nelson's home comforts. thirteenth edition. revised and enlarged by mary hooper, author of "little dinners," "every-day meals," "cookery for invalids," _etc. etc._ [illustration: decoration] london: g. nelson, dale & co., limited, 14, dowgate hill. 1892. any of nelson's specialities mentioned in this book _may be obtained from_ |--------------------------| | | | w. chaplin & sons, | | 19 & 20, waterloo place, | | southampton. | | | |please send, s.w.r. | |--------------------------| they are also sold by grocers, chemists, italian warehousemen, etc., throughout the world. should any difficulty be experienced in obtaining them, kindly send the name and address of your grocer, and we will at once communicate with him. [illustration: trade mark.] *** g. nelson, dale, & co., ltd., 14, dowgate hill, london. nelson's specialities. *** patent opaque gelatine. in packets, from 6d. to 7s. 6d. citric acid. in 3d. packets. for use with the gelatine. essence of lemon, almonds, & vanilla. in graduated bottles, 8d. family jelly boxes. 7s. 6d. each. containing sufficient of the above materials for 12 quarts of jelly. bottled wine jellies (concentrated). calf's foot, lemon, sherry, port, orange, and cherry. quarts, 2s. 6d.; pints, 1s. 4d.; half-pints, 9d. tablet jellies. orange, lemon, calf's foot, cherry, raspberry, vanilla, port, sherry, etc. quarts, 9d.; pints, 6d.; half-pints, 3d. wine tablet jellies. port, sherry, orange. pints only, 9d. patent refined isinglass. in 1s. packets. gelatine lozenges. liquorice lozenges. in ornamental tins, 6d. jelly-jubes. a most agreeable and nourishing sweetmeat. extract of meat. for soups, gravies, etc. in ounce packets, 4d. pure beef tea. in half-pint packets, 6d. soups. beef and carrots } beef and celery } in pint packets, beef and onions } 6d. each. mulligatawny } beef, peas, and vegetables } in quart packets, beef, lentils, and vegetables } 6d. each. penny packets of soup for charitable purposes. egg albumen. for clearing jelly or soup. in boxes containing 12 packets, 9d. per box. *** g. nelson, dale, & co., ltd., 14, dowgate hill, london. little dinners, how to serve them with elegance and economy. by mary hooper. _twenty-second edition. crown 8vo, cloth, price 2s. 6d._ "shows us how to serve up a 'little dinner,' such as a philosopher might offer a monarch--good, varied, in good taste, and cheap. exactly what the young english wife wishes to know, and what the ordinary cookery book does not teach her."--_queen._ *** every-day meals, being economic and wholesome recipes for plain dinners, breakfasts, luncheons, and suppers. by mary hooper. _eighth edition. crown 8vo, cloth, price 2s. 6d._ "our already deep obligations to miss hooper are weightily increased by this excellent and practical little book. the recipes for little dishes are excellent, and so clearly worded that presumptuous man instantly believes, on reading them, that he could descend into the kitchen and 'toss up' the little dishes without any difficulty."--_spectator._ *** cookery for invalids, for persons of delicate digestion, and for children. by mary hooper. _sixth edition. crown 8vo, cloth, price 2s. 6d._ "an epicure might be content with the little dishes provided by miss hooper; but, at the same time, the volume fills the utmost extent of promise held out in the title-page."--_pall mall gazette._ *** london: kegan paul, trench, & co. contents. *** page preface 7 bottled jellies 7 tablet jellies 8 lemon sponge 9 citric acid and pure essence of lemon 9 pure essence of almonds and vanilla 9 gelatine lozenges 9 jelly-jubes 10 licorice lozenges 10 albumen 10 extract of meat 10 soups 11 beef tea 12 new zealand mutton 12 tinned meats 12 gelatine 13 soups 14 little dishes of fish 22 little dishes of meat 31 puddings 50 jellies 61 creams 74 cakes 85 beverages 93 macaroni, etc. 98 hints on housekeeping 105 new zealand frozen mutton 119 index 121 nelson's home comforts. *** preface. in presenting our friends and the public with the thirteenth edition of our "home comforts," we have the pleasure to remark that so greatly has the book been appreciated, that the large number of five hundred thousand copies has been called for. the value of the jubilee edition was enhanced by some new recipes; these are repeated in the present edition, to which, also, some valuable additions have been made. since the introduction of our gelatine by the late mr. g. nelson, more than fifty years ago, we have considerably enlarged our list of specialities, and we have gratefully to acknowledge the public favour accorded to us. among those of our preparations which have met with so much appreciation and success, we would cite the following: nelson's bottled jellies.--it is sometimes so difficult, if not impossible, to have a first-class jelly made in private kitchens, that we venture to think our bottled jellies will be highly appreciated by all housekeepers. it is not too much to say that a ready-made jelly of the highest quality, and of the best and purest materials, requiring only the addition of hot water, is now, for the first time, supplied. careful experiments, extending over a long period of time, have been required to bring this excellent and very useful preparation to its present state of perfection, and it is confidently asserted that no home-made jelly can surpass it in purity, brilliancy, or delicacy of flavour. all that is necessary to prepare the jelly for the table is to dissolve it by placing the bottle in hot water, and then to add the given quantity of water to bring it to a proper consistency. it is allowed to stand until on the point of setting, and is then put into a mould. nelson's calf's foot, lemon, port, sherry, orange, and cherry jellies are now to be had of all first-class grocers, and are put up in bottles each containing sufficient of the concentrated preparation to make a quart, pint, or half-pint. nelson's tablet jellies are recommended for general use, are guaranteed of the purest and best materials, and are flavoured with the finest fruit essences. the tablet jellies are of so moderate a price as to be within the reach of all classes, and can be used as an every-day addition to the family bill of fare. they are not, however, intended as a substitute for high-class jellies, whether bottled or home-made. the tablet jellies used as directed in the recipes make, in a few minutes, creams of a most delicate kind, remarkable for smoothness of texture and fine flavour. nelson's port, sherry, and orange wine tablet jellies have now been added to the list. nelson's lemon sponge, supplied in tins, is a delicious novelty, and will be found to surpass any that can be made at home. nelson's citric acid and pure essence of lemon.--in order to save the trouble of putting jelly through a strainer when required for invalids, we have introduced our citric acid and essence of lemon, and by their use a jelly clear enough for all ordinary purposes is made in a few minutes. lemonade and other beverages can be quickly made, and with less expense than by any other method, by using nelson's citric acid and essence of lemon, and for these recipes are given. delicious beverages are also made with nelson's bottled jellies, see page 93. nelson's pure essence of almonds and vanilla.--these extracts, like the essence of lemon, will be found of superior strength and flavour, and specially adapted for the recipes in this book. nelson's gelatine lozenges are not only a delicious sweetmeat, but most useful as voice lozenges, or in cases of sore or irritable throat. the flavour is very delicate and refreshing. dissolved in water they make a useful beverage, and also a jelly suitable for children and invalids. nelson's jelly-jubes will be found most agreeable and nourishing sweetmeats, deliciously flavoured with fruit essences. they can be used as cough lozenges, will be found soothing for delicate throats, are useful for travellers, and may be freely given to children. nelson's licorice lozenges are not only a favourite sweetmeat, but in cases of throat irritation and cough are found to be soothing and curative. nelson's albumen is the white of eggs carefully dried and prepared, so that it will keep for an indefinite length of time. it is useful for any purpose to which the white of egg is applied, and answers well for clearing soup and jelly. when required for use, the albumen is soaked in cold water and whisked in the usual way. nelson's extract of meat.--the numerous testimonials which have been received as to the excellence of this preparation, as well as the great and universal demand for it, have afforded the highest satisfaction to us as the manufacturers, and have enabled us to offer it with increased confidence to the public. it is invaluable, whether for making soup or gravy, or for strengthening or giving flavour to many dishes; and it is not only superior to, but far cheaper than, any similar preparation now before the public. now that clear soup is so constantly required, and a thing of every-day use, nelson's extract of meat will be found a great boon. with the addition of a little vegetable flavouring, a packet of the extract will make a pint of soup as good and as fine as that produced, at much labour and expense, from fresh meat. with a judicious use of the liquor derived from boiling fowls, rabbits, and fresh meat, an endless variety of soup may be made, by the addition of nelson's extract of meat. some recipes are given by which first-class soups can be prepared in a short time, at a very small cost, and with but little trouble. it may be as well to say that soaking for a few minutes in cold water facilitates the solution of the extract of meat. nelson's soups are deserving of the attention of every housekeeper, for they combine all the elements of good nourishment, have an excellent flavour, both of meat and vegetables, are prepared by merely boiling the contents of a packet for fifteen minutes, and are so cheap as to be within everybody's means. penny packets of these soups, for charitable purposes, will be found most useful and nourishing. those who have to cater for a family know how often a little soup will make up a dinner that would otherwise be insufficient; yet because of the time and trouble required in the preparation, it is impossible to have it. in a case like this, or when a supplementary dish is unexpectedly required, nelson's soups are most useful. although these soups are all that can be desired, made with water according to the directions given with each packet, they can be utilised with great advantage for strengthening household stock. for instance, the liquor in which a leg of mutton has been boiled, or of pork, if not too salt, can be at once, by using a packet or two of nelson's soup, converted into a delicious and nourishing soup, and at a cost surprisingly small. or the bones of any joint can be made into stock, and, after all the fat has been skimmed off, have a packet of nelson's soup added, in the same manner as in the directions. nelson's beef tea will be found of the highest value, supplying a cup of unequalled nourishment, combining all the constituents of fresh beef. no other preparation now before the public contains that most important element, albumen, in a soluble form, as well as much of the fibrin of the meat. this beef tea is also generally relished by invalids, and merely requires to be dissolved in boiling water. new zealand mutton.--for information respecting this meat, and the great advantage as well as economy of its use, see page 119. nelson's tinned meats, known as the "tomoana brand," are prepared at the works of nelson bros., limited, hawke's bay, new zealand, from the finest cattle of the country. messrs. nelson specially recommend their "pressed mutton and green peas," "haricot mutton," and "pressed corned mutton." the "stewed kidneys" will be found of a quality superior to any articles of the kind now in the market, while the price places them within the reach of all classes of consumers. nelson's gelatine having now been favourably known all over the world for more than half a century, it is unnecessary to do more than observe that our efforts are constantly directed to supplying a perfectly pure article, always of the same strength and quality. when russian isinglass was first introduced into this country, the prejudices against its use on the part of our great-grandmothers were violent and extreme; for those worthy ladies would not believe that some unfamiliar substance, of the origin of which they were either ignorant or doubtful, could form an efficient substitute for the well-known calves' feet and cow-heels, from which they had always been in the habit of making their jellies and blanc-manges. by degrees, however, the gelatine made its way, and at length superseded the old system entirely; and its popularity is demonstrated by the fact that the works at emscote, near warwick, cover nearly five acres. * * * * * n.b.--it is necessary to call attention to the fact that in all the following recipes in which nelson's gelatine and specialities are used, the quantities are calculated for _their manufactures only_, the quality and strength of which may be relied upon for uniformity. nelson's home comforts. *** soups. *** beef and onion soup. a pint of very good soup can be made by following the directions which accompany each tin of nelson's beef and onion soup, viz. to soak the contents in a pint of cold water for fifteen minutes, then place over the fire, stir, and boil for fifteen minutes. it is delicious when combined with a tin of nelson's extract of meat, thus producing a quart of nutritious and appetising soup. nelson's mulligatawny soup. soaked in cold water for a quarter of an hour, and then boiled for fifteen minutes, nelson's mulligatawny soup is very appetising and delicious. it should be eaten with boiled rice; and for those who like the soup even hotter than that in the above preparation, the accompanying rice may be curried. in either case the rice should be boiled so that each grain should be separate and distinct from the rest. beef, lentil, and vegetable soup. pour one quart of boiling water upon the contents of a tin of nelson's soup of the above title, stirring briskly. the water must be boiling. a little seasoning of salt and pepper may be added for accustomed palates. this soup is perfectly delicious if prepared as follows: cut two peeled onions into quarters, tie them in a muslin bag, and let the soup boil for twenty minutes with them. take out the bag before serving the soup. beef, pea, and vegetable soup. the directions printed on each packet of nelson's beef, pea, and vegetable soup produce a satisfactory soup, but even this may be improved by the addition of the contents of a tin of nelson's extract of meat and a handful of freshly-gathered peas. it is perhaps not generally known that pea-pods, usually thrown away as useless, impart a most delicious flavour to soup if boiled fast for two or three hours in a large saucepan, strained, and the liquor added to the soup, stock, or beef tea. beef tea as a solid. soak the contents of a tin of nelson's beef tea in a gill of water for ten minutes. add to this the third of an ounce packet of nelson's gelatine, which has been soaked for two or three hours in half-a-pint of cold water. put the mixture in a stewpan, and stir until it reaches boiling-point. then put it into a mould which has been rinsed with cold water. when thoroughly cold, this will turn out a most inviting and extremely nutritious dish. clear vermicelli soup. boil two minced onions in a quart of the liquor in which a leg of mutton has been boiled, skim well, and when the vegetables are tender strain them out. pass the soup through a napkin, boil up, skim thoroughly, and when clear add the contents of a tin of nelson's extract of meat, stirring until dissolved. boil two ounces of vermicelli paste in a pint of water until tender. most shapes take about ten minutes. take care that the water boils when you throw in the paste, and that it continues to do so during all the time of cooking, as that will keep the paste from sticking together. when done, drain it in a strainer, put it in the tureen, and pour the soup on to it. soup julienne. wash and scrape a large carrot, cut away all the yellow parts from the middle, and slice the red outside of it an inch in length, and the eighth of an inch thick. take an equal quantity of turnip and three small onions, cut in a similar manner. put them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a pinch of powdered sugar; stir over the fire until a nice brown colour, then add a quart of water and a teaspoonful of salt, and let all simmer together gently for two hours. when done skim the fat off very carefully, and ten minutes before serving add the contents of a tin of nelson's extract of meat, and a cabbage-lettuce cut in shreds and blanched for a minute in boiling water; simmer for five minutes and the soup will be ready. many cooks, to save time and trouble, use the preserved vegetables, which are to be had in great perfection at all good italian warehouses. brown rabbit soup clear. fry a quarter of a pound of onions a light brown; mince a turnip and carrot and a little piece of celery; boil these until tender in three pints of the liquor in which a rabbit has been boiled, taking care to remove all scum as it rises; strain them out, and then pass the soup through a napkin. the soup should be clear, or nearly so, but if it is not, put it in a stewpan, boil and skim until bright; then throw in the contents of a tin of nelson's extract of meat, soaked for a few minutes; stir until dissolved; add pepper and salt to taste. hare soup. half roast a hare, and, having cut away the meat in long slices from the backbone, put it aside to make an _entrã©e_. fry four onions; take a carrot, turnip, celery, a small quantity of thyme and parsley, half-a-dozen peppercorns, a small blade of mace, some bacon-bones or a slice of lean ham, with the body of the hare cut up into small pieces; put all in two quarts of water with a little salt. when you have skimmed the pot, cover close and allow it to boil gently for three hours, then strain it; take off every particle of fat, and having allowed the soup to boil up, add the contents of a tin of nelson's extract of meat, and thicken it with a dessertspoonful of potato-flour; stir in two lumps of sugar, a glass of port wine, and season if necessary. mulligatawny soup. english cooks generally err in making both mulligatawny and curries too hot. it is impossible to give the exact quantity of the powder, because it varies so much in strength, and the cook must therefore be guided by the quality of her material. mulligatawny may be made cheaply, and be delicious. the liquor in which meat or fowl has been boiled will make a superior soup, and fish-liquor will answer well. slice and fry brown four onions, quarter, but do not peel, four sharp apples; boil them in three pints of stock until tender, then rub through a sieve to a pulp. boil this up in the soup, skimming well; add the contents of a tin of nelson's extract of meat, and stir in two ounces of flour and the curry-powder, mixed smooth in half-a-pint of milk. any little pieces of meat, fowl, game, or fish may be added as an improvement to the soup. just before serving taste that the soup is well-flavoured; add a little lemon-juice or vinegar. thin mulligatawny soup. to a quart of the liquor in which a fresh haddock has been boiled, add half-a-pint of water in which onions have been boiled. stir into this, after it has been skimmed, and whilst boiling, the contents of a tin of nelson's extract of meat, and a teaspoonful of curry-powder; let it boil up; add the juice of half a lemon and serve. brown artichoke soup. wash, peel, and cut into slices about half-an-inch thick two pounds of jerusalem artichokes. fry them in a little butter until brown; fry also brown half-a-pound of sliced onions. put these to boil in two quarts of water with two turnips, a carrot sliced, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and one of pepper. when the vegetables are tender drain the liquor, set it aside to cool, and remove all fat. pass the vegetables through a fine sieve to a nice smooth _purã©e_. those who possess a kent's "triturating strainer" will be able to do this much more satisfactorily, both as regards time and results, than by the old way of rubbing through a sieve. put the liquor on to boil, dissolve in it--according to the strength the soup is required to be--the contents of one or two tins of nelson's extract of meat, then add the vegetable _purã©e_, a lump or two of sugar, and if required, salt and pepper. let it boil up and serve. turtle soup. this soup is so often required for invalids, as well as for the table, that an easy and comparatively inexpensive method of preparing it cannot fail to be acceptable. nelson's beef tea or extract of meat will be used instead of fresh beef, and bellis's sun-dried turtle instead of live turtle. if convenient it is desirable to soak the dried turtle all night, but it can be used without doing so. put it on to boil in the water in which it was soaked, in the proportion of one quart with a teaspoonful of salt to a quarter of a pound of the turtle. add two or three onions peeled and quartered, a small bit of mace and sliced lemon-peel, and simmer gently for four or five hours, or until the turtle is tender enough to divide easily with a spoon. stock of any kind may be used instead of water, and as the liquid boils away more should be added, to keep the original quantity. herbs for the proper flavouring of the turtle soup are supplied by bellis; these should be put in about an hour before the turtle is finished, and be tied in muslin. when done take out the turtle and divide it into neat little pieces; strain the liquor in which it was cooked, and having boiled it up, stir in the contents of two tins of nelson's extract of meat, previously soaked for a few minutes. mix smooth in a gill of cold water a teaspoonful of french potato-flour and of vienna flour, stir into the soup, and when it has thickened put in the turtle meat; let it get hot through, add a wine-glassful of sherry, a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, and salt and pepper to taste, and serve at once. it is necessary to have "bellis's sun-dried turtle," imported by t. k. bellis, jeffrey's square, st. mary axe, london (sold in boxes), for this soup, because it is warranted properly prepared. an inferior article, got up by negroes from turtle found dead, is frequently sold at a low price; but it is unnecessary to say it is not good or wholesome. mock turtle soup. this, like real turtle soup, can be made of nelson's extract of meat and bellis's mock turtle meat. boil the contents of a tin of this meat in water or stock, salted and flavoured with vegetables and turtle herbs, until tender. finish with nelson's extract of meat, and as directed for turtle soup. gravy. for roast meat, merely dissolve, after a little soaking, a tin of nelson's extract of meat in a pint of boiling water. for poultry or game, fry two onions a light brown, mince a little carrot and turnip, put in half a teaspoonful of herbs, tied in muslin, and boil until tender, in a pint of water. strain out the herbs, let the liquor boil up, stir in the contents of a tin of nelson's extract of meat, and if the gravy is required to be slightly thickened, add a small teaspoonful of potato-flour mixed smooth in cold water. for cutlets or other dishes requiring sharp sauce, make exactly as above, and just before serving add a little of any good piquant sauce, or pickles minced finely. glaze. soak in a small jar the contents of a tin of nelson's extract of meat in rather less than a gill of cold water. set the jar over the fire in a saucepan with boiling water, and let the extract simmer until dissolved. this is useful for strengthening soups and gravies, and for glazing ham, tongues, and other things. little dishes of fish. *** the recipes we are now giving are suitable for dinner, supper, or breakfast dishes, and will be found especially useful for the latter meal, as there is nothing more desirable for breakfast than fish. we are constantly told that it is not possible to have fresh fish for breakfast, because it cannot be kept all night in the home larder. but we must insist that there is no greater difficulty in keeping fish than meat. indeed, there is perhaps less difficulty, because fish can be left lying in vinegar, if necessary, whereas in the case of meat it cannot always be done. we will suppose that it is necessary to use strict economy. it is as well to proceed on that supposition, because people can always be lavish in their expenditure, whereas it is not so easy to provide for the household at once well and economically. in many neighbourhoods fish is sold much cheaper late in the day than in the morning, and in this case the housekeeper who can buy overnight for the use of the next day has a great advantage. suppose you get the tail of a cod weighing three pounds, as you frequently may, at a very small price in the evening, and use a part of it stuffed and baked for supper, you can have a dish of cutlets of the remainder for breakfast which will be very acceptable. we do not mean a dish of the cold remains, but of a portion of the fish kept uncooked, as it easily may be, as we have before said, by dipping it in vinegar. or, you get mackerel. nothing is better than this fish treated according to the recipe we give. even so delicate a fish as whiting may, by a little management with vinegar, be kept perfectly well from one day to the other. skinned whiting has very little flavour, and although when skilfully cooked in the usual way it is useful by way of change, the nourishment is much impaired by the removal of the skin. the same remark applies to soles. by frying fish unskinned you get a dish of a different character to that of skinned fish, and one of which the appetite does not so soon tire. fried sole. soles weighing from three-quarters of a pound to a pound are the most suitable size for frying whole. if it is desired to have the fish juicy and with their full flavour, do not have them skinned. the black side of the soles will not of course look so well, or be so crisp, as the white side, but this is of little consequence compared to the nourishment sacrificed in removing the skin. have the soles scraped, wipe them, put a tablespoonful of vinegar in a dish, pass the fish through it, and let them lie an hour or more, if necessary all night, as the flavour is thus improved. run a knife along the backbone, which prevents it looking red when cut. when ready to crumb the fish, lay them in a cloth and thoroughly dry them. beat up the yolk of an egg with a very little of the white, which will be sufficient to egg a pair of soles; pass the fish through the egg on both sides, hold it up to drain; have ready on a plate a quarter of a pound of very fine dry crumbs, mixed with two ounces of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. draw the fish over the crumbs, first on one side, then on the other, and lay it gently on a dish, black side downwards, whilst you prepare another. some people succeed better in crumbing fish by sifting the crumbs on to it through a very fine strainer after it is egged. when the fish are ready put them, black side downwards, into the frying-pan with plenty of fat, hot enough to brown a piece of bread instantaneously, move the pan about gently, and when the soles have been fried four minutes, put a strong cooking-fork into them near the head, turn the white side downwards, and fry three minutes longer. seven minutes will be sufficient to fry a sole weighing three-quarters of a pound, and a pair of this weight is sufficient for a party of six persons. when the sole is done put the fork into the fish close to the head, hold it up and let all the fat drain away, lay it on a sheet of cap paper, and cover over with another sheet. being thus quite freed from grease, of a rich golden brown, crisp, and with an even surface, lay the fish on the dish for serving, which should have on it either a fish-paper or a napkin neatly folded. a well-fried sole is best eaten without any sauce, but in deference to the national usage, butter sauce, or melted butter, may be served with it. filleted soles. it is better for the cook to fillet the soles, for there is often much waste when it is done by the fishmonger. having skinned the fish, with a sharp knife make an incision down the spine-bone from the head to the tail, and then along the fins; press the knife between the flesh and the bone, bearing rather hard against the latter, and the fillets will then be readily removed. these can now be dressed in a variety of ways; perhaps the most delicate for breakfast is the following: fillets of sole sautã�s. having dried the fillets, divide them into neat pieces two or three inches long; dip them in the beaten yolk of egg, and then in seasoned bread-crumbs. make a little butter hot in the frying-pan, put in the fillets and cook them slowly until brown on one side, then turn and finish on the other. fillets of sole fried. these may either be rolled in one piece or divided into several, as in the foregoing recipe. in either case egg and crumb them thoroughly, place them in the wire-basket as you do them, which immerse in fat hot enough to crisp bread instantly. when done, put the fillets on paper to absorb any grease clinging to them, and serve as hot as possible. all kinds of flat fish can be filleted and cooked by these recipes, and will usually be found more economical than serving the fish whole. it is also economical to fillet the tail-end of cod, salmon, and turbot, and either fry or _sautã©_, as may be preferred. fillets of sole with lobster. thin and fillet a pair of soles, each weighing about a pound. roll the fillets, secure them with thread, which remove before serving; put them in a stewpan with two ounces of sweet butter, cover closely, and allow them to cook at a slow heat for twenty minutes or until tender, taking care to keep them from getting brown. prepare a sauce by boiling a quarter of a pound of veal cutlet and the bones of the fish in half-a-pint of water. when reduced to a gill, strain and take off all fat from the sauce, thicken either with fine flour or "rizine," put it into the stewpan with the fish, and allow it to stand for a quarter of an hour without boiling. mince or cut in small pieces either the meat of a small fresh lobster, or half a flat tin of the best brand of preserved lobster. make this hot by putting it in a jam pot standing in a saucepan of boiling water. take up the fish, carefully pour the sauce round, and place on the top of each fillet some of the lobster. baked whiting. small whiting answer well for this purpose. tie them round, the tail to the mouth, dip them in dissolved butter, lightly sprinkle with pepper and salt, strew them with pale raspings, put them in a baking-dish with a little butter, and bake in a quick oven for a quarter of an hour. cod cutlets. a cheap and excellent dish is made by filleting the tail of cod, egging and crumbing the pieces and frying them. get about a pound and a half of the tail of a fine cod; with a sharp knife divide the flesh from the bone lengthways, cut it into neat pieces as nearly of a size as you can, and flatten with a knife. dip in egg, then in crumbs mixed with a little flour, pepper, and salt. it is best to fry the cutlets in the wire-basket in plenty of fat, but if this is not convenient they can be done in the frying-pan; in any case, they should be done quickly, so that they may get crisp. fried herrings. take care the fish is well cleaned, without being split. two or three hours before cooking, lightly sprinkle with salt and pepper; when ready to cook, wipe and flour the herrings. have ready in the frying-pan as much fat at the proper temperature as will cover the herrings. cook quickly at first, then moderate the heat slightly, and fry for ten to twelve minutes, when they should be crisp and brown. when done, lay them on a dish before the fire, in order that all fat and the fish-oil may drain from them; with this precaution, fried herrings will be found more digestible than otherwise they would be. rolled herrings. choose the herrings with soft roes. having scraped and washed them, cut off the heads, split open, take out the roes, and cleanse the fish. hold one in the left hand, and, with thumb and finger of the right, press the backbone to loosen it, then lay flat on the board and draw out the bone; it will come out whole, leaving none behind. dissolve a little fresh butter, pass the inner side of the fish through it, sprinkle pepper and salt lightly over, then roll it up tightly with the fin and tail outwards, roll it in flour and sprinkle a little pepper and salt, then put a small game skewer to keep the herring in shape. have ready a good quantity of boiling fat; it is best to do the herrings in a wire-basket, and fry them quickly for ten minutes. take them up and set them on a plate before the fire, in order that all the fat may drain from them. pass the roes through flour mixed with a sufficient quantity of pepper and salt, fry them brown, and garnish the fish with them and crisp parsley. a difficulty is often felt in introducing herrings at dinner on account of the number of small bones in them, but this is obviated by the above method of dressing, as with care not one bone should be left in. galantine of fish. procure a fine large fresh haddock and two smaller, of which to make forcemeat. take off the head and open the large fish. carefully press the meat from the backbone, which must be removed without breaking the skin; trim away the rough parts and small bones at the sides. cover the inside of the fish with a layer of forcemeat, and at intervals place lengthways a few fillets of anchovies, between which sprinkle a little lobster coral which has been passed through a wire sieve; fold the haddock into its original form, and sew it up with a needle and strong thread. dip a cloth in hot water, wring it as dry as possible, butter sufficient space to cover the fish, then fold it up, tie each end, and put a small safety pin in the middle to keep it firm. braise the galantine for an hour in stock made from the bones of the fish. let it stay in the liquor until cold, when take it up and draw out the sewing thread. reduce and strain the liquor, mix with cream and aspic jelly, or nelson's gelatine, dissolved in the proportion of half-an-ounce to a pint. when this sauce is on the point of setting, coat the galantine with it, sprinkle with little passed lobster coral, dish in a bed of shred salad, tastefully interspersed with beetroot cut in dice and dipped in oil and vinegar. to make the forcemeat, pound the fillets of the small haddocks till fine, then work in about half its quantity of bread panada, an ounce of butter, and the fillets of two anchovies; season with salt and pepper, mix in one egg and a yolk, pass through a wire sieve, and work into it a gill of cream. fillets of sole en aspic. aspic jelly, or meat jelly, may be made very good, and at a moderate cost, by boiling lean beef or veal in water with a little vegetable and spice. to make it according to the standard recipes is so expensive and tedious that few persons care to attempt it. the following directions will enable a cook to make an excellent and clear aspic. cut two pounds of lean beefsteak or veal cutlet into dice, put it on in two quarts of cold water, and as soon as it boils, take off the scum as it rises. let it simmer gently for half-an-hour; then add four onions, a turnip, carrot, small bundle of sweet herbs, blade of mace, half-a-dozen white peppercorns, and when it has again boiled for an hour strain it through a napkin. let it stand until cold, remove all the fat, boil it up, and to a quart of the liquor put an ounce of nelson's gelatine, previously soaked in cold water. add salt and a pinch of cayenne pepper, and when the jelly is cool stir in the whites and shells of two eggs well beaten. let the jelly boil briskly for two minutes, let it stand off the fire for a few minutes, then strain through a jelly-bag and use as directed. take the fillets of a pair of large thick soles, cut them into neat square pieces, leaving the trimmings for other dishes, and lay them in vinegar with a little salt for an hour. as they must be kept very white the best french vinegar should be used. boil the fillets gently in salted water, with a little vinegar, till done; take them up and dry them on a cloth. have ready some picked parsley and hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters; arrange these neatly at the bottom of a plain mould so as to form a pretty pattern. pour in very gently enough jelly to cover the first layer, let it stand until beginning to set, then put another layer of fish, eggs, and parsley, then more jelly, and so on until the mould is full. when done set the mould on ice, or allow it to stand some hours in a cold place to get well set. turn it out, ornament with parsley, beetroot, and cut lemon. collared eels. clean and boil the eels in water highly seasoned with pepper and salt, an onion, bay-leaf, a clove, and a little vinegar. when the eels are done enough, slip out the bones and cut them up into pieces about two inches long. take the liquor in which the fish is boiled, strain it, let it boil in the stewpan without the lid, skimming it until it becomes clear. dissolve a quarter of an ounce of nelson's gelatine to each half-pint of the fish gravy, and boil together for a minute, let it then stand until cool. arrange the pieces of eel tastefully in a plain mould with small sprigs of curled parsley and slices of hard-boiled eggs, and, if you like, a fillet or two of anchovies cut up into dice. when all the fish is thus arranged in the mould, pour the jelly in very gently, a tablespoonful at a time, in order not to disturb the solid material. let the mould stand in cold water for seven or eight hours, when it can be turned out. ornament with parsley, lemon, and beetroot. little dishes of meat. *** in this chapter a number of useful and inexpensive dishes are given, which will serve either as breakfast dishes, _entrã©es_, or for invalids, and which may, in the hands of an intelligent cook, serve as models for many others. as will be seen, it is not so much a question of expense to provide these little tasty dishes as of management. in all the following recipes for little dishes of mutton, it will be found a great advantage to use new zealand meat. a good cook will never be embarrassed by having too much cold meat on hand, because she will be able by her skill so to vary the dishes that the appetites of those for whom she caters will never tire of it. even a small piece of the loin of mutton may be served in half-a-dozen different ways, and be relished by those who are tired of the mutton-chop or the plain roast. mutton cutlets. taken from the neck, mutton cutlets are expensive, but those from the loin will be found not only convenient, but to answer well at a smaller cost. first remove the under-cut or fillet from about two pounds of the best end of a loin of mutton, cut off the flap, which will be useful for stewing, and it is especially good eaten cold, and then remove the meat from the bones in one piece, which divide with the fillet into cutlets about half-an-inch thick. egg them over and dip them in well-seasoned bread-crumbs, fry them until a nice brown, and serve with gravy made from the bones and an onion. this way of cooking the loin is much more economical than in chops, because with them the bones and flap are wasted, whereas in cutlets all is used up. to stew the flap, put it in a stewpan, the fat downwards, sprinkle pepper and salt, and slice an onion or two over, and set it to fry gently in its own fat for an hour. take up the meat, and put half-a-pint of cold water to the fat, which, when it has risen in a solid cake, take off, mix a little flour with the gravy which will be found beneath the fat, add pepper, salt, and some cooked potatoes cut in slices. cut the meat into neat squares; let it simmer gently in the gravy with the potatoes for an hour. roulades of mutton. remove the fillet from a fine loin of mutton, trim away every particle of skin, fat, and gristle. flatten the fillet with a cutlet-bat, and cut it lengthways into slices as thin as possible; divide these into neat pieces about three inches long. sprinkle each with pepper, salt, and finely-chopped parsley, roll them up tightly, then dip in beaten egg, and afterwards in finely-sifted bread-crumbs mixed with an equal quantity of flour and highly seasoned with pepper and salt. as each roulade is thus prepared place it on a game-skewer, three or four on each skewer. dissolve an ounce of butter in a small frying-pan, and cook the roulades in it. mutton collops. cut neat thin slices from a leg of either roasted or boiled mutton, dip them in yolk of egg and in fine dry bread-crumbs to which a little flour, pepper, and salt have been added. heat enough butter in a small frying-pan to just cover the bottom, put in the slices of mutton and cook them very slowly, first on one side then on the other, until they are brown. garnish the dish on which the mutton is served with some fried potatoes or potato chips. mutton sautã�. put a little butter or bacon fat in the frying-pan, sprinkle pepper and salt over slices of cold mutton, and let them get hot very slowly. the mutton must be frequently turned, and never allowed to fry. when turned in the pan for the last time sprinkle a little chopped parsley on the upper side; remove the slices carefully on to a hot dish, pour the fat in the pan over, and serve. cold mutton potted. cut up the mutton, being careful to free it from all sinew and skin; chop or pound it with half its weight of cooked bacon until it is as fine as desired. season with a little pepper, salt, and allspice, put it into a jar, which set in a saucepan of water over the fire until the meat is hot through. when taken up stir occasionally until cool, then press it into little pots, and pour clarified butter or mutton fat over the top. if liked, a little essence of anchovy may be added to the seasoning. mutton pies. mince a quarter of a pound of underdone mutton, taking care to have it free from skin and fat. mix with it a tablespoonful of rich gravy--that which is found under a cake of dripping from a joint is particularly suitable for this purpose--add a few drops of essence of anchovy, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and a small teaspoonful of minced parsley. if necessary add salt. line four patty-pans with puff paste, divide the mutton into equal portions and put it into the pans, cover each with a lid of paste, and bake in a quick oven for half-an-hour. ox brain. having carefully washed the brain, boil it very fast, in order to harden it, in well-seasoned gravy. when it is done, take it out of the gravy and set it aside until cold. cut it either in slices or in halves, dip each piece in egg, then in bread-crumbs well seasoned with dried and sifted parsley, pepper, and salt, fry them in a little butter until brown. the gravy having become cold, take off the fat, and boil it in a stewpan without a lid until it is reduced to a small quantity; pour it round the brain, and serve. brain fritters. carefully wash an ox brain, and boil it for a quarter of an hour in well-seasoned stock. when the brain is cold, cut it into slices as thin as possible, dip each of them in batter, drop them as you do them into a stewpan half-full of fat at a temperature of 430â°, or that which will brown instantly a piece of bread dipped into it. to make the batter, mix two large tablespoonfuls of fine flour with four of cold water, stir in a tablespoonful of dissolved butter or of fine oil, the yolk of an egg, and a pinch of salt and pepper; when ready to use, beat the white of the egg to a strong froth, and mix with it. do not fry more than two fritters at once; as you take them up, throw them on paper to absorb any grease clinging to them, serve on a napkin or ornamental dish-paper. if this recipe is closely followed, the fritters will be light, crisp, delicate morsels, melting in the mouth, and form besides a very pretty dish. garnish with fried parsley; take care the parsley is thoroughly dry, put it into a small frying-basket, and immerse it for an instant in the fat in which the fritters are to be cooked. turn it out on paper, dry, and serve. marrow toast. let the butcher break up a marrow-bone. take out the marrow in as large pieces as possible, and put them into a stewpan with a little boiling water, rather highly salted. when the marrow has boiled for a minute, drain the water away through a fine strainer. have ready a slice of lightly-toasted bread, place the marrow on it, and put it into a dutch oven before the fire for five minutes, or until it is done. sprinkle over it a little pepper and salt, and a small teaspoonful of parsley, chopped fine. the toast must be served very hot. chicken in aspic jelly. cut the white part of a cold boiled chicken, and as many similar pieces of cold ham, into neat rounds, not larger than a florin. run a little aspic jelly into a fancy border mould, allow it to set, and arrange a decoration of boiled carrot and white savoury custard cut crescent shape, dipping each piece in melted aspic. pour in a very little more jelly, and when it is set place the chicken and ham round alternately, with a sprig of chervil, or small salad, here and there. put in a very small quantity of aspic to keep this in place, then, when nearly set, sufficient to cover it. arrange another layer, this time first of ham then of chicken, fix them in the same way, and fill up the mould with aspic jelly. when the dish is turned out fill the centre with cold green peas, nicely seasoned, and garnish round with chopped aspic and little stars of savoury custard. to make this, soak a quarter of an ounce of nelson's gelatine in a gill of milk, dissolve it over the fire, and stir in a gill of thick cream, season to taste with cayenne pepper and salt, and, if liked, a little grate of nutmeg. pour the custard on to a large dish, and when cold cut it into the required shapes. veal cutlets in white sauce. cut six or seven cutlets, about half-an-inch thick, from a neck of veal, braise them in half-a-pint of good white stock with an onion, a small bunch of herbs, a bacon bone, and two or three peppercorns, until they are done. let the cutlets get cool in the liquor, then drain them. strain the liquor and make a white sauce with it; add a tablespoonful of thick cream and a quarter of an ounce of nelson's gelatine, dissolved in a gill of milk; season with salt and cayenne pepper, stirring occasionally until quite cold. dip the cutlets in, smoothly coating one side, and before the sauce sets decorate them with very narrow strips of truffle in the form of a star. cut as many pieces of cooked tongue or ham as there are cutlets, dish them alternately in a circle on a border of aspic, fill the centre with a salad composed of all kinds of cold cooked vegetables, cut with a pea-shaped cutter and seasoned with oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. garnish with aspic jelly cut lozenge shape and sprigs of chervil. kidneys sautã�s. like many other articles of diet, kidneys within the last ten years have been doubled in price, and are so scarce as to be regarded as luxuries. the method of cooking them generally in use is extravagant, and renders them tasteless and indigestible. kidneys should never be cooked rapidly, and those persons who cannot eat them slightly underdone should forego them. one kidney dressed as directed in the following recipe will go as far as two cooked in the ordinary manner--an instance, if one were needed, of the economy of well-prepared food. choose fine large kidneys, skin them and cut each the round way into thin slices: each kidney should yield from ten to twelve slices. have ready a tablespoonful of flour highly seasoned with pepper and salt and well mixed together; dip each piece of kidney in it. cut some neat thin squares of streaked bacon, fry them _very slowly_ in a little butter; when done, put them on the dish for serving, and keep hot whilst you _sautã©_ the kidneys, which put into the fat the bacon was cooked in. in about a minute the gravy will begin to rise on the upper side, then turn the kidneys and let them finish cooking slowly; when they are done, as they will be in three to four minutes, the gravy will again begin to rise on the side which is uppermost. put the kidneys on the dish with the bacon, and pour over them a spoonful or two of plain beef gravy, or water thickened with a little flour, boiled and mixed with the fat and gravy from the kidneys in the frying-pan. if there is too much fat in the pan, pour it away before boiling up the gravy. serve the kidneys on a hot-water dish. tinned kidneys with mushrooms. (_tomoana brand._) dry a half-tin of champignons in a cloth, or, if convenient, prepare a similar quantity of fresh button mushrooms; add to these a few pieces of dried mushrooms, previously soaked for ten minutes in tepid water, put them into a stewpan with a slice of butter, and stir constantly for six minutes, then add two or three kidneys cut in small neat pieces, in the shape of dice is best, and continue stirring until the kidneys are hot through, taking care to do them slowly; at the last moment season with pepper and salt, and serve very hot. garnish the dish with fried sippets of bread. kidneys with piccalilli sauce. (_tomoana brand._) take the kidneys out of the gravy, and cut them into six slices. mix a small teaspoonful of curry powder with three teaspoonfuls of fine flour and a small pinch of salt. dip each slice in this mixture, and when all are done put them in the frying-pan with a little butter, and let them get slowly hot through. when done, put the kidneys in the centre of a hot dish, and pour round them a sauce made as follows: boil up the gravy of the kidneys, and stir into it sufficient minced piccalilli pickles to make it quite thick, add a teaspoonful of flour to a tablespoonful of the piccalilli vinegar, stir into the sauce, and when all has boiled up together, pour it round the kidneys. broiled kidneys. these are quite an epicure's dish, and care must be taken to cook them slowly. having skinned the kidneys (they must not be split or cut) dip them for a moment in boiling fat, place them on the gridiron over a slow fire, turning them every minute. they will take ten to fifteen minutes to cook, and will be done as soon as the gravy begins to run. place them on a hot dish rubbed over with butter, salt and pepper them rather highly. it must be understood that kidneys thus cooked ought to have the gravy in them, and that when they are cut at table it should run from them freely and in abundance. lamb's fry. a really proper fry should consist not only of sweetbreads and liver, but of the heart, melt, brains, frill, and kidneys, each of which requires a different treatment. it is quite as easy to cook a fry properly as to flour and fry it hard and over-brown, as is too frequently done. trim the sweetbreads neatly, and simmer them for a quarter of an hour in good white stock with an onion. when they are done take them up and put the brains in the gravy, allowing them to boil as fast as possible in order to harden them; let them get cold, then cut into slices, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry with the sweetbread in a little butter. after the brains are taken out of the gravy, put the slices of heart and melt in, and let them stew slowly until tender. when they are ready, flour them, and fry with the liver and frill until brown. lastly, put the kidneys, cut in slices, into the pan, and very gently fry for about a minute. shake a little flour onto the pan, stir it about until it begins to brown; then pour on to it the gravy, in which the sweetbreads, etc., were stewed, see it is nicely seasoned, and pour round the fry, which should be neatly arranged in the centre of the dish. garnish with fried parsley. lamb's sweetbreads. these make an admirable breakfast dish, and can be partly prepared over-night. trim and wash the sweetbreads, put them into a saucepan with sufficient well-flavoured stock to cover them, a minced onion and a sprig of lemon-thyme; boil gently for fifteen minutes, or a little longer if necessary. take them up, drain, dip in egg and finely-sifted bread-crumbs mixed with a little flour, pepper, and salt. fry very carefully, so as not to make it brown or hard, some small slices of bacon, keep warm whilst you fry the sweetbreads in the fat which has run from it, adding, if required, a little piece of butter or lard. for a breakfast dish, the sweetbreads should be served without gravy, but if for an _entrã©e_ the liquor in which they were stewed, with slight additions and a little thickening, can be poured round them in the dish. calves' sweetbreads are prepared in the same manner as the above, and can either be fried, finished in a dutch oven, or served white, with parsley and butter, or white sauce. veal ã� la casserole. for this dish a piece of the fillet about three inches thick will be required, and weighing from two to three pounds. it should be cut from one side of the leg, without bone; but sometimes butchers object to give it, as cutting in this manner interferes with cutlets. in such a case a piece must be chosen near the knuckle, and the bone be taken out before cooking. for a larger party, a thick slice of the fillet, weighing about four pounds, will be found advantageous. with a piece of tape tie the veal into a round shape, flour, and put it into a stewpan with a small piece of butter, fry until it becomes brown on all sides. then put half a pint of good gravy, nicely seasoned with pepper and salt, cover the stewpan closely, and set it on the stove to cook very slowly for at least four hours. when done, the veal will be exquisitely tender, full of flavour, but not the least ragged. take the meat up, and keep hot whilst the gravy is reduced, by boiling without the lid of the saucepan, to a rich glaze, which pour over the meat and serve. brown fricassã�e of chicken. this is a brown fricassã©e of chicken, and is an excellent dish. no doubt the reason it is so seldom given is that, although easy enough to do, it requires care and attention in finishing it. many of the best cooks, in the preparation of chickens for fricassã©e, cut them up before cooking, but we prefer to boil them whole, and afterwards to divide them, as the flesh thus is less apt to shrink and get dry. the chicken can be slowly boiled in plain water, with salt and onions, or, as is much better, in white broth of any kind. when the chicken is tender cut it up; take the back, and the skin, pinions of the wings, and pieces which do not seem nice enough for a superior dish, and boil them in a quart of the liquor in which it was boiled. add mushroom trimmings, onions, and a sprig of thyme; boil down to one-half, then strain, take off all fat, and stir over the fire with the yolk of two eggs and an ounce of fine flour until thickened. dip each piece of chicken in some of this sauce, and when they are cold pass them through fine bread-crumbs, then in the yolk of egg, and crumb again. fry carefully in hot fat. dish the chicken with a border of fried parsley, and the remainder of the gravy poured round the dish. this dish is generally prepared by french cooks by frying the chicken in oil, and seasoning with garlic; but unless the taste of the guests is well known, it is safer to follow the above recipe. chicken sautã�. put any of the meat of the breast or of the wings without bone into a frying-pan with a little fresh butter or bacon fat. cook them very slowly, turning repeatedly; if the meat has not been previously cooked it will take ten minutes, and five minutes if a _rã©chauffã©_. sprinkle with pepper, and serve with mushrooms or broiled bacon. the legs of cooked chickens are excellent _sautã©s_, but they should be boned before they are put into the pan. potato hash. put some cold potatoes chopped into the frying-pan with a little fat, stir them about for five minutes, then add to them an equal quantity of cold meat, cut into neat little squares, season nicely with pepper and salt, fry gently, stirring all the time, until thoroughly hot through. dry curry. fry a minced onion in butter until lightly browned, cut up the flesh of two cooked chicken legs, or any other tender meat, into dice, mix this with the onions, and stir them together over the fire until the meat is hot through; sprinkle over it about a small teaspoonful of curry-powder, and salt to taste. having thoroughly mixed the meat with the curry-powder, pour over it a tablespoonful of milk or cream, and stir over the fire until the moisture has dried up. celery salt may be used instead of plain salt, and some persons add a few drops of lemon-juice when the curry is finished. croquettes. croquettes of all kinds, fish, game, poultry or any delicate meats, can be successfully made on the following model: whatever material is used must be finely minced or pounded. care is required in making the sauce, if it is too thin it is difficult to mould the croquettes, and ice will be required to set it. croquettes of game without any flavouring, except a little salt and cayenne, are generally acceptable as a breakfast dish. preserved lobster makes very good croquettes for an _entrã©e_, and small scraps of any kind can thus be made into a very good dish. put one ounce of fine flour into a stewpan with half a gill of cold water, stir this over a slow fire very rapidly until it forms a paste, then add one ounce of butter, and stir until well incorporated. mix in a small teaspoonful of essence of shrimps or anchovies, with a pinch of salt and pepper. take the stewpan off the fire, and stir the yolk of an egg briskly into the sauce; thoroughly mix it with half-a-pound of pounded fish or meat, spread it out on a plate until it is cool. flour your hands, take a small piece of the croquette mixture, roll into a ball or into the shape of a cork, then pass it through very finely-sifted and dried bread-crumbs. repeat the process until all the mixture is used; put the croquettes as you do them into a wire frying-basket, which shake very gently, when all are placed in it, in order to free them from superfluous crumbs. have ready a stewpan half-full of boiling fat, dip the basket in, gently moving it about, and taking care the croquettes are covered with fat. in about a minute they will become a delicate brown, and will then be done. turn them on a paper to absorb any superfluous fat, serve them on a napkin or ornamental dish paper. no more croquettes than will lie on the bottom of the basket without touching each other should be fried at once. meat cakes ã� l'italienne. mix very fine any kind of cold meat or chicken, taking care to have it free from skin and gristle, add to it a quarter of its weight of sifted bread-crumbs, a few drops of essence of anchovy, a little parsley, pepper and salt, and sufficient egg to moisten the whole. flour your hands, roll the meat into little cakes about the size of a half-crown piece, then flatten the cakes with the back of a spoon, dip them in egg and fine bread-crumbs, and fry them in a little butter until lightly browned on the outside. put them on a hot dish and garnish with boiled italian paste. raised pork pie. take a pound of meat, fat and lean, from the chump end of a fine fore-loin of pork, cut it into neat dice, mix a tablespoonful of water with it, and season with a large teaspoonful of salt and a small one of black pepper. to make the crust, boil a quarter of a pound of lard or clarified dripping in a gill and a half of water, and pour it hot on to one pound of flour, to which a good pinch of salt has been added. mix into a stiff paste, pinch off enough of it to make the lid, and keep it hot. flour your board and work the paste into a ball, then with the knuckles of your right hand press a hole in the centre, and mould the paste into a round or oval shape, taking care to keep it a proper thickness. having put in the meat, join the lid to the pie, which raise lightly with both hands so as to keep it a good high shape, cut round the edge with a sharp knife, and make the trimmings into leaves to ornament the lid; and having placed these on, with a rose in the centre, put the pie on a floured baking-sheet and brush it over with yolk of egg. the crust of the pie should be cool and set before putting it into the oven, which should be a moderate heat. when the gravy boils out the pie is done. an hour and a half will bake a pie of this size. make a little gravy with the bones and trimmings of the pork, and to half-a-pint of it add a quarter of an ounce of nelson's gelatine, and nicely season with pepper and salt. when the pie is cold remove the rose from the top, make a little hole, insert a small funnel, and pour in as much gravy as the pie will hold. replace the rose on the top, and put the pie on a dish with a cut paper. if preferred, the pie can be made in a tin mould; but the crust is nicer raised by the hand. a great point to observe is to begin moulding the crust whilst it is hot, and to get it finished as quickly as possible. veal and ham pie. prepare the crust as for a pork pie. cut a pound of veal cutlet and a quarter of a pound of ham into dice, season with a teaspoonful of salt and another of black pepper, put the meat into the crust, and finish as for pork pie. add a quarter of an ounce of nelson's gelatine--previously soaked in cold water, and then dissolved--to a teacupful of gravy made from the veal trimmings. pork sausages. when a pig is cut up in the country, sausages are usually made of the trimmings; but when the meat has to be bought, the chump-end of a fore-loin will be found to answer best. the fine well-fed meat of a full-grown pig, known in london as "hog-meat," is every way preferable to that called "dairy-fed pork." the fat should be nearly in equal proportion to the lean, but of course this matter must be arranged to suit the taste of those who will eat the sausages. if young pork is used, remove the skin as thinly as you can--it is useful for various purposes--and then with a sharp knife cut all the flesh from the bones, take away all sinew and gristle, and cut the fat and lean into strips. some mincing-machines require the meat longer than others; for kent's combination, cut it into pieces about an inch long and half-an-inch thick. to each pound of meat put half a gill of gravy made from the bones, or water will do; then mix equally with it two ounces of bread-crumbs, a large teaspoonful of salt, a small one of black pepper, dried sage, and a pinch of allspice. this seasoning should be well mixed with the bread, as the meat will then be flavoured properly throughout the mass. arrange the skin on the filler, tie it at the end, put the meat, a little at a time, into the hopper, turn the handle of the machine briskly, and take care the skin is only lightly filled. when the sausages are made, tie the skin at the other end, pinch them into shape, and then loop them by passing one through another, giving a twist to each as you do them. sausage-skins, especially if preserved, should be well soaked before using, or they may make the sausages too salt. it is a good plan to put the skin on the water-tap and allow the water to run through it, as thus it will be well washed on the inside. fifteen to twenty minutes should be allowed for frying sausages, and when done they should be nicely browned. a little butter or lard is best for frying, and some pieces of light bread may be fried in it when the sausages are done, and placed round the dish by way of garnish. cooks cannot do better than remember dr. kitchener's directions for frying sausages. after saying, "they are best when quite fresh made," he adds: "put a bit of butter or dripping into a clean frying-pan; as soon as it is melted, before it gets hot, put in the sausages, and shake the pan for a minute, and keep turning them. be careful not to break or prick them in so doing. fry them over a very slow fire till they are nicely browned on all sides. the secret of frying sausages is to let them get hot very gradually; they then will not break if they are not stale. the common practice to prevent them bursting is to prick them with a fork, but this lets the gravy out." puddings. *** custard pudding. we give this pudding first because it affords an opportunity for giving hints on making milk puddings generally, and because, properly made, there is no more delicious pudding than this. it is besides most useful and nutritious, not only for the dinner of healthy people, but for children and invalids. but few cooks, however, make it properly; as a rule too many eggs are used, to which the milk is added cold, and the pudding is baked in a quick oven. the consequence is that the pudding curdles and comes to table swimming in whey; or, even if this does not happen, the custard is full of holes and is tough. in the first place, milk for all puddings with eggs should be poured on to the eggs boiling hot; in the next, the baking must be very slowly done, if possible, as directed in the recipe; the dish containing the pudding to be placed in another half-full of water. this, of course, prevents the baking proceeding too rapidly, and also prevents the pudding acquiring a sort of burned greasy flavour, which is injurious for invalids. lastly, too many eggs should not be used; the quantity given, two to the pint of milk, is in all cases quite sufficient, and will make a fine rich custard. we never knew a pudding curdle, even with london milk a day old, if all these directions were observed; but it is almost needless to say, that the pudding made with new rich milk is much finer than one of inferior milk. boil a pint and a half of milk with two ounces of lump sugar, or rather more if a sweet pudding is liked, and pour it boiling hot on three eggs lightly beaten--that is, just sufficiently so to mix whites and yolks. flavour the custard with nutmeg, grated lemon-peel, or anything which may be preferred and pour it into a tart-dish. place this dish in another three-parts full of boiling water, and bake slowly for forty minutes, or until the custard is firm. there is no need to butter the dish if the pudding is baked as directed. soufflã� pudding. this is a delicious pudding, and to insure its success great care and exactness are required. in the first place, to avoid failure it is necessary that the butter, flour, sugar, and milk, should be stirred long enough over a moderate fire to make a stiff paste, because if this is thin the eggs will separate, and the pudding when done resemble a batter with froth on the top. before beginning to make the pudding, prepare a pint tin by buttering it inside and fastening round it with string on the outside a buttered band of writing-paper, which will stand two inches above the tin and prevent the pudding running over as it rises. melt an ounce of butter in a stewpan, add one ounce of sifted sugar, stir in an ounce and a half of vienna flour, mix well together, add a gill of milk, and stir over the fire with a wooden spoon until it boils and is thick. take the stewpan off the fire, beat up the yolks of three eggs with half a teaspoonful of extract of vanilla, and stir a little at a time into the paste, to insure both being thoroughly mixed together. put a small pinch of salt to the whites of four eggs, whip them as stiff as possible, and stir lightly into the pudding, which pour immediately into the prepared mould. have ready a saucepan with enough boiling water to reach a little way up the tin, which is best placed on a trivet, so that the water cannot touch the paper band. let the pudding steam very gently for twenty minutes, or until it is firm in the middle, and will turn out. for sauce, boil two tablespoonfuls of apricot jam in a gill of water, with two ounces of lump sugar, stir in a wine-glassful of sherry, add a few drops of nelson's vanilla flavouring, pour over the pudding and serve. omelet soufflã�. put the yolks of two eggs into a basin with an ounce of sifted sugar and a few drops of nelson's vanilla essence; beat the yolks and sugar together for six minutes, or until the mixture becomes thick. then whip the whites very stiff, so that they will turn out of the basin like a jelly. mix the yolks and whites lightly together, have ready an ounce of butter dissolved in the omelet-pan, pour in the eggs, hold this pan over a slow fire for two minutes, then put the frying-pan into a quick oven and bake until the omelet has risen; four minutes ought to be sufficient to finish the omelet in the oven; when done, slide it on to a warm dish, double it, sift sugar over, and serve instantly. sponge soufflã�. cover the bottom of a tart-dish with sponge-cakes, pour over a little brandy and sherry; put in a moderate oven until hot, then pour on the cakes an egg whip made of two packets of nelson's albumen, beaten to a strong froth with a little sugar. bake for a quarter of an hour in a slow oven. cabinet pudding. butter very thickly a pint pudding-basin, and cover it neatly with stoned muscatel raisins, the outer side of them being kept to the basin. lightly fill up the basin with alternate layers of sponge-cake and ratafias, and when ready to steam the pudding, pour by degrees over the cake a custard made of half-a-pint of boiling milk, an egg, three lumps of sugar, a tablespoonful of brandy, and a little lemon flavouring. cover the basin with a paper cap and steam or boil gently for three-quarters of an hour. great care should be taken not to boil puddings of this class fast, as it renders them tough and flavourless. brandy sauce. mix a tablespoonful of fine flour with a gill of cold water, put it into a gill of boiling water, and, having stirred over the fire until it is thick, add the yolk of an egg. continue stirring for five minutes, and sweeten with two ounces of castor sugar. mix a wine-glass of brandy with two tablespoonfuls of sherry, stir it into the sauce, and pour it round the pudding. if liked, a grate of nutmeg may be added to the sauce, and, if required to be rich, an ounce of butter may be stirred in before the brandy. warwickshire pudding. butter a pint-and-a-half tart-dish, lay in it a layer of light bread, cut thin, on this sprinkle a portion of two ounces of shred suet, and of one ounce of lemon candied-peel, chopped very fine. fill the dish lightly with layers of bread, sprinkling over each a little of the suet and peel. boil a pint of milk with two ounces of sugar, pour it on two eggs, beaten for a minute, and add it to the pudding just before putting it into the oven; a little of nelson's essence of lemon or almonds may be added to the custard. bake the pudding in a very slow oven for an hour. vanilla rusk pudding. dissolve, but do not oil, an ounce of butter, mix in a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, stir over the fire for a few minutes, add an egg well beaten, and half a teaspoonful of nelson's vanilla extract, or as much as will give a good flavour to the paste, which continue stirring until it gets thick. spread four slices of rusk with the vanilla paste, put them in a buttered tart-dish. boil half-a-pint of new milk, pour it on to an egg well beaten, then add it to the rusk, and put the pudding to bake in a slow oven for an hour. turn out when done, and sift sugar over the pudding. if a superior pudding is desired, boil a tablespoonful of apricot jam in a teacupful of plain sugar syrup, add a little vanilla flavouring, and pour over the pudding at the moment of serving. jubilee pudding. pour a pint of boiling milk on two ounces of rizine, stir over the fire for ten minutes, add half an ounce of butter, the yolks of two eggs, an ounce of castor sugar, and six drops of nelson's essence of almonds. put the pudding into a buttered pie-dish, and bake in a moderate oven for a quarter of an hour. when taken from the oven, spread over it a thin layer of apricot jam, and on this the whites of the eggs beaten to a strong froth, with half an ounce of castor sugar. return the pudding to a slow oven for about four minutes, in order to set the meringue. natal pudding. soak half-an-ounce of nelson's gelatine in half-a-pint of cold water until it is soft, when add the grated peel of half a lemon, the juice of two lemons, the beaten yolks of three eggs, and six ounces of lump sugar dissolved in half-a-pint of boiling water. stir the mixture over the fire until it thickens, taking care that it does not boil. have ready the whites of the eggs well whisked, stir all together, pour into a fancy mould, which put into a cold place until the pudding is set. queen's pudding. half-a-pound of bread-crumbs, a pint of new milk, two ounces of butter, the yolks of four eggs, and a little nelson's essence of lemon. boil the bread-crumbs and milk together, then add the sugar, butter, and eggs; when these are well mixed, bake in a tart-dish until a light brown. then put a layer of strawberry jam, and on the top of this the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, with a little sifted sugar. smooth over the meringue with a knife dipped in boiling water, and bake for ten minutes in a slow oven. chocolate pudding. boil half-a-pound of light stale bread in a pint of new milk. stir continually until it becomes a thick paste; then add an ounce of butter, a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, and two large teaspoonfuls of schweitzer's cocoatina, with a little nelson's essence of vanilla. take the pudding off the fire, and mix in, first, the yolks of three eggs, then the whites beaten to a strong froth. put into a buttered tart-dish and bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. cocoa-nut pudding. choose a large nut, with the milk in it, grate it finely, mix it with an equal weight of finely-sifted sugar, half its weight of butter, the yolks of four eggs, and the milk of the nut. let the butter be beaten to a cream, and when all the other ingredients are mixed with it, add the whites of the eggs, whisked to a strong froth. line a tart-dish with puff-paste, put in the pudding mixture and bake slowly for an hour. butter a sheet of paper and cover the top of the pudding, as it should not get brown. raspberry and currant pudding. stew raspberries and currants with sugar and water, taking care to have plenty of juice. cut the crumb of a stale tin-loaf in slices about half-an-inch thick and put in a pie-dish, leaving room for the bread to swell, with alternate layers of fruit, until the dish is full. then put in as much of the juice as you can without causing the bread to rise. when it is soaked up put in the rest of the juice, cover with a plate, and let the pudding stand until the next day. when required for use turn out and pour over it a good custard or cream. the excellence of this pudding depends on there being plenty of syrup to soak the bread thoroughly. this is useful when pastry is objected to. the capital pudding. shred a quarter of a pound of suet, mix it with half a pound of flour, one small teaspoonful each of baking-powder and carbonate of soda, then add four tablespoonfuls of strawberry or raspberry jam, and stir well with a gill of milk. boil for four hours in a high mould, and serve with wine or fruit sauce. the latter is made by stirring jam into thin butter sauce. italian fritters. cut slices of very light bread half-an-inch thick, with a round paste-cutter, divide them into neat shapes all alike in size. throw them into boiling fat and fry quickly of a rich golden brown, dry them on paper, place on a dish, and pour over orange or lemon syrup, or any kind of preserve made hot. honey or golden syrup may be used for those who like them. duchess of fife's pudding. boil two ounces of rice in a pint of milk until quite tender. when done, mix with it a quarter of an ounce of nelson's gelatine soaked in a tablespoonful of water. line the inside of a plain mould with the rice, and when it is set fill it up with half-a-pint of cream, whipped very stiff and mixed with some nice preserve, stewed fruit, or marmalade. after standing some hours turn out the pudding, and pour over it a delicate syrup made of the same fruit as that put inside the rice. welsh cheesecake. dry a quarter of a pound of fine flour, mix with two ounces of sifted loaf-sugar, and add it by degrees to two ounces of butter beaten to a cream; then work in three well-beaten eggs, flavour with nelson's essence of lemon. line patty-pans with short crust, put in the above mixture, and bake in a quick oven. friar's omelet. make six moderate-sized apples into sauce, sweeten with powdered loaf-sugar, stir in two ounces of butter, and when cold, mix with two well-beaten eggs. butter a tart-dish, and strew the bottom and sides thickly with bread-crumbs, then put in the apple-sauce, and cover with bread-crumbs to the depth of a quarter of an inch, put a little dissolved butter on the top, and bake for an hour in a good oven. when done, turn it out, and sift sugar over it. compote of apples with fried bread. bake a dozen good cooking apples, scrape out the pulp, boil this with half-a-pound of sugar to a pound of pulp, until it becomes stiff. it must be stirred all the time it is boiling. when done, place the compote in the centre of the dish, piling it up high. have ready some triangular pieces of fried bread, arrange some like a crown on the top, the remainder at the bottom of the compote. have ready warmed half a pot of apricot marmalade mixed with a little plain sugar-syrup, and pour it over the compote, taking care that each piece of bread is well covered. apple fool. bake good sharp apples; when done, remove the pulp and rub it through a sieve, sweeten and flavour with nelson's essence of lemon; when cold add to it a custard made of eggs and milk, or milk or cream sweetened will be very good. keep the fool quite thick. serve with rusks or sponge finger biscuits. apple meringue. beat up two packets of nelson's albumen with six small teaspoonfuls of water, and stir them into half-a-pound of stiff apple-sauce flavoured with nelson's essence of lemon. put the meringue on a bright tin or silver dish, pile it up high in a rocky shape, and bake in a quick oven for ten minutes. stewed pears with rice. put four large pears cut in halves into a stewpan with a pint of claret, burgundy, or water, and eight ounces of sugar, simmer them until perfectly tender. take out the pears and let the syrup boil down to half; flavour it with vanilla. have ready a teacupful of rice, nicely boiled in milk and sweetened, spread it on a dish, lay the pears on it, pour the syrup over, and serve. this is best eaten cold. compote of prunes. wash the fruit in warm water, put it on to boil in cold water in which lump sugar has been dissolved. to a pound of prunes put half-a-pound of sugar, a pint of water, with the thin rind and juice of a lemon. let them simmer for an hour, or until so tender that they will mash when pressed. strain the fruit and set it aside. boil the syrup until it becomes very thick and is on the point of returning to sugar, then pour it over the prunes, turn them about so that they become thoroughly coated, taking care not to break them, let them lie for twelve hours, then pile up on a glass dish for dessert. on jelly-making. *** it is within the memory of many persons that jelly was only to be made from calves' feet by a slow, difficult, and expensive process. there is, indeed, a story told of the wife of a lawyer, early in this century, having appropriated some valuable parchment deeds to make jelly, when she could not procure calves' feet. but the secret that it could be so made was carefully guarded by the possessors of it, and it was not until the introduction of nelson's gelatine that people were brought to believe that jelly could be made other than in the old-fashioned way. even now there is a lingering superstition that there is more nourishment in jelly made of calves' feet than that made from gelatine. the fact is, however, that gelatine is equally nutritious from whatever source it is procured. foreign gelatine, as is well known, does sometimes contain substances which, if not absolutely deleterious, are certainly undesirable; but messrs. nelson warrant their gelatine of equal purity with that derived from calves' feet. it is unnecessary to enlarge on the economy both in time and money of using gelatine, or the more certain result obtained from it. if the recipe given for making "a quart of jelly" is closely followed, a most excellent and brilliant jelly will be produced. many cooks get worried about their jelly-bags, and are much divided in opinion as to the best kind to use. it is not a point of great consequence whether a felt or close flannel is selected. we incline to the latter, which must be of good quality, and if the material is not thick it should be used double. when put away otherwise than perfectly clean and dry, or when stored in a damp place, flannel bags are sure to acquire a strong mouldy flavour, which is communicated to all jelly afterwards strained through them. the great matter, therefore, to observe in respect of the jelly-bag, is that it be put away in a proper condition, that is, perfectly free from all stiffness and from any smell whatever. as soon as the bag is done with, turn it inside out, throw it into a pan of boiling water, stir it about with a spoon until it is cleansed. then, have another pan of boiling water, and again treat the bag in the same manner. add as much cold water as will enable you to wring the bag out dry, or it can be wrung out in a cloth. this done, finally rinse in hot water, wring, and, if possible, dry the bag in the open air. see that it is perfectly free from smell; if not, wash in very hot water again. wrap the bag in several folds of clean paper and keep it in a dry place. a thing to be observed is that, if the jelly is allowed to come very slowly to boiling-point it will be more effectually cleared, as the impurities of the sugar and the thicker portions of the lemons thus rise more surely with the egg than if this part of the process is too rapidly carried out. in straining, if the jelly is well made, it is best to pour all into the bag at one time, doing it slowly, so as not to break up the scum more than necessary. should the jelly not be perfectly bright on a first straining, it should be kept hot, and slowly poured again through the bag. the contents of the bag should not be disturbed, nor should the slightest pressure be applied, as this is certain to cloud the jelly. if brandy is used, it should be put in after the jelly is strained, as by boiling both the spirit and flavour of it are lost. in order that jelly may turn out well, do not put it into the mould until it is on the point of setting. if attention is paid to this there will never be any difficulty in getting jelly to turn out of a mould, and putting it into hot water or using hot cloths will be unnecessary. a mould should be used as cold as possible, because then when the jelly comes into contact with it, it is at once set and cannot stick. any kind of mould may be used. if the direction to put the jelly in _when just setting_ is followed, it will turn out as well from an earthenware as from a copper mould. it should be unnecessary to say that the utmost cleanliness is imperative to insure the perfection of jelly. so delicate a substance not only contracts any disagreeable flavour, but is rendered cloudy by the least touch of any greasy spoon, or by a stewpan which has not been properly cleansed. how to use gelatine. there are a few points connected with the use of gelatine for culinary purposes which cannot be too strongly impressed upon housekeepers and cooks. 1. gelatine should always be soaked in cold water till it is thoroughly saturated--say, till it is so soft that it will tear with the fingers--whether this is specified in the recipe or not. 2. nelson's gelatine being cut very fine will soak in about an hour, but whenever possible it is desirable to give it a longer time. when convenient, it is a good plan to put gelatine to soak over-night. it will then dissolve in liquid below boiling-point. when jelly has to be cleared with white of egg do not boil it longer than necessary. two minutes is quite sufficient to set the egg and clarify the jelly. use as little gelatine as possible; that is to say, never use more than will suffice to make a jelly strong enough to retain its form when turned out of the mould. the prejudice against gelatine which existed in former years was doubtless caused by persons unacquainted with its qualities using too large a quantity, and producing a jelly hard, tough, and unpalatable, which compared very unfavourably with the delicate jellies they had been accustomed to make from calves' feet, the delicacy of which arose from the simple fact that the gelatine derived from calves' feet is so weak that it is almost impossible to make the jellies too strong. persons accustomed to use gelatine will know that its "setting" power is very much affected by the temperature. in the recipes contained in the following pages the quantity of gelatine named is that which experience has shown to be best suited to the average temperature of this country. in hot weather and foreign climates a little more gelatine should be added. to make a quart of brilliant jelly. soak one ounce of nelson's opaque gelatine in half-a-pint of cold water for two or three hours, and then add the same quantity of boiling water; stir until dissolved, and add the juice and peel of two lemons, with wine and sugar sufficient to make the whole quantity one quart; have ready the white and shell of an egg, well beaten together, or a packet of nelson's albumen, and stir these briskly into the jelly; boil for two minutes without stirring it; remove from the fire, allow it to stand two minutes, and strain through a close flannel bag. let it be on the point of setting before putting into the mould. an economical jelly. for general family use it is not necessary to clear jelly through the bag, and a quart of excellent jelly can be made as follows: soak one ounce of nelson's gelatine in half-a-pint of cold water for two or three hours, then add a 3d. packet of nelson's citric acid and three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar; pour on half-a-pint of boiling water and half-a-pint of sherry, orange or other wine (cold), and add one-twelfth part of a bottle of nelson's essence of lemon; stir for a few minutes before pouring into the moulds. the effect of citric acid in the above quantity is to make the jelly clearer. when this is not of consequence, a third of a packet can be used, and six ounces of sugar. wine can be omitted if desired, and water substituted for it. ginger-beer makes an excellent jelly for those who do not wish for wine, and hedozone is also very good. jelly with fruit. this is an elegant sweetmeat, and with clear jelly and care in moulding, can be made by inexperienced persons, particularly if nelson's bottled jelly is used. if the jelly is home-made the recipe for making a "quart of jelly" will be followed. when the jelly is on the point of setting, put sufficient into a cold mould to cover the bottom of it. then place in the centre, according to taste, any fine fruit you choose, a few grapes, cherries, strawberries, currants, anything you like, provided it is not too heavy to break the jelly. put in another layer of jelly, and when it is set enough, a little more fruit, then fill up your mould with jelly, and let it stand for some hours. ribbon jelly. soak one ounce of nelson's patent gelatine in half-a-pint of cold water for twenty minutes, then add the same quantity of boiling water. stir until dissolved, and add the juice and peel of two lemons, with wine and sugar sufficient to make the whole quantity one quart. have ready the white and shell of an egg, well beaten together, and stir these briskly into the jelly; then boil for two minutes without stirring, and remove it from the fire; allow it to stand two minutes, then strain it through a close flannel bag. divide the jelly in two equal parts, leaving one pint of a yellow colour, and adding a few drops of prepared cochineal to colour the remainder a bright red. put a small quantity of red jelly into a mould previously soaked in cold water. let this set, then pour in a small quantity of the pale jelly, and repeat this until the mould is full, taking care that each layer is perfectly firm before pouring in the other. put it in a cool place, and the next day turn it out. or, the mould may be partly filled with the yellow jelly, and when this is thoroughly set, fill up with the red. ribbon jelly and jelly of two colours can be made in any pretty fancy mould (there are many to be had for the purpose); of course one colour must always be perfectly firm before the other is put in, or the effect would be spoilt by the two colours running into each other. ribbon jelly can be made with two kinds of nelson's bottled jelly. the sherry will be used for the pale, and cherry or port wine jelly for the red colour. thus an elegant jelly will be made in a few minutes. claret jelly. take one ounce of nelson's patent gelatine, soak for twenty minutes in half-a-pint of cold water, then dissolve. add three-quarters of a pound of sugar, a pot of red-currant jelly, and a bottle of good ordinary claret, and stir over the fire till the sugar is dissolved. beat the whites and shells of three eggs, stir them briskly into the preparation, boil for two minutes longer, take it off the fire, and when it has stood for two minutes pass it through the bag. this should be a beautiful red jelly, and perfectly clear. coffee jelly. soak an ounce of nelson's gelatine in half-a-pint of water for an hour or more, dissolve it in a pint-and-a-half of boiling water with half-a-pound of sugar. clear it with white of egg, and run through a jelly-bag as directed for making "a quart of brilliant jelly." this done, stir in a tablespoonful, or rather more if liked, of allen and hanbury's cafã© vierge, which is a very fine essence of coffee. or, instead of dissolving the gelatine in water, use strong coffee. cocoa jelly. make half-a-pint of cocoa from the nibs, taking care to have it clear. soak half-an-ounce of nelson's gelatine in half-a-pint of water; add a quarter of a pound of sugar, dissolve, and clear the jelly with the whites and shells of two eggs in the usual way. flavour with nelson's essence of vanilla after the jelly has been through the bag. when a clear jelly is not required, the cocoa can be made of schweitzer's cocoatina, double the quantity required for a beverage being used. mix this with half-an-ounce of nelson's gelatine and flavour with vanilla. oranges filled with jelly. cut a small round from the stalk end of each orange, and scoop out the inside. throw the skins into cold water for an hour to harden them, drain, and when quite dry inside, half fill with pink jelly. put in a cool place, and when the jelly is firm, fill up with pale jelly or blanc-mange; set aside again, and cut into quarters before serving. arrange with a sprig of myrtle between each quarter. use lemons instead of oranges if preferred. orange fruit jelly. boil half-a-pound of lump sugar in a gill of water until melted. stir in half-an-ounce of nelson's gelatine previously soaked in a gill of cold water; when it is dissolved beat a little, and let it stand until cold. rub four lumps of sugar on the peel of two fine oranges, so as to get the full and delicate flavour; add this sugar with the juice of a lemon and sufficient orange juice strained to make half-a-pint to the above. beat well together, and when on the point of setting, add the fruit of two oranges prepared as follows: peel the oranges, cut away all the white you can without drawing the juice, divide the orange in quarters, take out seeds and all pith, and cut the quarters into three or four pieces. mix these with the jelly, which at once put into a mould, allowing it to stand a few hours before turning out. apple jelly. take one pound of apples, peel them with a sharp knife, cut them in two, take out the core, and cut the fruit into small pieces. place the apples in a stewpan, with three ounces of lump sugar, half-a-pint of water, a small teaspoonful of nelson's citric acid, and six drops of nelson's essence of lemon. put the stewpan on the fire, and boil the apples till they are quite tender, stirring occasionally to prevent the fruit sticking to the bottom of the pan; or the apples can be steamed in a potato-steamer, afterwards adding lemon-juice and sugar. soak an ounce of nelson's gelatine in a gill of cold water, dissolve it, and when the apples are cooked to a pulp, place a hair sieve over a basin and rub the apples through with a wooden spoon; stir the melted gelatine into the apples, taking care that it is quite smoothly dissolved. if liked, colour part of the apples by stirring in half a spoonful of cochineal colouring. rinse a pint-and-a-half mould in boiling water, and then in cold water; ornament the bottom of the mould with pistachio nuts cut in small pieces, or preserved cherries, according to taste. when on the point of setting put the apples into the mould, and if any part of the apples are coloured, fill the mould alternately with layers of coloured and plain apples. stand the mould aside in a cool place to set the apples, then turn out the jelly carefully on a dish, and send to table with cream whipped to a stiff froth. lemon sponge. to an ounce of nelson's gelatine add one pint of cold water, let it stand for twenty minutes, then dissolve it over the fire, add the rind of two lemons thinly pared, three-quarters of a pound of lump sugar, and the juice of three lemons; boil all together two minutes, strain it and let it remain till nearly cold, then add the whites of two eggs well beaten, and whisk ten minutes, when it will become the consistence of sponge. put it lightly into a glass dish immediately, leaving it in appearance as rocky as possible. this favourite sweetmeat is also most easily and successfully made with nelson's lemon sponge. dissolve the contents of a tin in half-a-pint of boiling water, let it stand until it is on the point of setting, then whip it until very white and thick. if any difficulty is experienced in getting the lemon sponge out of the tin, set it in a saucepan of boiling water for fifteen minutes. in cold weather also, should the sponge be slow in dissolving, put it in a stewpan with the boiling water and stir until dissolved; but do not boil it. it is waste of time to begin whipping until the sponge is on the point of setting. a gill of sherry may be added if liked, when the whipping of the sponge is nearly completed. put the sponge into a mould rinsed with cold water. it will be ready for use in two or three hours. a very pretty effect is produced by ornamenting this snow-white sponge with preserved barberries, or cherries, and a little angelica cut into pieces to represent leaves. strengthening jelly. put one ounce each of sago, ground rice, pearl barley, and nelson's gelatine--previously soaked in cold water--into a saucepan, with two quarts of water; boil gently till the liquid is reduced one-half. strain and set aside till wanted. a few spoonfuls of this jelly may be dissolved in broth, tea, or milk. it is nourishing and easily digested. dutch flummery. to an ounce and a half of nelson's patent gelatine add a pint of cold water; let it steep, then pour it into a saucepan, with the rinds of three lemons or oranges; stir till the gelatine is dissolved; beat the yolk of three eggs with a pint of good raisin or white wine, add the juice of the fruit, and three-quarters of a pound of lump sugar. mix the whole well together, boil one minute, strain through muslin, stir occasionally till cold; then pour into moulds. aspic jelly. were it not for the trouble of making aspic jelly, it would be more generally used than it is, for it gives not only elegance but value to a number of cold dishes. we have now the means of making this with the greatest ease, rapidity, and cheapness. soak an ounce of nelson's gelatine in a pint of cold water, dissolve it in a pint of boiling water, add a large teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of french vinegar, and the contents of a tin of nelson's extract of meat dissolved in a gill of boiling water. wash the shell of an egg before breaking it, beat up white and shell to a strong froth, and stir into the aspic. let it come slowly to the boil, and when it has boiled two minutes, let it stand for another two minutes, then strain through a flannel bag kept for the purpose. if a stiff aspic is required, use rather less water. how to make a jelly-bag. the very stout flannel called double-mill, used for ironing blankets, is a good material for a jelly-bag. take care that the seam of the bag be stitched twice, to secure the jelly against unequal filtration. the bag may, of course, be made any size, but one of twelve or fourteen inches deep, and seven or eight across the mouth, will be sufficient for ordinary use. the most convenient way of using the bag is to tie it upon a hoop the exact size of the outside of its mouth, and to do this tape should be sewn round it at equal distances. if there is no jelly-bag in a house, a good substitute may be made thus: take a clean cloth folded over corner-ways, and sew it up one side, making it in the shape of a jelly-bag. place two chairs back to back, then take the sewn-up cloth and hang it between the two chairs by pinning it open to the top bar of each chair. place a basin underneath the bag. here is another substitute: turn a kitchen stool upside down, and tie a fine diaper broth napkin, previously rinsed in hot water, to the four legs, place a basin underneath and strain through the napkin. creams. *** the careful housekeeper of modern times has been accustomed to class creams among the luxuries which can only be given on special occasions, both because they take so much time and trouble to make, and because the materials are expensive. it is, nevertheless, possible to have excellent creams made on a simple plan and at a moderate cost. cream of a superior kind is now everywhere to be had in jars, condensed milk answers well, and by the use of nelson's gelatine, and any flavouring or syrup, excellent creams can be made. our readers will find that the method of the following recipes is simple, the cost moderate, and the result satisfactory. a hint which, if acted on, will save time and trouble, may be given to inexperienced persons intending to make creams similar to lemon cream, which is light and frothy. do not add the lemon-juice until the mixture of cream and lemon-juice is nearly cold, and do not commence whipping until it is on the point of setting. delicious and inexpensive creams can be made by dissolving any of nelson's tablet jellies in half the quantity of water given in the directions for making the jelly, and adding cream, either plain or whipped, in the same way as directed for orange cream and cherry cream. lemon cream. soak an ounce of nelson's gelatine in half-a-pint of milk, dissolve it in a pint of boiling milk with a quarter of a pound of lump sugar. when nearly cold, add a gill of lemon-juice and whisk the cream until it is light and sponge-like. then stir in a gill of whipped cream, put into a mould, and let it stand for two or three hours. or, dissolve a pint tablet of nelson's lemon tablet jelly in half-a-pint of hot water. when cool, add to it half-a-pint of cream, and whisk together until on the point of setting, when mould it. strawberry cream. dissolve an ounce of nelson's gelatine, previously soaked in a gill of cold water, in a pint of hot milk. when it is so nearly cold as to be on the point of setting, add half-a-pint of strawberry syrup, and sufficient rose colouring to make it a delicate pink; whisk the cream until it is light and frothy, stir in lightly a gill of whipped cream, then mould it. a good syrup can be made for this cream by putting half-a-pound of strawberry and half-a-pound of raspberry jam into half-a-pint of boiling water, and, after having well stirred it, rubbing it through a fine sieve. the syrup should not be too sweet, and the addition of the juice of one or two lemons, or a little citric acid, will be an advantage. creams, which have cochineal colouring in them, should not be put into tin moulds, as this metal turns them of a mauve shade. breton's rose colouring is recommended, because it is prepared from vegetables, and is free from acid. orange cream. dissolve a pint tablet of nelson's orange tablet jelly in half-a-pint of hot water. when cool, mix with it half-a-pint of cream or milk, and whip together until the cream is on the point of setting. imitation lemon cream. this will be found useful when cream is not to be had. put the thin peel of two lemons into half-a-pint of boiling water, and when it has stood a little, dissolve half-a-pound of loaf sugar in it. when nearly cold, add three eggs, the yolks and whites well beaten together, and the juice of the lemons. strain this into a stewpan, and stir until it is well thickened. after taking from the fire, stir occasionally until cold, then mix into it a quarter of an ounce of nelson's gelatine soaked and dissolved in half a gill of water, also nearly cold. apricot cream. drain the juice from a tin of preserved apricots, add to it an equal quantity of water; make a syrup by boiling with this half-a-pound of lump sugar until it begins to thicken; then put in the apricots and simmer them gently for ten minutes. drain away the syrup, and put both it and the fruit aside separately for use as directed. dissolve an ounce of nelson's gelatine, previously soaked, in a quart of boiling milk lightly sweetened, and, when at the point of setting, put a teacupful of it gently into a mould, then a layer of the apricots; wait a minute or two before putting in another cup of cream, then fill up the mould with alternate layers of fruit and cream. let the cream stand some hours before turning out, and when it is on its dish pour round it the syrup of apricots. pineapple cream. drain the syrup from a tin of pineapple, boil it down to half. cut the best part of the pineapple into neat little squares, pound the remainder, which press through a strainer. make a custard with half-a-pint of milk and three yolks of eggs. measure the quantity of syrup and fruit juice, and dissolve nelson's gelatine in the proportion of half-an-ounce to a pint of it and custard together. mix the gelatine with the custard, then put in the pieces of pineapple, and when it is cold the syrup, the juice, and two tablespoonfuls of whipped cream. have ready a little of nelson's bottled cherry or port wine jelly melted in a fancy mould, which turn round so that it adheres to the sides, and when the first quantity is set, put in a little more. as the cream is on the point of setting, put it into the mould and allow it to stand until firm. when turned out, ornament the cream with the remainder of the bottled jelly lightly chopped. palace cream. make a custard of three eggs and a pint-and-a-half of milk sweetened, when it is ready dissolve in it an ounce of nelson's gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint of milk. when made, the quantity of custard should be fully a pint-and-a-half, otherwise the cream may be too stiff. when the cream is cool, put a little into a mould, previously ornamented with glacã© cherries and little pieces of angelica to represent leaves. the fruit is all the better if soaked in a little brandy, as are the cakes, but milk can be used for these last. put a portion of two ounces of sponge-cakes and one ounce of ratafias on the first layer of cream, keeping it well in the centre, and then fill up the mould with alternate layers of cakes and cream. when turned out, a little liqueur or any kind of syrup can be poured round the cream. fruit cream. strain the juice from a bottle of raspberries and currants on to three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, boil up, then simmer for half-an-hour. mix the fruit and a large tablespoonful of raspberry jam with the syrup, and rub it through a hair sieve. dissolve nelson's gelatine, in the proportion