightly on the edge of the dish, to remove superfluous candy, turn the fork over and drop the bon-bon onto waxed paper. make a design with the fork in taking it from the candy. at once press half of a blanched almond on the top of the candy, or the design made with the fork will suffice. if at any time the coating be too thick, add a few drops of water. if any be left over, use it to coat whole nuts or cherries. [illustration: almond and cherry chocolate creams.] cherry chocolate creams centers 1/4 a cup of candied cherries, chopped fine, 1/2 a cup of fondant. chocolate coating about one cup of fondant, 2 squares of baker's chocolate, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla extract, bits of cherry. prepare the centers and coat in the same manner as the almond creams. chocolate peppermints [illustration: chocolate peppermints.] melt a little fondant and flavor it to taste with essence of peppermint; leave the mixture white or tint very delicately with green or pink color-paste. with a teaspoon drop the mixture onto waxed paper to make rounds of the same size--about one inch and a quarter in diameter--let these stand in a cool place about one hour. put about a cup of fondant in a double boiler, add two ounces of chocolate and a teaspoonful of boiling water, then stir (over hot water) until the fondant and chocolate are melted and evenly mixed together; then drop the peppermints, one by one, into the chocolate mixture, and remove them with the fork to a piece of oil cloth; let stand until the chocolate is set, when they are ready to use. fig-and-nut chocolates [illustration: fig and nut chocolates.] 5 figs, 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of water or sherry wine, 1/2 a cup of english walnut meats, powdered sugar, fondant, 3 or 4 ounces of baker's chocolate, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla. remove the stem and hard place around the blossom end of the figs, and let steam, with the water or wine, in a double boiler until softened, then add the nuts and chop very fine. add powdered sugar as is needed to shape the mixture into balls. melt the chocolate, using enough to secure the shade of brown desired in the coating and add to the fondant with the vanilla. coat the fig-and-nut balls and drop them with the fork onto a piece of oil cloth or waxed paper in the same manner as the cherry bon-bons. these may be dipped in "dot" chocolate instead of fondant. chocolate marshmallows [illustration: chocolate marshmallows.] cut the marshmallows in halves, and put them, one by one, cut side down, in chocolate fondant (as prepared for almond and cherry chocolate creams), melted over hot water and flavored to taste with vanilla. beat the chocolate with the fork, that it may not crust over, lift out the marshmallow, turn it and, in removing the fork, leave its imprint in the chocolate; sprinkle at once with a little fine-chopped pistachio nut meat. to prepare the nuts, set them over the fire in tepid water to cover, heat to the boiling point, drain, cover with cold water, then take them up, one by one, and with the thumb and finger push the meat from the skin. maple fondant acorns [illustration: maple fondant acorns.] 2 cups of maple syrup, 1-3/4 cups of granulated sugar, 3/4 a cup of cold water, confectioner's sugar, 2 or more squares of baker's chocolate, 1 teaspoon of vanilla, about 1/4 a cup of fine-chopped almonds, browned in the oven. make fondant of the syrup, granulated sugar and cold water, following the directions given for fondant made of granulated sugar (cream of tartar or other acid is not required in maple fondant). work some of the fondant, adding confectioner's sugar as needed, into cone shapes; let these stand an hour or longer to harden upon the outside. put a little of the fondant in a dish over hot water; add baker's chocolate and vanilla as desired and beat till the chocolate is evenly mixed through the fondant, then dip the cones in the chocolate and set them on a piece of oil cloth or waxed paper. when all are dipped, lift the first one dipped from the paper and dip the base again in the chocolate, and then in the chopped-and-browned almonds. continue until all have been dipped. chocolate almond bars [illustration: chocolate almond bars.] 1/2 a cup of sugar, 3/4 a cup of glucose, 1/2 a cup of water, (1/4 an ounce of paraffine at discretion), 1/2 a cup of blanched almonds, chopped fine, 1/3 the recipe for fondant, 3 or 4 ozs. of baker's chocolate, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla. melt the sugar in the water and glucose and let boil to about 252° f., or between a soft and a hard ball. without the paraffine cook a little higher than with it. add the almonds and the vanilla, mix thoroughly and turn onto a marble or platter over which powdered sugar has been sifted. turn out the candy in such a way that it will take a rectangular shape on the marble. when cool enough score it in strips about an inch and a quarter wide, and, as it grows cooler, lift the strips, one by one, to a board and cut them in pieces half or three-quarters of an inch wide. when cold, drop them, sugar side down, in chocolate fondant prepared for "dipping." with the fork push them below the fondant, lift out, drain as much as possible, and set onto oil cloth. these improve upon keeping. almond fondant sticks [illustration: almond fondant sticks.] 2-1/2 cups of coffee a or granulated sugar, 1/4 a cup of glucose, 1/2 a cup of water, 1/4 a pound of almond paste, 1/4 a pound of baker's premium chocolate, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla extract, 1/2 a pound of baker's "dot" chocolate. put the sugar, glucose and water over the fire. stir until the sugar is dissolved. wash down the sides of the kettle as in making fondant. let boil to the soft ball degree or to 238° f. add the almond paste, cut into small, thin pieces, let boil up vigorously, then turn onto a damp marble. when nearly cold turn to a cream with a wooden spatula. it will take considerable time to turn this mixture to fondant. cover and let stand half an hour. add the baker's premium chocolate, melted over hot water, and knead it in thoroughly. add at the same time the vanilla. the chocolate must be added warm. at once cut off a portion of the fondant and knead it into a round ball; then roll it lightly under the fingers into a long strip the shape and size of a lead pencil; form as many of these strips as desired; cut the strips into two-inch lengths and let stand to become firm. have ready the "dot" chocolate melted over hot water and in this coat the prepared sticks leaving the surface a little rough. almond fondant balls [illustration: almond fondant balls.] roll part of the almond fondant into small balls. some of the "dot" chocolate will be left after dipping the almond chocolate sticks. remelt this over hot water, and in it coat the balls lightly. as each ball is coated with the chocolate drop it onto a plate of chopped pistachio nut meats or of chopped cocoanut (fresh or dessicated). with a spoon sprinkle the chopped material over the balls. walnut cream-chocolates [illustration: walnut cream chocolates.] 2-1/2 cups of granulated sugar, 1/2 a cup of condensed milk, 1/2 a cup of water, 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of thick caramel syrup, a little water, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla, 1/2 a pound of baker's "dot" chocolate. put the sugar, condensed milk and water over the fire to boil, stir gently but often, and let cook to the soft ball stage, or to 238°f. pour on a damp marble and let stand undisturbed until cold; turn to a cream, then gather into a compact mass; cover with a bowl and let stand for thirty minutes; then knead the cream; put it into a double boiler; add the caramel syrup and the vanilla; stir constantly while the mixture becomes warm and thin; add a tablespoonful or two of water, if necessary, and drop the cream mixture into impressions made in cornstarch. use two teaspoons to drop the cream. when the candy is cold, pick it from the starch. with a small brush remove the starch that sticks to the candy shapes. coat each piece with "dot" chocolate. as each piece is coated and dropped onto the oil cloth, set half an english walnut meat upon the top. to mold candy in starch impressions many candies, especially such as are of some variety of fondant, are thin when warm and solidify on the outside when cold, so that they may be "dipped" or coated with chocolate. to shape candy of this sort, fill a low pan with cornstarch, making it smooth upon the top. have ready molds made of plaster paris, glued to a thin strip of wood, press these into the cornstarch; lift from the starch and repeat the impressions as many times as the space allows. if molds are not available a thimble, round piece of wood, or the stopper of an oil or vinegar cruet will answer the purpose, though the impressions must be made one at a time. chocolate butter creams [illustration: chocolate butter creams.] 2-1/2 cups of sugar, 1/2 a cup of water, 1/4 a cup of glucose, 1/4 a cup of butter, 2-1/2 ozs of baker's premium chocolate, 2 teaspoonfuls of vanilla, 1/2 a pound of baker's "dot" chocolate. put the sugar, water, glucose and butter over the fire; stir until the sugar is melted, then cook to the soft ball degree, or 236° f.; pour on a damp marble and leave until cold; then pour on the premium chocolate, melted over hot water, and with a spatula turn to a cream. this process is longer than with the ordinary fondant. cover the chocolate fondant with a bowl and let stand for thirty minutes; knead well and set over the fire in a double boiler; add the vanilla and stir until melted. the mixture is now ready to be dropped into small impressions in starch; when cold and brushed free of starch dip in "dot" chocolate. when dropping the chocolate mixture into the starch it should be just soft enough to run level on the top. if too soft it will not hold its shape in coating. fondant for soft chocolate creams 2-1/2 cups of sugar, 1/3 a cup of glucose (pure corn syrup), 1 cup of water. put the sugar, glucose and water over the fire and stir until boiling, then wash down the sides of the saucepan, cover and finish cooking as in making ordinary fondant. let cook to 238° f. turn the syrup onto a damp marble or platter and _before it becomes cold_ turn to a cream with a wooden spatula. when the fondant begins to stiffen, scrape at once into a bowl and cover with a damp cloth, but do not let the cloth touch the fondant. use this fondant in the following recipes. rose chocolate creams fondant, damask rose color-paste, 1/2 to 1 whole teaspoonful of rose extract, 1/2 a pound of baker's "dot" chocolate. put a part or the whole of the fondant into a double boiler over boiling water. with the point of a toothpick take up a little of the color-paste and add to the fondant; add the extract and stir until the mixture is hot, thin and evenly tinted. with two teaspoons drop the mixture into impressions made in starch; it should be hot and thin enough to run level on top. when the shapes are cold, remove from the starch, brush carefully and coat with "dot" chocolate. [illustration: rose and pistachio chocolate creams.] pistachio chocolate creams fondant, green color-paste, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla extract, 1/8 a teaspoonful of almond extract, pistachio nuts in slices and halves, 1/2 a pound of baker's "dot" chocolate. using green color-paste, vanilla and almond extract mold the fondant in long shapes. put a bit of nut in each impression, before filling it with fondant. when firm coat with "dot" chocolate and set half a pistachio nut on top. surprise chocolate creams [illustration: surprise chocolate creams.] fondant, candied or maraschino cherries, flavoring of almond or vanilla, chopped peanuts, 1/2 a pound of baker's "dot" chocolate. melt the fondant over hot water and add the flavoring. put a bit of cherry in the bottom of each starch impression, then turn in the melted fondant, to fill the impressions and have them level on the top. let the chocolate, broken in bits, be melted over warm water, then add as many chopped peanuts as can be well stirred into it; let cool to about 80° f. and in it drop the creams, one at a time; as coated dispose them on table oil cloth or waxed paper. chocolate peanut brittle [illustration: chocolate peanut brittle.] 1-1/2 cups of sugar, 2/3 a cup of water, 1/2 a cup of glucose (pure corn syrup), 2 level tablespoonfuls of butter, 1/2 a pound of _raw_ shelled peanuts, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla extract, 1 level teaspoonful of soda, 1 tablespoonful of cold water, 1/2 a pound or more of baker's "dot" chocolate. put the sugar, water and glucose over the fire; stir till the sugar is dissolved; wash down the sides of the saucepan with a cloth or the fingers dipped in cold water, cover and let boil three or four minutes, then uncover and let cook to 275° f. (when a little is cooled and chewed it clings but does not stick to the teeth) add the butter and peanuts and _stir constantly_ until the peanuts are nicely browned (or are of the color of well roasted peanuts). dissolve the soda in the cold water, add the vanilla and the soda and stir vigorously. when the candy is through foaming, turn it onto a warm and well-oiled marble or platter. as soon as it has cooled a little on the edges, take hold of it at the edge and pull out as thin as possible. loosen it from the receptacle at the center by running a spatula under it, then turn the whole sheet upside down, and again pull as thin as possible. break into small pieces and when cold coat with "dot" chocolate prepared as in previous recipes. half of a roasted peanut may be set upon each piece as coated. note that the peanuts used in the brittle are raw. the small spanish peanuts are the best for this purpose. after the peanuts are shelled, cover them with boiling water, let boil up once, then skim out and push off the skin, when they are ready to use. chocolate pop corn balls [illustration: chocolate pop corn balls.] 1-1/2 cups of sugar, 1/3 a cup of glucose, 2/3 a cup of water, 1/3 a cup of molasses, 3 tablespoonfuls of butter, 3 squares of baker's premium chocolate, 1 teaspoonful of vanilla extract, about 4 quarts of popped corn, well salted. set the sugar, glucose and water over the fire, stir until the sugar is melted, then wash down the sides of the saucepan, cover and let boil three or four minutes, then remove the cover and let cook without stirring to the hard ball degree; add the molasses and butter and stir constantly until brittle in cold water; remove from the fire and, as soon as the bubbling ceases, add the chocolate, melted over hot water, and the vanilla; stir, to mix the chocolate evenly through the candy, then pour onto the popped corn, mixing the two together meanwhile. with buttered hands lightly roll the mixture into small balls. press the mixture together only just enough to hold it in shape. discard all the hard kernels in the corn. have the corn warm and in a warm bowl. chocolate molasses kisses [illustration: chocolate molasses kisses.] 2 cups of coffee a sugar, 1/3 a cup of glucose, (pure corn syrup), 2/3 a cup of water, 1 cup of molasses, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, 1/4 a teaspoonful of salt, 4 ounces of baker's premium chocolate, 1 tablespoonful of vanilla extract, or 1 teaspoonful of essence of peppermint. put all the ingredients, save the salt, chocolate and flavoring, over the fire; let boil rapidly to 260°f., or until brittle when tested in cold water. during the last of the cooking the candy must be stirred constantly. pour onto an oiled platter or marble; pour the chocolate, melted over hot water, above the candy; as the candy cools on the edges, with a spatula or the fingers, turn the edges towards the center; continue this until the candy is cold enough to pull; pull over a hook until cold; add the flavoring, a little at a time, during the pulling, cut in short lengths and wrap in waxed paper. walter baker & co., ltd. established 1780 this house has grown to be the largest of its kind in the world and it has achieved that result by always maintaining the highest standard in the quality of its cocoa and chocolate preparations and selling them at the lowest price for which unadulterated articles of high grade can be put upon the market. under cover of a similarity in name, trade-mark, label or wrapper, a number of unscrupulous concerns have, within recent years, made attempts to get possession of the great market won by this house, by trading on its good name--selling to unsuspecting consumers goods of distinctly inferior quality by representing them to be the products of the genuine "baker's." the quantity of goods sold in this way is not so much of an injury to us as the discredit cast upon our manufactures by leading some consumers to believe that these fraudulent articles are of our manufacture and that we have lowered the high standard maintained for so many years. it is difficult to bring the fraud home to all consumers, as those who are making use of it seek out-of-the-way places where deception will the more easily pass. we have letters from housekeepers who have used the genuine baker goods for years, expressing their indignation at the attempts of unscrupulous dealers to foist upon them inferior and adulterated articles by fraudulently representing them to be of our manufacture. statements in the press and in the reports of the pure food commissioners show that there are on the market at this time many cocoas and chocolates which have been treated with adulterants, more or less injurious to health, for the purpose of cheapening the cost and giving a fictitious appearance of richness and strength. the safest course for consumers, therefore, is to buy goods bearing the name and trade-mark of a well-known and reputable manufacturer, and to make sure by a careful examination that they are getting what they order. our cocoa and chocolate preparations are absolutely pure--free from coloring matter, chemical solvents, or adulterants of any kind, and are therefore in full conformity to the requirements of all national and state pure food laws. we have behind us one hundred and twenty-nine years of successful manufacture, and fifty-two highest awards from the great industrial exhibitions in europe and america. we ask the cooperation of all consumers who want to get what they order and what they pay for to help us--as much in their own interest as ours--in checking these frauds. walter baker & co., ltd. our registered guarantee under national pure food laws is serial no. 90. walter baker & co.'s cocoa and chocolate preparations * * * * * baker's breakfast cocoa [illustration: walker baker & co's. breakfast cocoa fac-simile of 1/2 lb. can.] in 1-5 lb., 1-4 lb., 1-2 lb., 1 lb. and 5 lb. tins this admirable preparation is made from selected cocoa, from which the excess of oil has been removed. it is _absolutely pure_, and it is _soluble_. it has _more than three times the strength_ of cocoa mixed with starch, arrowroot or sugar, and is, therefore, far more economical, _costing less than one cent a cup_. it is delicious, nourishing, strengthening, _easily digested_, and admirably adapted for invalids as well as for persons in health. _no alkalies or other chemicals or dyes are used in its preparation._ trade-mark on every package * * * * * baker's chocolate [illustration: walter baker & co's. premium no. 1 fac-simile of 1/2 lb. package.] in 1-4 and 1-2 lb. cakes, 1 lb. packages, blue wrapper, yellow label it is the pure product of carefully selected cocoa beans, to which nothing has been added and from which nothing has been taken away. unequalled for smoothness, delicacy and natural flavor. celebrated for more than a century as a nutritious, delicious and flesh-forming beverage. the high reputation and constantly increasing sales of this article have led to imitations on a very extensive scale. to distinguish their product from these imitations walter baker & co., ltd., have enclosed their cakes and pound packages in a new envelope or case of stiff paper, different from any other package. the color of the case is the same shade of deep blue heretofore used on the baker packages, and no change has been made in the color (yellow) and design of the label. on the outside of the case, the name of the manufacturer is prominently printed in white letters. on the back of every package a colored lithograph of the trade-mark, "la belle chocolatière" sometimes called the chocolate girl, is printed. vigorous proceedings will be taken against anyone imitating the package. trade-mark on every package * * * * * baker's vanilla chocolate in 1-2 lb. and 1-6 lb. cakes and 5c and 10c packages, is guaranteed to consist solely of choice cocoa and sugar, flavored with pure vanilla beans. particular care is taken in its preparation, and a trial will convince one that it is really a delicious article for eating or drinking. it is the best sweet chocolate in the market. used at receptions and evening parties in place of tea or coffee. the small cakes form the most convenient, palatable and healthful article of food that can be carried by bicyclists, tourists and students. trade-mark on every package * * * * * caracas chocolate [illustration: walter baker & co's. caracas sweet chocolate fac-simile 1/4 lb. package.] in 1-8 and 1-4 lb. packages a delicious article. good to eat and good to drink. it is one of the finest and most popular sweet chocolates on the market, and has a constantly increasing sale in all parts of the country. if you do not find it at your grocer's, we will send a quarter-pound cake by mail, prepaid, on receipt of 10 cents in stamps or money. trade-mark on every package * * * * * century chocolate in 1-4 lb. packages a fine vanilla chocolate for eating or drinking. put up in very artistic wrappers. trade-mark on every package * * * * * auto-sweet chocolate in 1-6 lb. packages a fine eating chocolate, enclosed in an attractive wrapper with an embossed representation of an automobile in colors. trade-mark on every package * * * * * german sweet chocolate [illustration: walter baker & co's. german sweet chocolate fac-simile 1/4 lb. package.] in 1-4 lb. and 1-8 lb. packages is one of the most popular sweet chocolates sold anywhere. it is palatable, nutritious and healthful and is a great favorite with children. _beware of imitations. the genuine is stamped: "s. german, dorchester, mass."_ trade-mark (la belle chocolatière) on every package * * * * * dot chocolate in 1-2 lb. cakes; 12 lb. boxes a high grade chocolate specially prepared for home-made candies, and for sportsmen's use. if you do not find it at your grocer's write to us and we will put you in the way of getting it. in "the way of the woods--a manual for sportsmen" edward breck, the author, says: "chocolate is now regarded as a very high-class food on account of its nutritive qualities. * * * * * a half cake will keep a man's strength up for a day without any other food. i never strike off from camp by myself without a piece of chocolate in my pocket. do not, however, have anything to do with the mawkishly sweet chocolates of the candy shops or the imported milk chocolate, which are not suited for the purpose. we have something better here in america in walter baker & co.'s "dot" brand, which is slightly sweetened." * * * * * cracked cocoa or cocoa nibs in 1-2 lb. and 1 lb. packages, and in 6 lb. and 10 lb. bags this is the freshly roasted bean cracked into small pieces. it contains no admixture, and presents the full flavor of the cocoa-bean in all its natural fragrance and purity. when properly prepared, it is one of the most economical drinks. dr. lankester says cocoa contains as much flesh-forming matter as beef. trade-mark on every package * * * * * soluble cocoa this is a preparation for the special use of druggists and others in making hot or cold soda. it forms the basis for a delicious, refreshing, nourishing and strengthening drink. it is perfectly soluble. it is absolutely pure. it is easily made. it possesses the full strength and natural flavor of the cocoa-bean. no chemicals are used in its preparation. _the directions for making one gallon of syrup are as follows:_ 8 ounces of soluble cocoa, 8-1/2 pounds of white sugar, 2-1/2 quarts of water. thoroughly dissolve the cocoa in hot water, then add the sugar, and heat until the mixture boils. strain while hot. after it has become cool, sugar may be added if desired. the trade is supplied with 1, 4 or 10 lb. decorated canisters. trade-mark on every package * * * * * chocolate for confectioners' use _liquid chocolates_--plain, sweet, light, medium and dark. _soluble cocoa_--for hot or cold soda. _absolutely pure--free from coloring matter, chemical solvents, or adulterants of any kind, and therefore in full conformity to the requirements of all national and state pure food laws._ * * * * * vanilla tablets these are small pieces of chocolate, made from the finest beans, and done up in fancy foil. the packages are tied with colored ribbons, and are very attractive in form and delicious in substance. they are much used for desserts and collations, and at picnics and entertainments for young people. they are strongly recommended by physicians as a healthy and nutritious confection for children. trade-mark on every package * * * * * cocoa-butter in 1-2 lb. and 1-5 lb. cakes, and in metal boxes for toilet uses one-half the weight of the cocoa-bean consists of a fat called "cocoa-butter," from its resemblance to ordinary butter. it is considered of great value as a nutritious, strengthening tonic, being preferred to cod-liver oil and other nauseous fats so often used in pulmonary complaints. as a soothing application to chapped hands and lips, and all irritated surfaces, cocoa-butter has no equal, making the skin remarkably soft and smooth. many who have used it say they would not for any consideration be without it. it is almost a necessary article for every household. trade-mark on every package * * * * * cocoa-shells in 1 lb. and 1-2 lb. packages cocoa-shells are the thin outer covering of the beans. they have a flavor similar to but milder than cocoa. their very low price places them within the reach of all; and as furnishing a pleasant and healthy drink, they are considered superior to tea and coffee. packed _only_ in 1 lb. and 1/2 lb. papers, with our label and name on them. trade-mark on every package * * * * * cacao des aztèques in boxes, 6 lbs. each; 1-2 lb. bottles a compound formerly known as _racabout des arabes_; a most nutritious preparation; indispensable as an article of diet for children, convalescents, ladies, and delicate or aged persons. it is composed of the best nutritive and restoring substances, suitable for the most delicate system. it is now a _favorite breakfast beverage for ladies and young persons_, to whom it gives freshness and _embonpoint_. it has solved the problem of medicine by imparting something which is easily digestible and at the same time _free from the exciting qualities_ of coffee and tea, thus making it especially desirable for nervous persons or those afflicted with weak stomachs. it has a very agreeable flavor, is easily prepared, and has received the _commendation of eminent physicians_ as being the best article known for convalescents and all persons desiring a _light, digestible, nourishing and strengthening food_. [illustration] index to recipes miss parloa's: plain chocolate (for drinking) chocolate, vienna style breakfast cocoa chocolate layer cake " cake " marble cake " glacé cake " glacé " biscuit " wafers cinderella cakes chocolate éclairs " cookies " gingerbread vanilla icing chocolate icing " profiteroles " ice-cream " cream pies " mousse " charlotte " bavarian cream " cream " blanc-mange " cream renversee baked chocolate custard chocolate soufflé " pudding " meringue pudding milton pudding snow pudding chocolate sauce " candy cream chocolate caramels sugar " " chocolate creams, no. 1 " " no. 2 " cones genesee bonbons chocolate syrup refreshing drinks for summer * * * * * miss burr's: cracked cocoa for three gallons breakfast cocoa vanilla chocolate with whipped cream chocolate cream pie " filling meringue cocoa sticks " frosting " sauce " cake " meringue pudding chocolate almonds " coatings hot chocolate sauce cocoa sponge cake chocolate frosting " cake; or, devil's food " ice-cream " whip cocoa marble cake chocolate marble cake " jelly cottage pudding vanilla sauce cocoanut soufflé chocolate sauce cocoa biscuit " fudge * * * * * miss robinson's: plain chocolate 1 quart cocoa sponge cake " marble " " doughnuts " buns * * * * * mrs. rorer's: chocolate cake * * * * * mrs. lincoln's: chocolate caramels * * * * * miss farmer's: chocolate nougat cake " cream candy * * * * * mrs. armstrong's: chocolate pudding " charlotte chocolate jelly with crystallized green gages * * * * * mrs. bedford's: chocolate crullers hot cocoa sauce for ice-cream chocolate macaroons * * * * * mrs. ewing's: creamy cocoa " chocolate * * * * * mrs. hill's: cocoa frappé chocolate puffs * * * * * mrs. salzbacher's: chocolate hearts * * * * * cocoa charlotte chocolate fudge with fruit " macaroons * * * * * petits four potato cake spanish chocolate cake * * * * * mrs. hill's candy recipes: peppermints, chocolate mints, etc. chocolate caramel walnuts "dot" chocolate coatings chocolate dipped peppermints ginger, cherry, apricot and nut chocolates chocolate peanut clusters " coated almonds " dipped parisian sweets stuffed dates, chocolate dipped chocolate oysterettes turkish paste with french fruit chocolate pecan pralines vassar fudge smith college fudge wellesley marshmallow fudge double fudge marbled fudge fudge hearts or rounds marshmallow fudge chocolate dipped fruit fudge chocolate cocoanut cakes baker's chocolate "divinity" chocolate nougatines plain chocolate caramels chocolate nut caramels ribbon caramels fondant almond chocolate creams cherry chocolate creams chocolate peppermints fig and nut chocolates chocolate marshmallows maple fondant acorns chocolate almond bars almond fondant sticks almond fondant balls walnut cream chocolates to mold candy for dipping chocolate butter creams fondant for soft chocolate creams rose chocolate creams pistachio chocolate creams surprise chocolate creams chocolate peanut brittle chocolate pop corn balls chocolate molasses kisses * * * * * [illustration] no other food product has a like record. [illustration] walter baker & co. ltd. established 1780. 52 highest awards. the candy maker's guide a collection of choice recipes for sugar boiling compiled and published by the fletcher mnf'g. co. manufacturers of confectioners' and candy makers' tools and machines tea and coffee urns bakers' confectioners and hotel supplies importers and dealers in pure fruit juices, flavoring extracts, fruit oils, essential oils, malt extract, xxxx glucose, etc. [illustration] prize medal and diploma awarded at toronto industrial exhibition 1894, for general excellence in style and finish of our goods. 440-442 yonge st.,--toronto, can. toronto j johnston printer & stationer 105 church st 1896 fletcher mnf'g. co. toronto. manufacturers and dealers in generators, steel and copper soda water cylinders, soda founts, tumbler washers, freezers, ice breaking machines, ice cream refrigerators, milk shakers, ice shaves, lemon squeezers, ice cream cans, packing tubs, flavoring extracts, golden and crystal flake for making ice cream, ice cream bricks and forms, and every article necessary for soda water and ice cream business. introduction. in presenting this selection of choice recipes for candy makers we have endeavored to avoid everything that is not practical and easy to understand. the recipes given are from the most experienced and notable candy makers of america and europe, and are such, that, if followed out with care and attention will be sure to lead to success. practice is only to be had by experiment, and little failures are overcome by constant perseverance. after the rudiments have been thoroughly mastered, the reader has ample scope to distinguish himself in the candy world, and will do so with patience and perseverance. we trust our patrons will look upon this work, not as a literary effort, but as instruction from a practical workman to a would-be workman. fletcher mnf'g. co., 440 & 442 yonge st., toronto, publishers. manufacturers of candy makers tools and machines, and every article required in confectionery and candy making. ask for our catalogue. sugar boiling. this branch of the trade or business of a confectioner is perhaps the most important. all manufacturers are more or less interested in it, and certainly no retail shop could be considered orthodox which did not display a tempting variety of this class. so inclusive is the term "boiled goods" that it embraces drops, rocks, candies, taffies, creams, caramels, and a number of different sorts of hand-made, machine-made, and moulded goods. it is the most ancient method of which we have any knowledge, and perhaps the most popular process of modern times; the evidence of our everyday experience convinces us that (notwithstanding the boom which heralds from time to time a new sweet, cooked in a different manner, composed of ingredients hitherto unused in business), it is the exception when such goods hold the front rank for more than a few months, however pretty, tasty, or tempting they may be, the public palate seems to fall back on those made in the old lines which, though capable of improvement, seem not to be superceded. of the entire make of confectionery in canada, at least two-thirds of it may be written down under the name of boiled sugar. they are undoubtedly the chief features with both manufacturers and retailers, embracing, as they do, endless facilities for fertile brains and deft fingers for inventing novelties in design, manipulation, combination, and finish. notwithstanding the already great variety, there is always daily something new in this department brought into market. many of the most successful houses owe their popularity more to their heads than their hands, hence the importance of studying this branch in all its ramifications. the endless assortment requiring different methods for preparing and manipulating make it necessary to sub-divide this branch into sections, order and arrangement being so necessary to be thoroughly understood. _when we consider the few inexpensive tools required to make so many kinds of saleable goods, it is not to be wondered at so many retailers have a fancy to make their own toffees and such like, there is no reason why a man or woman, with ordinary patience, a willing and energetic disposition, favored with a fair amount of intelligence, should not be able to become with the aid of this book and a few dollars for tools, fairly good sugar boilers, with a few months practice._ there are reasons why a retail confectioner should study sugar boiling. it gives character to the business, a fascinating odour to the premises, and a general at-homeness to the surroundings. no goods look more attractive and tempting to the sweet eating public than fresh made goods of this kind. a bright window can be only so kept by makers. grainy or sticky drops may be reboiled; scraps and what would otherwise be almost waste (at least unsightly) may be redressed in another shape, and become, not only saleable, but profitable. _there are many advantages which a maker possesses over one who buys all._ for instance, clear boiled goods should be kept air tight, and are therefore delivered to the retailers in bottles, jars, or tins, on which charge is made, these have to be repacked and returned. breakages are an important item, so is freight--the cost of the latter is saved and the former reduced to a minimum. whatever means are adopted to benefit the retailer and advertise the business by brighter windows, cleaner shops, less faded goods, and healthier financial conditions must contribute to the general prosperity of the trade, from the bottom step to the top rung of the ladder. it should be the aim of all amateurs to study quality rather than price. goods well made, carefully flavored, and nicely displayed will always command a ready sale at a fair price, giving satisfaction to the consumer and credit to the maker. give your customers something to please the eye as well as the palate, so that every sale may be looked upon as an advertisement. cheap, bulky, insipid stuff is unprofitable and damaging to the trade as well as to the seller. i venture to assert that more would-be makers have come to grief trying to cut each other in price for rubbishy candies than through any other cause. look at the number of firms who have a reputation, whose very name command trade at good prices, year after year add to the turnover. what is the talisman? look at their goods. there is perhaps nothing very striking in them, but they are _invariably good_, busy or slack they are made with care, packed with taste, and delivered neatly in a business-like fashion. compare this to our makers of cheap stuff; to obtain orders they sell at unprofitable prices, often at a loss, and try to make up the difference by resorting to various methods of increasing the bulk, the result is ultimate ruin to themselves, loss to their creditors, and injury to every one concerned. few who read these lines will not be able to verify all that is stated. the writer's advice has always been to keep up a _high degree of excellence, try to improve in every direction, and success is only a matter of patience, energy and civility_. it is not intended to give a complete list of all kinds of candy known in the trade, that would be absurd and impossible. to be able to make any particular kind will require knowledge only to be gained by experience, so that much depends on the thoughtful endeavor of the beginner. the workshop. sugar boiling, like every other craft, requires a place to do it, fitted with tools and appliances. the requisites and requirements can be easily suited to the purse of the would-be confectioner. a work to be useful to all must cater for all, and include information which will be useful to the smaller storekeeper as well as the larger maker. to begin at the bottom, one can easily imagine a person whose only ambition is to make a little candy for the window fit for children. this could be done with a very small outlay for utensils. the next move is the purchase of a sugar boiler's furnace not very costly and certainly indispensable where quality and variety are required, it will be a great saving of time as well as money, the sugar will boil a much better color, so that cheaper sugar may be used for brown or yellow goods, while one can make acid drops and other white goods from granulated. dutch crush, or loaf sugar, which would be impossible to make on a kitchen stove from any sort of sugar. [illustration: fig. 2. steel candy furnace. no. 1--24 in. high, 19 in. diameter. price, $7.50. no. 2--30 in. high, 23 in. diameter. price, $12.00.] [illustration: fig. 206 a. excelsior furnace. height 26 in., 4 holes, from 9 to 18 in. diameter. made entirely of cast iron. price, $16. weight 225 lbs.] [illustration: fig. 12. caramel cutters--2 styles. each with steel shaft and screw handles and two sets blocks. no. 2--with 13 steel cutters, price $6.50 we make this cutter with longer rod and any number of extra cutters at 50c. each cutter. no. 1--with 13 tinned cutters, price $11.00 with longer rods and any number of extra cutters at 30c. each cutter.] [illustration: fig. 3. copper candy boiling pan. 15 × 6 $4.50, 16 × 7 $5.50, 17 × 8 $6.00, 18 × 9 $7.00, 19 × 10 $8, 20 × 10-1/2 $9. ] [illustration: fig. 16. price 76c. improved slide candy hook.] [illustration: fig. 6. steam jacket--made to order.] list of sugar boiling tools required for a start. 1 candy furnace price, $7 50 1 copper boiling pan 15×6 " 4 50 1 candy thermometer " 1 75 1 marble slab 48×24×2 " 8 00 1 caramel cutter " 6 50 1 candy hook " 75 1 pallette knife " 50 1 doz. taffy pans " 2 00 1 pair english candy shears " 1 50 ----- total $33 00 more slab room will be required as trade increases. we cannot go any further into the mysteries of this art successfully unless we provide ourselves with a candy machine and rolls to enable us to make drops. _they are indispensable_, and if we are to go on, we must have them to enable us to make drops, and every confectioner sells drops. these machines are made to suit all classes of trade, big and little. the small ones make just as nice drops as the large ones, and will turn out in the course of a day 2 or 3 cwt., by constant use, so that for retail purposes this quantity would generally be sufficient. [illustration: fig. 12-1/2. candy machine and rollers for boiled sugar. for fruit drops, acid or cough drops imperials, etc. these machines are made to fit a standard gauge, and will admit of any number of rollers being fitted to one frame. thus parties having our frames can at any time order additional rollers which will work satisfactorily. the rollers are 2 in. diameter, 3-5/8 in. long. almost every conceivable pattern can be cut on them. candy roll frames, $ 6 00 each. plain drop rolls, 14 00 per pair. fancy drop rolls, from 16 00 " ] having so far got our workshop arranged the next thing is to keep it in order. sugar boiling is dirty sticky business, especially on wet days, unless every part is kept scrupulously clean and dry, slabs and tables should be washed, no trace of sifting, scraps, or boiled goods, should be left exposed to the atmosphere during the night, the floor well swept, and a little clean sawdust put down every night. the comfort and ease in working in a clean place far more than offsets the trouble and time it takes to put it in order, besides the goods are much drier, brighter and easier to bottle or pack. nothing is more unpleasant than to work with sticky slabs, slimy machines or dirty scales. the boil adheres to the slabs, sticks to the rollers, spoiling the shapes, and become cloudy and spotty in weighing. we are not writing without knowledge. any one who has worked or visited small workshops can endorse the value of these remarks, and call to mind this imaginary picture. however, there are exceptions, still the hint will be useful in a good many cases. [illustration: fig. 5. steel candy shears. english candy shears, $1.50.] [illustration: fig. 201 a. price, $1.75 copper cased candy thermometer.] method of sugar boiling. if the learner will study the following instructions, the author guarantees to place him in a position to boil sugar as correctly as the most experienced workman. to accomplish this, the reader should provide himself with the sugar boiler's tools named on the preceding page. while the sugar is undergoing the process of boiling, it is almost impossible for a learner to determine the exact degree which the sugar has attained without a thermometer, and even the journeyman finds it so useful that you will find very few indeed who boil sugar without it; in fact many of the larger shops will not allow a sugar boiler to work without one. for almost any purpose the following degrees will be found all that is necessary. for instance put into the pan in which you intend to boil, 7 lbs. granulated sugar together with one quart of water, placing it on the fire and allow it to boil. put a cover over the pan and allow it to boil for ten minutes; then take off the cover and put the thermometer in the pan, immersing the bottom part of it in the boiling sugar, and let it remain there until the sugar is boiled to the degree you require. the following five degrees are those used by confectioners for different purposes: [illustration: fig. 87. iron bell shaped mortar. english make, extra heavy, tinned inside. 1 pint $1 00 1-1/2 " 1 50 1 quart 2 00 2 " 3 00 ] 1st. the smooth, viz.,--215 to 220 by the thermometer. when the mercury registers these figures the sugars may then be used for crystalizing creams, gum goods and liqueurs. 2nd. the thread, viz., 230 and 235 is the degree which is used for making liqueurs. 3rd. the feather, viz., 240 to 245. only a few minutes elapse between these degrees, and the sugar must be watched closely during the boiling at this point. this degree may be used for making fondants, rich creams, cream for chocolates and fruit candying. 4th. the ball, viz., 250 to 255. the sugar at this point is used for making cocoanut and other candies, cocoanut ice, and almost every description of grain sugar generally. 5th. the crack, viz., 310 to 315. this is the degree which is used, with little variation, for all kinds of drops, taffies, and all clear goods, whether for the purpose of passing through machines or manipulating with the hands. these degrees can be tested by an experienced hand without the aid of the thermometer, and the learner may accustom himself by trying them in the following manner: take the stem of a clay pipe and dip it into the sugar as it boils, draw it out again and pass it through the forefinger and thumb; when it feels oily you will find by looking at your thermometer that it has reached the degree of smooth, 215 to 220 by the glass. the next degree or thread, may be tried by your taking a little of the sugar off the pipe between your finger and thumb and part them gently; if you see small threads hang between your finger and thumb that degree has arrived. for the degree of ball, 250 to 255, you must have by your hand a small jug of cold water; when you draw the pipe out of the sugar dip it in the water, and when taken out of the water, if you can work it like a piece of putty, you have got the degree of ball. the degree of crack must be tested the same way, and the sugar must leave the pipe clean; dip it again into cold water; when off the pipe break off a piece with your teeth; if it snaps clean in your teeth, pour your sugar on the slab at once. note.--this last degree must be tried sharply, in giving the process for trying it without the thermometer. we caution all beginners to get a thermometer, as practice alone can instruct you without. it is also necessary to state that thermometers differ a little, and should be tested. during hot weather, it is necessary to bring the sugars up to the full degree; during winter months, the lower degrees marked will answer the purpose. cutting the grain, lowering or greasing. almost all sugar, especially refined, whether loaf, crystalized or granulated, and most sugars known to the trade as pieces will, if boiled beyond the degree of ball, or 250 by the thermometer, when turned out of the pan becomes cloudy, then grainy, and ultimately a solid lump of hard opaque sugar. to prevent this candying, as it is called several agents are used, such as glucose, cream of tartar pyroligneous acid, vinegar &c., the action of which will cause the sugar to boil clear, be pliable while hot and transparent when cold. it is therefore necessary to use some lowering agent for all boilings intended for clear goods, such as drops, taffies, rocks &c. [illustration: fig. 29. pyramid forms. no. 1, 22-1/2 inch, 2 rings price, 90c. no. 2, 32 inch, 3 rings price, $1 10. ] [illustration: fig. 21. candy scraper and spreader. 12 inches long 65c 6 " " 30c ] experience has taught most of the old hands that two of these agents possess all the merits necessary for the purpose, and are to be preferred to others for reasons it is unnecessary to state--they are cream of tartar and glucose. a great deal could be said in favor of either or both; cream of tartar is handier and cleaner to use as well as more exact in its action; goods boiled with it will be a better color and, some assert, more crisp; for acids and all best and export goods it is to be recommended--use a proportion of half an ounce to every 14 lbs. of sugar--we say about, as some strong sugars require a little more, this is generally measured in a teaspoon, two spoonfuls to every 14 lbs. of sugar. _glucose_, being cheaper than sugar, is valuable to the confectioner, not only for its lowering qualities, but also as a bulk producer, _reducing the cost of the product_. on this account there is a tendency to overdo it by using too much, the result causing goods to become sticky and turn soft immediately they are exposed to the atmosphere, not only so, but we have seen drops running to a solid lump in bottles through being overdosed. if glucose is used in proper proportions, it makes an excellent lowering agent, and will answer the purpose first rate for ordinary drops and the like. use three lbs. of glucose to every 14 lbs. of sugar; keep a panful on the furnace top, so that it will always be hot and may be easily measured by means of a saucepan or ladle holding the exact quantity; add the glucose when sugar begins to boil. flavors and colors. these form almost as important a part of the trade as the sugar itself, and it should be the chief object of every workman to try and excel in these two important features; if you do not use _good flavors_, it is a moral certainty you cannot produce _good candies_. flavors for boiled sugars should be specially prepared, those bought at an ordinary _chemist shop may do very well for flavoring custards and pastry, but are of no use for boiled sugars, in fact better use no essence at all, as they_ are so weak that, to give the drops &c., even a slight taste the quantity required reduces the degree to which the sugar has been boiled so much that it works like putty, and sticks to the machine while being pressed through; the drops when finished look dull, dragged and stick together when bottled; tons of drops are weekly spoiled by small makers using such flavors, while a little trouble and less expense would put them out of their misery, besides giving to the goods that clear bright dry appearance to be found in the drops of a respectable house. it must be remembered that the flavor is the very life of the candy. color may please the eye, but excellence in that alone is not all that is required. a buyer may be attracted by the eye, but he does not eat with it. neither old or young would knowingly eat only colored sugar. a sweet taste may be satisfied with sugar alone. it is the variety of pleasant flavors that is desired and it is the business of the confectioner to supply it. flavors for sugar boiling should be as concentrated as it is possible for it to be. several large houses who have confined their attention to the wants and requirements of the confectionery and mineral water trades have succeeded in producing fruit essences of quality, which is a pleasure to work with. being very powerful, little is required to give the boil rich flavor, consequently it passes through the machine easily, forming a perfect drop on which the clear imprint of the engraving characteristic of the machine used. essential oils used by confectioners are those having an agreeable aromatic flavor, and should be used in their original strength, without being adulterated or reduced. it is absolutely necessary that they should be pure and fresh, more particularly the oils of lemon and orange, as when not fresh and pure they partake of the flavor of turpentine, and are particularly unpleasant to the taste. small makers would do well to buy carefully from a good house not more than would be used up in two or three months, especially the two before mentioned. some oils on the contrary, improve by keeping such as peppermint and lavender. all essences and oils are best kept well corked in a cool dark place. these oils being powerful, popular and expensive, they are frequently adulterated. cream of tartar and tartaric acid on account of the price is often increased, the former with different cheap powders, the latter usually with alum. many people fail in the process through no fault of their own, but simply through their being supplied with inferior ingredients, it is therefore of importance, that colors and flavors should be purchased at some respectable house; get list of oils' extracts and essences from fletcher mnf'g. co. who are large dealers in these goods. the colors prepared, consisting of several very nice shades of yellow and red, also coffee brown, jetoline black, damson blue, and apple green; they are in paste, ready for use, being vegetable, they are guaranteed strictly wholesome, and may be used with confidence. wrinkles worth reading on sugar boiling. to make an acid drop to perfection, the pan must not only be clean but bright; use best white sugar, and just enough water to melt it, with a little extra cream of tartar (no glucose); boil on a sharp fire to 305; after passing through machine, well dust with icing sugar and bottle. beginners should not try to work with less water, as the boil is more liable to grain, which can be seen by an expert and avoided. before putting on the boil see that there is sufficient fuel on the furnace to carry through the operation. to make up a fire during the process spoils the color and quality. the sharper the sugar is boiled the better the appearance and durability. when boiling common sugars have the pan large enough,--some throw up a good deal of foam when they reach the boiling point and are liable to flow over--watch closely, and if unable to beat the foam down, lift the pan on the side of the fire a few minutes until boiled through. many weak sugars burn on a clear fire before they come to a degree of crack. in this case sprinkle a little fresh fuel or ashes over the fire and replace the pan again. should it again catch, repeat the operation nursing it up to the desired degree. bad boiling sugar is very troublesome. a good plan is to make a rule of straining the batch just after it boils, through a very fine copper wire or hair sieve, this prevents foreign matter such as grit, saw dust or even nails, which is often mixed with the sugar getting into the goods. keep thermometer when not in use in jar of water standing on the furnace plate by the side of the pan, wash out the jar and fill with cold water every morning; keep the thermometer clean, especially the top part, as the sugar which adheres to it becomes grainy, and might spoil a whole boil. after making many dark candies thoroughly wash the thermometer before putting into a light boil. in using colors for drops and clear goods, use them in the form of a paste where practicable, then you can mix them in when the boil is on the slab, thus saving your pan; keep the colors damp in jars, look over them every night, and, where necessary, add a little cold water to keep them moist, or the top may get dry and hard, which would make the goods specky. use a separate piece of stick for each color to rub in with, and be careful not to use too much color; a very little goes a long way with clear boiled goods. goods are more often spoiled by using too much than too little; more can always be added if the shades are too light, but there is no remedy if you have added too much. when coloring taffies, this must be done in the pan; liquid colors are best; trouble will be saved if used in the following order. suppose raspberry, everton and lemon taffies were wanted, make the lemon taffy first, add saffron just before the boil is ready, then the lemon, and pour out; make the everton taffy next in the same way, add the butter before the lemon; then make the raspberry. in this arrangement there is no necessity of steaming out the pan. had the raspberry taffy been made first, the pan would have to be cleaned out before the lemon or everton taffy could have been made, because it would have been red. measure the flavors in a graduated glass; wash out the glass frequently, or it will get rancid; weigh the acid and see that it is well ground; if it has become dry and lumpy, rub it down to a powder with a rolling pin or heavy bottle on a sheet of paper before using. in using fruit essences a little powdered tartaric acid throws up the flavor, half the essences will have a better effect. put the acid on the boil after it has been poured on the slab in a little heap, and pour the essence over it, then thoroughly incorporate the whole. use the best oil for the slab with a clean flannel cloth; keep the cloth in a saucer, if it lies about it falls on the floor and picks up dirt and carries it to the pouring plate. when it gets hard or gritty burn it at once and get a new one, or it may be used by mistake and make a mess. we have seen the beauty of a boil spoilt scores of times by using dirty rags and rancid oil. a sugar boiler cannot be too careful in these little details, the success of his work largely depends upon it. it is easy to inaugurate a good system, and much more comfortable to work to it than a slovenly "what shall i do next" sort of a method. know where to find and put your hand on everything; when the boil is hot there is no time to look for what you require. "a place for everything and everything in its place" should be a practical feature in every boiling shop. sticky candies. perhaps there is nothing more annoying to the trade than sticky boiled sugars. all clear goods when exposed to the atmosphere will turn damp, especially in wet weather. it is a question of degree, some slightly and some will run almost to syrup; it is impossible to obviate the former but the latter can be prevented. great care should be used in adding the lowering, whether cream of tartar or glucose, too much of either will cause the goods to run immediately after they are turned out. weak or inferior sugars, or not sufficient boiling, has also this effect. we know of no reliable agent which will altogether prevent this result but we do know that a careful arrangement of the different proportions, using good sugar and well boiling greatly mitigate, if not altogether prevent the grievance. goods intended for exposure should contain just sufficient lowering to prevent the boil from growing grainy and boiled right up to the standard. of course different sugars will carry more or less lowering, but this can be easily tested by the workman. a few experiments will determine the exact quantity for each boil. there is no excuse for drops sticking in bottles when corked, this should not occur, if it does, the fault is in the making; the water has a great deal to do with causing the candies to be sticky. the writer has experienced this in several country places, where the only supply of this indispensable ingredient was drawn from the artesian wells. to look at it, it was all that could be desired--a beautiful, cold, clear and wholesome beverage. of its chemical constituents i do not pretend to give an opinion, but the drops and other clear boils for which it was used got damp directly after they were exposed, and would have run to a syrup had they not been covered up. the goods keep all right in bottles, but it is very annoying, not to speak of the injury and loss to a business, when this is the position with regard to the water supply. the only remedy we could suggest, and which was very successful, was powdered borax. we used this in the proportion of a teaspoonful to every 14 lbs. of sugar adding it just as the sugar began to boil. borax has been found useful with any water when making goods to be exposed in the window or on the counters, such as taffies, rocks and clear boiled sugars generally. where the supply of water, as in most large towns is suitable, given good sugar, cream of tartar or glucose, in proper proportions, and careful boiling up to the standard, the addition of borax is unnecessary and should only be resorted to under special circumstances. plain taffy. 14 lbs. white sugar. 2 quarts water. 1/2 ounce cream tartar. process.--this is an easy and capital recipe to begin with. the process is practically the same as for all other clear goods, but the ingredients being fewer there is little chance of their getting complicated. with a thermometer it is hardly possible to make a mistake, besides it will make the instruction more intelligible: should he not possess this appliance, we must ask that the instructions "how to boil sugar" should be committed to memory, as it would be tedious and a great waste of time and space to keep explaining how to tell the different degrees through which the sugar passes before it comes to the point required for the different goods given in this book. for this and other reasons i will assume the learner to be working with one. put the sugar and water in a clean pan, place it on the fire and stir it occasionally till melted; when it comes to the boil add the cream of tartar and put a lid on the pan; allow it to boil in this way for ten minutes, remove the lid and immerse the bottom part of the thermometer in the boiling liquid and allow it to remain in this position until it records 310 degrees, then quickly take out the thermometer, lift off the pan and pour contents into frames, tins, or on a pouring slab, which have been previously oiled. if on a pouring slab, mark the boil into bars or squares, while warm, with a knife or taffy cutter: when quite cold it is ready for sale. lemon taffy. 14 lbs. white sugar. 1/2 ounce cream tartar. saffron coloring. 2 quarts water. lemon flavoring. process.--proceed as directed for plain taffy. when the sugar reaches 305 degrees, add a few drops of saffron color; when it reaches 310 degrees, add a few drops of oil of lemon and pour out immediately into frames or tins; or if on pouring slab, mark out into bars or squares before it gets cold. the pouring slab should be level so that the sheet should be all the same thickness. butter scotch. 8 lbs. white sugar. 1 lb. fresh butter. lemon flavoring. 1/4 oz. cream of tartar. 1 quart water. process.--melt the sugar in the water by an occasional stir when the pan is on the fire, then add the cream of tartar and boil up to 300, lift the pan on to the side of the furnace and add butter in small pieces broken off by the hand; slip the pan on the fire again, adding the lemon flavoring; let it boil through so that all the butter is boiled in then pour into frames; when partly cold mark with cutter into small squares; when cold divide the squares; wrap each in wax-paper; sold generally in one cent packages. n.b.--there is good butter scotch and better butter scotch, but no bad butter scotch; this quality may be improved by the addition of a large proportion of butter: some makers would put 2 lbs. or even 3 lbs. to this quantity, but that would be regulated by the class of trade and the size squares. these frames are made to hold 144 squares; a boil this size will make each square weigh about 1 oz., but any weight of square may be arranged by the adding or deducting from the boil. everton taffy. 12 lbs. white sugar. 2 lbs. dark sugar. 2 lbs. fresh butter. 1/2 oz. cream of tartar. 2 quarts water. lemon flavoring. process.--melt the sugar in the water, add the cream of tartar and boil the whole to the degree of 300; lift the pan on the side of the fire put in the butter in small pieces, place the pan again on the fire and let it boil through; add the lemon and give it time to mix in, then pour out contents into frame, or on pouring plate to cut up into bars. everton taffy and butter scotch are similar, except in color; same remarks as to quality will apply in both cases; if the fire is very fierce, do not put the pan down flat on it after adding butter; nurse it gently to prevent burning; little fresh coke shaken over the fire would assist. raspberry taffy. 14 lbs. white sugar. 1/2 oz. cream of tartar. raspberry flavor. 2 quarts water. brilliant rose. process.--bring the sugar and water to a boil, add the cream of tartar, put on the lid for ten minutes, then uncover and immerse the thermometer; continue to boil to 300; tinge a bright red with liquid, brilliant rose; add raspberry essence; pour out on frame or pouring plate and mark into bars or squares of convenient size; when cold the taffy is ready for packing and sale. fig taffy. 10 lbs good yellow sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. 3 lbs figs chopped fine. 3 pints water. process.--boil the sugar, water and glucose to a weak crack, 295; lift the pan partly off the fire, putting a piece of iron under it to prevent it burning; add the figs, gently letting the whole thoroughly boil through and mix; pour in oiled tins or on slab, and mark into squares. when adding the figs let them drop through the fingers, not in a heap. walnut taffy. 5 lbs. brown sugar. 5 lbs. crystal sugar. 2-1/2 lbs. glucose. 3 lbs. walnuts. 2 quarts water. lemon flavoring. process.--shell the walnuts, peel off the skin chop very fine. boil the glucose, sugar and water as before directed to the degree of weak crack, 300. lift the pan a little from the fire; add the prepared nuts by letting them run through the finger gently; let the whole boil through, then add a few drops of the oil of lemon; when thoroughly mixed in, pour out the boil and mark into bars before too cold. the flavor is improved by roasting the walnuts a little before putting in the boil. peanut candy. boil to the crack, 1 quart best new orleans molasses, 1 lb. glucose and 1 quart water. prepare the meats by removing the thin reddish skin in which they are enveloped and fill a tray to about the depth of an inch. pour over them the hot candy prepared as directed, stirring the meats till each one is covered. a little less candy should be used than will suffice to entirely cover the meats, though each separate one should be covered, the object being to use just enough of the candy to cause the meats to adhere firmly together, thus forming a large cake, which when nearly cold may be divided into squares or bars with a sharp knife. almonds and other nuts may be used in the same manner above described. barcelona taffy. 5 lbs. brown sugar. 5 lbs. crystal sugar. 3 lbs. barcelona nuts. 2 lbs. glucose. 2 quarts water. lemon flavoring. prepare the nuts by chopping them fine, boil the sugar, glucose and water to the degree 300. remove the pan a little from the fire add the nuts carefully; when thoroughly boiled through and amalgamated, add a few drops of lemon and pour out contents into frame or on pouring plate and mark into bars. cocoanut taffy. 6 lbs. granulated sugar. 2 lbs. desiccated cocoanut unsweetened. 4 lbs. brown sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. 3 pints water. lemon flavoring. process.--melt the sugars in the water, bring it to the boil, add the glucose and continue to boil to the degree 300; lift the pan a little way from the fire; let the desiccated cocoanut run gently in the boil; continue to boil until the lot is well mixed through; add a few drops of oil of lemon and pour out in frames; use the lemon cautiously, too much spoils the flavor. [illustration: fig. 14. cocoanut slicer and shredder. improved steel grater. pat. aug. 30, 1887. no. 2 we claim to be the best hand made machine in the market. it is easily adjusted for cutting, slicing or grating, the several plates requiring but a moment to adjust to the shaft. it is the only machine having an outside adjustment. no. 2 machine, slicer and shredder $20 00 grater for same 3 00 ] cocoanut taffy or stick jaw. 6 lbs. granulated sugar. 4 lbs. brown sugar. 3 pints water. 2 lbs. glucose. 4 large cocoanuts sliced. process.--boil to crack 310 by the thermometer, the sugar, glucose and water; have the cocoanut freshly peeled and sliced ready; raise the pan two or three inches from the fire; slide in the nut, stirring gently with spatula to keep them off the bottom till well boiled through, then pour out in tins or frames. n.b.--stir gently only the one way or you may grain the boil. [illustration: fig. 13. citron and orange peel slicing machine. this is a useful machine for slicing peel in thin and regular pieces for the tops of maderia cakes, etc. it is also made double-action i.e.--with both slicing and shredding knives, the latter being used to shred or grate cocoanut, etc., very fine. price, $13 00] [illustration: fig. 202 a. price $1 00. new almond grater. one of the best almond graters in the market.] eggs and bacon. 10 lbs. white sugar. 2-1/2 lbs. glucose. 3 pints water. 1 lb. nonpareils. 1 cocoanut. brilliant rose coloring. process.--cut a large cocoanut into slices, dry them and lay them on the pouring plate in rows about half an inch apart; sprinkle between them thickly some nonpareil of various colors (hundreds and thousands). boil to crack the sugar, glucose and water; tinge with brilliant rose, and carefully and evenly pour the contents over the pouring plate, disturbing the nut and nonpareil as little as possible. a good plan is to have a small shallow ladle with an open spout, into which pour a little of the boil, run over the plate a small stream from the ladle first, this will bind the nut, etc., and keep them in their places while the bulk is being poured out. almond hardbake. 10 lbs. good brown sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. lemon flavoring if desired. 3 lbs. almonds. 3 pints water. process.--split with a sharp knife the almonds, lay them face downwards on an oiled plate, cover the plate as closely as possible; boil the glucose, sugar and water to the crack 305; remove the pan from the fire, and pour the contents carefully and evenly over the almonds; the addition of a little lemon or almond flavoring will improve it. n.b.--see remarks re-ladle in previous recipe. almond rock. 10 lbs. brown sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. 6 lbs. sweet almonds. 3 pints water. process.--clean your almonds by blowing out all the dust and grit, pick out the shells, dissolve the sugar water and glucose; boil the lot up to crack; pour the contents on oiled plate. sprinkle the almond all over the boil, shake over the lot a few drops of oil of lemon; turn up the edges first, then the whole boil; mix and knead it like dough until all the almonds are well mixed in; no time must be lost in this process or the sugar will get too hard; when firm make a long roll of the entire boil, place it on a hard wood board, and cut it up into thin slices; it will have to be kept in shape while cutting, by turning over and pressing the sides as it becomes flat; a special large sharp knife is used for this purpose. a smaller boil than the above had better be tried by beginners, say half the quantity. this can be done by halving the ingredients. needless to state these remarks apply to other recipes. french almond rock. 12 lbs. white sugar. 3 lbs. glucose. 6 lbs. sweet blanched almonds. 4 pints water. process.--boil the sugar, water and glucose in the usual way to the degree of weak crack, 305 by the thermometer, then ease the pan a little way off the fire, and let the almonds gently slide into the mass. use the spatula a little just to keep the almonds from sticking to the bottom, stirring lightly only the one way, then watch the boil carefully till it turns a light golden color; lift off the pan and pour the contents into the frames. the almond will come to the top better in tins than in pouring plates. of course a better quality is made by adding more almonds, or vice versa. the almond after being blanched should be spread on a tin and dried, either on the stove top or in the oven. raspberry candy. 12 lbs. white sugar. 3 lbs. raspberry jam. 2 quarts water. brilliant rose coloring. process.--melt the sugar in water, and boil to ball 250; add the raspberry jam, and stir it well in; remove the pan from the fire, add sufficient coloring to make bright raspberry; rub part of the mixture with spatula against side of pan until it changes a heavy opaque, then stir the whole mass until uniform. pour the contents carefully on a slab, covered with greased paper; make the sheet about 1/2 inch thick, mark into bars with a sharp knife, and break up when cold. apricot candy. 6 lbs. white sugar. 2 lbs. apricot jam or pulp. 2 pints water. saffron coloring. process.--melt the sugar in the water and boil to ball, 250, add the jam or pulp. stir well until thoroughly mixed in, remove the pan, rub part of the contents against the side of the pan with spatula until cloudy and opaque; color with saffron a bright yellow, then stir the whole together until uniform cloudy; pour out in frames or on slab covered with oiled paper. a pinch of tartaric acid would improve the flavor, but often prevent candying, unless in the hands of an expert. in any case the acid should be added in a fine powder after the whole has been thoroughly grained. a pallette knife is a very useful knife for rubbing the sugar against the sides of the pan. brown cocoanut candy. 14 lbs. brown sugar. 6 large cocoanuts sliced. 3 pints water. process.--melt the sugar in the water, and boil to degree of ball, then add the sliced cocoanut, stir them in remove the pan from the fire and rub the sugar against the side of the pan until it becomes cloudy stir the whole together until the whole becomes cloudy and thick; turn out the batch into tins or on slabs; mark with a sharp knife into squares or bars. when cold break it up at marks. prepare the cocoanuts by cutting them up into thin slices with a spokeshave or machine. the brown skin is seldom skinned off for this dark candy. white cocoanut candy. 14 lbs. white sugar. 6 large cocoanuts peeled and sliced. 3 pints water. process.--peel off all the brown skin from the nuts with a sharp knife; wash them and cut into thin slices. melt the sugar in the water and boil to ball 250, add the sliced nuts, keeping the boil well stirred. when thoroughly mixed, remove the pan from the fire and commence to grain with pallette knife or spatula until the whole mass turns an opaque white. now turn out the batch into frames, or on the slab, which has been covered with paper; mark into convenient sized bars, break up when set hard. chocolate cocoanut candy. 10 lbs. brown sugar. 1 lb. pure block cocoa. 4 cocoanuts shredded. 3 pints water. process.--when cracking the nuts, do so over a basin and save all the milk: peel all brown skin off and cut the nut into fine shreds with machine; dissolve the sugar in the pan with the water and cocoanut milk, boil up to ball, remove the pan a little off the fire, then add the nut together with the pure block cocoa, stir the whole together, grain on side of pan as before directed. stir the whole well up and turn out into frames or on pouring plates. n.b.--the pure cocoa should have been previously melted in a saucepan or chopped up in small pieces. in the latter case there is less waste, and the heat of the sugar would soon melt it. fruit candy. 7 lbs. white or brown sugar. 1 lb. currants cleaned and dried. 1/2 lb. sultanas. 1/2 lb. sweet almonds. 2 pints water. saffron coloring. process.--mix together the fruits, which should have been freed from grit and dust; boil the sugar and water to the degree of ball, 250; remove the pan from the fire; gently grain the boil by rubbing a little of the syrup against the side of the pan until cloudy, then slide in the fruit and stir the whole together, adding a little saffron to color a bright yellow. see that the mass has changed to an opaque, then turn the lot out into frames or on a pouring slab. candies, various. fruits green, dried or preserved, almonds and nuts of almost every description, as well as flavors and colors of a pleasant taste and pretty hue may be used in making candies. the process is exactly the same: the ingredients can be arranged to suit the fancy of the maker and the palate of his customers. the field to select variety from seems inexhaustible, so that new goods of this class should be introduced ad. lib. no good purpose could be served by giving a procession of these simple instructions, when with little thought and judgment anyone could invent a new candy for themselves. it might be as well to add that a little glucose or cream of tartar added will make the candies softer, and may be used, if preferred, in each formula in the proportion of 2 lbs. of glucose or a teaspoonful of cream tartar to every 10 lbs. of sugar. [illustration: roller patterns. no. to lb. 1 tom thumb drop 1000 2 currant drop 840 3 acid drop 500 4 sour ball 250 5 sour ball 180 6 fish 200 7 fish 150 8 fish 120 9 fish 60 10 fish 40 11 strawberry 200 12 raspberry 200 15 shell 200 16 motto lump 200 17 motto lump 120 18 motto lump 80 27 seal cough 200 28 waffle 180 33 cigar 35 37 heart and hand 100 38 acorn 209 42 batton 200 53 cough 120 54 polka 200 55 rifle 150 58 twist loaf 200 ] barley sugar drops. 14 lbs. white sugar. 3 lbs. glucose. 4 pints water. 1/4 oz. oil lemon. saffron coloring. process.--put the sugar and water in a pan, place it on the fire, giving it an occasional stir until the sugar is dissolved, then add the glucose, or 1/4 oz. cream of tartar--either will do, but do not use both--place the cover on the pan and let it boil for ten minutes or so, (the cover is put on to steam the sides of the pan and keep it clean and free from granulation); take off the cover and put in the thermometer, immersing the bottom part in the boiling liquid. let the whole boil until it reaches the degree of crack, 300; tinge with saffron, then pour the contents on pouring plate, which has been previously oiled; sprinkle a few drops of oil of lemon over it, turn the edges as it begins to cool: then turn it over, knead it up as soon as you can handle it: if it is on a cool slab you must be pretty smart or it will get too hard. as soon as it gets stiff enough cut off small convenient pieces and pass through the barley sugar machine; when cool break up, give them a good shake in a rough sieve to free them from any machine scraps; the drops are then ready for bottling. powdered sugar is not usually mixed with these drops. pear drops. 14 lbs. white sugar. 3 lbs glucose. 1/4 oz. essence of pear. 1 oz. tartaric acid. 2 quarts water. paste, red color. process.--dissolve the sugar in the water, add the glucose, and bring the whole to the degree of crack, pour the contents on the slab, rub in a little red paste color in one corner of the boil to color light pink, turn up the edges, add the powdered acid in a little heap, pour over the acid the pear essence and thoroughly mix through the entire mass by kneading: when the batch is stiff enough cut off in small pieces and pass through the pear drop rollers; when cold sift and mix some icing sugar amongst them, and bottle. raspberry drops. 14 lbs. white sugar. 2 quarts water. 3 lbs. glucose. 1/2 oz. essence of raspberry. 1 oz. tartaric. coloring, brilliant rose. process.--melt the sugar in the water, add the glucose and boil the whole up to crack; pour out the boil on a cold slab, rub in a little of the cherry paste to color, turn up the edges, put in the powdered acid in a little heap, pour over the acid the raspberry flavoring and knead up the batch till thoroughly mixed and fit for the machine. cut off in pieces and pass through the raspberry rollers; sift, dust and bottle when cold. almond tablets. 14 lbs. brown sugar. 3 lbs glucose. lemon flavoring. 2 lbs. almonds, chopped. 4 pints water. process.--boil the sugar, glucose and water, as directed, to the degree of crack; pour the boil on oiled plate, sprinkle the almond over it with a few drops of oil of lemon, knead the whole together till stiff, cut off small pieces and pass through tablet rollers. pine apple drops. 14 lbs. white sugar. 3 lbs. glucose. 4 pints water. 1 oz. tartaric acid. saffron coloring. 1/4 oz. essence pine apple. process.--boil the sugar, glucose and water, as before directed, to the degree of crack 310; add to the boil saffron paste after it has been poured on the slab: when on the slab put in the acid and essence of pineapple; knead the whole together; when stiff enough, cut off in pieces and pass through the pineapple roll. cocoanut tablets. 14 lbs. white sugar. 3 lbs. glucose. 1 lb. desiccated cocoanut. 4 pints water. process.--boil the sugar, water and glucose to the degree of crack; pour on slab and sprinkle the desiccated cocoanut over the boil, flavor with lemon, mix up and pass through tablet rollers. acid drops and tablets. 14 lbs. best white sugar. 3/4 oz. cream of tartar. lemon flavoring. 4 pints water. 4 oz. tartaric acid. process.--put the sugar and water in clean bright pan and bring to the boil, add cream of tartar, place the lid on the pan and boil for ten minutes: remove the cover and put in thermometer, boiling on a sharp fire to the degree of crack: pour out at once on clean, greased slab: when cool enough, turn up at the edges and fold the boil over, then add the acid which has been finely powdered, together with a few drops of lemon; knead up the whole until stiff and pass through drop or tablet rollers; break up when cold, and dust with powdered sugar, weigh and bottle. n.b.--we mean the term "white sugar" to include loaf, dutch crush, granulated or crystal; any of these of good quality will answer the purpose. brown cough drops. 14 lbs. brown sugar. 3 lbs. glucose. 3 oz. acid tartaric. 1/2 oz. oil aniseed. 1/4 oz. oil cloves. 1/4 oz. oil peppermint. 2 oz. herb horehound. 5 pints water. process.--first boil the herb horehound in the water ten minutes, then strain; add the liquor to the sugar and the glucose, and boil as for other drops to crack 310; pour on oiled slab; turn up the edges and fold in the boil, then put the tartaric acid in a little heap on the boil, and pour over it the aniseed, clove and peppermint, knead up the whole, thoroughly mixing the flavors until stiff enough to pass through machine cough drop rollers. n.b.--the brown sugar should be of good boiling quality. light cough drops. 14 lbs. white sugar. 3 lbs. glucose. 3 oz. acid tartaric. 1/2 oz. cough drop essence. 1/2 oz. oil aniseed. 4 pints water. process.--boil the sugar, glucose and water as before directed to the degree of crack, 310; pour on greased slab; first turn up boil, then add powdered acid, cough drop essence and oil of aniseed; mix thoroughly until ready for machine, and pass through cough drop rollers; break up, sift, and dust with powdered sugar. n.b.--we have almost said enough about plain machine drops; they are all practically made alike, the color, flavor and shape alone differing. see _our_ list for _colors_ and _flavors_, _candy machines_ and _rollers_. tar cough drops. 1 oz. dried rose leaves boil in 1 gallon water to half a gallon, strain and mix with 10 pounds sugar, 21 pounds glucose and 1 oz. strained tar, boil to the crack and finish as for other drops. imitation chocolate sticks. 8 lbs. white sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. vanilla flavoring. 3 pints water. 1 oz. tartaric acid. process.--place the pan containing the sugar and water on the fire, stir in the glucose and bring the lot to the degree of weak crack, 300; pour on the slab, turn up the edges, fold over the boil, and add the acid and vanilla; when thoroughly mixed and stiff enough to handle, then pull over the hook until glossy white: remove it to the slab, and roll into rods about half an inch thick; when cold snip off into short equal lengths and dip them into melted chocolate paste, composed of 1/2 lb. pure block cocoa, 1/2 lb. ground sugar and 3 oz. lard or cocoa butter (no water). melt these ingredients in a vessel by standing it on the hot furnace plate (not too near the fire) stir until all is dissolved and incorporated, then dip sticks in this mixture singly, taking them out immediately and laying them on wire frames to dry. chocolate cocoanut sticks. 8 lbs. white sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. desiccated cocoanut. 3 pints water. 4 oz. pure cocoanut. process.--boil the sugar, water and glucose as directed to degree of weak crack, 300; pour on oiled slab: cut off one third for pulling; add to the other two-thirds the pure cocoa and mix it in; pull the smaller piece over the hook until white and glossy; spread out the solid sugar and lay the pulled in the centre casing it round evenly then roll into sticks 1 inch thick; when cold, snip off into lengths make a thin solution of gum or gelatine, wet the surface of each stick, and roll in desiccated cocoa nut; when dry they are ready for sale. acid sticks. clear white. 10 lbs. white sugar. 2 oz. tartaric acid. lemon flavoring. 1/2 oz. cream of tartar. 3 pints water. process.--put the sugar and water in a clean bright pan, add the cream of tartar and boil up sharply to a weak crack, 300; pour the batch on oiled slab; turn in the edges, fold the boil over, then put in powdered acid with a few drops of lemon; knead the whole together, working one end down to a point; draw it out the required thickness, the full length of the plate, cut it off, then do another length likewise, repeating the operation until the boil is worked up; keep the first piece in shape by occasionally rolling them while the remainder of the boil is being pulled out and shaped. when the boil is finished, and the sticks cold, snip them off in lengths with scissors. an assistant is very useful to keep the sticks in motion while the boil is being worked up or they may become flat. peppermint sticks. dark brown with light stripes. 8 lbs. brown sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. 3 pints water. peppermint flavoring. process.--bring the sugar, glucose and water to the degree of crack in the usual way; pour the batch on the slab; work in the flavors; cut off a piece about 1-1/2 pounds from the boil and pull it over hook until light and satiny, then roll the pulled sugar out into a long stick, cut it into six pieces of equal length and lay them on the solid boil longways and equal distances apart, then roll the boil into shape, bring down one end to a point; pull out into convenient lengths, twisting them so that the stripes form a pretty spiral round the stick. n.b.--for the stripes in this case, white sugar is often used and looks much better, but to do so two pans are necessary, one may be a small saucepan to boil two pounds. the white sugar is boiled separately in the ordinary way, otherwise, process, would be exactly as described. lemon sticks. pulled yellow centre with yellow case. 8 lbs. white sugar. 2 lbs glucose. yellow paste color. 3 pints water. lemon essence. process.--boil the sugar, glucose and water to a weak crack; pour the batch on oiled slab; work in color and flavor; cut off one-third and pull over the hook until of a bright yellow satiny appearance; remove it from the hook; spread out the plain sugar and lay the pulled in the centre; case it nicely all round with solid, then commence to roll; bring one end down to required thickness; pull out into sticks as long as convenient, when cold snip into lengths required. orange sticks. pulled white body with one broad red and two narrow orange stripes. 8 lbs. white sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. 3 pints water. red coloring. oil of orange. tartaric acid. process.--boil the sugar, glucose and water to the weak crack, 300; pour batch on slab; cut off about one-third of the boil; divide this into two pieces; color one-part a deep red and the other a deep orange; mix in the colors quickly and stand them aside on a piece of wood in a warm place till wanted; now put the acid and flavoring into the larger portion of the boil and pull over the hook until white and spongey; remove it to the slab, then take the piece of red sugar and draw it out about 18 inches long and 2-1/2 inches wide; lay it down the centre of the pulled sugar, then take the piece of orange sugar and pull it out about 3 feet, half the thickness of the red, cut in two and place one on each side of the red, about two inches from it, roll, twist and pull out the recognized thickness; when cold, snip in lengths. cinnamon sticks. clear pink body with four narrow white stripes. 6 lbs. white sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. cinnamon flavor. 3 pints water. cherry paste color. process.--bring the sugar, glucose and water to the crack and pour out; cut off piece and pull it white: color the body light pink, add the flavor, prepare the four stripes as before directed, lay them on the clear sugar, equal distance apart, roll out in lengths and snip off when cold. clove sticks. almost transparent with a tinge of red, striped with white and red stripes alternately. 8 lbs. sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. 3 pints water. cherry paste color. oil of cloves. process.--boil the sugar, glucose and water to 300; pour on the oiled slab; cut off small portion, divide it into two, color one deep red, pull both stripes and lay them alternately on the solid sugar, form the boil into a roll, bring down one end, usually the left end, to a point; pull out in long lengths and twist; when cold snip with scissors to size. raspberry sticks. pulled white centre, cased with red and striped with six narrow white stripes. 8 lbs. white sugar 2 lbs. glucose. 3 pints water. cherry red paste color. raspberry essence. process.--boil the sugar, glucose and water to crack 300; pour the batch on plate; cut in half and color one half red, then flavor both halves with essence, (raspberry and a little tartaric acid); pull one half over the hook and cut off one third of it and lay it aside; put the other two thirds in the centre of the red solid sugar and case it around; now lay the remaining piece of pulled sugar in six lengths of equal thickness and distances apart on the top of the cased boil; roll out the ball to the required thickness, twist and snip off into lengths when cold. twisted barley sugar sticks. hand made. 8 lbs. white sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. 3 pints water. lemon flavoring. saffron color. process.--put the sugar and water in a clear, bright pan and bring to a boil, then add the glucose: put on the lid for five minutes, continue boiling in the usual way till it reaches crack 300; now add sufficient coloring to tinge a golden color and pour the boil carefully over the smooth slab, so that the sheet of sugar will not be more than the eighth of an inch thick. when the sheet has partly set, cut it into strips one inch wide and the whole length of the sheet with scissors. let an assistant take charge of the strips and twist them by taking hold of an end in each hand and turn them in opposite directions, forming a spiral column; when cold snip the required lengths and carefully weigh and bottle. to make these goods the operators must be very quick in their movements. the slab must be warm on which the sugar is poured, as the thin sticks cool so fast and get brittle. peppermint bull's eyes. for cornered drops cut at angles, black with white stripes. 8 lbs. brown sugar. 2 lbs glucose. 3 pints water. peppermint flavor. process.--the process is exactly the same as for peppermint stick, viz; boil the sugar water and glucose to weak crack, 300; pour the boil on oiled plate, flavor with peppermint and work well up; in a smaller pan have two pounds of white sugar, with the usual proportion of cream of tartar and water boiled to the same degree; pull this over the hook until white and porous; remove it to the plate and work it down into lengths about one inch thick; lay them longways on the solid boil, equal distances apart; make the whole boil into a thick roll, bringing one end down to a point; draw off as for one cent sticks, but thicker; then with scissors snip them off in pieces about an inch long. hold the scissors in the right hand, the sugar in the left; every time you make a clip turn the sugar half way round, so that the corners of each cushion will be at opposite angles. bull's eyes, (various.) the formula given for the different kinds of sugar sticks will answer for the variety of bull's eyes. the process and ingredients are precisely alike. the sticks may or may not be drawn out a little thicker, according to the size of drop required. cream of tartar may be substituted for glucose in all recipes given for boiled goods. the sugar is not boiled quite so high for hand goods or pulled sugar as it is for machine drops; being a little lower it works better, keeps longer pliable, and is less brittle when cold. round balls. 8 lbs. sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. color. 3 pints water. flavor. process.--boil the sugar, water and glucose in the usual way to weak crack, say 300; pour the boil on the slab, color and flavor to taste; work the batch up until stiffish, then roll the boil round, getting one end down to a point as directed for sticks, pull it off in lengths of about three feet and about one inch thick; cut in pieces with "jackson ball cutter" and roll round with the hand. an expert assistant is necessary for this operation, as the balls must be shaped while hot and kept on the move till cold. [illustration: jackson ball cutters. this cut represents our improved ball cutter, or press, which cuts only one size ball; the improvement consists of a finger bar, operated by a cam, so that each time the handle is raised the fingers throw out the balls from between the knives. fig 211 a. no. 1 cuts 8 balls, 1-1/8 inch diameter (with fingerbar)} " 2 " 11 balls, 13-16 in. " " } $15 00 " 3 " 9 balls, 1 inch " " } ] [illustration: jackson ball cutter. this machine has two steel knives, and is regulated by a gauge, so that it will cut balls of any size. fig. 210 a. price, $5 00 ] this general recipe will apply to all balls. for details of pulling, striping, casing and variety the reader is referred to the various processes given for sticks and bulls eyes. they are all made and finished in this way. for small sizes, pull out the lengths thinner; for large sizes, thicker. to make the various striped balls nicely, requires practice and a good deal of it. no amount of book learning will teach those who are quite ignorant of sugar boiling; but at the same time if the reader has mastered the simpler process at the beginning of the book, he is quite capable of understanding this and working out his own ideas in this way; but hand-made balls should not be attempted until the learner feels confident he can manage a boil easily and quickly, because there is no time to think after the sugar is on the slab. the manipulation must now have been acquired to an extent so as to enable the operator to proceed as if by instinct. rose buds. 8 lbs. white sugar. 2 pounds glucose. 5 or 6 drops otto of roses. 3 pints water. cherry paste color. process.--boil the sugar, glucose and water to the degree of crack 300, pour on oiled slab, cut off about one third for pulling, color the larger piece a deep red and flavor with otto of roses; pull the smaller piece over the hook till white; spread out the larger piece, lay the pulled sugar in the middle, casing carefully round, pass through small acid drop rollers. n.b.--turn the boil on its edge every time you cut a piece for the machine, in order to keep the pulled sugar as near the centre as possible. ripe pears. 