of half-an-ounce to a pint of the fruit, in a little water, stir well together. when cold put it into a border mould, and as soon as it is firm turn out and fill the centre with a cream, which make with half-an-ounce of nelson's gelatine and three gills of milk, sweetened and flavoured with nelson's essence of vanilla. whisk until cool, when stir in a gill of whipped cream. mandarin cream. dissolve half-an-ounce of nelson's gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, in half-a-pint of sweetened boiling milk or cream. dissolve a pint bottle of cherry jelly as directed. when the last is on the point of setting put a layer into a mould, then a layer of the cream, each of these about an inch deep, and fill up the mould in this way. this quantity of material will make two handsome moulds, suitable for a supper party. blanc-mange. to an ounce of nelson's gelatine add half-a-pint of new milk, let it soak for twenty minutes, boil two or three laurel leaves in a pint of cream and half-a-pint of milk; when boiling pour over the soaked gelatine, stir it till it dissolves, add four or five ounces of lump sugar and a little brandy if approved; strain it through muslin, stir occasionally till it thickens, and then put it into moulds. solid syllabub. soak an ounce of nelson's gelatine twenty minutes in three-quarters of a pint of water, add the juice and peel of two large lemons, a quarter of a pint of sherry, five or six ounces of lump sugar; boil the above two minutes, then pour upon it a pint of warm cream, stir it quickly till it boils, then strain and stir till it thickens, and pour it into moulds. charlotte russe. line a plain mould at the bottom and sides with sponge finger-biscuits, fill it with strawberry cream, or cream made as directed in the several recipes. if the weather is warm it will be necessary to place the charlotte on ice for an hour or two, but in the winter it will turn out without this. the biscuits for a charlotte russe should be made quite straight, and in arranging them in the mould they should lap slightly one over the other. baden-baden pudding. dissolve an ounce of nelson's gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, in a pint-and-a-half of boiling milk; when it is nearly cold stir into it an ounce of rice, well boiled or baked; flavour the pudding to taste, and when on the point of setting put it into a mould and let it stand for two or three hours; serve plain or with stewed fruit. cherry cream. dissolve a pint tablet of nelson's cherry tablet jelly in half-a-pint of hot water. when cool, mix with it half-a-pint of cream or milk, and whip together until the cream is on the point of setting. velvet cream. soak three-quarters of an ounce of nelson's patent gelatine in half-a-pint of sherry or raisin wine, then dissolve it over the fire, stirring all the time; rub the rinds of two lemons with six ounces of lump sugar, add this, with the juice, to the hot solution, which is then to be poured gently into a pint of cream; stir the whole until quite cold, and then put into moulds. this can be made with a pint of boiling milk, in which an ounce of nelson's gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, has been dissolved, and flavoured and sweetened. italian cream. take three-quarters of an ounce of nelson's patent gelatine and steep it in half-a-pint of cold water; boil the rind of a lemon, pared thinly, in a pint of cream; add the juice of the lemon and three tablespoonfuls of raspberry or strawberry syrup to the soaked gelatine; then pour the hot cream upon the above ingredients, gently stirring the while. sweeten to taste, and add a drop or two of prepared cochineal. whisk till the mixture is thick, then pour into moulds. cheese and macaroni cream. boil two ounces of macaroni, in water slightly salted, until tender, when drain; cut it into tiny rings, and put it into a stewpan with half-a-pint of milk or cream, keeping it hot on the stove without boiling for half-an-hour. soak and dissolve half-an-ounce of nelson's gelatine in half-a-pint of milk, and when this and the macaroni are cold, stir together, add two ounces of grated parmesan cheese, with salt and cayenne pepper to taste. stir occasionally until the cream is on the point of setting, when mould it. should the cream be absorbed by the macaroni, more must be added to bring the whole quantity of liquid to one pint. if preferred, rice well boiled or baked in milk, or vermicelli paste, can be substituted for the macaroni. coffee cream. dissolve an ounce of nelson's gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, in a pint-and-a-half of boiling milk with two ounces of sugar; stir in sufficient strong essence of coffee to flavour it, and when on the point of setting put it into a mould. chocolate cream. boil a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar in a pint of milk. dissolve in it an ounce of nelson's gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, and stir into it three teaspoonfuls of schweitzer's cocoatina, dissolved in half-a-pint of boiling milk. beat until on the point of setting, and put the cream into a mould. a few drops of nelson's essence of vanilla can be added with advantage. chartreuse of oranges. peel four or five oranges, carefully take out the divisions which put on a hair sieve in a cool place to drain all night. melt a little nelson's bottled orange jelly, pour it into a saucer and dip in each piece of orange, which arrange in a close circle round the bottom of a small pudding-basin. keep the thick part of the orange downwards in the first row, in the next put them the reverse way. continue thus until the basin is covered. pour in a little of the melted jelly, then of cream, made by mixing a quarter of an ounce of nelson's gelatine soaked and dissolved in a gill of milk, into a gill of rich cream, sweetened. fill up the basin with alternate layers of jelly and cream, allowing each of these to set before the other is put in, making the jelly layers last. the chartreuse will turn out easily if the jelly is gently pressed from the basin all round. garnish with two colours of nelson's bottled jelly lightly chopped. fig cream. preserved green figs are used for this cream--those of fernando rodrigues are excellent. place the figs in a plain mould, and pour in gently, when on the point of setting, a cream made with a pint of cream and half-an-ounce of nelson's gelatine, and lightly sweetened. when the cream is turned out of the mould, pour round it the syrup in which the figs were preserved. champagne cream. although this is properly a jelly, when well made it eats so rich that it is usually called cream. it is chiefly used in cases of illness, when it is desirable to administer champagne in the form of jelly. soak half-an-ounce of nelson's gelatine in a gill of cold water, dissolve it in a stewpan with one or two ounces of sugar, according as the jelly is required sweet or otherwise. when cool, add three gills of champagne and two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, whip until it is beginning to set and is light and frothy; put into a mould, and it will be ready for use in two hours, if put in a cold place. orange mousse. rub the zest of the peel of two oranges on to a quarter of a pound of lump sugar, which boil with half-a-gill of water to a thick syrup. beat the juice of three large oranges with two whole eggs, and having whisked them slightly, add the syrup and nelson's gelatine, dissolved, in the proportion of half-an-ounce to a pint of liquid. whisk the mixture over a saucepan of hot water until it is warm, then place the basin in another with cold water and continue whisking until it is beginning to set, when put it into a fancy mould. strawberry trifle. put a layer of strawberry jam at the bottom of a trifle dish. dissolve a half-pint tablet of nelson's raspberry jelly, and when it is set break it up and strew it over the jam. upon this lay sponge finger biscuits and ratafia cakes, and pour over just enough new milk to make them soft. make a thick custard, flavoured with nelson's essence of vanilla, and spread it over the cakes. finally place on the top a handsome quantity of cream, whisked with a little powdered sugar and flavoured with vanilla. whipped cream. to half-a-pint of cream put a tablespoonful of fine sifted sugar, add sufficient of any of nelson's essences to give it a delicate flavour. with a whisk or wire spoon, raise a froth on the cream, remove this as soon as it rises, put it on a fine hair, or, still better, lawn sieve; repeat this process until the cream is used up. should the cream get thick in the whisking, add a very little cold water. put the sieve containing the whisked cream in a basin and let it stand for some hours, which will allow it to become more solid and fit for such purposes as filling meringues. cakes. *** the proper beating of the whites of the eggs is an important matter in cake-making. there are a number of machines for this purpose, which are in turn eagerly adopted by inexperienced persons; but for private use not one of them is comparable to hand-beating. when once the knack of beating eggs is acquired but little labour is needed to bring them to the right consistency; indeed, the most successful result is that which is the most rapidly attained. the whites of eggs for beating should be fresh, and should be carefully separated from the yolks by passing and repassing them in the two halves of the shell. it is best to beat the whites immediately they are broken, but if this is not possible, they must be kept in a cool place until wanted. if ice is at hand, it will be found advantageous to keep the eggs in it. in well-furnished kitchens a copper beating-bowl is provided; it should not be tinned, as contact with this metal will blacken the eggs; for this reason, the whisk, if of iron wire, should not be new. an earthenware bowl with circular bottom, and sufficiently large to admit of a good stroke in beating, answers the purpose perfectly well. a pinch of salt may be added to the whites, and if an inexperienced beater finds them assume a granulated appearance, a little lemon-juice will remedy it. begin by beating gently, increasing the pace as the egg thickens. as it is the air mixing with the albumen of the eggs which causes them to froth, it is necessary to beat them in a well-ventilated and cool place, so that they may absorb as much air as possible. if these simple and important conditions are observed, the whites of a dozen eggs may be beaten to the strongest point, without fatigue to the operator, in five minutes. when the whites are properly beaten they should turn out of the bowl in one mass, and, after standing a little while, will not show signs of returning to their original state. in order more easily to make cakes and biscuits into the composition of which almonds and cocoa-nut enter largely, manufacturers supply both of these pounded or desiccated. it is, however, preferable to prepare the former fresh, and much time and trouble may be saved in passing almonds through kent's combination mincer, 199, high holborn, instead of laboriously pounding them in a mortar. the result is, besides, more satisfactory, the paste being smoother than it can otherwise be made in domestic practice. cakes of the description for which we now give recipes cannot be made well unless the materials are properly prepared and thoroughly beaten. it is clear that if eggs are not beaten to such a consistency that they will bear the weight of the other ingredients, the result must be a heavy cake. currants for cakes, after they have been washed and picked, should be scalded, in order to swell them and make them more tender. put the currants into a basin, pour boiling water over them, cover the basin with a plate; after they have stood a minute, drain away the water and throw the fruit on a cloth to absorb the moisture. put the currants on a dish or plate in a very cool oven, turning occasionally until thoroughly dry; dust a little flour over them, and they will be ready for use. castor sugar for cakes works more easily when it is fine. for superior cakes raw sugar will not answer. pound cake. one pound fresh butter, one pound vienna flour, six eggs (or seven, if small), one pound castor sugar, quarter of a pound almonds cut small, half-a-pound of currants or sultanas, three ounces of candied peel, a few drops of essence of ratafia. the butter to be beaten to a cream. if it is hard warm the pan. add the sugar gradually; next the eggs, which must previously be well beaten up; then sift in the flour; and, last of all, put in fruit, almonds, and flavouring. this cake takes about half-an-hour to mix, as all the ingredients must be well beaten together with an iron spoon from left to right. bake in small tins, for about forty minutes, in a moderate oven. plain pound cake. half-a-pound of fresh butter, three eggs, one pound of vienna flour, one pound of castor sugar, a quarter of a pound of almonds cut small, half-a-pound of currants, three ounces of candied peel, a few drops of essence of ratafia. beat the butter to a cream, from left to right, and mix in the sugar gradually. beat the eggs up, and mix them with half-a-pint of new milk; stir into the butter; then add the flour; and, last of all, the fruit. savoy sponge cake. beat half-a-pound of finely sifted sugar with the yolks of four eggs until you have a thick batter, stir in lightly six ounces of fine dry sifted flour, then the whites of the eggs beaten to a very strong froth. have ready a tin which has been lightly buttered, and then covered with as much sifted sugar as will adhere to it. pour in the cake mixture, taking care the tin is not more than half full, and bake for half-an-hour. lemon savoy sponge. half-a-pound of loaf sugar, rub some of the lumps on the peel of two lemons, so as to get all the flavour from them; dissolve the sugar in half a gill of boiling water; add the juice of the lemons, or one of them if a large size, and beat with the yolks of four eggs until very white and thick; stir in a quarter of a pound of fine flour, beat the whites of the eggs to a strong froth, and mix as thoroughly but as lightly as possible; butter and sift sugar over a mould, nearly fill it with cake mixture, and bake at dark yellow paper heat for thirty minutes. macaroons. beat up a packet of nelson's albumen with three teaspoonfuls of cold water to a strong froth, mix in half-a-pound of finely-sifted sugar and two ounces each of pounded sweet and bitter almonds. flour a baking-sheet, and lay on it sheets of wafer-paper, which can be bought at the confectioner's, and drop on to them at equal distances, a small piece of the paste. bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes, or until the macaroons are crisp and of a golden colour. when done cut round the wafer-paper with a knife, and put the cakes on a sieve to dry. in following recipes for this class of cake some judgment is required in the choice of the sugar, and the result will vary greatly according as this is of the right sort, or otherwise. a little more or less sugar may be required, and only practice can make perfect in this matter. as a general direction, it may be given that the sugar must be of the finest quality, and be very finely sifted, but not flour-like. cocoa-nut cakes. beat up a packet of nelson's albumen with three teaspoonfuls of cold water to a strong froth, mix with it a quarter of a pound of finely sifted sugar, and two ounces of edwards' desiccated cokernut. put sheets of wafer-paper on a baking-tin, drop small pieces of the cake mixture on to it, keeping them in a rocky shape. bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes, or until crisp. chocolate cakes. whisk a packet of nelson's albumen with three teaspoonfuls of cold water to the strongest possible froth, mix in half-a-pound of finely sifted sugar, two teaspoonfuls of schweitzer's cocoatina, and six drops of nelson's essence of vanilla; sift paper thickly with sugar, and drop small teaspoonfuls of the mixture at equal distances on it, allowing space for the cakes to spread a little. bake for ten minutes in a moderate oven. cocoa-nut rock. boil half-a-pound of loaf sugar in a gill of water until it is beginning to return again to sugar, when cool add a packet of nelson's albumen whisked to a strong froth with three teaspoonfuls of water, and stir in a quarter of a pound of edwards' desiccated cokernut. spread the mixture, not more than an inch thick, in a greased pudding-tin, and place in a cool oven to dry. when done cut in neat squares, and keep in tins in a cool, dry place. sugar icing. no icing can be successfully done unless the sugar is of the finest kind, perfectly white, and so finely sifted as hardly to be distinguished by the eye from potato-flour. such sugar can now generally be procured of the best grocers at a moderate price. the process of sifting the sugar at home is somewhat slow and troublesome, but by so doing a perfectly pure article is secured. after being crushed the sugar should be passed through sieves of varying fineness, and, finally, through one made for the purpose, or failing this, very fine muslin will answer. when the sugar has been sifted at home, and it is certain there is no admixture of any kind with it, a small quantity of "fã©cule de pommes de terre" (potato-flour) may be added; it reduces sweetness, and does not interfere with the result of the process. if the sugar is not sifted very fine a much longer time will be required to make the icing, and in the end it will not look so smooth as it ought to do. confectioners use pyroligneous acid instead of lemon-juice, and there is no objection to it in small quantities. to make the icing, beat up a packet of nelson's albumen dissolved with three teaspoonfuls of cold water, work in by degrees one pound of fine icing sugar, adding a teaspoonful of lemon-juice or a few drops of pyroligneous acid, which will assist in keeping the icing white, or a slight tinge of stone-blue will have the same effect. if potato-flour is used, mix it thoroughly with the sugar before adding it to the white of egg. a little more or less sugar may be required, as the result is in great measure determined by the method of the operator; and when the paste is perfectly smooth, and will spread without running, it is fit for use. for icing large cakes confectioners use a stand which has a revolving board, so that cakes can conveniently be turned about; failing this, an ordinary board or inverted plate can be made to answer. as soon as the icing is spread on the cake it must be dried in an oven with the door open. it is sometimes found sufficient to keep the cake in a hot room for some hours. if too great heat is used the icing will crack. almond paste. blanch one pound of sweet and two ounces of bitter almonds, pound them in a mortar, adding a little rose-water as you go on, to prevent oiling; and when all the almonds are reduced to a perfectly smooth paste, mix them with an equal weight of icing sugar. moisten the paste with a packet of nelson's albumen dissolved in three teaspoonfuls of cold water, and spread it evenly on the cake, allowing it to become dry and firm before spreading the icing over it. this paste can be used for making several kinds of cakes and sweetmeats, and without the albumen can be kept in bottles for some time. almond paste can be made from bitter almonds which have been infused in spirit to make an extract for flavouring, and in this case no sweet almonds will be required. beverages. *** among the most useful preparations which have ever been introduced to the public for the immediate production of delicious beverages, are nelson's bottled jellies. these beverages are highly approved for ordinary use at luncheon and dinner, as well as for afternoon and evening entertainments, and have a special value for invalids, as they contain nourishment and are at the same time very refreshing. when required for use, dissolve a bottle of the jelly, and mix with it five times its bulk of water, the beverage can then be used either hot or cold; if in standing it should be slightly thickened it will only be necessary briskly to stir it with a spoon. lemon, orange, and cherry jelly, with the addition of water as directed, will be found superior to any other beverage of the kind, and specially excellent for children's parties. the following "cups" are delicious made with the jelly as directed. claret cup, made merely with seltzer water, claret, and port wine jelly, will be found superior to the ordinary preparation. a little sugar may be added if desired. to a bottle of claret and a pint of seltzer-water use a half-pint bottle of port wine jelly, stir briskly until well mixed, put in a sprig of balm and borage, three thick slices of cucumber; place the vessel containing the claret cup covered over on ice for an hour; strain out the herbs before serving. badminton cup is made with burgundy, in the same way as the above, with the addition of a bottle of orange jelly. champagne cup requires equal quantities of the wine and seltzer-water, with a bottle of orange jelly. cider cup is made with a pint and a half of cider, a bottle of soda-water, and a bottle of either orange, lemon, or sherry jelly. cherry cup.--half-a-pint of claret, a quart of soda-water, and a half-pint bottle of cherry jelly. mulled port wine. dissolve a bottle of port wine jelly and add to it four times its bulk of boiling water with a little nutmeg, and, if liked, a crushed clove. lemonade. half-a-teaspoonful of nelson's citric acid dissolved in a quart of water, with a sliced lemon and sweetened with sugar, forms a good lemonade, and is a cooling and refreshing drink. a small pinch of the citric acid dissolved in a tumbler of water with a little sugar and a pinch of bicarbonate of potash, makes an effervescing draught. these acidulated drinks are exceedingly useful for allaying thirst; and as refrigerants in feverish and inflammatory complaints they are invaluable. lemonade (a new recipe). dissolve three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar and the contents of a threepenny packet of nelson's citric acid in a quart of boiling water; then add two quarts of fresh cold water and one-twelfth part of a bottle of nelson's essence of lemon. the above quantity of sugar may be increased or decreased according to taste. gingerade. crush an ounce of whole ginger, pour over it a quart of boiling water, cover the vessel, and let the infusion stand until cold. (the extract of ginger may be used in place of this infusion). strain through flannel; add a teaspoonful of nelson's citric acid, six drops of nelson's lemon flavouring, and a quarter of a pound of lump sugar; stir until dissolved, and the gingerade will be ready. an extract of ginger for family use. an extract of ginger made as follows is most useful for family purposes, and can be substituted for the infusion in gingerade. crush half-a-pound of fine whole ginger in the mortar, or cut into small pieces. put into a bottle with half-a-pint of unsweetened gin, let it stand for a month, shaking it occasionally, then drain it off into another bottle, allowing it to stand until it has become clear, when it will be fit for use. lemon syrup. boil a pound of fine loaf sugar in a pint-and-a-half of water. remove all scum as it rises, and continue boiling gently until the syrup begins to thicken and assumes a golden tinge, then add a pint of strained lemon-juice or a packet of nelson's citric acid dissolved in water, and allow both to boil together for half-an-hour. pour the syrup into a jug, to each pint add one-twelfth part of a bottle of nelson's essence of lemon, and when cold bottle and cork well. the juice of seville oranges may be made into a syrup in the same way as that of lemons, or lemon and orange juice may be used in equal quantities. these syrups are useful for making summer drinks, and for invalids as lemonade or orangeade. milk beverage. a very agreeable and useful beverage is made by dissolving a quarter of an ounce of nelson's gelatine in a pint of milk. a spoonful of cream can, if preferred, be used with a bottle of soda-water. for invalids, this beverage can be used instead of tea or coffee, and may be preferable in many cases on account of the nourishment it contains; it will also be found an excellent substitute, taken hot, for wine-whey, or posset, as a remedy for a cold. for summer use, milk beverage is delicious, and may be flavoured with raspberry or strawberry syrup. if on standing it should thicken, it will only be necessary briskly to beat it up with a spoon. citric acid. this acid exists in the juice of many fruits, such as the orange, currant, and quince, but especially in that of the lemon. it is chiefly made from the concentrated juice of lemons, imported from sicily and southern italy, and which, after undergoing certain methods of preparation, yields the crystals termed citric acid. these crystals may be used for all the purposes for which lemon-juice is employed. in the manufacture of the citric acid now offered to the public by messrs. g. nelson, dale, and co., only the pure juice of the lemon is used. essence of lemon. this well-known essence is extracted from the little cells visible in the rind of lemons, by submitting raspings of the fruit to pressure. the greater portion of the oil of lemons sold in england is imported from portugal, italy, and france. it is very frequently adulterated with oil of turpentine. in order to present the public with a perfectly pure commodity, g. nelson, dale, and co. import their essence of lemon direct from sicily, and from a manufacturer in whom they have the fullest confidence. nelson's essence of lemon is sold in graduated bottles, eightpence each, each bottle containing sufficient for twelve quarts of jelly. macaroni, etc. *** we now give recipes for a few useful little dishes, chiefly of macaroni, which can be had at such a price as to bring it within the reach of all classes. english-made macaroni can be bought at fourpence, and even less, the pound, and the finest italian at sixpence. the naples, or pipe-macaroni, is the most useful for families, and the genoa, or twisted, for high-class dishes. the english taste is in favour of macaroni boiled soft, and in order to make it so, many cooks soak it. but this is not correct, and it is not at all necessary to soak macaroni. if kept boiling in sufficient water, the macaroni requires no attention--ebullition prevents it sticking to the saucepan. although we give several ways of finishing macaroni, it is excellent when merely boiled in water with salt, as in the first recipe, eaten as an accompaniment to meat, or with stewed fruit. macaroni with cheese. throw a quarter of a pound of macaroni broken into pieces an inch long, into three pints of boiling water, with a large pinch of salt. the saucepan should be large, or the water will rise over when the macaroni boils fast, which it should do for twenty or twenty-five minutes. when done, strain the macaroni through a colander, put it back into the saucepan with an ounce of fresh butter, a small pinch of white pepper and of salt, if necessary, and shake it over the fire for a minute or two. take the saucepan off the fire, and stir into the macaroni two ounces or more, if liked, of grated parmesan cheese. serve immediately with crisp dry toast, cut in neat pieces. if not convenient to use parmesan, a mild dry english or american cheese will answer very well. some cooks prefer, when the macaroni is boiled, to put a fourth part of it on to a hot dish, then to strew over it a fourth part of the grated cheese, and so on till all of both are used, cheese, of course, covering the top. macaroni cheese. boil and drain the macaroni, mix with a quarter of a pound an ounce of butter, and two ounces of grated cheese; pepper or cayenne pepper and salt to taste. put the macaroni in a dish and strew over it sufficient grated cheese to cover it up, run a little dissolved butter over the top, and put it in the oven till it is a bright-yellow colour; serve quickly. macaroni with bacon. boil two ounces of streaky bacon, cut it into dice or mince it, stir it into a quarter of a pound of macaroni boiled as for macaroni cheese: if liked, add a few drops of vinegar, pepper, and salt, and serve very hot. macaroni with onions. boil the macaroni as above, mix with it two or three onions sliced and fried a delicate brown, add a few spoonfuls of gravy, stir over the fire for a few minutes and serve. stewed macaroni. throw a quarter of a pound of macaroni into three pints of boiling water with a teaspoonful of salt, and let it boil for twenty minutes. drain in a colander, then put it into a stewpan with half a tin of nelson's extract of meat dissolved in half-a-pint of water, and stir over the fire for five minutes. take it off the fire and stir in one ounce of grated cheese, pepper and salt to taste. macaroni with tomatoes. prepare the macaroni as in the above recipe, put it into a stewpan with a small piece of butter and a teacupful of tomato sauce, or a small bottle of conserve of tomatoes, and stir briskly over the fire for five minutes. sweet macaroni. boil the macaroni as for the other dishes, but with only a pinch of salt, until tender, when drained put into a stewpan with a gill of milk to each two ounces, and two ounces of sifted lump sugar. any flavouring may be used, but perhaps there is nothing better than grated lemon-peel, and for those who like it, powdered cinnamon or grated nutmeg. stir over the fire until all the milk is absorbed; a little cream is, of course, an improvement. for those who do not like milk, the juice of a lemon, or a little sherry, may be substituted, and for a superior dish vanilla can be used for flavouring. boiled cheese. put four tablespoonfuls of beer into a small saucepan, shred into it a quarter of a pound of good new cheese, and stir briskly over the fire until all is dissolved and is on the point of boiling, then take it off instantly, for, if the cheese is allowed to boil, it will become tough. have ready slices of toasted bread, spread the cheese on it, and serve as quickly as possible. les canapã�s au parmesan. take the crumb of a french roll, cut it into rounds a quarter of an inch thick, put them into a wire frying-basket, immerse in hot fat, and crisp the bread instantly. throw it on to paper, dry, and sprinkle over each piece a thick layer of grated parmesan cheese, pepper, and salt. put the canapã©s in a dutch oven before a clear fire, just to melt the cheese, and serve immediately they are done. rice with parmesan cheese. boil a quarter of a pound of patna rice in water with salt; drain it, toss it up in a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, and a pinch of cayenne pepper. put a quarter of the rice on a hot dish, strew over it equally an ounce of grated parmesan cheese, then put another portion of rice and cheese until all is used. serve immediately. scalloped eggs. take a cupful of finely-sifted bread-crumbs, moisten them with a little cold milk, cream, or gravy, and season nicely with pepper and salt. put a thin layer of the moistened crumbs on a lightly-buttered dish, cut two hard eggs into slices, and dip each piece in very thick well-seasoned white sauce, or nelson's extract of meat dissolved in a little water, so as to glaze the eggs. having arranged the slices of egg neatly on the layer of moistened bread-crumbs, cover them with another layer of it, and on the top strew thickly some pale gold-coloured raspings. bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes. if potatoes are liked, they make a nice substitute for bread-crumbs. take some mashed potatoes, add to them a spoonful of cream or gravy, and proceed as with bread-crumbs. serve gravy made of nelson's extract of meat with this dish. scotch woodcock. melt a small piece of butter the size of a nut in a stewpan, break into it two eggs, with a spoonful of milk or gravy, and pepper and salt, stir round quickly until the eggs begin to thicken, keep the yolks whole as long as you can. when finished, pour on to a buttered toast, to which has been added a little essence of anchovy or anchovy paste, and serve. mushrooms with cream sauce. dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, mix in the yolks of two eggs lightly beaten, the juice of a lemon, and a pinch of pepper and salt, stir this over the fire until thickened. have ready half-a-pint of plain butter sauce, and mix all gradually together, with a small tin of champignons, or about the same quantity of fresh mushrooms chopped and stewed gently for ten minutes in a little broth or milk. stir them with the liquor in which they have stewed into the sauce, and let them stand for a few minutes, then spread the mixture on to neat slices of toasted bread. the sauce must be a good thickness, so that it will not run off the toast, and care must be taken in the first process not to oil the butter or make the sauce lumpy. to boil rice (a black man's recipe). as rice is so often badly cooked, we make no apology for giving the black man's celebrated recipe. although he does not recommend a little salt in the water, we think that a small quantity should always be used, even when the rice has to be served as a sweet dish. "wash him well, much wash in cold water, rice flour, make him stick. water boil all ready, very fast. shove him in; rice can't burn, water shake him too much. boil quarter of an hour or little more. rub one rice in thumb and finger; if all rub away him quite done. put rice in colander, hot water run away. pour cup of cold water on him, put back in saucepan, keep him covered near the fire, then rice all ready. eat him up." to mince vegetables. peel the onion or turnip, put it on the board, cut it first one way in slices, not quite through, lest it should fall to pieces, then cut it in slices the other way, which will produce long cubes. finally turn the onion on its side and cut through, when it will fall into dice-like pieces. the inconvenience and sometimes positive pain caused to the eyes by mincing or chopping the onions on a board is thus obviated, and a large quantity can be quickly prepared in the above way. hints on housekeeping. *** how many people are crying, "how can we save? where can we retrench? shall the lot fall on the house-furnishing, or the garden, or the toilet, or the breakfast or the dinner table? shall we do with one servant less, move into a cheaper neighbourhood, or into a smaller house? no, we cannot make any such great changes in our way of life. there are the boys and girls growing up; we must keep up appearances for their sakes. we remember the old proverb that, 'however bad it may be to be poor, it is much worse to look poor.'" yet, although, for many reasons, it is often most difficult to retrench on a large scale, there are people who find it easier, for instance, to put down the carriage than to see that the small outgoings of housekeeping are more duly regulated. it is seldom, indeed, that a wife can assist her husband save by lightening his expenses by her prudence and economy. too many husbands, nowadays, can vouch for the truth of the old saying, "a woman can throw out with a spoon faster than a man can throw in with a shovel." the prosperity of a middle-class home depends very much on what is saved, and the reason that this branch of a woman's business is so neglected is that it is very difficult and very troublesome. "take care of your pence and the pounds will take care of themselves," is a maxim that was much in use when we were young. nowadays it is more fashionable to speak of this kind of thing as "penny wise and pound foolish." looking to the outgoings of pence is voted slow work, and it is thought fine to show a languid indifference to small savings. "such a fuss over a pennyworth of this or that, it's not worth while." yes, but it is not that particular pennyworth which is alone in question, there is the principle involved--the great principle of thrift--which must underlie all good government. the heads of households little think of what evils they perpetuate when they shut their eyes to wasteful practices, because it is easier to bear the cost than to prevent waste. the young servant trained under one careless how she uses, or rather misuses, that which is entrusted to her, carries in her turn the wasteful habits she has learned into another household, and trains others in a contempt for thrifty ways, until the knowledge of how to do things at once well and economically is entirely lost. we often hear it urged that it is bad for the mind of a lady to be harassed by the petty details of small savings, and that if she can afford to let things go easily she should not be so harassed. but under no circumstances must any mistress of a household permit habitual waste in such matters. when the establishment is so large as to be to a great extent removed from the immediate supervision of the mistress, all she can do is to keep a careful watch over every item of expenditure, and by every means in her power to let her servants feel that it is to their interest as well as to her own to keep within due bounds. a good cook is always a good manager. she makes many a meal of what an inferior cook would waste. the housekeeper should therefore insist on having good cooking at a reasonable cost, and never keep a cook who does not make the most of everything. in a large household a mistress cannot look after the sifting of cinders, but she can check her coal bills, and by observation find out in what department the waste is going on. it may not be possible to pay periodical visits to the gas-meter to see if the tap is turned on to the full when such force is not necessary, but she can from quarter to quarter compare notes, or have fixed, where it is easy for her to get at it, one of the gas-regulators now in use. and thus, by the exercise of judicious control and supervision, the guiding mind of the mistress will make itself felt in every department of the household without any undue worry to herself. the mistress of a small household who has things more under her immediate control, and whose income, no less than her sense of moral obligation, obliges her to look carefully after the outgoings, need not be told what a trial it is to be constantly on the watch to prevent waste. probably she is compelled to leave a certain quantity of stores for general use; indeed, we doubt very much if there is anything saved by the daily giving out of ounces and spoonfuls of groceries, for if a servant is disposed to be wasteful, she will be equally so with the small as the larger quantity. what perpetual worry is caused by seeing how soap is left in the water until it is so soft as to have lost half its value! how many pence go in most households in that way every week, we wonder! the scrubbing-brush also is left in water with the soap. a fairly good brush costs at least two shillings, and as one so treated only lasts half the proper time you may safely calculate that a shilling is soon wasted in that way. brushes of all sorts are, as a rule, most carelessly used, and left about anyhow instead of being hung up. how much loss there is in a year in the careless use of knives and plate! whenever possible both of these get into the hands of the cook. her own tools from neglect or misuse have become blunt or worse, and she takes the best blade and the plated or silver spoon whenever she has a chance. the plate gets thrown in a heap into an earthenware bowl to be bruised and scratched. the knives are either put insufficiently wiped through the cleaner, which is thus spoiled and made fit rather to dirty than clean knives, or they are left lying in hot water to have the handles loosened and discoloured. probably jars, tin boxes, and canisters are provided in sufficient quantity to put away and keep stores properly. but for all that, as it would seem in a most ingenious manner, loss and waste are contrived. raw sugar is kept in the paper until it rots through it. macaroni, rice, and such things are left a prey to mice or insects. the vinegar and sauce bottles stand without the corks. delicate things, which soon lose their fine aroma, as tea, coffee, and spices, are kept in uncovered canisters: the lid is first left off, then mislaid. the treacle jar stands open for stray fingers and flies to disport themselves therein. capers are put away uncovered with vinegar, and when next wanted are found to be mouldy. perhaps the juice of a lemon has been used; the peel, instead of being preserved, is thrown away, or left lying about till valueless. herbs, which should have been at once dried and sifted, are hid away in some corner to become flavourless and dirty, and so on with every kind of store and provision. it is impossible to calculate how many pennies are lost daily, in a large number of houses, by the absolute waste of pieces of bread left to mould or thrown out because trouble to utilise them cannot be taken. whoever thinks anything of the small quantities of good beer left in the jug; it is so much easier to throw it away than put it in a bottle? or who will be at the trouble of boiling up that "drop" of milk, which, nevertheless, cost a penny, and would make, or help to make, a small pudding for the next day? then, again, how many bits of fat and suet are lost because it is too much trouble to melt down the first, and preserve the other by very simple and effectual means? butter in summer is allowed to remain melting in the paper in which it is sent in, or perhaps it is put on a plate, to which some pennyworths of the costly stuff will stick and be lost. one would think it would be as easy at once to put it into cold salted water, if better means of cooling could not be used. if we pause here, it is not because we have exhausted the list of things most woefully wasted, mainly from want of thought, but because we have not space to enumerate more of them. we can only add that the importance of small household savings cannot well be overrated, both because of the principle involved and because of the substantial sum they represent together. there is no need in any household for even a penny a day to be wasted; and yet if we look closely into things, how much money value is lost daily in some one or other of the ways we have mentioned. in the course of the year, the daily pennies mount up to many pounds, and we are sure that it is much safer once in a way lavishly to spend the shillings than to be habitually careless of the outgoings of the pence. although it is not necessary that the mistress of a household who can afford to keep servants should herself do the cooking, or spend much time in her kitchen, it is absolutely necessary that she should understand the best methods, and know how everything should be done. many people will say that it is unbecoming for women to be _gourmands_; we agree with them, and that it is equally unbecoming for men to be so. but to be a _gourmet_ is another thing; and we ought not to lose sight of the fact that food eaten with real enjoyment and the satisfaction which accompanies a well-prepared meal, is greatly enhanced in value. professor c. voit has clearly pointed out, in his experiments and researches into diet, the great value of palatable food as nourishment, and how indispensable is a certain variety in our meals. "we think," he says, "we are only tickling the palate, and that it is nothing to the stomach and digestive organs whether food is agreeable to the palate or not, since they will digest it, if it is digestible at all. but it is not so indifferent after all, for the nerves of the tongue are connected with other nerves and with nerve-centres, so that the pleasure of the palate, or some pleasure, at any rate, even if it is only imagination, which can only originate in the central organ--the brain--often has an active effect on other organs. this is a matter of daily experience. without the secretion of gastric juice the assimilation of nourishment would be impossible. if, therefore, some provocatives induce and increase certain sensations and useful processes, they are of essential value to health, and it is no bad economy to spend something on them." it is surely somewhat singular that englishwomen, who have excelled in almost every other craft, should be remarkable for their want of skill in cookery. they have not been dismayed by any difficulties in literature, art, or science, and yet how few are there among us who can make a dish of porridge like a scotchwoman, or an omelette like a frenchwoman! the fact would seem to be, that educated women having disdained to occupy themselves either theoretically or practically with cookery, those whose legitimate business it has been have become indifferent also. the whole aim of the modern british cook seems to be to save herself trouble, and she will give as much time and thought to finding out ways of doing things in a slovenly manner as would go to doing them properly. no doubt cooks have often so much work of other kinds to do that they cannot give the necessary time to cooking. in a case of this kind, the mistress should herself give such help as she can, and bring up her daughters to help in the kitchen. people in middle-class life often expect the cook to do all the kitchen work, and frequently some of the house work. of course, in small families, this is quite possible to be done, and it is always best for servants, as for other people, to be fully employed. but in large families it is impossible the cooking can be properly done, when the cook is harassed by so many other occupations. thus, because it takes less time and attention than cooking smaller dishes, huge pieces of meat are roasted or boiled daily, and the leg-of-mutton style of dietary is perpetuated--declared to be the most economical, and, in short, the best for all the world. probably it is because bread and butter can be bought ready made, and involve no trouble, that they are held to be the chief necessaries of life in every english household. some children almost live, if they do not thrive, on bread and butter. thoughtless housekeepers think they have done their duty when they have seen that a sufficient supply of these articles has been sent in from the shops. when we insist that everyone should have home-baked bread, at once we shall be met with the "penny-wise" suggestion that home-baked bread costs more than baker's, because, being so nice, people eat more of it. good bread, we need not say, is far more nourishing than that which is made from inferior materials or adulterated even with non-injurious substances for wheaten flour. then all the other difficulties come to the fore: cook spoils the bakings, the oven is not suitable, and so on. to all these we answer: a good housekeeper, one who looks beyond the sum total of her weekly bills, who thinks no trouble too great to provide such food as will maintain the health of her family, will have home-baked bread. there are other points in domestic management which do not receive the attention they deserve. of these we may cite the use of labour-saving machines and of gas for cooking. how often do we hear it said: "i always have such and such a thing done in that way, because it was my mother's way!" this may be very nice and very natural, but it is nevertheless a sentimental reason. what should we think of a person who insisted on riding pillion, because her mother rode pillion? yet, this really is pretty much the same thing as we see every day, when ladies are so wedded to old ways that they persist in employing the rough-and-ready implements of domestic use, the pattern whereof has been handed down from the ark, instead of modern and scientific inventions which save both time and trouble. in no other department of the national life have the people been so slow to adopt simple machinery as in that of the household. it is alleged, in the first place, that labour-saving machines are expensive; in the next place, that servants do not understand them, and that they are always getting out of order. as to the first objection, we would say that as these machines--we speak only, of course, of really good machines--are made, not only with the object of saving labour, but material, the original cost of them is in a short time repaid. as regards the second objection, it seems incomprehensible that servants should not use with care and thoughtfulness machines, which not only save time and trouble, but greatly help in making their work perfect. there is no doubt that by the more general adoption of machinery household work would be much lightened, and that if there were a demand for it, enterprise would be much stimulated, and many more useful helps would be produced. as it is, manufacturers hesitate to bring out new inventions at a great expense, when there is a doubt of securing the appreciation of the public. only the other day we were inquiring for a little machine we had seen years ago, and were told by the maker that, "like many other useful things, it had been shelved by the public, and ultimately lost." let us take the case of making bread at home. by the use of a little simple dough-mixing machine, supplied by kent, 199, high holborn, the operation is easy, quick, cleanly, and certain. we have had one of these in use for more than ten years, and during that time have never had a bad batch of bread. not only in this machine do we make ten to eleven pounds of dough in five minutes, but the kneading is most perfectly done, and there is the great advantage of securing perfect cleanliness, the hands not being used at all in the process. yet we do not suppose that any number of the people who have admired the bread have set up the machine. it cannot be the cost of the machine, as it is inconsiderable, which prevents its more general use, since in households where expense is not an object the primitive process is still in vogue. many people imagine that washing machines are only needed in large families where all the washing is got up at home. but, if ever so small or only an occasional wash is done, there is no exaggerating the comfort and advantage of a machine which washes, wrings, and mangles. so far from injuring linen, machines of the best kind wear it far less than rough hand labour, and with reasonable care it will be found that delicate fabrics are not split in the wringing by a good machine, as they so frequently are by the hand. then there is the case of the knife-cleaning machine. there are families who, instead of using one, employ a boy to ruin their knives by rubbing them on a board with bath brick. they do so, they will tell you, "because machines wear out the knives." the slightest acquaintance with the mechanism of a good knife-cleaning machine should suffice to show that the brushes cannot wear out the knives, whereas the action of the board and brick is the most destructive that can be imagined. the objection of undue wear being disposed of, we are told that the machines soon get out of order, and are a constant expense. of course, with careless usage anything will come to grief, but the fact remains that kent, the leading manufacturer of knife-cleaners, has published a certificate from a lady who has had in constant use, for thirty years, one of his machines, which during that time has required no repairs. as to knives, we know of some which have been cleaned daily for twenty-five years in a machine, and are very little the worse for wear. dressmakers tell us that, but for the sewing machine, an elaborate style of trimming ladies' dresses would be impossible. we know that many inexpensive delicacies, which it is not practicable to have now because of the time and trouble they require, could easily be managed by the use of little articles of domestic machinery. for instance, take potted meat. there is the excellent combination mincer, also kent's, by which this is rapidly and perfectly done, and which enables cooks to use up many scraps of material in a most acceptable way, and without the labour of the pestle and mortar. this machine, however, is but little known. it costs but a sovereign, is useful for all mincing purposes, and makes the best sausages in the world. to make sausages properly, a machine must have an adjustment of the cutters by which the sinews of the meat and bits of skin are retained on them, as nothing is so unpleasant as to find these when eating the sausages. thus it will be seen how necessary it is, in setting up machinery which should last a lifetime, to have the best inventions in the market. not very long ago, a friend asked our opinion on the merits of the different makers of knife-cleaning machines. we explained to her the mechanism of the best of them, pointed out the superior workmanship, and that she should not grudge the money to have one which would do its work properly and be durable. probably under the impression that "in the multitude of counsellors there is wisdom," our friend made further inquiries, and ended by buying a much-advertised machine which, she was assured, was better and cheaper than that of kent, the original patentee. when she had the machine home, and calculated, together with the cost of carriage, her own expenses in going to london to choose it, she found that she had saved exactly eighteenpence, and then that her bargain would not clean the knives! the prejudices which for a long time existed against cooking by gas have gradually cleared away now that improved stoves have been introduced, and the public have experience of its many advantages. there are yet some difficulties to be met in bringing gas into more general use, one of which, the high price charged for it, is beyond the control of the housekeeper, and another, that of teaching servants to be economical and careful in its use. when this last can be overcome, even with the first named drawback, gas will not be found more expensive than coal. the cost of wood, of sweeping the chimney, and the extra wear and tear occasioned by the soot, smoke, and dust of a coal fire, must be calculated in addition to the fuel itself. it will be seen, when we say that the entire cooking for a small family having late dinners, bread baked, and much water heated, is done for something under â£2 a quarter, that gas as a fuel is not so great an extravagance after all. the stove used has the oven lined with a non-conducting substance, which has the advantage of keeping the heat within instead of sending it into the kitchen, as stoves made only of iron plates are apt to do. we have but space to add that the benefit to health, the cleanliness, the saving of time, labour, and temper, to say nothing of the superiority of cooking done by gas in such a stove as has been described, can only be fully appreciated by those who, like the writer, have had twenty years' experience of all these advantages. new zealand frozen mutton. *** the high price at which meat has stood for some years has made it necessary for the working classes to restrict themselves to a scanty allowance of animal food, and this often of poor quality. the difficulty of providing joints of meat for their families has, indeed, also been felt severely by people who are comparatively well-to-do. under these circumstances capitalists have thought it worth a considerable investment of money to discover some means of bringing the cheap and magnificent supplies of new zealand into the english market. after many failures, success has at length crowned the enterprise, and nothing can exceed the perfection in which new zealand mutton is now placed on the english market. it is universally admitted that the meat, both as respects its nutritive value and its flavour, is unsurpassed, while the price is very moderate. the same remarks apply to new zealand lamb. it commences to arrive in january, and is in the height of its season when our english lamb is a luxury which can only be enjoyed by the few. nelson brothers, limited, stand foremost among the importers of this invaluable food supply. the mutton and lamb selected by them is of the highest quality, and their system of refrigeration is perfect. in summer these new zealand meats have a great advantage over the home supply, as although in keeping they may lose colour, they remain good and sweet much longer than english-killed meat. the company have large refrigerating stores under cannon street station capable of holding some 70,000 sheep, and have recently erected stores of _treble that capacity_ at nelson's wharf, commercial road, lambeth, wherein the latest improvements both as regards construction and refrigerating machinery have been adopted, in order to facilitate the development of the frozen meat trade. nelson brothers have also branch offices at- 15_a_, richmond street, liverpool. lease lane, birmingham. lawns lane, leeds. the abattoirs, manchester. baltic chambers, newcastle-on-tyne. tresillian terrace, cardiff. if any of our readers are anxious to try the meat, and are unable to procure it, a postcard to the head office, 15, dowgate hill, london, e.c., or to any of the branch offices, will at once put them in the way of carrying out their desire. as it occasionally happens that from want of some little precaution new zealand meat does not come to table in its best condition, we offer the following hints for the treatment of it: frozen mutton, like that which is freshly killed, requires to be hung a certain time--this is most essential to remember, otherwise the meat eats hard and tough--and it is important to observe, both when hanging and roasting, that it is so placed that the juice shall not run out of the cut end. hind-quarters, haunches, and legs should be hung with the knuckle end downwards; loins and saddles by the flaps, thus giving them a horizontal position. the meat in winter should be kept in the kitchen some time before cooking, and after being exposed for a few minutes to a rapid heat in order to seal up and keep the gravy in the joint, it should be cooked rather slowly, thus taking a little more time than is usually given to english meat. index. *** page albumen, 10 beef tea, 12 " " as a solid, 15 beverages, 93 badminton cup, 94 champagne cup, 94 cherry cup, 94 cider cup, 94 citric acid, 97 claret cup, 93 ginger, an extract of, for family use, 95 gingerade, 95 lemon, essence of, 97 " syrup, 96 lemonade, 94 " (a new recipe), 95 milk, 96 port wine, mulled, 94 blanc-mange, 79 cakes, 85 almond paste, 92 chocolate, 90 cocoa-nut, 89 " rock, 90 macaroons, 89 pound, 87 " plain, 87 savoy sponge, 88 " " lemon, 88 sugar icing, 90 citric acid, 9 creams, 74 apricot, 76 champagne, 83 charlotte russe, 79 cheese and macaroni, 81 cherry, 80 chocolate, 82 coffee, 81 fig, 83 fruit, 78 italian, 81 lemon, 75 " imitation, 76 mandarin, 78 orange, 76 " mousse, 83 oranges, chartreuse of, 82 palace, 77 pineapple, 77 strawberry, 75 " trifle, 84 syllabub, solid, 79 velvet, 80 whipped, 84 essences- almonds, 9 lemon, 9 vanilla, 9 extract of meat, 10 fish, little dishes of, 22 cod cutlets, 26 eels, collared, 30 fish, galantine of, 28 herrings, fried, 27 " rolled, 27 sole, filleted, 24 " fillets of, en aspic, 29 " " fried, 25 " " sautã©s, 25 " " with lobster, 25 " fried, 23 whiting, baked, 26 flummery, dutch, 72 gelatine, 13 " how to use, 64 housekeeping, hints on, 105 jellies, nelson's bottled- calf's foot, 8 cherry, 8 lemon, 8 orange, 8 port, 8 sherry, 8 jellies, tablet, 8 jelly-making, on, 61 jelly, apple, 69 " aspic, 72 " brilliant, 65 " claret, 67 " cocoa, 68 " coffee, 68 " economical, 65 " orange fruit, 69 " oranges filled with, 69 " ribbon, 66 " strengthening, 71 " with fruit, 66 jelly-bag, how to make a, 73 jelly-jubes, 10 lemon sponge, 9, 70 lozenges- gelatine, 9 licorice, 10 macaroni, etc., 98 canapã©s au parmesan, 101 cheese, boiled, 101 eggs, scalloped, 102 macaroni cheese, 99 " stewed, 100 " sweet, 100 " with bacon, 99 " " cheese, 98 " " onions, 100 " " tomatoes, 100 mushrooms with cream sauce, 103 rice, to boil (a black man's recipe), 103 rice with parmesan cheese, 101 scotch woodcock, 102 vegetables, to mince, 104 meat, little dishes of, 31 brain fritters, 35 chicken, brown fricassã©e of, 42 chicken sautã©, 43 " in aspic jelly, 36 croquettes, 44 curry, dry, 44 kidneys, broiled, 39 " sautã©s, 37 " with mushrooms, 38 " with piccalilli, 39 lamb's fry, 40 " sweetbreads, 41 marrow toast, 35 meat cakes ã  l'italienne, 45 mutton, cold, potted, 33 " collops, 33 " cutlets, 31 " pies, 34 " roulades of, 32 " sautã©, 33 ox brain, 34 pork pie, raised, 46 potato hash, 43 sausages, pork, 47 veal ã  la casserole, 41 veal and ham pie, 47 veal cutlets in white sauce, 37 mutton, new zealand frozen, 119 puddings, 50 apple fool, 59 " meringue, 60 baden-baden, 80 brandy sauce, 53 cabinet, 53 capital, the, 57 cheesecake, welsh, 58 chocolate, 56 cocoa-nut, 56 compote of apples with fried bread, 59 compote of prunes, 60 custard, 50 duchess of fife's, 58 fritters, italian, 58 jubilee, 55 natal, 55 omelet, friar's, 58 " soufflã©, 52 pears, stewed, with rice, 60 queen's, 56 raspberry and currant, 57 soufflã©, 51 sponge soufflã©, 53 vanilla rusk, 54 warwickshire, 54 soups, 11, 14 artichoke, brown, 19 beef and onion, 14 beef, lentil, and vegetable, 15 beef, pea, and vegetable, 15 glaze, 21 gravy, 21 hare, 17 julienne, 16 mulligatawny, 18 " nelson's, 14 " thin, 18 rabbit, brown; clear, 17 turtle, 19 " mock, 21 vermicelli, clear, 16 tinned meats, 12 [illustration: trade mark.] *** charles dickens and evans, crystal palace press. [illustration: by royal letters patent.] for first class jellies *** nelson's opaque gelatine should always be used. see recipe, page 65. *** nelson's tablet jellies. _orange, lemon, calf's foot, cherry, raspberry, vanilla, apricot, pear, apple, black currant, pine apple, noyeau, etc._ quarts, 9d.; pints, 6d.; half-pints, 3d. *** wine tablet jellies. _port, sherry, orange._ pints only, 9d. these new jellies are perfectly pure and wholesome, and the flavours excellent, while their exceeding cheapness brings them within the reach of all classes. *** g. nelson, dale, & co., ltd., 14, dowgate hill, london. [illustration: by royal letters patent.] *** nelson's soups. these soups are already thoroughly cooked and seasoned, and can be prepared for the table in a few minutes. *** beef and carrots. beef and celery. beef and onions. mulligatawny. in pint packets, 6d. each. *** beef, peas, and vegetables. beef, lentils, and vegetables. in quart packets, 6d. each. *** penny packets of soup for charitable purposes. *** nelson's extract of meat, for making and improving soups, gravies, beef-tea, etc., etc. *** in ounce packets, 4d. each, and 1 lb. tins, 5s. each. note. one packet is sufficient for a pint of strong soup. *** g. nelson, dale, & co., ltd., 14, dowgate hill, london. [illustration: by royal letters patent.] notice. *** on receipt of postal order for 2/6 a box containing samples of nelson's specialities and a copy of "nelson's home comforts," will be sent, carriage paid, to any address in the united kingdom, by g. nelson, dale, & co., limited, 14, dowgate hill, london, e.c. *** may also be obtained through any grocer at the same price. *** _n.b.--a copy of "home comforts" will be sent, gratis, on receipt of penny postage stamp._ *** g. nelson, dale, & co, ltd., 14, dowgate hill, london. [transcriber's note: minor punctuation errors have been corrected without note. the title page, originally following three pages of advertisements, has been moved to the beginning of the book. the following corrections and changes were also made: *p. 12: fibrine to fibrin (the fibrin of the meat) *p. 17: entrã©e italicized to match other instances *p. 33: liitle to little (season with a little pepper) *p. 122, index: em-dash added to end of jellies, nelson's bottled to match similar entries *p. 124, index: compã´te to compote to match body of text (compote of apples with fried bread, compote of prunes) inconsistencies in hyphenation (e.g. sugar-syrup vs. sugar syrup, overnight vs. over-night) and variant spellings (e.g. omelette vs. omelet) have not been corrected.] the art of cookery _made easy and refined_. [transcriber's notes: text that was superscripted in the original is framed as w^{th.}. spelling in this text is fluid and archaic. changes made are noted in the list at the end of this text.] the art of cookery _made easy and refined_; comprising ample directions for preparing every article requisite for furnishing the tables of the nobleman, gentleman, and tradesman. by john mollard, cook; lately one of the proprietors of freemasons' tavern, great queen street, lincoln's inn fields; now removed to dover street, piccadilly, formerly thomas's. _second edition._ _london_: printed for the author, and sold by j. nunn, great queen street, lincoln's inn fields, and all booksellers in town and country. 1802. _t. bensley, bolt court, fleet street._ preface. the mode of cookery which the author of the following sheets has pursued for a series of years having obtained the most distinguished approbation of the public, has induced him to commit his practice to paper; in doing which, a deviation has been made from the usual introductory methods of other treatises of the kind, in omitting to give particular directions for the choice of fish, meats, poultry, and vegetables, and at what times they respectively might be in season, &c. &c. the author conceiving the simpler method to be the most acceptable: and, therefore, as actual knowledge must ever supersede written forms, he would advise a frequent attendance at the different markets, fully assured that experience will convey greater instruction in marketing than all the theories which could be advanced. there are, nevertheless, some useful observations interspersed in the course of the work for that purpose; the author having confined himself chiefly to the practical part of cookery; he has also given some directions in a branch of the confectionary business: in both of which it has been his constant endeavour that they might be rendered as simple and easy as possible, and that economy might pervade the whole. the receipts are written for the least possible quantities in the different made-dishes and sauces, it being a frequent error in most of the books that they are too expensive and too long; by which means the art has been rendered intricate in the extreme, both in theory and practice. independent, also, of a close adherence to any given rules, there are other qualities essential to the completion of a thorough cook; such as, an acute taste, a fertile invention, and a rigid attention to cleanliness. the preceding hints and subsequent directions, it is hoped, will prove fully adequate to perfection in cookery; the work being entirely divested of the many useless receipts from other professions, (which have been uniformly introduced in books of the like nature,) and nothing inserted but what has an immediate reference to the art itself. there is prefixed a bill of fare for each month in the year, as a specimen of the seasons, which may be altered as judgment directs. there is annexed, also, at the end of the volume, an index, by which, from the first letter or word of the different articles, will be found their respective receipts. february 2d, 1802. contents. page beef stock 1 veal stock, for soups ib. consumé, or the essence of meat 2 cullis, or a thick gravy ib. liquid of colour for sauces, &c. 3 benshamelle 4 to make a passing of flour and butter for cullis or benshamelle ib. soup a la reine 5 crayfish soup ib. vermicelli soup (white) 6 to make a leason ib. cleared brown stock for gravy soups ib. rice soup 7 celery soup 8 turnip soup ib. cressey soup ib. santé, or spring soup 9 onion soup 10 green peas soup ib. old peas soup 11 peas soup another way 12 giblet soup 13 fish meagré soup 14 mock turtle of calf's head ib. mutton broth 15 real turtle 16 callipee 19 glaize for hams, larding, roasted poultry, &c. 20 fish plain boiled, how to be prepared 21 fish generally fried 22 ---to prepare for frying, &c. 23 broiled fish, how prepared ib. -----salmon ditto 24 -----mackarel, common way 25 to stew fish ib. water souchée of perch, flounders, soles, eels, &c. 26 roasted pike or sturgeon ib. bacquillio with herbs 27 entrée of eels 28 -----of soles ib. -----of whitings, &c. 29 -----of salmon ib. -----of smelts, &c. 30 -----of mackarel 31 mackarel the german way ib. olios, or a spanish dish 32 the olio, how to be made 34 hodge podge, or english olio 36 light forcemeat for pies or fowls, &c. 38 forcemeat balls for ragouts, &c. ib. egg for balls 39 omlets of eggs for garnishing or cutting in slips ib. ox cheek 40 beef tails 41 haricot sauce 41 beef collops 42 fillet of beef larded ib. beef palates 43 rump of beef a-la-daube, or braised ib. to make spanish onion sauce 44 savoy sauce ib. ashée sauce 45 brisket of beef with spanish onions ib. ------with ashée or haricot 46 rump of beef a-la mode ib. baked beef 47 marrow bones 48 mutton rumps marinated ib. to make marinate 49 haricot mutton cutlets ib. fillet of mutton with cucumbers 50 stewed cucumbers ib. mutton cutlets with potatoes 51 -----a la maintenon 52 cutlets a la irish stew 53 pork cutlets with red or white cabbage ib. to stew cabbage 54 pork cutlets with robert sauce ib. to make robert sauce 55 pork cutlets another way ib. fillet of pork roasted 56 pigs feet and ears ib. to prepare pigs feet and ears 57 compotte of pigeons ib. pigeons a la craupidine 58 pigeons glaized 59 pigeons a la sousell ib. hashed calf's head 60 breast of veal en gallentine 61 breast of veal ragout ib. neck of veal en erison 62 neck of veal larded 63 veal cutlets larded ib. loin of veal a la cream 64 veal tendrons (brown or white) 65 celery sauce, (white), for veal, chickens, turkies,&c. 66 celery sauce, (brown), for pullets, &c. ib. veal cutlets au natural 67 veal collops (brown) ib. -----------(white) 68 fricando veal 69 sorrel sauce ib. veal olives 70 breast of veal with oysters ib. lamb's head minced 71 breast of lamb with benshamelle 72 breast or tendrons of lamb en matelote ib. -----of lamb with peas 73 to stew peas for sauce, for lamb, veal, chickens, &c. ib. lamb cutlets with cucumbers 74 neck of lamb glaized 75 onion sauce ib. lamb cutlets with tendrons ib. turnip sauce 76 lamb cutlets with tendrons another way 77 shoulder of lamb glaized 77 ---------------en epigram 78 ---------------grilled ib. hind quarter of lamb marinated 79 -------------------with spinach 80 leg of lamb with oysters ib. currie 81 plain rice to be eaten with currie 82 currie of lobster 83 ----of veal ib. -----of mutton ib. pig's head currie 84 directions for roasting ib. soup for a family 85 to prepare a haunch of venison, or mutton, for roasting 86 to roast woodcocks or snipes 87 -------larks 88 to fry breadcrumbs ib. to roast turkies 89 -------rabbits ib. -------hares ib. -------hares another way ib. -------pigeons 90 -------quails, or ruffs and rees ib. -------guinea fowls, pea fowls, pullets, chickens, and turkey poults 91 -------wild fowl ib. -------partridges and pheasants ib. -------green geese and ducklings ib. -------other geese and tame ducks 92 -------a pig 92 -------sweetbreads 93 -------ribs of beef ib. -------fillet of veal ib. observations on meat and poultry 94 stuffing for turkies, hares, veal, &c. ib. gravy for roast meat, steaks, and poultry 95 peloe of rice ib. ------------another way 96 timbol of rice 97 petit patties of chicken and ham 98 patties of lobsters or oysters 99 forcemeat patties ib. pulpton of chicken, rabbits, &c. 100 fishmeagre pie 101 raised ham pie, with directions for making a raised crust 102 raised chicken pie 103 flat chicken pie (or tourte) ib. pigeon pie 104 raised turkey pie with a tongue 105 -----macaroni pie 106 -----beef steak pie ib. veal pie 107 pork pie 108 eel pie 109 mutton pie ib. sea pie 110 rissoles ib. to fry parsley 111 puffs with chicken, &c. ib. wings and legs of fowls with colours 112 ----larded and glaized 113 fowl a la menehout 114 pulled chicken (or turkey) ib. another way 115 pullet a la memorancy ib. chickens with lemon sauce 116 to make lemon sauce ib. fricassee of chickens or rabbits (white) 117 chickens or turkies with celery 118 turkies, pullets, or chickens, with oyster sauce ib. to make white oyster sauce ib. chickens with peas 119, 120 fricassee of chickens or rabbits (brown) ib. to fry oysters for a dish 121 directions for poultry, &c. plain boiled ib. jugged hare 122 glaized hare 123 duck aux naves ib. a duck with cucumbers 124 -----a la benshamelle 125 hashed mutton ib. -----venison 126 -----fowls 127 -----hare, wild fowl, pheasants, or partridges 128 broiled beef steaks ib. beef steak pudding 129 oyster sauce for beef steaks 130 to dress mutton, lamb, or pork chops in a plain manner ib. to dress veal cutlets 131 minced veal for a dish ib. ----------another way 132 partridges or pheasants au choux ib. ----------------------with truffles 133 turkey with truffles 134 truffle sauce for turkies, &c. ib. turkey with chesnuts 135 -----with ragout 136 rabbits with onions ib. glaized sweetbreads 137 matelote of rabbits ib. sweetbreads en erison 138 stewed giblets plain ib. -----with peas 139 green truffles for a dish ib. rabbits en gallentine for a dish 140 ham braised ib. jerusalem artichokes stewed 141 -------------------another way 142 mashed potatoes ib. cauliflower with parmezan cheese 143 ----------a la sauce ib. ----------a la cream 144 stewed artichoke bottoms ib. french beans a la cream for a dish 145 stewed cardoons ib. vegetables in a mould 146 broiled mushrooms 147 stewed mushrooms (brown) and (white) 147, 148 mashed turnips ib. potatoes creamed 149 stewed watercresses ib. a neat dish of vegetables 150 vegetable pie ib. fried potatoes 151 fried onions with parmezan cheese 152 pickle tongue forced 153 stewed endive ib. forced cucumbers 154 to stew peas for a dish ib. salad of asparagus 155 asparagus peas ib. --------another way 156 stewed asparagus for sauce 157 directions for vegetables ib. pickled oysters 158 oyster atlets 159 scollop oysters 160 oyster loaves 161 ragout of sweetbreads (brown) ib. --------------------(white) 162 poached eggs with forrel or endive 163 buttered eggs ib. fried eggs, &c. 164 eggs a la trip 165 omlet of eggs ib. fricassee of tripe 167 lambs tails and ears ib. curried atlets 168 to stew maccaroni 169 stewed cheese ib. to prepare a batter for frying different articles, being a sufficient quantity for one dish 170 fried celery ib. ----peths 171 ----sweetbreads ib. ----artichoke bottoms ib. ----tripe and onions 172 hard eggs fried ib. to dress a lamb's fry 173 --------------------another way ib. puffs with forcemeat of vegetables ib. rammequins 174 to dress part of a wild boar 175 plovers eggs, to be served up different ways 176 buttered lobsters ib. meat cake 177 collared pig 178 red beef for slices 179 savory jelly 180 aspect of fish 181 -----of meat or fowl 182 canopies 183 salmagundy ib. salad of lobster 184 french salad 185 blancmange ib. dutch blancmange 186 riband blancmange 187 cleared calves feet jelly ib. marbrée jelly 188 bagnets a l'eau 189 apple fritters for a dish 190 golden pippins a la cream 191 -------------another way 192 stewed pippins another way 193 cream for pies 193 mince meat 194 compote of oranges 195 tea cream 196 virgin cream 197 coffee cream ib. burnt cream ib. pastry cream 198 almond paste ib. cheese cakes 199 almond nuts 200 to make syllabub ib. trifle 201 tarts or tartlets 202 paste for stringing tartlets ib. to stew apples for tarts 203 fried puffs with sweetmeats 204 pyramid paste ib. icing for a cake 206 cherries in brandy for desserts ib. to make buns 207 orgeat ib. orange marmalade 208 raspberry jam 209 quince jam 210 green gage jam ib. apricot jam 211 preserved apricots for tarts or desserts ib. currant jelly 212 crisp tart paste 213 eggs and bacon another way ib. to make puff paste 214 ------an almond cake 215 almond custards 216 rhubarb tart ib. orange pudding 217 rice pudding 218 tansey pudding 219 almond pudding ib. marrow pudding 220 bread pudding ib. a rich plum pudding 221 batter pudding ib. boiled apple pudding 222 apple dumplings 223 baked apple pudding ib. damson pudding 224 -------------another way ib. baked fruit pudding another way 225 muffin pudding with dried cherries 226 potatoe pudding 227 carrot pudding ib. ice cream 228 observation on stores ib. partridge soup 229 collared eels 230 white puddings 231 sausage meat 232 calf's liver roasted 233 to dry herbs ib. to make anchovie liquor to be used in fish sauces 234 potted lobster ib. to clarify butter for potting 235 potted cheese 236 -----veal 236 -----larks or small birds 237 to dry morells, mushrooms, and champignons 238 mushroom powder ib. potted beef 239 tarragon vinegar ib. walnut ketchup for fish sauces 240 to pickle tongues, &c. ib. india pickle 241 to dry artichoke bottoms 243 to pickle cucumbers, &c. 244 rules to be observed in pickling 245 to pickle onions 246 --------mushrooms ib. --------beet roots 247 --------artichoke bottoms 248 --------large cucumbers 249 --------red cabbage 250 --------currants 251 --------barberries ib. sour crout 252 peas pudding, to be eaten with boiled pork 253 currie, or pepper water 254 grills and sauce, which are generally eaten after dinner 255 salmé of woodcocks 256 to make a haggess ib. french black puddings 257 milk punch 258 plum pottage 259 candied orange or lemon peels 260 lemonade or orangeade 261 poivrade sauce for game, maintenon cutlets, &c. 261 lobster sauce for fish 262 oyster sauce for fish 263 shrimp sauce for fish 264 dutch sauce for fish ib. anchovie sauce for fish 265 observations in respect of fish sauces, &c. ib. apple sauce, for pork, geese, &c. 267 green sauce for ducklings or green geese 268 fennel sauce for mackarel ib. bread sauce, for turkies, game, &c. 269 melted butter ib. to make melon citron 270 rusks, or tops and bottoms 271 wafers ib. cracknels 272 to bake pears 273 to clarify sugar ib. syrup of cloves, &c. 274 ----golden pippins 275 ----capillaire 276 flowers in sugar ib. syrup of roses 277 to preserve cucumbers ib. ----------currants 278 ----------barberries 279 gooseberry fool 280 sago 281 oatmeal pottage, or gruel ib. to bottle gooseberries, &c. for tarts 282 ----------------------another way 283 small cakes ib. diet bread cake 284 sponge biscuits ib. common seed cake 285 cinnamon cakes ib. to make red colouring for pippin paste, &c. for garnishing twelfth cakes 286 twelfth cakes ib. bristol cakes 287 hyde park corner cakes 288 good gingerbread nuts ib. bride cake 289 rice cakes 290 bath cakes 291 pancakes ib. shrewsbury cakes 292 portugal cakes, or heart cakes 293 macaroons ib. mirangles 294 ratafias 295 lemon puffs ib. chantilly basket 296 green codlins, frosted with sugar 297 pound cake ib. yest cake 298 rich plum cake 299 dried cherries 300 pippins with rice 301 to make english bread ib. french bread 302 pulpton of apples 303 a sweet omlet of eggs 304 to keep cucumbers for winter use for sauces ib. to preserve mushrooms for sauces 305 pullet roasted with batter ib. dutch beef 306 mushroom ketchup ib. suet pudding 307 savoy cake 308 nutmeg syrup ib. sweetbreads with veal and ham 309 essence of ham for sauces 310 ox heart roasted ib. slices of cod fried with oysters 311 small crusts to be eaten with cheese or wine after dinner ib. devilled almonds 312 boiled tripe and onions ib. -----sweetbreads 313 broiled sweetbreads ib. conclusion, with remarks 314 errata. page 43, line 1 and 2, for _beef pallets_ read _beef palates_. --- 61, --- 19, ---_half_ read _halves_. --- 77, --- 17, ---_tarragon of vinegar_ read _tarragon vinegar_. ---177, --- 18, ---_pickled_ read _picked_. ---183, --- 19, ---_solomongundy_ read _salmagundy_. [illustration: for january. _1^{st.} course_ _soup santé_ _small ham_ _tendlons veal white_ _slises crimp'd cod_ _m^{d.} & whole potatoes_ _rump beef glaiz^{d} w^{th.} harricott_ _brocoli_ _whitings broil'd_ _pullet w^{th.} oyster sauce_ _raiz'd lamb pies_ _mock'd turtle_ 2^{d.} course _wood cocks roast._ _scollop shells_ _stew'd mushrooms_ _apple fritters_ _triffle_ _shellfish in an ornamented ba^{s.}_ _jelly_ _fry'd puffs w^{th.} sweetmeats_ _stew'd cardoons_ _omlett w^{th.} cullis_ _partridges roast._ neele sc. strand] [illustration: february. _1^{st.} course_ _soup cressey_ _frieandd veal w^{th.} sorrell_ _petite patties_ _tongue w^{th.} m^{d.} turnips_ _fillet mutton roasted w^{th.} celleri_ _chickens boil'd_ _beef pallets_ _cutlets pork w^{th.} stew'd red cabbage_ _rice soup_ _crimp'd seaite_ } } _to remove soup_ _water soucher_ } _2^{d.} course_ _capon roasted_ _golding pippins cream'd_ _lobster sallad_ _forc'd asparagus_ _sweetbread roast_ _forc'd french beans_ _slic'd brawn_ _teal roast_ _ribband blancmange_ _neele sc. strand_] [illustration: march. _1^{st.} course_ _soup and boullie_ _soles fry'd and boild_ _crimp'd cods head_ _soup ala reine_ _2^{d.} course_ _fillet pork roast._ _harricott of begetables_ _potatoes mash'd_ _french pie_ _mash'd turnips_ _veal olives_ _leg lamb and spinach_ _3^{d.} course_ _turkey roast._ _marbree jelly_ _tourte_ _brocoli ala sauce_ _pick'd crabb_ _sausages_ _pyrimid of paste_ _large pidgeons roast._ _pippins w^{th.} rice_ _neele sc. strand_] [illustration: april. _1^{st.} course_ _mock'd turtle_ _tongue boild &c._ _chickens w^{th.} sweetbreads white_ _sallad_ _beef forc'd and roasted w^{th.} oy^{s.} sauce_ _rice_ _currie_ _vermiceli soup_ _cutlets lamb_ _crimp'd salmon & fry'd smelts_ } } _to remove soup_ _stew'd tench_ } _2^{d.} course_ _levrett roast_ _apricot tart w^{th.} carrimel_ _dutch blancmange_ _stew'd cellery_ _prawnes_ _mushrooms broild_ _almond cake_ _ducklings roast._ _apple tart_ _neele sc. strand_] [illustration: may _1^{st.} course_ _giblet soup_ _mullets broild_ _turbot_ _spring soup_ _2^{d.} course_ _haunch mutton roast_ _potatoes each way_ _compotte of pidgeons_ _chickens_ _beef tails stew'd_ _ham glaiz'd_ _vegetable puffs fry'd_ _3^{d.} course_ _green goose roast_ _jelly w^{th.} strawberrys_ _asparagus_ _pine apple tartlets_ _goosberry tart_ _artichoack bottoms_ _white blancmange_ _turkey poults roast_ _ornament w^{th.} flowers_ _neele sc. strand_] [illustration: june. _1^{st.} course_ _green peas soup_ _chicken tourte_ _cutlets mutton_ _cauliflowers_ _roast beef_ _new potatoes_ _tendlons veal w^{th.} peas_ _crimp'd trout_ _lambs head minc'd_ _2^{d.} course_ _duckling roast._ _shellfish_ _cherry tart_ _french beans ala cream_ _sweetbread roast._ _jelly & blancmange_ _neck house lamb roast._ _codling tart cream'd_ _green peas_ _plovers eggs_ _pidgeons roast._ _neele sc. strand_] [illustration: july. _1^{st.} course_ _rabbits w^{th.} onions_ _turtle_ _chickens_ _garden beans_ _calla pash_ _cauliflower_ _small ham glaiz'd_ _turtle_ _fillet lamb w^{th.} cucumbers_ _2 small dishes fish to remove turtle_ _2^{d.} course_ _goosberry cream in cups_ _haunch venison roast_ _apricot tart_ _french beans_ _pick'd crabb_ _artichoak bottoms_ _raspberry tourte_ _poullet roast._ _mirangles_ _neele sc. strand_] [illustration: august. _1^{st.} course_ _soles each way_ _brest lamb w^{th.} celleri_ _pullet w^{th.} oy^{s.}_ _potatoes_ _onion soup_ _stew'd spanish onions_ _fillet beef larded & glaiz'd_ _salmon & fry'd fillets of haddock_ _raiz'd ham pie_ _small chine mutton roasted to remove the soup_ _2^{d.} course_ _wheat ears roast_ _orange puffs_ _jelly w^{th.} peaches_ _scollop shells_ _frame_ _mushrooms stew'd white_ _almond custards_ _levrett roast_ _pulpton of apples_ _neele sc. strand_] [illustration: september. _1^{st.} course_ _a pike baked_ _fricassee of chickens_ _fillet mutton & stew'd endive_ _fry'd celleri_ _turnip soup_ _french sallad_ _fillet pork roast_ _crimp'd cod and fry'd smelts_ _cutlets veal larded_ _2^{d.} course_ _partridges roast_ _ragout of sweetbreads_ _maceroni_ _muffing pud^{g.} w^{th.} dry'd cherries_ _chantillie baskett_ _damson tart_ _eggs ala trip_ _larks roast_ _lambs fry_ _neele sc. strand_] [illustration: october. _1^{st.} course_ _johndoree_ _pidgeons ala craupidine_ _foule w^{th.} trouffles sauce_ _cauliflower_ _partridge soup_ _stew'd spinach_ _chicken puffs_ _trout_ _rump beef w^{th.} spanish onions_ _2^{d.} course_ _wild duck roast_ _raspberry tourte_ _jellys_ _fry'd sweetbreads_ _ribs house lamb roast_ _oyster attets_ _apples frosted_ _pheasant roast_ _marrow pud^{g.}_ _neele sc. strand_] [illustration: november. _1^{st.} course_ _water souchee_ _pickle tongue forc'd_ _raiz'd pie w^{th.} macroni_ _ragout of vegetables_ _soup and boullie_ _cauliflower & french beans_ _chickens w^{th.} bershamelle_ _slices cod fry'd w^{th.} oyster sauce_ _cutlets pork w^{th.} fry'd potatoes_ _loine veale ala cream to remove soup_ _2^{d.} course_ _wood cocks roast_ _fritters_ _coffee cream_ _jerusalem artichoaks_ _potted beef moddled_ _stew'd water cresses_ _preserved apricot tart_ _partridges roast_ _golding pippins w^{th.} jelly_ _neele sc. strand_] [illustration: december. _1^{st.} course_ _turbot_ _leg lamb w^{th.} spinach_ _wings and legs fowles glaiz'd_ _pidgeon tourte_ _hodge podge_ _pickled beet roots_ _pheasant au choux_ _crimp'd cods head_ _small chine mutton roast_ _2^{d.} course_ _turkey roast_ _apple tart w^{th.} perfumed cream_ _potted charr_ _pancakes_ _stew'd cardoons brown_ _jellies_ _lambs tails w^{th.} bershamelle_ _minced pies_ _prawnes_ _potatoe pudding_ _snipes roast_ _neele sc. strand_] the art of cookery. _beef stock._ cut chuck beef into pieces, put it into a pot, set it on the fire, with a sufficient quantity of water to cover it. when it boils skim it clean; add a bunch of parsley and thyme, cleaned carrots, leeks, onions, turnips, celery, and a little salt. let the meat boil till tender, skim off the fat, then strain it through a fine hair sieve. _veal stock, for soups._ take a leg of veal and some lean ham, cut them into pieces, put them into a pan with a quart of water, some peeled carrots, turnips, onions, leeks, and celery; draw them down till nearly tender, but of no colour; then add a sufficient quantity of beef stock to cover the ingredients, boil all together one hour, skim it free from fat, and strain it. some game drawn down with it will make it excellent. n. b. i have directed the veal stock not to be drawn down to a colour, as in that state it will answer two purposes; first, for white soups; and, secondly, as it might be coloured with a bright liquid to any height, which will be directed for gravy soups. it frequently happens, likewise, that, if not strictly attended to, it will burn. _consumé, or the essence of meat._ reduce veal stock to a good consistence, but be careful not to let it colour. _cullis, or a thick gravy._ take slices of ham, veal, celery, carrots, turnips, onions, leeks, a small bunch of sweet herbs, some allspice, black pepper, mace, a piece of lemon-peel, and two bay leaves; put them into a pan with a quart of water, and draw them down till of a light brown colour, but be careful not to let it burn; then discharge it with beef stock. when it boils, skim it very clean from fat, and thicken it with flour and water, or flour and butter passed. let it boil gently three quarters of an hour; season it to the palate with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and salt; strain it through a tamis cloth or sieve, and add a little liquid of colour, which may be made as in the following receipt. _liquid of colour for sauces, &c._ put a quarter of a pound of the best brown sugar into a frying pan very clean from grease, and half a gill of water; set it over a gentle fire, stirring it with a wooden spoon till it is thoroughly burnt and of a good bright colour, then discharge it with water; when it boils skim it and strain it. put it by for use in a vessel close covered. _benshamelle._ take white veal, lean ham, turnips, celery, onions cut in pieces, a blade of mace, a little whole white pepper; sweat them down till three parts tender, then discharge it with beef stock. let it boil, skim it clean, and thicken with flour and water, or flour and butter passed; add to it a sufficient quantity of cream to make it quite white. let it simmer gently half an hour, and strain it through a tamis cloth. n. b. let it be of the thickness of light batter. _to make a passing of flour and butter for cullis or benshamelle._ put fresh butter into a stewpan over a fire, when it is melted add a sufficient quantity of sifted flour to make it into a paste, and mix them together with a whisk over a very slow fire for ten minutes. _soup a la reine._ take three quarts of veal stock with a blade of mace boiled in it; then strain it to the crumb of four penny french rolls, three quarters of a pound of sweet almonds blanched and pounded very fine, likewise the white meat of dressed fowl pounded. let all simmer together for ten minutes, and rub them through a tamis cloth till the soup is of a proper thickness; season it to the palate with salt; make it boil, and serve it up with a gill of cream in it. _crayfish soup._ take three quarts of veal stock, the crumb of four penny french rolls, the meats of a hen lobster, and half a hundred crayfish pounded, with some live lobster spawn; add all together, make it boil, skim it clean, rub it through a tamis cloth, make it of a middling thickness, and season to the palate with salt and a little cayenne pepper. serve it up with crust of french bread cut into small round pieces. _vermicelli soup, white._ take three quarts of veal stock and two ounces of vermicelli, boil them together a quarter of an hour, rub it through a tamis cloth, season with salt, make it boil, skim it, and add a leason. let it simmer for five minutes. _to make the leason._ take the yolks of four eggs, half a pint of cream, and a little salt, mixed well together. _cleared brown stock for gravy soups._ take three quarts of veal stock perfectly free from fat; add a small quantity of liquid colour to make it of a fine brown; season to the palate with salt and a little cayenne pepper; beat up together two yolks, two whites, and two shells of eggs; whisk them with the stock, set it over a fire, let it boil gently ten minutes, then strain it through a tamis cloth. this stock is required for rice, brown vermicelli, celery, santé, or turnip soups. n. b. i have directed the brown stock, for gravy soups only, to be cleared with eggs, as that method has been most approved, it being pleasant to the eye, and equally agreeable to the palate. _rice soup._ add to three quarts of cleared stock two ounces of rice, washed, picked, parboiled, and drained dry. let it boil gently till the rice is tender. _celery soup._ cut celery heads two inches long then, some of the white part into small pieces; wash, blanch, and drain it, and put to it three quarts of cleared stock. make it boil, skim it, and let the celery simmer till tender. _turnip soup._ pare good and firm turnips, cut them with a knife or scoop into shapes, fry them with a bit of lard till of a light brown colour, then drain and wipe them free from fat (or they may be steamed with a very little water, to prevent them from burning, till they are half done); then put to them cleared stock, and boil them gently till tender. _cressey soup._ take twelve large red carrots, scrape them clean, cut off only the red part in thin slices, and put them in a stewpan with a quart of water; add cleaned turnips, celery, leeks, and onions, cut in pieces, and half a pint of split peas. stew all together till tender, adding some stock to prevent burning; then rub it through a tamis, and put to the pulp five pints of veal stock and some blanched water-cresses; make it boil for twenty minutes, skim it, season it with salt, and serve it up. n. b. to be the thickness of peas soup. _santé, or spring soup._ pare, and cut into shapes, turnips and carrots, likewise celery heads about two inches long; wash them, and steam them separately with a very little water till they are three parts done; then cut the white part of the celery into small pieces, likewise leeks, cabbage, cos lettuces, endive, and chervil, of each a small quantity; blanch and drain them dry, then put all the vegetables together; add to them three quarts of cleared brown stock, and boil them gently till tender. in spring add young green peas, tops of asparagus, and button onions, steamed as the above. n. b. a small piece of bouillie beef may be stewed till tender; and ten minutes before it is to be served up wipe it dry, and put it into the soup with the vegetables. _onion soup._ take eight middling-sized peeled onions, cut them into very thin slices, pass them with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter and flour till tender; then add three quarts of veal stock; make it boil twenty minutes; skim it, season it with salt, and add a leason; mix it well with a whisk, make it simmer, and serve it up. _green peas soup._ take one quart of young green peas, four turnips pared and cut in the form of dice, two cos lettuces cut in small slices, two middling-sized onions cut very fine; wash them, add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and stew them till nearly done. then take two quarts of large fresh green peas, and boil them in three quarts of veal stock till tender; strain and pound them, preserving the liquor; then rub the peas through a tamis, and add the pulp with the liquor to the above herbs, a little flour and water, pepper and salt, and season to the palate, with a bit of sugar if approved. boil all together half an hour; skim it and when it is to be served up, add the pulp of some boiled parsley rubbed through a tamis to make it look green. n. b. cut pieces of bread into thin sippets, dry them before the fire, and serve up on a plate. _old peas soup._ take chuck beef cut into pieces, knuckles of ham and veal, pickle pork cut into square pieces of half a pound each; put all into a pot with peeled turnips, leeks, onions, carrots, and celery, cut into slices, and some old split peas, with a sufficient quantity of water; when it boils, skim it, and add a very small bunch of dried mint. let the ingredients boil till tender, then take the mint out, rub the soup through a tamis till of a good thickness; when done, add to the liquor, turnips cut in form of dice, celery and leeks cut small and washed. make the soup boil, skim it, season with pepper and salt, and serve it up with the pork in it. some bread cut in form of dice, and fried, to be served up on a dish. n. b. the pork to be taken out when nearly done, and added to the soup half an hour before it is served up. _peas soup another way._ put the peas with the above-mentioned vegetables into a pot with some water; stew them gently till tender, then add a little dried mint, and rub them through a tamis cloth; put the pulp to some good veal stock, likewise add some turnips pared and cut into forms like dice, some leeks and celery cut small and blanched; season to the palate with pepper and salt; then making it boil, skim it, and stew the herbs till tender. serve it up with pieces of pickle pork in it. n. b. the pickle pork to be cut into small square pieces and boiled till nearly done, and then added to the soup a quarter of an hour before it is to be served up to table. let the soup be of a proper thickness. _giblet soup._ let the giblets be scalded, picked clean, and cut in pieces; which done, put them in a stewpan, season them with herbs and spice, the same as for real turtle; add some veal stock, stew them till nearly done, pick them free from the herbs, chop the bones down, strain, thicken, and season the liquor, as for real turtle; make it boil, then add it to the giblets, stew them till tender, and serve them up with egg and forcemeat balls. _fish meagré soup._ take pieces of different sorts of fish, such as salmon, skate, soles, &c. sweat them till tender, with turnip, onion, celery, a clove of garlick, and a blade of mace; then add some plain veal broth. let all simmer together for half an hour; then strain and skim it free from fat; season with salt and cayenne pepper; clear it with white of eggs, and colour with a little saffron. n. b. it may be served up with celery or rice in it. _mock turtle of calf's head._ take a scalp cleaned by the butcher, scald it for twenty minutes, then wash it clean, cut it into pieces two inches square, add a gallon of veal stock, and boil them till nearly done. have ready some pieces of veal cut in form of dice, but four times larger, seasoned with herbs, spices, and onions, the same as real turtle; and strain to it the liquor the scalp is boiled in. let the meat simmer till almost done; pick it, and add to it the scalp with forcemeat and egg balls; then thicken the liquor as for real turtle, and when it boils skim it clean, put it to the meats, and simmer all together half an hour. _mutton broth._ take a neck of mutton cut into pieces, preserving a handsome _piece_ to be served up in the tureen. put all in a stewpot with three quarts of cold beef stock, or water with a little oatmeal mixed in it, some turnips, onions, leeks, celery cut in pieces, and a small bunch of thyme and parsley. when it boils skim it clean, and take the _piece_ of mutton out when nearly done, and let the other boil till tender; then have ready turnips cut in form of dice, some leeks, celery, half a cabbage, and parsley, all cut small, and some marigolds; wash them, strain the liquor of the meat, skim it free from fat, add it to the ingredients, with the _piece_ of mutton, and a little pearl barley if approved; season with salt, simmer all together till done, and serve it up with toasted bread on a plate. _real turtle._ hang the turtle up by the hind fins, and cut off the head overnight; in the morning cut off the fore fins at the joints, and the callipee all round; then take out the entrails, and be careful not to break the gall; after which cut off the hind fins and all the meat from the bones, callipee and callipash; then chop the callipee and callipash into pieces; scald them together, the fins being whole, but take care not to let the scales set. when cleaned, chop the fins into pieces four inches long; wash the pieces of the callipee, callipash, and fins, and put them into a pot with the bones and a sufficient quantity of water to cover; then add a bunch of sweet herbs and whole onions, and skim it when the liquor boils. when the fins are nearly done take them out, together with the remainder of the turtle, when done, picked free from bone. then strain the liquor and boil it down till reduced to one third part; after which cut the meat into pieces four times larger than dice; put it into a pot, add a mixture of herbs chopped fine, such as knotted marjoram, savory, thyme, parsley, a very little basil, some chopped onions, some beaten spices, as allspice, a few cloves, a little mace, black pepper, salt, some veal stock, and the liquor that was reduced. boil the meat till three parts done, pick it free from herbs, strain the liquor through a tamis sieve, make a passing of flour and three quarters of a pound of fresh butter, mixing it well over a fire for some time, and then add to it madeira wine, (if a turtle of seventy pounds weight, three pints,) and the liquor of the meat. when it boils, skim it clean, season to the palate with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and salt, and strain it to the pieces of fins and shell in one pot, and the lean meat into another; and if the turtle produce any real green fat, let it be boiled till done, then strained, cut into pieces, and added to the fins and shell, and then simmer each meat till tender. when it is to be served up, put a little fat at the bottom of the tureens, some lean in the center, and more fat at the top, with egg and force-meat balls, and a few entrails. n. b. the entrails must be cleaned well, then boiled in water till very tender, and preserved as white as possible, and just before they are strained off add the balls. if a callipash is served up, the shell to be cut down on each side, and chop the pieces for the soup; the remaining part of the back shell to be pasted round with a raised crust, egged, ornamented, and baked, and the soup served in it in the same manner as in the tureens. _callipee._ take a quarter of the under part of a turtle of sixty pounds weight, and scald it, and when done, take the shoulder-bone out and fill the cavity with a good high-seasoned forcemeat made with the lean of the turtle; put it into a stewpan, and add a pint of madeira wine, cayenne pepper, salt, lemon juice, a clove of garlick, a little mace, a few cloves and allspice tied in a bag, a bunch of sweet herbs, some whole onions, and three quarts of good beef stock. stew gently till three parts done; then take the turtle and put it into another stewpan, with some of the entrails boiled and some egg balls; add a little thickening of flour and butter to the liquor, let it boil, and strain it to the turtle, &c. then stew it till tender, and the liquor almost reduced to a glaize. serve it up in a deep dish, pasted round as a callipash, ornamented and baked. n. b. i think the above mode of serving it up in a dish the best, as it frequently happens that the shell of the callipee is not properly baked. _glaize for hams, larding, roasted poultry, &c._ take a leg of veal, lean of ham, beef, some indifferent fowls, celery, turnips, carrots, onions, leeks cleaned and cut into pieces, a little lemon peel, mace, and black pepper, a small quantity of each; add three quarts of water, sweat them down till three parts done, discharge with water, and boil it till the goodness is extracted; then skim it, and strain the liquor into a large pan. next day take the fat from it very clean; set the stock over a fire, and when warm clear it with whites and a few yolks of eggs; then add a little colour and strain it through a tamis; boil it quick till reduced to a glaize, and be careful not to let it burn. n. b. in the same manner may be made glaize of separate herbs or roots, which will be serviceable on board a ship, or in the country, where herbs or roots cannot be procured at all times; and they are to be preserved in bottles, as they will not, when cold, be of a portable substance. _fish plain boiled to be prepared thus:_ put them in clean boiling pump water well salted, and when served up to be garnished with fresh picked parsley and scraped horseradish; except salt fish, which should be properly soaked, then cut in pieces and put in cold water, and when it boils let it simmer six or eight minutes, and serve it up on a napkin with boiled parsnips and potatoes round, or on a plate, and egg sauce in a boat. n. b. fish should be chosen very fresh and of good appearance, it adding as much to their beauty as gratifying to the palate when dressed, there being in my opinion but two sorts--good and bad. but as an exception to the above observation, skate will be better for eating if kept for one or two days in a cool place before it is dressed. _fish generally fried._ pieces of skate. whitings. fillets of haddocks. smelts. soles. perch. flounders. slices of hollibut. slices of cod. _to prepare the above for frying, &c._ wipe the different sorts of fish dry, beat yolk of eggs, and spread it over them with a paste brush; then put crumbs of bread over the egg. have plenty of lard in an iron frying pan, and when it almost boils put a proper quantity and fry them of a fine gold colour; drain them dry, and serve them up with fried parsley. n. b. the crumbs to be rubbed through a hair sieve. the parsley also to be picked, washed, and dried with a cloth, then to be put into the lard not very hot, and fried of a green colour. sprinkle a little salt over. _broiled fish prepared thus:_ wipe the fish dry, flour them well, and have the gridiron clean; then rub the bars with a veal caul, and put the fish at a proper distance. broil them gently over a clear coal fire till of a fine colour, and serve them up directly. n. b. fish in general to be floured, except herrings, which are only to be scored with a knife, and the following methods of broiling other fish to be observed. _broiled salmon to be prepared thus:_ take pieces or slices of salmon, wipe them dry, dip them in sweet oil, and season with pepper and salt; fold them in pieces of writing paper, broil over a clear fire, and serve them up very hot. n. b. in the same manner are to be done red mullets, &c. _broiled mackarel, common way._ wipe them dry, split them down the back, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and broil them gently. _to stew fish._ add to some cullis a few chopped eshallots, anchovies, a bay leaf, horseradish scraped, a little quantity of lemon peel, and some red port; season it well with cayenne pepper, salt, and juice of lemon, and when it boils let it be of a proper thickness, and strain it to the fish; then stew it gently, and serve it up in a deep dish with the liquor, and fried bread round it. if carp or tench, some of the hard roe mixed in batter and fried in pieces. the roes likewise of different fish may be stewed in the same manner, and served up as a dish of themselves. eels, soles, or other fish may be done the same way. _water souchée of perch, flounders, soles, eels, &c._ take perch cleaned and fresh crimped; put them into boiling pump water well-seasoned with salt, and when they boil, skim them clean. take them out with a large skimmer, put them into a deep dish, strew parsley roots and scalded parsley over, and add some of the liquor. serve them up as hot as possible, with slices of brown bread and butter on a plate. n. b. the time the fish are to boil must be according to their size; and the parsley roots are to be cleaned, cut into slips, and boiled by themselves till tender. _roasted pike or sturgeon._ let the fish be well cleaned, then make a stuffing of capers, anchovies, parsley and thyme chopped fine, a little grated nutmeg and lemon peel, pepper, salt, breadcrumbs, fresh butter, and an egg. fill the fish and sew it up; turn it round, and fasten the head with the tail; then egg the fish over and breadcrumb it; after which bake or roast it gently till done, and of a good brown colour. serve it up with a sauce over, made of cullis, fresh butter, cayenne, anchovie essence, and lemon pickle. _bacquillio with herbs._ let the fish be well soaked; then boil them and pick free from bone. wash and chop small some spinach, sorrel, green onions, and parsley; after which add fresh butter, essence of anchovies, cayenne pepper, and plenty of the juice of seville oranges. sweat the herbs down, add the fish, and simmer them till tender. _entrée of eels._ take good-sized eels, bone and cut them in pieces of three inches long; pass them over a slow fire in a small quantity of sweet herbs and eshallots, fresh butter, pepper, salt, and lemon juice. when three parts done put all on a dish, dip each piece in the liquor, breadcrumb, and broil them over a clear fire. serve them up with anchovie sauce in a boat. _entrée of soles._ let good-sized soles be cleaned and filletted; roll them up, put them into a stewpan, add a little fresh butter, lemon juice, pepper, and salt, and simmer them over a slow fire till done. serve them up with a sauce over, made of button onions, mushrooms, egg balls, pickle cucumbers scooped round, slices of sweetbreads, and good strong cullis coloured with lobster spawn. n. b. the above fillets may be fried, and served up with the sauce round. _entrée of whitings, &c._ take fillets of haddocks or whitings, wet them with whites of eggs, and lay upon them slices of salmon, seasoned with pepper and salt. put them into a stewpan with a little fresh butter; stew the fish over a slow fire till done, with the pan close covered. serve them up with a sauce over, made with chopped parsley, chopped mushrooms and eshallots, a little rhenish wine, mustard, and cullis, mixed and boiled together for ten minutes. _entrée of salmon._ make white paper cases, and put a little sweet oil at the bottom of each. cut into pieces some fresh salmon, pepper and salt them, and put them into the cases; then set them over a fire on a baking plate and in a stewpan covered over, with a fire at top and bottom. when broiled enough, serve them up with poached eggs on the top of the salmon, and anchovie sauce in a boat. _entrée of smelts, &c._ clean, turn round, and fry of a good colour, some fresh smelts; then three parts boil a slice of fresh crimped cod cut two inches thick; pull it into flakes, have ready some benshamelle, whisk it with the yolks of two eggs, add the flakes of the cod, season with salt and lemon juice to the palate, and simmer the fish over a slow stove till done. serve it up with the fried smelts round the dish, and a few over the stew. _entrée of mackarel._ split them down the back, season with pepper and salt, and lay a sprig of fennel in them. broil them gently, and when served up, the fennel to be taken out, and a mixture of fresh butter, chopped parsley, green onions, pepper, salt, and plenty of lemon juice to be put in its stead. _mackarel the german way._ split them down the back and season with pepper and salt; broil them, and serve them up with the following sauce in a boat:--pick and wash fennel, parsley, mint, thyme, and green onions, a small quantity of each. boil them tender in a little veal broth; then chop and add to them some fresh butter, the liquor, a grated nutmeg, the juice of half a lemon, a little cayenne pepper and salt. let it boil, and make it of a proper thickness with flour and water. _olios, or a spanish dish._ the articles that are wanted consist of the following: viz. leg of mutton of ten pounds. leg of veal ditto. chuck beef ditto. lean ham six pounds. best end of a neck of mutton. breast of veal, small. two pieces of bouillie beef of one pound each. two pair of pigs feet and ears. a bologna sausage. a fowl. a pheasant. two partridges. two ruffs and rees. two quails. two teal. two pigeons. two rabbits. one hare. two stags tongues. one quart of burgonza peas. turnips. carrots. celery. onions. leeks. parsley. thyme. garlick. allspice. cloves. mace. nutmegs. black pepper. haricot roots. fried bread. eggs. saffron, and lemons. _the olio to be made as follows:_ take the beef, veal, mutton, and ham; cut them into pieces, put them into a pot, cover with water, and when it boils skim clean; then add carrots, celery, turnips, onions, leeks, garlick, parsley, and thyme, tied in a bunch; allspice, cloves, nutmeg, black pepper, mace, and a little ginger, put in a cloth. boil all together till it becomes a strong stock, and strain it. then cut the breast of veal into tendrons, and best end of neck of mutton into steaks, and half fry them; pigs feet and ears cleaned; hare cut into joints and daubed with bacon; bouillie beef tied round with packthread; poultry trussed very neat, with the legs drawn in close; the tongues scalded and cleaned; and the rabbits cut into pieces. when the different articles are ready, blanch and wash them, then braise each in a separate stewpan, with the stock that was strained. when the different things are braised enough, pour the liquors from them into a pan, leaving a little with each to preserve from burning. when they are to be served up, skim the liquor very clean, and clear it with whites of eggs; then cut turnips and carrots into haricots, some button onions peeled, and heads of celery trimmed neat; after which blanch them, cut the bologna sausage into slices, boil the burgonza peas till three parts done, then mix all together, add some of the cleared liquor, and stew them gently till done. the remainder of the liquor to be coloured with a little saffron, and served up in a tureen with a few burgonza peas in it. when the olio is to be served up, take a very large deep dish, make several partitions in it with slips of fried bread dipped in whites of eggs, and set it in a slow oven or before a fire; then lay the tendrons, birds, beef, mutton, fowls, &c. alternately in the partitions, and serve up with the haricot roots, &c. over. n. b. the whole of the liquor to be seasoned to the palate with cayenne pepper and lemon juice. [this receipt for a spanish olio is only written to shew how expensive a dish may be made, and which i saw done. as a substitute i have introduced the following english one, which has been generally approved; and i think, with particular attention, it will exceed the former in flavour.] _hodge podge, or english olio._ take four beef tails cut into joints, bouille beef two pieces about a quarter of a pound each, and two pieces of pickle pork of the same weight. put them into a pot, cover with water, and when it boils skim clean, and add half a savoy, two ounces of champignons, some turnips, carrots, onions, leeks, celery, one bay leaf, whole black pepper, a few allspice, and a small quantity of mace. when the meats are nearly done, add two quarts of strong veal stock, and when tender take them out, put them into a deep dish, and preserve them hot till they are to be served up; then strain the liquor, skim it free from fat, season to the palate with cayenne pepper, a little salt, and lemon juice, and add a small quantity of colour; then have ready turnips and carrots cut into haricots, some celery heads trimmed three inches long, and some whole onions peeled. let them be sweated down, till three parts tender, in separate stewpans, and strain the essences of them to the above liquor; clear it with whites of eggs, strain it through a tamis cloth, mix the vegetables, add the liquor to them, boil them gently for ten minutes, and serve them over the meats. _light forcemeat for pies or fowls, &c._ cut in pieces lean veal, ham, and fat bacon; add chopped parsley, thyme, eschallots, a little beaten spices, juice of lemon, pepper and salt, a few cleaned mushrooms, or mushroom powder. put over a slow fire till three parts done; then pound in a marble mortar till very fine, and add a sufficient quantity of yolk of raw eggs and breadcrumbs to bind it. _forcemeat balls for ragouts, &c._ cut lean veal and beef suet into small pieces, and add chopped parsley, thyme, marjoram, savory, eschallots, pepper, salt, breadcrumbs, a little grated nutmeg, and yolk of raw eggs. pound all well together, and roll into balls. n. b. the balls should be boiled or fried before they are added to any thing. _egg for balls._ boil six eggs, take the yolks, pound them, and add a little flour and salt, and the yolks of two raw eggs. mix all well together, and roll into balls. they must be boiled before added to any made dish or soup. _omlets of eggs for garnishing or cutting in slips._ take eggs, break them, and put the yolks and whites into separate pans; beat them up with a little salt, and then put them again into separate earthen vessels rubbed with sweet oil. have ready a pot of boiling water over a fire, put them in close covered, and let the omlets steam till thoroughly done. _ox cheek._ bone and wash clean the cheek; then tie it up like a rump of beef, put it in a braising pan with some good stock (or water); when it boils, skim it, add two bay leaves, a little garlick, some onions, champignons, celery, carrots, half a small cabbage, turnips, a bundle of sweet herbs, whole black pepper, a little allspice and mace. let the cheek stew till near done, then cut off the strings, put the cheek in a clean stewpan, strain the liquor through a sieve, skim off the fat very clean, season with lemon juice, cayenne pepper and salt, add a little colour, clear it with eggs, strain it through a tamis cloth to the cheek, and stew it till tender. _beef tails._ cut the tails into joints, and blanch and wash them; then braise them till tender, drain them dry, and serve them up with haricot sauce over. _haricot sauce._ take clean turnips and carrots, and scoop or cut them into shapes, some celery heads cut about two inches long, button onions peeled, some dry or green morells, and artichoke bottoms cut into pieces. let them all be blanched in separate stewpans till three parts done; then drain and put them all together with some small mushrooms stewed, and a good cullis well-seasoned, and simmer the vegetables till done. _beef collops._ take the fillet from the under part of a rump of beef, cut it into small thin slices, and fry them till three parts done; then add to them slices of pickle cucumbers, small mushrooms stewed, blanched oysters, some good-seasoned cullis, and stew them till tender. _fillet of beef larded._ take a fillet or piece of a rump, force it and lard it with bacon, turn it round like a fillet of veal, roast it, glaize the top, and serve it up with the following sauce made with cullis, lemon pickle, and ketchup; add likewise some scalded celery heads and button onions; then stew till tender, and put the sauce round the beef. _beef pallets._ scald and scale the pallets clean, and boil them till tender; when cool roll them up with forcemeat in the middle, and tie them with thread; braise them as white as possible and serve them up with a sauce made of ham, breast of fowl, pickle cucumbers, omlets of eggs, and good-seasoned cullis or benshamelle. n. b. the ham, &c. are to be cut in the form of dice, and the omlets made as omlets for garnishing. _rump of beef a-la-daube, or braised._ bone a rump of beef and daub it with slips of fat bacon, seasoned with sweet herbs, eschallots, beaten spices, pepper, and salt. bind it round with packthread, and braise it till tender; then wipe it dry, glaize the top, and serve it up with the sauce round. either spanish onion sauce, or savoy, haricot, or ashée sauce may be used. n. b. it may be served with the sauce either plain or daubed. _to make spanish onion sauce._ braise six spanish onions with the beef till three parts done; then peel them, and add some good cullis, seasoned with cayenne pepper, salt, lemon juice, and a little sifted lump sugar, and stew them till tender. _savoy sauce._ cut some savoys in quarters, blanch them, and then tie them round and braise them with the beef till half done. take them out of the liquor, cut off the string, and put them into a stewpan with good strong cullis, and simmer them till tender. _ashée sauce._ take some pickle cucumbers chopped small, then capers, parsley, eschallots, breast of a fowl, lean of ham, carrots, and yolks and whites of eggs. then add to them a good-seasoned cullis and a little mushroom ketchup. simmer all together a quarter of an hour. n. b. the ham, fowl, egg, and carrot to be boiled before they are chopped. _brisket of beef with spanish onions._ to be done in the same manner as the rump, but not to be daubed with bacon. _brisket of beef with ashée or haricot._ to be done in the same manner as the preceding. _rump of beef a-la mode._ bone the rump, daub it with slips of fat bacon seasoned with sweet herbs, beaten spices, and pepper and salt. bind it round with packthread, put it into a braising pan, cover it with some veal stock, make it boil, skim it, and add a pint of red port, some onions, turnips, celery, a few bay leaves, garlick, champignons, a few whole allspice, and a little mace. let it stew till nearly done; then take it out of the liquor, cut off the strings, wipe it dry, and put it into a clean stewpan. then strain the liquor, skim the fat off clean, season with cayenne, salt, a gill of vinegar, lemon pickle, and a small quantity of juice of lemon; add a little colour, clear it with whites of eggs, and strain it through a tamis cloth to the beef. stew it gently till done, and serve it up in a deep dish. n. b. to the liquor, when cleared with eggs and strained, may be added some passing of flour and butter, by way of thickening, if approved. the reason for clearing the liquor is, that it will make it appear bright either thickened or plain. _baked beef._ bone a leg of beef, wash it clean, chop plenty of parsley, a middling quantity of thyme, eschallots, marjoram, savory, and a little basil. then mix them together, and add a small quantity of beaten allspice, mace, cloves, pepper, and salt. rub the beef well with the ingredients, set it in an earthen pan, put to it a gill of vinegar, half a pint of red port, eight middling-sized whole onions peeled, two bay leaves, a few fresh or dried champignons. let the meat remain till next day; then add a sufficient quantity of water to it, cover the pan close, and bake the meat till tender. _marrow bones._ chop the bones at each end so as to stand steady; then wash them clean, saw them in halves, set them upright in a saucepan with water, and boil them two hours. serve them up very hot, and with fresh toasted bread. _mutton rumps marinated._ clean and cut the rumps of an equal length, and lay them in a pan and the marinate liquor for a whole night; then pass them in butter till nearly done. lay them on a dish to cool, wash them over with yolk of egg, and breadcrumb them. fry them gently in boiling lard till done, and of a nice colour. drain them dry, and serve them up with a very good-seasoned cullis sauce and ketchup in it. n. b. in the same manner may be done mutton steaks. _to make marinate._ take a little gravy, vinegar, salt, whole black pepper, a few bay leaves, onions sliced, a clove of garlick, and a little thyme. boil all together and strain it. _haricot mutton cutlets._ cut a loin or best end of a neck of mutton into steaks, trim them neat, and fry them till three parts done, and of a nice colour. put them into a stewpan, add a little liquor to preserve them from burning, and simmer till tender. lay the steaks round in a dish, and serve them up with haricot sauce over. n. b. the essence that the steaks were stewed in to be strained, skimmed clean from fat, and added to the sauce. _fillet of mutton with cucumbers._ take the best end of a neck of mutton, cut off the under bone, leaving the long ones on; then trim it neat, lard it, or let it remain plain; roast it gently, glaize it, and serve it up with cucumber sauce under. _stewed cucumbers._ take fresh gathered cucumbers, pare them, cut them into shapes if seedy, or slices if young. put them into a stewpan, and add a little salt, vinegar, and an onion. simmer them over a fire till nearly done and the liquor reduced, or fry them with a bit of fresh butter, and add a good strong cullis. let the cucumbers stew till done, and serve them up with the mutton, which may be roasted with larding (or plain). n. b. the cucumbers may be served as an entrée of itself, and fried bread put round them. _mutton cutlets with potatoes._ cut a loin of mutton into steaks, beat them with a chopper, and trim them neat. pass them in sweet herbs, eschallots, pepper, salt, and lemon juice. when nearly done, lay them on a dish till almost cool, and then egg, breadcrumb, and fry them in boiling lard till of a light brown colour. place the steaks round in a dish, leaving a cavity in the center, which is to be filled up with potatoes, and the sauce under the steaks. n. b. the potatoes to be peeled, scooped, or cut into shapes. then fry them of a light colour, and put them before the fire till wanted; and add to the sauce the steaks were passed in, a little cullis and ketchup; then strain and reduce it almost to a glaize. _mutton cutlets a la maintenon._ get the best end of a loin of mutton, take off the under bone, and cut it into chops; beat them, and trim them neat; then add to them a bit of fresh butter, chopped parsley, thyme, eschallots, pepper, salt, a little pounded mace, and lemon juice. pass them till nearly done; then lay them on a dish, pour the liquor over the chops, and, when nearly cool, breadcrumb, and put them separately in oiled white paper; fold them up, broil them over a slow fire, and serve them up with hot poivrade sauce in a boat. n. b. see _poivrade sauce_ receipt. _cutlets a la irish stew._ get the best end of a neck of mutton, take off the under bone, and cut it into chops; season them with pepper, salt, a little mushroom powder, and beaten mace. put them into a stewpan, add a large onion sliced, some parsley and thyme tied in a bunch, and a pint of veal broth. simmer the chops till three parts done, then add some whole potatoes peeled, and let them stew till done. serve it up in a deep dish. n. b. let the parsley and thyme be taken out when the stew is to be served up. _pork cutlets with red or white cabbage._ take a piece of back pork, cut it into chops, beat and trim them, season with pepper and salt, broil them gently till done and of a light brown colour. serve them up with stewed red or white cabbage under. _to stew cabbage._ cut the cabbage into slips, and blanch and drain them dry. put them into a stewpan, with a bit of fresh butter, pepper, salt, an onion, some vinegar, half a pint of veal broth, and a little allspice tied in a cloth. stew the cabbage gently till done and the liquor nearly reduced, and then take the spice and onion out. _pork cutlets with robert sauce._ get a piece of back pork, or the best end of a loin, and take off the under bone; then cut the chops neat, season with pepper and salt, broil them gently, and serve them up with the sauce underneath. _to make robert sauce._ take some cullis, a bay leaf, an onion sliced, a blade of mace, a little mustard, and a gill of rhenish wine. boil all together a quarter of an hour, strain it, and reduce it nearly to a glaize. _pork cutlets another way._ trim the chops neat as above, pass them with a bit of fresh butter, chopped eschallots, pepper, salt, and a little lemon juice. when nearly done, breadcrumb and broil them till of a light brown colour. serve them up with the following sauce placed underneath; that is to say, cullis, mushroom, ketchup, lemon pickle, and mustard, a little of each, and reduce nearly to a glaize. _fillet of pork roasted._ take a piece of back pork, cut the chine bone from the under part, and lay it in a marinate all night. when it is to be roasted run a lark spit through, tie it on another spit, cover it with paper, and roast it gently; and when to be served up, if not coloured enough, glaize it lightly, and put some robert sauce underneath. _pigs feet and ears._ take prepared feet and pass them, with chopped parsley, thyme, eschallots, pepper, salt, and lemon juice. when done, breadcrumb and broil them gently. let the ears be cut in slices, and add cullis well-seasoned; then stew them for ten minutes, and serve them up with the feet over. _to prepare pigs feet and ears._ scald and clean them; then split the feet and tie them round with packthread; put them in a pot covered with water; make it boil, skim it clean, and add a little garlick, thyme, eschallots, onions, bay leaves, whole black pepper, allspice, mace, salt, and udder of veal. braise them till tender, and put them in an earthen pan for use. _compotte of pigeons._ cut off the pinions, draw the legs in close, colour the breast in boiling hot lard, and then blanch and wash them; which done, put them in a stewpan, add a little veal broth, and simmer them gently till nearly done, and then make a ragout of blanched sweetbreads, button mushrooms, truffles, morells, artichoke bottoms, egg balls, cullis, and the liquor of the pigeons strained, and season well to the palate. let the ingredients stew for ten minutes, then add them to the pigeons, and serve up all together in a deep dish. _pigeons a la craupidine._ cut off the pinions, draw in the legs, cut the breast so as to lay back, then pass them with sweet herbs, mushrooms, eschallots chopped fine, a little fresh butter, grated nutmeg, lemon juice, pepper, and salt. let them simmer till nearly done; then lay them on a dish, and when nearly cool, egg with yolk of eggs, and strew them with crumbs of bread rubbed through a fine hair sieve. fry them of a light colour in boiling hot lard (or broil them). serve them up with a good cullis and sharp sauce underneath. _pigeons glaized._ put some good-seasoned forcemeat in the pigeons, cut off the pinions, lay back the legs, blanch them, and roast them gently with vine leaves and bards of fat bacon over them. when they are to be served up glaize the top part, and serve them with cullis sauce, or celery heads, or asparagus tops, &c. under them. _pigeons a la sousell._ bone the legs and wings of four pigeons and draw them in; then fill them with a high-seasoned forcemeat, and braise them in a half pint of veal stock. when done enough, take the pigeons out, wipe them dry, glaize the top, and serve them up with stewed sorrel underneath. n. b. the liquor they were braised in to be strained, skimmed free from fat, and reduced almost to a glaize, and added to the sorrel. (or they may, when three parts done, be wiped dry, egged and breadcrumbed over, then fried in boiling lard, and served up with sorrel sauce underneath as above). _hashed calf's head._ take a head, without the scalp, chopped in half; wash and blanch it, peel the tongue, cut it in slices, and likewise the meat from the head. add blanched morells and truffles, egg and forcemeat balls, stewed mushrooms, artichoke bottoms, and well-seasoned cullis. let the meat stew gently till nearly done, and then add slices of throat sweetbreads. when it is to be served up, put round the hash the brains and rashers of bacon; and, if approved, half the head to be put on the top, which is to be prepared thus:--one half of the head when blanched to be done over with yolk of raw egg; then season with pepper and salt, strew with fine breadcrumbs, bake till very tender, and colour with a salamander if requisite. the brains to be egged and rolled in breadcrumbs, and fried in boiling lard. the rashers of bacon to be broiled. _breast of veal en gallentine._ bone the veal and lay a light forcemeat over it, and upon that some slips of lean ham, pickle cucumbers, fat bacon, and omlets of eggs white and yellow. roll it up tight in a cloth, tie each end, and braise it till tender. when it is to be served up, take it out of the cloth, wipe it dry, and glaize the top; then put under it stewed sorrel or stewed celery heads, or ragout. _breast of veal ragout._ take off the under bone and cut the breast in half, lengthways; then cut them in middling-sized pieces, fry them in a little lard till of a light brown colour, wipe them dry, put them into a stewpan with half a pint of veal stock, simmer them till nearly done and the liquor almost reduced; then add blanched morell, truffles, slices of throat sweetbread, egg balls, artichoke bottoms, a little ketchup, and some cullis; season to the palate with cayenne pepper and salt, and a little lemon juice. let all stew together till done. _neck of veal en erison._ cut off the scragg and the under chine bone, then lay a light forcemeat on the top of the veal about half the way, and wash it with whites of eggs with a paste brush, and work a sprig or any other device as fancy directs, with pickle cucumber, ham, breast of fowl, omlets of eggs white and yellow, boiled carrots, and some capers. put the veal into a stewpan, add a little stock, and stew it gently till tender, taking care the ornament is not disturbed. when it is to be served up glaize the plain part, and put under a cullis sauce with asparagus or peas. n. b. in the same manner may be done heart sweetbreads. _neck of veal larded._ take off the under bone of a neck of veal, leave only a part of the long bones on; trim it neat, lard it, and roast it gently with a veal caul over. ten minutes before it is done take off the caul, and let the veal be of a very light colour. when it is to be served up glaize it, and put under some sorrel sauce, celery heads, or asparagus tops. _veal cutlets larded._ cut the best end of a neck of veal into chops, leaving only a part of the long bone; then lard, blanch, and braise them; and when they are to be served up, drain, dry, glaize, and place them round each other in a dish, and put green truffle sauce, or white mushroom sauce, in the center. _loin of veal a la cream._ take the best end of a loin of veal, joint it, and cut a little of the suet from the kidney; cause it to lay flat, and then make an incision in the center of the top part about three inches deep and six inches long. take the piece out, chop it, add to it the suet or beef marrow, parsley, thyme, green truffles, mushrooms, eschallots, lemon peel, chopped very fine, and season it with pepper and salt, and a little beaten spice. put all together into a marble mortar, add the yolks of two eggs, and a little french bread soaked in cream; then pound the ingredients well, and fill the cavity with the forcemeat, and cover it with a piece of veal caul; after which tie it down close and cover the whole with a large piece of caul, roast it gently, and when it is to be served up, take off the large piece of caul, let it colour a little, glaize it lightly, and put under it a benshamelle or a ragout of sweetbreads, &c. n. b. in the same manner may be done a fillet of veal instead of plain stuffing. _veal tendrons (brown or white)._ take a breast of white veal, cut off the under bone and the top skin; then cut it into three long slips, and the slips again into pieces of two inches thick; blanch and put them into a stewpan, then add a little water, bards of bacon, and slices of lemon. braise them till tender, drain them dry, and serve them up with green truffle sauce, or celery, asparagus, or peas. the sauce to be served over the veal. _celery sauce, (white), for veal, chickens, turkies, &c._ cut celery heads three inches long, trim them, wash and blanch them, drain them dry, add a little stock, boil them till nearly done, and the liquor almost reduced; then put to them some benshamelle, and, if approved, five minutes before the sauce is put over the meat or poultry, add a leason of two yolks of eggs and cream. _celery sauce, (brown,) for pullets, &c._ dress celery heads as above, but instead of benshamelle add a good cullis only. n. b. the above sauces may be served up in dishes with fried bread round the celery heads, as an entrée of itself. _veal cutlets au natural._ cut the best end of a neck of veal into chops, trim off the bone, pass the steaks with a bit of fresh butter, chopped parsley, thyme, and eschallots, and season with pepper, salt, and lemon juice. when nearly done, lay them on a dish with the liquor; and when cool, egg, breadcrumb, and broil them gently. serve them up placed round each other, with a sauce in the center made with cullis, a little ketchup, lemon pickle, and artichoke bottoms cut into pieces. _veal collops (brown)._ cut veal cutlets (taken from the fillet) into small thin pieces, and fry them in a little boiling lard till of a light brown colour. drain them dry, put them into a stewpan, add cullis, stewed mushrooms, some blanched truffles, morells, pieces of artichoke bottoms, some slices of throat sweetbreads, and egg balls. let them simmer over a slow fire till tender, season to the palate, and serve them up with rashers of broiled bacon round them. _veal collops (white)._ cut the collops as for brown, but instead of frying, put them into a stewpan with a bit of fresh butter, a little lemon juice, and a blade of mace. simmer them till nearly done, then strain the liquor to some benshamelle, and add the collops with some slices of throat sweetbreads, some cocks combs blanched, egg balls, pieces of artichoke bottoms, and stewed white mushrooms. let them stew gently, season to the palate with salt, and make the sauce of a sufficient thickness to adhere to the ingredients. n. b. five minutes before the collops are to be served up a leason may be added of eggs and cream. _fricando veal._ cut off a long or round piece of veal from the leg, beat it flat with a chopper, and make an incision in the under part. put into it a little light forcemeat, sew it up, lard the top part with pieces of fat bacon very neat, blanch it, put it into a stewpan with a little stock, and cover it close; then let it stew till very tender, and the liquor nearly reduced. when it is to be served up glaize the larding, and put stewed sorrel under. n. b. the forcemeat, if not approved, may be omitted; and instead of only one piece of veal, three or four small pieces may be served on a dish. _sorrel sauce._ wash clean, squeeze and chop fine, plenty of sorrel, and put it into a stewpan with a bit of fresh butter; stew it till the liquor is almost reduced, and then add a little strong cullis. let the sauce be of a good thickness. _veal olives._ cut thin bards of fat bacon of six inches long and four broad, lay upon them very thin slices of veal of the same dimensions, wash the veal with yolk of egg, and put upon it some light forcemeat. then roll them up, run a lark spit through sideway of each olive, tie a string over them to prevent their falling off, trim each end with a sharp knife, roast them gently, and froth and serve them up with a cullis sauce under _breast of veal with oysters._ cut off the under bone of a breast of white veal, and the skin from the top; then blanch and braise it, or roast it gently till very tender with a veal caul over. when it is to be served up take off the caul, glaize the top of the breast, and put round it white oyster sauce. (see receipt for _oyster sauce_.) _lamb's head minced._ chop the head in halves, and blanch it with the liver, heart, and lights. then chop the heart, &c. and add to them a little parsley chopped very fine, a small quantity of shredded lemon peel, and some cullis; then stew it gently till done, and season to the palate. wash the head over with yolk of egg, season it with pepper and salt, strew fine breadcrumbs over, and bake it gently till very tender. when it is to be served up, colour it with a salamander, put the mince under, and the brains fried round it, with rashers of broiled bacon. n. b. to prepare the brains, clean them in warm water, wipe them dry, dip them in yolk of egg, breadcrumb, and fry them in boiling lard. _breast of lamb with benshamelle._ take off the under bone, then blanch and put it into a stewpan, with parsley, thyme, and eschallots, chopped very fine, a bit of fresh butter, pepper, salt, a little essence of anchovie, and lemon juice. let it simmer over a slow fire till nearly done; then lay it on a dish, and, when almost cool, egg and breadcrumb it, broil it over a slow clear fire till tender, and let it be of a nice brown colour. serve it up with a benshamelle sauce under. _breast or tendrons of lamb en matelote._ cut the breast into two long slips, trim off the bone and skin, cut them into small pieces, blanch and boil them in a little stock and lemon juice. when nearly done, add peeled and half-boiled button onions, pieces of pickle cucumber cut of the same size, a few button mushrooms stewed, some slices of throat sweetbreads, blanched omlet of egg (the same kind as for garnishing) cut into pieces the form of dice, and lean ham cut in the same manner; then add a cullis or benshamelle. when it is to be served up, put sippets of fried bread round. _breast of lamb with peas._ cut off the under bone, and then blanch and braise it. when it is to be served up, glaize the top and put the stewed peas under. _to stew peas for sauce: for lamb, veal, chickens, &c._ to a quart of shelled young green peas add two ounces of fresh butter, a very little sifted sugar, and some salt. put them into a stewpan, cover it close, simmer the peas till nearly done, then add some good-seasoned cullis, and stew them till tender. _lamb cutlets with cucumbers._ take the bone from a loin of lamb, cut it into chops, beat them flat with a chopper, and trim off some of the fat. pass them with a piece of fresh butter, chopped parsley, thyme, eschallots, lemon juice, and pepper and salt. when three parts done, put them on a dish, and, when nearly cool, egg, breadcrumb, and fry them in boiling lard till of a light brown colour. drain them dry, place them round each other in the dish, and serve them up with the cucumber sauce in the center. n. b. in the same manner may be done mutton and veal cutlets. _neck of lamb glaized._ cut the scragg and the chine bone from a neck of house lamb; then take off the skin, trim part of the fat away to lard the neck lengthways, blanch it, and braise or roast it gently with a veal caul over. when it is to be served up, glaize the larding, and put round it white onion sauce made thus: _onion sauce._ take boiled onions, rub them through a hair sieve; then add to them fresh butter, cream, flour, salt, a very little of each, and let it stew five minutes. _lamb cutlets with tendrons._ cut a neck of house lamb into chops, leaving only the long bone; then beat them flat, and pass them with parsley, thyme, eschallots, chopped very fine, and add a little lemon juice, mushroom powder, pepper, and salt. when they are three parts done lay them on a dish, and when half cold breadcrumb them and broil them on a stewpan cover over a slow fire with a bit of fresh butter. when they are to be served up, put in the center of the dish some braised tendrons of the breast of lamb, and round them the cutlets, and turnip sauce over the center. _turnip sauce._ pare four turnips, sweat them with a little water till they are done and the liquor reduced, then rub them through a tamis sieve. add to them a small quantity of benshamelle, and then cut some more turnips in shapes as for a haricot. sweat them in the like manner, and add the benshamelle to them. _lamb cutlets with tendrons another way._ the tendrons may be served in the center of the dish, with the cutlets larded, braised, and glaized, to go round them; and the sauce made in the same manner, but instead of benshamelle add cullis. _shoulder of lamb glaized._ bone a shoulder of house lamb, then season it with pepper, salt, mushroom powder, and beaten spice; fill the cavity with some light forcemeat; sew it up, and make it in the form of a leg of lamb; after which blanch it, and braise in a little stock and bards of fat bacon. when it is done wipe it dry, glaize it, and serve it up with sorrel sauce under; or a strong cullis sauce with a little tarragon of vinegar in it. _shoulder of lamb en epigram._ roast a shoulder of lamb till three parts done, and let it stand till cold; then take the blade-bone out with the meat, leaving only the skin whole in the form of a fan. cut the meat into slips, add to it parsley, thyme, eschallots, and mushrooms, chopped fine, some good-seasoned cullis, and a little lemon pickle. let it stew gently for a quarter of an hour; and let the fan of the shoulder and the blade bone be broiled, and served up over the stew. _shoulder of lamb grilled._ roast it till three parts done, then score it with chequers, season with pepper and salt, and grill it gently till done. let it be of a light brown colour, and serve it up with a sauce over it made with cullis, ketchup, lemon juice, and a bit of fresh butter. _hind quarter of lamb marinated._ bone the leg, fill the cavity with a light forcemeat well-seasoned, sew it up and lard the top part of the quarter with slips of fat bacon. when done, take a quart of veal stock, half a gill of vinegar, whole black pepper, some salt, two bay leaves, three onions cut in pieces, a little garlick, and half a pint of rhenish wine. boil all the ingredients together a quarter of an hour, put the lamb into a deep dish, and strain the liquor to it. let it lay five or six hours, turn it several times, then roast the lamb gently with a veal caul over it. when it is nearly done, let it colour a little and glaize the top. serve it up with a sauce under it, made with the above liquor boiled down almost to a glaize, with some cullis added. n. b. in the same manner may be done a shoulder or leg of lamb. _hind quarter of lamb with spinach._ boil the leg, preserve it as white as possible, serve it up with spinach under, and the steaks round it very hot. the loin to be cut into chops, and seasoned with pepper and salt; then fried or broiled. pick and boil the spinach till nearly done; then strain and squeeze it dry, chop it, and add a little piece of fresh butter, pepper, and salt, a little cullis or cream, and let it stew for five minutes. n. b. the spinach may be served up as a dish with fried bread round it. _leg of lamb with oysters._ bone the leg, fill the cavity with light forcemeat, and some blanched and bearded oysters pounded with it. sew it up, put over it slices of lemon, salt, bards of fat bacon, and paper. roast it gently, and when it is to be served up, glaize it, and put a sauce round it made with oysters blanched and bearded, stewed mushrooms, boiled button onions, some cullis, and the oyster liquor they were blanched in. season to the palate with cayenne and lemon juice. _currie._ cut two young chickens into pieces, and blanch and drain them dry; then put them into a stewpan with two table spoonfuls of currie powder and a gill of veal stock, and stew them gently till half done. then cut into slices three middling-sized onions, and put them into a stewpan with a table spoonful of currie powder, a quart of veal stock, two ounces of jordan almonds blanched and pounded fine, and boil till the onions are tender; then rub it through a tamis sieve to the chicken, and season to the palate with cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon or tamarind juice. let the chickens stew till three parts done, then pour the liquor into another stewpan, and add three ounces of fresh butter, a very little flour and water, and reduce it to three gills. strain it through a tamis sieve to the chickens, and let them simmer till tender. n. b. rabbits may be done in the same manner. _plain rice to be eaten with currie._ pick one pound of rice, and wash it very clean; then have ready some boiling water and put the rice in. let it simmer till three parts done, and strain and wash it in several waters till free from slime. drain it in a large hair sieve, and when dry put it into a stewpan with some paper and the cover over it. set it in a moderate oven for one hour and a half, or longer, if there be a greater quantity. _currie of lobster._ boil lobsters till three parts done, and pick and cut the claws and tails into good-sized pieces; then add currie powder, and proceed with the same directions as with the chickens, only pound the body of the lobsters and spawn, if any, and add them to the almonds and other ingredients. _currie of veal._ cut a piece of breast of veal into tendrons, and fry them in a little lard till of a light colour; then drain them dry, add currie powder, and proceed with the same directions as for chicken currie. _currie of mutton._ take three pounds of the best end of a loin of mutton, cut off the bone and some of the fat; then cut the meat into small square pieces, fry them, and proceed with the same directions as for veal. _pig's head currie._ take a young porker's head, cleave it in half, blanch and wash it, then cut it into small thick pieces, fry them, and dress in the same manner as veal and mutton; only omit the fresh butter, as there will be a sufficient quantity of fat. _directions for roasting._ observe that in roasting it requires a good quick fire, but not too strong, and the meats should be well-jointed, trimmed neat, and covered with paper to preserve it from being too high a colour. beef and mutton should not be done too much; veal, pork, and lamb, should be done well; and some little time before it is to be served up, take the paper off, sprinkle the meat with salt, and when of a proper colour, froth it with butter and flour. large poultry to be papered and done in the same manner; but small poultry, such as chickens, woodcocks, rabbits, wild fowls, &c. will not require papering. the time the several articles will take roasting depends upon a little practice, as the weather and the different strengths of fires make a material alteration. i have given directions for some particular roasts which require a preparation; as for others which are served with sauces, they may be found under their respective heads: and for the trimmings of meat, &c. i have wrote a receipt to make into soup, or they may be put into the beef stock pot. _soup for a family._ cut the particles of meat from the trimmings of different joints, as beef, mutton, veal, pork, &c. and when done put the bones into a pot, cover with water, and boil them till the goodness is extracted. then strain the liquor, wash the trimmings of the vegetables, such as turnips, carrots, onions, leeks, celery, and a little cabbage. cut all small, put them into a pot with the above liquor and some split peas; boil till the peas are tender, add a little dry mint, and rub it through a tamis cloth or sieve. then season the meat with pepper and salt, sweated down till three parts tender, and add the pulp. boil all together till the meat is done, skim it and serve it up with fried bread in the form of dice. _to prepare a haunch of venison, or mutton, for roasting._ take great care the venison is well hung and good. wipe it, take the skin from the top part, and put butter and plenty of salt over it; then put paste confined on with four or five sheets of paper braced with packthread. roast it gently, and ten minutes before it is done, take off the paper, let it colour gradually, and froth it with flour and butter. serve up with the venison warm currant jelly in a boat, and some good gravy with a little red port in it in another sauce boat. _to roast woodcocks or snipes._ take out the trail, then roast the birds, and ten minutes before they are done bake a toast, put the trail into a stewpan, with a little cullis and fresh butter, and boil them together. when the woodcocks are to be served up put the sauce over the toast, and the woodcocks upon it. n. b. if the woodcocks are thin roast them with a bard of bacon over. _to roast larks._ take the entrails out of the birds, wash and wipe them dry, put them upon a lark spit, with small thin slices of fat bacon and a piece of a vine or green sage leaf between each, if approved; and while roasting, put over them crumbs of bread, or roast them plain. when they are done, serve them up with fried breadcrumbs round them, and melted butter in a sauce boat. _to fry breadcrumbs._ rub crumbs of bread through a hair sieve, have ready a clean frying pan, put them into it with a piece of fresh butter, set them over a moderate fire, keep stirring with a wooden spoon till they are of a light brown colour, and put them upon a plate. _turkeys._ to be roasted with a stuffing in the breast, and served with bread sauce in a boat. _rabbits._ to be roasted either plain, or a stuffing, with the liver chopped in it, put into the belly, and served up with parsley and butter in a boat. _hares._ to be dressed in the same manner as rabbits, with stuffing; but served up with cullis and fresh butter put over, and warm currant jelly in a sauce boat. _hare roasted another way._ stuff as above, and while roasting drudge it with flour, baste it with milk, and so alternately till a quarter of an hour before the hare is done; then baste it with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter put into the dripping pan. serve it up with a cullis sauce and butter put over, and currant jelly in a sauce boat. n. b. baste it repeatedly, as there must be a good crust over. it will require three pints of warm milk for that purpose. _pigeons._ may be roasted with a little stuffing in them, or plain; and served up with parsley and butter. _quails, or ruffs and rees._ to be roasted with bards of bacon and vine leaves over them, with sauce in a boat made with cullis and red port in it. _guinea fowls, pea fowls, pullets, chickens, and turkey poults._ to be roasted either larded or plain, and served up with gravy under, and bread and egg sauces in separate boats. _wild fowl._ to be roasted plain, not done too much, and served up with onion sauce in a boat; as also a small quantity of gravy and red port boiled together. _partridges and pheasants._ to be roasted plain, and served up with poivrade sauce hot, and bread sauce in boats. _green geese and ducklings._ to be roasted with pepper and salt put in the bellies, and served with green sauce in a boat. _other geese and tame ducks._ to be roasted with onion and sage chopped fine, seasoned with pepper and salt put into the inside, and served up with apple sauce in a boat. _to roast a pig._ make a stuffing with chopped sage, two eschallots, two eggs, breadcrumbs, and fresh butter, and season with pepper and salt; put it into the belly, sew it up, spit it, and rub it over with a paste brush dipped in sweet oil. roast it gently, and when done cut off the head; then cut the body and the head in halves, lay them on a dish, put the stuffing with the brains into a stewpan, add to them some good gravy, make it boil, and serve up the pig with the sauce under it. _to roast sweetbreads._ blanch heart sweetbreads till half done, then wash and wipe them dry, cut off some of the pipe, put yolk of eggs on the tops with a paste brush, and strew fine breadcrumbs over. roast them gently till done and of a nice colour, serve them up with a toast under and melted butter poured over, together with some cullis sauce round. _to roast ribs of beef._ bone the beef, roll it round like a fillet of veal, put a good stuffing in the center, bind it tight, roast it gently, and serve it up with brown oyster sauce round it. _fillet of veal._ to be done in the same manner as the above, with white oyster or cullis sauce round. _observations on meat and poultry._ meats to be preferred when of a good fatness and the lean appears juicy, but not particularly streaked with fat, as it then frequently happens to eat hard. when the season will permit let it hang for a week, and not more, as i have found that period bring it to its best state. poultry, likewise, should be chosen tolerably fat and of a soft grain. let them hang three or four days, which will add to their better eating; except woodcocks, snipes, larks, or pigs, which should be dressed fresh. be particular that the poultry are trussed very neat. _stuffing for turkies, hares, veal, &c._ chop very fine beef suet, parsley, thyme, eschallots, a very small quantity of marjoram, savory, basil, and lemon peel, with grated nutmeg, two eggs (or milk), pepper, salt, and an anchovie chopped (if approved). mix all well together. _gravy for roast meat, steaks, and poultry._ cut slices of chuck beef, veal, and lean ham; pare onions, turnips, a carrot, and cut them with celery; then add a bunch of parsley and thyme, a few whole pepper, and a little mace. put all the ingredients into a stewpan, set them over a moderate fire, sweat down till the liquor becomes of a light brown colour, and be careful not to let it burn. discharge it with water or beef stock, season to the palate with salt, and, if required, add a little liquid of colour. let it simmer till the meat is perfectly done, skim it free from fat, and strain it through a tamis cloth. _peloe of rice._ wash, pick, and dress, in the same manner as the directions for plain rice, observing only, that, before it is to be set in the oven, add a little pounded mace with the rice; and put into a stewpan a chicken half boiled and a piece of pickle pork three parts boiled, and cover with the rice. when it is to be served up, put the fowl and pork at the bottom of the dish, the rice over, and garnish with boiled or fried button onions and halves of hard eggs, which should be hot. _peloe of rice another way._ wash and pick two pounds of rice, boil it in plenty of water till half done, with a dozen of whole cardamum seeds; then drain it, pick out the seeds, put the rice into a stewpan, with three quarters of a pound of fresh butter and some pounded mace, and salt to the palate. take a loin of house lamb or some fresh pork cut into small pieces; put them into a frying-pan, add cinnamon, cloves, cummin and cardamum seeds, a small quantity of each pounded and sifted, with a bit of butter and some cayenne pepper, and fry the meat till half done. then take two bay leaves, four good-sized onions sliced, and add to them a pint and a half of veal stock. boil them till tender and rub them through a tamis cloth or sieve; then boil the liquor over a fire till it is reduced to half a pint, add it to the fried meat and spices, together with some peeled button onions boiled. then put some of the rice at the bottom of another stewpan, then a layer of meat and onions on the rice, and so on alternately till the whole is put in. cover the pan close, set it in a moderately heated oven for two hours and a half, and when it is to be served up turn the rice out carefully on a dish. _timbol of rice._ pick, wash, and parboil the rice; then strain it, put it into a stewpan with a little oiled butter and yolk of egg. simmer it gently till tender; then fill an oval tin mould with the rice, press it down close, take the shape out of the mould, wash it lightly with a paste brush with yolk of egg, and set it in a quick oven. when it is a good colour cut a square piece out of the top, scoop out the inside, and fill the cavity with fricassee of chickens, or any thing else you please. _petit patties of chicken and ham._ sheet the pans with puff paste, and put a bit of crumb of bread the bigness of a dice in each; then cover them with more paste, trim round the pan, wash the tops of the paste with egg, and bake the patties of a light colour. when they are to be served up take out the bread, have ready the white meat of dressed fowl, lean ham, an eschallot chopped fine, a spoonful of consumé of veal, a little cream, flour, salt, cayenne, and lemon juice, a small quantity of each. mix all the ingredients together over a fire, boil them for five minutes, fill the patties with it, and serve them up very hot. _patties of lobsters or oysters._ bake patties as before directed, fill them with lobsters or oysters chopped, add to them a little strong consumé of veal, a small quantity of flour, lemon juice, cayenne pepper, a bit of lemon peel, an eschallot chopped fine, an anchovie rubbed through a sieve, and mixed over a fire for five minutes. n. b. the lobsters or oysters are to be half boiled before they are chopped. _forcemeat patties._ sheet the pans as for chicken patties, but instead of bits of bread fill them with a light forcemeat well-seasoned. cover and bake them, and serve them up with a little cullis added to the forcemeat. _pulpton of chicken, rabbits, &c._ take veal suet or beef marrow, chop it, put it into a stewpan over a fire till melted, and when lukewarm mix it to some flour with a little water into a paste. knead it well, and rub fresh butter round the inside of a mould of any shape, and strew vermicelli upon the butter. then sheet the mould over the vermicelli with the paste rolled of the thickness of half an inch, and within the paste put a layer of chicken, slices of sweetbread, mushrooms, artichoke bottoms, truffles, and morells; after which put a little light forcemeat round with a paste over, close it well, egg, and bake it gently. when to be served up, turn it out of the mould, make a little hole in the top, and put into it a good cullis. n. b. cut the chicken in pieces and blanch them; the sweetbreads, truffles, and morels to be blanched, and afterwards season with pepper and salt. _fishmeagre pie._ bone and cut into pieces a male carp; make it into a forcemeat with some of the roe, parsley, thyme, eschallots chopped very fine, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, pepper, salt, a little beaten spice, half a pint of cream, four eggs, and crumb of french bread. afterwards take pieces of eel, salmon, and skate, pass them with sweet herbs, pepper, salt, lemon juice, and a bit of butter. when they are cold, put some of the forcemeat at the bottom of a deep dish, and mix with the fish some stewed mushrooms, button onions, truffles and morells blanched, and the roe cut into pieces, and put them into the dish with more forcemeat round the top; then cover with puff paste, ornament with leaves of paste, egg it, and bake it. when it is to be served up cut a small hole in the center of the top, and add a good cullis. _raised ham pie, with directions for making a raised crust._ take water boiling hot, put a piece of fresh butter into it, and mix it with flour into a paste, and as it gets cold knead it several times, taking care it is of a good consistence but not too stiff, and then raise it into any shape you please. have ready part of a ham boiled till half done, trim it to the shape of the crust, which must be big enough to put some light forcemeat at the bottom and round the ham when in the pie. cover it with the same kind of paste, pinch round the top, and egg and ornament it. just before it is set in the oven add half a pint of madeira wine, bake it gently for four hours, and when it is to be served up add some good cullis, but be careful it is not too salt. _raised chicken pie._ cut chicken into pieces, and put them into a stewpan, either blanched or not, with a bit of fresh butter, lemon juice, pepper and salt, parsley, thyme, eschallots chopped very fine, and a little pounded mace. when the chicken are half done put them on a dish, and when cold raise the crust, put light forcemeat at the bottom, the chicken upon it, and more forcemeat round the top. cover, bake gently, and when served up, cut off the lid, and add a ragout of sweetbreads, cocks combs, &c. &c. n. b. rabbits and veal may be done in the same manner; as also pigeons, but they are to be put into the crust whole. _flat chicken pie (or tourte)._ cut chicken into pieces, blanch them, and season with pepper and salt; then put a light forcemeat at the bottom of a deep dish, and upon it some of the chicken, some slices of throat sweetbreads seasoned, some stewed mushrooms, truffles and morells, and upon them the remainder of the chicken. cover it with a puff paste, then egg and ornament the top with leaves of paste of the same kind, bake it of a nice colour, and when it is to be served up put into it a good cullis. n. b. the chicken may be passed with sweet herbs, &c. and when cold put into the dish as above. rabbits also may be done in the same manner. _pigeon pie._ wash the pigeons in cold water and wipe them dry; then put into a deep dish a rump steak cut into pieces, beat with a chopper, and seasoned with pepper and salt, and upon it the pigeons with the liver, &c. seasoned. add also some yolk of hard eggs, cover it with puff paste, egg and ornament it with small leaves, bake it, and add some cullis. _raised turkey pie with a tongue._ bone a turkey, and have ready a boiled pickled tongue; pare the principal part, put it into the center of the turkey with some light forcemeat well-seasoned, and some slices of throat sweetbreads. sew it up, and put it into boiling water for ten minutes. then make a crust with raised paste big enough to receive the turkey, which, when cold, put in with bards of fat bacon upon it and forcemeat at the bottom of the crust; then cover and ornament it as a raised chicken pie, and bake it. when it is to be served up, take off the lid and the bards of bacon, glaize the breast lightly, and add a cullis or green truffle sauce. n. b. pullets, chickens, partridges, and pheasants, may be done in the same manner; but instead of the tongue put in whole green truffles pared, and some truffles pounded with the forcemeat, and when served up, add a good cullis. or, instead of a raised crust, they may be put in a dish and covered with puff paste, &c. _raised macaroni pie._ raise a crust and ornament and bake it, and when it is to be served up have ready some hot macaroni stewed and a white fricassee of chicken in separate stewpans. put them alternately into the pie, strew a little grated parmezan cheese over it, put a slip of paper round the edge of the pie to prevent from burning, and colour the cheese with a salamander. _raised beef steak pie._ take prime steaks of a rump of beef, cut the skin from the fat, beat the steaks with a chopper, cut them into middling-sized pieces, then pass them with a bit of fresh butter, pepper, salt, lemon juice, and eschallots chopped, and when they are half done put them into a dish till cold. blanch oysters, strain them, and preserve the liquor; then raise a crust, put a layer of steak at the bottom, some oysters upon it, and so alternately; cover the pie, ornament and bake it. when it is to be served up put into it a good cullis, with the oyster liquor and some ketchup mixed with it. n. b. in the same manner put steaks and oysters into a deep dish, and cover them with puff paste. _veal pie._ cut the best end of a loin of veal into thin chops, take off part of the bone and some of the fat from the kidney, season with pepper and salt, put them into a deep dish with yolks of boiled eggs, cover with puff paste, egg and ornament with leaves, bake it, and when it is to be served up, put into it some good consumé. _pork pie._ take a piece of loin of pork with the rind and part of the under bone cut off; then cut into chops, season them with pepper and salt, cover them with puff paste, bake the pie, and when it is to be served up put into it cullis, with the essence of two onions and a little mustard mixed with it. n. b. i have directed puff paste to be used for meat pies, it having the best appearance when baked; but there is another mode which may be thought preferable; and which is, to mix together half a pound of sifted flour, six ounces of fresh butter, the yolks and whites of two eggs well beaten, and a little milk and salt; then knead it well. _eel pie._ skin and clean the eels, cut them into pieces of two inches long, pass them with chopped parsley and eschallots, a little grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, and lemon juice, for five minutes; then put a little light forcemeat at the bottom of a deep dish, put the eels over it, cover with puff paste, bake it, and put into it some benshamelle or cullis. _mutton pie._ take off the bone from part of a loin of mutton, cut it into chops, and season with pepper and salt. then put into a deep dish a layer of chops, and upon them some slices of peeled potatoes (and if approved, some thin slices of onions); put the remaining chops over, cover with puff paste, bake it, and add some cullis. or, the chops may be passed with sweet herbs, &c. and when cold put into small or large raised crusts with the above vegetables, and when baked add some cullis. _sea pie._ take small pieces of salt beef and pickle pork, veal and mutton chops, a goose or a duck cut into pieces, onions and potatoes cut into thick slices, and season with a little salt and plenty of pepper. make a paste with beef suet chopped fine, some flour and water; knead them well together, then roll out the paste, sheet a large bowl with it, put into it the above ingredients alternately; cover it with the paste, put a cloth over, and boil four hours. when it is to be served up take off the cloth, make a little hole in the top, and add a good consumé. _rissoles._ cut into small slips breast of fowl, lean ham, pickle cucumbers, and anchovies; add to them consumé, cayenne pepper, breadcrumbs, and raw yolk of egg. simmer them over a fire for five minutes, and be careful not to let the mixture burn. then put the mixture on a plate, and when cold, cut into pieces, and dip them in yolk of raw egg, afterwards in fine breadcrumbs, and mould them with the hands into what form you please. have ready boiling lard, fry them of a nice colour, drain them dry, and serve them up with fried parsley under. _to fry parsley._ take fresh gathered parsley, pick, wash, and drain it very dry with a cloth. have ready clean boiling lard, put the parsley into it, keep stirring with a skimmer, and when a little crisp, take it out, put it on a drainer, and strew salt over. _puffs with chicken, &c._ chop breast of fowl, lean ham, and half an anchovie; then add a small quantity of parsley, lemon peel, and eschallots, cut very fine, with a little cayenne and pounded mace. put them into a stewpan with a ragout spoonful of benshamelle, set them over a fire for five minutes; then put the mixture on a plate, and when cold roll out puff paste thin, cut it into square pieces, put some of the mixture on them, fold the paste, run a jagger iron round to make them in form of a puff, fry them in boiling lard, and serve them up with fried parsley under. _wings and legs of fowls with colours._ cut the legs from a good-sized fowl and the wings as large as possible, leaving no breast bone; then fill the cavities with light forcemeat, sew them up neat, blanch them, drain them dry, wash the tops with raw white of egg, and lay a small quantity of forcemeat on it, and work a sprig with slips of lean ham and white and yellow omlets of eggs. then put them into a stewpan with a little stock, cover the pan close, and stew them gently till done and the liquor nearly reduced. when they are to be served up, put under a cullis boiled almost to a glaize. n. b. they may be done in the same manner and served up cold; or put round them savory jelly, instead of cullis, for an ornamental supper. _wings and legs larded and glaized._ cut the wings and legs and force them as before directed, then lard very neat and blanch them, and stew them with a little stock. when they are to be served up, glaize the larding, and put under a strong cullis, or sorrel sauce, or benshamelle. n. b. they may be done likewise in the above manner, and served up cold for a ball supper. _fowl a la menehout._ take the bones out of the legs and wings, and draw them in; then split the fowl from the top to the bottom of the back, skewer it down close, pass it with chopped parsley, thyme, and eschallots, pepper, salt, and lemon juice. when three parts done put it on a dish, and when cold wash it with yolk of egg with a paste brush, strew breadcrumbs over, and broil gently till done and of a light brown colour. serve it up with a cullis sauce under, with ketchup and lemon-pickle mixed in it. _pulled chicken (or turkey)._ boil a fowl till three parts done, and let it stand till cold; then take off the skin, cut the white meat into slips, put them into a stewpan, add a little cream, a very small quantity of grated lemon-peel and pounded mace, cayenne, salt, one eschallot chopped, a little lemon juice, and a spoonful of consumé; thicken with a little flour and water, simmer it over a fire ten minutes, during which time score the legs and rump, season them with pepper and salt, broil them of a good colour, and serve them up over the pulled chicken. _another way._ cut the fowl as above, and add to it some benshamelle; or, instead of thickening with flour and water as the above, add, five minutes before it is to be served up, a leason of two eggs. _pullet a la memorancy._ bone it, leaving the legs and wings on; then season the inside with pepper, salt, and beaten spice. put a light forcemeat into it, sew it up, truss it as for roasting, set it with hot water, lard it neat, and roast it gently with a veal caul over. when it is done, take off the caul, glaize the larding, and serve it up with white ragooed sweetbreads round it, or with strong cullis or plain benshamelle. _chickens with lemon sauce._ boil two chickens as white as possible, or braise them with bards of bacon over them; and when they are done wipe them dry and pour the sauce over. _to make lemon sauce._ pare two lemons and cut them into very small pieces in the form of dice; then take the liver and scalded parsley chopped, put them into a stewpan, add some boiling benshamelle and a little melted butter, and simmer over a fire for two minutes. _fricassee of chickens or rabbits (white)._ cut them into pieces and blanch and drain them dry; then put them into a stewpan with a little veal stock, a blade of mace, and a middling-sized whole onion. stew them gently till three parts done; then add slices of blanched throat sweetbreads, stewed white button mushrooms, egg balls, and pieces of artichoke bottoms. when they are all nearly stewed, season with salt and a little lemon juice, add a leason of three eggs, simmer it over a fire for five minutes, taking care not to let it curdle, and serve it up very hot, with the mace and onion taken out. n. b. instead of a leason, the stock it is stewed in may be almost reduced, and a benshamelle added with the sweetbreads, mushrooms, &c. _chickens or turkies with celery._ boil or braise them, and when they are to be served up wipe them dry, and pour over them white celery sauce. or they may be served with brown celery sauce under them, and the breast of the poultry glaized. [see _celery sauce, white and brown_.] _turkies, pullets, or chickens, with oyster sauce._ boil them, wipe them dry, and when they are to be served up pour over them white oyster sauce. _to make white oyster sauce._ blanch large oysters till half done, and strain and preserve the liquor; then beard and wash them, and put the liquor, free from sediment, into a stewpan. add to it two ounces of fresh butter, half a pint of good cream, a piece of lemon peel, and a blade of mace; put it over a fire, and when it nearly boils add mixed flour and water to thicken it properly. season to the palate with lemon juice, salt, and a little cayenne pepper if approved; then strain it through a fine hair sieve to the oysters, and boil them gently five minutes. n. b. in the same manner may be done stewed oysters for dishes, only serve them up with sippets of bread round. _chickens with peas._ truss them as for boiling, blanch them five minutes, and wash them clean; then braise them till tender with a little veal stock and bards of fat bacon or with white paper over them. when they are to be served up wipe them dry, glaize the tops lightly, and put pea sauce under. _another way to stew chickens with peas._ cut the chickens into pieces, blanch and drain them dry, and put them into a stewpan with a little veal stock; then stew them till tender and the liquor almost reduced. when they are to be served up, put them on a dish, and the peas sauce over. _fricassee of chickens or rabbits (brown)._ cut the chickens into pieces, and fry them in a little lard till of a light brown colour; then drain them with a cloth very dry; after which put them into a stewpan, add button mushrooms stewed, pieces of artichoke bottoms, blanched truffles, morells, egg balls, and some good-seasoned cullis. set them over a moderate fire, stew them gently till done, and serve up with fried oysters round them. _to fry oysters for a dish._ open twenty-four large oysters, blanch them with their own liquor, and when three parts done strain them, and preserve the liquor; then wash and let them drain. in the meanwhile make a batter with four table spoonfuls of flour, two eggs, a little pepper and salt, and their liquor. beat it well with a wooden spoon or a whisk for five minutes. put the oysters into the batter, mix them lightly, and have ready boiling lard. take the oysters out singly with a fork, put them into the lard, and fry them of a nice brown colour. then put them on a drainer, strew over a small quantity of salt, and serve them up. if they are for a dish put fried parsley under them, or stewed spinach. _directions for poultry, &c. plain boiled._ let it be observed that turkies, chickens, and meats, intended to be plain boiled, should be soaked in cold water, and put afterwards into plenty of boiling pump water, kept skimmed and preserved as white as possible. the time they will take dressing depends on a little practice, as in roasting. be particular in trimming the meats neat, and in trussing the poultry. the carving, likewise, should be carefully attended to, which is frequently expressed by the phrase of _cutting into pieces_. _jugged hare._ case the hare, cut off the shoulders and legs, and the back into three pieces. daub them well with fat bacon, and put them into a stewpot with the trimmings. add to them allspice, mace, whole pepper, a little of each; a small clove of garlick, three onions, two bay leaves, parsley, thyme, and savory, tied together in a small bunch; a quart of veal stock, three gills of red port; and simmer them over a fire till three parts done. then take out the shoulders, legs, and back; put them into another stewpan, strain the liquor to them, and add some passed flour and butter to thicken it a little. let it stew till tender, skim it free from fat, season with cayenne, salt, and lemon juice, and serve it up in a deep dish. _glaized hare._ case the hare, bone it as whole as possible, wash it, and fill the inside with light forcemeat; then sew it up, and truss it as for roasting. lard the back with bacon, the same as a fricando veal; cover it with a veal caul, and roast it very gently. when it is to be served up, take off the caul, glaize the larding, and put strong cullis, with a gill of red port boiled with it, under the hare. _duck aux naves._ bone a tame duck as whole as possible, and season the inside with beaten spices, pepper, and salt; then draw in the legs and wings, and fill the inside with light forcemeat. sew it up, braise it in a pint of veal stock, cover it with white paper and the cover of the stewpan. let it stew gently till tender, and the liquor almost reduced. when it is to be served up glaize the breast, and pour the sauce round it, which is to be made with turnips cut into shapes as for haricot; afterwards to be put into a stewpan and sweated with a bit of fresh butter till three parts done; then add a good cullis and the essence in which the duck was braised. when it boils, skim free from fat, season to the palate, and stew the turnips till done. _a duck with cucumbers._ the duck to be boned, braised, and served up in the same manner as the above, but instead of turnips put cucumber sauce, or peas, as for veal tendrons. _a duck a la benshamelle._ bone, braise, and glaize the duck as mentioned in the preceding article, and when it is to be served up put a sauce round it made with heads of sprue grass boiled in a little veal stock, and when tender rub them through a tamis. add the pulp to a small quantity of benshamelle, boil them together for five minutes, and let the sauce be very white and strong. _hashed mutton for a dish._ take mutton ready dressed, cut it into thin slices, put them into a stewpan with slices of pickle cucumbers, or walnuts, or onions; then make a sauce with chopped eschallots or onions passed with a bit of fresh butter over a slow fire till three parts done; after which add a pint of veal stock, or gravy, and a little ketchup. boil it ten minutes, season to the palate with cayenne pepper and salt; then strain it to the mutton, let it stew gently till thoroughly hot, and add a small quantity of liquid of colour. n. b. in the same manner may be done beef; and when it is to be served up put the bones (which are to be seasoned with pepper and salt, and grilled) over the hash. _hashed venison._ take the part least done of ready-dressed venison, cut it in slices, and put them into a stewpan; then pass a bit of fresh butter and flour and chopped eschallots over a slow fire for ten minutes, and add to them half a pint of red port, a pint and a half of veal stock, its own gravy, if any, a little piece of lemon peel, cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon juice. season to the palate, boil all together a quarter of an hour, and strain it to the venison. let it simmer gently till thoroughly hot. n. b. the venison should not be put into the liquor above ten minutes before it is to be served up, by reason of the fat dissolving too much. _hashed fowls._ cut into pieces (very neat) ready-dressed fowls, turkies, or rabbits, and put them into a stewpan; then make a thickening with a bit of fresh butter, flour, and chopped eschallots or onions mixed over a slow fire. discharge it with veal stock, add a little lemon pickle and ketchup, season to the palate, put a small quantity of liquid of colour, boil for ten minutes, strain to the poultry, and let it stew gently. when served up, there may be put a few pieces of the fowl grilled round it. n. b. instead of the thickening and veal stock, may be added cullis with lemon pickle and ketchup. _hashed hare, wild fowl, pheasants, or partridges._ cut the poultry into neat pieces, put them into a stewpan, and add a liquor made in the same manner as for venison; or put cullis and red port with their own gravy. _broiled beef steaks._ take a small fat rump of beef, and cut off the fillet and the first two or three steaks; then cut the remainder into steaks also, and cut the skin from the fat. beat them with a chopper, and season with pepper and salt just before they are to be put on the gridiron, which should be well cleaned, and the steaks frequently turned. when they are done according to desire, serve them up on a hot dish with a little gravy under, some scraped horseradish, chopped eschallots, and pickles, on small plates, and oyster sauce in a sauce boat, or with slices of onions dipped in batter and fried. n. b. the fillet and outside steaks of the rump may be made into a pudding, in order to have prime steaks for broiling. _beef steak pudding._ take flour, chopped suet, some milk, a little salt, and one egg, and mix them well together. roll out the paste of half an inch thick, and sheet a bason or a bowl with it. then trim the skin from the meat, beat the steaks well with a chopper, cut them into middling-sized pieces, season with pepper and salt, put them into the bason with blanched oysters and slices of potatoes alternately (or slices of onions, if approved). cover the top with paste, and tie a cloth over the bason. boil the pudding (if of a middling size) two hours; and when it is to be served up put into it a little cullis and ketchup. _oyster sauce for beef steaks._ blanch a pint of oysters, and preserve their liquor; then wash and beard them, and put their liquor into a stewpan with india soy and ketchup, a small quantity of each, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. set them over a fire, and when nearly boiling thicken with flour and water; season to the palate with a little cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon juice; strain it to the oysters, and stew them gently five minutes. _to dress mutton, lamb, or pork chops in a plain manner._ cut a loin of mutton, lamb, or pork, into chops of a middling thickness; beat them with a chopper, trim off a sufficient quantity of the bone and fat; then season with pepper and salt, broil them over a clear moderate fire, and serve them up very hot with gravy. n. b. lamb chops may have stewed spinach or fried parsley underneath. _to dress veal cutlets._ beat the cutlets with a chopper, and cut them into middling-sized pieces; then strew on each side of them a mixture of breadcrumbs, chopped parsley and thyme, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, and broil them over a clear fire till done and of a nice colour. serve them up with cullis sauce and ketchup in it, or stewed mushrooms and cullis. rashers of broiled bacon and fried oysters (a few of each if approved) may be put round the cutlets or chops, which may be done in the same manner. _minced veal for a dish._ cut into small pieces ready dressed veal, put it into a stewpan, add to it a very small quantity of grated lemon peel and a little benshamelle; season to the palate with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and salt; stew the veal gently ten minutes, and serve it up with sippets of bread round it either fried or plain. _minced veal another way._ add to the veal a little stock, one eschallot chopped fine, some grated nutmeg and grated lemon peel, a very small quantity of each. season with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and salt. let it stew ten minutes, and just before it is to be served up add a leason of two eggs and cream, simmer them together five minutes, and be careful it does not burn nor curdle. sippets of bread, likewise, to be placed round. _partridges or pheasants au choux._ bone the birds, put into them some light forcemeat well-seasoned; sew them up, blanch and wipe them dry, and braise them in a pint of stock till tender. after which cut two savoys into quarters and boil them till a fourth part done; then squeeze them and tie round with twine, put them into a stewpan, add a pint of stock, and boil them gently till done. then take the savoys out, cut off the strings, put the birds into the center of a dish, the savoys round them, and set the dish in an oven or in a warm place covered over. then mix the two liquors together, season to the palate with pepper, salt, and lemon juice. make it of a proper thickness with flour and water, boil it till three parts reduced, add a little colour and strain it. when the birds are to be served up glaize their breasts lightly, and put the sauce over the savoys. _partridges or pheasants with truffles._ bone the birds, and force and braise them in a small quantity of stock. when they are to be served up glaize the breasts lightly, and put green truffle sauce round them, with the essence of the birds mixed in it. _turkey with truffles._ truss the turkey as for boiling, put some light forcemeat with truffles pounded with it into the cavity near the breast, and secure it from falling out. then put slices of lemon, some salt, and bards of fat bacon on the breast, and white paper over it bound on with packthread, and roast gently (if a good-sized turkey) one hour and a half. when it is to be served up, take off the paper, glaize the breast, and put the truffle sauce round the turkey. n. b. in the same manner may be done pullets or chickens. _truffle sauce for turkies, &c._ put green truffles into water, clean them well with a hard brush, cut the outside paring thinly off, trim them into shapes or round, put the trimmings into a marble mortar, pound them, and add to the forcemeat which is to be put into the cavity near the breast of the turkey. then put the truffles into a stewpan with a pint of beef stock, stew them gently, and when the liquor is almost reduced add some cullis well-seasoned. _turkey with chesnuts._ truss the turkey as for boiling, stuff it with light forcemeat and spanish chesnuts whole, and paper and roast it as a turkey with truffles. when it is to be served up, glaize the breast and put chesnut sauce round it, made with good cullis and chesnuts, which should be boiled till half done, and then roasted in a frying pan till wholly done; after which let them be peeled and put into the cullis five minutes before the turkey is served up. _turkey with ragout._ stuff it in the plain way, boil it, and when it is to be served up put over the following sauce:--take slices of throat sweetbreads blanched, white button mushrooms stewed, artichoke bottoms boiled till half done and cut in halves, cocks combs boiled till done, a few egg balls scalded; add a good benshamelle, and stew them gently for ten minutes. or, instead of benshamelle, there may be put to the above ingredients half a pint of veal stock, and let them all be boiled ten minutes; then add a leason of three eggs and cream, simmer them together five minutes more, and season with salt, lemon juice, and cayenne pepper. _rabbits with onions._ boil them as white as possible, and when they are to be served up, wipe them dry and put over onion sauce, made thus:--take mild onions peeled, and boiled till three parts done; then squeeze and chop them but not too small; add a bit of fresh butter, a little salt and flour, a sufficient quantity of cream to mix them, and a little white ground pepper, if approved. let the sauce be of a good thickness, and simmered over a slow fire for ten minutes. _glaized sweetbreads._ lard very neat two heart sweetbreads, then blanch and braise or roast them; and when they are to be served up, glaize the top part, and put stewed endive under them. _matelote of rabbits._ cut them into pieces and blanch and wash them; then put them into a stewpan with a gill of water, cover close and preserve them as white as possible. when they are nearly done and the liquor almost reduced, which should not be of any colour, add half a pint of good benshamelle, a few whole boiled cocks combs, pickle cucumbers, ham, tongue, omlets of eggs (the same as for garnishing) cut into small squares, and a few stewed button mushrooms. stew them together for ten minutes, and serve the matelote up directly. _sweetbreads en erison._ to be done in the same manner as neck of veal, which see. _stewed giblets plain._ cut two pair of scalded goose giblets into pieces of two inches long; then blanch them, trim the bones from the ends, and wash the giblets; after which drain them dry, put them into a stewpan with half a pint of stock, cover the pan close, simmer over a slow fire till three parts done and the liquor nearly reduced, then add good-seasoned cullis, and stew them till tender. _stewed giblets with peas._ proceed as with the above, except, instead of plain cullis, take a pint of shelled young green peas, and sweat them till three parts done with a bit of fresh butter and a little salt; then add some cullis, put them to the giblets, and stew them till tender. if requisite put a little liquid of colour. _green truffles for a dish._ well clean two pounds of green truffles; then put them into a stewpan with half a pint of stock, a gill of red port, and a little salt, and boil them gently half an hour. when they are to be served up, drain them dry and put them into a folded napkin. they are to be eaten with cold fresh butter, or with oil, vinegar, and cayenne pepper. n. b. the liquor they were boiled in may be made into a cullis, and put into different sauces, such as haricot, ragout, or celery, &c. _rabbits en gallentine for a dish._ bone two rabbits, lay them flat, put a little light forcemeat upon them, and slips of lean ham, breast of fowl, and omlets of eggs white and yellow, the same as for garnishing. roll the rabbits up tight and sew them, lard the top part with slips of fat bacon very neat, and blanch and braise them. when they are to be served up glaize the larding, and put good cullis under them. _ham braised._ take a mellow smoked ham perfectly clean; then well trim and put it into a braising pan; after which, add to it four quarts of water, a bottle of madeira wine, and a few bay leaves. cover the pan close, and simmer the ham over a moderate fire till very tender. then wipe it quite dry, take off the rind, glaize the top part, and serve it up on a large dish with stewed spinach on one side and mashed turnips on the other. n. b. hams may be plain boiled and served up in the same manner. pickled tongues may be stuffed with marrow and boiled, then peeled, and served up with the above vegetables and in the same manner. _jerusalem artichokes stewed._ pare and cut them into halves, boil them in a little consumé till nearly done and the liquor almost reduced; then add a bit of fresh butter, salt, flour, and cream, a small quantity of each. set them over a fire for five minutes, and serve them up with fried bread round. _jerusalem artichokes another way._ pare and cut them into shapes as for haricot, and fry them in boiling-hot lard till of a light brown colour; then drain them dry, put them into a stewpan, and add a little strong cullis with a small quantity of vinegar and mustard mixed in it. serve them up with fried bread round. _mashed potatoes._ pare and steam or boil floury potatoes, and mash them with a wooden spoon; then add a bit of fresh butter, a little salt, and some milk or cream. mix them well together over a fire for five minutes, then put them in the center of a dish, make them smooth, chequer the top with the back of a knife, and put some whole potatoes round if approved. serve them up very hot, but be careful the mash is not too thin, and preserve them as white as possible. n. b. the same mash may be put into scollop shells and coloured with a salamander; or the mash may be mixed with yolk of egg, then moulded with the hands into round balls, and fried in boiling lard. _cauliflower with parmezan cheese._ cut off the leaves and stalk, boil it in salt and water till nearly done, and drain till dry. have ready a dish with fried bread dipped in white of raw egg, and put round the rim. set the flower in the center of the dish, and pour over it a sauce made with boiling-hot benshamelle, and, three minutes before it is to be put over the cauliflower, add grated parmezan cheese. _cauliflower a la sauce._ boil the flower, and either serve it up whole or in pieces, placed round each other in a dish. the sauce over it to be boiling hot and of a good thickness, made with strong cullis, a little vinegar, and fresh butter mixed together. n. b. broccoli may be done in the same manner. _cauliflower a la cream._ boil the flower and pour over it the following sauce:--take a gill of consumé and a table spoonful of vinegar, which put into a stewpan and set over a fire till hot, and five minutes before it is to be sent to table add a leason of two eggs and a gill of cream. _stewed artichoke bottoms._ boil six artichokes till half done; then take the leaves and choke away, trim the bottoms neat with a knife, or cut them with a shape; after which put them into a stewpan, add half a pint of stock, a little salt and lemon juice, and boil them gently till done. when they are to be served up wipe them dry, put them in the center of a dish with fried bread round the rim, and a strong bright cullis over them, or benshamelle. _french beans a la cream for a dish._ cut young beans in slips, boil them in plenty of water and salt to preserve them green, and when they are done drain them dry. then put into a stewpan two ounces of fresh butter, the yolks of three eggs beat up in a gill of cream, and set over a slow fire. when it is hot add a table spoonful of vinegar and the beans, simmer all together for five minutes, and keep stirring the beans with a wooden spoon to prevent the mixture from burning or curdling. _stewed cardoons._ cut the heads in pieces, take off the outside skin, wash, and scald them; then put them into a stewpan, add a little stock to cover them, boil till three parts done and the liquor almost reduced, then add a small quantity of benshamelle and stew them gently till done. serve them up with sippets of fried bread and stewed watercresses alternately round the rim of the dish, and the cardoons in the center. or they may be done in the same manner with cullis instead of benshamelle. _vegetables in a mould._ sheet the inside of an oval jelly or cake mould with bards of fat bacon; then put upright alternately round the inside of the bacon slips of cleaned turnips, carrots, pickle cucumbers, and celery and asparagus heads. lay a forcemeat at the bottom and round the inside of the vegetables, filling the center with small pieces of veal or mutton passed with sweet herbs, pepper, salt, and lemon juice. cover it with forcemeat, wash it with yolk of egg, and bake it. when it is to be served up turn it gently out of the mould into a deep dish, take off the bacon, make a little hole at the top, and add a small quantity of good cullis. _broiled mushrooms._ clean with a knife fresh forced mushrooms, and wash and drain them dry. then make a case with a sheet of writing paper, rub the inside well with fresh butter, and fill it with the mushrooms. season them with pepper and salt, put them upon a baking plate over a slow fire, cover them with a stewpot cover with some fire upon it, and when the mushrooms are nearly dry, serve them up very hot. _stewed mushrooms (brown)._ clean with a knife a pottle of fresh forced mushrooms, put them into water, and when they are to be stewed take them out with the hands to avoid the sediment. then put them into a stewpan with an ounce and an half of fresh butter, a little salt, and the juice of half a lemon. cover the stewpan close, put it over a fire, and let the mushrooms boil for five minutes. then thicken them with a little flour and water mixed, add a small quantity of liquid of colour, (some cayenne if approved,) and stew them gently for five minutes more. _stewed mushrooms (white)._ let the same process be followed as above; but instead of adding liquid of colour put to them a gill of good cream. _mashed turnips._ pare and boil them till three parts done; then squeeze them between two plates, put them into a stewpan, add flour, fresh butter, cream, and salt, a little of each. mix them well over a fire, stew them gently for five minutes, and preserve them as white as possible. _potatoes creamed._ pare good potatoes, cut them into quarters, trim them round, and put them into a stewpan. boil them gently till half done, drain them dry, add to them cream, salt, and fresh butter, a small quantity of each, or some benshamelle. stew them very gently till they are done, and be careful they do not break. _stewed watercresses._ pick and wash twelve bunches of watercresses, boil them till half done, and drain and squeeze them dry; then chop and put them into a stewpan, add to them cullis, cream, salt, pepper, and flour, a little of each. stew them gently ten minutes, and serve them up with fried bread round. _a neat dish of vegetables._ wash a dish with white of raw egg, then make four divisions in it with fried bread, and put alternately in each the following vegetables:--in the first, stewed spinach; in the second, mashed turnips; in the third, mashed potatoes; and in the fourth, slices of carrots and some button onions blanched: afterwards stew them in a little cullis, and when they are put into the dish let the essence adhere to them: or in the fourth partition put pieces of cauliflower or heads of broccoli. n. b. instead of fried bread to make the divisions, may be used mashed potatoes and yolks of eggs mixed together, and put on a dish in as many partitions as approved; afterwards baked till of a nice colour, and served up with any kind of stewed vegetable alternately. _vegetable pie._ cut celery heads two inches long, turnips and carrots into shapes, some peeled button onions or two spanish onions, artichoke bottoms cut into quarters, pieces of cauliflowers or heads of broccoli, and heads of large asparagus. let all the vegetables be washed clean; then boil each separately in a sufficient quantity of water to cover them, and as they get tender strain the liquor into one stewpan and put the vegetables into another. then add to their essences half a pint of strong consumé, thicken it with flour and water, season to the palate with cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon juice; add also a little colour. let it boil ten minutes and strain it to the vegetables; then simmer them together, and serve them up in a raised pie crust, or in a deep dish with a raised crust baked round it, of two inches high. _fried potatoes._ pare and slice potatoes half an inch thick; then wipe them dry, flour, and put them into boiling hot lard or dripping, and fry them of a light brown colour. then drain them dry, sprinkle a little salt over, and serve them up directly with melted butter in a sauce boat. _fried onions with parmezan cheese._ pare six large mild onions, and cut them into round slices of half an inch thick. then make a batter with flour, half a gill of cream, a little pepper, salt, and three eggs, beat up for ten minutes; after which add a quarter of a pound of parmezan cheese grated fine and mixed well together, to which add the onions. have ready boiling lard; then take the slices of onions out of the batter with a fork singly, and fry them gently till done and of a nice brown colour. drain them dry, and serve them up placed round each other. melted butter with a little mustard in it to be served in a sauce boat. _pickle tongue forced._ boil it till half done, then peel it, and cut a piece out of the under part from the center, and put it into a marble mortar. then add three ounces of beef marrow, half a gill of cream, the yolk of two eggs, a few breadcrumbs, a little pepper, and a spoonful of madeira wine. pound them well together, fill the cavity in the tongue with it, sew it up, cover it with a veal caul, and roast till tender, or boil it. _stewed endive._ trim off the green part of endive heads, wash and cut them into pieces, and scald them till half done; then squeeze, chop, and put them into a stewpan; add a small quantity of strong cullis, stew it till tender, and serve it up in a sauce boat, or it may be put under roast mutton. _forced cucumbers._ pare fresh gathered cucumbers of a middling-size; then cut them into halves, take out the seeds with a knife, fill the cavity with forcemeat, and bind the two halves together with strong thread. put them into a stewpan with vinegar, salt, and veal stock, a small quantity of each. set them over a fire, simmer them till three parts done, and reduce the liquor; then add with it a strong cullis, put it to the cucumbers, and stew them gently till done. _to stew peas for a dish._ put a quart of fresh shelled young peas into a stewpan, add to them a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a middling-sized onion sliced very fine, a cos or cabbage lettuce washed and cut into pieces, and a very little salt. cover the pan close, put it over a moderate fire, and sweat the peas till half done. make them of a proper thickness with flour and water, add a spoonful of essence of ham, season to the palate with cayenne pepper, and add a small lump of sugar if approved. let the peas stew gently till tender, being careful not to let them burn. _salad of asparagus._ scale and cut off the heads of large asparagus, boil them till nearly done, strain, and put them into cold water for five minutes, and drain them dry; afterwards lay them in rows on a dish, put slices of lemon round the rim, and mix well together a little mustard, oil, vinegar, cayenne pepper, and salt, and put it over the asparagus just before they are to be eaten. _asparagus peas._ scale sprue grass, cut it into pieces the bigness of peas as far as the green part extends from the heads, and wash and put them into a stewpan. to a quart of grass peas add half a pint of hot water lightly salted, and boil them till three parts done; after which strain and preserve the liquor, which boil down till nearly reduced, and put to it three ounces of fresh butter, half a gill of cream, a little sifted sugar, flour, and water, sufficient to make it of a proper thickness; add the peas, stew them till tender, and serve them up with the top of a french roll toasted and buttered put under them in a dish. _another way._ boil the peas in salt and water till nearly done, strain and put them into a stewpan, add to them a little sifted sugar, two ounces of fresh butter, a table spoonful of essence of ham, half a gill of cream, with two yolks of raw eggs beat up in it; stew them gently five minutes, and be careful they do not burn. serve them up in the same manner as the above. n. b. large heads of asparagus may be done in the same manner whole. _stewed asparagus for sauce._ scale sprue or large asparagus, then cut off the heads as far as they are eatable, boil them till nearly done, strain them, and pour cold water over to preserve them green. then make (boiling) a good strong cullis, and put in the heads five minutes before the sauce is served up, which may be put over tendrons of veal, lamb, &c. n. b. some tops of sprue grass may be boiled in a little stock till tender, and rubbed through a tamis. the pulp to be put to the cullis before the heads are added. _directions for vegetables._ it is necessary to remember, that in dressing vegetables of every kind, they should be gathered fresh, picked clean, trimmed or pared neatly, and washed in several waters. those that are to be plain boiled should be put into plenty of boiling water and salt. if they are not to be used directly, when they are three parts done put them into cold water for five minutes, such as spinach, greens, cauliflowers, and broccoli, as it preserves their colour; and when they are to be served up put them again into boiling water till done, then drain them dry. n. b. potatoes and carrots are best steamed. _pickled oysters._ put two dozen of large oysters into a stewpan over a fire with their liquor only, and boil them five minutes; then strain the liquor into another stewpan, and add to it a bay leaf, a little cayenne pepper, salt, a gill and a half of vinegar, half a gill of ketchup, a blade of mace, a few allspice, and a bit of lemon peel. boil it till three parts reduced, then beard and wash the oysters, put them to the pickle, and boil them together two minutes. when they are to be served up place the oysters in rows, and strain the liquor over them. garnish the dish with slices of lemon or barberries. _oyster atlets._ blanch throat sweetbreads, and cut them into slices; then take rashers of bacon the bigness of the slices of the sweetbreads, and as many large oysters blanched as there are pieces of sweetbread and bacon. put the whole into a stewpan with a bit of fresh butter, parsley, thyme, and eschallots, chopped very fine, pepper, salt, and lemon juice, a small quantity of each. put them over a slow fire, and simmer them five minutes; then lay them on a dish, and when a little cool, put upon a small wooden or silver skewer a slice of sweetbread, a slice of bacon, and an oyster, and so alternately till the skewers are full; then put breadcrumbs over them, which should be rubbed through a hair sieve, and broil the atlets gently till done and of a light brown colour. serve them up with a little cullis under them, together with the liquor from the blanched oysters reduced and added to it. _scollop oysters._ blanch the oysters and strain them; then add to their liquor, which must be free from sediment, a good piece of fresh butter, a little pepper and salt, some lemon peel and grated nutmeg, a small quantity of each. then beard and wash the oysters, add them to the ingredients, simmer them over a fire five minutes, and put the oysters into scollop shells with the liquor. if there be more than sufficient, boil it till nearly reduced and add it; then put fine breadcrumbs over, smooth them with a knife, bake or set them over a fire upon a gridiron for half an hour, and colour the top part with a salamander. _oyster loaves._ take small french rasped rolls, and cut a little piece off the top part; then take the crumb entirely out, and afterwards fry the case and tops in boiling lard only till they are crisp and of a light colour. drain them dry, keep them warm, and just before they are to be served up put oysters into them, done in the same manner as for scollops, with the top of the rolls over. _ragout of sweetbreads (brown)._ take throat sweetbreads blanched and cut into slices; morells blanched, cut into halves, and washed free from grit; some stewed mushrooms, egg balls, artichoke bottoms, or jerusalem artichokes, boiled till half done and cut into pieces; green truffles pared, cut into slices half an inch thick, and stewed in a little stock till it is nearly reduced; and cocks combs boiled till three parts done. then mix all the ingredients together, add some cullis, stew them gently a quarter of an hour, and season to the palate. _ragout of sweetbreads (white)._ put into a stewpan some stewed mushrooms, egg balls, slices of blanched throat sweetbreads, cocks combs boiled till nearly done, and half a pint of consumé. stew them ten minutes, then pour the liquor into another stewpan, and reduce it over a fire to one half the quantity. beat up the yolks of two eggs, a gill of cream, a little salt, and strain them through a hair sieve to the sweetbreads, &c. then put them over a slow fire and let them simmer five minutes; or the above four articles may be put into a stewpan with some benshamelle only, and stewed till done. _poached eggs with sorrel or endive._ take a slice of bread round a loaf, and cut it to cover three parts of the inside of a dish; then fry it in boiling lard till of a light colour, drain it dry, and lay it in a warm place. then wash and chop sorrel, squeeze and put it into a stewpan with a bit of fresh butter, cayenne pepper, and a table spoonful of essence of ham; simmer it till done, thicken it with flour and water, boil it five minutes, butter the toast, poach the eggs, and drain them; then lay them over the bread, put the sorrel sauce round, and serve them up very hot. _buttered eggs._ break twelve eggs into a stewpan, add a little parsley chopped fine, one anchovie picked and rubbed through a hair sieve, two table spoonfuls of consumé or essence of ham, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter made just warm, and a small quantity of cayenne pepper. beat all together, set them over a fire, and keep stirring with a wooden spoon till they are of a good thickness, and to prevent their burning. serve them up in a deep dish with a fresh toast under them. _fried eggs, &c._ take slices of ham or rashers of bacon, and broil, drain, and put them into a deep plate. have ready a little boiling lard in a stewpan, break the eggs into it, and when they are set, turn and fry them not more than two minutes. then take them out with a skimmer, drain them, and serve them up very hot over the bacon or ham. put a strong cullis, with a little mustard and vinegar (but no salt) in it, under them. _eggs a la trip._ boil the eggs gently five minutes, then peel, wash, and cut them in halves; put them into a stewpan, add a little warm strong benshamelle, and a small quantity of parsley chopped very fine. simmer them over a fire a few minutes, and serve them up plain, or with fried oysters round them. _omlet of eggs._ break ten eggs, add to them a little parsley and one eschallot chopped fine, one anchovie picked and rubbed through a hair sieve, a small quantity of grated ham, a little pepper, and mix them well together. have ready an iron frying-pan, which has been prepared over a fire with a bit of butter burnt in it for some time, in order that the eggs might not adhere to the pan when turned out. wipe the pan very clean and dry; put into it two ounces of fresh butter, and when hot put in the mixture of eggs; then stir it with a wooden spoon till it begins to thicken, mould it to one side of the pan, let it remain one minute to brown, put a stewpan cover over it, and turn it over into a dish, and if approved (which will be a good addition) pour round it a little strong cullis, and serve it up very hot. there may be added also, a small quantity of boiled tops of asparagus or celery, some fowl, or oysters, or other ingredients, pounded and rubbed through a sieve, with a table spoonful of cream and one of ketchup. then add the pulp to the eggs, beat them well together, and fry them as above. or the mixture, instead of being fried, may be put over a fire and stirred till it begins to thicken; then put it on a toast, colour it with a hot salamander, and serve it up with a little cullis or benshamelle, or green truffle sauce underneath. _fricassee of tripe._ cut the tripe into small slips, and boil in a little consumé till the liquor is nearly reduced; then add to it a leason, of two yolks of eggs and cream, a small quantity of salt, cayenne pepper, and chopped parsley. simmer all together over a slow fire for five minutes, and serve it up immediately. or instead of the leason, &c. a little benshamelle and chopped parsley may be added. _lambs tails and ears._ scald four tails and five ears very clean, and braise them in a pint of veal stock. when the tails are half done, take them out, egg and breadcrumb them over, and broil them gently. let the ears be stewed till three parts done, and nearly reduce the liquor; then add cullis, stew them till tender, and serve them up with the sauce in the center of the dish, the tails round them, and a bunch of pickle barberries over each ear. or the tails and ears may be stewed in a little stock till tender; then add a leason of eggs and cream, and serve them up with twelve heads of large asparagus cut three inches long, boiled till done, and put over plain. let the heads be preserved as green as possible. _curried atlets._ take slices of throat sweetbreads, and slices of veal or mutton of the same size; put them into a stewpan with a bit of fresh butter, a table spoonful of currie powder, the juice of half a lemon, and a little salt. set them over a slow fire, and when they are half done add to them blanched and bearded oysters with their liquor free from sediment. simmer all together five minutes, lay them on a dish, and when cold put them alternately on small wooden or silver skewers. then dip them in the liquor, strew fine breadcrumbs on each side, broil them over a clear fire till of a brown colour, and serve them up with some currie sauce under them. n. b. the slices of sweetbread, oysters, veal, and mutton, to be of an equal number. _to stew maccaroni._ boil a quarter of a pound of riband maccaroni in beef stock till nearly done; then strain it and add a gill of cream, two ounces of fresh butter, a table spoonful of the essence of ham, three ounces of grated parmezan cheese, and a little cayenne pepper and salt. mix them over a fire for five minutes, then put it on a dish, strew grated parmezan cheese over it, smooth it with a knife, and colour with a very hot salamander. _stewed cheese._ cut small into a stewpan cheshire and gloucester cheese, a quarter of a pound of each; then add a gill of lisbon wine, a table spoonful of water, and (if approved) a tea spoonful of mustard. mix them over a fire till the cheese is dissolved; then have ready a cheese plate with a lighted lamp beneath, put the mixture in, and serve it up directly. send with it some fresh toasted bread in a toast rack. _to prepare a batter for frying the following different articles, being a sufficient quantity for one dish._ take four ounces of best flour sifted, a little salt and pepper, three eggs, and a gill of beer; beat them together with a wooden spoon or a whisk for ten minutes. let it be of a good thickness to adhere to the different articles. _fried celery._ cut celery heads three inches long, boil them till half done, wipe them dry, and add to the batter. have ready boiling lard, take out the heads singly with a fork, fry them of a light colour, drain them dry, and serve them up with fried parsley under. _fried peths._ to be done, and served up in the same manner as the above. _fried sweetbreads._ let some throat sweetbreads be blanched, then cut into slices, and served up in the like way. _fried artichoke bottoms._ let the chokes be boiled till the leaves can be taken away, then cut the bottoms into halves and fry them in batter as the beforementioned articles; then serve them up with melted butter in a sauce boat with a little ground white pepper in it. _fried tripe and onions._ cut the tripe into slips of four inches long and three inches wide, dip them in the batter and fry them. when it is to be served up put under it slices of onions cut one inch thick, and fry them in the same manner. or, instead of slips of tripe, pieces of cowheel may be used; and let melted butter be sent in a sauce boat with a little mustard in it, and (if approved) a table spoonful of vinegar. _hard eggs fried._ let the eggs be boiled five minutes; then peel, wipe them dry, cut them in halves, dip them in batter, and fry them of a light brown colour. serve them up with stewed spinach under, with a little strong cullis and essence of ham mixed in it. _to dress a lamb's fry._ scald the fry till half done; then strain, wash, and wipe it dry; dip the pieces in yolks of eggs, and breadcrumb them; fry them in plenty of boiling lard, and serve them up with fried parsley underneath. _another way._ scald the fry as above, and instead of dipping them in egg fry them in a plain way with a piece of butter till they are of a light brown colour; then drain and sprinkle a little pepper and salt over, and serve them up with fried parsley underneath. _puffs with forcemeat of vegetables._ put into a stewpan a little fat bacon cut small, the same quantity of lean veal, some parsley and eschallots chopped together, and season with pepper, salt, and beaten spice. then add six french beans, twelve heads of asparagus, six mushrooms chopped, and a little lemon juice. stew the ingredients gently for ten minutes, then put them into a marble mortar, add a little cream, breadcrumbs, and yolk of egg, pounded well together. then roll out puff paste half an inch thick, cut it into square pieces, fill them with the forcemeat, fold them, run a jagger iron round to form them like a puff, and fry them in boiling lard. let them be of a brown colour, and drain them dry; then serve them up with sauce under them, made with a little cullis, lemon pickle, and ketchup. _rammequins._ put into a pan four ounces of grated parmezan cheese, two ounces of fresh butter just warm, two yolks of eggs, a little parsley and an eschallot chopped fine, one anchovie picked and rubbed through a hair sieve, some cream, pepper, and salt, a small quantity of each, and beat them well together with a wooden spoon. then make paper cases of three inches long, two inches wide, and two inches deep, and fill them with the mixture. then whisk the whites of two eggs to a solid froth, put a little over the mixture in each case, and bake them either in an oven, or on a baking plate over a fire with a stewpot cover over them. serve them up as soon as they are done. _to dress part of a wild boar._ put into a braising pan fourteen pounds weight of the boar; add to it a bottle of red port, eight onions sliced, six bay leaves, cayenne pepper, salt, a few cloves, mace, allspice, and two quarts of veal stock. stew it gently, and when tender take it out of the liquor, put it into a deep dish, and set it in an oven. then strain the liquor, reduce it to one quart, thicken it a little with passed flour and butter, and season it to the palate with lemon pickle. let it boil ten minutes, skim it clean, pour it over the meat, and serve it up. _plovers eggs, to be served up in different ways._ boil them twenty minutes, and when they are cold peel and wipe them dry; then lay them in a dish and put chopped savory jelly round and between them, and slices of lemon and bunches of pickled barberries round the rim of the dish. or they may be served up in ornamental paper or wax baskets, with pickled parsley under them, and either peeled or not. or they may be sent to the table hot in a napkin. _buttered lobsters._ boil two lobsters till half done; then take off the tails, cut the bodies in halves, pick out the meat, and leave the shells whole. then break the tails and claws, cut the meat very small, put it into a stewpan with a table spoonful of the essence of ham, two ounces of fresh butter, consumé and cream half a gill of each, a little beaten mace, one eschallot and parsley chopped very fine, and a few breadcrumbs. then mix all together over a fire for five minutes, season to the palate with cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon juice; fill the reserved shells with the mixture, strew fine breadcrumbs over, and bake them gently twenty minutes. when they are to be served up colour the crumbs with a salamander. n. b. in the same manner may be done a pickled crab. _meat cake._ cut the fillet from the inside of a rump of beef into small pieces, also lean veal, and pound them very fine in a marble mortar. then add a little lemon juice, pepper, salt, chopped parsley, basil, thyme, mushrooms, savory, and eschallots, a small quantity of each; some beaten spices, and yolks of eggs a sufficient quantity to bind it. then add and mix with your hands some fat bacon and lean of ham cut into the form of small dice. have ready a stewpan or a mould lined with bards of fat bacon, fill it with the mixture, press it down, put on the top bay leaves and a little rhenish wine, cover it with bards of bacon, put it into a moderate oven, and bake it thoroughly. when it is cold turn it out of the mould, trim it clean, set it on a dish, put chopped savory jelly round it, and a small modelled figure on the top; or the whole of the cake may be modelled. _collared pig._ bone the pig; then have ready some light forcemeat, slips of lean ham, pickled cucumbers, fat bacon, white meat of fowl, and omlet of eggs white and yellow. season the inside of the pig with beaten spices; then lay on them the forcemeat, and on that the slips of the above different articles alternately; after which roll it up, put it into a cloth, tie each end, sew the middle part, put it into a stewpan with a sufficient quantity of stock to cover it, and stew it two hours and a half. then take it out of the liquor, tie each end tighter, lay it between two boards, and put a weight upon it to press it. when cold take it out of the cloth, trim and serve it up whole, either modelled or plain, or cut into slices, and put chopped savory jelly round. n. b. in the same manner may be done a breast of veal, or a large fowl. _red beef for slices._ take a piece of thin flank of beef, and cut off the skin; then rub it well with a mixture made with two pounds of common salt, two ounces of bay salt, two ounces of salt petre, and half a pound of moist sugar, pounded in a marble mortar. put it into an earthen pan, and turn and rub it every day for a week; then take it out of the brine, wipe it, and strew over pounded mace, cloves, pepper, a little allspice, and plenty of chopped parsley and a few eschallots. then roll it up, bind it round with tape, boil it till tender, press it in like manner as collared pig, and when it is cold, cut into slices, and garnish with pickled barberries. _savory jelly._ take the liquor, when cold, that either poultry or meat was braised in, or some veal stock, taking care it be very free from fat. make it warm, and strain it through a tamis sieve into a clean stewpan; then season it to the palate with salt, lemon pickle, cayenne pepper, and tarragon or plain vinegar. add a sufficient quantity of dissolved isinglass to make it of a proper stiffness, and whisk into it plenty of whites of eggs, a small quantity of the yolks and shells, and add a little liquid of colour. then set it over a fire, and when it boils let it simmer a quarter of an hour, and run it through a jelly bag several times till perfectly bright. _aspect of fish._ put into a plain tin or copper mould warm savory jelly about an inch and an half deep; then take fresh smelts turned round, boil them gently in strong salt and water till done, and lay them on a drainer. when the savory jelly in the mould is quite cold, put the smelts upon it with the best side downwards; then put a little more jelly just lukewarm over the fish, and when that is cold fill the mould with more of the same kind. when it is to be served up dip the mould in warm water, put the dish upon the jelly, and turn it over. n. b. pieces of lobsters, fillets of soles, &c. may be done in the same manner. _aspect of meat or fowl._ bone either a shoulder of lamb or a fowl, and season the inside with pepper, salt, and a little beaten spice; then put into it some light forcemeat, sew it up, blanch, and then braise it in stock. when it is done lay it on a dish with the breast downward to preserve it as white as possible; and when the jelly which is in the mould is quite stiff, work on it a sprig or star with small slips of ham, pickle cucumber, breast of fowl, and omlets of egg white and yellow; then set it with a little jelly, and when cold put the meat or poultry upon it, and fill the mould with lukewarm jelly. when it is to be served up turn it out as the aspect of fish. n. b. in the same manner may be done pieces of meat or poultry without forcing. _canopies._ cut some pieces of the crumb of bread about four inches long, three inches wide, and one inch thick, and fry them in boiling lard till of a light brown colour; then put them on a drainer, and cut into slips some breast of fowl, anchovies picked from the bone, pickle cucumbers, and ham or tongue. then butter the pieces of bread on one side, and lay upon them alternately the different articles till filled. trim the edges, and put the pieces (cut into what form you please) upon a dish with slices of lemon round the rim, and serve in a sauce boat a little mixture of oil, vinegar, cayenne pepper, and salt. _solomongundy._ chop small and separately lean of boiled ham, breast of dressed fowl, picked anchovies, parsley, omlets of eggs white and yellow (the same kind as for garnishing), eshallots, a small quantity of pickle cucumbers, capers, and beet root. then rub a saucer over with fresh butter, put it in the center of a dish, and make it secure from moving. place round it in partitions the different articles separately till the saucer is covered, and put on the rim of the dish some slices of lemon. _salad of lobster._ take boiled hen lobsters, break the shells, and preserve the meat as white as possible. then cut the tails into halves, put them into the center of a dish with the red side upwards, and the meat of the claws whole. then place round the lobster a row of parsley chopped fine, and a row of the spawn from the inside chopped, and afterwards mix a little of each and strew over the top of the lobster. then put slices of lemon round the rim of the dish, and send in a sauce boat a mixture of oil, vinegar, mustard, cayenne pepper, and salt, a little of each. _french salad_ consists of the different herbs in season, as tarragon, chervil, sorrel, chives, endive, silician lettuces, watercresses, dandelion, beet root, celery, &c. all of which should be very young, fresh gathered, trimmed neat, washed clean, drained dry, and served up in a bowl. the sauce to be served up in a sauceboat, and to be made with oil, lemon pickle, vinegar, ketchup, cayenne pepper, a boiled yolk of an egg, and salt. n. b. some persons eat with this salad cold boiled turbot or other fish. _blancmange._ to a quart of new milk add an ounce of picked isinglass, a small stick of cinnamon, a piece of lemon peel, a few coriander seeds washed, six bitter almonds blanched and pounded, or a laurel leaf. put it over a fire, and when it boils simmer it till the isinglass is dissolved, and strain it through a tamis sieve into a bason. let it stand ten minutes, skim it, pour it gently into another bason free from sediment, and when it begins to congeal stir it well and fill the shapes. _dutch blancmange._ put a pint of warm cleared calves feet jelly into a stewpan; mix with it the yolks of six eggs, set it over a fire, and whisk it till it begins to boil. then set the pan in cold water and stir the mixture till nearly cold, to prevent it from curdling, and when it begins to thicken fill the shapes. when it is ready to be served up dip the shapes in warm water. _riband blancmange._ put into a shape some white blancmange two inches deep, and when it is quite cold put alternately, in the same manner, cleared calves feet jelly, white blancmange coloured with cochineal, or dutch blancmange. _cleared calves feet jelly._ take scalded calves feet, chop them into pieces, put them into a pot with plenty of water to cover them, boil them gently four or five hours, strain the liquor, and preserve it till the next day in order that it may be quite stiff. then take off the fat, and afterwards wash it with warm water to make it perfectly clean; after which put it into a stewpan, set it over a fire, and when it is dissolved season it well to the palate with lemon and seville orange juices, white wine and sugar, a piece of lemon peel, cinnamon, and coriander seeds whole, (or add a few drops of liquid of colour if thought requisite). then whisk into it plenty of whites of eggs, a few yolks, and some shells. let it boil gently a quarter of an hour, run it through a fine flannel bag several times till quite bright, and when it is nearly cold fill the shapes, which should be very clean and wiped dry. n. b. when seville oranges are not in season, orange flower water may be added, or (if approved) syrup of roses or quinces. old hock or madeira wine will make it of the best quality. _marbrée jelly._ put into a mould cleared calves feet jelly one inch deep, and when it is cold put on the center, with the ornamented side downwards, a medallion of wafer paper; or ripe fruits, such as, halves of peaches or nectarines of a fine colour, or black grapes; or small shapes of cold blancmange; or dried fruits, such as, cherries, barberries, green gages, &c. then set them with a little lukewarm jelly, and when that is quite cold fill the mould with some nearly cold. _bagnets a l'eau._ take half a pint of water, a stick of cinnamon, a bit of lemon peel, a gill of rhenish wine, and a few coriander seeds; sweeten to the palate with sugar, boil the ingredients ten minutes, add an ounce of fresh butter, and when it is melted strain the liquor to a sufficient quantity of flour to make it into a batter. then put it over the fire again to simmer gently, and add six yolks of eggs. have ready boiling lard, put into it pieces of the mixture of the bigness of a damson; fry them of a light brown colour, drain them, and serve them up with sifted sugar over. n. b. the butter should be well beaten. _apple fritters for a dish._ mix together three ounces of sifted flour, a little salt, a gill of cream or milk, and three eggs; beat them for ten minutes with a spoon or whisk. then pare twelve holland pippins, cut them into halves, core and put them into the batter. have ready boiling lard, take the halves out singly with a fork, fry them till done and of a light colour, drain them dry, serve them up with sifted sugar over, some pounded cinnamon on one plate, and seville oranges on another. n. b. peaches or pears may be done in the same manner; or oranges, which are to be peeled, divided into quarters, and then put into the batter. some jam likewise may be mixed with the batter instead of the apples, and fried in small pieces. _golden pippins a la cream._ take three gills of lisbon wine, a gill of water, a stick of cinnamon, a bit of lemon peel, a small quantity of the juice, and a few coriander seeds; sweeten well with lump sugar, and boil all together for ten minutes. then have ready twelve large ripe golden pippins pared, and cored with a small iron apple scoop. put them into a stewpan, strain the above liquor to them, and stew them gently till done; then take them out, put them into a trifle dish, and reduce the liquor to a strong syrup. after which mix with it a pint of cream, the yolks of ten eggs, and a dessert spoonful of syrup of cloves; then strain it, set it over a slow fire, and whisk till it is of a good thickness. put the pan in cold water, stir the mixture some time, let it cool, and when the pippins are to be served up pour the cream over them, and put round the edge of the dish leaves of puff paste baked of a pale colour. n. b. the same kind of cream may be put over codlins, gooseberries, or cranberries, when made into pies, only omitting the pippins. _golden pippins another way._ take half a pint of white wine, a gill of water, a stick of cinnamon, a few cloves and coriander seeds, a bit of lemon peel, a little juice, and plenty of loaf sugar; boil them a quarter of an hour. then strain the liquor to twelve large pippins pared and cored, stew them gently till done, and the liquor reduced to a strong syrup of a consistence sufficient to adhere to the apples, and put them into a dish. when cold serve them up with chopped cleared calves feet jelly round them. _stewed pippins another way._ proceed with the same ingredients as the preceding, but when the apples are half done lay them on a dish to cool, and add to the syrup the yolk of eight eggs and three gills of cream; then strain and set it over a fire, whisk it till of a good thickness, and let it stand till cold. have ready boiling lard, dip the apples in batter of the same kind as for fritters, and fry them of a light colour; then drain them, and when cold serve them up with the cream under and sifted sugar over them. _cream for pies._ take a pint of new milk; then add a few coriander seeds washed, a bit of lemon peel, a laurel leaf, a stick of cinnamon, four cloves, a blade of mace, some sugar, and boil all together ten minutes. then have ready in another stewpan the yolks of six eggs and half a table spoonful of flour mixed, and strain the milk to them. then set it over a slow fire, whisk it till it is of a good consistence, and be careful it does not curdle. when it is cold it may be put over green codlins, gooseberries, or currants, &c. in pies. n. b. the cream may be perfumed, by adding, when nearly cold, a dessert spoonful of orange flower water, a table spoonful of syrup of roses, and a little ambergrise. fruit pies, likewise, should be sweetened with sifted loaf sugar, covered with puff or tart paste, and when served up the top to be cut off, the fruit covered with either of the above creams, and small leaves of baked puff paste put round. _mince meat._ roast, with a paper over it, a fillet of beef cut from the inside of a rump, and when cold chop it small. to two pounds of meat add two pounds of beef suet chopped fine, two pounds of chopped apples, one pound of raisins stoned and chopped, one pound of currants washed and picked, half a pound of citron, a quarter of a pound of candied orange and a quarter of a pound of candied lemon peels cut into small slices; add some beaten cinnamon, mace, cloves, allspice, a small quantity of each, a pint of brandy, and a very little salt. then mix all the ingredients well together, put them into a pan, and keep it close covered in a cool place. n. b. it is advised that the meat be omitted, and instead of it add one pound of the yolks of hard eggs chopped. _compote of oranges._ peel and divide into quarters china oranges; then put them into a clear syrup, boil them gently five minutes, and take them out. put into a gill of water a small quantity of cinnamon, cloves, and mace, the juice of two oranges, and a bit of the peel; boil them ten minutes, strain the liquor to the syrup, and reduce it to a strong consistence. then put into it the quarters of the oranges, and when they are cold set them in a trifle dish, and put some cleared calves feet jelly chopped round them. _tea cream._ take a pint of cream, a few coriander seeds washed, a stick of cinnamon, a bit of lemon peel, and sugar; boil them together for ten minutes; then add a gill of very strong green tea. have ready the whites of six eggs beat up, and strain to them the cream; whisk it over a fire till it begins to thicken, then fill cups or a deep dish, and when cold garnish with whole ratafias. _virgin cream._ to be done in the same manner, only omitting the tea, and adding slices of citron when put into a dish. _coffee cream._ to be done in the same way, but instead of the liquid boil an ounce of whole coffee in the cream. _burnt cream._ to be done in the same manner as virgin cream, and when it is quite cold and to be served up put sifted sugar over, and burn it with a clear red-hot salamander. put round the edge of the dish some ratafias. _pastry cream._ to a pint of cream add half a table spoonful of pounded cinnamon, a little grated lemon peel, three table spoonfuls of flour, two ounces of oiled fresh butter, eight yolks and the whites of three eggs well beaten, half a pound of sifted sugar, and a table spoonful of orange flower water. put the ingredients over a fire, and when it begins to thicken add four ounces of ratafias and two ounces of pounded citron, mixing all well together. let it stand till quite cold, then cut it into what shapes you please, and dip them singly into yolk of raw egg; then breadcrumb and fry them in boiling lard till of a light colour, drain them dry, and serve them up hot. _almond paste._ blanch and pound very fine half a pound of jordan almonds, add six yolks of eggs, a sufficient quantity of flour to bind it well, an ounce of oiled fresh butter, and sweeten to the palate with sifted sugar. mix the ingredients thoroughly in a marble mortar, and when it becomes a stiff paste roll it out, and cut it into what shapes you please; bake them, and when cold fill them with creams or jellies. _cheese cakes._ to three quarts of new milk add three parts of a gill of runnet; let it stand in a warm place, and when it is thoroughly turned drain it well, and mix into it with your hand half a pound of fresh butter, and sweeten to the palate with pounded sugar. then add a few currants washed and picked, a little citron, candied orange and lemon peels cut into small slices, and an ounce of jordan almonds pounded fine. then beat up three eggs, put them with the mixture, sheet the pans with puff paste, fill them with the curd, and bake them in a brisk oven. or the paste may be made with half a pound of sifted flour, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and cold pump water, mixed lightly and rolled out. _almond nuts._ take three eggs, their weight of sifted sugar, flour of the weight of two eggs, and two ounces of almonds blanched and pounded fine; then beat the whites to a solid froth, and mix the ingredients well with it. have ready wafer or writing paper rubbed over with fresh butter, and with a teaspoon drop the mixture upon the paper in rows and bake them. _to make syllabub._ to a pint and a half of cream add a pint of sweet wine, a gill of brandy, sifted sugar, and a little lemon juice; whisk it well, take off the froth with a spoon, lay it upon a large sieve, fill the glasses three parts full with the liquor, add a little grated nutmeg, and put the froth over. _trifle._ put into a deep china or glass dish half a pound of spunge biscuits, two ounces of ratafias, two ounces of jordan almonds blanched and pounded, citron and candied orange peel an ounce of each cut into small slices, some currant jelly and raspberry jam, a small quantity of grated nutmeg and lemon peel, half a pint of sweet wine, and a little of the liquor of the syllabub. then make the same kind of cream as for pies, and when cold put it over the ingredients. when it is to be served up put plenty of the stiff froth of a syllabub raised high on the cream, and garnish with coloured comfits or rose leaves, which are recommended for elegance. _tarts or tartlets._ sheet tart or tartlet pans with puff paste a quarter of an inch thick, trim round the edge with a sharp knife; then fill with raspberry or apricot jam, or orange marmalade or stewed apple, and put fine strings of paste across in what form you please. bake them in a brisk oven, and be careful not to let the top colour too much. _paste for stringing tartlets._ cut a bit of puff paste into pieces, mix with it half a handful of flour, a little cold water, and let it be of a moderate stiffness, and mould it with the hands till it draws into fine threads. roll a piece out three inches long and two inches broad; then cut it into slips, draw them out singly, and put them across the tarts in any form, which may be repeated two or three times over each other, as it will add much to their appearance when baked. _to stew apples for tarts._ pare, cut into quarters, and core, some apples; put them into a stewpan, add to them a piece of lemon peel, a little water, and a stick of cinnamon. cover the pan close, put it over a fire till the apples are dissolved, sweeten to the palate with sifted sugar, add a table spoonful of syrup of cloves, and rub them through a hair sieve. let it stand till cold before it is put into the paste. n. b. to make a very fine flavoured tart, stew golden pippins in the same manner, and when they are rubbed through the sieve add only half a table spoonful of syrup of cloves, and mix well with it a quarter of a pound of pine-apple jam. this mixture will keep a month if close covered. _fried puffs with sweetmeats._ roll out puff paste half an inch thick, cut it into slips of three inches wide, the slips into square pieces, and put on each some sweetmeat of any kind. fold the paste, and run a jagger iron round to form it, or cut it with a sharp knife. have ready boiling lard, fry them of a light colour, drain them dry, and serve them up with sifted sugar over. _pyramid paste._ take a sheet of puff paste rolled of half an inch thick; cut or stamp it into oval forms, the first to be the size of the bottom of the dish in which it is to be served up, the second smaller, and so on till it becomes a pyramid; then put each piece separately on paper laid on a baking plate, and when the oven is ready, egg the top part of the pieces and bake them of a light colour. when they are done take them off the paper, lay them on a large dish till quite cold, and when to be served up set the largest piece in the dish for which it was formed, and put on it raspberry or apricot jams or currant jelly, the next size on that and more sweetmeats, proceeding in the same manner till all the pieces are placed on each other. put dried fruits round the pyramid, such as green gages, barberries, or cherries. n. b. instead of stamping the pieces it is thought better to cut them with a sharp knife; then to cut out small pieces round the edges to make them appear like spires, as, being done in this manner, it causes the paste to appear lighter. _iceing for a cake._ whisk the whites of four eggs to a solid froth, and put to it as much treble refined sifted sugar as you can; then add the juice of a lemon, mix all well together with a spoon, and spread it over the cake when warm. _cherries in brandy for desserts._ on a dry day gather the largest ripe morella cherries, and be careful they are not bruised; then cut off the stalk half way, prick each cherry with a needle four times, put them into glasses, add strong best brandy enough to cover them, and sweeten with clarified sugar. tie over them a bladder washed and wiped dry, some white leather over that bound tight, and turn the glasses bottom upwards. n. b. grapes or apricots may be done in the same manner. _to make buns._ put five pounds of best flour into a wooden bowl, set a spunge of it with a gill of yeast and a pint of warm milk; then mix with it one pound of sifted sugar, one pound of oiled fresh butter, coriander seeds, cinnamon, and mace, a small quantity of each pounded fine. roll the paste into buns, set them on a baking plate rubbed over with a little butter, put them in a moderate oven to prove, then wash them with a paste brush dipped in warm milk, and bake them of a good colour. _orgeat._ blanch a pound of jordan and one ounce of bitter almonds, pound them in a marble mortar till very fine; then put to them a pint of pump water, rub them through a tamis cloth till the almonds are quite dry, and add to the liquor more water to make it of a proper consistence for drinking; after which sweeten with clarified sugar, or sugarcandy, or capillaire; then put it into a decanter, and when it is to be used shake it together. _orange marmalade._ take seville oranges when in season, which is generally at the beginning of march; cut them into halves, and the halves again into thin slices, which put with the juice, but not too much of the core, and take away the pips. to every pound weight of orange add two pounds of sifted sugar and a gill of water; then put them into a preserving pan, set the pan over a quick fire, and when the mixture boils keep stirring and skimming till it becomes of a proper stiffness, which may be known by putting a little into a saucer and setting it in cold water. then fill the pots with the marmalade, and when cold put over white paper dipped in brandy; after which cover the pots with paper and white leather, and preserve them in a dry place for use. n. b. in the same way try the proper stiffness of other jellies or jams, and cover them in like manner. _raspberry jam._ to every pound weight of ripe picked raspberries, add fourteen ounces of sifted sugar and half a gill of currant juice; put them into a preserving pan, set them over a brisk fire, and when it boils skim it well and let it simmer till it becomes of a good consistence. n. b. the raspberries may be mashed with a spoon previous to adding the sugar, or rubbed through a wicker sieve. _quince jam._ pare ripe quinces, cut them into thin slices, put them into a stewpan with a sufficient quantity of water to cover them, let them boil gently till tender close covered, and rub them through a large hair sieve; add to a pound of the pulp a pound and a half of sifted sugar and half a gill of syrup of cloves; then put them into a preserving pan, and let them simmer together till of a good strength. n. b. a little of this jam mixed with apples in a pie will make it very good. _green gage jam._ rub ripe gages through a large hair sieve, and put them into a preserving pan; then, to a pound of pulp add a pound of sifted sugar; after which boil to a proper thickness, skim it clean, and put it into small pots. _apricot jam._ take apricots when nearly ripe, pare and cut them into halves, break the stones, blanch the kernels, and add them to the halves. to a pound of fruit put a pound of sifted sugar and a gill of the water in which the parings have been boiled. then set it over a brisk fire, stir the mixture well together till it becomes of a good strength, but let it not be very stiff. _preserved apricots for tarts or desserts._ cut ripe apricots in halves, blanch the kernels and add them to the fruit. have ready clarified sugar boiling hot, put the apricots into it, and let them stand till cold. then boil the syrup again, add the apricots as before, and when they are cold put the halves into small pots or glasses, and if the syrup is too thin boil it again, and when it is cold put it to the fruit, and cover it with paper dipped in brandy. n. b. green gages may be done whole in the same manner, or green gooseberries with the seeds taken out. these fruits may be served up with the syrup; or they may be dried on tin plates, in a moderately heated oven, and when almost cold put sifted sugar over. _currant jelly._ take two thirds of ripe red currants and one third of white, pick them, put them into a preserving pan over a good fire, and when they are dissolved run their liquor through a flannel bag. to a pint of juice add fourteen ounces of sifted sugar. set it over a brisk fire, let it boil quick, skim it clean, and reduce it to a good stiffness, which may be known as before directed in orange marmalade. n. b. in the same manner may be made black currant jelly, but allowing sixteen ounces of sugar to a pint of juice. _crisp tart paste._ take half a pound of sifted flour, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, two ounces of sifted sugar, and two eggs beaten; mix them with pump water, and knead the paste well. _eggs and bacon another way._ boil six eggs for five minutes, then peel and cut them into halves; after which take out the yolks, put them into a marble mortar with a small quantity of the white meat of dressed fowl, lean ham, a little chopped parsley, one eschallot, a table spoonful of cream, a dessert spoonful of ketchup, a little cayenne, some breadcrumbs, and sifted mace, a very small quantity of each. pound all well together, fill the halves of the whites with the mixture, bake them gently ten minutes, and serve them up on rashers of bacon or ham broiled, and put some cullis over them. _to make puff paste._ mould with the hands a pound of fresh or good salt butter and lay it in cold water; then sift a pound of best white flour, rub lightly into it half the butter, mix it with cold spring water, roll it out, put on it (in pieces) half the remaining butter, fold the paste, roll it again, and add the remainder of the butter. strew lightly upon it a little flour, fold it together, set it in a cold place, and when it is wanted for use, roll it out twice more. n. b. in summer time the white of an egg beat up may be added with the water that mixes it. _to make an almond cake._ take eight ounces of jordan and one ounce of bitter almonds, blanch and pound them very fine; then beat in with the almonds the yolks of eight eggs, and let the whites be whisked up to a solid froth. then take eight table spoonfuls of sifted sugar, five spoonfuls of fine flour, a small quantity of grated lemon peel and pounded cinnamon, and mix all the ingredients. rub the inside of a mould with fresh butter, fill it with the mixture, and bake it of a light colour. _almond custards._ add to a pint and a half of cream a small stick of cinnamon, a blade of mace, a bit of lemon peel, some nutmeg, and sugar to the palate. boil the ingredients together ten minutes, and strain it; then blanch and pound (quite fine) three ounces of jordan and eight single bitter almonds; after which rub through a hair sieve, add the fine pulp to the cream, likewise a little syrup of roses, and the yolks of six eggs beat up, and put the mixture into small cups; or it may be baked in a dish with a rim of puff paste round it. n. b. plain custards may be made in the same manner, but instead of almonds add a little orange flower water. _rhubarb tart._ take slips of green rhubarb, wash it, and cut it into small pieces the bigness of young gooseberries; put them into a dish, sweeten with sifted sugar, add the juice of a lemon, cover it with puff paste, and bake it. serve it up either plain or with cream, the same as for an apple pie. _orange pudding._ peel four seville oranges thin, boil them till tender, rub them through a hair sieve, and preserve the fine pulp. take a pound of naples biscuits, a little grated nutmeg, two ounces of fresh butter, and pour over them a quart of boiling milk or cream in which a stick of cinnamon has been boiled. when the ingredients are cold mix with them the pulp and eight eggs well beaten, sweeten to the palate, and (if approved) add half a gill of brandy. edge a dish with puff paste, put in the mixture, garnish the top with strings of paste as for tartlets, and bake it in a moderately heated oven. n. b. a lemon pudding may be made in the same manner. _rice pudding._ to a pint and a half of cream or new milk add a few coriander seeds, a bit of lemon peel, a stick of cinnamon, and sugar to the palate. boil them together ten minutes, and strain it to two ounces of ground rice, which boil for ten minutes more. let it stand till cold, and then put to it two ounces of oiled fresh butter, a little brandy, grated nutmeg, six eggs well beaten, and a gill of syrup of pippins. mix all together, put it into a dish with puff paste round it, and bake it, taking care it is not done too much. should the pudding be made with whole rice it should be boiled till nearly done before the cream is strained to it, and if approved a few currants may be added. n. b. millet or sago (whole or ground) may be done in the same manner. _tansey pudding._ blanch and pound very fine a quarter of a pound of jordan almonds; then put them into a stewpan, add a gill of the syrup of roses, the crumb of a french roll, a little grated nutmeg, half a gill of brandy, two table spoonfuls of tansey juice, three ounces of fresh butter, and some slices of citron. pour over it a pint and a half of boiling cream or milk, sweeten to the palate, and when it is cold mix it well, add the juice of a lemon and eight eggs beaten. it may be either boiled or baked. _almond pudding._ to be made as a tansey pudding, only omitting the french bread and tansey juice, and adding as substitutes a quarter of a pound of naples biscuits and a spoonful of orange flower water. _marrow pudding._ boil with a quart of new milk cinnamon and lemon peel, and strain it to half a pound of beef marrow finely chopped, a few currants washed and picked, some slices of citron and orange peel candied, a little grated nutmeg, brandy, syrup of cloves, a table spoonful of each, and half a pound of naples biscuits. when the mixture is cold add eight eggs beat up, omitting five of the whites, and bake it in a dish with puff paste round it. _bread pudding._ to be made as a marrow pudding, only omitting the naples biscuits and a quarter of a pound of the beef marrow, adding as a substitute the crumb of french bread. _a rich plum pudding._ take one pound of raisins stoned, one pound of currants washed and picked, one pound of beef suet chopped, two ounces of jordan almonds blanched and pounded, citron, candied orange and lemon peel pounded, two ounces of each, a little salt, some grated nutmeg and sugar, one pound of sifted flour, a gill of brandy, and eight eggs well beaten. mix all together with cream or milk, and let it be of a good thickness; then tie it in a cloth, boil it five hours, and serve it up with melted butter over. _batter pudding._ to a pound of flour sifted add a little salt and a gill of milk, mix them till smooth, beat well six eggs, and add them together with more milk till the batter is of a proper thickness; then put the mixture into a bason rubbed with fresh butter, tie a cloth over, boil it an hour and a quarter, turn it out of the bason, and serve it up with melted butter, sugar, and grated nutmeg, in a sauce boat; to which may be added also (if approved) a table spoonful of white wine, or a dessert spoonful of vinegar. n. b. when puddings are put into the pot the water in general should boil. _boiled apple pudding._ make a paste with flour, chopped beef suet, or marrow, a little salt and water; then knead it well, roll it out thin, sheet a bowl or bason with it, fill it with good baking apples pared, cut into quarters and cored; add lemon peel grated, cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon pounded fine, a small quantity of each. lay a thin paste on the top, tie the bason in a cloth, and let the pudding boil till well done. when it is to be served up cut a piece out of the top and mix with the apples, sugar to the palate, and add a bit of fresh butter and a little syrup of quinces. _apple dumplings._ pare large baking apples, core them with a scoop, fill the cavities with quince marmalade, roll out (a quarter of an inch thick) the same kind of paste as for an apple pudding, mould over each apple a piece of paste, and boil them separately in a cloth, or wash them with whites of eggs with a paste brush, and bake them. serve them up with grated nutmeg, sifted sugar, and fresh butter, in different saucers. _baked apple pudding._ stew the apples as for a tourte or tartlets, and when they are cold add to them six eggs well beaten; put the mixture into a dish with puff paste round the rim, and bake it. _damson pudding._ make paste and sheet a bason in the same manner as for an apple pudding; then fill it with ripe or bottled damsons, cover it with paste, boil it, and when it is to be served up cut a piece out of the top, mix with the fruit, sifted sugar to the palate, and a small quantity of pounded cinnamon or grated nutmeg. n. b. puddings made with gooseberries, currants, or bullies, may be done in the same manner. _damson pudding another way._ to a pint of cream or milk add six eggs, four table spoonfuls of sifted flour, a very little salt, a small quantity of pounded cinnamon, and whisk them well together. have ready ripe or bottled damsons, rub them through a hair sieve, add to the mixture a sufficient quantity of the fine pulp to make it in substance a little thicker than batter, sweeten it to the palate, put it into a buttered bason, flour a cloth and tie over, boil it an hour and a quarter, and when it is to be served up turn it out of the bason and put melted butter over. n. b. in the same manner may be done ripe peaches, nectarines, gooseberries, apricots, green gages, or egg plums; or instead of boiling may be baked in a tart pan, sheeted with puff paste. _baked fruit pudding another way._ rub gooseberries or other ripe fruit through a hair sieve; and to half a pint of the fine pulp add a quarter of a pound of naples biscuits, three ounces of oiled fresh butter, half a pint of cream, grated nutmeg, sugar to the palate, and six eggs. beat all the ingredients together for ten minutes; then add slices of citron, and bake the mixture in a dish with puff paste round the rim. _muffin pudding with dried cherries._ to a pint and a half of milk add a few coriander seeds, a bit of lemon peel, sugar to the palate, and boil them together ten minutes. then put four muffins into a pan, strain the milk over them, and, when they are cold, mash them with a wooden spoon; add half a gill of brandy, half a pound of dried cherries, a little grated nutmeg, two ounces of jordan almonds blanched and pounded very fine, and six eggs well beaten. mix all together and boil in a bason, or bake it in a dish with paste round it. _potatoe pudding._ peel potatoes, steam them, and rub them through a fine sieve. to half a pound of pulp add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter oiled, sifted sugar to the palate, half a gill of brandy, a little pounded cinnamon, half a pint of cream, a quarter of a pound of currants washed and picked, and eight eggs well beaten. mix all together, bake (or boil) the pudding, and serve it up with melted butter in a sauceboat. _carrot pudding._ take red carrots, boil them, cut off the red part, and rub them through a sieve or tamis cloth. to a quarter of a pound of pulp add half a pound of crumb of french bread, sifted sugar, a spoonful of orange flower water, half a pint of cream, some slices of candied citron, some grated nutmeg, a quarter of a pound of oiled fresh butter, eight eggs well beaten, and bake it in a dish with a paste round the rim. _ice cream._ take a pint and a half of good cream, add to it half a pound of raspberry or other jams, or ripe fruits, and sifted sugar; mix them well together and rub through a fine sieve. then put it into a freezing mould, set it in ice and salt, and stir it till it begins to congeal. after which put at the bottom of a mould white paper, fill with the cream, put more paper over, cover close, set it in ice till well frozen, and when it is to be turned out for table dip the mould in cold water. or it may be served up in glasses, taking the cream out of the freezing mould. _observation on stores._ as frequent mention is made of syrups, jams, pounded spices, sugar sifted, grated nutmeg, and orange flower water, to be used in puddings and pies; and as a very small quantity of each is wanted at a time; it is therefore recommended (as a saving of trouble and expence) that the syrups, &c. be made when the fruits are in season, and preserved in small bottles with the different stores. but should any of the receipts be thought too expensive or rich, it is recommended, likewise, that a curtailment be made in some of the articles, pursuing nearly the same process, they being written in that state only to shew their first and best manner. the same observation may be borne in remembrance with respect to made dishes, roasting, pastry, or sauces. _partridge soup._ cut to pieces two or three picked and drawn partridges or pheasants, an old fowl, a knuckle of veal, some lean ham, celeri, onions, turnips, a carrot, and a blade of mace. put them into a stewpot with half a pint of water, set them over a fire close covered, and steam them till three parts done. then add three quarts of beef stock, simmer till the ingredients are tender, strain the liquor through a fine sieve, and when cold take the fat clean off, add a little liquid of colour, a small quantity of salt and cayenne pepper, whisk with it two eggs and their shells, clear it over a good fire, and strain it through a tamis cloth; then cut half a middling-sized white cabbage into small slices, scald it, add to the soup, and boil it gently till tender. _collared eels._ skin and bone two large eels, lay them flat, and season with plenty of parsley, an eschallot chopped very fine, pepper, salt, beaten spices, and mushroom powder, a small quantity of each. then roll and bind them tight with tape, put them into a stewpan with a pint of veal stock and a little lemon juice, simmer them over a fire till done, put them on a dish, skim the liquor free from fat, season with salt to the palate, clear it with two eggs, strain it through a tamis cloth, boil it down gently till of a strong jelly, and put it into a bason. when the eels are cold, take off the tape, trim the ends, wipe them dry, serve them up with the chopped jelly round them, a few bunches of pickled barberries on their tops, and slices of lemon round the rim of the dish. n. b. should the liquor be pale at the time it is cleared, add a few drops of liquid of colour. _white puddings._ to half a pound of beef marrow chopped fine, add six ounces of jordan almonds blanched and pounded quite fine, with a dessert spoonful of orange flower water, half a pound of the crumb of french bread, half a pound of currants washed and picked, a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, a little mace, cloves, and cinnamon pounded, a gill of mountain wine, and the yolks of four eggs beaten. mix all well together, fill the entrails of a pig three parts full, tie each end, and boil them half an hour. _sausage meat._ take the lean meat of young pork chopped small, and to a pound of it add a pound of the flay and fat chopped, some breadcrumbs, nutmeg, allspice and mace pounded, a small quantity of each, a little grated lemon peel, sage, parsley, thyme, and two eschallots, chopped very fine, an egg beaten, and season with pepper and salt. mix all well together, with the hands, or pound it in a marble mortar; then make it into cakes and broil it, or put it into the entrails of a pig nicely cleaned. _calf's liver roasted._ make an incision in the under part of a calf's liver, fill it with a stuffing made with beef marrow, breadcrumbs, grated nutmeg, one eschallot, two mushrooms, parsley and thyme chopped fine, and one egg beaten. then sew it up, lard it with small slips of fat bacon, put a piece of veal caul over, and roast it gently. when it is to be served up take off the caul, glaize the top, put under it some good cullis sauce, and plenty of fried parsley round. _to dry herbs._ gather marjoram, savory, thyme, basil, parsley, &c. on a dry day, when in season, and not blown. divide them separately into small bunches, as in that state they will dry best. then hang them on a line in a dry room or place where the air has free admission, but no direct rays of the sun. when they are perfectly dry (which will require two or three weeks to accomplish) put them in rows in boxes close covered, and set them in a dry place. _to make anchovie liquor to be used in fish sauces._ put into a stewpan one pound of best anchovies, two quarts of water, two bay leaves, some whole pepper, a little scraped horseradish, a sprig of thyme, two blades of mace, six eschallots chopped small, a gill of red port, half the rind of a lemon, a gill of ketchup; boil all together twenty minutes, and rub them through a tamis cloth with a wooden spoon. when the essence is cold put it into pint bottles, cork them close, and set them in a dry place. _potted lobster._ boil two live hen lobsters in strong salt and water till half done; then take the meat and spawn out of the shells, put it into a stewpan, add a little beaten and sifted mace, cloves, nutmeg, pepper, salt, a small quantity of lemon juice, a spoonful of essence of ham, a dessert spoonful of anchovie liquor, the same as for fish sauce, and simmer them over a fire for ten minutes. then pound the meat in a marble mortar, reduce the liquor almost to a glaize, put it to the meat with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, mix them well together, press the mixture down into small flat preserving pots, cover with clarified butter, and when cold put white paper over the pots, and set them in a dry place. n. b. prawns, shrimps, crayfish, and crabs, may be done in the same manner. _to clarify butter for potting._ put fresh butter into a stewpan with a spoonful of cold water, set it over a gentle fire till oiled, skim it, and let it stand till the sediment is settled; then pour off the oil, and when it begins to congeal put it over the different ingredients. _potted cheese._ to a pound of grated parmezan or cheshire cheese add three ounces of cold fresh butter, a little sifted mace, and a tea spoonful of mustard. mix all well in a marble mortar, put it into small pots, cover with clarified butter, and set the pots in a cold dry place. _potted veal._ cut small a pound of lean white veal, put it into a stewpan, with two ounces of fresh butter, the juice of a lemon, pepper, salt, sifted mace, a bay leaf, allspice, cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, and mushroom powder, a small quantity of each, a little parsley, thyme, savory, and two eschallots chopped fine. put them over a fire and stew them ten minutes; then pound them, and add a pound of the mellow part of a boiled pickle tongue and half a pound of cold fresh butter. mix them well together with two eggs beaten; then press the mixture down tight into small pots, cover them with paper, put them into a moderate oven, bake them twenty minutes, and when the meat is cold put clarified butter over. _potted larks or small birds._ pass them with the same ingredients as for veal, and when they are half done take them out and put the lean veal in. when the forcemeat is made put the birds into the pots with it, bake them, and proceed in the same manner as with potted veal. n. b. pheasants, partridges, chickens, &c. may be done in the same way, but will take a longer time baking. _to dry morells, mushrooms, and champignons._ take morells and champignons of the largest size, forced mushrooms of the size of a shilling, and let them be gathered fresh; then take off the stalk, wash them free from grit, drain them dry with a cloth, run a fine twine through them with a large needle, hang them up in a warm dry place, and when they are perfectly dry put them into paper bags in boxes close covered. when they are wanted for use lay them in warm water for half an hour, and prepare them as if they were fresh. _mushroom powder._ after the mushrooms or champignons are dried whole they may be set before a fire till crisp; then grind and sift them through a fine sieve, and preserve the powder in small bottles close corked. _potted beef._ take two pounds of the fillet out of the inside of a rump of beef and two pounds of best fat bacon. cut them small, put them into a marble mortar, add to them a small quantity of parsley, thyme, savory, four eschallots chopped fine, some pepper, salt, two spoonsful of essence of ham, a spoonful of mushroom powder, sifted mace, cloves, and allspice, a little of each, two eggs beaten, and a gill of rhenish wine. pound all well together till quite fine; then fill small pots with the mixture, cover with paper, bake it very gently for forty minutes, and when cold cover with clarified butter. _tarragon vinegar._ put into a stone jar half a pound of fresh gathered tarragon leaves and two quarts of best common vinegar, and let them ferment a fortnight; then run it through a flannel bag, and add to it a quarter of an ounce of isinglass dissolved in cyder. put it into a clean jar, let it stand till fine, pour it off, put it into small bottles, cork them close, and set them in a dry place. n. b. in the same manner may be done elder flowers, &c. &c. _walnut ketchup for fish sauces._ to a quart of walnut pickle add a quarter of a pound of anchovies and three gills of red port; boil them till reduced one third, strain it, and when cold preserve it in small bottles close corked. _to pickle tongues, &c._ take large tongues perfectly fresh, cut some of the root away, make an incision in the under part, rub them well with common salt, and lay them in a tub or pan close covered for four days. then pound together two parts of saltpetre, one part of common salt, one part of bay salt, and one part of moist sugar. rub the tongues well with the mixture, put all into the pan, and turn them every two days till pickled enough, which will be in ten days. n. b. pigs faces and hams to be done in the same manner, but according to their size let them lay in the different pickles for longer periods, and when well coloured smoke them. if it be wished to have the hams or tongues of a westphalia flavour add some socho to the pickle. _india pickle._ take large fresh cauliflowers in the month of july, pick them into small pieces, wash them clean, put them into a pan with plenty of salt over them for three days; then drain and lay them separately to dry in the sun, repeatedly turning them till they are almost of a brown colour, which will require several days. then put plenty of whole ginger, slices of horseradish, peeled garlick, whole long pepper, peeled eschallots and onions, into salt and water for one night; drain and dry them also; and when the ingredients are ready, boil more than a sufficient quantity of vinegar to cover them, and to two quarts of it add an ounce of the best pale turmeric, and put the flowers and the other ingredients into stone jars, pour the vinegar boiling hot over, cover them till the next day, then boil the pickle again, and the same on the third day; after which fill the jars with liquor, cover them over close with bladder and white leather, and set them in a dry place. n. b. in the same manner may be done white cabbages cut into half quarters, whole french beans, heads of celery, heads of asparagus, onions whole or sliced, or pickling melons peeled thin, cut into halves, and formed like an indian mango. _to dry artichoke bottoms._ gather the largest firm artichokes when in season, cut off the stalks, and boil them till the leaves and choke can be taken away. afterwards put them on a baking plate and set them in a very slow heated oven, or hang them up in a warm place to dry, and when perfectly so put them into paper bags. when they are wanted for use lay them in warm water and salt, and when pliable trim them neat, braise them in stock and lemon juice, which will preserve them white, and when they are done enough, if for ragout, cut them into pieces; if for dishes, serve them whole with good cullis sauce over them. _to pickle cucumbers, &c._ gather jerkins not too large, lay them in a strong brine of salt and water for three days, then wipe them dry, and put them into stone jars. then put a sufficient quantity of vinegar to cover them into a preserving pan, add plenty of whole ginger and black pepper, a middling quantity of mace, allspice and cloves, some slices of horseradish, peeled onions, eschallots, and a small quantity of garlick. let the ingredients boil for ten minutes, and pour them with the liquor over the cucumbers; cover the jars with cabbage leaves and a plate, set them in a warm place, the next day drain the liquor from them, boil it, and pour over them again, and if on the third day they are not green enough, boil the vinegar again, pour it over, and when cold tie bladder and white leather over the jars, and set them in a dry place. n. b. in the same manner may be done walnuts, love apples, barberries, capsicums, french beans, nasturtiums, and small pickling melons peeled very thin and cut into quarters. _rules to be observed in pickling._ it is recommended that the best common vinegar be in general used for pickling, and that it be put into a well-cleaned copper or brass-preserving pan just before it is to be put over the fire, and when it boils not to remain in the pan. there can be no occasion of the many arts that are used in order to preserve the ingredients green, if the vegetables are gathered fresh, on a dry day, when in season, and the process followed that has been recommended. further directions could be given that might be attended with greater expence, but which would scarcely answer a better purpose, excepting only to those who are in the habit of extensive practice. _to pickle onions._ peel small button onions into milk and water, in which put plenty of salt; set it over a fire, and when it boils strain the onions, wipe them dry, and put them into glasses. have ready cold white wine vinegar, in which whole white pepper, ginger, mace, and slices of horseradish have been boiled. pour it over the onions, and cover them with bladder and leather. _to pickle mushrooms._ take a sufficient quantity of double distilled white wine vinegar to cover the mushrooms; add to it whole white pepper, ginger, mace, peeled eschallots, and a small quantity of garlick if approved; boil all together ten minutes and let it stand till cold. then peel fresh forced button mushrooms into water, wash them clean, strain, and put them into a stewpan. to a quart of mushrooms add the juice of a lemon and a table spoonful of salt. cover the pan close, set it over a fire, and when the liquor is sufficiently drawn from the mushrooms put the whole into glasses and cover them with the pickle. tie bladder and white leather over the glasses. the general rule has been deviated from of making the pickle for onions and mushrooms with double distilled white wine vinegar, as in this instance it is requisite to preserve them white. it is likewise recommended that they be put into small jars or glasses for use; for this reason, that, if exposed to the air but for a short space of time, they will discolour. _to pickle beet roots._ boil the roots till three parts done, and cut them into slices of an inch thick. then take a sufficient quantity of vinegar to cover them, and add to it whole allspice, a few cloves, mace, black pepper, slices of horseradish, some onions, eschallots, a little pounded ginger, some salt, and a few bay leaves. boil the ingredients together twenty minutes and strain it, and when the pickle is cold add a little bruised cochineal. put the slices of beet into jars, add the pickle, put a small quantity of sweet oil on the top, and tie the jars down close. n. b. when the beet is wanted for use mix well together sweet oil, mustard, some of the liquor in which the roots were pickled, and a very little sifted sugar. lay the slices in a deep plate and pour the mixture over. _to pickle artichoke bottoms._ take large fresh and sound artichokes, boil them just enough to take the leaves and choke away, then trim and lay them in salt and water; after which boil (for five minutes) a sufficient quantity of vinegar to cover them, in which put whole allspice, black pepper, ginger, mace, cloves, eschallots, salt, a few bay leaves, and some slices of horseradish. drain and wipe dry the bottoms, put them into jars, add the liquor and ingredients to them, and tie them down close. when they are fit for use serve them up in a deep plate with a little of the pickle, oil, and mustard mixed with it. _to pickle large cucumbers._ peel them very thin, cut them into halves, throw the seeds away, and lay the cucumbers in salt for a day. then wipe them dry, fill them with mustard seed, peeled eschallots, garlick, small slips of horseradish, and mace. after which tie them round with twine, put them into jars, pour over them some boiling liquor made as for india pickle or for jerkins, and cover them down close till fit for use. _to pickle red cabbage._ cut a fresh light red cabbage into slips, wash it clean, and put it into a pan with plenty of salt for two days. then boil together for half an hour a sufficient quantity of vinegar to cover the cabbage, together with bruised black pepper, mace, allspice, cloves, ginger, nutmeg, and mustard seed, a middling quantity of each. strain the vinegar and ingredients, and let them stand till cold; then add a little bruised cochineal, drain the cabbage on a large sieve till dry, put it into the jars, add the pickle, and tie the jars down close; or the liquor may be poured over the cabbage boiling hot; and when cold, before the jars are tied down, add a little bruised cochineal. this method will make the cabbage sooner fit for use. n. b. onions may be peeled and done whole in the same manner, and mixed with red cabbage. _to pickle currants._ to a quart of double distilled white wine vinegar add half a pound of loaf sugar, whole ginger, one ounce of salt, and a pint of red currant juice; boil all together, skim it clean, and let it stand till cold. then pick and put some best ripe red currants into glasses, fill them with the pickle, and cover them down close with bladder and leather. _to pickle barberries._ bruise and strain ripe barberries, and to a pint of juice add three pints of vinegar, a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, an ounce of salt, and a quarter of an ounce of pounded and sifted ginger. boil all together, skim it clean, and put bunches of the best ripe barberries into jars, pour the pickle boiling hot over, and let it stand till cold; then add a little bruised cochineal, and tie the jars over close. n. b. bunches of currants may be done in like manner. _sour crout._ take large white cabbages when in season, cut them into halves, and then into slips; wash them clean and drain them dry. after which put into a tub a layer of cabbage, then a layer of salt, afterwards a small quantity of pounded and sifted coriander seeds, and so on alternately; when the tub is nearly full put a weight over to press it well, and set it in a cold dry place covered with a coarse cloth. when it is wanted for use put some of the cabbage into boiling water over a fire for five minutes, and strain it. have ready some pieces of salted bouillie beef (of a quarter of a pound each) nearly boiled enough; likewise some pieces of pickle pork of the same number and weight. then put them into a stewpan, add the cabbage, fresh butter, a little vinegar, onions sliced very thin, some whole pepper, allspice, and mace, tied in a bit of cloth. let all stew till tender; then take out the spices, season the cabbage to the palate with cayenne pepper, and serve it up with fried onions (done as per receipt), with fried sausages round the crout. _peas pudding, to be eaten with boiled pork._ lay a pint of best split peas into water for half an hour; strain, pick, and put them into a cloth, tie them tight, and boil them gently for three hours. then put the peas out of the cloth into a stewpan, mash them well with a wooden spoon, add a bit of fresh butter, a little pepper and salt, the yolks of two eggs, and mix all well together. put the mixture into a clean cloth, tie it up, and let it hang near a fire for half an hour; then turn it out on a dish, and pour melted butter over. _currie, or pepper water._ cut a chicken into pieces, blanch and wash it, put it into a small stewpot, add a table spoonful of currie powder, half a pint of veal broth, and simmer them till half done. then peel and cut into thin slices two good sized onions, fry them with two ounces of fresh butter till nearly done and of a brown colour; then add them to the chicken, together with a pint of veal broth, half a bay leaf, the juice of half a lemon, two table spoonfuls of the juice of tamarinds, which are to be dissolved in boiling water and strained. boil all together till the chicken is nearly done; then take it out, put it into another stewpan, rub the ingredients through a tamis sieve, and add it to the fowl with a table spoonful of flour and water to thicken it. make it boil, season it well to the palate with cayenne pepper and salt, skim it clean, and serve it up in a bowl. _grills and sauce, which are generally eaten after dinner._ season some small pieces of ready-dressed fowl or turkey with pepper and salt, and grill them gently till of a nice brown colour. in the mean time put into a stewpan a gill and a half of cullis, an ounce of fresh butter, a table spoonful of mushroom ketchup, the juice of a lemon, and a small bit of the rind, a little cayenne pepper, a tea spoonful of the essence of anchovies, and one eschallot chopped fine. boil all the ingredients together five minutes, strain the liquor, and serve it up in a sauceboat; the pieces of chicken, &c. on a dish. _salmé of woodcocks._ take two woodcocks half roasted, cut them up neatly, and let the trimmings with the entrails be pounded in a marble mortar; then put them into a stewpan, add half a pint of cullis, two eschallots chopped, half a gill of red port, and a bit of rind of lemon; season to the palate with pepper, salt, and lemon juice. boil the ingredients ten minutes, and strain the liquor to the carved woodcocks, which stew gently till done. serve them up in a deep dish with sippets of fried bread strewed over. _to make a haggess._ take the heart and lights of a sheep, and blanch and chop them; then add a pound of beef suet chopped very fine, crumb of french roll soaked in cream, a little beaten cinnamon, mace, cloves, and nutmeg, half a pint of sweet wine, a pound of raisins stoned and chopped, a sufficient quantity of flour to make it of a proper consistence, a little salt, the yolks of three eggs, and some sheep chitterlings well cleaned and cut into slips. mix all together, and have ready a sheep's bag nicely cleaned, in which put the mixture; then tie it tight and boil it three hours. _french black puddings._ pick, wash, and boil, till three parts done, two pounds of grits or rice; then drain it dry, put it into a stewpan with a quart of pigs blood preserved from curdling, with plenty of salt stirred into it when taken from the animal; add to them ground pepper, pounded and sifted mace, cloves, nutmeg, and allspice, a small quantity of each, a gill of cream with a bit of crumb of french bread soaked in it, together with chopped savory, thyme, parsley, and pennyroyal, a little of each. mix the ingredients over a slow fire for twenty minutes, and when cold put with them plenty of the flay cut into small dice. have ready the entrails cleaned very nice, fill them with the mixture three parts full, tie the ends, put the puddings into hot water, boil them gently a quarter of an hour; if they are to be eaten directly when done, prick them with a fork and broil them upon a very clean gridiron for ten minutes: if they are not to be eaten immediately when made, put them on clean straw, and when they are wanted for use put them into boiling water, let them simmer ten minutes, then take them out, and prick and broil them as above. n. b. if large puddings they will take longer periods in boiling and broiling. _milk punch._ to a gallon of milk add a little cinnamon, cloves, mace, lemon and orange peel, a pint of brandy, a pint of rum, plenty of orange and lemon juice, and sweeten to the palate. then whisk with it the yolks and whites of eight eggs, put it over a brisk fire, and when it boils let it simmer ten minutes; run it through a jelly bag till quite clear, put it into bottles, and cork it close. n. b. the rum and brandy should be added when the milk is cleared. _plum pottage._ to veal and beef broths (a quart of each) add a pound of stoned pruens and the crumb of two penny french rolls, rubbing all through a tamis cloth; then mix to the pulp half a pound of stoned raisins, a quarter of a pound of currants, a little lemon juice, some pounded cinnamon, mace, and cloves, a pint of red port, a pint of claret, a small quantity of grated lemon peel, and season to the palate with lump sugar. let all simmer together for one hour; then add a little cochineal to make it of a nice colour, and serve it up in a tureen. let it be of the consistence of water gruel. _candied orange or lemon peels._ take either lemon or orange peels well cleaned from the pulp, and lay them in salt and water for two days; then scald and drain them dry, put them into a thin syrup, and boil them till they look clear. after which take them out, and have ready a thick syrup made with fine loaf sugar; put them into it, and simmer till the sugar candies about the pan and peels. then lay them separately on a hair sieve to drain, strew sifted sugar over, and set them to dry in a slow oven; or the peels may be cut into chips, and done in the same manner. _lemonade or orangeade._ to a gallon of spring water add some cinnamon and cloves, plenty of orange and lemon juices, with a bit of each peel; sweeten well with loaf sugar, and whisk with it the whites of six eggs and one yolk. put it over a brisk fire, and when it boils let it simmer ten minutes; then run it through a jelly bag, and let it stand till cold before it is drunk. this mode is recommended, the liquor having been boiled. _poivrade sauce for game, maintenon cutlets, &c._ peel and chop small twelve eschallots; add to them a gill and a half of vinegar, a table spoonful of veal consumé, half an anchovie rubbed through a fine sieve, a little cayenne pepper, and salt. serve it up in a sauceboat cold, if to be eaten with cold game; but if to be eaten with hot, roast, or grills, make it boiling. _lobster sauce for fish._ take the spawn out of live lobsters before they are boiled, bruise it well in a marble mortar, add a little cold water, strain it through a sieve and preserve it till wanted; then boil the lobsters, and when three parts done pick and cut the meat into small pieces, and put it into a stewpan. to the meat of a large lobster add a pound of fresh butter and a pint of water, including a sufficient quantity of the spawn liquor to colour it. put it over a fire, thicken it with flour and water, keep stirring till it boils, and then season to the palate with anchovie liquor, lemon juice, and cayenne pepper. let it simmer five minutes and skim it. n. b. in place of the above the following method may be adopted:--instead of cutting the meat of the lobster into pieces, it may be pounded in a marble mortar, then rubbed through a tamis cloth, and the pulp put with the other ingredients when the sauce is to be made. [see _anchovie essence for fish sauce_.] _oyster sauce for fish._ blanch the oysters, strain them, and preserve their liquor; then wash and beard them, drain, and put them into a stewpan; then add fresh butter and the oyster liquor free from sediment, some flour and water to thicken it, season to the palate with lemon juice, anchovie liquor, a little cayenne pepper, a spoonful of ketchup if approved, and a bit of lemon peel. when it boils skim it, and let it simmer five minutes. n. b. muscles and cockles may be done in like manner. _shrimp sauce for fish._ boil live shrimps in salt and water for three minutes, then pick, wash, and drain them dry; after which add fresh butter, water, anchovie liquor, lemon juice, cayenne pepper, and flour and water to make it of a sufficient thickness. put the ingredients over a fire, and when it boils skim it, and let the shrimps simmer for five minutes. or it may be made thus:--when the shrimps are picked, wash the shells, drain them dry, put them into a stewpan, add a little water, and boil them ten minutes; then strain the liquor to the butter (as above) instead of the water, which will make it of a better flavour. the bodies of lobsters, also, when picked, may be done in like manner for lobster sauce. _dutch sauce for fish._ boil for five minutes, with a gill and a half of vinegar, a little scraped horseradish; then strain it, and when it is cold add to it the yolks of two raw eggs, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a dessert spoonful of flour and water, and a little salt. whisk the ingredients over a fire till the mixture almost boils, and serve it up directly to prevent it from curdling. _anchovie sauce for fish._ put half a pound of fresh butter into a stewpan, add to it three spoonfuls of anchovie liquor, walnut and mushroom ketchups a spoonful of each, the juice of half a lemon, a little cayenne pepper, a tea spoonful of india soy if approved, a sufficient quantity of flour and water to make it of a proper thickness. make the mixture boil, and skim it clean. _observations in respect of fish sauces, &c._ let it be particularly observed that fish sauces should be of the thickness of light batter, so that it might adhere to the fish when dressed, it being a frequent error that they are either too thick or too thin. the thickening should be made with the best white flour sifted, and some water, mixed smooth with a wooden spoon or a whisk, and to be of the consistence of light batter also. a little of it is recommended to be always ready where there is much cooking, as it is frequently wanted both in fish and other sauces. there are, likewise, other articles repeatedly wanted for the use of stovework; and as their possession has been found to obviate much inconvenience and trouble, they are here enumerated: that is to say, liquid of colour preserved in a bottle, strained lemon juice preserved in the same manner, cayenne pepper, ground spices, ground pepper and salt mixed, which should be preserved separately in small jars; and every day, when wanted, fresh breadcrumbs rubbed through a hair sieve; parsley, thymes, eschallots, savoy, marjoram, and lemon peel, chopped very fine, and put on a dish in separate partitions. directions are not given for serving the fish sauces with any particular kind of fish,--such as turbot or salmon with lobster sauce, &c. but the receipts have been written only for the making them; therefore it is recommended that every person make a choice, and not be biassed altogether by custom. _apple sauce for pork, geese, &c._ pare, quarter, and core, baking apples; put them into a stewpan, add a bit of lemon rind, a small stick of cinnamon, a few cloves, and a small quantity of water. cover the pan close, set it over a moderate fire, and when the apples are tender take the peel and spices out; then add a bit of fresh butter, and sugar to the palate. _green sauce for ducklings or green geese._ pick green spinach or sorrel, wash it, and bruise it in a marble mortar, and strain the liquor through a tamis cloth. to a gill of the juice add a little loaf sugar, the yolk of a raw egg, and a spoonful of vinegar; if spinach juice, then put one ounce of fresh butter, and whisk all together over a fire till it begins to boil. n. b. should the sauce be made of spinach juice instead of vinegar, there may be put two table spoonfuls of the pulp of gooseberries rubbed through a hair sieve. _fennel sauce for mackarel._ pick green fennel, mint, and parsley, a little of each; wash, boil them till tender, drain and press them, chop them fine, add melted butter, and serve up the sauce immediately, for should the herbs be mixed with the butter any length of time before it is served up, they will be discoloured. the same observation should be noticed in making parsley and butter sauce. _bread sauce, for turkies, game, &c._ soak a piece of crumb of bread with half a pint of milk or cream, add a peeled middling-sized onion, and put them over a fire; when the milk is absorbed bruise the bread, mix with it two ounces of fresh butter, a little white pepper, and salt; and when it is to be served up take out the onion. _melted butter._ in order to prevent butter from oiling, the flour and water that may be sufficient for the quantity of butter should be made boiling, skimmed clean, and the butter added to dissolve, being careful it is of a proper thickness. in the same manner may be made fish sauces, adding the liquor of the lobsters or oysters, &c. with flour and water, and when boiling add the butter with the other ingredients. _to make melon citron._ take middling-sized melons when half ripe, cut them in quarters, take away the seed, and lay the melons in salt and water for three days. have ready a thin syrup; then drain and wipe dry the quarters, put them into the sugar, and let them simmer a quarter of an hour; the next day boil them up again, and so on for three days; then take them out, and add to the syrup some mountain wine, a little brandy, and more sugar; clarify it, and boil it nearly to a candied height, put the melons into it and boil them five minutes; then put them in glasses, and cover them close with bladder and leather. _rusks, or tops and bottoms._ take two eggs beat up, add them to a pint of good mild yest and a little milk. sift four pounds of best white flour, and set a sponge with the above ingredients; then make boiling half a pound of fresh butter and some milk, a sufficient quantity to make the sponge the stiffness of common dough. let it lay in the kneading trough till well risen; then mould and make it into the form of loaves of the bigness of small teacups; after which batch them flat, bake them in a moderate oven, and when nearly done take them out, cut the top from the bottom, and dry them till of a nice colour on tin plates in the oven. _wafers._ take a table spoonful of orange flower water, a table spoonful of flour, the same of good cream, sifted sugar to the palate, and a dessert spoonful of syrup of cinnamon; beat all the ingredients together for twenty minutes; then make the wafer tongs hot, and pour a little batter just sufficient to cover the irons; bake them over a slow fire, and when taken from the tongs roll them round, and preserve them in a dry place. _cracknels._ to half a pound of best white flour sifted add half a pound of sifted loaf sugar, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, two table spoonfuls of rose water, a little salt, the yolks and whites of three eggs beat up, and mix all well together for twenty minutes. then roll it out, cut it into what shapes you please with a pastry cutter, put them on baking plates rubbed with butter, wash the tops of the paste with whites of eggs well beaten, and bake them in a brisk oven. _to bake pears._ to a pint of water add the juice of three seville oranges, cinnamon, cloves, and mace, a small quantity of each, a bit of lemon peel, and boil them together a quarter of an hour; then strain and add to the liquor a pint of red port, plenty of loaf sugar, and a little cochineal; after which pare, cut into halves, and core, twelve large baking pears, put them into a pan, add the liquor, cover the pan with writing paper, and bake them in a moderate oven. n. b. they may be done in the same manner in a stewpan over a fire. _to clarify sugar._ to four pounds of loaf sugar put two quarts of water into a preserving pan, set it over a fire, and add (when it is warm) the whites of three eggs beat up with half a pint of water; when the syrup boils skim it clean, and let it simmer till perfectly clear. n. b. to clarify sugar for carmel requires but a small quantity of water; and the different degrees of strength, when wanted, must be attended to with practice. they are generally thrown over a mould rubbed with sweet oil; for cakes, with a fork dipped in the sugar, &c. _syrup of cloves, &c._ put a quart of boiling water into a stewpan, add a quarter of a pound of cloves, cover the pan close, set it over a fire, and let the cloves boil gently for half an hour; then drain them dry, and add to a pint of the liquor two pounds of loaf sugar. clear it with the whites of two eggs beat up with a little cold water, and let it simmer till it becomes a strong syrup. preserve it in vials close corked. n. b. in the same manner may be done cinnamon or mace. _syrup of golden pippins._ take the pippins when nearly ripe, pare, core, and cut them into very thin slices, or bruise them a little in a marble mortar. then put them into an earthen vessel, add a small quantity of water, the rind of a lemon, plenty of sifted sugar, and a little lemon juice. let the ingredients remain in the pan close covered for two days, then strain the juice through a piece of lawn, add more sugar if requisite, clear it with white of egg if necessary, and boil it to a syrup. n. b. nonpareils, quinces, pine-apples, or the rind of lemons peeled very thin, may be done in the same manner. _syrup of capillaire._ clarify with three whites of egg four pounds of loaf sugar mixed with three quarts of spring water and a quarter of an ounce of isinglass; when it is cold add to the syrup a sufficient quantity of orange flower water as will make it palatable, and likewise a little syrup of cloves. put it into bottles close corked for use. _flowers in sugar._ clarify sugar to a carmel height, which may be known by dipping in a fork, and if it throws the sugar as fine as threads put in the flowers. have ready teacups with the insides rubbed with sweet oil; put into each cup four silver table spoonfuls of the sugar and flowers, and when cold turn them out of the cups, and serve them up piled on each other. _syrup of roses._ gather one pound of damask rose leaves when in high season, put them into an earthen vessel, add a quart of boiling spring water, cover the pan close, and let it remain six hours; then run the liquor through a piece of lawn, and add to a pint of the juice a pound and a half of loaf sugar; boil it over a brisk fire till of a good syrup, being careful in the skimming, and preserve it in bottles close corked. n. b. the syrup may be cleared with two eggs. _to preserve cucumbers._ take fresh gathered gerkins of a large size, and lay them in salt and water for two days; then drain and wipe them dry, put them into glasses, make boiling-hot a mixture of sugar, vinegar, and water, a small quantity of each; pour it over the cucumbers, cover and set them in a warm place, likewise boil the liquor and pour over them for three successive days. then take a quart of the liquor, add to it plenty of cloves, mace, ginger, and lemon peel. boil these ingredients for half an hour, strain and put to it plenty of sifted sugar, clear it with whites of eggs if requisite, boil to a strong syrup, and put it to the gerkins. when wiped dry and in the glasses, cover them down very close. _to preserve currants._ take large bunches of ripe currants, make a thin syrup with sugar and water, set it over a fire, when it boils put in the fruit, and let them remain in a cold place till the next day; then take them out carefully, lay them on a dish, make the liquor boil again, and put in the currants, taking care not to let them break. take them out a second time, add more sugar to the syrup, with a quart of currant juice; clarify it, boil it to a strong syrup, and when it is cold put the currants into glasses, pour the syrup over, and tie them down close. _to preserve barberries._ bruise a quart of ripe barberries, add a quart of spring water, put them over a fire, when boiling run the liquor through a fine sieve, and put with it three pounds of clarified sugar. then add a sufficient quantity of large bunches of ripe barberries, put them over a fire, when boiling-hot set them away till the next day, take the barberries out of the syrup and put them into glasses; boil the liquor to a good consistence, pour it over, and cover them close. _gooseberry fool._ put a quart of green gooseberries and a gill of water in a stewpan over a fire close covered; when the fruit is tender rub it through a fine hair sieve, add to the pulp sifted loaf sugar, and let it stand till cold. in the mean time put a pint of cream or new milk into a stewpan, with a stick of cinnamon, a small piece of lemon peel, sugar, a few cloves and coriander seeds, and boil the ingredients ten minutes. have ready the yolks of six eggs and a little flour and water well beaten; strain the milk to them, whisk it over a fire to prevent it from curdling, when it nearly boils set the pan in cold water, stir the cream for five minutes, and let it stand till cold. then mix the pulp of the gooseberries and the cream together, add a little grated nutmeg, and sweeten it more if agreeable to the palate. n. b. strawberries, raspberries, apricots, and other ripe fruits, may be rubbed through a sieve and the pulp added to the cream. _sago._ to half an ounce of sago washed clean add a pint of water and a bit of lemon peel; cover the pan close, set it over a fire, let it simmer till the sago is nearly done, and the liquor absorbed. then put to it half a pint of red port, a tea spoonful of pounded cinnamon and cloves or mace, sweeten to the palate with loaf sugar, and let it boil gently for ten minutes. _oatmeal pottage, or gruel._ mix together three table spoonfuls of oatmeal, a very little salt, and a quart of water; put them over a fire, and let it boil gently for half an hour. then skim and strain it, add to it an ounce of fresh butter, some loaf sugar, a little brandy, and grated nutmeg; or instead of these ingredients put pepper, salt, and fresh butter, to the palate; then boil it again five minutes, mix it till very smooth, and let it be of a moderate consistence. _to bottle gooseberries, &c. for tarts._ gather gooseberries on a dry day when about half grown, and pick off the stalks and blossoms; then put the fruit into wide-mouthed bottles and shake them down; cork them very close, bake them in a moderate oven till thoroughly heated through, and set them in a dry cool place. n. b. damsons, currants, cherries, or plums may be done in the same way. [the above mode of preserving fruits is recommended in preference to preserving them with sugar, it frequently happening that fruits done with syrup will fret, and in that event the whole be spoiled.] _to bottle gooseberries another way._ when the gooseberries are picked put them into the bottles and cover them with spring water; then set them in a large pan of cold water, put them over a moderate fire, and when the gooseberries appear to be scalded enough take out the bottles and set them in a cool place, and when cold cork them close. [this mode has been found to answer extremely well. the small champaign gooseberry is recommended likewise for the purpose.] _small cakes._ take half a pound of sifted sugar, half a pound of fresh butter, three quarters of a pound of sifted flour, and rub all together; then wet it with a gill of boiling milk, strew in a few carraway seeds, and let it lay till the next day; after which mould and cut it into eleven dozen pieces, roll them as thin as possible, and bake them in an oven three parts cold. _diet bread cake._ take nine eggs and sifted sugar of their weight; break the whites into one pan and the yolks into another; then whisk the whites till of a solid froth, beat the yolks, and whisk them with the whites; add the sugar with the weight of five eggs of flour, mix all well together, put in a few carraway seeds, and bake it in a hoop. _sponge biscuits._ take the same mixture as for diet bread, only omitting the carraway seeds; then rub the inside of small tin pans with fresh butter, fill them with the mixture, sift sugar over, and bake them in a moderate oven. _common seed cake._ to one pound and a half of flour put half a pound of fresh butter broke into small pieces round it, likewise a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, and half a grated nutmeg; then make a cavity in the center of the flour and set a sponge with a gill of yest and a little warm milk; when well risen add slices of candied orange or lemon peel and an egg beat up. mix all these ingredients well together with a little warm milk, let the dough be of a proper stiffness, mould it into a cake, prove it in a warm place, and then bake it. _cinnamon cakes._ break six eggs into a pan with three table spoonfuls of rose water, whisk them well together, add a pound of sifted sugar, a dessert spoonful of pounded cinnamon, and as much flour as will make it into a good paste; then roll it out, cut it into what shapes you please, bake them on white paper, and when done take them off, and preserve them in a dry place for use. _to make red colouring for pippin paste, &c. for garnishing twelfth cakes._ take an ounce of cochineal beat very fine; add three gills of water, a quarter of an ounce of roche-alum, and two ounces of lump sugar; boil them together for twenty minutes, strain it through a fine sieve, and preserve it for use close covered. _twelfth cakes._ take seven pounds of flour, make a cavity in the center, set a sponge with a gill and a half of yest and a little warm milk; then put round it one pound of fresh butter broke into small lumps, one pound and a quarter of sifted sugar, four pounds and a half of currants washed and picked, half an ounce of sifted cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of pounded cloves, mace, and nutmeg mixed, sliced candied orange or lemon peel and citron. when the sponge is risen mix all the ingredients together with a little warm milk; let the hoops be well papered and buttered, then fill them with the mixture and bake them, and when nearly cold ice them over with sugar prepared for that purpose as per receipt; or they may be plain. _bristol cakes._ take six ounces of sifted sugar, six ounces of fresh butter, four whites and two yolks of eggs, nine ounces of flour, and mix them well together in an earthen pan with the hand; then add three quarters of a pound of picked currants, and drop the mixture with a spoon upon tin plates rubbed with butter, and bake them in a brisk oven. _hyde park corner cakes._ take two pounds of flour, four ounces of common sugar, and half an ounce of carraway seeds pounded; then set a sponge with half a gill of yest and some warm milk, and when it works take some boiling milk, add to it five ounces of fresh butter, mix it up light, add let it lay some time; then roll it out, cut it into what forms you please, and bake them in a moderate oven. _good gingerbread nuts._ take four pounds of flour, half a pound of sifted sugar, one ounce of carraway seeds, half an ounce of ginger pounded and sifted, six ounces of fresh butter, and two ounces of candied orange peel cut into small slices. then take a pound of treacle or honey and a gill of cream, make them warm together, mix all the ingredients into a paste, and let it lay six hours; then roll it out, make it into nuts, and bake them in a moderate oven. _bride cake._ take two pounds of sifted loaf sugar, four pounds of fresh butter, four pounds of best white flour dried and sifted, a quarter of an ounce of mace and cinnamon, likewise the same quantity of nutmeg pounded and sifted, thirty eggs, four pounds of currants washed, picked, and dried before a fire, a pound of jordan almonds blanched and pounded, a pound of citron, a pound of candied orange and a pound of candied lemon peels cut into slices, and half a pint of brandy; then proceed as follows:--first work the butter to a cream with the hand, then beat in the sugar for a quarter of an hour, whisk the whites of eggs to a solid froth, and mix them with the sugar and butter; then beat the yolks for a quarter of an hour and put them to the above, likewise add the flour, mace, and nutmeg; beat all well together till the oven is ready, and then mix in lightly the brandy, currants, almonds, and sweetmeats. line a hoop with paper, rub it with butter, fill it with the mixture, bake it in a brisk oven, and when it is risen cover it with paper to prevent it from burning. it may be served up either iced or plain. _rice cakes._ whisk the yolks of seven eggs for a quarter of an hour, add five ounces of sifted sugar, and mix them well; put to them a quarter of a pound of rice, some flour, a little brandy, the rind of a lemon grated very fine, and a small quantity of pounded mace; then beat six whites of eggs for some time, mix all together for ten minutes, fill a hoop with the mixture, and bake it in a brisk oven. _bath cakes._ take a pound of fresh butter and rub with it a pound of flour, mix them into a light paste with a gill of yest and some warm cream, and set it in a warm place to rise; then mould in with it a few carraway seeds, make it into cakes the size of small french rolls, and bake them on tins buttered. _pancakes._ to half a pound of best white flour sifted add a little salt, grated nutmeg, cream or new milk, and mix them well together; then whisk eight eggs, put them to the above, and beat the mixture for ten minutes till perfectly smooth and light, and let it be of a moderate thickness. when the cakes are to be fried, put a little piece of lard or fresh butter in each frying-pan over a regular fire, and when hot put in the mixture, a sufficient quantity just to cover the bottom of each pan, fry them of a nice colour, and serve them up very hot. serve with them, likewise, some sifted loaf sugar, pounded cinnamon, and seville orange, on separate plates. n. b. before the frying pans are used let them be prepared with a bit of butter put into each and burnt; then wipe them very clean with a dry cloth, as this method prevents the batter from sticking to the pan when frying. _shrewsbury cakes._ beat half a pound of fresh butter to a cream, add to it the same quantity of flour, one egg, six ounces of sifted sugar, and a quarter of an ounce of carraway seeds. mix all together into a paste, roll it out thin, stamp it with a tin cutter, prick the cakes with a fork, lay them on tin plates rubbed with butter, and bake them in a slow oven. _portugal cakes, or heart cakes._ take a pound of flour, a pound of sifted sugar, a pound of fresh butter, and mix them with the hand (or a whisk) till they become like a fine batter. then add two spoonfuls of rose water, half a pound of currants washed and picked, break ten eggs, whisk them, and mix well all together. butter ten moulds, fill them three parts full with the mixture, and bake them in a brisk oven. _macaroons._ take a pound of jordan almonds blanched and pounded fine, with a little rose water to preserve them from oiling, and add a pound of sifted sugar; then whisk the whites of ten eggs to a solid froth and add to the above; beat all together for some time. have ready wafer paper on tin plates, drop the mixture over it separately the size of a shilling or smaller, sift a little sugar over, and bake them. _mirangles._ take the whites of nine eggs, and whisk them to a solid froth; then add the rind of six lemons grated very fine and a spoonful of sifted sugar; after which lay a wet sheet of paper on a tin, and with a spoon drop the mixture in little lumps separately upon it, sift sugar over, and bake them in a moderately heated oven, observing they are of a nice colour. then put raspberry, apricot, or any other kind of jam between two bottoms, add them together, and lay them in a warm place or before the fire to dry. _ratafias._ blanch and pound half a pound of jordan almonds, likewise the same quantity of bitter almonds, and preserve them from oiling with rose water; then add a pound of sifted sugar, beat the whites of four eggs well, and mix lightly with them; after which put the mixture into a preserving pan, set it over a moderate fire, stirring till it is pretty hot, and when it is cold roll it into small rolls, cut them into small cakes the bigness of a shilling, dip the top of your finger into flour and touch lightly each cake, put them on wafer paper, sift sugar over, and bake them in a slow oven. _lemon puffs._ put a pound of sifted loaf sugar in a bowl with the juice of two lemons, and beat them together; then whisk the white of an egg to a very high froth, add it to the mixture, and whisk it for twenty minutes; after which put to it the rind of three lemons grated very fine and three eggs, mixing all well together. sift sugar over wafer paper, drop on it the mixture in small quantities, and bake them in a moderately heated oven. _chantilly basket._ have ready a small quantity of warm clarified sugar boiled to a carmel height, dip ratafia cakes into it, and place them round the inside of a dish. then cut more ratafia cakes into squares, dip them into the sugar, pile them on the others, and so on for two or three stories high. after which line the inside with wafer paper, fill with sponge biscuits, sweetmeats, blanched almonds, and some made cream as for an apple pie, put some trifle froth over that, and garnish the froth with rose leaves, or coloured comfits or carmel of sugar thrown lightly over the top. _green codlins, frosted with sugar._ take twelve codlins, blanch them in water with a little roche-alum in it and some vine leaves; when they are nearly done take off the outside skin, rub the apples over with oiled fresh butter, and sift plenty of sugar over them; then lay them on a clean tin, put them into a slow oven, and when the sugar sparkles like frost take them out. when they are cold serve them up in a trifle glass with some perfumed cream round them made as for an apple pie, and on the top of each codlin stick a small flower for garnish. _pound cake._ take a pound of sifted sugar, a pound of fresh butter, and mix them with the hand for ten minutes; then put to them nine yolks and five whites of eggs beaten, whisk them well, and add a pound of sifted flour, a few carraway seeds, a quarter of a pound of candied orange peel cut into slices, a few currants washed and picked, and mix all together as light as possible. _yest cake._ take one pound of flour, two pounds of currants washed and picked, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a quarter of a pound of lisbon sugar, a quarter of a pound of citron and candied orange peel cut into slices, cinnamon and mace a small quantity of each pounded and sifted. make a cavity in the center of the ingredients, add a gill of sweet wine, a little warm milk, a teacupful of yest, and let it stand till the yest works; then put a little more warm milk, mix all together, fill a hoop with it, and let it remain till risen, and bake it. _rich plum cake._ take one pound of sifted sugar, one pound of fresh butter, and mix them with the hand in a earthen dish for a quarter of an hour. then beat well ten yolks and five whites of eggs, put two thirds of them to the sugar and butter, and mix them together till it begins to be tough; after which add one pound and a half of currants washed and picked, a quarter of a pound of citron, a quarter of a pound of candied orange or lemon peel cut into slices, a quarter of a pound of jordan almonds blanched and bruised very fine. then pound a quarter of a pound of muscadine raisins, put to them a gill of sweet wine and a spoonful of brandy, strain the liquor through a cloth to the mixture, add the rest of the eggs, and mix all together as light as possible. _dried cherries._ gather the largest flemish cherries (or english bearers) when nearly ripe, pick off the stalks and take the stones away; have ready a thin syrup boiling-hot, put the cherries into it, and let them remain till the next day; then strain and boil the liquor again, and add to the cherries; the same again on the third day; on the fourth day strain the syrup, add more sugar, and clarify it; boil it to a strong consistence, add the cherries, put them into jars, and when they are cold cover them close. when wanted for use take them out, lay them on large drying sieves, and put them in a very slack oven. n. b. in the same manner may be done apricots, pears, plums, &c. _pippins with rice._ boil two ounces of whole rice with half a pint of milk, and when it is nearly absorbed put the rice into a marble mortar, add a table spoonful of brandy, a little grated lemon peel, a small quantity of pounded cinnamon and cloves, two ounces of sifted sugar, two eggs, and pound all together. then pare twelve large ripe golden pippins, core them with an apple scoop, mould over them some of the mixture with the hand, put writing paper on a tin-plate, rub it over with sweet oil or butter, put the apples on it, and bake them gently till done; then serve them up in a deep dish with melted butter over and a little of the syrup of quinces mixed with it. _to make english bread._ take a peck of the best white flour, sift it into a trough, make a cavity in the center, and strain through a hair sieve (mixed together) a pint of good yest and a pint of lukewarm water; mix them lightly with some of the flour till of a light paste, set it in a warm place covered over to prove for an hour; then mix the whole with two quarts of lukewarm water and a little salt, knead it, let it be of a good stiffness, prove it an hour more and knead it again; prove it another hour, mould it into loaves or batch two pieces together, and bake them in a brisk oven. n. b. a middling-size loaf will require an hour and a half in baking. _french bread._ sift a peck of fine flour into a trough, make a cavity in the center with the hand, strain into it (mixed together) a pint of lukewarm milk and a pint of good yest; mix them with some of the flour till of a light sponge, set it in a warm place covered over to prove for an hour; then add to it two quarts of lukewarm milk, half a pound of fresh butter, an ounce of sifted loaf sugar, and a little salt; knead it till of a nice stiffness, let it prove an hour more, knead it again, and let it prove another hour; then mould it into bricks, lay them on tins, put them into a very slack oven or warm place to prove for half an hour, and bake them in a brisk oven. _pulpton of apples._ pare, cut into quarters, and core eight good-sized baking apples; put them into a stewpan, add a bit of lemon peel and a table spoonful of rose water; cover the pan close, put it over a slow fire, and when the apples are tender rub them through a hair sieve, put to the pulp, sugar to the palate, sifted cinnamon and cloves a small quantity of each, four eggs well beaten, a quarter of a pound of the crumb of french bread soaked in a gill of cream, and mix all the ingredients together. rub the inside of a mould with fresh butter, fill it with the mixture, bake it in a moderately heated oven, when done turn it out on a dish, and serve it up with sifted sugar over. _a sweet omlet of eggs._ mix well together ten eggs, half a gill of cream, a quarter of a pound of oiled fresh butter and a little syrup of nutmeg; sweeten it with loaf sugar, put the mixture into a prepared frying pan as for a savory omlet, fry it in the same manner, and serve it up with a little sifted sugar over it. _to keep cucumbers for winter use for sauces._ take fresh gathered middling-sized cucumbers, put them into a jar, have ready half vinegar, half water, and some salt, a sufficient quantity to cover them; make it boiling-hot, pour it over them, add sweet oil, cover the jars down close with bladder and leather, and set them in a dry place. _to preserve mushrooms for sauces._ peel button forced mushrooms, wash them and boil till half done in a sufficient quantity of salt and water to cover them; then drain them and dry in the sun, boil the liquor with different spices, put the mushrooms into a jar, pour the boiling pickle over them, add sweet oil, and tie them over with bladder, &c. _pullet roasted with batter._ bone and force the pullet with good stuffing or forcemeat, paper it and put it to roast; when half done take off the paper, and baste the fowl with a little light batter; let it dry, baste it again, so repeating till it is done and nicely crusted over; then serve it up with benshamelle or poivrade sauce beneath. _dutch beef._ rub the prime ribs of fat beef with common salt, and let them lay in a pan for three days; then rub them with the different articles as for hams or tongues, and add plenty of bruised juniper berries. turn the meat every two days for three weeks, and smoke it. _mushroom ketchup._ take a parcel of mushrooms either natural or forced, the latter will prove the best, and cut off part of the stalk towards the root. wash the mushrooms clean, drain them, then bruise them a little in a marble mortar, put them into an earthen vessel with a middling quantity of salt, let them remain for four days, and then strain them through a tamis cloth. when the sediment is settled pour the liquor into a stewpan, and to every pint of juice add half a gill of red port, a little whole allspice, cloves, mace, and pepper. boil them together twenty minutes, then skim and strain the ketchup, and when cold put it into small bottles and cork them close. _suet pudding._ chop fine half a pound of beef suet, add to it the same quantity of flour, two eggs beaten, a little salt, a small quantity of pounded and sifted ginger, and mix them together with milk. let the mixture be of a moderate thickness. it may be either boiled or baked. _savoy cake._ beat well together the yolks of eight eggs and a pound of sifted sugar, and whisk the whites till of a solid froth; then take six ounces of flour and a little sifted cinnamon, and mix all the ingredients lightly together; after which rub a mould with fresh butter, fill it three parts full with the mixture, and bake it in a slack heated oven. _nutmeg syrup._ pound a quarter of a pound of nutmegs, put them into a stewpan, add a pint and a half of hot water, and boil them for half an hour; then strain, and put to a pint of liquor two pounds of sifted sugar and one egg beat up with a little cold water; set it over a fire, and when it boils skim it till perfectly clear and reduced to a good syrup, and when it is cold mix with it half a pint of brandy. having this syrup always at hand will answer a better purpose for puddings, &c. than grated nutmeg and brandy, as the mixtures can be better palated, and likewise save trouble and expense. _sweetbreads with veal and ham._ blanch heart sweetbreads eight minutes, and wash and wipe them dry; then make an incision in the under part, take out a piece and pound it with a small quantity of light forcemeat; after which fill the cavity in the sweetbread, rub the top with white of egg, lay over it a thin slice of lean ham, a slice of veal, and a bard of bacon; put paper and a thin sheet of common paste over the whole, bake them gently for an hour, and when they are to be served up take off the paste and paper, glaize lightly the bacon, and put under the sweetbreads a good benshamelle. _essence of ham for sauces._ take four pounds of slices of lean ham, and be careful it is of a good flavour; put it into a stewpan with a little water, six peeled eschallots, and two bay leaves; cover the pan close, set it over a fire, and simmer the ham till three parts done; then add two quarts of water and boil it till tender, strain it through a fine sieve, skim it perfectly free from fat, clear it with whites of eggs, strain it through a tamis, boil it till it is reduced to a pint, and when cold put it into small bottles and cork them close. _ox heart roasted._ let the heart be very fresh, wash and wipe it, fill it with a stuffing as for a fillet of veal, tie over the top a piece of veal caul, roast it gently one hour and an half, and five minutes before it is done roast it quick, froth it with flour and butter, and put it on a very hot dish. serve it up with a sauce under it made with cullis, fresh butter, a table spoonful of ketchup, and half a gill of red port boiled together. _slices of cod fried with oysters._ egg, breadcrumb, and fry in boiling lard, some slices of crimped cod; when done, drain them dry, serve them up with oyster sauce in the center, made in the same manner as for beef steaks. _small crusts to be eaten with cheese or wine after dinner._ take the crumb of a new-baked loaf, pull it into small pieces, put them on a baking plate, and set them in a moderately heated oven till they are of a nice brown colour. _devilled almonds._ blanch half a pound of jordan almonds and wipe them dry; then put into a frying-pan two ounces of fresh butter, make it hot, add the almonds, fry them gently till of a good brown colour, drain them on a hair sieve, strew over cayenne pepper and some salt, and serve them up hot. _boiled tripe and onions._ cut a prepared double of tripe into slips, then peel and boil some spanish or other onions in milk and water with a little salt, and when they are nearly done add the tripe and boil it gently ten minutes. serve it to table with the onions and a little of the liquor in a tureen. serve up, likewise, in a sauceboat, some melted butter with a little mustard mixed with it, and (if approved) there may be added a table spoonful of vinegar. _boiled sweetbreads._ blanch two heart sweetbreads, wash and trim off the pipe, then boil them in milk and water with a little salt for half an hour; drain them dry, and when they are to be served to table put over them some boiling benshamelle with a little parsley chopped very fine in it. _broiled sweetbreads._ blanch the sweetbreads till half done, wash and trim off the pipe, then cut them into large slices, season with a small quantity of cayenne pepper and salt, broil them gently over a clear fire till of a nice brown colour, and serve them up very hot, with some cold fresh butter on a plate. _conclusion, with remarks._ all sweets, pastry, shellfish or savoury dishes, either plain or modelled, with fat or butter, or ornaments of any kind, that are served up in second courses or ball suppers, &c. should be very light, airy, and neat; the pastry, likewise, of the best puff paste, well-baked, and rather inclining to a pale colour, which has a very good effect. let it also be observed, that mention should have been made in the receipt for mock turtle, of an addition to the passing of flour and butter, to each gallon of liquor half a pint of madeira wine; and (if approved) the mock turtle may be made with pieces of cow-heel or pig's head instead of calf's scalp. index. a. a la reine soup, 5 almond cake, 215 -----custards, 216 -----nuts, 200 -----paste, 198 -----pudding, 219 almonds devilled, 312 anchovie essence for fish sauces, 234 -------sauce, 265 apples, to stew, for tarts, 203 apple dumplings, 223 ----fritters, 190 ----pudding baked, 223 ------------boiled, 222 ----sauce for pork, &c., 267 apricot jam, 211 apricots, preserved, for tarts or desserts, ib. artichoke bottoms fried, 171 ----------------stewed, 144 -----------------, to dry, 243 -----------------, to pickle, 248 ashée sauce, 45 asparagus peas, 155 --------peas another way, 156 --------tops for sauces, 157 aspect of fish, 181 -----of meat or fowl, 182 atlets curried, 168 b. bacquillio with herbs, 27 bagnets a l'eau, 189 baked beef, 47 ----pears, 273 barberries, to pickle, 251 ----------to preserve. 