8 lbs sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. 3 pints water. 1 oz. tartaric acid. cherry red. yellow paste color. 1/4 oz. essence pear. process.--melt the sugar in the water, add the glucose and boil to 305; pour on slab, cut the batch into three equal parts, flavor with essence of pear, together with a little acid, color one part deep red and one deep yellow, pull the third portion over the hook and lay it between the yellow and red pieces so that one side will be yellow and the other bright red; cut off into convenient sizes and pass through large pear drop rollers. these goods are sold either plain or crystalized. boiled sugar toys. see our stock of clear toy moulds, list of which is mailed on application. they may be had to turn out all kinds of figures, such as dogs, cats, elephants, etc. they are very popular among the children and sell well in certain districts, and show a handsome profit. the moulds are generally made in two parts; they must be well oiled; the sugar boiled as for drops. fill the moulds full, and just before the whole mass sets, pour as much of the sugar out as will run; this will leave only a thin coating which cling to the sides of the shapes and will easily come out when the mould is parted, then you have the figures complete but hollow. boiled sugar whistles are made exactly the same way. to crystalize boiled sugar goods. several descriptions of boiled sugars are sold crystalized, which look very pretty and stand exposure to the atmosphere better. the process is very simple and may be done with little trouble. when the drops have been made and set, break them up and sift them well in a coarse sieve, now shake them over a pan which is boiling, so that they get damped by steam, and throw them in a heap of crystal sugar; mix them well up, so that the sugar adheres to the drops uniformly: now sift them out of the sugar again and they will dry in a few minutes and be ready for packing. another method is, when the drops have been made and sifted, to have a thin solution of gum or gelatine and shake it over them and rub them all together till damp all over; now throw over them sufficient crystal sugar to coat them and mix them up; when dry sift again and pack. n.b.---when being crystalized the goods should be warm, not hot, or they will candy. large french pears should be crystalized by the latter process and be almost cold during the operation; being bulky they retain the heat a long time, and therefore have a great tendency to grain. imitation indian corn. 8 lbs. white sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. yellow color. 3 pints water. lemon flavoring. process.--boil the sugar, glucose and water to weak crack, 305; pour the boil on slab, flavor with lemon and color yellow; cut this boil in two and pull one-half over the hook; roll the pulled half out in lengths about the size of a corn pod; now put the plain yellow sugar through the tom thumb drop rollers, loosening the screws a little, and ease the pulled sugar with sheets from the machine; if done carefully, the result will be a good imitation of real indian corn. popcorn balls. roast the corn berries over a smokeless fire in a corn popper (get our price for corn poppers); keep shaking until every berry has burst; boil sufficient sugar and water to the degree of feather, 245; add to each 7 lbs. syrup, four ounces of dissolved gum arabic; wet the popped corn in this syrup, and roll them in fine pulverized sugar until coated all over, then lay them aside; when dry repeat the coating process in the same manner until they have taken up the desired thickness of sugar. weigh or measure sufficient coated berries, according to size of ball required, moisten them with thin syrup, partly form the ball by hand, then put it in a pop corn ball press and press tightly into shape, then form into balls in the usual way with pop corn ball press. [illustration: pop corn ball press makes balls 3-1/2 inches diameter, has brass cups top and bottom, so arranged that the ball is pushed out of the cup at each operation. any size ball made to order. price complete any size ball, $35 00 fig. 208 a.] popcorn bricks. process.--the corn berries are prepared as for balls; boil brown sugar in the proportion of 8 lbs. sugar and two pounds molasses to ball, 250; pour the syrup over the corn and thoroughly mix them; press them immediately into oiled tins. the process should be done quickly and the seeds pressed as tightly together as possible; when cold they are ready for sale and may be cut to size with sharp knife. [illustration: pop corn hand ball press. 2 in. diameter price $4 00 2-1/2 " " " 4 00 3 " " " 4 00 3-1/2 " " " 5 00 4 " " " 5 00 egg shape 3-1/8 × 2-1/4 " 5 00 fig. 209 a.] pop corn cakes. process.--prepare the corn as for balls and pack them closely into strong square tins slightly oiled with olive oil of best quality; boil to crack, sufficient brown sugar and glucose for quantity required and pour the hot syrup over the pop corns, just enough to make them adhere. when cold cut them up with a sharp knife the size. [illustration: corn poppers--made very strong. 1/2 peck $2 00 1 peck 2 75 1/2 bushel 3 75 1 bushel 4 75 fig. 523.] jap nuggets no. 1. 2 lbs. white sugar. 4 lbs. glucose. 4 lbs. desiccated cocoanut unsweetened. yellow coloring. 1-1/2 lbs. farina. 2 pints water. process.--mix the ingredients in copper pan; boil on a slow fire to stiff ball, 250, stirring all the time; add coloring to fancy; when ready, pour carefully on an oiled plate, making the sheet about half an inch thick; when cold, dust with pulverized sugar and cut up with sharp knife to size. n.b.--a few loose iron bars are useful to form a square on the pouring plate, in proportion to size of boil; that the exact thickness of sheet may be determined. [illustration: patent candy cutter. for cutting caramels, japanese cocoanut, and all kind of bar candies. cuts all thicknesses up to one inch, and all widths up to one and one-quarter inches. moving bed of machine is 32 inches long and 9 inches wide. will cut 1500 pounds of candy per day. one of the handiest and most useful all round machines a man can buy. price, $75 00] jap nuggets no. 2. 2 lbs. white sugar. 4 lbs. good brown. 5 lbs. desiccated cocoanut. 7 lbs. glucose. 2-1/2 lbs. farina. 3 pints water. process.--put the sugar, glucose and water in the pan; place it on a slow fire; stir in the cocoanut and farina and boil to stiff ball, 255, keeping it well stirred. pour on an oiled slab, and cut up to size; when set, dust with powdered sugar. in large factories where this candy is made, machinery plays an important part. in fact the manipulation is practically all done by mechanism. there is the desiccator for preparing the cocoanuts, the steam pans, which are fitted with beaters revolving inside, fixed with chains and weights for lifting them out, so that the cans may be emptied and cleaned without trouble; also plates for rolling out sheets to size, and cutting machines which cut the nuggets any size, the machine being so arranged that by simply altering a pawl on a ratchet wheel the size of the nuggets is determined. where this elaborate arrangement exists our formula would neither be desirable nor necessary, nor do we pretend to suggest or advise. however, many tons are made in the ordinary boiling shop with the usual appliances and conveniences, and it is to assist people thus situated is the principal object of this book. jap nuggets no. 3. 4 lbs. good brown sugar. 3-1/2 lbs. glucose. 3 pints water. 4 lbs. desiccated cocoanut unsweetened. 2 lbs. farina. process.--as before, brown coloring should be used if required dark; it makes goods look richer; when the boil is cut up the nuggets should be thrown into pulverized sugar. vanilla nougat (common.) 12 lbs. white sugar. 3 lbs. glucose. 1/2 oz. essence vanilla. 4 lbs. sweet almonds small. 3 pints water. process.--put the sugar, glucose and water in a clean pan, place it on a sharp fire and stir until dissolved; then put on the cover and let it boil for five or six minutes; now remove the lid and continue to boil to soft ball degree; now pour the contents on a damp slab (one over which water has been sprinkled); when cool take a long flat spatula and work the sugar about until it becomes white and creamy; now add the almonds (which have been previously blanched and dried), together with the vanilla essence; keep working up the whole until of uniform consistency; now spread the mass on wafer paper in sheets one inch thick, cover the sheets with wafer paper, rolling the top smooth; when set cut into bars. should the cream be a little thin add some icing sugar when mixing; if boiled properly this is not required. most cheap nougats now in the market are made more or less according to this formula, color and flavor differently for variety. ice cream confectionery. boil 7 lbs. of loaf sugar with three pints of water: add a small teaspoonful of cream of tartar, allow it to boil for 10 minutes, then add one pound of fresh butter: it will then commence to froth up, and care must be taken that the pan is large enough, as the syrup will occupy twice the space than if there had been no butter added; boil this mixture to the degree of very weak crack, or 285 by the thermometer, at which point it is done; pour it on the slab, which has been of course previously greased. as soon as it begins to cool, turn it up and knead it until it gets stiff enough to pull over the hook. when on the hook pull it sharp till it gets white as snow. this white is usually flavored with vanilla or oil of lemon. it may be either pulled out in bars or left in the heap. it is very easily broken in small pieces for retail purposes. in the summer or hot weather keep this candy from the air, or it will be inclined to be sticky. this eats very rich and commands good sale at best prices. raspberry and strawberry ice cream confectionery. this is made exactly as the last with the addition of a little red color before the boil is poured out, or it may be colored on the slab; add a little essence of raspberry or strawberry and a pinch of tartaric acid just before pulling the boil. color the raspberry a little deeper than the strawberry. chocolate ice cream. to make chocolate ice cream, boil the same quantities as before precisely in the same way in every particular. when the sugar has been pulled out, work well into it 1/2 lb. powdered chocolate; knead this well up in order that the chocolate may be well mixed with the sugar. put in sufficient chocolate to give the boil a dark brown color, otherwise it would be too light when pulled. vanilla caramels. 8 lbs. white sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. 1 lb. fresh butter. 2 tins condensed milk. 2 pints water. vanilla flavoring. process.--boil the sugar, glucose and water to the degree of ball 250; remove the pan a little from the fire, add the milk and butter, the latter cut into little pieces and well stir in with wooden spatula until the whole is thoroughly mixed, then gently bring the mass through the boil and pour out on greased slab, making the sheet about 1/2 inch thick; when set cut with caramel cutter, and when cold separate the squares and wrap in wax paper. cocoanut caramels. 8 lbs. sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. 1 lb. fresh butter. 1-1/2 lbs. desiccated cocoanut, unsweetened. 2 tins condensed milk. 2 pints water. process.--melt the sugar in the water, add the glucose and boil up to ball 250; remove the pan to side, then stir in the butter, milk and cocoanut, bring through the boil, pour on slab or in frames about 1/2 inch thick; when set mark with caramel cutter; when cold separate and wrap in wax paper. [illustration: clads pattern cocoanut grater. extra strong, two graters. clamps to table or bench, $1 50 fig. 21. citron and cocoanut cutter. no. 1 large price, $1 20 a very handy and useful slicer. durable and cheap.] raspberry caramels. 8 lbs. sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. 1 lb. fresh butter. brilliant rose color. 1 lb. raspberry pulp or jam. 2 tins condensed milk. 2 pints water. process.--boil the sugar, glucose and water to weak crack 250; remove the pan to side of fire, add the milk, butter (cut small) and jam; stir the whole together, replacing the pan on the fire; add sufficient coloring; keep stirring all the time until the whole comes through the boil; pour out, mark with set, divide and wrap when cold. walnut caramels. 8 lbs. white sugar. 1 lb. shelled walnuts broken small. 2 lbs. glucose. 1 lb. fresh butter. saffron coloring. 2 tins condensed milk. 2 pints water. process.--as above, caramels require careful watching and a lot of stirring, the boil being liable to catch and flow over; fire must not be too fierce; when too hot put an iron under one side of the pan to keep it up a little from the fire; keep constantly on the stir after butter and flavoring ingredients are added. chocolate caramels. 8 lbs. good sugar. 1/2 lb. pure chocolate unsweetened. 2 lbs glucose. 1 lb. fresh butter. vanilla flavoring. 2 pints water. 2 tins condensed milk. process.--when the sugar, glucose and water have been boiled to the degree of ball, 250, and the milk, butter and chocolate have all dissolved and incorporated, bring gently through the boil, then pour out on oiled slab or in frames; when set, mark deeply with caramel cutter; when cold, separate with sharp knife and wrap in wax paper. vanilla caramels no. 1 quality. 6 lbs. sugar. 2 quarts sweet cream. essence of vanilla. 15 lbs. fresh butter. 4 lbs. glucose. process.--put the sugar, glucose and cream in the pan; put it on a slow fire and stir constantly; let it boil to a stiff ball, then add the butter; keep stirring, when it has well boiled through, remove the pan from the fire; flavor with vanilla extract: pour out on oiled plate; mark when set with caramel cutter; when cold, divide with sharp knife and wrap each caramel in wax paper. vanilla caramels, no. 2 quality. 5 lbs. sugar. 1 lb. fresh butter. 3 pints new milk. 1/2 oz. cream of tartar. 2 pints water. vanilla flavoring. process.--boil the sugar, milk and water with the cream of tartar on a slow fire, stir all the time till it reaches a stiff ball, add the extract of vanilla and stir it gently; remove the pan from the fire and pour contents on oiled slab; mark deep with caramel cutter when set; when cold separate with sharp knife. these caramels should be cream color. maple caramels. by using pure maple, maple caramels may be made precisely as vanilla; the flavor of the maple sugar is sufficient without any artificial essence. these caramels will of course be dark. raspberry and strawberry caramels. these flavors may be used in either of the last two recipes--best quality according to the first, second quality as to the second. walnut, cocoanut, etc., may be added for other flavors. chocolate caramels no. 1 quality. 6 lbs. best sugar. 4 lbs. glucose. 1-1/2 lbs. pure chocolate, unsweetened. 2 quarts sweet cream. 1-1/2 lbs. fresh butter. process.--put the sugar and cream in the pan, stir it well together, then add the glucose; let it boil to a stiff ball, ease the pan off the fire a little and put in the butter in little pieces, then the chocolate; keep stirring together; bring the mass through the boil, then add extract of vanilla; remove the pan and pour contents on oiled slab, making the sheet about 1/2 inch thick; mark deep with caramel cutter when set; divide with sharp knife when cold and wrap in paper. chocolate caramel, no. 2 quality. 5 lbs. sugar. 3/4 lb. fresh butter. 1 quart of new milk. 3/4 lb. pure chocolate, unsweetened. 1/2 oz. cream of tartar. process.--melt the sugar in the milk, add the cream of tartar and boil to the degree of ball; ease the pan a little off the fire and stir in the butter and chocolate; bring the whole to a boil, add extract of vanilla, then remove the pan and pour contents on the slab; mark and separate as directed on last. unwrapped caramels. caramels have usually been sold wrapped in wax paper. this is necessary when the goods are boiled very low and contain a large proportion of glucose. like other caramels the ingredients vary, but the following will answer the purpose:- 7 lbs. white sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. 1/2 lb. fresh butter. 1 tin condensed milk, or one quart sweet cream. 3 pints water. vanilla flavoring. process.--boil the sugar, glucose and water to weak crack 285; remove the pan from the fire, add the butter and milk, stir gently until dissolved, add the flavoring just before the stirring is finished, then pour contents on oiled slab; when cool enough cut with caramel cutter. if required crinkly on top; run over the sheet with a corded rolling pin just before cutting. [illustration: buttercup or mixed drop machine. this machine is used for cutting buttercups, and a large variety of other candies. has saw teeth for making crimped edged buttercups. very quick working machine. price, $19 00 ] [illustration: latest thing out. new satinette press. buttercups and satinettes will have a very large sale this season. purchase one of our machines and make your own. the machine will pay for itself in a short time, besides you can always have fresh made goods. price $15.00] [illustration: cullums patent buttercup cutter. no. 1. no. 2. fingers for buttercup cutters. this is a machine every confectioner should have for cutting buttercups, drops, &c. no. 1 machine is same as no. 2, but is 24 inches long, 3 inches wide, will cut 70 pieces at one movement, and is the cheapest machine ever put on the market. price, $5 00 no. 2 machine is 34 inches long, 4 inches wide, cuts 150 pieces, giving them a fine cushion shape and glossy appearance. cuts three times as fast as any roller. comparatively no waste or cracked buttercups with this machine. cut represents lifter, the fingers of which fit into the knives of the machine so that the 150 pieces of candy can be removed by one movement. price, $14 00 machine with teeth to form buttercup with stitched edges. price, $20 00] buttercups. these beautiful candies are very popular; they are pleasing both to the eye and the palate when they are well made, but they must be kept air tight or they will soon lose all their attractiveness and become a sticky mass, as they have a great tendency to "sweat." in order to prevent this as much as possible it is advisable to use a little borax in each boil. the process is simple enough, but must be worked quickly, in fact the beauty depends upon the rapid manipulation of the sugar over the hook; keep the eye fixed on the color; as soon as it becomes a glossy satin with a close grain it is finished; lift it off the hook immediately and return to the slab for casing. do not carry on the pulling operation until it becomes spongy, and be careful not to use too much color; the tints should be light and delicate when finished. machines are made for cutting buttercups, price $6.00 and $14.00, each machine. crimped edge machine, $20.00 each. _get our price list._ vanilla buttercups. 7 lbs. best white sugar. 2 lbs. fondant paste. 1 lb. desiccated cocoanut, fine. green color. 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 1 quart water. borax. process.--put the sugar, water and cream of tartar in the boiling pan and boil up to crack 310 in the ordinary way; while the pan is on the fire, take the fondant paste and work into it the desiccated cocoanut, with a little essence of vanilla, and lay aside till required. when the boil has reached the required degree pour the sugar on the slab, color it light green, and when partly cool, pull over the hook until it becomes a delicate satin tint; return it to the slab, press the boil out, lay the fondant paste in the centre and case it all around with the pulled sugar; now carefully work the one end of the boil down to a point as for sticks and draw it out in lengths, required thickness: lay them on the machine and press gently until cut through; the buttercups are then ready for packing. it is advisable to work small boils of these goods, as the casing being boiled soon gets brittle; keep turning the bulk round on the plate so as to keep the fondant paste exactly in the centre. raspberry cocoanut buttercups. 7 lbs. best white sugar. 2 lbs. fondant paste. 1 lb desiccated cocoanut. 1 lb. raspberry jam, boiled stiff. 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 1 quart water. carmine color. borax. process.--work the jam and cocoanut into the fondant paste; boil the sugar, water and cream tartar to crack; pour on oiled slab; color light rose tint: when partly cool, pull and work off as in the preceding recipe and cut with buttercup machine. cocoanut buttercups. 7 lbs. sugar. 2 lbs. fondant paste. 1 lb. desiccated cocoanut. yellow color. 1 teaspoon cream tartar. 1 quart water with borax. lemon flavor. process.--as usual, buttercups of any sort or flavor may be made by following the directions given, and substituting different essences, jams, chopped nuts or almonds, and color to fancy. black currant buttercups. 7 lbs. white sugar. 2 lbs fondant paste. 1 lb. black currant jam. 1/2 oz. tartaric acid. 1 teaspoonful cream tartar. 1 quart water. borax. purple color. process.--work the jam, acid and color into the fondant paste, boil the sugar, water and cream tartar to crack, and work off as already described. fondant cream work or buttercup filling. this branch of the business has developed wonderfully during the last few years. this cream is not only moulded and worked into every conceivable shape, size color and flavor by itself, but is used with chocolate, fruits, etc., to make an endless variety of pleasing and tasty confections. the smaller goods in this work form the body, and sometimes the whole, of many beautiful mixtures, and no window can now be considered orthodox unless they have a good display of these goods. for our purpose the variety is a matter of detail which we only mention to remind the reader that he must look for the greater part of it outside the covers of this guide. the process is practically the same all through; the mixing, flavors, colors and shapes make whatever distinction there is. it will only be necessary to give a fair selection of formulas to enable the reader to imitate anything he sees in this line, or invent something new. [illustration: fig. 15. a asbestos gas batch warmer or spinning furnace.--two sizes. 32 inches long, price $15.00. can be used in sections if desired.] raspberry & vanilla fondants. 10 lbs. white sugar. 2-1/2 lbs. glucose. raspberry and vanilla flavor. 3 pints water. carmine color. process.--boil the sugar, glucose and water in the usual way to the degree of soft ball; then remove the pan from the fire; damp the pouring plate with cold water; pour the boil on it and let it remain till nearly cold. with a long pallette knife or wooden spatula, commence to work the syrup until it changes to a white glossy cream; then divide the batch into two; put one part in the pan and remelt it, just enough to make it a consistency to mould, add vanilla flavor and run it into rubber moulds; now put the other portion in the pan and remelt; color it a light pink; flavor with essence of raspberry and mould in the same shapes; when the goods are set and cold crystalize them with cold syrup. n.b.--have everything very clean when making fondants; every speck will show; a touch of blue will make the white a better color. chocolate & vanilla fondants. 10 lbs white sugar. 2-1/2 lbs. glucose. vanilla flavoring. 3 pints water. 1/2 lb. pure chocolate. process.--prepare the fondant creams as in last recipe; when the boil has been creamed, divide into two, one part being twice the size of the other, put the small portion in the pan to remelt, adding the chocolate paste; stir until paste is dissolved and incorporated, but do not let the cream boil; remove the pan from the fire; run chocolate cream in rubber moulds filling the impressions only one-third part full; then melt the white cream, flavor with vanilla and fill up the moulds; when set crystalize in cold syrup; each fondant will be in two colors, white tipped with chocolate. [illustration: fig. 15. batch warmer or gas candy heater. price $5.00.] cocoanut fondants. 9 lbs. white sugar. 2-1/2 lbs. glucose. 1-1/2 lbs. fine desiccated cocoanut, unsweetened. carmine color. 3 pints water. lemon flavoring. process.--proceed to make the cream as before directed and divide the batch into two equal parts: remelt one part and stir in half the desiccated cocoanut with a few drops of lemon; half fill moulds; remelt the other portion of cream; stir in the remainder of the cocoanut; color pink, adding a few drops of essence lemon, and fill up the moulds; crystalize the usual way in cold syrup. strawberry fondants. 9 lbs. white sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. carmine coloring. 2 lbs. strawberry jam. 3 pints water. process.--boil the sugar, glucose and water to a soft ball degree, pour the batch on pouring plate, which has been previously damped with cold water, let the boil remain till nearly cold, then with a wooden spatula work the syrup about till it becomes cream, then mix in jam; return the whole to the pan and remelt, add sufficient color to make a bright pink, then run into moulds; when set, crystalize in cold syrup. cherry fondants. 10 lbs. sugar. 2-1/2 lbs. glucose. cherry flavor. 3 pints water. carmine and saffron color. process.--select some large, preserved cherries, cut them in half. boil the sugar, glucose and water in the ordinary way to ball degree, pour the batch on a damp pouring plate; when nearly cold work up the whole with spatula till it becomes a white glossy cream, working the flavor in at the same time; then divide into three equal portions, color one portion a bright pink and another a yellow, leaving the third white; knead each portion into stiff paste, adding a little icing sugar to make it tough; pinch off small pieces and form them into balls about the size of the cherry, make them a little flat on one side; on this flat part stick a half cherry, squeezing them into shape; place them in canvas trays and put them in the drying room for a few hours to harden; afterwards crystalize with cold syrup. other preserved fruits may be used in same way. fondants for mixtures. 10 lbs. white sugar. 2-1/2 lbs. glucose. flavors various. 3 pints water. colors various. process.--boil the sugar, glucose and water as before directed to a stiff ball and pour the sugar on damp slab; let it stand till nearly cold, then work it up with spatula till glossy cream; divide the boil into as many portions as you want colors; then remelt this cream, color and flavor to fancy; run the batch into moulds of different shapes. when the fondants are set, crystalize in cold syrup. fondants for mixture are made a trifle harder to prevent being crushed with other sweets with which they are mixed. to crystalize fondants 13 lbs. best white sugar. 4 pints water. process.--boil this quantity of sugar and water for a few minutes, about 220 degrees by the thermometer; stand it aside undisturbed till quite cold. pack the fondants in crystalizing tins, putting wire trays between each layer of say two inches deep; let the wire trays take a bearing on the ends of the tin; when the tin is full, cover the goods with cold syrup, putting a damp cloth over the top; stand the tins in a cool place in the drying room about ten hours; then remove them to a cold place; about an hour afterwards take out the plugs and drain off the superfluous syrup; when the fondants are dry, turn the tins on end, giving them a slight knock and empty them on clean trays; they will be ready for packing in an hour or so. n.b.--if a thin skin forms over the top of the syrup, skim it off before draining the goods; it may tend to granulate them, but the damp cloth ought to prevent this skin forming. christmas fancies--clear toy moulds. there are a great number of fancies made from grain sugars sold about christmas time. their beauty and attractiveness depends upon the moulds in which they are moulded, and the taste displayed in painting or decorating them. the goods themselves are quite a secondary consideration, being so simple to make. process.--boil 7 lbs. sugar, 1 lb. glucose, 2 pints water in the usual way to the degree of ball 250, by thermometer; remove it from the fire and rub the sugar against the side of the pan until thick and white; stir it all together, then fill the moulds through the runner. too much sugar must not be boiled at one time, or it will set before it can be all run into the moulds; two or three pounds will be enough for a beginner to practice with. they will be hard enough to be taken out of the moulds in fifteen to thirty minutes, according to size after being run, and they will be ready for decorating. artificial figures. fruit, eggs, and any object may be taken from nature by this process, to be transformed into sugar, afterwards glazed, colored to imitate nature so exactly as to deceive many persons. boil the sugar in exactly the same way as directed in the previous recipe, grain it and fill the moulds; in a few minutes run out as much sugar as will leave the mould; this will cause the casting to be hollow in the centre. allow your articles to imitate the natural objects which they represent with liquid colors and camel's hair pencils; if gloss is required the colors should be mixed with a strong solution of gum arabic or isinglass to the desired tint. composition clear toy moulds. made from finest quality of metal. the moulds marked thus x we have always in stock. any others made to order. no. name. no. in mould. no. to lb. price. x 1 horse and man large 3 16 $2 60 x 2 horse, small 3 48 1 30 x 3 general on horse 3 27 1 30 x 4 horse 4 45 1 30 5 horse, small 4 55 1 30 x 6 cow 3 38 1 30 x 7 sheep 4 30 1 30 x 8 dog, large 3 43 1 30 x 9 dog, medium 3 48 1 30 10 dog, small 3 55 1 30 x 11 monkey on horse 3 35 1 30 x 12 cat, large 3 28 1 30 x 13 cat, small 4 32 1 30 x 14 rat 4 32 1 30 15 deer, small 3 32 1 65 16 camel 3 45 1 30 x 17 rabbit, large 3 16 1 30 x 18 rabbit, medium 4 24 1 30 x 19 rabbit, small 4 38 1 30 x 20 lady on swan 3 30 1 30 21 chicken 3 38 1 30 x 22 rooster 3 35 1 30 23 eagle 3 35 1 30 x 24 crow 3 40 1 65 25 bear 4 35 1 30 26 baby, large 3 32 1 65 27 baby, small 3 30 1 30 28 jim crow 3 64 1 30 x 29 man and wheelbarrow 3 55 1 65 30 woman and churn 4 48 1 30 31 hand 3 38 1 30 32 basket and flowers 3 38 1 30 33 acorn 3 30 1 30 34 harp 3 31 1 30 x 35 fireman 3 24 1 30 x 36 tom thumb 3 48 1 30 x 37 soldier 4 48 1 30 38 steamboat 3 48 1 30 x 39 locomotive 3 43 1 30 x 40 sloop 3 43 1 30 41 flat iron 4 48 1 30 42 key 3 35 1 30 43 skate 3 55 1 30 44 pistol 3 48 1 30 x 45 shovel 3 27 1 30 46 scissors 3 43 1 30 47 fiddle 4 38 1 30 48 bugle 3 55 1 30 x 49 watch 3 21 1 30 50 basket with handle 3 31 1 30 x 51 flower basket, handle 3 28 1 30 x 52 pitcher, small 3 33 1 30 53 rocking horse, small 3 35 1 30 x 54 three figures 3 48 1 30 x 55 rabbit and basket 4 16 1 65 x 56 locomotive, large 3 14 1 30 x 57 church on hill 3 18 1 30 58 tea pot 3 48 1 30 x 59 lion 3 70 1 30 60 sword 3 27 1 30 61 boy and goat 3 43 1 30 x 62 watch, small 3 45 1 30 x 63 donkey 3 55 1 30 64 elephant 3 43 1 30 65 caught in the act 3 48 1 30 66 ladders 3 40 1 30 x 67 horse and cart 3 28 1 30 x 68 sparrow 3 19 1 30 69 small boat 3 43 1 30 70 locomotive, small 3 28 1 30 71 pitchers 3 31 1 65 x 72 sugar bowl 3 21 1 65 73 tea cup 3 40 1 30 x 74 coffee cup 3 21 1 30 75 saucers 3 35 1 30 x 76 tea pot 3 12 2 60 77 wine glass 3 41 1 65 78 wash tub 3 33 2 00 79 flower vase 3 23 1 65 80 round table 3 31 1 65 81 gun 4 48 1 30 82 pistol 4 32 2 00 83 pocket knife 4 38 1 30 84 dirk 4 40 1 30 85 rooster, small 5 55 1 30 86 crucifix 5 32 2 00 87 axe 4 48 1 30 88 pipe 6 21 2 00 89 ass 5 48 1 30 x 90 deer lying down 3 25 1 30 91 mule 3 21 1 30 x 92 dog, large 3 12 2 00 x 93 dog with basket 3 12 2 00 x 94 dog standing with basket 3 15 1 65 x 95 peacock 3 21 1 65 96 decanter 3 19 1 65 x 97 boots 5 27 1 65 98 plain basket with handle 3 23 1 65 99 wine glass, large 3 18 2 00 x 100 fire horn 3 21 2 00 101 squirrel and box 5 33 1 65 102 broom 3 13 1 65 x 103 bust of napoleon 4 20 2 00 104 ladys 3 28 1 65 x 105 cupid 3 21 1 65 106 rabbit 3 10 2 60 107 fish on plate 3 19 1 65 x 108 rooster 3 14 1 65 x 109 owl 3 16 1 65 x 110 cupid and basket 8 19 1 65 x 111 pony 3 18 1 65 x 112 dog 3 15 1 65 x 113 cat and dog fighting 3 18 1 65 114 grasshopper 3 13 2 60 x 115 steamboat 3 19 1 30 x 116 sea lion 3 12 1 65 x 117 rhinoceros 3 15 1 65 x 118 tiger 3 15 1 65 x 119 bear, small 3 20 1 65 120 bear, medium 3 16 1 65 x 121 bear, large 3 8 2 60 x 122 ape 3 14 1 65 x 123 large hand 3 11 1 65 x 124 bear sitting up 3 16 1 65 x 125 camel 3 18 1 65 x 126 squirrel 3 13 1 65 127 horse jumping 3 30 1 65 x 128 lamb lying down 3 14 1 65 129 sugar bowl 3 21 1 65 130 double pointed iron 3 16 1 65 131 boy on rocking horse 3 19 2 00 132 elephant 6 21 2 00 133 captain jack 3 18 1 65 134 frog smoking 3 16 1 65 135 swan 3 18 1 65 136 trumpet 3 16 1 65 137 boots 3 19 1 30 x 138 elephant 3 14 1 65 x 139 monkey on camel 3 20 1 65 x 140 cupid on lion 3 18 1 65 141 rabbit 4 25 1 65 142 monkey dressed in soldier clothes 3 24 1 30 143 pipe 6 33 2 00 x 144 sloop 3 12 2 00 x 145 rabbit and wheelbarrow 3 6 2 60 x 146 lamb, large 4 14 2 60 x 147 monkey on camel 3 8 2 60 x 148 boy and large lamb 3 11 2 60 x 149 pig 3 18 1 65 150 dog in kennel 3 15 1 65 x 151 fancy clock 3 18 1 65 152 small boy 3 30 1 65 x 153 mazeppa 3 13 2 00 154 crane 3 15 2 00 155 squirrel 3 10 2 00 156 boy riding dog 3 18 2 00 157 goat jumping 3 16 1 65 x 158 cow and calf 3 23 1 65 159 organ grinder with monkey 3 24 1 65 160 chriskingle deer and sleigh 2 10 1 65 x 161 basket 3 19 1 65 x 162 baby in cradle 3 16 1 65 x 163 horse 3 20 1 65 x 164 soldier boy 3 13 1 65 165 french lady 4 15 2 00 166 fancy bottles 4 12 1 65 167 boy stealing apples 3 13 2 00 x 168 hussar 3 9 1 65 169 scotchman 3 11 1 65 170 rabbit soldier 3 9 2 00 171 rabbit drummer 3 9 2 00 x 172 rabbit sportsman 3 16 1 65 x 173 railroad car 3 18 1 30 174 fancy tea kettle 3 11 1 65 175 spread eagle 2 7 1 65 x 176 chinaman and dog 3 13 2 00 177 rabbit traveller 3 16 1 65 x 178 frog on bicycle 3 15 2 00 179 ostrich 3 12 2 00 180 tramp 3 12 1 65 181 fox 2 12 1 30 x 182 horse and jockey 3 19 2 00 183 piggyback 3 16 1 65 184 fancy pitcher, large 3 13 2 00 x 185 sail boat 3 15 2 00 x 186 irishman and pig 3 15 2 00 187 monkey and piggyback 3 15 2 00 188 policeman and boy 3 14 2 00 189 dog and deer 3 12 2 00 x 190 boy and bicycle 3 18 2 00 191 owl on tree 3 12 2 00 192 puss in boots 3 10 2 00 x 193 kangaroo 3 11 2 00 x 194 giraffe 3 12 2 00 x 195 fancy pipe 2 12 2 00 x 196 rifle 4 38 1 30 197 irishman 3 23 1 30 x 198 chinaman 3 19 1 30 x 199 israelite 2 10 1 30 200 uncle sam 3 23 1 30 201 dutchman 3 16 1 30 x 202 dog sitting up 3 12 1 65 203 basket 3 14 2 00 204 dog running 3 21 1 30 205 shears 3 38 1 30 206 shovel 3 21 1 30 large moulds for hollow or clear toys. no. name. size. no. in mould. price. 1 deer 5 × 7 1 $4 00 2 deer 3 × 7 1 2 60 3 horse 5-1/2 × 5-1/2 1 6 75 * 4 horse 2-1/2 × 2-1/2 1 1 00 5 horse 2-1/2 × 2-1/2 2 2 00 6 horse 3 × 2-1/2 1 1 00 * 7 horse 2 × 2-1/2 3 2 00 * 8 camel 3 × 3 1 1 65 9 camel 5-1/2 × 5-1/2 1 6 75 10 elephant 3 × 5 1 2 00 11 elephant and boy 3 × 3 1 1 30 * 12 goat 3 × 2-3/4 2 2 00 * 13 cat 5 × 4-1/2 1 2 60 14 cat 3 × 4-1/2 1 2 00 15 dog 6 × 4 1 6 75 16 dog lying down 3-1/2 × 5-1/2 1 2 60 17 dog 3-1/2 × 4-1/2 2 3 10 18 wm. penn 5-1/2 high 1 2 00 * 19 indian 5-7/8 high 1 2 00 20 rooster 5 × 3-1/2 1 2 00 21 rooster 3-1/2 × 3 1 1 00 22 locomotive 10 × 5-1/2 1 13 00 23 locomotive, rabbit engineer 3-1/2 × 3-3/4 1 2 60 24 basket 2 × 6 1 9 25 25 basket 4-1/2 × 4 1 2 60 26 priest blessing children 2 × 6 1 1 30 27 washington 7 in. high 1 1 30 28 u. s. grant 2-1/4 in. high 1 2 00 29 gun 7 in. long 3 2 00 30 gun 7 in. high 1 1 00 31 ship full sail 7-1/2 × 6 1 6 75 32 steamboat 6-1/2 × 4 1 6 75 33 rowboat 9 in. long 1 4 00 34 rowboat 6 in. long 1 1 00 * 35 rowboat 2-1/2 in. long 2 2 00 36 whistle 4 2 00 37 whistle 3 1 30 38 spread eagle on half globe 4 × 6 1 6 75 39 rabbit 5 × 5 1 2 60 40 rabbit 3 × 3 2 2 00 * 41 lamb 4 × 6 1 2 60 42 lamb 3-1/4 × 3-1/2 2 2 00 43 rowboat 4-1/2 × 2-1/2 1 2 00 44 elephant, jumbo 8-1/2 × 6 1 6 75 45 lion 8-1/2 × 6 1 6 75 * 46 knight on horseback 3 × 5-1/2 1 1 30 47 fire engine 5 × 7 1 6 75 48 buffalo 5-1/2 × 8 1 6 75 vanilla cream bars. 7 lbs. white sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. 3 pints water. vanilla flavoring. process.--dissolve the sugar with water in a clean pan; add the glucose and boil in the usual way to the degree of feather, 243; pour the contents on a damp slab; let it remain a few minutes to cool; then with a pallette knife work it up to white cream, adding a tint of blue to bleach it; when the whole has become a smooth cream, return it to the pan and melt it just sufficient that it may pour out smooth and level; stir in the flavor and run on pouring plate 1/2 inch thick; when set cut into bars. raspberry or rose cream bars. 7 lbs. white sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. 3 pints water. raspberry or rose flavor. process.--melt the sugar in the water, add the glucose and boil to 243; pour contents on slab, and when cool divide the boil into three parts; color one part red, add some pure chocolate to another, and to a third add a pinch of blue, cream each part by rubbing on slab to a smooth paste; in rubbing in the pure chocolate, see that you have enough to make it a rich brown; for red portion use just sufficient to give a light rose pink. when all finished, melt each portion separately in the pan just sufficiently soft to run to a level surface; pour out first the red, then the chocolate on top of red sheet, then the white on top of chocolate; this will make a cream cake to cut up into bars. some do not take the trouble to melt the cream, being satisfied to spread the paste out, smoothing it on top with a pallette knife; this answers the purpose but does not look so well. cocoanut cream. 7 lbs. white sugar. 3 lbs. cocoanut peeled and sliced. 2 lbs. glucose. red coloring. 3 pints water. process.--boil the sugar, glucose and water in the usual way to the degree 245; pour contents on slab; divide the boil into two lots; when cool, color one part light pink and put a small touch of blue in the other; add the sliced cocoanut, half into each part, then commence to cream them by rubbing. when both parts have been mixed into a smooth paste, it is ready for sale, being usually sold by cutting from rough block. n.b.--cut almonds, ground walnuts, etc., are used in the same way as directed for cocoanuts. the boils may or may not be flavored, but a little improves it and makes it fragrant. maple cream. 8 lbs. yellow sugar. 1 quart sweet cream. 2 lbs. glucose. process.--boil the sugar, glucose and cream to 242 on thermometer, stirring all the time; when done lift off the fire and let stand till nearly cold (placing it where it will cool quickly), then stir until it sets; then melt over a slow fire (stirring constantly) until it becomes a nice creamy consistency, pour on a well greased tin, lay about one inch deep, let stand till cold, when by turning over the tin it will fall out. after the batch is set to cool in the tin, on no account disturb it as it will make the cream crack into pieces when turning out. if this is too expensive a recipe use milk instead of cream and add half a pound of butter. christmas pudding (imitation). 7 lbs. white sugar. 1 lb. raisins. 1/2 lb. sweet almonds blanched chopped. 1 lb. currants. 1 lb. sultanas. 1/2 lb. mixed peel. 1 oz. mixed spice. 2 pints water. process.--prepare fruit by washing currants in cold water, afterwards drying them; stone raisins; blanch and chop almonds; cut the peel in stripes, then mix them together, adding the spice; boil the sugar and water to ball degree; remove the pan from the fire: grain the boil by rubbing the syrup against the side of the pan in the usual way; when it becomes creamy, add the mixed fruit, carefully stirring the whole until thoroughly incorporated; have some wet cloths ready, into which divide the boil; tie them very tight and hang them up until set hard. the blanched almonds are used to represent suet and should be chopped accordingly. brown cream pudding. 7 lbs. brown sugar. 2 lbs. glucose. 1 lb. currants. 1/2 lb. sultanas. 1/2 lb. raisins. 1/2 lb. mixed peel. 1/2 oz. mixed spice. 2 pints water. process.--dissolve the sugar in the water and put the pan on the fire and add the glucose; let the whole boil to a stiff ball, then pour the contents on a damp pouring plate; when nearly cold commence to cream by rubbing and working it about the slab with pallette knife until it becomes opaque, stiff and creamy, have the fruit prepared and mix as in previous recipe, then work them into the boil with spatula; now divide the boil into small basins, holding about one pound each; press the cream well down and let them remain till set. take them out, brush over them a thin solution of gum and dust them with powdered sugar to represent frosting. before putting the cream in the basins, shake a little icing sugar over the basins, it will keep them from sticking. raspberry noyeau. 5 lbs. white sugar. 1 lb. glucose. 2 lbs. raspberry jam. 1 lb. almonds, blanched and dried. 3 pints water. liquid brilliant rose color. process.--boil the sugar, glucose and water to the ball degree, 250; ease the pan off the fire, add the jam and almonds, with sufficient color to make the whole a bright red; let the batch boil through, keeping it stirred gently until thoroughly mixed; now remove the pan from the fire and see if the batch has turned opaque; if not rub some of the syrup against the side of the pan and stir until whole boil shows a little creamy, then pour out on wafer paper, keeping the sheet about three-quarters of an inch thick; level the top down with pallette knife and cover with wafer paper; when set remove to a clean board and cut into bars with a sharp knife. in running sheets to thickness, arrange the loose bars on the pouring plate to form a square in proportion to the size of the boil. almost any kind of jam can be substituted for flavoring noyeau. what to do with scraps and siftings. it is necessary to know how to use up the scraps, siftings, spoiled boil candies and otherwise unsaleable goods. people who make jam or liquorice goods know of course what to do with them; but small makers often accumulate lots of waste which seems always in the way. this should be avoided as much as possible, not only on the ground of economy, but for the good order and general appearance of the workshop. keep the acid scraps separate from the others; have two pans (earthenware will do) and make it a rule, when sweeping down the plates, to throw the acid scraps into one pan and the others into the second pan; keep them well covered with water, and, as the syrup then gets too thick, put in more water in order that the scraps may dissolve. when making dark goods such as cough candy, cough drops, cocoanut candy, stick jaw, etc., use a proportion of this syrup in each boil, dipping it out with a ladle. as a rule a careful workman would use up his scraps every day. some use the machine scraps by putting them in the next boil when sugar is on the slab. the writer's experience is that that method is objectionable, as it not only causes the boil to be cloudy, but very often grains it. melt the acid scraps in water enough to form a thin syrup; put in some whiting, powdered chalk or lime; put the pan on the fire and stir until whole boils; see that all the scraps are dissolved; remove the pan and let it stand for an hour, then strain through flannel. use this syrup in the same way as the other for making common goods. cream for chocolate creams or bars. 10 lbs. white sugar. 3 pints water. 2-1/2 lbs. glucose. process.--put the sugar, glucose and water in a clean pan and boil in the usual way until the batch reaches the degree of feather 245; (keep the sides of the pan free from sugar); pour out on damp pouring plate and let it remain till nearly cold; then with long pallette knife commence to rub the sugar against the plate and work it about until it changes from a clear syrup to snow white creamy substance; then knead it with the hand until of uniform softness and no lumps left in the mass; it is now ready for use and may be kept covered in stoneware jars until required for various purposes. in winter the sugar need not be boiled so high; in hot weather, a little higher. when packing the cream away in jars it is better to keep the top moist by laying on a damp cloth before putting in the cork. seeing that cream keeps so well, of course it is saving to make much larger batches at a time. this can be easily arranged by multiplying the proportions according to size of pan and convenience. these proportions are a guide, but the writer knows of no absolute must be this or that, although he has made as many cream goods as most people and with as much success. he has seen as fine a sample made in the same workshop when the boil was made up a little different. however, in submitting his own formula, it may be taken for granted he is not a mile from the bull's eye. [illustration: fig. 17. chocolate melter or warmer. no. 1 size, 12-1/2 × 14 × 6, price $2 00 no. 2 size, 14-1/4 × 16-1/2 × 6, " 2 25 made from best quality of tin plate.] chocolate cream buns and cakes. 10 lbs. sugar. 2-1/2 lbs. glucose. 3 pints water. 1/2 oz. vanilla essence. process.--boil the sugar, glucose and water in the ordinary way to the strong feather 245, then pour on damp slab, let it remain until nearly cold, add the flavor, and with pallette knife work up the boil till white and creamy; shape it with the hands or press into tin moulds; stand it in a warm place to harden a little on the outside. melt some chocolate paste and cover the goods smoothly with it, using either knife or brush; when dry glaze them by brushing on a solution of shellac dissolved in alcohol. n.b.--in this recipe the sugar is boiled higher than the "cream for chocolate cream," because the goods are so large the soft cream would not keep in shape. in melting pure chocolate simply put it in a tin together with a piece of lard or cocoa butter, stand it near the fire, give it an occasional stir; it will soon dissolve; use no water or it will run to powder and be spoiled. taffy pans. per dozen, $1.25, $1.50, $1.75, $2. swinging pans. we make any size to order. crystalizing pans and wire trays. extra quality. 14 × 10 × 2-1/2, complete $5.50. copper candy ladle. no. 1, fig. 7, price, $1.50. [illustration: fig. 7.] [illustration: fig. 8.] chocolate cream bars no. 1. 10 lbs. white sugar. 2-1/2 lbs. glucose. melted chocolate. 3 pints water. vanilla flavor. process.--prepare the cream as directed in cream for chocolate cream, or use some of that cream. have some tins with edges one and one-half inches deep; grease some paper and fit it neatly round the sides and bottom. melt some of the cream on a slow fire; flavor with vanilla as soon as cream is sufficiently melted; remove the pan and pour contents into the tins to make a sheet about one inch thick or less. when set carefully empty, so as not to break the cake; have some melted chocolate and with a soft brush coat the cream on both sides; lay them on wires till cold and set; cut up into bars the required size. the knife for cutting bars of cream should be good, having a thin polished blade with a good edge. an old worn-out thing breaks the cream and makes it irregular. [illustration: copper candy drop ladle. no. 2, fig. 8, price, $2.25. mint droppers. made from copper. no. 1 dropper, 1 lip, $2 25. " 2 " 2 " 3 25. " 3 " 3 " 3 75. ] chocolate cream bars no. 2. 10 lbs. white sugar. 2-1/2 lbs. glucose. melted chocolate. 3 pints water. 1/2 oz. essence vanilla. process.--prepare the tins by lining with greased paper, fitting them smoothly; melt some sweet chocolate paste and pour it about a quarter of an inch thick on the bottom of the tins; when set prepare some cream as directed for "cream for chocolate cream," or use some of that cream, melting it over a slow fire (do not allow it to boil); stir in the extract of vanilla and pour the batch in tins about one inch deep: when set, coat on top with melted sweet chocolate; when this lot is cold and quite set, cut up into bars with a sharp knife. [illustration: batch pans. made of heavy copper with sheet iron rim to allow them to set in furnace. no. 1, diam. at rims 12 inch, bottom 11 in., $7 50. no 2, diam. at rims 13 inch, bottom 12 in., $8 50. ] chocolate drops, plain. warm some sweet chocolate; when it is just sufficiently heated to be pliable, pinch off little pieces, roll them in the hands to size of a small marble; place them in rows on sheets of white paper, each row about an inch apart; when the sheet is covered, take it by the corners and lift it up and down, letting it touch the slab each time; this will flatten the balls into drop shapes; they should be about the size of a ten cent piece on the bottom; when cold they will slip off the paper without any trouble. [illustration: toy (or turned sugar) pans. made of copper. no. 1, 1/2 gallon, $3 00 " 2, 1 " 4 00 " 3, 1-1/2 " 5 00 ] chocolate drops (nonpareil.) process exactly as for plain drops. when the drops have been flattened, cover the sheets of paper entirely over with white nonpareil (hundreds and thousands); when the drops are dry shake off the surplus ones. chocolate creams. melt some cream (see "cream for chocolate cream") use the runner and fill the moulds; in an hour the cream will be set hard enough to be taken out of the moulds; they are then ready for coating. warm some sweet chocolate paste until melted, then drop the creams into the melted chocolate, two or three at a time; lift them out with a long fork and place them on glazed paper or sheets of tin to dry; put them in a cool place to harden; pack carefully in paper lined boxes in such a manner that they hardly touch each other; if packed roughly like most other candies, they become spotted and rough, spoiling the appearance altogether. rubber moulds are now largely used for making these goods; being much cleaner and very much easier used than starch moulds, and for new beginners are very much better than starch. these moulds are now to be bought much cheaper than they were a few years ago, the price now being about $1.40 per lb. these moulds weigh about two pounds each and hold ninety chocolate drops and can be refilled every half hour. we would strongly advise the purchase of rubber moulds, as besides the saving of time, neither starch boards, starch, plaster moulds or bellows are required. fletcher manfg co., carry a full line of moulds for chocolates and creams. chocolate for dipping. this mixing is so often required by confectioners for so many purposes that a good general recipe will not be out of place. if the instructions are followed and a little discretion used with the colors, a light glossy chocolate coating will be the result. 1 lb. pure chocolate. 3 oz. white wax. chocolate brown color. cochineal. process.--put the chocolate in a saucepan; stand on the furnace plate or near a fire; break up the wax into little pieces and stir it in until all is melted; then add the brown color, with a little liquid cochineal, stirring the whole until thoroughly mixed; it is then ready for use. for cheap common goods, more wax may be used. when mixing in the color try a little on a piece of white paper until satisfied with the blend. gelatine cocoanut bars (yellow). 8 lbs. white sugar. 6 lbs. glucose. 2-1/2 lbs. gelatine. 3 lbs. cocoanut sliced. 1 oz. acid tartaric. 3 pints water. saffron color. lemon flavor. process.--soak the gelatine in cold water for twelve hours, boil the sugar, glucose and water to a stiff ball, 255; remove the pan from the fire; stir in the gelatine till dissolved; let it stand for a few minutes and remove the scum from the top, then add the acid, flavor and cocoanut; gently stir the whole until well mixed; tinge a bright yellow with saffron; pour into oiled tins, making the sheet 1/2 inch thick; when set, cut up in sticks to sell two or four for a cent. n.b.--this boil may be divided into two lots, one half colored red and flavored, raspberry, or a second boil may be made precisely as this one altering the color and flavor only. patent rubber candy moulds new patterns. the best process in the world for making moulded bon-bons or french creams and grained work, is by using patent rubber candy moulds. they will entirely supplant the use of starch as a mould for manufacturing such candies for the following reasons. i.--not alone can all the patterns at present made in starch be reproduced in these moulds but also a large variety of others with a perfection not before known, and which it would be impossible to use in starch. ii.--a much superior quality of goods is produced, in as much as the candies show as perfect a pattern as the moulds themselves. iii.--a saving at least 33 per cent is accomplished in labor. iv.--no starch boards or starch is required, consequently the filling, printing, sifting and blowing off are dispensed with--six items of expense. v.--the moulds specially facilitate the making of cream walnuts, cream almonds and cream jellies and other combinations, because the nuts, etc., can be pressed on the candy as soon as it has been poured into the moulds. this cannot be done with starch moulds, as any pressure on those will destroy the pattern. vi.--casting into starch moulds requires considerable experience and skill in order to do work well, while any workman can turn out the most perfect work with the rubber moulds, without any previous experience in such work. vii.--a saving of room is effected, as a starch room is not required and the capacity of the rubber moulds is so much greater than starch boards of equal size that a comparatively less number of moulds are required to produce an equal quantity of goods. viii.--no starch being used, the shop will remain much cleaner. these moulds are made of pure para rubber and will, with proper usage last from twelve to fifteen years, judging from those which have been in use for the past four years. an objection which naturally suggests itself to a person who has never tried these moulds, is that the candies might possibly have some taste of the rubber. this is not the case, however. not the slightest taste of rubber is discernable. not one of our many customers, either in this city or throughout the country, has made a single complaint. this proves that there is absolutely no difference between candies made in rubber moulds and candies made in starch moulds. the demand for these moulds increases every year. write for prices and particulars. cream to be run in these moulds should be cooked one degree lower than usual for starch. crystal 1/2 degree lower than usual for starch. before using new moulds for first time, soak for half an hour in strong common washing soda and water. cheap jelly goods. 14 lbs. white sugar. 12 lbs. glucose. 3 lbs. gelatine. flavor. 2 oz. tartaric acid. 2 pints water. color. process.--soak the gelatine in cold water for twelve hours; bring the sugar, and water to a boil, then add the glucose and continue boiling till it reaches the degree of stiff ball; remove the pan from the fire and stir in the gelatine and acid till dissolved; color and flavor to fancy; remove the scum and run the batch into tins. set the goods aside for twelve hours, then cut up into jubes and crystalize with fine powdered sugar. this is a cheap line; there is not much body in them, but they sell at a price and give satisfaction. [illustration: funnel droppers. tin. copper. no. 0 40 75 " 1 60 1.25 " 2 90 1.50 ] [illustration: candy tongs. tin per thousand, $4.00 brass " 5.50 silvered " 7.00 ] jelly fancies. 12 lbs. sugar. 7 lbs. glucose. 3 pints water. 3 lbs. gelatine. 2 oz. tartaric acid. process.--soak gelatine in cold water for twelve hours. boil the sugar, glucose and water in the usual way to the degree of ball; remove the pan from the fire and stir in the gelatine gradually until dissolved; let it stand for a few minutes; take off the scum as it rises, then divide the boil, if required in more than one, color and flavor each portion to fancy, then run the boil in the moulds; when set put them on clean slab, sprinkle some cold water over them and roll them about until all are damped, then cover them with fine crystal sugar and mix them up till crystalized all over, and spread them out on trays to dry. the different recipes already given will give the reader a general idea how gelatine goods are made. by using different colors, flavors and shapes an infinite variety can be produced. it would serve no good purpose to further multiply these formulas for small goods. jam roley poley. 10 lbs. white sugar. 5 lbs. glucose. 2 lbs gelatine. carmine color. 1 lb. raspberry jam. 1 lb. desiccated cocoanut. 3 pints water. process.--soak the gelatine in cold water for twelve hours; boil the sugar, glucose and water sharply to stiff ball; remove the pan from the fire, stir in the gelatine, stand aside till scum rises and skim it off; divide the boil into two portions, (mix together 1 oz. tartaric acid, 1 oz. carbonate of soda, 2 oz. icing sugar); drop this powder and the desiccated cocoanut into one half of the boil and stir briskly until the whole rises in a white foam, then run out into tins, on sheet about 1/4 inch thick; now take the other half, color bright red, adding the raspberry jam; stir till thoroughly mixed and run this on top of the white sheet about the same thickness; when cold and hard, take out the sheets and make a roll of each. n.b.--let the red portion be cool when run over the white, as the white being lighter will come to the top if disturbed by the mixture being too hot. raspberry jellies. 9 lbs. white sugar. 6 lbs. glucose. 2 lbs. apple jelly. 2-1/4 lbs. gelatine. 3 pints water. 2 oz. tartaric acid. 1/2 oz. essence raspberry. carmine color. process.--soak the gelatine as usual; boil the sugar, glucose and water to a stiff ball; remove the pan from the fire; stir in the gelatine and let it remain till scum rises; skim it off, then add jelly, acid and flavor and sufficient color to make a bright red: now mould the batch into raspberry shapes and put them in a cold place. when set stiff, put the goods in thin layers in a crystalizing tin and cover them with cold syrup. let them remain undisturbed for twelve hours, then drain off all the surplus syrup and turn the raspberries on clean trays; when dry, pack. n.b.--when putting jelly goods in tins, be careful that the layers are not thick, as they lay so close that the syrup cannot get in between them. a good plan is to have wire trays and fix three or four loosely in each tin, taking their bearings on the ends of the crystalizing tin. by this means you will get more in a tin with better result. boil the syrup in the proportion of six pounds best white sugar to each quart water, to the degree of smooth 215. it must be quite cold when used for gelatine work or the goods will come out of the tins in a solid block. black currant jellies. 9 lbs. white sugar. 6 lbs. glucose. 2-1/4 lbs. gelatine. purple coloring. 3 pints water. 2 oz. tartaric acid. 2 lbs. black currant jelly. process.--soak gelatine as usual, smooth off and mould fondant shapes. boil the sugar, glucose and water, as already directed, to a stiff ball; remove the pan from the fire, drop in the gelatine, a few pieces at a time, stir till dissolved. let it remain a short time till the scum rises; skim it off, then stir in the tartaric acid, jelly and sufficient color to make the mixture a bright color, then mould the batch. when the goods are firmly set, place them in layers on wire frames fitted for crystalizing pan; arrange the frames in the tins and cover with cold syrup; let them stand for twelve or fourteen hours undisturbed, then drain off the surplus syrup; take them carefully out of the tins, pack them on clean trays; when dry they are ready for boxing. these goods require handling gently; they are very delicate and easily crushed. [illustration: daisy peanut warmer. the most complete peanut warmer in the market. the nuts are kept warm by a water jacket which surrounds the pan, and is heated by a gas or oil stove as desired, has steam whistle which attracts attention. strongly made and nicely ornamented and lettered. price complete with either gas or oil stove, f.o.b. toronto, $10 00. size, 29 in. high, 18 in. wide, 12 in. deep. state when ordering if for oil or gas stove.] pineapple jellies. 8 lbs. white sugar. 8 lbs. glucose. 2-1/4 lbs. gelatine. pineapple flavor. 3 oz. tartaric acid. 3 pints water. saffron color. process.--soak the gelatine in sufficient cold water to cover it. boil the sugar, glucose and water as usual to stiff ball and remove the pan from the fire; stir in the gelatine, wait till scum rises and remove it; then add the acid, flavor and sufficient color to make bright yellow; pour the mixing into pineapple moulds; keep them in a cold place till set; pack them in layers in wire frames; put them in the crystalizing tins and cover with cold syrup; stand aside where they will not be shaken or disturbed for twelve or fourteen hours; then draw off the surplus syrup and put them in clean trays to dry. in flavoring these goods, use the pineapple gently, only a few drops, too much spoils them. [illustration: fig. 213 a. "daisy" peanut roaster. price, $5 00 we make this to fit ordinary cook stoves if so ordered at same price. this roaster fits your candy furnace.] [illustration: fletcher's "uncle sam" dry air peanut warmer. japanned and ornamented glass front. size--1 foot 7 in. × 1 foot 5 in., 1 foot 10 in. high. price complete $6 50] [illustration: kingery's perfection steam power coffee and peanut roaster and warmer. size and style of machine we carry in stock marked thus* with steam whistle. 1 peck size, tin warmer $100 00 $104 00 *1 peck size, copper warmer 108 00 112 00 2 peck size, tin warmer 115 00 119 00 2 peck size, copper warmer 124 00 128 00 1 bushel size, tin warmer 135 00 139 00 1 bushel size, copper warmer 148 00 152 00 ] best way to crystalize gum goods. 13 lbs. best white sugar. 2 quarts water. process.--have the goods cleaned and put in crystalizing tins; bring the above quantity of sugar and water just to the boil and stand aside until only milk warm; then pour it gently over the goods until covered; then slip the hands into the middle of the goods, and with the fingers just ease this bulk so that the syrup will flow freely between them; withdraw the hands carefully and cover the tin; do not again disturb it for the next twelve hours, when the goods will be ready to drain and dry. to an experienced man, this method may seem a little dangerous and likely to spoil the crystal; but it will not do so if done carefully. of course, it is understood the goods are not to be roughly stirred up, but simply loosened. concentrated flower and essence flavors for confectioners. especially adapted for finest work. essence maraschino. " pistachio. " ratafia. " lilly of the valley. " dainty. " french rose. " ylang ylang. " patchouli. " tuberose. " carnation. " heliotrope. " crabapple. " jasmine. " millifleurs. " hyacinth. " cachou. " bon-tons. " mirabells. " sweet briar. " locust flower. " lilac blossoms. " fleur de raisin. " apple blossom. " violet (true). " wood violet. " orange blossom. " hawthorne. " wild olive. " musk. flavoring extracts. extract currant. " jamaica ginger. " gooseberry. " grape. " lemon. " mead. " nectar. " orris. " cinnamon. " quince. " rose. " strawberry. " anisette. " apple. " apricot. " banana. " bitter almonds. " blackberry. " catawba. " cherry. " plum. " raspberry. " sarsaparilla. " wintergreen. essential oils. best qualities. our essential oils will be found equal to anything obtainable. write us for prices on anything you require. we cater especially to the candy makers and confectioners. fletcher mnf'g. co. 440 & 442 yonge street, toronto, ont. fletcher mnf'g. co. _importers and dealers in_ confectioners colors, flavoring extracts, concentrated fruit oils, flower essences, fine essential oils, soluble extracts, etc., for bakers and confectioners. pure fruit juices prepared by newly discovered process, keep any length of time corked or uncorked in any temperature. fletcher mnf'g co. 440 & 442 yonge st, toronto. pure malt extract. largely used by bakers to prevent bread from becoming dry, and to give it a sweet and nutty flavor. it ensures shorter and sounder fermentation. bread made with it is easily digested, makes larger loaves, golden tinged crust, general satisfaction to the consumer and profit to the baker. agents, fletcher mnf'g. co. 440 & 442 yonge st, toronto. fletcher mnf'g. co. toronto canadian agents for the celebrated xxxx brand of glucose guaranteed equal, if not superior, to any on the market. its uniform high quality, good color and great specific gravity, has created for it such a reputation that orders could not be filled, this season, as fast as required; is now largely used by the best wholesale and retail confectioners of canada. with our repeat orders we have some very flattering testimonials as to its high quality. our prices are right. the goods when once tried need no other recommendation. sold in barrels, half, quarters and pails. samples and prices on application. fletcher mnf'g. co. toronto. our leading specialty is the manufacture of soda fountains and apparatus. we make both counter and wall fountains. we make liberal allowances for old apparatus. easy terms of payment. [illustration: the polar "d." fig. 260 a. fletcher mnf'g. co. 440 & 442 yonge st., toronto. our polar. d. soda fountain with our new pneumatic syrup jar.] transcriber's note misspelled words have been corrected. punctuation in this book is somewhat erratic; in general, this has not been altered from the original. however, when punctuation clearly follows a specific pattern, punctuation has been standardized. in the recipe for acid drops and tablets, the original wording says to "add the acid which has been finally powdered." since this seems like a typo, it has been changed to "finely powdered." in the table of composition clear toy moulds, the ones digit of the "no. per lb." is unreadable for items 34 (harp), 35 (fireman), and 46 (scissors). the numbers listed in that column for those items are guesses. in the recipe for tar cough drops, the tar referred to is probably pine tar. images generously made available by the internet archive/american libraries.) [illustration] [illustration: _see description on page xi_] candy-making revolutionized _confectionery from vegetables_ by mary elizabeth hall _illustrated_ new york sturgis & walton company 1912 _all rights reserved_ copyright, 1912, by perry mason company copyright, 1912, by sturgis & walton company set up and electrotyped. published, december, 1912 to one elizabeth, and all elizabeths who love pure candy and its making contents chapter page introduction i preface vi section i i for the novice 3 ii for the candy-maker's table 8 iii thermometer 19 iv use of steam 24 v crystallization 27 vi chocolate coating 33 vii sugar 41 section ii viii decorative candies i from potato paste 52 green leaves 56 ii violets pop-corn violets 57 cocoanut violets 58 violet boutonniere 59 iii from potato fondant uncooked fondant 61 cooked potato fondant 62 modeled candy 62 coloring 64 white daisy 66 yellow daisy 69 calla lily 69 red apples 70 single roses 72 rose buds 74 new potato 75 pea-pod 76 snow ball 76 grapes 79 other possibilities 79 ix potato caramel potato caramel no. 1 81 potato caramel no. 2 82 potato caramel no. 3 82 opera caramel 83 x potato--miscellaneous mocha walnuts 84 pecan creams 85 raisin creams 85 peppermint chocolates 86 celtic almonds 86 chocolate bars 87 vegetable cream 88 xi sweet potato sweet potato patties 90 sweet potato knots 91 sweet potato pastilles 93 xii parsnip candied parsnips 93 parsnip boutonniere 95 xiii carrot carrot rings 97 crystallized carrot 98 carrot roll 98 "gingers" 99 garden "ginger" 99 variations 101 xiv bean candied green beans 102 bean taffy 103 nut bean taffy 104 xv beet frosted beet slice 105 beet puffs 106 beet cubes with variations 107 crystallized beets 108 spiced beets 109 spiced beet bon-bons 109 xvi tomato tomato marshmallow 110 chocolate marshmallow 112 vegetable nougatine 112 chocolate nougatine 114 nut bur 114 xvii cornlette nut cornlettes 118 xviii onion cold tablets 120 xix oriental paste 123 seaweed 124 xx stuffed fruits dates for candy 128 sparkling dates 128 chocolate covered dates 129 date brilliants 129 rhubarb marmalade 129 sugared dates 130 stuffed dates 130 stuffed prunes 130 xxi angelique rings 132 orange rings 133 angelique as a plant 133 preserved green angelique 135 dried angelique 135 xxii for the caterer 136 xxiii for the teacher 142 illustrations vegetable candies frontispiece opposite page fascinating to the child 72 boxed vegetable candies 98 decorative and edible 118 angelica archangelica 132 for the caterer 138 introduction when mary elizabeth hall first brought her discovery to my attention, i thought that it was indeed one that would revolutionize candy-making, both that of the amateur at home and of the manufacturer. and, in the months that have followed, to this belief has been added the conviction that this revolution is one very much worth while. why so simple and obvious a discovery was not made long ago is a mystery to me; perhaps its very simplicity and obviousness is proof of its importance. of cookery, candy-making is a branch which is entitled to more dignity than it ordinarily receives. negatively and positively, the importance of sweets to the child can hardly be over-estimated. if he consumes a quantity of impure confectionery, his digestion will be ruined for life; how much of the confectionery bought is rankly impure it is well for the mother's peace of mind that she does not know! on the other hand, if the child is not given sweets, he is deprived of a food element of the greatest value to his development. and for the adult, the value of pure candy is too obvious to warrant comment. vegetable candy, to my mind, is ideal confectionery. of its purity, there can be no doubt. moreover, it furnishes the valuable element of sugar so combined with nutritious vegetable bases that, because of the bulk, there is no temptation to overeat. this quality of the new confection would seem insurance against the evil effects of gluttony! before an undue amount of sugar is consumed, the very mass of the vegetable base has satisfied the appetite. many sorts of vegetable candy have unusual keeping qualities; indeed, some kinds will retain their flavor and moisture for as long as a year. it is significant to note that almost all non-vegetable confections that can be successfully stored for any length of time contain artificial preservatives; vegetable candy, however, keeps, not because of the addition of alcohol or even benzoate of soda, but because of the excellence of the processes themselves. notwithstanding its advantages, vegetable candy is no harder to make than is any other good candy. for success in any sort of cookery, much hard work is necessary; slipshod methods and intuition can not produce food that is up to standard. of even greater force is this rule when applied to the most delicate brand of cookery--the making of confectionery. miss hall has supplemented her major discovery by several other valuable discoveries--or "adaptations," as she modestly styles them. her use of crystallization, for instance, enables the amateur confectioner to secure results which were previously out of her reach. aside from its virtues from the hygienic, dietetic and practical points of view, the new confectionery has much to commend it. by utilizing the common and cheap vegetables of the home garden, it gives to the girls and women on the farm and in the village an opportunity that previously was not theirs. this discovery means that they can now make the finer sorts of candy, the fashioning of which was formerly out of the question to women who did not have at their command the resources of the specialty stores of the large city--and plenty of money to spend in them. this enlargement of the culinary horizon of these countless women is not without broad significance; the removal of their limitations--petty and otherwise, if you will--is necessary before we shall cease to tremble because they who belong on the farm and in the village refuse to stay there. once banish the discontent of the farm woman, and there is no rural problem of consequence. and vegetable candy-making is not without sociological importance because it is a step--though, perhaps, a very short one, comparatively!--in that direction. more definite, however, is another field for speculation in connection with vegetable candy. it offers to the housewife, house-daughter, and to the teacher a new modeling medium. that from a cheap and easily made base attractive objects may be made--and then eaten--surely is a recommendation of no slight moment. miss hall's discovery has placed within easy reach of persons of moderate means and skill a medium through which really beautiful objects can be made in candy. for the first time, the amateur candy-maker can prove for herself that candy-making is not only an art, but that it is one of the fine arts. warren dunham foster. preface the years of work in candy-making that have made possible this book, i now look back upon with a certain feeling of satisfaction. the satisfaction comes from the knowledge that because of the discovery that is here recorded, the candy of the future will be purer, more wholesome, more nourishing than that of the past has been. even if the processes that are here set forth fail of the widest adoption, i have still the satisfaction of knowing that just so far as they are adopted will there be greater healthfulness of confectionery. another reason for the satisfaction that i feel is my knowledge that my discovery has opened to the home candy-maker a whole new world. previously many of the better sorts of confectionery--particularly of the decorative kinds--were out of her range, either because of the cost of the necessary ingredients or the difficulty of their purchase or handling; particularly under a heavy disadvantage has been the village or country cook who has not had the service rendered by the specialty stores of the great cities. now, however, with the ever present potato substituted for marzipan--hard to obtain at more a pound than potatoes cost a peck!--it is the girl or woman with her own garden who has the advantage. moreover, decorative candies that formerly required more skill than most amateur confectioners possess can now be made by anyone who can model clay or use a cooky cutter. mothers who formerly were all too often required to gratify their children's longing for candies that told a story--candies modeled or otherwise decorative--by giving them boughten confectionery that contained plaster of paris, aniline dyes and other ingredients equally harmful, can now in their own kitchen from nourishing and harmless vegetables fashion sweets that are just as beguiling to childish eyes. nor is this all. children invariably have a craving for sweets that if allowed to run its course is almost sure to lead to indigestion and worse. on the other hand, if this craving is not satisfied, the children will be deprived of a food of the utmost value--a food element, indeed, that it is indispensable. vegetable candy offers an ideal solution of this difficulty. sugar it of course contains, but the vegetable base supplies no small part of the bulk; consequently children may eat their fill of it and satisfy their natural longing for candy without having gorged themselves with sugar. moreover, the vegetable base has virtues that are positive as well as negative; it itself supplies valuable food elements and equally valuable vegetable salts. many colors and flavors are made available by this discovery. the use of beets, for instance, has added to the candy-maker's palette a very attractive new shade. each vegetable contributes at least one new flavor. novel as are candies made from vegetables, they must not be thought faddish. caramels, marshmallows and bon-bons and all the rest are here; tastes that have already won favor are here, and many new ones as well. in places, perhaps, the directions that follow may seem over detailed. invariably, however, i have tried to give information about all the points that would come to the mind of the amateur confectioner. i have tried to tell the _why_ as well as the _what_. moreover, the processes at times may seem, perhaps, a bit over long. it should be noted, however, that vegetable candy-making is no more complicated, if as much so, as is the making of any other confectionery. good candy invariably means effort, and intelligent painstaking effort at that. it has been with the home candy-maker in mind that i have written this book. undoubtedly, however, the discovery will appeal to the professional. i am glad, for the more vegetable candy is made, the less unhealthful confectionery there will be consumed. for the same reason, i hope, too, that women and girls seeking to make profitable their idle hours at home, may embark in a small way in the manufacture and sale of vegetable candy. my thanks are due to _the youth's companion_ for its kind permission to reprint material that first appeared on its girls' page--a department that, together with family page and boys' page, has done much for better living throughout the nation. no doubt i have been garrulous concerning my own discovery, but i trust that the privilege of garrulity will be granted to the woman who has been a pioneer and who, after suffering the hardships that are always the lot of the pioneer, has, as she believes, opened up a whole new world in candy-making and a very good world at that! m. e. h. boston, mass., june 12, 1912. key to frontispiece 1 green leaf 2 violet 3 wild-rose with angelique leaf 4 red star from potato paste 5 jellies--made from green peas 6 carrot ring 7 celtic almond 8 mocha walnut 9 pastille of sweet potato 10 frosted beet slice 11 carrot ring 12 beet leaves 13 daisy--attached to macaroon with a crystal 14 pecan cream 15 angelique ring 16 raisin cream 17 heart from potato paste 18 sweet potato knot 19 triple filled orange rings 20 beet puff 21 nut bur 22 pea-pod 23 cocoanut beet square 24 red apple 25 yellow rose--on small round cake 26 snow ball candy making revolutionized section one i help for the novice almost all of the difficulties of the novice in the art of candy-making come from lack of practice. although it is a difficult branch of cookery, experience in its intricacies will overcome many of the handicaps under which the beginner struggles. it should be carefully noted that these handicaps apply fully as much to the old-fashioned sort of candy-making as to the new. the fundamental processes are often the same. if the beginner in candy-making knows and will follow a few simple rules, the measure of success that greets her efforts will be largely increased. be accurate. if the rule calls for one-quarter teaspoonful of a flavoring extract, measure that amount by a measuring-spoon; do not take up any spoon that happens to be convenient, and pour in what seems to be about the right quantity. more and more cooks are working by rule and not by intuition; but in candy-making the caution against inaccuracy is especially necessary, for the processes are delicate, and subtleties of flavor and of texture are more evident than in more substantial food. the weather is of more moment in candy-making than in plain cooking. do not try to make candy on a muggy day; the results probably will be unsatisfactory. but if forced to disregard this warning, attempt but little, act quickly, and remember that damp weather is the only excuse for the substitution of intuition for rule. just why humidity and low barometric pressure play havoc with the work of the confectioner need not be discussed here. in making confectionery, cleanliness to the point of chemical purity is highly desirable. many successful cooks believe that candy should be made in a pan that has never been used for anything else. that belief, perhaps, may be extreme, but the fact remains that one cannot be too careful in regard to the cleanliness of her utensils. and this necessity for cleanliness holds for any receptacle in which any ingredient is placed. note particularly that heating lard will leave a taint which will spoil the delicacy of flavor of candy made in the same dish. very often it is desirable that liquids remain hot after the actual cooking has been done. the ordinary stove gives too much heat for the purpose, and the confectioner's "working slab"--a device moderately heated by steam--is expensive. a cheap and effective substitute, however, is a humble soapstone. use marbled cloth instead of waxed paper to dry candy upon. then there will be no danger that little particles of the paper adhere to the candy. candied fruit and similar confections, however, should be drained on nickeled wire netting as explained in another chapter. place the netting over a dish, and pour upon it the whole mass of fruit and syrup. by pouring all of it at once, the coating of syrup will be uniform: it will dry evenly, as the air will reach all sides alike. after most of the moisture has evaporated, the fruit will be ready to be rolled in sugar. sprinkle a shallow dish with coarse sugar. roll each piece of fruit in a separate place in the dish, taking care that the sugar is absolutely dry when the fruit is placed in it. if the sugar is damp, it will mat so that the confection is "mussy" to the eye and unpleasant to the palate. moreover, the scales of damp sugar will jar off, leaving a break in the complete covering which is necessary for the preservation of the fruit. one rotting piece will contaminate another, until the whole boxful is unfit for use. if the sugar is properly applied, candied fruit, well packed, will keep for several weeks without injury. pack soft candies in layers separated by waxed papers backed by cardboard. remember that the best-made confections will be unappetizing when presented or served unattractively. in pulling taffies or other candies, corn starch may be put to good use. no definite rules can be given, because the temperature and the humidity of each pair of hands--to put the case euphemistically--are different. each time the material is pulled, the candy-maker should dust her hands as lightly as possible with the corn starch. a moderate amount of it worked into the mass will do no harm, but care must be taken not to use so much that the candy becomes starchy. moreover, a heavy coating of the starch does not protect the hands any more than does a light dusting. while the candy is being pulled, it should be handled as little as possible. let the candy's own weight over the hook do the real work. to avoid "bunchiness," the confectioner must keep the mass moving in uniform thickness--a difficult task, success in which comes only from practice. ii for the candy-maker's table for real success in candy-making the amateur needs a few small utensils similar to those that have long been used by confectioners. the advice which follows can be as well applied to old-fashioned candy making as to the new sort. a copper bon-bon dipper, really nothing more than wire twisted so as to outline a spoon, will be found convenient for any sort of dipping likely to be attempted in the home kitchen. the wire dipper is a much more satisfactory tool than a silver fork, the implement usually recommended for this purpose. get fourteen inches of copper wire--preferably number eighteen--heavy enough to bear a few ounces of weight without bending, but soft enough to be shaped easily by the fingers. a quarter-pound spool should not cost over ten cents. grasp the wire five inches from one end and bend it double at that point. the double strand--which makes the handle--will then be five inches long, and the single four. out of this single strand, beginning half an inch from the end of the doubled strand, form a loop three-quarters of an inch long. twisting the wire round the forefinger or a small empty spool will make the loop. wind the two inches of wire left free about the two parallel strands, carrying it up as far as it will reach. this skeleton spoon is excellent for dipping bon-bons, fruits or nuts. to hold objects of different sizes, the soft copper wire may be bent easily; and in this respect the home-made dippers are better than the nickeled ones on the market. for dipping creams into chocolate, this dipper is probably the best device which is available for the amateur. another help is the so-called rubber mat, useful for modeling wafers and centers. this is nothing more than a sheet of heavy rubber fabric, stamped so that molds are formed. before using, place the mat in cold water, dry, and then pour the fondant into the depressions until they are entirely filled. when the fondant is dry enough to hold its form, the mat is turned upside down, and the wafers and centers easily freed. after being washed in cold water and carefully dried, the mat is ready for use again. [illustration: rubber mat. fig. 1] the advantage of the mat is that all the candies are of the same size and regular in shape, and that no material is wasted. for the girl who intends to get only one mat, the kind with round molds--"truncated cones," to be accurate--is the best to buy, because it may be used equally well for centers or wafers. see fig. 1 above. the candy-maker who is prepared to spend more for her equipment may well buy several mats, each with molds of different shapes. then she should reserve one shape for each flavoring or mixture, so that she can easily distinguish by sight different kinds of creams after they are made. the mats are sold by weight, generally at the rate of a dollar and a half a pound. the one shown in fig. 1 weighs eighteen ounces. [illustration: dropping funnel. fig. 2] either to fill molds or to drop masses upon slabs or waxed paper in the old way, the candy-maker will find a dropping funnel useful. this is a small tin cornucopia with a long handle. whittle a clean stick so that one end of it will fit into the outlet of the funnel, and plug the hole from above. fill the funnel with the mass to be dropped, and then raise the stick just long enough to allow enough of the mass to run out to fill the mold--or if the old plan is followed, to form a wafer or cream of proper size. see fig. 2, on the preceding page. intelligent operation of the funnel makes the work more rapid and accurate, and the mass holds its heat longer, and is kept better mixed than if poured or spooned from a dish. funnels especially made for this purpose cost from twenty-five cents to one dollar; but any tinsmith can easily make one out of an eight-inch piece of heavy tin, shaped so as to form a cornucopia, with the smaller opening not more than three-eighths of an inch in diameter, and attached to a handle at least twelve inches long. for heating mixtures, white enamel dishes are preferable to tin or aluminum. for mixing, wooden spoons are better than metal ones, because the mass which is being stirred does not stick so readily. wooden paddles are often better yet, for their flat surfaces do not retain masses so tenaciously. perhaps the most useful tool of all is a nameless instrument which does duty for both knife and spoon, and in addition has virtues all its own. it is particularly valuable for reaching the corners of pans. this tool is not on the general market, but can be made by most metal-workers--either tinsmiths or blacksmiths. a piece of spring steel, about ten inches long, rounded at the end, and curved as shown in fig. 3, is riveted into a wooden handle. heavy tin may be substituted for the steel, if desired. [illustration: special knife. fig. 3] a molasses-candy or taffy pull without a hook may be good fun, but it is hard on the candy as well as on the hands. a blacksmith can easily make the hook of round iron, about a half-inch in diameter and eighteen or twenty inches long. the rod should be bent until it forms roughly a letter j, with the tip about seven inches from the horizontal line. the top--the upper part of the horizontal line of the j--should be pounded flat, and two holes bored for screws. be sure to attach the hook to the wall firmly, and about level with the shoulders. hooks may be purchased for about fifty cents apiece, but those made by the blacksmith will do as well. even with the hook, it is well to wear canvas gloves, so that the mass can be handled hotter, and in a more hygienic fashion than with bare hands. canvas gloves are easily laundered--something which cannot be said of the expensive buckskin gloves recommended for this purpose. for use in "cutting in" fondant and other small masses it is well to buy a four inch wall paper knife--a tool which can be bought for from ten to twenty-five cents. fondant should never be beaten, but instead it should be "cut in." this process is scraping up the whole mass, folding it over and cutting through with the knife. this motion is repeated, from each side of the pan, until the fondant becomes a ball which can be kneaded by the hand. procure smooth iron bars, two fifteen inches long and two eighteen inches long, all three-eighths of an inch thick and two inches wide. any blacksmith shop can furnish them at slight expense, or they may be purchased more cheaply from the confectioner's supply stores. the bars are to be placed--set on edge--in the form of a rectangle on a marble slab. be sure that the bars are carefully smoothed, for otherwise they will be untidy and soon rust. by lapping the edges and moving the bars back and forth, a receptacle of any size desired can be made. after buttering slab and bars, pour the candy into the enclosure. when it has cooled, remove the bars, and with one sharp incision cut the candy clear across. use a sharp knife of uniform thickness and width, preferably with a thin blade. it is also convenient to have two bars six inches long. they are useful in dividing a batch when different flavors or colors are used. the partitions will be useful for dividing the filling from the outside layers when a three-storied candy is to be made. the need for these bars comes from the fact that one should never cut candy in a pan. the attempt to do so will always result in pieces with crumbling edges, as the knife has to be dragged through the candy instead of cutting down sharply, and as the sides of the pan allow no room for the expansion which the width of the knife will cause. moreover, there is always waste in the corners and at the sides. the candy-maker should appreciate the palette knife. the flexibility of the blade is such that it can be put to many uses for which the ordinary knife is unfitted. for instance, with a palette knife it is possible to coax refractory substances from the corners and edges of pans. because of this flexibility, it is particularly useful in lifting modeled forms from a flat surface, as is explained in chapter viii. to the confectioner, one of the most useful tools is a modeling stick. this small tool is of great value to the candy-maker. it can be grasped easily and its shape allows of its use at many angles that would be inconvenient or impossible for a less adaptable tool. the roundness of the blunt end serves many purposes; the straighter side is particularly useful for smoothing off work, and the inside curves lend themselves to a great number of processes. wire screens, often known as "wire baking forms," are very useful for drying candies that have been sugared or for draining confections that need to be exposed to the air. those that are oblong in shape are much more convenient than the round ones. the wires forming the screens cross at distances of about one-sixteenth of an inch, making really a coarse sieve. the sides extend up about one-half inch. the screens make excellently ventilated trays, but for candies that come from an ordinary crystal the mesh is too fine to allow proper draining. should the crystal be very thin, however, the screen can be used for draining, provided the pieces are well separated and placed only one layer deep. wire racks for the drying of candy are among the necessary equipment of the candy-maker. these may be had in varying degrees of fineness, the wires forming squares of from three-eighths to three-quarters of an inch. squares of one-half inch and under give the best support for confections, however, and allow ample room for draining. if the candies are small or soft the large squares give insufficient support. the racks are without sides, the edges being formed either by a heavy wire or a metal binding. the supports are made by wires bent down at the ends and at the center. these racks are the same as the "cake coolers" of ordinary cookery. another method of drying particularly useful for models and cream centers is a bed of corn starch. do not use this plan with any confection the surface of which is wet from the application of pastes. as the basis for this process buy two or three packages of a cheap grade of corn starch. the corn starch can be kept ready for use by occasionally drying it out and sifting it. spread the corn starch in a large shallow pan or tray thick enough to hold the weight of your candy. this gives a non-resisting surface which keeps the models in form and when dry the corn starch will easily brush off. by all odds the most valuable tool for the confectioner, amateur or professional, is the candy thermometer. its use is so important that the following chapter is devoted to a discussion of it. iii the candy thermometer for real success in candy-making, the home confectioner needs a candy thermometer. as is emphasized throughout the volume, accuracy is of the greatest importance in candy-making. cooking must stop at just the right moment, or the candy is either harmed or actually spoiled. until the last few years, for the amateur, the only tests to determine the completion of cooking have been known as "thread," "soft ball," "hard ball," "crack" and "hard crack." while the candy-maker has been struggling with these unsatisfactory tests, the candy has kept on cooking, perhaps until it has reached the next stage of temperature, changed texture, and so become unfit for the use for which it was intended. the professional confectioner has long been able, by the use of a thermometer, to determine just how hot his candy was and to remove it from the heat at exactly the right moment. his thermometer, however, was not only too expensive for the amateur, but also too long to be used except in a large vat. there are now on the market, however, thermometers that the amateur confectioner or small manufacturer can use to advantage. even when hardware dealers do not keep the thermometers in stock, they can--and will--order them from their jobbers. the instruments, of which there are several makes, are about nine inches long, and sell for from one dollar to two dollars and fifty cents. most of these instruments register from about eighty degrees to three hundred and eighty degrees fahrenheit, although the range which interests candy-makers most is only from two hundred degrees to three hundred and twenty degrees. there are a few facts which the girl confectioner who uses a thermometer should keep in mind. buy a thermometer which is guaranteed by its maker. see that the markings are so well defined that they can be read easily. before use, the thermometer must be regulated to conform to the local altitude. place the thermometer in a kettle of water, heat, and let it boil for ten minutes. if the mercury marks two hundred and twelve degrees, the thermometer is correct as it is, but if there is a variation of two degrees or more, allowance must be made. if water boils at two hundred and ten degrees, two degrees must be subtracted every time the thermometer is read. then "soft ball" means two hundred and thirty-six degrees, not two hundred and thirty-eight degrees, as it would had the water boiled at the normal two hundred and twelve degrees, or two hundred and forty degrees, as it would had the water boiled at two hundred and fourteen degrees. do not think that a variation of even two degrees is too slight to count; absolute accuracy is essential. for safety in transit, manufacturers often pinch together the case of the instrument so that the scale-piece can not work loose and become broken. a very little tinkering with the copper jacket, however, will be sufficient to free the scale-piece. this must be done, not only so that the thermometer can be cleaned readily, but so that, when the mixture to be tested is shallow, the dial can be pushed out in order that the bulb can be covered by the hot mass. unless the bulb is covered, the thermometer will not register correctly. allow the thermometer to become hot gradually; do not thrust a cold instrument into boiling water. do not remove the thermometer to read it, as it quickly changes. read it with the eye on the level. remember that mixtures which require stirring must be stirred below the thermometer as well as elsewhere. be sure that the thermometer is clean. each time after it has been used push the dial out of the copper case and wash both thoroughly. do not neglect the back of the piece of metal to which the tube is attached. be particularly careful after mixtures which contain milk or cream. this removable scale is a great convenience. the amateur candy-maker will be glad to know that sugar and water will not burn until all the moisture is evaporated, and that does not happen until three hundred and fifty degrees is reached. if, however, she is making an unusually small quantity, and the thermometer begins to climb above three hundred degrees--beware! the large quantity, however, will take care of itself because of the moisture it contains. below is a table which will enable one to interpret the old stages in terms of degrees. fortunately most candy thermometers have this information stamped upon their dials. 310â°--hard cracked 290â°--cracked 254â°--hard ball 238â°--soft ball 230â°--thread in the following pages it is assumed that the cook has a thermometer. if she has not, the degrees given may be translated into the old stages and the old tests used. thus, if the directions read "cook to two hundred and thirty-eight degrees," the confectioner who has no thermometer will stop the cooking when a portion of the mass will "form a 'soft ball' in cold water." if the directions read two hundred and thirty-six degrees, the "soft ball" must be softer; if two hundred and forty degrees, the "soft ball" not so soft. thus, without the thermometer, the thermometer readings form a scale which makes easier the application of the old tests. be it noted that the thermometer is no more necessary in vegetable candy-making than in the traditional sort. iv the use of steam in candy-making. steam may be used so that it will be of much help to amateur candy-makers, few of whom realize its possibilities. these possibilities, which range from actual cooking to the maintenance of the minimum of heat, may all be grouped under four processes. first, to steam: steaming is cooking by moist heat but not immersing the material in the water as in the boiling process. it should be followed to soften dried fruits or other ingredients, as often required by candy receipts. the best way is to place the materials upon a rack supported a couple of inches above the water in the cooking vessel, covering it tightly and placing it on the fire. the confined vapor will soon soften whatever is within the vessel. second, the double boiler: the double boiler is of particular value when protective cooking is desired. this method will hold all juices present but neither adds moisture nor dries out existing moisture as happens when the mixture is over a direct blaze. in this way, the materials can be heated without burning. it is of particular value with materials that need heat but need no further moisture--simply the development of that moisture which they already have. third, a modification of the use of the double boiler by leaving off the cover: thus the temperature is lowered and the actual cooking operation lengthened. vapors that may arise from the cooking mass are allowed to escape instead of being absorbed. fourth, the steam bath: the steam bath is obtained by placing the receptacle containing the mass over a smaller vessel containing boiling water. in this way, the steam is applied only to the bottom of the receptacle and its intensity may be varied. the lowest possible heat may be applied; temperatures far below the boiling point, or even the cooking point, are made possible. the temperature of the upper dish is regulated by the distance from the direct heat of vessel containing the water. always start with boiling water so that the material treated will be affected only by the heat of the steam and not the direct heat which is bringing the water to the boiling point. this method is particularly valuable for keeping fondant and other masses moderately hot for dipping, or for melting chocolate or bon-bon creams, which should be melted at less than one hundred degrees. v crystallization one often wonders why the candy-eating public has the chocolate habit. the answer is simple. the manufacturer generally offers the public chocolates. to one not conversant with candy-making, it is not so easy, however, to explain why the candy-maker offers the chocolates largely to the exclusion of other confections. to the initiated, however, the matter is simple indeed. chocolate makes an air-tight covering that protects all sides alike. it makes it possible to keep candy not intended for immediate consumption and to ship it from one place to another without injury. without it, the manufacturer would be in a bad way indeed. the confectioner, then, has fostered the chocolate habit because it is useful to him. crystallization enables the candy-cook to put ordinary cream and sugar mixtures into good society dress and make them a pleasure to the people who are not devoted to chocolate. although the crystal coated confection may not stand some of the harder tests that the chocolate coated candy will withstand, it will be found sufficiently reliable to mark a very great advance in candy-making, particularly in home candy-making. and after all, the basic mixtures in home-made candy are not so very different from those in the candy of the professional manufacturer. the home candy-cook, the small maker and the professional manufacturer, who is, of course, far better equipped for crystallizing than either of the others, can, after a careful study of the different degrees of sugar crystallizing, make almost any candy as satisfactory in texture and appearance, and as easy to handle, as are the chocolate confections. a sufficient number of dippings in the crystal accomplishes the result. "one part water and three parts sugar," is the slogan of the crystallizer. this is the composition of any crystal syrup. although crystal syrups differ only in the temperature to which they are raised, their foundation is invariable. as long as the proportions are kept the same, the quantities do not matter much--theoretically. practically, however, one cupful of sugar and one-third of a cupful of water is about as much as can be handled effectively at one time. the success of the process lies in repeated dippings. with each immersion, the confection takes to itself a little more syrup; it thus acquires a heavier coating of the protective covering. the actual process is very simple. each piece is separately dropped into the syrup and, after thorough immersion, is lifted out with a wire dipper, the surplus syrup allowed to run off, and placed for drying upon a wire screen. in the pages that follow, frequent use is made of crystallization. in each case, the degree to which the syrup is to be heated is given. it must be understood, be it noted, that this simple crystal dipping does not make the candy; it merely adds a protective and beautifying covering. the candy, already complete in a way, is dipped into the mixture of sugar and water. in the process that follows, however, the crystallization is of a different and more fundamental sort. in this second case, the crystallization is the method of making the candy completely. for small candies, a novel modification of french hand crystallization is useful because the process can be put to good use in the many sorts of candy-making. the candy-cook can well afford to make herself master of it. she should know, however, that the process is not so difficult as the description of it would indicate. although the labor must be done on six successive days, the work requires but a very few moments except upon the first day. the result desired is a slow crystallization which thoroughly cooks the base so treated and preserves it perfectly. in addition, the process ensures an appearance attractive to the eye and a flavor equally attractive to the palate. a drying rack and a pan are the only utensils that are necessary. they should be of a size so that the rack will drop about one-half way into the pan and be upheld by the sloping sides. note that the pan must be reserved for crystallization. if it is used for other purposes, it is likely to absorb flavors that will work havoc with the delicate confectionery that is placed within it. make a syrup by boiling one part of water and three parts of granulated sugar for ten minutes. thereupon place in it the base to be treated by this process. that all the pieces may be very thoroughly separated, stir the mass carefully with a wooden paddle; it is absolutely necessary that all the surfaces of all of the mass come into direct contact with the hot syrup. all that is necessary, however, is that each piece be thoroughly immersed in the hot syrup; in a surprisingly short space of time, the little pieces of confectionery will be heated through. have the rack in position in the pan; over it, pour the hot mass--syrup and all. see that the candy is evenly distributed over the rack. immediately place a board over the pan; a molding board will do very well indeed. if a tin cover were used in place of the wooden, the steam would condense and drop back on to the candy instead of being absorbed. after the pan has been left undisturbed for a full day, lift the rack out and pour the syrup into a suitable receptacle, cook to two hundred and twenty degrees and place in it again the candy. take the crystal from the fire. stir carefully, making sure that each piece is thoroughly immersed. place the rack in the pan as directed above, and again pour over it the syrup with the candy in it. note, however, that it is necessary that the wire netting be free from hardened particles of the syrup. cleanliness, almost to the point of chemical purity, is necessary. this process must be repeated four times more, but each time the mass should be cooked two degrees higher--in each case, twenty-four hours must elapse between each treatment. after the last operation, the candy should be allowed to dry on the racks. the result will be found well worth the time expended. vi chocolate coating the ability to handle chocolate successfully is a great assistance to the maker of vegetable candy. although chocolate coating is no more an essential in vegetable candy-making than in the old fashioned kind, there are very many times when the ability to use it effectively will be very useful to the confectioner. in either sort of candy-making, it is but a finish--as acceptable a finish to the one as to the other. many people like the flavor of chocolate, and it is extremely serviceable because it furnishes a uniform covering for confections. thus, when chocolate coated candies rub against one another in the box in which they are packed, their uniformity prevents their taking to themselves strange flavors and colors. no candy-maker should scorn to make herself master of the intricacies of chocolate coating. the best instructor in chocolate coating is a few pounds of chocolate, firm, well-shaped centers, an allowance of time and interest, plenty of good common sense and inclination to profit by the hints given below. with the knowledge that will be accumulated after a few trials, the candy-maker will soon be able to give to her candy the niceties of the professional product. the confectioner can well begin with nuts, or some other hard centers, for they are comparatively easy to handle. by handling them, she will soon gain the experience necessary to the successful finishing of other textures. from surprisingly little experimentation, she will obtain sufficient skill to handle successfully almost any center that will take the covering. a thorough general knowledge of the behavior of chocolate and a clear understanding of the behavior of the stock on hand are of more value than the methods of application of the coating. since no two lots of chocolate are exactly the same, it is well to buy a fairly large supply at one time. in this way it is possible when handling the first batch to learn the peculiarities of all the chocolate purchased and thereafter to handle the stock with assurance. for good results it is well to buy the regular "coating chocolate" which is sold by many grocery and specialty stores for just this purpose. if coating chocolate cannot be obtained, ordinary baking chocolate sweetened with confectioner's sugar can be substituted, but the substitution is to be avoided, for the finished work is sure to be inferior. in all sorts of candy-making, climatic conditions are of the utmost importance. in no other branch of cooking is the cook so dependent upon the weather. in muggy weather it is impossible to do good work; often, indeed, it is impossible to do any work at all. therefore, it is of the utmost importance that the confectioner yield respectful obedience to the humidity. this warning is of particular weight in connection with the handling of chocolate. even if the day is only slightly rainy, or foggy, do not try to use chocolate. even experts do not defy this law, but since they work under commercial conditions, they are generally able absolutely to control the atmosphere. the room in which the actual operation of coating is conducted should be warm and dry. first, break into small pieces more chocolate than you will actually use in the coating. put these lumps in a dish set over hot water and melt them slowly at a low temperature. to do this most effectually the water should previously have been boiled and the steam allowed to subside. of course, the water must be very hot when the dish with the chocolate is placed over it. as the first piece melts, stir slowly from time to time. when the chocolate has melted, remove the dish from the heat and work all of the oil globules from the mass. this is accomplished not by hard or rapid motion, but by perseveringly and persuasively smoothing the mass until it is sufficiently cool. these oil globules, be it noted, must be treated with the greatest respect. if they become over heated, they are likely to require much more work, even if they do not ruin the batch. in studying this melting process, it is well to think of the action of heat upon butter. suppose, for illustration, it is desired to cream a lump of cold butter. if much heat is applied to the butter the outside immediately becomes running grease. it is possible that the cooler inside portion of the lump may be beaten into it, but the result will not be smooth. on the other hand, if the butter is allowed to soften gradually under the influence of moderate warmth, the whole mass would melt uniformly and could be beaten into the desired smoothness. the warning that water must not be allowed accidentally to enter the chocolate cannot be too often repeated. probably this is the surest test as to whether or not the chocolate is ready for the dipping: drop a center into the mass so that it will be covered with the chocolate, remove the surplus either by pulling it over the edge of the dish, or by shaking, and let the drop fall squarely upon the sheet of special confectioner's glazed paper, or of oilcloth, or oiled paper, upon which it is to be cooled. take care lest the piece slips when dropped. if it does slip, the base will have a thin projection that may break off and, even if it does not render the coating pervious, become unsightly. if the candy-maker is careful and the coating has been worked sufficiently and has been allowed to become sufficiently cool, the base will form squarely and evenly and the chocolate immediately will become firm. in other words, the candies should begin to set at once without forming projecting bases as soon as they are dropped upon the sheet upon which they are to dry. although chocolates should be covered in a warm room, they should be cooled as rapidly as possible. as soon as they are finished, they should be placed upon a small tray and removed to a cool place. the small tray is desirable since by its use the candies can be quickly transferred. in summer the tray should be placed in the refrigerator, but should not be allowed to remain for more than five minutes. if the chocolate coated confections are kept upon the ice for longer than that time, they will soon be covered by a sweat that will ruin them. after the coated drops have become cold, the candy-maker should examine them carefully. if the bases have spread, she can assume that the chocolate was not cooled sufficiently or that the surplus was not effectively removed. if the coating is streaked or light colored, she will know that the chocolate was not worked sufficiently, or that the drops did not cool quickly enough after they were coated. if the candy becomes sticky when it is brought into a warm room, the verdict will be that the oil was not properly worked into the mass. in the chapters that follow, there are described many candies that offer desirable combinations with chocolate. in fact, the vegetable flavors are quite as adaptable to chocolate coating as are those that have already won popular attention and favor. occasionally, in the subsequent pages, mention is made of the fact that the confection described may well be covered with chocolate, but more often chocolate coating is not suggested when it is possible. it is assumed, and no doubt safely assumed, that the candy-cook, from her experience in the old-fashioned confectionery, will know what candy can be coated, and what cannot be successfully coated. vii sugar no discussion of candy or candy-making is complete without a statement concerning sugar--its kinds, value and proper use. without doubt sugar is one of the most maligned of foods. it does do damage when eaten at the wrong time or to excess. from this fact springs one of the great advantages of vegetable candy; in it the proportion of sugar to the bulk of the confection is so reduced that the normal craving for sweets is satisfied without the consumption of a quantity of sugar that insures disaster. experimentation long ago showed that sugar is the quickest source of energy in the whole list of available foods. no other food approximates sugar in the ease in which it can be formed into actual body energy. this fact has long been appreciated by athletes. one case in proof was that of two school boys seventeen and nineteen years of age, who had only two hours a day for two months for practice before rowing races in which both were entered. no change was made in their diet except they were permitted to eat as much sugar as they wished, sometimes as much as one-third of a pound a day. one of them, however, did not begin to eat this excess sugar until the third week of his practicing, when he began to show the signs of over training--loss of weight and no desire for either exercise or study. on the third day after beginning the use of the excess sugar these symptoms disappeared, and he became as vigorous as the other. before the time for the race both youths were in the best of physical condition and were victorious over their antagonists who did not believe in the use of sugar. subsequently, observation revealed no bad after effects. similar instances could be indefinitely repeated. the fundamental fact--that sugar gives energy and gives it with great rapidity--has been made use of by army officers, particularly german. it must be remembered, however, that sugar is purely an energy-producing food. it is necessary, then, that there be other foods consumed with it in order to preserve a proper balance. these other foods, be it noted, are present in vegetable candy. the current idea that sugar is fattening is wholly wrong. it is not sugar that is fattening, but too much sugar. only when sugar is consumed in a quantity in excess of that which can be taken care of by the human commissary department, is it transformed into fat and stored as reserved material. the methods of refining sugar have been so perfected within the last few years that it is safe to say that few food substances in commercial use are so near to being chemically pure as granulated sugars of good grade. no less an authority than blythe says, "loaf sugar is, as a rule, chemically pure. it is probably, indeed, the purest of all substances in commerce, and a large quantity may be burnt up without obtaining a trace of nitrogen and without leaving any residue. the only sugar that may be impure are the raw sugars." it is commonly known that sugar may come from any one of numberless sources. sugar of milk is the first sugar with which members of the human race become acquainted, but one which, of course, is of little account in candy-making. the sugar of fruits is in an easily accessible form and one which is of particular value when combined with cane sugar. honey as stored by the honey bee formerly was highly prized for food value, but now that it is so often stored by the factory without any activity on the part of the honey bee, and now that cane sugar is so very cheap, it is not so much in demand. for the sugar of candy-making, there are three sources: the sugar cane, sugar beet and the sugar maple. for practical purposes, maple sugar may be left out of the discussion. ever since sugar has been made on a commercial scale from beets there has waged a controversy as to the relative merits of beet sugar and cane sugar. as far as the amateur candy-maker is concerned, however, the controversy is not of practical interest, for almost all of the sugar that is sold in small quantities is made from beets. indeed, it is said that it is practically impossible for the housekeeper to obtain sugar made from cane. moreover, notwithstanding the popular impression that cane sugar is preferable, scientists insist that in every case the pure cane sugar, or saccharose, can be crystallized out from either cane or beet, and that the sugar is identical in chemical composition, appearance and properties. by no chemical test known to the united states department of agriculture can pure crystallized saccharose from these different sources be distinguished. the popular impression to the contrary probably comes from the use of beet sugar that has been imperfectly purified. it is interesting to note that there are over ninety grades of sugar known to commerce. the difference between these grades is often so slight that it is impossible to distinguish without painstaking laboratory analysis. in this book white sugar and confectioner's sugar are used wherever possible because they are the purest kinds. brown sugar and coffee a., much used in candy-making, are grades which have not been refined to so high a point. a word should be said concerning glucose. the complaint which has been made in connection with glucose has not been made against the substance itself, but against the way it was used. the amateur candy-maker, however, often has difficulty in obtaining glucose, even though in some processes it is most useful. r. e. doolittle of the federal board of food and drug inspection, declares that no question of harmfulness has been raised by this board with respect to the use of glucose in food products. where glucose is substituted for sugar and used instead of natural sweetening agents, the ruling has been made that its presence should be plainly declared upon the label of the product. the reasons for this action are: (1) where a manufactured substance is substituted for a natural one it is believed that the purchaser is entitled to be informed of the substitution; (2) the cost of glucose is usually somewhat lower than that of sucrose; (3) glucose consists only in part of a sugar, dextrose, and is inferior to sucrose in sweetening power. in this country commercial glucose is manufactured from the starch of the indian corn. the starch is suspended in water, the whole placed into large steam tanks together with some hydrochloric acid, the steam is turned on to these tanks and the whole brought up to a heavy pressure. by this means the starch is partially converted into dextrose, a sugar, and dextrin, a gum. when the conversion has reached the proper point the pressure is removed, the hot liquid is neutralized with sodium carbonate, filtered and evaporated to a thick liquid. the resulting compound contains about 35 per cent. dextrose, about 45 per cent. dextrin, a small percentage of ash and the rest water. a word of caution should be given concerning the time of eating sugar. obviously if candy is consumed before meals it will destroy the appetite and interfere seriously with the meal. obviously, also, it is unwise to eat heavily of candy before retiring. notwithstanding her enthusiasm for vegetable candies the writer feels these cautions should be just as much observed with vegetable candy as with any other. the whole question of the amount and form of sugar to be given to children, is one of utmost importance. children lose more heat from the skin for every pound of body weight than do the adults, and because of this fact, require proportionately more heat. this heat can come only from food and sugar is the food which produces this heat most directly and most cheaply. this need for a heat producing food, it could be urged, could be readily met by the use of fat. the difficulty is that fat, and particularly fat meat, is generally disliked by the child. because of this distaste, his desire for all sorts of sweet things has undoubtedly a physiological basis. it is necessary, however, to observe very carefully the digestibility of sugar and sweetened foods in order to decide to what extent sugar is to replace starch in the dietary. the effect of sugar upon the appetite for other foods must be given particular care. mrs. mary hinman abel, president of the american home economics association, says that, until a child's stomach is capable of digesting starch, the needed carbohydrate is furnished in the sugar of milk. the child a year old who drinks two quarts of milk per day takes in this way about three ounces of sugar. "as the stomach becomes able to digest starch," mrs. abel continues, "the child is less and less dependent on the sugar of milk, replacing it with the carbohydrates of vegetable origin, while the proteids and fat found in eggs, meat, and cereals take the place of those constituents that were at first exclusively furnished in milk. milk, however, remains through childhood a valuable source of all these food principles. "the fact that sugar has a high food value is not the only point to be considered. the child will easily obtain the needed carbohydrates in other forms and will thrive if the digestion remains sound and its relish for wholesome food unimpaired. for instance, one often hears it said that a certain child does not relish milk. in such cases it might be found that the child's appetite, being sated by sugar in other foods, is no longer attracted by the mild sweetness of fresh milk, delicious as it is to the unspoiled palate. it would be well, perhaps, in this instance, to cut down the allowance of sugar in the hope of restoring the taste for so invaluable a food as milk. dr. rotch insists that the infant, even in its second year, should never be allowed to taste sweets. he says, 'when these articles are withheld it will continue to have a healthy appetite and taste for necessary and proper articles of food.' even much later, for the same reasons, the introduction of large amounts of sugar into the daily food of children is to be carefully considered. children do not require a variety of flavors to stimulate the appetite, but the taste is easily perverted and the backward step is difficult to take. those who have studied the food habits of children seem to agree that sugar should from the very first be withheld from the dish that forms the staple food of the child--that is, the mush or porridge of oatmeal or some preparation of wheat or corn. this article of diet, eaten only with milk or cream, falls into the same class as bread and milk, and forms the simple, wholesome basis of a meal. the sugar given the child is better furnished in the occasional simple pudding, in the lump of sugar, or home-made candy, not that its food value is better utilized, but the whole food of the child is thus more wholesome." mrs. mary hinman abel concludes her discussion with the statement: "sugar is a useful and valuable food. it must, however, be remembered that it is a concentrated food and therefore should be eaten in moderate quantities. further, like other concentrated foods, sugar seems best fitted for assimilation by the body when supplied with other materials which dilute it or give it the necessary bulk." it is this fact, from the point of view of the dietitian, that commends vegetable candy so highly. the vegetable base gives the necessary bulk and dilution--in addition to adding other valuable food elements. section two viii decorative candies i. from potato paste now that the use of vegetable bases is reduced to principles, the amateur confectioner need have no difficulty in working out in candy attractive and novel designs suitable to all special days and uses. and the best of it is--thanks to such a humble vegetable as the potato--she can follow her own ideas and fashion in confectionery a pattern that is all her own. moreover, she can take comfort in the thought that in her product there is none of the highly injurious ingredients unfortunately all too common in some decorative candies. as the foundation for one sort of decorative confectionery, potato paste must be made. steam or boil irish potatoes, drain them, and force them through a fine sieve,--the finer the better. with one-half cupful of irish potato, so prepared, mix one tablespoonful of corn starch. gradually and carefully work in enough confectioner's sugar so that the mixture can be rolled. the "fine sieve," be it noted, plays a conspicuous and important part in the making of candy from vegetables. moreover, it should be borne in mind that no vegetable particle will either soften in or cook up into syrup. while cooking, the vegetable particles are just as individual as though they were in separate vessels; consequently they must be kept circulating as uniformly as is possible through the syrup in order to prevent the accumulation of masses of vegetable matter of sufficient bulk and weight to sink to the bottom of the sauce pan and cause the mixture to burn. moreover, should the mixture escape burning, it would develop gluey spots that would make the finished product lacking in the smoothness that is the ideal of the candy-cook. flavor and color this paste to suit, place it on a surface well dusted with confectioner's sugar and roll it to the desired thinness. cut it in shapes to suit. cooky cutters or any other tin cutters may be used. more often, however, the amateur confectioner will prefer her own design. cut a pattern of the desired design from paper, or, if it is to be used repeatedly, from paste board. oiling the pattern not only gives it a firmer edge and prevents tearing but also allows any sugar or paste that may have adhered to it easily to be wiped off. lay the pattern over the paste, and, with a sharp pointed knife, cut along the edges. lift the newly cut forms carefully with a thin knife and transfer them for drying to an oil cloth or, if this cannot be done, to a waxed paper or a tin very thinly dusted with confectioner's sugar. do not move them again until they are dry. if it is desired to pack the candy, cook a crystal--a "crystal" is a syrup of one part water and three parts sugar--to two hundred and twenty degrees and after it has cooled five minutes, dip the confection into it. it is not essential that the forms be dipped into the crystal nor is the crystal absolutely necessary to any of the confections that are often coated with it. all this is explained in chapter v--crystallization. a knife which is of almost constant use in making decorative candies and which is particularly satisfactory for lifting small forms is a palette knife such as artists use for mixing their colors. it is thin, flexible and sufficiently sharp for cutting fondant. also the blade lends itself to use in many different positions because its curved shape allows the hand a degree of freedom not possible with the ordinary knife. the palette knife is much better for freeing or lifting forms from a flat surface than a spatula or a case knife. the imagination of the candy-maker will suggest special designs for special occasions. the fancy of the confectioner will suggest many attractive original forms, besides the traditional red and white hearts for st. valentine's day,--note illustration no. 17 in the frontispiece--the green shamrock for march 17, and the hatchet for washington's birthday. christmas, new years, easter, memorial day, fourth of july, labor day, columbus day, hallowe'en and innumerable local holidays, like bunker hill day and patriots' day of massachusetts,--all of these special occasions offer abundant opportunity to the candy-maker who realizes that from the paste can be made representations of anything from a firecracker to a regiment of soldiers. cooky cutters may also be used indefinitely; what child would not like candy in the form of stars, dogs, horses, and trees? =green leaves.=--an excellent illustration of the possibilities of potato paste is given by green leaves. as the basis for them, color potato paste green, by the use of green coloring paste, of the harmless vegetable sort, and flavor fairly strongly with peppermint. roll the paste thin, cut out the leaves, using the point of a knife or a tin cutter, and model the veins. a small, blunt, wooden tool,--even a clean orange stick will do--should be used to make the depressions that are the veins. after the leaves have dried on waxed paper, dip into a crystal cooked to two hundred and twenty-five degrees. drain them on a wire rack and dust them evenly with granulated sugar. it is well to use a thin bladed knife to lift the pieces. see the small box in the middle of the illustration facing page 98, and no. 1 in the frontispiece. ii. violets =violets.=--in hot weather violets do not take kindly to the "candying" process, and in cold they are expensive and hard to get. there are no such limitations, however, to pop-corn and cocoanut. "violets" made from them are especially good christmas candies, because they are decorative and can be made a month or six weeks in advance--long before the last rush. =pop-corn violets.=--using the hard spots for centers, jam and break well-blown kernels of pop-corn until they resemble violets, as they will do with more exactness than would be thought. boil one cupful of sugar and one-third cupful of water until a syrup is formed; the thermometer should register two hundred and nineteen degrees. after the syrup is cool, dip the pop-corn into it, making sure that the liquid forms an even and complete covering. as a thin crust begins to cover the syrup, keep pushing it down into the liquid. if this is done the syrup can all be used before it has time to harden. immediately after the surplus has drained off, dredge lightly with powdered sugar, into which has been worked violet coloring paste, previously moistened with a few drops of violet extract, or even water. in this case the colored sugar should be a shade or two lighter than is desired for the finished product, as the syrup darkens the color. note no. 2 of the frontispiece. =cocoanut violets.=--mix the white of an egg, one-half cupful confectioner's sugar--the kind sometimes known as xxxx--and one-half cupful of irish potato prepared as directed above. this makes more candy than the home confectioner ordinarily has use for, but directions for a smaller amount cannot well be given owing to the practical impossibility of dividing an egg. an easy way out of the difficulty, however, is to use as much of this mixture as is desired for the violets and to save the rest for use in making potato fondant, described hereafter. flavor this mixture with violet extract. add the color with the extract, but remember that a little will go a long way. use vegetable violet coloring paste until the color is a shade or two darker than is desired for the finished product. stir in cocoanut until all the mass adheres to the cocoanut. baker's cocoanut is better than the shredded, but often the shredded must be used, as the other size is becoming more and more difficult to obtain. if the shredded is used, break it so that each piece will not be more than one-half inch long. if the mixture does not then dry readily, stir in more confectioner's sugar. to fashion the violets, dip the fingers into cold water, take up a quantity of the preparation about the size of a violet, and model into the shape of the flower. a little practice will enable the candy-maker to form objects that look more like violets than do the flowers themselves after they have been put through the candying process. sift granulated sugar over each flower, shaking off surplus sugar. dry on waxed paper. this confection would better be used within two or three weeks. =violet boutonniere.=--from violets, preferably cocoanut, boutonnieres very attractive for favors can be fashioned. have ready a supply of the violets, candied cress leaves, violet, green or tinsel foil, lace paper mats,--small paper doilies may be substituted,--and number twenty-two wire. it is well to cut wires six inches long for they can later be trimmed or bent to form a stem of from three and one-half to four inches long. with a fine needle puncture the back of a cocoanut violet and insert the end of a piece of wire. to make the union firm, place a drop of thick syrup at the point at which the wire enters the mixture. seven violets so treated will be sufficient for one boutonniere. in a similar manner, wire one less of the crystallized cress leaves. put all the wires through the center of the mat. group the violets about one placed in the center. as nearly all mats come with an even number of designs in the edge, it is much easier to arrange the boutonniere if the row of flowers next the mat contains an even number also. the leaves should be so arranged in a row underneath the flowers. before an attractive arrangement can be made, some little experimenting may be necessary. wrap the wires with tissue paper and cover with foil. the making of the boutonnieres is not so difficult as it sounds, though some knack is required for the best results. see the illustration opposite page 72. iii. from potato fondant =uncooked fondant.=--potato fondant is another base--even more useful than potato paste--upon which many confections may be built. there are two kinds--cooked and uncooked. to make the uncooked, boil or steam irish potatoes, drain, and force them through a fine sieve. in all candy-making with potatoes, these directions are of the utmost importance. unless the potato is carefully forced through a fine sieve, the candy made from it will have hard and gluey spots after it has dried out. mix one-half cupful of the potato so prepared with the unbeaten white of one egg. add gradually confectioner's sugar until the whole mass assumes the consistency of bon-bon cream. several uses for potato fondant will be described below, but it may be substituted for french fondant in any of the confections of which that is a part. =cooked potato fondant.=--with one-half cupful of potato, prepared as for the uncooked fondant, very thoroughly mix two cupsful of sugar and thin with two-thirds of a cupful of milk. place the mixture on an asbestos mat over the fire and cook until thick--to the sticking point. pour the mass on a cold, damp marble and "cut in" like plain fondant. knead small quantities at a time until the whole batch is smooth. pack in tins lined with wax paper. the fondant can be used without additional sugar and does not stick to the hands. it is particularly useful as a covering. =modeled candy.=--modeled candy is easy to make, good to look at and good to eat. when shaped to imitate fruit or vegetables, it is useful as table decoration, and is always welcome for children's parties. indeed, there is no sort of candy that is surer of a warm welcome by young or old! the difficulty has been, however, that modeling with almond paste requires the use of ingredients that are very expensive and very often difficult to obtain. this has made experimenting in modeling rather expensive for the unskilled home candy-maker. potato fondant, on the other hand, is inexpensive and so easily obtained that the amateur need not count the cost of failures while she experiments. by following the directions carefully very little practice in the modeling will give her a facility that removes her from the class of unskilled modelers. if she prefers to use almond paste, the home candy-maker may do her practicing with potato fondant. moreover, many young women have studied clay modeling and to them the modeling of candy is indeed simple. while the modeled candy that is sold in candy stores often--though not always--contains harmful substances, potato fondant is absolutely wholesome. potato fondant shows particular superiority over the almond paste in the making of small objects and all fine and thin work. the results are as attractive to the palate as to the eye, although candy modeled from potato fondant does not have the peculiar oily richness of the products fashioned from almond paste. for one batch take as much of the uncooked potato fondant as the work in hand calls for. into it work all the sugar that it will take. stop the kneading just as soon as the mixture shows a tendency to crumble. model it into any form desired. it is best not to make the pieces too large. the modeling may be done with the small clay modeling tool now common in kindergartens and technical schools, or with a clean orange stick. a thin sheet of glass will be found exceedingly satisfactory upon which to model. as the glass is thin, intricate flowers of many petals, for instance, can be slipped off with little disturbance. use a thin knife to loosen and lift only slightly, slipping each model off with as little handling as possible. another advantage is that the glass can easily be washed. =coloring.=--the vegetable coloring pastes which are sold for use in cooking are harmless. a set of the small jars ordinarily sold for ten cents a jar will probably be enough for any candy that the amateur may make in one season. the colors generally in the set are fruit red, leaf green, golden yellow, caramel, violet, damask, rose, mandarin, orange blue, salmon and chestnut. these pastes may be used in three ways. they may be cooked or worked into a candy mixture or they may be used very much the same as water color pigments and applied with a brush. in the first method it is well to remember that the shade should be mixed a little heavier than desired and must be very thoroughly mixed if used in fondant or prepared compounds. the rules of color combination prevail here as everywhere. so if grades of tone or different colors are desired almost any wish may be met by combination of color. to get just the tone desired, after mixing the colors dissolve a small portion in water and then dip into this liquid a lump of sugar. if the tint is not the right one, it is easily changed. any shade of green may be obtained by mixing blue and yellow with leaf green. all shades of orange are obtainable from yellow and red. all shades of violet or mauve or even purple for deep violets may be made from red and blue in different proportions. if the color in your candy is not clear and uniform it is because it has not been thoroughly mixed. to avoid spots it must be evenly incorporated through the entire mass. if this does not seem possible with coloring paste, dissolve in a little warm water and then add it to the fondant or prepared compound. in applying with the brush use the wash methods much as in water color work and the shading will be much more artistic and the variety much greater. apply a medium shade uniformly and let thoroughly dry and then shade with light and darker tones. do not use much water, as the surface of the candy does not absorb the water as does water color paper. =white daisy.=--this makes an unusually pretty modeled piece, as will be seen from the illustration facing page 138, and from no. 13 of the frontispiece. white potato fondant is used for the petals and candied orange peel for the center, and angelique for the stem and leaves. flavor the potato fondant with one of the stronger extracts such as peppermint, cinnamon or cloves. if desired it may be used without flavoring, but the more delicate flavors are not so pleasing. mix enough sugar with the fondant for it to mold smoothly and easily and hold its shape. upon a clean piece of glass, or oil cloth, if glass is not easily obtainable, place a piece of angelique of a size suitable for the stem. to form the petals roll pieces of potato fondant between the fingers. properly arrange these petals around the center. press a piece of candied orange peel down upon the stem and petals. this peel gives the yellow center of the daisy and acts as an additional means for holding the stem and petals together. or, yellow fondant may be substituted. run a thin knife under the flower and lift it over the glass to an oil cloth placed over a board or to a piece of waxed paper and dry for twenty-four hours. cook to two hundred and twenty degrees, a syrup made of one cupful of sugar and one-third of a cupful of water; pour this into a dish so that the syrup will be about an inch deep. add to the daisies such leaves cut from angelique as may be desired and then dip into this liquid and lift upon a wire rack. in the making of this as in all composite models the crystal syrup--one cupful of sugar and one-third cupful of water cooked to two hundred and twenty degrees--is an essential asset for gluing purposes. a small bristle brush is good for applying, but care must be used as in using glue not to use too much of the syrup. the syrup, when dry, will hold the leaves to the stem. if the amateur confectioner is very conscientious, she may improve the looks of the flowers by coloring the outside edges of the centers lightly with sugar--first a little brown and then a touch of yellow placed there with the pointed end of the modeling stick. before the flowers have thoroughly set, free them from the wires of the rack. shortly after the dipping, when as much of the syrup as will has run off the flowers, run the fingers along the under side of the rack springing the wires under each piece. this method not only frees the flowers but it rids them of undue accumulations of the syrup. otherwise, the wires would dry into the candies, which would be broken upon their removal. leave on the rack until dry. =yellow daisy.=--yellow daisies may be made by coloring the white potato fondant or by making fresh fondant, using the yolk of the egg in place of the white. the fondant made of the yolk will not model quite so readily but coloring is unnecessary. form the yellow daisy as the white, but use a small raisin for the center, instead of the piece of orange peel. no colored sugar is necessary. crystallize as before. if exceptionally bright and clear colors are desired, the flowers may be dipped twice into a thin crystal instead of once into an ordinary crystal. use the same proportions of sugar and water--one cupful to one-third cupful cooked to only two hundred and twenty degrees. into this dip the flowers after they are thoroughly dry, and dry on a rack as before. the next day dip them again into a crystal of the same sort. dry as before. the result will be glossy flowers, free from crystals, with particularly beautiful yellows and browns. =calla lily.=--this is particularly suitable for easter time. for the stem, use a small stick of angelique. make the center from yellow fondant. while still moist, dip into granulated sugar. see the illustration facing page 138. if the yellow fondant is not on hand, a little of the ordinary white may be colored yellow and used. it is hardly worth while to make up a batch of the special egg fondant for one set of lilies. from the white potato fondant, pat out rather thin pieces, wrap them around the stem, form the lily and curl the edges and make the pointed top and the front fold prominent. if leaves are desired, cut a long leaf from the angelique, dip the stem end into thick syrup and fasten to the stem. to make a perfect union, cover the stem below the lily with syrup. if the lilies are to be used for box trimmings, do not make the stems very long and if leaves are used, bring them up well onto or behind the flower to give added strength so that the stems will be unlikely to break at their juncture with the lily. =red apples.=--as dinner favors, red apples are unusually effective. for the foundation use pulled figs, stuffed with any good mixture. nuts and pitted dates may be used for the filling, but the combination is a little too heavy. marshmallows and pecan meats are preferable. a third possibility is chopped nuts and figs. whatever filling is used, the method of its insertion is the same. if the figs are dry, steam them thoroughly. make a slit in the side, fill with the chosen mixture, and pinch together the edges of the opening. as the covering for the figs, uncooked fondant must be used. cinnamon is a popular flavoring. color it with red paste. at this stage in the process it should not be made the shade desired for the finished product, but there should be enough of the red to overcome the dead white of the fondant. in other words, make the first coating much lighter than it otherwise would be. into the uncooked fondant, sugar must be worked until modeling is easy. encase the stuffed fig in fondant. the thickness of the coating will depend upon the size of the fig; the finished product should be about the size of a real apple. model the surface so that it looks as much like an apple as possible. if it is desired to have the confection all edible, use a piece of angelique for the stem; a twig from a vine or bush really looks better, however. for the blossom end use a clove. if the general directions given above are followed, the result will be a surprising naturalness. [illustration: fascinating to the child] proceeding as directed on page 64, use the vegetable coloring pastes for the coloring. as the red color paste is likely to have the magenta shade overmuch, the first coating would better be of orange and the second of enough dark red to give the true apple red. to intensify the color and leave the apple glossy, brush it with crystal syrup cooked to two hundred and twenty degrees. the syrup should be used while yet warm and should be applied smoothly. by the use of other colors, other sorts of apples can be made. before being eaten, these apples, like real apples, should be cut into sections. see the illustration facing this page, and no. 24 of the frontispiece. =single roses.=--they may be pink, red, yellow or white. the process in each case is the same except for the coloring and the flavoring. take as much fondant as is needed for roses of one color and as the base, use uncooked potato fondant. divide it into three lots and color with paste the shade desired--the first so very faintly that its tint is just off the white, the second a little deeper and the third deeper still. always remember that immersion in hot syrup deepens the color. remember, too, that the three lots of different shades are for roses of one color only. for red roses, use cinnamon flavor and red coloring. for yellow roses, use clove as flavoring and yellow as coloring. yellow roses are shown as nos. 3 and 26 of the frontispiece. be very careful not to use too much color. for white roses, use the plain fondant, but after the rose has dried a touch of green must be added to give depth and character. for pink roses, use rose water as flavor and pink as coloring. whatever the color of the rose, form five petals, curling the edges to imitate those of the natural rose, and using different shades for different petals so that the rose will have natural variety of color. at the center use a small piece of angelique; a touch of darker green coloring to the center of the angelique gives the rose greater verisimilitude. it is well to model them upon a sheet of glass and when completed lift on to a waxed paper to dry. if the rose is a white one, let it be remembered that it must be shaded with light green. when the flowers are dry dip them into a crystal, cooked to two hundred and twenty-five degrees. use brown and yellow sugar to imitate the pollen around the green centers. the pointed end of the wooden tool will be useful in placing these colored sugars. they must be made to stand out clearly. if too much syrup has collected around the center, be sure to push it out with the blunt end of the tool before trying to put the sugar in place. after the roses have dried, they are ready to look at and eat. =rose buds.=--from potato fondant, colored as desired, model several small petals. cut a piece of angelique to represent the stem and properly arrange the petals around one end of it and press them on. the leaves and thorns are to be made from angelique and attached by pressing them to the stem using the crystal, prepared for the dipping, as glue. the calyx, made from angelique, may be also so attached. when the buds have dried dip them into a crystal cooked to two hundred and twenty-five degrees. dry on racks. the crystal will make stronger the union of petals, leaves, thorns and stem. =new potato.=--a particularly appropriate form in which to model the potato fondant is that of the new potato. work the proper sized piece of fondant into as close an imitation as possible of the new potato. as this new potato has perhaps more of the fondant than many people will wish to eat at one time, several partial substitutions are possible. that statement, by the way, is no reflection upon the fondant, for any piece of candy, no matter how good, of the size of this is likely to be rather too much to be eaten at one time if of one flavor. marshmallows, pitted dates with nut meats, pulled figs closely rolled, or english walnut meats are some of the things that may well be used as centers. whatever is used should be rolled in enough of the fondant to make pieces of the desired size and form and then immediately rolled in dry cocoa. the result will be strikingly convincing--and good to eat. =pea pod.=--from fondant colored green, a pea pod may be modeled, split, and the peas modeled and placed within. when the forms are dry, dip them in a crystal made by boiling one cupful of sugar and one-third cupful of water to two hundred and twenty degrees. use care that the syrup does not settle between the peas. granulated sugar dusted over the pod gives a beautiful soft color and surface. =snow balls.=--all modeled candies are a delight to children, but snow balls always meet with a particular favor. stuffed figs, prepared as directed for red apples on page 70, form the basis for them. to keep the color of the figs from showing through, cover them with the uncooked fondant and roll in the hands until perfect balls are formed. after the balls have dried two or more hours, roll them again in this coating of uncooked fondant to which has been added a small quantity of blue coloring. this is to insure the balls being snow white. brush these balls with the unbeaten white of an egg and roll in equal parts of crystal and granulated sugar. =grapes.=--the confection described below and pictured opposite page 72 is good to look at, good to eat, and comparatively easy to make. it should be borne in mind, by the way, that the directions for candies often sound more difficult than the actual process. as the basis for the grapes, take smooth almonds, not blanched. into the smaller end of each one insert nickeled wire, pushing it well into the nut. then cover the nuts with potato fondant. work them with the fingers until they assume the forms of single grapes. dry in a corn starch bed. when the forms are dry, brush all the corn starch off. the grapes so formed should be colored a medium shade by the use of vegetable coloring pastes to resemble catawba or purple grapes. because of the opaqueness of the grapes, they cannot be made to imitate closely the color of green grapes, but if the confectioner has an unusual fondness for green grapes, and is not over particular, there is no reason why she should not attempt them. after coloring, dry the grapes thoroughly on a wire screen, finish them in thin crystal, which has been colored somewhat lighter than the shade the finished grapes are expected to assume. in order to leave the confection with a glossy surface, it is possible to add to the crystal a very small quantity of gum arabic. after the crystal is thoroughly dry, the wires should be wound with raffia of the leaf green shade, and, by twisting the wires together, the single grapes formed into bunches of the size desired. if the confectioner wishes large bunches, it is well to wind the wires onto a tree twig, for the sake of the additional firmness. it should be remembered that the large bunches are heavy. the use of the twig is also recommended for the natural appearance it gives to the finished bunch. brush the stems with a thin syrup. the loose ends of the raffia may be disposed of and the appearance of the confection made more natural by dampening them with the syrup and winding them around any round object of about the size of a lead pencil. the ends of the raffia, so treated, will resemble tendrils. in taste, the grapes are much like the usual hard-covered almonds. =other possibilities.=--if the candy-maker has ambition and imagination, she will regard the foregoing objects as merely suggestive; she will work out for herself other objects of equal interest. the following suggestions as to coloring, she will find valuable no matter how much she may want to create for herself. for pears, use yellow with red; for peaches, yellow with a very little red; for pumpkins, light orange with touches of green; for radishes, light red, with green for the stem; for carrots, orange with a slight touch of green; for plums, the so-called violet with a very little red; for strawberries, red, touched with yellow to simulate the seeds--and so on indefinitely. ix potato caramel three receipts are given for potato caramels and one for opera caramels. it should be noted that opera caramels and the ordinary potato caramels are as different as fudge and taffy. the first of the receipts for potato caramels is by all odds the best, but it means much hard work. the second is much easier, but the results, while good to eat, are not so pleasing in looks or consistency. the third is a compromise. in none, owing to the very slow cooking, is it possible to use a thermometer to advantage. the old tests, supplemented by a sort of intuition that old candy-makers call "caramel sense" will have to be used to determine when cookings are completed. but with good fortune and a little experimenting, the amateur confectioner's judgment will soon become accurate. potato caramel no. 1. stir well one pound of sugar, one cupful of milk, one cupful of irish potato--boiled and sifted as directed before--two tablespoonfuls of butter and one-half teaspoonful of salt. boil until thick, and thin with one-half cupful of milk, and again cook until thick; again thin with one-half cupful of milk and cook until the mass is of caramel consistency, tested in cold water. stir as little as possible, but be careful that the mass does not stick to the bottom of the kettle. pour on a well oiled marble between candy bars. dry two days, cut in strips and dry again before finally cutting in squares. place them in a cold place for several hours and then wrap them in parchment paper. they keep well. this is the kind of potato caramel that is especially good for chocolate coating, although all of the potato caramels can be chocolate coated. make the caramels as above and allow them to dry in the open air for several hours and then cover with chocolate. the process is fully as laborious as it sounds, but the results are more than worth the trouble. the repeated cookings give the characteristic caramel taste and color. the following receipt, however, means less work. potato caramel no. 2. boil together one cupful of granulated sugar, one cupful of coffee a sugar, one-half cupful of irish potato--treated as before--one tablespoonful of butter, one cupful of milk, caramel coloring. stir continually until the mass forms a soft ball in cold water. then pour it onto a well oiled marble between candy bars. potato caramel no. 3. boil one pound of brown sugar, one cupful of milk, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and one-quarter cupful of irish potato--prepared as before--until a bit dipped from the mass will form a firm ball in cold water. stir as little as possible. pour on an oiled marble between candy bars. the result is more like fudge but is cooked to dryness without being grained by beating. opera caramel. to two cupsful of sugar, one cupful irish potato boiled, drained and forced through a fine sieve, add one tablespoonful of butter and thin with one-half cupful of milk. cook until thick; remove from the fire. put in one-half cupful of milk again. cook until thick, remove from the fire and add one-half cupful of milk. return the pan to the fire again. this is the last time. it is wise to place an asbestos mat under the saucepan. cook until very thick--until a soft ball can be formed in cold water. after the mass has been removed from the fire, add one cupful of broken walnut meats, and one cupful of bon-bon cream, broken in small pieces so that it will be distributed quickly through the mass without much stirring and pour the mixture between candy-bars on an oiled marble. when cold cut it into squares; for home use it will not need wrapping. as with potato caramel no. 1, this confection is most pleasantly susceptible to chocolate coating. allow it to dry in the open air for several hours and then cover with chocolate as usual. broken nut meats can be added to any of the caramel recipes above. x potato--miscellaneous potatoes are probably the most useful vegetable known to the maker of vegetable confectionery. as has been explained in the preceding chapters, they are the basis of potato fondant and potato paste, both of which are basic mixtures. the usefulness of the potato does not end with decorative candy. in the form both of paste and fondant and prepared in other ways, it is responsible for several pleasing new confections. =mocha walnuts.=--to the yolk of one egg beaten to a cream, add one-half cupful of irish potato--boiled, drained, and forced through a sieve as described before--and one teaspoonful of coffee extract. gradually stir in confectioner's sugar until the mass can be made into soft balls. flatten these balls, press on walnut meats, and spread to dry. if desired for packing, dip them into a crystal cooked to two hundred and twenty degrees. to insure a good surface and keep the cream from drying out, it may be well to dip the candy again after letting it dry a day. see no. 8 in the frontispiece. =pecan creams.=--the process for making them is the same as that described for making mocha walnuts except that lemon or vanilla extract is used instead of coffee,--see no. 14 of the frontispiece--and pecan meats, instead of walnut meats. indeed, the imaginative candy-cook will be able to invent for herself several other new confections built upon this same principle. =raisin creams.=--to make them, form potato fondant--directions for which are given on page 61--into balls and place a seeded raisin on each side. cook a crystal syrup to two hundred and twenty-eight degrees and keep it warm by the use of the steam bath. into it, dip, one by one, the fondant balls, prepared as above. dry on racks. if desired, ordinary bon-bon cream, flavored and colored to suit the cook's fancy, may be substituted for the potato fondant. a satisfactory variety is given these raisin creams by pulling the raisin entirely over a pecan meat before attaching to the cream. this confection is rich in flavor and most attractive in shape. =peppermint chocolates.=--potato paste--described on page 52--is the basis for them. make a softer paste by using less sugar, work in peppermint to taste, form it into balls, flatten and dry for a couple of hours. then dip them in chocolate as usual. after the finished candy has stood for a time long enough for the chocolate covering to have mellowed the center, the result will be a cream of excellent flavor and a texture unusually attractive because of its grain. the difference between this and the ordinary peppermint chocolate is so great that they really are not the same confection. =celtic almonds.=--this attractive confection is in reality a cream, but a cream so different from the ordinary nut cream that it seems to fall into a separate class. in place of the usual richness, there is here a delicacy of flavor and clearness of outline that is a distinctly enjoyable addition to confectionery. blanch almonds, split them, and dry in a soft cloth. color potato fondant pink and flavor it with rose. roll fondant so prepared into small balls, and place upon each side of each a split almond. each piece should then be made to imitate as clearly as possible the shape of the real almond. the ideal result is a confection that is very little larger than the real almond with a thin layer of cream between translucent nut meats. after a little experimentation, persuasive fingers can accomplish this result. when fashioned, dip the candies into a crystal syrup cooked to two hundred and twenty-five degrees and roll in granulated sugar. walnuts or pecans can be treated in the same way with white or colored fondant. the result, however, will not be so distinctively dainty and will be little improvement upon the mocha walnuts and pecan creams described above. =chocolate bars.=--as the basis, take cooked potato fondant which has been well kneaded. form it into a sheet about one-quarter of an inch thick. cut therefrom bars an inch and a quarter long by a quarter of an inch wide. dip them in chocolate and let them dry. a pleasing variation is made from the same base--cooked potato fondant. knead into it melted chocolate. a portion of the resulting mass may be formed into balls and the rest rolled into a long piece as slender as a pipe stem. this small cylinder should be cut into two inch lengths and the ends pointed. another method is to make small balls and give these a very thin coating of white fondant. in any case, dry on a corn starch bed and coat with chocolate. =vegetable cream.=--vegetable cream is another base with which much can be done in vegetable candy-making. in itself, it is good to eat and can be made to take many different and useful forms. to make it, mix two cupsful of sugar, one cupful of irish potato--boiled or steamed, drained and forced through a sieve--one teaspoonful of butter, and one-half teaspoonful of salt. boil to two hundred and twenty-eight degrees. have ready one-fourth cupful each of preserved garden "ginger" and spiced beets drained from their syrup; cut very fine, and spread upon a marble slab. over beet and "ginger" pour the cooked mixture, and "cut in" as for fondant. "gingers" are described upon page 101 and spiced beets upon page 111. below, there are suggested five ways of using the cream. many others, however, will come to the mind of the experienced candy-cook. vegetable cream may be formed into balls and rolled in granulated sugar. the balls so prepared may then be rolled in shredded cocoanut, cut fine, or the balls without the sugar may be covered with the cocoanut. another possibility is to dip the balls into chocolate. nuts may be added, either by rolling the balls in the meats cut into little pieces, or by pressing the meats into the balls and treating with the crystal syrup, or by using a drop or two of the crystal to glue the nut meat to the ball and then coating. moreover, the balls may be used in their simple form without any covering at all. no matter what is done with them, of course, they must be dried off before serving. xi sweet potato sweet potatoes used as the basis for candy-making should be baked. boiled sweet potato changes color during the succeeding processes and retains an amount of water that is likely to cause trouble. after baking, the potato should be forced through a fine sieve. make sure that the sifting process is done so thoroughly that all fiber is removed. =sweet potato patties.=--for the patties, boil until very thick one pound of granulated sugar, one cupful of sweet potato prepared as above; one-half cupful of desiccated cocoanut, and one-half cupful of water. when the mixture has cooked, add one-half cupful of bon-bon cream, cut into small pieces. stir thoroughly. as the mass begins to set, drop it quickly on waxed paper in small drops. act promptly, for the mass sets quickly. the drops will not be smooth. to improve the looks of these patties, they may be dipped in a crystal syrup, cooked to two hundred and twenty degrees; and then dusted with granulated sugar. if they are not wanted immediately, they may be packed for any length of time not exceeding six weeks provided they have been finished with the crystal and granulated sugar. =sweet potato knots.=--cook until very thick equal quantities of granulated sugar and sweet potato--prepared as before--and add a few drops of oil of cinnamon. if another color is preferred to the natural amber, add coloring paste to suit. immediately spread the mixture over a tin sheet upon which has been sifted confectioner's sugar. the tin should be of such a size that the mass will be about one-quarter of an inch thick. when it has dried so that it will not stick to the fingers, with a long, thin knife, cut narrow ribbon-like strips about six inches long. fashion them into bowknots. be sure that there is not undue thickness at the center. the tools described in the second chapter--particularly page 16--will be useful as will also be the glass sheet. if the candy is moist, dip the hands into xxxx sugar. dry on oilcloth or waxed paper. when firm, dip into a crystal which has been cooked to two hundred and twenty-five degrees and allowed to stand for five minutes. dry on a screen. their attractiveness can be seen at a glance at the foreground of the illustration opposite page 138, and by looking at no. 18 in the frontispiece. =sweet potato pastilles.=--they are made from the same mixture as are the knots. while the mixture is still hot, drop it in small drops upon a cold bare marble, and dust them with granulated sugar. when they have dried for several hours, or, if possible, over night, lift with a thin knife, place two drops together by their bases, dredge again with granulated sugar to cover the edges, and dry. xii parsnip crystallization forms the basis of candy-making with parsnips. by means of a modification of the old fashioned french hand method, it is possible to make a confection that is good in itself, useful as the basis for other confections, and of unusually long keeping qualities. parsnip candy, though the invention of to-day, has a pleasing old fashioned taste and appearance. =candied parsnips.=--in method of preparation and keeping qualities, they resemble the candied flag root of our grandmothers. they are useful to trim a box of candy. peel the parsnips and leave them in cold water for two or three hours. cut cross-wise into very thin slices, drop the slices into boiling water, and let them boil five minutes. after they have thoroughly drained, put them into a syrup made by boiling together one part of water and three parts of granulated sugar. make sure that the syrup really is a syrup--that the sugar and water have thoroughly united. add the parsnips and boil for ten minutes. next comes the use of a novel modification of hand crystallization--a process that the amateur candy-maker may well afford to make herself master of, because it is useful for many confections. obtain a pan with sloping sides into which the drying rack will drop half way. as the pan must be used for candy-making and nothing else and as the greatest strength is not necessary, a suitable dish can probably be obtained from a ten-cent store. stir carefully with a wooden paddle in order to make sure that all the pieces are separated and that the hot syrup comes into contact with all the surfaces of the confections. pour the hot mass over the rack--in position in the pan--and immediately put a board over the pan. make sure that the vegetable is evenly distributed. the wood absorbs the moisture while a tin cover would make trouble by causing the steam to condense and drop back onto the candy. leave the pan undisturbed for twenty-four hours. then lift the rack out, pour the syrup into the kettle and cook to two hundred and twenty degrees. return the vegetable to the syrup and stir carefully; each piece must be immersed. the small pieces of candy will be heated through in so very short a time that it is necessary only to make sure that each piece has been thoroughly immersed in the hot syrup. make sure that the rack is clean and free from particles of the syrup. thereupon, again pour it over the rack arranged in the pan as before. repeat the process four times, each time cooking the syrup two degrees hotter. the result is a slow crystallization which covers the candy so that it is perfectly preserved and very good to taste and look upon. although the work must be distributed over six days, only a very few minutes are required except upon the first day. =parsnip boutonniere.=--the candied parsnip forms the basis of one of the most decorative of all boutonnieres. for each of them have ready, besides a supply of the parsnips, candied as above, artificial fern, sometimes sold under the name "imitation air plant," a lace mat, a number twenty-two wire, and one yard of ribbon one-half inch wide, the preferred color. see the illustration opposite page 72. mix one cupful of sugar and one-third cupful of water, and color the same as the ribbon. cook the syrup thus made to two hundred and twenty-five degrees. into this hot syrup drop the crystallized parsnips, and allow them to remain a few minutes. after they have become thoroughly and evenly colored, pour them upon a wire screen. after they have dried, attach to about two dozen of them pieces of wire about six inches long. it is well to place a drop of thick syrup at the point at which the wire enters the candy. cut the ferns into lengths of from two to four inches. mix the wired candies through the bunch of ferns, occasionally twisting a strand of fern around the wires so that all wires will be hidden. slip the lace mat up over the wires and the ends of the ferns, wrap wires with tissue paper and cover with tinsel foil, either silver or gilt, and tie the center of the ribbon around the stem directly under the mat and form a rosette. about five inches from the point tie the ends together in a bow knot. xiii carrot to the art of candy-making, the use of carrots has brought a harmless new color. formerly the peculiar yellowish orange of the carrot candy was a shade that the confectioner, amateur or otherwise, could not hope to attain without the use of artificial substances. the statement that carrots are valuable in candy-making for their color must not be thought to mean that the confections made from them are not very good to eat. quite the contrary; carrot candies have a very pleasing flavor. =carrot rings.=--to make them, peel medium sized carrots and let them stand several hours in cold water. cut cross-wise into slices about one-quarter of an inch thick and with a small round cutter or sharp knife remove the center pith. drop the rings into boiling water and cook until tender. after they have thoroughly drained, drop them into a syrup made by boiling one part of water and three parts of sugar to two hundred and twenty degrees. boil until the rings become translucent--probably about ten minutes. dry on a wire rack, taking care that the rings do not touch. the next day, heat the syrup to two hundred and twenty-five degrees and again dip the rings and dry as before. if desired, when they are dry, fill the centers with bon-bon cream or marzipan. when this center has become firm, dip the candy into a syrup cooked to two hundred and twenty-eight degrees. even if the centers are not filled, it is well to make this third dipping; the thermometer should, however, register two hundred and thirty degrees instead of merely two hundred and twenty-eight. [illustration: boxed vegetable candies] =crystallized carrot.=--for this confection, proceed exactly as directed in the previous chapter for crystallized parsnip, substituting, of course, the carrots for the parsnips. =carrot roll.=--from ordinary cream fondant or from cooked potato fondant, make a thin strip about an inch wide. place upon it small pieces of the crystallized carrot, prepared as directed above, and roll so that there is formed a long tube filled with the candied vegetable. cut this tube into pieces as long as desired--half an inch is about right--and after drying until quite firm dip into a crystal cooked to two hundred and twenty-five degrees. if the pieces are not firm when they go into the crystal bath they are likely to soften and lose their roundness. "=gingers.="--preserved ginger is a delightful confection, but it is expensive, and cannot be obtained in every town. there is a substitute that when properly prepared has an added charm, because it is the product of the candy-maker's own art. note the box at the extreme right of the illustration facing page 98. =garden "ginger."=--take white carrots, preferably of fine texture, boil them five or ten minutes, scrape off the outside layer, cut the carrots in quarters, lengthwise, and remove the cores. then remove the point and cut the remainder into slices about the size of the pieces of preserved ginger. boil the pieces in fresh water until they are tender, but change the water frequently to destroy all vegetable taste and odor. yellow carrots can be used, but in that case the resulting confection will differ from preserved ginger in color, although not in taste. to every pound of cooked carrots add two pounds of granulated sugar, one quart of water, two ounces of green ginger root shaved fine, and the juice and grated rind of one lemon. boil the mixture for fifteen minutes, and repeat the boiling the next day, and surely once or twice more; at any rate, until the syrup is very thick. if the boiling was continuous for five hours, the moisture would be eliminated, but the texture of the "ginger" would probably be ruined. the short cookings give the carrots the opportunity to absorb the cooling syrup slowly. if less water were used,--in order to reduce the time of cooking,--the carrot would harden too rapidly to take up enough syrup. if the "ginger" is not wanted for immediate use, it can be stored in the syrup. the confection may be finished at once and packed dry, but the better method of preservation is in the liquid. the open season for carrots is very short and for the "ginger" is the whole year long! to finish, heat the syrup thoroughly and then drain. after the liquid has stopped dripping, roll each piece of the "ginger" in granulated sugar, place the pieces on a wire tray, making sure that no two pieces touch, and put the tray in an oven very slightly heated. when the confection is dry it is done. =variations.=--three variations are possible. if a sharper taste is desired, add a few grains of cayenne pepper the last time the syrup is boiled. if a moister product is preferred, omit the lemon-juice and rind. if green ginger cannot be obtained, substitute one ounce of ground ginger. ground ginger, however, must be boiled in a fine cloth bag; otherwise particles of it will adhere to the pieces of carrot. xiv bean =candied green beans.=--select well filled pods of green beans; wash, and then cook until tender in water to which a little soda has been added. drain. to a pound of beans so cooked, add one gill of water, one pound of sugar, and one tablespoonful of vinegar. boil this mixture for fifteen minutes, and let it remain in the syrup over night. the next day, drain the syrup from the beans and cook it to two hundred and twenty degrees. place the beans upon the screen of the crystal pan, pour the syrup over them, and cover with a board. repeat the process next day. when wanted for use, drain the syrup from the beans. cook the syrup to two hundred and thirty degrees, return the beans to it, allowing them thoroughly to heat through. turn them onto the screen, making sure that they are well spread. cover with a board, and, after a few hours, spread singly. =bean taffy.=--bean taffy easily takes first rank among all taffies--vegetable or otherwise. the taste is good beyond words, and the consistency is pleasingly "chewy" without being tenacious to the point of teeth pulling! lima beans are the best to use as the basis because the skins can easily be removed, but ordinary dried beans may be substituted if care is taken. cover the beans with cold water, let them stand over night, and the next morning boil them until soft, and force through a fine sieve to remove all the skins. boil together two cupsful of granulated sugar, one-half cupful of water, a tablespoonful of butter, and one-half cupful of the beans, prepared as above. after the mixture has boiled thoroughly, add one cupful of milk. add the cupful of milk, one-third at a time. stir the mixture and let it boil a few minutes after each addition of milk. when the thermometer registers two hundred and forty-two degrees, pour the mass onto an oiled marble between oiled candy bars so that it will set about one-quarter inch thick. as with ordinary taffy, cut into pieces of the desired size. =nut bean taffy.=--cut brazil nuts cross-wise into shavings about one-sixteenth of an inch in thickness--about the thickness of the pieces of shaved cocoanut. spread as many of them as are desired upon oiled marble between oiled candy bars. pour over the nuts the mass described above. treat as before. xv beet to the candy cook, the discovery that beets make good confectionery brings a new flavor and a new color--one as desirable as the other, and that is saying a great deal! in candy made from beets there are several new shades of red which previously could not be obtained even by the use of artificial coloring matter. in case the beet color is desired for candies made upon other bases, it can be had very easily. the beets should be boiled until the water is colored red. then this water may be substituted for the water called for by other receipts in vegetable candy-making. the beet color will be given but the beet flavor will not be. the result is a pleasing color without the use of anything that is artificial. =frosted beet slice.=--boil to two hundred and thirty-two degrees two cupsful of sugar, one tablespoonful of grated raw beet, one-third cupful of water, one teaspoonful of vinegar, and one teaspoonful of butter. remove from the fire and stir in one-half cupful of broken walnut meats. when the mass begins to thicken, pour it between oiled candy bars on an oiled marble so that it will form a layer three-quarters of an inch thick. when cool, cover one-quarter of an inch thick with a frosting made of one cupful of sugar, one-quarter cupful of water, and one-eighth teaspoonful of cream of tartar, boiled without stirring to two hundred and thirty-four degrees and then flavored with a few drops of vanilla and lemon and beaten until creamy. when set,--a quick process--cut the mass into pieces about one-half inch wide and one and one-half inches long. if the confection is to be kept, crystallize at two hundred and twenty-five degrees. the looks are improved if the confection is then rolled in granulated sugar. dry on a wire screen for twelve hours or so. note no. 10 in the frontispiece. =beet puffs.=--cut one medium sized beet into thin slices, cover with one-half cupful of cold water and cook in a double boiler until soft. drain, and to the liquid thus obtained add one pound of sugar; boil two or three minutes. to this mixture, add one-half cupful of the cooked beet cut into fine pieces. cook this mass to two hundred and forty degrees. have ready the whites of two eggs, salted and beaten to a stiff froth. remove from the fire and after the steam has ceased to rise, beat the mixture into the whites of the two eggs. using a pecan meat to push with, drop this mixture from a teaspoon in small puffs on waxed paper, leaving the pecan imbedded. this mixture is very foamy and adhesive, sets very quickly and must be handled rapidly. these directions will yield about five dozen puffs. a few drops of rose water may be added if a more delicate flavor is desired. =beet cubes with variations.=--beet cubes possess remarkable color value. to make them, boil to two hundred and thirty degrees two cupsful of granulated sugar, one tablespoonful grated raw beet, one-half cupful of water, one teaspoonful of butter and one cupful of shredded cocoanut. pour the mass between oiled candy bars upon greased marble so that it will form half an inch deep. four things may be done with this mass. it may be cut into cubes. if wanted for future use it may be dipped into a crystal syrup to hold the moisture. children will like it poured into oiled cup-cake tins or any other mold. if molded, care should be taken that the finished confection is not more than half an inch thick. if the cubes are dipped into bon-bon cream they will be of unusual beauty because of the pink showing through the fondant casing. =crystallized beets.=--crystallized beets are fully as pretty as candied rose leaves. they are particularly valuable in trimming boxes of candy--especially "all vegetable" boxes. to crystallize beets, use the process described for parsnips in chapter xii. after the last crystallization, however, the pieces should be separated, dusted with granulated sugar, and dried on a wire screen, instead of being left on the rack. if it is desired to increase the illusion, add rose water to the syrup. =spiced beets.=--boil beets and cut them into cubes of about one inch. mix one cupful of sugar and one-third cupful of vinegar. spice highly. cinnamon, cloves and allspice should be used, and whatever else the fancy of the candy-maker dictates. boil the mixture until it syrups, add the beets and cook ten minutes. remove the mass from the fire, cover and set away for two days. drain the syrup from the beets, boil the syrup to two hundred and twenty degrees and pour it boiling over the beets. cover the mass and set it aside. repeat this process on several successive days. =spiced beet bon-bons.=--take spiced beets and drain off the syrup. cook the syrup to two hundred and thirty degrees. with a wooden paddle beat it at one side of the saucepan until it begins to look creamy. thereupon, add the beets, stir the whole mass briskly and turn it onto a sieve. dry the cubes on a rack, roll each in fondant, dry for two hours and dip in bon-bon cream. xvi tomato =tomato marshmallow.=--very often marshmallows--even the sort sold in candy stores of the better class--contain gums and glucose which the amateur would find difficult to handle even if she felt no scruple in their use. tomato marshmallows, however, are pleasing in consistency and more attractive in flavor than the old-fashioned kind. moreover, they are easy to make, although it is necessary to give more detailed directions than would be required in the description of the process with which the home candy-maker is more familiar. dissolve three tablespoonsful of granulated gelatine in one cupful of hot water. cook and strain ripe tomatoes; to one-half cupful of the strained tomato add one cupful of sugar and cook the mixture to two hundred and thirty degrees. have ready in a deep saucepan, three cupsful of sugar, moistened with one-quarter of a cupful of water. upon it strain the tomato syrup, stir well, thin with a cupful of water, and cook to two hundred and forty degrees. set the mass off the fire, add the gelatine water previously prepared, mix thoroughly and strain into a fresh bowl. have ready the whites of two eggs beaten to a stiff froth. with a french egg whip or a common wooden paddle, beat the cooked mass hard until it is white and does not separate. when it becomes foamy and spongy, gradually add the beaten egg whites and keep beating until the whole mass is very stringy and will almost set on the paddle. sift upon the mass one tablespoonful of corn starch; stir well. pour the candy between candy bars on a marble well dusted with xxxx sugar. leave ten or twelve hours, cut into squares, roll well in xxxx sugar, spread the other side up and dry off. instead of pouring the marshmallows between candy bars, they may be molded in corn starch. store in a tight box. the receipt sounds more laborious than is the process. the repeated boilings are necessary to perfect the product. the acid of the tomato destroys the granularity of the sugar. straining the mixture eliminates the particles of tomato which, not having blended thoroughly into the syrup, would cause trouble by sticking to the bottom of the saucepan in the later higher cooking. =chocolate marshmallow.=--marshmallows, made as directed above, are the basis for them. dip them in coating chocolate; the method of treatment is the same as with ordinary chocolate marshmallows. =vegetable nougatine.=--mix two cupsful of sugar, one-third of a cupful of corn syrup, one-third of a cupful of strained honey, and one-third of a cupful of strained cooked tomato; boil the mixture to two hundred and sixty degrees. beat three egg whites very stiff, and remove the mixture from the fire. until about one-half of a cupful has been so used, dip a spoonful at a time on the eggs, beating the mass continuously. from this point on, use an asbestos mat under the pan. return the remainder to the stove. this time cook the mass to two hundred and ninety degrees. pour it over the eggs, again beating continuously. thereupon, set the mixture on the stove once more. the mass should cook slowly until, when tried in water, a sample of it has the consistency that is desired in the finished candy. some people like the vegetable nougatine soft, others like it "chewy," and still others want it to be hard. stir in one-half of a cupful of almonds, blanched and cut into small pieces, and one-half of a cupful of garden "ginger" also cut into small pieces. line a shallow straight-sided pan with wafer paper. pour in the candy, and press a sheet of wafer paper onto the top. let the mixture stand over night. the next morning remove the candy, paper and all, from the pan and place it on a marble slab, slightly oiled. with a long, thin knife, cut it into strips one and one-half inches long, and three-eighths of an inch thick and deep. do not attempt to cut directly through the candy, but use a sawing motion. immediately wrap the pieces in parchment paper. wafer paper, be it noted, is made from rice. it is easily soluble in water and may be eaten with impunity. =chocolate nougatines.=--if the nougatines are desired for chocolate coating, the process is very simple. instead of pouring the mass into the pan, lined with wafer paper, it should be poured onto a greased marble, between greased candy bars, so placed that the mixture will completely fill the rectangle formed by the bars. as before, cover with wafer paper. over the paper place a board, kept in place with a heavy weight, in order to make the mixture more solid. as before, cut into small pieces. the process of coating is the ordinary one. =nut burs.