279 bath cakes, 291 batter, to prepare, for frying, 170 ------pudding, 221 beef collops, 42 ---palates stewed, 43 ---red, for slices, 179 ---steaks broiled, 128 ---steak pudding, 129 ---stock, 1 ---tails, 41 beet root, to pickle, 247 benshamelle, or white cullis, 4 black puddings, french, 257 blancmange, white, 185 boiled sweetbreads, 313 breadcrumbs to prepare for frying, 88 bread pudding, 220 ----sauce for turkies, &c., 269 breast of lamb with benshamelle, 72 -------------en matelote, ib. -------------with peas, 73 breast of veal en gallentine, 61 -------------ragout, ib. -------------with oysters, 70 bride cakes, 289 brisket of beef with spanish onions, 45 -------------------ashée or haricot, 46 bristol cakes, 287 broiled mackarel, 25 ------salmon, 24 ------sweetbreads, 313 burnt cream, 197 butter clarified for potting, 235 -----melted, 269 buns, 207 c. cabbage, red, to pickle, 250 -------to stew, 54 calf's feet jelly, 187 -----head hashed, 60 -----liver roasted, 233 callipash, 18 callipee, 19 canopies, 183 cardoons stewed, 145 carrot pudding, 227 cauliflower a la cream, 144 ----------sauce, 143 ----------with parmezan cheese, ib. celery fried, 170 -----sauce (brown), 66 -----sauce (white), ib. -----soup, 8 champignons, &c. to dry, 238 chantilly basket, 296 cheese cakes, 199 -----stewed, 169 cherries in brandy for desserts, 206 chicken puffs, 111 ------tourte, 103 ------with lemon sauce, 116 ------or turkies with celery sauce, 118 ------with oyster sauce, ib. ------with peas, 119 -------------another way, 120 cinnamon cakes, 285 citron of melons, 270 clarified butter for potting, 235 --------sugar, 273 cleared brown stock, 6 cloves, syrup of, 274 codlins, green, frosted with sugar, 297 coffee cream, 197 collared eels, 230 -------pig, 178 collops, veal (brown), 67 ------(white), 68 colouring for paste for garnishing, 286 compote of oranges, 195 ------of pigeons, 57 consumé, 2 cracknels, 272 crayfish soup, 5 cream for fruit pies, 193 cressey soup, 8 crisp tart paste, 213 cucumbers forced, 154 ---------, to keep for winter use, 304 ---------, to pickle, 244 ---------, large, to pickle, 249 ---------, to preserve, 277 cullis, or thick gravy, 2 currant jelly, 212 currants, to pickle, 251 --------, to preserve, 278 currie or pepper water, 254 -----of chickens, 81 -----of lobsters, 83 -----of mutton, ib. -----of pig's head, 84 -----of veal, 83 curried atlets, 168 cutlets, lamb, with cucumbers, 74 -------------with tendrons, 75 -------------another way, 77 cutlets, mutton, with haricot, 49 ---------------, with potatoes, 51 ---------------, a la maintenon, 52 ---------------, a la irish stew, 53 cutlets, pork, with red or white cabbage, ib. -------------, with robert sauce, 54 -------------, another way, 55 cutlets, veal, larded, 63 -------------, natural, 67 d. damson pudding, 224 -------------another way, ib. diet bread, 284 directions for meat and poultry plain boiled, 121 ---------for roasting, 84 ---------for vegetables, 157 dried cherries, 300 duck with benshamelle, 125 ---with cucumbers, 124 ---aux naves, 123 dutch beef, 306 ----blancmange, 186 ----sauce, 264 e. eel pie, 109 egg paste for balls, soups, &c., 39 eggs and bacon, 213 ---buttered, 163 ---fried with ham, &c., 164 ---poached with sorrel, &c., 163 ---a la tripe, 165 endive stewed, 153 english bread, 301 entrée of eels, 28 -----of mackarel, 31 -----of salmon, 29 -----of smelts, 30 -----of soles, 28 -----of whitings, 29 essence of ham for sauces, 310 f. fennel sauce for mackarel, 268 fillet of beef larded, 42 -----of mutton with cucumbers, 50 -----of pork roasted, 56 -----of veal prepared for roasting, 93 fish for frying, 22 ---meagre pie, 101 ---meagré soup, 14 ---plain boiled, 21 ---prepared for broiling, 23 ------------for frying, ib. ------------for stewing, 25 flat chicken pie, or tourte, 103 flowers in sugar, 276 forcemeat balls for soups and ragouts, 38 fowl a la memorancy, 115 --------st. menehout, 114 fowl, &c. with oyster sauce, 118 french beans creamed, 145 -----black puddings, 257 -----bread, 302 -----salad, 185 fricando veal glaized, 69 fricassee of chicken or rabbits (white or brown), 117 --------of tripe, 167 fried parsley, 111 ----puffs with sweetmeats, 204 fruit pudding baked, 225 g. giblet soup, 13 giblets stewed plain, 138 -----stewed with peas, 139 gingerbread nuts, 288 glaize for hams, larding, &c., 20 golden pippins a la cream, 191 -------------another way, 192 -------------stewed, 193 -------------syrup of, 275 gooseberries, to bottle, 282 ------------another way, 283 gooseberry fool, 280 gravy for meats and poultry, 95 green codlins frosted, 297 ----gage jam, 210 ----geese for roasting, 91 ----peas soup, 10 ----sauce for poultry, 268 ----truffles for a dish, 139 grills generally eaten after dinner, 255 grown geese and ducks prepared for roasting, 92 guinea fowls for roasting, ib. h. haggess, to make, 256 ham braised and glaized, 140 hard eggs fried, 172 hare glaized, 123 ---jugged, 122 hares to prepare for roasting, 89 ----another way, ib. haricot mutton cutlets, 49 ------sauce, 41 hashed beef, in n. b., 126 -----calves head, 60 -----fowl, 127 -----hare, wild fowl, &c., 128 -----mutton, 125 -----venison, 126 haunch of venison, &c. to prepare for roasting, 86 herbs dried, 233 hodge podge, or an english olio, 36 hyde park corner cakes, 288 i. j. ice cream, 228 iceing for cakes, 206 india pickle, 241 jerusalem artichokes stewed, 141 -------------------another way, 142 l. lamb, hind quarter of, marinated, 79 -----------------with spinach, 80 ----, leg of, with oysters, ib. lamb or pork chops plain broiled, 130 lamb's fry with parsley, 173 ---------another way, ib. -----head minced, 71 -----tails and ears, 167 larks, to prepare for roasting, 88 leason for fricassees and soups, 6 lemonade or orangeade, 261 lemon peel candied, 260 ----puffs, 295 ----sauce, to make, 116 light forcemeat for pies, &c., 38 liquid of colour for sauces, 3 lobsters buttered, 176 lobster sauce for fish, 262 loin of veal a la cream, 64 m. macaroni stewed for a dish, 169 macaroons, 293 mackarel, broiled, common way, 25 -------the german way, 31 marbree jelly, 188 marinate, to make, 49 marrow bones, 48 -----pudding, 220 mashed potatoes, 142 mashed turnips, 148 matelote of rabbits, 137 meat cake, 177 melted butter, to prepare, 269 milk punch, 258 mince meat, 194 minced veal for a dish, 131 ----------another way, 132 mirangles, 294 mock turtle, 14 morells, &c. to dry, 238 muffin pudding with dried cherries, 226 mushroom ketchup, 306 -------powder, 238 mushrooms broiled, 147 ---------, to dry, 238 ---------, to pickle, 246 ---------, to preserve, for sauces, 305 ---------, stewed (brown), 147 -----------------,(white), 148 mutton broth, 15 -----or lamb, &c. broiled, 130 -----pie, 109 -----rumps marinated, 48 n. neck of lamb glaized, 75 ---of veal en erison, 62 ----------larded, 63 nutmeg syrup, 308 o. oatmeal pottage or gruel, 281 observations on fish and sauces, 265 -----------on meat and poultry, 94 -----------on stores, 228 old or split peas soup, 11 --peas soup another way, 12 olios, or a spanish dish, 32 -----how to make, 34 omlets of eggs for garnishing, 39 -------------several ways, 165 onion sauce, 75 ----soup, 10 onions fried with parmezan cheese, 152 ------, to pickle, 246 orangeade, 261 orange or lemon peel candied, 260 -----marmalade, 208 -----pudding, 217 orgeat, 207 ox cheek stewed, 40 -heart to prepare for roasting, 310 oyster atlets, 159 -----loaves, 161 -----sauce for beef steaks, 130 -----------for fish, 263 -----------(white), 118 oysters prepared for frying, 121 ------scolloped, 160 p. pancakes, 291 parsley, to fry, 111 partridge soup, 229 partridges or pheasants au choux, 132 ----------------------for roasting, 91 ----------------------with truffles, 133 passing of flour and butter, 4 paste for stringing tartlets, &c., 202 pastry cream, 198 patties of lobster or oysters, 99 ------with forcemeat, ib. peas pudding to be eaten with pork, 253 ---stewed for a dish, 154 ----, to stew, for sauce, 73 peloe of rice, 95 -----, another way, 96 pepper or currie water, 254 peths fried, 171 petit patties of chicken and ham, 98 pickled oysters, 158 ------tongues, 240 pickle tongue forced, 153 pickling, rules to be observed in, 245 pig, to prepare for roasting, 92 pigs feet and ears, 56 ------------------, to prepare, 57 pigeon pie, 104 pigeons a la craupidine, 58 ------glaized, 59 ------with sorrel, ib. ------to prepare for roasting, 90 pike or sturgeon baked or roasted, 26 pippins with rice, 301 plovers eggs different ways, 176 plum pottage, 259 ---pudding, very rich, 221 poivrade sauce for game, 261 pork pie, 108 portugal or heart cakes, 293 potatoe pudding, 227 potatoes creamed, 149 -------fried, 151 potted beef, 239 -----cheese, 236 -----larks, &c., 237 -----lobster, 234 -----veal, 236 poultry, directions for plain boiling, 121 pound cake, 297 prepared batter for several articles, 170 preserved barberries, 279 --------cucumbers, 277 --------currants, 278 puff paste, 214 puffs with forcemeat of vegetables, 173 pulled chicken or turkey, 114 pullet a la memorancy, 115 -----roasted with batter, 305 -----with celery sauce, 118 -----with oyster sauce (white), ib. pulpton of apples, 303 ------of rabbits, &c., 100 pyramid of paste, 204 q. quails, or ruffs and rees, to prepare for roasting, 90 quarter of lamb marinated, 79 ----------with spinach, 80 quince jam, 210 r. rabbits en gallentine, 140 ------with onions, 136 ------to roast, 89 ragout sweetbreads (brown), 161 ---------------(white), 162 raised beef steak pie, 106 raised chicken pie, 103 -----ham pie with directions to make a raised crust, 102 raised pie with macaroni, 106 -----turkey pie with a tongue, 105 rammequins, 174 raspberry jam, 209 ratafias, 295 real turtle, 16 red beef for slicing, 179 --cabbage, to pickle, 250 remarks in conclusion, 314 rhubarb tart, 216 riband blancmange, 187 ribs of beef to prepare for roasting, 93 rice cakes, 290 ---pudding, 218 ---soup, 7 ----, plain, to be eaten with currie, 82 rich plum cake, 299 rissoles, 110 roasting, directions for, 84 robert sauce, to make, 55 rump of beef a-la mode, 46 -----------daubed or plain, 43 rules to be observed in pickling, 245 rusks, or tops and bottoms, 271 s. sago, 281 salad of asparagus, 155 ----of lobster, 184 salmagundy, 183 salmé of woodcocks, 256 salmon broiled, 24 santé soup, or with bouillie, 9 savory jelly, 180 savoy cake, 308 ----sauce, 44 sausage meat, 232 sea pie, 110 seed cakes common way, 285 shoulder of lamb en epigram, 78 ---------------glaized, 77 ---------------grilled, 78 shrewsbury cakes, 292 shrimp sauce, 264 slices of cod fried with oyster sauce, 311 small cakes, 283 small crusts to be eaten after dinner with cheese or wine, 311 sorrel sauce, 69 soup a la reine, 5 ---for a family, 85 sour crout, 252 spanish onion sauce, 44 sponge biscuits, 284 stewed apples for tarts, 203 -----cucumbers, 50 -----peas for a dish, 154 ----------for sauces, 73 stock, cleared, (brown), 6 stores, observation on, 228 stuffing for veal, turkey, &c., 94 sturgeon roasted, 26 suet pudding, 307 sugar, to clarify, 273 sweetbreads boiled, 313 ----------broiled, ib. ----------en erison, 138 ----------fried, 171 ----------glaized, 137 ----------roasted, 93 ----------with veal and ham, 309 sweet omlet of eggs, 304 syllabub, 200 syrup of capillaire, 276 ----of cloves, 274 ----of golden pippins, 275 ----of roses, 277 t. tansey pudding, 219 tarragon vinegar, 239 tarts or tartlets, 202 tea cream, 196 tendrons of veal (brown or white), 65 timbol of rice, 97 tongues, &c. to pickle, 240 trifle, 201 tripe and onions boiled, 312 ---------------fried, 172 truffles, green, for a dish, 139 truffle sauce, 134 turkey with chesnuts, 135 -----with celery or oyster sauce, 118 -----with ragout, 136 -----with truffles, 134 turkies, to prepare for roasting, 89 turnip sauce, 76 -----soup, 8 twelfth cakes, 286 v. veal cutlets common way, 131 ---olives, &c., 70 ---pie, 107 ---stock for soups, 1 vegetable pie, 150 vegetables, a neat dish of, ib. ----------, directions for, 157 ---------in moulds, 146 venison, haunch of, to prepare for roasting, 86 vermicelli soup (white), 6 virgin cream, 197 w. wafers, 271 walnut ketchup for fish sauces, 240 watercresses stewed, 149 water souchée, 26 white oyster sauce, 118 white puddings, 231 wild boar, to dress, 175 ---fowls to prepare for roasting, 91 wings and legs of fowls glaized, 113 ----------------------with colours, 112 woodcocks and snipes, to prepare for roasting, 87 y. yest cake, 298 the end. t. bensley, printer, bolt court, fleet street, london. * * * * * transcriber's notes: text uses é for fish meagré soup and e for fishmeagre pie. this was retained. all spelling on the monthly menus was retained as printed, for example, "begetables." to confirm this, please see the images included in the html version. in the remaining text, spelling was only changed where a clear majority of usage could be found in the same text. for example, "benshamelle" for "béchamel" was retained while "posssible" for "possible" was corrected. page x, "fishmeagré" changed to "fish meagré" to match usage in text (fish meagré soup) page xix, "preser ed" changed to "preserved" (preserved apricots for) page 59, "glaise" changed to "glaize" to match rest of usage (dry, glaize the top) page 69, "into it" changed to "it into" (it into a stewpan) page 142, "posssible" changed to "possible" (white as possible) page 185, "sallad" changed to "salad" (eat with this salad) page 281, "tea-poonful" changed to "tea spoonful" (red port, tea spoonful) page 315, "dumplins" changed to "dumplings" (apple dumplins, 223) page 317, "blancmonge" changed to "blancmange" (blancmange, white, 185) page 318, "parmesan" changed to "parmezan" to match usage in text (----------with parmezan cheese, ib.) page 320, "blancmonge" changed to "blancmange" (----blancmange, 186) page 322, "megre" changed to "meagré" to match usage in text (---meagré soup) page 324, index, reference for "india pickle" moved to land above "jerusalem". page 331, "blancmonge" changed to "blancmange" (riband blancmange, 187) corrections and additions by greg lindahl. the forme of cury, a roll of ancient english cookery. compiled, about a.d. 1390, by the master-cooks of king richard ii, presented afterwards to queen elizabeth, by edward lord stafford, and now in the possession of gustavus brander, esq. illustrated with notes, and a copious index, or glossary. a manuscript of the editor, of the same age and subject, with other congruous matters, are subjoined. "--ingeniosa gula est." martial. to gustavus brander, esq. f.r.s. f.s.a. and cur. brit. mus. sir, i return your very curious roll of cookery, and i trust with some interest, not full i confess nor legal, but the utmost which your debtor, from the scantiness of his ability, can at present afford. indeed, considering your respectable situation in life, and that diffusive sphere of knowledge and science in which you are acting, it must be exceedingly difficult for any one, how well furnished soever, completely to answer your just, or even most moderate demands. i intreat the favour of you, however, to accept for once this short payment in lieu of better, or at least as a public testimony of that profound regard wherewith i am, sir, your affectionate friend, and most obliged servant, st. george's day, 1780. s. pegge. preface to the curious antiquarian reader. without beginning _ab ovo_ on a subject so light (a matter of importance, however, to many a modern catius or amasinius), by investigating the origin of the art of cookery, and the nature of it as practised by the antediluvians [1]; without dilating on the several particulars concerning it afterwards amongst the patriarchs, as found in the bible [2], i shall turn myself immediately, and without further preamble, to a few cursory observations respecting the greeks, romans, britons, and those other nations, saxons, danes, and normans, with whom the people of this nation are more closely connected. the greeks probably derived something of their skill from the east, (from the lydians principally, whose cooks are much celebrated, [3]) and something from egypt. a few hints concerning cookery may be collected from homer, aristophanes, aristotle, &c. but afterwards they possessed many authors on the subject, as may be seen in athenæus [4]. and as diætetics were esteemed a branch of the study of medicine, as also they were afterwards [5], so many of those authors were physicians; and _the cook_ was undoubtedly a character of high reputation at athens [6]. as to the romans; they would of course borrow much of their culinary arts from the greeks, though the cook with them, we are told, was one of the lowest of their slaves [7]. in the latter times, however, they had many authors on the subject as well as the greeks, and the practitioners were men of some science [8], but, unhappily for us, their compositions are all lost except that which goes under the name of apicius; concerning which work and its author, the prevailing opinion now seems to be, that it was written about the time of _heliogabalus_ [9], by one _cælius_, (whether _aurelianus_ is not so certain) and that _apicius_ is only the title of it [10]. however, the compilation, though not in any great repute, has been several times published by learned men. the aborigines of britain, to come nearer home, could have no great expertness in cookery, as they had no oil, and we hear nothing of their butter, they used only sheep and oxen, eating neither hares, though so greatly esteemed at rome, nor hens, nor geese, from a notion of superstition. nor did they eat fish. there was little corn in the interior part of the island, but they lived on milk and flesh [11]; though it is expressly asserted by strabo that they had no cheese [12]. the later britons, however, well knew how to make the best use of the cow, since, as appears from the laws of _hoel dda_, a.d. 943, this animal was a creature so essential, so common and useful in wales, as to be the standard in rating fines, &c. [13]. hengist, leader of the saxons, made grand entertainments for king vortigern [14], but no particulars have come down to us; and certainly little exquisite can be expected from a people then so extremely barbarous as not to be able either to read or write. 'barbari homines a septentrione, (they are the words of dr. lister) caseo et ferina subcruda victitantes, omnia condimenta adjectiva respuerunt' [15]. some have fancied, that as the danes imported the custom of hard and deep drinking, so they likewise introduced the practice of gormandizing, and that this word itself is derived from _gormund_, the name of that danish king whom ælfred the great persuaded to be christened, and called æthelstane [16], now 'tis certain that hardicnut stands on record as an egregious glutton [17], but he is not particularly famous for being a _curious viander_; 'tis true again, that the danes in general indulged excessively in feasts and entertainments [18], but we have no reason to imagine any elegance of cookery to have flourished amongst them. and though guthrum, the danish prince, is in some authors named _gormundus_ [19]; yet this is not the right etymology of our english word _gormandize_, since it is rather the french _gourmand_, or the british _gormod_ [20]. so that we have little to say as to the danes. i shall take the later english and the normans together, on account of the intermixture of the two nations after the conquest, since, as lord lyttelton observes, the english accommodated them elves to the norman manners, except in point of temperance in eating and drinking, and communicated to them their own habits of drunkenness and immoderate feasting [21]. erasmus also remarks, that the english in his time were attached to _plentiful and splendid tables_; and the same is observed by harrison [22]. as to the normans, both william i. and rufus made grand entertainments [23]; the former was remarkable for an immense paunch, and withal was so exact, so nice and curious in his repasts [24], that when his prime favourite william fitzosberne, who as steward of the household had the charge of the cury, served him with the flesh of a crane scarcely half-roasted, he was so highly exasperated, that he lifted up his fist, and would have strucken him, had not eudo, appointed _dapiser_ immediately after, warded off the blow [25]. _dapiser_, by which is usually understood _steward of the king's household_ [26], was a high officer amongst the normans; and _larderarius_ was another, clergymen then often occupying this post, and sometimes made bishops from it [27]. he was under the _dapiser_, as was likewise the _cocus dominicæ coquinæ_, concerning whom, his assistants and allowances, the _liber niger_ may be consulted [28]. it appears further from _fleta_, that the chief cooks were often providers, as well as dressers, of victuals [29]. but _magister coquinæ_, who was an esquire by office, seems to have had the care of pourveyance, a.d. 1340 [30], and to have nearly corresponded with our _clerk of the kitchen_, having authority over the cooks [31]. however, the _magnus coquus_, _coquorum præpositus_, _coquus regius_, and _grans queux_, were officers of considerable dignity in the palaces of princes; and the officers under them, according to du fresne, were in the french court a.d. 1385, much about the time that our roll was made, 'queus, aideurs, asteurs, paiges, souffleurs, enfans, saussiers de commun, saussiers devers le roy, sommiers, poulliers, huissiers' [32]. in regard to religious houses, the cooks of the greater foundations were officers of consequence, though under the cellarer [33], and if he were not a monk, he nevertheless was to enjoy the portion of a monk [34]. but it appears from somner, that at christ church, canterbury, the _lardyrer_ was the first or chief cook [35]; and this officer, as we have seen, was often an ecclesiastic. however, the great houses had cooks of different ranks [36]; and manors and churches [37] were often given _ad cibum_ and _ad victum monachorum_ [38]. a fishing at lambeth was allotted to that purpose [39]. but whether the cooks were monks or not, the _magistri coquinæ_, kitcheners, of the monasteries, we may depend upon it, were always monks; and i think they were mostly ecclesiastics elsewhere: thus when cardinal otto, the pope's legate, was at oxford, a. 1238, and that memorable fray happened between his retinue and the students, the _magister coquorum_ was the legate's brother, and was there killed [40]. the reason given in the author, why a person so nearly allied to the great man was assigned to the office, is this, 'ne procuraretur aliquid venenorum, quod nimis [i.e. valde] timebat legatus;' and it is certain that poisoning was but too much in vogue in these times, both amongst the italians and the good people of this island [41]; so that this was a post of signal trust and confidence. and indeed afterwards, a person was employed to _taste_, or _take the assaie_, as it was called [42], both of the messes and the water in the ewer [43], at great tables; but it may be doubted whether a particular person was appointed to this service, or it was a branch of the _sewer's_ and cup-bearer's duty, for i observe, the _sewer_ is sometimes called _prægustator_ [44], and the cup-bearer tastes the water elsewhere [45]. the religious houses, and their presidents, the abbots and priors, had their days of _gala_, as likewise their halls for strangers, whom, when persons of rank, they often entertained with splendour and magnificence. and as for the secular clergy, archbishops and bishops, their feasts, of which we have some upon record [46], were so superb, that they might vie either with the regal entertainments, or the pontifical suppers of ancient rome (which became even proverbial [47]), and certainly could not be dressed and set out without a large number of cooks [48]. in short, the satirists of the times before, and about the time of, the reformation, are continually inveighing against the high-living of the bishops and clergy; indeed luxury was then carried to such an extravagant pitch amongst them, that archbishop cranmer, a. 1541, found it necessary to bring the secular clergy under some reasonable regulation in regard to the furnishing of their tables, not excepting even his own [49]. after this historical deduction of the _ars coquinaria_, which i have endeavoured to make as short as possible, it is time to say something of the roll which is here given to the public, and the methods which the editor has pursued in bringing it to light. this vellum roll contains 196 _formulæ_, or recipes, and belonged once to the earl of oxford [50]. the late james west esquire bought it at the earl's sale, when a part of his mss were disposed of; and on the death of the gentleman last mentioned it came into the hands of my highly-esteemed friend, the present liberal and most communicative possessor. it is presumed to be one of the most ancient remains of the kind now in being, rising as high as the reign of king richard ii. [51]. however, it is far the largest and most copious collection of any we have; i speak as to those times. to establish its authenticity, and even to stamp an additional value upon it, it is the identical roll which was presented to queen elizabeth, in the 28th year of her reign, by lord stafford's heir, as appears from the following address, or inscription, at the end of it, in his own hand writing: 'antiquum hoc monumentum oblatum et missum est majestati vestræ vicesimo septimo die mensis julij, anno regni vestri fælicissimi vicesimo viij ab humilimo vestro subdito, vestræq majestati fidelissimo e. stafford, hæres domus subversæ buckinghamiens.' [52] the general observations i have to make upon it are these: many articles, it seems, were in vogue in the fourteenth century, which are now in a manner obsolete, as cranes, curlews, herons, seals [53], porpoises, &c. and, on the contrary, we feed on sundry fowls which are not named either in the roll, or the editor's ms. [54] as quails, rails, teal, woodcocks, snipes, &c. which can scarcely be numbered among the _small birds_ mentioned 19. 62. 154. [55]. so as to fish, many species appear at our tables which are not found in the roll, trouts, flounders, herrings, &c. [56]. it were easy and obvious to dilate here on the variations of taste at different periods of time, and the reader would probably not dislike it; but so many other particulars demand our attention, that i shall content myself with observing in general, that whereas a very able _italian_ critic, _latinus latinius_, passed a sinister and unfavourable censure on certain seemingly strange medlies, disgusting and preposterous messes, which we meet with in _apicius_; dr. _lister_ very sensibly replies to his strictures on that head, 'that these messes are not immediately to be rejected, because they may be displeasing to some. _plutarch_ testifies, that the ancients disliked _pepper_ and the sour juice of lemons, insomuch that for a long time they only used these in their wardrobes for the sake of their agreeable scent, and yet they are the most wholesome of all fruits. the natives of the _west indies_ were no less averse to _salt_; and who would believe that _hops_ should ever have a place in our common beverage [57], and that we should ever think of qualifying the sweetness of malt, through good housewifry, by mixing with it a substance so egregiously bitter? most of the _american_ fruits are exceedingly odoriferous, and therefore are very disgusting at first to us _europeans_: on the contrary, our fruits appear insipid to them, for want of odour. there are a thousand instances of things, would we recollect them all, which though disagreeable to taste are commonly assumed into our viands; indeed, _custom_ alone reconciles and adopts sauces which are even nauseous to the palate. _latinus latinius_ therefore very rashly and absurdly blames _apicius_, on account of certain preparations which to him, forsooth, were disrelishing.' [58] in short it is a known maxim, that _de gustibus non est disputandum_; and so horace to the same purpose: 'tres mihi convivæ prope dissentire videntur, poscentes vario multum diversa palato. quid dem? quid non dem? renuis tu quod jubet alter. quod petis, id sane est invisum acidumque duobus.' hor. ii. epist. ii. and our roll sufficiently verifies the old observation of martial--_ingeniosa gula est_. [addenda: after _ingeniosa gula est_, add, 'the _italians_ now eat many things which we think perfect carrion. _ray_, trav. p. 362. 406. the _french_ eat frogs and snails. the _tartars_ feast on horse-flesh, the _chinese_ on dogs, and meer _savages_ eat every thing. _goldsmith_, hist. of the earth, &c. ii. p. 347, 348. 395. iii. p. 297. iv. p. 112. 121, &c.'] our cooks again had great regard to the eye, as well as the taste, in their compositions; _flourishing_ and _strewing_ are not only common, but even leaves of trees gilded, or silvered, are used for ornamenting messes, see no. 175 [59]. as to colours, which perhaps would chiefly take place in suttleties, blood boiled and fried (which seems to be something singular) was used for dying black, 13. 141. saffron for yellow, and sanders for red [60]. alkenet is also used for colouring [61], and mulberries [62]; amydon makes white, 68; and turnesole [63] _pownas_ there, but what this colour is the editor professes not to know, unless it be intended for another kind of yellow, and we should read _jownas_, for _jaulnas_, orange-tawney. it was for the purpose of gratifying the sight that _sotiltees_ were introduced at the more solemn feasts. rabelais has comfits of an hundred colours. cury, as was remarked above, was ever reckoned a branch of the art medical; and here i add, that the verb _curare_ signifies equally to dress victuals [64], as to cure a distemper; that every body has heard of _doctor diet, kitchen physick_, &c. while a numerous band of medical authors have written _de cibis et alimentis_, and have always classed diet among the _non-naturals_; so they call them, but with what propriety they best know. hence junius '[greek: diaita] græcis est victus, ac speciatim certa victus ratio, qualis a _medicis_ ad tuendam valetudinem præscribitur [65].' our cooks expressly tell us, in their proem, that their work was compiled 'by assent and avysement of maisters of phisik and of philosophie that dwellid in his [the king's] court' where _physik_ is used in the sense of medecine, _physicus_ being applied to persons prosessing the art of healing long before the 14th century [66], as implying _such_ knowledge and skill in all kinds of natural substances, constituting the _materia medica_, as was necessiary for them in practice. at the end of the editor's ms. is written this rhyme, explicit coquina que est optima medicina [67]. there is much relative to eatables in the _schola salernitana_; and we find it ordered, that a physcian should over-see the young prince's wet-nurse at every meal, to inspect her meat and drink [68]. but after all the avysement of physicians and philosophers, our processes do not appear by any means to be well calculated for the benefit of recipients, but rather inimical to them. many of them are so highly seasoned, are such strange and heterogeneous compositions, meer olios and gallimawfreys, that they seem removed as far as possible from the intention of contributing to health; indeed the messes are so redundant and complex, that in regard to herbs, in no. 6, no less than ten are used, where we should now be content with two or three: and so the sallad, no. 76, consists of no less than 14 ingredients. the physicians appear only to have taken care that nothing directly noxious was suffered to enter the forms. however, in the editor's ms. no. 11, there is a prescription for making a _colys_, i presume a _cullis_, or invigorating broth; for which see dodsley's old plays, vol. ii. 124. vol. v. 148. vol. vi. 355. and the several plays mentioned in a note to the first mentioned passage in the edit. 1780 [69]. i observe further, in regard to this point, that the quantities of things are seldom specified [70], but are too much left to the taste and judgement of the cook, if he should happen to be rash and inconsiderate, or of a bad and undistinguishing taste, was capable of doing much harm to the guests, to invalids especially. though the cooks at rome, as has been already noted, were amongst the lowest slaves, yet it was not so more anciently; sarah and rebecca cook, and so do patroclus and automedon in the ninth iliad. it were to be wished indeed, that the reader could be made acquainted with the names of our _master-cooks_, but it is not in the power of the editor to gratify him in that; this, however, he may be assured of, that as the art was of consequence in the reign of richard, a prince renowned and celebrated in the roll [71], for the splendor and elegance of his table, they must have been persons of no inconsiderable rank: the king's first and second cooks are now esquires by their office, and there is all the reason in the world to believe they were of equal dignity heretofore [72]. to say a word of king _richard_: he is said in the proeme to have been 'acounted the best and ryallest vyaund [curioso in eating] of all esten kynges.' this, however, must rest upon the testimony of our cooks, since it does not appear otherwise by the suffrage of history, that he was particularly remarkable for his niceness and delicacy in eating, like heliogabalus, whose favourite dishes are said to have been the tongues of peacocks and nightingales, and the brains of parrots and pheasants [73]; or like sept. geta, who, according to jul. capitolinus [74], was so curious, so whimsical, as to order the dishes at his dinners to consist of things which all began with the same letters. sardanapalus again as we have it in athenæus [75], gave a _præmium_ to any one that invented and served him with some novel cate; and sergius orata built a house at the entrance of the lucrine lake, purposely for the pleasure and convenience of eating the oysters perfectly fresh. richard ii is certainly not represented in story as resembling any such epicures, or capriccioso's, as these [76]. it may, however, be fairly presumed, that good living was not wanting among the luxuries of that effeminate and dissipated reign. [addenda: after _ninth iliad_, add, 'and dr. _shaw_ writes, p. 301, that even now in the east, the greatest prince is not ashamed to fetch a lamb from his herd and kill it, whilst the princess is impatient till she hath prepared her fire and her kettle to dress it.'] [addenda: after _heretofore_ add, 'we have some good families in england of the name of _cook_ or _coke_. i know not what they may think; but we may depend upon it, they all originally sprang from real and professional cooks; and they need not be ashamed of their extraction, any more than the _butlers_, _parkers_, _spencers_, &c.'] my next observation is, that the messes both in the roll and the editor's ms, are chiefly soups, potages, ragouts, hashes, and the like hotche-potches; entire joints of meat being never _served_, and animals, whether fish or fowl, seldom brought to table whole, but hacked and hewed, and cut in pieces or gobbets [77]; the mortar also was in great request, some messes being actually denominated from it, as _mortrews_, or _morterelys_ as in the editor's ms. now in this state of things, the general mode of eating must either have been with the spoon or the fingers; and this perhaps may have been the reason that spoons became an usual present from gossips to their god-children at christenings [78]; and that the bason and ewer, for washing before and after dinner, was introduced, whence the _ewerer_ was a great officer [79], and the _ewery_ is retained at court to this day [80]; we meet with _damaske water_ after dinner [81], i presume, perfumed; and the words _ewer_ &c. plainly come from the saxon eþe or french eau, _water_. thus, to return, in that little anecdote relative to the conqueror and william fitz-osbern, mentioned above, not the crane, but _the flesh of the crane_ is said to have been under-roasted. table, or case-knives, would be of little use at this time [82], and the art of carving so perfectly useless, as to be almost unknown. in about a century afterwards, however, as appears from archbishop neville's entertainment, many articles were served whole, and lord wylloughby was the carver [83]. so that carving began now to be practised, and the proper terms devised. wynken de worde printed a _book of kervinge_, a. 1508, wherein the said terms are registered [84]. 'the use of _forks_ at table, says dr. percy, did not prevail in england land till the reign of james i. as we learn from a remarkable passage in _coryat_ [85]'; the passage is indeed curious, but too long to be here transcribed, where brevity is so much in view; wherefore i shall only add, that forks are not now used in some parts of spain [86]. but then it may be said, what becomes of the old english hospitaliy in this case, the _roast-beef of old england_, so much talked of? i answer, these bulky and magnificent dishes must have been the product of later reigns, perhaps of queen elizabeth's time, since it is plain that in the days of rich. ii. our ancestors lived much after the french fashion. as to hospitality, the households of our nobles were immense, officers, retainers, and servants, being entertained almost without number; but then, as appears from the northumberland book, and afterwards from the household establisliment of the prince of wales, a. 1610, the individuals, or at least small parties, had their _quantum_, or ordinary, served out, where any good oeconomy was kept, apart to themselves [87]. again, we find in our roll, that great quantities of the respective viands of the hashes, were often made at once, as no. 17, _take hennes or conynges_. 24, _take hares_. 29, _take pygges_. and 31, _take gees_, &c. so that hospitality and plentiful housekeeping could just as well be maintained this way, as by the other of cumbrous unwieldy messes, as much as a man could carry. as the messes and sauces are so complex, and the ingredients consequently so various, it seems necessary that a word should be spoken concerning the principal of them, and such as are more frequently employed, before we pass to our method of proceeding in the publication. butter is little used. 'tis first mentioned no. 81, and occurs but rarely after [88]; 'tis found but once in the editor's ms, where it is written _boter_. the usual substitutes for it are oil-olive and lard; the latter is frequently called _grees_, or _grece_, or _whitegrece_, as no. 18. 193. _capons in grease_ occur in birch's life of henry prince of wales, p. 459, 460. and see lye in jun. etym. v. _greasie_. bishop patrick has a remarkable passage concerning this article: 'though we read of cheese in _homer_, _euripides_, _theocritus_, and others, yet they never mention _butter_: nor hath aristotle a word of it, though he hath sundry observations about cheese; for butter was not a thing then known among the _greeks_; though we see by this and many other places, it was an ancient food among the eastern people [89].' the greeks, i presume, used oil instead of it, and butter in some places of scripture is thought to mean only cream. [90] cheese. see the last article, and what is said of the old britons above; as likewise our glossary. ale is applied, no. 113, et alibi; and often in the editor's ms. as 6, 7, &c. it is used instead of wine, no. 22, and sometimes along with bread in the editor's ms. [91] indeed it is a current opinion that brewing with hops was not introduced here till the reign of king henry viii. [92] _bere_, however, is mentioned a. 1504. [93] wine is common, both red, and white, no. 21. 53. 37. this article they partly had of their own growth, [94] and partly by importation from france [95] and greece [96]. they had also rhenish [97], and probably several other sorts. the _vynegreke_ is among the sweet wines in a ms of mr. astle. rice. as this grain was but little, if at all, cultivated in england, it must have been brought from abroad. whole or ground-rice enters into a large number of our compositions, and _resmolle_, no. 96, is a direct preparation of it. alkenet. _anchusa_ is not only used for colouring, but also fried and yfoundred, 62. yfondyt, 162. i. e. dissolved, or ground. 'tis thought to be a species of the _buglos_. saffron. saffrwm, brit. whence it appears, that this name ran through most languages. mr. weever informs us, that this excellent drug was brought hither in the time of edward iii. [98] and it may be true; but still no such quantity could be produced here in the next reign as to supply that very large consumption which we see made of it in our roll, where it occurs not only as an ingredient in the processes, but also is used for colouring, for flourishing, or garnishing. it makes a yellow, no. 68, and was imported from egypt, or cilicia, or other parts of the levant, where the turks call it safran, from the arabic zapheran, whence the english, italians, french, and germans, have apparently borrowed their respective names of it. the romans were well acquainted with the drug, but did not use it much in the kitchen [99]. pere calmet says, the hebrews were acquainted with anise, ginger, saffron, but no other spices [100]. pynes. there is some difficulty in enucleating the meaning of this word, though it occurs so often. it is joined with dates, no. 20. 52. with honey clarified, 63. with powder-fort, saffron, and salt, 161. with ground dates, raisins, good powder, and salt, 186. and lastly they are fried, 38. now the dish here is _morree_, which in the editor's ms. 37, is made of mulberries (and no doubt has its name from them), and yet there are no mulberries in our dish, but pynes, and therefore i suspect, that mulberries and pynes are the same, and indeed this fruit has some resemblance to a pynecone. i conceive _pynnonade_, the dish, no. 51, to be so named from the pynes therein employed; and quære whether _pyner_ mentioned along with powder-fort, saffron, and salt, no. 155, as above in no. 161, should not be read _pynes_. but, after all, we have cones brought hither from italy full of nuts, or kernels, which upon roasting come out of their _capsulæ_, and are much eaten by the common people, and these perhaps may be the thing intended. [addenda: after _intended_. add, 'see _ray_, trav. p. 283. 407. and _wright's_ trav. p. 112.'] honey was the great and universal sweetner in remote antiquity, and particularly in this island, where it was the chief constituent of _mead_ and _metheglin_. it is said, that at this day in _palestine_ they use honey in the greatest part of their ragouts [101]. our cooks had a method of clarifying it, no. 18. 41. which was done by putting it in a pot with whites of eggs and water, beating them well together; then setting it over the fire, and boiling it; and when it was ready to boil over to take it and cool it, no. 59. this i presume is called _clere honey_, no. 151. and, when honey was so much in use, it appears from barnes that _refining_ it was a trade of itself [102]. sugar, or sugur [103], was now beginning here to take place of honey; however, they are used together, no. 67. sugar came from the indies, by way of damascus and aleppo, to venice, genoa, and pisa, and from these last places to us [104]. it is here not only frequently used, but was of various sorts, as _cypre_, no. 41. 99. 120. named probably from the isle of cyprus, whence it might either come directly to us, or where it had received some improvement by way of refining. there is mention of _blanch-powder or white sugar_, 132. they, however, were not the same, for see no. 193. sugar was clarified sometimes with wine [105]. spices. _species_. they are mentioned in general no. 133, and _whole spices_, 167, 168. but they are more commonly specified, and are indeed greatly used, though being imported from abroad, and from so far as italy or the levant (and even there must be dear), some may wonder at this: but it shouid be considered, that our roll was chiefly compiled for the use of noble and princely tables; and the same may be said of the editor's ms. the spices came from the same part of the world, and by the same route, as sugar did. the _spicery_ was an ancient department at court, and had its proper officers. as to the particular sorts, these are, cinamon. _canell_. 14. 191. _canel_, editor's ms. 10. _kanell_, ibid. 32. is the italian _canella_. see chaucer. we have the flour or powder, no. 20. 62. see wiclif. it is not once mentioned in apicius. macys, 14. 121. editor's ms. 10. _maces_, 134. editor's ms. 27. they are used whole, no. 158. and are always expressed plurally, though we now use the singular, _mace_. see junii etym. cloves. no. 20. dishes are flourished with them, 22. 158. editor's ms. 10. 27. where we have _clowys gylofres_, as in our roll, no. 104. _powdour gylofre_ occurs 65. 191. chaucer has _clowe_ in the singular, and see him v. clove-gelofer. galyngal, 30. and elsewhere. galangal, the long rooted cyperus [106], is a warm cardiac and cephalic. it is used in powder, 30. 47. and was the chief ingredient in _galentine_, which, i think, took its name from it. pepper. it appears from pliny that this pungent, warm seasoning, so much in esteem at rome [107], came from the east indies [108], and, as we may suppose, by way of alexandria. we obtained it no doubt, in the 14th century, from the same quarter, though not exactly by the same route, but by venice or genoa. it is used both whole, no. 35, and in powder, no. 83. and long-pepper occurs, if we read the place rightly, in no. 191. ginger, gyngyn. 64. 136. alibi. powder is used, 17. 20. alibi. and rabelais iv. c. 59. the white powder, 131. and it is the name of a mess, 139. quære whether _gyngyn_ is not misread for _gyngyr_, for see junii etym. the romans had their ginger from troglodytica [109]. cubebs, 64. 121. are a warm spicy grain from the east. grains of paradice, or _de parys_, 137. [110] are the greater cardamoms. noix muscadez, 191. nutmegs. the caraway is once mentioned, no. 53. and was an exotic from _caria_, whence, according to mr. lye, it took its name: 'sunt semina, inquit, _carri_ vel _carrei_, sic dicti a caria, ubi copiosissimè nascitur [111].' powder-douce, which occurs so often, has been thought by some, who have just peeped into our roll, to be the same as sugar, and only a different name for it; but they are plainly mistaken, as is evident from 47. 51. 164. 165. where they are mentioned together as different things. in short, i take powder-douce to be either powder of galyngal, for see editor's ms ii. 20. 24, or a compound made of sundry aromatic spices ground or beaten small, and kept always ready at hand in some proper receptacle. it is otherwise termed _good powders_, 83. 130. and in editor's ms 17. 37. 38 [112]. or _powder_ simply, no. 169, 170. _white powder-douce_ occurs no. 51, which seems to be the same as blanch-powder, 132. 193. called _blaynshe powder_, and bought ready prepared, in northumb. book, p. 19. it is sometimes used with powder-fort, 38. 156. for which see the next and last article. powder-fort, 10. 11. seems to be a mixture likewise of the warmer spices, pepper, ginger, &c. pulverized: hence we have _powder-fort of gynger, other of canel_, 14. it is called _strong powder_, 22. and perhaps may sometimes be intended by _good powders_. if you will suppose it to be kept ready prepared by the vender, it may be the _powder-marchant_, 113. 118. found joined in two places with powderdouce. this speght says is what gingerbread is made of; but skinner disapproves this explanation, yet, says mr. urry, gives none of his own. after thus travelling through the most material and most used ingredients, the _spykenard de spayn_ occurring only once, i shall beg leave to offer a few words on the nature, and in favour of the present publication, and the method employed in the prosecution of it. [illustration: take þe chese and of flessh of capouns, or of hennes & hakke smal and grynde hem smale inn a morter, take mylke of almandes with þe broth of freysh beef. oþer freysh flessh, & put the flessh in þe mylke oþer in the broth and set hem to þe fyre, & alye hem with flour of ryse, or gastbon, or amydoun as chargeaunt as þe blank desire, & with zolks of ayren and safroun for to make hit zelow, and when it is dressit in dysshes with blank desires; styk aboue clowes de gilofre, & strawe powdour of galyugale above, and serue it forth.] the common language of the _formulæ_, though old and obsolete, as naturally may be expected from the age of the ms, has no other difficulty in it but what may easily be overcome by a small degree of practice and application [113]: however, for the further illustration of this matter, and the satisfaction of the curious, a _fac simile_ of one of the recipes is represented in the annexed plate. if here and there a hard and uncouth term or expression may occur, so as to stop or embarrass the less expert, pains have been taken to explain them, either in the annotations under the text, or in the index and glossary, for we have given it both titles, as intending it should answer the purpose of both [114]. now in forming this alphabet, as it would have been an endless thing to have recourse to all our glossaries, now so numerous, we have confined ourselves, except perhaps in some few instances, in which the authorities are always mentioned, to certain contemporary writers, such as the editor's ms, of which we shall speak more particularly hereafter, chaucer, and wiclif; with whom we have associated junius' etymologicon anglicanum. as the abbreviations of the roll are here retained, in order to establish and confirm the age of it, it has been thought proper to adopt the types which our printer had projected for domesday-book, with which we find that our characters very nearly coincide. the names of the dishes and sauces have occasioned the greatest perplexity. these are not only many in number, but are often so horrid and barbarous, to our ears at least, as to be inveloped in several instances in almost impenetrable obscurity. bishop godwin complains of this so long ago as 1616 [115]. the _contents_ prefixed will exhibit at once a most formidable list of these hideous names and titles, so that there is no need to report them here. a few of these terms the editor humbly hopes he has happily enucleated, but still, notwithstanding all his labour and pains, the argument is in itself so abstruse at this distance of time, the helps so few, and his abilities in this line of knowledge and science so slender and confined, that he fears he has left the far greater part of the task for the more sagacious reader to supply: indeed, he has not the least doubt, but other gentlemen of curiosity in such matters (and this publication is intended for them alone) will be so happy as to clear up several difficulties, which appear now to him insuperable. it must be confessed again, thatthe editor may probably have often failed in those very points, which he fancies and flatters himself to have elucidated, but this he is willing to leave to the candour of the public. now in regard to the helps i mentioned; there is not much to be learnt from the great inthronization-feast of archbishop robert winchelsea, a. 1295, even if it were his; but i rather think it belongs to archbishop william warham, a. 1504 [116]. some use, however, has been made of it. ralph bourne was installed abbot of st. augustine's, near canterbury, a. 1309; and william thorne has inserted a list of provisions bought for the feast, with their prices, in his chronicle [117]. the great feast at the inthronization of george nevile archbishop of york, 6 edward iv. is printed by mr. hearne [118], and has been of good service. elizabeth, queen of king henry vii. was crowned a. 1487, and the messes at the dinner, in two courses, are registered in the late edition of leland's collectenea, a. 1770 [119], and we have profited thereby. the lenten inthronization-feast of archbishop william warham, a. 1504 [120], given us at large by mr. hearne [121], has been also consulted. there is a large catalogue of viands in rabelais, lib. iv. cap. 59. 60. and the english translation of mr. ozell affording little information, i had recourse to the french original, but not to much more advantage. there is also a royal feast at the wedding of the earl of devonshire, in the harleian misc. no. 279, and it has not been neglected. randle holme, in his multifarious _academy of armory_, has an alphabet of terms and dishes [122]; but though i have pressed him into the service, he has not contributed much as to the more difficult points. the antiquarian repertory, vol. ii. p. 211, exhibits an entertainment of the mayor of rochester, a. 1460; but there is little to be learned from thence. the present work was printed before no. 31 of the antiquarian repertory, wherein some ancient recipes in cookery are published, came to the editor's hand. i must not omit my acknowledgments to my learned friend the present dean of carlisle, to whom i stand indebted for his useful notes on the northumberland-household book, as also for the book itself. our chief assistance, however, has been drawn from a ms belonging to the editor, denoted, when cited, by the signature _ms. ed._ it is a vellum miscellany in small quarto, and the part respecting this subject consists of ninety-one english recipes (or _nyms_) in cookery. these are disposed into two parts, and are intituled, 'hic incipiunt universa servicia tam de carnibus quam de pissibus.' [123] the second part, relates to the dressing of fish, and other lenten fare, though forms are also there intermixed which properly belong to flesh-days. this leads me to observe, that both here, and in the roll, messes are sometimes accommodated, by making the necessary alterations, both to flesh and fish-days. [124] now, though the subjects of the ms are various, yet the hand-writing is uniform; and at the end of one of the tracts is added, 'explicit massa compoti, anno dñi m'lo ccc'mo octogesimo primo ipso die felicis et audacti.' [125], i.e. 30 aug. 1381, in the reign of rich. ii. the language and orthography accord perfectly well with this date, and the collection is consequently contemporary with our roll, and was made chiefly, though not altogether, for the use of great tables, as appears from the _sturgeon_, and the great quantity of venison therein prescribed for. as this ms is so often referred to in the annotations, glossary, and even in this preface, and is a compilation of the same date, on the same subject, and in the same language, it has been thought adviseable to print it, and subjoin it to the roll; and the rather, because it really furnishes a considerable enlargement on the subject, and exhibits many forms unnoticed in the roll. to conclude this tedious preliminary detail, though unquestionably a most necessary part of his duty, the editor can scarcely forbear laughing at himself, when he reflects on his past labours, and recollects those lines of the poet martial; turpe est difficiles habere nugas, et stultus labor est ineptiarum. ii. 86. and that possibly mesdames _carter_ and _raffald_, with twenty others, might have far better acquitted themselves in the administration of this province, than he has done. he has this comfort and satisfaction, however, that he has done his best; and that some considerable names amongst the learned, humelbergius, torinus, barthius, our countryman dr. lister, almeloveen, and others, have bestowed no less pains in illustrating an author on the same subject, and scarcely of more importance, the _pseudo-apicius_. [1] if, according to petavius and le clerc, the world was created in autumn, when the fruits of the earth were both plentiful and in the highest perfection, the first man had little occasion for much culinary knowledge; roasting or boiling the cruder productions, with modes of preserving those which were better ripened, seem to be all that was necessary for him in the way of _cury_, and even after he was displaced from paradise, i conceive, as many others do, he was not permitted the use of animal food [gen. i. 29.]; but that this was indulged to us, by an enlargement of our charter, after the flood, gen. ix, 3. but, without wading any further in the argument here, the reader is referred to gen. ii. 8. seq. iii. 17, seq. 23. [addenda: add 'vi. 22. where _noah_ and the beasts are to live on the same food.'] [2] genesis xviii. xxvii. though their best repasts, from the politeness of the times, were called by the simple names of _bread_, or a _morsel of bread_, yet they were not unacquainted with modes of dressing flesh, boiling, roasting, baking; nor with sauce, or seasoning, as salt and oil, and perhaps some aromatic herbs. calmet v. meats and eating, and qu. of honey and cream, ibid. [3] athenæus, lib. xii. cap. 3. [4] athenæus, lib. xii. cap. 3. et cafaubon. see also lister ad apicium, præf. p. ix. jungerm. ad jul. polluccm, lib. vi. c. 10. [5] see below. 'tamen uterque [torinus et humelbergius] hæc scripta [i, e. apicii] ad medicinam vendicarunt.' lister, præf. p. iv. viii. ix. [6] athenaæus, p. 519. 660. [7] priv. life of the romans, p. 171. lister's præf, p. iii, but ter. an, i. 1. casaub. ad jul. capitolin. cap. 5. [8] casaub. ad capitolin. l. c. [9] lister's præf. p. ii. vi. xii. [10] fabric. bibl. lat. tom. ii. p. 794. hence dr. bentley ad hor. ii. ferm. 8. 29. stiles it _pseudapicius_. vide listerum, p. iv. [11] cæsar de b. g. v. § 10. [12] strabo, lib. iv. p. 200. pegge's essay on coins of cunob, p. 95. [13] archæologia, iv. p. 61. godwin, de præsul. p. 596, seq. [14] malmsb. p. 9. galfr. mon. vi. 12. [15] lister. ad apic. p. xi. where see more to the same purpose. [16] spelm. life of ælfred, p. 66. drake, eboracum. append, p. civ. [17] speed's history. [18] mons. mallet, cap. 12. [19] wilkins, concil. i. p. 204. drake, ebor. p. 316. append, p. civ. cv. [20] menage, orig. v. gourmand. [21] lord lyttelton, hist. of h. ii. vol. iii. p. 49. [22] harrison, descript. of britain, p. 165, 166. [23] stow, p. 102. 128. [24] lord lyttelton observes, that the normans were delicate in their food, but without excess. life of hen. ii. vol. iii. p. 47. [25] dugd. bar. i. p. 109. henry ii. served to his son. lord lyttelton, iv. p. 298. [26] godwin de præsul. p. 695, renders _carver_ by _dapiser_, but this i cannot approve. see thoroton. p. 23. 28. dugd. bar. i. p. 441. 620. 109. lib. nig. p. 342. kennet, par. ant. p. 119. and, to name no more, spelm. in voce. the _carver_ was an officer inferior to the _dapiser_, or _steward_, and even under his control. vide lel. collect. vi. p. 2. and yet i find sir walter manny when young was carver to philippa queen of king edward iii. barnes hist. of e. iii. p. 111. the _steward_ had the name of _dapiser_, i apprehend, from serving up the first dish. v. supra. [27] sim. dunelm. col. 227. hoveden, p. 469. malms. de pont. p. 286. [28] lib. nig. scaccarii, p. 347. [29] fleta, ii. cap. 75. [30] du fresne, v. magister. [31] du fresne, ibid. [32] du fresne, v. coquus. the curious may compare this list with lib. nig. p. 347. [33] in somner, ant. cant. append. p. 36. they are under the _magister coquinæ_, whose office it was to purvey; and there again the chief cooks are proveditors; different usages might prevail at different times and places. but what is remarkable, the _coquinarius_, or kitchener, which seems to answer to _magister coquinæ_, is placed before the cellarer in tanner's notitia, p. xxx. but this may be accidental. [34] du fresne, v. coquus. [35] somner, append. p. 36. [36] somner, ant. cant. append. p. 36. [37] somner, p. 41. [38] somner, p. 36, 37, 39, sæpius. [39] somner, l. c. [40] m. paris, p4. 69. [41] dugd. bar. i. p. 45. stow, p. 184. m. paris, p. 377. 517. m. westm. p. 364. [42] lel. collectan. vi. p. 7. seq. [43] ibid. p. 9. 13. [44] compare leland, p. 3. with godwin de præsul. p. 695. and so junius in etymol. v. sewer. [45] leland, p. 8, 9. there are now _two yeomen of the mouth_ in the king's household. [46] that of george neville, archbishop of york, 6 edw. iv. and that of william warham, archbishop of canterbury, a.d. 1504. these were both of them inthronization feasts. leland, collectan. vi. p. 2 and 16 of appendix. they were wont _minuere sanguinem_ after these superb entertainments, p. 32. [47] hor. ii. od. xiv. 28. where see mons. dacier. [48] sixty-two were employed by archbishop neville. and the hire of cooks at archbishop warham's feast came to 23 l. 6 s. 8 d. [49] strype, life of cranmer, p. 451, or lel. coll. ut supra, p. 38. sumptuary laws in regard to eating were not unknown in ancient rome. erasm. colloq. p. 81. ed. schrev. nor here formerly, see lel. coll. vi. p. 36. for 5 ed. ii. [50] i presume it may be the same roll which mr. hearne mentions in his lib. nig. scaccarii, i. p. 346. see also three different letters of his to the earl of oxford, in the brit. mus. in the second of which he stiles the roll _a piece of antiquity, and a very great rarity indeed_. harl. mss. no. 7523. [51] see the proem. [52] this lord was grandson of edward duke of bucks, beheaded a. 1521, whose son henry was restored in blood; and this edward, the grandson, born about 1571, might be 14 or 15 years old when he presented the roll to the queen. [53] mr. topham's ms. has _socas_ among the fish; and see archbishop nevil's feast, 6 e. iv. to be mentioned below. [54] of which see an account below. [55] see northumb. book, p. 107, and notes. [56] as to carps, they were unknown in england t. r. ii. fulier, worth. in sussex, p. 98. 113. stow, hist. 1038. [57] the italians still call the hop _cattiva erba_. there was a petition against them t. h. vi. fuller, worth. p. 317, &c. evelyn, sylva, p. 201. 469. ed. hunter. [58] lister, præf. ad apicium, p. xi. [59] so we have _lozengs of golde_. lel. collect. iv. p. 227. and a wild boar's head _gylt_, p. 294. a peacock with _gylt neb_. vi. p. 6. _leche lambart gylt_, ibid. [60] no. 68. 20. 58. see my friend dr. percy on the northumberland book, p. 415. and ms ed. 34. [61] no. 47. 51. 84. [62] no. 93. 132. ms ed. 37. [63] perhaps turmerick. see ad loc. [64] ter. andr. i. 1. where donatus and mad. dacier explain it of cooking. mr. hearne, in describing our roll, see above, p. xi, by an unaccountable mistake, read _fary_ instead of _cury_, the plain reading of the ms. [65] junii etym. v. diet. [66] reginaldus phisicus. m. paris, p. 410. 412. 573. 764. et in vit. p. 94. 103. chaucer's _medicus_ is a doctor of phisick, p.4. v. junii etym. voce physician. for later times, v. j. rossus, p. 93. [67] that of donatus is modest 'culina medicinæ famulacrix est.' [68] lel. collect. iv. p. 183. 'diod. siculus refert primos ægypti reges victum quotidianum omnino sumpsisse ex medicorum præscripto.' lister ad apic. p. ix. [69] see also lylie's euphues, p. 282. cavendish, life of wolsey, p. 151, where we have _callis_, malè; cole's and lyttleton's dict. and junii etymolog. v. collice. [70] see however, no. 191, and editor's ms ii. 7. [71] vide the proeme. [72] see above. [73] univ. hist. xv. p. 352. 'æsopus pater linguas avium humana vocales lingua cænavit; filius margaritas.' lister ad apicium, p. vii. [74] jul. capitolinus, c. 5. [75] athenæus, lib. xii. c. 7. something of the same kind is related of heliogabalus, lister præf. ad apic. p. vii. [76] to omit the paps of a pregnant sow, hor. i. ep. xv. 40. where see mons. dacier; dr. fuller relates, that the tongue of carps were accounted by the ancient roman palate-men most delicious meat. worth. in sussex. see other instances of extravagant roman luxury in lister's præf. to apicius, p. vii. [77] see, however, no. 33, 34, 35, 146. [addenda: add 'reflect on the spanish _olio_ or _olla podrida_, and the french fricassée.'] [78] the king, in shakespeare, hen. viii. act iv. sc. 2. and 3. calls the gifts of the sponsors, _spoons_. these were usually gilt, and, the figures of the apostles being in general carved on them, were called _apostle spoons_. see mr. steevens's note in ed. 1778, vol. vii. p. 312, also gent. mag. 1768, p. 426. [79] lel. collect. iv. p. 328. vi. p. 2. [80] see dr. percy's curious notes on the northumb. book, p. 417. [81] ibid. vi. p. 5. 18. [82] they were not very common at table among the greeks. casaub. ad athenæum, col. 278. but see lel. coll. vi. p. 7. [83] leland, collectan. vi. p. 2. archbishop warham also had his carver, ibid. p. 18. see also, iv. p. 236. 240. he was a great officer. northumb. book, p. 445. [84] ames, typ. ant. p. 90. the terms may also be seen in rand. holme iii. p. 78. [85] dr. percy, 1. c. [86] thicknesse, travels, p., 260. [87] dr. birch, life of henry prince of wales, p. 457. seq. [88] no. 91, 92. 160. [89] bishop patrick on genesis xviii. 8. [90] calmer, v. butter. so judges iv, 19. compared with v. 25. [91] ib. no. 13, 14, 15. [92] stow, hist. p. 1038. [93] lel. coll. vi. p. 30. and see dr. percy on northumb. book, p. 414. [94] archæologia, i. p. 319. ill, p. 53. [95] barrington's observ. on statutes, p. 209. 252. edit. 3d. archæolog. i. p. 330. fitz-stephen, p. 33. lel. coll. vi. p. 14. northumb. book, p. 6. and notes. [96] no. 20. 64. 99. [97] no. 99. [98] fun. mon. p. 624 [99] dr. lister, præf. ad apicium, p. xii. [100] calmet. dict. v. eating. [101] calmet. dict. v. meats. [102] barnes, hist. of e. iii. p. 111. [103] no. 70, editor's ms. 17. alibi. [104] moll, geogr. ii. p. 130. harris, coll. of voyages, i. p. 874. ed. campbell. [105] no. 20. 148. [106] glossary to chaucer. see the northumb. book, p. 415 and 19. also quincy's dispens. and brookes's nat. hist. of vegetables. [107] lister, præf. ad apicium, p. xii. [108] plinius, nat. hist. xii. cap. 7. [109] bochart. iii. col. 332. [110] see our gloss. voce greynes. [111] lye, in junii etymolog. [112] but see the next article. [113] doing, hewing, hacking, grinding, kerving, &c. are easily understood. [114] by combining the index and glossary together, we have had an opportunity of elucidating some terms more at large than could conveniently be done in the notes. we have also cast the index to the roll, and that to the editor's ms, into one alphabet; distinguishing, however, the latter from the former. [115] godwin de præsul. p. 684. [116] in dr. drake's edition of archbishop parker, p. lxiii. it is given to archbishop winchelsea: but see mr. battely's append. to _cantuaria sacra_, p. 27. or the archæologia, i. p. 330. and leland's collectanea, vi. p. 30. where it is again printed, and more at large, and ascribed to warham. [117] thorne, chron. inter x script. col. 2010. or lel. collect. vi. p. 34. ed. 1770. [118] leland, collect. vi. p. 2. see also randle holme, iii. p. 77. bishop godwin de præsul. p. 695. ed. richardson; where there are some considerable variations in the messes or services, and he and the roll in leland will correct one another. [119] vol. iv. p. 226. [120] see first paragraph before. [121] leland's collect. vi. p. 16. [122] holme, acad. of armory, iii. p. 81. [123] it is _pissibus_ again in the title to the second part. [124] no. 7. 84. here no. 17. 35. 97. [125] in the common calendars of our missals and breviaries, the latter saint is called _adauctus_, but in the kalend. roman. of joh. fronto, paris. 1652, p. 126, he is written _audactus_, as here; and see martyrolog. bedæ, p. 414. the forme of cury. ... fome [1] of cury [2] was compiled of the chef maister cokes of kyng richard the secunde kyng of .nglond [3] aftir the conquest. the which was acounted þe [4] best and ryallest vyand [5] of alle csten .ynges [6] and it was compiled by assent and avysement of maisters and [7] phisik [8] and of philosophie þat dwellid in his court. first it techiþ a man for to make commune potages and commune meetis for howshold as þey shold be made craftly and holsomly. aftirward it techiþ for to make curious potages & meetes and sotiltees [9] for alle maner of states bothe hye and lowe. and the techyng of the forme of making of potages & of meetes bothe of flessh and of fissh. buth [10] y sette here by noumbre and by ordre. sso þis little table here sewyng [11] wole teche a man with oute taryyng: to fynde what meete þat hym lust for to have. or [12] to make gronnden benes . . . . . i. for to make drawen benes. . . . . . . . . ii. for to make grewel forced.. . . . . . . . iii. caboches in potage. . . . . . . . . . . . iiii. rapes in potage . . . . . . . . . . . . . v. eowtes of flessh. . . . . . . . . . . . . vi. hebolas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . vii. gowrdes in potage . . . . . . . . . . . . viii. ryse of flessh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . ix. funges. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . x. bursen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xi. corat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xii. noumbles. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xiii. roobroth. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xiiii. tredure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xv. mounchelet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xvi. bukkenade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xvii. connat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xviii. drepee. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xix. mawmenee. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx. egurdouce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xxi. capouns in conney . . . . . . . . . . . . xxii. haares in talbotes. . . . . . . . . . . . xxiii. haares in papdele . . . . . . . . . . . . xxiiii. connynges in cynee. . . . . . . . . . . . xxv. connynges in gravey . . . . . . . . . . . xxvi. chykens in gravey . . . . . . . . . . . . xxvii. filetes in galyntyne. . . . . . . . . . . xxviii. pigges in sawse sawge . . . . . . . . . . xxix. sawse madame. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xxx. gees in hoggepot. . . . . . . . . . . . . xxxi. carnel of pork. . . . . . . . . . . . . . xxxii. chikens in caudell. . . . . . . . . . . . xxxiii. chikens in hocchee. . . . . . . . . . . . xxxiii. for to boyle fesauntes, partyches capons and curlewes . . . . . . . . . . . xxx. v. blank manng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xxxvi. blank dessorre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . xxxvii. morree. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xxxviii. charlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xxxix. charlot y forced. . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ii. cawdel ferry. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ii. i. iusshell. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ii. iii.[13] iusshell enforced . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ii. iiii. mortrews. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ii. v. blank mortrews. . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ii. vi. brewet of almony. . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ii. vii. peions y stewed . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ii. viii. loseyns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ii. ix. tartletes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ii. x. pynnonade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ii. xi. rosee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ii. xii. cormarye. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ii. xiii. new noumbles of deer. . . . . . . . . . . xx.ii. xiiii. nota. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ii. xv. nota. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ii. xvi. ipynee. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ii. xvii. chyryse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ii. xviii. payn foundewe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ii. xix. crotoun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iii. vyne grace. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iii. i. fonnell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iii. ii. douce ame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iii. iii. connynges in cirypp . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iii. iiii. leche lumbard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iii. v. connynges in clere broth. . . . . . . . . xx.iii. vi. payn ragoun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iii. vii. lete lardes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iii. viii. furmente with porpeys . . . . . . . . . . xx.iii. ix. perrey of pesoun. . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iii. x. pesoun of almayn. . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iii. xi. chiches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iii. xii. frenche owtes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iii. xiii. makke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iii. xiiii. aquapates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iii. xv. salat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iii. xvi. fenkel in soppes. . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iii. xvii. clat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iii. xviii. appulmoy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iii. xix. slete soppes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iiii. letelorye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iiii. i. sowpes dorry. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iiii. ii. rapey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iiii. iii. sause sarzyne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iiii. iiii. creme of almanndes. . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iiii. v. grewel of almandes. . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iiii. vi. cawdel of almandes mylk . . . . . . . . . xx.iiii. vii. iowtes of almannd mylk. . . . . . . . . . xx.iiii. viii. fygey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iiii. ix. pochee. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iiii. x. brewet of ayrenn. . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iiii. xi. macrows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iiii. xii. tostee. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iiii. xiii. gyndawdry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iiii. xiiii. erbowle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iiii. xv. resmolle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iiii. xvi. vyannde cipre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iiii. xvii. vyannde cipre of samon. . . . . . . . . . xx.iiii. xviii. vyannde ryal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.iiii. ix. compost . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c. gelee of fyssh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . c. i. gelee of flessh . . . . . . . . . . . . . c. ii. chysanne. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c. iii. congur in sawce . . . . . . . . . . . . . c. iiii. rygh in sawce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c. v. makerel in sawce. . . . . . . . . . . . . c. vi. pykes in brasey . . . . . . . . . . . . . c. vii. porpeys in broth. . . . . . . . . . . . . c. viii. ballok broth. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . c. ix. eles in brewet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . c. x cawdel of samoun. . . . . . . . . . . . . c. xi. plays in cynee. . . . . . . . . . . . . . c. xii. for to make flaumpeyns. . . . . . . . . . c. xiii. for to make noumbles in lent. . . . . . . c. xiiii. for to make chawdoun for lent . . . . . . c. xv. furmente with porpays . . . . . . . . . . c. xvi. fylettes in galyntyne . . . . . . . . . . c. xvii. veel in buknade . . . . . . . . . . . . . c. xviii. sooles in cyney . . . . . . . . . . . . . c. ix. tenches in cyney. . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vi. oysters in gravey . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vi. i muskels in brewet . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vi. ii oysters in cyney. . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vi. iii. cawdel of muskels . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vi. iiii. mortrews of fyssh . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vi. v laumpreys in galyntyne. . . . . . . . . . xx.vi. vi. laumprouns in galyntyne . . . . . . . . . xx.vi. vii. losyns in fysshe day. . . . . . . . . . . xx.vi. viii. sowpes in galyntyne . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vi. ix. sobre sawse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vi. x. colde brewet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vi. xi. peeres in confyt. . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vi. xii. egur douce of fyssh . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vi. xiii. cold brewet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vi. xiiii. pevorat for veel and venysoun . . . . . . xx.vi. xv. sawce blaunche for capouns y sode . . . . xx.vi. xvi. sawce noyre for capons y rosted . . . . . xx.vi. xvii. galentyne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vi. xviii. gyngeuer. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vi. xix. verde sawse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vii. sawce noyre for mallard . . . . . . . . . xx.vii. i. cawdel for gees . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vii. ii. chawdon for swannes . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vii. iii. sawce camelyne. . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vii. iiii. lumbard mustard . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vii. v. nota. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vii. vi. nota. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vii. vii. frytour blaunched . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vii. viii. frytour of pasturnakes. . . . . . . . . . xx.vii. ix. frytour of mylke. . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vii. x. frytour of erbes. . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vii. xi. raisiowls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vii. xii. whyte milates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vii. xiii. crustardes of flessh. . . . . . . . . . . xx.vii. xiiii. mylates of pork . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vii. xv. crustardes of fyssh . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vii. xvi. crustardes of erbis on fyssh day. . . . . xx.vii. xvii. lesshes fryed in lentoun. . . . . . . . . xx.vii. xviii. wastels y farced. . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.vii. xix. sawge y farced. . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.viii. sawgeat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.viii. i. cryspes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.viii. ii. cryspels. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.viii. iii. tartee. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.viii. iiii. tart in ymbre day . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.viii. v. tart de bry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.viii. vi. tart de brymlent. . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.viii. vii. tartes of flessh. . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.viii. viii. tartletes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.viii. ix. tartes of fyssh . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.viii. x. sambocade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.viii. xi. erbolat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.viii. xii. nysebek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.viii. xiii. for to make pom dorryes. & oþer þynges. . xx.viii. xiiii. cotagres. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.viii. xv. hart rows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.viii. xvi. potews. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.viii. xvii. sachus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.viii. xviii. bursews . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.viii. xix. spynoches y fryed . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ix. benes y fryed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ix. i. russhewses of fruyt . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ix. ii. daryols . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ix. iii. flaumpens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ix. iiii. chewetes on flessh day. . . . . . . . . . xx.ix. v. chewetes on fyssh day . . . . . . . . . . xx.ix. vi. hastletes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.xi. vii. comadore. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ix. viii. chastletes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ix. ix. for to make twey pecys of flesshe to fasten to gydre. . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ix. x. pur fait y pocras . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ix. xi. for to make blank maunnger. . . . . . . . xx.ix. xii. for to make blank desire. . . . . . . . . xx.ix. xiii. for to make mawmoune. . . . . . . . . . . xx.ix. xiiii. the pety peruaunt . . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ix. xv. and the pete puant. . . . . . . . . . . . xx.ix. xvi. xplicit tabula. [1] this is a kind of preamble to the roll. a space is left for the initial word, intended to be afterwards written in red ink, and presumed to be ðis. _fome_, the _lineola_ over it being either casually omitted, or since obliterated, means _form_, written foume below, and in no. 195. [2] cury. cookery. we have adopted it in the title. v. preface. [3] ynglond. _e_ was intended to be prefixed in red ink. vide note [1] and [6]. [4] þ. this saxon letter with the power of _th_, is used almost perpetually in our roll and the editor's ms. every one may not have adverted to it; but this character is the ground of our present abbreviations y'e the, y't that, y's this, &c. the y in these cases being evidently only an altered and more modern way of writing þ. [5] vyaund. this word is to be understood in the concrete, _quasi_ vyander, a curious epicure, an _apicius_. v. preface. [6] csten ynges. christian kings. _k_ being to be inserted afterwards (v. note [1] and [3]) in red ink. chaucer, v. christen. [7] and. read _of_. [8] phisik. v. preface. [9] sotiltees. devices in paste, wax, and confectionary ware; reviving now, in some measure, in our grander deserts. v. index. [10] buth. _be_, or _are_. v. index. [11] sewing. following; from the french. hence our _ensue_ written formerly _ensew_. skelton, p. 144; and _ensiew_, ames typ. ant. p. 9. [12] f is omitted for the reason given in note 1. [13] no. xx.ii. ii. is omitted. for to make gronden benes [1]. i. take benes and dry hem in a nost [2] or in an ovene and hulle hem wele and wyndewe [3] out þe hulk and wayshe hem clene an do hem to seeþ in gode broth [4] an ete hem with bacon. [1] gronden benes. beans ground (y ground, as no. 27. 53. 105.) stript of their hulls. this was a dish of the poorer householder, as also is 4 and 5, and some others. [2] a nost. an ost, or kiln. vide gloss. _voce_ ost. [3] wyndewe. winnow. [4] gode broth. prepared beforehand. for to make drawen benes. ii. take benes and seeþ hem and grynde hem in a morter [1] and drawe hem up [2] with gode broth an do oynouns in the broth grete mynced [3] an do þerto and colour it with safroun and serve it forth. [1] morter. mortar. [2] drawen hem up. mix them. [3] grete mynced. grossly, not too small. for to make grewel forced [1]. iii. take grewel and do to the fyre with gode flessh and seeþ it wel. take the lire [2] of pork and grynd it smal [3] and drawe the grewel thurgh a straynour [4] and colour it wiþ safroun and serue [5] forth. [1] forced, farced, enriched with flesh. vide gloss. [2] lire. flesh. [3] grynd it smal. bruise or beat in a mortar. [4] stryno'. strainer. [5] serue. serve. vide gloss. caboches [1] in potage. iiii. take caboches and quarter hem and seeth hem in gode broth with oynouns y mynced and the whyte of lekes y slyt and corue smale [2] and do þer to safroun an salt and force it with powdour douce [3]. [1] caboches. probably cabbages. [2] corue smale. cut small. v. _i corue_ in gloss. [3] powdour douce. sweet aromatic powder. v. pref. rapes [1] in potage. v. take rapus and make hem clene and waissh hem clene. quare hem [2]. parboile hem. take hem up. cast hem in a gode broth and seeþ hem. mynce oynouns and cast þerto safroun and salt and messe it forth with powdour douce. the wise [3] make of pasturnakes [4] and skyrwates. [5] [1] rapes, or rapus. turneps. [2] quare hem. cut them in _squares_, or small pieces. v. gloss. [3] in the wise, _i.e._ in the same manner. _self_ or _same_, seems to be casually omitted. vide no. 11 and 122. [4] pasturnakes, for parsnips or carrots. v. gloss. [5] skyrwates, for skirrits or skirwicks. eowtes [1] of flessh. vi. take borage, cool [2]. langdebef [3]. persel [4]. betes. orage [5]. auance [6]. violet [7]. saueray [8]. and fenkel [9]. and whane þey buth sode; presse hem wel smale. cast hem in gode broth an seeþ hem. and serue hem forth. [1] eowtes. _lowtes_, no. 88, where, in the process, it is _rowtes_. quære the meaning, as roots does not apply to the matter of the recipe. in no. 73 it is written _owtes_. [2] cole, or colewort. [3] langdebef. bugloss, buglossum sylvestre. these names all arise from a similitude to an ox's tongue. v. ms. ed. no. 43. [4] persel. parsley. [5] orage. orach, _atriplex_. miller, gard. dict. [6] auance. fortè avens. v. avens, in gloss. [7] the leaves probably, and not the flower. [8] savory. [9] fenkel. fennil. hebolace [1]. vii. take oynouns and erbes and hewe hem small and do þes to gode broth. and aray [2] it as þou didest caboches. if þey be in fyssh day. make [3] on the same maner [4] with water and oyle. and if it be not in lent alye [5] it with zolkes of eyren [6]. and dresse it forth and cast þer to powdour douce. [1] hebolace. contents, hebolas; for _herbolas_, from the herbs used; or, if the first letter be omitted (see the contents), _chebolas_, from the chibols employed. [2] aray. dress, set it out. [3] make. dress. vide gloss. [4] maner. manner. [5] alye. mix. v. gloss. [6] eyren. eggs. v. gloss. gourdes in potage. viii. take young gowrdes pare hem and kerue [1] hem on pecys. cast hem in gode broth, and do þer to a gode pertye [2] of oynouns mynced. take pork soden. grynd it and alye it þer with and wiþ zolkes of ayrenn. do þer to safroun and salt, and messe it forth with powdour douce. [1] kerve. cut. [2] partye. party, i.e. quantity. ryse [1] of flesh. ix. take ryse and waishe hem clene. and do hem in erthen pot with gode broth and lat hem seeþ wel. afterward take almaund mylke [2] and do þer to. and colour it wiþ safroun an salt, an messe forth. [1] ryse. rice. v. gloss. [2] almand mylke. v. gloss. funges [1]. x. take funges and pare hem clere and dyce hem [2]. take leke and shred hym small and do hym to seeþ in gode broth. colour it with safron and do þer inne powdour fort [3]. [1] funges. mushrooms. [2] dyce hem. cut them in squares. vide _quare_ in gloss. [3] powdour fort. vide preface. bursen [1]. xi. take the whyte of lekes. slype hem and shrede hem small. take noumbles [2] of swyne and boyle hem in broth and wyne. take hym up and dresse hem and do the leke in the broth. seeþ and do the noumbles þer to make a lyour [3] of brode blode and vynegre and do þer to powdour fort seeþ oynouns mynce hem and do þer to. the self wise make of pigges. [1] bursen. qu. the etymon. [2] noumbles. entrails. v. gloss. [3] lyo', lyour. a mixture. vide _alye_ in gloss. corat [1]. xii. take the noumbles of calf. swyne. or of shepe. parboile hem and skerne hem to dyce [2] cast hem in gode broth and do þer to erbes. grynde chyballes [3]. smale y hewe. seeþ it tendre and lye it with zolkes of eyrenn. do þer to verious [4] safroun powdour douce and salt, and serue it forth. [1] corat. qu. [2] kerve hem to dyce. v. _quare_ in gloss. [3] chyballes. chibols, young onions. v. gloss. [4] verious. verjuice. noumbles. xiii. take noumbles of deer oþer [1] of oþer beest parboile hem kerf hem to dyce. take the self broth or better. take brede and grynde with the broth. and temper it [2] up with a gode quantite of vyneger and wyne. take the oynouns and parboyle hem. and mynce hem smale and do þer to. colour it with blode and do þer to powdour fort and salt and boyle it wele and serue it fort [3]. [1] oþer. other, i.e. or. [2] temper it. temper it, i. e. mix it. [3] fort. miswritten for _forth_. so again no. 31. 127. roo [1] broth. xiiii. take the lire of the deer oþer of the roo parboile it on smale peces. seeþ it wel half in water and half in wyne. take brede and bray it wiþ the self broth and drawe blode þer to and lat it seeth to gedre with powdour fort of gynger oþer of canell [2]. and macys [3]. with a grete porcioun of vineger with raysouns of coraunte [4]. [1] roo. roe. the recipe in ms. ed. no. 53. is very different. [2] canell. cinnamon. [3] macys. mace. v. preface and gloss. [4] raysouns of coraunte. currants. v. gloss. tredure [1]. xv. take brede and grate it. make a lyre [2] of rawe ayrenn and do þerto safroun and powdour douce. and lye it up [3] with gode broth. and make it as a cawdel. and do þerto a lytel verious. [1] tredure. a cawdle; but quære the etymon. the french _tres dure_ does not seem to answer. [2] lyre. mixture. [3] lye it up. mix it. monchelet [1]. xvi. take veel oþer moton and smite it to gobettes seeþ it in gode broth. cast þerto erbes yhewe [2] gode wyne. and a quantite of oynouns mynced. powdour fort and safroun. and alye it with ayren and verious. but lat not seeþ after. [1] monchelet. _mounchelet_, contents. [2] y hewe. shred. bukkenade [1]. xvii. take hennes [2] oþer conynges [3] oþer veel oþer oþer flessh an hewe hem to gobettes waische it and hit well [4]. grynde almandes unblaunched. and drawe hem up with þe broth cast þer inne raysons of corance. sugur. powdour gyngur erbes ystewed in grees [5]. oynouns and salt. if it is to to [6] thynne. alye it up with flour of ryse oþer with oþer thyng and colour it with safroun. [1] bukkenade. vide no. 118. qu. [2] hennes; including, i suppose, chicken and pullets. [3] conynges. coneys, rabbits. [4] hit well. this makes no sense, unless _hit_ signifies smite or beat. [5] grees. fat, lard, _grece_. no. 19. [6] to to. so again, no. 124. to is _too_, v. gloss. and _too_ is found doubled in this manner in _mirrour for magistrates_, p. 277. 371, and other authors. connates [1]. xviii. take connes and pare hem. pyke out the best and do hem in a pot of erthe. do þerto whyte grece þat he stewe þer inne. and lye hem up with hony clarified and with rawe zolkes [2] and with a lytell almaund mylke and do þerinne powdour fort and safron. and loke þat it be yleesshed [3], [1] connat seems to be a kind of marmalade of connes, or quinces, from fr. _coing_. chaucer, v. coines. written quinces no. 30. [2] yolkes, i. e. of eggs. [3] yleesshed. v. gloss. drepee [1]. xix. take blanched almandes grynde hem and temper hem up with gode broth take oynouns a grete quantite parboyle hem and frye hem and do þerto. take smale bryddes [2] parboyle hem and do þerto pellydore [3] and salt. and a lytel grece. [1] drepee. qu. [2] bryddes. birds. _per metathesin; v. r. in indice_. [3] pellydore. perhaps _pellitory_. _peletour_, 104. mawmenee [1]. xx. take a pottel of wyne greke. and ii. pounde of sugur take and clarifye the sugur with a qantite of wyne an drawe it thurgh a straynour in to a pot of erthe take flour of canell [2]. and medle [3] with sum of the wyne an cast to gydre. take pynes [4] with dates and frye hem a litell in grece oþer in oyle and cast hem to gydre. take clowes [5] an flour of canel hool [6] and cast þerto. take powdour gyngur. canel. clower, colour it with saundres a lytel yf hit be nede cast salt þerto. and lat it seeþ; warly [7] with a slowe fyre and not to thyk [8], take brawn [9] of capouns yteysed [10]. oþer of fesauntes teysed small and cast þerto. [1] vide no. 194, where it is called _mawmenny_. [2] flour of canell. powder of cinamon. [3] medle. mix. [4] pynes. a nut, or fruit. vide gloss. [5] clowes. cloves. [6] hool. whole. how can it be the flour, or powder, if whole? quære, _flower_ of cand for _mace_. [7] warly. warily, gently. [8] not to thyk. so as to be too thick; or perhaps, _not to thicken_. [9] brawn. fleshy part. few capons are cut now except about darking in surry; they have been excluded by the turkey, a more magnificent, but perhaps not a better fowl. [10] yteysed, or _teysed_, as afterwards. pulled in pieces by the fingers, called _teezing_ no. 36. this is done now with flesh of turkeys, and thought better than mincing. vide junius, voce _tease_. egurdouce [1]. xxi. take conynges or kydde and smyte hem on pecys rawe. and frye hem in white grece. take raysouns of coraunce and fry hem take oynouns parboile hem and hewe hem small and fry hem. take rede wyne suger with powdour of peper. of gynger of canel. salt. and cast þerto. and lat it seeþ with a gode quantite of white grece an serue it forth. [1] egurdouce. the term expresses _piccante dolce_, a mixture of sour and sweet; but there is nothing of the former in the composition. vide gloss. capouns in councys [1]. xxii. take capons and rost hem right hoot þat þey be not half y nouhz and hewe hem to gobettes and cast hem in a pot, do þerto clene broth, seeþ hem þat þey be tendre. take brede and þe self broth and drawe it up yferer [2], take strong powdour and safroun and salt and cast þer to. take ayrenn and seeþ hem harde. take out the zolkes and hewe the whyte þerinne, take the pot fro þe fyre and cast the whyte þerinne. messe the disshes þerwith and lay the zolkes hool and flour it with clowes. [1] concys seems to be a kind of known sauce. v. gloss. [2] yfere. together. hares [1] in talbotes [2]. xxiii. take hares and hewe hem to gobettes and seeþ hem with þe blode unwaisshed in broth. and whan þey buth y nowh: cast hem in colde water. pyke and waisshe hem clene. cole [3] the broth and drawe it thurgh a straynour. take oþer blode and cast in boylyng water seeþ it and drawe it thurgh a straynour. take almaundes unblaunched. waisshe hem and grynde hem and temper it up with the self broth. cast al in a pot. tak oynouns and parboile hem smyte hem small and cast hem in to þis pot. cast þerinne powdour fort. vynegur an salt. [1] haares, contents. so again, no. 24. [2] talbotes. ms. ed. no. 9, _talbotays_. [3] cole. cool. hares in papdele [1]. xxiiii. take hares parboile hem in gode broth. cole the broth and waisshe the fleyssh. cast azeyn [2] to gydre. take obleys [3] oþer wafrouns [4] in stede of lozeyns [5]. and cowche [6] in dysshes. take powdour douce and lay on salt the broth and lay onoward [7] an messe forth. [1] papdele. qu. [2] azeyn. again. [3] obleys, called _oblatæ_; for which see hearne ad lib. nig. i. p. 344. a kind of wafer, otherwise called _nebulæ_; and is the french _oublie, oble_. leland, collect. iv. p. 190. 