=--cook one-half of a cupful of strained tomato and one cupful of granulated sugar to two hundred and thirty degrees; add two cupsful of sugar, one-half of a cupful of water, and two teaspoonsful of butter. let this mixture boil up once only; then strain. place it in a three quart saucepan, return it to the fire, and cook to two hundred and forty-two degrees. take one-quarter of a cupful each of preserved garden "ginger" and spiced beet, drain the syrup off and cut very fine; spread upon a wet marble. over beet and "ginger" pour the cooked mixture, and "cut in." form the mass into balls, flatten them slightly, roll in confectioner's sugar, and let dry. with a sharp knife, cut on a board blanched almonds, pecan, and pistachio nut meats into small, pointed pieces. this is the method of using the nuts: have the nuts spread thinly upon a plate. melt coating chocolate, and let it stand until cool. the principles laid down in chapter vi, "chocolate coating," should be followed. into the chocolate dip the dried balls and roll them over the nuts. make sure that the nuts adhere to all parts. dry upon racks. the brown, green and cream of the almonds, pecans and pistachios against the dark chocolate background make a very attractive color scheme. the nuts may be used alone, however, or different combinations may be substituted. other nuts may be drafted into effective service. if peanuts are used, be it noted, they must not be combined with any other nuts; the peanut flavor is overwhelming. see the dish at the right of the illustration facing page 118, and no. 21 of the frontispiece. xvii cornlettes green corn has great possibilities for the maker of vegetable candy. if fresh corn can be obtained, boil the ears in salted water until the kernels are tender. while they are still hot, with a thin, sharp knife cut down the center of each row. press with the back of the knife down the cob thus freeing the pulp but leaving the skin upon the cob. to make certain that the pulp is free from skins, and of a uniform consistency, force it through a coarse sieve. note that the corn is not to be made into a paste as was the potato. if canned corn is used, force it through a sieve. boil together, until the mixture is very thick, one-half cupful of corn, so prepared, one-half cupful of granulated sugar and one-half cupful of coffee a sugar. the thermometer reading will be about two hundred and thirty degrees. add one-half cupful of bon-bon cream. pour the mixture into a rubber mold, or, if preferred, drop like cream wafers upon waxed paper. if the mass is too thick to pour easily, add a few drops of hot water. the quantities here given will fill a mold of four-dozen size--the sort illustrated on page 10. after the drops have dried for five or six hours, dip them singly into a syrup cooked to two hundred and twenty-five degrees. on the next day they will be ready for packing. [illustration: decorative and edible] =nut cornlettes.=--cornlettes are a little richer both in consistency and in flavor than the many creams to which candy eaters are accustomed. by the addition of a nut to each piece, however, cornlettes may be made still richer and still more distinctive candy. there are three methods of adding nuts. the first method is to push the nut into each piece soon after it has been poured into the mold. the great advantage of this method is its ease and quickness. the confection is ready for the serving dish as soon as it is cool enough to leave the mold. a clearer and better finished appearance may be obtained by the use of the second method. by it, the cornlette, when molded, is dipped into a crystal syrup. a drop of the hot crystal is placed upon the back of the nut meat to serve as glue, and corn and nut are pressed together. when cool, the whole is dipped into the crystal. the third process is a compromise. the drop may be dipped into the crystal as soon as it comes from the mold, and the nut, either plain or dipped, may then be placed upon it. when the crystal sets, the union will be firm. xviii onion cold tablets by supplying a more wholesome sort of confectionery, vegetable candy--at least in the eyes of its friends!--has decreased the need of household remedies for indigestion and similar ailments. on the other hand, the newly discovered candy-making brings a definite contribution to the family medicine chest. from onion can be made tablets that have the virtues assigned to our foremothers' cough syrups and even are good to eat, according to those who like the flavor of the onion. onion cold tablets, then, are offered both as confectionery and as a household remedy. it should be borne in mind, however, that no household remedy, however good, or tried, takes the place of the physician. the family health is too precious a commodity to be entrusted to unprofessional hands. to make the tablets, cut into thin slices two ounces of raw onion--about half of a good sized onion,--work the onion into two cupsful of sugar and let the mixture stand for two hours. add two-thirds of a cupful of cold water, place the mass on the fire, and let it come just to a boil. strain the syrup so made into a granite saucepan, and add one teaspoonful of vinegar and the amount of red pepper that the point of a knife will hold. place the mixture on the fire, and when the mass begins to boil, put a wooden cover over the pan. continue the boiling for several minutes; thoroughly "steam down" the side of the pan. by "steaming down" the side of the pan is meant confining the steam which rises from cooking so that it will free the sides of the pan from the accumulation of the mass that is cooking. remove the cover, insert a thermometer, and cook the mass to three hundred and thirty-five degrees. thereupon stir in one tablespoonful of butter, remove the mass from the fire, add one teaspoonful of salt, and baking soda the size of a large pea. thoroughly mix the mass, and pour it between candy-bars on a well oiled marble slab. as the confection sets, mark it off in squares, and be sure to run the knife under the whole sheet to free it from the marble. unless the sheet is so freed from the marble it will be sure to stick so that it can be handled only with difficulty. when the mass is cooled, it will easily break into the squares into which it has been marked. for preserving, pack the tablets in tin boxes. for those who do not like so much red pepper, the quantity may be regulated to suit. the amount of onion used may also be increased or diminished as the taste of the candy-maker dictates. xix oriental paste this confection is easily made from purely vegetable ingredients, and has the pleasing consistency and flavor of the turkish pastes. the gelatine that is used comes from an aquatic plant--instead of from the usual source. it can now be obtained in specialty stores and in some of the grocery stores of the larger cities. cut one-half of an ounce of japanese gelatine into fine pieces, and pour over it two cupsful of warm water. ordinary gelatine can not be substituted. let it stand for at least two hours. the results will be much better if the soaking is allowed to take a whole night. set this gelatine water on the fire and stir it until it comes to a boil and the gelatine is wholly dissolved. mix one pound of sugar and one-half of a pound of glucose; into them strain the gelatine. set the resulting mixture on the fire and cook it until it is very stringy as it drops from the paddle. when stirring, scrape the bottom of the kettle well as the mixture sticks very easily. run a half pound of figs through a grinder. when the gelatine mass is cooked, as above, remove it from the fire, add a few drops of oil of lemon or a teaspoonful of lemon extract, and thoroughly mix in the figs. dust a marble slab with confectioner's sugar, place candy bars in position, and pour the mass between them so as to form about one-half inch thick. if the candy is allowed to cool a little before it is poured out, and is carefully stirred, the figs will not separate and come to the top. dust the top with the sugar and let it remain over night. to finish the confection, cut it into squares by simply pressing the knife down through it. roll the pieces in confectioner's sugar, and pack them in an air-tight box. =seaweed.=--this gelatine called for by this receipt is also known as japanese isinglass, agar-agar, and kanten. it is peculiar to japan. it is made from seaweed, the great unused resource of the western world. the orient alone to any extent uses seaweed as a food, and, of the orient, only japan shows appreciation of its agricultural and commercial value. kanten is the product of five hundred manufacturing plants in japan, with an annual output of over three million pounds. the usual commercial gelatine is made from animal tissues--skin, ligaments, tendons, or the matrix of bones, particularly of horns and hoofs. seaweed as a source for gelatine appeals somewhat more to the imagination! kanten is made from the gelidium family of seaweed which grows in deep water upon the rocks. coolies dive for the seaweed. they wash and dry it by the seaside, and sell it at seven or eight cents a pound to the factories for gelatine manufacture. the perfect purity of kanten is proved by its use as a culture medium in bacteriological work. gelidium grows on both coasts of america from canada to the gulf. this is true, also, of red laver which is largely used as a food in japan and unknown here. in japan it is baked or toasted until crisp and used in sauces and soups. it is palatable, and nutritious, being rich in proteids. red laver is not abundant in japan and is being cultivated. sea farming is becoming an important industry under the supervision of the government. the red laver beds are now rented out by the season to the sea farmers with average crop returns of one hundred and fifty dollars per acre. kelp, also, is utilized in japan, not alone for glue, sizing and iodine, but as a food--kombu. in this country, it is sometimes used to fertilize the low-lying, barren lands near the shore. in the marketing of the vegetable sea food known as irish moss, new england comes to the fore. this is a delicious food product used much as corn starch for blancmange, jellies, custards, and puddings. in a book relating to candy-making, why this information concerning the unappreciated food value of seaweed? because the discovery of the possibilities that cheap and common vegetables can well serve as the basis for the best candy may well be supplemented by the utilization of seaweeds, valuable as a food, but now wasted. in the midst of her work, the candy-cook may well stop to think that it is by putting cheap and common things to new uses that the race will make material progress. xx stuffed fruits =dates for candy.=--for the basis of dates as candies, fard dates are perhaps the best because they are generally whole with unbroken skins. if persian dates are to be used instead, they should be of the sort that come packed in single layers or in small boxes. the skins of persian dates are tender and when taken from boxes holding fifteen or twenty pounds are torn by the sharp pick used to handle them. when cream fillings are used, however, softer dates can be substituted if they are carefully handled. =sparkling dates.=--wash, steam, pit, and dry. fill them with rhubarb marmalade, and close them very tightly. brush the whole outside surface with the unbeaten white of an egg, and roll the dates so coated in coarse granulated sugar. if fard dates cannot be obtained, select as perfect persian dates as possible. fill them with rhubarb marmalade as for the fard dates, but do not use the egg coating. simply roll in the sugar. =chocolate covered dates.=--proceed as above up to the point at which the dates are rolled in sugar. to make the chocolate confection, roll the dates in confectioner's sugar, instead of in the coarse granulated. after they have dried, coat them as usual with chocolate. =date brilliants.=--wash, steam, and pit dates; fill them with either vegetable cream or cream fondant. dip them singly in a crystal syrup, cooked to two hundred and twenty-five degrees. dry them on a rack. for fillings, a great variety is possible. add finely chopped nuts or granulated cocoanut to the vegetable cream, or use rhubarb marmalade, tart jam, or orange marmalade. =rhubarb marmalade.=--the fillings suggested for date brilliants are all within the knowledge of the candy-cook, except, perhaps, rhubarb marmalade. as the basis for it, wipe clean with a damp cloth stalks of rhubarb. they must not be put into water. peel them and cut them into very thin slices. cover each pound of rhubarb with one and one-quarter pounds of granulated sugar. let the mixture stand over night. in the morning, boil it for ten minutes, or a little longer if the rhubarb is not soft. grind one-third of a pound of dried figs; remove the rhubarb and sugar from the fire; to them add the figs and stir until they are thoroughly mixed. boil ten minutes more. the marmalade should be put into glasses while hot, and sealed at once. =sugared dates.=--prepare dates and fill as for date brilliants; dip them in syrup, and, while still damp, dust with granulated sugar. =stuffed dates.=--fill with any cream or marmalade and roll in granulated sugar, dates washed, strained, steamed and pitted. =stuffed prunes.=--the sort of prunes that come in boxes are better to use than the ordinary ones because they are of a better quality, and are separated in the curing. barely cover the prunes with cold water, and allow them to stand over night. one method is to pour the water off the next morning, pit the prunes, and use them as they are. if the prunes are moist and firm to begin with, the soaking is probably all that is necessary. otherwise the second method is the one to be followed. if so, after the prunes have been soaked, place them over the fire and allow them to come to a boil quickly. this application of heat is sure to plump out prunes that have become dry, or have been over-cured. the difficulty, however, is that there is danger that the juice will be started, and much of it lost, and that the skins may be broken. the second method will destroy the raw taste to which some persons object. no matter which method has been followed, fill each prune with tart jam, orange marmalade, rhubarb marmalade, or with potato fondant, cooked or uncooked, with or without the addition of nuts. to finish, coat each prune with the unbeaten white of an egg, and roll in granulated sugar. if it is desired, they can be rolled in confectioner's sugar, dried and coated with chocolate. xxi angelique =rings.=--angelique is a vegetable that is of the greatest use as an accessory in the making of many sorts of vegetable candy. that fact, however, should not obscure the equally important fact that its flavor is excellent and that it may well be used as a base. rings made from it are very good if filled with any one of the four mixtures described below. and, as the reader will see by looking at no. 15 of the frontispiece, they are good to look upon. [illustration: angelica archangelica] as a beginning, no matter what filling is to be chosen, cut crystallized angelique cross-wise into sections a quarter of an inch wide. if these sections are flattened by packing or cutting, separate the sides so that they form circles, the more nearly perfect the better. the fillings may be either potato fondant, plain or colored, and flavored to taste; potato fondant with chopped nuts worked into it; equal parts of potato fondant and almond paste; or rhubarb marmalade, with confectioner's sugar worked into it if it appears too moist. when the fillings are in place, each ring should be dipped separately into a crystal, cooked to two hundred and twenty degrees, and then should be allowed to drain on a wire rack. the next day the process should be repeated. when the rings have become thoroughly dry, they will be found very useful for almost any sort of serving or packing. the outside is firm, and the centers soft. =orange rings.=--rings made from candied orange peel may be treated similarly. cut the peel into rings by using one-half and one quarter inch cutters. thereafter both process and fillings are the same. an interesting combination can be made by arranging three small orange rings in a cluster, and holding them in position by the syrup. in addition to the filling, a pignolia nut may be placed in each ring. see no. 19 of the frontispiece. =angelique as a plant.=--angelique or angelica is so called because in early centuries it was thought to be a specific for poison and pestilence. it is an aromatic garden herb, of an order of plants of the cohort umbelliferae, known popularly as the parsley family. the order is one of strongly marked properties. some of its members contain an aromatic oil and furnish condiments--as anise, dill, caraway, and coriander. from another group these qualities are nearly absent and the stem and leaf are edible--as in celery, angelique and parsley; or the root--as in carrot and parsnip. angelique is native to many temperate parts of europe and america. it grows on river banks and in other damp places. it is easily cultivated and often grows to the height of six feet. its seeds may be sown in the autumn as soon as they are ripe, or they may be planted in the spring. angelique develops a plant much like celery. it is blanched and eaten the same way. the stalk is used commercially when crystallized or candied. it is green in color and pleasingly pungent in flavor, and lends itself in many ways to the use of the candy-maker. it comes generally in strips six or seven inches long and is cut according to the special directions for the different candies. angelique is so easy to raise and is of such value that two methods of handling it when home grown are given below. why so many candy-makers with gardens continue to buy it when it can be cultivated so easily is a mystery. =preserved green angelique.=--select angelique that is fresh, young, crisp, and as tender as possible. cut the stalks into six inch lengths; wash them thoroughly. boil them in water for ten minutes, and drain them. thereupon, boil them in a syrup for half an hour. let them cool in the syrup. store in wide-mouthed bottles or jars. =dried angelique.=--prepare the angelique as before. cut the stalks into strips, lozenges, or large and small rings. boil them in the syrup three or four times--as was directed before. after draining, roll each piece in powdered sugar. dry them thoroughly on a screen, and store carefully. xxii for the caterer vegetable candy opens up a new field for the caterer. it furnishes him material that is not only cheaper but better than that with which he has been accustomed to work. not only are the results better, but they are achieved by the expenditure of much less effort. potato fondant can be made to assume clear outlines without the hour after hour beating required by the traditional french methods. moreover, the caterer's customers can have the satisfaction of knowing that the pretty things that they are buying are not made with the help of plaster of paris or other ingredients of which the less there is said the better! the caterer should take particular note of the illustration facing page 138. it will suggest many of the uses to which the new mediums can be put. the caterer, also, should read with particular care the chapter relating to decorative candy. chapter and illustration together will furnish him with ideas as to how he can make use of this discovery in his own profession. of course, for success, absolute familiarity with the processes of vegetable candy-making is essential. there are a few definite points which should be borne in mind, however, by the person who wishes to use vegetable candy in catering. flowers can be wired and used as bouquets. as will be seen from the illustration facing the next page, to hold candles for use on birthday cakes there is no need to use the objectionable wire cups. smaller flower cups made from potato fondant can be substituted. an excellent method is to use them in the border. there, they are not only useful but highly decorative. nor need there be used cups made from starch, plaster of paris, or other inedible mixtures. the possibilities of using potato fondant as the base for fancy cups to hold ice creams and ices are unlimited. for instance, the fondant can be molded into cups of conventionalized flower designs. the caterer should remember that these cups should be dipped one or more times in a crystal syrup. this will not only make them resemble somewhat the ever popular spun sugar, but will tend to make them impervious to the melting ices or creams. as a result, the fondant itself will retain its crispness. a similar use is for novel containers for salted almonds and nut meats. [illustration: for the caterer] one great advantage of the use of objects made from vegetable candy is that they may very easily be made to follow the color schemes used at luncheons or dinners. the color may be very easily applied to the exterior or may be worked into the mass itself before it is molded. just how these operations should be followed will readily be seen by re-reading chapter viii, division iii, "decorative candies from potato fondant." for instance, if pink is the color for the luncheon, wild roses easily suggest themselves as promising decorations. the form of the wild rose lends itself readily to cups,--the larger ones for ices and the smaller for nuts. if the function is a birthday, wild roses may well be used for candle cups on cakes. if not a birthday, and decorative icing is desired for large or small cakes, nothing could be prettier than the roses. they can be used either as a border of conventional regularity around a large cake or in the center of small, round cakes covered with white icing. as a flower decoration, candy wild roses can be placed in a vase in the middle of the table. to carry the place cards, there may be a butterfly alighting upon each rose cup holding nuts. these butterflies can be made of vegetable candy, water color paper, or bolting cloth; whatever their material, they must be wired, or glued, with a few drops of crystal syrup, to the edge of the rose. if, however, the luncheon is to be violet, other decorations can be used. the center piece may be a large bunch of pop-corn violets. at each plate there may be french baskets, made from potato fondant colored pale violet, filled with cocoanut violets. to give the idea that the baskets have just come from the florist's, to each there may well be tied a card bearing the name of the guest. in this instance, it would be well for the ice to be served in a fondant basket and capped with a few violets. the caterer will readily see that vegetable candy offers itself in countless ways in connection with place cards. the new candy can not only be used as the holder for daintily designed cards, but the design itself may be painted directly upon the object modeled from potato fondant or potato paste. the first method is likely to be rather more easy in its process and attractive in its results, on the whole, but the second has the distinction of novelty. it surely is an interesting thing for the guests to be able to eat their place cards, decoration, design, and all! for easter, yellow is a particularly good color. for ices, cups and cases can be made of white and yellow fondant modeled in the form of jonquils or daffodils. carrot rings, served with the salad course, would add a touch of variety. as is suggested in the chapter concerning decorative candies, potato fondant can be made to serve the table decorator especially well for special times and functions. insignia can easily be formed of fondant, either as separate forms to be wired and used as place cards or as place cards attached to the little cases--paper or fondant. a masonic dinner, for instance, would use the square and compass in different ways, and one for the odd fellows would make use of their three links. for college banquets, the appropriate greek letter insignia could be used. in this case, however, the caterer must make sure that he is not violating any of the rules of the societies to which his guests belong. for any decoration that is flat instead of modeled, the potato paste can be substituted for the potato fondant. thus, in the case last cited above, many of the insignia can be cut from paste more easily than they can be modeled from fondant. a tinsmith can easily make a cutter that will save time if a number of the same design are desired. the paste can be used with the fondant, either in the same object or separately for the same occasion. vegetable candy can be made by the skillful amateur as readily as by the manufacturer. no large plant or complicated machinery is required. as a result, the girl or woman with a skill that is great, but a bank account that is small, may find vegetable candy the road to a profitable catering trade. if in a small town, she can--if she is sufficiently skillful--fashion decorations for food that will rival the products of the art of the city caterer. moreover, inasmuch as she is put to comparatively little expense, and is using comparatively cheap ingredients, she can undersell her urban competitor. and her fellow townswomen who buy her wares will have the distinct satisfaction of knowing that her product is free from harmful ingredients. xxiii for the teacher the discovery of vegetable candy has been of great pedagogic value. teachers of household arts and all art are beginning to find that the new bases are of great service to them in their class work. before this discovery, there was no medium which was of use for both cooking and the modeling classes. now cooking classes and modeling classes can be correlated in such a way that much is promised both. the processes in the making of potato fondant and potato paste illustrate fundamental principles in domestic science. with the exercise of a little care on the part of the teacher, their making can be as simple and educationally valuable as the traditional first lesson in peppermint drops. in the fashioning of these new candies, however, there is more incentive to the child than there was in the cooking of the old-fashioned confection, no matter how delectable it might be. but the pedagogic value of vegetable candy does not fall wholly within the field of household arts. as has been explained in the chapter concerning decorative candy, potato fondant and paste are the basis of very attractive objects. their fashioning, obviously, can be made to teach principles of line, design and color. is it not safe to say that no other modeling medium--edible or inedible--possesses this threefold recommendation? fondant or paste can be colored by painting directly upon the finished surfaces, or the coloring matter can be worked into the mass. in either case, there is a pleasing relief from the gray or green of clay and its preparations. now the child can model in natural colors what he sees on his nature study rambles. now he can make roses in their natural colorings and shadings, and buds that are not wholly a dull, dead green! moreover, potato fondant can be modeled so as to have clearer outlines than clay. there are two disadvantages, however, which should be stated: first, potato fondant must be handled with moderate quickness in order to give the best results, and, second, it is so good that there is danger that the pupil will prematurely eat his lesson! because the finished product is good to eat as well as to look upon, potato fondant as a modeling medium adds to the teacher's resources another incentive for the child. in work with defective children, it has been found, again and again, that the more senses to which appeal can be made, the better. do not the same principles apply to the normal child, although with somewhat lessened force? in art work with vegetable candy, sight and touch are not the only senses in operation; taste and smell are in full play. often, teachers of both art and household arts are perplexed when it comes time for the annual school exhibition. "what can we do," they ask, "that will be properly illustrative of our work and, at the same time, of appeal to the popular imagination?" it is hoped that vegetable candy offers an answer to this question. its novelty and hygienic value are such that parents of the children are interested in it. moreover, the unusual interest of the children themselves has been known to react upon the parents. suggestions for the details of working out the school use of vegetable candy will be found in the pages which precede. the teachers should read with particular care the chapter which refers to decorative candy, and particularly the division relating to modeling. they will find many hints as to how it can be successfully applied to their own school work. the end index index abel, mrs. mary h., on value of sugar in diet, 48. accuracy, necessity for, 3. almonds, celtic, 86. angelique, dried, 135; preserved green, 135; plant, 133; rings, 132. apples, red, as decorative candies, 70. bars, for forming masses, 14-15. bars, chocolate, 87. "ball," "hard," 19, 22; "soft," 19, 22. bean, 102-104; bean taffy, 103; candied green beans, 102; nut bean taffy, 104; pulled taffy, 104. beet, 105-109; beet cubes, 107; beet puffs, 106; crystallized beets, 108; frosted beet slice, 105; spiced beets, 109; spiced beet bon-bons, 109. boiler, use of double, 24, 25. bon-bons, spiced beet, 109. bon-bon dipper, 8. boutonnieres, parsnip, 95-96; violet, 59-60. brilliants, date, 129; date, with rhubarb marmalade, 130. burs, nut, 114. calla lily, as decorative candy, 69. caramel, opera, 83; potato, 80-83. carrot, 97-101; crystallized, 98; garden "ginger," 99; rings, 97; rolls, 98. caterer, the, 136-142; coloring for, 138; cups, 137; decorations, 139, 140; flowers, 137; potato fondant for, 136. celtic almonds, 86. chocolate, bars, 87; coating, 36-40; covered dates, 129; in crystallization, 27; marshmallow, 112; nougatines, 114; peppermints, 86. child, the, craving for sweets of, vii, viii; sugar for, viii, 47-51; mrs. mary hinman abel on, 48. cleanliness, necessity for, 4. climatic conditions, in candy making, 4; in chocolate coating, 35, 36. cocoanut violets, 58. cold tablets, onion, 120. cornlettes, 117; nut, 118. corn starch, for drying, 18. "crack," 19, 22. creams, pecan, 85; raisin, 85; vegetable, 88. crystallization, 27-32; beets, 108; chocolate in, 27; crystal syrup, 28, 29; french hand, 30; basis for parsnip candy, 93; sugar, 28. crystallized beets, 108. crystal syrup, 28, 29. dates, candy, 128; chocolate covered, 129; date brilliants, 129; rhubarb marmalade for, 130; sparkling dates, 128; stuffed dates, 130; sugared, 130. decorative candies, 52-79; from potato paste, 52-57; green leaves, 56; potato paste, 53; violets, 57-61; cocoanut violets, 58; pop-corn violets, 57; violet boutonnieres, 59, 60; from potato fondant, 61-79; calla lily, 69; coloring for, 64-66; cooked potato fondant, 62; daisy, white, 66; daisy, yellow, 69; grapes, 77; modeled candy, 62; new potato, 75; parsnip boutonniere, 95; pea pod, 76; red apples, 70; rose buds, 74; single rose, 72; snow balls, 76; uncooked potato fondant, 61; white daisy, 66; yellow daisy, 69. degrees, on candy thermometer, 22. dishes, white enamel best, 12. dipper, bon-bon, 8. double boiler, use of, 24, 25. dropping funnel, 11. fondant, potato, decorative candies from, 61-79; calla lily, 69; coloring for, 64-66; cooked potato fondant, 62; daisy, white, 66; daisy, yellow, 69; grapes, 77; modeled candy, 62; new potato, 75; parsnip boutonniere, 95; pea pod, 76; red apples, 70; rose buds, 74; single rose, 72; snow balls, 76; uncooked potato fondant, 61; white daisy, 66; yellow daisy, 69. frosted beet slice, 105. funnel, dropping, 11. fruits, stuffed, 128-131; dates, 128; dates, chocolate covered, 129; date brilliants, 129; rhubarb marmalade for, 129; dates, stuffed, 130; dates, sugared, 130; stuffed prunes, 130. garden "ginger," 99. gelidium, 125. "ginger," garden, 99. glucose, 46. grapes, in decorative candy, 77. green leaves, in decorative candy, 56. "hard ball," 19, 22. "hard crack," 19, 22. hook, taffy, 13. irish moss, 126. kanten, 125. kelp, 126. knife, special, 12, 13; for cutting in, 14; palette, 55. knots, sweet potato, 91. marshmallow, chocolate, 112; tomato, 110. mat, rubber, 9. mocha walnuts, 84. modeled candy, 62-64. modeling stick, 16. moss, irish, 126. netting, wire, used in draining fruits, 5, 17. nougatines, chocolate, 114; vegetable, 112. novice, help for the, 3-7. nut burs, 114. nut cornlettes, 118. onion cold tablets, 120. orange rings, 133. oriental paste, 123. packing, of candies, 6. parsnip, 93-96; boutonnieres, 95-96; candied, 93-95. paste, oriental, 123; potato, 52; potato, use by teachers, 143. pastilles, sweet potato, 92. patties, sweet potato, 90. pea pods, in decorative candies, 76. pecan creams, 85. peppermint chocolates, 86. pop-corn violets, 57. potato, new, in decorative candy, 75; caramels, 80-83; celtic almonds, 86; chocolate bars, 87; mocha walnuts, 84; pecan creams, 85; peppermint chocolates, 86; raisin creams, 85; sweet potato, 90-92; knots, 91; pastilles, 92; patties, 90. potato fondant, decorative candies from, 61-79; cooked, 62; uncooked, 61; modeled candy from, 62; coloring for, 64-66; calla lily, 69; daisy, white, 66; daisy, yellow, 69; grapes, 77; modeled candy 62; new potato, 75; parsnip boutonniere, 95; pea pod, 76; red apples, 70; rose buds, 74; single rose, 72; snow balls, 76; white daisy, 66; yellow daisy, 69. potato paste, 52. prunes, stuffed, 130. pulling taffy, 6, 7. racks, for drying, 17. raisin creams, 85. red apples, in decorative candy, 70. rings, angelique, 132; carrot, 97; orange, 133. rose, buds, as decorative candy, 74; single, as decorative candy, 72. scale, thermometer, 22. screens, 17. sea weed, as food, 124; gelidium, 125; irish moss, 126; kanten, 125; kelp, 126. snow balls, in decorative candy, 76. soapstone, used as working slab, 5. sparkling dates, 128. spiced beets, 109. spiced beet bon-bons, 109. steam, candy making, 24-26; double boiler, use of, 24, 25; steaming, 24; steam bath, 25. stuffed fruits, 128-131; dates, 128; dates, chocolate covered, 129; date brilliants, 129: rhubarb marmalade for, 129; dates, stuffed, 130; dates, sugared, 130; stuffed prunes, 130. sugar 41-51; for children, 47-51; for crystallization, 28; glucose, 46; rolling candies in, 5, 6; value of, 41-43; varieties of, 44. sugared dates, 130. sweet potato, knots, 91; pastilles, 92; patties, 90. sweets, necessity of, i, ii, viii. tablets, onion cold, 120. taffy, bean, 103; nut bean, 104; pulling, 6, 7. taffy hook, 13. teacher, the, 143-146; potato paste or fondant as medium for, 144. thermometer, 19-23; scales, 22; "crack," 19, 22; "hard ball," 19, 22; "hard crack," 19, 22; "soft ball," 19, 22; "thread," 19, 22. "thread," 19, 22. tomato, 110-116; chocolate marshmallow, 112; chocolate nougatine, 114; nut burs, 114; tomato marshmallow, 110; vegetable nougatine, 112. utensils, bars, forming, 14, 15; bon-bon dippers, 8; dropping funnel, 11; knife, for cutting in, 14; knife, palette, 55; knife, special, 12, 13; modeling stick, 17; rubber mat, 9; screens, 17; taffy hook, 13; wooden spoon and paddle, 12. vegetable candy, keeping quality of, ii; modeling medium, iv; sociological value of, iv. vegetable creams, 88. vegetable nougatines, 112. violets, 57-61; boutonnieres, 59, 60; cocoanut, 58; pop-corn, 57. walnuts, mocha, 84. weather, influence on candy making, 4, 35. white daisy, as decorative candy, 66. working slab, soapstone used as, 5. wooden utensils, spoon and paddle, 12. yellow daisy, as decorative candy, 69. * * * * * transcriber's notes: obvious punctuation errors repaired. =bold text= is indicated by equal signs and _italic text_ by underscores. the illustration captioned "fascinating to the child" has been moved from page ii to page 72 as that is where the text references it more than once. second illustration: "discription" changed to "description" (see description) table of contents, "cornlet" changed to "cornlette" (xvii cornlette) page viii, "marshmellows" changed to "marshmallows" (caramels, marshmallows and) page 16, "particularily" changed to "particularly" (is particularly useful) page 154, "66" changed to "69" (yellow daisy, as decorative candy, 69) of the digital library@villanova university (http://digital.library.villanova.edu/)) ****************************************************************** transcriber's note: i have never seen a health warning on a book before but i have been asked to provide one here. some of the ingredients used in these procedures are toxic to say the least. for instance, the recipe for ching's brown worm lozenges on p40 contains the line: 'each lozenge should contain half a grain of mercury.' now, times and attitudes may change but mercury does not. as a record of how things were done the volume is fine but as a recipe book danger lurks in these pages. unless you are very, very sure of what you are doing please treat this as a reference book, not a practical guide. more mundane note at the end of the book. ****************************************************************** how to make candy. a complete hand book. for making all kinds of candy, ice cream syrups, essences etc. etc. new york: frank tousey, publisher 34 and 36 north moore street. entered according to act of congress, in the year 1891, by frank tousey, in the office of the librarian of congress at washington, d.c. how to make candy. confectionery. as sugar is the basis or groundwork of the confectioner's art, it is essentially necessary that the practitioner should carefully study and observe the difference in its qualities, the changes which it undergoes or effects when combined with other articles in the process of manufacture, and also the different forms which it assumes by itself, at various stages. without this knowledge, a man will never become a thorough and efficient workman, and it can only be acquired by practice and experience. the first process which it undergoes, in the hands of the confectioner, is that of clarification. it is conducted on the same principle as the refining of sugar, although not carried out in every particular. clarification of raw sugar.--for every six pounds of sugar required to be clarified, take one quart of water, the white of an egg, and about half a tea-cupful of bullock's blood. less than a pint will be sufficient for 112 pounds; but if a very fine, transparent, and colorless syrup is required, use either charcoal, finely powdered, or ivory-black, instead of the blood. put the white of an egg in the water, and whisk it to a froth; then add either of the other articles mentioned, and the sugar; place the pan containing the ingredients on the stove-fire, and stir them well with the spatula, until the sugar is dissolved, and is nearly boiling. when the ebullition commences, throw in a little cold water to check it; this causes the coarser parts to separate more freely, by which means the whole of the impurities attach themselves to the clarifying matter used; continue this for about five minutes, using about one pint of water to every six pounds of sugar, or more, until you consider the whole of the dross is discharged, and there remains a fine clear syrup. then place it by the side of the stove, and carefully remove with a skimmer the scum which has formed on the top; it may also be taken off as it rises, but i find the best method is to let it remain a short time after it is clarified, before it is removed; otherwise, if you take it off as it rises, part of the syrup is also taken with it. when either charcoal or black is used, it must be passed through a filtering-bag, made of thick flannel, in the shape of a cone, having a hoop fastened round the top, to keep it extended, and to which strings are sewn, that it may be tied or suspended in any convenient manner; what runs out at first will be quite black; return this again into the bag, and continue doing so until it runs fine and clear. if a little lime, about a spoonful, or any other alkali is added to the sugar, with the water, etc., it will neutralize the acid which all raw sugars contain, and they will be found to stand much better after they have been manufactured, by not taking the damp so soon. this is not generally done by the trade, but it will be found beneficial if practiced. to clarify loaf sugar.--this is clarified by mixing the whites of eggs with water, without any other assistance, for having been previously refined, it does not require those auxiliaries again to separate the coarser parts, unless it is of an inferior quality, or an extra fine syrup, as for bonbons and other fancy articles, as required. when it is necessary to have a very fine sparkling grain, in that case break your lump into small pieces, and put it in a preserving-pan, with a sufficient quantity of water to dissolve it, in which has been mixed the white of an egg and powdered charcoal; as for raw sugar, following those instructions already given. after the sugar has been drained from the bag, pass some water through, to take off any which may be left in the charcoal, which you use for dissolving more sugar. the scum should always be reserved when charcoal or black is not used, to mix with the articles of an inferior quality. the best refined loaf sugar should be white, dry, fine, of a brilliant sparkling appearance, when broken, and as close in texture as possible. the best sort of brown has a bright, sparkling, and gravelly look. east india sugars appear finer, but do not contain so much saccharine matter, yet they are much used for manufacturing the best sort of common sweetmeats, when clarified, instead of loaf sugar. degrees of boiling sugar.--this is the principal point to which the confectioner has to direct his attention; for if he is not expert in this particular, all his other labor and knowledge will be useless; it is the foundation on which he must build to acquire success in his undertakings. there are seven essential points or degrees in boiling sugar; some authors give thirteen, but many of these are useless, and serve only to show critical precision in the art, without its being required in practice; however, for exactness, we will admit of nine, viz: 1. small thread. 2. large thread. 3. little pearl. 4. large pearl. 5. the blow. 6. the feather. 7. ball. 8. crack. 9. caramel. this last degree derives its name from "a count albufage caramel, who discovered this method of boiling sugar." in describing the process, i shall proceed in a different manner to other writers on the subject, by classing it under different heads, according to the uses to which it is applied. syrup. under this head are comprised the degrees from the small thread to the large pearl; for at these points the sugar is kept in a divided state, and remains a fluid of an oily consistency. a bottle which holds three ounces of water will contain four ounces of syrup. the method of ascertaining those degrees, according to the usages of the trade, is as follows: small thread.--having placed the clarified syrup on the fire, let it boil a little, then dip the top of your finger in the boiling syrup, and on taking it out apply it to the top of your thumb, when, if it has attained the degree, on separating them a small ring will be drawn out a little distance, about as fine as a hair, which will break, and resolve itself into a drop on the thumb and finger. large thread.--continue the boiling a little longer, repeat the same operation as before, and a larger string will be drawn. little pearl.--to ascertain this degree, separate the finger from the thumb as before, and a large string may be drawn, which will extend to nearly the distance the fingers may be opened. large pearl.--the finger may now be separated from the thumb to the greatest extent, before the thread will break. crystallization. this takes the degrees of the blow and feather. the particles of the sugar being now brought together within the sphere of their activity, the attraction of cohesion commences, whereby they attach themselves together and form quadrilateral pyramids, with oblong and rectangular bases. this is generally, but improperly, termed candy, thereby confounding it with the degrees at which it grains, also termed candy. this certainly seems "confusion worse confounded;" but if things are called by their proper names, many of those seeming difficulties and technicalities may be avoided, which tend only to confuse and embarrass the young practitioner, without gaining any desired end or purpose. if it were generally classed into the degrees of crystallization, the true meaning and use would at once be explained, and understood by the greatest novice. the nature and principle of this operation are these. first, as in the case of syrup, (the first four degrees,) _when the water has absorbed as much sugar as it is capable of containing in a cold state_, by continuing the boiling a further portion of the solvent (water) is evaporated, and sugar remains in excess, which, when exposed to a less degree of heat, separates itself, and forms crystals on the surface and sides of the vessel in which it is contained, and also on anything placed or suspended in it. but if it is exposed too suddenly to the cold, or disturbed in its action by being shaken, or if the boiling has been continued too long, the crystals will form irregularly, by the particles being brought in too close contact, and run too hastily together, forming a mass or lump. to obtain this part in perfection the boiling should be gradual, and continued no longer than till a few drops let fall on a cold surface show a crystalline appearance, or after being removed from the fire, a _thin_ skin will form on the surface. it should then be taken from the fire, and placed in _a less hot, but not cold_ place, and covered, or put into a stove or hot closet, to prevent the access of cold air. a few drops of spirits of wine, added when the sugar has attained the proper degree, will conduce to a more perfect crystalline form, scarcely attainable by any other means, as it has a great affinity with the water, thereby causing the sugar to separate itself more freely. it must be used with caution, as too much will cause it to grain. to ascertain the degree of the blow.--continue the boiling of the sugar, dip a skimmer in it, and shake it over the pan, then blow through the holes, and if small bubbles or air-bladders are seen on the other side, it has acquired this degree. the feather.--dip the skimmer again into the sugar, and blow through the holes as before, and the bubbles will appear larger, and stronger. or if you give the skimmer a sudden jerk, so as to throw the sugar from you, when it has acquired the degree, it will appear hanging from the skimmer in fine long strings. candy. sugar, after it has passed the degree of the feather, is of itself naturally inclined to grain; that is, to candy, and will form a powder, if agitated or stirred; for, as the boiling is continued, so is the water evaporated until there is nothing left to hold it in solution; therefore, that body being destroyed by heat, which first changed its original form to those we have already enumerated, as this no longer exists with it, it naturally returns to the same state as it was before the solvent was added, which is that of minute crystals, or grains, being held together by the attraction of cohesion, unless, as before stated, they are separated by stirring, etc. the sugar being evaporated by boiling from the last degree, leaves a thin crust of crystals round the sides of the pan, which shows it has attained the candy height; and this crust must be carefully removed (as it forms) with a damp cloth or sponge, or the whole mass will candy if suffered to remain. to prevent this is the chief desideratum, all further proceedings for which specific rules will be given in their proper places. the remaining degrees can be ascertained after the following manner: the ball.--provide a jug of clean cold water, and a piece of round stick. first dip in the water, then in the sugar, and again in the water,[a] take off the sugar which has adhered to it, and endeavor to roll it into a ball between the finger and thumb, in the water; when this can be done, it has attained the desired degree. if it forms a large, hard ball, which will bite hard, and adhere to the teeth, when eaten, it is then termed the large ball, _et contra_. [footnote a: this should be performed as speedily as possible.] the crack.--follow the directions given for the ball. slip the sugar from off the stick, still holding it in the water, then press it between the finger and thumb; if it breaks short and crisp, with a slight noise, it is at the crack. caramel.--to obtain this degree, it requires care and attention, and also to be frequently tried, as it passes speedily from the crack to the caramel. try it as before directed, and let the water be quite cold, or you will be deceived. if, on taking it off the stick, it snaps like glass, with a loud noise, it has attained the proper degree; it will also, when it arrives at this point, assume a beautiful yellow color; after this it will speedily burn, taking all the hues, from a brown to a black; therefore, to prevent this, dip the bottom of the pan into a pail of cold water, as soon as it comes to caramel, as the heat which is contained in the pan and sugar is sufficient to advance it one degree; also, be careful that the flame of the fire does not ascend round the sides of the pan, which will burn it. in boiling sugar keep the top of the pan partly covered from the time it commences boiling until it has attained the ball or crack; the steam which rises being again thrown on the sides, prevents the formation of the crust or crystals. to prevent its graining, add a little of any sort of acid, when it is at the crack--a table-spoonful of common vinegar, four or five drops of lemon-juice, or two or three drops of pyroligneous acid: any of these will have the desired effect. this is termed greasing it. but remember that too much acid will also grain it; neither can it be boiled to caramel if there is too much. a little butter, added when it first commences boiling, will keep it from rising over the pan, and also prevent its graining. about as much cream of tartar as may be laid on a sixpence, and added to seven pounds of sugar, with the water, or equal quantities of cream of tartar and alum in powder, added when it boils, will also keep it from candying. if sugar is poured on a slab that is too hot, it is very apt to grain; this is frequently the case after several casts have been worked off in rotation; therefore, when you find it inclined to turn, remove it to a cooler spot, if possible, and not handle it any more than is necessary. sugar that has been often boiled or warmed is soon acted upon by the atmosphere, whereby it becomes clammy, and soon runs, as it is weakened by the action of the fire. acid causes the same effect. if it has passed the degree you intended to boil it at, add a little water, and give it another boil. blanc mange. take four ounces of sweet almonds, blanched, half an ounce of bitter almonds; pound them in a clean mortar; moisten them gradually with orange flower-water; mix this with one quart of fresh cream and one ounce of clarified isinglass; put into a saucepan, constantly stirring till it boils; then pass through a fine sieve, and form into a mold, and put on ice. _blanc mange_ may be flavored with vanilla, mocho coffee, marischino, pistachios and strawberries; in which case the bitter almonds should be left out. candy--bonbon--conserve. the articles that come under this head are made by the sugar being brought to the ball, when it is grained by rubbing it against the sides of the pan. from this all fancy articles are made, such as fruit-eggs, cups, vases, etc. burnt almonds.--take some fine valencia or jordon almonds, and sift all the dust from them; put a pint of clarified syrup into the pan for each pound of almonds, and place it with the almonds on the fire; boil to the ball, then take it off and stir the mixture well with a spatula, that the sugar may grain and become almost a powder; whilst each almond has a coating. put them into a coarse wire or cane sieve, and sift all the loose sugar from them, and also separate those which stick together. when cold, boil some more clarified syrup to the feather, put in the almonds, give them two or three boils in it, take them from the fire, and stir them with the spatula as before, until the sugar grains; sift and separate them, and keep them in glasses or boxes. a third coat may be given them in the same manner as the second, if they are required large. burnt almonds--red.--the same as the last, using prepared cochineal to color the syrup while it is boiling. common burnt almonds.--these are made with raw sugar and skimmings, if you have any. put some water with the sugar to dissolve it; when it is near boiling, add the almonds, and let them boil in it until it comes to the small ball; or when the almonds crack, take them from the fire, and stir them with a spatula until the sugar grains and becomes nearly a powder; put them into a sieve, and separate the lumps. artificial fruit, eggs, etc.--prepare molds with plaster of paris from the natural objects you wish to represent; make them in two, three, or more pieces, so as to relieve freely, and have a hole at one end into which the sugar may be poured; let them be made so as each part may be fitted together exactly; and for this purpose make two or three round or square indentions on the edge of one part, so that the corresponding piece, when cast, will form the counterpart, which may at all times be fitted with precision. let the object you would take the cast from be placed in a frame made either of wood or of stiff paper, embed a part of it in fine sand, soft pipe-clay, or modeling wax, leaving as much of the mold exposed as you wish to form at one time, and oil it with sweet oil; mix some of the prepared plaster with water, to the consistency of thick cream, and pour over it; when this is set, proceed with the other portions in the same manner until it is complete. let them dry and harden for use. take a sufficient quantity of syrup (clarified with charcoal or animal black) to fill the mold, and boil to the small ball; rub some of it against the side to grain it; when it turns white, pour it into the molds; take them out when set, and put them into the stove at a moderate heat to dry. the molds must be soaked for an hour or two in cold water previously to their being used, which will be found better than oiling them, as it keeps the sugar delicately white, which oil does not. color your articles according to nature with liquid colors (see colors) and camel's-hair pencils or the usual pigments sold in boxes may be used. if a gloss is required, the colors should be mixed with a strong solution of gum-arabic or isinglass, to the desired tint. eggs and fruit may be made as light and as apparently as perfect as nature, by having molds to open in two, without any orifice for filling them. fill one half with the grained sugar, immediately close the mold, and turn it round briskly, that it may be covered all over equally. to accomplish this, it is necessary to have an assistant, that it may be done as speedily as possible. coltsfoot or hoarhound candy.--make a strong infusion of the herbs (see infusions under the head of syrups), and use it for dissolving the sugar, instead of taking syrup; raw sugar is mostly used for those candies. boil it to the ball, grain it and finish as ginger candy. filberts and pistachios.--these are done the same as burnt almonds, but they are usually denominated prawlings, the nuts being only put into the sugar for two or three minutes before it is taken from the fire and stirred. ginger candy.--take clarified syrup and boil it to the ball; flavor it either with the essence of ginger or the root in powder: then with a spoon or spatula rub some of it against the side of the pan until you perceive it turn white; pour it into small square tins with edges, or paper cases, which have been oiled or buttered, and put it in a warm place, or on a hot stone, that it may become dappled. the syrup should be colored yellow, while boiling, with a little saffron. lemon prawlings.--made the same as orange prawlings. orange prawlings.--take four or five havana oranges, and cut off the peel in quarters, or small lengths; take off all the pith or white part of the peel, leaving only the yellow rinds, and cut in small pieces, about an inch long, and the size of pins. have about a pint of clarified sugar boiling on the fire; when it comes to the blow, put in the pieces of peel, and let them boil until the sugar attains the small ball; take them off, and stir them with the spatula until the sugar grains and hangs about them; sift off the loose sugar; when cold, separate and keep them in a dry place. peppermint, lemon and rose candy are made after the same manner as ginger candy, coloring the lemon with saffron, and the rose with cochineal. chocolate. cacao nuts.--the cacoa or cacoa nuts, of which chocolate is made, is the seed of the fruit of a tree common in south america and the west indies. the seeds of the nuts, which are nearly of the shape of an almond, are found to the number of from thirty to forty in a pod. the pods are oval, resembling a cucumber in shape. the different sorts are distinguished by name, according to the places which produce them; thus, the cacao of cayenne, caraccas, berbice, and the islands of st. magdalen and domingo. these all differ in the size of their almonds or seed, quality and taste. the most esteemed is the large caraccas, the almond of which, though somewhat flat, resembles the shape of a large bean. the next are those of st. magdalen and berbice. the seeds of these are less flat than those of the caraccas kind, and the skin is covered with a fine ash-colored dust. the others are very crude and oily, and only fit to make the butter of cacao. the kernels, when fresh, are bitter, and are deprived of this by being buried in the ground for thirty or forty days. good nuts should have a thin brittle skin, of a dark black color; and the kernel, when the skin is taken off, should appear full and shining, of a dusky color, with a reddish shade. choose the freshest, not worm-eaten, or moldy on the inside, which it is subject to be. equal parts of the cacao of caraccas, st. magdalen and berbice mixed together make a chocolate of first-rate quality; and these proportions give to it that rich and oily taste which it ought to have. that made from the cacao of caraccas only is too dry, and that from the islands too fat and crude. roasting.--take a sufficient quantity of nuts to cover the bottom of an iron pot two or three inches deep, place them on the fire to roast, stirring them constantly with the spatula that the heat may be imparted to them equally. a coffee-roasting machine would answer for this purpose admirably, taking care not to torrefy them too much, as the oil of the nut suffers thereby, and it becomes a dark brown or black, grows bitter and spoils the color of the chocolate. musty or moldy nuts must be roasted more than the others, so as to deprive them of their bad taste and smell. it is only necessary to heat them until the skin will separate from the kernel on being pressed between the fingers. remove them from the fire and separate the skins. if you have a large quantity, this may be accomplished by putting them in a sieve which has the holes rather large, but not so much as to allow the nuts to pass through; then squeeze or press them in your hands, and the skins will pass through the meshes of the sieve; or, after being separated from the nuts, they may be got rid of by winnowing or fanning them in a similar manner to corn. when they are separated put them again in the fire, as before directed, stirring them constantly until warmed through, without browning. you may know when they are heated enough by the outside appearing shiny; again winnow, to separate any burnt skin which may have escaped the first time. the making of chocolate.--an iron pestle and mortar is requisite for this purpose, also a stone of the closest grain and texture which can be procured, and a rolling-pin made of the same material, or of iron. the stone must be fixed in such a manner that it may be heated from below with a pot of burning charcoal, or something similar. warm the mortar and pestle by placing them on a stove, or by means of charcoal, until they are so hot that you can scarcely bear your hand against them. wipe the mortar out clean, and put any convenient quantity of your prepared nuts in it, which you pound until they are reduced to an oily paste, into which the pestle will sink by its own weight. if it is required sweet, add about one-half or two-thirds of its weight of loaf sugar in powder; again pound it so as to mix it well together, then put it in a pan, and place it in the stove to keep warm. take a portion of it and roll or grind it well on the slab with the roller (both being previously heated like mortar) until it is reduced to a smooth impalpable paste, which will melt in the mouth like butter. when this is accomplished, put it in another pan, and keep it warm until the whole is similarly disposed of; then place it again on the stone, which must not be quite so warm as previously, work it over again, and divide it into pieces of two, four, eight, or sixteen ounces each, which you put in molds. give it a shake, and the chocolate will become flat. when cold it will easily turn out. the molds for chocolate may either be made of tin or copper, and of different devices, such as men, animals, fish, culinary or other utensils, etc.; also some square ones for half-pound cakes, having divisions on the bottom which are relieved. these cause the hollow impressions on the cakes. the bayonne or spanish chocolate is in general the most esteemed. the reason of its superior quality is attributed by some to the hardness of the pyrenean stone which they employ in making it, which does not absorb the oil from the nuts. they do not use any pestle and mortar, but levigate their nuts on the stone, which is fixed on a slope; and in the second pounding or rolling the paste is pressed closely on the stone, so as to extract the oil, which runs into a pan containing the quantity of sugar intended to be used, and is placed underneath to receive it; the oil of the cacao and sugar are then well mixed together with a spatula, again mixed with the paste on the stone, and finished. cinnamon, mace or clove chocolate.--these are made in the same manner as vanilla chocolate, using about an ounce and a half or two ounces of either sort of spice, in powder, to that quantity, or add a sufficiency of either of these essential oils to flavor. chocolate drops, with nonpareils.--have some warm chocolate, as for pistachios; some add a little butter or oil to it to make it work more free; make it into balls about the size of a small marble, by rolling a little in the hand, or else put some of the paste on a flat piece of wood, on which you form, and take them off with a knife. place them on sheets of white paper about an inch apart. when the sheet is covered, take it by the corners and lift it up and down, letting it touch the table each time, which will flatten them. cover the surface entirely with white nonpareils, and shake off the surplus ones. when the drops are cold they can be taken off the paper easily. the bottom of the drops should be about as broad as a sixpence. some of them may be left quite plain. good chocolate should be of a clear red-brown. as the color is paler or darker, so is the article the more or less good. the surface should be smooth and shining. if this gloss comes off by touching, it indicates an inferior quality, and is probably adulterated. when broken, it ought to be compact and close, and not appear crumbly. it should melt gently in the mouth when eaten, leaving no roughness or astringency, but rather a cooling sensation on the tongue. the latter is a certain sign of its being genuine. chocolate harlequin pistachios.--warm some sweet chocolate by pounding it in a hot mortar; when it is reduced to a malleable paste, take a little of it and wrap round a blanched pistachio nut, roll it in the hand to form it as neat as you can, throw it in some nonpareils of various colors; let it be covered all over. dispose of the whole in the same manner; fold them in colored or fancy papers, with mottoes; the ends should be cut like fringe. almonds may be done the same way, using vanilla chocolate, if preferred. stomachic chocolate.--four ounces of chocolate prepared without sugar; vanilla, one ounce; cinnamon in powder, one ounce; ambergris, forty-eight grains; sugar, three ounces; warm your paste by pounding in the heated mortar, or on the stone; add your aromatics in powder to the sugar, and mix it well with the paste; keep it close in tin-boxes. about a dozen grains of this is to be put into the chocolate pot when it is made, which gives it an agreeable and delightful flavor, and renders it highly stomachic. it may also be used for flavoring the chocolate tablets. vanilla chocolate.--ten pounds of prepared nuts, ten pounds of sugar, vanilla two ounces and a half, cinnamon one ounce, one drachm of mace, and two drachms of cloves, or the vanilla may be used solely. prepare your nuts according to the directions already given. cut the vanilla in small bits; pound it fine with part of the sugar, and mix it with the paste; boil about one half of the sugar to the blow before you mix it to the chocolate, otherwise it will eat hard. proceed as before, and either put in small molds or divide it in tablets, which you wrap in tinfoil. this is in general termed eatable chocolate. colors. many of the colors prepared for use in this art come more properly under the denomination of dyes--alum and cream of tartar being used as a mordant; and many of them are prepared in the same manner as for dyeing. one of the principal colors requisite for the confectioner's use is coccinella, or cochineal. the sorts generally sold are the black, silver, foxy, and the granille. the insect is of two species, the fine and the wild cochineal; the fine differs from the wild in size, and is also covered with a white, mealy powder. the best is of a deep mulberry color, with a white powder between the wrinkles, and a bright red within. a great deal of adulteration is practiced with this article, both at home and abroad; it is on this account that persons prefer the silver grain, because it cannot be so well sophisticated. good cochineal should be heavy, dry, and more or less of a silvery color, and without smell. bistre.--this is an excellent light brown color prepared from wood-soot. these browns are harmless, but sugar may be substituted for them to any shade required, by continuing the boiling after it has passed the degree of caramel until it is burnt, when it gives a black-brown; but water may be mixed with it so as to lessen the shades. dissolved chocolate may also be substituted in some cases for the brown colors. black.--blue-black is powdered charcoal, or ivory-black, which is obtained from the smoke of burnt ivory; but bone-black is generally substituted instead. either of these may be used, but are only required for painting gum-paste when not intended to be eaten. bole ammoniac.--there is also the french and german bole. these earths are of a pale red, and possess alexipharmic qualities. they are frequently used in confectionery for painting and gilding. carmine.--reduce one ounce of cochineal to a fine powder, add to it six quarts of clear rain or filtered water, as for cochineal. put this into a large tin saucepan, or a copper one tinned, and let boil for three minutes, then add twenty-five grains of alum, and let it boil two minutes longer; take it off the fire to cool; when it is blood warm pour off the clear liquor into shallow vessels, and put them by to settle for two days, covering them with paper to keep out the dust. in case the carmine has not separated properly, add a few drops of a solution of tin, or a solution of green vitriol, which is tin dissolved in muriatic acid, or the following may be substituted: one ounce and a half of spirit of nitre, three scruples of sal-ammoniac, three scruples of tin dissolved in a bottle, and use a few drops as required. when the carmine has settled, decant off the clear, which is liquid rouge. the first sediment is florence lake, which remove, and dry the carmine for use. this preparation is by far superior to the first, for in this the same color is obtained as before, which is the liquid rouge, the other and more expensive parts being invariably thrown away. the carmine can be obtained by the first process, as can be seen if the whole is poured into a clear bottle and allowed to settle, when the carmine will be deposited in a layer of bright red near the bottom. it produces about half an ounce of carmine. cochineal, to prepare.--pound an ounce of cochineal quite fine, and put it into a pint of river water with a little potash or soda, and let it boil; then add about a quarter of an ounce powdered alum, the same of cream of tartar, and boil for ten minutes; if it is required for keeping, add two or three ounces of powdered loaf sugar. prussian blue may be used instead of indigo, if preferred, but must be used sparingly. sap green.--this is prepared from the fruit of the buckthorn, and is purgative. spinach green.--this is perfectly harmless, and will answer most purposes. wash and drain a sufficient quantity of spinach, pound it well in a mortar, and squeeze the pounded leaves in a coarse cloth to extract all the juice; put it in a pan and set it on a good fire, and stir it occasionally until it curdles, which will be when it is at the boiling point; then take it off and strain off the water with a fine sieve; the residue left is the green; dry it and rub it through a lawn sieve. this is only fit for opaque bodies, such as ices, creams, or syrups. another green is made with a mixture of saffron or gamboge and prepared indigo; the lighter the green the more yellow must be used. umber.--this is of a blackish brown color; it is an earth found near cologne. vermilion and cinnabar are preparations of mercury, and should never be used; they are of a lively red color, but carmine will answer most purposes instead. yellow.--infuse saffron in warm water, and use it for coloring anything that is eatable. the english hay-saffron is the best; it is taken from the tops of the pistils of the crocus flower; it is frequently adulterated with the flowers of marigolds or safflower, which is known as the bastard saffron, and is pressed into thin cakes with oil. good saffron has a strong agreeable odor, and an aromatic taste. gum paste and other articles which are not eaten may be colored with gamboge dissolved in warm water. obtain any of these colors in fine powder, and mix them with some dissolved gum arabic, a little water, and a pinch of powdered sugar candy; mix them to the required consistency for painting. for sugars they must be used in a liquid state, and be added before it has attained the proper degree; it may also be used in the same manner for ices, creams, etc., and for icings it can be used either way. the shade produced by a mixture of colors. _gold._--yellow, with a portion of red, but the yellow must be more in excess. _green._--blue and yellow. _lemon._--use a solution of saffron. _lilac._--mix carmine or cochineal with indigo, making the blue predominate. _orange._--yellow, with a portion of red. _purple._--mix carmine or cochineal, and a small portion of indigo. comfits. a copper comfit pan is requisite for this purpose. a bar, having chains at each end, with a hook and swivel in the center, is attached to it, by which it is suspended from the ceiling or a beam, so as to hang about as high as the breast over a stove or charcoal fire, that the pan may be kept at a moderate heat and at such a distance as to allow it to be swung backwards and forwards without touching the fire or stove. a preserving-pan containing clarified syrup must be placed by the side of the stove, or over another fire, that it may be kept hot, but not boiling; also a ladle for throwing the syrup into the pan, and a pearling cot. this last somewhat resembles a funnel, without the pipe or tube, and having a small hole in the center, with a pointed piece of stick or spigot fitted into it, which, being drawn out a little, allows the syrup, when placed in it, to run out in a small stream. a piece of string tied several times across the center of the top of the cot and twisted with the spigot allows it to be drawn out and regulated at pleasure. almond comfits.--sift some valencia almonds in a cane or wicker sieve, pick out any pieces of shell which may be amongst them, and also any of the almonds which are either very small or very large, using those which are as near of a size as possible; take about four pounds, put them in the comfit-pan, and proceed in precisely the same way as for scotch caraways; or they may first have a coating of dissolved gum arabic; rub them well about the pan with the hand, and give them a dust of flour; then pour on a little syrup at the small thread, work and dry them well; then give them three or four more charges and a charge of gum with a dust of flour. proceed in this way until they are one third the required size; then dry them for a day, and proceed and finish as for caraway comfits. for the cheaper or more common comfits, more gum and flour are used in making them. barberry comfits.--pick the barberries from the stalk, and dry them in a hot stove on sieves; when dry, put about two pounds into the comfit-pan, and proceed as for almond comfits, giving them first a charge of gum and flour, and finish as others. make them of a good size and quite smooth; finish with very white loaf sugar with syrup. bath caraways.--these are made in the same way as scotch caraway comfits, but only half the size. caraway comfits, pearled.--when the comfits are about the size of bath caraways, dry and pearl them as cinnamon. cardamon comfits.--the seeds should be kept in their husks until they are required to be used, as they lose much of their flavor and virtues when deprived of them. they are often mixed with grains of paradise, but these have not the aromatic taste of the cardamon, and are more hot and spicy. break the husks of the cardamons by rolling them with a pin; separate the skins from the seeds, put two pounds into the comfit-pan, and proceed as for scotch caraways. make them a good size, and quite smooth. celery comfits.--put one pound of celery seed into the pan, and proceed as for scotch caraway comfits, working them up to the size of a large pin's head. dry and pearl them as cinnamon. cherry comfits.--these are made from preserved cherries dried. roll them in your hand to make them quite round, dust them with powdered loaf sugar, and dry them again; then proceed as for barberry comfits. any other preserved fruits may be made into comfits after the same manner. cinnamon comfits.--cinnamon is the bark of a tree, of which there are two sorts. the inferior quality is that usually sold for cinnamon, and is otherwise known as cassia, or _cassia lignea_. this breaks short, and has a slimy mucilaginous taste, is thicker, and of a darker color than the cinnamon, which is the inner bark. this breaks shivery, and has a warm aromatic taste, and is of a reddish color. take one pound of cinnamon bark, and steep it in water for a few hours to soften it, cut it into small pieces about half an inch long, and the size of a large needle. dry it in the stove. put your pieces, when dry, into the comfit-pan, and pour on them a little syrup, as for scotch caraways, proceeding in the same way until they are one-third the required size. you must not use your hand for these as you would for caraways, as they are liable to break in two. dry them in the stove, then suspend the pearling pot or cot from the bar of the pan or ceiling, so as to hang over the center of the pan; boil some clarified loaf sugar to the large pearl, and fill the cot; put some of the prepared comfits in the pan, but not too many at a time, as it is difficult to get them to pearl alike. keep the syrup at the boiling point; open the spigot of the cot so as to allow it to run in a very small stream, or more like a continued dropping; swing the pan backwards and forwards gently, and keep a stronger fire under the pan than otherwise. be careful that the syrup does not run too fast and wet them too much, but so that it dries as soon as dropped, which causes them to appear rough. if one cot full of sugar is not enough, put in more until they are the required size. when one lot is finished put in sieves to dry, and proceed to another; but do not let them lie in the pan after you have finished shaking them. they will be whiter and better if partly pearled one day and finished the next. use the best clarified sugar to finish them. clove comfits.--flavor sugar gum paste with the oil of cloves, and mold it in the form of cloves. dry and finish as others. any flavor may be given to this sort of comfits, and they are molded to form the article of which it bears the name, or cut into any device with small cutters. dried and finished as other comfits. comfits flavored with liqueurs.--blanch some bitter almonds, or the kernels of apricots or peaches; let them soak in hot water for an hour, then drain them, and put them into any sort of liquor or spirit you may desire. lower the strength of the spirit water, that the kernels may imbibe the better, cork the jug or bottle close, and let them infuse in it until the spirit has fully penetrated them, which will be about fourteen or fifteen days; then take them out, drain and dry them in a moderate heat; when dry, proceed as for almond comfits. common caraways.--sift the seeds, and warm them in the pan, as for scotch caraways. have some gum arabic dissolved, throw in a ladleful, and rub them well about the pan with the hand until dry, dusting them with flour. give them three or four coatings in this manner, and then a charge of sugar, until they are about one-half the required size. dry them for a day, give them two or three coatings of gum and flour, finish them by giving them three or four charges of sugar, and dry them. these are made about the size of bath caraways. color parts of them different colors, leaving the greatest portion white. ginger comfits.--flavor gum paste with powdered ginger, make it into small balls about the size of coriander seeds, or peas; dry, and proceed as for scotch caraways. color them yellow when finished. coriander comfits.--proceed with these as for scotch caraways, working them up to about the same size. the next day pearl them to a good size, as for cinnamon. lemon peel or angelica may be made into comfits after the same manner as orange comfits! let the strips of peel be about the size of the pieces of cinnamon, and thoroughly dried before working them in the pan. nonpareils.--pound some loaf sugar, and sift it through a fine wire sieve; sift what has passed through again in a lawn sieve, to take out the finest particles, so that you have only the fine grain of sugar left without dust. put about two pounds of this into the comfit-pan, and proceed as for scotch caraways, working them well with the hand until they are about the size of pins' heads. orange comfits.--take some preserved orange-peel, and cut it into small thin strips, dry them in the stove, and make as cinnamon comfits. raspberry comfits.--prepare some gum paste made with sugar, or the scrapings of the comfit-pan pounded and sifted through a lawn sieve. it may be flavored with raspberry jam, by mixing some with the paste. color it with prepared cochineal; mold it into the form of raspberries, and dry them in the stove; when they are perfectly dry and hard, pearl them as for cinnamon comfits, working them until the size of natural raspberries. color them when dry with cochineal, as comfits. to color loaf-sugar dust.--pound some sugar, and sift it through a coarse hair sieve; sift this again through a lawn sieve, to take out the finer portions. put the coarse grains into a preserving pan, and warm them over the stove fire, stirring it continually with the hand; pour in some liquid color to give the desired tint, and continue to work it about the pan until it is dry. to color nonpareils or comfits.--put some of your comfits or nonpareils into the comfit-pan, shake or rub them about until warm, then add a sufficient quantity of prepared liquid color (see colors) to give the desired tint; be careful not to make them too wet, nor of too dark a color, but rather light than otherwise; shake or rub them well about, that they may be colored equally; dry them a little over the fire, then put them in sieves, and finish drying them in the stove. clean the pan for every separate color. crack and caramel. these comprehend all articles in sugar-boiling which eat short and crisp. they are used for all sorts of ornamental sugar-work. the rules and observations laid down under this head must be particularly noted, especially those for greasing the sugar so as to prevent its graining. acid drops and sticks.--boil clarified sugar to the crack, and pour it on an oiled marble-stone; pound some tartaric or citric-acid to a fine powder, and strew over it about half or three-quarters of an ounce of the former, according to its quality, and less of the latter, to seven pounds of sugar; turn the edges over into the middle, and mix the acid by folding it over, or by working it in a similar manner as dough is molded, but do not pull it; put it in a tin rubbed over with oil or butter, and place it under the stove to keep warm; then cut off a small piece at a time, and roll it into a round pipe; cut them off in small pieces the size of drops, with shears, and let your assistant roll them round under his hand, and flatten them. mix them with powdered sugar, sift them from it, and keep them in boxes or glasses. when flavored with lemon, they are called lemon-acid drops; with otto of roses, rose-acid drops. the sticks are made in the same manner as the drops, without being cut into small pieces. almond hardbake.--oil a square or round tin with low edges; split some almonds in half, put them in rows over the bottom, with the split side downward, until the surface is covered; boil some raw sugar to the crack, and pour it over them so as to cover the whole with a thin sheet of sugar. cocoanut (cut in thin slices), currant, and other similar candies, are made as the hardbake, except that the sugar is grained before it is poured over. almond rock.--this is a similar production to nogat, and is made with raw sugar, which is boiled to the crack. pour it on an oiled stone, and fill it with sweet almonds, either blanched or not; the almonds are mixed with the sugar by working them into it with the hands, in a similar manner as you would mix anything into a piece of dough. if they were stirred into the sugar in the pan it would grain, which is the reason why it is melted for nogat. form the rock into a ball or roll, and make it into a sheet about two inches thick, by rolling it with a rolling-pin. the top may be divided into diamonds or squares by means of a long knife or piece of iron; when it is nearly cold cut it into long narrow pieces with a strong knife and hammer. barley sugar.--boil some clarified loaf sugar to the crack or caramel degree, using a little acid to prevent its graining; pour it out on a marble slab, which has been previously oiled or buttered. four pieces of iron, or small square bars, are usually employed to form a sort of bay to prevent the sugar running off the stone, which is necessary in large casts. when the edges get set a little, remove the bars, and turn them over into the center. this is occasionally flavored with lemons. when it is required, pour a few drops of the essential oil of lemons in the center, before the edges are folded over, then cut it into narrow strips with a large pair of scissors or sheep shears. when nearly cold, twist them, put them into glasses or tin boxes, and keep them closed to prevent the access of air. it is seldom boiled higher than the crack, and saffron is used to make it the color of caramel. this derives the name of barley sugar from its being originally made with a decoction of barley, as a demulcent in coughs, for which it is now most generally used. barley sugar drops.--boil some sugar as for the preceding. spread some finely powdered and sifted loaf sugar on a table or tea-tray, with a piece of stick, round at the end similar to the half of a ball; make several holes, into which you run the sugar from a lipped pan, or it may be dropped on an oiled marble slab with a funnel, letting only one drop fall at a time; or from the lip pan, separating each drop with a small knife, or a straight piece of small wire; take them off the stone with a knife, mix them with powdered loaf sugar, sift them from it, and keep in glasses or tin boxes. barley sugar tablets or kisses.--spread some sugar, as for the last. have a piece of wood about an inch and a half thick, with the surface divided into small squares, each being about an inch in breadth and half an inch in depth; with this form the impressions in the sugar, and fill them with sugar boiled as for drops, flavoring it with essence of lemon; or instead of this, it may be poured out in a sheet on an oiled marble slab, as for barley sugar, and when nearly cold divide it into pieces with a tin frame, having small square divisions, when the whole sheet may be divided at once by pressing hard on it so as to cut it nearly through. when cold, separate them and mix them with powdered sugar, take them out and fold them separately in fancy or colored papers, with a motto on each. they are also occasionally made into balls, thus: first cast the sugar in a sheet on an oiled marble slab; when the edges are set, fold them in the middle, then oil a small square tin with edges to it, put the sugar in this, and place it under the fire-place of the stove so as to keep warm; cut off a piece and roll it into a pipe, then cut it into small pieces with a pair of shears, and let your assistant roll it into small balls under his hand on a sandstone; marble is too smooth for this purpose. many lads who are used to it can turn eight or ten under each hand at one time. when they are finished, pat them into powdered sugar, wrap them in fancy papers, fringed at the ends, put a motto in each, and fasten them with small bands of gold paper. sometimes a cracker is folded up in each, which is made with two narrow strips of stiff paper, a small piece of sand or glass paper is pasted on the end of each, and these are placed over each other with a little fulminating powder between, a piece of thin paper is bound round it, and pasted to keep them together; when these are pulled asunder, the two rough surfaces meeting cause the powder to explode, and out flies the ball of sugar with the motto. this innocent amusement often causes much mirth in a company. brandy balls, etc.--these are made from loaf sugar boiled to the crack, and colored either with cochineal or saffron, and finished in the same way as acidulated drops, without being flattened. clove, ginger, or peppermint candy.--these are all made in the same way as raspberry, using the essential oil of each for flavor. for clove, the mixture, whilst boiling, is colored with cochineal; ginger with saffron; but the peppermint must be kept perfectly white, except the stripes, which is done by cutting off as many pieces from the bulk as you have colors, which should be in powder; put a sufficiency in each piece to give the desired tint, and keep them warm. when the remaining portion of the sugar is pulled, lay them over the surface in narrow stripes, double the roll together, and the face each way will be alike. pull them out into long sticks and twist them; make them round by rolling them under the hand, or they may be cut into small pieces with a pair of shears or scissors. nogat.--two pounds of sweet almonds, one pound of sugar, one pound of water. blanch the almonds, and cut them in slices, dry them at the mouth of a cool oven, and if slightly browned, the better; powder the sugar, and put it into a stew-pan, with the water; place it on the fire to melt, stirring it with a spatula until it becomes a fine brown, then mix in the almonds, and let them be well covered with the sugar; pour it out on an oiled marble-stone. it may be made into a thick or thin sheet, and cut with a knife into small pieces, such as dice, diamonds, etc. the surface may be strewed with currants, fillets of pistachios or coarse sugar, and cut into different forms with tin cutters. it may also be formed into baskets, vases, etc. oil the interior of a mold, and spread the nogat over it, whilst warm, as thin and even as possible. to save the fingers from being burned, it may be spread with a lemon. detach it from the mold when warm, and let it remain until cold, that it may retain its shape perfectly, then fasten the different parts together with caramel sugar. for baskets, a handle of spun sugar may be placed over it, or ornamented with it according to fancy. these may be filled with whipped or other creams when required to be served. raspberry candy.--this may either be made from raw or refined sugar. boil it to the crack, and color it with cochineal; pour it on a stone rubbed over with a little oil or butter, cut off a small piece, and keep it warm to stripe or case the other part, when finished; to the remainder add a little tartaric acid (not so much as for drops), and some raspberry paste, sufficient to flavor it. the residue of raspberries used for making vinegar, and preserved with an equal quantity of sugar, or even less, as for raspberry cakes, does very well for this purpose. fold the edges over into the center, and attach it to a hook fixed against the wall; pull it towards you, throwing it on the hook each time after having pulled it out; continue doing this until it gets rather white and shining, then make it into a compact long roll, and either stripe it with the piece you cut off, or roll it out in a sheet with a rolling-pin, and wrap it round it so as to form a sort of case; then pull it into long narrow sticks, and cut them the required length. to extract the acid from candied drops, etc.--all the articles which have acid mixed with them are extremely liable to grain, when they are useless except to sell for broken pieces, as they cannot be boiled again unless the acid is extracted. the method of doing this is at present not generally known in the trade, and it is kept by many that are in possession of it as a great secret. five dollars is often paid for this recipe alone. however great the secret may be considered, it is only returning to the first principles in the manufacture of sugar. when the juice is expressed from the canes, it contains a considerable quantity of oxalic acid, which must be destroyed before it will granulate into sugar; for this purpose lime is employed, which has the desired effect; so will it also in this case, but chalk or whitening is most generally used. first dissolve your acid sugar in water; when this is thoroughly accomplished, mix in a sufficient quantity of either of these alkalies in powder to cause a strong effervescence; after it has subsided, pass it through a flannel bag, according to the directions for clarifying sugar. the filtered syrup will be fit to use for any purpose, and may be boiled again to the crack or caramel degree as well as if no acid had ever been mixed with it. let the pan it is dissolved in be capable of containing as much again as there is in it, or the effervescence will flow over. crystallized sugar, and articles crystallized, commonly called candies. crystallized or candied sugar.--provide a round mold, smaller at the bottom than the top, of any size you may think proper, made either of tin or copper, with holes pierced round the sides about three inches asunder, so as to fasten strings across in regular rows from the top to the bottom, leaving sufficient room for the sugar to crystallize on each string without touching, or it will form a complete mass; paste paper round the outside to prevent the syrup from running through the holes. have the mold prepared, and let it be clean and dry; take sufficient clarified syrup to fill the mold, and boil it to the degree of crystallization or the feather, and add a little spirit of wine; remove it from the fire, and let it rest until a thin skin is formed on the surface, which you must carefully remove with a skimmer; then pour it into the mold, and place it in the hot closet, where you let it remain _undisturbed_ for eight or nine days, at 90 degrees of heat, or half that time at 100; then make a hole, and drain off the superfluous sugar into a pan placed below to receive it; let it drain quite dry, which will take about twelve hours; then wash off the paper from the mold with warm water, place it near the fire, and keep turning it to warm it equally all round; then turn it up and strike the mold rather hard upon the table, when the sugar will relieve itself and come out; put it on a stand or sieve in the closet, raise the heat to 120 degrees, and let it remain until perfectly dry. particular attention should be paid to the heat of the closet, which must be kept regular and constant, and this can easily be accomplished at a small expense with many of the patent stoves which are now in general use, and also without causing any dust. a fahrenheit's or reaumur's thermometer should be so placed that the heat may at all times be ascertained. this may be colored with prepared cochineal, or other liquid color, or by grinding any particular color with the spirits of wine, and adding it to the syrup before it comes to the feather. crystallized chocolate.--prepare some sugar, as in the preceding articles, and pour it into the box. when a thin crust is formed on the top, make a hole on one side, and put the articles previously shaped with chocolate, as for drops, gently under, with your finger; put them in the stove to crystallize, as other articles. after the syrup is drained off, and the articles dried, they must remain until quite cold before being turned out, as the chocolate continues soft for some time. fruits, to crystallize.--have a square or round tin box, smaller at the bottom than at the top, with wire gratings made to fit at convenient distances, and having a hole with a tube or pipe to admit a cork, and drain off the syrup. take any preserved fruits wet, drain them from the syrup, and dip them in lukewarm water to take off any syrup which may adhere to them; dry them in the closet; when dried, place them in layers on the gratings, side by side, so as not to touch each other; continue in this manner with any sort of fruit until the box is full; then fix the whole with a weight to keep it steady. boil a sufficiency of clarified sugar to fill the box to the degree of crystallization or the blow, add a little spirit of wine, and remove it from the fire. when a thin skin has formed on the top, remove it carefully with a skimmer, and pour the sugar into the mold; place it in the closet at 90 degrees of heat, and let it remain for twelve hours, then drain off the syrup into a pan from the tube at bottom, and let it remain in the closet until quite dry; then turn them out by striking the box hard upon the table, separate them carefully, and put them in boxes with paper between each layer. when different fruits, paste, knots, etc., are mixed together indiscriminately, it is termed mile-fruit candy. any sort of fruit or gum pastes, when thoroughly dried, may be crystallized in the same manner. when the syrup is drained off, if you find the size of the crystals is not large enough, another lot of syrup maybe prepared and poured over it; let it remain in the closet for seven or eight hours, then drain and finish as before. if small pieces of stick are pushed down at each corner, or in any other vacancy, when you fill the mold, one of these may be withdrawn at any time you may wish to ascertain the size of the crystals, which will save the trouble of giving a second charge of sugar. liqueur rings, drops and other devices.--these are all made after the same manner. a square box is necessary, which you fill with very dry starch powder. sugar, powdered very fine and dried, will answer the same purpose. the depth of the box should be suited to the articles intended to be made. shake the box, or pass a knife repeatedly through the powder, that it may be solid; smooth the surface with a straight piece of wood; have a thin piece of flat board, on which is fastened a number of little devices, about an inch asunder, and to suit the width of the box; these may be made either of lead, plaster, or wood, in the form of rings, diamonds, stars, bottles, scissors, harps, shoes, or any other form your fancy may suggest; make the impression in the powder in regular rows, until the box is full; then prepare some sugar as for the preceding articles, boiling it to the blow, and flavoring it with any sort of spirit or liqueur, such as brandy, rum, noyau, maraschino, cinnamon, rosolis, etc., coloring the syrup accordingly. it should be prepared in a pan with a lip to it. when a thin skin has formed on the top, place a cork in the lip of the pan, but not to close it, allowing a space for the sugar to run out, the cork being merely to keep back the skin; then fill the impressions you made in the powder, and place them in the stove at 90 degrees; let them remain a day, then take them out, and their surfaces will be found quite hard and solid; brush the powder from them with a light brush, when they may either be painted, crystallized, or piped. many of these bonbons are beautifully piped and colored to represent dogs, horses, costumer, and theatrical characters; the fur on the robes is imitated with white or colored sugar in coarse grains, and lace work is done by means of a pin. liqueur drops are made with the impression of half a ball to any required size, or other forms. if the flat parts of two are moistened, put together, and dried in the stove, they will form drops perfectly round. to form a chain with liqueur rings.--have some molds to form the impressions in powder, as in the preceding, in the shape of the links of a chain; fill them with syrup at the blow, as before, and put them in the stove for a day; when they are hard and fit to be taken out, place them on their ends in the powder; have another mold of a link in two halves, and with this form the impression between each of the others so as to make it complete; then fill them, and finish as before. on essences. the essences or essential oils sold for general use are, or ought to be, obtained by distillation; but for many purposes they may be obtained equally as good, and in some cases superior, without. as these are often adulterated with olive or nut oils, or with spirits of wine, the fixed oils may be detected by pouring some of the suspected essence on a piece of clean writing-paper, and holding it before the fire; the quantity of fixed oil it contains will remain, leaving a greasy mark, whereas the pure essential oil will evaporate without leaving any appearance; if spirits of wine be added, pour a little water or oil of turpentine into the adulterated sample, and it will turn milky, as the two will not unite without producing this effect. it is often sophisticated with the oil of turpentine, which is the lightest of all essential oils; in this case, rub a drop over the hand and hold it by the fire, when it may be recognized by the smell; or, if burnt, it will give out a dense black smoke. rectified spirits of wine dissolve the volatile oil and resin of vegetables (their taste and smell most frequently reside in these), whilst water acts on the saline and mucilaginous parts. proof spirit, which is a mixture of both these, extracts all their virtues, and through this we are enabled to obtain the essence or tincture of any vegetable, of superior quality to that generally sold, and at considerably less expense. the essential oil of lemons or oranges is obtained by rubbing off the yellow rind on the rough surface of a piece of loaf sugar, which is much superior for flavor to that produced by any other means. scrape off the sugar after it has imbibed the oil, and dry it in a gentle heat, put it into small glazed pots, and tie them over with bladder; it will keep any length of time unimpaired. the same observation holds good as regards all fruit whose flavor or essential oil resides in its peel. allspice, cloves, cinnamon, or nutmegs, etc.--two ounces of spice, one pint of proof spirit. bruise the spice, put it into a bottle, stop it close, let it remain fourteen days, and filter for use. the oil from nutmegs is often extracted from them by decoction, before they are brought to the market, and their orifices closed again with powdered sassafras; this may be ascertained by the lightness of the nut; if it is punctured with a pin, the oil will be pressed from it when good. these oils may be obtained by expression of distillation; they hold resin in solution, and consequently sink in water. the essences usually sold are made by adding half an ounce of pure oil to one pint of spirits of wine. bergamot, essence of.--from the peel of the bergamot lemon. bitter almonds, essence of.--this is obtained by distilling the cake or residue of the almonds after the oil has been expressed from them. it is a deadly poison, containing prussic acid, like all other nuts or leaves which possess the bitter principle. flies drop dead when passing over the still when it is in operation. the essence usually sold is one ounce of oil to seven ounces of rectified spirit. cedrat, essence de.--from the yellow part of the fresh citron peel; it may also be obtained by pressing the yellow part of the peel between two glass plates, and by the distillation of the flowers of the citron-tree. ginger, essence of.--the best jamaica or china ginger two ounces, proof spirit one pint. powder the ginger, mix with the spirit, stop close, and let it steep for twelve or fourteen days. this is the same as is sold for "oxley's concentrated essence of jamaica ginger,"--a mere solution of ginger in rectified spirit--_paris's pharmacologia_. lemon, essence of.--eight ounces of lemon peel, ten ounces of rectified spirits of wine. pare or grate off the yellow rind of the lemon very thin and weigh it, put it into a bottle and pour the spirit on it, stop it close, and let it steep for fourteen days, when it is fit for use. proof gin or white rum will serve equally well, but not such as is generally sold at the gin-shops; this is excellent for ices, creams, lemonade, etc. in many establishments, where quantities of peel are thrown away, the cost of this would be comparatively trifling, compared with the price of the inferior oil generally sold. orange, essence of.--make as lemon, using only four ounces of the yellow rind. peppermint, essence of.--"a spirituous solution of the essential oil, colored green by spinach leaves." this essential oil is obtained by distillation. four pounds of dried leaves yield one ounce. vanilla, essence of.--vanilla two ounces, water ten ounces, rectified spirit three quarters of an ounce. cut the vanilla in small pieces, and pound it fine in a marble mortar, with loaf sugar (about a pound), adding the white of an egg and the spirit. put it into a glazed pot, tie a piece of writing paper over it, and make a hole in it with a pin; stand the pot in warm water, keeping it at that heat for twenty-four hours, then strain for use. one drachm of this is equal to an ounce of vanilla, and is excellent for flavoring ices, creams, liqueurs, etc. fruits and other pastes. fruit pastes and cakes.--these are the pulp of fruits, reduced by heat to a kind of marmalade, with the addition of from half a pound to a pound, and in some cases, double the weight of sugar to each pound of pulp, which is evaporated to the required consistence. they can be formed into rings, knots, etc., and either crystallized or candied. almond paste--orgeat paste.--one pound of sweet almonds, a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds, two pounds of sugar. blanch the almonds, and throw them into clear cold water as they are done, to preserve their whiteness; let them soak for a day, then dry them in a cloth, and pound them quite fine in a mortar, sprinkling them with orange-flower water or lemon juice to prevent their oiling; then with a spatula rub them through a fine wire sieve; what will not pass through, pound again until they are quite fine; clarify the sugar and boil it to the ball; mix the almonds with it, and stir it well over the fire with the spatula until it comes together; then take it from the fire, and put it into an earthen pan to cool; when cool, pound it again, and make it into sticks or tablets, dusting the board or stone with powdered sugar; or put into pots, and tie bladder over it, to be used as wanted. apple cheese.--pare, quarter, and core your apples as for paste; put them into a jar, and cover the top with the parings: tie paper over the top, and bake them in a moderate oven until they are quite done; take off the parings, and pass the apples through a hair-sieve into a preserving-pan. to each pound of pulp add half a pound of loaf sugar clarified and boiled to the blow; place it over a slow fire, stirring it constantly from the bottom until reduced to a stiff paste, which will not stick to the hand; put it into small molds, hoops, or glasses. dry in a moderately warm stove for a few days; take them out of the molds, turn them and place them again in the stove to finish drying. keep in boxes as paste knots, or cover the glasses with brandy papers. apple or pippin paste.--take any quantity of good dressing apples, pare, core, and put them into a preserving pan with a little water, or just sufficient to cover them. boil until they are reduced to a marmalade, stirring them to prevent burning. to every pound of reduced pulp add half or three quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, clarified and boiled to the blow; pass the pulp through a hair-sieve before you mix the sugar with it: put it on the fire and let it boil for three or four minutes, keeping it constantly stirred from the bottom, when it will be sufficiently evaporated. if it be required colored, add liquid color sufficient to give the desired tint when you mix the sugar. spread the paste on small tin or pewter sheets (these should be about a foot wide, by a foot and a half long, and perfectly level) with a thin knife, about the eight of an inch in thickness; put them in the stove for a day; take them out, and cut the paste into long narrow strips, about a quarter of an inch in width; if the paste is dry enough, the strips can be easily pulled off; form them into rings or knots, or cut into diamonds to form leaves, or any other device your fancy may suggest. put them in boxes with a sheet of paper between each layer. this paste is occasionally flavored with lemon, and is principally used for ornamenting the tops of twelfth cakes. apricot paste.--take ripe apricots, put them in a preserving pan with as much water as will cover them; let them simmer on the fire for two or three minutes, or scald until they are tender; drain the water from them, and pass the pulp through a hair sieve; to each pound of pulp take three quarters of a pound of sugar, which you clarify and boil to the blow; put the apricots on the fire, and let them simmer, stirring them constantly until reduced to a thick marmalade; then add the sugar; mix it well with the paste, and let it boil a minute or two longer: take it from the fire, and put it into molds, pots, or crimped paper cases; or it may be spread on small plates, as for apple paste, and formed into rings or knots. place in the stove until dry. if put in paper cases, the paper must be wetted to get out the paste. take it out of the molds, turn it and put it again into the stove to finish drying. black currant paste is made the same as the last. these currants, not being so juicy as the others, may be put into a jar, tied over, and baked in a moderate oven, or put into a kettle of boiling water for a few hours, to extract the juice from them. cherry paste.--take ripe cherries, deprive them of their stalks and stones, put them in a preserving pan, and boil them a little; then pass them through a hair sieve, reduce the pulp, and weigh it. to each pound add a pound of loaf sugar; add it to the paste, and finish as apricot. clear cakes, or jelly cakes.--take the filtered juice of fruits, as for jelly (see jellies); to each pint of juice add one pound of loaf sugar, dissolve it in the juice thoroughly, place it on the fire and heat it, but it must not boil; put it into small pots, molds, or glasses, so as to form cakes about half an inch thick; place them on the stove, which must not be too hot, or they will melt instead of forming a jelly; about seventy-five or eighty degrees fahrenheit is quite hot enough. when a crust has formed on the top, take out the cakes by carefully turning the knife round the sides of the pot, place them on small plates of tin or pewter, and dry on the other side. when dry they can be cut into diamonds, squares, or any shape you please. these are certainly some of the most delicate and beautiful of this class which were ever invented, fit even to gratify the palate of the most fastidious. the fruit from which they are made should be gathered as fresh as it possibly can, except apples, as the mucilage is injured by keeping, and if the fruit has fermented it is entirely destroyed. currant paste.--put any quantity of ripe currants, either red or white, or a part of each mixed, into a hair sieve, press out their juice into a preserving pan; put it on the fire, and keep it constantly stirred until evaporated to a thick consistence. to each pound of reduced pulp add three quarters of a pound or a pound of loaf sugar clarified and boiled to the blow. let it boil a minute or two, and finish as others. damson cheese.--pick the stalks from the damsons, put them in a jar, tie it over, and bake in a cool oven; when done, pass them through a sieve into a preserving pan; put it on the fire to reduce. for each pound of pulp take half a pound of sugar, boiled to the blow; mix with the paste, and finish as for apple cheese. this, as well as all the pastes, may be evaporated to the required consistence by means of a water bath, which is done by placing the pan in which it is contained in another with water, which is kept boiling; this prevents the possibility of its being burnt, but it occupies more time. the kernels of the fruit may be blanched, and added to it just before it is taken from the fire. put it into molds or hoops; dry them in the stove, first on one side and then on the other. all plums are done in the same manner. green apricot paste.--take apricots before they are ripe, scald as the last, and green them. pass the pulp through a sieve, and reduce it; to each pound of reduced pulp add one pound of loaf sugar clarified and boiled to the blow. finish as ripe apricot paste. gomme des dattes.--one pound of dates, two pounds of very white picked gum arabic, sugar two ounces. make as jujubes. gomme des jujubes--jujube-gum.--jujubes one pound, very white and picked gum-arabic two pounds; powdered sugar two ounces. pound the jujubes in a marble mortar with five pints of water; put the whole into a pan, and boil until reduced to three; strain the decoction through a cloth; beat up the white of an egg with a glass of water, and mix part of it with the decoction as it boils; throw in a little at a time of the remaining part, to check the ebullition. when it is all used, take off the scum; put it again on the fire to evaporate the water, adding at the same time the gum and sugar, powdered and passed through a horse-hair sieve. stir it with the spatula until dissolved. when it is of the consistence of honey, place it in the bain-marie, and neither stir nor touch it, that it may be clear. when it has acquired body enough, so as not to stick to the back of the hand when applied to it, pour it into molds previously oiled with good olive oil, as for jujubes; place in the stove to finish drying; when dry, take it out and cut in small pieces. pate de jujube and white liquorice may be done in the same manner, using only half the quantity of sugar. lemon paste.--make as orange paste, using part of the juice and double the weight of sugar; or it may be made by using only the pounded peel with the same weight of sugar. orange paste.--squeeze the juice from seville or sweet oranges, and boil the peels in three or four waters to take off part of their bitterness. in the first put a little salt. when they are quite tender remove the white pith or pulp, and pound them quite fine in a mortar, with part of the juice, using sufficient to make them into a paste, then pass it and the remaining portion of the juice through a sieve into a preserving-pan; put it on the fire, and reduce it to a marmalade, weigh it, and for each pound take three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar; clarify and boil to the blow; mix it with the paste, evaporate over a gentle fire to a good consistence, and finish as apple. the rinds of the oranges may be pared off before they are squeezed, which, if boiled in one water, will be sufficient, as the pith of the peel is extremely bitter and indigestible, and the flavor or essential oil is contained only in the yellow porous part. pastes formed with gum--pate de guimauve--marsh mallow paste.--gum arabic three pounds, roots of fresh marsh-mallows eight ounces, one dozen of rennet apples, loaf sugar three pounds. peel, core, and cut the apples in pieces. cleanse the roots, and slice them lengthways in an oblique direction; add this to seven pints of water; soft or river water is the best when filtered; put it on the fire and boil for a quarter of an hour, or until reduced to six pints; pound and sift the gum through a hair sieve; strain the decoction into a pan with the gum; put it on a moderate fire, or into a bain-marie, stirring it until the gum is perfectly dissolved; then strain it through a coarse towel or tamis cloth, the ends being twisted by two persons; add it to the sugar, which has been previously clarified and boiled to the feather; dry it well over the fire, keeping it constantly stirred from the bottom. when it has acquired a thick consistence, take the whites of eighteen eggs, and whip them to a strong froth; add them to the paste, and dry until it does not stick to the hand when it is applied to it; add a little essence of neroli, or a large glassful of double orange-flower water, and evaporate again to the same consistence. pour it on a marble slab well dusted with starch powder, flatten it with the hand; the next day cut it into strips, powder each strip, and put them in boxes. powder the bottom, that they may not stick. pate de blanche reglisse--white licorice paste.--this is made the same as marsh-mallow paste, using licorice-root instead of mallow. it may be made without the eggs, and finished as jujubes. pate de gomme arabique--arabic paste.--very white gum arabic two pounds, sugar two pounds, orange-flower water four ounces, the whites of twelve eggs. pound and sift the gum, add it to the water, dissolve and evaporate it over a slow fire, stirring it constantly until it is reduced to the consistence of honey with the sugar in syrup. whip the whites to a strong snow; add it to the paste with the orange-flower water, gradually; stir and finish as marsh-mallow paste, for which this is mostly substituted, and much used for coughs. it should be very white, light, and spongy. pate de gomme senegal--senegal paste.--gum senegal two pounds, sugar one pound. dissolve the gum in orange-flower water and common water; or dissolve it in common water, and flavor with essence of neroli; add the sugar, when clarified and boiled to the blow; evaporate, and finish as pate de jujube. this is usually sold for jujube paste, or else picked gum arabic made into a paste as senegal, and colored with prepared cochineal or saffron. pate de reglisse noir--black licorice paste.--the best refined licorice one pound, gum arabic four pounds, loaf sugar two pounds, florence orris-root one ounce. dissolve the gum and licorice in seven pints of water, keeping it stirred over a slow fire; add the sugar in syrup with the orris-root, evaporated to a paste, and finish as jujubes. peach paste.--choose some very fine and ripe peaches, take off the skin, and cut them in small pieces into a preserving pan; put them on the fire, and reduce to a thick consistence, stirring it continually. for each pound of reduced pulp take half or three-quarters of a pound of sugar; clarify and boil it to the blow; add it to the pulp; put it again on the fire, and let it boil a few minutes. finish as other pastes. plum paste.--plums of any kind are preserved in the same manner, whether green gages, magnum bonums, orleans, damsons, etc. take out their stones, and boil the fruit in a little water, as for apricot paste; pass them through a sieve, and for each pound of reduced pulp take a pound of sugar; clarify and boil it to the blow; mix it with the paste, and evaporate to the required consistence. quince paste.--proceed as for apple paste. raspberry cakes.--take ripe raspberries, press the juice from half of them, and put the pulp back with the others; reduce them on the fire. to each pound of pulp add two pounds of loaf sugar in powder; put it again on the fire, stirring it constantly until it is evaporated to a very thick paste. have a tin ring, with a handle by the side, about the size of an old penny piece, and twice the thickness; wet the ring, and place it on your small pewter or tin plates, fill it with the paste, smoothing over the top with a knife; then remove the ring, and the cake will remain. lay them off in rows, and make three or four marks on the top with the handle of a table-spoon; put them in the stove to dry, turn them with a thin knife, and put them again in the stove to dry perfectly. place them in boxes, with paper between each layer. the residue from the making of raspberry vinegar may be employed for this purpose, or they may be made by adding a pound of fine powdered sugar to a pound of jam. any of the fruit pastes may be formed into cakes like these, or into drops, by forcing them out on paper with a small pipe and bladder attached to it. raspberry paste.--as currant paste. violets, gum of.--violet flowers one pound, picked gum two pounds, sugar four ounces in syrup. pour three pints of water at the boiling point on the flowers in an earthen jar; stop it perfectly close, and keep it in a warm place for ten or twelve hours; strain the infusion by expression into a flat pan or dish, place it on an inclination, and let it rest for an hour, that the fã¦ces may subside; pour off the clear gently from the bottom or settling, and add to it six grains of turnsole bruised, and six grains of carmine, as this clear infusion is not sufficiently colored to give it the beautiful tint of the violet. mix in the powdered gum and sugar, stir it over a moderate fire until dissolved, pass it through a sieve, and finish in the bain-marie as jujubes. any of these gums, when dry, may be crystallized. ice cream. in making ice cream always use rich, sweet cream, sweetened with powdered sugar, and flavor with the extract of lemon. vanilla, etc., etc.--in warm weather be particular that the cream is not set anywhere near the fire, as there is danger of the least heat turning it sour. it should be left in the refrigerator, or some cool place, until time to prepare it for freezing. when cream cannot be had, an excellent substitute may be made as follows: to a quart of new milk add two beaten eggs; set it on the fire in a saucepan, but be careful not to stir it after it is hot, as that would be apt to make it burn. while it is heating mix smoothly with a teacup of new milk a table-spoonful of flour, and be ready to stir it into the milk on the fire as soon as it comes to the boiling point. remove it immediately, and pour it into another vessel to cool. this is known to cooks as boiled custard; and although some take more than two eggs, that number, used as directed, will be found sufficient to make a delicious substitute for cream, and for this purpose all the more desirable because not taking so much of the egg; the color also being that of a very rich cream. the custard thus prepared should now be sweetened well, and treated just as in making with cream, with the exception that this requires the addition of a small pinch of salt; and when the whole is frozen very few can distinguish it from genuine ice-cream; indeed, half that sold in confectionaries is prepared in this manner. some confectioners use arrow-root instead of flour for thickening; but either flour or corn-starch is better for the purpose, as they have no taste of their own. freezing.--when the cream or custard is prepared it is put into the freezer, which is a cylindrical tin vessel which is provided with a rotary scraper or dasher, moving by a crank, with a handle through the lid. the freezer is then firmly imbedded in a bucket of pounded ice, mixed with coarse salt. this bucket should be provided with a hole or spigot near the bottom, so as to drain off the superfluous water caused by the melting ice. the lid of the freezer must be tight-fitting and secure, so as to avoid all danger of the salt getting into it. as soon as the freezer is firmly fixed and entirely surrounded with the salt and the ice, commence turning the handle, and continue to turn until it is well frozen, which is soon indicated by the increased difficulty of moving the crank. as soon as it becomes stiff the lid may be raised and the dasher removed, using a spoon to scrape off the cream that adheres to it. if it is to be molded the tin form may now be filled. if a pyramid is used, put a spoonful of the softest frozen cream into the extreme point, being careful that it fills up well; then go on filling it up, being careful to press into every part. some force is required to pack it tightly, in order to give firmness and body to the form when removed from the mold. when entirely full, put the lid on the mold, and plunge it into a bed of salted ice, there to remain until time for serving. when about to serve, have a plate ready, a little larger than the base of the pyramid, also a pan of hot water; roll the tin form, for an instant only, then wipe quickly, and, holding it top downwards, remove the lid, place the plate over it, and quickly turn it right side up, setting the plate on the table; remove the tin mold carefully, and the pyramid will remain standing on the plate. another plan is to wipe the outside of the mold, on taking it from the ice bed; then take off the lid, and set the pyramid base downwards on the plate; wring cloths out of scalding water, and wrap them around the tin mold for a few minutes, until the cream is sufficiently melted to allow the tin to be lifted off. all ices made with red fruit require the addition of a little cochineal to heighten the color. the quantity of fruit required for fruit ices will depend in a great measure on the quality of the fruit and the season in which it is produced; a pint and a half will be found sufficient when it is good in fine seasons; the quantity stated in each weight is the greatest required. apple-water ice.--pare and core some fine apples, cut them in pieces into a preserving pan with sufficient water for them to float, boil until they are reduced to a marmalade, then strain; to a pint of apple water add half a pint of syrup, the juice of a lemon, and a little water; when cold, freeze. apricot--fresh fruit.--twenty-four fine ripe apricots, one quart of cream, twelve ounces of sugar, the juice of two lemons, with a few of the kernels blanched; mash the apricots, rub them through a sieve, mix, and freeze. apricot, from jam.--twelve ounces of jam, one quart of cream, the juice of two lemons, eight ounces of sugar, a few kernels or bitter almonds blanched and pounded fine; rub the whole through a sieve, and freeze. chocolate ice.--one quart of cream, six ounces of chocolate, and ten ounces of sugar; dissolve the chocolate in a little water, or make the sugar into a syrup, and dissolve it by putting it on the side of the stove, or over the fire; add the cream and eggs, and make it into a custard as before; when cold, freeze. coffee ice cream.--one quart of cream, five ounces of mocha coffee, and twelve ounces of sugar; roast the coffee in a coarse iron or other stew-pan, keeping it constantly stirred until it is a good brown color; throw it into the custard cream whilst it is quite hot, and cover it closely; let it infuse for an hour or two, then strain and freeze. the cream may be made with an infusion of coffee, thus: take the quantity of coffee, fresh roasted and ground to a fine powder; put this into a common glass bottle or decanter, and pour on it sufficient cold river water to moisten the powder and make an infusion: stop the bottle close, and let it remain all night; the next day filter the infusion by passing it through some fine lawn or blotting paper placed in a glass funnel: by this process a very strong superior infusion is obtained, which contains the whole of the aroma of the coffee. dr. ratier observes, "i have tried this process with boiling and with cold water; and i have assured myself, by comparison, that the powder drained by the cold water, and treated then with boiling water, gave nothing but a water slightly tinted with yellow, and devoid of odor and flavor. it is, besides, proper to pass an equal quantity of water to the first, over the grounds, in order that the second water may serve for new powder." use this for flavoring the custard, and freeze. currant ice from fresh fruit.--one pint and a half of ripe currants, half a pint of raspberries, one quart of cream, the juice of two lemons, and twelve ounces of sugar. mix as raspberry. currant ice.--preserved fruit.--the same proportions as raspberry, using either jam or jelly. custard ices.--these are similarly composed to the cream ices, with the addition of six eggs to each quart of cream. all kinds of nuts, liquors, essences, infusions, or biscuits are principally mixed with it. ginger ice.--six ounces of preserved ginger, one quart of cream, half a pint of the syrup from the ginger, sugar sufficient to sweeten it with, and the juice of two lemons; pound the ginger in a mortar, add the cream, etc., and freeze. harlequin ice.--this is formed by putting a small quantity of each kind of ice into the same mold, taking care to have as great a variety of colors placed so as to produce a contrast; cover the mold with salt and ice as before directed, and let it remain half an hour, when it will be fit to turn out. when the colors are tastily disposed of it produces a good effect for the table, but is not much admired on account of the jumble of flavors. lemon ice cream.--six large lemons, one quart of cream and twelve ounces of sugar or half pint of syrup; grate off the peels of three of the lemons into a basin, squeeze the juice to it, let it stand for two or three hours, strain, add the cream and syrup, and freeze or mix as seville orange ice. maraschino cream ice.--make as noyau, flavoring it with maraschino de zarah. all liquor ices are made the same way, using the different liquors with which each is named, or they may be made in this way: take a quart of cream, put it into the ice-pot with six ounces of sugar, which you place in the ice; work or whisk it well about the sides with a whisk for five minutes; add a glassful of liquor, work this well together, then whisk the whites of two eggs to a strong froth; add two ounces of sugar to them, mix this well with the cream, and freeze to the required consistence. this produces a very beautiful, soft, and mellow cream. noyau cream ice.--make a custard cream, and flavor it with noyau; finish as almond ice. orange ice cream.--six oranges, three lemons, one quart of cream, and twelve ounces of sugar or of syrup, to palate; rub off the yellow rind of two or three of the oranges on part of the sugar, scrape it off with a knife, squeeze out the juice of the oranges and lemons, and strain it; mix it with the cream and the sugar, on which the rind was rubbed, add the other part of the sugar, dissolve and freeze. peach ice.--the same proportions as apricot. pineapple--fresh fruit.--one pound of fresh pineapple, half a pint of syrup in which a pine has been preserved, two or three slices of pineapple cut in small dice, and the juice of three lemons; pound or grate the apple, pass it through a sieve, mix and freeze. pineapple--preserved fruit.--eight ounces of preserved pine, four slices cut in small dice, one quart of cream, the juice of three lemons, and sufficient syrup from the pine to sweeten it; pound the preserved pine, mix lemons with the cream, etc., and freeze. punch a la romaine--roman punch ice.--make a quart of lemon ice, and flavor it with a glass or two of each of rum, brandy, champagne, and maraschino; when it is frozen, to each quart take the whites of five eggs and whip them to a very strong froth; boil half a pound of sugar to the ball, and rub it with a spoon or spatula against the sides to grain it: when it turns white, mix it quickly with the whites of eggs, stir it lightly together, and add it to the ice; when cold, mix it well together, and serve it in glasses. less sugar must be used in the ice, so as to allow for that which is used in making the meringue. punch-water ice.--make either a good lemon ice, or use some orange juice with the lemons, in the proportion of one orange to two lemons: either rub off the yellow rind of the lemons on sugar, or pare it very thin, and soak it in spirit for a few hours; when the ice is beginning to set, work in the whites of three eggs to each quart, beaten to a strong froth, and mixed with sugar as for meringue, or add the whites without whisking them; when it is nearly frozen, take out the pot from the ice, and mix well with it a glass each of rum and brandy, or sufficient to make it a good flavor; some like the taste of rum to predominate, but in this case of course you will be guided by the wish of your employer. in general the prevailing flavor distinguishes it by name, as rum-punch or brandy-punch ice; after the spirit is well mixed, replace the pot and finish freezing. champagne, arrack, or tea is added; it is then termed champagne-punch ice, arrack-punch ice, etc. raspberry or fresh fruit.--one quart of raspberries, one quart of cream, three quarters of a pound or a pound of sugar, a few ripe currants and gooseberries, or currants and ripe cherries may be added, instead of all raspberries, which is much approved by some, and the juice of two lemons; mash the fruit, and pass it through a sieve to take out the skins and seeds; mix it with the other articles; add a little prepared cochineal to heighten the color; put it in the pot and freeze. raspberry from jam.--one pound of jam, one quart of cream, about six ounces of sugar or syrup, to palate, and the juice of two lemons. mix as before. strawberry.--same as raspberry. vanilla ice.--one quart of cream, half an ounce of vanilla, twelve ounces of sugar; cut the vanilla into small pieces, and pound it with the sugar until it is quite fine, add it to the cream and eggs, make it into a custard, strain, and when cold, freeze, or it may be flavored with the essence of vanilla. (see essences.) water ices.--these are the pulp or juice of fruits, mixed with syrup, lemon juice, and a little water, so as to bring them to a good flavor and consistence when frozen. lozenges. these are composed of loaf sugar in fine powder, and other substances, either liquid or in powder, which are mixed together and made into a paste with dissolved gum, rolled out into thin sheets, and formed with tin cutters into little cakes, either oval, square, or round, and dried. one ounce of gum tragacanth, and one pint of water. let it soak in a warm place twenty-four hours; put it in a coarse towel or cloth, and let two persons continue twisting it until the whole of the gum is squeezed through the interstices of the cloth. one ounce of this dissolved gum is sufficient for four or five pounds of sugar; one ounce of dissolved gum arabic to twelve ounces of sugar. either of these gums may be used separately, or in the proportion of one ounce of gum dragon to three ounces of gum arabic mixed together. these are generally used for medicated lozenges; but gum arabic alone is considered to make the best peppermint. in mixing _these_, as well as all other medicated lozenges, the different powders should be well mixed with the sugar, in order that each lozenge may have its due portion. if this is not attended to, the perfect distribution of the component parts cannot be depended on, and one lozenge may contain double or treble the quantity of medicated matter it ought to have, whilst others contain comparatively none; therefore, those that have the greatest portion may often prove injurious by acting contrary to what was intended. brilliants.--take either of the pastes for peppermint lozenges from nos. 1 to 4, and cut into small fancy devices, such as hearts, diamonds, spades, triangles, squares, etc. catechu lozenges.--sugar four pounds, catechu twelve ounces. make into a paste with dissolved gum. catechu a l'ambergris.--to the paste for catechu lozenges add sixteen grains of musk. catechu with orange-flowers.--as before, adding twelve drops of essence of neroli. catechu with violets.--as before, adding florence orris root, in powder, three drachms. these are all used to fasten the teeth, and disguise an offensive breath. ching's brown worm lozenges.--calomel washed in spirits of wine (termed _white panacea of mercury_) seven ounces, resin of jalap three pounds eight ounces, fine sugar nine pounds, dissolved gum sufficient quantity to make a paste. each lozenge should contain half a grain of mercury. panacea one ounce, resin of jalap two ounces, sugar two pounds. dissolve a sufficient quantity of gum in rose-water to make a paste. make 2,520 lozenges, weighing eight grains each, and containing a quarter of a grain of calomel and half a grain of jalap. these lozenges should be kept very dry after they are finished, as the damp, acting on the sugar and mercury, generates an acid in them. ching's yellow worm lozenges.--fine sugar twenty-eight pounds, calomel washed in spirits of wine one pound, saffron four drachms, dissolved gum tragacanth sufficient to make a paste. make a decoction of the saffron in one pint of water, strain, and mix with it. each lozenge should contain one grain of mercury. cinnamon lozenges.--gum tragacanth, dissolved, two ounces, lawned sugar eight pounds, cinnamon in powder one ounce, essential oil ten drops. mix into a paste and color with bole ammoniac. a stomachic. clove lozenges.--sugar eight pounds, cloves three ounces, gum tragacanth two ounces. each lozenge should contain two grains of cloves. a restorative and stomachic. ginger lozenges.--eight pounds of sugar and eight ounces of the best ground ginger. mix into a paste with dissolved gum. essence may be used instead of the powder, coloring it with saffron. a stimulant and stomachic. ipecacuanha lozenges.--sugar four pounds, ipecacuanha one ounce, apothecaries' weight; dissolved gum sufficient to make a paste. make 960 lozenges, each containing half a grain of ipecacuanha. an expectorant and stomachic, used in coughs. lavender lozenges.--make as rose lozenges, using the oil of lavender instead of rose. lozenges for the heartburn.--prepared chalk four ounces, crab's eyes, prepared, two ounces, bole ammoniac one ounce, nutmeg one scruple, or cinnamon half an ounce. mix into a paste with dissolved gum arabic. magnesia lozenges.--calcined magnesia eight ounces, sugar four ounces, ginger in powder two scruples, dissolved gum arabic sufficient to form a paste. magnesia two ounces, sugar eight ounces, sufficient gum arabic to make a paste, dissolved in orange flower water. marshmallow lozenges.--marshmallow roots in powder one pound, or slice the root and make a strong decoction, in which you dissolve the gum, fine sugar four pounds. mix into a paste. if six drops of laudanum be added, with two ounces of licorice, the pectoral quality of these lozenges will be improved. good for obstinate coughs. nitre lozenges.--sugar four pounds, sal-nitre one pound, dissolved gum tragacanth sufficient to make a paste. a diuretic internally; held in the mouth, it removes incipient sore throats. nutmeg lozenges.--sugar eight pounds, oil of nutmegs one ounce, dissolved gum sufficient to mix into a paste. a stimulant and stomachic. peppermint lozenges, no. 1.--take double refined loaf-sugar, pound and sift it through a lawn sieve; make a bay with the sugar on a marble slab, into which pour some dissolved gum, and mix it into a paste as you would dough, flavoring the mass with oil of peppermint. one ounce of this is sufficient for forty pounds of lozenges. some persons prefer mixing their gum and sugar together at first in a mortar; but as it is indifferent which way is pursued, that may be followed which is most convenient. roll out the paste on a marble slab until it is about the eighth of an inch in thickness, using starch-powder to dust it with, to prevent its sticking to the slab and pin. before cutting them out, strew or dust over the surface with powder, mixed with lawned sugar, and rub it over with the heel of your hand, which gives it a smooth face. this operation is termed "facing up." brush this off, and again dust the surface with starch-powder, cut them out, and place in wooden trays. put them in the hot-closet to dry. all lozenges are finished in the same manner. peppermint lozenges, no. 2.--these are made as no. 1, adding a little starch-powder or prepared plaster, as for gum paste, to the paste, instead of using all sugar. peppermint lozenges, nos. 3 and 4.--proceed in the same manner as for no. 2, using for each more starch-powder in proportion. use smaller cutters, and let the paste be rolled thicker. peppermint lozenges, no. 5.--these are made from loaf sugar in coarse powder, the finest having been taken out by sifting it through a lawn sieve. mix it into a paste with dissolved gum arabic and a little lemon juice. flavor with oil of peppermint. peppermint lozenges, superfine transparent.--the sugar for these must be in coarser grains. pass the sugar through a coarse hair-sieve. separate the finest by sifting it through a moderately fine hair-sieve. mix and flavor as the others. the coarser the grains of sugar, the more transparent the lozenges. the finer particles of sugar being mixed with it destroy their transparency. the solution of gum should be thicker in proportion as the sugar is coarse. refined licorice.--four pounds of the best spanish juice, and two pounds of gum arabic. dissolve the gum in warm water, as for bath pipe. strain and dissolve the gum in the solution of licorice. place it over a gentle fire, in a broad pan, and let it boil gradually, stirring it continually (or it will burn) until it is reduced to a paste. roll into pipes or cylinders of convenient lengths, and polish by putting them in a box and rolling them together, or by rubbing them with the hand, or a cloth. this is often adultered by using glue instead of gum, and by dipping the pipes in a thin solution, which gives them a beautiful gloss when dry. in establishments where this is manufactured on a large scale, the licorice is dissolved in a large bain-marie, and stirred with spatulas which are worked by a steam-engine. rhubarb lozenges.--sugar four pounds, best turkey rhubarb, in powder, ten ounces. rose lozenges--make your paste as no. 1, using the essential oil or otto of roses to flavor them; or the gum may be dissolved in rose water, and a little essential oil may be added to give additional flavor, if required. color the paste with carmine or rose pink. saffron lozenges.--saffron, dried and powdered, four ounces, sugar four pounds, dissolved gum sufficient. an anodyne, pectoral, emmenagogue. steel lozenges.--pure iron filings or rust of iron one ounce, cinnamon, in powder, four ounces, fine sugar seven pounds, dissolved gum, a sufficient quantity to make a paste. a stomachic and tonic. sulphur lozenges.--four pounds of sugar, eight ounces of sublimed sulphur, gum sufficient to make a paste. for asthma and the piles. tolu lozenges.--sugar four pounds, balsam of tolu three drachms, or the tincture of the balsam one fluid ounce, cream of tartar six ounces, or tartaric acid one drachm, dissolved gum sufficient to make a paste. these may also be flavored by adding a quarter of an ounce of vanilla and sixty drops of the essence of amber. the articles must be reduced to a fine powder with the sugar. a pectoral and balsamic. vanilla lozenges.--sugar four pounds, vanilla in powder six ounces, or sufficient to give a strong flavor. make into a paste with dissolved gum. yellow pectoral lozenges.--sugar one pound, florence orris-root powder twelve drachms, licorice-root six drachms, almonds one ounce, saffron in powder four scruples, dissolved gum sufficient to make a paste. make a decoction of the licorice to moisten the gum with. bath pipe.--eight pounds of sugar, twelve ounces of licorice. warm the licorice, and cut it in thin slices, dissolve it in one quart of boiling water, stir it well to assist the solution; let it settle, when dissolved, to allow any impurities or bits of copper which are often found in it to fall down; pour it off free from the sediment; dissolve the gum in the clear part, and mix it into a paste as for lozenges. roll out a piece with your hand in a round form; finish rolling it with a long flat piece of wood, until it is about the size of the largest end of the stem of a tobacco-pipe. dry them in the stove as lozenges. these may be also flavored with anise-seed by adding a few drops of the oil, or with catechu or violets by adding the powders of orris-root or catechu. peppermint or other pipes.--any of the pastes for lozenges may be formed into pipes by rolling it out as directed for bath pipes. they are occasionally striped with blue, green, and yellow, by making strips with liquid color on the paste and twisting before you roll it out with the board. meringues and icing. dry meringues in the form of eggs.--ten whites of eggs, twelve ounces of sugar. obtain the newest laid eggs, and separate the white from the yolk very carefully; put the whites into a pan, which must be quite free from grease; whisk them to a very strong froth, so as it will support an egg, or even a greater weight; have the sugar pounded and sifted through a lawn sieve, and mix it as lightly as possible; spread some pieces of board about an inch thick, then with a table or dessert spoon drop them on the paper about two inches asunder, dust them with fine powdered loaf sugar, blow off all that does not adhere, and put them into a cool oven to bake until they are a nice light brown; if the oven should be too warm, when the surface gets dry or hardened cover them with paper; as soon as they are done take them off with a knife; press the inside or soft part down with the top or the back of a spoon, place them on sieves, and put them into the stove to dry; when they are required to be served, fill them with any kind of preserved fruit or cream, if it is rather acid the better, and put two together. the quality of the meringues will depend on the eggs being well whipped to a very strong froth, and also on the quantity of sugar, for if there is not enough they will eat tough. icing for wedding or twelfth cakes, etc.--pound and sift some treble-refined sugar through a lawn sieve, and put it into an earthen pan, which must be quite free from grease; to each pound of sifted sugar add the whites of three eggs, or sufficient to make it into a paste of a moderate consistence, then with a wooden spoon or spatula beat it well, using a little lemon-juice occasionally, and more white of egg if you find that it will bear it without making it too thin, until you have a nice light icing, which will hang to the sides of the pan and spoon; or, if it is dropped from the spoon, it should remain on the top without speedily losing the form it assumed. a pan of icing, when well beat and finished, should contain as much again in bulk as it was at the commencement; use sufficient lemon-juice to give the icing a slight acid, or it will scale off the cake in large pieces when it is cut. many prefer the pyroligneous acid to the lemon-juice, but the flavor is not so delicate, and it always retains a smell of the acid; neither did i ever find, as some assert, that it improves the quality and appearance of the icing; the only advantage derived from it is that of economy. italian meringues.--one pound of sugar, the whites of six eggs. clarify the sugar and boil it to the blow; in the meantime whip up the whites as for the last, take the sugar from the fire and rub it a little against the sides of the pan to grain it; as soon as it begins to turn white mix in the whipped eggs, stirring the sugar well from the pan with the whisk or spatula; lay them off, and bake as dry meringues: these may be colored by adding the liquid color to the syrup so as to give the desired tint; and either of them may be flavored by rubbing off the peel of oranges, lemons, or cedrats on sugar, and scraping it off as it imbibes the oil; or it may be flavored with vanilla, by cutting it in small pieces and pounding it with some sugar, or with any liquor by adding a spoonful or two when you mix the eggs or sugar. they may also be varied in form, and baked on tin or iron plates instead of wood, that the bottoms may be quite firm. the tops may be covered with almonds or pistachios, blanched and cut small or in fillets, or with currants, or colored sugars; the whole depending on the taste and ingenuity of the artist. kisses.--twelve ounces of sugar powdered very fine and passed through a silk sieve, the whites of six eggs beaten to a strong froth; mix and lay out on paper, as for dry meringues; when baked, place two together. the size should be about that of pigeons' eggs. mushrooms.--to make these, take either of the pastes for meringues or light icing, as for cakes; put some into a bag in the shape of a cone, with a tin pipe at the end, the same as used for savoy biscuits; lay them off in drops the size you wish them to be, on iron plates rubbed quite clean and dry; bake them as you would meringues, make also a smaller drop to form the stalk; when they are baked, take them off the tin and scoop out a little with your finger from the bottom near the edge, to form the hollow rough surface underneath; then dry them in the stove; scrape some chocolate and dissolve it in a little warm water, and rub a little over the rough part underneath; then place the stalk in the center, fixing it with a little icing, and let the flat part which was on the tin be placed outermost, to represent where it was cut. piping cakes, bonbons, etc.--this is a method of ornamenting wedding, twelfth-cakes, and other articles with icing, by means of small pipes or tubes; these are most generally made with writing-paper folded in the form of a cone, in the same manner as a grocer makes up his papers for small lots of sugar, tea, etc. the tube is filled with icing, made as for cakes, the base of the cone, or the place where it was filled, is turned down to prevent the sides opening, and the escape of the icing; the point is then cut off with a sharp knife or scissors, so as to make a hole sufficiently large to form the icing, when squeezed or pressed out, in a thread of the required size, and which will either be fine or coarse, according to the length of the point which is cut off. if the hole at the point of the cone is not perfectly straight when the icing is pressed out, it will form a spiral thread, which is very inconvenient to work with. stars, borders, flowers, and different devices are formed on cakes after they are iced, the execution of which depends on the ability and ingenuity of the artist. baskets, chinese and other temples, etc., are formed on molds by these means, first giving them a coating of white wax, which is brushed over them after it is melted, and when cold, the icing is formed on it like trellis-work; when finished, the mold is warmed, and the icing easily comes off. some of the pipes which are used cannot be formed with paper, as the tape and star-pipes, which are made of tin, having a bag fastened to them in a similar manner to that generally used for dropping out savoy biscuits, macaroons, etc., only much smaller, the point of the tin tube of the one being fluted to form a star, and in the other it is flat, so that when the icing is forced or squeezed through, it comes out in a broad thin sheet, like a piece of tape. i employ a set of pipes made of tin, with small bags fastened to them; these are of different dimensions; the orifice of the round ones commences at the size of a common pin, and the tape-pipes from a quarter to half an inch in width. i find these much better than paper ones, as the trouble and time which is lost in constantly making new ones is amply repaid by the others, as they are not very expensive and are always ready for use. these pipes should be in the hands of the confectioner what the pencil or brush is to the painter--capable of performing wonders with men of genius. some of the bonbons which may be seen in the shops are proofs of what i assert; and many things are so cleverly done, that many persons would believe that they were either formed in a mold or modeled. i have not space to enlarge further on this subject, but much more might be given in explanation; therefore the artist must be guided by his own genius and fancy. pastile drops. choose the best treble-refined sugar with a good grain, pound it, and pass it through a coarse hair sieve; sift again in a lawn-sieve to take out the finest part, as the sugar, when it is too fine, makes the drops heavy and compact, and destroys their brilliancy and shining appearance. put some of the coarse grains of sugar into a small drop-pan (these are made with a lip on the right side, so that when it is held in the left hand the drops can be detached with the right), moisten it with any aromatic spirit you intend to use, and a sufficient quantity of water to make it of a consistence just to drop off the spoon or spatula without sticking to it. color with prepared cochineal, or any other color, ground fine and moistened with a little water. let the tint which you give be as light and delicate as possible. place the pan on the stove fire, on a ring of the same size. stir it occasionally until it makes a noise, when it is near boiling, _but do not let it boil_; then take it from the fire and stir it well with the spatula until it is of the consistence that, when dropped, it will not spread too much, but retain a round form on the surface. if it should be too thin, add a little coarse sugar, which should be reserved for the purpose, and make it of the thickness required. have some very smooth and even plates, made either of tin or copper, let them be quite clean, and drop them on these, separating the sugar from the lip of the pan with a piece of straight wire, as regularly as possible. about two hours afterwards they may be taken off with a thin knife. if you have not the convenience of tin or copper plates, they may be dropped on smooth cartridge paper. wet the back of the paper when you want to take them off. cover the bottom of a sieve with paper, lay them on it, and put them in the stove for a few hours. if they remain too long, it will destroy their fragrancy. catechu drops.--one pound of sugar, three ounces of catechu. make as violet. these may also have the addition of a little musk or ambergris--about fifteen grains. chocolate drops.--one pound of sugar, one ounce of chocolate. scrape the chocolate to a powder, and mix it with the sugar in coarse grains, moisten it with clean water, and proceed according to the instructions already given, but do not mix more than can be dropped out whilst warm at one time. if any remains in the pot, it will grease the next which you mix, and will not attain the consistence required. cinnamon drops.--one ounce of cinnamon, one pound of sugar. pulverize the cinnamon, and sift it through a lawn sieve. mix it with the sugar, and add two or three drops of the essential oil. if the flavor is not strong enough, moisten it with the water and proceed as before. the flavor may be given with the essential oil only, coloring them with bole ammoniac. clove drops.--make same as cinnamon drops. coffee drops.--one ounce of coffee, one pound of sugar. make a strong and clear infusion of coffee, as directed for coffee ice, and use it to moisten the sugar. make the drops same as chocolate. ginger drops.--mix a sufficient quantity of the best powdered ginger to give it the desired taste, or flavor it with the essence of ginger, and color it with saffron. moisten with water, and make as others. lemon drops.--rub off the yellow rind of some lemons on a piece of rough sugar, scrape it off, and mix it with the coarse sugar. use sufficient to give a good flavor, and color with saffron a light yellow; moisten with water, as others. orange-flower drops.--use orange-flower water to moisten the sugar, or flavor it with the essence of neroli and moisten with water. orgeat drops.--make milk of almonds, as directed under the head of orgeat syrup, using a little orange-flower water; moisten the sugar with it. peppermint drops.--moisten the sugar with peppermint water, or flavor it with the essence of peppermint, and moisten it with water. raspberry drops.--press out the juice of some ripe raspberries through a piece of flannel or cloth, and moisten the sugar with it. all fruit drops are made in the same way, that is, with the expressed juice, except pineapple. when you first rub off the rind of the fruit on sugar, pound the pulp of the fruit, and pass through a hair sieve. scrape off the sugar on which the rind was rubbed, and mix it with a sufficient quantity of the pulp to give the desired flavor to the coarse grains, and moisten it with water. the whole of these grease the sugar, and require the same precautions as chocolate drops. rose drops.--moisten the sugar with rose water, and color it with cochineal. vanilla drops.--make as cinnamon, using a little sugar to pound the vanilla. use sufficient to give a good flavor; or it may be moistened with the essence of vanilla; but this greases it as chocolate. violet drops.--one pound of sugar, one ounce of orris-powder. moisten with water, and color violet. syrups. these are either the juices of fruits, or a decoction or infusion of the leaves, flowers or roots of vegetables, impregnated with a sufficient quantity of sugar for their preservation, and retaining them in a liquid state. a great portion of this class comes more under the notice of the apothecary than the confectioner; but it may now be considered, with lozenges, as a branch of pharmacy in the hands of the latter, the most agreeable of which are now manufactured by him to supply the place of fresh fruits, etc., when out of season, for the making of cooling drinks, ices, etc., for balls and routs. general rules and observations.--two things are essentially necessary to be observed, which are:--the proper methods of making decoctions and infusions. these require some knowledge of the nature and properties of vegetable matter. the virtues of most plants are extracted by infusion, and this is generally the case with aromatic plants, and those whose properties depend on an essential oil; for, in boiling the whole of the aroma of the plant is dispersed, and the syrup loses that delicate flavor for which it is prized. aromatic herbs, and the leaves of plants in general, yield their virtues most perfectly when moderately dried. cold water extracts from these in a few hours the lighter, more fragrant and agreeable parts, and then begins to take up the more ungrateful and grosser. by pouring the same liquor on fresh parcels of the herb, it becomes stronger, richer, thicker, and balsamic. those only should be decocted whose principles consist of mucilage, gum, or resin, and require boiling to extract them. the compact resinous woods, roots and barks yield their virtues most freely while fresh. dry, they yield little to cold or moderately warm water, and require it to be boiling. by this process the grosser, more fixed saline and mucilaginous parts are dissolved, the resinous melted out, and the volatile dissipated. infusions.--these are watery solutions of vegetable matter obtained by maceration, either in hot or cold water, with the assistance of ebullition. in selecting and conducting the operation, the following general rules should be observed: "1st. infusion should always be preferred before decoction, where the virtues of the vegetable substance reside in volatile oil, or in principles which are easily soluble, whereas, if they depend upon resino-mucilaginous particles, decoction is an indispensable operation. "2d. the temperature employed must be varied according to the circumstances of each case, and infusion made with cold is in general more grateful but less active than one made with heat. "3d. the duration of the process must likewise be regulated by the nature of the substances; for the infusion will differ according to the time in which the water has been digested on the materials; thus the aroma of the plant is first taken up, then in succession the coloring, astringent, and gummy parts. decoctions.--"these are solutions of the active principles of vegetables, obtained by boiling them in water. "1st. those principles only should be decocted whose virtues reside in principles which are soluble in water. "2d. if the active principle be volatile, decoction must be an injurious process; and if it consists of extractive matter, long boiling, by favoring its oxidizement, will render it insipid, insoluble, and inert. "3d. the substances to be decocted should be previously bruised or sliced, so as to expose an extended surface to the action of the water. "4th. the substances should be completely covered with water, and the vessel slightly closed, in order to prevent as much as possible the access of air; the boiling should be continued without interruption, and gently. "5th. in compound decoctions, it is sometimes convenient not to put in all the ingredients from the beginning, but in succession, according to their hardness, and the difficulty with which their virtues are extracted; and if any aromatic, or other substances containing volatile principles, or oxidizable matter, enter into the composition, the boiling decoction should be simply poured upon them, and covered up until cold. "6th. the relative proportions of different vegetable substances to the water must be regulated by their nature. the following general rule may be admitted: of roots, barks, or dried woods, from two drachms to six to every pint of water; of herbs or flowers, half that quantity will suffice. "7th. the decoction ought to be filtered through linen while hot, as important portions of the dissolved matter are frequently deposited on cooling; care must also be taken that the filter is not too fine, for it frequently happens that the virtues of a decoction depend upon the presence of particles in a minutely divided state."--_paris's pharmacologia._ all acid syrups ought to have their full quantity of sugar, so as to bring them to a consistence without boiling, because the very action of much heat destroys their acidity, and makes them liable to candy, and this more particularly holds good where the infusion or juice, etc., has any fragrancy in flavor, because the volatile oil is dissipated by boiling. the same observation is also applicable to those infusions of flowers which give out their color, and which is necessary to be retained, such as violets, pinks, etc., as boiling injures them. those syrups which are made from decoctions, and do not take a sufficient quantity of sugar to bring them to a due consistence without boiling, require to be clarified so as to render them transparent; but this is often an injury, as the whites of eggs take off some of their chief properties with the scum; therefore, the decoction should first be rendered clear by settling or filtering, and the sugar should be clarified and boiled to the height of the feather or ball before the decoction is added, when it may be reduced to the proper degree. the best and most general method of making syrups is to add a sufficient quantity of the finest loaf sugar, in powder, with the juice or infusion, etc., stirring it well until a small portion settles at the bottom, then place the pan in a larger one containing water; this is termed the bain-marie; put it on the fire, and the heat of the water as it boils will dissolve the sugar; when this has been thoroughly effected, take it off and let it cool; if more sugar is added than the quantity above named, it will separate in crystals, and not leave sufficient remaining in the syrup for its preservation. (see observations on sugar-boiling.) when cold, put it into small bottles, fill them, cork closely, and keep in a dry cool place. be particularly careful that no tinned articles are used in the making of syrups from the juice of red fruits, as it will act on the tin and change the color to a dead blue. syrup of almonds--sirop de orgeat.--one pound of sweet almonds, four ounces of bitter ones, one pint and a half of water, sugar three pounds, orange-flower water two ounces. blanch the almonds, and as they are blanched throw them into cold water; when they are finished, take them out and pound them in a marble mortar, sprinkling them with a little orange-flower water, to prevent their oiling, or use water with the juice of a lemon; add sufficient in the pounding to reduce them to a paste, and when quite fine add half a pint more water; mix, and strain through a tamis cloth twisted tight by two persons; receive the milk which comes from the almonds into a basin; what is left in the cloth must be pounded again with some of the water, and strained. continue this until the whole of the milk is obtained, and the water is consumed; then clarify, and boil the sugar to the crack; add the milk of almonds, and reduce it to the pearl; then strain it again, add the orange-flower water, and stir it well until nearly cold; when cold, bottle; shake the bottles well for several succeeding days, if you see it at all inclined to separate, which will prevent it. brandy and wine syrups may be made in the same manner as syrup of rum punch. coffee, syrup of.--fresh roasted mocha coffee two pounds, water one quart, sugar three pounds eight ounces. grind the coffee in a mill, and make a cold infusion with the water in a close vessel; let it stand for a day, then filter it through blotting paper, add the sugar, and finish in the bain-marie. coltsfoot, syrup of.--fresh coltsfoot flowers, one pound eight ounces; water, one quart; sugar, three pounds. pick the flowers about february, and make an infusion of them with hot water; strain, and finish as wormwood syrup. two or three handfuls of the leaves may be pounded and infused instead of the flowers. currant syrup.--one pint of juice, two pounds of sugar. mix together three pounds of currants, half white and half red, one pound of raspberries and one pound of cherries, without the stones; mash the fruit, and let it stand in a warm place for three or four days, keeping it covered with a coarse cloth, or a piece of paper with holes pricked in it, to keep out any dust or dirt. filter the juice, add the sugar in powder, finish in the bain-marie, and skim it. when cold, put it into bottles, fill them, and cork well. ginger, syrup of.--ginger, two ounces; water, one pint; sugar, two pounds. slice the root if fresh, or bruise it if dried; pour the water on it boiling, and let it macerate in a warm place for a day; then strain, and boil to the pearl. another.--a better flavored and a richer ginger syrup is made in the following manner: take any quantity of scraped white jamaica ginger and infuse for several days in good spirits of wine; decant the clear liquor when sufficiently saturated with the ginger, and add to the hot sugar, previously boiled to the ball or feather, a sufficient quantity of the liquor to impart to the syrup the agreeable aroma of the ginger root. the spirit will be rapidly driven off when it is poured into the boiling syrup, and a bland and beautiful syrup will be the result; let it cool, and bottle immediately. gooseberry syrup.--one pint of juice, one pound twelve ounces of sugar. to twelve pounds of ripe gooseberries add two pounds of cherries without stones, squeeze out the juice, and finish as others. lemon syrup.--one pint and a quarter of juice, two pounds of sugar. let the juice stand in a cool place to settle. when a thin skin is formed on the top, pour it off and filter, add the sugar, and finish in the bain-marie. if the flavor of the peel is preferred with it, grate off the yellow rind of the lemons and mix it with the juice to infuse, or rub it off on part of the sugar and add it with the remainder when you finish it. licorice, syrup of.--licorice-root two ounces, white maidenhair one ounce, hyssop half an ounce, boiling water three pints; slice the root and cut the herbs small, infuse in the water for twenty-four hours, strain and add sufficient sugar, or part sugar and honey, to make a syrup; boil to the large pearl. an excellent pectoral. marshmallows, syrup of--sirop de guimauve.--fresh mallow roots eight ounces, water one quart, sugar three pounds. cleanse the roots, and slice them; make a decoction (see decoctions), boiling it a quarter of an hour, so as to obtain the mucilage of the root; strain, and finish as wormwood. one ounce of licorice-root and one ounce of white maidenhair, with a few stoned raisins, may be added. morello cherry syrup.--take the stones out of the cherries, mash them, and press out the juice in an earthen pan; let it stand in a cool place for two days, then filter; add two pounds of sugar to one pint of juice, finish in the bain-marie, or stir it well on the fire, and give it one or two boils. mulberry syrup.--one pint of juice, one pound twelve ounces of sugar. press out the juice and finish as cherry syrup. orange-flower syrup.--picked orange-flowers one pound, sugar three pounds. take one half of the sugar and make a syrup, which boil to the large pearl, put the flowers in a basin or jar, and pour the syrup on them boiling hot, cover the jar or basin quite close and let them infuse in it for five or six hours, then drain off the syrup, boil the remaining portion of sugar, and pour over them as before; when cold, strain and bottle. orange syrup.--same as lemon syrup. pineapple syrup.--take one and a half pints of syrup boiled to the ball; add to this, one pint of the juice of the best havana pineapples, let it then come to a boil, remove the scum, and bottle when cool. pinks, syrups of.--clove pinks one pound eight ounces, water two pints and a half, sugar three pounds. let the flowers be fresh-gathered, cut off the white points of the petals and weigh them. finish as syrup of violets. this syrup may be made with a cold infusion of the flowers, first pounding them with a little water in a marble mortar. finish as before. if the flowers of the clove pink cannot be obtained, use other pinks, adding a few cloves to infuse with them, so as to give the flavor. raspberry syrup.--one pint of juice, two pounds of sugar. choose the fruit either red or white, mash it in a pan, and put it in a warm place for two or three days, or until the fermentation has commenced. all mucilaginous fruits require this, or else it would jelly after it is bottled. filter the juice through a flannel bag, add the sugar in powder, place in the bain-marie, and stir it until dissolved; take it off, let it get cold, take off the scum, and bottle it. raspberry vinegar syrup.--one pint of juice, two pints of apple vinegar, four pounds and a half of sugar. prepare the juice as before, adding the vinegar with it, using white raspberries; strain the juice, and boil to the pearl. three pounds of raspberries, two pints of vinegar, three pounds of sugar. put the raspberries into the vinegar without mashing them, cover the pan close, and let it remain in a cellar for seven or eight days: then filter the infusion, add the sugar in powder, and finish in the bain-marie. this is superior to the first, as the beautiful aroma of the fruit is lost in the boiling, as may be well known by its scenting the place where it is done, or even the whole house; the fruit may also be afterwards used with more, for raspberry cakes. roses, syrup of.--the dried leaves of provence roses eight ounces, double rose leaves six ounces, water one quart, sugar four pounds. pour the water on the leaves when nearly boiling into a glazed earthen vessel, cover it quite close, and let it remain in a warm place for a day; then strain and finish as violets. the leaves of the damask rose are purgative. rum punch, syrup of.--jamaica rum one quart, the juice of twelve or fourteen lemons, sugar four pounds. rub off the yellow rind of half of the lemons on a piece of the sugar, and scrape it off with a knife into a basin as it imbibes the oil; clarify and boil the remaining portion to the crack; strain the juice into the rum and add to it the sugar with that on which the peels were rubbed; mix together, and give it one boil. the yellow rind of the peels may be cut off very thin, and infused in the spirit for some days before the syrup is made. sarsaparilla, syrup of.--half a pound of bruised sarsaparilla root, two ounces of ground orange peel, one ounce liquorice root, sassafras bark bruised two ounces, one gallon of water; boil to half a gallon; strain; to each pint of liquor add one pound of sugar; put on the fire till it boils, and take off the scum which may arise. sirop de capillaire--syrup of maidenhair.--there are several sorts of maidenhair, but the best is that of canada, which has a pleasant smell joined to its pectoral qualities. the true maidenhair--_capillus veneris_--is a native of italy and of the southern parts of france. it has an agreeable but very weak smell. common or english maidenhair--_trichomanes_--is usually substituted for the true, and occasionally for the canadian. its leaves consist of small round divisions, growing as it were in pairs. it grows on rocks, old walls, and shady banks, and should be gathered in september. black maidenhair--_adianthum nigrum_--has smooth and shining leaves, the middle rib being black, and the seeds are all spread on the back of the leaf. it grows on shady banks, and on the roots of trees. white maidenhair--wall rue--tent wort--_ruta murana salvia vitã¦_. the leaves of this are shaped something like rue, and covered all over the back with a small seed-like dust. golden maidenhair--_muscus capillaris_--grows in moist places, and the pedicle arises from the top of the stalk. i have given these particulars, because i find they are often substituted one for the other by persons who are not aware that there is any difference. although all of them have nearly the same qualities, only two have a volatile oil, but they are all mucilaginous. canada capillaire two ounces, sugar two pounds. chop the capillaire into small bits, and make as orange-flower syrup. by this method the oil is not allowed to escape, which, being exceedingly odoriferous and volatile, is soon dissipated if boiled; or make a cold infusion (see infusions) of the plant by putting one quart of water to four ounces of capillaire, add four pounds of sugar, and finish in the bain-marie, adding one ounce of orange-flower water. [this is a fashionable and delicate syrup, but is rarely obtained genuine.] simple syrup, flavored with orange-flower water, is usually substituted for it. sirop de pistache is made in the same manner as syrup of almonds, coloring it green with a little spinach. strawberry syrup.--make as pineapple, taking care to strain carefully at least twice, through a fine flannel bag, so as to remove entirely all sediment and the small seed of the fruit. violets, syrup of.--one pound of violet flowers, one quart of water, four pounds of sugar. put the flowers cleared from their stalks and calyx, into a glazed earthen pan; pour on the water boiling hot, and stop the pan quite close; let it remain in a warm place for a day, then strain off the infusion through a thin cloth; add the sugar, and place in a bain-marie; stir it well and heat it until you can scarcely bear your finger in it; then take it off, and when cold, bottle. a laxative. this syrup is often adulterated by being made with the flowers of heartsease, or columbine scented with orris-root, and colored. wormwood, syrup of.--there are three sorts of wormwood most generally known--the common, sea, and roman. the first may be distinguished by its broad leaves, which are divided into roundish segments of a dull green color above, and whitish underneath; its taste is an intense and disagreeable bitter. the sea wormwood has smaller leaves, and hoary both above and underneath; it grows in salt marshes, and about the sea-coasts; the smell and taste are not so strong and disagreeable as the common. the roman differs from the others by the plant being smaller in all its parts; the leaves are divided into fine filaments and hoary all over, the stalk being either entirely, or in part of a purple color. its smell is pleasant, and the bitterness not disagreeable; it is cultivated in gardens. the sea wormwood is generally substituted for it. the tops of roman wormwood, two ounces; water, one pint; sugar, two pounds. make an infusion of the leaves in warm water; strain; add the sugar to the infusion, and boil to the pearl. if the common wormwood only can be obtained, put the tops into three times the above quantity of water, and boil it over a strong fire until reduced to a pint. this will deprive it of part of its bitterness and disagreeable smell. the stove or hot closet. this is a useful and indispensable appendage in confectionary; it is generally constructed like a cupboard in the recess of a wall. the walls or sides should be composed of bricks, or wood lined with tin or sheet iron, to retain the heat, with pieces of wood nailed or fastened in the sides, about four inches asunder, to form a groove for trays or boards to rest on, which is necessary for the drying of lozenges, comfits, bonbons, &c.; there should also be a few strong shifting shelves made either of small bars of round iron or wood, like a grating, on which candy pots or sieves may be placed; the grooves for these should be so constructed as to be capable of inclination so as to drain off the syrup from the candy pots without taking them from the shelves; the door should be made to shut close, with a small door at the top to let out any excess of heat. i have before remarked that it may be heated by means of the modern stoves. at places where the oven is heated with wood, furze, etc., a common iron pot or crock with three legs is filled with the live embers, or it may be filled with burning charcoal and covered with wood ashes, which is replenished night and morning, which gives the heat required. sugar spinning. to attain proficiency in this part, it requires much practice, and also a good taste for design, and to be expert in the boiling of sugar, taking particular care to avoid its graining. baskets, temples, vases, fountains, etc., are made by these means. it may almost be termed the climax of the art. the molds for this purpose may be made either of copper or tin, so as to deliver well. let them be slightly rubbed all over, on the part you intend to spin the sugar, with butter or oil. boil clarified syrup to the degree of caramel, taking care to keep the sides of the pan free from sugar. the moment it is at the crack, add a little acid to grease it (see sugar boiling). when it has attained the required degree, dip the bottom of the pan in cold water, take it out, and let it cool a little; then take a common table-spoon, dip it in the sugar, holding the mold in your left hand, and from the spoon run the sugar over the mold, either inside or out, with the threads which flow from it, which may be either fine or coarse, according to the state of the sugar; if they are required very coarse, pass the hand over them two or three times; for when it is hot it flows in finer strings than it will when cooler; form it on the mold into a sort of trellis-work; loosen it from the mold carefully, and let it remain until quite cold before it is taken off, that it may retain its shape. when the sugar gets too cold to flow from the spoon, place it by the side of the stove or fire to melt. young beginners had better draw their designs for handles of baskets, etc., on a stone with a pencil before it is oiled, and then spin the sugar over them. almond baskets.--blanch some fine jordan almonds, and cut them into thin slices, and color them in a small copper pan, over the fire, with prepared liquid color (see colors). put them into the pan, and pour in color sufficient to give the desired tint; rub them about in the pan with your hand until they are quite dry; form them as for a chantilly basket, or else form them on an oiled marble slab, and spin sugar over them on each side. afterwards arrange them in a mold, or build them to any design, first having a pattern cut out in paper, and form them on the stone from it. chantilly baskets.--prepare some ratafias, let them be rather small, and as near of a size as possible; boil some sugar to the caramel degree, rub over the inside of a mold slightly with oil, dip the edge of the ratafias in sugar and stick them together, the face of the ratafias being towards the mold, except the last two rows on the top, which should be reversed, remembering always to place their faces to meet the eye when the sugar is cold; take it out and join the bottom and top together with the same sugar; make a handle of spun sugar and place over it. some sugar may be spun over the inside of the basket to strengthen it, as directed for webs. line the inside with pieces of savoy or sponge cakes, and fill it with custard or whipped cream, or the slices of cake may be spread with raspberry jam. half fill it with boiled custard, then put in a few savoy or almond cakes, soaked in wine, and cover the top with whipped cream; or it may be filled with fancy pastry or meringues. all sorts of fancy cakes may be made into baskets or ratafias. gold web, to make a.--boil syrup to caramel height, coloring it with saffron, and form it as directed in making silver web. it can be folded up to form bands or rings, etc. fasten it to the other decorations with caramel. if any of the strings or threads of sugar should pass over those parts where they are not required, so as to spoil the other decorations in the making of baskets or other ornaments, it may be removed with a hot knife without breaking or injuring the piece. grape, orange, or cherry baskets.--these are made similar to the chantilly baskets; the oranges are carefully peeled and divided into small pieces, taking off the pith. insert a small piece of stick or whisk in the end of each, dip them in caramel, and form them on the inside of an oiled mold. cherries and grapes may be used either fresh, or preserved wet, and dried. dip them in caramel, and form them as oranges. each of these, or any other fruit, after being dipped in caramel, may be laid on an oiled marble slab separately, and served on plates in a pyramid, with fancy papers, flowers, etc. the baskets are finished as chantilly, with spun sugar. silver web, to make a.--boil clarified syrup to the crack, using the same precautions as before observed, giving it a few boils after the acid is added; dip the bottom of the pan in water, and let the sugar cool a little; then take the handle of a spoon, or two forks tied together, dip it into the sugar, and form it either on the inside or outside of a mold, with very fine strings, by passing the hand quickly backwards and forwards, taking care that it does not fall in drops, which would spoil the appearance of the work. with this may be represented the hair of a helmet, the water of a fountain, etc. take a fork, or an iron skewer, and hold it in your left hand as high as you can, dip the spoon in the sugar, and with the right hand throw it over the skewer, when it will hang from it in very fine threads of considerable length. spanish candy.--boil a quart of clarified syrup to the crack. have some icing previously prepared as for cakes, or mix some fine powdered loaf sugar with the white of an egg to a thick consistency as for icing; take the sugar from the fire, and as soon as the boiling has gone down stir in a spoonful of this or the icing, which must be done very quickly, without stopping. let it rise once and fall; the second time it rises, pour it out in a mold or paper case, and cover it with the pan to prevent its falling. some persons pour it out the first time it rises, and immediately cover it as before. it may be made good both ways. if it is required colored, add the coloring to the syrup while it is boiling, or with the icing, adding more sugar to give it the same stiffness as before. jellies. apple jelly.--take either russet pippins, or any good baking apples; pare and core them, cut them in slices into a preserving-pan containing sufficient water to cover them; then put them on the fire, and boil them until they are reduced to a mash. put it into a hair-sieve, that the water may drain off, which you receive in a basin or pan; then filter it through a flannel bag. to every pint of filtered juice add one pound of loaf sugar, clarify and boil it to the ball. mix the juice with it and boil until it jellies; stir it with a spatula or wooden-spoon, from the bottom, to prevent burning. when it is boiled enough, if you try it with your finger and thumb, as directed in sugar-boiling, a string may be drawn similar to the small pearl; it may also be known by its adhering to the spatula or spoon, or a little may be dropped on a cold plate; if it soon sets, it is done. take off the scum which rises on the top. this is in general used for pouring over preserved wet fruits. this jelly may be colored red with prepared cochineal. barberry jelly.--take some very ripe barberries, pick them from their stalks, and weigh them. to every pound of fruit take three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar; add sufficient water to make it into a syrup, put in the barberries, and boil them until the syrup comes to the pearl, taking off any scum which may rise. then throw them into a fine hair or lawn sieve, and press the berries with a spoon to extract as much juice as possible from them. receive the syrup and juice in a pan, put it again on the fire, and finish as apple jelly. blackberry jelly.--make as currant jelly--using half a gallon of raspberries to one gallon of black currants; finish as usual. cherry jelly.--pick off the stalks and take out the stones of some fine ripe morello cherries, and to every four pounds of cherries add one pound of red currants; proceed as for currant jelly. gooseberry jelly.--make as currant jelly; or it may be made of green gooseberries, as apple jelly. quince jelly.--this is made as apple jelly. the seed of the quince is very mucilaginous. an ounce of bruised seed will make pints of water as thick as the white of an egg. cherry marmalade or jam.--take out the stones and stalks from some fine cherries and pulp them through a cane sieve; to every three pounds of pulp add half a pint of currant juice, and three-quarters of a pound of sugar to each pound of fruit; mix together and boil until it will jelly. put it into pots or glasses. currants, raspberries, plums and gooseberries are all made in the same manner. pulp the fruit through a cane sieve, the meshes of which are not large enough to admit a currant to pass through whole. to each pound of pulp add one pound of loaf sugar, broken small, and boil to the consistence of a jelly. apple marmalade.--take a peck of apples, full grown, but not the least ripe, of all or any sort; quarter them and take out the cores, but do not pare them; put them into a preserving-pan with one gallon of water, and let them boil moderately until you think the pulp will run, or suffer itself to be squeezed through a cheese-cloth, only leaving the peels behind. then to each quart of pulp add one pound, good weight, of loaf sugar, either broken in small pieces or pounded, and boil it all together for half an hour and ten minutes, keeping it stirred; then put it into pots, the larger the better, as it keeps longer in a large body. gooseberry jam.--three pounds of loaf sugar, six pounds of rough red gooseberries. pick off the stalks and buds from the gooseberries, and boil them carefully but quickly for rather more than half an hour, stirring continually; then add the sugar, pounded fine, and boil the jam quickly for half an hour, stirring it all the time to prevent its sticking to the preserving-pan. when done put it into pots, cover it with brandy paper, and secure it closely down with paper moistened with the white of an egg. * * * * * how to do tricks.--the great book of magic and card tricks, containing full instructions of all the leading card tricks of the day, also the most popular magical illusions as performed by our leading magicians; every boy should obtain a copy, as it will both amuse and instruct. for sale by all newsdealers, or will be sent, postage free, on receipt of price. address frank tousey, publisher, 34 and 36 north moore street, new york. box 2730. how to tell fortunes.--every one is desirous of knowing what their future life will bring forth, whether happiness or misery, wealth or poverty. you can tell by a glance at this little book. buy one and be convinced. tell your own fortune. tell the fortunes of your friends. price 10 cents. frank tousey, publisher, 34 and 36 north moore street, new york. box 2730. how to become beautiful.--one of the brightest and most valuable little books ever given to the world. everybody wishes to know how to become beautiful, both male and female. the secret is simple, and almost costless. read this book and be convinced. "how to become beautiful." price 10 cents. for sale by book and newsdealers, or send 10 cents to frank tousey, 34 and 36 north moore street, new york, and it will be mailed to your address post-paid. the james boys. the only true and authentic tales of these noted bandits --by d. w. stevens,- are published in the new york detective library. price 10 cents per copy, 32 pages. read the following list of a few of the latest stories about these well-known characters: no. 484 the james boys' blunder; or, the fatal mistake at northfield. 474 the james boys in deadwood; or, the game pair of dakota. 470 the man on the black horse; or, the james boys' first ride in missouri. 467 frank james, the avenger, and his surrender. 466 the life and death of jesse james and lives of the ford boys. 464 the james boys in new orleans; or, wild adventures in the south. 461 the james boys' trip around the world; or, carl greene, the detective's longest chase. 453 jesse james' pledge; or, the bandit king's last ride. 446 the james boys in minnesota, and the james boys and timberlake. 442 mysterious ike; or, the masked unknown. 438 the james boys in no man's land; or, the bandit king's last ride. 433 after the james boys; or, chased through three states by day and by night. 430 the james boys in court and the james boys' longest chase. 428 the james boys at bay; or, sheriff timberlake's triumph. 426 the james boys' cave, and the james boys as train wreckers. 425 thirty days with the james boys; or, a detective's wild chase in kentucky. 421 the james boys afloat; or, the wild adventures of a detective on the mississippi. 419 the james boys in mexico and the james boys in california. 413 the james boys tricked; or, a detective's cunning game. 410 the james boys captured; or, a young detective's thrilling chase. 409 the last of the band; or, the surrender of frank james. 404 jesse james' last shot; or, tracked by the ford boys. 400 the james boys lost; or, the detective's curious case. 396 the james boys and pinkerton; or, frank and jesse as detectives. for sale by all newsdealers in the united states and canada, or sent to your address, postage free, on receipt of price. address frank tousey, publisher, p. o. box 2730. 34 & 36 north moore st., n. y. --list of- frank reade stories published in the great 5 cent wide awake library. 541 frank reade and his steam man of the plains. 553 frank reade and his steam horse. 597 frank reade and his steam team. 607 frank reade and his steam tally-ho. 625 frank reade, jr., and his steam wonder. 627 frank reade, jr., and his electric boat. 629 frank reade, jr., and his adventures with his latest invention. 631 frank reade, jr., and his air-ship. 633 frank reade, jr.'s marvel. 651 frank reade, jr., in the clouds. 667 frank reade, jr.'s great electric tricycle. 697 frank reade, jr., with his air-ship in africa. 744 across the continent on wings; or, frank reade, jr.'s greatest flight. 750 frank reade, jr., exploring mexico in his new air-ship. 791 the electric man; or, frank reade, jr., in australia. 