327. [4] wafrouns. wafers. [5] loseyns. vide gloss. [6] cowche. lay. [7] onoward. upon it. connynges in cynee [1]. xxv. take connynges and smyte hem on peces. and seeþ hem in gode broth, mynce oynouns and seeþ hem in grece and in gode broth do þerto. drawe a lyre of brede. blode. vynegur and broth do þerto with powdour fort. [1] cynee. vide gloss. connynges in grauey. xxvi. take connynges smyte hem to pecys. parboile hem and drawe hem with a gode broth with almandes blanched and brayed. do þerinne sugur and powdour gynger and boyle it and the flessh þerwith. flour it with sugur and with powdour gynger an serue forth. chykens in gravey. xxvii. take chykens and serue hem the same manere and serue forth. fylettes [1] of galyntyne [2]. xxviii. take fylettes of pork and rost hem half ynowh smyte hem on pecys. drawe a lyour of brede and blode. and broth and vineger. and do þerinne. seeþ it wele. and do þerinne powdour an salt an messe it forth. [1] fylettes. fillets. [2] of galyntyne. in galyntyne. contents, _rectlus_. as for _galentine_, see the gloss. pygges in sawse sawge [1]. xxix. take pigges yskaldid and quarter hem and seeþ hem in water and salt, take hem and lat hem kele [2]. take persel sawge. and grynde it with brede and zolkes of ayrenn harde ysode. temper it up with vyneger sum what thyk. and, lay the pygges in a vessell. and the sewe onoward and serue it forth. [1] sawge. sage. as several of them are to be used, these pigs must have been small. [2] kele. cool. sawse madame. xxx. take sawge. persel. ysope. and saueray. quinces. and peeres [1], garlek and grapes. and fylle the gees þerwith. and sowe the hole þat no grece come out. and roost hem wel. and kepe the grece þat fallith þerof. take galytyne and grece and do in a possynet, whan the gees buth rosted ynowh; take an smyte hem on pecys. and þat tat [2] is withinne and do it in a possynet and put þerinne wyne if it be to thyk. do þerto powdour of galyngale. powdour douce and salt and boyle the sawse and dresse þe gees in disshes and lay þe sowe onoward. [1] peares. pears. [2] that tat, i.e. that that. vide gloss. gees in hoggepot [1]. xxxi. take gees and smyte hem on pecys. cast hem in a pot do þerto half wyne and half water. and do þerto a gode quantite of oynouns and erbest. set it ouere the fyre and couere [2] it fast. make a layour of brede and blode an lay it þerwith. do þerto powdour fort and serue it fort. [1] hoggepot. hodge-podge. _ochepot_. ms. ed. no. 22. french, _hochepot_. cotgrave. see junii enym. v. _hotch-potch_. [2] couere. cover. carnel [1] of pork. xxxii. take the brawnn of swyne. parboile it and grynde it smale and alay it up with zolkes of ayren. set it ouere [2] the fyre with white grece and lat it not seeþ to fast. do þerinne safroun an powdour fort and messe it forth. and cast þerinne powdour douce, and serue it forth. [1] carnel, perhaps _charnel_, from fr. _chaire_. [2] ouere. over. so again, no. 33. chykenns [1] in cawdel. xxxiii. take chikenns and boile hem in gode broth and ramme [2] hem up. þenne take zolkes of ayrenn an þe broth and alye it togedre. do þerto powdour of gynger and sugur ynowh safroun and salt. and set it ouere the fyre withoute boyllyng. and serue the chykenns hole [3] oþer ybroke and lay þe sowe onoward. [1] chikens. contents. so again in the next recipe. [2] ramme. qu. press them close together. [3] hole. whole. chykens in hocchee [1]. xxxiiii. take chykenns and scald hem. take parsel and sawge withoute eny oþere erbes. take garlec an grapes and stoppe the chikenns ful and seeþ hem in gode broth. so þat þey may esely be boyled þerinne. messe hem an cast þerto powdour dowce. [1] hochee. this does not at all answer to the french _hachis_, or our _hash_; therefore qu. for to boile fesauntes. partruches. capons and curlewes. xxxv. take gode broth and do þerto the fowle. and do þerto hool peper and flour of canel a gode quantite and lat hem seeþ þwith. and messe it forth. and þer cast þeron podour dowce. blank maunger [1]. xxxvi. take capouns and seeþ hem, þenne take hem up. take almandes blaunched. grynd hem and alay hem up with the same broth. cast the mylk in a pot. waisshe rys and do þerto and lat it seeþ. þanne take brawn of capouns teere it small and do þerto. take white grece sugur and salt and cast þerinne. lat it seeþ. þenne messe it forth and florissh it with aneys in confyt rede oþer whyt. and with almaundes fryed in oyle. and serue it forth. [1] blank maunger. very different from ours. vide gloss. blank dessorre [1]. xxxvii. take almandes blaunched, grynde hem and temper hem up with whyte wyne, on fleissh day with broth. and cast þerinne flour of rys. oþer amydoun [2], and lye it þerwith. take brawn of capouns yground. take sugur and salt and cast þerto and florissh it with aneys whyte. take a vessel yholes [3] and put in safroun. and serue it forth. [1] blank dessorre. v. gloss. [2] amydoun. "fine wheat flour steeped in water, strained and let stand to settle, then drained and dried in the sun; used for bread or in broths." cotgrave. used in no. 68 for colouring white. [3] yholes. quære. morree [1]. xxxviii. take almandes blaunched, waisshe hem. grynde hem. and temper hem up with rede wyne, and alye hem with flour of rys. do þerto pynes yfryed. and colour it with saundres. do þerto powdour fort and powdour douce and salt, messe it forth and flour it [2] with aneys confyt whyte. [1] morree. ms. ed. 37. _murrey_. ibid. ii. 26. _morrey_; probably from the mulberries used therein. [2] flour it. flourish it. charlet [1]. xxxix. take pork and seeþ it wel. hewe it smale. cast it in a panne. breke ayrenn and do þerto and swyng [2] it wel togyder. do þerto cowe mylke and safroun and boile it togyder. salt it & messe it forth. [1] charlet; probably from the french, _chair_. qu. minced meat, and the next article, forced meat. [2] swyng. shake, mix. charlet yforced. xx.ii. take mylke and seeþ it, and swyng þerwith zolkes of ayrenn and do þerto. and powdour of gynger suger. and safroun and cast þerto. take the charlet out of the broth and messe it in dysshes, lay the sewe onoward. flour it with powdour douce. and serue it forth. cawdel ferry [1]. xx.ii. i. take flour of payndemayn [2] and gode wyne. and drawe it togydre. do þerto a grete quantite of sugur cypre. or hony clarified, and do þerto safroun. boile it. and whan it is boiled, alye it up with zolkes of ayrenn. and do þerto salt and messe it forth. and lay þeron sugur and powdour gyngur. [1] ferry. quære. we have _carpe in ferry_, lel. coll. vi. p. 21. [2] payndemayn. white bread. chaucer. jusshell [1]. xx.ii. iii. take brede ygrated and ayrenn and swyng it togydre. do þerto safroun, sawge. and salt. & cast broth. þerto. boile it & messe it forth. [1] jusshell. see also next number. _jussell_, ms. ed. 21, where the recipe is much the same. lat. _juscellam_, which occurs in the old scholiast on juvenal iv. 23; and in apicius, v. 3. vide du fresne, v. _jusselium_ and _juscellum_, where the composition consists of _vinum_, _ova_, and _sagmea_, very different from this. faber in thesauro cites _juscellum gallinæ_ from theod. priscianus. n.b. no. xx.ii. ii. is omitted both here and in the contents. jusshell enforced [1]. xx.ii. iiii. take and do þerto as to charlet yforced. and serue it forth. [1] jusshell enforced. as the _charlet yforced_ here referred to was made of pork, compare no. 40 with no. 39. so in theod. priscian we have _jussetlum gallinæ_. mortrews [1]. xx.ii. v. take hennes and pork and seeþ hem togyder. take the lyre of hennes and of the pork, and hewe it small and grinde it all to doust [2]. take brede ygrated and do þerto, and temper it with the self broth and alye it with zolkes of ayrenn, and cast þeron powdour fort, boile it and do þerin powdour of gyngur sugur. safroun and salt. and loke þer it be stondyng [3], and flour it with powdour gynger. [1] mortrews. vide gloss. [2] doust. dust, powder. [3] stondyng. stiff, thick. mortrews blank. xx.ii. vi. take pork and hennes and seeþ hem as to fore. bray almandes blaunched, and temper hem up with the self broth. and alye the fleissh with the mylke and white flour of rys. and boile it. & do þerin powdour of gyngur sugar and look þat it be stondyng. brewet of almony [1]. xx.ii. vii. take conynges or kiddes and hewe hem small on moscels [2] oþer on pecys. parboile hem with the same broth, drawe an almaunde mylke and do the fleissh þerwith, cast þerto powdour galyngale & of gynger with flour of rys. and colour it wiþ alkenet. boile it, salt it. & messe it forth with sugur and powdour douce. [1] almony. almaine, or germany. _almany_. fox, part i. p. 239. _alamanie_. chron. sax. p. 242. v. ad no. 71. [2] moscels. morsels. peiouns [1] ystewed. xx.ii. viii. take peions and stop hem with garlec ypylled and with gode erbes ihewe. and do hem in an erthen pot. cast þerto gode broth and whyte grece. powdour fort. safroun verious & salt. [1] peiouns, pejons, i. e. pigeons, _j_ is never written here in the middle of a word. loseyns [1]. xx.ii. ix. take gode broth and do in an erthen pot, take flour of payndemayn and make þerof past with water. and make þerof thynne foyles as paper [2] with a roller, drye it harde and seeþ it in broth take chese ruayn [3] grated and lay it in disshes with powdour douce. and lay þeron loseyns isode as hoole as þou mizt [4]. and above powdour and chese, and so twyse or thryse, & serue it forth. [1] loseyns. vide in gloss. [2] foyles as paper. _leaves_ of paste as thin as _paper_. [3] chese ruyan. 166. vide gloss. [4] mizt. might, i.e. can. tartlettes [1]. xx.ii. x. take pork ysode and grynde it small with safroun, medle it with ayrenn and raisons of coraunce and powdour fort and salt, and make a foile of dowhz [2] and close the fars [3] þerinne. cast þe tartletes in a panne with faire water boillyng and salt, take of the clene flessh withoute ayren & bolle it in gode broth. cast þerto powdour douce and salt, and messe the tartletes in disshes & helde [4] the sewe þeronne. [1] tarlettes. _tartletes_ in the process. [2] foile of dowhz, or dowght. a leaf of paste. [3] fars. forced-meat. [4] helde. cast. pynnonade [1]. xx.ii. xi. take almandes iblaunched and drawe hem sumdell thicke [2] with gode broth oþer with water and set on the fire and seeþ it, cast þerto zolkes of ayrenn ydrawe. take pynes yfryed in oyle oþer in grece and þerto white powdour douce, sugur and salt. & colour it wiþ alkenet a lytel. [1] pynnonade. so named from the _pynes_ therein used. [2] sumdell thicke. somewhat thick, thickish. rosee [1]. xx.ii. xii. take thyk mylke as to fore welled [2]. cast þerto sugur a gode porcioun pynes. dates ymynced. canel. & powdour gynger and seeþ it, and alye it with flores of white rosis, and flour of rys, cole it, salt it & messe it forth. if þou wilt in stede of almaunde mylke, take swete cremes of kyne. [1] rosee. from the white roles therein mentioned. see no. 41. in mi. ed. but no. 47 there is totally different. [2] welled, f. _willed_; directed. cormarye [1]. xx.ii. xiii. take colyandre [2], caraway smale grounden, powdour of peper and garlec ygrounde in rede wyne, medle alle þise [3] togyder and salt it, take loynes of pork rawe and fle of the skyn, and pryk it wel with a knyf and lay it in the sawse, roost þerof what þou wilt, & kepe þat þat fallith þerfro in the rosting and seeþ it in a possynet with faire broth, & serue it forth witþ þe roost anoon [4]. [1] cormarye. quære. [2] golyandre. coriander. [3] þise. these. [4] anoon. immediately. newe noumbles of deer. xx.ii. xiiii. take noumbles and waisshe hem clene with water and salt and perboile hem in water. take hem up an dyce hem. do with hem as with ooþer noumbles. nota. xx.ii. xv. the loyne of the pork, is fro the hippe boon to the hede. nota. xx.ii. xvi. the fyletes buth two, that buth take oute of the pestels [1]. [1] pestels. legs. spynee [1]. xx.ii.xvii. take and make gode thik almaund mylke as tofore. and do þerin of flour of hawthorn [2]. and make it as a rose. & serue it forth. [1] spynee. as made of haws, the berries of spines, or hawthorns. [2] hawthern. hawthorn. chyryse [1] xx.ii. xviii. take almandes unblanched, waisshe hem, grynde hem, drawe hem up with gode broth. do þerto thridde part of chiryse. þe stones. take oute and grynde hem smale, make a layour of gode brede an powdour and salt and do þerto. colour it with sandres so that it may be stondyng, and florish it with aneys and with cheweryes, and strawe þeruppon and serue it forth. [1] chyryse. _chiryse_ in the process. _cheriseye._ ms. ed. ii. 18. _chiryes_ there are cherries. and this dish is evidently made of cherries, which probably were chiefly imported at this time from flanders, though they have a saxon name, [anglo-saxon: cyrre]. payn fondew [1]. xx.ii. xix. take brede and frye it in grece oþer in oyle, take it and lay it in rede wyne. grynde it with raisouns take hony and do it in a pot and cast þerinne gleyres [2] of ayrenn wiþ a litel water and bete it wele togider with a sklyse [3]. set it ouer the fires and boile it. and whan the hatte [4] arisith to goon [5] ouer, take it adoun and kele it, and whan it is þer clarified; do it to the oþere with sugur and spices. salt it and loke it be stondyng, florish it with white coliaundre in confyt. [1] foundewe. contents. it seems to mean _dissolved_. v. _found_ in gloss. [2] gleyres. whites. [3] sklyse. slice. [4] hatte. seems to mean _bubling_ or _wallop_. [5] goon. go. crotoun [1]. xx.iii. take the offal of capouns oþer of oþere briddes. make hem clene and parboile hem. take hem up and dyce hem. take swete cowe mylke and cast þerinne. and lat it boile. take payndemayn [2] and of þe self mylke and drawe thurgh a cloth and cast it in a pot and lat it seeþ, take ayren ysode. hewe the white and cast þerto, and alye the sewe with zolkes of ayren rawe. colour it with safron. take the zolkes and fry hem and florish hem þerwith and with powdour douce. [1] crotoun. ms. ed. 24. has _craytoun_, but a different dish. [2] payndemayn. whitebread. v. ad no. 41. vyne grace [1]. xx.iii. i. take smale fylettes of pork and rost hem half and smyte hem to gobettes and do hem in wyne an vynegur and oynouns ymynced and stewe it yfere do þerto gode poudours an salt, an serue it forth. [1] vyne grace. named probably from _grees_, wild swine, and the mode of dressing in _wine_. v. gloss. voce _vyne grace_. fonnell [1]. xx.iii. ii. take almandes unblaunched. grynde hem and drawe hem up with gode broth, take a lombe [2] or a kidde and half rost hym. or the þridde [3] part, smyte hym in gobetes and cast hym to the mylke. take smale briddes yfasted and ystyned [4]. and do þerto sugur, powdour of canell and salt, take zolkes of ayrenn harde ysode and cleeue [5] a two and ypaunced [6] with flour of canell and florish þe sewe above. take alkenet fryed and yfoundred [7] and droppe above with a feþur [8] and messe it forth. [1] fonnell. nothing in the recipe leads to the etymon of this multifarious dish. [2] lombe. lamb. [3] thridde. third, per metathesin. [4] yfasted and ystyned. [5] cleeue. cloven. [6] ypaunced. pounced. [7] yfoundred. melted, dissolved. [8] feþ'. feather. douce ame [1]. xx.iii. iii. take gode cowe mylke and do it in a pot. take parsel. sawge. ysope. saueray and ooþer gode herbes. hewe hem and do hem in the mylke and seeþ hem. take capouns half yrosted and smyte hem on pecys and do þerto pynes and hony clarified. salt it and colour it with safroun an serue it forth. [1] douce ame. _quasi_, a delicious dish. v. blank desire in gloss. titles of this tissue occur in apicius. see humelberg. p. 2. connynges in cyrip [1]. xx.iii. iiii. take connynges and seeþ hem wel in good broth. take wyne greke and do þerto with a porcioun of vyneger and flour of canel, hoole clowes quybibes hoole, and ooþer gode spices with raisouns coraunce and gyngyner ypared and ymynced. take up the conynges and smyte hem on pecys and cast hem into the siryppe and seeþ hem a litel on the fyre and sue it forth. [1] cyrip. in the process _siryppe. cirypp_, contents. _sirop_ or _sirup_, as 133. _syryp_, 132. leche lumbard [1]. xx.iii. v. take rawe pork and pulle of the skyn. and pyke out þe skyn synewes and bray the pork in a morter with ayrenn rawe do þerto suger, salt, raysouns coraunce, dates mynced, and powdour of peper powdour gylofre. an do it in a bladder, and lat it seeþ til it be ynowhz. and whan it is ynowh, kerf it leshe it [2] in likenesse of a peskodde [3], and take grete raysouns and grynde hem in a morter, drawe hem up wiþ rede wyne, do þerto mylke of almaundes colour it with saunders an safroun. and do þerto powdour of peper an of gilofre and boile it. and whan it is iboiled; take powdour of canel and gynger, and temper it up with wyne. and do alle þise thynges togyder. and loke þat it be rennyns [4], and lat it not seeþ after that it is cast togyder, an serue it forth. [1] leche lumbard. so called from the country. randle home says, _leach_ is "a kind of jelly made of cream, ising-glass, sugar and almonds, with other compounds." [2] leshe it. vide gloss. [3] peskodde. hull or pod of a pea. [4] rennyns. perhaps _thin_, from the old _renne_, to run. vide gloss. connynges in clere broth. xx.iii. vi. take connynges and smyte hem in gobetes and waissh hem and do hem in feyre water and wyne, and seeþ hem and skym hem. and whan þey buth isode pyke hem clene, and drawe the broth thurgh a straynour and do the flessh þerwith in a possynet and styne it [1]. and do þerto vynegur and powdour or gynger and a grete quantite and salt after the last boillyng and serue it forth. [1] styne it. close it. v. gloss. payn ragoun [1]. xx.iii. vii. take hony suger and clarifie it togydre. and boile it with esy fyre, and kepe it wel fro brennyng and whan it hath yboiled a while; take up a drope [2] þerof wiþ þy fyngur and do it in a litel water and loke if it hong [3] togydre. and take it fro the fyre and do þerto the thriddendele [4] an powdour gyngener and stere [5] it togyder til it bigynne to thik and cast it on a wete [6] table. lesh it and serue it forth with fryed mete on flessh dayes or on fysshe dayes. [1] payn ragoun. it is not at all explained in the recipe. [2] drope. drop. [3] hong. hing, or hang. [4] thriddendele. third part, perhaps, _of brede_, i. e. of bread, may be casually omitted here. v. gloss. [5] stere. stir. [6] wete. wet. lete lardes [1]. xx.iii. viii. take parsel and grynde with a cowe mylk, medle it with ayrenn and lard ydyced take mylke after þat þou hast to done [2] and myng [3] þerwith. and make þerof dyuerse colours. if þou wolt have zelow, do þerto safroun and no parsel. if þou wolt have it white; nonþer parsel ne safroun but do þerto amydoun. if þou wilt have rede do þerto sandres. if þou wilt have pownas [4] do þerto turnesole [5]. if þou wilt have blak do þerto blode ysode and fryed. and set on the fyre in as many vessels as þou hast colours þerto and seeþ it wel and lay þise colours in a cloth first oon. and sithen anoþer upon him. and sithen the þridde and the ferthe. and presse it harde til it be all out clene. and whan it is al colde, lesh it thynne, put it in a panne and fry it wel. and serue it forth. [1] lete lardes. _lards_ in form of dice are noticed in the process. see lel. coll. vi. p. 5. _lete_ is the fr. _lait_, milk. v. no. 81. or brit. _llaeth_. hence, perhaps, _lethe cpyrus_ and _lethe rube_. lel. coll. iv. p. 227. but vi. p. 5, it is _leche_. [2] to done, i. e. done. [3] myng. mix. [4] pownas. qu. [5] turnesole. not the flower _heliotrope_, but a drug. northumb. book, p. 3. 19. i suppose it to be _turmeric_. v. brooke's nat. hist. of vegetables, p. 9. where it is used both in victuals and for dying. furmente with porpays [1]. xx.iii. ix. take almandes blanched. bray hem and drawe hem up with faire water, make furmente as before [2] and cast þer furmente þerto. & messe it with porpays. [1] porpays. _porpeys_, contents, and so no. 116. porpus. [2] as before. this is the first mention of it. perrey of pesoun [1]. xx.iii. x. take pesoun and seeþ hem fast and covere hem til þei berst. þenne take up hem and cole hem thurgh a cloth. take oynouns and mynce hem and seeþ hem in the same sewe and oile þerwith, cast þerto sugur, salt and safroun, and seeþ hem wel þeratt þerafter and serue hem forth. [1] perrey of pesoun, i.e. peas. _perrey_ seems to mean pulp: vide no. 73. mr. ozell in rabelais, iv. c. 60. renders _puree de pois_ by _peas soup_. peson of almayne [1]. xx.iii. xi take white pesoun, waisshe hem seeþ hem a grete while, take hem and cole hem thurgh a cloth, waisshe hem in colde water til the hulles go off, cast hem in a pot and couere þat no breth [2] go out. and boile hem right wel. and cast þerinne gode mylke of allmandes and a pertye of flour of rys wiþ powdour gynger safroun. and salt. [1] almayne. germany; called almony no. 47. [2] breth. breath, air, steam. ms. ed. no. 2. chyches [1]. xx.iii. xii. take chiches and wry hem [2] in ashes all nyzt, oþer lay hem in hoot aymers [3], at morrowe [4], waisshe hem in clene water and do hem ouer the fire with clene water. seeþ hem up and do þerto oyle, garlec, hole safroun. powdour fort and salt, seeþ it and messe it forth. [1] chyches. _viciæ_, vetches. in fr. _chiches_. [2] wry hem. _dry hem_, or _cover hem_. chaucer, v. wrey. [3] aymers. embers; of which it is evidently a corruption. [4] at morrowe. next morning. frenche [1]. xx.iii. xiii. take and seeþ white peson and take oute þe perrey [2] & parboile erbis & hewe hem grete & cast hem in a pot with the perrey pulle oynouns & seeþ hem hole wel in water & do hem to þe perrey with oile & salt, colour it with safroun & messe it and cast þeron powdour douce. [1] frenche. contents have it more fully, _frenche owtes_. v. ad no. 6. [2] perrey. pulp. v. ad no. 70. makke [1]. xx.iii. xiiii. take drawen benes and seeþ hem wel. take hem up of the water and cast hem in a morter grynde hem al to doust til þei be white as eny mylk, chawf [2] a litell rede wyne, cast þeramong in þe gryndyng, do þerto salt, leshe it in disshes. þanne take oynouns and mynce hem smale and seeþ hem in oile til þey be al broun [3]. and florissh the disshes therwith. and serue it forth. [1] makke. _ignotum_. [2] chawf. warm. [3] broun. brown. aquapatys [1]. xx.iii. xv. pill garlec and cast it in a pot with water and oile. and seeþ it, do þerto safroun, salt, and powdour fort and dresse it forth hool. [1] aquapatys. _aquapates_, contents. perhaps named from the water used in it. salat. xx.iii. xvi. take persel, sawge, garlec, chibolles, oynouns, leek, borage, myntes, porrectes [1], fenel and ton tressis [2], rew, rosemarye, purslarye [3], laue and waische hem clene, pike hem, pluk hem small wiþ þyn [4] honde and myng hem wel with rawe oile. lay on vynegur and salt, and serue it forth. [1] porrectes. fr. _porrette_. [2] ton tressis. cresses. v. gloss. [3] purslarye. purslain. [4] þyn. thine. fenkel in soppes. xx.iii. xvii. take blades of fenkel. shrede hem not to smale, do hem to seeþ in water and oile and oynouns mynced þerwith. do þerto safroun and salt and powdour douce, serue it forth, take brede ytosted and lay the sewe onoward. clat [1]. xx.iii. xviii. take elena campana and seeþ it water [2]. take it up and grynde it wel in a morter. temper it up with ayrenn safroun and salt and do it ouer the fire and lat it not boile. cast above powdour douce and serue it forth. [1] clat. qu. [2] water; r. _in water_, as in no. 79. appulmoy [1]. xx.iii. xix. take apples and seeþ hem in water, drawe hem thurgh a straynour. take almaunde mylke & hony and flour of rys, safroun and powdour fort and salt. and seeþ it stondyng [2]. [1] appulmoy. _appulmos_. ms. ed. no. 17. named from the apples employed. v. no. 149. [2] stondyng. thick. slete [1] soppes. xx.iiii. take white of lekes and slyt hem, and do hem to seeþ in wyne, oile and salt, rost brede and lay in dysshes and the sewe above and serue it forth. [1] slete. slit. letelorye [1]. xx.iiii. i. take ayrenn and wryng hem thurgh a styunour and do þerto cowe mylke with butter and safroun and salt and seeþ it wel. leshe it. and loke þat it be stondyng. and serue it forth. [1] letelorye. the latter part of the compound is unknown, the first is fr. _lait_, milk. vide no. 68. sowpes dorry [1]. xx.iiii. ii. take almaundes brayed, drawe hem up with wyne. ooile it, cast þeruppon safroun and salt, take brede itosted in wyne. lay þerof a leyne [2] and anoþer of þe sewe and alle togydre. florish it with sugur powdour gyngur and serue it forth. [1] sowpes dorry. sops endorsed. v. _dorry_ in gloss. [2] a leyne. a layer. rape [1]. xx.iiii. iii. take half fyges and half raisouns pike hem and waisshe hem in water skalde hem in wyne. bray hem in a morter, and drawe hem thurgh a straynour. cast hem in a pot and þerwiþ powdour of peper and ooþer good powdours. alay it up with flour of rys. and colour it with saundres. salt it. & messe it forth. [1] rape. a dissyllable, as appears from _rapey_ in the contents. _rapy_, ms. ed. no. 49. _rapee_, ibid. ii. 28. sawse sarzyne [1]. xx.iiii. iiii. take heppes and make hem clene. take almaundes blaunched, frye hem in oile and bray hem in a morter with heppes. drawe it up with rede wyne, and do þerin sugur ynowhz with powdour fort, lat it be stondyng, and alay it with flour of rys. and colour it with alkenet and messe it forth. and florish it with pomme garnet. if þou wilt in flesshe day. seeþ capouns and take the brawnn and tese hem smal and do þerto. and make the lico [2] of þis broth. [1] sawse sarzyne. _sause_. contents. _saracen_, we presume, from the nation or people. there is a recipe in ms. ed. no. 54 for a bruet of _sarcynesse_, but there are no pomgranates concerned. [2] lico. liquor. crème of almaundes. xx.iiii. v. take almaundes blaunched, grynde hem and drawe hem up thykke, set hem ouer the fyre & boile hem. set hem adoun and spryng [1] hem wicii vyneger, cast hem abrode uppon a cloth and cast uppon hem sugur. whan it is colde gadre it togydre and leshe it in dysshes. [1] spryng. sprinkle. grewel of almaundes. xx.iiii. vi. take almaundes blaunched, bray hem with oot meel [1]. and draw hem up with water. cast þeron safroun & salt &c. [1] oot meel. oat-meal. cawdel of almaund mylk. xx.iiii. vii. take almaundes blaunched and drawe hem up with wyne, do þerto powdour of gyngur and sugur and colour it with safroun. boile it and serue it forth. jowtes [1] of almaund mylke. xx.iiii. viii. take erbes, boile hem, hewe hem and grynde hem smale. and drawe hem up with water. set hem on the fire and seeþ the rowtes with the mylke. and cast þeron sugur & salt. & serue it forth. [1] jowtes. v. ad no. 60. fygey [1]. xx.iiii. ix. take almaundes blanched, grynde hem and drawe hem up with water and wyne: quarter fygur hole raisouns. cast þerto powdour gyngur and hony clarified. seeþ it wel & salt it, and serue forth. [1] fygey. so named from the figs therein used. a different recipe, ms. ed. no. 3, has no figs. pochee [1]. xx.iiii. x. take ayrenn and breke hem in scaldyng hoot water. and whan þei bene sode ynowh. take hem up and take zolkes of ayren and rawe mylke and swyng hem togydre, and do þerto powdour gyngur safroun and salt, set it ouere the fire, and lat it not boile, and take ayrenn isode & cast þe sew onoward. & serue it forth. [1] pochee. poached eggs. very different from the present way. brewet of ayrenn. xx.iiii. xi. take ayrenn, water and butter, and seeþ hem yfere with safroun and gobettes of chese. wryng ayrenn thurgh a straynour. whan the water hath soden awhile: take þenne the ayrenn and swyng hem with verious. and cast þerto. set it ouere the fire and lat it not boile. and serue it forth. macrows [1]. xx.iiii. xii. take and make a thynne foyle of dowh. and kerve it on peces, and cast hem on boillyng water & seeþ it wele. take chese and grate it and butter cast bynethen and above as losyns. and serue forth. [1] macrows. _maccherone_, according to the recipe in _altieri_, corresponds nearly enough with our process; so that this title seems to want mending, and yet i know not how to do it to satisfaction. tostee [1]. xx.iiii. xiii. take wyne and hony and found it [2] togyder and skym it clene. and seeþ it long, do þerto powdour of gyngur. peper and salt, tost brede and lay the sew þerto. kerue pecys of gyngur and flour it þerwith and messe it forth. [1] tostee. so called from the toasted bread. [2] found it. mix it. gyngawdry [1]. xx.iiii. xiiii. take the powche [2] and the lyuour [3] of haddok, codlyng and hake [4] and of ooþer fisshe, parboile hem, take hem and dyce hem small, take of the self broth and wyne, a layour of brede of galyntyne with gode powdours and salt, cast þat fysshe þerinne and boile it. & do þerto amydoun. & colour it grene. [1] gyngawdry. qu. [2] powche. crop or stomach. [3] lyuour. liver. v. no. 137. [4] hake. "asellus alter, sive merlucius, aldrov." so mr. ray. see pennant, iii. p. 156. erbowle [1]. xx.iiii. xv. take bolas and scald hem with wyne and drawe hem with [2] a straynour do hem in a pot, clarify hony and do þerto with powdour fort. and flour of rys. salt it & florish it with whyte aneys. & serue it forth. [1] erbowle. perhaps from the _belas_, or bullace employed. [2] with, i.e. thurgh or thorough. resmolle [1]. xx.iiii. xvi. take almaundes blaunched and drawe hem up with water and alye it with flour of rys and do þerto powdour of gyngur sugur and salt, and loke it be not stondyng [2], messe it and serue it forth. [1] resmolle. from the rice there used; for ms. ed. ii. no. 5. has _rysmoyle_, where _moyle_ seems to be fr. _moile_, as written also in the roll. _rice molens potage_. lel. coll. vi. p. 26. [2] not stondyng. thin, diluted. v. no. 98. not to [too] stondyng, 121. vyaunde cypre [1]. xx.iiii. xvii. take oot mele and pike out the stones and grynde hem smal, and drawe hem thurgh a straynour. take mede oþer wyne ifonded in sugur and do þise þerinne. do þerto powdour and salt, and alay it with flour of rys and do þat it be stondyng. if thou wilt on flesh day; take hennes and pork ysode & grynde hem smale and do þerto. & messe it forth. [1] cypre. _cipre_, contents here and no. 98. vyande cypre of samoun [1]. xx.iiii. xviii. take almandes and bray hem unblaunched. take calwar [2] samoun and seeþ it in lewe water [3] drawe up þyn almandes with the broth. pyke out the bones out of the fyssh clene & grynde it small & cast þy mylk & þat togyder & alye it with flour of rys, do þerto powdour fort, sugur & salt & colour it with alkenet & loke þat hit be not stondyng and messe it forth. [1] samoun. salmon. [2] calwar. salwar, no. 167. r. holme says, "_calver_ is a term used to a flounder when to be boiled in oil, vinegar, and spices and to be kept in it." but in lancashire salmon newly taken and immediately dressed is called _calver salmon_: and in littleton _salar_ is a young salmon. [3] lewe water. warm. v. gloss. vyannd ryal. xx.iiii. xix. take wyne greke, oþer rynysshe wyne and hony clarified þerwith. take flour of rys powdour of gyngur oþ of peper & canel. oþer flour of canel. powdour of clowes, safroun. sugur cypre. mylberyes, oþer saundres. & medle alle þise togider. boile it and salt it. and loke þat it be stondyng. compost [1]. c. take rote of parsel. pasternak of rasenns [2]. scrape hem waisthe hem clene. take rapes & caboches ypared and icorne [3]. take an erthen panne with clene water & set it on the fire. cast all þise þerinne. whan þey buth boiled cast þerto peeres & parboile hem wel. take þise thynges up & lat it kele on a fair cloth, do þerto salt whan it is colde in a vessel take vineger & powdour & safroun & do þerto. & lat alle þise thinges lye þerin al nyzt oþer al day, take wyne greke and hony clarified togider lumbarde mustard & raisouns corance al hool. & grynde powdour of canel powdour douce. & aneys hole. & fenell seed. take alle þise thynges & cast togyder in a pot of erthe. and take þerof whan þou wilt & serue forth. [1] compost. a composition to be always ready at hand. holme, iii. p. 78. lel. coll. vi. p. 5. [2] pasternak of rasenns. qu. [3] ypared and icorne. the first relates to the rapes, the second to the caboches, and means carved or cut in pieces. gele [1] of fyssh. c. i. take tenches, pykes [2], eelys, turbut and plays [3], kerue hem to pecys. scalde hem & waische hem clene. drye hem with a cloth do hem in a panne do þerto half vyneger & half wyne & seeþ it wel. & take the fysshe and pike it clene, cole the broth thurgh a cloth into a erthen panne. do þerto powdour of pep and safroun ynowh. lat it seeþ and skym it wel whan it is ysode dof [4] grees clene, cowche fisshes on chargeours & cole the sewe thorow a cloth onoward & serue it forth. [1] gele. jelly. _gelee_, contents here and in the next recipe. _gely_, ms. ed. no. 55, which presents us with much the same prescription. [2] it is commonly thought this fish was not extant in england till the reign of h. viii.; but see no. 107. 109. 114. so lucys, or tenchis, ms. ed. ii 1. 3. pygus or tenchis, ii. 2. pikys, 33 chaucer, v. luce; and lel. coll. iv. p. 226. vi. p. 1. 5. _luce salt_. ibid. p. 6. mr. topham's ms. written about 1230, mentions _lupos aquaticos five luceas_ amongst the fish which the fishmonger was to have in his shop. they were the arms of the lucy family so early as edw. i. see also pennant's zool. iii. p. 280, 410. [3] plays. plaise, the fish. [4] dof, i. e. do of. gele of flessh. c. ii. take swyner feet & snowter and the eerys [1]. capouns. connynges calues fete. & wiasche hem clene. & do hem to seeþ in the þriddel [2] of wyne & vyneger and water and make forth as bifore. [1] eerys. ears. [2] thriddel. v. ad no. 67. chysanne [1]. c. iii. take roches. hole tenches and plays & sinyte hem to gobettes. fry hem in oyle blaunche almaundes. fry hem & cast wyne & of vyneger þer pridde part þerwith fyges drawen & do þerto powdour fort and salt. boile it. lay the fisshe in an erthen panne cast the sewe þerto. seeþ oynouns ymynced & cast þerinne. kepe hit and ete it colde. [1] chysanne. qu. congur [1] in sawse. c. iiii. take the conger and scald hym. and smyte hym in pecys & seeþ hym. take parsel. mynt. peleter. rosmarye. & a litul sawge. brede and salt, powdour fort and a litel garlec, clower a lite, take and grynd it wel, drawe it up with vyneger thurgh a clot. cast the fyssh in a vessel and do þe sewe onoward & serue it forth. [1] congur. the eel called _congre_. _sawce_, contents here, and no. 105, 106. rygh [1] in sawse. c. v. take ryghzes and make hem clene and do hem to seeþ, pyke hem clene and frye hem in oile. take almandes and grynde hem in water or wyne, do þerto almandes blaunched hole fryed in oile. & coraunce seeþ the lyour grynde it smale & do þerto garlec ygronde & litel salt & verious powdour fort & safroun & boile it yfere, lay the fysshe in a vessel and cast the sewe þerto. and messe it forth colde. [1] rygh. a fish, and probably the _ruffe_. makerel in sawse. c. vi. take makerels and smyte hem on pecys. cast hem on water and various. seeþ hem with mynter and wiþ oother erbes, colour it grene or zelow, and messe it forth. pykes in brasey [1]. c. vii. take pykes and undo hem on þe wombes [2] and waisshe hem clene and lay hem on a roost irne [3] þenne take gode wyne and powdour gynger & sugur good wone [4] & salt, and boile it in an erthen panne & messe forth þe pyke & lay the sewe onoward. [1] brasey. qu. [2] wombs. bellies. [3] roost irene. a roasting iron. [4] good wone. a good deal. v. gloss. porpeys in broth. c. viii. make as þou madest noumbles of flesh with oynouns. balloc [1] broth. c. ix. take eelys and hilde [2] hem and kerue hem to pecys and do hem to seeþ in water and wyne so þat it be a litel ouer stepid [3]. do þerto sawge and ooþer erbis with few [4] oynouns ymynced, whan the eelis buth soden ynowz do hem in a vessel, take a pyke and kerue it to gobettes and seeþ hym in the same broth do þerto powdour gynger galyngale canel and peper, salt it and cast the eelys þerto & messe it forth. [1] balloc. _ballok_, contents. [2] hilde. skin. [3] on stepid. steeped therein. v. no. 110. [4] few, i.e. a few. eles in brewet. c. x. take crustes of brede and wyne and make a lyour, do þerto oynouns ymynced, powdour. & canel. & a litel water and wyne. loke þat it be stepid, do þerto salt, kerue þin eelis & seeþ hem wel and serue hem forth. cawdel of samoun c.xi. take the guttes of samoun and make hem clene. perboile hem a lytell. take hem up and dyce hem. slyt the white of lekes and kerue hem smale. cole the broth and do the lekes þerinne with oile and lat it boile togyd yfere [1]. do the samoun icorne þerin, make a lyour of almaundes mylke & of brede & cast þerto spices, safroun and salt, seeþ it wel. and loke þat it be not stondyng. [1] togyd yfere. one of these should be struck out. plays in cyee. c.xii. take plays and smyte hem [1] to pecys and fry hem in oyle. drawe a lyour of brede & gode broth & vyneger. and do þerto powdour gynger. canel. peper and salt and loke þat it be not stondyng. [1] vide no. 104. qu. for to make flaumpeyns. c. xiii. take clene pork and boile it tendre. þenne hewe it small and bray it smal in a morter. take fyges and boile hem tendre in smale ale. and bray hem and tendre chese þerwith. þenne waisthe hem in water & þene lyes [1] hem alle togider wit ayrenn, þenne take powdour of pepper. or els powdour marchannt & ayrenn and a porcioun of safroun and salt. þenne take blank sugur. eyrenn & flour & make a past wit a roller, þene make þerof smale pelettes [2]. & fry hem broun in clene grece & set hem asyde. þenne make of þat ooþer deel [3] of þat past long coffyns [4] & do þat comade [5] þerin. and close hem faire with a countoer [6], & pynche hem smale about. þanne kyt aboue foure oþer sex wayes, þanne take euy [7] of þat kuttyng up, & þenne colour it wit zolkes of ayrenn, and plannt hem thick, into the flaumpeyns above þat þou kuttest hem & set hem in an ovene and lat hem bake eselich [8]. and þanne serue hem forth. [1] lyer. mix. [2] pelettes. _pelotys_ ms. ed. no. 16. balls, pellets, from fr. _pelote_. [3] deel. deal, i.e. part, half. [4] coffyns. pies without lids. [5] comade. qu. [6] coutour. coverture, a lid. [7] euy. every. [8] eselich. easily, gently. for to make noumbles in lent. c. xiiii. take the blode of pykes oþer of conger and nyme [1] the paunches of pykes. of conger and of grete code lyng [2], & boile hem tendre & mynce hem smale & do hem in þat blode. take crustes of white brede & strayne it thurgh a cloth. þenne take oynouns iboiled and mynced. take peper and safroun. wyne. vynegur aysell [3] oþer alegur & do þerto & serue forth. [1] nyme. take. perpetually used in ms. ed. from sax. niman. [2] code lyng. if a codling be a _small cod_, as we now understand it, _great codling_ seems a contradiction in terms. [3] aysell. eisel, vinegar. littleton. for to make chawdon [1] for lent. c. xv. take blode of gurnardes and congur & þe paunch of gurnardes and boile hem tendre & mynce hem smale, and make a lyre of white crustes and oynouns ymynced, bray it in a morter & þanne boile it togyder til it be stondyng. þenne take vynegur oþ aysell & safroun & put it þerto and serue it forth. [1] chawdoun. v. gloss. furmente with porpeys. c. xvi. take clene whete and bete it small in a morter and fanne out clene the doust, þenne waisthe it clene and boile it tyl it be tendre and broun. þanne take the secunde mylk of almaundes & do þerto. boile hem togidur til it be stondyng, and take þe first mylke & alye it up wiþ a penne [1]. take up the porpays out of the furmente & leshe hem in a dishe with hoot water. & do safroun to þe furmente. and if the porpays be salt. seeþ it by hym self, and serue it forth. [1] penne. feather, or pin. ms. ed. 28. fylettes in galytyne. c. xvii. take pork, and rost it tyl the blode be tryed out & þe broth [1]. take crustes of brede and bray hem in a morter, an drawe hem thurgh a cloth with þe broth, þenne take oynouns an leshe hem on brede an do to the broth. þanne take pork, and leshe it clene with a dressyng knyf and cast it into þe pot broth, & lat it boile til it be more tendre. þanne take þat lyour þerto. þanne take a porcion of peper and saundres & do þerto. þanne take parsel & ysope & mynce it smale & do þerto. þanne take rede wyne oþer white grece & raysouns & do þerto. & lat it boile a lytel. [1] the broth. supposed to be prepared beforehand. veel in buknade [1]. c. xviii. take fayr veel and kyt it in smale pecys and boile it tendre in fyne broth oþer in water. þanne take white brede oþer wastel [2], and drawe þerof a white ... lyour wiþ fyne broth, and do þe lyour to the veel, & do safroun þerto, þanne take parsel & bray it in a morter & the juys [3] þerof do þerto, and þanne is þis half zelow & half grene. þanne take a porcioun of wyne & powdour marchant & do þerto and lat it boile wele, and do þerto a litel of [4] vynegur. & serue forth. [1] buknade. v. no. 17. [2] wastel. v. gloss. [3] juys. juice. [4] litel of vynegur. we say, _a little vinegar_, omitting _of_. so 152, _a lytull of lard_. sooles in cynee [1]. c. xix. take sooles and hylde hem, seeþ hem in water, smyte hem on pecys and take away the fynnes. take oynouns iboiled & grynde the fynnes þerwith and brede. drawe it up with the self broth. do þerto powdour fort, safroun & hony clarified with salt, seeþ it alle yfere. broile the sooles & messe it in dysshes & lay the sewe above. & serue forth. [1] cynee. _cyney_, contents, both here and no. 120. 123. see before, no. 25. tenches in cynee. xx.vi. take tenches and smyte hem to pecys, fry hem, drawe a lyour of raysouns coraunce witþ wyne and water, do þerto hool raisouns & powdour of gyngur of clowes of canel of peper do the tenches þerto & seeþ hem with sugur cypre & salt. & messe forth. oysters in gravey. xx.vi. i. schyl [1] oysters and seeþ hem in wyne and in hare [2] own broth. cole the broth thurgh a cloth. take almandes blaunched, grynde hem and drawe hem up with the self broth. & alye it wiþ flour of rys. and do the oysters þerinne, cast in powdour of gyngur, sugur, macys. seeþ it not to stondyng and serue forth. [1] shell, take of the shells. [2] hare. their. _her_. no. 123. chaucer. muskels [1] in brewet. xx.vi. ii. take muskels, pyke hem, seeþ hem with the owne broth, make a lyour of crustes [2] & vynegur do in oynouns mynced. & cast the muskels þerto & seeþ it. & do þerto powdour with a lytel salt & safron the samewise make of oysters. [1] muskles. _muskels_ below, and the contents. muscles. [2] crustes. i.e. of bread. oysters in cynee. xx.vi. iii. take oysters parboile hem in her owne broth, make a lyour of crustes of brede & drawe it up wiþ the broth and vynegur mynce oynouns & do þerto with erbes. & cast the oysters þerinne. boile it. & do þerto powdour fort & salt. & messe it forth. cawdel of muskels. xx.vi. iiii. take and seeþ muskels, pyke hem clene, and waisshe hem clene in wyne. take almandes & bray hem. take somme of the muskels and grynde hem. & some hewe smale, drawe the muskels yground with the self broth. wryng the almaundes with faire water. do alle þise togider. do þerto verious and vyneger. take whyte of lekes & parboile hem wel. wryng oute the water and hewe hem smale. cast oile þerto with oynouns parboiled & mynced smale do þerto powdour fort, safroun and salt. a lytel seeþ it not to to [1] stondyng & messe it forth. [1] to to, i. e. too too. vide no. 17. mortrews of fyssh. xx.vi. v. take codlyng, haddok, oþ hake and lynours with the rawnes [1] and seeþ it wel in water. pyke out þe bones, grynde smale the fysshe, drawe a lyour of almaundes & brede with the self broth. and do the fysshe grounden þerto. and seeþ it and do þerto powdour fort, safroun and salt, and make it stondyng. [1] rawnes. roes. laumpreys in galyntyne. xx.vi. vi. take laumpreys and sle [1] hem with vynegur oþer with white wyne & salt, scalde hem in water. slyt hem a litel at þer nauel.... & rest a litel at the nauel. take out the guttes at the ende. kepe wele the blode. put the laumprey on a spyt. roost hym & kepe wel the grece. grynde raysouns of coraunce. hym up [2] with vyneger. wyne. and crustes of brede. do þerto powdour of gyngur. of galyngale [3]. flour of canel. powdour of clowes, and do þerto raisouns of coraunce hoole. with þe blode & þe grece. seeþ it & salt it, boile it not to stondyng, take up the laumprey do hym in a chargeour [4], & lay þe sewe onoward, & serue hym forth. [1] sle. slay, kill. [2] hym up. a word seems omitted; _drawe_ or _lye_. [3] of galyngale, i. e. powder. v. no. 101. [4] chargeour. charger or dish. v. no. 127. laumprouns in galyntyne. xx.vi. vii. take lamprouns and scalde hem. seeþ hem, meng powdour galyngale and some of the broth togyder & boile it & do þerto powdour of gyngur & salt. take the laumprouns & boile hem & lay hem in dysshes. & lay the sewe above. & serue fort. loseyns [1] in fyssh day. xx.vi. viii. take almandes unblaunched and waisthe hem clene, drawe hem up with water. seeþ þe mylke & alye it up with loseyns. cast þerto safroun. sugur. & salt & messe it forth with colyandre in confyt rede, & serue it forth. [1] loseyns. _losyns_, contents. sowper of galyntyne [1]. xx.vi. ix. take powdour of galyngale with sugur and salt and boile it yfere. take brede ytosted. and lay the sewe onoward. and serue it forth. [1] sowpes of galyntyne. contents has _in_, recte. _sowpes_ means sops. sobre sawse. xx.vi. x. take raysouns, grynde hem with crustes of brede; and drawe it up with wyne. do þerto gode powdours and salt. and seeþ it. fry roches, looches, sool, oþer ooþer gode fyssh, cast þe sewe above, & serue it forth. cold brewet. xx.vi. xi. take crome [1] of almaundes. dry it in a cloth. and whan it is dryed do it in a vessel, do þerto salt, sugur, and white powdour of gyngur and juys of fenel and wyne. and lat it wel stonde. lay full & messe & dresse it forth. [1] crome. crumb, pulp. peeres [1] in confyt. xx.vi. xii. take peeres and pare hem clene. take gode rede wyne & mulberes [2] oþer saundres and seeþ þe peeres þerin & whan þei buth ysode, take hem up, make a syryp of wyne greke. oþer vernage [3] with blaunche powdour oþer white sugur and powdour gyngur & do the peres þerin. seeþ it a lytel & messe it forth. [1] peeres. pears. [2] mulberes. mulberries, for colouring. [3] vernage. vernaccia, a sort of italian white wine. v. gloss. egurdouce [1] of fysshe. xx.vi. xiii. take loches oþer tenches oþer solys smyte hem on pecys. fry hem in oyle. take half wyne half vynegur and sugur & make a siryp. do þerto oynouns icorue [2] raisouns coraunce. and grete raysouns. do þerto hole spices. gode powdours and salt. messe þe fyssh & lay þe sewe aboue and serue forth. [1] egurdouce. vide gloss. [2] icorue, icorven. cut. v. gloss. colde brewet. xx.vi. xiiii. take almaundes and grynde hem. take the tweydel [1] of wyne oþer the þriddell of vynegur. drawe up the almaundes þerwith. take anys sugur & branches of fenel grene a fewe. & drawe hem up togyder with þer mylke take poudour of canell. of gyngur. clowes. & maces hoole. take kydde oþer chikenns oþer flessh. & choppe hem small and seeþ hem. take all þis flessh whan it is sodenn & lay it in a clene vessel & boile þer sewe & cast þerto salt. þenne cast al þis in þe pot with flesh. &ter. [2] [1] tweydel. two parts. [2] &ter. i. e. serue forth. pevorat [1] for veel and venysoun. xx.vi. xv. take brede & fry it in grece. drawe it up with broth and vynegur, take þerto powdour of peper & salt and sette it on the fyre. boile it and messe it forth. [1] pevorat. peverade, from the pepper of which it is principally composed. sawse [2] blaunche for capouns ysode. xx.vi. xvi. take almandes blaunched and grynd hem al to doust. temper it up with verions and powdour or gyngyner and messe it forth. [2] sawse. _sawce_, contents. as no. 137. sawse noyre for capouns yrosted. xx.vi. xvii. take the lyuer of capons and roost it wel. take anyse and greynes de parys [1]. gyngur. canel. & a lytill crust of brede and grinde it smale. and grynde it up with verions. and witþ grece of capouns. boyle it and serue it forth. [1] de parys. of paradise. v. pref. galyntyne [1]. xx.vi. xviii. take crustes of brede and grynde hem smale, do þerto powdour of galyngale, of canel, of gyngyner and salt it, tempre it with vynegur and drawe it up þurgh a straynour & messe it forth. [1] galyntyne. galentyne, contents. gyngener [1]. xx.vi. xix. take payndemayn and pare it clene and funde it in vinegur, grynde it and temper it wiþ vynegur, and with powdour gyngur and salt, drawe it thurgh a straynour. and serue forth. [1] gyngener. from the powder of ginger therein used. verde [1] sawse. xx.vii. take parsel. mynt. garlek. a litul serpell [2] and sawge, a litul canel. gyngur. piper. wyne. brede. vynegur & salt grynde it smal with safroun & messe it forth. [1] verde. it has the sound of _green-sauce_, but as there is no sorel in it, it is so named from the other herbs. [2] a litul serpell. wild thyme. sawse noyre for malard. xx.vii. i. take brede and blode iboiled. and grynde it and drawe it thurgh a cloth with vynegur, do þerto powdour of gyngur ad of peper. & þe grece of the maulard. salt it. boile it wel and serue it forth. cawdel for gees. xx.vii. ii. take garlec and grynde it smale. safroun and flour þerwith & salt. and temper it up with cowe mylke. and seeþ it wel and serue it forth. chawdoun [1] for swannes xx.vii. iii. take þe lyuer and þe offall [2] of the swannes & do it to seeþ in gode broth. take it up. take out þe bonys. take & hewe the flessh smale. make a lyour of crustes of brede & of þe blode of þe swan ysoden. & do þerto powdour of clowes & of piper & of wyne & salt, & seeþ it & cast þe flessh þerto ihewed. and messe it forth with þe swan. [1] chawdoun. v. gloss. [2] offall. _exta_, gibles. sawse camelyne [1]. xx.vii. iiii. take raysouns of coraunce. & kyrnels of notys. & crustes of brede & powdour of gyngur clowes flour of canel. bray it [2] wel togyder and do it þerto. salt it, temper it up with vynegur. and serue it forth. [1] camelyne. qu. if _canelyne_ from the _fluor of canel_? [2] bray. bray. lumbard mustard. xx.vii. v. take mustard seed and waishe it & drye it in an ovene, grynde it drye. farse it thurgh a farse. clarifie hony with wyne & vynegur & stere it wel togedrer and make it thikke ynowz. & whan þou wilt spende þerof make it tnynne with wyne. nota. xx.vii. vi. cranes [1] and herouns shul be armed [2] with lardes of swyne. and eten with gyngur. [1] cranes. a dish frequent formerly at great tables. archæologia, ii. p. 171. mentioned with herons, as here, ms. ed. 3. where the same recipe occurs. et v. lel. coll. iv. p. 226. vi. p. 38. rabelais, iv. c. 59. e. of devon's feast. [2] armed. ms. ed. no. 3. has _enarmed_, as may be read there. _enarmed_, however, in lel. collect. iv. p. 225. means, decorated with coate of arms. sheldes of brawn are there _in armor_, p. 226. however, there is such a word as _enorned_. leland, p. 280. 285. 297. which approaches nearer. nota. xx.vii. vii. pokok and partruch shul be parboiled. lardid and rosted. and eten with gyngeuer. fry blaunched. xx.vii. viii. take almandes blaunched and grynde hem al to doust, do þise in a thynne foile. close it þerinnne fast. and fry it in oile. clarifie hony with wyne. & bake it þerwith. frytour of pasternakes of apples [1]. xx.vii. ix. take skyrwater and pasternakes and apples, & parboile hem, make a batour of flour and ayrenn, cast þerto ale. safroun & salt. wete hem in þe batour and frye hem in oile or in grece. do þerto almaund mylk. & serue it forth. [1] frytour, &c. contents has only, _frytours of pasternakes_. n. b. _frytour_ is _fritter_. frytour of mylke. xx.vii. x. take of cruddes [1] and presse out þe wheyze [2]. do þerto sum whyte of ayrenn. fry hem. do þerto. & lay on sugur and messe forth. [1] cruddes. curds, per metathesin. [2] wheyze. whey. frytour of erbes. xx.vii. xi. take gode erbys. grynde hem and medle [1] hem with flour and water & a lytel zest and salt, and frye hem in oyle. and ete hem with clere hony. [1] medle. mix. rasyols [1]. xx.vii. xii. take swyne lyuoers and seeþ hem wel. take brede & grate it. and take zolkes of ayrenn. & make hit sowple [2] and do þerto a lytull of lard carnoun lyche a dee [3]. chese gratyd [4] & whyte grece. powdour douce & of gyngur & wynde it to balles [5] as grete as apples. take þe calle of þe swyne & cast euere [6] by hym self þerin. make a crust in a trape [7]. and lay þe ball þerin & bake it. and whan þey buth ynowz: put þerin a layour of ayrenn with powdour fort and safroun. and serue it forth. [1] rasyols. rasiowls, contents. qu. the etymen. [2] sowple. supple. [3] carnoun lyche a dee. cut like dice, diced. fr. _de_; singular of _dice_. [4] gratyd. grated. _igrated_, no. 153. [5] wynde it to balles, make it into balls. [6] euere. each. [7] trape. pan, or dish. french. whyte mylates [1]. xx.vii. xiii. take ayrenn and wryng hem thurgh a cloth. take powdour fort, brede igrated, & safroun, & cast þerto a gode quantite of vynegur with a litull salt, medle all yfere. make a foile in a trape & bake it wel þerinne. and serue it forth. [1] mylates. contents, _milates_; but 155 as here. qu. crustardes [1] of flessh. xx.vii. xiiii. take peiouns [2], chykens, and smale briddes smyte hem in gobettes. & seeþ hem alle ifere in god broþ wiþ veriaws [3] do þerto safroun, make a crust in a trape. and pynche it. & cowche þe flessh þerinne. & cast þerinne raisouns coraunce. powdour douce and salt. breke ayrenn and wryng hem thurgh a cloth & swyng þe sewe of þe stewe þerwith and helde it [4] uppon the flessh. couere it & bake it wel. and serue it forth. [1] crustards. pies. [2] peiouns. pigeons. v. ad no. 48. [3] veriaws. verjuice. [4] helde it. pour, cast. mylates of pork. xx.vii. xv. hewe pork al to pecys and medle it with ayrenn & chese igrated. do þerto powdour fort safroun & pyneres [1] with salt, make a crust in a trape, bake it wel þerinne, and serue it forth. [1] pyneres. vide pref. crustardes of fysshe. xx.vii. xvi. take loches, laumprouns, and eelis. smyte hem on pecys, and stewe hem wiþ almaund mylke and verions, frye the loches in oile as tofore. and lay þe fissh þerinne. cast þeron powdour fort powdour douce. with raysons coraunce & prunes damysyns. take galyntyn and þe sewe þerinne, and swyng it togyder and cast in the trape. & bake it and serue it forth. crustardes of eerbis [1] on fyssh day. xx.vii. xvii. take gode eerbys and grynde hem smale with wallenotes pyked clene. a grete portioun. lye it up almost wiþ as myche verions as water. seeþ it wel with powdour and safroun withoute salt. make a crust in a trape and do þe fyssh þerinne unstewed wiþ a litel oile & gode powdour. whan it is half ybake do þe sewe þerto & bake it up. if þou wilt make it clere of fyssh seeþ ayrenn harde. & take out þe zolkes & grinde hem with gode powdours. and alye it up with gode stewes [2] and serue it forth. [1] erbis. rather _erbis and fissh_. [2] stewes. v. no. 170. lesshes [1] fryed in lenton [2]. xx.vii. xviii. drawe a thick almaunde mylke wiþ water. take dates and pyke hem clene with apples and peeres & mynce hem with prunes damysyns. take out þe stones out of þe prunes. & kerue the prunes a two. do þerto raisouns sugur. flour of canel. hoole macys and clowes. gode powdours & salt. colour hem up with saundres. meng þise with oile, make a coffyn as þou didest bifore & do þis fars [3] þerin. and bake it wel and serue it forth. [1] leshes. v. leche lumbard in gloss. [2] lenton. lentoun, contents, i. e. lent. [3] fars. vide gloss. wastels yfarced. xx.vii. xix. take a wastel and hewe out þe crummes. take ayrenn & shepis talow & þe crummes of þe same wastell powdour fort & salt with safroun and raisouns coraunce. & medle alle þise yfere & do it in þe wastel. close it & bynde it fast togidre. and seeþ it wel. sawge yfarced. xx.viii. take sawge. grynde it and temper it up with ayrenn. a saweyster [1] & kerf hym to gobettes and cast it in a possynet. and do þerwiþ grece & frye it. whan it is fryed ynowz cast þerto sawge with ayren make it not to harde. cast þerto powdour douce, messe it forth. if it be in ymber day; take sauge butter & ayrenn. and lat it stonde wel by þe sause [2], & serue it forth. [1] saweyster. qu. [2] stonde wel by the sause. become thick with the sawce. sawgeat [1]. xx.viii. i. take pork and seeþ it wel and grinde it smale and medle it wiþ ayren & brede. ygrated. do þerto powdour fort and safroun with pyner & salt. take & close litull balles in foiles [2] of sawge. wete it with a batour of ayren & fry it. & serue it forth. [1] sawgeat. so named from the sage, or _sawge_ [2] foiles. leaves. cryspes [1]. xx.viii. ii. take flour of pandemayn and medle it with white grece ouer the fyrer in a chawfour [2] and do the batour þerto queyntlich [3] þurgh þy fyngours. or thurgh a skymour. and lat it a litul [4] quayle [5] a litell so þe þer be hool þerinne. and if þer wilt colour it wiþ alkenet yfoundyt. take hem up & cast þerinne sugur, and serue hem forth. [1] cryspes. ms. ed. no. 26. _cryppys_, meaning _crisps_, chaucer having _crips_, by transposition, for _crisp_. in kent _p_ is commonly put before the _s_, as _haps_ is _hasp_, _waps_ is _wasp_. v. junius. v. _happs_, and _haspe_, and _wasp_. [2] chawfour. chaffing dish. [3] quentlich'. nicely. [4] a litul. dele. [5] quayle. an cool? cryspels. xx.viii. iii. take and make a foile of gode past as thynne as paper. kerue it out & fry it in oile. oþer in þe [1] grece and þe remnaunt [2], take hony clarified and flaunne [3] þerwith, alye hem up and serue hem forth. [1] þe grece. dele _the_. [2] þe remnant, i. e. as for the remnant. [3] flaunne. french _flau_, custard. tartee. xx.viii. iiii. take pork ysode. hewe it & bray it. do þerto ayrenn. raisouns sugur and powdour of gyngur. powdour douce. and smale briddes þeramong & white grece. take prunes, safroun. & salt, and make a crust in a trape & do þer fars [1] þerin. & bake it wel & serue it forth. [1] þer fars, r. þe fars. tart in ymbre [1] day. xx.viii. v. take and parboile oynouns presse out þe water & hewe hem smale. take brede & bray it in a morter. and temper it up with ayren. do þerto butter, safroun and salt. & raisouns corauns. & a litel sugur with powdour douce. and bake it in a trape. & serue it forth. [1] ymbre. ember. tart de bry [1]. xx.viii. vi. take a crust ynche depe in a trape. take zolkes of ayren rawe & chese ruayn [2]. & medle it & þe zolkes togyder. and do þerto powdour gyngur. sugur. safroun. and salt. do it in a trape, bake it and serue it forth. [1] de bry. qu. _brie_, the country. [2] chese ruayn. qu. of roisen. v. ad 49. tart de brymlent [1]. xx.viii. vii. take fyges & raysouns. & waisshe hem in wyne. and grinde hem smale with apples & peres clene ypiked. take hem up and cast hem in a pot wiþ wyne and sugur. take salwar salmoun [2] ysode. oþer codlyng, oþer haddok, & bray hem smal. & do þerto white powdours & hool spices. & salt. and seeþ it. and whanne it is sode ynowz. take it up and do it in a vessel and lat it kele. make a coffyn an ynche depe & do þe fars þerin. plaunt it boue [3] with prunes and damysyns. take þe stones out, and wiþ dates quarte rede [4] dand piked clene. and couere the coffyn, and bake it wel, and serue it forth. [1] brymlent. perhaps midlent or high lent. _bryme_, in cotgrave, is the _midst_ of winter. the fare is certainly lenten. a.s. [anglo saxon: bryme]. solennis, or beginning of lent, from a.s. [anglo-saxon: brymm], ora, margo. yet, after all, it may be a mistake for _prymlent_. [2] salwar samoun. v. ad no. 98. [3] plaunt it above. stick it _above_, or on the top. [4] quarte red. quartered. tartes of flesh [1]. xx.viii. viii. take pork ysode and grynde it smale. tarde [2] harde eyrenn isode & ygrounde and do þerto with chese ygronde. take gode powdour and hool spices, sugur, safroun, and salt & do þerto. make a coffyn as to feel sayde [3] & do þis þerinne, & plaunt it with smale briddes istyned & counyng. & hewe hem to smale gobettes & bake it as tofore. & serue it forth. [1] tartes of flesh. so we have _tarte poleyn_, lel. coll. iv. p. 226. i.e. of pullen, or poultry. [2] tarde, r. _take_. for see no. 169. [3] to feel sayde. perhaps, _to hold the same_. tartletes. xx.viii. ix. take veel ysode and grinde it smale. take harde eyrenn isode and yground & do þerto with prunes hoole [1]. dates. icorue. pynes and raisouns coraunce. hool spices & powdour. sugur. salt, and make a litell coffyn and do þis fars þerinne. & bake it & serue it forth. [1] hoole, whole. tartes of fysshe. xx.viii. x. take eelys and samoun and smyte hem on pecys. & stewe it [1] in almaund mylke and verious. drawe up on almaund mylk wiþ þe stewe. pyke out the bones clene of þe fyssh. and save þe myddell pece hoole of þe eelys & grinde þat ooþer fissh smale. and do þerto powdour, sugur, & salt and grated brede. & fors þe eelys þerwith þerer as [2] þe bonys were medle þe ooþer dele of the fars & þe mylk togider. and colour it with saundres. make a crust in a trape as before. and bake it þerin and serue it forth. [1] it. rather hem, i.e. them. [2] þereras. where. v. no. 177. sambocade [1]. xx.viii. xi. take and make a crust in a trape. & take a cruddes and wryng out þe wheyze. and drawe hem þurgh a straynour and put in þe straynour crustes. do þerto sugur the þridde part & somdel [2] whyte of ayrenn. & shake þerin blomes of elren [3]. & bake it up with curose [4] & messe it forth. [1] sambucade. as made of the _sambucus_, or elder. [2] somdel. some. [3] blom of elren. elder flowers. [4] curose. erbolates [1]. xx.viii. xii. take parsel, myntes [2], sauerey, & sauge, tansey, veruayn, clarry, rewe, ditayn, fenel, southrenwode, hewe hem & grinde hem smale, medle hem up with ayrenn. do butter in a trape. & do þe fars þerto. & bake it & messe it forth. [1] erbolat, i.e. herbolade, a confection of herbs. [2] myntes, mint. nysebek [1]. xx.viii. xiii. take þere þridde part of sowre dokkes and flour þerto. & bete it togeder tyl it be as towh as eny lyme. cast þerto salt. & do it in a disshe holke [2] in þe bothom, and let it out wiþ þy finger queynchche [3] in a chowfer [4] wiþ oile. & frye it wel. and whan it is ynowhz: take it out and cast þerto suger &c. [1] nysebek. qu. [2] holke. qu. hollow. [3] queynchche. an _queyntlich'_, as no. 162. [4] chowfer. chaffing dish, as no. 162. for to make pomme dorryle [1] and oþer þnges. xx.viii. xiiii. take þe lire of pork rawe. and grynde it smale. medle it up wiþ powdre fort, safroun, and salt, and do þerto raisouns of coraunce, make balles þerof. and wete it wele in white of ayrenn. & do it to seeþ in boillyng water. take hem up and put hem on a spyt. rost hem wel and take parsel ygronde and wryng it up with ayren & a party of flour. and lat erne [2] aboute þe spyt. and if þou wilt, take for parsel safroun, and serue it forth. [1] pomme dorryle. contents, _pom dorryes_, rectè, for ms. ed. 42, has _pommedorry_; and see no. 177. so named from the _balls_ and _the gilding_. "pommes dorées, golden apples." cotgrave. _poundorroye_. ms. ed. 58; but vide _dorry_ in gloss. [2] erne. qu. cotagres [1]. xx.viii. xv. take and make þe self fars [2]. but do þerto pynes and sugur. take an hole rowsted cok, pulle hym [3] & hylde [4] hym al togyder saue þe legges. take a pigg and hilde [5] hym fro þe myddes dounward, fylle him ful of þe fars & sowe hym fast togider. do hym in a panne & seeþ hym wel. and whan þei bene isode: do hem on a spyt & rost it wele. colour it with zolkes of ayren and safroun, lay þeron foyles [6] of gold and of siluer. and serue hit forth. [1] cotagres. this is a sumptuous dish. perhaps we should read _cokagres_, from the _cock_ and _grees_, or wild pig, therein used. v. _vyne grace_ in gloss. [2] self fars. same as preceding recipe. [3] pulle hym, i.e. in pieces. [4] hylde. cast. [5] hilde. skin. [6] foyles. leaves; of laurel or bay, suppose; gilt and silvered for ornament. hert rowee [1]. xx.viii. xvi. take þer mawe of þe grete swyne. and fyfe oþer sex of pigges mawe. fyll hem full of þe self fars. & sowe hem fast, perboile hem. take hem up & make smale prews [2] of gode past and frye hem. take þese prews yfryed & seeþ [3] hem þicke in þe mawes on þe fars made after [4] an urchoun withoute legges. put hem on a spyt & roost hem & colour hem with safroun & messe hem forth. [1] hert rowee. contents, _hart rows_; perhaps from _heart_. [2] prews. qu. v. in gloss. [3] seeþ. there is a fault here; it means stick. [4] after, i. e. like. potews [1]. xx.viii. xvii. take pottes of erþe lytell of half a quart and fyll hem full of fars of pomme dorryes [2]. oþer make with þyn honde. oþer in a moolde pottes of þe self fars. put hem in water & seeþ hem up wel. and whan þey buth ynowz. breke þe pottes of erþe & do þe fars on þe spyt & rost hem wel. and whan þei buth yrosted. colour hem as pomme dorryes. make of litull prewes [3] gode past, frye hem oþer rost hem wel in grece. & make þerof eerys [4] to pottes & colour it. and make rosys [5] of gode past, & frye hem, & put þe steles [6] in þe hole þer [7] þe spyt was. & colour it with whyte. oþer rede. & serue it forth. [1] potews. probably from the _pots_ employed. [2] pomme dorryes. vide ad no. 174. [3] prewes. v. ad 176. [4] eerys. ears _for_ the pots. v. 185. [5] rosys. roses. [6] sleles. stalks. [7] þer. there, i.e. where. v. 170. sachus [1]. xx.viii. xviii. take smale sachellis of canuas and fille hem full of þe same fars [2] & seeþ hem. and whan þey buth ynowz take of the canvas, rost hem & colour hem &c. [1] sachus. i suppose _sacks_. [2] same fars. viz. as 174. bursews [1]. xx.viii. xix. take pork, seeþ it and grynde it smale wiþ sodden ayren. do þerto gode powdours and hole spices and salt with sugur. make þerof smale balles, and cast hem in a batour [2] of ayren. & wete hem in flour. and frye hem in grece as frytours [3]. and serue hem forth. [1] bursews. different from _bursen_ in no. 11; therefore qu. etymon. [2] batour. batter. [3] frytours. fritters. spynoches [1] yfryed. xx.ix. take spynoches. perboile hem in seþyng water. take hem up and presse . . . out of þe water [2] and hem [3] in two. frye hem in oile clene. & do þerro powdour. & serue forth. [1] spynoches. spinage, which we use in the singular. [2] out of the water. dele _of_; or it may mean, _when out of the water_. [3] hem r. _hewe_. benes yfryed. xx.ix. i. take benes and seeþ hem almost til þey bersten. take and wryng out þer water clene. do þerto oynouns ysode and ymynced. and garlec þerwith. frye hem in oile. oþer in grece. & do þerto powdour douce. & serue it forth. rysshews [1] of fruyt. xx.ix. ii. take fyges and raisouns. pyke hem and waisshe hem in wyne. grynde hem wiþ apples and peeres. ypared and ypiked clene. do þerto gode powdours. and hole spices. make bailes þerof. fryen in oile and serue hem forth. [1] rysshews. _russhewses_, contents. qu. daryols [1]. xx.ix. iii. take creme of cowe mylke. oþer of almandes. do þerto ayren with sugur, safroun, and salt, medle it yfere. do it in a coffyn. of ii. ynche depe. bake it wel and serue it forth, [1] daryols. qu. flaumpens [1]. xx.ix. iiii. take fat pork ysode. pyke it clene. grynde it smale. grynde chese & do þerto. wiþ sugur and gode powdours. make a coffyn of an ynche depe. and do þis fars þerin. make a thynne foile of gode past & kerue out þeroff smale poyntes [2]. frye hem in fars [3]. & bake it up &c. [1] flaumpeyns. _flaumpens_, contents. v. no. 113. [2] points, seems the same as _prews_, no. 176. [3] in fars, f. _in the fars_; and yet the fars is disposed of before; ergo quære. chewetes [1] on flesshe day. xx.ix. v. take þer lire of pork and kerue it al to pecys. and hennes þerwith and do it in a panne and frye it & make a coffyn as to [2] a pye smale & do þerinne. & do þeruppon zolkes of ayrenn. harde. powdour of gyngur and salt, couere it & fry it in grece. oþer bake it wel and serue it forth. [1] chewets. v. 186. [2] as to, as for. v. no. 177. chewetes on fyssh day. xx.ix. vi. take turbut. haddok. codlyng. and hake. and seeþ it. grynde it smale. and do þerto dates. ygrounden. raysouns pynes. gode powdoer and salt. make a coffyn as tofore saide. close þis þerin. and frye it in oile. oþer stue it in gyngur. sugur. oþer in wyne. oþer bake it. & serue forth. hastletes [1] of fruyt. xx.ix. vii. take fyges iquarterid [2]. raysouns hool dates and almandes hoole. and ryne [3] hem on a spyt and roost hem. and endore [4] hem as pomme dorryes & serue hem forth. [1] hastletes. _hasteletes_, contents. [2] iquarterid. iquartered. [3] ryne. run. [4] endore. endorse, ms. ed. 42. ii. 6. v. ad 147. comadore [1]. xx.ix. vii. take fyges and raisouns. pyke hem and waisshe hem clene, skalde hem in wyne. grynde hem right smale, cast sugur in þe self wyne. and founde it togyder. drawe it up thurgh a straynour. & alye up þe fruyt þerwith. take gode peerys and apples. pare hem and take þe best, grynde hem smale and cast þerto. set a pot on þe fuyrer [2] wiþ oyle and cast alle þise þynges þerinne. and stere it warliche, and kepe it wel fro brennyng. and whan it is fyned cast þerto powdours of gynger of canel. of galyngale. hool clowes flour of canel. & macys hoole. cast þerto pynes a litel fryed in oile & salt, and whan it is ynowz fyned: take it up and do it in a vessel & lat it kele. and whan it is colde: kerue out with a knyf smale pecys of þe gretnesse & of þe length of a litel fyngur. & close it fast in gode past. & frye hen in oile. & serue forth. [1] comadore. qu. [2] fuyr. fire. chastletes [1], xx.ix. ix. take and make a foyle of gode past with a roller of a foot brode. & lyngur[2] by cumpas. make iiii coffyns of þe self past uppon þe rolleres þe gretnesse of þe smale of þyn arme. of vi ynche depnesse. make þe gretust [3] in þe myddell. fasten þe foile in þe mouth upwarde. & fasten þee [4] oþere foure in euery syde. kerue out keyntlich kyrnels [5] above in þe manere of bataiwyng [6] and drye hem harde in an ovene. oþer in þe sunne. in þe myddel coffyn do a fars of pork with gode pork & ayrenn rawe wiþ salt. & colour it wiþ safroun and do in anoþer creme of almandes. and helde [7] it in anoþer [8] creme of cowe mylke with ayrenn. colour it with saundres. anoþur manur. fars of fygur. of raysouns. of apples. of peeres. & holde it in broun [9]. anoþer manere. do fars as to frytours blanched. and colour it with grene. put þis to þe ovene & bake it wel. & serue it forth with ew ardaunt [10]. [1] chastelets. litlle castles, as is evident from the kernelling and the battlements mentioned. _castles of jelly templewise made._ lel. coll. iv. p. 227. [2] lynger. longer. [3] gretust. greatest. [4] þee, i. e. thou. [5] kyrnels. battlements. v. gloss. keyntlich, quaintly, curiously. v. gloss. [6] bataiwyng. embatteling. [7] helde. put, cast. [8] another. as the middle one and only two more are provided for, the two remaining were to be filled, i presume, in the same manner alternately. [9] holde it broun. make it brown. [10] ew ardaunt. hot water. _eau_, water; anciently written _eue_. for to make ii. [1] pecys of flessh to fasten togyder. xx.ix. x. take a pece of fressh flesh and do it in a pot for to seeþ. or take a pece of fressh flessh and kerue it al to gobetes. do it in a pot to seeþ. & take þe wose [2] of comfery & put it in þe pot to þe flessh & it shal fasten anon, & so serue it forth. [1] ii. _twey_, contents. [2] wose. roots of comfrey are of a very glutinous nature. quincy. dispens. p. 100. _wose_ is a.s. [anglo-saxon: paer], _humour_, juice. see junius. v. _wos_, and mr. strype's life of stow, p. viii. pur fait ypocras [1]. xx.ix. xi. treys unces de canett. & iii unces de gyngeuer. spykenard de spayn le pays dun denerer [2], garyngale [3]. clowes, gylofre. poeurer long [4], noiez mugadez [5]. maziozame [6] cardemonij [7] de chescun i. quart' douce [8] grayne & [9] de paradys stour de queynel [10] de chescun dim [11] unce de toutes, soit fait powdour &c. [1] pur fait ypocras. id est, _pour faire ypocras_; a whole pipe of which was provided for archbishop nevill's feast about a.d. 1466, so that it was in vast request formerly. [2] le pays d'un denerer, i.e. _le pays d'un denier_. [3] garyngale, i.e. _galyngale_. [4] poeurer long, r. poiurer long, i.e. _poivre long_. [5] mugadez, r. muscadez; but q. as the french is _muguette_. nutmegs. [6] maziozame, r. _marjorame_. [7] cardemonij, r. _cardamones_. [8] quartdouce, r. _d'once._. five penny weights. [9] &. dele. [10] queynel. perhaps _canell_; but qu. as that is named before. [11] dim. dimid. for to make blank maunger [1]. xx.ix. xii. put rys in water al a nyzt and at morowe waisshe hem clene, afterward put hem to þe fyre fort [2] þey berst & not to myche. ssithen [3] take brawn of capouns, or of hennes. soden & drawe [4] it smale. after take mylke of almandes. and put in to þe ryys & boile it. and whan it is yboiled put in þe brawn & alye it þerwith. þat it be wel chargeaunt [5] and mung it fynelich' [6] wel þat it sit not [7] to þe pot. and whan it is ynowz & chargeaunt. do þerto sugur gode part, put þerin almandes. fryed in white grece. & dresse it forth. [1] blank maunger. very different from that we make now. v. 36. [2] fyre fort. strong fire. [3] ssithen. then. [4] drawe. make. [5] chargeaunt. stiff. so below, _ynowhz & chargeaunt_. v.193, 194. v. gloss. [6] mung it fynelich' wel. stir it very well. [7] sit not. adheres not, and thereby burns not. used now in the north. for to make blank desne [1]. xx.ix. xiii. take brawn of hennes or of capouns ysoden withoute þe skyn. & hewe hem as smale as þou may. & grinde hem in a morter. after take gode mylke of almandes & put þe brawn þerin. & stere it wel togyder & do hem to seeþ. & take flour of rys & amydoun & alay it. so þat it be chargeant. & do þerto sugur a gode party. & a party of white grece. and when it is put in disshes strewe uppon it blaunche powdour, and þenne put in blank desire and mawmenye [2] in disshes togider. and serue forth. [1] blank _desne_. _desire_, contents; rectè. v. gloss. the recipe in ms. ed. 29 is much the same with this. [2] mawmenye. see no. 194. for to make mawmenny [1]. xx.ix. xiiii. take þe chese and of flessh of capouns or of hennes. & hakke smale in a morter. take mylke of almandes with þe broth of freissh beef, oþer freissh flessh. & put the flessh in þe mylke oþer in the broth and set hem to þe frye [2]. & alye hem up with flour of ryse. or gastbon [3]. or amydoun. as chargeant as with blanke desire. & with zolkes of ayren and safroun for to make it zelow. and when it is dressit in disshes with blank desire styk above clowes de gilofre. & strewe powdour of galyngale above. and serue it forth. [1] mawmenny. _mawmoune_, contents. _maumene_ ms. ed. 29. 30. vide no. 193. see preface for a _fac-simile_ of this recipe. [2] þe frye. an fyre? [3] gastbon. qu. the pety peruaunt [1]. xx.ix. xv. take male marow [2]. hole parade [3] and kerue it rawe. powdour of gynger. zolkes of ayrenn, dates mynced. raisouns of coraunce. salt a lytel. & loke þat þou make þy past with zolkes of ayren. & þat no water come þerto. and forme þy coffyn. and make up þy past. [1] pety peruaunt. a paste; therefore, perhaps, _paty_; but qu. the latter word. [2] male marow. qu. [3] parade. qu. payn puff [1]. xx.ix. xvi. eodem modo fait payn puff. but make it more tendre þe past. and loke þe past be rounde of þe payn puf as a coffyn & a pye. [1] payn puff. contents has, _and the pete puant_. [1]xplicit. [1] a blank was left in the original for a large _e_. the following memorandum at the end of the roll. "antiquum hoc monumentum oblatum et missum est majestati vestræ vicesimo septimo die mensis julij, anno regno vestri fælicissimi vicesimo viij ab humilimo vestro subdito, vestræque, majestati fidelissimo edward stafford, hæres domus subversæ buckinghamiens." n.b. he was lord stafford and called edward. edw. d. of bucks beheaded 1521. 13 h. viii. | henry, restored in blood by h. viii.; and again 1 ed. vi. | edw. aged 21, 1592; born 1592. 21. ob. 1525. f. 1625. | 21 edw. b. 1600. --- 1571 born. ancient cookery. a.d. 1381. _hic incipiunt universa servicia tam de carnibus quam de pissibus_ [1]. i. for to make furmenty [1]. nym clene wete and bray it in a morter wel that the holys [2] gon al of and seyt [3] yt til it breste and nym yt up. and lat it kele [4] and nym fayre fresch broth and swete mylk of almandys or swete mylk of kyne and temper yt al. and nym the yolkys of eyryn [5]. boyle it a lityl and set yt adoun and messe yt forthe wyth fat venyson and fresh moton. [1] see again, no. i. of the second part of this treatise. [2] hulls. [3] miswritten for _seyth_ or _sethe_, i.e. seeth. [4] cool. [5] eggs. ii. for to make pise of almayne. nym wyte pisyn and wasch hem and seth hem a good wyle sithsyn wasch hem in golde [1] watyr unto the holys gon of alle in a pot and kever it wel that no breth passe owt and boyle hem ryzt wel and do therto god mylk of almandys and a party of flowr of ris and salt and safron and messe yt forthe. [1] cold. iii. cranys and herons schulle be euarund [1] wyth lardons of swyne and rostyd and etyn wyth gyngynyr. [1] perhaps _enarmed_, or _enorned_. see mr. brander's roll, no. 146. iv. pecokys and partrigchis schul ben yparboyld and lardyd and etyn wyth gyngenyr. v. morterelys [1]. nym hennyn and porke and seth hem togedere nym the lyre [2] of the hennyn and the porke and hakkyth finale and grynd hit al to dust and wyte bred therwyth and temper it wyth the selve broth and wyth heyryn and colure it with safroun and boyle it and disch it and cast theron powder of peper and of gyngynyr and serve it forthe. [1] v. mortrews in gloss. [2] flesh. vi. caponys inc oneys. schal be sodyn. nym the lyre and brek it smal in a morter and peper and wyte bred therwyth and temper it wyth ale and ley it wyth the capoun. nym hard sodyn eyryn and hewe the wyte smal and kaste thereto and nym the zolkys al hole and do hem in a dysch and boyle the capoun and colowre it wyth safroun and salt it and messe it forthe. vii. hennys [1] in bruet. schullyn be scaldyd and sodyn wyth porke and grynd pepyr and comyn bred and ale and temper it wyth the selve broth and boyle and colowre it wyth safroun and salt it and messe it forthe. [1] hens. viii. harys [1] in cmee [2]. schul be parboylyd and lardyd and rostid and nym onyons and myce hem rizt smal and fry hem in wyte gres and grynd peper bred and ale and the onions therto and coloure it wyth safroun and salt it and serve it forth. [1] hares. [1] perhaps _cinee_; for see no. 51. ix. haris in talbotays. schul be hewe in gobbettys and sodyn with al the blod nym bred piper and ale and grynd togedere and temper it with the selve broth and boyle it and salt it and serve it forthe. x. conynggys [1] in gravey. schul be sodyn and hakkyd in gobbettys and grynd gyngynyr galyngale and canel. and temper it up with god almand mylk and boyle it and nym macys and clowys and kest [2] therin and the conynggis also and salt hym [3] and serve it forthe. [1] rabbits. [2] cast. [3] _it_, or perhaps _hem_. xi. for to make a colys [1]. nym hennys and schald hem wel. and seth hem after and nym the lyre and hak yt smal and bray it with otyn grotys in a morter and with wyte bred and temper it up wyth the broth nym the grete bonys and grynd hem al to dust and kest hem al in the broth and mak it thorw a clothe and boyle it and serve it forthe. [1] cullis. v. preface. xii. for to make nombles [1]. nym the nomblys of the venysoun and wasch hem clene in water and salt hem and seth hem in tweye waterys grynd pepyr bred and ale and temper it wyth the secunde brothe and boyle it and hak the nomblys and do theryn and serve it forthe. [1] umbles. xiii. for to make blanche brewet de alyngyn. nym kedys [1] and chekenys and hew hem in morsellys and seth hem in almand mylk or in kyne mylke grynd gyngyner galingale and cast therto and boyle it and serve it forthe. [1] kids. xiv. for to make blomanger [1]. nym rys and lese hem and wasch hem clene and do thereto god almande mylk and seth hem tyl they al to brest and than lat hem kele and nym the lyre of the hennyn or of capouns and grynd hem smal kest therto wite grese and boyle it nym blanchyd almandys and safroun and set hem above in the dysche and serve yt forthe. [1] blanc-manger. see again, no. 33, 34. ii. no. 7. chaucer writes it _blankmanger_. xv. for to make afronchemoyle [1]. nym eyren wyth al the wyte and myse bred and schepys [2] talwe as gret as dyses [3] grynd peper and safroun and cast therto and do hit in the schepis wombe seth it wel and dresse it forthe of brode leches thynne. [1] frenchemulle d'un mouton. a sheeps call, or kell. cotgrave. junius, v. _moil_, says, "a french moile chaucero est cibus delicatior, a dish made of marrow and grated bread." [2] sheep's fat. [3] dice; square bits, or bits as big as dice. xvi. for to make brymeus. nym the tharmys [1] of a pygge and wasch hem clene in water and salt and seth hem wel and than hak hem smale and grynd pepyr and safroun bred and ale and boyle togedere nym wytys of eyrynn and knede it wyth flour and mak smal pelotys [2] and fry hem with wyte grees and do hem in disches above that othere mete and serve it forthe. [1] rops, guts, puddings [2] balls, pellets, from the french _pelote._ xvii. for to make appulmos [1]. nym appelyn and seth hem and lat hem kele and make hem thorw a clothe and on flesch dayes kast therto god fat breyt [2] of bef and god wyte grees and sugar and safroun and almande mylk on fysch dayes oyle de olyve and gode powdres [3] and serve it forthe. [1] see no. 35. [2] breth, i. e. broth. see no. 58. [3] spices ground small. see no. 27, 28. 35. 58. ii. no. 4. 17. or perhaps of galingale. ii. 20. 24. xviii. for to make a froys [1]. nym veel and seth it wel and hak it smal and grynd bred peper and safroun and do thereto and frye yt and presse it wel upon a bord and dresse yt forthe. [1] a fraise xix. for to make fruturs [1]. nym flowre and eyryn and grynd peper and safroun and mak therto a batour and par aplyn and kyt hem to brode penys [2] and kest hem theryn and fry hem in the batour wyth fresch grees and serve it forthe. [1] fritters. [2] pieces as broad as pennies, or perhaps pecys. xx. for to make chanke [1]. nym porke and seth it wel and hak yt smal nym eyryn wyth al the wytys and swyng hem wel al togedere and kast god swete mylke thereto and boyle yt and messe it forthe. [1] quære. xxi. for to make jussel. nym eyryn wyth al the wytys and mice bred grynd pepyr and safroun and do therto and temper yt wyth god fresch broth of porke and boyle it wel and messe yt forthe. xxii. for to make gees [1] in ochepot [2]. nym and schald hem wel and hew hem wel in gobettys al rawe and seth hem in her owyn grees and cast therto wyn or ale a cuppe ful and myce onyons smal and do therto and boyle yt and salt yt and messe yt forthe. [1] gese. [2] hochepot. vide gloss. xxiii. for to make eyryn in bruet. nym water and welle [1] yt and brek eyryn and kast theryn and grynd peper and safroun and temper up wyth swete mylk and boyle it and hakke chese smal and cast theryn and messe yt forthe. [1] quære the meaning. xxiv. for to make craytoun [1]. tak checonys and schald hem and seth hem and grvnd gyngen' other pepyr and comyn and temper it up wyth god mylk and do the checonys theryn and boyle hem and serve yt forthe. [1] vide ad no. 60 of the roll. xxv. for to make mylk rost. nym swete mylk and do yt in a panne nyn [1] eyryn wyth al the wyte and swyng hem wel and cast therto and colowre yt wyth safroun and boyl it tyl yt wexe thikke and thanne seth [2] yt thorw a culdore [3] and nym that, leyyth [4] and presse yt up on a bord and wan yt ys cold larde it and scher yt on schyverys and roste yt on a grydern and serve yt forthe. [1] read _nym_. [2] strain. see no. 27. [3] cuilinder. [4] that which is left in the cullinder. xxvi. for to make cryppys [1]. nym flour and wytys of eyryn sugur other hony and sweyng togedere and mak a batour nym wyte grees and do yt in a posnet and cast the batur thereyn and stury to thou have many [2] and tak hem up and messe hem wyth the frutours and serve forthe. [1] meaning, _crisps_. v. gloss. [2] it will run into lumps, i suppose. xxvii. for to make berandyles [1]. nym hennys and seth hem wyth god buf and wan hi ben sodyn nym the hennyn and do awey the bonys and bray smal yn a mortar and temper yt wyth the broth and seth yt thorw a culdore and cast therto powder of gyngenyr and sugur and graynys of powmis gernatys [2] and boyle yt and dresse yt in dysches and cast above clowys gylofres [3] and maces and god powder [4] serve yt forthe. [1] quære the meaning. [2] pomegranates. v. no. 39. [3] not clove-gilliflowers, but _cloves_. see no. 30, 31, 40. [4] see no. 17, note [3]. xxviii. for to make capons in casselys. nym caponys and schald hem nym a penne and opyn the skyn at the hevyd [1] and blowe hem tyl the skyn ryse from the flesshe and do of the skyn al hole and seth the lyre of hennyn and zolkys of heyryn and god powder and make a farsure [2] and fil ful the skyn and parboyle yt and do yt on a spete and rost yt and droppe [3] yt wyth zolkys of eyryn and god powder rostyng and nym the caponys body and larde yt and roste it and nym almaunde mylk and amydoun [4] and mak a batur and droppe the body rostyng and serve yt forthe. [1] head. sax. [anglo-saxon: heofod] and [anglo-saxon: hevod], hence our _head_. [2] stuffing. [3] baste. [4] vide gloss. xxix. for to make the blank surry [1]. tak brann [2] of caponys other of hennys and the thyes [3] wythowte the skyn and kerf hem smal als thou mayst and grynd hem smal in a morter and tak mylk of almaundys and do yn the branne and grynd hem thanne togedere and and seth hem togeder' and tak flour of rys other amydoun and lye it that yt be charchant and do therto sugur a god parti and a party of wyt grees and boyle yt and wan yt ys don in dyschis straw upon blank poudere and do togedere blank de sury and manmene [4] in a dysch and serve it forthe. [1] vide _blank desire_ in gloss. [2] perhaps _brawn_, the brawny part. see no. 33, and the gloss. [3] thighs. [4] see the next number. quære _mawmeny_. xxx. for to make manmene [1]. tak the thyys [2] other the flesch of the caponys fede [3] hem and kerf hem smal into a morter and tak mylk of almandys wyth broth of fresch buf and do the flesch in the mylk or in the broth and do yt to the fyre and myng yt togedere wyth flour of rys othere of wastelys als charchaut als the blank de sure and wyth the zolkys of eyryn for to make it zelow and safroun and wan yt ys dressyd in dysches wyth blank de sure straw upon clowys of gelofre [4] and straw upon powdre of galentyn and serve yt forthe. [1] vide number 29, and the gloss. [2] thighs. [3] quære. [4] see no. 27, note [3]. xxxi. for to make bruet of almayne. tak partrichys rostyd and checonys and qualys rostyd and larkys ywol and demembre the other and mak a god cawdel and dresse the flesch in a dysch and strawe powder of galentyn therupon. styk upon clowys of gelofre and serve yt forthe. xxxii. for ro make bruet of lombardye. tak chekenys or hennys or othere flesch and mak the colowre als red as any blod and tak peper and kanel and gyngyner bred [1] and grynd hem in a morter and a porcion of bred and mak that bruer thenne and do that flesch in that broth and mak hem boyle togedere and stury it wel and tak eggys and temper hem wyth jus of parcyle and wryng hem thorwe a cloth and wan that bruet is boylyd do that therto and meng tham togedere wyth fayr grees so that yt be fat ynow and serve yt forthe. [1] this is still in use, and, it seems, is an old compound. xxxiii. for to make blomanger [1]. do ris in water al nyzt and upon the morwe wasch hem wel and do hem upon the fyre for to [2] they breke and nozt for to muche and tak brann [3] of caponis sodyn and wel ydraw [4] and smal and tak almaund mylk and boyle it wel wyth ris and wan it is yboylyd do the flesch therin so that it be charghaunt and do therto a god party of sugure and wan it ys dressyd forth in dischis straw theron blaunche pouder and strik [5] theron almaundys fryed wyt wyte grece [6] and serve yt forthe. [1] see no. 14. [2] till. _for_, however, abounds. [3] see no. 29. note d. [4] perhaps, _strained_. see no. 49; and part ii. no. 33. [5] perhaps, _stik_, i.e. stick; but see 34. [6] grese. fat, or lard. xxxiv. for to make sandale that party to blomanger. tak flesch of caponys and of pork sodyn kerf yt smal into a morter togedere and bray that wel. and temper it up wyth broth of caponys and of pork that yt be wel charchaunt also the crem of almaundys and grynd egges and safroun or sandres togedere that it be coloured and straw upon powder of galentyn and strik thereon clowys and maces and serve it forthe. xxxv. for to make apulmos [1]. tak applys and seth hem and let hem kele and after mak hem thorwe a cloth and do hem im a pot and kast to that mylk of almaundys wyth god broth of buf in flesch dayes do bred ymyed [2] therto. and the fisch dayes do therto oyle of olyve and do therto sugur and colour it wyth safroun and strew theron powder and serve it forthe. [1] see no. 17. [2] ymyced, i.e. _minced_. xxxvi. for to make mete gelee [1] that it be wel chariaunt. tak wyte wyn and a party of water and safroun and gode spicis and flesch of piggys or of hennys or fresch fisch and boyle them togedere and after wan yt ys boylyd and cold dres yt in dischis and serve yt forthe. [1] meat jelly. xxxvii. for to make murrey [1]. tak mulbery [2] and bray hem in a morter and wryng [3] hem thorth a cloth and do hem in a pot over the fyre and do thereto fat bred and wyte gresse and let it nazt boyle no ofter than onys and do thereto a god party of sugur and zif yt be nozt ynowe colowrd brey mulburus and serve yt forthe. [1] morrey. part ii. no. 26. [2] this is to be understood pluraly, _quasi_ mulberries. [2] read _wryng_. for see part ii. no. 17. 2b. chaucer, v. _wronge_ and _ywrong_. xxxviii. for to make a penche of egges. tak water and do it in a panne to the fyre and lat yt sethe and after tak eggs and brek hem and cast hem in the water and after tak a chese and kerf yt on fowr partins and cast in the water and wanne the chese and the eggys ben wel sodyn tak hem owt of the water and wasch hem in clene water and tak wastel breed and temper yt wyth mylk of a kow. and after do yt over the fyre and after forsy yt wyth gyngener and wyth cornyn and colowr yt wyth safroun and lye yt wyth eggys and oyle the sewe wyth boter and kep wel the chese owt and dresse the sewe and dymo [1] eggys thereon al ful and kerf thy chese in lytyl schyms and do hem in the sewe wyth eggys and serve yt forthe. [1] perhaps, _do mo_, i.e. put more. xxxix. for to make comyn. tak god almaunde mylk and lat yt boyle and do ther'in amydoun wyth flowr of rys and colowr yt wyth safroun and after dresse yt wyth graynis of poungarnetts [1] other wyth reysens zyf thow hast non other and tak sugur and do theryn and serve it forthe. [1] vide no. 27. xiv. for to make fruturs [1]. tak crommys [2] of wyte bred and the flowris of the swete appyltre and zolkys of eggys and bray hem togedere in a morter and temper yt up wyth wyte wyn and mak yt to sethe and wan yt is thykke do thereto god spicis of gyngener galyngale canel and clowys gelofre and serve yt forth; [1] fritters. [2] crumbs. xli. for to make rosee [1]. tak the flowris of rosys and wasch hem wel in water and after bray hem wel in a morter and than tak almondys and temper hem and seth hem and after tak flesch of capons or of hennys and hac yt smale and than bray hem wel in a morter and than do yt in the rose [2] so that the flesch acorde wyth the mylk and so that the mete be charchaunt and after do yt to the fyre to boyle and do thereto sugur and safroun that yt be wel ycolowrd and rosy of levys and of the forseyde flowrys and serve yt forth. [1] vide no. 47. [2] i.e. rosee. xlii. for to make pommedorry [1]. tak buff and hewe yt smal al raw and cast yt in a morter and grynd yt nozt to smal tak safroun and grynd therewyth wan yt ys grounde tak the wyte of the eyryn zyf yt be nozt styf. cast into the buf pouder of pepyr olde resyns and of coronse set over a panne wyth fayr water and mak pelotys of the buf and wan the water and the pelots ys wel yboylyd and [2] set yt adoun and kele yt and put yt on a broche and rost yt and endorre yt wyth zolkys of eyryn and serve yt forthe. [1] vide no. 58. [2] dele _and_. xliii. for to make longe de buf [1]. nym the tonge of the rether [2] and schalde and schawe [3] yt wel and rizt clene and seth yt and sethe nym a broche [4] and larde yt wyth lardons and wyth clowys and gelofre and do it rostyng and drop yt wel yt rostyd [5] wyth zolkys of eyrin and dresse it forthe. [1] neat's tongue. _make_ signifies _to dress_, as ii. 12. [2] the ox or cow. lye in jun. etymolog. v. _rother_. [3] shave, scrape. [4] a larding-pin. [5] pehaps, _wyle it rostyth_. xliv. for to make rew de rumsy. nym swynys fet and eyr [1] and make hem clene and seth hem alf wyth wyn and half wyth water cast mycyd onyons thereto and god spicis and wan they be ysodyn nym and rosty hem in a grydere wan it is yrostyd kest thereto of the selve broth hy lyed wyth amydoun and anyeyd onyons [2] and serve yt forth. [1] to be understood plurally, _ears_. [2] miswritten for _mycyd_, i. e. minced onyons. xlv. for to make bukkenade [1]. nym god fresch flesch wat maner so yt be and hew yt in smale morselys and seth yt wyth gode fresch buf and cast thereto gode mynced onyons and gode spicerye and alyth [2] wyth eyryn and boyle and dresse yt forth. [1] vide no. 52. [2] stiffen, thicken it. see no. 44. where _lyed_ has that sense. see also 46. xlvi. for to make spine [1]. nym the flowrys of the haw thorn clene gaderyd and bray hem al to dust and temper hem wyth almaunde mylk and aly yt wyth amydoun and wyth eyryn wel rykke [2] and boyle it and messe yt forth and flowrys and levys abovyn on [3]. [1] this dish, no doubt, takes its name from _spina_, of which it is made. [2] read, þykke, _thykke_. [3] it means _laid upon it_. xlvii. for to make rosee [1] and fresee and swan schal be ymad in the selve maner. nym pyggus and hennys and other maner fresch flesch and hew yt in morselys and seth yt in wyth wyn and [2] gyngyner and galyngale and gelofre and canel [3] and bray yt wel and kest thereto and alye yt wyth amydoun other wyth flowr of rys. [1] vide no. 41. [2] perhaps, _in wyn with_. [3] cinamon. vide gloss. xlviii. for to make an amendement formete that ys to [1] salt and over mychyl. nym etemele and bynd yt in a fayr lynnen clowt and lat yt honge in the pot so that yt thowche nozt the bottym and lat it hongy thereynne a god wyle and seþh [2] set yt fro the fyre and let yt kele and yt schal be fresch ynow wythoute any other maner licowr ydo thereto. [1] id est, _too_. [2] read, seth, i.e. then. xlix. for to make rapy [1]. tak fygys and reysyns and wyn and grynd hem togeder tak and draw hem thorw a cloth and do thereto powder of alkenet other of rys and do thereto a god quantite of pepir and vyneger and boyle it togeder and messe yt and serve yt forth. [1] vide part ii. no. 1. 28. l. for to make an egge dows [1]. tak almaundys and mak god mylk and temper wyth god wyneger clene tak reysynys and boyle hem in clene water and tak the reysynis and tak hem owt of the water and boyle hem wyth mylk and zyf thow wyl colowr yt wyth safron and serve yt forth. [1] vide ad part ii. no. 21. there are no eggs concerned, so no doubt it should be _eger dows_. vide gloss. li. for to make a mallard in cyney [1]. tak a mallard and pul hym drye and swyng over the fyre draw hym but lat hym touche no water and hew hym in gobettys and do hym in a pot of clene water boyle hem wel and tak onyons and boyle and bred and pepyr and grynd togedere and draw thorw a cloth temper wyth wyn and boyle yt and serve yt forth. [1] see no. 8. lii. for to make a bukkenade [1]. tak veel and boyle it tak zolkys of eggys and mak hem thykke tak macis and powdre of gyngyner and powder of peper and boyle yt togeder and messe yt forth. [1] vide no. 45. liii. for to make a roo broth [1]. tak parsile and ysop and sauge and hak yt smal boil it in wyn and in water and a lytyl powdre of peper and messe yt forth. [1] _deer_ or _roes_ are not mentioned, as in mr. brander's roll, no. 14, ergo quære. it is a meager business. can it mean _rue-broth_ for penitents? liv. for to mak a bruet of sarcynesse. tak the lyre of the fresch buf and bet it al in pecis and bred and fry yt in fresch gres tak it up and and drye it and do yt in a vessel wyth wyn and sugur and powdre of clowys boyle yt togedere tyl the flesch have drong the liycoure and take the almande mylk and quibibz macis and clowys and boyle hem togedere tak the flesch and do thereto and messe it forth. lv. for to make a gely [1]. tak hoggys fet other pyggys other erys other partrichys other chiconys and do hem togedere and serh [2] hem in a pot and do hem in flowre of canel and clowys other or grounde [3] do thereto vineger and tak and do the broth in a clene vessel of al thys and tak the flesch and kerf yt in smal morselys and do yt therein tak powder of galyngale and cast above and lat yt kels tak bronches of the lorer tre and styk over it and kep yt al so longe as thou wilt and serve yt forth. [1] jelly. [2] seþ, i. e. _seeth_. [3] not clearly expressed. it means either cinamon or cloves, and either in flour or ground. lvi. for to kepe venison fro restyng. tak venisoun wan yt ys newe and cuver it hastely wyth fern that no wynd may come thereto and wan thou hast ycuver yt wel led yt hom and do yt in a soler that sonne ne wynd may come thereto and dimembre it and do yt in a clene water and lef yt ther' half a day and after do yt up on herdeles for to drie and wan yt ys drye tak salt and do after thy venisoun axit [1] and do yt boyle in water that yt be other [2] so salt als water of the see and moche more and after lat the water be cold that it be thynne and thanne do thy venisoun in the water and lat yt be therein thre daies and thre nyzt [3] and after tak yt owt of the water and salt it wyth drie salt ryzt wel in a barel and wan thy barel ys ful cuver it hastely that sunne ne wynd come thereto. [1] as thy venison requires. see gloss. to chaucer for _axe_. [2] dele. [3] a plural, as in no. 57. lvii. for to do away restyn [1] of venisoun. tak the venisoun that ys rest and do yt in cold water and after mak an hole in the herthe and lat yt be thereyn thre dayes and thre nyzt and after tak yt up and spot yt wel wyth gret salt of peite [2] there were the restyng ys and after lat yt hange in reyn water al nyzt or more. [1] restiness. it should be rather _restyng_. see below. [2] pierre, or petre. lviii. for to make poundorroge [1]. tak partrichis wit [2] longe filettis of pork al raw and hak hem wel smale and bray hem in a morter and wan they be wel brayed do thereto god plente of pouder and zolkys of eyryn and after mak thereof a farsure formed of the gretnesse of a onyoun and after do it boyle in god breth of buf other of pork after lat yt kele and after do it on a broche of hasel and do them to the fere to roste and after mak god bature of floure and egge on bature wyt and another zelow and do thereto god plente of sugur and tak a fethere or a styk and tak of the bature and peynte thereon above the applyn so that on be wyt and that other zelow wel colourd. [1] vide no. 42. [2] with. explicit servicium de carnibus. hic incipit servicium de pissibus_ [1]. [1] see p. 1 i. for to make egarduse [1]. tak lucys [2] or tenchis and hak hem smal in gobette and fry hem in oyle de olive and syth nym vineger and the thredde party of sugur and myncyd onyons smal and boyle al togedere and cast thereyn clowys macys and quibibz and serve yt forthe. [1] see no. 21 below, and part i. no. 50. [2] lucy, i presume, means the _pike_; so that this fish was known here long before the reign of h. viii. though it is commonly thought otherwise. v. gloss. ii. for to make rapy [1]. tak pyg' or tenchis or other maner fresch fysch and fry yt wyth oyle de olive and syth nym the crustys of wyt bred and canel and bray yt al wel in a mortere and temper yt up wyth god wyn and cole [2] yt thorw an hersyve and that yt be al cole [3] of canel and boyle yt and cast therein hole clowys and macys and quibibz and do the fysch in dischis and rape [4] abovyn and dresse yt forthe. [1] vide no. 49. [2] strain, from lat. _colo_. [3] strained, or cleared. [4] this rape is what the dish takes its name from. perhaps means _grape_ from the french _raper_. vide no. 28. iii. for to make fygey. nym lucys or tenchis and hak hem in morsell' and fry hem tak vyneger and the thredde party of sugur myncy onyons smal and boyle al togedyr cast ther'yn macis clowys quibibz and serve yt forth. iiii. for to make pommys morles. nym rys and bray hem [1] wel and temper hem up wyth almaunde mylk and boyle yt nym applyn and par' hem and sher hem smal als dicis and cast hem ther'yn after the boylyng and cast sugur wyth al and colowr yt wyth safroun and cast ther'to pouder and serve yt forthe. [1] rice, as it consists of grains, is here considered as a plural. see also no. 5. 