815 the electric horse; or, frank reade, jr., and his father in search of the lost treasure of the peruvians. 849 frank reade, jr.'s chase through the clouds. 855 frank reade, jr., and his electric team. 877 frank reade jr.'s search for a sunken ship. 935 frank reade, jr., in the far west; or, the search for a lost gold mine. 993 frank reade, jr., and his queen clipper of the clouds, part i. 994 frank reade, jr., and his queen clipper of the clouds, part ii. 1007 frank reade, jr., and his monitor of the air; or helping a friend in need. 1014 frank reade, jr., exploring a river of mystery. 1020 frank reade, jr., and his electric air yacht; or, the great inventor among the aztecs. 1051 frank reade, jr., in the sea of sand, and his discovery of a lost people. 1070 frank reade. jr., and his greyhound of the air; or, the search for the mountain of gold. for sale by all newsdealers in the united states and canada, or sent to your address, postage free, on receipt of price. address frank tousey, publisher, box 2730. 34 & 36 north moore st., n. y. old king brady stories --published in- the new york detective library. price 10 cents per copy. 154 old king brady, the detective. 157 old king brady's triumph. 162 old king brady's great reward; or, the haselhurst secret. 168 shoving the queer; or, old king brady on the scent of the counterfeiters. 177 old king brady in australia. 187 old king brady and the scotland yard detective. 191 two flights of stairs; or, old king brady and the missing will. 200 old king brady and the mystery of the bath. 208 the last stroke; or, old king brady and the broken bell. 221 a meerschaum pipe; or, old king brady and the yonkers mystery. 228 robbed of a million; or, old king brady and the iron box. 243 old king brady in ireland. 277 old king brady and the telephone mystery. 300 the mystery of a mummy; or, old king brady and the cartright case. 319 the s. p. q. r.; or, old king brady and the mystery of the palisades. 325 old king brady and the red leather bag. a weird story of land and sea. 332 a bag of shot; or, old king brady out west. 345 a pile of bricks; or, old king brady and the box of rubies. 354 the belt of gold; or, old king brady in peru. 359 old king brady and the james boys. 371 the haunted churchyard; or, old king brady, the detective, and the mystery of the iron vault. 377 the james boys in new york; or, fighting old king brady. 381 a piece of blotting paper; or, old king brady in philadelphia. 387 the james boys in boston; or, old king brady and the car of gold. 392 the murder of dr. burdell; or, old king brady and the bond street mystery. 402 a million in diamonds; or, old king brady in africa. 408 old king brady in siberia; or, the secret of the wooden god. 411 old king brady and "billy the kid"; or, the great detective's chase. 417 sentenced for life, and the house with 30 steps; or, old king brady and the great pearl street poisoning case. 420 old king brady and the ford boys. 424 99 99th street; or, the house without a door. 440 old king brady among the indians; or, sitting bull and the ghost dancers. 447 mr. lazarus of ludlow street; or, old king brady among the anarchists of new york. 452 chased over three continents and q; or, old king brady working on the great morgan mystery. 458 333; or, the secret of the diamond star. 460 the terrible mystery of car no. 206; or, old king brady and the man of gold. 462 the great aztec treasure; or, old king brady and the golden chest. for sale by all newsdealers in the united states and canada, or sent to your address, postage free, on receipt of price. address frank tousey, publisher, box 2730. 34 & 36 north moore street, n. y. the greatest stories of wonderful inventions and thrilling adventures --ever written are- the jack wright stories by "noname," --published in- the boys' star library price 5 cents per copy. 32 pages. read the list already issued: no. 216 jack wright, the boy inventor; or, hunting for a sunken treasure. 220 jack wright and his electric turtle; or, chasing the pirates of the spanish main. 223 jack wright's submarine catamaran; or, the phantom ship of the yellow sea. 227 jack wright and his ocean racer; or, around the world in twenty days. 229 jack wright and his electric canoe; or, working in the revenue service. 231 jack wright's air and water cutter; or, wonderful adventures on the wing and afloat. 235 jack wright and his magnetic motor; or, the golden city of the sierras. 238 jack wright, the boy inventor, and his under-water ironclad; or, the treasure of the sandy sea. 241 jack wright and his electric deers; or, fighting the bandits of the black hills. 246 jack wright and his prairie engine; or, among the bushmen of australia. for sale by all newsdealers in the united states and canada, or sent to your address, postage free, on receipt of price. address frank tousey, publisher, box 2730. 34 & 36 north moore street, n. y. our 10 cent books _useful, instructive and amusing._ containing valuable information on almost every subject, such as =writing=, =speaking=, =dancing=, =flirting=, =cooking=; also, =rules of etiquette=, =the art of ventriloquism=, =gymnastic exercises=, and =the science of self-defense=. no. price. 1. napoleon's oraculum and dream book, 10c 2. how to do tricks, 10c 3. how to flirt, 10c 4. how to dance, 10c 5. how to make love, 10c 6. how to become an athlete, 10c 7. how to keep birds, 10c 8. how to become a scientist, 10c 9. how to become a ventriloquist, 10c 10. how to box, 10c 11. how to write love letters, 10c 12. how to write letters to ladies, 10c 13. how to do it; or, book of etiquette, 10c 14. how to make candy, 10c 15. how to become rich, 10c 16. how to keep a window garden, 10c 17. how to dress, 10c 18. how to become beautiful, 10c 19. frank tousey's united states distance tables, pocket companion and guide, 10c 20. how to entertain an evening party, 10c 21. how to hunt and fish, 10c 22. how to do second sight, 10c 23. how to explain dreams, 10c 24. how to write letters to gentlemen, 10c 25. how to become a gymnast, 10c 26. how to row, sail and build a boat, 10c 27. how to recite and book of recitations, 10c 28. how to tell fortunes, 10c 29. how to become an inventor, 10c 30. how to cook, 10c 31. how to become a speaker, 10c 32. how to ride a bicycle, 10c 33. how to behave, 10c 34. how to fence, 10c 35. how to play games, 10c 36. how to solve conundrums, 10c 37. how to keep house, 10c 38. how to become your own doctor, 10c 39. how to raise dogs, poultry, pigeons and rabbits. 10c 40. how to make and set traps, 10c 41. the boys of new york end men's joke book, 10c 42. the boys of new york stump speaker, 10c 43. how to become a magician, 10c 44. how to write in an album, 10c 45. the boys of new york minstrel guide and joke book, 10c 46. how to make and use electricity, 10c 47. how to break, ride and drive a horse, 10c 48. how to build and sail canoes, 10c 49. how to debate, 10c 50. how to stuff birds and animals, 10c 51. how to do tricks with cards, 10c 52. how to play cards, 10c 53. how to write letters, 10c 54. how to keep and manage pets, 10c 55. how to collect stamps and coins, 10c 56. how to become an engineer, 10c 57. how to make musical instruments, 10c all the above books are for sale by newsdealers throughout the united states and canada, or they will be sent, postage paid, to your address, on receipt of 10 cents each. frank tousey, publisher. box 2730. 34 & 36 north moore st., n. y. * * * * * transcriber's note; italic text is denoted by _underscores_ and bold text by =equal signs=. words in small capitals are shown in uppercase. obvious typographical errors have been corrected. ******************************************************** note: project gutenberg also has an html version of this file which includes the original illustration. see 38029-h.htm or 38029-h.zip: (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/38029/38029-h/38029-h.htm) or (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/38029/38029-h.zip) [illustration: "good-bye, baltie, dear"] three little women, a story for girls by gabrielle e. jackson 1913 contents chapter i--the carruths chapter ii--"baltie" chapter iii--the spirit of mad anthony chapter iv--baltie is rescued chapter v--a new member of the family chapter vi--blue monday chapter vii--mammy generalissimo chapter viii--chemical experiments chapter ix--spontaneous combustion chapter x--readjustment chapter xi--first ventures chapter xii--another shoulder is added chapter xiii--the battle of town and gown chapter xiv--the candy enterprise grows chapter xv--the reckoning chapter xvi--united we stand, divided we fall chapter xvii--a family council chapter xviii--"save me from my friends" chapter xix--"an auction extraordinary" chapter xx--constance b.'s venture chapter xxi--constance b.'s candies chapter xxii--first steps chapter xxiii--opening day chapter xxiv--one month later chapter i the carruths the afternoon was a wild one. all day driving sheets of rain had swept along the streets of riveredge, hurled against windowpanes by fierce gusts of wind, or dashed in miniature rivers across piazzas. at noon it seemed as though the wind meant to change to the westward and the clouds break, but the promise of better weather had failed, and although the rain now fell only fitfully in drenching showers, and one could "run between the drops" the wind still blustered and fumed, tossing the wayfarers about, and tearing from the trees what foliage the rain had spared, to hurl it to the ground in sodden masses. it was more like a late november than a late september day, and had a depressing effect upon everybody. "i want to go out; i want to go out; i want to go out, _out_, out!" cried little jean carruth, pressing her face against the window-pane until from the outside her nose appeared like a bit of white paper stuck fast to the glass. "if you do you'll get wet, _wet_, wet, as sop, _sop_, sop, and then mother'll ask what _we_ were about to let you," said a laughing voice from the farther side of the room, where constance, her sister, nearly five years her senior, was busily engaged in trimming a hat, holding it from her to get the effect of a fascinating bow she had just pinned upon one side. "but i haven't a single thing to do. all my lessons for monday are finished; i'm tired of stories; i'm tired of fancy work, and i'm tired of--_everything_ and i want to go _out_," ended the woe-begone voice in rapid crescendo. "do you think it would hurt her to go, eleanor?" asked constance, turning toward a girl who sat at a pretty desk, her elbows resting upon it and her hands propping her chin as she pored over a copy of the french revolution, but who failed to take the least notice of the question. constance made a funny face and repeated it. she might as well have kept silent for all the impression it made, and with a resigned nod toward jean she resumed her millinery work. but too much depended upon the reply for jean carruth to accept the situation so mildly. murmuring softly, "you wait a minute," she slipped noiselessly across the room and out into the broad hall beyond. upon a deep window-seat stood a papier-mâché megaphone. placing it to her lips, her eyes dancing with mischief above its rim, she bellowed: "eleanor maxwell carruth, do you think it would hurt me to go out now?" the effect was electrical. bounding from her chair with sufficient alacrity to send the french revolution crashing upon the floor, eleanor carruth clapped both hands over her ears, as she cried: "jean, you little imp of mischief!" "well, i wanted to make you hear me," answered that young lady complacently. "constance had spoken to you twice but you'd gone to france and couldn't hear her, so i thought maybe the megaphone would reach across the atlantic ocean, and it _did_. now can i go out?" "_can_ you or may you? which do you mean," asked the eldest sister somewhat sententiously. constance laughed softly in her corner. "o, fiddlesticks on your old english! i get enough of it five days in a week without having to take a dose of it saturday afternoon too. i know well enough that i _can_ go out, but whether you'll say yes is another question, and i want to," and jean puckered up her small pug-nose at her sister. "what a spunky little body it is," said the latter, laughing in spite of herself, for jean, the ten-year-old baby of the family was already proving that she was likely to be a very lively offspring of the carruth stock. "and where are you minded to stroll on this charming afternoon when everybody else is glad to sit in a snug room and take a saturday rest?" "mother isn't taking hers," was the prompt retort. "she's down helping pack the boxes that are to go to that girls' college out in iowa. she went in all the rain right after luncheon, and i guess if _she_ can go out while it poured 'cats and dogs,' i can when--when--when--well it doesn't even pour _cats_. it's almost stopped raining." "where _do_ you get hold of those awful expressions, jean? whoever heard of 'cats and dogs' pouring down? what _am_ i to do with you? i declare i feel responsible for your development and--" "then let me go _out_. i need some fresh air to develop in: my lungs don't pump worth a cent in this stuffy place. it's hot enough to roast a pig with those logs blazing in the fire-place. i don't see how you stand it." "go get your rubber boots and rain coat," said eleanor resignedly. "you're half duck, i firmly believe, and never so happy as when you're splashing through puddles. thank goodness your skirts are still short, and you can't very well get _them_ sloppy; and your boots will keep your legs dry unless you try wading up to your hips. but where are you going?" "i'm going down to amy fletcher's to see how bunny is. he got hurt yesterday and it's made him dreadfully sick," answered jean, as she struggled with her rubber boots, growing red in the face as she tugged at them. in five minutes she was equipped to do battle with almost any storm, and with a "good bye! i'll be back pretty soon, and then i'll have enough fresh air to keep me in fine shape for the night," out she flew, banging the front door behind her. eleanor watched the lively little figure as it went skipping down the street, a street which was always called a beautiful one, although now wet and sodden with the rain, for mr. carruth had built his home in a most attractive part of the delightful town of riveredge. maybe you won't find it on the map by that name, but it's _there_ just the same, and quite as attractive to-day as it was several years ago. bernard carruth had been a man of refined taste and possessed a keen appreciation of all that was beautiful, so it was not surprising that he should have chosen riveredge when deciding upon a place for his home. situated as it was on the banks of the splendid stream which had suggested its name, the town boasted unusual attractions, and drew to it an element which soon assured its development in the most satisfactory manner. it became noted for its beautiful homes, its cultured people and its delightful social life. among the prettiest of its homes was bernard carruth's. it stood but a short way from the river's bank, was built almost entirely of cobble-stones, oiled shingles being used where the stones were not practicable. it was made up of quaint turns and unexpected corners, although not a single inch of space, or the shape of a room was sacrificed to the oddity of the architecture. it was not a very large house nor yet a very small one, but as mr. carruth said when all was completed, the house sensibly and artistically furnished, and his family comfortably installed therein: "it is big enough for the big girl, our three little girls and their old daddy, and so what more can be asked? only that the good lord will spare us to each other to enjoy it." this was when jean was but a little more than two years of age, and for five years they _did_ enjoy it as only a closely united family can enjoy a charming home. then one of mr. carruth's college chums got into serious financial difficulties and bernard carruth indorsed heavily for him. the sequel was the same wretched old story repeated: ruin overtook the friend, and bernard carruth's substance was swept into the maelstrom which swallowed up everything. he never recovered from the blow, or false representations which led to it, learning unhappily, when the mischief was done, how sorely he had been betrayed, and within eighteen months from the date of indorsing his friend's paper he was laid away in pretty brookside cemetery, leaving his wife and three daughters to face the world upon a very limited income. this was a little more than two years before the opening of this story. little jean was now ten and a half, constance fifteen and eleanor, the eldest, nearly seventeen, although many judged her to be older, owing to her quiet, reserved manner and studious habits, for eleanor was, undoubtedly, "the brainy member of the family," as constance put it. she was a pupil in the riveredge seminary, and would graduate the following june; a privilege made possible by an aunt's generosity, since mrs. carruth had been left with little more than her home, which mr. carruth had given her as soon as it was completed, and the interest upon his life insurance which amounted to less than fifteen hundred a year; a small sum upon which to keep up the home, provide for and educate three daughters. constance was now a pupil at the riveredge high school and jean at the grammar school. both had been seminary pupils prior to mr. carruth's death, but expenses had to be curtailed at once. constance was the domestic body of the household; prettiest of the three, sunshiny, happy, resourceful, she faced the family's altered position bravely, giving up the advantages and delights of the seminary without a murmur and contributing to her mother's peace of mind to a degree she little guessed by taking the most optimistic view of the situation and meeting altered conditions with a laugh and a song, and the assurance that "_some_ day she was going to make her fortune and set 'em all up in fine shape once more." she got her sanguine disposition from her mother who never looked upon the dull side of the clouds, although it was often a hard matter to win around to their shiny side. eleanor was quite unlike her; indeed, eleanor did not resemble either her father or mother, for mr. carruth had been a most genial, warm-hearted man, and unselfish to the last degree. eleanor was very reserved, inclined to keep her affairs to herself, and extremely matured for her years, finding her relaxation and recreation in a manner which the average girl of her age would have considered tasks. jean was a bunch of nervous impulses, and no one ever knew where the madcap would bounce up next. she was a beautiful child with a mop of wavy reddish-brown hair falling in the softest curls about face and shoulders; eyes that shone lustrous and lambent as twin stars beneath their delicately arched brows, and regarded you with a steadfast interest as though they meant to look straight through you, and separate truth from falsehood. a mouth that was a whimsical combination of fun and resolution. a nose that could pucker disdainfully on provocation, and it never needed a greater than its owner's doubt of the sincerity of the person addressing her. this is the small person skipping along the pretty riveredge street toward the more sparsely settled northern end of the town, hopping _not from_ dry spot to dry spot _between_ the puddles, but _into_ and _into_ the deepest to be found. amy fletcher's home was one of the largest in the outskirts of riveredge and its grounds the most beautiful. between it and riveredge stood an old stone house owned and occupied by a family named raulsbury; a family noted for its parsimony and narrow outlook upon life in general. broad open fields lay between this house and the fletcher place which was some distance beyond. in many places the fences were broken; at one point the field was a good deal higher than the road it bordered and a deep gully lay between it and the sidewalk. when jean reached that point of her moist, breezy walk she stopped short. in the mud of the gully, drenched, cold and shivering lay an old, blind bay horse. he had stumbled into it, and was too feeble to get out. chapter ii "baltie" "when he's forsaken withered and shaken what can an old _horse_ do but die?" (with apologies to tom hood.) for one moment jean stood petrified, too overcome by the sight to stir or speak, then with a low, pitying cry of: "oh, baltie, baltie! how came you there?" the child tossed her umbrella aside and scrambled down into the ditch, the water which stood in it splashing and flying all over her, as she hastened toward the prone horse. at the sound of her voice the poor creature raised his head which had been drooping forward upon his bent-up knees, turned his sightless eyes toward her and tried to nicker, but succeeded only in making a quavering, shivering sound. "oh, baltie, dear, dear baltie, how did you get out of your stable and come way off here?" cried the girl taking the pathetic old head into her arms, and drawing it to her breast regardless of the mud with which it was thickly plastered. "you got out of the field through that broken place in the fence up there didn't you dear? and you must have tumbled right straight down the bank into this ditch, 'cause you're all splashed over with mud, poor, poor baltie. and your legs are all cut and bleeding too. oh, how long have you been here? you couldn't see where you were going, could you? you poor, dear thing. oh, what shall i do for you? what shall i? if i could only help you up," and the dauntless little body tugged with all her might and main to raise the fallen animal. she might as well have striven to raise gibraltar, for, even though the horse strove to get upon his feet, he was far too weak and exhausted to do so, and again dropped heavily to the ground, nearly over-setting his intrepid little friend as he sank down. jean was in despair. what _should_ she do? to go on to her friend amy's and leave the old horse to the chance of someone else's tender mercies never entered her head, and had any one been near at hand to suggest that solution of the problem he would have promptly found himself in the midst of a small tornado of righteous wrath. no, here lay misery incarnate right before her eyes and, of course, she must instantly set about relieving it. but how? "baltie," or old baltimore, as the horse was called, belonged to the raulsbury's. everybody within a radius of twenty miles knew him; knew also that the family had brought him to the place when they came there from the suburbs of baltimore more than twenty years ago. brought him a high-stepping, fiery, thoroughbred colt which was the admiration and envy of all riveredge. john raulsbury, the grandfather, was his owner then, and drove him until his death, when "baltimore" was seventeen years old; even that was an advanced age for a horse. from the moment of grandfather raulsbury's death baltimore began to fail and lose his high spirits. some people insisted that he was grieving for the friend of his colt-hood and the heyday of life, but jabe raulsbury, the son, said "the horse was gettin' played out. what could ye expect when he was more'n seventeen years old?" so baltimore became "old baltie," and his fate the plow, the dirt cart, the farm wagon. his box-stall, fine grooming, and fine harness were things of the past. "the barn shed's good 'nough fer such an old skate's he's gettin' ter be," said jabe, and jabe's son, a shiftless nonentity, agreed with him. so that was blue-blooded baltie's fate, but even such misfortune failed to break his spirit, and now and again, while plodding hopelessly along the road, dragging the heavy farm wagon, he would raise his head, prick up his ears, and plunge ahead, forgetful of his twenty years, when he heard a speedy step behind him. but, alas! his sudden sprint always came to a most humiliating end, for his strength had failed rapidly during the past few years, and the eyes, once so alert and full of fire, were sadly clouded, making steps very uncertain. an ugly stumble usually ended in a cruel jerk upon the still sensitive mouth and poor old baltie was reduced to the humiliating plod once more. yet, through it all he retained his sweet, high-bred disposition, accepting his altered circumstances like the gentleman he was, and never retaliating upon those who so misused him. during his twenty-third year he became totally blind, and when rheumatism, the outcome of the lack of proper stabling and care, added to his miseries, poor baltie was almost turned adrift; the shed was there, to be sure, and when he had time to think about it, jabe dumped some feed into the manger and threw a bundle of straw upon the floor. but for the greater part of the time baltie had to shift for himself as best he could. during the past summer he had been the talk of an indignant town, and more than one threatening word had been spoken regarding the man's treatment of the poor old horse. for a moment the little girl stood in deep, perplexing thought, then suddenly her face lighted up and her expressive eyes sparkled with the thoughts which lay behind them. "i know what i'll do, baltie: i'll go straight up to jabe raulsbury's and _make_ him come down and take care of you. good-bye, dear; i won't be any time at all 'cause i'll go right across the fields," and giving the horse a final encouraging stroke, she caught up her umbrella which had meantime been resting handle uppermost up in a mud-puddle, and scrambling up the bank which had been poor baltie's undoing, disappeared beneath the tumble-down fence and was off across the pasture heedless of all obstacles. jabe raulsbury's farm had once been part of riveredge, but one by one his broad acres had been sold so that now only a small section of the original farmstead remained to him, and this was a constant eyesore to his neighbors, owing to its neglected condition, for beautiful homes had been erected all about it upon the acres he had sold at such a large profit. several good offers had been made him for his property by those who would gladly have bought the land simply to have improved their own places and thus add to the attraction of that section of riveredge. but no; not another foot of his farm would jabe raulsbury sell, and if ever dog-in-the-manger was fully demonstrated it was by this parsimonious irascible man whom no one respected and many heartily despised. this wild, wet afternoon he was seated upon a stool just within the shelter of his barn sorting over a pile of turnips which lay upon the floor near him. he was not an attractive figure, to say the least, as he bent over the work. cadaverous, simply because he was too parsimonious to provide sufficient nourishing food to meet the demands of such a huge body. unkempt, grizzled auburn hair and grizzled auburn beard, the latter sparse enough to disclose the sinister mouth. eyes about the color of green gooseberries and with about as much expression. as he sat there tossing into the baskets before him the sorted-out turnips, he became aware of rapidly approaching footsteps, and raised his head just as a small figure came hurrying around the corner of the barn, for the scramble up the steep bank, and rapid walk across the wet pastures, had set jean's heart a-beating, and that, coupled with her indignation, caused her to pant. she had gone first to the house, but had there learned from mrs. raulsbury, a timid, nervous, woefully-dominated individual, who looked and acted as though she scarcely dared call her soul her own, that "jabe was down yonder in the far-barn sortin' turnips." so down to the "far-barn" went jean. "good afternoon, mr. raulsbury," she began, her heart, it must be confessed, adding, rather than lessening its number of beats, at confronting the forbidding expression of the individual with whom she was passing the time of day. "huh!" grunted jabe raulsbury, giving her one searching look from between his narrowing eyelids, and then resuming his work. most children would have been discouraged and dropped the conversation then and there. jean's lips took on a firmer curve. "i guess after all it _isn't_ a good afternoon, is it? it is a pretty wet, horrid one, and not a very nice one to be out in, is it?" "wul, why don't ye go home then?" was the gruff retort. "because i have an important matter to 'tend to. i was on my way to visit amy fletcher; her cat is sick! he was hurt dreadfully yesterday; she thinks somebody must have tried to shoot him and missed him, for his shoulder is all torn. if anybody _did_ do such a thing to bunny they'd ought to be ashamed of it, for he's a dear. if _i_ knew who had done it i'd--i'd--." "wal, what _would_ ye do to 'em, heh?" and a wicked, tantalizing grin overspread jabe raulsbury's face. "do? do? i believe i'd scratch his eyes out; i'd hate him so, for being so cruel!" was the fiery, unexpected reply. "do tell! would ye now, really? mebbe it's jist as well fer him that ye don't know the feller that did it then," remarked raulsbury, although he gave a slight hitch to the stool upon which he was sitting as he said it, thus widening the space between them. "well i believe i _would_, for i _despise_ a coward, and only a coward could do such a thing." "huh," was the response to this statement. then silence for a moment was broken by the man who asked: "wal, why don't ye go along an' see if the cat's kilt. it aint _here_." "no, i know _that_, but i have found something more important to 'tend to, and that's why i came up here, and it's something you ought to know about too: old baltie has tumbled down the bank at the place in the pasture where the fence is broken, and is in the ditch. i don't know how long he's been there, but he's all wet, and muddy and shivery and he can't get up. i came up to tell you, so's you could get a man to help you and go right down and get him out. i tried, but i wasn't strong enough, but he'll die if you don't go quick." jean's eyes shone and her cheeks were flushed from excitement as she described baltie's plight, and paused only because breath failed her. "wal, 'spose he does; what then? what good is he to anybody? he's most twenty-five year old an' clear played-out. he'd better die; it's the best thing could happen." the shifty eyes had not rested upon the child while the man was speaking, but some powerful magnetism drew and held them to her deep blazing ones as the last word fell from his lips. he tried to withdraw them, ejected a mouthful of tobacco juice at one particular spot which from appearances had been so favored many times before, drew his hand across his mouth and then gave a self-conscious, snickering laugh. "i don't believe you understood what i said, did you?" asked jean quietly. "i'm sure you didn't." "oh yis i did. ye said old baltie was down in the ditch yonder and like ter die if i didn't git him out. wal, that's jist 'zactly what i want him _to_ do, an' jest 'zactly what i turned him out inter that field fer him ter do, an' jist 'zactly what i hope he _will_ do 'fore morning. he's got the last ounce o' fodder i'm ever a'goin' ter give him, an' i aint never a'goin' ter let him inter my barns agin. now put _that_ in yer pipe an' smoke it, an' then git out durned quick." jabe raulsbury had partially risen from his stool as he concluded this creditable tirade, and one hand was raised threateningly toward the little figure standing with her dripping umbrella just within the threshold of the barn door. that the burly figure did not rise entirely, and that his hand remained suspended without the threatened blow falling can perhaps best be explained by the fact that the child before him never flinched, and that the scorn upon her face was so intense that it could be felt. chapter iii the spirit of mad anthony jean carruth stood thus for about one minute absolutely rigid, her face the color of chalk and her eyes blazing. then several things happened with extreme expedition. the position of the closed umbrella in her hands reversed with lightning-like rapidity; one quick step _forward_, _not_ backward, was made, thus giving the intrepid little body a firmer foothold, and then crash! down came the gun-metal handle across jabe raulsbury's ample-sized nasal appendage. the blow, with such small arms to launch it, was not of necessity a very powerful one, but it was the suddenness of the onslaught which rendered it effective, for not one sound had issued from the child's set lips as she delivered it, and jabe's position placed him at a decided disadvantage. he resumed his seat with considerable emphasis, and clapping his hand to his injured feature, bellowed in the voice of an injured bull: "you--you--you little devil! you--you, let me get hold of you!" but jean did not obey the command or pause to learn the result of her deed. with a storm of the wildest sobs she turned and fled from the barnyard, down the driveway leading to the road, and back to the spot where she had left baltie in his misery, her tears nearly blinding her, and her indignation almost strangling her; back to the poor old horse, so sorely in need of human pity and aid. this, all unknown to his little champion, had already reached him, for hardly had jean disappeared beneath the tumble-down fence, than a vehicle came bowling along the highway driven by no less a personage than hadyn stuyvesant, lately elected president of the local branch of the s. p. c. a. poor old baltie's days of misery had come to an end, for here was the authority either to compel his care or to mercifully release him from his sufferings. perhaps not more than twenty minutes had elapsed from the time jean started across the fields, to the moment of her return to the old horse, but in those twenty minutes mr. stuyvesant had secured aid from mr. fletcher's place, and when jean came hurrying upon the scene, her sobs still rendering breathing difficult, and her troubled little face bathed in tears, she found three men standing near baltie. "oh, baltie, baltie, baltie, i'm so glad! so glad! so glad!" sobbed the overwrought little girl, as she flew to the old horse's head. mr. stuyvesant and the men stared at her in astonishment. "why little girl," cried the former. "where in this world have _you_ sprung from? and what is the matter? is this your horse?" "oh, no--no; he isn't mine. it's old baltie; don't you know him? i went to tell jabe raulsbury about him and he--he--" and jean paused embarrassed. "yes? well? is this his horse? is he coming to get him? did you find him?" "yes, sir, i _found_ him," answered jean, trembling from excitement and her exertions. "and is he coming right down?" persisted mr. stuyvesant, looking keenly, although not unkindly, at the child. "he--he--, oh, _please_ don't make me tell tales on anybody--it's so mean--but he--" "you might as well tell it right out an' done with it, little gal," broke in one of the men. "it ain't no state secret; everybody knows that that old skinflint has been abusing this horse shameful, for months past, an' i'll bet my month's wages he said he wouldn't come down, an' he hoped the horse 'd die in the ditch. come now, out with it--_didn't_ he?" jean would not answer, but there was no need for words; her eyes told the truth. just then the other man came up to her; he was one of mr. fletcher's grooms. "aren't you mrs. carruth's little girl?" he asked. but before jean had time to answer jabe raulsbury came running along the road, one hand holding a handkerchief to his nose, the other waving wildly as he shouted: "just you wait 'till i lay my hands on you--you little wild cat!" he was too blinded by his rage to realize the situation into which he was hurrying. again anthony wayne's spirit leaped into jean's eyes, as the dauntless little creature whirled about to meet the enemy descending upon her. with head erect, and nostrils quivering she stood as though rooted to the ground. "great guns! how's _that_ for a little thoroughbred?" murmured the groom, laughing softly. reaching out a protecting hand, mr. stuyvesant gently pushed the little girl toward the man who stood behind him, and taking her place let jabe raulsbury come head-on to his fate. had the man been less enraged he would have taken in the situation at once, but his nose still pained severely from the well-aimed blow, and had also bled pretty freely, so it is not surprising that he lost his presence of mind. "go slow! go slow! you are exactly the man i want to see," said mr. stuyvesant, laying a detaining hand upon jabe's arm. "who 'n thunder air you?" demanded the half-blinded man. "someone you would probably rather not meet at this moment, but since you have appeared upon the scene so opportunely i think we might as well come to an understanding at once, and settle some scores." "i ain't got no scores to settle with you, but i have with _that_ little demon, an' by gosh she'll know it, when i've done with her! why that young 'un has just smashed me over the head with her umbril, i tell ye. _there_ it is, if ye don't believe what i'm a tellin' ye. i'm goin' ter have the _law_ on her and on her ma, i tell ye, an' i call you three men ter witness the state i'm in. i'll bring suit agin' her fer big damages--that's what i'll do. look at my _nose_!" as he ceased his tirade jabe removed his handkerchief from the injured member. at the sight of it one of the men broke into a loud guffaw. certainly, for a "weaker vessel" jean had compassed considerable. that nose was about the size of two ordinary noses. mr. stuyvesant regarded it for a moment, his face perfectly sober, then asked with apparent concern: "and this little girl hit you such a blow as that?" poor little jean began to tremble in her boots. were the tables about to turn upon her? even anthony wayne's spirit, when harbored in such a tiny body could hardly brave _that_. the fletcher's groom who stood just behind her watched her closely. now and again he gave a nod indicative of his approval. "yes she did. she drew off and struck me slam in the face with her umbril.," averred jabe. "had _you_ struck her? did she strike in self-defense?" mr. stuyvesant gave a significant look over jabe's head straight into the groom's eyes when he asked this question. the response was the slightest nod of comprehension. "strike her? _no_," roared jabe. "i hadn't teched her. i was a-sittin' there sortin' out my turnips 's peaceful 's any man in this town, when that little rip comes 'long and tells me i must go get an old horse out 'en a ditch: _that_ old skate there that's boun' ter die _any_ how, an' ought ter a-died long ago. i told her ter clear out an' mind her own business that i hoped the horse _would_ die, an' that's what i'd turned him out _to_ do. then she drew off an' whacked me." "just because you stated in just so many words that you meant to get rid of the old horse and had turned him out to die on the roadside. is _that_ why she struck you?" had jabe been a little calmer he might have been aware of a change in hadyn stuyvesant's expression and his tone of voice, but men wild with rage are rarely close observers. "yis! yis!" he snapped, sure now of his triumph. "well i'm only sorry the blow was such a light one. i wish it had been struck by a man's arm and sufficiently powerful to have half killed you! even _that_ would have been _too_ good for you, you merciless brute! i've had you under my eye for your treatment of that poor horse for some time, and now i have you under my _hand_, and convicted by your own words in the presence of two witnesses, of absolute cruelty. i arrest you in the name of the s. p. c. a." for one brief moment jabe stood petrified with astonishment. then the brute in him broke loose and he started to lay about him right and left. his aggressiveness was brought to a speedy termination, for at a slight motion from mr. stuyvesant the two men sprang upon him, his arms were held and the next second there was a slight click and jabe raulsbury's wrists were in handcuffs. that snap was the signal for his blustering to take flight for he was an arrant coward at heart. "now step into my wagon and sit there until i am ready to settle your case, my man, and that will be when i have looked to this little girl and the animal which, but for her pluck and courage, might have died in this ditch," ordered mr. stuyvesant. no whipped cur could have slunk toward the wagon more cowed. "now, little lassie, tell me your name and where you live," said mr. stuyvesant lifting jean bodily into his arms despite her mortification at being "handled just like a baby," as she afterwards expressed it. "i am jean carruth. i live on linden avenue. i'm--i'm terribly ashamed to be here, and to have struck him," and she nodded toward the humbled figure in the wagon. "you need not be. you did not give him one-half he deserves," was the somewhat comforting assurance. "o, but what _will_ mother say? she'll be _so_ mortified when i tell her about it all. it seems as if i just _couldn't_," was the distressed reply. "must you tell her?" asked mr. stuyvesant, an odd expression overspreading his kind, strong face as he looked into the little girl's eyes. jean regarded him with undisguised amazement as she answered simply: "why of _course_! that would be deceit if i _didn't_. i'll have to be punished, but i guess i _ought_ to be," was the naïve conclusion. the fine face before her was transfigured as hadyn stuyvesant answered: "good! _your_ principles are all right. stick to them and i'll want to know you when you are a woman. now i must get you home for i've a word to say to your mother, to whom i mean to introduce myself under the circumstances," and carrying her to his two-seated depot wagon, he placed her upon the front seat. jabe glowered at him from the rear one. his horse turned his head with an inquiring nicker. "yes, comet, i'll be ready pretty soon," he replied, pausing a second to give a stroke to the satiny neck. then turning to the men he said: "now, my men, let's on with this job which has been delayed too long already." he did not spare himself, and presently old baltie was out of the ditch and upon his feet--a sufficiently pathetic object to touch any heart. "shall i have the men lead him up to your barn?" asked hadyn stuyvesant, giving the surly object in his wagon a last chance to redeem himself. "no! i'm done with him; do your worst," was the gruff answer. "very well," the words were ominously quiet, "then _i_ shall take him in charge." "oh, _where_ are you going to take him, please?" asked jean, her concern for the horse overcoming her embarrassment at her novel situation. "i'm afraid he will have to be sent to the pound, little one, for no one will claim him." "is that the place where they _kill_ them? _must_ baltie be killed?" her voice was full of tears. "unless someone can be found who will care for him for the rest of his numbered days. i'm afraid it is the best and most merciful fate for him," was the gentle answer. "how long may he stay there without being killed? until maybe somebody can be found to take him." "he may stay there one week. but now we must move along. fasten the horse's halter to the back of my wagon, men, and i'll see to it that he is comfortable to-night anyway." the halter rope was tied, and the strange procession started slowly back toward riveredge. chapter iv baltie is rescued "how old are you, little lassie?" asked hadyn stuyvesant, looking down upon the little figure beside him, his fine eyes alive with interest and the smile which none could resist lighting his face, and displaying his white even teeth. "i'm just a little over ten," answered jean, looking up and answering his smile with one equally frank and trustful, for little jean carruth did not understand the meaning of embarrassment. "are you mrs. bernard carruth's little daughter? i knew her nephew well when at college, although i've been away from riveredge so long that i've lost track of her and her family." "yes, she is my mother. mr. bernard carruth was my father," and a little choke came into jean's voice, for, although not yet eight years of age when her father passed out of her life, jean's memory of him was a very tender one, and she sorely missed the kind, cheery, sympathetic companionship he had given his children. hadyn stuyvesant was quick to note the catch in the little girl's voice, and the tears which welled up to her eyes, and a strong arm was placed about her waist to draw her a little closer to his side, as, changing the subject, he said very tenderly: "you have had an exciting hour, little one. sit close beside me and don't try to talk; just rest, and let _me_ do the talking. we must go slowly on baltie's account; the poor old horse is badly knocked about and stiffened up. suppose we go right to mr. pringle's livery stable and ask him to take care of him a few days any way. don't you think that would be a good plan?" "but who will _pay_ for him? don't you have to pay board for horses just like people pay their board?" broke in jean anxiously. hadyn stuyvesant smiled at the practical little being his arm still so comfortingly encircled. "i guess the society can stand the expense," he answered. "has it got _lots_ of money to do such things with?" asked jean, bound to get at the full facts. "i'm afraid it hasn't got 'lots of money'--i wish it had,--but i think it can pay a week's board for old baltie in consideration of what you have done for him. it will make you happier to know he will be comfortable for a little while any way, won't it?" "oh, yes! yes! and, and--perhaps _i_ could pay the next week's if we didn't find somebody the first week. i've got 'most five dollars in my christmas bank. i've been saving ever since last january; i always begin to put in something on new year's day, if it's only five cents, and then i never, never take any out 'till it's time to buy our next christmas presents. and i really _have_ got 'most five dollars, and would _that_ be enough for another week?" and the bonny little face was raised eagerly to her companion's. hadyn stuyvesant then and there lost his heart to the little creature at his side. it is given to very few "grown-ups" to slip out of their own adult years and by some magical power pick up the years of their childhood once more, with all the experiences and view-points of that childhood, but hadyn stuyvesant was one of those few. he felt all the eagerness of jean's words and his answer held all the confidence and enthusiasm of _her_ ten years rather than his own twenty-three. "fully enough. but we will hope that a home may be found for baltie before the first week has come to an end. and here we are at mr. pringle's. raulsbury i shall have to ask you to get out here," added mr. stuyvesant, as he, himself, sprang from the depot wagon to the sidewalk. raulsbury made no reply but stepped to the sidewalk, where, at a slight signal from hadyn stuyvesant, an officer of the society who had his office in the livery stable came forward and motioned to raulsbury to follow him. as they disappeared within the stable, mr. stuyvesant said to the proprietor: "pringle, i've got a boarder for you. don't know just how long he will stay, but remember, nothing is too good for him while he does, for he is this little girl's protégé, and i hold myself responsible for him." "all right, mr. stuyvesant. all right, sir. he shall have the best the stable affords. come on, old stager; you look as if you wanted a curry-comb and a feed pretty bad," said pringle, as he untied baltie's halter. with all the gentleness of the blue-blooded old fellow he was, baltie raised his mud-splashed head, sniffed at mr. pringle's coat and nickered softly, as though acknowledging his proffered hospitality. the man stroked the muddy neck encouragingly, as he said: "he don't look much as he did eighteen years ago, does he, mr. stuyvesant?" "i'm afraid i don't remember how he looked eighteen years ago, pringle; there wasn't much of me to remember _with_ about that time. but i remember how he looked _eight_ years ago, before i went to europe, and the contrast is enough to stir me up considerable. it's about time such conditions were made impossible, and i'm going to see what i can do to start a move in that direction," concluded mr. stuyvesant, with an ominous nod toward the stable door, through which raulsbury had disappeared. "i'm glad to hear it, sir. we have had too much of this sort of thing in riveredge for the past few years. i've been saying the society needed a _live_ president and i'm glad it's got one at last." "well, look out for old baltie, and now i must take my little fellow-worker home," said mr. stuyvesant. "oh, may i give him just _one_ pat before we go?" begged jean, looking from baltie to mr. stuyvesant. "lead him up beside us, pringle," ordered mr. stuyvesant smiling his consent to jean. "good-bye baltie, dear. good-bye. i won't forget you for a single minute; no, not for one," said the little girl earnestly, hugging the muddy old head and implanting a kiss upon the ear nearest her. "baltie you are to be envied, old fellow," said hadyn stuyvesant, laughing softly, and nodding significantly to pringle. "she was his first friend in his misery. i'll tell you about it later, but i must be off now or her family will have me up for a kidnapper. i'll be back in about an hour." ten minutes' swift bowling along behind hadyn stuyvesant's beautiful "comet" brought them to the carruth home. dusk was already beginning to fall as the short autumn day drew to its end, and mrs. carruth,--mother above all other things--stood at the window watching for this youngest daughter, regarding whom she never felt quite at ease when that young lady was out of her sight. when she saw a carriage turning in at her driveway and that same daughter perched upon the front seat beside a total stranger she began to believe that there had been some foundation for the misgivings which had made her so restless for the past hour. opening the door she stepped out upon the piazza to meet the runaway, and was greeted with: "oh mother, mother, i've had such an exciting experience! i started to see amy fletcher, but before i got there i found him in the ditch and lame and muddy and dirty, and i went up to tell jabe he _must_ go get him out and then i got awful angry and banged him with my umbrella, and then i cried and _he_ found me," with a nod toward her companion, "and he got him out of the ditch and gave jabe _such_ a scolding and took him to mr. pringle's and he's going to curry-comb him and get the mud all off of him and take care of him a week any way, and two weeks if i've got enough money in my bank and--and--" "mercy! mercy! mercy!" cried mrs. carruth, breaking into a laugh and raising both hands as though to shield her head from the avalanche of words descending upon it. hadyn stuyvesant strove manfully to keep his countenance lest he wound the feelings of his little companion, but the situation was too much for him and his genial laugh echoed mrs. carruth's as he sprang from the depot wagon and raising his arms toward the surprised child said: "let me lift you out little maid, and then i think perhaps you can give your mother a clearer idea as to whether it is jabe raulsbury, or old baltie which is covered with mud and about to be curry-combed. mrs. carruth, let me introduce myself as hadyn stuyvesant. i knew your nephew when i was at college, and on the strength of my friendship for him, must beg you to pardon this intrusion. i came upon your little daughter not long since playing the part of the good samaritan to raulsbury's poor old horse. she had tackled a job just a little too big for her, so i volunteered to lend a hand, and together we made it go." as he spoke hadyn stuyvesant removed his hat and ascended the piazza steps with hand outstretched to the sweet-faced woman who stood at the top. she took the extended hand, her face lighting with the winning smile which carried sunshine to all who knew her, and in the present instance fell with wonderful warmth upon the man before her, for barely a year had passed since his mother had been laid away in a beautiful cemetery in switzerland, and the tie between that mother and son had been a singularly tender one. "i have often heard my nephew speak of you, mr. stuyvesant, and can not think of you as a stranger. i regret that we have not met before, but i understand you have lived abroad for several years. i am indebted to you for bringing jean safely home, but quite at a loss to understand what has happened. please come in and tell me. will your horse stand?" "he will stand as long as i wish him to. but i fear i shall intrude upon you?" and a questioning tone came into his voice. "how could it be an intrusion under the circumstances? come." "in a moment, then. i must throw the blanket over comet," and running down the steps he took the blanket from the seat and quickly buckled it upon the horse which meanwhile nosed him and nickered. "yes; it's all right, old man. just you _stand_ till i want you," said his master, giving the pretty head an affectionate pat which the horse acknowledged by shaking it up and down two or three times. hadyn stuyvesant then mounted the steps once more and followed mrs. carruth and jean into the house, across the broad hall into the cheerful living-room where logs blazed upon the andirons in the fire-place, and constance was just lighting a large reading lamp which stood upon a table in the center of the room. "constance, dear, this is mr. stuyvesant whom your cousin knew at princeton. my daughter, constance, mr. stuyvesant. and this is my eldest daughter, eleanor," she added as eleanor entered the room. constance set the lamp shade upon its rest and advanced toward their guest with hand extended and a smile which was the perfect reflection of her mother's. eleanor's greeting although graceful and dignified lacked her sister's cordiality. "now," added mrs. carruth, "let us be seated and learn more definitely of jean's escapade." "but it _wasn't_ an escapade _this_ time, mother. it was just an unhelpable experience, _wasn't_ it, mr. stuyvesant?" broke in jean, walking over to hadyn stuyvesant's side and placing her hand confidingly upon his shoulder, as she peered into his kind eyes for his corroboration of this assertion. "_entirely_ 'unhelpable,'" was the positive assurance as he put his arm about her and drew her upon his knee. "suppose you let me explain it, and then your mother and sisters will understand the situation fully," and in as few words as possible he gave an account of the happenings of the past two hours, jean now and again prompting him when he went a trifle astray regarding the incidents which occurred prior to his appearance upon the scene, and making a clean breast of her attack upon jabe raulsbury. when _that_ point in the narration was reached mrs. carruth let her hands drop resignedly into her lap; constance laughed outright, and eleanor cried: "oh, mr. stuyvesant, what _must_ you think of jean's training?" jean's eyes were fixed upon his as though in his reply rested the verdict, and her fingers were clasped and unclasped nervously. it had been more than two years since a man had set judgment upon her. hadyn stuyvesant looked keenly into the big eyes looking so bravely and frankly into his own, drew the little girl close to him, rested his lips for a moment upon the silky curls and said: "sometimes we can hardly be held accountable for what we do; especially when our sense of justice is sorely taxed. i believe i should have done the same. but since you love horses so dearly, won't you run and give comet a lump of sugar? he has not had one to-day and will feel slighted unless he gets it. hold it upon the palm of your hand and he will take it as gently as a kitten. tell him i am coming right away," and placing jean upon the floor, he gave an encouraging pat upon the brown curls. "i'll give it to him right away, quick," she cried delightedly as she ran from the room. "good!" then rising he extended his hand, saying, as he clasped mrs. carruth's: "she is a little trump, mrs. carruth. jove! if you could have been there and seen her championship of that old horse, and her dauntless courage when that old rascal, jabe, bore down upon her, you would be so set up that this house would have to expand to hold you. please don't reprove her. i ask it as favor, although i have no right to do so. she has a fine spirit and a finer sense of duty, mrs. carruth, for she gave me a rare call-down when i tested it by hinting that she'd best keep mum on the subject if she was likely to come in for a wigging. she is a great little lassie and i am going to ask you to let me know her better." "jean is about right, _i_ think, mr. stuyvesant," said constance, as she shook hands good-bye. "she is peppery and impulsive, i know, but it would be a hard matter to make her tell an untruth, or go against what she considered her duty." "i'm _sure_ of it, miss constance," was the hearty answer. "and now good-bye. you will let me come again, mrs. carruth?" "we will be very pleased to welcome you," was the cordial reply. "good! i'll come." chapter v a new member of the family "has you-all done 'cided to do wid out yo' suppers dis yer night? 'cause if you _is_ i 'spec's i kin clar away," was the autocratic inquiry of mammy melviny as she stood in the doorway of the living-room, her ample proportions very nearly filling it. hadyn stuyvesant's call had been of longer duration than mammy approved, for her hot corn cakes were being rapidly ruined by the delayed meal, and this was an outrage upon her skill in cooking. mammy had been mrs. carruth's nurse "down souf" and still regarded that dignified lady as her "chile," and subject to her dictation. she was the only servant which mrs. carruth now kept, the others having been what mammy stigmatized as "po' northern no 'count niggers" who gave the minimum of work for the maximum of pay, and were prompt to take their departure when adversity overtook their employer. not so mammy. when the crisis came mrs. carruth stated the case to her and advised her to seek another situation where she would receive the wages her ability commanded, and which mrs. carruth, in her reduced circumstances, could no longer afford to pay her. the storm which the suggestion produced was both alarming and amusing. placing her arms upon her hips, and raising her head like a war-horse scenting battle, mammy stamped her foot and cried: "step down an' out? get out 'en de fambly? go wo'k fer some o' dese hyer strange folks what aint keer a cent fo' me, an' aint know who i _is_? _me?_ a blairsdale! huh! what sort o' fool talk is _dat_, baby? yo' cyant _git_ me out. yo' need 'n ter try, kase 'taint gwine be no good ter. i's hyer and hyer i's gwine _stay_, no matter _what_ come. 'taint no use fer ter talk ter _me_ 'bout money and wages an' sich truck. what i kerrin' fer dem? i'se got 'nough, an' ter spare. what yo' t'ink i'se been doin' all dese years o' freedom? flingin' my earnin's 'way? huh! you _know_ i aint done no sich foolishness. i'se got a pile--yis, an' a _good_ pile too,--put 'way. i need n't ter ever do a stroke mo' work long 's i live if i don't wantter. i'se _rich_, i is. but i _gwine_ ter work jist 's long's i'se mind ter. ain't i free? who gwine ter say i cyant wo'k? now go long an' tend ter yo' business and lemme lone ter tend ter mine, and dat's right down wid de pots and de kettles, and de stew pans, an' de wash biler and de wash tubs, an' i reckon i kin do more 'n six o' dese yer norf niggers put togedder when i set out ter good an' hard if i _is_ most sixty years old. hush yo' talk chile, an' don't let me ketch you a interferin' wid _my_ doin's agin. you heah _me_?" and at the end of this tirade, mammy turned sharply about and marched off like a grenadier. mrs. carruth was deeply touched by the old woman's loyalty, but knowing the antebellum negro as she did, she realized how wounded mammy had been by the suggestion that she seek a more lucrative situation among strangers. mammy had been born and raised a slave on mrs. carruth's father's plantation in north carolina, and would always consider herself a member of mrs. carruth's family. alas for the days of such ties and such devotion! so mammy was now the autocrat of the household and ruled with an iron hand, although woe to anyone who dared to overstep the bounds _she_ had established as her "miss jinny's" rights, or the "chillen's" privileges as "old marster's gran'-chillern." "old marster" was mammy's ideal of what a gentleman should be, and "de days befo' de gre't turmoil" were the only days "fitten for _folks_ (always to be written in italics) to live in." she was an interesting figure as she stood in the doorway, and snapped out her question, although her old face, surmounted by its gay bandanna turban was the personification of kindliness, and her keen eyes held only love for her "white folks." she was decidedly corpulent and her light print gown and beautifully ironed white apron stood out from her figure until they completely filled the doorway. mrs. carruth turned toward her and asked with a quizzical smile; "what is spoiling, mammy?" "huh! ain't nuffin spilin's i knows on, but dat miss nornie done say she ain't had no co'n cakes 'n 'bout 'n age an' if she _want_ 'em so turrible she'd better come and _eat_ 'em,"--and with a decisive nod mammy stalked off toward the dining-room. "come, girls, unless you want to evoke the displeasure of the presiding genius of the household," said mrs. carruth smiling, as she led the way in mammy's wake. it was a pleasant meal, for mammy would not countenance the least lapse from the customs of earlier days, and the same pains were taken for the simple meals now served as had been taken with the more elaborate ones during mr. carruth's lifetime. the linen must be ironed with the same care; the silver must shine as brightly, and the glass sparkle as it had always done. miss jinny must not miss any of the luxuries to which she had been born if mammy could help it. "isn't he splendid, mother?" asked jean, as she buttered her third corn cake. "he was _so_ good to baltie and to me." "i am very glad to know him, dear, for lyman was much attached to him." "where has he been all these years, mother, that we have never met him in riveredge?" asked eleanor. "he has lived abroad when not at college. he took his degree last spring. his mother died there a little more than a year ago, i understand. she never recovered from the blow of his father's death when hadyn was about fifteen years of age. she went abroad soon after for her health and never came back. he came over for his college course at princeton, but always rejoined her during his holidays." "how old a man is he, mother? he seems both young and old," said constance. "i am not sure, but think he must be about lyman's age--nearly twenty-four. but the society seems to have made a wise choice in electing him its president; he has certainly taken energetic measures in this case and i am glad that he has, for it is disgraceful to have such a thing occur in riveredge. poor old horse! it would have been more merciful to shoot him. how could jabe raulsbury have been so utterly heartless?" "but, mother, suppose no one will take old baltie and give him a home?" persisted jean, "will he _have_ to be shot then?" "would it not be kinder to end such a hapless existence than to leave it to an uncertain fate, dear?" asked mrs. carruth gently. "well, maybe, but _i_ don't want him killed. he _loves_ me," was jean's answer and the little upraising of the head at the conclusion of the remark conveyed more to constance than to the others. constance understood jean better than any other member of the family, and during the summer just passed jean had many times gone to the field in which baltie was pastured to carry some dainty to the poor old horse and her love for him and compassion for his wretchedness were deep. no more was said just then, but constance knew that the subject had not passed from jean's thoughts and one afternoon, exactly two weeks from that evening, this was verified. mrs. carruth had gone to sit with a sick friend. eleanor was in her room lost to everything but a knotty problem for monday's recitation, and mammy was busily occupied with some dainty dish against her miss jinny's home-coming. constance was laying the tea-table when the crunch-crunch, crunch-crunch, upon the gravel of the driveway caused her to look up, there to behold jean with old baltie in tow. "merciful powers, what _has_ the child done now?" she exclaimed as she let fall with a clatter the knife and fork she was about to place upon the table and flew to the front door, crying as she hastily opened it: "jean carruth what in this world _have_ you been doing?" "i've brought him home. i _had_ to. i went down to ask mr. pringle if anybody had come to take him, but he wasn't there. there wasn't _any_body there but old deaf mike who cleans the stable and i couldn't make _him_ understand a single thing i said. he just mumbled and wagged his head for all the world like that china mandarin in the library, and didn't do a thing though i yelled at him as hard as i could." "but _how_ did you get baltie and, greater marvel, _how_ did you bring him all this way home?" persisted constance, bound to get to the bottom of facts. "i went into the box-stall--it's close to the door you know--and got him and led him here." "but where was mike, and what was he doing all that time to _let_ you do such a thing?" "o, he went poking off down the stable and didn't pay any attention to me. it wouldn't have made any difference if he _had_; i had gone there to rescue baltie and save him from being shot, and i didn't mean to come away without doing it. the two weeks were up to-day and he was _there_. if any one had been found to take him he _wouldn't_ have been there yet, would he? so _that_ settled it, and i wasn't going to take any chances. if i'd let him stay one day longer they might have shot him. if i could have found mr. pringle i'd have told him, but i couldn't, and i didn't dare to wait. i left my bank money, almost five dollars, to pay for this week's board--mr. stuyvesant said it would be enough--and a little note to tell him it was for baltie; i wrote it on a piece of paper in his office, and then i came home as fast as baltie could walk, and here we are." jean had talked very rapidly and constance was too dumfounded for the time being, to interrupt the flow of words. presently however, she recovered her speech and, resting one hand on baltie's withers and the other on jean's shoulder, asked resignedly: "and now that you've got him, may i ask what in this world you propose to _do_ with him?" "take him out to the stable of course and take care of him as long as he lives," was the uncontrovertible reply. "mother will _never_ let you do such a thing, jean, and he must be taken back to pringle's at once," said constance, with more emphasis than usually entered her speech toward this mad-cap little sister. "i won't! i won't! i _won't_ let him go back!" broke out jean, a storm of sobs ending the protest and bringing mammy upon the scene hot-foot, for mammy's ears were keen for notes of woe from her baby. "what's de matter, honey? what done happen ter yo'?" she cried as she came hurrying across the little porch upon which the dining-room opened. "bress gawd what yo' got dere, chile? huccum dat old horse here?" "oh mammy, mammy, its baltie, and she says i can't keep him, and they are going to _kill_ him, 'cause he's old and blind and hasn't anyone to take care of him. and mammy, mammy, _please_ don't let 'em 'cause i _love_ him. i do, i do, mammy," cried jean as she cast baltie's leader from her and rushed to mammy, to fling herself into those protecting arms and sob out her woes. "wha', wha', wha', yo' say, baby?" stammered mammy, whose tongue sometimes became unruly under great excitement. "somebody gwine tek away dat old horse dat yo' love, an' breck yo' heart? huh! who gwine do dat when mammy stan' by? i like 'er _see_ 'em do it! _co'se_ i knows baltie. ain' i seen him dese many years? an' yo' gwine pertec' him an' keer fer him in his discrepancy? well, ef yo' wantter yo' _shall_, an' dat's all 'bout it." "but mammy, mammy, she can't; she mustn't; what will mother say?" remonstrated constance smiling in spite of herself at the ridiculous situation for mammy had promptly put on her war-paint, and was a formidable champion to overcome. "an' what yo' _ma_ gotter say 'bout it if _i_ sets out ter tak' care of an' old horse? 'taint _her_ horse. _she_ aint got nothin' 'tall ter _do wid_ him. he's been a lookin', an' a waitin'; and de lawd knows but he's been _a-prayin'_ fer a pertecter----how _we-all_ gwine know he aint _prayed_ ter de lawd fer ter raise one up fer him in his mis'ry? an' now he's _got_ one an' it's _me_ an' dis chile. go 'long an' set yo' table an' let us 'lone. come on honey; we'll take old baltie out yonder ter de stable an' bed him _down_ an' feed him _up_ twell he so sot up he like 'nough bus' wid pride, an' i just like ter see who gwine _stop_ us. hi yah-yah, yah," and mammy's wrath ended in a melodious laugh as she caught hold of the leader and stalked off with this extraordinary addition to her already manifold duties, jean holding her free hand and nodding exultingly over her shoulder at constance who had collapsed upon the lower step. chapter vi blue monday october, with its wealth of color, its mellow days, and soft haze was passing quickly and november was not far off: november with its "melancholy days" of "wailing winds and wintry woods." baltie had now been a member of the carruth family for nearly a month and had improved wonderfully under mammy melviny's care. how the old woman found time to care for him and the means to provide for him was a source of wonder not only to mrs. carruth, but to the entire neighborhood who regarded the whole thing as a huge joke, and enjoyed many a hearty laugh over it, for mammy was considered a character by the neighbors, and nobody felt much surprised at any new departure in which she might elect to indulge. two or three friends had begged mrs. carruth to let them relieve her of the care of the old horse, assuring her that they would gladly keep him in their stables as long as he needed a home, and ended in a hearty laugh at the thought of mammy turning groom. but when mrs. carruth broached the subject to mammy she was met with flat opposition: "send dat ole horse off ter folks what was jist gwine tek keer of him fer cha'ity? _no_ i aint gwine do no sich t'ing. de lawd sartin sent him ter me ter tek keer of an' i'se gwin ter _do_ it. aint he mine? didn't jabe raulsbury say dat anybody what would tek keer of him could _have_ him? well i'se tekin' keer of him so _co'se_ he's _mine_. i aint never is own no live stock befo' an now i _got_ some. go 'long, miss jinny; you'se got plenty ter tend ter 'thout studyin' 'bout my _horse_. bimeby like 'nough i have him so fed up and spry i can sell him fer heap er cash--dough i don' believe anybody's got nigh 'nough fer ter buy him whilst baby loves him." and so the discussion ended and baltie lived upon the fat of the land and was sheltered in mrs. carruth's unused stable. dry leaves which fell in red and yellow clouds from the maple, birch and oak trees made a far softer bed than the old horse had known in many a day. a bag of bran was delivered at mrs. carruth's house for "mammy melviny," with hadyn stuyvesant's compliments. mammy herself, invested in a sack of oats and a bale of cut hay, to say nothing of saving all bits of bread and parings from her kitchen, and baltic waxed sleek and fat thereon. jean was his devoted slave and daily led him about the grounds for a constitutional. up and down the driveway paced the little girl, the old horse plodding gently beside her, his ears pricked toward her for her faintest word, his head held in the pathetic, listening attitude of a blind horse. he knew her step afar off, and his soft nicker never failed to welcome her as she drew near. to no one else did he show such little affectionate ways, or manifest such gentleness. he seemed to understand that to this little child, which one stroke of his great hoofs could have crushed, he owed his rescue and present comforts. and so the weeks had slipped away. the money which jean had left for mr. pringle had been promptly refunded with a note to explain that the society had borne all the expenses for baltie's board. mrs. carruth sat in her library wrinkling her usually serene brow over a business letter this chilly monday morning, and hurrying to get it completed before the arrival of the letter carrier who always took any letters to be mailed. her face wore a perplexed expression, and her eyes had tired lines about them, for the past year had been harder for her than anyone suspected. her income, at best, was much too limited to conduct her home as it had always been conducted, and the general expenses of living in riveredge were steadily increasing. true, mammy was frugality itself in the matter of providing, and mrs. carruth often marveled at the small amounts of her weekly bills. but the demands in other directions were heavy, and the expenses of the place itself were large. more than once had she questioned the wisdom of striving to keep the home, believing that the tax upon her resources, and her anxiety, would be less if she gave it up and removed to town where she could live for far less than in riveredge. then arose the memory of the building of the home, the hopes, the plans, and the joys so inseparable from it, the children's well-being and their love for the house their father had built; their education, and the environment of a home in such a town as riveredge. now, however, new difficulties were confronting her, for some of her investments were not making the returns she had expected and her income was seriously affected. in spite of the utmost frugality and care the outlook was not encouraging, and just now she had to meet the demand of the fire insurance upon the home and its contents, and just how to do so was the question which was causing her brows to wrinkle. she had let the matter stand until the last moment, but dared to do so no longer for upon that point mr. carruth had always been most emphatic; the insurance upon his property must never lapse. he had always carried one, and since his death his wife had been careful to continue it. but _now_ how to meet the sum, and meet it at once, was the problem. she had completed her letter when mammy came to the door. "is yo' here, miss jinny? is yo' busy? i wants to ax you sumpin'," she said as she gave a quick glance at mrs. carruth from her keen eyes. "come in, mammy. what is it?" the voice had a tired, anxious note in it which mammy was quick to catch. "wha' de matter, honey? wha's plaguin' you dis mawnin'?" she asked as she hurried across the room to rest her hand on her mistress' shoulder. like a weary child mrs. carruth let her head fall upon mammy's bosom--a resting place that as long as she could remember had never failed her--as she said: "mammy, your baby is very weary, and sorely disheartened this morning, and very, very lonely." the words ended in a sob. instantly all mammy's sympathies were aroused. gathering the weary head in her arms she stroked back the hair with her work-hardened hand, as she said in the same tender tones she had used to soothe her baby more than forty years ago: "dere, dere, honey, don' yo' fret; don' yo' fret. tell mammy jist what's pesterin' yo' an' she'll mak' it all right fer her baby. hush! hush. mammy can tek keer of anythin'." "oh, mammy dear, dear old mammy, you take care of so much as it is. what _would_ we do without you?" "hush yo' talk chile! what i gwine do widout yo' all? dat talk all foolishness. don't i b'long ter de fambly? now yo' mind yo' mammy an' tell her right off what's a frettin' yo' dis day. yo' heah _me_?" mammy's voice was full of forty-five years of authority, but her eyes were full of sympathetic tears, for her love for her "miss jinny" was beyond the expression of words. "o mammy, i am so foolish, and i fear so pitifully weak when it comes to conducting my business affairs wisely. you can't understand these vexatious business matters which i must attend to, but i sorely miss mr. carruth when they arise and _must_ be met." "huccum i cyan't understand 'em? what massa bernard done tackle in his business dat i cyan't ef _yo'_ kin? tell me dis minute just what you' gotter do, an' i bate yo' ten dollars i c'n _do_ it." "i know there isn't anything you would not try to do, mammy, from taking care of an old horse, to moving the contents of the entire house if it became necessary," replied mrs. carruth, smiling in spite of herself, as she wiped her eyes, little realizing how near the truth was her concluding remark regarding mammy's prowess. "i reckon i c'd move de hull house if i had _time_ enough, an' as fer de horse--huh! ain't he stanin' dere a livin' tes'imony of what a bran-smash an' elbow-grease kin do? 'pears lak his hairs rise right up an' call me bres-sed, dey's tekin' ter shinin' so sense i done rub my hans ober 'em," and mammy, true to her racial characteristics, broke into a hearty laugh; so close together lies the capacity for joy or sorrow in this child race. the next instant, however, mammy was all seriousness as she demanded: "now i want yo' ter tell me all 'bout dis bisness flummy-diddle what's frettin' yo'. come now; out wid it, quick." was it the old habit of obedience to mammy's dictates, or the woman's longing for someone to confide in during these trying days of loneliness, that impelled mrs. carruth to explain in as simple language as possible the difficulties encompassing her? the burden of meeting even the ordinary every-day expenses upon the very limited income derived from mr. carruth's life insurance, which left no margin whatsoever for emergencies. of the imperative necessity of continuing the fire insurance he had always carried upon the home and its contents, lest a few hours wipe out what it had required years to gather together, and his wife and children be left homeless. how, under their altered circumstances this seemed more than ever imperative, since in the event of losing the house and its contents there would be no possible way of replacing either unless they kept the insurance upon them paid up. mammy listened intently, now and again nodding her old head and uttering a um-uh! um-uh! of comprehension. when mrs. carruth ceased speaking she asked: "an' how much has yo' gotter plank right out dis minit fer ter keep dis hyer as'sur'nce f'om collaps'in', honey?" "nearly thirty dollars, mammy, and that seems a very large sum to me now-a-days." "hum-uh! yas'm. so it do. um. an' yo' aint got it?" "i have not got it to-day, mammy. i shall have it next week, but the time expires day after to-morrow and i do not know whether the company will be willing to wait, or whether i should forfeit my claim by the delay. i have written to ask." "huh! wha' sort o' compiny is it dat wouldn't trus' a _blairsdale_, i like ter know?" demanded mammy indignantly. mrs. carruth smiled sadly as she answered: "these are not the old days, mammy, and you know 'corporations have no souls.'" "no so'les? huh, _i'se_ seen many a corpo'ration dat hatter have good thick _leather_ soles fer ter tote 'em round. well, well, times is sho' 'nough changed an' dese hyer norf ways don't set well on my bile; dey rises it, fer sure. so dey ain't gwine _trus'_ you, baby? where dey live at who has de sesso 'bout it all?" "the main office is in the city, mammy, but they have, of course, a local agent here." "wha' yo' mean by a locum agen', honey?" "a clerk who has an office at 60 state street, and who attends to any business the firm may have in riveredge." "is yo' writ yo' letter ter him? who _is_ he?" "no, i have written to the new york office, because mr. carruth always transacted his business there. i thought it wiser to, for this mr. sniffins is a very young man, and would probably not be prepared to answer my question." "wha' yo' call him? yo' don' mean dat little swimbly, red-headed, white-eyed sumpin' nu'er what sets down in dat basemen' office wid his foots cocked up on de rail-fence in front ob him, an' a segyar mos' as big as his laig stuck in he's mouf all de time? i sees _him_ eve'y time i goes ter market, an' he lak' ter mek me sick. is _he_ de agen'?" "yes, mammy, and i dare say he is capable enough, although i do not care to come in contact with him if i can avoid it." "if i ketches yo' in dat 'tater sprout's office i gwine smack yo' sure's yo' bo'n. yo' heah _me_? why _his_ ma keeps the _sody_-fountain on main street. wha-fo you gotter do wid such folks, baby?" "but, mammy, they are worthy, respectable people,"--protested mrs. carruth. "hush yo' talk, chile. _i_ reckon i knows de diff'rence twixt quality an' de _yether_ kind. dat's no place fer yo' to go at," cried mammy, all her instincts rebelling against the experiences her baby was forced to meet in her altered circumstances. "gimme dat letter. i'se gwine straight off ter markit dis minit and i'll see dat it get sont off ter de right pusson 'for i'se done anudder ting." "but what did you wish to ask me, mammy?" "nuffin'. 'taint no 'count 'tall. i'll ax it when i comes back. go 'long up-stairs and mek yo' bed if yo pinin' for occerpation," and away mammy flounced from the room, leaving mrs. carruth more or less bewildered. she would have been completely so could she have followed the old woman. chapter vii mammy generalissimo half an hour later a short, stout colored woman in neat, print gown, immaculate white apron, gorgeous headkerchief and gray plaid shawl, entered the office of the red star fire insurance company, at no. 60 state street, and walking up to the little railing which divided from the vulgar herd the sacred precincts of mr. elijah sniffins, representative, rested her hand upon the small swinging gate as she nodded her head slightly and asked: "is yo' mister sniffins, de locum agen' fer de fire insur'nce comp'ny?" "i am," replied that gentleman,--without removing from between his teeth the huge cigar upon which he was puffing until he resembled a small-sized locomotive, or changing his position--"mr. elijah sniffins, representative of the red star insurance company. are you thinkin' of taking out a policy?" concluded that gentleman with a supercilious smirk. mammy's eyes narrowed slightly and her lips were compressed for a moment. "no, sir, i don' reckon i is studyin' 'bout takin' out no pol'cy. i jist done come hyer on a little private bisness wid yo'." mammy paused, somewhat at a loss how to proceed, for business affairs seemed very complicated to her. mr. elijah sniffins was greatly amused and continued to eye her and smile. he was a dapper youth of probably twenty summers, with scant blond hair, pale blue, shifty eyes, a weak mouth surmounted by a cherished mustache of numerable hairs and a chin which stamped him the toy of stronger wills. mammy knew the type and loathed it. his smirk enraged her, and rage restored her self-possession. raising her head with a little sidewise jerk as befitted the assurance of a blairsdale, she cried: "yas--sir, i done come to ax yo' a question 'bout de 'surance on a place in riveredge. i hears de time fer settlin' up gwine come day atter to-morrer an' if 'taint settled up de 'surance boun' ter collapse. is dat so?" "unless the policy is renewed it certainly _will_ 'collapse,'" replied mr. sniffins breaking into an amused laugh. "huh! 'pears like yo' find it mighty 'musin'," was mammy's next remark and had mr. elijah sniffins been a little better acquainted with his patron he would have been wise enough to take warning from her tone. "well, you see i am not often favored with visits from ladies of your color who carry fire insurance policies. a good many carry _life_ insurance, but as a rule they don't insure their estates against _fire_, an' the situation was so novel that it amused me a little. no offense meant." "an' none teken--from _your_ sort," retorted mammy. "but how 'bout dis hyer pol'cy? what i gotter do fer ter keep it f'om collapsin' ef it aint paid by day atter to-morrer?" "pay it _to-day, or_ to-morrow," was the suave reply accompanied by a wave of the hand to indicate the ultimatum. "'spose dey ain't got de money fer ter pay right plank down, but kin pay de week atter? could'n' de collapse be hild up twell den?" "ha! ha!" laughed mr. elijah. "i'm 'fraid not; i've heard of those 'next week' settlements before, and experience tells me that 'next week' aint never arrived yet. ha! ha!" "den yo' won't trus' de ca-de fambly?" mammy had very nearly betrayed herself. "well, if it was the rogers, or the wellmans, or the stuyvesants, or some of them big bugs up yonder on the hill, that everybody knows has got piles of money, and that everybody knows might let the policy lapse just because it had slipped their memory--why, that 'd be a different matter. we'd know down in this here office that it was just an oversight, yer see; not a busted bank account. so, of course, we'd make concessions; just jog 'em up a little and a check 'd come 'long all o.k. and no fuss. but these small policies--why--well, i've got ter be more careful of the company's interests; i hold a responsible position here." "de good lawd, yo' don' sesso!" exclaimed mammy, turning around and around to scrutinize every corner of the tiny office, and then letting her eyes rest upon the being whose sense of responsibility was apparently crushing him down upon his chair, if one could judge from his semi-recumbent position. "dat's shore 'nough a pity. look lak it mought be mos' too much fer yo'. don' seem right fer a comp'ny ter put sich a boy as yo' is in sich a 'sponsible 'sition, do it now?" mammy's expression was solicitude personified. mr. elijah sniffins' face became a delicate rose color, and his feet landed upon the floor with emphasis as he straightened in his chair, and dragged nervously at the infinitesimal mustache, meanwhile eying mammy with some misgivings. mammy continued to smile upon him benignly, and her smile proved as disconcerting as she meant it should. she resolved to have her innings with the smug youth who had begun by slighting her race and ended by doing far worse; failing to class the carruths among those whom everyone trusted as a matter of course. the former slight might have been disregarded; the latter? _never._ consequently mammy had instantly decided "ter mak' dat little no'count sumpin 'er ner'er squirm jist fer ter te'ch him what's due de quality," and the process had begun. poor mammy! she would never learn that in the northern world where her lot was now cast the almighty dollar was king, queen and court combined. that its possession could carry into high places bad manners, low birth, aye actual rascality and hold them up to the shallow as enviable things when veneered with golden luster. that "de quality" without that dazzling reflector were very liable to be cast aside as of no value, as the nugget of virgin gold might be tramped upon and its worth never suspected by the unenlightened in their eagerness to reach a shining bit of polished brass farther along the path. but mammy's traditions were deeply rooted. "i think i can take care of the position. what can i do for you? my time is valuable," snapped mr. elijah sniffins, rising from his chair and coming close to the dividing railing, as a hint to mammy to conclude her business. "de lawd er massy! is dat so? now i ain't never is 'spitioned dat f'om de looks ob t'ings. 'pears lak yo' got a sight o' time on han'. wal i 'clar fo' it i do'n un'nerstan' dese hyer bisness places no how. well! well! so yo' want me fer ter state mine an' cl'ar long out, does yo' mr. 'lijah? 'lijah; _'lijah_. was yo' ma a studyin' 'bout yo' doin's when she done giv' yo' dat name? sort o' fits yo' pine blank, don' it now? like 'nuf de cha'iot 'll come kitin' 'long one o' dese hyer days an' hike yo' inter de high places. yah! yah!" and mammy's mellow laugh filled the office. "see here, old woman, if you've got some little picayune payment to make, _make_ it and clear out. i ain't got time ter stand here talkin' ter niggers," cried the agent, his temper taking final flight. mammy eyed him steadily as she said: "wall _dis yere_ time yo's gwine deal wid a nigger, an' yo's gwine do lak _she say_. dis yere comp'ny 'sures de carruth house an' eve'y last t'ing what's inside it, an' de policy yo' say 's gotter be settled up when it's gotter be, or de hul t'ing 'll collapse? now miss jinny ain't never _is_ had no dealin's wid _yo'_, case i don' _let_ her have dealin's wid no white trash--_i_ handles _dat_ sort when it has ter be handled--an' i keeps jist as far f'om it as ever i kin _while_ i handles it. but i'se gotter settle up dis policy fer de fambly so what is it? how much is i gotter pay yo'?" the varying expressions passing over mr. sniffins' countenance during mammy's speech would have delighted an artist. "what er? what er? what er you telling me?" he stammered. "de ain't no 'watter' 'bout it; it's _fire_, an' i done come ter settle up," asserted mammy. "have you brought the necessary papers with you? have we a record in this office?" "don' know nuffin' 'tall 'bout no papers nor no records. jist knows dat miss jinny's insured fer $15,000," said mammy, causing the youth confronting her to open his eyes. "dis hyer letter what she done wrote dis mawn'in tells all 'bout it i 'spec'. she tol' me pos' it ter de comp'ny an' i reckons _yo'll_ do fer de comp'ny _dis_ time when de time's pressin' an' der ain't nuffin' _better_ ter han'." the contempt in mammy's tone was tangible, as she held the letter as far from her as possible. mr. sniffins took it, noted the address and broke the seal. when he had read the letter he said with no little triumph in his voice: "but in this letter mrs. carruth says distinctly that she is not prepared to pay the sum which falls due day after to-morrow, and asks for an extension of time. i am not prepared to make this extension. _that's_ up to the company," and he held the letter toward mammy as though he washed his hands of the whole affair. mammy did not take it. instead she said very much as she would have spoken to a refractory child who was not quite sure of what he could or could _not_ do: "la honey, don' yo' 'spose i sensed _dat_ long go? co'se i knows _yo'_ cyant do nuffin' much; yo's only a lil' boy, an' der cyant no boy do a man's wo'k. yo's hyer fer ter tek in de _cash_, an' so _dat's_ what i done come ter pay. miss jinny she done mek up her mine dat she better pay dat policy dan use de money fer frolic'in'. i reckons yo' can tek cyer of it an' sen' it long down yonder whar de big comp'ny 's at. dat's all i want _yo'_ ter do, so now go 'long an' git busy an' _do_ it. _dere's_ thirty dollars; count it so's yo's suah. den write it all out crost de back ob miss jinny's letter so's i have sumpin fer ter show dat it's done paid." "but i'll give you a regular receipt for the amount," said the clerk, now eager to serve a customer whose premium represented so large a policy. "yo' kin give me dat too if yo' wantter, but i wants de sign on de letter too, an' yo' full name, mr. elijah sniffins, ter boot, you knows what yo' jist done said 'bout trus'in' folks, an' _yo'_ don' berlong ter de rogersers, ner de wellmans, ner de stuyvesants, but _i_ berlongs ter de _blairsdales_!" mammy grew nearly three inches taller as she made this statement, while her hearer seemed to grow visibly shorter. the receipt was duly filled out, likewise an acknowledgment written upon the blank side of mrs. carruth's letter and elijah sniffins' name signed thereto. mammy took them scrutinized both with great care (she could not read one word) nodded and said: "huh, um. yas, sir. i reckon _dat_ all squar'. if de house burn down ter night _we_ all gwine git de 'surance sure 'nough. yas--yas." "you certainly could collect whatever was comin' to you," mr. sniffins assured her, his late supercilious smile replaced by a most obsequious one for this representative of the possessors of the dollars he worshiped. mr. sniffins meant to have a good many dollars himself some day and the luxuries which dollars stand for. mammy nodded, and placing the receipt and letter in her bag gave a slight nod and turned to leave the office. mr. sniffins hurried to open the door for her. as she was about to cross the threshold she paused, eyed him keenly from the crown of his smoothly brushed head to his patent-leather-shod feet and then asked: "huccum yo' opens de do' fer niggers? ef yo' b'longed ter de quality yo'd let de niggers open de do's fer _yo_. yo' better run 'long an' ten' yo' ma's sody foun'in 'twell yo' learns de quality manners." an hour later mammy was busy in her kitchen, the receipts safely pinned within her bodice and no one the wiser for the morning's business transaction. chapter viii chemical experiments "eleanor! eleanor! where are you?" cried constance at the foot of the third-story stairs the following day after luncheon. blue monday had passed with its dull gray clouds and chill winds to give place to one of those rare, warm days which sometimes come to us late in october, as though the glorious autumn were loath to depart and had turned back for a last smile upon the land it loved. the great river lay like shimmering liquid gold, the air was filled with the warm, pungent odors of the late autumn woods, and a soft haze rested upon the opposite hills. "here in my room," answered eleanor. "what is it? what do you want? i can't come just this minute. come up if it's important." the voice was somewhat muffled as though the speaker's head were covered. constance bounded up the stairs, hurried across the hall and entered the large third-story front room which eleanor occupied. there was no sign of its occupant. "more experiments i dare say," she murmured as she entered, crossed the room and pushed open the door leading into a small adjoining room whereupon her nostrils were assailed by odors _not_ of araby--the blessed. "phew! ugh! what an awful smell! what under the sun are you doing? if you don't blow yourself to glory some day i shall be thankful," she ended as she pinched her nostrils together. "shut the door quick and don't let the smell get through the house or mother will go crazy when she gets home. yes, it _is_ pretty bad, but tie your handkerchief over your nose and then you won't mind it so much. as for blowing myself to glory, perhaps that will be my only way of ever coming by any, so i ought to be willing to take that route. but what do you want?" concluded eleanor, pouring one smelly chemical into a small glass which contained another, whereupon it instantly became a most exquisite shade of crimson. constance watched her closely without speaking. presently she said: "well i dare say it is 'everyone to her fancy,' as the old lady said when she kissed her cow (jean could appreciate that, couldn't she? she kisses baltie often enough) but _i'd_ rather be excused when chemical experiments are in order. don't for the life of me understand how you endure the smells and the mess. what is _that_ horrid looking thing over there?" and constance pointed to a grewsome-looking object stretched upon a small glass table at the farther side of the room. "my rabbit. i got it at the school laboratory and i've been examining its respiratory organs. they're perfectly wonderful, constance. want to see them? i'll be done with this in just a minute." "_no i don't!_" was the empathic negative. "i dare say it's all very wonderful and interesting and i ought to know all about breathing apparatus----_es_, or apparatti, or whatever the plural of our wind-pump machine _is_, but if i've got to learn by hashing up animals i'll never, _never_ know, and that's all there is about it. i'll take my knowledge on theory or supposition or whatever you call it. but i've nearly forgotten to tell you the news. i've had a letter from mrs. hadyn, mr. stuyvesant's aunt, the one he is named for you know, asking me to help at the candy counter at the memorial hospital fair, week after next, and, incidentally, contribute some of my 'delicious pralines and nut fudge'--that's in quotes remember,--and remain for the dance which will follow after ten-thirty on the closing evening. she will see that i reach home safely. how is _that_ for a frolic? i've been wild for a dance the past month." "is mother willing? what will you wear?" was the essentially feminine inquiry which proved that eleanor, even though absorbed in her sciences and isms, was a woman at heart. "what is the use of asking that? you know i've got to wear whatever is on hand to be utilized into gay and festive attire. i can't indulge in new frocks now-a-days when the finances are at such a low ebb. need all we've got for necessities without thinking of spending money for notions. but i'll blossom out gloriously; see if i don't. that was one reason i came up to talk to you. can you tear yourself away from your messes long enough to come up to the attic with me? i've been wanting to rummage for days, but haven't been able to get around to it. so tidy up, and come along. you've absorbed enough knowledge to last you for one while." eleanor wavered a moment and then began to put aside her materials, and a few moments later the two girls were up in the attic. "do you know what i believe i'll do?" said constance, after a half hour's rummaging among several trunks had brought forth a perplexing array of old finery, winter garments and outgrown apparel. "i believe i'll just cart down every solitary dud we've got here and have them all aired. i heard mother say last week that they ought to be, and she would have it done the first clear, dry day, and this one is simply heavenly. come on; take an armful and get busy. they smell almost as abominably from tar camphor as your laboratory smells of chemicals." "think i'd rather have the chemicals if my choice were consulted," laughed eleanor as obedient to instructions, she gathered up an armful of clothing and prepared to descend the stairs. "thanks, i'll take the tar. go on; i'll follow." little was to be seen of either girl as she moved slowly down the stairs. at the foot stood mammy. "fo' de lawd sake wha' yo' chillen at _now_?" she demanded as she stood barring their progress. "bringing out our winter wardrobes, mammy. good deal of it as to quantity; what it will turn out as to quality remains to be seen," cried constance cheerily. "lak' 'nough mos' anyt'ing if yo' had de handlin' ob it. yo' sartin' _is_ de banginest chile wid yo' han's," was mammy's flattering reply. "perhaps if i could 'bang' as well with my brains as with my hands i might amount to something, mammy. but nornie has all the brains of the family. _she_'ll make our fame and fortune some day; see if she doesn't." "guess i'll have to do something clever then if i am to become famous in _this_ day and age," said eleanor, as she made her way past mammy. "thus far i haven't given very noble promise." "who sesso?" demanded mammy. "ain' yo' de fust and fo'most up dere whar de school's at? what fur ole miss sendin' yo' dar fer den? huh, i reckon _she_ know whar ter spen' her money, an' gawd knows she ain' spendin' none what ain' gwine ter pintedly make up fer all she gin out. _she_ no fool, i tell yo'." the girls broke into peals of laughter, for mammy's estimation of "ol' miss," as she called mr. carruth's aunt by marriage, was a pretty accurate one, "aunt eleanor" being a lady who had very pronounced ideas and no hesitation whatever in giving expression to them, as well as a very strong will to back them up. she also had a pretty liberally supplied purse, the supply being drawn from a large estate which she had inherited from her father, a central new york farmer, who had made a fortune in fruit-growing and ended his days in affluence, although he had begun them in poverty. she had no children, her only son having died when a child, and her husband soon afterward. bernard carruth had always been a favorite with her, although she never forgave him for what she pronounced his "utter and imbecilic folly." it was aunt eleanor who made the seminary possible for the niece who had been named for her; a compliment which flattered the old lady more than she chose to let others suspect, for the niece was manifesting a fine mind, and the aunt had secretly resolved to do not a little toward its development although she took pains to guard the fact. "go along up-stairs and get an armful of things, mammy. that will keep you from flattering me and making me conceited," cried eleanor, when the laugh ended. "huh! mek a blairsdale 'ceited?" retorted mammy, as she started up to the attic. "dey's got too much what dey _knows_ is de right stuff fer ter pester dey haids studyin' 'bout it; it's right dar all de endurin' time; dey ain' gotter chase atter it lessen dey loses it." "was there ever such a philosopher as mammy?" laughed constance as they got beyond hearing. "wish there were a few more with as much sound sense--black or white--" answered eleanor as she shook out one of jean's frocks and hung it across the clothes-line. a moment later mammy joined them with more garments which cried aloud for the glorious fresh air and sunshine. she hung piece after piece upon the line, giving a shake here, a pat there, or almost a caress upon another, for each one recalled to her loving old heart the memory of more prosperous days, and each held its story for her. when all were swinging in the sunshine she stepped back and surveyed the array, her mouth pursed up quizzically, but her eyes full of kindness. "what are you thinking of mammy?" asked constance, slipping her fingers into mammy's work-hardened hand very much as she had done when a little child. "hum; um: what's i t'inkin' of? i'se t'inkin' dat ar lot ob clo'se supin lak we-all here: de'y good stuff in um, an' i reckon dey c'n stan' 'spection, on'y dey sartin _do_ stan' in need ob jist a _leetle_ spondulix fer ter put em in shape. dar's _too much_ ob em spread all _ober_. what dey needs is ter rip off some o' dem _ruffles_ and jis hang ter de plain frocks ter tek keer ob. we spen's a heap ob time breshin' ruffles dat we better spen' tekin' keer ob de frocks in," concluded mammy with a sage nod as she turned and walked into the house. "upon my word i believe mammy's pretty near right eleanor. we _have_ got a good many _ruffles_ to take care of on this big place and i sometimes feel that mother is wearing herself out caring for them. perhaps we would be wiser to give them up." "perhaps we would," agreed eleanor, "but where will we go if we give up the home? we have hardly known any other, for we were both too little to think much about homes or anything else when we came into this one. for my part, i am ready to do whatever is best and wisest, although i love every stick and stone here. mother has looked terribly worried lately although she hasn't said one word to me. has she to you? "no, nothing at all. but i know what you mean; her eyes look so tired. i wonder if anything new has arisen to make her anxious. she says so little at any time. i mean to have a talk with her this evening if i can get a chance. do you get jean out of the way. she is such an everlasting chatterbox that there is no hope of a quiet half hour while she is around. now let's take an inventory of this array and plan my frivolity frock," and constance drew eleanor down upon a rustic seat at one side of the lawn to discuss the absorbing question of the new gown to be evolved from some of the old ones which were swaying in the wind. perhaps a half hour passed, the girls were giving little heed to time, for the drowsy dreamy influence of the afternoon was impressing itself upon them. constance had planned the gown to the minutest detail, eleanor agreeing and secretly marveling at her ability to do so, when both became aware of a strong odor of smoke. "what is burning, i wonder?" said constance, glancing in the direction of a patch of woodland not far off. "leaves, most likely. the henrys' gardener has burned piles and piles of them ever since they began falling. i shouldn't think there would be any left for him to burn," answered eleanor, looking in the same direction. "it doesn't smell like leaves, it smells like wood, and--oh! eleanor, eleanor, look! look at your window! the smoke is just pouring from it! the house is a-fire! run! run! quick! quick!" chapter ix spontaneous combustion had the ground opened and disgorged the town, men, women and children could hardly have appeared upon the scene with more startling promptitude than they appeared within five minutes after constance's discovery of the smoke. how they got there only those who manage to get to every fire before the alarm ceases to sound can explain, and, as usual, there arrived with them the over-officious, and the over-zealous. as constance and eleanor rushed into the house, the multitude rushed across the grounds and followed them hotfoot, while one, more level-headed than his fellows, hastened to the nearest fire-box to turn in an alarm. meanwhile mammy had also smelt the smoke, and as the girls ran through the front hall she came through the back one crying: "fo' de lawd's sake wha' done happen? de house gwine burn down on top our haids?" "quick, mammy. it's eleanor's room," cried constance as she flew up the stairs. mammy needed no urging. in one second she had grasped the situation and was up in mrs. carruth's room dragging forth such articles and treasures as she knew to be most valued and piling them into a blanket. there was little time to waste for the flames had made considerable headway when discovered and were roaring wildly through the upper floor when the fire apparatus arrived. mrs. carruth was out driving with a friend and jean was off with her beloved amy fletcher. only those who have witnessed such a scene can form any adequate idea of the confusion which followed that outburst of smoke from eleanor's windows. men ran hither and thither carrying from the burning house whatever articles they could lay their hands upon, to drop them from the windows to those waiting below to catch them. firemen darted in and out, apparently impervious to either flames or smoke, directing their hose where the streams would prove most effectual and sending gallons of water upon the darting flames. the fact that the fire had started in the third-story saved many articles from destruction by the flames, although the deluge of water which flooded the house and poured down the stairways like miniature niagaras speedily ruined what the flames spared. eleanor rushed toward her room but was quickly driven back by a burst of flames and smoke that nearly suffocated her, while constance flew to jean's and her own room, meanwhile calling directions to mammy. five minutes, however, from the time they entered the house they were forced to beat a retreat, encountering as they ran miss jerusha pike, a neighbor who never missed any form of excitement or interesting occurrence in her neighborhood. "what can i do? have you saved your ma's clothes? did you get out that mirror that belonged to your great-grandmother?" she cried, as she laid a detaining hand upon constance's arm. "i don't know, miss pike. come out quick. it isn't safe to stay here another second. we must let the men save what they can. come." "no! no! i _must_ save your grandmother's mirror. i know just where it hangs. you get out quick. i won't be a second. go!" "never mind the mirror, there are other things more valuable than that," cried eleanor as she tugged at the determined old lady's arm. but miss pike was not to be deterred and rushed away to the second story in spite of them. "she'll be burned to death! i _know_ she will," wailed constance, as a man ran across the hall calling: "miss carruth, miss constance, where are you? you must get out of here instantly!" "oh, mr. stuyvesant, miss pike has gone up to mother's room and i must go after her." "you must do nothing of the sort. come out at once both of you. i'll see to her when i've got you to a place of safety," and without more ado hadyn stuyvesant hurried them both from the house to the lawn, where a motley crowd was gathered, and their household goods and chattels were lying about in the utmost confusion, while other articles, escorted by various neighbors, were being borne along the street to places of safety. one extremely proper and precise maiden lady was struggling along under an armful of mr. carruth's dress-shirts and pajamas brought forth from nobody knew where. a portly matron, with the tread of a general, followed her with a flatiron in one hand and a tiny doll in the other, while behind her a small boy of eight staggered beneath the weight of a wash boiler. "where is mammy? o _where_ is mammy?" cried eleanor, clasping her hands and looking toward the burning building. "here me! here me!" answered mammy's voice as she hurried toward them with a great bundle of rescued articles. "i done drug dese yer t'ings f'om de burer in yo' ma's room an' do you keep tight fas' 'em 'twell i come back. mind now what i'se telling' yo' kase dere's t'ings in dar dat she breck her heart ter lose. i'se gwine back fer sumpin' else." "o mammy! mammy, _don't go_. you'll be burned to death," cried constance, laying her hand upon mammy's arm to restrain her. "you mustn't mammy! you mustn't," echoed eleanor. "stay here with the girls, mammy, and let me get whatever it is you are bent upon saving," broke in hadyn stuyvesant. "aint no time for argufying," cried mammy, her temper rising at the opposition. "you chillun stan' _dar_ an' tek kere ob _dat_ bundle, lak i tell yo' an' yo', massa stuyv'sant, come 'long back wid me," was the ultimatum, and, laughing in spite of the gravity of the situation, hadyn stuyvesant followed mammy whom he ever afterward called the general. as they hurried back to the kitchen entrance the one farthest removed from the burning portion of the building, mammy's eyes were seemingly awake to every thing, and her tongue loosed of all bounds. as they neared the dining-room someone was dropping pieces of silver out of the window to someone else who stood just below it with skirts outspread to catch the articles. "ain' dat de very las' bit an' grain o' nonsense?" panted mammy. "dey's a-heavin' de silver plate outen de winder, an' bangin' it all ter smash stidder totin' it froo' de back do', and fo' gawd's sake look dar, massa stuyv'sant! dar go de' lasses!" cried mammy, her hands raised above her head as her words ended in a howl of derision, for, overcome with excitement the person who was dropping the pieces of silver had deliberately turned the syrup-jug bottom-side up and deluged the person below with the contents. had he felt sure that it would have been his last hadyn stuyvesant could not have helped breaking into peals of laughter, nor was the situation rendered less absurd by the sudden reappearance of miss pike clasping the treasured mirror to her breast and crying: "thank heaven! thank heaven i'm alive and have _saved_ it. _where_, where are those dear girls that i may deliver this priceless treasure into their hands?" "out yonder near the hedge, miss pike. i'm thankful you escaped. they are much concerned about you. better get along to them quick; i'm under mammy's orders," answered hadyn when he could speak. off hurried the zealous female while hadyn stuyvesant followed mammy who was fairly snorting with indignation. "dat 'oman certain'y _do_ mak' me mad. dat lookin' glass! huh! i reckons when miss jinny git back an' find what happen she aint goin' ter study 'bout no lookin' glasses. no suh! she be studyin' 'bout whar we all gwine put our _haids_ dis yere night. an' dat's what _i_ done plan fer," concluded mammy laying vigorous hold of a great roll of bedding which she had carried to a place of safety just outside the kitchen porch. "please, suh, tek' holt here an' holp me get it out yander ter de stable, i'se done got a sight o' stuff out dere a-reddy," and sure enough mammy, unaided, had carried enough furniture, bedding and such articles as were absolutely indispensable for living, out to the stable to enable the family to "camp out" for several days, and with these were piled the garments hastily snatched from the clothes-lines, baltie mounting guard over all. mrs. carruth had not been so very far wrong when she told mammy she believed she could move the house if necessity arose. meanwhile miss pike and her rescued mirror had reached the hedge, the girls breathing a sigh of relief when they saw her bearing triumphantly down upon them. "there! there! if i never do another deed as long as i live i shall feel that i have _not_ lived in vain! what _would_ your poor mother have said had she returned to find this priceless heirloom destroyed," she cried, as she rested the mirror against a tree trunk and clasped her hands in rapture at sight of it. "perhaps mother _might_ ask first whether _we_ had been rescued," whispered constance, but added quickly, "_there_ is mother now. o i wonder who told her," for just then a carriage was driven rapidly to the front gate and as the girls ran toward it mrs. carruth stepped quickly from it. she was very white and asked almost breathlessly, "girls, girls, is anyone hurt? are you _all_ safe? where's mammy?" "we are all safe mother, mammy is here. don't be frightened. we have done everything possible and the fire is practically out now," said constance, passing her arm about her mother who was trembling violently. "don't be alarmed, mother. it isn't really so dreadful as it might have been; it truly isn't," said eleanor soothingly. "loads of things have been saved." "yes, mammy has outgeneraled us all, mrs. carruth," cried hadyn stuyvesant, who now came hurrying upon the scene. "i guess she has shown more sense than all the rest of us put together, for she's kept her head." "and oh, my dear! my dear, if all else were lost there is one invaluable treasure spared to you! come with me. i saved it for you with my own hands. come!" cried miss pike, as she slipped her arm through mrs. carruth's and hurried her willy-nilly across the lawn. there was the little round mirror in its quaint old-fashioned frame leaning against the tree and reflecting all the weird scene in its shining surface, and there, too, directly in front of it, strutted a lordly game cock which belonged to the carruths' next door neighbor. how he happened to be there, in the midst of so much excitement and confusion no one paused to consider, but as miss pike hurried poor mrs. carruth toward the spot, sir chanticleer's burnished ruff began to rise and the next instant there was a defiant squawk, a frantic dash of brilliantly iridescent feathers, and the cherished heirloom lay shattered beneath the triumphant game-cock's feet as he voiced a long and very jubilant crow. it was the stroke needed, for in spite of the calamity which had overtaken her this was too much for mrs. carruth's sense of humor and she collapsed upon the piano stool which stood conveniently at hand, while miss pike bewailed chanticleer's deed until one might have believed it had been her own revered ancestor's mirror which had been shattered by him. just then mammy came hurrying upon the scene and was quick enough to grasp the situation at a glance. "bress de lawd, honey, ain' i allers tol' ye' chickens got secon' sight? dat roos'er see double suah. he see himself in dat lookin' glass an' bus' it wide open, an' he see we-all need ter laf stidder cry, an' so he set out ter mek us." at sight of her mrs. carruth stretched forth both hands like an unhappy child and was gathered into her faithful old arms as she cried: "but oh, mammy; mammy, the insurance; the insurance. if i had _only_ been able to pay it yesterday." "huh! don't you fret ober de 'surance. jis clap yo' eyes on _dat_," and mammy thrust into her miss jinny's hands a paper which she hastily drew from the bosom of her frock. chapter x readjustment it was all over. the excitement had subsided and all that remained to tell the story of the previous afternoon's commotion was a fire-scorched, water-soaked dwelling with a miscellaneous collection of articles decorating its lawn. when the early morning sunshine looked down upon the home which for eight years had sheltered the carruths, it beheld desolation complete. alas for eleanor's chemicals! her experiments had cost the family dear. the only living being in sight was a policeman mounting guard over the ruins. a staid and stolid son of the vatterland who had spent the wee sma' hours upon the premises and now stood upon the piazza upright and rigid as the inanimate objects all about him. beside him was a small, toy horse "saddled and bridled and ready to ride," and anything more absurd than the picture cut by this guardian of the law and his miniature charger it would be hard to imagine. meanwhile the family was housed among friends who had been quick to offer them shelter, mr. stuyvesant insisting that mrs. carruth and constance accept his aunt's hospitality through him, while the next door neighbor, mr. henry, harbored eleanor, jean and mammy, who refused point blank to go beyond sight of the premises and her charge--baltie. mammy was the heroine of the hour; for what the old woman had not thought of when everyone else's wits were scattered was hardly worth thinking of. in the blanket which she had charged the girls to guard were all of mrs. carruth's greatest treasures, among them a beautiful miniature of mr. carruth of which no one but mammy had thought. jewelry which had belonged to her mother was there, valuable papers hastily snatched from her desk, and many of the girl's belongings which would never have been saved but for mammy's forethought. at seven o'clock, when all was over, the crowd dispersed and the family gathered together in mr. henry's living-room to collect their wits and draw a long breath, mrs. carruth drew mammy to one side to ask: "mammy, what is the meaning of this receipt? i cannot understand it. who has paid this sum and where was it paid?" "baby, dere comes times when 'taint a mite er use ter tell what we gwine _do_. dat 'surance hatter be squar'd up an' dat settled it. so _i_ squar'd it--." "oh, mammy! mammy!" broke in mrs. carruth, almost in tears. "hush, chile! pay 'tention ter _me_. what would a come of we-all if i hadn't paid dat bill den an' dar? bress de lawd i had de cash an' don' pester me wid questions. ain' i tole yo' i'se _rich_? well den, dat settles it. when _yo_ is, yo' kin settle wid _me_. _dat_ don' need no argufyin' do it? now go long wid miss constance an' massa stuyvesant lak dey say an' git yo' sef ca'med down. yo' all a shakin' an' a shiverin' lak yo' got de ager, an' dat won' never do in de roun' worl'. yo'll be down sick on my han's." and that was all the old woman would ever hear about it. when the thirty dollars were returned to her in the course of a few days she took it with a chuckle saying: "huh! reckons _i_ knows wha' ter investigate _my_ money. done git my intrus so quick it like ter scar me." after the first excitement was over came the question of where the family was to live, and it was hadyn stuyvesant who settled it forthwith by offering the home which had been his mother's; a pretty little dwelling in the heart of riveredge which had been closed since his mother's death and his own residence with his aunt. so in the course of the next week the carruths were installed therein and began to adjust themselves to the new conditions the first question to be answered was the one concerning their home. should it be rebuilt with the money to be paid by the insurance company, or should it be sold? it was hard to decide, for sentiment was strongly in favor of returning to the home they all loved, while sound sense dictated selling the land and thus lessening expenses. sound sense carried the day, and the little house on hillside street became home, and in the course of a few weeks the machinery ran along with its accustomed smoothness, although it was some time before the family recovered from the shock of realizing how close they had come to losing all they possessed, and also keenly alive to the fact that what _had_ been saved must be carefully guarded. fifteen thousand was not an alarming sum to fall back upon and the rent for the new home although modest, compared with what their own would have commanded, had to be considered. meanwhile the girls had returned to their school duties, the older ones working harder than ever, especially eleanor, whose conscience troubled her not a little at thought of her carelessness which had caused all the trouble, for well she realized that her failure to care properly for the powerful acids with which she had been experimenting when constance appeared upon the scene had started the fire. constance had immediately set to work to evolve from the apparel rescued a winter wardrobe for the family, and displayed such ingenuity in bringing about new gowns and headgear from the old ones that the family flourished like green bay trees. still constance was not satisfied, and one afternoon said to eleanor, who now shared her room, but who had _not_ laid in a new supply of chemicals: "nornie, put down that book and listen to me, for i'm simmering with words o' wisdom and if i don't find a vent i'll boil over presently." eleanor laid aside the book she was poring over, laughing as she asked: "what is it--some new scheme for making a two-pound steak feed five hungry mouths, or a preparation to apply to the soles of shoes to keep them from wearing out?" "it has more to do with the stomach than the feet, but i'm not joking. i want to take account of stock and find out just where we are _at_ and just what we _can_ do. mother has her hands and head more than full just now, and i think _i_ ought to give a pull at the wheel too." "and what shall _i_ be about while you are doing the pulling? it seems to me a span can usually pull harder than a single horse. by-the-way, apropos of horses, what _has_ mammy done to poor old baltie? do you realize that she has not yet had him two months, but no one would ever recognize the old horse for the decrepit creature jean led home that afternoon." "i know it! isn't she a marvel? i believe she is half witch. why, blind and twenty-five years old as he is, old baltie to-day would bring jabe raulsbury enough money to make the covetous old sinner smile, i believe; if anything on earth could make him smile. i thought i should have screamed when she started off with her steed the other day. that old phaeton and harness she found in the barn here were especially sent by providence, i believe. i never expect to see a funnier sight if i live to be a hundred years old than mammy driving off down the road with that great basket of apples by her side and jean perched behind in the rumble. mammy was simply superb and proud as the african princess she insists she is," and constance laughed heartily at the picture she made. "what did she do with her apples? i wish i could have seen her," cried eleanor. "she had them stored away in our cellar. she had gathered them herself from mother's pet tree and packed them carefully in a couple of barrels. how on earth she finds time to do all the things she manages to i can't understand. she took that basket out to mrs. fletcher. you remember mrs. fletcher once said there were no apples like ours and mammy remembered it. still, i am afraid mrs. fletcher would never have seen that basket of apples if her home had not adjoined the raulsbury place. you know jabe had to pay a large fine before he could get free. such an hour of triumph rarely comes to two human beings as came to mammy and jean when they drove that old horse past jabe's gateway and kind fate drew him to that very spot at the moment. mammy is still chuckling over it, and jean isn't to be lived with. but enough of mammy and her charger, let's get to stock-taking." "yes, do," said eleanor. "i've been putting things down in black and white and here it is," said practical constance, opening a little memorandum book and seating herself beside her sister. "you see mother has barely fifteen hundred dollars a year from father's life insurance and even _that_ is somewhat lessened by the slump in those old stocks. now comes the fire insurance settlement and the interest on that won't be over seven hundred at the outside, will it?" "i'm afraid not," said eleanor with a doubtful shake of her head. "but suppose we are able to sell the old place?" "yes, 'suppose.' if we _do_, well and good, but supposes aren't much account for immediate needs, and those are the things we've got to think about now." "then let me think too," broke in eleanor. "you may _think_ all you've a mind to; that's exactly what your brains are for, and some day you'll astonish us all. meanwhile _i'll_ work." "now, constance, what are you planning? you know perfectly well that if you leave school and take up something that _i_ shall too. i _won't_ take all the advantages." "who said i had any notion of leaving school? not a bit of it. my plan won't affect my school work. but of that later. now to our capital. mother will have at the outside nineteen hundred a year, and out of that she will have to pay five hundred rent for this house. that leaves fourteen hundred wherewith to feed and clothe five people, doesn't it? now, she can't possibly _feed_, let alone clothe, us for less than twenty dollars a week, can she? and out of that must come fuel which is no small matter now-a-days. that leaves only three hundred and sixty dollars for all the other expenses of the year, and, nornie, it isn't enough. we _could_ live on less in town i dare say, but town is no place for jean while she's so little. she'd give up the ghost without a place to romp in. then, too, mother loves every stone in riveredge, and she is going to _stay_ here if i can manage it. so listen: you know what a fuss everybody at the fair made over my nut-fudge and pralines. well, i'm going to make candy to sell----." "oh, constance, you can't! you mustn't!" interrupted eleanor whose instincts shrank from any member of her family launching upon a business enterprise. "i can and i _must_," contradicted constance positively. "and what is more, i shall. so don't have a conniption fit right off, because i've thought it all out and i know just exactly what i can do." "mother will _never consent_," said eleanor firmly, and added, "and i hope she won't." "now nornie, see here," cried constance with decided emphasis. "what _is_ the use of being so ridiculously high and mighty? we aren't the first people, by a long chalk, that have met with financial reverses and been forced to do something to earn a livelihood. the woods are full of them and they are none the less respected either. for my part, i'd rather hustle round and earn my own duddies than settle down and wish for them, and wail because i can't have them while mother strives and struggles to make both ends meet. i haven't _brains_ to do big things in the world, but i've got what mammy calls 'de bangenest han's' and we'll see what they'll bang out!" concluded constance resolutely. "mammy will never let you," cried eleanor, playing what she felt to be her trump card. "on the contrary, mammy is going to _help_ me," announced constance triumphantly. "_what_, mammy consent to a blairsdale going into trade?" cried eleanor, feeling very much as though the foundations of the house were sinking. "even so, lady," answered constance, laughing at her sister's look of dismay. "old baltie was not rescued for naught. his days of usefulness were not ended as you shall see. but don't look so horrified, and, above all else, don't say one word to mother. there is no use to worry her, and remember she _is_ a blairsdale and it won't be so easy to bring her to my way of thinking as it has been to bring _you_; you're only half one, like myself, and remember we've got carruth blood to give us mercantile instincts." "as though the carruths were not every bit as good as the blairsdales," brindled eleanor indignantly. "cock-a-doodle! see its feathers ruffle. you are as spunky as the henry's game cock," cried constance laughing and gathering eleanor's head into her arms to maul it until her hair came down. "well," retorted eleanor, struggling to free herself from the tempestuous embrace, "so they are." "yes, my beloved sister. i'll admit all that, but bear in mind that _their_ ancestors were born in pennsylvania _not_ in 'ole caroliny, and that's the difference 'twixt tweedle-dum and tweedle-dee. i don't believe mad anthony stopped to consider whether he was a patrician or a plebeian when he was storming old stony point, or getting fodder for valley forge, so i don't believe _i_ will, when i set out to hustle for frocks and footgear for his descendants. so put your pride in your pocket, nornie, and watch me grow rich and the family blossom out in luxuries undreamed of. i'm going to _do_ it: you'll see," ended constance in a tone so full of hope and courage that eleanor then and there resolved not to argue the point further or discourage her. "when are you going to begin this enterprise?" she asked. "this very day. i'm only waiting for mammy to come back from market with some things i need, and there she is now. good-bye. go look after the little mumsie, or jean; you'd find your hands full with the last undertaking, no doubt," and with a merry laugh constance ran down-stairs to greet mammy who was just entering the back door. chapter xi first ventures "did you get all the things, mammy?" cried constance, as she flew into the kitchen where mammy stood puffing and panting like a grampus, for the new home was at the top of a rather steep ascent and the climb took the old woman's breath. "co'se ise got 'em," panted mammy, as she untied the strings of her bright purple worsted hood. "dar dey is, all ob 'em, eve'y one, an yo' kin git busy jes' as fas' as yo's a mind ter. but, la, honey, don' yo' let yo' _ma_ know nothin' 'tall 'bout it, 'cause she lak 'nough frail me out fer lettin' yo' do hit. but sumpin 's gotter be done in dis yere fambly. what wid de rint fer _dis_ place, an' de taxes for de yether, an' de prices dey's teken' ter chargin', fer t'ings ter _eat_, i 'clar' ter goodness dar ain't gwine be nuffin 'tall lef' fer we-all ter fall back on ef we done teken sick, er bleeged ter do sumpin' extra," ended mammy as she bustled about putting away her things and untying the packages as constance lifted them from the basket. "yes, you've got every single thing i need, mammy, and now i'll begin right off. which kettles and pans can you spare for my very own? i don't want to bother to ask every time and if i have my own set at the very beginning that saves bother in the end," cried constance, as she slipped her arms through the shoulder straps of a big gingham apron and after many contortions succeeded in buttoning it back of her shoulders. "dar you is!" said mammy, taking from their hooks, above her range two immaculate porcelain saucepans, and standing them upon the well-scrubbed kitchen table with enough emphasis to give the transfer significance. "dey's yours fer keeps, but don' yo' let me ketch yo' burnin' de bottoms of 'em." mammy could not resist this authoritative warning. then bustling across to her pantry she took out three shining pans and placed them beside the saucepans, asking: "now is yo' fixed wid all de impert'nances ob de bisness?" "all but the fire, mammy," laughed constance, rolling up her sleeves to disclose two strong, well-rounded arms. "well yo' fire's gwine ter be gas _dis_ time, chile'. yo' kin do what yo's a-mind ter wid dat little gas refrig'rator, what yo' turns on an' off wid de spiggots; _i_ aint got er mite er use fer hit. it lak ter scare me mos' ter deaf de fust mawnin' i done try ter cook de breckfus on it,--sputterin' an' roarin' lak it gwine blow de hull house up. no-siree, i ain' gwine be pestered wid no sich doin's 's _dat_. stoves an' wood 's good 'nough fer _dis_ 'oman," asserted mammy with an empathic wag of her head, for she had never before seen a gas range, and was not in favor of innovations. "then i'm in luck," cried constance, as she struck a match to light up her "gas refrigerator," mammy meanwhile eying her with not a little misgiving, and standing as far as possible from the fearsome thing. "tek keer, honey! yo' don' know what dem new-fangled mak'-believe stoves lak ter do. fust t'ing yo' know it bus' wide open mebbe." "don't be scared, mammy. they are all right, and safe as can be if you know how to handle them, and lots less trouble than the stove." "dat may be too," was mammy's skeptical reply. "but _i'll_ tek de trouble stidder de chance of a busted haid." before long the odor of boiling sugar filled the little kitchen, the confectioner growing warm and rosy as she wielded a huge wooden spoon in the boiling contents of her saucepans, and whistled like a song thrush. constance carruth's whistle had always been a marvel to the members of her family, and the subject of much comment to the few outsiders who had been fortunate enough to hear it, occasionally, for it was well worth hearing. it had a wonderful flute-like quality, with the softest, tenderest, low notes. moreover, she whistled without any apparent effort, or the ordinary distortion of the mouth which whistling generally involves. the position of her lips seemed scarcely altered while the soft sounds fell from them. but she was very shy about her "one accomplishment," as she laughingly called it, and could rarely be induced to whistle for others, though she seldom worked without filling the house with that birdlike melody. as she grew more and more absorbed with her candy-making the clear, sweet notes rose higher and higher, their rapid _crescendo_ and increasing _tempo_ indicating her successful progress toward a desired end. while apparently engaged in preparing a panful of apples, mammy was covertly watching her, for, next to her baby, jean, constance was mammy's pet. when the candy was done, constance poured it into the pans. "now in just about two jiffies that will be ready to cut. keep one eye on it, won't you mammy, while i run up-stairs for my paraffin paper," she said, as she set the pans outside to cool and whisked from the kitchen, mammy saying under her breath as she vanished: "if folks could once hear dat chile _whis'le_ dey'd hanker fef ter hear it agin, an' dey'd keep on a hankerin' twell dey'd _done_ hit. she beat der bu'ds, an' dat's a fac'." "now i guess i can cut it," cried constance, as she came hurrying back. the sudden chill of the keen november air had made the candy the exact consistency for cutting into little squares, and in the course of the next half hour they were all cut, carefully wrapped in bits of paraffin paper and neatly tied in small white paper packages with baby-ribbon of different colors. four dozen as inviting parcels of delicious home-made candy as any one could desire, and all made and done up within an hour and a half. "there, mammy! what do you think of _that_ for my initial venture?" asked constance, looking with not a little satisfaction upon the packages as they lay in the large flat box into which she had carefully packed them. "bate yo' dey hits de markit spang on de haid," chuckled mammy. "an' now _i'se_ gwine tek holt. la, ain' i gwine cut a dash, dough! yo' see _me_," and hastily donning her hood and shawl, and catching up an apple from her panful, off mammy hurried to the little stable which stood in one corner of the small grounds, where baltie had lived, and certainly flourished since the family came to dwell in this new home. mammy never entered that stable without some tidbit for her pet, for she had grown to love the blind old horse as well as jean did, and was secretly consumed with pride at his transformation. as she entered the stable, baltie greeted her with his soft nicker. "yas, honey, mammy's comin'; comin' wid yo' lolly-pop, kase she want yo' ter step out spry. yo's gwine enter a pa'tner-ship, yo' know _dat_, baltie-hawse? yo' sure _is_. yo's de silen' pa'tner, yo' is, an' de bline one too. jis as well ter hab one ob 'em bline mebbe," and mammy chuckled delightedly at her own joke. "now come 'long out an' be hitched up, kase we's gwine inter business, yo' an' me' an' we gotter do some hustlin'. come 'long," and opening the door of the box-stall in which old baltie now-a-days luxuriated, mammy dragged him forth by his forelock and in less time than one could have believed it possible, had him harnessed to the old-fashioned basket phaeton which during mrs. stuyvesant's early married life had been a most up-to-date equipage, but which now looked as odd and antiquated as the old horse harnessed to it. but in mammy's eyes they were tangible riches, for hadyn stuyvesant had presented her with both phaeton and harness. opening wide the stable doors, mammy clambered into her chariot, and taking up the reins, guided her steed gently forward. baltie ambled sedately up to the back door where constance was waiting to hand mammy the box. "mind de do' an' don' let my apples bake all ter cinders," warned mammy. "i will. i won't. good luck," contradicted constance, as she ran back into the house, and mammy drove off toward south riveredge; a section of the town as completely given over to commercial interests as riveredge proper was to its homes. there a large carpet factory throve and flourished giving employment to many hands. there, also, stood a large building called the central arcade in which many business men had their offices. it was about a mile from the heart of riveredge proper and as mammy jogged along toward her destination, she had ample time to think, and chuckle to herself at her astuteness in carrying out her own ideas of the fitness of things while apparently fully concurring with constance's wishes. mammy had no objections to constance _making_ all the candy she chose to make; that could be done within the privacy of her own home and shock _no_ one's sensibilities. but when the girl had announced her intention of going among her friends to secure customers, mammy had descended upon her with all her powers of opposition. the outcome had been the present compromise. very few people in south riveredge knew the carruths or mammy, and this was exactly what the old woman wished. driving her "gallumping" steed to the very heart of the busy town she drew up at the curbstone in front of the arcade just a few moments before the five o'clock whistles blew. stepping from her vehicle she placed a campstool upon the sidewalk beside it, and lifting her box of candy from the seat established herself upon her stool with the open box upon her lap. within two minutes of the blowing of the whistles the streets were alive with people who came hurrying from the buildings on every side. mammy was a novelty and like most novelties took at once, so presently she was doing a thriving business, her tongue going as fast as her packages of candy. people are not unlike sheep; where one leads, all the others follow. "home-made candy, sah! fresh f'om de home-kitchen; jis done mek hit. ain' hardly col'. ten cents a package, sah. yes _sah_, yo' better is bleeve hit's deleshus. yo' ain' tas' no pralines lak dem in all yo' bo'n days," ran on mammy handing out her packages of candy and dropping her dimes into the little bag at her side. "here, aunty, give me four of those packages of fudge," cried a genial, gray-haired, portly old gentleman with a military bearing. "porter, here, has just given me some of his and they're simply great! did you make 'em? they touch the spot." "la, suh, i ain' _got_ four left: i ain', fer a fac'. tek some of de pralines; deys mighty good, suh," bustled mammy, offering her dainties. "take all you've got. did _you_ make 'em?" persisted her customer. "my _pa'tner_ done mak 'em," said mammy with dignity, as she handed over her last package. "well you darkies _can_ cook," cried the gentleman as he took the candy. for a moment it seemed as though mammy were about to fly at him, and her customer was not a little astounded at the transformation which came over her old face. then he concluded that the term "darkie" had been the rock on which they had split, and smiled as he said: "better set up business right here in the arcade. buy you and your _partner_ out every day. good-bye, auntie." "good-bye, suh! good-bye," responded mammy, her equanimity quite restored, for her good sense told her that no reflections had been cast upon her "pa'tner" in riveredge, or her identity suspected. moreover, her late customer had put a new idea into her wise old head which she turned over again and again as she drove back home. constance was waiting with the lantern, and hurried out to the stable as mammy turned in at the gate. "oh, mammy, did you _sell_ some?" she asked eagerly. "sell some! what i done druv dar fer? co'se i sell some; i sell eve'y las' bit an' grain. tek dat bag an' go count yo' riches, honey. _sell some!_ yah! yah!" laughed mammy as she descended from her chariot and began to unharness her steed, while constance hugged the bag and hurried into the house. "what are you hiding under your cape?" demanded jean as her sister ran through the hall, and up the stairs. jean's eyes did not often miss anything. "my deed to future wealth and greatness," answered constance merrily, as she slipped into her room and locked the door, where she dumped the contents of the bag, dimes, nickels, and pennies, into the middle of the bed. "merciful sakes! who would have believed it?" she gasped. "four dollars and eighty cents for one afternoon's work, and at least three-eighty of it clear profit, and mammy has _got_ to share some of it. mumsie, dear, i think i can keep the family's feet covered at all events," she concluded in an ecstatic whisper. chapter xii another shoulder is added thanksgiving and christmas had come and passed. constance's "candy business" as she called it, throve and flourished spasmodically. could she have carried out her wishes concerning it, the venture might have been more profitable, but mammy, the autocrat, insisted that it should be kept a secret, and the habit of obedience to the old woman's dictates was deeply rooted in the carruth family, even mrs. carruth yielding to it far more than she realized. so constance made her candy during her free hours after school and mammy carried it into south riveredge when opportunity offered. this was sometimes twice, but more often only once, a week, for the faithful old soul had manifold duties and was too conscientious to neglect one. sometimes all the packages were sold off as quickly as they had been on that first red-letter day, but at other times a good many were left over. could they again have been offered for sale upon the following day they might easily have been disposed of, but mammy could not go to south riveredge two days in succession and, consequently, the candy grew stale before another sale's day arrived, was a loss to its anxious manufacturer, and caused her profits to shrink very seriously. things had been going on in this rather unsatisfactory manner for about six weeks when one saturday morning little miss paulina pry, as constance sometimes called jean, owing to her propensity to get to the bottom of things in spite of all efforts to circumvent her, came into her sister's room to ask in the most innocent manner imaginable: "connie, who does mammy know in south riveredge?" "nobody, that i know of," answered constance unsuspectingly. "i thought she had a cousin living there," was the next leader. "a cousin, child! why mammy hasn't a relative this side of raleigh and i don't believe she has two to her name down there. if she has, she hasn't seen them since mother brought her north before we were born." "i knew it!" was the triumphant retort, "and _now_ i'll get even with her for telling me fibs." "jean, what do you mean?" cried constance now fully alive to the fact that she had fallen into a trap. "i mean just this: i've been watching mammy drive off to south riveredge every solitary week since before thanksgiving, and i've asked her ever so many times to take me with her; she lets me go everywhere else with her and baltie. but she wouldn't take me there and when i asked her why not, she always said because she was going to visit with her cousins in-the-lord, and 'twan't no fit place for white folks. i _knew_ she was telling a fib, and _now_ i'm going right down stairs to tell her so," and jean whirled about to run from the room. constance made a wild dive and caught her by her sleeve. "jean, stop! listen to me. you are not to bother mammy with questions. she has a perfect right to do or go as she chooses," said constance with some warmth, and instantly realized that she had taken the wrong tack, for the little pepper-pot began to liven up. jerking herself free she struck an attitude, saying: "you are just as bad as mammy! _you_ know where she goes, and what she goes for, but you won't tell me. keep your old secrets if you want to, but i'll find out, see if i don't. and i'll get even too. you and mammy think i'm nothing but a baby, but you'll see. i'm most eleven years old, and if i can't be told the truth about things now, i'd like to know why," and with a final vigorous wrench jean freed herself from her sister's grasp and fled down the stairs, constance murmuring to herself as the little whirlwind disappeared: "i wonder if it wouldn't be wiser to let her into the secret after all? in the first place it is all nonsense to _keep_ it a secret, and just one of mammy's high-falutin ideas of what's right and proper for a blairsdale. fiddlesticks for the blairsdales say i, when certain things should be done. i'm going to tell that child anyway. she is ten times easier to deal with when she knows the truth, and she can keep a secret far better than some older people i might mention. jean; jean; come back; i want to tell you something." but jean had gone beyond hearing. "never mind; i'll tell her by-and-by," resolved constance and soon forgot all about the matter while completing her english theme for monday. could she have followed her small sister her state of mind would have been less serene. jean's first reconnoiter was the dining-room. all serene; nothing doing; mother up in her room. eleanor gone out. mammy in the kitchen stirring quietly about. jean slipped into the butler's pantry. there on a shelf stood a big white box marked "lord & taylor, ladies' suit dept." jean's nose rose a degree higher in the air as she drew near it and carefully raised the lid. "ah-hah! didn't i know it! i guess her cousins-in-the-lord must like candy pretty well, for she has taken that box with her every single time she's gone to south riveredge," whispered this astute young person. now it so happened that as mammy had advanced in years, she had grown somewhat hard of hearing, and had also developed a habit quite common to her race; that of communing aloud with herself when alone. jean was quite alive to this and more than once had caused the old woman to regard her with considerable awe by casually mentioning facts of which mammy believed her to be entirely in ignorance, and, indeed, preferred she _should_ be, little guessing that her own monologues had given the child her cue. clambering softly upon the broad shelf which ran along one side of the pantry, jean gently pushed back the sliding door made to pass the dishes to and from the kitchen, and watched mammy's movements. the kitchen was immaculate and mammy was just preparing to set forth for her saturday morning's marketing, a task she would not permit any one else to undertake, declaring that "dese hyer norf butcher-men stood ready fer ter beat folks outen dey eyesight ef dey git er chance." as usual mammy was indulging in a soliloquy. "dar now. dat's all fix an' right, an' de minit i gits back i kin clap it inter de oven," she murmured as she set her panfuls of bread over the range for their second rising. "i gotter git all dis hyer wo'k off my han's befo' free 'clock terday ef i gwine get ter souf riveredge in time fer ter sell all dat mes o' candy." behind the window a small body's head gave a satisfied nod. "'taint lak week days. de sto'es tu'n out mighty early on sattidays. hopes i kin sell eve'y bit and grain _dis_ time. i hates ter tote any home agin, an' dat chile tryin' so hard ter holp her ma." over little paulina pry's face fell a shadow, and for a moment the big eyes grew suspiciously bright. then wounded pride caused them to flash as their owner whispered to herself, "she _might_ have told me the truth." then the kitchen door was shut, locked from the outside, and mammy departed. jean got down from her perch and stood for a few moments in the middle of the pantry floor in deep meditation. then raising her head with a determined little nod she said under her breath, "_i'll_ show 'em." to hurry out to the hall closet where her everyday hat, coat and gloves were kept, took but a moment. in another she had put them on, and was on her way to the stable. to harness baltie was somewhat of an undertaking, but by the aid of a box which raised her to the necessary height this was done, the old horse nickering softly and rubbing his head against her as she proceeded. "yes baltie, dear. _you_ and _i_ have a secret now and _don't_ you _tell_ it. if _they_ think they are so smart, _we'll_ show them that _we_ can do something too." at length the harnessing was done, and slipping back to the house jean went into the pantry, lifted up the box so plainly labeled "ladies' suits" and sped away to the stable where she placed it carefully upon the bottom of the phaeton, tucking the carriage rug around and about it in such a manner that even the liveliest suspicion would have nothing to feed upon. then opening the double doors she led baltie through them, and out of the driveway to the side street on which it opened, and which could not be seen from the front of the house where the young lady knew her mother and sister to be at this critical moment. only a second more was needed to run back and close the stable doors and the gates, and all tracks were covered. in that immediate vicinity the queer turnout was well-known by this time, so no curiosity was aroused by its appearance. as usual, jean had not paused to mature her plans. their inception was enough for the time being; details could follow later. plod, plod, fell baltie's hoofs upon the macadamized street as jean guided him slowly along. the day was cold, but clear and crisp, with just a hint of wind or snow from the mare's tails overhead in the blue. jean had no very clear idea of what her next step would be, and was rather trusting to fate to show her. perhaps baltie had a better one than his driver, or perhaps it was sense of direction and force of habit which was heading him toward south riveredge; baltie's intelligence did not appear to wane with his years. at all events, he was going his usual route when jean spied mammy far ahead and in a trice fate had stepped in to give things a twist. to pull baltie around and guide him into a street which led to east instead of south riveredge was the work of a second. jean thought she could go back by another street which led diagonally into south riveredge but when she reached it she found it closed for repairs. turning around involved more or less danger and she had a thought for that which lay at her feet. so on she went, hoping to get into south riveredge sooner or later. like many suburban towns, riveredge had certain sections which were given over to the poorer element, and in such sections could always be found enough idle, mischievous youngsters to make things interesting for other people, particularly on saturdays when they were released from the restraint of school. jean had proceeded well along upon her way when she was spied by two or three urchins upon whose hands time was hanging rather heavily, and to whom the novel sight of a handsome, neatly-clad child, perched in a phaeton which might have been designed for noah, and driving a blind horse, was a vision of joy. "hi, billy, get on ter de swell rig," bawled one worthy son of mckim's hollow. "gee! aint he a stunner! say, where did yer git him?" yelled billy, prompt to take up the ball, and give it a toss. "mebbe he's de ghost av yer granfather's trotter," was the next salute. "hi, what's his best time. forty hours fer de mile?" asked a larger lad, hanging on to the back of the phaeton and winding his heels into the springs. "get down! go away!" commanded jean. "couldn't," politely replied her passenger. "say yer oughter have a white hawse wid all dat red hair," yelled a new addition to the number already swarming after her. "git a move on," was the next cry, as a youth armed with a long stick joined the crowd. things were growing decidedly uncomfortable for jean whose cheeks were blazing, and whose eyes were flashing ominously. just then one urchin made a grab for the whip but she was too quick for him, and once having it in her hand was tempted to lay about vigorously. as though divining her thoughts, the smaller boys drew off but he of the stick scorned such an adversary, although discretion warned him not to lay it upon her. the old horse, however, was not so guarded by law and the stick descended upon his flanks with all the strength of the young rowdy's arms. he would better have struck jean! never since coming to live in his present home had baltie felt a blow, but during all those four months had been petted, loved and cared for in a manner to make him forget former trials, and in spite of his age, renew his strength and spirits. true, he was never urged to do more than jog, jog, jog along, but under the spur of this indignity some of his old fire sprung up and with a wild snort of resentment he plunged forward. as he did so, down came the whip across his assailant's head, for jean had forgotten all else in her wrath; she began to lay about her with vigor, and the battle was on in earnest. perhaps john gilpin cut a wilder dash yet it is doubtful. chapter xiii the battle of town and gown jean had come about a mile from riveredge before encountering her unwelcome escort, and a mile for old baltie was considered a good distance by mammy who always blanketed him carefully and gave him a long rest after such exertion. the sight of the old woman's care for her horse had won her more than one feminine customer in south riveredge and not infrequently they entered into conversation with her regarding him. mammy needed no greater encouragement to talk, and baltie's history became known to many of her customers. could mammy have witnessed baltie's wild careerings as he pounded along to escape his tormentors, while jean strove desperately to beat them off, she would probably have expired upon the spot. but baltie's strength was not equal to any long-sustained effort and his breath soon became labored. the shouting cavalcade had gone about half a mile at its wild pace and jean had done her valiant best, but the numbers against her had been steadily augmented as she proceeded, and the situation was becoming really dangerous. she stood up in the phaeton, hat hanging by its elastic band, hair flying and eyes flashing as she strove to beat off her pursuers. most of them, it must be admitted, were good-natured, and were simply following up their prank from a spirit of mischief. but two or three had received stinging lashes from the whip and the sting had aroused their ire. jean's strength as well as old baltie's was giving out when from the opposite side of a high arbor-vitæ hedge arose a cry of: "gown to the rescue! gown to the rescue!" and the next second the road seemed filled with lads who had apparently sprung from it, and a lively scrimmage was afoot. the boys who had so lately been making things interesting for jean and baltie, turned to flee precipitately, but were pretty badly hustled about before they could escape; he of the stick being captured red-handed as he launched a blow that came very near proving a serious one for jean since it struck the whip from her hands and landed it in the road. the poor child collapsed upon the seat, and strove hard to suppress a sob, for she would have died sooner than cry before the boys of the "irving preparatory school." baltie needed no second hint to make him understand that the time had come to let his friends take up the battle, and bracing his trembling old legs he stood panting in the middle of the road. "i say, what did this fellow do to you, little girl?" demanded a tall, fine-looking lad, whose dark gray eyes were flashing with indignation, and whose firm mouth gave his captive reason to know that he meant whatever he said. at any other time jean would have resented the "little girl," but during the past fifteen minutes she had felt a very small girl indeed. "he's a coward! a great, hulking coward!" she blazed at the hapless youth whom her champion held so firmly by his collar as he stood by the phaeton. the other lads who had now completely routed jean's tormentors were gathering about her, some with looks of concern for her welfare, some with barely restrained smiles at her plight and her turnout. "what'll i do to him? punch his head?" demanded knight errant. "no, shake it most off!" commanded jean. "he nearly made mine shake off," she concluded, as she pushed her hair from her eyes and jerked her hat back into place. "my goodness just look at the state i'm in and look at baltie; i don't know what mammy will say. aren't you ashamed of yourself, you great big bully, to torment a girl and a poor old blind horse. oh, i _wish_ i were a boy! if i wouldn't give you bally-whacks." a smile broke over knight errant's face, but his victim trembled in his boots. "all right then, here goes, since you won't let me punch it," and jean's injunctions to shake her tormentor's head "most off" seemed in a fair way to be obeyed, for the next second its owner was being shaken very much as a rat is shaken by a terrier and the head was jerked about in a most startling manner. "now get out! skiddoo! and if we catch you and your gang out this way again you'll have a pretty lively time of it, and don't you forget it either," said knight errant with a final shake, and long stick was hustled upon his way toward his friends who had not paused to learn his fate. this boy who acted as spokesman, and who appeared to be a leader among his companions, then said: "i say, your old horse is pretty well knocked up, isn't she? how far have you come? better drive into the school grounds and rest up a bit before you go back. come on!" and going to baltie's head the lad took hold of the rein to lead him through the gateway. baltie never forgot his manners, however great the stress under which he was laboring, so turning his sightless eyes toward his new friend, he nickered softly, and rubbed his muzzle against him. the lad laughed and raising his hand stroked the warm neck as he said: "found a friend at last, old boy? well, come on then, for you needed one badly." "guess he _did_!" said jean. "my gracious, i don't know what we would have done if you boys hadn't come out to help us. how did you happen to hear us?" "we were out on the field with the ball. i guess it's lucky for you we were, too, for there's a tough gang up there near riveredge. we're always on the lookout for some new outbreak, and we make it lively if they come up this way, you'd better believe. they don't try it very often, but you were too big a chance for 'em this time, and they sailed right in. but they sailed at the wrong time for we are never happier to exchange civilities with them than when we have on our togs," ended the lad, as he glanced at the foot-ball suits which he and a number of his chums were wearing. "oh, are you playing foot-ball? i wish i could see you," cried jean eagerly, all thoughts of her late plans flying straight out of her head. "better come over to the field then," laughed her escort. "i'd love to but i guess i can't to-day. i'm on important business. i'm going to south riveredge," she said, suddenly recalling her errand. "south riveredge!" echoed a lad who walked at the other side of the phaeton. "why it's nearly four miles from here. it's almost two to riveredge itself. what brought you out this way if you were going to south riveredge?" but to explain just why she had turned off the direct road to south riveredge would be a trifle embarrassing, so jean decided to give another reason: "i thought i knew my way but i guess i must have missed it, those boys tormented me so." "i guess you did miss it, but i don't wonder. well, rest here a little while, and then we'll start you safely back. guess one of us better go along with her hadn't we, ned?" he asked of the gray-eyed boy. "if we want her to get back whole i guess we had," was the laughing answer, as baltie's guide led him up to a carriage step and stopped. baltie's coat was steaming. "got a blanket? better let me put it on your horse. he's pretty warm from his race and the day is snappy." jean bounded up from the seat and pulled the blanket from it. it was not a very heavy blanket and when the boy had put it carefully upon the old horse, it seemed hardly thick enough to protect him. "let me have the rug too," he ordered, and without a second's thought jerked up the rug and gave it a toss. up came the box of candy with it, to balance a second upon one end as daintily as a tight-rope dancer balances upon a rope, then keel gracefully over and land bottom-side-up, upon the tan-bark of the driveway, the packages of candy flying in twenty different directions. jean's cry of dismay was echoed by the boys' shouts as their eyes quickly grasped the significance of those dainty white parcels. a wild scramble to rescue her wares followed, as jean was plied with questions. "are they yours? what are you going to do with them?" "are they for sale?" "can we buy some?" "how much are they?" "lend me some cash, bob?" never was an enterprising merchant so suddenly plunged into a rushing business. jean's head whirled for a moment. how much were the packages of candy? she hadn't the vaguest idea, and circumstances had not made it convenient to ascertain before she set forth. however, her wits came to her rescue and she recalled the little packages which constance had made for the fair, and which had sold for ten cents each. so ten cents _she_ would charge, and presently was doling out her rescued packages of fudge and dropping dimes into her box to take the place of the packages which were so quickly disappearing from it. given four dozen packages of exceptionally delicious home-made candy, and twenty or thirty boys, after an hour's foot-ball exercise, upon a crisp january morning, each more or less supplied with pocket money, and it is a combination pretty sure to work to the advantage of the candy-maker. jean's eyes danced, and her face was radiant. her business was in its most flourishing stage when she became aware that another actor had appeared upon the scene, and was regarding her steadily through a pair of very large, very round, and very thick-lensed eye-glasses, and with the solemn expression of a meditative owl. how long he had been a silent observer of her financial operations jean had no idea. his presence did not appear to embarrass the boys in any way; indeed, when they became aware of it two or three of them promptly urged him to partake of their toothsome dainties. this he did in the same grave, absorbed manner. "great, aint they, professor?" asked one lad. "quite unusual. who is the juvenile vender?" he asked. "we don't know. she was out yonder in the road with half mckim's hollow after her when we fellows rallied to the rescue. she was as plucky as any thing, and was putting up a great standoff when we got in our licks." "ah! indeed! and how came she to have such a feast along with her. i'll take another, thank you, ned. they are really excellent," and instead of "another" the last three of "ned's" package were calmly appropriated and eaten in the same abstracted manner that the other pieces had been. ned looked somewhat blank and turning toward one of his companions, winked and smiled slyly, then said to the professor: "better buy some quick. they are going like hot cakes." chapter xiv the candy enterprise grows "i believe i shall," and drawing closer to the phaeton the professor peered more closely at its occupant as he said: "i say, little girl, i think i'll take all you have there. they are exceedingly palatable. and i would really like to know how it happens that a child apparently so respectable as yourself should be peddling sweets. you--why you might really be a gentleman's daughter," he drawled. now it had never for a moment occurred to jean that appearances might prove misleading to those whose powers of observation were not of the keenest, or that a much disheveled child driving about the country in an antiquated phaeton, to which was harnessed a patriarchal horse, might seem to belong to a rather lower order in the social scale than her mother had a right to claim. so the near-sighted professor's remark held anything but a pleasing suggestion. for a moment she hardly grasped its full significance, then drawing up her head like an insulted queen, she regarded the luckless man with blazing eyes as she answered: "i am a carruth, thank you, and the carruths do as they _please_. you need not buy these candies if you don't wish to. i can get plenty of customers among my friends--the boys." when did unconscious flattery prove sweeter? those same "friends--the boys" would have then and there died for the small itinerant whose wares had so touched their palates, and who was openly choosing their patronage over and above that of an individual who had now and again caused more than one of them to pass an exceedingly bad quarter of an hour. a suppressed giggle sounded not far off, but the professor's face retained its perfect solemnity as he bent his head toward jean to get a closer view. "hum; ah; yes. i dare say you are quite right. i was probably over hasty in drawing conclusions," was the calm response. "_mammy_ says a _gentleman_ can always rec'o'nize a lady," flashed jean, unconsciously falling into mammy's vernacular. "and who is mammy, may i inquire?" asked the imperturbable voice, its owner absently eating lumps of fudge and pralines at a rate calculated to speedily reduce the supply he had on hand, the lads meanwhile regarding the vanishing "lumps of delight" with longing eyes. "why she's _mammy_," replied jean with considerable emphasis. "mammy _what_?" was the very unprofessional question which followed. "mammy blairsdale, of course. _our_ mammy." there was no answer for a moment as the candy continued to melt from sight like dew before the morning sun. then the professor looked at her steadily as he slowly munched his sweets, causing jean to think of the henrys' cow when in a ruminative mood. "little girl, are you from the south?" "don't _call_ me 'little girl' again!" flared jean, bringing her foot down upon the bottom of the phaeton with a stamp. "i just naturally despise to be called 'little girl.' i'm jean, and i want to be called jean." "jean, jean. pretty name. well _miss_ jean, are you from the south?" "my _mother is_. she was a _blairsdale_," replied "miss" jean, much as she might have said she is the daughter of england's queen, much mollified at having the cognomen added. "do you happen to know which part of the south you come from?" "_i_ don't come from the south at all. i was born right here in riveredge. my mother came from forestvale, north carolina." "i thought i knew the name. yes, it is very familiar. blairsdale. yes. quite so. quite so. rather curious, however. so many years. my grandmother was a blairsdale too. singular coincidence, _she_ had red hair, i'm told, yes, really. think i must follow it up. very good, indeed. did _you_ make them? i judge not. who did? i must know where to get more when i have a fancy for some," and having eaten the last praline the professor absent-mindedly put into his mouth the paper in which they had been wrapped, having unconsciously rolled it into a nice little wad while talking. a funny twinkle came into his eyes when his mistake dawned upon him and turning to the grinning boys he said: "i have heard of men putting the lighted end of a cigar into their mouths by mistake. this was less unpleasant at all events," and the wad was tossed to the driveway. the boys burst into shouts of laughter and the ice was broken. crowding about the phaeton they asked: "who makes the candy? do you always sell it? when can we get some more? say, professor, do you really know her folks? who _is_ she any how?" "i told you my name, and i live in riveredge. my sister makes the candy, but she doesn't know i'm selling it. maybe she'll let me bring you some more, and maybe she won't. i don't know. and maybe i'll catch hail-columbia-happy-land when i get back home," concluded the young lady, her lips coming together with decision and her head wagging between doubt and defiance. "but i don't care one bit if i do. i've sold _all_ the candy, and i've got just piles of money; so _that_ proves that i _can_ help as well as the big girls even if _i_ am too little to be trusted with their old secrets. and now i've got to go straight back home or they'll all be scared half to death. perhaps they won't want to scold so hard if they are good and scared." "one of us will go with you till you get past mckim's hollow," cried the boys. "ned can, can't he, professor?" "i believe i'll go myself," was the unexpected reply. "i was about to walk over to riveredge, but i think perhaps miss jean will allow me to ride with her," and without more ado professor forbes, b.a., b.c., b.m., and half a dozen other bachelors, gravely removed the coverings from old baltie, folding and carefully placing the blanket upon the seat and laying the rug over jean's knees. after he had tucked her snugly in, he took his seat beside her. "now, miss jean, i think we are all ready to start." if anything could have been added to complete jean's secret delight at the attention shown her, it was the dignified manner in which the professor raised his hat, the boys as one followed his example, as baltie ambled forth. "that is the way i _like_ to be treated. i _hate_ to be snubbed because i'm only ten years old," thought she. as they turned into the road the distant whistles of south riveredge blew twelve o'clock. jean started slightly and glanced quickly up at her companion. "the air is very clear and still to-day," he remarked. "we hear the whistles a long distance." "it's twelve o'clock. i wonder what mammy is thinking," was jean's irrelevant answer. "does mammy think for the family?" asked the professor, a funny smile lurking about the corners of his mouth. jean's eyes twinkled as she answered: "she was _mother's_ mammy too." "ah! i think i understand. i lived south until i was fifteen." "did you? how old are you now?" was the second startling question. "how old should you think?" was the essentially yankee reply, which proved that the southern lad had learned a trick or two from his northern friends. jean regarded him steadily for a few moments. "well, when you raised your hat a few minutes ago your hair looked a little thin on _top_, so i guess you're going to be bald pretty soon. but your eyes, when you laugh, look just about like the boys'. perhaps you aren't so very old though. maybe you aren't much older than mr. stuyvesant. do you know him?" "yes, i know him. he is younger than i am though." the professor did not add "exactly six months." "yes, i thought you were lots older. he's the kind you _feel_ is young and you're the kind you feel is old, you know." "oh, am i? wherein lies the difference, may i inquire?" the voice sounded a trifle nettled. "why i should think anyone could understand _that_," was the surprised reply. "mr. stuyvesant is the kind of a man who knows what children are thinking right down inside themselves all the time. they don't have to explain things to _him_ at all. why the day i found baltie he knew just as well how i felt about having him shot, and i knew just as well as anything that _he'd_ take care of him and make it all right. we're great friends. i love him dearly." "whom? baltie?" "now there! what did i tell you? _that's_ why _you_ are _years_ and _years_ older than mr. stuyvesant. he _would'nt_ have had to say 'whom? baltie?' he'd just know such things without having to ask." the tone was not calculated to inspire self-esteem. "hum," answered the man who could easily have told anyone the distance of mars from the earth and many another scientific fact. "i think i'm beginning to comprehend what constitutes age." "yes," resumed jean as she flapped the reins upon baltie who seemed to be lapsing into a dreamy frame of mind. "you can't always tell _how_ old a person is by just looking at 'em. maybe you aren't nearly as old as i think you are, though i guess you can't be far from forty, and that's pretty bad. but if you'd sort of get gay and jolly, and try to think how you felt when you were little, or maybe even as big as the boys back yonder, you wouldn't seem any older to me than mr. stuyvesant." the big eyes were regarding him with the closest scrutiny as though their owner wished to avoid falling into any error concerning him. "think perhaps i'll try it. it may prove worth while," and the professor fell into a brown study while old baltie plodded on and jean let her thoughts outstrip his slow progress. at the other end of her commercial venture lay a reckoning as well she knew, and like most reckonings it held an element of doubt as well as of hope. it was nearly one o'clock when they came to the outskirts of riveredge. the pretty town was quite deserted for it was luncheon hour. when they reached the foot of hillside street, jean said: "this is my street; i have to go up here," and drew up to the sidewalk for her passenger to descend. he seemed in no haste to take the hint, and jean began to wonder if he would turn out a regular old man of the sea. before she could frame a speech both positive and polite as a suggestion for his next move, her ears were assailed by: "bress gawd, ef dar aint dat pesterin' chile dis very minit! what i gwine _do_ wid yo'? jis' tell me dat?" and mammy came puffing and panting down the hill like a runaway steam-roller. professor forbes roused himself from the reverie in which he had apparently been indulging for several moments, and stepping from the phaeton to the sidewalk, advanced a step or two toward the formidable object bearing down upon him, and raising his hat as though saluting a royal personage, said: "i think i have the pleasure of addressing mammy----_blairsdale_." chapter xv the reckoning the descending steam-roller slowed down and finally came to a standstill within a few feet of the professor, too non-plussed even to snort or pant, while that imperturbable being stood hat in hand in the sharp january air, and smiled upon it. there was something in the smile that caused the steam-roller to reconsider its plan of action, rapidly formed while descending the hill, for great had been the consternation throughout the dwelling which housed it, and the cause of all that consternation was now within reach of justice. "mammy blairsdale?" repeated the professor suavely. "mammy blairsdale," echoed that worthy being, although the words were not quite so blandly spoken. "i am glad to make your acquaintance, mammy. i have taken the liberty of escorting this young lady back home. she is very entertaining, and extremely practical, as well as enterprising. i am sure you will find her a successful coöperator. she has done a most flourishing business this morning." "b'isness! b'isness! for de lawd's sake wha' dat chile been at now, an' we all cl'ar 'stracted 'bout her? whar yo' bin at? tell me dis minute. an' yo' ma, and miss constance and me jist plumb crazy 'bout you and dat hawse." the professor attempted to put in a word of explanation, but a wave of mammy's hand effectually silenced him and motioned him aside, as she stepped closer to the phaeton. baltie had instantly recognized her voice and as she drew nearer, nickered. "yas, baltie hawse, what dat chile been doin' wid yo'?" she said softly as she laid her hand upon the old horse's neck. but the more resolute tone was resumed as she turned again to the phaeton, and demanded: "i wanter know wha' yo's been. you hear me? we's done chased de hull town ober fer yo' an' dat hawse, an' yo' ma done teken de trolley fer souf riveraige, kase someone done say dey seed yo' a gwine off dat-a-way. now whar in de name o' man _is_ yo' been ter?" "i've been out to the irving school selling your old _candy_, and your cousins-in-the-lord, over in south riveredge, can _wait_ a while for some. you and connie thought you could fool me with your old talk but you couldn't; i found out _all_ about it. _she_ makes it and _you_ sell it, and now _i've_ sold it--yes every single package--and there's your money; i don't want it, but i've proved that i _can_ help mother, so there now!" and, figuratively speaking, jean hurled at mammy's feet the gauntlet, in the shape of her handkerchief, in which she had carefully tied the proceeds of her morning's sale, a no mean sum, by the way. then, bounding out of the old phaeton, tore up the hill like a small whirlwind, leaving mammy and the professor to stare after her open-mouthed. the latter was the first to recover his speech. "well, really! quite vehement! good deal of force in a small body." "fo'ce! well yo' ain' know dat chile ten years lak _i_ is. she cl'ar break loose some times, an' dis hyre's one ob 'em. but i 'spicioned dat she's done teken dat box o' candy. minit my back turned out she fly wid it. an' sell hit, too? what _yo'_ know 'bout it, sar? is yo' see her?" "i certainly did, and i haven't seen such a sight in some time. she's a good bit of a metaphysician into the bargain," and in a few words professor forbes told of the morning's business venture, and the lively experiences of the young merchant, mammy listening attentively, only now and again uttering an expressive "um-m! uh-h!" when he had finished she looked at him sharply and said: "you know what dat chile' oughter be named? wal, suh, scape-many-dangers would fit her pine blank. de lawd on'y knows what she gwine tu'n out, but hits boun' ter be one ting or turrer; she gwine be de banginest one ob de hull lot, or she gwine be jist nothin' but a little debbil. now, suh, who is _yo'_?" the concluding question was sprung upon the professor so suddenly that he nearly jumped. he looked at the old woman a moment, the suggestion of a twinkle in the eyes behind the big glasses, then answered soberly: "i might be termed a knight errant i presume; i've been guarding a young lady from the perils of the highway." "night errand? 