7, 8. v. for to make rys moyle [1]. nym rys and bray hem ryzt wel in a morter and cast ther'to god almaunde mylk and sugur and salt boyle yt and serve yt forth. [1] vide gloss. vi. for to make sowpys dorry. nym onyons and mynce hem smale and fry hem in oyl dolyf nym wyn and boyle yt wyth the onyouns roste wyte bred and do yt in dischis and god almande mylk also and do ther'above and serve yt forthe. vii. for to make blomanger [1] of fysch. tak a pound of rys les hem wel and wasch and seth tyl they breste and lat hem kele and do ther'to mylk of to pound of almandys nym the perche or the lopuster and boyle yt and kest sugur and salt also ther'to and serve yt forth. [1] see note on no. 14. of part i. viii. for to make a potage of rys. tak rys and les hem and wasch hem clene and seth hem tyl they breste and than lat hem kele and seth cast ther'to almand mylk and colour it wyth safroun and boyle it and messe yt forth. ix. for to make lamprey fresch in galentyne [1]. schal be latyn blod atte navel and schald yt and rost yt and ley yt al hole up on a plater and zyf hym forth wyth galentyn that be mad of galyngale gyngener and canel and dresse yt forth. [1] this is a made or compounded thing. see both here, and in the next number, and v. gloss. x. for to make salt lamprey in galentyne [1]. yt schal be stoppit [2] over nyzt in lews water and in braan and flowe and sodyn and pyl onyons and seth hem and ley hem al hol by the lomprey and zif hem forthe wyth galentyne makyth [3] wyth strong vyneger and wyth paryng of wyt bred and boyle it al togeder' and serve yt forthe. [1] see note [1] on the last number. [2] perhaps, _steppit_, i. e. steeped. see no. 12. [3] perhaps, _makyd_, i.e. made. xi. for to make lampreys in bruet. they schulle be schaldyd and ysode and ybrulyd upon a gredern and grynd peper and safroun and do ther'to and boyle it and do the lomprey ther'yn and serve yt forth. xii. for to make a storchoun. he schal be shorn in besys [1] and stepyd [2] over nyzt and sodyn longe as flesch and he schal be etyn in venegar. [1] perhaps, _pesys_, i.e. pieces. [2] qu. _steppit_, i.e. steeped. xiii. for to make solys in bruet. they schal be fleyn and sodyn and rostyd upon a gredern and grynd peper and safroun and ale boyle it wel and do the sole in a plater and the bruet above serve it forth. xiv. for to make oystryn in bruet. they schul be schallyd [1] and ysod in clene water grynd peper safroun bred and ale and temper it wyth broth do the oystryn ther'ynne and boyle it and salt it and serve it forth. [1] have shells taken off. xv. for to make elys in bruet. they schul be flayn and ket in gobett' and sodyn and grynd peper and safroun other myntys and persele and bred and ale and temper it wyth the broth and boyle it and serve it forth. xvi. for to make a lopister. he schal be rostyd in his scalys in a ovyn other by the feer under a panne and etyn wyth veneger. xvii. for to make porreyne. tak prunys fayrist wasch hem wel and clene and frot hem wel in syve for the jus be wel ywronge and do it in a pot and do ther'to wyt gres and a party of sugur other hony and mak hem to boyle togeder' and mak yt thykke with flowr of rys other of wastel bred and wan it is sodyn dresse it into dischis and strew ther'on powder and serve it forth. xviii. for to make chireseye. tak chiryes at the fest of seynt john the baptist and do away the stonys grynd hem in a morter and after frot hem wel in a seve so that the jus be wel comyn owt and do than in a pot and do ther'in feyr gres or boter and bred of wastrel ymyid [1] and of sugur a god party and a porcioun of wyn and wan it is wel ysodyn and ydressyd in dyschis stik ther'in clowis of gilofr' and strew ther'on sugur. [1] perhaps, _ymycid_, i.e. minced; or _mycd_, as in no. 19. xix. for to make blank de sur' [1]. tak the zolkys of eggs sodyn and temper it wyth mylk of a kow and do ther'to comyn and safroun and flowr' of ris or wastel bred mycd and grynd in a morter and temper it up wyth the milk and mak it boyle and do ther'to wit [2] of egg' corvyn smale and tak fat chese and kerf ther'to wan the licour is boylyd and serve it forth. [1] vide note [1] on no. 29. of part i. [2] white. so _wyt_ is _white_ in no. 21. below. xx. for to make grave enforse. tak tryd [1] gyngener and safroun and grynd hem in a morter and temper hem up wyth almandys and do hem to the fir' and wan it boylyth wel do ther'to zolkys of egg' sodyn and fat chese corvyn in gobettis and wan it is dressid in dischis strawe up on powder of galyngale and serve it forth. [1] it appears to me to be _tryd_. can it be _fryd_? xxi. for to make hony douse [1]. tak god mylk of almandys and rys and wasch hem wel in a feyr' vessel and in fayr' hoth water and after do hem in a feyr towayl for to drie and wan that they be drye bray hem wel in a morter al to flowr' and afterward tak two partyis and do the half in a pot and that other half in another pot and colowr that on wyth the safroun and lat that other be wyt and lat yt boyle tyl it be thykke and do ther'to a god party of sugur and after dresse yt in twe dischis and loke that thou have almandys boylid in water and in safroun and in wyn and after frie hem and set hem upon the fyre sethith mete [2] and strew ther'on sugur that yt be wel ycolouryt [3] and serve yt forth. [1] see part ii. no. i; and part i. no. 50. [2] seth it mete, i.e. seeth it properly. [3] coloured. see no. 28. below. xxii. for to make a potage feneboiles. tak wite benes and seth hem in water and bray the benys in a morter al to nozt and lat them sethe in almande mylk and do ther'in wyn and hony and seth [1] reysons in wyn and do ther'to and after dresse yt forth. [1] i.e. seeth. xxiii. for to make tartys in applis. tak gode applys and gode spycis and figys and reysons and perys and wan they are wel ybrayed colourd [1] wyth safroun wel and do yt in a cofyn and do yt forth to bake wel. [1] perhaps, _coloure_. xxiv. for to make rys alker'. tak figys and reysons and do awey the kernelis and a god party of applys and do awey the paryng of the applis and the kernelis and bray hem wel in a morter and temper hem up with almande mylk and menge hem wyth flowr of rys that yt be wel chariaunt and strew ther'upon powder of galyngale and serve yt forth. xxv. for to make tartys of fysch owt of lente. mak the cowche of fat chese and gyngener and canel and pur' crym of mylk of a kow and of helys ysodyn and grynd hem wel wyth safroun and mak the chowche of canel and of clowys and of rys and of gode spycys as other tartys fallyth to be. xxvi. for to make morrey [1]. requir' de carnibus ut supra [2]. [1] vide part i. no. 37. [2] part i. no. 37. xxvii. for to make flownys [1] in lente. tak god flowr and mak a past and tak god mylk of almandys and flowr of rys other amydoun and boyle hem togeder' that they be wel chariaud wan yt is boylid thykke take yt up and ley yt on a feyr' bord so that yt be cold and wan the cofyns ben makyd tak a party of and do upon the coffyns and kerf hem in schiveris and do hem in god mylk of almandys and figys and datys and kerf yt in fowr partyis and do yt to bake and serve yt forth. [1] perhaps, _flawnes_, or custards. chaucer, vide _slaunis_. fr. _flans_. xxviii. for to make rapee [1]. tak the crustys of wyt bred and reysons and bray hem wel in a morter and after temper hem up wyth wyn and wryng hem thorw a cloth and do ther'to canel that yt be al colouryt of canel and do ther'to hole clowys macys and quibibz the fysch schal be lucys other tenchis fryid or other maner fysch so that yt be fresch and wel yfryed and do yt in dischis and that rape up on and serve yt forth. [1] vide part i. no. 49. xxix. for to make a porrey chapeleyn. tak an hundred onyons other an half and tak oyle de olyf and boyle togeder' in a pot and tak almande mylk and boyle yt and do ther'to. tak and make a thynne paast of dow and make therof as it were ryngis tak and fry hem in oyle de olyve or in wyte grees and boil al togedere. xxx. for to make formenty on a fichssday [1]. tak the mylk of the hasel notis boyl the wete [2] wyth the aftermelk til it be dryyd and tak and coloured [3] yt wyth safroun and the ferst mylk cast ther'to and boyle wel and serve yt forth. [1] fishday. [2] white. [3] perhaps, _colour_. xxxi. for to make blank de syry [1]. tak almande mylk and flowre of rys. tak thereto sugur and boyle thys togedere and dische yt and tak almandys and wet hem in water of sugur and drye hem in a panne and plante hem in the mete and serve yt forth. [1] vide ad no. 29. of part i. xxxii. for to make a pynade or pyvade. take hony and rotys of radich and grynd yt smal in a morter and do yt thereto that hony a quantite of broun sugur and do thereto. tak powder of peper and safroun and almandys and do al togedere boyl hem long and hold [1] yt in a wet bord and let yt kele and messe yt and do yt forth [2]. [1] i.e. _keep_, as in next number. [2] this recipe is ill expressed. xxxiii. for to make a balourgly [1] broth. tak pikys and spred hem abord and helys zif thou hast fle hem and ket hem in gobettys and seth hem in alf wyn [2] and half in water. tak up the pykys and elys and hold hem hote and draw the broth thorwe a clothe do powder of gyngener peper and galyngale and canel into the broth and boyle yt and do yt on the pykys and on the elys and serve yt forth. [1] this is so uncertain in the original, that i can only guess at it. [2] perhaps, _alf in wyn_, or dele _in_ before _water_. explicit de coquina que est optima medicina. index and glossary to mr. brander's roll of cookery. the numbers relate to the order of the recipes. n.b. many words are now written as one, which formerly were divided, as al so, up on, &c. of these little notice is taken in the index, but i mention it here once for all. our orthography was very fluctuating and uncertain at this time, as appears from the different modes of spelling the same words, v. to gedre; v. wayshe; v. ynowkz; v. chargeant; v. coraunte; &c. a. a. abounds, a gode broth, 5. 26, al a nyzt, 192. _in_. a two, 62. an. and. passim. aftir. proem, like, 176, wiclif. aray. dress, set forth, 7. chaucer. alf. ms. ed. 45. ii. 33. half. alye it. 7. 33. mix, thicken, hence _alloy_ of metals. from french _allayer_. alay, 22. aly, ms. ed. 46. see junij etymolog. v. alaye. lye. here no. 15. lyed. thickened. ms. ed. 44, 45. randle holme interprets lyth or lything by thickening. hence lyour. a mixture, 11. alith_ for alyed. ms. editor. no. 45. awey. ms. ed. 27. ii. 18. away. auance. 6. forte avens. _caryophylla_, miller, gard. dict. axe. ms. ed. no. 56. chaucer. ayren. v. eyren. al, alle. 23. 53. proem. all. chaucer, _al to brest_. all burst. ms. ed. no. 14. als. ms. editor. no. 29. chaucer, in v. it means _as_. almandes. 17. very variously written at this time, almaunde, almandys, almaundys, almondes, all which occur in ms. ed. and mean almond or almonds. almaund mylke. 9. almonds blanched and drawn thickish with good broth or water, no. 51. is called _thyk mylke_, 52. and is called after almaunde mylke, first and second milk, 116. almaunds unblaunched, ground, and drawn with good broth, is called mylke, 62. cow's milk was sometimes used instead of it, as ms. ed. i. 13. creme of almands how made, 85. of it, lel. coll. vi. p. 17. we hear elsewhere of almond-butter, v. butter. azeyn. 24. again. lel. coll. iv. p. 281. alibi. chaucer. a.s. [anglosaxon: azen]. aneys, anyse, 36. 137. aneys in confit rede other whyt, 36. 38. i.e. anis or aniseed confectioned red, or white, used for garnish, 58. amydon. 37. v. ad locum. almony. 47. v. ad locum. almayne. 71. germany, v. ad loc. ms. editor, no. 2. 31. alkenet. 47. a species of buglos. quincey, dispens. p. 51. 62. used for colouring, 51. 84. fryed and yfoundred, or yfondyt, 62. 162. anoon. 53. anon, immediately. wiclif. arn. ms. ed. ii. 23. are. chaucer, v. _arne_. adoun. 59. 85. down. v. chaucer, voce _adoune_. ms. edit. no. i. avysement. proem. advice, direction. chaucer. french. aymers. 72. embers. sax. [anglo-saxon: aemyrian], cineres. belg. _ameren_. aquapatys. 75. a mess or dish. alker. rys alker. ms. ed. ii. 24. appulmoy. 79. a dish. v. ad loc. appelyn, applys, apples. ms. ed. 17. 35. abrode. 85. abrod. ms. ed. ii. 33. abroad. so _brode_. ms. ed. 15. broad. alite. v. lite. ale. 113. v. pref. aside. 113. apart. wiclif. aysell. 114, 115. a species of vinegar. wiclif. chaucer, v. _eisel_. alegar. 114. armed. 146. v. ad loc. alygyn. v. brewet. b. bacon. no. i. benes. i. alibi beans. chaucer, v. _bene_. bef. 6. ms. ed. 17. beef, buf, buff. ms. ed. 27. 42, 43. buth. 6. 23. 30. alibi, been, are. chaucer has _beth_. ben. ms. ed. 4. 27. be. chaucer v. _bein_ and _ben_. balles. 152. balls or pellets. blank desire. 193, 194. bis. lel. coll. vi. p. 5. in no. 193, we meet with _blank desne_, but the contents has _desire_, which is right, as appears from the sequel. in ms. ed. 29. it is _blank-surry_, and _sury_, and _sure_, and _de sur_. ii. 19. de syry, 31. and here no. 37, it is dessorre. and we have _samon in sorry_. lel. coll. vi. p. 17. perches, ibid. eels p. 28. 30. where it is a potage. whence i conceive it either means _de surrey_, i. e. syria, v. chaucer. v. _surrey_. or it may mean _to be desired_, as we have _horsys of desyr_. lel. coll. iv. p. 272. see no. 63. and it is plainly written _desire_ in godwin de præsul. p. 697. in this case, the others are all of them corruptions. blank dessorre. v. blank desire. blank desne. v. blank desire. berandyles. ms. ed. 27. bred, breed. ms. ed. passim. bread. bove. 167. above. chaucer. belg. _boven_. blode. 11. alibi. blod. ms. ed. 9. blood. batour. 149. of eggs, 161. 179. batur, 28. batour. ibid. 19. batter. boter. ms. ed. 38. butter. borage. 6. betes. 6. beets. fr. _bete_. bursen. n. name of a dish. bursews, no. 179, is a different dish. brek. ms. ed. 6. 23. break, bruise. brest, breste. ms. ed. 1. 14. burst. bukkennade. 17. a dish. buknade, 118. where it means a mode of dressing. vide ms. ed. 45. 52. bryddes. 19. briddes, 60. 62. birds, per metathesin. chaucer. brawn of capons. 20. 84. flesh. braun. ms. ed. 29. v. chaucer, we now say, _brawn of the arm_, meaning the flesh. hence _brawn-fall'n_. old plays, xi. p. 85. lylie's euphues, p. 94. 142. chaucer. brawn is now appropriated to these rolls which are made of brawn or boar, but it was not so anciently, since in no. 32 we have _brawn of swyne_, which shews the word was common to other kinds of flesh as well as that of the boar; and therefore i cannot agree with dr. wallis in deducing _brawn _ from _aprugna_. blank maunger. 36. 192. chaucer writes _blank manger_. blomanger. ms. ed. 14. 33. 34. ii. 7. n. b. a very different thing from what we make now under that name, and see holme, iii. p. 81. bronchis. ms. ed. 55. branches. braan. ms. ed. ii. 10. bran. bet. ms. ed. ii. 21. beaten. broche. ms. ed. 58. a spit. brewet of almony. 47. v. almony. of ayrenn, or eggs, 91. ms. ed. 23. eles in brewet, 110. where it seems to be composed of bread and wine. muskles in brewet, 122. hens in bruet, ms. ed. 7. cold, 131. 134. bruet and brewet are french _brouet_, pottage or broth. bruet riche, lel. coll. iv. p. 226. _beorwete_, p. 227, as i take it. _blanche brewet de alyngyn_, ms. ed. 13. 23. boon. 55. bone. chaucer. brennyng. 67. 188. burning, per metathesin, from _bren_ or _brenne_, used by skelton, in the invective against wolsey, and many old authors. hence the disease called brenning or burning. motte's abridgement of phil. trans. part iv. p. 245. reid's abridgement, part iii. p. 149. wiclif has _brenne_ and _bryne_. chaucer, v. _bren_, _brinne_, &c. blake. 68. black. chaucer. berst. 70. 181. 192. burst. chaucer. a.s. [anglo-saxon: berstan]. breth. 71. air, steam. ms. ed. n° 2. hence _brether_, breather. wiclif. bronn. 74. brown. a.s. [anglo-saxon: brun]. butter. 81. 91. 92. 160. boter, ms. ed. 38. and so _boutry_ is buttery. lel. coll. iv. p. 281. _almonde butter_. lel. vi. p. 6. rabelais, iv. c. 60. bynethen. 92. under, beneath. chaucer, bineth. bolas. 95. bullace. chaucer. bifore. 102. before. wiclif. matth. xiv. chaucer has _biforne_, and byforne. brasey. a compound sauce, 107. ballac broth. 109. brymlent. tart de brymlent. 167. v. ad loc. bloms. 171. flowers, blossoms. chaucer. bothom. 173. bottom, pronounced _bothom_ now in the north. chaucer, bottym, ms. ed. 48. brode. 189. broad, v. abrode. bataiwyng. 189. embatteling. qu. if not misread for _bataillyng_. see chaucer, v. batailed. bord. ms. ed. ii. 27. board. chaucer. breyt, breth. ms. ed. 17. 58. broth. blank surry. ms. ed. 29. ii. 19. v. blank desire. bismeus. ms. ed. 16. c. c. omitted, v. cok. v. pluk. v. pryk. v. pekok. v. phisik. v. thyk. on the contrary it often abounds, hence, schulle, should; fresch, fresh; dische, dish; schepys, sheeps; flesch, flesh; fysch, fish; scher, cheer, &c. in ms. ed. v. gl. to chaucer, v. schal. craftly. proem. properly, _secundum artem_. caboches. 4. alibi. cabbages. f. fr. caboche, head, pate. caraway. 53. v. junij etymolog. carvon. 152. carved, cut. corvyn, ms. ed. ii. 19,20. cut. _corue_, i. e. corve, 4. cut. v. ycorve. v. kerve. canell. passim. cinamon. wiclif. v. pref. cuver. ms. ed. 56. cover. cumpas. by cumpas, i.e. compass, 189. by measure, or round. lel. coll. iv. p. 263. cool. 6. cole or colwort. belg. _kool_. corat. 12. name of a dish. culdore. ms. ed. 25. 27. a cullender. span. coladers. casselys. ms. ed. 28. cranes. 146. _grues_. v. ad loc. chyballes. 12. chibolls, 76. young onions. littleton. ital _cibolo_. lat. cæpula, according to menage; and see lye. colys. ms. ed. ii. see the pref. cawdel. 15. 33. caudell, contents. see junius. of muskels or muscles, 124. cawdel ferry, 41. in e. of devon's feast it is _feny_. conynges. 17. connynges, 2,3. coneys, rabbets. calle. 152. cawl of a swine. connat. 18. a marmolade. v. ad loc. clowes. 20. cloves. v. pref. canuas, or canvass. 178. fr, canevas. belg. kanefas. coraunte. raysouns of coraunte. 14. so _rasyns of corens_, northumb. book, p. 19. _raisin de corinthie_. fr. i.e. of corinth, whence our currants, which are small raisins, came, and took their name. _corance_, 17. 21. _coraunce_. 50. _coronse_, ms. ed. 12. raisins are called by way of contradistinction _grete_ raysouns, 65. 133. see northumb. book, p. 11. coronse. v. coraunte. chargeant. 192. stiff. v. ad loc. ms. ed. writes _charchant_, 29, 30 _charghaunt_, 33. _charchaunt_, 34. _chariaunt_. i.e. _charjaunt_, 36. ii. 24. _chariand_. i.e. _charjand_, 27. comyn. ms. ed. 39. colure. ms. ed. 5. to colour. coneys. 22. seems to be a kind of sauce. ms. ed. 6. but the recipe there is different, v. ad no. 25. chanke. ms. ed. 20. col, cole. 23. 52. cool, also to strain, 70, 71. alibi. ms. ed. ii. 22. cleared. comyn. ms. ed. ii. 18. come. cowche. 24. 154. lay. ms. ed. ii. 25. chaucer, v. couche. cynee. 25. a certain sauce. perhaps the same with coney. no. 22. plays in cynee, 112. sooles, 119. tenches, 120. oysters, 123. harys [hares] in cmee. ms. ed. 8. where doubtless we should read cinee, since in no. 51 there it is _cyney_. it is much the same as _bruet_, for _sooles in cynee_ here is much the same with _solys in bruet_. ms. ed. ii. 13. chykens. 27. 33. chicken is a plural itself. but in ms. ed. 13. it is _chekenys_ also; and _chyckyns_. lel. coll. iv. p. 1. _checonys_ ms. ed. carnel of pork. 32. v. ad loc. corvyn. v. carvon. curlews. 35. not eaten now at good tables; however they occur in archb. nevill's feast. lel. coll. vi. p. 1. and see northumb. book, p. 106. rabelais iv. c. 59. and earl of devon's feast. confit, or confyt. v. aneys and colyandre. charlet. 39. a dish. v. ad loc. chese ruayn. 49. 166. perhaps of rouen in normandy, _rouen_ in fr. signifies the colour we call _roan_. crems. 52. for singular cream, written _creme_, 85. 183. crem and crym, in ms. ed. 34. ii. 24. fr. _cresme, creme_. cormarye. 53. a dish. qu. colyandre. 53. 128. where it is _in confyt rede_, or red. white is also used for garnish, 59. [anglo-saxon: celenðre], a.s. [anglo-saxon: ciliandro], span. chyryse. 58. a made dish of cherries, v. ad loc. cheweryes. 58. cherries. v. ad loc. and ms. ed. ii. 18. ubi _chiryes_. crotoun, 60. a dish. v. ad loc. crayton. v. crotoun. cleeve a two. 62. cloven. a.s. [anglo-saxon: cleopan]. cyrip. 64. sirrup. v. ad loc. chyches. 72. vetches, v. ad loc. chawf. 74 warm. fr. _echauffer_, whence chaucer has _eschaufe_. clat. 78. a dish. qu. chef. proem, chief. fr. calwar salmoun. 98. v. ad loc. compost. 100. a preparation supposed to be always at hand. v. ad loc. comfery. 190. comfrey. v. ad loc. chargeours. 101. dishes. v. ad 126. chysanne. 103. to be eaten cold. congur. 104. 115. lel. coll. vi. p. 6. bis. p. 16. _cungeri_ are among the fish in mr. topham's ms. for the conger, little used now, see pennant. iii. p. 115. coffyns. 113. pies raised without their lids, 158. 167. 185. 196. ms. ed. ii. 23. 27. in wiclif it denotes baskets. comade. 113. comadore. 188. couertour. 113. coverture, lid of a pye. codlyng. 94. grete codelyng, 114. v. ad loc. chawdoun. 115. for swans, 143. _swan with chawdron_. lel. coll. iv. p. 226. which i suppose may be true orthography. so _swann with chaudron_. earl of devon's feast. and it appears from a ms. of mr. astle's, where we have among _sawces swanne is good with chaldron_, that _chaldron_ is a sauce. crome. 131. pulp, kernel. crummes. 159. chaucer. the crum is now the soft part of a loaf, opposed to the crust. cury. proem. cookery. we have assumed it in the title. camelyne. 144. a sauce. an _canelyne_, from the flour of canel? crudds. 150. 171. curds, per metathesin, as common in the north. crustards. 154. pies, from the _crust_. quære if our _custard_ be not a corruption of crustard; junius gives a different etymon, but whether a better, the reader must judge. crustard of fish, 156. of herbs, 157. and in the earl of devon's feast we have _un paste crustade_. cryspes. 162. cryspels. 163. v. ad loc. _fritter crispayne_, lel. coll. vi. p. 5. which in godwin de præsal p. 697. is _fruter crispin_. chawfour. 162. cowfer, 173. a chafing dish. chafer. lel. coll. iv. p. 302. v. junius voce _chafe_. corose. 171. curiously. perhaps from _cure_, to cook, chaucer has _corouse_, curious. clarry. 172. clary. cotagres. 175. a dish. v. ad loc. cok. 175. a cock. sic. lel. coll. iv. p. 227. chewets. 185. 186. a dish. rand. holme, iii. p. 78. 81, 82. birch, life of prince henry, p. 458. comadore. v. comade. chastlet. 189. v. ad loc. christen. proem. christian. d. do. 1, 2. put, cause. ms. ed. 2. 12. chaucer. _make_. 56. done, 48. so chaucer has _do_ for _done_. dof. do off. 101. draw. drawen 2. strained, hence 3. 20. 23. _drawe the grewel thurgh straynour_. to boil. 2.17. as, _drawe hem up with gode brothe_. also 51. 74. to put, 14. 41. to make. 28. 47. as, _draw an almand mylke_. dee. 152. singular of dice, the fr. dè. v. quare. drepee. 19 a dish. qu. dates. 20. 52. 158. the fruit. dyssh. 24. dish. dessorre. 37. v. blank desire. doust. 45. alibi dust. dowhz. 50. dowh. 92. dow. ms. ed. ii. 29, dough, paste. a.s. [anglo-saxon: dah]. douce ame. 63. quast a delicious dish. v. blank desire. drope. 67. drop, to baste. ms. ed. 28. dorry. sowpes dorry, 82. sops endorsed. from _endore_, 187. ms. ed. 42, ii. 6. vide ad 174. deel. 113. 170. part, some. v. sum. chaucer. dicayn. 172. v. ad loc. dokks. as _sowre dokks_, 173. docks. dorryle. v. pomme. daryols. 183. a dish. a custard baked in a crust. hear junius, v. dairie. 'g. _dariole_ dicitur libi genus, quod iisdem gallis alias nuncupatur _laicteron_ vel _stan de laict_.' desne. v. blank desire. desire. v. blank. dressit. 194. dressed. dresse. ms. ed. 15. et passim. chaucer in voce. hence ydressy. ms. ed. ii. 18. dysis. ms. ed. 15. dice. v. quare. demembre, dimembre. ms. ed. 31. dismember. dows, douze. ms. ed. 50. ii. 21. drong. ms. ed. 54. drunk. e. e. with _e_ final after the consonant, for _ea_, as brede, bread; benes, beans; bete, beat; breke, break; creme, cream; clere, clear; clene, clean; mede, mead; mete, meat; stede, stead; whete, wheat; &c. e with _e_ final after the consonant, for _ee_, as betes, beets; chese, cheese; depe, deep; fete, feet; grene, green; nede, needful; swete, sweet. endorre. ms. ed. 42. endorse. ete. 103. eat. _eten_, 146. eaten. _etyn_. ms. ed. 3. a.s. [anglo-saxon: etan]. ms. ed. 48. oat. enforse. ms. ed. ii. 20. seasoned. erbes. 7. herbs; _herb's_, 63. _erbys_, 151. eerbis, 157. eyren, and ayren. 7, 8. 15. eyryn, s. ed. 1. eggs. 'a merchant at the n. foreland in kent asked for eggs, and the good wyf answerede, that she coude speak no frenshe--another sayd, that he wolde have _eyren_, then the good wyf sayd that she understood hym wel.' caxton's virgil, in lewis' life of caxton, p. 61. who notes 'see sewel's 'dictionary, v. _ey_.' add, urry's chaucer, v. aye and eye. note here the old plural _en_, that _eggs_ is sometimes used in our roll, and that in wicht _eye_, or _ey_ is the singular, and in the _germ_. see chaucer. v. _aie_, and _ay_. eowts. 6. v. ad loc. egurdouce. 21. v. ad loc. of fysshe, 133. egge dows, ms. ed. 50. malè. egerduse. ibid. ii. 1. our no. 58, is really an eagerdouce, but different from this here. a seville orange is aigre-douce. cotgrave. esy. 67. easy. eselich, 113. easily. chaucer. eny. 74. 173. any. elena campana. 78. i.e. enula campana, _elecampane_. erbowle. 95. a dish. v. ad loc. erbolat. 172. a dish. v. ad loc. eerys, eris. 177. 182. 55. ears. _eyr_. ms. ed. 44. chaucer has _ere_ and _eris_. elren. 171. elder. _eller_, in the north, without _d_. erne. 174. qu. euarund. ms. ed. 3. eelys. 101. eels. _elys_, _helys_. ms. ed. ii. 15. 24. _elis_. chaucer. f. forced. 3. farced, stuft. we now say, _forc'd-meat_, yfarced, 159, 160. _enforsed_. ms. ed. ii. 20. _fors_, 170. called _fars_, 150. it seems to mean _season_, no. 4. mixt. 4 where potage is said to be _forced_ with powdour-douce. fort. passim. strong. chaucer. fresee. ms. ed. 47. fenkel. 6. 77. _fenel_, 76. 172. _fenell_, 100. fennel. germ. venikol. belg. venckel. forme. proem. 95. forme. funges. 10. mushrooms, from the french. cotgrave. holme iii. p. 82. the romans were fond of them. fesants. 20. 35. fynelich wel. 192. very wel, constantly. fro. 22. ms. ed. 50. chaucer. from. so therfro. 53. lel. coll. iv. p. 266. chaucer. fleysch. 24. fleissh, 37. flesh, a.s. [anglo-saxon: þlæþe]. germ. _fleisc_. feneboyles. ms. ed. ii. 22. fyletts. 28. fillets. florish and flour. 36. 38. 40. garnish. lel. coll. vi. p. 17. 23. chaucer, v. floure. foyles. 49. rolled paste. _foyle of dowhz_, 50. 92. et per se, 148. 53. _foile of paste_, 163. leaves of sage, 161. chaucer. v. ad 175. hence carpe in foile. lel. coll. iv. p. 226. _a dolphin in foyle_, _a suttletie_. vi. p. 5. _lyng in foyle_, p. 16. _cunger_. ibid. _samon_. ibid. _sturgen_. p. 17. et v. p. 22. n.b. foyle in these cases means paste. fars. v. forced. fle. 53. flea, flaw. ms. ed. ii. 33. flawe, flein, flain, flawed. 10. 13. 15. fonnell. 62. a dish. frot. ms. ed. ii. 17. rub, shake, _frote_, chaucer. feyre. 66. ms. ed. ii. 18. 22. _feir_. chaucer. fair. ferthe. 68. fourth, hence ferthing or farthing. furmente. 69. 116. _furmenty_, ms. ed. i. _formete_. ibid. 48. _formenty_, ib. ii. 30. from lat. _frumentum_, per metathesin; whence called more plausibly _frumity_ in the north, and frumetye in lel. collect. iv. p. 226. vi. p. 5. 17. 22. but see junius, v. formetie. frenche. 73. a dish. v. ad loc. fest. ms. ii. 18. feast. chaucer. fygey. 89. because made of figs. fygs drawen. 103. ms. ed. ii. 3. found. 93. mix. dissolve, 193. fond. 188. v. y fonded. lye, in junii etym. v. founder. fete. 102. chaucer. fet, ms. ed. 44. feet. flaumpeyns. 113. 184. ferst. ms. ed. ii. 30. first. fanne. 116. to fan or winnow. a.s. [anglo-saxon: pann], vannus. frytour. 149, 150, 151. fruturs. ms. ed. 19. 40. fritters. _fruter_, lel. coll. iv. p. 227. frytor. vi. p. 17. flaunne. 163. flownys. ms. ed. ii. 27. fr. flans, custards. chaucer. v. slaunnis. et v. junium voce _flawn_. feel. 168. hold, contain, perhaps same as _feal_, occultare, abscondere, for which see junii etymol. fuyre. 188. fire. _fyr fort_. 192. a strong fire. _fere_, chaucer. _fyer_, lel. coll. iv. p. 296. belg. _vuyn_, _fere_. ms. ed. 58. ferry. v. cawdel. flowr, flowre. ms. ed. 2. 19. flour. fronchemoyle. ms. ed. 15. froys. ms. ed. 18. fraise. farsure. ms. ed. 28. stuffing. forsy. ms. ed. 38. season. g. gronden. 1. 53. ground or beaten. _to grynde_ is to cut or beat small. 3. 8. 13. for compare 14. yground 37. 53. 105. to pound or beat in a mortar. 3. ms. ed. 5. gode. no. 1. alibi, good, strong. chaucer. _god_, ms. ed. passim. grete. mynced. 2. not too small. _gretust_, 189. greatest. _gret_, ms. ed. 15. and chaucer. gourdes. 8. fr. gouhourde. gobettes. 16. 62. gobbettys, gobettis. ms. ed. 9. alibi. chaucer. _gobbins_, holme iii. p. 81, 82. large pieces. wiclif. junii etym. grees. 17. 101. grece, 18. alibi. ms. ed. 8. 14. 32. alibi, whyte grece, 18. fat, lard, conys of high grece. lel. coll. iv. p. 226. qu. gravey. 26, 27. _grave_. ms. ed. ii. 20. _gravy_. lel. coll. vi. p. 10. galyntyne. 28. 117. a preparation seemingly made of galingale, &c. 129. and thence to take its name. see a recipe for making it, 138. as also in ms. ed. 9. bread of galyntyne, 94. soupes of galyntyne, 129. lampervey in galantine. lel. coll. iv. p. 226. vi. p. 22. swanne, vi. p. 5. garlete and garlec. 30. 34. garlick. a.s. [anglo-saxon: garleac]. grapes. 30. 34. galyngale. 30. the powder, 47. the long-rooted cyperus. gl. to chaucer. see northumberland book, p. 415. gleyre. of ayrenn. 59. the white, from fr. glaire. chaucer. _lear_ or _leir_ of an egg. holme interprets it _the white beaten into a foam_. goon. 59. ms. ed. 1. go. belg. _gaen_. gylofre. 65. gelofre. ms. ed. 27. cloves; for see no. 30, 31. 40. there; from gr. [greek: charuophullon]. gyngawdry. 94. a dish. grave. ms. ed. ii. 20. gravey. gele. 101, 102. jelly. fr. gelée. gawdy grene. 112. perhaps, light green. gurnards. 115. greynes de parys. 137. and so chaucer, meaning _greynes de paradys_, or greater cardamoms. see dr. percy on northumb. book, p. 414. chaucer has _greines_ for _grains_. and belg. greyn. grate. 152. v. i or y grated. gastbon. 194. f. _gastbon_, quasi _wastbon_, from _wastel_ the finest bread, which see. hence the fr. gasteau. gyngynyr, gyngenyr, gyngyner, gyngener. ms. ed. 3, 4. 13. 24. ginger. gyngyner-bred, 32. grotys. ms. ed. ii. oat-meal grotes, i.e. grits. grydern, grydern, gredern. ms. ed. 25. 44. ii. 11. h. h. for _th_, as hem, them; her, their; passim. _hare_, 121. chaucer. wiclif. it is sometimes omitted; as _wyt_ and _wyte_, white. sometimes abounds, as schaldyd. ms. ed. 7. ii. scalded. v. _thowehe_. hye. proem. high. _hy_, ms. ed. 44. a.s. [anglo-saxon: heah]. hem. 1, 2. i.e. hem; them. lye in junii etym. hulle. 1. a verb, to take off the husk or skin. littleton. hence hulkes, husks or _hulls_, as 71. _holys_, ms. ed. 1. sax. helan, to cover. v. lye in junii etym. v. hull. hulkes. v. hulle. hewe. 7. cut, mince. _yhewe_, 12. minced, hewn. ms. ed. 6. 9. _hewin_, chaucer. a.s. [anglo-saxon: heþyan]. hakke. 194. ms. ed. 23. hack, bruise. junii etym. v. hack. ms. ed. has also _hak_ and _hac_. hebolace. 7. name of a dish. herdeles. ms. ed. 56. hurdles. hennes. 17. 45. including, i presume, the whole species, as _malard_ and _pekok_ do below. hool. 20. 22. alibi. _hole_, 33. 175. _hoole_, 158. whole. chaucer has hole, hool, and hoolich; and wiclif, _hole_ and _hool_. ms. ed. has _hol_ and _hole_. hooles. 162. holes. holsomly. proem, wholesomely. herthe. ms. ed. 57. earth. hit. 20. 98. 152. it. hytt. northumb. book, p. 440. _hit_, gloss. wiclif. in marg. a.s. [anglo-saxon: hit]. hoot. 21. alibi. hot. hares. 23. hoggepot. 31. v. ad loc. hochee. 34. hachè, fr. but there is nothing to intimate cutting them to pieces. hersyve. ms. ed. ii. 2. hair-sieve. _her_ is _hair_ in chaucer. helde. 50. 154. throw, cast, put. v. 189. _heelde_, poured, shed. wiclif. and lye in junii etym. v. held. holde. 189. make, keep. ms. ed. ii. 32, 33. hawtheen. 57. hawthorn. junius, v. haw. hatte. 59. bubling, wallop. quasi _the hot_, as in chaucer. from a.sax. [anglo-saxon: hatt]. hong. 67. hing, or hang. chaucer. ms. ed. 48. honde. 76. hand. chaucer. so in derbyshire now. heps. 84. fruit of the canker-rose. so now in derbyshire, and v. junius, voce _hippes_. hake. 94. 186. a fish. v. ad loc. hilde. 109. to skin, from to hull, to scale a fish, 119. vide 117. 119. compared with ms. ed. ii. 13. herons. 146. ms. ed. 3. holme, iii. p. 77, 78. but little used now. heronsew. lel. coll. iv. p. 226. _heronshawe_. vi. p. i. heronsews. chaucer. the poulterer was to have in his shop _ardeas sive airones_, according to mr. topham's ms. written about 1250. and _heronns_ appear at e. of devon's feast. holke. 173. qu. hollow. hertrowee. 176. a dish. _hert_ is _the hart_ in chaucer, a.s. [anglo-saxon: heort]. hi. ms. ed. 27. they. hevyd. ms. ed. 21. v. ad loc. hom. ms. ed. 56. home. i. i. 2. for e. proem. so _ith_ for _eth_. ibid. in. 30. et sæpius. in. _inne_, 37. alibi. jushell. 43. a dish. v. ad loc. is. plur. for es. 52. 73. proem. nomblys. ms. ed. 12. nombles. v. pees. rosys, 177, roses. i. for y. v. y. iowtes. v. eowtes. irne. 107. _iren_, chaucer. and the saxon. iron. juys. 118. 131. _jus_, ms. ed. ii. 17. the fr. word, _ieuse_, chaucer. k. kerve. 8. cut. _kerf_, 65. ms ed. 29. v. carvon, and chaucer, voc. carfe, karft, kerve, kerft. kydde. 21. flesh of a kid. kedys. ms. ed. 13. kids. keel. 29. 167. 188. ms. ed. 1. gl. to chaucer and wiclif, to cool. kyt. 118. alibi. ms. ed. 19. _ket_, ibid. ii. 15. to cut. _kyted_, cut. lel. coll. iv. p. 298. chaucer, v. _kitt_. keintlick. v. queintlick. kyrnels. 189. a species of battlements, from _kernellare_; for which see spelman, du fresne, and chaucer. kever. ms. ed. 2. cover. kaste, kest. ms. ed. 6. 10. cast. v. ad loc. kow. ms. ed. 38. cow. l. l. for ll. ms. ed. sæpe. lat. 9. 14. alibi. ms. ed. 1, 2. let. chaucer. belg. _laten. latyn_. ms. ed, ii. 5. _let_. lire, and lyre. 3. 14. 45. ms. ed. sæpe. the fleshy part of meat. a.s. [anglo-sxon: lire]. see lyre in junii etymol. also a mixture, as _dough of bread and raw eggs_, 15. hence 'drawe a lyre of brede, blode, vyneg, and broth,' 25. so lyour and layour. ii. 31. all from _lye_, which see. lay seems to mean _mix_, 31. as _layour_ is mixture, 94. lye it up. 15. to mix; as _alye_, which see. leke. in sing. 10. 76. leeks. langdebef. 6. an herb. v. ad loc. _longdobeefe_ northumberland book. p. 384. bugloss. lytel. 19. passim. _litul_ and _litull_, 104. 152. 'a litel of vynegar,' 118. of lard, 152. loseyns, losyns. 24. 92. on fish-day, 128. a lozenge is interpreted by cotgrave, 'a little square cake of preserved herbs, flowers, &c.' but that seems to have no concern here. _lozengs_. lel. coll. iv. p. 227. lyche. 152. like. _lichi_. wiclif. _lich_. chaucer. _ylich_. idem. lombe. 62. lamb. hence wiclif, _lomberen_, lambs. chaucer, and germ. leche lumbard. 65. from the country doubtless, as the mustard, no. 100. see also lel. coll. vi. p. 6. 26. _leches_. ms. ed. 15. are cakes, or pieces. rand. holme makes _leach_, p. 83. to be 'a kind of jelly made of cream, ising-glass, sugar, and almonds, &c.' the _lessches_ are fried, 158. v. yleeshyd. _leyse damask_. lel. coll. iv. p. 226. _leche baked_. vi. p. 5. _partriche leiche_. ibid. _leche damaske_. ibid. see also, p. 10. _leche florentine_, p. 17. _leche comfort_. ibid. _leche gramor_. ibid. leche cypres, p. 26. which in godwin de præsul. p. 697. is _sipers_, malè. lete lardes. 68. v. ad loc. lave. 76. wash. leyne. 82. a layer. lewe water. 98. lews water, ms. ed. ii. 10. warm; see gloss. to wiclif. and junius. v. lukewarm. lumbard mustard. 100. from the country. v. leche. how made, no. 145. lef. ms. ed. 56. leave. _lefe_, chaucer. lite. 104. a few, _alite_, as they speak in the north. chaucer, v. lite, and lyte, and mr. lye in his junius. laumpreys. 126. lampreys, an eel-like sea fish. pennant, brit. zool. iii. p. 68. laumprons. 127. the _pride_. pennant, ibid. p. 61. see lel. coll. vi. p. 6. 17. bis 23. mr. topham's ms. has _murenulas sive lampridulas_. looches, loches. 130. 133. the fish. lardes of swyne. 146. i.e. of bacon. hence _lardid_, 147. and _lardons_. ms. ed. 3. 43. from the fr. which cotgrave explains _slices of lard_, i.e. bacon. vide ad 68. lorere tre. ms. ed. 55. laurel tree. chaucer. lyuours. 152. livers. a.s. [anglo-saxon: lyper]. led. ms. ed. 56. carry. _lide_, chaucer. lenton. 158. lent. lynger. 159. longer. chaucer has _longer_ and _lengir_. v. lange. lopuster, lopister. ms. ed. ii. 7. 16. v. junii etymolog. lust. as, hym lust. proem, he likes. chaucer, v. lest. lewys. ms. ed. 41. leaves. lefe, chaucer. v. lef. lie. liquor. chaucer. ms. ed. 48. ley. ms. ed. 6. lay. lese, les. ms. ed, 14. ii. 7, 8. pick. to _lease_, in kent, is to glean. m. make. 7. ms. ed. 12. 43. ii. 12. to dress. _make forth_, 102. to do. ms. ed. ii. 35. monchelet. 16. a dish. mylk, melk. ms. ii. 30. milk of almonds, 1. 10. 13. alibi. moton. 16. ms. ed. 1. mutton, see lel. coll. iv. p. 226. flemish. _motoen_. mawmenee. 20. 193. a dish. v. ad loc. how made, 194. _mamane_. lel. coll. iv. p. 227. mamonie. vi. p. 17. 22. royal, 29. manmene, ms. ed. 29, 30. _mamenge_. e. of devon's feast. morterelys. v. mortrews. medle. 20. 50. alibi. to mix. wiclif. chaucer. messe. to messe the dysshes, 22. messe forth, 24. morre. 38. ms. ed. 37. ii. 26. a dish. v. ad loc. mortrews. 45. _mortrews blank_, 46. of fish, 125. _morterelys_, ms. ed. 5. where the recipe is much the same. 'meat made of boiled hens, crummed bread, yolk of eggs, and safron, all boiled together,' speght ad chaucer. so called, says skinner, who writes it _mortress_, because the ingredients are all pounded together in a mortar. moscels. 47. morsels. chaucer has _morcills_. moscels is not amiss, as _mossil_ in chaucer is the muzle or mouth. mete. 67. a.s. and chaucer. meat. _meetis_, proem. meats. it means also _properly_, ms. ed. ii. 21. chaucer. myng. 68. ms. ed. 30. _ming_, 76. meng, 127. 158. ms. ed. 32. chaucer. to mix. so _mung_, 192. is to stir. wiclif. v. mengyng. a.s. [anglo-saxon: mengan]. morow. at morow. 72. in the morning. ms. ed. 33. a morrow, chaucer. on the morow. lei. coll. iv. p. 234. makke. 74. a dish. meel, mele. 86. 97. meal. _melis_, meals. chaucer. belg. _meel_. macrows. 62. maccharone. vide ad locum. makerel. 106. muskles, muskels. 122. muscles. a.s. [anglo-saxon: murcule]. malard, maulard. 141. meaning, i presume, both sexes, as ducks are not otherwise noticed. holme, iii. p. 77. and mr. topham's ms. mylates, whyte. 153. a dish of pork, 155. myddell. 170. midle. _myddes_. 175. the same. mawe. 176. stomach of a swine. chaucer. junii etym. moold. 177. mould. maziozame. 191. marjoram. see the various orthographies in junius, v. majoram. male marrow. 195. qu. moyle. v. ris. v. fronchemoyle. mulberries. 99. 132. v. morree. myce, myse. ms. ed. 8. 15. mince, myed. ii. 19. minced, ymyed, 35. for ymyced. myney, ii. 3. myneyd, ii. 1. mo. ms. ed. 38. more. chaucer. maner. _of_ omitted. ms. ed. 45. 47, 48. ii. 2. 28. mad, ymad. ms. ed. ii. 9. made. mychil. ms. ed. 48, much. chaucer, v. moche. junius v. mickel. myntys. ms. ed. ii. 15. mint. _myntys_, brit. n. a nost, i. crasis of _an oste_, or kiln; frequent in kent, where _hop-oste_ is the kiln for drying hops. 'oost or east: the same that kiln or kill, somersetshire, and elsewhere in the west,' ray. so _brykhost_ is a brick-kiln in old parish-book of _wye_ in kent, 34 h. viii. 'we call _est_ or _oft_ the place in the house, where the smoke ariseth; and in some manors _austrum_ or _ostrum_ is that, where a fixed chimney or flew anciently hath been,' ley, in hearne's cur. disc. p. 27. _mannors_ here means, i suppose manor-houses, as is common in the north. hence _haister_, for which see northumb. book, p. 415. 417. and chaucer, v. estris. noumbles. 11. 13. entrails of any beast, but confined now to those of a deer. i suspect a crasis in the case, quasi _an umble_, singular for what is plural now, from lat. _umbilicus_. we at this day both say and write _umbles_. _nombles_, ms. ed. 12. where it is _nomblys of the venyson_, as if there were other nomblys beside. the fr. write nombles. non. 68. no. chaucer. a.s. [anglo-saxon: nan]. nyme. 114. take, _recipe_. sax. niman. chaucer. used in ms. ed. throughout. see junius. v. nim. notys. 144. wallenotes, 157. so _not_, ms. ed. ii. 30. chaucer. belg. note. nysebek. 173. a dish. quasi, nice for the _bec_, or mouth. nazt, nozt. ms. ed. 37. not. o. oynons. 2. 4. 7. fr. oignons. onions. orage. 6. orache. other, oother. 13, 14. 54. 63. ms ed. sæpe. chaucer. wiclif. a.s. [anglo-saxon: oþer]. or. on, oon. 14. 20. alibi. in. as in the saxon. _one_ ms. ed 58. ii. 21. chaucer. obleys. 24. a kind of wafer, v. ad loc. onys. ms. ed. 37. once, _ones_, chaucer, v. _atones_, and _ones_. onoward, onaward. 24. 29. 107. onward, upon it. of. omitted, as powder gynger, powder gylofre, powder galyngale. abounds, v. lytel. oot. 26. alibi. oat. otyn. ms. ed. ii. oaten. opyn. ms. ed. 28. open. offall. 143. _exta_, giblets. oystryn. ms. ed. ii. 14. oysters. of. proem. by. ochepot. v. hochepot. ovene. i. oven. a.s. [anglo-saxon: oren]. belg. oven. _0vyn_, ms. ed. ii. 16. olyve, de olyve, olyf, dolyf, ms. ed. olive. owyn. ms. ed. 22. own. p. plurals increase a syllable, almandys, yolkys, cranys, pecokys, &c. so now in kent in words ending in _st_. this is saxon, and so chaucer. plurals in _n_, pisyn, hennyn, appelyn, oystrin. powdon douce. 4. pref. powdon fort. 10, ii. v. pref. pasturnakes. 5. seems to mean _parsnips_ or carrots, from _pastinaca_. _pasternak of rasens_, 100. of apples, 149. means pastes, or paties. persel. 6. 29. alibi. _persele_ ms. ed. ii. 15. fr. _persil_. parsley. parcyle. ms. ed. 32. pyke, pike. 18. 76. pick. chaucer, v. pik. pluk. 76. pluck, pull. a.s. [anglo-saxon: pluccian]. pellydore. 19. v. ad loc. peletour. 104. v. ad 19. paast. ms. ed. ii. 29. paste. potell. 20. pottle. pyncs. 20. alibi, v. pref. pecys. 21. alibi. _pece_, 190. _pecis_, ms. ed. 12. chaucer. pieces, piece, i. peper. 21. 132. ms. ed. i6. has _pepyr_. pip. 140. 143. ms. ed. 9. _pepper_. a.s. [anglo-saxon: peopor] and [anglo-saxon: pipor]. papdele. 24. a kind of sauce. probably from _papp_, a kind of _panada_. pise, pisyn, ms. ed. 2. pease. peers. 130. 138. _pers_, 167. perys, ms. ed. ii. 23. pears. pery, a pear tree, chaucer. possynet. 30. 160. a posnet. partruches. 35. 147. _partyches_, contents. partridges. _perteryche_, e. of devon's feast. panne. 39. 50. a pan. a.s. [anglo-saxon: panna]. payndemayn. 60. 139. where it is _pared_. flour. 41. 162. 49, white bread. chaucer. par. ms. ed. 19. pare. peions. 18. 154. pigeons. if you take _i_ for _j_, it answers to modern pronunciation, and in e. of devon's feast it is written pejonns, and pyjonns. pynnonade. 51. from the pynes of which it is made. v. pynes. _pynade_ or _pivade_. ms. ed. ii. 32. pryk. 53. prick. pettels. 56. legs. we now say _the pestels of a lark_. of veneson, lel. collect. iv. p. 5. qu. a corruption of _pedestals_. payn foindew. 59. _fondew_, contents, v. ad loc. peskodde. 65. hull or pod of pease, used still in the north. v. coddis in wiclif, and coddes in junii etymolog. payn ragoun. 67. a dish. qu. payn puff, or puf. 196. _payne puffe_. e. of devon's feast. pownas. 68. a colour. qu. v. preface. porpays, porpeys. 69. 108. salted, 116. roasted, 78. _porpus_ or porpoise. _porpecia_, spelm. gl. v. geaspecia, which he corrects _seaspecia_. it is surprising he did not see it must be _graspecia_ or _craspiscis_, i.e. _gros_ or _crassus piscis_, any large fish; a common term in charters, which allow to religious houses or others the produce of the sea on their coasts. see du cange in vocibus. we do not use the porpoise now, but both these and seals occur in archb. nevill's feast. see rabelais, iv. c. 60. and i conceive that the _balænæ_ in mr. topham's ms. means the porpus. perrey. 70. v. ad loc. pesoun. 70, 71. _ pise, pisyn.,_ ms. ed. 2. pease. brit. _pysen._ partye. 71. _a partye,_ i.e. some. ms. ed. 2. chaucer. porrectes. 76. an herb. v. ad loc. purslarye. 76. purslain. pochee. 90. a dish of poached eggs, v. junius, voce _poach._ powche. 94. crop or stomach of a fish. _paunches,_ 114, 115. pyke. ici. the fish. v. ad loc. plays. 101. 105. 112. plaise; the fish. _places,_ lel. coll. vi. p.6. pelettes. 11. balls. pellets. pelotys. ms. ed. 16. paunch. v. powche. penne. 116. a feather, or pin. ms. ed. 28. wiclif. v. pennes. pekok. 147. peacock. _pekokys,_ ms. ed. 4. where same direction occurs. pekok. lel. coll. iv. p. 227. presse. 150. to press. chaucer. pyner. 155. qu. v. pref. prunes. 164. junius in v. _prunes and damysyns._. 167. _prunes damysyns_. 156. 158. _primes,_ 169. should be corrected _prunes._ prunys, ms. ed. ii. 17. _prognes._ lel. coll. vi. p. 17. _ prune orendge,_ an orange plumb, p. 23. _prones,_ northumb. book, p.19. plant it with prunes, 167. stick it, lel. coll. vi. p.5. 16 22. as the trade with damascus is mentioned in the preface, we need not wonder at finding the plumbs here. primes, v. prunes. prews of gode past. 176. qu. potews. 177. a dish named from the pots used. pety peruant. 195. _petypanel, a marchpayne._ lel. coll. vi. p.6. parade. hole parade. 195. qu. plater. ms. ed. ii. 9. platter. puff. v. payn. phitik. proem. physick. poumegarnet. 84. poungarnetts, ms. ed. 39. powmis gernatys. ibid. 27. pomgranates, per metathesin. penche. ms. ed. 36. partyns. ms. ed. 38. parts. pommedorry. ms. ed. 42. poundorroge, 58. _pomes endoryd_. e. of devon's feast. pommys morles. ms. ed. ii. 3. porreyne. ms. ed. ii. 17. porrey chapeleyn, 29. q. quare. 5. it seems to mean to quarter, or to square, to cut to pieces however, and may be the same as to _dyce_. 10. 60. dice at this time were very small: a large parcel of them were found under the floor of the hall of one of the temples, about 1764, and were so minute as to have dropt at times through the chinks or joints of the boards. there were near 100 pair of ivory, scarce more than two thirds as large as our modern ones. the hall was built in the reign of elizabeth. to _quare_ is from the fr. quarrer; and _quayre_ or _quaire_, subst. in chaucer, skelton, p. 91. 103. is a book or pamphlet, from the paper being in the quarto form. see annal. dunstap. p. 215, ames, typ. antiq. p. 3. 9. hence our quire of paper. the later french wrote _cahier_, _cayer_, for i presume this may be the same word. hence, _kerve hem to dyce_, into small squares, 12. _dysis_, ms. ed. 15. quybibes. 64. quibibz. ms. ed. 54. alibi. cubebs. quentlich. 162. keyntlich, 189. nicely, curiously. chaucer. v. _queintlie_. quayle. 162. perhaps, cool. it seems to mean fail or miscarry. lel. coll. vi. p. ii. sink or be dejected, p. 41. see junius, v. quail. queynchehe. 173. f. queynch. but qu. r. r. and its vowel are often transposed. v. bryddes, brennyng, crudds, poumegarnet, &c. rapes. 5. turneps. lat. _rapa_, or _rapum_. vide junium in voce. ryse. 9. 194. rys, 36. alibi. ms. ed. 14. ryys, 192. the flower, 37. rice. fr. ris. belg. riis. roo. 14. roe, the animal. rede. 21. alibi, red. a.s. [anglo-saxon: read]. roost. 30. alibi, rowsted, 175. substantive, 53. to rost. belg. roosten. rether. ms. ed. 43. a beast of the horned kind. ramme. 33. to squeeze. but qu. rennyns. 65. perhaps, _rennyng_, i. e. thin, from _renne_, to run. leland itin. i. p. 5, 6. alibi. skelton, p. 96. 143. alibi. indeed most of our old authors. lel. coll. iv. p. 287, 288. chaucer. ruayn. v. chese. rape. 83. a dish with no turneps in it. quære if same as _rapil_, holme iii. p. 78. rapy, ms. ed. 49. resmolle. 96. a dish. v. ad loc. ryal. 99. _ryallest_. proem. royal. lel. coll. iv. p. 250. 254. vi. p. 5. bis. 22. chaucer. v. rial. rote. 100. root. _rotys_, ms. ed. 32. chaucer. junius, v. root. roo broth. ms. ed. 53. roche. 103. the fish. lel. coll. vi. p. 6. rygh. 105. a fish. perhaps the ruffe. rawnes. 125. roes of fish. _lye_ in junius. v. roan. rest. ms. ed. rustied, of meat. restyn, restyng. no. 57. rustiness. junius. v. restie. rasyols. 152. a dish. _ransoles_. holme iii. p. 84. reyn. ms. ed. 57. rain. chaucer. rysshews. 182. name of a dish. qu. rew de rumsey. ms. ed. 44. ryne hem on a spyt. 187. run them on a spit. rosty. ms. ed. 44. rost. rounde. 196. round. french. rosee. 52. a dish. v. ad loc. resenns. 100. raysons, 114. raisins. used of currants, 14. v. ad loc. _reysons_, _reysins_. ms. ed. ii. 23. 42. _rassens_ pottage, is in the second course at archp. nevill's feast. s. spine. v. spynee. sue forth. 3. et passim. serue. 6. 21. from this short way of writing, and perhaps speaking, we have our _sewers_, officers of note, and _sewingeis_, serving, lel. coll. iv. p. 291. unless mis-written or mis-printed for _shewinge_. slype. ii. slip or take off the outer coat. a.s. [anglo-saxon: slipan]. skyrwates. 5. 149. skirrits or skirwicks. savory. 6. sauuay. 30. 63. sawey. 172. self. 13. same, made of itself, as self-broth, 22. the owne broth, 122. ms. ed. 5. 7. chaucer. seth. passim. ms. ed. i, 2. chaucer, to seeth. a.s. [anglo-saxon: seothan]. seyt. ms. ed. i. to strain. 25. 27. smite and smyte. 16. 21. 62. cut, hack. a.s. [anglo-saxon: smitan]. sode. v. ysode. storchion. ms. ed. ii. 12. v. fitz-stephen. p. 34. sum. 20. sumdell, 51. somdel, 171. some, a little, some part. chaucer has _sum_, and _somdele_. a.s. [anglo-saxon: sum]. saunders. 20. used for colouring. ms. ed. 34. v. northumb. book, p. 415. sandall wood. the translators of that very modern book the arabian nights entertainments, frequently have _sanders_ and sandal wood, as a commodity of the east. swyne. 146. alibi. pork or bacon. ms. ed. 3. bacon, on the contrary, is sometimes used for the animal. old plays, ii. p. 248. gloss. ad x script. in v. see. ms. ed. 56. sea. chaucer. sawge. 29. _sauge_, 160. ms. ed. 53. sage. _pigge en sage_. e. of devon's feast. shul. 146. schul. ms. ed. 4. should, as no. 147. schulle, schullyn. ms. ed. 3. 7. sawse madame. 30. qu. sauce. sandale. ms. ed. 34. sawse sarzyne. 84. v. ad loc. serpell. 140. wild thyme. _serpyllum_. sawse blancke. 136. sawse noyre. 137. 141. sawse verde. 140. sow. 30. to sew, _suere_. also 175. a.s. [anglo-saxon: siwian]. stoppe. 34. 48. to stuff. swyng. 39. 43. alibi. ms. ed. 20. 25. alibi. to shake, mix. a.s. [anglo-saxon: swengan]. sewe. 20. 29. 40. sowe. 30. 33. alibi. ms. ed. 38. chaucer. liquor, broth, sous. wiclif. a.s. [anglo-saxon: seaþ]. v. lye in 2d alphabet. schyms. ms. ed. 38. pieces. stondyng. 45, 46. 7. stiff, thick. smale. 53. alibi. small. lel. coll. iv. p. 194. spynee. 57. v. ad loc. straw. 58. strew. a.s. [anglo-saxon: streawian]. sklyse. 59. a slice, or flat stick for beating any thing. junius. v. sclise. siryppe. 64. v. ad loc. styne. 66. perhaps to close. v. ystyned. a.s. [anglo-saxon: tynan]. stere. 67. 145. to stir. chaucer. a.s. [anglo-saxon: styrian]. sithen. 68. ssithen, 192. then. chaucer. v. seth and sithe. a.s. [anglo-saxon: siððan]. sithtyn, sethe, seth, syth. ms. ed. _then_. salat. 76 a sallad. saladis, sallads. chaucer. junius, v. salad. slete soppes. 80. slit. a.s. [anglo-saxon: slitan]. spryng. 85. to sprinkle. wiclif. v. sprenge. a.s. [anglo-saxon: sprengan]. samoun. 98. salmon. so lel. coll. vi. p. 16, 17. fr. _saumon_. stepid. 109, 110. steeped, _frisiis_, stippen. sex. 113. 176. six. a.s. sool. 119. _solys_, 133. soale, the fish. schyl oysters. 121. to shell them. a.s. [anglo-saxon: scyll], a shell. sle. 126. to kill. _scle_, chaucer, and _slea_. a.s. [anglo-saxon: slean]. sobre sawse. 130. sowpes. 82. 129. sops. a.s. [anglo-saxon: sop]. dorry. ms. ed. ii. 6. spell. 140. qu. stary. ms. ed. 32. stir. swannes. 143. pye, 79. cygnets. lel. coll. vi. p. 5. sonne. ms. ed. 56. sun. chaucer. sarse, and _a sarse_. 145. a sieve or searse. souple. 152. supple. _sople_, chaucer; also _souple_. fr. stewes. 157. 170. liquor. to stue, 186. a term well known at this day. sars. 158. 164. error perhaps for _fars_. 167. 169. 172. sawcyster. 160. perhaps, a saussage. from fr. _saucisse_. soler. ms. ed. 56. a solar or upper floor. chaucer. sawgeat. 161. v. ad loc. skymour. 162. a skimmer. salwar. 167. v. calwar. sarcyness. ms. ed. 54. v. sawse. syve, seve. ms. ed. ii. 17, 18. a sieve, v. hersyve. southrenwode. 172. southernwood. sowre. 173. sour. _souir_, chaucer. stale. 177. stalk. handle. used now in the north, and elsewhere; as a fork-stale; quære a crasis for a fork's tail. hence, shaft of an arrow. lel. coll. vi. p. 13. chaucer. a.s. [anglo-saxon: stele], or [anglo-saxon: stela]. spot. ms. ed. 57. sprinkle. sachus. 178. a dish. v. ad loc. sachellis. 178. bags. satchells. spynoches. 180. spinages. fr. espinars in plural. but we use it in the singular. ital. spinacchia. sit. 192. adhere, and thereby to burn to it. it obtains this sense now in the north, where, after the potage has acquired a most disagreeable taste by it, it is said to be _pot-sitten_, which in kent and elsewhere is expressed by being _burnt-to_. sotiltees. proem. suttlety. lel. coll. vi. p. 5. seq. see no. 189. there was no grand entertainment without these. lel. coll. iv. p. 226, 227. vi. 21. seq. made of sugar and wax. p. 31. and when they were served, or brought in, _at first_, they seem to have been called _warners_, lel. coll. vi. p. 21. 23. vi. p. 226, 227. as giving _warning_ of the approach of dinner. see notes on northumb. book, p. 422, 423. and mr. pennant's brit. zool. p. 496. there are three _sotiltes_ at the e. of devon's feast, a stag, a man, a tree. quere if now succeeded by figures of birds, &c. made in lard, and jelly, or in sugar, to decorate cakes. sewyng. proem. following. leland coll. iv. p. 293. chaucer. fr. _suivre_. spete. ms. ed. 28. spit. made of hazel, 58. as virg. georg. ii. 396. states. proem. persons. scher. ms. ed. 25. sheer, cut. chaucer. v. shere. schyveris. ms. ed. 25. ii. 27. shivers. chaucer. v. slivere. schaw. ms. ed. 43. shave. t. thurgh. 3. alibi. thorough. a.s. [anglo-saxon: ðurh]. _thorw_. ms. ed. ii. tansey. 172. herb, vide junii etymol. trape, traup. 152. alibi. pan, platter, dish. from fr. to gedre. 14. to gydre, 20. to gyder, 39. to geyder, 53. to gider, 59. to gyd, 111. to gedre, 145. so variously is the word _together_ here written. a.s. [anglo-saxon: togaðere]. tredure. 15. name of cawdel. v. ad loc. to. 30. 17. ms. ed. 33. 42. too; and so the saxon, hence to to. 17. v. ad loc. also, lel. coll. iv. p. 181. 206. vi. p. 36. _to_ is _till_, ms. ed. 26. 34. _two_. ii. 7. v. unto. thyk. 20. a verb, to grow thick, as no. 67. thicken taken passively. adjective, 29. 52. _thik_, 57. _thykke_, 85. _thike_, chaucer. teyse. 20. to pull to pieces with the fingers. v. ad loc. et junius, voce tease. hence teasing for carding wool with teasels, a specics of thistle or instrument. talbotes. 23. qu. v. ad loc. tat. 30. that. as in derbysh. _who's tat?_ for, who is that? belg. _dat_. thenne. 36. alibi. then. chaucer. a.s. [anglo-saxon: ðanne]. thanne. 36. ms. ed. 25. then. a.s. [anglo-saxon: ðan]. than. ms. ed. 14. teer. 36. tear. a.s. [anglo-saxon: teran]. to fore. 46. alibi. before. hence our _heretofore_. wiclif. chaucer. a.s. [anglo-saxon: toforan]. thynne. 49. ms. ed. 15. thin. a.s. [anglo-saxon: ðinn]. tarlettes. 50. afterwards _tartletes_, rectiùs; and so the contents. _tortelletti_. holme. p. 85. v. tartee. godwin, de præsul. p. 695. renders _streblitæ_; et v. junius, voce tart. thise. 53. alibi. these. take. 56. taken. chaucer. thridde. 58. 173. alibi. third, per metathesin. chaucer. thriddendele, 67. thriddel, 102. 134. _thredde_, ms. ed. ii. 1. v. junius, voce thirdendeal. to done. 68. done. _to_ seems to abound, vide chaucer. v. _to_. turnesole. 68. colours _pownas_. vide ad loc. ther. 70. 74. they. chaucer. ton tressis. 76. an herb. i amend it to _ton cressis_, and explain it cresses, being the saxon [anglo-saxon: tunkerse], or [anglo-saxons: tuncærse]. see _lye_, dict. sax. cresses, so as to mean, _one of the cresses_. turbut. 101. tried out. 117. drawn out by roasting. see junius, v. try. tweydel. 134. twey, ms. ed. 12. chaucer. _twy_ for _twice_ runs now in the north. a.s. [anglo-saxon: twa], two. [anglo-saxon dæl], pars, portio. talow. 159. mutton sewet. v. junii etym. thyes, thyys. ms. ed. 29, 30. thighs. tartee. 164, 165. alibi. tart. de bry, 166. de brymlent, 117. tartes of flesh, 168. of fish, 170. v. tarlettes. towh. tough, thick. 173. see chaucer, v. tought. a.s. [anglo-saxon: toh]. tharmys. ms. ed. 16. rops, guts. there. 170. 177 where. chaucer. thowche. ms. ed. 48. touch. to. 185. for. hence, _wherto_ is _wherefore_. chaucer. towayl. ms. ed. ii. 21. a towel. thee. 189. thou, as often now in the north. temper. ms. ed. 1. et sæpe. to mix. u. uppon. 85. alibi. upon. urchon. 176. urchin, _erinaceus_. unto. ms. ed. 2. until. v. _to_. chaucer. v. violet. 6. v. ad loc. verjous. 12. 48. veriaws. 154. verious. 15. verjuice, fr. verjus. v. junium. veel. 16. alibi. ms. ed. 18. veal. vessll. 29. a dish. vyne grace. 61. a mess or dish. _grees_ is the wild swine. plott, hist. of staff. p. 443. gloss. to douglas' virgil, v. grisis. and to chaucer. v. grys. thoroton, p. 258. blount, tenures. p. 101. _gresse_. lel. coll. iv. p. 243. _gres_. 248. both pork and wine enter into the recipe. vyaunde cypre. 97. from the isle of cyprus. vernage. 132. vernaccia. a sort of italian white-wine. in pref. to _perlin_, p. xix. mis-written vervage. see chaucer. it is a sweet wine in a ms. of tho. astle esq. p. 2. venyson. 135. often eaten with furmenty, e. of devon's feast, _in brothe_. ibid. verde sawse. 140. it sounds _green sauce_, but there is no sorel; sharp, sour sauce. see junius, v. verjuice. vervayn. 172. w. wele. 1. 28. old pronunciation of _well_, now vulgarly used in derbysh. _wel_, 3. alibi. _wel smale_, 6. very small. v. lel. coll. iv. p. 218. 220. hearne, in spelm. life of ælfred. p. 96. wyndewe. 1. winnow. this pronunciation is still retained in derbyshire, and is not amiss, as the operation is performed by wind. v. omnino, junius. v. winnow. wayshe, waissh, waische. 1. 5. 17. to wash. a.s. [anglo-saxon: wæscan]. whane, whan. 6. 23. 41. when. so sir tho. elliot. v. britannia. percy's songs, i. 77. ms. romance of sir degare vers. 134. a.s. [anglo-saxon: hwænne]. wan, wanne. ms. ed. 25. 38. when. wole. proem. will. _wolt_. 68. wouldst. chaucer, v. wol. warly, warliche. 20. 188. gently, warily. a.s. [anglo-saxon: wære], wary, prudent. chaucer. v. ware. junius, v. warie. wafrouns. 24. wafers. junius, v. wafer. with inne. 30. divisim, for within. so _with oute_, 33. welled. 52. v. ad loc. ms. ed. 23. wete. 67. 161. wet, now in the north, and see chaucer. a.s. [anglosaxon: wæt]. wry. 72. to dry, or cover. junius, v. wrie. wyn. ms. ed. 22. alibi. wine. v. wyneger. wryng thurgh a straynour. 81. 91. thurgh a cloth, 153. almandes with fair water, 124. wryng out the water. ibid. wryng parsley up with eggs, 174. chaucer, voce wrong, ywrong, and wrang. junius, v. wring. womdes, wombes. 107. quære the former word? perhaps being falsely written, it was intended to be obliterated, but forgotten, _wombes_ however means _bellies_, as ms. ed. 15. see junius, voce _womb_. wyneger. ms. ed. 50. vinegar. v. wyn. wone. 107. _a deal_ or _quantity_. chaucer. it has a contrary sense though in junius, v. whene. whete. 116. wete. ms. ed. 1. ii. 30. wheat. a.s. [anglo-saxon: hwæte]. wastel. 118. white bread. _yfarced_, 159. of it. ms. ed. 30. ii. 18. gloss. ad x script. v. simenellus. chaucer; where we are referred to verstegan v. but _wassel_ is explained there, and not _wastel_; however, see stat. 51 henry iii. hoveden, p. 738. and junius' etymol. wheyze. 150. 171. whey. a.s. [anglo-saxon: hwæz]. serum lactis. g often dissolving into y. v. junium, in y. wynde it to balles. 152. make it into balls, turn it. chaucer. v. wende. junius, v. winde. wallenotes. 157. walnuts. see junius, in voce. wose of comfrey. 190. v. ad loc. juice. wex. ms. ed. 25. wax. were. ms. ed. 57. where. y. y. is an usual prefix to adjectives and participles in our old authors. it came from the saxons; hence ymynced, minced; yslyt, slit; &c. _i_ is often substituted for it. v. gloss. to chaucer, and lye in jun. etym. v. i. it occurs perpetually for _i_, as ymynced, yslyt, &c. and so in ms. editoris also. written z. 7. 18. alibi. used for _gh_, 72. ms. ed. 33. chaucer. v. z. hence ynouhz, 22. enough. so ms. ed. passim. quere if _z_ is not meant in mss for g or _t_ final. dotted, [anglo-saxon: y(1)], after saxon manner, in ms. ed. as in mr. hearne's edition of robt. of gloucester. ycorve. 100, 101. cut in pieces. icorvin, 133. gloss. to chaucer. v. _icorvin_, and _throtycorve_. zelow. 194. _yolow_. ms. ed. 30. yellow. a.s. [anglo-saxon: zealuwe] and [anglo-saxon: zelew]. yolkes. 18. i. e. of eggs. junius, v. yelk. ygrond. v. gronden. yleesshed. 18. cut it into slices. so, _lesh_ it, 65. 67. _leach_ is to slice, holme iii. p. 78. or it may mean to _lay in the dish_, 74. 81. or distribute, 85. 117. ynouhz. 22. ynowh, 23. 28. ynowh, 65. ynow. ms. ed. 32. enough. chaucer has _inough_. yfer. 22. 61. id est _ifere_, together. _feer_, a companion. wiclif, in _feer_ and _scukynge feer_. chaucer. v. fere, and yfere. junius, v. yfere. yfette. proem. put down, written. yskaldid. 29. scalded. ysode. 29. _isode_, 90. _sodden_, 179. boiled. ms. ed. ii. 11. chaucer. all from to seeth. ysope. 30. 63. ysop. ms. ed. 53. the herb hyssop. chaucer. v. isope. yforced. v. forced. yfasted. 62. qu. zif, zyf. ms. ed. 37. 39. if. also give, ii. 9. 10. ystyned, istyned. 162. 168. to _styne_, 66. seems to mean to close. yteysed. 20. pulled in pieces. v. ad loc. and v. tease. ypaunced. 62. perhaps pounced, for which see chaucer. yfonndred. 62. _ifonded_, 97. 101. _yfondyt_, 102. poured, mixed, dissolved. v. _found_. fr. fondu. yholes. 37. perhaps, hollow. ypared. 64. pared. ytosted, itosted. 77. 82. toasted. iboiled. 114. boiled. yest. 151. junius, v. yeast. igrated. 153. grated. ybake. 157. baked. ymbre. 160. 165. ember. ypocras. how made, 191. hippocras. wafers used with it. lel. coll. iv. p. 330. vi. p. 5, 6. 24. 28. 12. and dry toasts, rabelais iv. c. 59. _joly ypocras_. lel. coll. iv. p. 227. vi. p. 23. bishop godwin renders it _vinum aromaticum_. it was brought both at beginning of splendid entertainments, if apicius is to be underslood of it. lib. i. c. 1. see lister, ad loc. and in the middle before the second course; lel. coll. iv. p. 227. and at the end. it was in use at st. john's coll. cambr. 50 years ago, and brought in at christmas at the close of dinner, as anciently most usually it was. it took its name from _hippocrates' sleeve_, the bag or strainer, through which it was passed. skinner, v. claret; and chaucer. or as junius suggests, because strained _juxta doctrinam hippocratis_. the italians call it _hipocrasso_. it seems not to have differed much from _piment_, or pigment (for which see chaucer) a rich spiced wine which was sold by vintners about 1250. mr. topham's ms. hippocras was both white and red. rabelais, iv. c. 59. and i find it used for sauce to lampreys. ibid. c. 60. there is the process at large for making ypocrasse in a ms. of my respectable friend thomas astle, esq. p. 2. which we have thought proper to transcribe, as follows: 'to make ypocrasse for lords with gynger, synamon, and graynes sugour, and turefoll: and for comyn pepull gynger canell, longe peper, and claryffyed hony. loke ye have feyre pewter basens to kepe in your pouders and your ypocrasse to ren ynne. and to vi basens ye muste have vi renners on a perche as ye may here see. and loke your poudurs and your gynger be redy and well paryd or hit be beton in to poudr. gynger colombyne is the best gynger, mayken and balandyne be not so good nor holsom.... now thou knowist the propertees of ypocras. your poudurs must be made everyche by themselfe, and leid in a bledder in store, hange sure your perche with baggs, and that no bagge twoyche other, but basen twoyche basen. the fyrst bagge of a galon, every on of the other a potell. fyrst do in to a basen a galon or ij of redwyne, then put in your pouders, and do it in to the renners, and so in to the seconde bagge, then take a pece and assay it. and yef hit be eny thyng to stronge of gynger alay it withe synamon, and yef it be strong of synamon alay it withe sugour cute. and thus schall ye make perfyte ypocras. and loke your bagges be of boltell clothe, and the mouthes opyn, and let it ren in v or vi bagges on a perche, and under every bagge a clene basen. the draftes of the spies is good for sewies. put your ypocrase in to a stanche wessell, and bynde opon the mouthe a bleddur strongly, then serve forthe waffers and ypocrasse.' addenda. [ the addenda have been placed above within the text where appropriate, labeled "addenda:". ] advertisement. since the foregoing sheets were printed off, the following very curious rolls have happily fallen into the editor's hand, by the favour of john charles brooke, esq. somerset herald. they are extracted from a ms. belonging to the family of nevile of chevet, near wakefield, com. ebor. and thence copied, under the direction of the rev. richard kay, d.d. prebendary of durham. these rolls are so intimately connected with our subject, as exhibiting the dishes of which our roll of _cury_ teaches dressing and preparation, that they must necessarily be deemed a proper appendix to it. they are moreover amusing, if not useful, in another respect; _viz_. as exhibiting the gradual prices of provisions, from the dates of our more ancient lists, and the time when these rolls were composed, in the reign of henry viii. for the further illustration of this subject, and extract from the old account-book of _luton_, 19 _hen_. viii is super-added; where the prices of things in the south, at the same period, may be seen. and whoever pleases to go further into this matter of _prices_, may compare them with the particulars and expence of a dinner at stationer's-hall, a.d. 1556. which appeared in the st. james's chronicle of april 22, 1780. we cannot help thinking that, upon all accounts, the additions here presented to our friends must needs prove exceedingly acceptable to them. rolls of provisions, with their prices, dishes, &c. temp. h. viii. the marriage of my son-in-law gervas[1] clifton and my daughter mary nevile, the 17th day of january, in the 21st year of the reigne of our soveraigne lord king henry the viiith. l s d first, for the apparell of the said gervys clifton and mary nevill, 21 yards of russet damask, every yard 8s[2], 7 14 8 item, 6 yards of white damask, every yard 8s. 48 0 item, 12 yards of tawney camlet, every yard 2s. 8d[3]. 49 4 item, 6 yards of tawney velvet, every yard 14s. 4 4 0 item, 2 rolls of buckrom, 0 6 0 item, 3 black velvet bonnits for women, every bonnit 17s. 51 0 item, a fronslet[4] of blue velvet, 0 7 6 item, an ounce of damask gold[5], 0 4 0 item, 4 laynes[6] of frontlets, 0 2 8 item, an eyye[7] of pearl, 24 0 item, 3 pair of gloves, 0 2 10 item, 3 yards of kersey; 2 black, 1 white, 0 7 0 item, lining for the same, 0 2 0 item, 3 boxes to carry bonnits in, 0 1 0 item, 3 pasts[8], 0 0 9 item, a furr of white lusants[9], 40 0 item, 12 whit heares[10], 12 0 item, 20 black conies, 10 0 item, a pair of myllen[11] sleves of white sattin, 0 8 0 item, 30 white lamb skins, 0 4 0 item, 6 yards of white cotton, 0 3 0 item, 2 yards and 1/2 black sattin, 0 14 9 item, 2 girdles, 0 5 4 item, 2 ells of white ribon, for tippets, 0 1 1 item, an ell of blue sattin, 0 6 8 item, a wedding ring of gold, 0 12 4 item, a millen bonnit, dressed with agletts, 0 11 0 item, a yard of right white sattin, 0 12 0 item, a yard of white sattin of bridge[12], 0 2 4 the expence of the dinner, at the marriage of said gervys clifton and mary nevile. imprimis, three hogsheads of wine, 1 white, 1 red, 1 claret 5 5 0 item, 2 oxen, 3 0 0 item, 2 brawns[13], 1 0 0 item, 2 swans[14], every swan 2 s, 0 12 0 item, 9 cranes[15], every crane 3 s. 4d. 1 10 0 item, 16 heron sews[16], every one 12 d. 0 16 0 item, 10 bitterns, each 14d. 0 11 8 item, 60 couple of conies, every couple 5d, 25 0 item, as much wild-fowl, and the charge of the same, as cost 3 6 8 item, 16 capons of grease[17], 0 16 0 item, 30 other capons, 0 15 0 item, 10 pigs, every one 5d. 0 4 2 item, 6 calves, 0 16 0 item, 1 other calf, 0 3 0 item, 7 lambs, 0 10 0 item, 6 withers[18], ever wither 2s. 4d. 0 14 0 item, 8 quarters of barley[19] malt, every quarter 14s. 5 10 0 item, 3 quarters of wheat, every quarter 18 s. 54 0 item, 4 dozen of chickens , 0 6 0 besides butter, eggs, verjuice, and vinegar in spices as followeth. two loaves of sugar[20], weighing 16 lb. 12 oz. at 7d. per lb. 0 9 9 item, 6 pound of pepper, every pound 22d. 0 11 0 item, 1 pound of ginger, 0 2 4 item, 12 pound of currants, every pound 3 2d 0 3 6 item, 12 pound of proynes[21], every pound 2d. 0 2 0 item, 2 lb. of marmalet, 0 2 1 item, 2 poils[22] of sturgeon, 0 12 4 item, a barrell for the same, 0 0 6 item, 12 lb. of dates, every lb. 4d. 0 4 0 item, 12 lb of great raisons[23], 0 2 0 item, 1 lb. of cloves and mace, 0 8 0 item, 1 quarter of saffron, 0 4 0 item, 1 lb. of tornself[24], 0 4 0 item, 1 lb. of ising-glass, 0 4 0 item, 1 lb. of biskitts, 0 1 0 item, 1 lb. of carraway seeds, 0 1 0 item, 2 lb of cumfitts, 0 2 0 item, 2 lb. of torts[25] of portugal, 0 2 0 item, 4 lb. of liquorice and anniseeds, 0 1 0 item, 3 lb. of green ginger, 0 4 0 item, 3 lb. of suckets[26], 0 4 0 item, 3 lb. of orange buds, 4 s. 0 5 4 item, 4 lb. of oranges in syrup, 0 5 4 ---------- totall l. 61 8 8 ----------[footnote 1: gervas] below _gervys_. so unsettled was our orthography, even in the reign of henry viii. so _nevile_, and below _nevill_. mary, third daughter of sir john nevil of chever, was first wife of sir gerv. clifton of clifton, com. nott. knight.] [footnote 2: 8s.] the sum is l. 7. 14 s. 8 d. but ought to be l. 8. 8s. so that there is some mistake here. _n.b_. this manuscript is given in our common figures; but the original, no doubt, is in the roman.] [footnote 3: 2s. 8d.] this again is wrongly computed. there may be other mistakes of the same kind, which is here noted once for all; the reader will easily rectify them himself.] [footnote 4: fronslet.] f. frontlet, as lin. 10.] [footnote 5: damask gold.] gold of damascus, perhaps for powder.] [footnote 6: laynes.] qu.] [footnote 7: eyye.] f. egg.] [footnote 8: pasts.] pastboards.] [footnote 9: lusants.] qu.] [footnote 10: heares]. f. hares.] [foornote 11: myllen], _milan_, city of lombardy, whence our _millaner_, now _milliner_, written below _millen_.] [footnote 12: bridge]. brugge, or bruges, in flanders.] [footnote 13: brawns]. the boar is now called a brawn in the north, vid. p. 126.] [footnote 14: 2 swans]. f. 6 swans.] [footnote 15: cranes]. v. p. 67.] [footnote 16: heron sews]. in one word, rather. see p. 139.] [footnote 17: of grease]. i presume fatted.] [footnote 18: withers]. weathers.] [footnote 19: barley malt]. so distinguished, because wheat and oats were at this time sometimes malted. see below, p. 172.] [footnote 20: loaves of sugar]. so that they now had a method of refining it, v. p. xxvi.] [footnote 21: proynes]. prunes, v. p. 148.] [footnote 22: poils]. misread, perhaps, for joils, _i.e._ jowls.] [footnote 23: great raisons, ] v. p. 38.] [footnote 24: tornselt]. turnfole, v. p. 38.] [footnote 25: torts]. qu.] [footnote 26: suckets]. these, it seems, were sold ready prepared in the shops. see the following rolls.] sir john nevile, of chete, knight. the marriage of my son-in-law, roger rockley[1], and my daughter elizabeth nevile, the 14th of january, in the 17th year of the reigne of our soveraigne lord king henry the viiith. l s d first, for the expence of their apparel, 22 yards of russet sattin, at 8s. per yard, 8 16 0 item, 2 mantilles of skins, for his gown, 48 0 item, 2 yards and 1/2 of black velvet, for his gown, 0 30 0 item, 9 yards of black sattin, for his jacket and doublet, at 8s. the yard, 3 12 0 item, 7 yards, of black sattin, for her kertill, at 8 s. per yard, 56 0 item, a roll of buckrom, 0 2 8 item, a bonnit of black velvet, 0 15 0 item, a frontlet for the same bonnit, 0 12 0 item, for her smock, 0 5 0 item, for a pair of perfumed gloves, 0 3 4 item, for a pair of other gloves, 0 0 4 second day. item, for 22 yards of tawney camlet, at 2s. 4d. per yard, 51 4 item, 3 yards of black sattin, for lining her gown, at 8s per yard, 24 0 item, 2 yards of black velvet, for her gown, 30 0 item, a roll of buckrom, for her gown, 0 2 8 item, 7 yards of yellow sattin bridge[2], at 2 s. 4d. per yard, 26 4 item, for a pair of hose, 0 2 4 item, for a pair of shoes, 0 1 4 ---------- sum l. 27 8 0 ----------item, for dinner, and the expence of the said marriage of roger rockley, and the said elizabeth nevile. imprimis, eight quarters of barley-malt, at 10s. per quarter, 4 0 0 item, 3 quarters and 1/2 of wheat, at 14s. 4d. per quarter, 56 8 item, 2 hogheads of wine, at 40s. 4 0 0 item, 1 hogshead of read wine, at 0 40 0 ---------- sum total l. 39 8 0 ---------- for the first course at dinner. imprimis, brawn with musterd, served alone with malmsey. item, frumety[3] to pottage. item, a roe roasted for standert[4]. item, peacocks, 2 of a dish. item, swans 2 of a dish. item, a great pike in a dish. item, conies roasted 4 of a dish. item, venison roasted. item, capon of grease, 3 of a dish. item, mallards[5], 4 of dish. item, teals, 7 of a dish. item, pyes baken[6], with rabbits in them. item, baken orange. item, a flampett[7]. item, stoke fritters[8]. item, dulcets[9], ten of dish. item, a tart. second course. first, marterns[10] to pottage. item for a standert, cranes 2 of a dish. item, young lamb, whole roasted. item, great fresh sammon gollis[11]. item, heron sues, 3 of a dish. item, bitterns, 3 of a dish. item, pheasants, 4 of a dish. item, a great sturgeon poil. item, partridges, 8 of a dish. item, plover, 8 of dish. item, stints[12]., 8 of a dish. item, curlews[13], 3 of a dish. item, a whole roe, baken. item, venison baken, red and fallow[14]. item, a tart. item, a march[15] payne. item, gingerbread. item, apples and cheese scraped with sugar and sage. for night. first a play, and straight after the play a mask, and when the mask was done then the banckett[16], which was 110 dishes, and all of meat; and then all the gentilmen and ladys danced; and this continued from the sunday to the saturday afternoon. the expence in the week for the flesh and fish for the same marriage. imprimis, 2 oxen, 3 0 0 item, 2 brawns, 22 0 item, 2 roes 10s and for servants going, 5s. 0 15 0 item, in swans, 0 15 0 item, in cranes 9, 30 0 item, in peacocks 12, 0 16 0 item, in great pike, for flesh dinner, 6, 30 0 item, in conies, 21 dozen, 5 5 0 item, in venison, red deer hinds 3, and fetching them, 0 10 0 item, fallow deer does 12 - - -item, capons of grease 72, 3 12 0 item, mallards and teal, 30 dozen, 3 11 8 item, lamb 3, 0 4 0 item, heron sues, 2 doz. 24 0 item, shovelords[17], 2 doz. 24 0 item, in bytters[18] 12, 16 0 item, in pheasants 18, 24 0 item, in partridges 40, 0 6 8 item, in curlews 18, 24 0 item, in plover, 3 dozen, 0 5 0 item, in stints, 5 doz. 0 9 0 item, in surgeon, 1 goyle[19], 0 5 0 item, 1 seal[20], 0 13 4 item, 1 porpose[21], 0 13 4 ---------- l. for frydays and saturdays. first, leich brayne[22]. item, frometye pottage. item, whole ling and huberdyne[23]. item, great goils [24] of salt sammon. item, great salt eels. item, great salt sturgeon goils item, fresh ling. item, fresh turbut. item, great pike[25]. item, great goils of fresh sammon. item, great ruds[26]. item, baken turbuts. item, tarts of 3 several meats[27]. second course first, martens to pottage. item, a great fresh stugeon goil. item, fresh eel roasted. item, great brett. item, sammon chines broil'd. item, roasted eels. item, roasted lampreys. item, roasted lamprons[28]. item, great burbutts[29]. item, sammom baken, item, fresh eel baken. item, fresh lampreys, baken. item, clear jilly[30]. item, gingerbread. waiters at the said marriage. storrers, carver. mr. henry nevile, sewer. mr. thomas drax, cupbearer. mr. george pashlew, for the sewer-board end. john merys, \ marshalls. john mitchill, / robert smallpage, for the cupboard. william page, for the celler, william barker, for the ewer, robert sike the younger, and john hiperon, for butterye. to wait in the parlour. richard thornton. edmund north. robert sike the elder. william longley. robert live. william cook. sir john burton, steward. my brother stapleton's servant. my son rockley's servant to serve in the slate. [footnote 1: rockley]. elizabeth eldest daughter of sir john nevile, married, roger eldest son, and afterwards heir, of sir thomas rockley of rockley, in the parish of worsborough, knight.] [footnote 2: bridge]. see above, p. 167, note [2].] [footnote 3: frumety]. v. p. 135.] [footnote 4: standert]. a large or standing dish. see p. 174. l. 3.] [footnote 5: mallards]. v. p. 144.] [footnote 6: baken]. baked.] [footnote 7: flampett]. f. flaunpett, or flaumpeyn, v. p. 136.] [footnote 8: stoke fritters ]. baked on a hot-iron, used still by the brewers, called a stoker.] [footnote 9: dulcets]. qu.] [footnote 10: marterns]. qu. it is written martens, below.] [footnote 11: gollis]. f. jowls.] [footnote 12: stints]. the stint, or purre, is one of the sandpipers. pennant, brit. zool, ii. 374.] [footnote 13: curlews]. see above, p. 130. and below. curlew knaves, also below.] [footnote 14: fallow]. if i remember right, dr. goldman, says, fallow-deer were brought to us by king james i. but see again below, more than once.] [footnote 15: march payne]. a kind of cake, very common long after this time, v. below.] [footnote 16: banckett]. banquet.] [footnote 17: shovelords]. shovelers, a species of the wild duck. shovelards, below.] [footnote 18: bytters]. bitterns, above; but it is often written without _n_, as below.] [footnote 19: goyle]. jowl, v. above, p. 174. l. 5.] [footnote 20: seal]. one of those things not eaten now; but see p. 147 above, and below, p. 180. l. 6.] [footnote 21: porpose]. v. p. 147, above.] [footnote 22: leich brayne] v. p. 141, above, but qu. as to brayne.] [footnote 23: huberdyne]. miswritten for haberdine, i.e. from aberdeen; written below heberdine.] [footnote 24: goils]. v. above, p. 174. l. 5.] [footnote 25: pyke]. v. above, p. 50. and below, often.] [footnote 26: ruds]. qu. roaches, v. below.] [footnote 27: meats]. viands, but not fleshmeats.] [footnote 28: lamprons]. v. p. 142. above.] [footnote 29: burbatts]. qu. turbuts.] [footnote 30: jilly]. jelly.] the charges of sir john nevile, of chete, knight, being sheriff of yorkshire in the 19th year of the reigne of king henry viii. lent assizes. l s d imprimis, in wheat 8 quarters, 8 0 0 item, in malt, 11 quarters, 7 6 8 item, in beans, 4 quarters, 3 4 0 item, in hay, 6 loads, 25 0 item, in litter, 2 loads 0 4 0 item, part of the judge's horses in the inn, 0 13 4 item, 5 hogsheads of wine, 3 claret, 1 white, 1 red, 10 16 4 item, salt fish, 76 couple, 3 16 4 item, 2 barrells herrings, 25 6 item, 2 barrells salmon, 3 1 0 item, 12 seams[1] of sea fish 6 4 0 item, in great pike and pickering, 6 score and 8, 8 0 0 item, 12 great pike from ramsay, 2 0 0 item, in pickerings from holdess iiii xx, 3 0 0 item, received of ryther 20 great breams, 20 0 item, received of said ryther, 12 great tenches, 0 16 0 item, received of said ryther 12 great eels and 106 touling[2] eels, and 200 lb. of brewit[3] eels, and 20 great ruds, 40 0 item, in great fresh sammon, 28 3 16 8 item, a barrell of sturgeon 46 8 item, a firkin of seal, 0 16 8 item, a little barrell of syrope[4], 0 6 8 item, 2 barrells of all manner of spices, 4 10 0 item, 1 bag of isinglass, 0 3 0 item, a little barrell of oranges, 0 4 0 item, 24 gallons of malmsey, 0 16 0 item, 2 little barrells of green ginger and sucketts, 0 3 0 item, 3 bretts, 0 12 0 item, in vinegar, 13 gallon, 1 quart 0 6 8 item, 8 large table cloths of 8 yards in length, 7 of them 12 d per yard, and one 16d, 3 6 8 item, 6 doz. manchetts[5], 0 6 0 item, 6 gallons vergis[6], 0 4 8 item, in mayne bread[7], 0 0 8 item, bread bought for march payne, 0 0 8 item, for sugar and almonds, besides the 2 barrells, 0 11 0 item, for salt, 0 6 0 item, for 5 gallons of mustard, 0 2 6 item, a draught of fish, 2 great pikes and 200 breams, 0 26 8 item, 3 gallons of honey, 0 3 9 item, 6 horse-loads of charcoal, 0 2 8 item, 3 loads of talwood[8] and bavings, 0 3 4 item, 4 streyners, 0 1 0 item, for graines[9], 0 0 4 item, 20 doz. of cups, 0 6 8 item, 6 elaskits and 1 maund[10], 0 3 4 item, 1 doz. earthen potts, 0 0 6 item, 2 staff torches, 0 4 0 item, for yearbes[11], 5 days, 0 1 8 item, for waferans[12], 5 days[13], 0 1 8 item, for onions, 0 1 0 item, 2 gallipots, 0 0 8 item, for yeast, 5 days, 0 1 8 item, 20 doz. borrowed vessels, 0 5 1 item, for carriage or wheat, malt, wine, and wood, from the water-side, 0 15 0 item, for parker the cook, and other cooks and water-bearers, 4 10 0 item, 6 doz. of trenchers, 0 0 4 first, for making a cupboard, 0 1 4 [footnote 1: seams]. quarter, much used in kent, v. infra.] [footnote 2: touling eels]. qu. see below.] [footnote 3: brewit eels]. _i.e._ for brewet; for which see above, p. 127. also here, below.] [footnote 4: syrope]. v. p. 36 above.] [footnote 5: manchetts]. a species of bread, see below.] [footnote 6: vergis]. verjuice.] [footnote 7: mayne bread]. pain du main, v. p. 147. above.] [footnote 8: talwood and bavings]. chord-wood, and bavins. see dr. birch's life of prince henry: wetwood and bevins occur below, p. 184.] [footnote 9: grains]. qu.] [footnote 10: maund]. a large basket, now used for apples, &c.] [footnote 11: yearbes]. yerbs are often pronounced so now; whence _yerby grease_, for herb of grace.] [footnote 12: waferans]. v. above, p. 157.] [footnote 13: 5 days]. qu. perhaps gathering, or fetching them.] the charge of the said sir john nevile of chete at lammas assizes, in the 20th year of the reign of king henry the viiith. l s d imprimis, in wheat, 9 quarters, 12 0 0 item, in malt, 12 quarters, 10 0 0 item, 5 oxen, 6 13 4 item, 24 weathers, 3 4 0 item, 6 calves, 20 0 item, 60 capons of grease, 25 0 item, other capons, 3 14 0 item, 24 pigs, 0 14 0 item, 3 hogsheads of wine, 8 11 8 item, 22 swans, 5 10 0 item, 12 cranes, 4 0 0 item, 30 heronsews, 30 0 item, 12 shovelards, 12 0 item, 10 bitters, 13 4 item, 80 partridges, 26 8 item, 12 pheasants, 20 0 item, 20 curlews, 26 8 item, curlew knaves 32, 32 0 item, 6 doz. plovers, 0 12 0 item, 30 doz. pidgeons, 0 7 6 item, mallards, teal and other wild fowl, 42 0 item, 2 baskets of all manner of spice, 5 0 0 item, in malmsey, 24 gallons, 32 0 item, in bucks, 10 0 0 item, in stags, - - - fryday and saturday. first, 3 couple of great ling, 12 0 item, 40 couple of heberdine, 40 0 item, salt sammon, 20 0 item, fresh sammon and great, 3 6 8 item, 6 great pike, 12 0 item, 80 pickerings, 4 0 0 item, 300 great breams, 15 0 0 item, 40 tenches, 26 8 item, 80 touling eels and brevet eels, and 15 ruds, 32 0 item, a firkin of sturgeon, 16 0 item, in fresh seals, 13 4 item, 8 seame of fresh fish, 4 0 0 item, 2 bretts, 8 0 item, a barrell of green ginger and sucketts, 4 0 item, 14 gallon of vinegar, 7 7 1/2 item, 6 horse-loads of charcoal, 2 4 item, 40 load of wetwood and bevins, 53 4 item, for salt, 5 2 item, 6 doz. of manchetts, 6 0 item, gingerbread for march payne, 0 8 item, 5 gallon of mustard, 2 6 item, for loan of 6 doz. vessels, 5 2 item, 3 gallons of honey, 3 9 item, for the costs of cooks and water-bearers, 4 0 0 item, for the judges and clerks of the assize, for their horse-meat in the inn, and for their housekeeper's meat, and the clerk of the assize fee, 10 0 0 item, for my livery coats, embroidered, 50 0 0 item, for my horses provender, hay, litter, and grass, at both the assizes, 6 13 4 in a vellum ms. account-book of the gild of the holy trinity at luton, com. bedford, from 19 hen. viii. to the beginning of ed. vi. there are the expences of their anniversary feasts, from year to year, exhibiting the several provisions, with their prices. the feast of 19 hen. viii. is hereunder inserted; from whence some judgement may be formed of the rest. l s d 5 quarters, 6 bushels of wheat, 50 2 3 bushels of wheat flower, 0 5 11 6 quarters malte, 29 0 72 barrels beer, 0 12 10 brewing 6 quarters malte, 0 4 0 bakyng, 0 1 6 82 geys, 1 0 7 47 pyggs, 1 3 10 64 capons, 1 9 8 1/2 74 chekyns, 0 8 2 84 rabetts, and carriage, 0 10 8 beyf, 4 quarters, 1 0 0 a lyfte, 0 0 8 a shodoar & cromys, 0 0 11 moton & welle[1] 1 quarter, 0 0 8 2 leggs of welle & 2 shodours, 0 1 0 a marebone & suet, & 3 calwisfere, 0 0 4 1 quarter of moton, and 6 calwisfere, 0 0 9 20 lamys, 1 5 10 dressyng of lamys, 0 0 6 wine, 2 galons, a potell, & a pynte, 0 1 9 wenegar 3 potellis, 0 1 0 warg[2] 1 galon, 0 0 2 1/2 spyce, 3 lb pepur & half, 0 6 11 4 oz. of clovis & mace, & quartron, 0 3 4 11 lb. of sugur & half, 0 7 0 1/2 lb. of sinamon, 0 3 4 12 lb. of great resons, 0 1 0 6 lb. of smale resons, 0 1 4 1/2 lb. of gynger, 0 1 10 1/2 lb. of sandurs, 0 0 8 1 lb. of lycoras, 0 0 6 4 lb. of prunys, 0 0 8 1 lb. of comfetts, 0 0 8 1/2 lb. of turnesell, 0 0 8 1 lb. of grenys, 0 1 9 1 lb. of anesseds, 0 0 5 2 lb. of almonds, 0 0 5 2 oz. of safron and quarton, 0 2 9 2 lb. of dats, 0 0 8 eggs 600, 0 6 0 butter, 0 2 7 mylke 19 galons, 0 1 7 8 galons and 2 gal. of crem, 0 1 3 1/2 hone 2 galons, 0 3 0 salte 1/2 boshell, 0 0 8 fyshe, fresche, and the careeg from london, 0 3 8 a frefche samon, 0 2 8 salte fyche for the coks, 0 1 0 rydyng for trouts 0 0 8 mynstrels, 0 16 0 butlers, 0 1 6 cokys, 0 17 4 [footnote 1: veal, now in the south pronounced with _w_.] [footnote 2: verjuice.] finis. proofreading team. scans from biblioteca de la universitat de barcelona _english_ housewifry exemplified in above four hundred and fifty receipts, giving directions in most parts of cookery; and how to prepare various sorts of soops, cakes, made-dishes, creams, pastes, jellies, pickles, made-wines, &c. with cuts for the orderly placing the dishes and courses; also bills of fare for every month in the year; and an alphabetical index to the whole. a book necessary for mistresses of families, higher and lower women servants, and confined to things useful, substantial and splendid, and calculated for the preservation of health, and upon the measures of _frugality_, being the result of thirty years _practice_ and _experience_. by elizabeth moxon. with an appendix containing, upwards of sixty receipts, of the most valuable kind, communicated to the publisher by several gentlewomen in the neighbourhood, distinguished by their extraordinary skill in housewifry. the returns of spiritual comfort and grief, in a devout soul. represented by an intercourse of letters to the right honourable lady letice, countess of falkland, in her life time. publish'd for the benefit and ease of all who labour under spiritual afflictions. 1764. the preface it is not doubted but the candid reader will find the following book in correspondence with the title, which will supersede the necessity of any other recommendation that might be given it. as the complier of it engaged in the undertaking at the instance and importunity of many persons of eminent account and distinction, so she can truly assure them, and the world, that she has acquitted herself with the utmost care and fidelity. and she entertains the greater hopes that her performance will meet with the kinder acceptance, because of the good opinion she has been held in by those, her ever honour'd friends, who first excited her to the publication of her book, and who have been long eye-witnesses of her skill and behaviour in the business of her calling. she has nothing to add, but her humblest thanks to them, and to all others with whom she has received favour and encouragement. _english_ housewifry. 1. _to make_ vermicelly soop. take a neck of beef, or any other piece; cut off some slices, and fry them with butter 'till they are very brown; wash your pan out every time with a little of the gravy; you may broil a few slices of the beef upon a grid-iron: put all together into a pot, with a large onion, a little salt, and a little whole pepper; let it stew 'till the meat is tender, and skim off the fat in the boiling; them strain it into your dish, and boil four ounces of vermicelly in a little of the gravy 'till it is soft: add a little stew'd spinage; then put all together into a dish, with toasts of bread; laying a little vermicelly upon the toast. garnish your dish with creed rice and boil'd spinage, or carrots slic'd thin. 2. cucumber soop. take a houghil of beef, break it small and put it into a stew-pan, with part of a neck of mutton, a little whole pepper, an onion, and a little salt; cover it with water, and let it stand in the oven all night, then strain it and take off the fat; pare six or eight middle-siz'd cucumbers, and slice them not very thin, stew them in a little butter and a little whole pepper; take them out of the butter and put 'em in the gravy. garnish your dish with raspings of bread, and serve it up with toasts of bread or _french_ roll. 3. _to make_ hare soop. cut the hare into small pieces, wash it and put it into a stew-pan, with a knuckle of veal; put in it a gallon of water, a little salt, and a handful of sweet herbs; let it stew 'till the gravy be good; fry a little of the hare to brown the soop; you may put in it some crusts of write bread among the meat to thicken the soop; put it into a dish, with a little stew'd spinage, crisp'd bread, and a few forc'd-meat balls. garnish your dish with boil'd spinage and turnips, cut it in thin square slices. 4. _to make green_ pease soop. take a neck of mutton, and a knuckle of veal, make of them a little good gravy; then take half a peck of the greenest young peas, boil and beat them to a pulp in a marble mortar; then put to them a little of the gravy; strain them through a hair sieve to take out all the pulp; put all together, with a little salt and whole pepper; then boil it a little, and if you think the soop not green enough, boil a handful of spinage very tender, rub it through a hair-sieve, and put into the soop with one spoonful of wheat-flour, to keep it from running: you must not let it boil after the spinage is put in, it will discolour it; then cut white bread in little diamonds, fry them in butter while crisp, and put it into a dish, with a few whole peas. garnish your dish with creed rice, and red beet-root. you may make asparagus-soop the same way, only add tops of asparagus, instead of whole pease. 5. _to make_ onion soop. take four or five large onions, pill and boil them in milk and water whilst tender, (shifting them two or three times in the boiling) beat 'em in a marble mortar to a pulp, and rub them thro' a hair-sieve, and put them into a little sweet gravy; then fry a few slices of veal, and two or three slices of lean bacon; beat them in a marble mortar as small as forc'd-meat; put it into your stew-pan with the gravy and onions, and boil them; mix a spoonful of wheat-flour with a little water, and put it into the soop to keep it from running; strain all through a cullender, season it to your taste; then put into the dish a little spinage stew'd in butter, and a little crisp bread; so serve it up. 6. _common_ pease soop _in winter_. take a quart of good boiling pease which put into a pot with a gallon of soft water whilst cold; add thereto a little beef or mutton, a little hung beef or bacon, and two or three large onions; boil all together while your soop is thick; salt it to your taste, and thicken it with a little wheat-flour; strain it thro' a cullender, boil a little sellery, cut it in small pieces, with a little crisp bread, and crisp a little spinage, as you would do parsley, then put it in a dish, and serve it up. garnish your dish with raspings of bread. 7. _to make_ pease soop _in lent_. take a quart of pease, put them into a pot with a gallon of water, two or three large onions, half a dozen anchovies, a little whole pepper and salt; boil all together whilst your soop is thick; strain it into a stew-pan through a cullender, and put six ounces of butter (work'd in flour) into the soop to thicken it; also put in a little boil'd sellery, stew'd spinage, crisp bread, and a little dry'd mint powdered; so serve it up. 8. craw-fish soop. take a knuckle of veal, and part of a neck of mutton to make white gravy, putting in an onion, a little whole pepper and salt to your taste; then take twenty crawfish, boil and beat them in a marble mortar, adding thereto alittlee of the gravy; strain them and put them into the gravy; also two or three pieces of white bread to thicken the soop; boil twelve or fourteen of the smallest craw-fish, and put them whole into the dish, with a few toasts, or _french_ roll, which you please; so serve it up. you may make lobster soop the same way, only add into the soop the seeds of the lobster. 9. _to make_ scotch soop. take a houghil of beef, cut it in pieces, with part of a neck of mutton, and a pound of _french_ barley; put them all into your pot, with six quarts of water; let it boil 'till the barley be soft, then put in a fowl; as soon as 'tis enough put in a handful of red beet leaves or brocoli, a handful of the blades of onions, a handful of spinage, washed and shred very small; only let them have a little boil, else it will spoil the greenness. serve it up with the fowl in a dish, garnish'd with raspings of bread. 10. _to make_ soop _without water_. take a small leg of mutton, cut it in slices, season it with a little pepper and salt; cut three middling turnips in round pieces, and three small carrots scrap'd and cut in pieces, a handful of spinage, a little parsley, a bunch of sweet herbs, and two or three cabbage lettice; cut the herbs pretty small, lay a row of meat and a row of herbs; put the turnips and carrots at the bottom of the pot, with an onion, lay at the top half a pound of sweet butter, and close up the pot with coarse paste; them put the pot into boiling water, and let it boil for four hours; or in a slow oven, and let it stand all night; when it is enough drain the gravy from the meat, skim off the fat, then put it into your dish with some toasts of bread, and a little stew'd spinage; to serve it up. 11. _to stew a_ brisket _of_ beef. take the thin part of a brisket of beef, score the skin at the top; cross and take off the under skin, then take out the bones, season it highly with mace, a little salt, and a little whole pepper, rub it on both sides, let it lay all night, make broth of the bones, skim the fat clean off, put in as much water as will cover it well, let it stew over a slow fire four or five hours, with a bunch of sweet herbs and an onion cut in quarters; turn the beef over every hour, and when you find it tender take it out of the broth and drain it very well, having made a little good strong gravy. a ragoo with sweet-breads cut into pieces, pullets tenderly boil'd and cut in long pieces; take truffles and morels, if you have any mushrooms, with a little claret, and throw in your beef, let it stew a quarter of an hour in the ragoo, turning it over sometimes, then take out your beef, and thicken your ragoo with a lump of butter and a little flour. garnish your dish with horse-radish and pickles, lay the ragoo round your beef, and a little upon the top; so serve it up. 12. _to stew a_ rump _of_ beef. take a fat rump of young beef and cut off the fag end, lard the low part with fat bacon, and stuff the other part with shred parsley; put it into your pan with two or three quarts of water, a quart of claret, two or three anchovies, an onion, two or three blades of mace, a little whole pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs; stew it over a slow fire five or six hours, turning it several times in the stewing, and keep it close cover'd; when your beef is enough take from it the gravy, thicken part of it with a lump of butter and flour, and put it upon the dish with the beef. garnish the dish with horse-radish and red-beet root. there must be no salt upon the beef, only salt the gravy to your taste. you may stew part of a brisket, or an ox cheek the same way. 13. _to make_ olives _of_ beef. take some slices of a rump (or any other tender piece) of beef, and beat them with a paste pin, season them with nutmeg, pepper and salt, and rub them over with the yolk of an egg; make a little forc'd-meat of veal, beef-suet, a few bread crumbs, sweet-herbs, a little shred mace, pepper, salt, and two eggs, mixed all together; take two or three slices of the beef, according as they are in bigness, and a lump of forc'd-meat the size of an egg; lay your beef round it, and roll it in part of a kell of veal, put it into an earthen dish, with a little water, a glass of claret, and a little onion shred small; lay upon them a little butter, and bake them in an oven about an hour; when they come out take off the fat, and thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour; six of them is enough for a side dish. garnish the dish with horseradish and pickles. you may make olives of veal the same way. 14. _to fry_ beef-steaks. take your beef steaks and beat them with the back of a knife, fry them in butter over a quick fire, that they may be brown before they be too much done; when they are enough put them into an earthen pot whilst you have fry'd them all; pour out the fat, and put them into your pan with a little gravy, an onion shred very small, a spoonful of catchup and a little salt; thicken it with a little butter and flour, the thickness of cream. garnish your dish with pickles. beef-steaks are proper for a side-dish. 15. beef-steaks _another way_. take your beef-steaks and beat them with the back of a knife, strow them over with a little pepper and salt, lay them on a grid-iron over a clear fire, turning 'em whilst enough; set your dish over a chafing-dish of coals, with a little brown gravy; chop an onion or shalot as small as pulp, and put it amongst the gravy; (if your steaks be not over much done, gravy will come therefrom;) put it on a dish and shake it all together. garnish your dish with shalots and pickles. 16. _a_ shoulder _of_ mutton _forc'd_. take a pint of oysters and chop them, put in a few bread-crumbs, a little pepper, shred mace, and an onion, mix them all together, and stuff your mutton on both sides, then roast it at a slow fire, and baste it with nothing but butter; put into the dripping-pan a little water, two or three spoonfuls of the pickle of oysters, a glass of claret, an onion shred small, and an anchovy; if your liquor waste before your mutton is enough, put in a little more water; when the meat is enough, take up the gravy, skim off the fat, and thicken it with flour and butter; then serve it up. garnish your dish with horse-radish and pickles. 17. _to stew a_ fillet _of_ mutton. take a fillet of mutton, stuff it the same as for a shoulder, half roast it, and put it into a stew pan with a little gravy, a jill of claret, an anchovy, and a shred onion; you may put in a little horse-radish and some mushrooms; stew it over a slow fire while the mutton is enough; take the gravy, skim off the fat, and thicken it with flour and butter; lay forc'd-meat-balls round the mutton. garnish your dish with horse-radish and mushrooms. it is proper either for a side-dish or bottom dish; if you have it for a bottom-dish, cut your mutton into two fillets. 18. _to collar a breast of_ mutton. take a breast of mutton, bone it, and season it with nutmeg, pepper and salt, rub it over with the yolk of an egg; make a little forc'd-meat of veal or mutton, chop it with a little beef-suet, a few bread-crumbs, sweet herbs, an onion, pepper and salt, a little nutmeg, two eggs, and a spoonful or two of cream; mix all together and lay it over the mutton, roll it up and bind it about with course inkle; put it into an earthen dish with a little water, dridge it over with flour, and lay upon it a little butter; it will require two hours to bake it. when it is enough take up the gravy, skim off the fat, put in an anchovy and a spoonful of catchup, thicken it with flour and butter; take the inkle from the mutton and cut it into three or four rolls; pour the sauce upon the dish, and lay about it forc'd-meat-balls. garnish your dish with pickles. 19. _to collar a breast of_ mutton _another way_. take a breast of mutton, bone it, and season it with nutmeg, pepper and salt; roll it up tight with coarse incle and roast it upon a spit; when it is enough lay it whole upon the dish. then take four or six cucumbers, pare them and cut them in slices, not very thin; likewise cut three or four in quarters length way, stew them in a little brown gravy and a little whole pepper; when they are enough thicken them with flour and butter the thickness of cream; so serve it up. garnish your dish with horse-radish. 20. _to carbonade a breast of_ mutton. take a breast of mutton, half bone it, nick it cross, season it with pepper and salt; then broil it before the fire whilst it be enough, strinkling it over with bread-crumbs; let the sauce be a little gravy and butter, and a few shred capers; put it upon the dish with the mutton. garnish it with horse-radish and pickles. this is proper for a side-dish at noon, or a bottom-dish at night. 21. _a chine of_ mutton _roasted, with stew'd_ sellery. take a loyn of mutton, cut off the thin part and both ends, take off the skin, and score it in the roasting as you would do pork; then take a little sellery, boil it, and cut it in pieces about an inch long, put to it a little good gravy, while pepper and salt, two or three spoonfuls of cream and a lump of butter, so thicken it up, and pour it upon your dish with your mutton.--this is proper for a side-dish. 22. mutton-chops. take a leg of mutton half-roasted, when it is cold cut it in thin pieces as you would do any other meat for hashing, put it into a stew-pan with a little water or small gravy, two or three spoonfuls of claret, two or three shalots shred, or onions, and two or three spoonfuls of oyster pickle; thicken it up with a little flour, and so serve it up. garnish your dish with horse-radish and pickles. you may do a shoulder of mutton the same way, only boil the blade-bone, and lie in the middle. 23. _a forc'd_ leg _of_ mutton. take a leg of mutton, loose the skin from the meat, be careful you do not cut the skin as you loosen it; then cut the meat from the bone, and let the bone and skin hang together, chop the meat small, with a little beef-suet, as you would do sausages; season it with nutmeg, pepper and salt, a few bread-crumbs, two or three eggs, a little dry'd sage, shred parsley and lemon-peel; then fill up the skin with forc'd-meat, and lay it upon an earthen dish; lay upon the meat a little flour and butter, and a little water in the dish; it will take an hour and a half baking; when you dish it up lay about it either mutton or veal chollops, with brown gravy sauce. garnish your dish with horse-radish and lemon. you may make a forc'd leg of lamb the same way. 24. _to make_ french cutlets _of_ mutton. take a neck of mutton, cut it in joints, cut off the ends of the long bones, then scrape the meat clean off the bones about an inch, take a little of the inpart of the meat of the cutlets, and make it into forc'd-meat; season it with nutmeg, pepper, and salt; then lay it upon your cutlets, rub over them the yolk of an egg to make it stick; chop a few sweet herbs, and put to them a few bread-crumbs, a little pepper and salt, and strew it over the cutlets, and wrap them in double writing-paper; either broil them before the fire or in an oven, half an hour will do them; when you dish them up, take off the out-paper, and set in the midst of the dish a little brown gravy in a china-bason; you may broil them without paper if you please. 25. _to fry_ mutton steaks. take a loyn of mutton, cut off the thin part, then cut the rest into steaks, and flat them with a bill, season them with a little pepper and salt, fry them in butter over a quick fire; as you fry them put them into a stew-pan or earthen-pot, whilst you have fried them all; then pour the fat out of the pan, put in a little gravy, and the gravy that comes from the steaks, with a spoonful of claret, an anchovy, and an onion or a shalot shred; shake up the steaks in the gravy, and thicken it with a little flour; so serve them up. garnish your dish with horse radish and shalots. 26. _to make artificial_ venison _of_ mutton. take a large shoulder of mutton, or a middling fore quarter, bone it, lay it in an earthen dish, put upon it a pint of claret, and let it lie all night; when you put it into your pasty-pan or dish, pour on the claret that it lay in, with a little water and butter; before you put it into your pasty-pan, season it with pepper and salt; when you make the pasty lie no paste in the bottom of the dish. 27. _how to brown ragoo a_ breast _of_ veal. take a breast of veal, cut off both the ends, and half roast it; then put it into a stew-pan, with a quart of brown gravy, a spoonful of mushroom-powder, a blade or two of mace, and lemon-peel; so let it stew over a slow fire whilst your veal is enough; then put in two or three shred mushrooms or oysters, two or three spoonfuls of white wine; thicken up your sauce with flour and butter; you may lay round your veal some stew'd morels and truffles; if you have none, some pallets stew'd in gravy, with artichoke-bottoms cut in quarters, dipt in eggs and fry'd, and some forc'd-meat-balls; you may fry the sweet-bread cut in pieces, and lay over the veal, or fry'd oysters; when you fry your oysters you must dip them in egg and flour mixed. garnish your dish with lemon and pickles. 28. _a herico of a_ breast _of_ veal, french _way_. take a breast of veal, half roast it, then put it into a stew-pan, with three pints of brown gravy; season your veal with nutmeg, pepper and salt; when your veal is stew'd enough, you may put in a pint of green peas boil'd. take six middling cucumbers, pare and cut them in quarters long way, also two cabbage-lettices, and stew them in brown gravy; so lay them round your veal when you dish it up, with a few forc'd-meat-balls and some slices of bacon. garnish your dish with pickles, mushrooms, oysters and lemons. 29. _to roll a_ breast _of_ veal. take a breast of veal, and bone it, season it with nutmeg, pepper and salt, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, and strew it over with sweet herbs shred small, and some slices of bacon, cut thin to lie upon it, roll it up very tight, bind it with coarse inkle, put it into an earthen dish with a little water, and lay it upon some lumps of butter; strew a little seasoning on the outside of your veal, it will take two hours baking; when it is baked take off the inkle and cut it in four rolls, lay it upon the dish with a good brown gravy-sauce: lay about your veal the sweet-bread fry'd, some forc'd-meat-balls, a little crisp bacon, and a few fry'd oysters if you have any; so serve it up. garnish your dish with pickles and lemon. 