'tain't no night errand as _i_ kin see. can't be much broader day dan tis dis minute," retorted mammy, looking up at the blazing luminary directly over her head by way of proving her assertion. "if you's on a errand dat's yo' b'isness; 'taint mine. but i'd lak ter know yo' name suh, so's i kin tell miss jinny." "is miss jinny the older sister who manufactures that delicious candy?" asked the professor, as he drew his card case from his pocket and handed mammy his card. "no, suh, she's _my_ miss jinny: miss jinny blairsdale; i mean carruth. my mistis. dat chile's mother. thank yo', suh. i'll han' her dis cyard. is she know yo', suh?" "no, i haven't the pleasure of mrs. carruth's acquaintance though i hope to before long. (mammy made a slight sound through her half-closed lips.) my grandmother was a blairsdale." "open sesame" was a trifling talisman compared with the name of blairsdale. "wha', wha', wha', yo say, suh?" demanded mammy, stammering in her excitement. "yo's a blairsdale?" "no, i am homer forbes. my mother's mother was a blairsdale. i cannot claim the honor." "yo' kin claim de _blood_ dough, an' dat's all yo' hatter claim. yo' don' need ter claim nuttin' else ef yo' got some ob _dat_. but i mustn't stan' here talkin' no longer. yo' kin come an' see my miss jinny ef yo' wantter. if yo's kin ob de blairsdales' she'll be pintedly glad fer ter know yo'," ended mammy, courtesying to this branch of the blood royal, and turning to lead baltie up the hill. "thank you. i think i'll accept the invitation before very long. i'd like to know miss jean a little better. good-day mammy _blairsdale_." "good-day, suh! good-day," answered mammy, smiling benignly upon the favored being. as she drew near the house a perplexed expression overspread her old face. she still held the handkerchief with its weight of change; earnest of the morning's good intentions. yet what a morning it had been for her and the others! "i clar ter goodness dat chile lak ter drive us all 'stracted. fust she scare us nigh 'bout ter death, an' we ready fer ter frail her out fer her doin's. den she come pa'radin' home wid a bagful ob cash kase she tryin' fer ter help we-all. _den_ what yo' gwine 'do wid her? smack her kase she done plague yo', or praise her kase she doin' her bes' fer ter mek t'ings go a little mite easier fer her ma?" ended mammy, bringing her tongue against her teeth in a sound of irritation. meanwhile the cause of all the commotion had gone tearing up the hill and into the house where she ran pell-mell into eleanor who had just come home, and who knew nothing of the excitement of the past few hours. constance had gone over to amy fletcher's to inquire for the runaway. jean was on the border land between tears and anger, and eleanor was greeted with: "now i suppose _you_ are going to lecture me too, tell me i'd no business to go off. well you just needn't do any such a thing, and i don't care if i _did_ scare you. it was all your own fault 'cause you wouldn't let me into your old secret, and i'm _glad_ i scared you. yes i am!" the words ended in a storm of sobs. for a moment eleanor stood dumfounded. then realizing that something more lay behind the volley of words than she understood, she said: "come up to my room with me, jean. i don't know what you are talking about. if anything is wrong tell me about it, but don't bother mother. the little mumsey has a lot to bother her as it is." jean instantly stopped crying and looked at this older sister who sometimes seemed very old indeed to her. "_you_ don't know what all the fuss is about, and why mammy is waiting to give me hail columbia?" she asked incredulously. "i have just this moment come in. i have been out at aunt eleanor's all the morning, as you know quite well if you will stop to think," answered eleanor calmly. "then come up-stairs quick before mammy gets in; i see her coming in the gate now. i did something that made her as mad as hops and scared mother. come i'll tell you all about it," and jean flew up the stairs ahead of eleanor. rushing into her sister's room she waited only for eleanor to pass the threshold before slamming the door together and turning the key. eleanor dropped her things upon the bed and sitting down upon a low chair, said: "come here, jean." jean threw herself upon her sister's lap, and clasping her arms about her, nestled her head upon her shoulder. eleanor held her a moment without speaking, feeling that it would be wiser to let her excitement subside a little. then she said: "now tell me the whole story, jean." jean told it from beginning to end, and ended by demanding: "don't you really, truly, know anything about the candy constance is making to sell?" "i know that she is making candy, and that she contrives somehow to sell a good deal of it, but she and mammy have kept the secret as to _how_ it is sold. they did not tell me, and i wouldn't ask," said eleanor looking straight into jean's eyes. "oh!" said jean. "mammy has rather high ideas of what we ought or ought not to do, you know, jean," continued eleanor, "and she was horrified at the idea of constance making candy for money. and yet, jean, both constance and i _must_ do something to help mother. you say we keep you out of our secrets. we don't keep you _out_ of them, but we see no reason _why_ you should be made to bear them. constance and i are older, and it is right that we should share some of the burden which mother must bear, but you are only a little girl and ought to be quite care-free." jean's head dropped a trifle lower. "but since you have discovered so much, let _me_ tell you a secret which only mother and i know, and then you will understand why she is so troubled now-a-days. even connie knows nothing of it. can i trust you?" "i'd _die_ before i'd tell," was the vehement protest. "very well then, listen: you know our house was insured for a good deal of money--fifteen thousand dollars. well, mother felt quite safe and comfortable when she found that mammy had paid the premium just before the house burned down, and we all thought we would soon have the amount settled up by the company and that the interest would be a big help--" "what is the interest?" demanded jean. "i can't stop to explain it all now, but when people put money in a savings bank a certain sum is paid to them each year. the bank pays the people the smaller sum each year because it--the bank, i mean--has the use of the larger amount for the time being. do you understand?" "yes, it's just as if i gave you my five dollars to use and you gave me ten cents each week for lending you the five dollars till i wanted it, isn't it?" "yes, exactly. well mother thought she would have about six hundred dollars each year, and everything seemed all right, and so we came to live here because it was less expensive. but, oh, jean, my miserable experiments! my dreadful chemicals! when the insurance company began to look into the cause of the fire and learned that i had gasoline, and those powerful acids in my room, and the box of excelsior in which they had been sent out from the city was in the room where the fire started, they--they would not settle the insurance, and _all_ the money we had paid out was lost, and we could hardly collect anything. and it was _all_ my fault. _all_ my fault. but i did not know it! i did not guess the harm i was doing. i only thought of what i could learn from my experiments. and _see_ what mischief i have done," and poor eleanor's story ended in a burst of sobs, as she buried her head against the little sister whom she had just been comforting. jean was speechless for a moment. then all her sympathies were alert, and springing from eleanor's lap she flung her arms about her crying: "don't cry, nornie; don't cry! you didn't _mean_ to. you didn't know. you were trying to be good and learn a lot. you didn't know about those hateful old companies." "but i _ought_ to have known! i ought to have understood," sobbed eleanor. "how _could_ you? but don't you cry. i'm glad now i _did_ run away with the box, 'cause i've found a way to make some money every single saturday and i'm going to _do it_, mammy or no mammy. baltie is just as much my horse as hers, and if he can't help us work i'd like to know why. now don't you cry any more, 'cause it isn't your fault, and i'm going right straight down stairs to talk with mother, and tell her i'm sorry i frightened her but _i'm not_ sorry i went," and ending with a tempestuous hug and an echoing kiss upon her sister's cheek, little miss determination whisked out of the room. chapter xvi united we stand, divided we fall it need hardly be stated that mrs. carruth had passed anything but a tranquil morning. indeed tranquillity of mind was almost unknown to her now-a-days, and her nights were filled with far from pleasant dreams. from the hour her old home had burned, disasters had crowded upon her. her first alarm lest the insurance upon her property had lapsed, owing to her inability to meet the premium punctually, had been allayed by mammy's prompt action and all seemed well. no one had given a thought to the conditions of the agreement, and, alas! no one had thought of eleanor's laboratory. indeed, had she done so, mrs. carruth was not sufficiently well informed upon such matters to have attached any importance to it. but one little clause in the policy had expressly prohibited the presence of "gasoline, excelsior or chemicals of any description upon the premises," and all three had been upon it when the house burned; and, fatal circumstance, had been the _cause_ of the fire. such investigations move slowly, and weeks passed before these facts were brought to light and poor mrs. carruth learned the truth. she strove in every way to realize even a small proportion of the sum she could otherwise have claimed, and influential friends lent their aid to help her. but the terms of the contract had, unquestionably, been broken, even though done in ignorance--and the precautions taken for so many years ended in smoke. mrs. carruth had not meant to let the girls learn of it until, if worse came to worst, all hope of recovering something had to be given up. but, several days before, eleanor had found her mother in a state of nervous collapse over the letter which brought the ultimatum, and had insisted upon knowing the truth. mrs. carruth confessed it only upon the condition of absolute secrecy on eleanor's part, for constance was in the midst of mid-year examinations and her mother would not have an extra care laid upon her just then. eleanor had kept the secret until this morning when jean's outbreak seemed to make it wiser to tell the truth, and, if the confession must be made, poor eleanor could no longer conceal her remorse for the mischief her experiments had brought upon them all. she had gone that morning to her aunt eleanor's home to confess the situation to her, and to ask if she might leave school and seek some position. the interview had been a most unpleasant one, for mrs. eleanor carruth, senior, never hesitated to express her mind, and having exceptional business acumen herself, had little patience with those who had less. "your mother has no more head for business than a child of ten. not as much as _some_, i believe. and, your father wasn't much better. good heavens and earth! the idea of a man in his sane senses agreeing to pay another man's debts. i don't believe he _was_ in his senses," stormed mrs. eleanor. "please, aunt eleanor, don't say such things to me about father and mother," said eleanor, with a little break in her voice. "perhaps mother doesn't know as much about business matters as she ought, and father's heart got the better of his good sense, but they are father and mother and have always been devoted to us. i don't want to be rude to you, but i _can't_ hear them unkindly spoken of," she ended with a little uprearing of the head, which suddenly recalled to the irate lady a similar mannerism of her late husband who had been a most forebearing man up to a certain point, but when that was reached his wife knew a halt had been called; the same sudden uplifting of the head now gave due warning. however, eleanor was only a child in her aunt's eyes, and, fond as she was of her, in her own peculiar way, she could not resist a final word: "well, i've no patience with such goin's on. and now here's a pretty kettle of fish and no mistake. you've taken hadyn stuyvesant's house for a year, and of course you've got to _keep_ it, yet every cent you've got in this world to live on is twelve hundred dollars a year. that means less than twenty-five dollars a week to house, clothe and feed five people. i 'spose it can be done--plenty do it--but they're not carruths, with a carruth's ideas. and now _you_ want to quit school and go to work? well, i don't approve of it; no, not for a minute. you'll do ten times better to stay at school and then enter college next fall. _you've_ got the ability to do it, and it's flyin' in the face of providence _not_ to." aunt eleanor might just as well have added, "i representing providence," since her tone implied as much. "now run along home and leave me to think out this snarl. i can think a sight better when i'm alone," and with that summary and rather unsatisfactory dismissal, eleanor departed for her own home to be met by jean with her trials and tribulations. meanwhile mrs. carruth had gone in quest of that young lady, for upon mammy's return from market, jean, baltie and the box of candy had been missed, and the old woman had raised a hue and cry. at first they believed it to be some prank, but as the hours slipped away and jean failed to reappear, mrs. carruth grew alarmed and all three set forth in different directions to search for her. constance going to amy fletcher's home. mammy to their old home, or at least all that was left of it, for jean frequently went there on one pretext or another, and mrs. carruth down town, as the marketing section of riveredge was termed. while there, one of the shopkeepers told her that jean had driven by, headed for south riveredge. upon the strength of this vague information mrs. carruth had 'phoned home that she was setting out for south riveredge by the trolley and hoped to find the runaway. but the search, naturally, was unavailing and she was forced to return in a most anxious state of mind. as she turned into hillside street and began to mount the steep ascent, her limbs were trembling, partly from physical and partly from nervous exhaustion. before she reached the top she saw the object of her quest bearing down upon her with arms outstretched and burnished hair flying all about her. jean had not paused for the hat or coat, which she had impatiently flung aside upon entering eleanor's room. her one impulse after learning of the calamity which had overtaken them was to offer consolation to her mother. the impact when she met that weary woman came very near landing them both in the gutter, and nothing but the little fly-away's agility saved them. jean was wonderfully strong for her age, her outdoor life having developed her muscles to a most unusual degree. "oh, mother, mother. i'm _so_ sorry i frightened you. i didn't mean to; truly i didn't. i only wanted to prove i _could_ help, and now i _can_, 'cause i've got a _lot_ of new customers and made most four dollars. i could have made more if some of the papers hadn't bursted and spilt the candy in the road. we got some of it up, but it was all dirty and i couldn't take any money for _that_, though the boys _ate_ it after they'd washed if off at the hose faucet. it wasn't so very dirty, you know. and now i'm going out there every single saturday morning, and connie and i--" "jean; jean; stop for mercy's sake. what _are_ you talking about? have you taken leave of your senses, child?" demanded poor mrs. carruth, wholly bewildered, for until this moment she had heard absolutely nothing of the candy-making, mammy and constance having guarded their secret well. it had never occurred to jean that even her mother was in ignorance of the enterprise, and now she looked at her as though it had come her turn to question her mother's sanity. they had now reached the house and were ascending the steps, jean assisting her mother by pushing vigorously upon her elbow. "come right into the living-room with me, jean, and let me learn where you've been this morning. you have alarmed me terribly, and mammy has been nearly beside herself. she was sure you and baltie were both killed." "pooh! fiddlesticks! she might have known better. she thinks baltie is as fiery as mr. stuyvesant's comet, and that nobody can drive him but herself. i've been to east riveredge with the candy--" "_what_ candy, jean? i do not know what you mean." "_constance's_ candy!" emphasized jean, and then and there told the whole story so far as she herself knew the facts regarding it. mrs. carruth sat quite speechless during the recitation, wondering what new development upon the part of her offspring the present order of things would bring to light. "and mumsey, darling," continued jean, winding her arms about her mother's neck and slipping upon her lap, "i'm going to help _now_; i really am, 'cause nornie has told me about that horried old insurance and i know we haven't much money and--" "nornie has told _you_ of the insurance trouble, jean? how came she to do such a thing?" asked mrs. carruth, at a loss to understand why eleanor had disobeyed her in the matter. "she told me 'cause i was so mad at her and connie for having secrets, and treating me as if i hadn't the least little bit of sense, and couldn't be trusted. i am little, mumsey, dear, but i can help. you see if i can't, and the boys were just splendid and want me to come every saturday. please, please say i may go," and jean kissed her mother's forehead, cheeks and chin by way of persuasion. it must be confessed that mrs. carruth responded to these endearments in a rather abstracted manner, for she had had much to think of within the past few hours. "please say yes," begged jean. "childie, i can not say yes or no just this moment. i am too overwhelmed by what i have heard. i must know _all_ now, and learn it from mammy and constance. i cannot realize that one of my children had actually entered upon such a venture. what _would_ your father say?" ended mrs. carruth, as though all the traditions of the carruths, to say nothing of the blairsdales, had been shattered to bits and thrown broadcast. "but you'll tell me before _next_ saturday, won't you? you know the boys will be on the lookout for their candy and will be _so_ disappointed if i don't take it." "i can not promise _anything_ now. the first thing to do is to eat our luncheon; it is long past two o'clock. _then_ we will hold a family council and i hope i shall recover my senses; i declare i feel as though they were tottering." mrs. carruth rose from her chair and with jean dancing beside her entered the dining-room to partake of a very indifferent meal, for mammy had been too exercised to give her usual care and thought to its preparation. chapter xvii a family council luncheon was over and mrs. carruth, the girls and mammy were seated in the library; mammy's face being full of solicitude for her miss jinny. mammy could no more have been left out of this family council than could eleanor. "an' you haint got dat 'surance money and cyant git hit, baby?" she asked, when mrs. carruth had finished explaining the situation to them. "no, mammy; it is impossible. i have hoped until the last moment, but now i must give up all hope." "but--but i done _paid_ de prem'ym ter dat little sniffin's man, an' _he_ say we _git_ de money all right an' straight," argued mammy, loath to give up _her_ hope. "i know that, mammy. he told you so in all good faith. it is not his fault in the least. it would have been settled at once, had we not--had we not--" mrs. carruth hesitated. she was reluctant to lay the blame upon eleanor. "oh, it is _all_ my fault! all. if i had not brought those hateful acids into the house we would _never_ have had all this trouble. i shall never forgive myself, and i should think you'd all want to kill me," wailed the cause of the family's misfortune, springing to her feet to pace rapidly up and down the room, quite unconscious that a long feather boa which happened to have been upon the back of her chair, had caught upon her belt-pin and was trailing out behind in a manner to suggest darwin's theory of the origin of man. "my child you need not reproach yourself. you were working for our mutual benefit. you knew nothing of the conditions--" "knew nothing! knew nothing!" broke in eleanor. "that's just _it_. it was my business to know! and i tell you one thing, in future i _mean_ to know, and not go blundering along in ignorance and wrecking everybody else as well as myself. i'm just no better than a fool with _all_ my poring over books and experimenting. after this i'll find out where my _feet_ are, even if my head _is_ stuck in the clouds. and now, mother, listen: since i _am_ responsible for this mess it is certainly up to me to help you to pull out of it, and i'm going to _do_ it, i've spoken to mr. hillard, and asked him about coaching, and he says he can get me plenty of students who will be only too glad if i can give them the time. and i'm going to do it three afternoons a week. i shall have to do it between four and six, as those are my only free hours, and if i can't coach better than some i've known to undertake it, i'll quit altogether." as eleanor talked, mammy's expression became more and more horrified. when she ceased speaking the old woman rose from the hassock upon which she sat, and crossing the room to mrs. carruth's side laid her hand upon her shoulder as she asked in an awed voice: "baby you won't _let_ her do no sich t'ing as dat? cou'se you won't. wimmin folks now-a-days has powerful strange ways, dat i kin see myse'f, but we-all don' do sich lak. miss nornie wouldn't never in de roun' worl' do _dat_, would she, honey? she jist a projectin', ain't she?" mammy's old face was so troubled that mrs. carruth was much mystified. "why mammy, i don't know of anything that eleanor is better qualified to do than coach. and mammy, dear, we _must_ do something--every one of us, i fear. we can not all live on the small interest i now have, and i shall never touch the principal if i can possibly avoid doing so. eleanor can materially help by entering upon this work, and constance has already shown that she can aid also. even baby has helped," added mrs. carruth, laying her arm caressingly across jean's shoulders, for jean had stuck to her side like a burr. "then you _will_ let me go to east riveredge with the candy?" cried jean, quick to place her entering wedge. "we will see," replied mrs. carruth, but jean knew from the smile that the day was won. "i know all dat, honey," resumed mammy, "but dis hyer coachin' bisness. i ain' got _dat_ settle in my mind. hit just pure scandal'zation 'cordin' ter my thinkin'. gawd bress my soul what we-all comin' to when a blairsdale teken ter drive a nomnibus fer a livin'? tck! tck!" and mammy collapsed upon a chair to clasp her hands and groan. then light dawned upon the family. "oh, mammy! i don't intend to become a stage-coach driver," cried eleanor, dropping upon her knees beside the perturbed old soul, and laying her own hands upon the clasped ones as she strove hard not to laugh outright. "you don't understand at _all_, mammy. a coach is someone who helps other students who can't get on well with their studies. who gives an hour or two each day to such work. and it is very well paid work, too, mammy." mammy looked at her incredulously as though she feared she was being made game of. then she glanced at the others. their faces puzzled her, as well they might, since the individuals were struggling to repress their mirth lest they wound the old woman's feelings, but still were anxious to reassure her. "miss jinny, is dat de solemn prar-book truf?" "it surely is mammy. we are not quite so degenerate as you think us," answered mrs. carruth soberly, although her eyes twinkled in spite of her. "well! well! jes so; jes so. i sutin'ly is behine de times. i speck i ain' unnerstan dese yer new-fangled wo'ds no mor'n i unnerstan de new-fangled stoves. if coachin' done tu'ned ter meanin' school marmin' i hatter give up. now go on wid yo' talkin': i gwine tek a back seat an' listen twell i knows sumpin'," and, wagging her head doubtingly, mammy went back to her hassock. "well _two_ of us have settled upon our plan of action, now what are _you_ going to do, connie? you said you were determined to make your venture a paying one. what is your plan?" asked eleanor, turning to constance, who thus far had said very little. "i can't tell you right now. i've had so many plans simmering since i began to make my candy, but mammy has always set the kettle on the back part of the stove just as it began to boil nicely, haven't you mammy?" asked constance, smiling into mammy's face. "'specs i's 'sponsuble fer a heap o' unbiled kittles, dough hits kase i hates p'intedly ter see de blairsdales fixin' ter bu'n dey han's," was the good soul's answer. "our hands can stand a few burns in a good cause, mammy, so don't worry about it. we're healthy and they'll heal quickly," was constance's cheerful reply. "mebbe so," said mammy skeptically. "seriously, constance, what have you thought of doing, dear?" asked mrs. carruth, a tender note coming into her voice for this daughter who had been the first to put her shoulder to the wheel for them all. "well, you let me answer that question day after to-morrow, mumsey? or, perhaps, it may take even a little longer. but i'll tell you all about my simmering ideas when i have had time to make a few inquiries. don't grow alarmed, mammy; i'm not going to apply for a position as motor-girl on a trolley car," said constance, as she laughingly nodded at mammy. "aint nothin' ever gwine 'larm me no mo', i reckons. speck some day i fin' dat chile stanin' down yonder on de cawner sellin' candy an' stuff. mought mos' anyt'ing happen," answered mammy, as she rose from her hassock. "well, if _yo'_-all gwine go inter bisness, i specs _i_ gotter too, so don' be 'sprised ef yo' see me. now i'se gwine ter get a supper dat's fitten fer ter _eat_; dat lunch weren't nothin' but a disgrace ter de hull fambly," and off she hurried to the kitchen to prepare a supper that many would have journeyed far to eat. "children," said mrs. carruth, as mammy disappeared, "whatever comes we must try to keep together. we can meet almost any difficulty if we are not separated, but _that_ would nearly break my heart, i believe; father so loved our home and the companionship of his family, that i shall do my utmost to keep it as he wished. we may be deprived of the major portion of our income, and find the path rather a stony one for a while, but we have each other, and the affection which began more than twenty years ago, when i came north to make my home has grown deeper as the years have passed. each new little form in my arms made it stronger, and the fact that father is no longer here to share the joys or sorrows with us can never alter it. in one sense he is always with us. his love for us is manifested on every hand. we will face the situation bravely and try to remember that never mind what comes, we have each other, and his 'three little women,' as he used to love to call you, are worthy of that beautiful name. he was very proud of his girls and used to build beautiful 'castles in spain' for them. if he could only have been spared to realize them." mrs. carruth could say no more. the day had been a trying one for her, and strength and voice failed together as she dropped upon a settee and the girls gathered about her. jean with her head in her lap as she clasped her arms around her; eleanor holding her hands, and constance, who had slipped behind the settee, with the tired head clasped against her breast and her lips pressed upon the pretty hair with its streaks of gray. for a few moments there was no sound in the room save mrs. carruth's rapidly drawn breaths as she strove to control her feelings. she rarely gave way in the presence of her children, but they knew how hard it was for her to maintain such self-control. it was very sweet to feel the strength of the young arms about her, and the presence of the vigorous young lives so ready to be up and doing for her sake. "come up-stairs and rest a while before supper," said constance, softly. "will you? do, please. we'll be your handmaidens." "yes do, mumsey, dear. i'll tuck you all up 'snug as a bug in a rug,'" urged jean. "and i'll go make you a cup of tea just as you love it," added eleanor hurrying from the room. as mrs. carruth rose from the settee constance slipped her strong arm about her to lead her up to her own room, jean running on ahead to arrange the couch pillows comfortably. presently mrs. carruth was settled in her nest with jean upon a low hassock, at her feet, patting them to make her "go byelow," she said. in a few moments eleanor came back with a dainty little tray and tea service, which she set upon the taborette constance had placed for it, and proceeded to feed her mother as she would have fed an invalid. "do you want to quite spoil me?" asked mrs. carruth, from her nest of pillows. "not a bit of it! we only want to make you realize how precious you are, don't you understand?" said eleanor, kissing her mother's forehead. "there! that is the last bite of cracker and the last drop of tea. now take 'forty winks' and be as fresh as a daisy for supper. come on, jean, let mumsey go to sleep." "oh, please let me stay here cuddling her feet. i'll be just as quiet as a mouse," begged jean. "please _all_ stay; and connie, darling, whistle me to the land o' nod," said mrs. carruth, slipping one hand into constance's and holding the other to eleanor, who dropped down upon the floor and rested her cheek against it as she nestled close to the couch. only the flickering flames of the logs blazing upon the andirons, lighted the room as the birdlike notes began to issue from the girl's lips. she whistled an air from the burgomeister, its pretty melody rippling through the room like a thrush's notes. presently mrs. carruth's eyelids drooped and, utterly wearied by the day's exciting events, she slipped into dreamland upon the sweet melody. chapter xviii "save me from my friends" "miss jinny! miss jinny! wait a minit. dar's a man yander at de back do' dat wants fer ter ax yo' sumpin' he say," called mammy, as she hurried through the hall just as mrs. carruth was leaving the house upon the following monday morning. "what is it, mammy?" asked mrs. carruth, pausing. "he say he want ter see yo' pintedly." mrs. carruth retraced her steps and upon reaching the back porch found mr. pringle waiting to see her. "hope i haven't delayed you, mrs. carruth, but i wanted to see you on a matter of business which might help both of us, you see. ah, i thought--i thought mebbe you'd like to hear of it." "i certainly should like to if it is to my advantage, mr. pringle," replied mrs. carruth, with a pleasant smile for the livery stable keeper, who stood self-consciously twirling his cap. "yes, ma'am. i thought so, ma'am. well it's this: your stable, ma'am, up at the old place, are you usin' it at all?" "not as a stable. it is more like a storehouse just now, for many things saved from the fire are stored there." "could you put them somewhere else and rent the stable to me, ma'am? i'm much put to it to find room for my boarding horses, and the carriages; my place is not big, and i thought could i rent your stable i'd keep most of my boarding horses up there; it's nearer to their owners you see, ma'am." mrs. carruth thought a moment before replying. "i shall have to think over your proposal, mr. pringle. there is a great deal of stuff stored in the stable and i am at a loss to know what we could do with it. however, i will let you know in a day or two if that will answer." "take your own time, ma'am. take your own time. there's no hurry at all. i'll call round about thursday and you can let me know. i'd be willing to pay twenty-five dollars a month for it, ma'am." pringle did not add that the step had been suggested to him by hadyn stuyvesant, or that he had also set the figure. when they were all gathered in the pleasant living-room that evening, she spoke of the matter, ending with the question: "but _where_ can we put all that furniture? _this_ house will not hold another stick i'm afraid; we are crowded enough as it is." for a few moments no one had a suggestion to offer, then constance cried: "mother couldn't we _sell_ a good many of the things? people do that you know. the boyntons did when they left riveredge." "yes, they had a private sale and disposed of many things. they advertised for weeks. i am afraid that would delay things too much." "why not have an auction then? _that_ moves quickly enough. the things go or they _don't_ go, and that is the end of it." "oh, i should dislike to do that. so many of those things hold very tender associations for me," hesitated mrs. carruth. "yet i am sure there are many things there which can't possibly have, mother. that patent washing machine, for example, that is as big as a dining-room table, and mammy 'pintedly scorns,'" laughed eleanor. "and jean's baby carriage. and the old cider-press, and that noah's ark of a sideboard that we never _can_ use," added constance. "and my express-wagon. i'll never play with _that_ again you know; i'm far too old," concluded jean with much self-importance. "i dare say there are a hundred things there we will never use again, and which would better be sold than kept. come down to the place with us to-morrow afternoon, mumsey, and we will have a grand rummage," said eleanor. and so the confab ended. the following afternoon was given over to the undertaking, and as is invariably the case, they wondered more than once why so many perfectly useless articles had been so long and so carefully cherished. among them, however, were many which held very dear memories for mrs. carruth, and with which she was reluctant to part. among these was a small box of garden-tools, which had belonged to her husband, and with which he had spent many happy hours at work among his beloved flower beds. also a reading lamp which they had bought when they were first married, and beneath whose rays many tender dreams had taken form and in many instances become realities. to be sure the lamp had not been used for more than ten years, as it had long since ceased to be regarded as either useful or ornamental, and neither it nor the garden tools were worth a dollar. but wives and mothers are strange creatures and recognize values which no one else can see. the girls appreciated their mother's love for every object which their father's hands had sanctified, and urged her to put aside the things she so valued, arguing that the proceeds could not possibly materially increase the sum they might receive for the general collection. but mrs. carruth insisted that if one thing was sold all should be, and that her personal feelings must not influence or enter into the matter. so in time all was definitely arranged; the auctioneer was engaged and the sale duly advertised for a certain saturday morning. no sooner were the posters in evidence than miss jerusha pike, likewise, became so. she swept in upon mrs. carruth one morning when the latter was endeavoring to complete a much-needed frock for jean, as that young lady's elbows were as self-assertive as herself, and had a trick of appearing in public when it was most inconvenient to have them do so. between letting down skirts and putting in new sleeves mrs. carruth's hands were usually kept well occupied. "morning, mammy," piped miss pike's high-pitched voice, as mammy answered her ring at the front door. "what's the meaning of these signs i see about town. you don't mean to tell me you are going to sell _out_? i couldn't believe my own eyes, so i came right straight here to find out. _where_ is that dear, dear woman?" "she up in her room busy wid some sewin'," stated mammy, with considerable emphasis upon the last word as a hint to the visitor. "well, tell her not to mind _me_; i'm an old friend, you know. i'll go right up to her room; i wouldn't have her come down for the world." "hum! yas'm," replied mammy, moving slowly toward the stairs. too slowly thought miss pike, for, bouncing up from the reception-room chair, upon which she had promptly seated herself, she hurried after the retreating figure saying: "now don't you bother to go way up-stairs. i don't doubt you have a hundred things to do this morning, and i've never been up-stairs in this house, anyway. go along out to your kitchen, mammy, and i'll just announce myself." and brushing by the astonished old woman she rushed half way up the stairs before mammy could recover herself. it was a master coup de main, for well miss pike knew that she would never be invited to ascend those stairs to the privacy of mrs. carruth's own room. mammy knew this also, and the good soul's face was a study as she stared after her. miss pike disappeared around the curve of the stairs calling as she ascended: "it's only _me_, dear. don't mind me in the least. go right on with your work. i'll be charmed to lend you a hand; i'm a master helper at sewing." mammy muttered: "well ef yo' aint de banginest han' at pokin' dat snipe nose o' yours inter places whar 'taint no call ter be _i'd_ lak ter know who _is_. i'se jist a good min' ter go slap bang atter yo' an' hustle yo' froo' dat front door; i is fer a fac'." meanwhile, aroused from her occupation by the high-pitched voice, mrs. carruth dropped her work and hurried into the hall. she could hardly believe that this busy-body of the town had actually forced herself upon her in this manner. she had often tried to do so, but as often been thwarted in her attempts. "oh, _why did_ you get up to meet me? you shouldn't have done it, you dear thing. i know how valuable every moment of your time is now-a-days. dear, dear, how times have changed, haven't they? now go right back to your room and resume your sewing and let me help while i talk. i _felt i must_ come. those awful signs have haunted me ever since i first set my eyes upon them. _don't_ tell me you are going to sell anything! surely you won't leave riveredge? why i said to miss doolittle on my way here, well, if the carruths have met with _more_ reverses and have got to sell out, _i'll_ clear give up. you haven't, have you? but this house must be an awful expense, ain't it? how much does hadyn stuyvesant ask you for it anyway? i'll bet he isn't _giving_ it away. his mother was rather near, you know, and i dare say he takes after her. _do_ you pay as much as fifty a month for it? i said to miss doolittle i bet anything you didn't get it a cent less. now do you? it's all between ourselves; you know i wouldn't breathe it to a soul for worlds." if you have ever suddenly had a great wave lift you from your feet, toss you thither and yonder for a moment, and then land you high and dry upon the beach when you have believed yourself to be enjoying a delightful little dip in an apparently calm ocean, you will have some idea of how mrs. carruth felt as this tornado of a woman caught her by her arm, hurried her back into her quiet, peaceful bedroom, forced her into her chair, and picking up her work laid it upon her lap, at the same time making a dive for an unfinished sleeve, as she continued the volley. "oh, i see just _exactly_ what you're doing. i can be the greatest help to you. go right on and don't give this a thought. i've been obliged to do so much piecing and patching for the family that i'm almost able to patch _shoes_. now _what_ did you say haydn stuyvesant charged you for this house?" the sharp eyes were bent upon the sleeve. "i don't think i said, miss pike. and, thank you, it is not necessary to put a patch upon the elbow of that sleeve as you are preparing to do; i have already made an entire new one. as to our leaving riveredge i am sorry you have given yourself so much concern about it. when we decide to do so i dare say _you_ will be the first to learn of our intention. yes, the auction is to take place at our stable as the announcement states. you learned all the particulars regarding it from the bills, i am sure. if you are interested you may find time to be present that morning. and now, since i am strongly averse to receiving even my most intimate friends in a littered-up room i will ask you to return to the reception room with me," and rising from her chair this quiet, unruffled being moved toward the door. "but your work, my dear. your work! you can't afford to let me interrupt it, i'm afraid. your time must be so precious." "it seems to have been interrupted already, does it not? sometimes we would rather sacrifice our time than our temper, don't you think so?" and a quizzical smile crept over mrs. carruth's face. "well, now, i hate to have you make company of me. i really do. i thought i'd just run in for a little neighborly chat and i seem to have put a stop to everything. dear me, i didn't think you'd mind _me_ a mite. are you going to sell this set of furniture? 'taint so very much worn, is it? only the edges are a little mite frayed. some people mightn't notice it, but my eyesight's exceptional. well, do tell me _what's_ goin'." as though fate had taken upon herself the responsibility of answering that question, the door-bell rang at the instant and when it was answered by mammy, mrs. eleanor carruth stalked into the hall. mrs. carruth rose to greet her. _miss pike rose to go._ if there was one person in this world of whom jerusha pike stood in wholesome awe it was mrs. eleanor carruth, for the latter lady had absolutely no use for the former, and let her understand it. madam carruth, as she was often called, shook her niece's hand, looked at her keenly for a moment and then said: "my stars, jenny, what ails you? you look as though you'd been blown about by a whirlwind. oh, how do _you_ do, miss pike. just going? you're under too high pressure, jenny. we must ease it up a little, i guess. good-bye, miss pike. my niece has always been considered a most amiable woman, hasn't she? i think she hasn't backbone enough at times. that is the reason i happen along unexpectedly to lend her some. fine day, isn't it?" two minutes later miss pike was in close confab with her friend miss doolittle. aunt eleanor was up in her niece's room putting in the neglected sleeve and saying: "if _i'd_ been in that front hall i'll guarantee she would never have clomb those stairs. now tell me all about this auction." chapter xix "an auction extraordinary" "my! just look at them perfec'ly good, new window screens. it _does_ seem a shame to sell 'em, don't it now? they might come in real handy sometime," cried one eager inspector of the collection of articles displayed for sale in the carruths' barn the following saturday morning. that the house for which those screens had been made lay almost in ashes not a hundred feet from her, and that the chances of their ever fitting any other house, unless it should be expressly built for them, did not enter that lady's calculations. "yes, and just look at his elergant sideboard. my! it must have cost a heap o' money. say, don't you think them carruths were just a little mite extravagant? seems ter me they wouldn't a been so put to it after carruth's death if they hadn't a spent money fer such things as them. but i wonder what it'll bring? 'tis elergant, aint it? i'm just goin' ter keep my eyes peeled, and maybe i c'n git it." "why what in this world would you do with it if you _did_? you haven't a room it would stand in," cried the friend, looking first at the huge, old-fashioned, walnut sideboard, that constance had called a noah's ark, and then at its prospective purchaser as though she questioned her sanity. "yes, it _is_ big, that's so," agreed that lady, "but it's _so_ elergant. why it would give a real air to my dining-room, and i guess i could sell our table if both wouldn't stand in the room. we could eat in the kitchen fer a spell, you know, till maybe jim's wagers were raised an' we could go into a bigger house. anyway i'm goin' ter _bid_ on it. it's too big a chanst ter let slip." "yes, it _is_ pretty big," replied her friend, turning away to hide a slight sneer, for _she_ was a woman of discretion. "now, ladies and gentlemen," called the auctioneer at that moment, "may i claim your attention for this most unusual sale; a sale of articles upon which you would never have had an opportunity to bid but for the 'calamity at your heels'--to quote the immortal william." the people massed in front of him, for riveredge had turned out en masse, started and glanced quickly over their shoulders. "but for the tragedy of them ashes these elegant articles of furniture would never have been placed on sale; your opportunity would never have been. alas! 'one man's meat is ever another man's poison.' now what am i offered for this roll of fine japanese matting? yards and yards of it as you see; all perfectly new; a rare opportunity to secure a most superior floor covering for a low figure. what am i bid, ladies and gentlemen?" "one dollar," ventured a voice. "_one dollar!_ did i hear right? surely not. one dollar for at least fifteen yards of perfectly new japanese matting? never. who will do better 'n that? two? two--two--" "two-fifty!" "good, that's better, but it's a wicked sacrifice come now--two-fifty--two-fifty--" "three. three-fifty. four," ran up the bids in rapid competition until seven dollars were bid for the roll. it was bought by the discreet lady. at that moment jean, who had been everywhere, appeared upon the scene. "oh, did you buy those pieces of matting?" she observed. "mother told me to tell the auctioneer not to bother with them 'cause she didn't think there were two yards of any single pattern. i didn't get here in time though, i'm sorry, but i had to stop on my way." "not two yards of any one pattern? why there's yards and yards in this roll. do you mean to tell me 'taint all alike?" "i guess not. it's pieces that were left from our house and all the rest was burned up." just then jean spied constance and flew toward her leaving the discreet lady to discover just what she _had_ paid seven dollars for. on her way she ran into jerusha pike, who laid upon her a detaining hand. "jean, you're exactly the child i want. where is your sister constance? i want to see her. is your mother here?" "no, miss pike, mother didn't come. connie is right yonder. see her?" off hurried miss pike to the tree beneath which constance stood watching the progress of the sale, which was now in full swing; the auctioneer feeling much elated at the returns of his initial venture, was warming up to his work. eleanor, with her aunt eleanor, who was much in evidence this day, was seated behind the auctioneer's raised stand, and thus quite sheltered from observation. "constance carruth, you are the very girl i must see. _you_ can and will tell me what i wish to know, i am sure," cried miss pike, in a stage whisper. "if i can i will, miss pike," answered constance with a mental reservation for the "can." "i want you to tell me what your poor dear mother most values among the things she has here. there _must_ be some treasures among them which she cherishes for sweet associations' sake. name them, i implore you. i have never forgiven myself for the accident which befell that priceless mirror. if i can bid in something here for her let me do it, i beg of you. there is no one else to do it, and _you_ are far too young to be exposed to the idle gaze of these people." "but miss pike, eleanor and----" "no! no! i cannot permit either of you to do this thing. your dear mother would be shocked. _i'll_ attend to it for you, if you will only tell me." "but," began constance, and was interrupted by the auctioneer's voice calling: "_now_, ladies and gentlemen, here is a _fine_ set of garden tools in perfect order." "oh, they were daddy's. that is the set mother felt so bad about selling, isn't it, connie?" broke in jean, who had not been paying much attention to the conversation between her sister and miss pike. "there! what did i say! i was confident of it! _now_ is my opportunity to make reparation. _nothing_ shall balk me." "but miss pike; miss pike; you must not. aunt eleanor----" but miss pike had rushed toward the auction stand. meanwhile eleanor had been saying: "i wish we had not offered that garden set at all. it was father's and mother really felt dreadful about selling it. i fully intended to have it put aside without saying anything to mother, but there was so much to attend to that i forgot it, and now it is too late." "not in the least, _i'll_ bid it in," and rising from her chair, madam carruth prepared to do her duty by her niece. just then miss pike appeared from the opposite direction. "how much am i bid for this garden set? all in perfect condition." "ten cents," replied a strident voice. "scandalous!" cried miss pike. "_i'll_ bid one dollar. it is sanctified by the touch of a vanished hand." "indeed," murmured madam carruth, who could see miss pike, although that lady could not be seen by _her_. "well, i guess _not_. one-fifty." miss pike was too intent upon securing the object to give heed to the speaker's voice or recognize it. "one-seventy-five! one-seventy-five! one-seventy-five! going, going at one-seventy-five." "two-seventy-five!" "ah! that's better. it would be a shame to sacrifice this set for a song. it is no ordinary set of garden implements, but a most superior quality of steel. two-seventy-five; two-seventy-five--" "three! i must have them." the last words were spoken to a bystander, but madam carruth's ears were sharp. "must you? indeed! we'll see." one or two others, who began to believe that a rare article was about to slip from their possible grasp, now started in to bid, and in a few moments the price had bounded up to five dollars. the original cost of the set had been three. then it went gayly skyward by leaps and bounds until in a reckless instant miss pike capped the climax with ten. "well if she wants to be such a fool she may," exclaimed madam carruth. "i could buy four sets for that money and sometimes even sentiment comes too high. i'd save 'em for your mother if i could, but sound sense tells me she can make better use of a ten-dollar bill than of a half-dozen pieces of old ironmongery. that pike woman always _was_ a fool." "gone for ten dollars!" cried the auctioneer at that instant. miss pike's face was radiant. she was about to turn away when jean made her way through the crowd to her side crying: "did you really get them, miss pike? mother'll be so glad. when we were talking about selling these things she almost cried when she spoke about the garden tools and the lamp----" "_what_ lamp, child? oh these heartrending changes! tell me what the lamp is like. if it can be saved i'll save it for her. i can't understand _why_ your sisters permitted the objects, around which the tendrils of your mother's heart were so entwined, to be put up for sale. to me it seems a positive sacrilege." "but mother made them do it. she wouldn't let----and, oh, there's the lamp now. that one with the bronze bird on it, see?" "oh, the tender memories that must cluster about it. i will hold them sacred for her. they shall not be desecrated. stand beside me, child. i shall bid that in for your dear mother." again the lively contest for possession was on, although the sums named did not mount by such startling bounds as in the case of the garden tools. still, more than four dollars had been offered before miss pike, in flattering imitation of a large new york department store, offered $4.99, and became the triumphant owner of it. miss pike had a small income, but was by no means given to flinging her dollars to the winds. so it was not surprising that many who knew her marveled at the sums she was spending for her two purchases. having paid her bill she promptly took possession of her lamp and her case of garden tools and stalked off through the throng of people in quest of constance whom she found talking to a group of schoolmates near the ruins of the old home. "congratulate me! congratulate me! i've saved the treasures from the vandals! i've rescued them from sacrilegious hands. behold! take them to your mother with my dearest love. i had a struggle to get them, for some woman was determined to secure that garden set but _i_ came off victorious. i had to do battle royal, but i conquered. now, my dear, when you go home take them with you. they _did_ come rather high; i had to pay ten dollars for the garden set, but i got the lamp for less than five!--four ninety-nine. but you need not pay me until it is _perfectly_ convenient. don't let it worry you for a moment. i am repaid for the time being in the thought that i secured them for your mother. i knew she would rather pay twice the sum than see them fall into the hands of utter strangers. good-bye, my dear, i must hurry home, for i have been absent too long already." as miss pike departed, constance dropped upon the carriage step, which, being of stone, had survived flame and flood. upon the ground before her lay their own garden set, and stood their own lamp for which her mother would have to return to jerusha pike, fourteen dollars and ninety-nine cents owing to that lady's unbridled zeal. she looked at them a moment, then glancing up at her friends whose faces were studies, the absurdity of the situation overcame her and them also, and peals of laughter echoed upon the wintry air. "who was it that said 'save me from my friends!' connie?" asked a girl friend. constance looked unspeakable things. then bounding to her feet she cried: "well, it's lucky we can return her own money to her, but that settles it. it might have been worse anyway. i've been on the fence for several days without knowing which way to jump. _now_ i do know, and miss pike has given the push. it's been a case of: 'our doubts are traitors and make us lose the good we oft might win by fearing to attempt.' "there, belle, is a quotation to match yours, and bear in mind what i say: i'm going to live up to it. now i'm going home. come on, you people, and help me lug these treasures there," and off the laughing procession set, each girl or lad burdened with some article of the purchases, constance leading the way with the lamp, and all singing: 'doubt thou the stars are fire, doubt that the sun doth move; doubt truth to be a liar, doubt _not_ jerusha's love.' "i don't think i ever shall, but perhaps she has helped in one way, since she has settled _my_ doubts, and the next thing you people hear of me may make you open your eyes. no, i won't tell you a single thing. just wait until next week, then you'll see." chapter xx constance b.'s venture owing to the stirring events at home, jean had not set forth that morning, but the first excitement, incident to the sale of their belongings over, she prepared to drive out to east riveredge, with her box of candies. mrs. carruth entertained some misgivings regarding the wisdom of letting her again pass through mckim's hollow, but a compromise was effected by jean agreeing to take a different road. it made the trip a trifle longer, but was free from dangers, and jean set forth in high feather and bursting with importance. having seen her off, constance flew to her room, and within half an hour emerged therefrom dressed all in soft brown. little brown toque, with a modest brown quill stuck through the folds of the cloth. brown kilted skirt and box coat, brown furs and brown gloves. she looked almost as sedate as a little quakeress, although her cheeks were rosy from excitement and her eyes shone. "mother, i have a little matter to attend to in south riveredge. you won't feel anxious if i am not back before dark will you?" she asked as she paused at her mother's door, on her way down-stairs. mrs. carruth looked at her a moment before replying and wondered if the girl had any idea how attractive she was. then she asked: "am i to refrain from making inquiries?" "please don't ask a single question, for even if i wanted to answer them i couldn't," said constance, as she kissed her mother good-bye. half an hour later she was at the arcade in south riveredge, asking the elevator man to direct her to the office of the superintendent of the building. "room 16, fourth floor," directed the man. so to the fourth floor went constance. opening the door of no. 16, she entered, but stood for a second upon the threshold rather at a loss how to proceed. seated at a large rolltop desk was a man wearing a brisk, wide-awake air which instantly reminded her of her father. gaining confidence from that fact, so often are we swayed by trifles, she advanced into the room, saying: "good afternoon. are you the superintendent of the building?" "i am," answered the gentleman, smiling pleasantly, and rising from his chair. "what can i do for you, young lady?" now that she had actually come to the point of stating her errand, constance hardly knew where to begin. the superintendent noticing her hesitancy said kindly: "won't you be seated? it is always easier to talk business when seated, don't you think so?" and placing a chair near his desk, he motioned her toward it. mr. porter did not often have calls from such youthful business women, and was somewhat at a loss to understand the meaning of this one. constance was not aware that in placing the chair for her he had put it where the light from the window just back of him would fall full upon _her_ face. taking the chair she looked at him smiling half-doubtfully, and half-confidently as she said: "maybe you will think i am very silly and inexperienced, and i know i _am_, but i'd like to know whether you have any offices to rent in this building, and how much you charge for them?" the big eyes looked very childish as they were turned upon him, and mr. porter could not help showing some surprise at the question. he had a daughter about this girl's age, and wondered how he would feel if she were in her place. "yes, we have one unoccupied office on the eighth floor, in the rear of the building. it is divided into two fair-sized rooms and the rental is four hundred dollars a year." constance jumped. "four hundred a year! why that is almost as much as we pay for our _whole_ house! my goodness, isn't that a lot? i had no idea they cost so much. dear me, i'm afraid i can never, never do it," and her words ended with a doubtful shake of her head. "do you object to telling me just what you wish to do and why you need an office?" asked mr. porter kindly. "perhaps i could offer some suggestions. sometimes our tenants like to rent desk room, and if you needed no more than a desk----why----." "but i couldn't use a desk for a counter, could i?" hesitated constance. "that depends upon what the counter had to hold. suppose you tell me. then we will see." the deep blue eyes behind the glasses regarded her very encouragingly. constance's eyebrows were raised doubtfully as she replied: "i'm afraid you will think me very foolish and unsophisticated, and of course i am, but i just _know_ i can succeed if i once get started right. besides i _won't_ give up unless i _have_ to. other girls do things and there is no reason _i_ shouldn't. i know my candy is good, 'cause if it wasn't mammy could not sell it so easily, and--" "candy? are you planning to sell candy? if it's half as good as the candy an old colored woman sells around here you'll sell all you can make. i buy some of her every time she comes here, and my girls ask every day if she has been around with it. it's great candy." as mr. porter talked constance's cheeks grew rosier and rosier, and her eyes danced with fun. of this he speedily became aware, and looking at her keenly he asked: "have you ever eaten any of the old auntie's candy? does she make it herself? i've asked her a dozen times, but i can't get her to commit herself! she always gets off a queer rigmarole about her 'pa'tner,'" ended mr. porter, smiling as he recalled mammy's clever fencing with words. "yes, i've eaten it. no, she doesn't make it; she only sells it. _i_ make it," confessed constance, nervously toying with the ends of her fur collar. "you don't say so! why it's the best candy i've ever tasted. well, really! and you think of opening a _stand_?" concluded mr. porter, a little incredulously, for the girl before him did not seem to be one who would venture upon such an enterprise. "well yes, and no. i want to have a place to sell it here in south riveredge, but i can't exactly have a counter you see, because i am still in school the greater part of the day. so i thought up a plan and--and i want to try it. would you mind if i told you about it?" the sweet voice and questioning look with which the words were spoken would have won the ear of a less interested man than robert porter. more than an hour passed before this plan which had been simmering in the girl's active brain, was laid before the practical business man, and he was amazed at what he afterwards pronounced its "level-headedness." when the conversation ended, constance was wiser by many very sane suggestions made by her listener, and more than ever determined to carry her plan through. "now, young lady, by-the-way, do you mind letting me know your name? we can talk better business if i do. mine's porter." "i am constance carruth," said constance. "carruth? not bernard carruth's daughter?" "yes." "you don't say so! why i knew your father well, little girl, and respected him more than any man i've ever known. he was a fine man. bernard carruth's daughter? well i declare." constance's cheeks glowed more than ever. praise of her father was sweet to her ears. "well, well, bernard carruth's daughter," repeated mr. porter, as though he could not quite make it true. "well, come with me. i've an idea for this candy selling scheme and we'll see what we can do." rising from his chair he led the way to the elevator. upon reaching the main floor he walked to the rear of the building where the stairway was situated. in the alcove made by the box-stairs stood the public telephone switch board and two booths. at the right, close under the stairs, was an empty space too low for the booths, and yet of no use to the operator, since while she might be able to occupy it when sitting at a desk, she was very likely to encounter a cracked crown if she rose too quickly from her chair. all was enclosed with a little wooden railing and well lighted by the electric lights. "now i am wondering if we couldn't rig up a tempting little booth in this unoccupied space. good afternoon, miss willing. how would you like to share your quarters with this enterprising young lady? she has a mighty clever idea in that logical head of hers and i'm going to do my best to help her make it a success. how about _you_?" he ended, making a mental contrast between the strikingly handsome, dark-haired, dark-eyed girl at the telephone booth, whose glances flashed back at him so boldly, and whose toilet would have been better suited to an afternoon function than a telephone booth, and the modest, well-gowned, young girl beside him. "i guess i won't bother her, and i'm sure she won't bother _me_," was the reply which proved the speaker's fiber, and caused constance to look at her and wonder that any one _could_ be so lacking in refinement. little connie had many things to learn in the business world into which she was venturing. but the knowledge would do her no harm. she was well equipped to stand the test. the girl saw the look of surprise and no rebuke could have been keener. with a little resentful toss of her head, for this girl who had so innocently made her aware of her shortcomings, she turned to answer a call upon the 'phone, and constance to listen to mr. porter's words. "now, miss carruth, my idea is this: suppose we have this little space fitted up with attractive cases, and the necessary shelves. it is not very large, but neither is the venture--yet. when it grows bigger we will find a bigger cubby for it. the thing to do now is to find the _right_ one; one where you can make a good show, and be sure of catching your customers, and where the customers are likely to come to be _caught_. i don't know of any place where, in the long run, more are likely to come than to a 'phone booth. what do you think of it?" "it's just _splendid_!" cried constance. "i couldn't have found a better place no matter how long i tried. i'm _so_ much obliged to you, mr. porter." "better wait until you see how it pans out--the booth, not the candy. i can speak for the panning of that," laughed mr. porter, then added: "well, that is step no. 1 taken. now for no. 2, and that is stocking up. have you thought about that?" "yes, i've thought. my goodness! i've thought until my wits are fairly muddled with thinking, but that is the part that bothers me most. i can make the candy easily enough after school hours, and i can manage to send it here, but i'm dreadfully afraid i haven't as much capital on hand as i ought to have to get all the boxes i need. they are very expensive i find. i wrote to two firms who make them, but it seems to me they charged me dreadful prices. perhaps they suspected from my letter that i wasn't much of a business woman," confessed constance, looking frankly into the friendly eyes. mr. porter laughed in spite of himself, then sobering down again asked: "have you time to come back to my office? i would like to make a proposition to you." "why yes, mr. porter, i have time enough," hesitated constance. "but i am afraid i am taking a good deal more of yours than i ought to." "am i not working in the interests of the owner of this building? i'm trying to secure a new tenant for him. what more could i do?" "i don't believe their income will be materially increased by _this_ tenant," answered constance much amused at the thought. "every one counts, you know. but now to business." entering his office with a brisk air, he again motioned constance to the chair by his desk, and asked: "are you willing to discuss all the details with me? you know i do not ask from idle curiosity, i am sure. i am interested; very deeply interested. i want to see this thing succeed. you have outlined your plan and it is all right. all it needs now is a little capital to carry it through successfully. now let us see if we can't _secure_ that." chapter xxi constance b.'s candies "now, miss carruth, tell me the prices quoted for the boxes, and how many you had thought of ordering," said mr. porter, in the voice so encouraging when used by older people to younger. "well, if i order _any_ i suppose i ought to order a hundred," began constance. "one hundred!" echoed mr. porter. "why, little girl, that would not be a flea-bite. you ought to order five hundred at least." "_five hundred!_" cried constance, in dismay. "why, mr. porter, i'm afraid i've hardly enough money to order one hundred at the rate they charge," and she named the sums asked by the firms to which she had written. "bosh! nonsense! that's downright robbery. you let _me_ write to a firm _i_ know of and we'll see what we'll see. and now i'm going to take some stock in this company right off. i'm going to invest one hundred dollars in it to be used as a working capital--there--don't say a word of protest," as constance voiced an exclamation. "_i_ know what i'm up to, and--i love sweets. if you can't pay back in any other way you can keep me supplied for a year. just now you've got to start out in good shape, and there is no use doing things half way. but you haven't asked me what i'm going to charge you for your booth?" concluded mr. porter, with a merry twinkle in his blue eyes. "why i forgot all about the price," said constance in confusion. "oh, dear, how stupid i am." "well, since it is a space we never thought to rent anyway, and couldn't use for anything else if we wished to, suppose we say five dollars a month? i think those are pretty good returns for a cubby. if i do as well in proportion with all the other offices i'll make the owners rich." "i'm afraid it is _very_ low. i think you are only letting me have it so cheap just because you liked father. don't you think i ought really to pay more? i didn't think i could get _any_ sort of a place for _less_ than ten dollars a month," was constance's most unbusinesslike speech. mr. porter looked at the earnest face regarding him so frankly and confidingly, and a very suspicious moisture came into his eyes. rising from his chair he laid his hand kindly upon her shoulder as she arose and stood before him, and said very gently: "don't worry yourself on _that_ score, little girl, and--don't mind it if i _do_ call you little girl; you seem that to me spite of your business aspirations. i am asking you a fair price because i know you would rather feel that you are _paying_ a fair price for what you get, and would prefer beginning your business venture on such a basis. i am also advancing this sum of money because i am confident you will succeed. it is purely a business speculation. i would do it for your father's sake, but i know you would rather i did it upon strictly business principles. i can not lose my money in any case, because if i do not get the actual cash, i know i shall get my sweets--a whole hundred dollars' worth. it fairly makes my mouth water to think of them, and my girls will go wild when i tell them. keep up a brave heart, and, above all, keep that pretty modesty you have, for it will carry you farther than any amount of audacity. it is your best armor. there is nothing a man respects more than a brave and modest woman, my dear. nothing in this world. now, little woman, go home and think up the style and sizes of the boxes you will need and let me know at once. 'phone me early monday morning. design something yourself if you can; it will take quicker. next week i'll have your stall put into shape and you can make your candies and stock up as soon as your boxes come. _then_ we will soon learn whether your faith in your fellow-beings is justified or misplaced. i believe you will find it justified; upon my soul i do; though i have never before seen such a scheme put to the test. now good-bye; good-bye, and god bless you," ended mr. porter, warmly shaking the small gloved hand. "good-bye, mr. porter, and, oh, thank you _so_ much for your kind interest. i feel so brave and encouraged to begin now," cried constance, her eyes confirming her words, and her cheeks glowing. mr. porter accompanied her to the elevator, and with another hearty farewell, sped her upon her way brimful of enthusiasm, and more than ever resolved to carry into effect the scheme which had entered her head many weeks before, and which was now taking definite form and shape. the trolley car seemed fairly to crawl along, so did her desire to reach home and tell of the afternoon's undertaking outstrip its progress. it was quite dark when she alighted and climbed the hill at her home, thinking, as she ascended the steps, how sweet and cheerful the little home looked, for her mother, in spite of the warnings volunteered by some of her friends that some day she would be robbed as the outcome of letting all the world look in upon her, would never have the shades drawn. mrs. carruth always replied: "for the sake of those to whom a glimpse of our cheery hearth gives pleasure, and there are more than you guess, as i have learned to my own surprise, i shall take my chances with the possible unscrupulous ones." and so the window shades remained raised after the lamps were lighted, and many a passer-by was cheered along his way by a peep at the sweet, home-like picture of a gentle-faced woman, and three bright-faced girls, gathered around the blazing hearth, and reading or sewing in the soft lamp-light. "dear little mumsey," said constance, softly, as she paused a moment before crossing the piazza. "your girlie is going to help you keep just such a sweet home forever and ever, and ever." then giving the whistling bird-call by which the members of the family signaled to each other, she went close to the window and looked smilingly in. up bounced jean to fly to the door; eleanor raised her head from the book over which she was, as usual, bent, and nodded; mrs. carruth waved her hand and wafted a kiss. "oh, come in quick, and tell us where you have been, and what you have done," cried jean, opening the door with a whirl. "hello, baby! give me a big hug first," cried constance, and jean bounded into her arms. mrs. carruth had crossed the room to welcome the tardy one, and as soon as she was released from jean's tempestuous embrace, took the glowing face in both her hands gently to kiss the cheeks as she said: "what a bonny, bonny glow the cheeks wear, sweetheart. something very lovely must have happened." "oh, mother, i've had such a perfectly splendid afternoon and feel so brave and proud about it all. let me get my things off and i'll tell you all about it. but is supper almost ready? i'm half-starved? excitement sharpens one's appetite doesn't it? heigh-ho. nornie. what news of the ponies? if you're to be a coach-woman you've got to have some sort of an equine creature to hustle along, haven't you? did you have time to go and see the prospective ones this afternoon? and oh, _how_ did the auction turn out, mother? gracious, what stirring people the carruths are getting to be compared with the common-place, slow-going ones they were." "jean, dear, run out and tell mammy that constance is home, and we will have supper at once. you can tell us all the news at the table, dear." jean flew for mammy's quarters, quite as eager as constance to have the supper served. "mammy! mammy! connie's got back, and she's starved _dead_! mother says have supper right off quick," burst out jean, as she whisked through the butler's pantry. "jes so. whar dat chile been? go 'long back an' tell 'em de supper 'ready an' a waitin', as de hyme book say, an' i got sumpin' dat dat chile pintedly love." "what is it, mammy? what is it?" cried jean, eagerly, as she ran over to inspect the dishes upon the range. "get out! clear 'long! yo' keep yo' little nose outen my dishes!" cried mammy, with assumed wrath, as she pounced upon little miss inquisitive. "yo' go right 'long an' tell her i'se got lay-over-catch-meddlers in hyer an' lessen yo' take keer you'll turn inter one." "fiddlestick!" retorted jean, as she flew back. a few moments later the family had gathered about the delightful supper table and constance was relating the experiences of the afternoon, while first one and then another exclaimed over her venture, mammy crying as she urged her to take another of the dainty waffles she had made especially for her. "honey, what i tol' yo'? ain' i perdic' dat yo' boun' ter hit de tack spang on de right en'? i say dat dem pralines and fudges de banginest candies i ever _is_ see, an' de folks what done buy 'em--huh! my lan' dey fair brek dey necks fallin' ober one an'ner ter git _at_ 'em de minit i sot myse'f on dat ar camp stool. an' now yo' gwine open a boof an' 'splay 'em fer sale? but yo' aint gwine stan' behin' de counter is yo'? yo' better _not_ set out ter do no sich t'ing as _dat_, chile, whilst _i'se yo'_ mammy. no-siree! i ain' gwine stan' fer no sich gwines-on as dat--in a blairsdale. yo' kin hab yo' cubby, as yo' calls hit, an' take yo' chances wedder yo' gits cheated or wedder yo' meets up with hones' folks, but yo' cyant go behin' no counter, an' dats flat. when yo' gwine begin makin' all dat mess o' candy?" "just as soon as i have some boxes to sell it in, mammy, and those i must design. at least must suggest something pretty for the covers." "have a picture of baltie on the cover, connie. he was the first one to take your candies to south riveredge," cried jean, with thoughts ever for the faithful old silent partner. "no, baltie belongs to you and mammy. by-the-way, how did you get on at the school to-day? you haven't told me yet." "just _splendiferous_! the boys bought every bit i took; i mean every bit that was _left_ after professor forbes got all _he_ wanted. he was at the gate when i drove up, and what do you think he did? made me stop until he had bought six packages of fudge and six packages of pralines, and then made me promise always to save them for him. my goodness if that man doesn't have _one_ stomachache," ended this sage young lady speaking from bitter experiences of her own. "jean!" cried eleanor. "well, it's true. twelve whole packages of candy all for _himself_, greedy old thing! and he asked me if i couldn't come _twice_ a week. i told him i guessed not, and if he wanted it oftener than once a week he'd have to come after it. and he said that was precisely what he _would_ do, and to ask my sister to please to have twelve packages for him on wednesday afternoon. _that_ man's teeth will need a dentist just you see if they don't," ended jean with an ominous wag of the head for the sweet-toothed professor, while the rest of the family shrieked with laughter. "what do _you_ suggest for my boxes, mother?" asked constance, when the laugh had subsided. "how about little white moire paper boxes with some pretty flower on the cover?" "pretty, but not very distinctive i'm afraid," said constance, doubtfully. "how about those pretty japanese boxes they have at bailey's?" ventured eleanor. "still less distinctive. no; i must have some design that suggests _me_. don't think me conceited, but i want people to know that the candy is made and sold by a school-girl, who cannot be there to look after her counter, and must trust to their honesty. i've got an idea about my _sign_, but, somehow, i don't seem to be able to get one that is worth a straw for the boxes, yet i've been thinking as hard as i could think." "wait a minit, baby," said mammy, and hurried from the room. she came back in about ten minutes holding a small box in her hand. placing it upon the table before constance, she said: "now, honey, mebbe dis yere idee ob mine ain' nothin' in de worl' but foolishness, but seems ter me ef yo' want distincshumness you's got hit _dar_. i ain' half lak ter let yo' _do_ hit, but dey's _yo'_ candies, so i spec' yo' might as well let folks unnerstan' hit." the box was one which jean had given mammy the previous christmas. it was made of white moire paper with a small medallion in gilt in the left-hand upper corner, the medallion being in the shape of a little gold frame formed of gold beads. originally there had been a colored picture of santa claus's face within it, but over this mammy had carefully pasted a small photo of constance; one taken several years before. in the center of the box was written in gold script "merry christmas," and just beneath that the word "bonbons." "couldn't you have yo' name whar de merry christmas stan' at an' 'candies' whar de bong bongs is?" asked mammy. "mammy, you old dear!" cried constance, springing to her feet to throw her arms about the wise old creature. "you've hit it exactly. why i couldn't have anything better if i thought for a whole year. i'll have some pictures taken right off and the boxes shall be just exactly like this. hurrah for 'constance b.'s candies!' come on mammy, we've got to celebrate the brilliant idea!" and catching the astonished old woman by the arms, constance whirled her off on a lively two-step, whistling the accompaniment, while mammy cried: "gawd bress my soul, is yo' gone stark crazy, chile!" and at length broke away to vanish protesting within the privacy of her kitchen. chapter xxii first steps during the ensuing week it would have been hard to find a busier household than the carruths'. instead of telephoning to mr. porter on monday morning, as he had suggested, constance wrote a long letter saturday evening, giving accurate directions for the boxes, and enclosing a paper design to be sent to the manufacturers. the letter reached him by the early mail, causing him to exclaim: "george, what a level little head she _has_ got! she shall have those boxes before next saturday, if i have to go after them myself. why the idea is simply great!" going to his 'phone he called up mrs. carruth's home. constance had already gone to school, but mrs. carruth answered the 'phone. she was quite as delighted as constance would have been, and promised to deliver the message to her upon her return. when she heard it constance's cheeks glowed. "isn't he a _dear_, mother, to take so much trouble for me? and now i must get _busy, busy, busy_. i've pounds and pounds of candy to make between this and saturday, and i must make it afternoons." "i can not bear to think of you doing this, dear," said mrs. carruth, laying her hand tenderly upon the soft brown hair. "why not, i'd like to know?" cried constance. "because it takes the time you should spend in outdoor exercise. you work hard in school, and that has always seemed to me to be quite enough for any girl to undertake. yet here you and eleanor are about to give up your afternoons for this work and the coaching." mrs. carruth sighed, for it was hard for her to adjust herself to the new order of things in her family. raised upon a large plantation, where she, the only daughter, was her father's idol, for whom everything must be done, and whose every wish must be considered, she shrank from the thought of her girls laboring for their daily bread, or stepping out into the world beyond their own thresholds. her father would have felt that the world was about to cease revolving had _she_ been obliged to take such a step. indeed it would have quite broken his heart, for never had any woman of _his_ household been forced to do aught toward her own maintenance. but times had changed since reginald blairsdale had been laid away in the little burial plot upon the plantation, where his wife had slept for so many years, and his daughter had lived to see many changes take place which would have outraged all his traditions. "now, mother, _please_ listen to me," said constance, earnestly, as she slipped her arm about her mother's waist. "i am _not_ going to give up all my afternoons, and neither is eleanor. as to the exercise, we each have a pretty long walk to and from school mornings and afternoons, and, in addition to that, eleanor will go to her pupils' houses to do her coaching. that gives her a good bit of exercise three afternoons each week, and she has _all_ her saturdays free. i shall give little more than two hours a day to my candy making, and i know you and jean will gladly help me do the packing and tying up. just how i shall send it over, i haven't decided yet; that can be settled later when i send a ton or so each day," laughed constance. "meanwhile mammy will take it over, or _i_ can. only _please_ don't dampen my enthusiasm or worry because i am undertaking this step. i am perfectly well and strong, and i'll promise not to do anything to endanger that health and strength. so smile upon my venture, mumsey, dear, and make up your mind that it _is_ going to be a _great_ success,--because it _is_," ended constance, with a rapturous hug. "you are my brave, sweet girl!" said mrs. carruth, very tenderly. "yes, i'll put my blairsdale pride in my pocket--or rather my hand-bag, since pockets are no longer in fashion, and try to be a full-fledged, twentieth-century woman. now what is the first step?" "the first step is to make my candies before i try to sell 'em. no, the first is to order the stuff sent home to make them of. i'll 'phone right down to van dorn's this minute. i've plenty on hand for this afternoon's candy, but i'll lay in a big supply ahead." the 'phoning was soon done, and then constance hurried to the kitchen where for the two ensuing hours she worked like a beaver. at the end of that time several pounds of tempting sweets were made and ready to be wrapped in paraffin paper. when this was done all was packed carefully into tin boxes to await the arrival of the paper ones. constance surveyed the candy with much satisfaction, as indeed she well might, for no daintier sweets could have been found. turning to the others she cried: "i feel as self-satisfied and self-righteous as though i'd just put a new skirt braid on my skirt, and i don't know of anything that makes one feel more so. if i can make five pounds a day for six days i'd have a pretty good supply on hand for saturday, my 'opening day.' my, doesn't that sound business-like? nornie, don't you wish _you'd_ taken to a commercial rather than a professional life? come on jean, the others will die of envy when they see our candy booth spread and spread until it swallows up all the office space in the arcade," and catching up the saucepan in which she had made her candy, constance began to beat a lively tattoo upon the bottom of it, as an accompaniment to her whistling, as, still enveloped in her big apron, she pranced about the kitchen. jean, also in gingham array, promptly joining in, for jean's resentment had vanished since she had been taken into the girls' confidence and "entered the partnership" as she called it. in a day or two another message came over the 'phone to constance, asking her to call at the arcade, the following afternoon. upon reaching there at three o'clock, she was met by mr. porter, who had been on the lookout for her. "glad you've come, little girl! glad to see you," he said heartily. "come and look at your cubby and tell me what you think of it. _i_ think it great." while he talked mr. porter led the way to the rear of the arcade. as they drew near the stairway, miss willing glanced up, gave an indifferent nod in answer to constance's "how do you do, miss willing?" and turned to her 'phone. miss willing much preferred being the center of attraction beneath the stairs, and was not enthusiastic over the thought of sharing her corner with "one of them big-bugs, as they think themselves." could she have known it, this girl, whom she was so stigmatizing, felt herself a very tiny bug indeed in the world in which miss willing dwelt, and secretly stood in considerable awe of the young lady who could look with so much self-assurance into the eyes of the patrons of her 'phone booth, and smile and joke with old and young men alike. there were always several around the booth. constance wondered why they seemed to have to wait so long to have their calls answered. her own 'phone calls at home were answered so promptly. however, while these sub-conscious thoughts passed through her brain, the more wide-awake portion of it was taking in the changed appearance of her cubby's corner. mr. porter had lost no time and spared no trouble, and the arcade's carpenter to whom he had given instructions to "do that job in shape and mighty quick," had followed those instructions to a dot. there was the cubby, the wood all carefully painted in white enamel, the portable shelves made of sheets of heavy glass. a high railing and gate shut off one end, giving ingress to the proprietor, and privacy if she wished at any time to stay at her counter for awhile. on the lower shelf of the counter stood a little cash box divided into two sections: one for bills the other for silver. just above it was a small white sign upon which was plainly painted in dark blue letters: "constance b.'s candies." take what you wish. leave cost of goods taken. make your change from my cash box. respecting my patrons' integrity, constance b. c. kindly close the door. constance clasped her hands and gave a little cry of delight. all her ideas were so perfectly carried out. "oh, mr. porter, it is perfectly fascinating! how good you are! how am i ever going to pay for it though? i had no idea you were going to so much trouble and expense." "but you don't _have_ to pay for it. every office has to be fitted up for its tenant's needs you know, or he wouldn't rent it. so i had to have your cubby fitted up for yours. now you can stock up as soon as you're a mind to. and, by-the-way, those boxes will be along to-morrow morning. i told them they must hustle, and they have. are your photos ready to paste on 'em?" "yes, they came home last evening; at least six dozen of them did, and the rest will come next week. i'll send them to the box manufacturers for the next lot and they can be put right on there. it will save our time." "good! twelve dozen boxes will be delivered this time, and the rest will be along pretty soon. send your photos to them as quickly as you can. i'm glad you like your cubby." "like it! why i'd be the most ungrateful girl that ever lived if i didn't like it. it's just simply _splendid_! but a whole year's rent won't pay you back i'm afraid." "don't care whether it does or not. mean to make you sign a _five_ years' lease next time. when will you stock up?" "mammy is coming over with me early saturday morning. just think we have already made over twenty-five pounds of candy. i want to have fifty on hand to start with. do you think i'll _ever_ sell it?" and the pretty girlish face was raised to mr. porter's with the most winning of smiles. "little flirt! i wonder if she knows he has daughters as old as _she_ is," muttered the girl at the 'phone. constance was quite unconscious of either look or comment. "of course you'll sell it. mark my word it will go like hot cakes," was the encouraging answer. "i hope so. and thank you again and again for _all_ you have done. good-bye. please tell your daughters what a proud girl you have made me," and the little gloved hand was held toward him. he shook it warmly and walked with her to the front door. as he turned to go back a man who occupied a cigar stand near the door nodded and said with a laugh: "got a new tenant, mr. porter? goin' to let us have another pretty girl to talk to?" "i've got a new tenant, yes, breckel, but, unless i am very much mistaken, you will not talk to her a great deal, and when you _do_ you'll take your hat off, and toss away your cigar. it's a pity we can't have a few more such girls in our business world. it would raise the standard considerably. men would find a better occupation than making fool speeches to them then. mark my word that little woman will succeed." "i'm sure i hope she will if she's the right stuff," answered breckel, the laugh giving place to a more earnest expression and tone of voice, which proved that the man, like most of his stamp, had something good in him to be appealed to. chapter xxiii opening day at last the eventful morning arrived. constance and mammy were astir long before the clock struck six, and the candy kettles were bubbling merrily. constance was pulling her big lump of molasses candy when jean came bounding into the kitchen arrayed in her little night toga. "bress my soul!" cried mammy. "wha' yo' doin' down hyer? kite long back dis minit. does yer want ter kitch yo' deaf cold?" "but connie didn't call me, and i said i'd help," protested jean. "he'p! he'p! yo' look lak yo' could he'p, don't yo'? stannin' dar dressed in nuffin in de worl' but yo' nightie an' yo' _skin_. clar out dis minit befo' i smack yo' wid dis hyer gre't spoon," and mammy made a dive for the culprit as she darted away. a few hours later the candy boxes were in the bottom of the phaeton, constance mounting guard over them while mammy acted as jehu. when the arcade was reached mammy descended from the phaeton, blanketed baltie, and then taking one of the large boxes in which the smaller ones were packed, said: "now honey, yo' tek anodder--_no, not two_ of 'em--dey's too heavy fo' you; i'll come back fo' dose. now walk 'long head ob me, kase i want dese hyer folks what's a-starin' at us lak dey aint neber _is_ seen anybody befo', ter unnerstan' dat i'se _yo' sarvint_, an' here fer ter pertec' yo'. _an' i ain' gwine stan' no nonsense needer._" "you need not be afraid mammy. everybody is just as kind and lovely as possible." "huh! dey'd _better_ be," retorted mammy, with a warning snort. in a short time the little booth made a brave showing with its quarter-pound, half-pound, and pound boxes of candy, each tied with pretty ribbon, and each bearing upon its cover the smiling face of its young maker. when miss willing found a chance to take a sly peep at them she turned her head and sneered as she murmured: "well, of all the conceit. my! ain't she just stuck on that face of hers though." scarcely was all arranged, when mr. porter appeared upon the scene. "just in time to be the first customer," he cried gayly. "how are you this morning? how-de-do, auntie? ah, you see i know your partner now. what all have you got here anyhow?" he continued as he peered into the cases. "pralines, plain fudge, nut fudge, molasses candy, cream walnuts, caramels, butter-scotch. i say! you've been working, little girl, haven't you?" "lak ter wo'k her finges mos' off," asserted mammy. "they're none of them missing, though," laughed constance, holding up the pretty tapering fingers to prove her words. "then give me my candies, quick! i can't wait another minute. you can almost see my mouth water like my old hunting dog's." "which kind will you have mr. porter?" "_all_ kinds of course!" "not really?" "yes, _really_. do you think i'm going to miss any of the treat? biggest boxes, please." constance lifted from the case a pound box of each variety. "how much?" asked mr. porter. "why nothing to _you_? how _could_ i?" she asked, coloring at the thought of accepting more from him. "now see here, young lady, that won't do. you can't begin _that_ way. your business has got to be spot cash. don't forget that, or you'll get into difficulties," said her customer with a warning nod of his head. "as near as i can make out mr. porter, it's just the other way about; i'm getting my cash in advance. now please listen to me," said constance very seriously, an appealing look in her expressive eyes. "you have done a great deal for me in arranging this booth so attractively, and encouraging me in every way. in addition to that you have 'taken stock,' as you call it, in the venture. very well, _i_ call it simply advancing capital. now i shall never feel at ease until that sum is paid off, and one way for me to do it is to let you have all the candy you want. no--wait a minute; i haven't finished," as mr. porter raised his hand in protest. "if you will promise to come to the booth for all the candy you want, i will charge you just the same for it as i charge the others, but it must go toward canceling my obligation _so far as money_ can cancel it. now, _please_, say yes, and make my opening day a very happy one for me. otherwise i shall have to refuse to let you have _any_ candy until i have paid back the hundred dollars. isn't that right and fair, mammy?" she asked, turning to look into the kind old face beside her. "hits jist de fa'r an' squar' livin' truf. hit suah is, massa potah. ain' no gittin' roun' dat. we-all cyant tek no mo' 'vestments 'dout we gibs somepin fer ter mak hit right. miss constance, know what she a-sayin'." the gay bandanna nodded vigorously to emphasize this statement. mr. porter looked at them for a moment, and then broke into a hearty laugh. "i give it up!" he cried. "have it your own way, but if i eat sweets until i lose all my teeth, upon your heads be the blame. it isn't every man who has a hundred dollars worth to pick from as he chooses." "_you_ won't have very long, because i expect to pay back in more ways than just candies," cried constance, merrily. "but you surely don't want _all_ that?" she added, laying her hands upon the seven boxes lying upon the counter. "yes, i do! my soul, if she isn't trying to do me out of my own purchases. here, young lady, give me those boxes. i want them right in my own hands before you have some new protest to put forth," and hastily piling his seven pounds of candy upon his arm, mr. porter fled for the elevator, leaving mammy and constance to laugh at his speedy departure. at length all was arranged, the booth with its array of dainty boxes making a brave display. constance and mammy stood for a moment looking at it before taking their departure, well pleased with the result of their undertaking. then with a pleasant good morning to miss willing, whose eyes and ears had been more than busy during the past hour, they departed, leaving the little candy booth, its cash box, and its very unusual announcement upon the sign which swung above it, to prove or disprove the faith which one young girl felt in her fellow beings. chapter xxiv one month later one month had passed since the eventful opening day. a month of hard, incessant work for constance, mammy and jean, who insisted upon doing her share. it was nearly march, and the air already held a hint of spring. the pussy-willows were beginning to peep out upon the world, and in sheltered spots far away in the woodland the faint fragrance of arbutus could be detected. from her opening day, constance's venture had prospered, and the little candy booth's popularity became a fact assured. up betimes every morning, constance had her kettles boiling merrily and by seven o'clock many pounds of candy were ready to be packed in the dainty boxes. then came jean's part of the work and never had she failed to come to time. true to her word to be a "sure-enough partner," she was up bright and early and had her candies wrapped and packed before her breakfast was touched. mammy and baltie, soon became familiar figures in south riveredge, and many of constance's patrons believed the old woman to be the real mover of the enterprise. how she found time to convey the candy boxes to the booth, arrange them with such care, collect the money deposited there the previous day by the rapidly increasing number of customers, and still reach home in time to prepare the mid-day meal with her usual care, was a source of wonder to all. yet do it she did, and her pride and ambition for the success of the venture rivaled constance's. failure was not even to be dreamed of. no one ever guessed the hours stolen from her sleep by the good soul to make up for the hours stolen from her daily duties, but many a night after bidding the family an ostentatious "good-night, ladies," and betaking herself to her bedroom above stairs, did she listen until every sound was hushed and then creep back to her kitchen and work softly until everything was completed to her satisfaction. friday afternoons and saturdays, constance took matters into her own hands, and she soon discovered that another mode of transportation for her candy would be imperative, so rapidly was the demand for constance b.'s candies increasing. so after the first two weeks the local expressman was pressed into service, and the old colored man, who for years had run the elevator in the arcade, received the boxes upon their delivery. the way in which the old man had scraped acquaintance with mammy, caused mr. porter considerable amusement. mammy's intercourse with the colored people she had met since coming north, had not been calculated to increase her respect for her race. finding "uncle rastus" at the north, she instantly concluded that he had been born and raised there. that, like herself, he might have been transplanted, she did not stop to argue. but one day when mammy was struggling with an unusually large consignment of candy, uncle rastus hurried to offer his services "to one ob de quality colored ladies," as he gallantly expressed it. this led to a better understanding between the two old people, and when mammy discovered that rastus had been born and raised in the county adjoining her own, and that his old master and hers had been warm friends, rastus' claim to polite society was indisputable, and from that moment, mammy and rastus owned the arcade, and the courtly old negro, and dignified old negress caused not a little amusement to constance b.'s customers, and the people who frequented the arcade. it would be hard to tell which grew to take the greater pride in the venture, for rastus had all the old antebellum negro's love and respect for his white folks and mammy lost no opportunity for singing the praises of hers. and thus another member was added to the firm and constance's interests were well guarded. not once since launching upon her venture had constance met with any loss. the little cash box invariably held the correct amount to balance the number of boxes taken from the booth, and the returns surprised constance more than anyone else. "i tell you i'm going to be a genuine business woman, see if i'm not," she cried, after balancing her accounts one saturday evening. "why just think of it mumsey, dear, here are fifteen dollars over and above _all_ expenses for the week. if i continue like this i'll be a million_nairess_ before i know what has happened. how are you flourishing, nornie? are your pegasus ponies as profitable?" "not quite, but i'm hopeful," laughed eleanor. "some of them are spavined in their minds, i fear. at any rate they don't 'arrive' as quickly as i'd like to have them in spite of all my efforts. however, they are not going backward, and i dare say that ought to gratify me, especially when they are willing to pay me two dollars an hour for helping them to stand _still_. i can't make such a showing from driving my coach as you can make from wielding your big spoon, connie dear, but ten dollars added to your fifteen will keep the wolf from the door, won't it little mother?" ended eleanor, laying her hand upon her mother's shoulder. mrs. carruth rested her cheek upon it as she replied: "what should i do without my girls? i am _so_ proud of my girls! so proud!--yet i cannot realize it all." "you haven't got to do without us. we're here to be done _with_, aren't _we_, nornie?" cried constance, gayly. "we certainly _are_," was the hearty response. "then why don't you add my part?" demanded jean, who had faithfully made her journeys to the irving school each saturday morning, and upon each occasion returned triumphant with her candy box empty, but her little coin bag well filled with dimes, for her customers were always on the lookout for her. "i have, honey. it is all included in the amounts set down here," answered constance. "yes, but i want to know just which part of it is mine. how much did i sell last saturday and how much to-day?" persisted jean. "twenty-five packages last saturday and eighteen this. forty-three in all. four dollars and thirty cents in two weeks, and four dollars in your first two weeks. eight dollars and thirty cents all told, little girl. two dollars seven and a half cents a week. i call that pretty good for a ten-year-old business woman, don't you, mumsey, dear?" "i call it truly wonderful," was mrs. carruth's warm reply. "what do _you_ think of it, mammy?" cried constance. "aren't we here to be done with after that showing?" "done wid _what_?" promptly demanded mammy, who had no intention of committing herself before becoming fully informed of all the facts. "done _everything_ with. made use of. worked for all there is in us. made to pay for ourselves. isn't that right, mammy? say 'yes' right off. say 'yes' mammy, because that's why we are big, and young, and strong, and happy, and anxious to prove that we are the 'banginest chillern' that _ever_ were. you've said so hundreds of times, you know you have, so don't try to go back on it now. aren't we _just right_, mammy? successful business women and a firm of which you are proud to be a member? the carruth corporation, _bound_ to succeed because, unlike other corporations, it has a _soul_, yes, _four_ of 'em, and can prove that a corporation with four souls can outstrip any other ever associated. _mine's_ as light as a feather this minute, so let's prance," ended constance, springing toward mammy, to catch her hardened hands in her own warm ones, and give a beckoning nod to jean and eleanor, who were quick to take her hint. the next instant a circle was formed around mrs. carruth's chair, the girls singing in voices that made the room ring. "mammy, dear, listen here, isn't this a lark? every day, work and play, and each to do her part." while poor old mammy sputtered and protested as she pounded around with them willy-nilly. "bangin'est chillern! _bangin'est_ chillern! huh! i reckons you _is_! huh! let me go dis _minit_! miss jinny! miss jinny! please ma'am, make 'em quit. make 'em let loose ob me! dar! you hear dat? eben baltie heer yo'in' holler. bres gawd, i believes he's 'fronted kase he lef' outen de cop'ration. dat's hit! he's sure _is_. let me go dis minit, i say. he gotter be part ob it," and giving a final wrench from the detaining hands, mammy rushed away crying in answer to old baltie's neigh, which had reached her ears from his stable: "yas, yas, baltic hawse, mammy done heard yo' a-callin' an' she's a-comin'; comin' to passify yo' hurt feelin's case you's been left outen de cop'ration. comin', honey, comin'." about this book: original publication data: title: three little women, a story for girls author: gabrielle e. jackson publisher: john c. winston company copyright: 1913, by john c. winston company 