30. _a stew'd_ breast _of_ veal. take the fattest and whitest breast of veal you can get, cut off both ends and boil them for a little gravy; take the veal and raise up the thin part, make a forc'd-meat of the sweet-bread boil'd, a few bread-crumbs, a little beef-suet, two eggs, pepper and salt, a spoonful or two of cream, and a little nutmeg, mix'd all together; so stuff the veal, skewer the skin close down, dridge it over with flour, tie it up in a cloth, and boil it in milk and water about an hour. for the sauce take a little gravy, about a jill of oysters, a few mushrooms shred, a little lemon shred fine, and a little juice of lemon; so thicken it up with flour and butter; when you dish it up pour the same over it; lay over it a sweet-bread or two cut in slices and fry'd, and fry'd oysters. garnish your dish with lemon, pickles and mushrooms. this is proper for a top dish either at noon or night. 31. _to stew a_ fillet _of_ veal. take a leg of the best whye veal, cut off the dug and the knuckle, cut the rest into two fillets, and take the fat part and cut it in pieces the thickness of your finger; you must stuff the veal with the fat; make the hole with a penknife, draw it thro' and skewer it round; season it with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and shred parsley; then put it into your stew-pan, with half a pound of butter, (without water) and set it on your stove; let it boil very slow and cover it close up, turning it very often; it will take about two hours in stewing; when it is enough pour the gravy from it, take off the fat, put into the gravy a pint of oysters and a few capers, a little lemon-peel, a spoonful or two of white wine, and a little juice of lemon; thicken it with butter and flour the thickness of cream; lay round it forc'd-meat-balls and oysters fry'd, and so serve it up. garnish your dish with a few capers and slic'd lemon. 32. _to make_ scotch collops. take a leg of veal, take off the thick part and cut in thin slices for collops, beat them with a paste-pin 'till they be very thin; season them with mace, pepper and salt; fry them over a quick fire, not over brown; when they are fried put them into a stew-pan with a little gravy, two or three spoonfuls of white wine, two spoonfuls of oyster-pickle if you have it, and a little lemon-peel; then shake them over a stove in a stew-pan, but don't let them boil over much, it only hardens your collops; take the fat part of your veal, stuff it with forc'd-meat, and boil it; when it is boiled lay it in the middle of your dish with the collops; lay about your collops slices of crisp bacon, and forc'd-meat-balls. garnish your dish with slices of lemon and oysters, or mushrooms. 33. _to make_ veal cutlets. take a neck of veal, cut it in joints, and flatten them with a bill; cut off the ends of the bones, and lard the thick part of the cutlets with four or five bits of bacon; season it with nutmeg, pepper and salt; strew over them a few bread crumbs, and sweet herbs shred fine; first dip the cutlets in egg to make the crumbs stick, then broil them before the fire, put to them a little brown gravy sauce, so serve it up. garnish your dish with lemon. 34. veal cutlets _another way_. take a neck of veal, cut it in joints, and flat them as before, and cut off the ends of the long bones; season them with a little pepper, salt and nutmeg, broil them on a gridiron, over a slow fire; when they are enough, serve them up with brown gravy sauce and forc'd-meat-balls. garnish your dish with lemon. 35. veal cutlets _another way_. take a neck of veal and cut it in slices, flatten them as before, and cut off the ends of the long bones; season the cutlets with pepper and salt, and dridge over them some flour; fry them in butter over a quick fire; when they are enough put from them the fat they were fried in, and put to them a little small gravy, a spoonful of catchup, a spoonful of white wine or juice of lemon, and grate in some nutmeg; thicken them with flour and butter, so serve them up. garnish your dish as before. 36. _to collar a_ calf's head _to eat hot_. take a large fat head, and lay it in water to take out the blood; boil it whilst the bones will come out; season it with nutmeg, pepper and salt; then wrap it up round with a large lump of forc'd-meat made of veal; after which wrap it up tight in a veal kell before it is cold, and take great care that you don't let the head break in two pieces; then bind it up with a coarse inkle, lay it upon an earthen dish, dridge it over with flour, and lay over it a little butter, with a little water in the dish; an hour and a half will bake it; when it is enough take off the inkle, cut it in two length ways, laying the skin-side uppermost; when you lay it upon your dish you must lay round it stew'd pallets and artichoke-bottoms fry'd with forc'd-meat-balls; put to it brown gravy-sauce; you may brown your sauce with a few truffles or morels, and lay them about your veal. garnish your dish with lemon and pickle. 37. _to collar a_ calf's head _to eat cold_. you must be a calf's head with the skin on, split it and lay it in water, take out the tongue and eyes, cut off the groin ends, then tie it up in a cloth and boil it whilst the bones come out; when it is enough lay it on a table with the skin-side uppermost, and pour upon it a little cold water; then take off the hair and cut off the ears; mind you do not break the head in two, turn it over and take out the bones; salt it very well and wrap it round in a cloth very tight, pin it with pins, and tie it at both ends, so bind it up with broad inkle, then hang it up by one end, and when it is cold take it out; you must make for it brown pickle, and it will keep half a year; when you cut it, cut it at the neck. it is proper for a side or middle dish, either for noon or night. 38. _to make a_ calf's head _hash_. take a calf's head and boil it, when it is cold take one half of the head and cut off the meat in thin slices, put it into a stew pan with a little brown gravy, put to it a spoonful or two of walnut pickle, a spoonful of catchup, a little claret, a little shred mace, a few capers shred, or a little mango; boil it over a stove, and thicken it with butter and flour; take the other part of the head, cut off the bone ends and score it with a knife, season it with a little pepper and salt, rub it over with the yolk of an egg, and strew over a few bread crumbs, and a little parsley; then set it before the fire to broil whilst it is brown; and when you dish up the other part lay this in the midst; lay about your hash-brain-cakes, forc'd-meat-balls and crisp bacon. _to make brain-cakes_; take a handful of bread-crumbs, a little shred lemon-peel, pepper, salt, nutmeg, sweet-marjorum, parsley shred fine, and the yolks of three eggs; take the brains and skin them, boil and chop them small, so mix them all together; take a little butter in your pan when you fry them, and drop them in as you do fritters, and if they run in your pan put in a handful more of bread-crumbs. 39. _to hash a_ calf's head _white_. take a calf's head and boil it as much as you would do for eating, when it is cold cut in thin slices, and put it into a stew-pan with a white gravy; then put to it a little shred mace, salt, a pint of oysters, a few shred mushrooms, lemon-peel, three spoonful of white wine, and some juice of lemon, shake all together, and boil it over the stove, thicken it up with a little flour and butter; when you put it on your dish, you must put a boil'd fowl in the midst, and few slices of crisp bacon. garnish your dish with pickles and lemon. 40. _a ragoo of a_ calf's head. take two calves' head and boil them as you do for eating, when they are cold cut off all the lantern part from the flesh in pieces about an inch long, and about the breadth of your little finger; put it into your stew-pan with a little white gravy; twenty oysters cut in two or three pieces, a few shred mushrooms, and a little juice of lemon; season it with shred mace and salt, let them all boil together over a stove; take two or three spoonfuls of cream, the yolks of two or three eggs, and a little shred parsley, then put it into a stew-pan; after you have put the cream in you may shake it all the while; if you let it boil it will crudle, so serve it up. garnish your dish with sippets, lemon, and a few pickled mushrooms. 41. _to roast a_ calf's head _to eat like pig_. take a calf's head, wash it well, lay it in an earthen dish, and cut out the tongue lay it loose under the head in the dish with the brains, and a little sage and parsley; rub the head over with the yolk of an egg, then strew over them a few bread-crumbs and shred parsley, lay all over it lumps of butter and a little salt, then set it in the oven; it will take about an hour and a half baking; when it is enough take the brains, sage and parsley; and chop them together, put to them the gravy that is in the dish, a little butter and a spoonful of vinegar, so boil it up and put it in cups, and set them round the head upon the dish, take the tongue and blanch it, cut it in two, and lay it on each side the head, and some slices of crisp bacon over the head, so serve it up. 42. sauce _for a_ neck _of_ veal. fry your veal, and when fried put in a little water, an anchovy, a few sweet herbs, a little onion, nutmeg, a little lemon-peel shred small, and a little white wine or ale, then shake it up with a little butter and flour, with some cockles and capers. 43. _to boil a_ leg _of_ lamb, _with the_ loyn _fry'd about it_. when your lamb is boil'd lay it in the dish, and pour upon it a little parsley, butter and green gooseberries coddled, then lay your fried lamb round it; take some small asparagus and cut it small like peas, and boil it green; when it is boil'd drain it in a cullender, and lay it round your lamb in spoonfuls. garnish your dish with gooseberries, and heads of asparagus in lumps. this is proper for a bottom dish. 44. _a_ leg _of_ lamb _boil'd with_ chickens _round it_. when your lamb is boil'd pour over it parsley and butter, with coddled gooseberries, so lay the chickens round your lamb, and pour over the chickens a little white fricassy sauce. garnish your dish with sippets and lemon. this is proper for a top dish. 45. _a fricassy of_ lamb _white_. take a leg of lamb, half roast it, when it is cold cut it in slices, put it into a stew-pan with a little white gravy, a shalot shred fine, a little nutmeg, salt, and a few shred capers; let it boil over the stove whilst the lamb is enough; to thicken your sauce, take three spoonfuls of cream, the yolks of two eggs, a little shred parsley, and beat them well together, then put it into your stew-pan and shake it whilst it is thick, but don't let it boil; if this do not make it thick, put in a little flour and butter, so serve it up. garnish your dish with mushrooms, oysters and lemon. 46. _a brown fricassy of_ lamb. take a leg of lamb, cut it in thin slices and season it with pepper and salt, then fry it brown with butter, when it is fried put it into your stew-pan, with a little brown gravy, an anchovy, a spoonful or two of white wine or claret, grate in a little nutmeg, and set it over the stove; thicken your sauce with flour and butter. garnish your dish with mushrooms, oysters and lemon. 47. _to make_ pig _eat like_ lamb _in winter_. take a pig about a month old and dress it, lay it down to the fire, when the skin begins to harden you must take it off by pieces, and when you have taken all the skin off, draw it and when it is cold cut it in quarters and lard it with parsley; then roast it for use. 48. _how to stew a_ hare. take a young hare, wash and wipe it well, cut the legs into two or three pieces, and all the other parts the same bigness, beat them all flat with a paste-pin, season it with nutmeg and salt, then flour it over, and fry it in butter over a quick fire; when you have fried it put into a stew-pan, with about a pint of gravy, two or three spoonfuls of claret and a small anchovy, so shake it up with butter and flour, (you must not let it boil in the stew-pan, for it will make it cut hard) then serve it up. garnish your dish with crisp parsley. 49. _how to jug a_ hare. take a young hare, cut her in pieces as you did for stewing, and beat it well, season it with the same seasoning you did before, put it into a pitcher or any other close pot, with half a pound of butter, set it in a pot of boiling water, stop up the pitcher close with a cloth, and lay upon it some weight for fear it should fall on one side; it will take about two hours in stewing; mind your pot be full of water, and keep it boiling all the time; when it is enough take the gravy from it, clear off the fat, and put her into your gravy in a stew-pan, with a spoonful or two of white wine, a little juice of lemon, shred lemon-peel and mace; you must thicken it up as you would a white fricassy. garnish your dish with sippets and lemon. 50. _to roast a_ hare _with a pudding in the belly_. when you have wash'd the hare, nick the legs thro' the joints, and skewer them on both sides, which will keep her from drying in the roasting; when you have skewer'd her, put the pudding into her belly, baste her with nothing but butter: put a little in the dripping pan; you must not baste it with the water at all: when your hare is enough, take the gravy out of the dripping pan, and thicken it up with a little flour and butter for the sauce. _how to make a_ pudding _for the_ hare. take the liver, a little beef-suet, sweet-marjoram and parsley shred small, with bread-crumbs and two eggs; season it with nutmeg, pepper and salt to your taste, mix all together and if it be too stiff put in a spoonful or two of cream: you must not boil the liver. 51. _to make a brown fricassy of_ rabbets. take a rabbet, cut the legs in three pieces, and the remainder of the rabbet the same bigness, beat them thin and fry them in butter over a quick fire; when they are fried put them into a stew-pan with a little gravy, a spoonful of catchup, and a little nutmeg; then shake it up with a little flour and butter. garnish your dish with crisp parsley. 52. _a white fricassy of_ rabbets. take a couple of young rabbets and half roast them; when they are cold take off the skin, and cut the rabbets in small pieces, (only take the white part) when you have cut it in pieces, put it into a stew-pan with white gravy, a small anchovy, a little onion, shred mace and lemon-peel, set it over a stove, and let it have one boil, then take a little cream, the yolks of two eggs, a lump of butter, a little juice of lemon and shred parsley; put them all together into a stew-pan, and shake them over the fire whilst they be as white as cream; you must not let it boil, if you do it will curdle. garnish your dish with shred lemon and pickles. 53. _how to make pulled_ rabbets. take two young rabbets, boil them very tender, and take off all the white meat, and pull off the skin, then pull it all in shives, and put it into your stew-pan with a little white gravy, a spoonful of white wine, a little nutmeg and salt to your taste; thicken it up as you would a white fricassy, but put in no parsley; when you serve it up lay the heads in the middle. garnish your dish with shred lemon and pickles. 54. _to dress rabbets to look like_ moor-game. take a young rabbet, when it is cased cut off the wings and the head; leave the neck of your rabbet as long as you can; when you case it you must leave on the feet, pull off the skin, leave on the claws, so double your rabbet and skewer it like a fowl; put a skewer at the bottom through the legs and neck, and tie it with a string, it will prevent its flying open; when you dish it up make the same sauce as you would do for partridges. three are enough for one dish. 55. _to make white scotch_ collops. take about four pounds of a fillet of veal, cut it in small pieces as thin as you can, then take a stew-pan, butter it well over, and shake a little flour over it, then lay your meat in piece by piece, whilst all your pan be covered; take two or three blades of mace, and a little nutmeg, set your stew-pan over the fire, toss it up together 'till all your meat be white, then take half a pint of strong veal broth, which must be ready made, a quarter of a pint of cream, and the yolks of two eggs, mix all these together, put it to your meat, keeping it tossing all the time 'till they just boil up, then they are enough; the last thing you do squeeze in a little lemon: you may put in oysters, mushrooms, or what you will to make it rich. 56. _to boil_ ducks _with_ onion sauce. take two fat ducks, and season them with a little pepper and salt, and skewer them up at both ends, and boil them whilst they are tender; take four or five large onions and boil them in milk and water, change the water two or three times in the boiling, when they are enough chop them very small, and rub them through a hair-sieve with the back of a spoon, 'till you have rubb'd them quite through, then melt a little butter, put in your onions and a little salt, and pour it upon your ducks. garnish your dish with onions and sippets. 57. _to stew_ ducks _either wild or tame_. take two ducks and half-roast them, cut them up as you would do for eating, then put them into a stew-pan with a little brown gravy, a glass of claret, two anchovies, a small onion shred very fine, and a little salt; thicken it up with flour and butter, so serve it up. garnish you dish with a little raw onion and sippets. 58. _to make a white fricassy of_ chickens. take two or more chickens, half-roast them, cut them up as you would do for eating, and skin them; put them into a stew-pan with a little white gravy, juice of lemon, two anchovies, shred mace and nutmeg, then boil it; take the yolks of three eggs, a little sweet cream and shred parsley, put them into your stew-pan with a lump of butter and a little salt; shake them all the while they are over the stove, and be sure you do not let them boil lest they should curdle. garnish your dish with sippets and lemon. 59. _how to make a brown fricassy of_ chickens. take two or more chickens, as you would have your dish in bigness, cut them up as you do for eating, and flat them a little with a paste-pin; fry them a light-brown, and put them into your stew-pan with a little gravy, a spoonful or two of white wine, a little nutmeg and salt; thicken it up with flour and butter. garnish your dish with sippets and crisp parsley. 60. chickens surprise. take half a pound of rice, set it over a fire in soft water, when it is half-boiled put in two or three small chickens truss'd, with two or three blades of mace, and a little salt; take a piece of bacon about three inches square, and boil it in water whilst almost enough, then take it out, pare off the outsides, and put it into the chickens and rice to boil a little together; (you must not let the broth be over thick with rice) then take up your chickens, lay them on a dish, pour over them the rice, cut your bacon in thin slices to lay round your chickens, and upon the breast of each a slice. this is proper for a side-dish. 61. _to boil_ chickens. take four or five small chickens, as you would have your dish in bigness; if they be small ones you may scald them, it will make them whiter; draw them, and take out the breast-bone before you scald them; when you have dress'd them, put them into milk and water, and wash them, truss them, and cut off the heads and necks; if you dress them the night before you use them, dip a cloth in milk and wrap them in it, which will make them white; you must boil them in milk and water, with a little salt; half an hour or less will boil them. _to make sauce for the_ chickens. take the necks, gizzards and livers, boil them in water, when they are enough strain off the gravy, and put to it a spoonful of oyster-pickle; take the livers, break them small, mix a little gravy, and rub them through a hair-sieve with the back of a spoon, then put to it a spoonful of cream, a little lemon and lemon-peel grated; thicken it up with butter and flour. let your sauce be no thicker than cream, which pour upon your chickens. garnish your dish with sippets, mushrooms, and slices of lemon. they are proper for a side-dish or a top-dish either at noon or night. 62. _how to boil a_ turkey. when your turkey is dress'd and drawn, truss her, cut off her feet, take down the breast-bone with a knife, and sew up the skin again; stuff the breast with a white stuffing. _how to make the_ stuffing. take the sweet-bread of veal, boil it, shred it fine, with a little beef-suet, a handful of bread-crumbs, a little lemon-peel, part of the liver, a spoonful or two of cream, with nutmeg, pepper, salt, and two eggs, mix all together, and stuff your turkey with part of the stuffing, (the rest you may either boil or fry to lay round it) dridge it with a little flour, tie it up in a cloth, and boil it with milk and water: if it be a young turkey an hour will boil it. _how to make sauce for the_ turkey. take a little small white gravy, a pint of oysters, two or three spoonfuls of cream, a little juice of lemon, and salt to your taste, thicken it up with flour and butter, then pour it over your turkey, and serve it up; lay round your turkey fry'd oysters, and the forc'd-meat. garnish your dish with oysters, mushrooms, and slices of lemon. 63. _how to make another sauce for a_ turkey. take a little strong white gravy, with some of the whitest sellery you can get, cut it about an inch long, boil it whilst it be tender, and put it into the gravy, with two anchovies, a little lemon-peel shred, two or three spoonfuls of cream, a little shred mace, and a spoonful of white wine; thicken it up with flour and butter; if you dislike the sellery you may put in the liver as you did for chickens. 64. _how to roast a_ turkey. take a turkey, dress and truss it, then take down the breast-bone. _to make stuffing for the breast_. take beef-suet, the liver shred fine, and bread-crumbs, a little lemon-peel, nutmeg, pepper and salt to your taste, a little shred parsley, a spoonful or two of cream, and two eggs. put her on a spit and roast her before a slow fire; you may lard your turkey with fat bacon; if the turkey be young, an hour and a quarter will roast it. for the sauce, take a little white gravy, an onion, a few bread-crumbs, and a little whole pepper, let them boil well together, put to them a little flour and a lump of butter, which pour upon the turkey; you may lay round your turkey forc'd-meat-balls. garnish your dish with slices of lemon. 65. _to make a rich_ turkey pie. take a young turkey and bone her, only leave in the thigh bones and short pinions; take a large fowl and bone it, a little shred mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and season the turkey and fowl in the inside; lay the fowl in the inside of the low part of the turkey, and stuff the breast with a little white stuffing, (the same white stuffing as you made for the boiled turkey,) take a deep dish, lay a paste over it, and leave no paste in the bottom; lay in the turkey, and lay round it a few forc'd-meat-balls, put in half a pound of butter, and a jill of water, then close up the pie, an hour and a half will bake it; when it comes from the oven take off the lid, put in a pint of stew'd oysters, and the yolks of six or eight eggs, lay them at an equal distance round the turkey; you must not stew your oysters in gravy but in water, and pour them upon your turkey's breast; lay round six or eight artichoke-bottoms fry'd, so serve it up without the lid; you must take the fat out of the pie before you put in the oysters. 66. _to make a_ turkey _a-la-daube_. take a large turkey and truss it; take down the breast-bone, and stuff it in the breast with some stuffing, as you did the roast turkey, lard it with bacon, then rub the skin of the turkey with the yolk of an egg, and strow over it a little nutmeg, pepper, salt, and a few bread-crumbs, then put it into a copper-dish and fend it to the oven; when you dish it up make for the turkey brown gravy-sauce; shred into your sauce a few oysters and mushrooms; lay round artichoke-bottoms fry'd, stew'd pallets, forc'd-meat-balls, and a little crisp bacon. garnish your dish with pickled mushrooms, and slices of lemon. this is a proper dish for a remove. 67. potted turkey. take a turkey, bone her as you did for the pie, and season it very well in the inside and outside with mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt, then put it into a pot that you design to keep it in, put over it a pound of butter, when it is baked draw from it the gravy, and take off the fat, then squeeze it down very tight in the pot; and to keep it down lay upon it a weight; when it's cold take part of the butter that came from it, and clarify a little more with it to cover your turkey, and keep it in a cool place for use; you may put a fowl in the belly if you please. ducks or geese are potted the same way. 68. _how to jugg_ pigeons. take six or eight pigeons and truss them, season them with nutmeg, pepper and salt. _to make the stuffing_. take the livers and shred them with beef-suet, bread-crumbs, parsley, sweet-marjoram, and two eggs, mix all together, then stuff your pigeons sowing them up at both ends, and put them into your jugg with the breast downwards, with half a pound of butter; stop up the jugg close with a cloth that no steam can get out, then set them in a pot of water to boil; they will take above two hours stewing; mind you keep your pot full of water, and boiling all the time; when they are enough clear from them the gravy, and take the fat clean off; put to your gravy a spoonful of cream, a little lemon-peel, an anchovy shred, a few mushrooms, and a little white wine, thicken it with a little flour and butter, then dish up your pigeons, and pour over them the sauce. garnish the dish with mushrooms and slices of lemon. this is proper for a side dish. 69. mirranaded pigeons. take six pigeons, and truss them as you would do for baking, break the breast-bones, season and stuff them as you did for jugging, put them into a little deep dish and lay over them half a pound of butter; put into your dish a little water. take half a pound of rice, cree it soft as you would do for eating, and pour it upon the back of a sieve, let it stand while it is cold, then take a spoon and flat it like paste on your hand, and lay on the breast of every pigeon a cake; lay round your dish some puff-paste not over thin, and send them to the oven; about half an hour will bake them. this is proper at noon for a side-dish. 70. _to stew_ pigeons. take your pigeons, season and stuff them, flat the breast-bone, and truss them up as you would do for baking, dredge them over with a little flour, and fry them in butter, turning them round till all sides be brown, then put them into a stew-pan with as much brown gravy as will cover them, and let them stew whilst your pigeons be enough; then take part of the gravy, an anchovy shred, a little catchup, a small onion, or a shalot, and a little juice of lemon for sauce, pour it over your pigeons, and lay round them forc'd-meat-balls and crisp bacon. garnish your dish with crisp parsley and lemon. 71. _to broil_ pigeons _whole_. take your pigeons, season and stuff them with the same stuffing you did jugg'd pigeons, broil them either before a fire or in an oven; when they are enough take the gravy from them, and take off the fat, then put to the gravy two or three spoonfuls of water, a little boil'd parsley shred, and thicken your sauce. garnish your dish with crisp parsley. 72. _boiled_ pigeons _with fricassy sauce_. take your pigeons, and when you have drawn and truss'd them up, break the breast bone, and lay them in milk and water to make them white, tie them in a cloth and boil them in milk and water; when you dish them up put to them white fricassy sauce, only adding a few shred mushrooms. garnish with crisp parsley and sippets. 73. _to pot_ pigeons. take your pigeons and skewer them with their feet cross over the breast, to stand up; season them with pepper and salt, and roast them; so put them into your pot, setting the feet up; when they are cold cover them up with clarified butter. 74. _to stew_ pallets. take three or four large beast pallets and boil them very tender, blanch and cut them in long pieces the length of your finger, then in small bits the cross way; shake them up with a little good gravy and a lump of butter; season them with a little nutmeg and salt, put in a spoonful of white wine, and thicken it with the yolks of eggs as you do, a white fricassy. 75. _to make a fricassy of_ pig's ears. take three or four pig's ears as large as you would have your dish in bigness, clean and boil them very tender, cut them in small pieces the length of your finger, and fry them with butter till they be brown; so put them into a stew-pan with a little brown gravy, a lump of butter, a spoonful of vinegar, and a little mustard and salt, thicken'd with flour; take two or three pig's feet and boil them very tender, fit for eating, then cut them in two and take out the large bones, dip them in egg, and strew over them a few bread-crumbs, season them with pepper and salt; you may either fry or broil them, and lay them in the middle of your dish with the pig's ears. they are proper for a side-dish. 76. _to make a fricassy of_ tripes. take the whitest seam tripes you can get and cut them in long pieces, put them into a stew-pan with a little good gravy, a few bread-crumbs, a lump of butter, a little vinegar to your taste, and a little mustard if you like it; shake it up altogether with a little shred parsley. garnish your dish with sippets. this is proper for a side-dish. 77. _to make a fricassy of_ veal-sweet-breads. take five or six veal-sweet-breads, according as you would have your dish in bigness, and boil them in water, cut them in thin slices the length-way, dip them in egg, season them with pepper and salt, fry them a light brown; then put them into a stew-pan with a little brown gravy, a spoonful of white wine or juice of lemon, whether you please; thicken it up with flour and butter; and serve it up. garnish your dish with crisp parsley. 78. _to make a white fricassy of_ tripes, _to eat like_ chickens. take the whitest and the thickest seam tripe you can get, cut the white part in thin slices, put it into a stew-pan with a little white gravy, juice of lemon and lemon-peel shred, also a spoonful of white wine; take the yolks of two or three eggs and beat them very well, put to them a little thick cream, shred parsley, and two or three chives if you have any; shake altogether over the stove while it be as thick as cream, but don't let it boil for fear it curdle. garnish your dish with sippets, slic'd lemon or mushrooms, and serve it up. 79. _to make a brown fricassy of_ eggs. take eight or ten eggs, according to the bigness you design your dish, boil them hard, put them in water, take off the shell, fry them in butter whilst they be a deep brown, put them into a stew-pan with a little brown gravy, and a lump of butter, so thicken it up with flour; take two or three eggs, lay them in the middle of the dish, then take the other, cut them in two, and set them with the small ends upwards round the dish; fry some sippets and lay round them. garnish your dish with crisp parsley. this is proper for a side-dish in lent or any other time. 80. _to make a white fricassy of_ eggs. take ten or twelve eggs, boil them hard and pill them, put them in a stew-pan with a little white gravy; take the yolks of two or three eggs, beat them very well, and put to them two or three spoonfuls of cream, a spoonful of white wine, a little juice of lemon, shred parsley, and salt to your taste; shake altogether over the stove till it be as thick as cream, but don't let it boil; take your eggs and lay one part whole on the dish, the rest cut in halves and quarters, and lay them round your dish; you must not cut them till you lay them on the dish. garnish your dish with sippets, and serve it up. 81. _to stew_ eggs _in_ gravy. take a little gravy, pour it into a little pewter dish, and set it over a stove, when it is hot break in as many eggs as will cover the dish bottom, keep pouring the gravy over them with a spoon 'till they are white at the top, when they are enough strow over them a little salt; fry some square sippets of bread in butter, prick them with the small ends upward, and serve them up. 82. _how to collar a_ piece _of_ beef _to eat cold_. take a flank of beef or pale-board, which you can get, bone them and take off the inner skin; nick your beef about an inch distance, but mind you don't cut thro' the skin of the outside; then take two ounces of saltpetre, and beat it small, and take a large handful of common salt and mix them together, first sprinkling your beef over with a little water, and lay it in an earthen dish, then strinkle over your salt, so let it stand, four or five days, then take a pretty large quantity of all sorts of mild sweet herbs, pick and shred them very small, take some bacon and cut it in long pieces the thickness of your finger, then take your beef and lay one layer of bacon in every nick; and another of the greens; when you have done season your beef with a little beat mace, pepper, salt and nutmeg; you may add a little neat's tongue, and an anchovy in some of the nicks; so roll it up tight, bind it in a cloth with coarse inkle round it, put it into a large stew-pot and cover it with water; let the beef lie with the end downwards, put to the pickle that was in the beef when it lay in salt, set it in a slow oven all the night, then take it out and bind it tight, and tie up both ends, the next day take it out of the cloth, and put it into pickle; you must take off the fat and boil the pickle, put in a handful of salt, a few bay leaves, a little whole jamaica and black pepper, a quart of stale strong beer, a little vinegar and alegar; if you make the pickle very good, it will keep five or six months very well; if your beef be not too much baked it will cut all in diamonds. 83. _to roll a_ breast of veal _to eat cold_. take a large breast of veal, fat and white, bone it and cut it in two, season it with mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt, in one part you may strinkle a few sweet herbs shred fine, roll them tight up, bind them will with coarse ickle, so boil it an hour and a half; you may make the same pickle as you did for the beef, excepting the strong beer; when it is enough to take it up, and bind it as you did the beef, so hang it up whilst it be cold. 84. _to pot_ tongues. take your tongues and salt them with saltpetre, common salt and bay salt, let them lie ten days, then take them out and boil them whilst they will blanch, cut off the lower part of the tongues, then season them with mace, pepper, nutmeg and salt, put them into a pot and send them to the oven, and the low part of your tongues that you cut off lay upon your tongues, and one pound of butter, then let them bake whilst they are tender, then take them out of the pot, throw over them a little more seasoning, put them into the pot you design to keep them in, press them down very tight, lay over them a weight, and let them stand all night, then cover them with clarified butter: you must not salt your tongues as you do for hanging. 85. _how to pot_ venison. take your venison and cut it in thin pieces, season it with pepper and salt, put it into your pot, lay over it some butter and a little beef-suet, let it stand all night in the oven; when it is baked beat them in a marble mortar or wooden-bowl, put in part of the gravy, and all the fat you take from it; when you have beat it put into your pot, then take the fat lap of a shoulder of mutton, take off the out-skin, and roast it, when it is roasted and cold, cut it in long pieces the thickness of your finger; when you put the venison into the pot, put it in at three times, betwixt every one lay the mutton cross your pot, at an equal distance; if you cut it the right way it will cut all in diamonds; leave some of the venison to lay on the top, and cover it with clarified butter; to keep it for use. 86. _to pot all sorts of_ wild-fowl. when the wild-fowl are dressed take a paste-pin, and beat them on the breast 'till they are flat; before you roast them season them with mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt; you must not roast them over much; when you dreaw them season them on the out-side, and set them on one end to drain out the gravy, and put them into your pot; you may put in two layers; if you press them very flat, cover them with clarified butter when they are cold. 87. _how to pot_ beef. take two pounds of the slice or buttock, season it with about two ounces of saltpetre and a little common salt, let it lie two or three days, send it to the oven, and season it with a little pepper, salt and mace; lay over your beef half a pound of butter or beef suet, and let it stand all night in the oven to stew; take from it the gravy and the butter, and beat them (with the beef) in a bowl, then take a quarter of a pound of anchovies, bone them, and beat them too with a little of the gravy; if it be not seasoned enough to your taste, put to it a little more seasoning; put is close down in a pot, and when it is cold cover it up with butter, and keep it for use. 88. _to ragoo a_ rump _of_ beef. take a rump of beef, lard it with bacon and spices, betwixt the larding, stuff it with forced meat, made of a pound of veal, three quarters of a pound of beef-suet, a quarter of a pound of fat bacon boiled and shred well by itself, a good quantity of parsley, winter savoury, thyme, sweet-marjoram, and an onion, mix all this together, season it with mace cloves, cinnamon, salt, jamaica and black pepper, and some grated bread, work the forc'd-meat up with three whites and two yolks of eggs, then stuff it, and lay some rough suet in a stew pan with your beef upon it, let it fry till it be brown then put in some water, a bunch of sweet herbs, a large onion stuffed with cloves, sliced turnips, carrots cut as large as the yolk of an egg, some whole pepper and salt, half a pint of claret, cover it close, and let it stew six or seven hours over a gentle fire, turning it very often. 89. _how to make a_ sauce _for it_. take truffles, morels, sweet-breads, diced pallets boiled tender, three anchovies, and some lemon-peel, put these into some brown gravy and stew them; if you do not think it thick enough, dredge in a little flour, and just before you pour it on your beef put in a little white wine and vinegar, and serve it up hot. 90. _sauce for boiled_ rabbets. take a few onions, boil them thoroughly, shifting them in water often, mix them well together with a little melted butter and water. some add a little pulp of apple and mustard. 91. _to salt a_ leg _of_ mutton _to eat like_ ham. take a leg of mutton, an ounce of saltpetre, two ounces of bay-salt, rub it in very well, take a quarter of a pound of coarse sugar, mix it with two or three handfuls of common salt, then take and salt it very well, and let it lie a week, so hang it up, and keep it for use, after it is dry use it, the sooner the better; it won't keep so long as ham. 92. _how to salt_ ham _or_ tongues. take a middling ham, two ounces of saltpetre, a quarter of a pound of bay-salt, beat them together, and rub them on your ham very well, before you salt it on the inside, set your salt before the fire to warm; to every ham take half a pound of coarse sugar, mix to it a little of the salt, and rub it in very well, let it lie for a week or ten days, then salt it again very well, and let it lie another week or ten days, then hang it to dry, not very near the fire, nor over much in the air. take your tongues and clean them, and cut off the root, then take two ounces of saltpetre, a quarter of a pound of bay-salt well beaten, three or four tongues, according as they are in bigness, lay them on a thing by themselves, for if you lay them under your bacon it flats your tongues, and spoils them; salt them very well, and let them lie as long as the hams with the skin side downwards: you may do a rump of beef the same way, only leave out the sugar. [note: the text for the next three recipes--93, 94 and 95--was missing from our scans. only the last part of recipe number 95 is available.] 93. 94. 95. ... bacon, you may put in two or three slices when you send them to the oven. 96. _how to make a_ hare-pie. parboil the hare, take out the bones, and beat the meat in a mortar with some fat pork or new bacon, then soak it in claret all night, the next day take it out, season it with pepper, salt and nutmeg, then lay the back bone into the middle of the pie, put the meat about it with about three quarters of a pound of butter, and bake it in a puff-paste, but lay no paste in the bottom of the dish. 97. _to make a_ hare-pie _another way_. take the flesh of a hare after it is skined, and string it: take a pound of beef-suet or marrow shred small, with sweet-marjoram, parsley and shalots, take the hare, cut it in pieces, season it with mace, pepper, salt and nutmeg, then bake it either in cold or hot paste, and when it is baked, open it and put to it some melted butter. 98. _to make_ pig _royal_. take a pig and roast it the same way as you did for lamb, when you draw it you must not cut it up, when it is cold you must lard it with bacon, cut not your layers too small, if you do they will melt away, cut them about an inch and a quarter long; you must put one row down the back, and one on either side, then strinkle it over with a few breadcrumbs and a little salt, and set it in the oven, an hour will bake it, but mind your oven be not too hot; you must take another pig of a less size, roast it, cut it up, and lie it on each side: the sauce you make for a roast pig will serve for both. this is proper for a bottom dish at a grand entertainment. 99. _to roast_ veal _a savoury way_. when you have stuffed your veal, strow some of the ingredients over it; when it is roasted make your sauce of what drops from the meat, put an anchovy in water, and when dissolved pour it into the dripping-pan with a large lump of butter and oysters: toss it up with flour to thicken it. 100. _to make a_ ham pie. cut the ham round, and lay it in water all night, boil it tender as you would do for eating, take off the skin, strew over it a little pepper, and bake it in a deep dish, put to it a pint of water, and half a pound of butter; you must bake it in puff-paste; but lay no paste in the bottom of the dish; when you send it to the table send it without a lid. it is proper for a top or bottom dish either summer or winter. 101. _to make a_ neat's tongue pie. take two or three tongues, (according as you would have your pie in bigness) cut off the roots and low parts, take two ounces of saltpetre, a little bay salt, rub them very well, lay them on an earthen dish with the skin side downwards, let them lie for a week or ten days, whilst they be very red, then boil them as tender as you would have them for eating blanch and season with a little pepper and salt, flat them as much as you can, bake them in puff paste in a deep dish, but lay no paste in the bottom, put to them a little gravy, and half a pound of butter; lay your tongues with the wrong side upwards, when they are baked turn them, and serve it up without a lid. 102. _to broil_ sheep or hog's tongues. boil, blanch, and split your tongues, season them with a little pepper and salt, then dip them in egg, strow over them a few bread-crumbs, and broil them whilst they be brown; serve them up with a little gravy and butter. 103. _to pickle_ pork. cut off the leg, shoulder pieces, the bloody neck and the spare-rib as bare as you can, then cut the middle pieces as large as they can lie in the tub, salt them with saltpetre, bay-salt, and white salt; your saltpetre must be beat small, and mix'd with the other salts; half a peck of white salt, a quart of bay-salt, and half a pound of saltpetre, is enough for a large hog; you must rub the pork very well with your salt, then lay a thick layer of salt all over the tub, then a piece of pork, and do so till all your pork is in; lay the skin side downwards, fill up all the hollows and sides of the tub with little pieces that are not bloody press all down as close as possible, and lay on a good layer of salt on the top, then lay on the legs and shoulder pieces, which must be used first, the rest will keep two years if not pulled up, nor the pickle poured from it. you must observe to see it covered with pickle. 104. _to fricassy_ calf's feet _white_. dress the calf's feet, boil them as you would do for eating, take out the long bones, cut them in two, and put them into a stew-pan with a little white gravy, and a spoonful or two of white wine; take the yolks of two or three eggs, two or three spoonfuls of cream, grate in a little nutmeg and salt, and shake all together with a lump of butter. garnish your dish with slices of lemon and currans, and so serve them up. 105. _to roll a_ pig's _head to eat like brawn_. take a large pig's head, cut off the groin ends, crack the bones and put it in water, shift it once or twice, cut off the ears, then boil it so tender that the bones will slip out, nick it with a knife in the thick part of the head, throw over it a pretty large handful of salt; take half a dozen of large neat's feet, boil them while they be soft, split them, and take out all the bones and black bits; take a strong coarse cloth, and lay the feet with the skin side downwards, with all the loose pieces in the inside; press them with your hand to make them of an equal thickness, lay them at that length that they will reach round the head, and throw over them a handful of salt, then lay the head across, one thick part one way and the other another, that the fat may appear alike at both ends; leave one foot out to lay at the top to make a lantern to reach round, bind it with filleting as you would do brawn, and tie it very close at both ends; you may take it out of the cloth the next day, take off the filleting and wash it, wrap it about again very tight, and keep it in brawn-pickle. this has been often taken for real brawn. 106. _how to fry_ calf's feet _in butter_. take four calf's feet and blanch them, boil them as you would do for eating, take out the large bones and cut them in two, beat a spoonful of wheat flour and four eggs together, put to it a little nutmeg, pepper and salt, dip in your calf's feet, and fry them in butter a light brown, and lay them upon your dish with a little melted butter over them. garnish with slices of lemon and serve them up. 107. _how to make_ savoury pattees. take the kidney of a loyn of veal before it be roasted, cut it in thin slices, season it with mace, pepper and salt, and make your pattees; lay in every patty a slice, and either bake or fry them. you may make marrow pattees the same way. 108. _to make_ egg pies. take and boil half a dozen eggs, half a dozen apples, a pound and a half of beef-suet, a pound of currans, and shred them, so season it with mace, nutmeg and sugar to your taste, a spoonful or two of brandy, and sweet meats, if you please. 109. _to make a sweet_ chicken pie. break the chicken bones, cut them in little bits, season them lightly with mace and salt, take the yolks of four eggs boiled hard and quartered, five artichoke-bottoms, half a pound of sun raisins stoned, half a pound of citron, half a pound of lemon, half a pound of marrow, a few forc'd-meat-balls, and half a pound of currans well cleaned, so make a light puff-paste, but put no paste in the bottom; when it is baked take a little white wine, a little juice of either orange or lemon, the yolk of an egg well beat, and mix them together, make it hot and put it into your pie; when you serve it up take the same ingredients you use for a lamb or veal pie, only leave out the artichokes. 110. _to roast_ tongues. cut off the roots of two tongues, take three ounces of saltpetre, a little bay-salt and common salt, rub them very well, let them lie a week or ten days to make them red, but not salt, so boil them tender as they will blanch, strow over them a few bread crumbs, set them before the fire to brown on every side. _to make_ sauce _for the_ tongues. take a few bread crumbs, and as much water as will wet them, then put in claret till they be red, and a little beat cinnamon, sweeten it to your taste, put a little gravy on the dish with your tongues, and the sweet sauce in two basons, set them on each side, so serve them up. 111. _to fry_ calf's feet _in eggs_. boil your calf's feet as you would do for eating, take out the long bones and split them in two, when they are cold season 'em with a little pepper, salt and nutmeg; take three eggs, put to them a spoonful of flour, so dip the feet in it and fry them in butter; you must have a little gravy and butter for sauce. garnish with currans, so serve them up. 112. _to make a_ minc'd pie _of calf's feet_. take two or three calf's feet, and boil them as you would do for eating, take out the long bones, shred them very fine, put to them double their weight of beef-suet shred fine, and about a pound of currans well cleaned, a quarter of a pound of candid orange and citron cut in small pieces, half a pound of sugar, a little salt, a quarter of an ounce of mace and a large nutmeg, beat them together, put in a little juice of lemon or verjuice to your taste, a glass of mountain wine or sack, which you please, so mix all together; bake them in puff-paste. 113. _to roast a_ woodcock. when you have dress'd your woodcock, and drawn it under the leg, take out the bitter bit, put in the trales again; whilst the woodcock is roasting set under it an earthen dish with either water in or small gravy, let the woodcock drop into it, take the gravy and put to it a little butter, and thicken it with flour; your woodcock will take about ten minutes roasting if you have a brisk fire; when you dish it up lay round it wheat bread toasts, and pour the sauce over the toasts, and serve it up. you may roast a partridge the same way, only add crumb sauce in a bason. 114. _to make a_ calf's head pie. take a calf's head and clean it, boil it as you would do for hashing, when it is cold cut it in thin slices, and season it with a little black pepper, nutmeg, salt, a few shred capers, a few oysters and cockles, two or three mushrooms, and green lemon-peel, mix them all well together, put them into your pie; it must be a standing pie baked in a flat pewter dish, with a rim of puff-paste round the edge; when you have filled the pie with the meat, lay on forc'd-meat-balls, and the yolks of some hard eggs, put in a little small gravy and butter; when it comes from the oven take off the lid, put into it a little white wine to your taste, and shake up the pie, so serve it up without lid. 115. _to make a_ calf's foot pie. take two or three calf's feet, according as you would have your pie in bigness, boil and bone them as you would do for eating, and when cold cut them in thin slices; take about three quarters of a pound of beef-suet shred fine, half a pound of raisins stoned, half a pound of cleaned currans, a little mace and nutmeg, green lemon-peel, salt, sugar, and candid lemon or orange, mix altogether, and put them in a dish, make a good puff-paste, but let there be no paste in the bottom of the dish; when it is baked, take off the lid, and squeeze in a little lemon or verjuice, cut the lid in sippets and lay round. 116. _to make a_ woodcock pie. take three or four brace of woodcocks, according as you would have the pie in bigness, dress and skewer them as you would do for roasting, draw them, and season the inside with a little pepper, salt and mace, but don't wash them, put the trales into the belly again, but nothing else, for there is something in them that gives them a more bitterish taste in the baking than in the roasting, when you put them into the dish lay them with the breast downwards, beat them upon the breast as flat as you can; you must season them on the outside as you do the inside; bake them in puff-paste, but lay none in the bottom of the dish, put to them a jill of gravy and a little butter; you must be very careful your pie be not too much baked; when you serve it up take off the lid and turn the woodcocks with the breast upwards. you may bake partridge the same way. 117. _to pickle_ pigeons. take your pigeons and bone them; you must begin to bone them at the neck and turn the skin downwards, when they are boned season them with pepper, salt and nutmeg, sew up both ends, and boil them in water and white wine vinegar, a few bay leaves, a little whole pepper and salt; when they are enough take them out of the pickle, and boil it down with a little more salt, when it is cold put in the pigeons and keep them for use. 118. _to make a sweet_ veal pie. take a loin of veal, cut off the thin part length ways, cut the rest in thin slices, as much as you have occasion for, flat it with your bill, and cut off the bone ends next the chine, season it with nutmeg and salt; take half a pound of raisins stoned, and half a pound of currans well clean'd, mix all together, and lay a few of them at the bottom of the dish, lay a layer of meat; and betwixt every layer lay on your fruit, but leave some for the top; you must make a puff-paste; but lay none in the bottom of the dish; when you have filled your pie, put in a jill of water and a little butter, when it is baked have a caudle to put into it. to make the caudle, see in receipt 177. 119. minc'd pies _another way_. take a pound of the finest seam tripes you can get, a pound and a half of currans well cleaned, two, three or four apples pared and shred very fine, a little green lemon-peel and mace shred, a large nutmeg, a glass of sack or brandy, (which you please) half a pound of sugar, and a little salt, so mix them well together, and fill your patty-pans, then stick five or six bits of candid lemon or orange in every petty-pan, cover them, and when baked they are fit for use. 120. _to make a savoury_ chicken pie. take half a dozen small chickens, season them with mace, pepper and salt, both inside and out; then take three or four veal sweet-breads, season them with the same, and lay round them a few forc'd-meat-balls, put in a little water and butter; take a little white sweet gravy not over strong, shred a few oysters if you have any, and a little lemon-peel, squeeze in a little lemon juice, not to make it sour; if you have no oysters take the whitest of your sweet breads and boil them, cut them small, and put them in your gravy, thicken it with a little butter and flour; when you open the pie, if there is any fat, skim it off, and pour the sauce over the chicken breasts; so serve it up without lid. 121. _to roast a_ hanch _of_ venison. take a hanch of venison and spit it, then take a little bread meal, knead and roll it very thin, lay it over the fat part of your venison with a paper over it, tye it round your venison, with a pack-thread; if it be a large hanch it will take four hours roasting, and a midling hanch three hours; keep it basting all the time you roast it; when you dish it up put a little gravy in the dish and sweet sauce in a bason; half an hour before you draw your venison take off the paste, baste it, and let it be a light brown. 122. _to make sweet_ pattees. take the kidney of a loin of veal with the fat, when roasted shred it very fine, put to it a little shred mace, nutmeg and salt, about half a pound of currans, the juice of a lemon, and sugar to your taste, then bake them in puff-paste; you may either fry or bake them. they are proper for a side-dish. 123. _to make_ beef-rolls. cut your beef thin as for scotch collops, beat it very well, and season it with salt, jamaica and white pepper, mace, nutmeg, sweet marjoram, parsley, thyme, and a little onion shred small, rub them on the collops on one side, then take long bits of beef-suet and roll in them, tying them up with a thread; flour them well, and fry them in butter very brown; then have ready some good gravy and stew them an hour and half, stirring them often, and keep them covered, when they are enough take off the threads, and put in a little flour, with a good lump of butter, and squeeze in some lemon, then they are ready for use. 124. _to make a_ herring-pie _of_ white salt herrings. take five or six salt herrings, wash them very well, lay them in a pretty quantity of water all night to take out the saltness, season them with a little black pepper, three or four middling onions pill'd and shred very fine lay one part of them at the bottom of the pie, and the other at the top; to five or six herrings put in half a pound of butter, then lay in your herrings whole, only take off the heads; make them into a standing pie with a thin crust. 125. _how to_ collar pig. take a large pig that is fat, about a month old, kill and dress it, cut off the head, cut it in two down the back and bone it, then cut it in three or four pieces, wash it in a little water to take out the blood: take a little milk and water just warm, put in your pig, let it lie about a day and a night, shift it two or three times in that time to make it white, then take it out and wipe it very well with a dry cloth, and season it with mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt; take a little shred of parsley and strinkle over two of the quarters, so roll them up in a fine soft cloth, tie it up at both ends, bind it tight with a little filletting or coarse inkle, and boil it in milk and water with a little salt; it will take about an hour and a half boiling; when it is enough bind it up tight in your cloth again, hang it up whilst it be cold. for the pickle boil a little milk and water, a few bay leaves and a little salt; when it is cold take your pig out of the cloths and put it into the pickle; you must shift it out of your pickle two or three times to make it white, the last pickle make strong, and put in a little whole pepper, a pretty large handful of salt, a few bay leaves, and so keep it for use. 126. _to_ collar salmon. take the side of a middling salmon, and cut off the head, take out all the bones and the outside, season it with mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt, roll it tight up in a cloth, boil it, and bind it up with pickle; it will take about an hour boiling; when it is boiled bind it tight again, when cold take it very carefully out of the cloth and bind it about with filleting; you must not take off the filleting but as it is eaten. _to make_ pickle _to keep it in_. take two or three quarts of water, a jill of vinegar, a little jamaica pepper and whole pepper, a large handful of salt, boil them altogether, and when it is cold put in your salmon, so keep it for use: if your pickle don't keep you must renew it. you may collar pike the same way. 127. _to make an_ oyster pie. take a pint of the largest oysters you can get, clean them very well in their own liquor, if you have not liquor enough, add to them three or four spoonfuls of water; take the kidney of a loin of veal, cut it in thin slices, and season it with a little pepper and salt, lay the slices in the bottom of the dish, (but there must be no paste in the bottom of the dish) cover them with the oysters, strow over a little of the seasoning as you did for the veal; take the marrow of one or two bones, lay it over your oysters and cover them with puff-paste; when it is baked take off the lid, put into it a spoonful or two of white wine, shake it up altogether, and serve it up. it is proper for a side dish, either for noon or night. 128. _to butter_ crab _and_ lobster. dress all the meat out of the belly and claws of your lobster, put it into a stew-pan, with two or three spoonfuls of water, a spoonful or two of white wine vinegar, a little pepper, shred mace, and a lump of butter, shake it over the stove till it be very hot, but do not let it boil, if you do it will oil; put it into your dish, and lay round it your small claws:--it is as proper to put it in scallop shells as on a dish. 129. _to roast a_ lobster. if your lobster be alive tie it to the spit, roast and baste it for half an hour; if it be boiled you must put it in boiling water, and let it have one boil, then lie it in a dripping-pan and baste it; when you lay it upon the dish split the tail, and lay it on each side, so serve it up with melted butter in a china cup. 130. _to make a_ quaking pudding. take eight eggs and beat them very well, put to them three spoonfuls of london flour, a little salt, three jills of cream, and boil it with a stick of cinnamon and a blade of mace; when it is cold mix it to your eggs and flour, butter your cloth, and do not give it over much room in your cloth; about half an hour will boil it; you must turn it in the boiling or the flour will settle, so serve it up with a little melted butter. 131. _a_ hunting pudding. take a pound of fine flour, a pound of beef-suet shred fine, three quarters of a pound of currans well cleaned, a quartern of raisins stoned and shred, five eggs, a little lemon-peel shred fine, half a nutmeg grated, a jill of cream, a little salt, about two spoonfuls of sugar, and a little brandy, so mix all well together, and tie it up right in your cloth; it will take two hours boiling; you must have a little white wine and butter for your sauce. 132. _a_ calf's-foot pudding. take two calf's feet, when they are clean'd boil them as you would for eating; take out all the bones; when they are cold shred them in a wooden bowl as small as bread crumbs; then take the crumbs of a penny loaf, three quarters of a pound of beef suet shred fine, grate in half a nutmeg, take half a pound of currans well washed, half a pound of raisins stoned and shred, half a pound of sugar, six eggs, and a little salt, mix them all together very well, with as much cream as will wet them, so butter your cloth and tie it up tight; it will take two hours boiling; you may if you please stick it with a little orange, and serve it up. 133. _a_ sagoo pudding. take three or four ounces of sagoo, and wash it in two or three waters, set it on to boil in a pint of water, when you think it is enough take it up, set it to cool, and take half of a candid lemon shred fine, grate in half of a nutmeg, mix two ounces of jordan almonds blanched, grate in three ounces of bisket if you have it, if not a few bread-crumbs grated, a little rose-water and half a pint of cream; then take six eggs, leave out two of the whites, beat them with a spoonful or two of sack, put them to your sagoo, with about half a pound of clarified butter, mix them all together, and sweeten it with fine sugar, put in a little salt, and bake it in a dish with a little puff-paste about the dish edge, when you serve it up you may stick a little citron or candid orange, or any sweetmeats you please. 134. _a_ marrow pudding. take a penny loaf, take off the outside, then cut one half in thin slices; take the marrow of two bones, half a pound of currans well cleaned, shred your marrow, and strinkle a little marrow and currans over the dish; if you have not marrow enough you may add to it a little beef-suet shred fine; take five eggs and beat them very well, put to them three jills of milk, grate in half a nutmeg, sweeten it to your taste, mix all together, pour it over your pudding, and save a little marrow to strinkle over the top of your pudding; when you send it to the oven lye a puff-paste around the dish edge. 135. _a_ carrot pudding. take three or four clear red carrots, boil and peel them, take the red part of the carrot, beat it very fine in a marble mortar, put to it the crumbs of a penny loaf, six eggs, half a pound of clarified butter, two or three spoonfuls of rose water, a little lemon-peel shred, grate in a little nutmeg, mix them well together, bake it with a puff-paste round your dish, and have a little white wine, butter and sugar, for the sauce. 136. _a_ ground rice pudding. take half a pound of ground rice, half cree it in a quart of milk, when it is cold put to it five eggs well beat, a jill of cream, a little lemon-peel shred fine, half a nutmeg grated, half a pound of butter, and half a pound of sugar, mix them well together, put them into your dish with a little salt, and bake it with a puff-paste round your dish; have a little rose-water, butter and sugar to pour over it, you may prick in it candid lemon or citron if you please. half of the above quantity will make a pudding for a side-dish. 137. _a_ potatoe pudding. take three or four large potatoes, boil them as you would do for eating, beat them with a little rose-water and a glass of sack in a marble mortar, put to them half a pound of sugar, six eggs, half a pound of melted butter, half a pound of currans well cleaned, a little shred lemon-peel, and candid orange, mix altogether and serve it up. 138. _an_ apple pudding. take half a dozen large codlins, or pippens, roast them and take out the pulp; take eight eggs, (leave out six of the whites) half a pound of fine powder sugar, beat your eggs and sugar well together, and put to them the pulp of your apples, half a pound of clarified butter, a little lemon-peel shred fine, a handful of bread crumbs or bisket, four ounces of candid orange or citron, and bake it with a thin paste under it. 139. _an_ orange pudding. take three large seville oranges, the clearest kind you can get, grate off the out-rhine; take eight eggs, (leave out six of the whites) half a pound of double refin'd sugar, beat and put it to your eggs, then beat them both together for half an hour; take three ounces of sweet almonds blanch'd, beat them with a spoonful or two of fair water to keep them from oiling, half a pound of butter, melt it without water, and the juice of two oranges, then put in the rasping of your oranges, and mix all together; lay a thin paste over your dish and bake it, but not in too hot an oven. 140. _an_ orange pudding _another way_. take half a pound of candid orange, cut them in thin slices, and beat them in a marble mortar to a pulp; take six eggs, (leave out half of the whites) half a pound of butter, and the juice of one orange; mix them together, and sweeten it with fine powder sugar, then bake it with thin paste under it. 141. _an_ orange pudding _another way_. take three or four seville oranges, the clearest skins you can get, pare them very thin, boil the peel in a pretty quantity of water, shift them two or three times in the boiling to take out the bitter taste; when it is boiled you must beat it very fine in a marble mortar; take ten eggs, (leave out six of the whites) three quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, beat it and put it to your eggs, beat them together for half an hour, put to them half a pound of melter butter, and the juice of two or three oranges, as they are of goodness, mix all together, and bake it with a thin paste over your dish. this will make cheese-cakes as well as a pudding. 142. _an_ orange pudding _another way_. take five or six seville oranges, grate them and make a hole in the top, take out all the meat, and boil the skin very tender, shifting them in the boiling to take off the bitter taste; take half a round of long bisket, slice and scald them with a little cream, beat six eggs and put to your bisket; take half a pound of currans, wash them clean, grate in half a nutmeg, put in a little salt and a glass of sack, beat all together, then put it into your orange skin, tie them tight in a piece of fine cloth, every one separate; about three quarters of an hour will boil them: you must have a little white wine, butter and sugar for sauce. 143. _to make an_ orange pie. take half a dozen seville oranges, chip them very fine as you would do for preserving, make a little hole in the top, and scope out all the meat, as you would do an apple, you must boil them whilst they are tender, and shift them two or three times to take off the bitter taste; take six or eight apples, according as they are in bigness, pare and slice them, and put to them part of the pulp of your oranges, and pick out the strings and pippens, put to them half a pound of fine powder sugar, so boil it up over a slow fire, as you would do for puffs, and fill your oranges with it; they must be baked in a deep delf dish with no paste under them; when you put them into your dish put under them three quarters of a pound of fine powder sugar, put in as much water as will wet your sugar, and put your oranges with the open side uppermost; it will take about an hour and half baking in a slow oven; lie over them a light puff-paste; when you dish it up take off the lid, and turn the oranges in the pie, cut the lid in sippets, and set them at an equal distance, to serve it up. 144. _to make a quaking_ pudding _another way_. take a pint of cream, boil it with one stick of cinnamon, take out the spice when it is boiled, then take the yolks of eight eggs, and four whites, beat them very well with some sack, and mix your eggs with the cream, a little sugar and salt, half a penny wheat loaf, a spoonful of flour, a quarter of a pound of almonds blanch'd and beat fine, beat them altogether, wet a thick cloth, flour it, and put it in when the pot boils; it must boil an hour at least; melted butter, sack and sugar is sauce for it; stick blanch'd almonds and candid orange-peel on the top, so serve it up. 145. _to make_ plumb porridge. take two shanks of beef, and ten quarts of water, let it boil over a slow fire till it be tender, and when the broth is strong, strain it out, wipe the pot and put in the broth again, slice in two penny loaves thin, cutting off the top and bottom, put some of the liquor to it, cover it up and let it stand for a quarter of an hour, so put it into the pot again, and let it boil a quarter of an hour, then put in four pounds of currans, and let them boil a little; then put in two pounds of raisins, and two pounds of prunes, let them boil till they swell; then put in a quarter of an ounce of mace, a few cloves beat fine, mix it with a little water, and put it into your pot; also a pound of sugar, a little salt, a quart or better of claret, and the juice of two or three lemons or verjuice; thicken it with sagoo instead of bread; so put it in earthen pots, and keep it for use. 146. _to make a_ palpatoon _of_ pigeons. take mushrooms, pallets, oysters and sweet-breads, fry them in butter, put all these in a strong gravy, heat them over the fire, and thicken them up with an egg and a little butter; then take six or eight pigeons, truss them as you would for baking, season them with pepper and salt, and lay on them a crust of forc'd-meat as follows, _viz._ a pound of veal cut in little bits, and a pound and a half of marrow, beat it together in a stone mortar, after it is beat very fine, season it with mace, pepper and salt, put in the yolks of four eggs, and two raw eggs, mix altogether with a few bread crumbs to a paste: make the sides and lid of your pie with it, then put your ragoo into your dish, and lay in your pigeons with butter; an hour and a half will bake it. 147. _to fry_ cucumbers _for mutton sauce_. you must brown some butter in a pan, and cut six middling cucumbers, pare and slice them, but not over thin, drain them from the water, then put them into the pan, when they are fried brown put to them a little pepper and salt, a lump of butter, a spoonful of vinegar, a little shred onion, and a little gravy, not to make it too thin, so shake them well together with a little flour. you may lay them round your mutton, or they are proper for a side-dish. 148. _to force a_ fowl. take a good fowl, pull and draw it, then slit the skin down the back, take the flesh from the bones, and mince it very well, mix it with a little beef-suet, shred a jill of large oysters, chop a shalot, a little grated bread, and some sweet herbs, mix all together, season it with nutmeg, pepper and salt, make it up with yolks of eggs, put it on the bones and draw the skin over it, sew up the back, cut off the legs, and put the bones as you do a fowl for boiling, tie the fowl up in a cloth; an hour will boil it. for sauce take a few oysters, shred them, and put them into a little gravy, with a lump of butter, a little lemon-peel shred and a little juice, thicken it up with a little flour, lie the fowl on the dish, and pour the sauce upon it; you may fry a little of the forc'd-meat to lay round. garnish your dish with lemon; you may set it in the oven if you have convenience, only rub over it the yolk of an egg and a few bread crumbs. 149. _to make_ strawberry _and_ rasberry fool. take a pint of rasberries, squeeze and strain the juice, with a spoonful of orange water, put to the juice six ounces of fine sugar, and boil it over the fire; then take a pint of cream and boil it, mix them all well together, and heat them over the fire, but not to boil, if it do it will curdle; stir it till it be cold, put it into your bason and keep it for use. 150. _to make a_ posset _with_ almonds. blanch and beat three quarters of a pound of almonds, so fine that they will spread betwixt your fingers like butter, put in water as you beat them to keep them for oiling; take a pint of sack, cherry or gooseberry wine, and sweeten it to your taste with double refin'd sugar, make it boiling hot; take the almonds, put to them a little water, and boil the wine and almonds together; take the yolks of four eggs, and beat them very well, put to them three or four spoonfuls of wine, then put it into your pan by degrees, stirring it all the while; when it begins to thicken take it off, and stir it a little, put it into a china dish, and serve it up. 151. _to make_ dutch-beef. take the lean part of a buttock of beef raw, rub it well with brown sugar all over, and let it lie in a pan or tray two or three hours, turning it three or four times, then salt it with common salt, and two ounces of saltpetre; let it lie a fortnight, turning it every day, then roll it very straight, and put it into a cheese press day and night, then take off the cloth and hang it up to dry in the chimney; when you boil it let it be boiled very well, it will cut in shivers like dutch beef. you may do a leg of mutton the same way. 152. _to make_ pullony sausages. take part of a leg of pork or veal, pick it clean from the skin or fat, put to every pound of lean meat a pound of beef-suet, pick'd from the skins, shred the meat and suet separate and very fine, mix them well together, add a large handful of green sage shred very small; season it with pepper and salt, mix it well, press it down hard in an earthen pot, and keep it for use.--when you use them roll them up with as much egg as will make them roll smooth; in rolling them up make them about the length of your fingers, and as thick as two fingers; fry them in butter, which must be boiled before you can put them in, and keep them rolling about in the pan; when they are fried through they are enough. 153. _to make an_ amblet _of_ cockles. take four whites and two yolks of eggs, a pint of cream, a little flour, a nutmeg grated, a little salt, and a jill of cockles, mix all together, and fry it brown. this is proper for a side-dish either for noon or night. 154. _to make a common quaking_ pudding. take five eggs, beat them well with a little salt, put in three spoonfuls of fine flour, take a pint of new milk and beat them well together, then take a cloth, butter and flour it, but do not give it over much room in the cloth; an hour will boil it, give it a turn every now and then at the first putting in, or else the meal will settle to the bottom; have a little plain butter for sauce, and serve it up. 155. _to make a boil'd_ tansey. take an old penny loaf, cut off the out crust, slice it thin, put to it as much hot cream as will wet it, six eggs well beaten, a little shred lemon-peel, grate in a little nutmeg, and a little salt; green it as you did your baked tansey, so tie it up in a cloth and boil it; it will take an hour and a quarter boiling; when you dish it up stick it with candid orange and lay a seville orange cut in quarters round the dish; serve it up with melted butter. 156. _a_ tansey _another way_. take an old penny loaf, cut off the out crust, slice it very thin, and put to it as much hot milk as will wet it; take six eggs, beat them very well, grate in half a nutmeg, a little shred lemon-peel, half a pound of clarified butter, half a pound of sugar, and a little salt; mix them well together. _to green your tansey_, take a handful or two of spinage, a handful of tansey, and a handful or sorrel, clean them and beat them in a marble mortar, or grind it as you would do greensauce, strain it through a linen cloth into a bason, and put into your tansey as much of the juice as will green it, pour over the sauce a little white wine, butter and sugar; lay a rim of paste round your dish and bake it; when you serve it up cut a seville orange in quarters, and lay it round the edge of the dish. 157. _to make_ rice pancakes. take half a pound of rice, wash and pick it clean, cree it in fair water till it be a jelly, when it is cold take a pint of cream and the yolks of four eggs, beat them very well together, and put them into the rice, with grated nutmeg and some salt, then put in half a pound of butter, and as much flour as will make it thick enough to fry, with as little butter as you can. 158. _to make_ fruit fritters. take a penny loaf, cut off the out crust, slice it, put to it as much hot milk as will wet it, beat five or six eggs, put to them a quarter of a pound of currans well cleaned, and a little candid orange shred fine, so mix them well together, drop them with a spoon into a stew-pan in clarified butter; have a little white wine, butter and sugar for your sauce, put it into a china bason, lay your fritters round, grate a little sugar over them, and serve them up. 159. _to make_ white puddings _in skins_. take half a pound of rice, cree it in milk while it be soft, when it is creed put it into a cullinder to drain; take a penny loaf, cut off the out crust, then cut it in thin slices, scald it in a little milk, but do not make it over wet; take six eggs and beat them very well, a pound of currans well cleaned, a pound of beef-suet shred fine, two or three spoonfuls of rose-water, half a pound of powder sugar, a little salt, a quarter of an ounce of mace, a large nutmeg grated, and a small stick of cinnamon; beat them together, mix them very well, and put them into the skins; if you find it be too thick put to it a little cream; you may boil them near half an hour, it will make them keep the better. 160. _to make_ black puddings. take two quarts of whole oatmeal, pick it and half boil it, give it room in your cloth, (you must do it the day before you use it) put it into the blood while it is warm, with a handful of salt, stir it very well, beat eight or nine eggs in about a pint of cream, and a quart of bread-crumbs, a handful or two of maslin meal dress'd through a hair-sieve, if you have it, if not put in wheat flour; to this quantity you may put an ounce of jamaica pepper, and ounce of black pepper, a large nutmeg, and a little more salt, sweet-marjoram and thyme, if they be green shred them fine, if dry rub them to powder, mix them well together, and if it be too thick put to it a little milk; take four pounds of beef-suet, and four pounds of lard, skin and cut it it think pieces, put it into your blood by handfuls, as you fill your puddings; when they are filled and tied prick them with a pin, it will keep them from bursting in the boiling; (you must boil them twice) cover them close and it will make them black. 161. _an_ orange pudding _another way_. take two seville oranges, the largest and cleanest you can get, grate off the outer skin with a clean grater; take eight eggs, (leave out two of the whites) half a pound of loaf sugar, beat it very fine, put it to your eggs, and beat them for an hour, put to them half a pound of clarified butter, and four ounces of almonds blanch'd, and heat them with a little rose-water; put in the juice of the oranges, but mind you don't put in the pippens, and mix together; bake it with a thin paste over the bottom of the dish. it must be baked in a slow oven. 162. _to make_ apple fritters. take four eggs and beat them very well, put to them four spoonfuls of fine flour, a little milk, about a quarter of a pound of sugar, a little nutmeg and salt, so beat them very well together; you must not make it very thin, if you do it will not stick to the apple; take a middling apple and pare it, cut out the core, and cut the rest in round slices about the thickness of a shilling; (you may take out the core after you have cut it with your thimble) have ready a little lard in a stew-pan, or any other deep pan; then take your apple every slice single, and dip it into your bladder, let your lard be very hot, so drop them in; you must keep them turning whilst enough, and mind that they be not over brown; as you take them out lay them on a pewter dish before the fire whilst you have done; have a little white wine, butter and sugar for the sauce; grate over them a little loaf sugar, and serve them up. 163. _to make an_ herb pudding. take a good quantity of spinage and parsley, a little sorrel and mild thyme, put to them a handful of great oatmeal creed, shred them together till they be very small, put to them a pound of currans, well washed and cleaned, four eggs well beaten in a jill of good cream; if you wou'd have it sweet, put in a quarter of a pound of sugar, a little nutmeg, a little salt, and a handful of grated bread; then meal your cloth and tie it close before you put it in to boil; it will take as much boiling as a piece of beef. 164. _to make a_ pudding _for a_ hare. take the liver and chop it small with some thyme, parsley, suet, crumbs of bread mixt, with grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, an egg, a little fat bacon and lemon-peel; you must make the composition very stiff, lest it should dissolve, and you lose your pudding. 165. _to make a_ bread pudding. take three jills of milk, when boiled, take a penny loaf sliced thin, cut off the out crust, put on the boiling milk, let it stand close covered till it be cold, and beat it very well till all the lumps be broke; take five eggs beat very well, grate in a little nutmeg, shred some lemon-peel, and a quarter of a pound of butter or beef-suet, with as much sugar as will sweeten it; and currans as many as you please; let them be well cleaned; so put them into your dish, and bake or boil it. 166. _to make_ clare pancakes. take five or six eggs, and beat them very well with a little salt, put to them two or three spoonfuls of cream, a spoonful of fine flour, mix it with a little cream; take your clare and wash it very clean, wipe it with a cloth, put your eggs into a pan, just to cover your pan bottom, lay the clare in leaf by leaf, whilst you have covered your pan all over; take a spoon, and pour over every leaf till they are all covered; when it is done lay the brown side upwards, and serve it up. 167. _to make a_ liver pudding. take a pound of grated bread, a pound of currans, a pound and a half of marrow and suet together cut small, three quarters of a pound of sugar, half an ounce of cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of mace, a pint of grated liver, and some salt, mix all together; take twelve eggs, (leave out half of the whites) beat them well, put to them a pint of cream, make the eggs and cream warm, then put it to the pudding, stuff and stir it well together, so fill them in skins; put to them a few blanch'd almonds shred fine, and a spoonful or two of rose-water, so keep them for use. 168. _to make_ oatmeal fritters. boil a quart of new milk, steep a pint of fine flour or oatmeal in it ten or twelve hours, then beat four eggs in a little milk, so much as will make like thick blatter, drop them in by spoonfuls into fresh butter, a spoonful of butter in a cake, and grate sugar over them; have sack, butter and sugar for sauce. 169. _to make_ apple dumplings. take half a dozen codlins, or any other good apples, pare and core them, make a little cold butter paste, and roll it up about the thickness of your finger, so lap around every apple, and tie them single in a fine cloth, boil them in a little salt and water, and let the water boil before you put them in; half an hour will boil them; you must have for sauce a little white wine and butter; grate some sugar round the dish, and serve them up. 170. _to make_ herb dumplings. take a penny loaf, cut off the out crust, and the rest in slices, put to it as much hot milk as will just wet it, take the yolks and whites of six eggs, beat them with two spoonfuls of powder sugar, half a nutmeg, and a little salt, so put it to your bread; take half a pound of currans well cleaned, put them to your eggs, then take a handful of the mildest herbs you can get, gather them so equal that the taste of one be not above the other, wash and chop them very small, put as many of them in as will make a deep green, (don't put any parsley among them, nor any other strong herb) so mix them all together, and boil them in a cloth, make them about the bigness of middling apples; about half an hour will boil them; put them into your dish, and have a little candid orange, white wine, butter and sugar for sauce, so serve them up. 171. _to make_ marrow tarts. to a quart of cream put the yolks of twelve eggs, half a pound of sugar, some beaten mace and cinnamon, a little salt and some sack, set it on the fire with half a pound of biskets, as much marrow, a little orange-peel and lemon-peel; stir it on the fire till it becomes thick, and when it is cold put it into a dish with puff-paste, then bake it gently in a slow oven. 172. _to make_ plain fruit dumplings. take as much flour as you would have dumplings in quantity, put it to a spoonful of sugar, a little salt, a little nutmeg, a spoonful of light yeast, and half a pound of currans well washed and cleaned, so knead them the stiffness you do a common dumpling, you must have white wine, sugar and butter for sauce; you may boil them either in a cloth or without; so serve them up. 173. _to make_ oyster loaves. take half a dozen french loaves, rasp them and make a hole at the top, take out all the crumbs and fry them in butter till they be crisp; when your oysters are stewed, put them into your loaves, cover them up before the fire to keep hot whilst you want them; so serve them up. they are proper either for a side-dish or mid-dish. you may make cockle loaves or mushroom-loaves the same way. 174. _to make a_ gooseberry pudding. take a quart of green gooseberries, pick, coddle, bruise and rub them through a hair-sieve to take out the pulp; take six spoonfuls of the pulp, six eggs, three quarters of a pound of sugar, half a pound of clarified butter, a little lemon-peel shred fine, a handful of bread-crumbs or bisket, a spoonful of rose-water or orange-flower water; mix these well together, and bake it with paste round the dish; you may add sweetmeats if you please. 175. _to make an_ eel pie. case and clean the eels, season them with a little nutmeg, pepper and salt, cut them in long pieces; you must make your pie with hot butter paste, let it be oval with a thin crust; lay in your eels length way, putting over them a little fresh butter; so bake them. eel pies are good, and eat very well with currans, but if you put in currans you must not use any black pepper, but a little jamaica pepper. 176. _to make a_ turbot-head pie. take a middling turbot-head, pretty well cut off, wash it clean, take out the gills, season it pretty well with mace, pepper and salt, so put it into a deep dish with half a pound of butter, cover it with a light puff-paste, but lay none in the bottom; when it is baked take out the liquor and the butter that it was baked in, put it into a sauce-pan with a lump of fresh butter and flour to thicken it, with an anchovy and a glass of white wine, so pour it into your pie again over the fish; you may lie round half a dozen yolks of eggs at an equal distance; when you have cut off the lid, lie it in sippets round your disk, and serve it up. 177. _to make a caudle for a sweet_ veal pie. take about a jill of white wine and verjuice mixed, make it very hot, beat the yolk of an egg very well, and then mix them together as you would do mull'd ale; you must sweeten it very well, because there is no sugar in the pie. this caudle will do for any other sort of pie that is sweet. 178. _to make_ sweet-meat tarts. make a little shell-paste, roll it, and line your tins, prick them in the inside, and so bake them; when you serve 'em up put in any sort of sweet-meats, what you please. you may have a different sort every day, do but keep your shells bak'd by you. 179. _to make_ orange tarts. take two or three seville oranges and boil them, shift them in the boiling to take out the bitter, cut them in two, take out the pippens, and cut them in slices; they must be baked in crisp paste; when you fill the petty-pans, lay in a layer of oranges and a layer of sugar, (a pound will sweeten a dozen of small tins, if you do not put in too much orange) bake them in a slow oven, and ice them over. 180. _to make a_ tansey _another way_. take a pint of cream, some biskets without seeds, two or three spoonfuls of fine flour, nine eggs, leaving out two of the whites, some nutmeg, and orange-flower water, a little juice of tansey and spinage, put it into a pan till it be pretty thick, then fry or bake it, if fried take care that you do not let it be over-brown. garnish with orange and sugar, so serve it up. 181. _a good_ paste _for_ tarts. take a pint of flour, and rub a quarter of a pound of butter into it, beat two eggs with a spoonful of double-refin'd sugar, and two or three spoonfuls of cream to make it into paste; work it as little as you can, roll it out thin; butter your tins, dust on some flour, then lay in your paste, and do not fill them too full. 182. _to make_ transparent tarts. take a pound of flour well dried, beat one egg till it be very thin, then melt almost three quarters of a pound of butter without salt, and let it be cold enough to mix with an egg, then put it into the flour and make your paste, roll it very thin, when you are setting them into the oven wet them over with a little fair water, and grate a little sugar; if you bake them rightly they will be very nice. 183. _to make a_ shell paste. take half a pound of fine flour, and a quarter of a pound of butter, the yolks of two eggs and one white, two ounces of sugar finely sifted, mix all these together with a little water, and roll it very thin whilst you can see through it; when you lid your tarts prick them to keep them from blistering; make sure to roll them even, and when you bake them ice them. 184. _to make_ paste _for_ tarts. take the yolks of five or six eggs, just as you would have paste in quantity; to the yolks of eggs put a pound of butter, work the butter with your hands whilst it take up all the eggs, then take some london flour and work it with your butter whilst it comes to a paste, put in about two spoonfuls of loaf sugar beat and sifted, and about half a jill of water; when you have wrought it well together it is fit for use. this is a paste that seldom runs if it be even roll'd; roll it thin but let your lids be thiner than your bottoms; when you have made your tarts, prick them over with a pin to keep it from blistering; when you are going to put them into the oven, wet them over with a feather dipt in fair water, and grate over them a little double-refined loaf sugar, it will ice them; but don't let them be bak'd in a hot oven. 185. _a short_ paste _for_ tarts. take a pound of wheat-flour, and rub it very small, three quarters of a pound of butter, rub it as small as the flour, put to it three spoonfuls of loaf sugar beat and sifted; take the yolks of four eggs, and beat them very well; put to them a spoonful or two of rose-water, and work them into a paste, then roll them thin, and ice them as you did the other if you please, and bake 'em in a slow oven. 186. _to make a_ light paste _for a_ venison pasty, _or other_ pie. take a quarter of a peck of fine flour, or as much as you think you have occasion for, and to every quartern of flour put a pound and a quarter of butter, break the third part of your butter into the flour; then take the whites of three or four eggs, beat them very well to a froth, and put to them as much water as will knead the meal; do not knead it over stiff, so then roll it in the rest of your butter; you must roll it five or six times over at least, and strinkle a little flour over your butter every time you roll it up, lap it up the cross way, and it will be fit for use. 187. _to make a paste for a_ standing pie. take a quartern of flour or more if you have occasion, and to every quartern of flour put a pound of butter, and a little salt, knead it with boiling water, then work it very well, and let it lie whilst it is cold. this paste is good enough for a goose pie, or any other standing-pie. 188. _a light paste for a_ dish pie. take a quartern of flour, and break into it a pound of butter in large pieces, knead it very stiff, handle it as lightly as you can, and roll it once or twice, then it is fit for use. 189. _to make_ cheese cakes. take a gallon of new milk, make of it a tender curd, wring the whey from it, put it into a bason, and break three quarters of a pound of butter into the curd, then with a clean hand work the butter and curd together till all the butter be melted, and rub it in a hair-sieve with the back of spoon till all be through; then take six eggs, beat them with a few spoonfuls of rose-water or sack, put it into your curd with half a pound of fine sugar and a nutmeg grated; mix them all together with a little salt, some currans and almonds; then make up your paste of fine flour, with cold butter and a little sugar; roll your paste very thin, fill your tins with the curd, and set them in an oven, when they are almost enough take them out, then take a quarter of a pound of butter, with a little rose-water, and part of a half pound of sugar, let it stand on the coals till the butter be melted, then pour into each cake some of it, set them in the oven again till they be brown, so keep them for use. 190. _to make_ goofer wafers. take a pound of fine flour and six eggs, beat them very well, put to them about a jill of milk, mix it well with the flour, put in half a pound of clarified butter, half a pound of powder sugar, half of a nutmeg, and a little salt; you may add to it two or three spoonfuls of cream; then take your goofer-irons and put them into the fire to heat, when they are hot rub them over the first time with a little butter in a cloth, put your batter into one side of your goofer-irons, put them into the fire, and keep turning the irons every now and then; (if your irons be too hot they burn soon) make them a day or two before you use them, only set them down before the fire on a pewter dish before you serve them up; have a little white wine and butter for your sauce, grating some sugar over them. 191. _to make common_ curd cheese cakes. take a pennyworth of curds, mix them with a little cream, beat four eggs, put to them six ounces of clarified butter, a quarter of a pound of sugar, half a pound of currans well wash'd, and a little lemon-peel shred, a little nutmeg, a spoonful of rose-water or brandy, whether you please, and a little salt, mix altogether, and bake them in small petty pans. 192. cheese cakes _without_ currans. take five quarts of new milk, run it to a tender curd, then hang it in a cloth to drain, rub into them a pound of butter that is well washed in rose-water, put to it the yolks of seven or eight eggs, and two of the whites; season it with cinnamon, nutmeg and sugar. 193. _to make a_ curd pudding. take three quarts of new milk, put to it a little erning, as much as will break it when it is scumm'd break it down with your hand, and when it is drained grind it with a mustard ball in a bowl, or beat it in a marble-mortar; then take half a pound of butter and six eggs, leaving out three of the whites; beat the eggs well, and put them into the curds and butter, grate in half a nutmeg, a little lemon-peel shred fine, and salt, sweeten it to your taste, beat them all together, and bake them in little petty-pans with fast bottoms; a quarter of an hour will bake them; you must butter the tins very well before you put them in; when you dish them up you must lay them the wrong side upwards on the dish, and stick them with either blanch'd almonds, candid orange, or citron cut in long bits, and grate a little loaf sugar over them. 194. _to make a_ slipcoat cheese. take five quarts of new-milk, a quart of cream, and a quart of water, boil your water, then put your cream to it; when your milk is new-milk warm put in your erning, take your curd into the strainer, break it as little as you can, and let it drain, then put it into your vat, press it by degrees, and lay it in grass. 195. _to make_ cream cheese. take three quarts of new-milk, one quart of cream, and a spoonful of erning, put them together, let it stand till it come to the hardness of a strong jelly, then put it into the mould, shifting it often into dry cloths, lay the weight of three pounds upon it, and about two hours after you may lay six or seven pounds upon it; turn it often into dry cloths till night, then take the weight off, and let it lie in the mould without weight and cloth till morning, and when it is so dry that it doth not wet a cloth, keep it in greens till fit for use; if you please you may put a little salt into it. 196. _to make_ pike _eat like_ sturgeon. take the thick part of a large pike and scale it, set on two quarts of water to boil it in, put in a jill of vinegar, a large handful of salt, and when it boils put in your pike, but first bind it about with coarse inkle; when it is boiled you must not take off the inkle or baising, but let it be on all the time it is in eating; it must be kept in the same pickle it was boiled in, and if you think it be not strong enough you must add a little more salt and vinegar, so when it is cold put it upon your pike, and keep it for use; before you boil the pike take out the bone. you may do scate the same way, and in my opinion it eats more like sturgeon. 197. _to collar_ eels. take the largest eels you can get, skin and split them down the belly, take out the bones, season them with a little mace, nutmeg and salt; begin at the tail and roll them up very tight, so bind them up in a little coarse inkle, boil it in salt and water, a few bay leaves, a little whole pepper, and a little alegar or vinegar; it will take an hour boiling, according as your roll is in bigness; when it is boiled you must tie it and hang it up whilst it be cold, then put it into the liquor that it was boiled in, and keep it for use. if your eels be small you may robe two or three of them together. 198. _to pot_ smelts. take the freshest and largest smelts you can get, wipe them very well with a clean cloth, take out the guts with a skewer, (but you must not take out the milt and roan) season them with a little mace, nutmeg and salt, so lie them in a flat pot; if you have two score you must lay over them five ounces of butter; lie over them a paper, and set them in a slow oven; if it be over hot it will burn them, and make them look black; an hour will bake them; when they are baked you must take them out and lay them on a dish to drain, and when they are drained you must put them in long pots about the length of your smelts; when you lay them in you must put betwixt every layer the same seasoning as you did before, to make them keep; when they are cold cover them over with clarified butter, so keep them for use. 199. _to pickle_ smelts. take the best and largest smelts you can get; gut, wash and wipe them, lie them in a flat pot, cover them with a little white wine vinegar, two or three blades of mace and a little pepper and salt; bake them in a slow oven, and keep them for use. 200. _to stew a_ pike. take a large pike, scale and clean it, season it in the belly with a little mace and salt; skewer it round, put it into a deep stew-pan, with a pint of small gravy and a pint of claret, two or thee blades of mace, set it over a stove with a slow fire, and cover it up close; when it is enough take part of the liquor, put to it two anchovies, a little lemon-peel shred fine, and thicken the sauce with flour and butter; before you lie the pike on the dish turn it with the back upwards, take off the skin, and serve it up. garnish your dish with lemon and pickle. 201. sauce _for a_ pike. take a little of the liquor that comes from the pike when you take it out of the oven, put to it two or three anchovies, a little lemon-peel shred, a spoonful or two of white wine, or a little juice of lemon, which you please, put to it some butter and flour, make your sauce about the thickness of cream, put it into a bason or silver-boat, and set in your dish with your pike, you may lay round your pike any sort of fried fish, or broiled, if you have it; you may have the same sauce for a broiled pike, only add a little good gravy, a few shred capers, a little parsley, and a spoonful or two of oyster and cockle pickle if you have it. 202. _how to roast a_ pike _with a pudding in the belly_. take a large pike, scale and clean it, draw it at the gills.--_to make a pudding for the pike_. take a large handful of bread-crumbs, as much beef-suet shred fine, two eggs, a little pepper and salt, a little grated nutmeg, a little parsley, sweet-marjoram and lemon-peel shred fine; so mix altogether, put it into the belly of your pike, skewer it round and lie it in an earthen dish with a lump of butter over it, a little salt and flour, so set it in the oven; an hour will roast it. 203. _to dress a_ cod's head. take a cod's head, wash and clean it, take out the gills, cut it open, and make it to lie flat; (if you have no conveniency of boiling it you may do it in an oven, and it will be as well or better) put it into a copper-dish or earthen one, lie upon it a littler butter, salt, and flour, and when it is enough take off the skin. sauce _for the_ cod's head. take a little white gravy, about a pint of oysters or cockles, a little shred lemon-peel, two or three spoonfuls of white wine, and about half a pound of butter thicken'd with flour, and put it into your boat or bason. _another_ sauce _for a_ cod's head. take a pint of good gravy, a lobster or crab, which you can get, dress and put it into your gravy with a little butter, juice of lemon, shred lemon-peel, and a few shrimps if you have them; thicken it with a little flour, and put it into your bason, set the oysters on one side of the dish and this on the other; lay round the head boiled whitings, or any fried fish; pour over the head a little melted butter. garnish your dish with horse-radish, slices of lemon and pickles. 204. _to stew_ carp _or_ tench. take your carp or tench and wash them, scale the carp but not the tench, when you have cleaned them wipe them with a cloth, and fry them in a frying pan with a little butter to harden the skin; before you put them into the stew-pan, put to them a little good gravy, the quantity will be according to the largeness of your fish, with a jill of claret, three or four anchovies at least, a little shred lemon-peel, a blade or two of mace, let all stew together, till your carp be enough, over a slow fire; when it is enough take part of the liquor, put to it half a pound of butter, and thicken it with a little flour; so serve them up. garnish your dish with crisp parsley, slices of lemon and pickles. if you have not the convenience of stewing them, you may broil them before a fire, only adding the same sauce. 205. _how to make_ sauce _for a boiled_ salmon _or_ turbot. take a little mild white gravy, two or three anchovies, a spoonful of oyster or cockle pickle, a little shred lemon-peel, half a pound of butter, a little parsley and fennel shred small, and a little juice of lemon, but not too much, for fear it should take off the sweetness. 206. _to make_ sauce _for_ haddock _or_ cod, _either broiled or boiled_. take a little gravy, a few cockles, oysters or mushrooms, put to them a little of the gravy that comes from the fish, either broiled or boiled, it will do very well if you have no other gravy, a little catchup and a lump of butter; if you have neither oysters nor cockles you may put in an anchovy or two, and thicken with flour; you may put in a few shred capers, or a little mango, if you have it. 207. _to stew_ eels. take your eels, case, clean and skewer them round, put them into a stew-pan with a little good gravy, a little claret to redden the gravy, a blade or two of mace, an anchovy, and a little lemon-peel; when they are enough thicken them with a little flour and butter. garnish your dish with parsley. 208. _to pitch-cock_ eels. take your eels, case and clean them, season them with nutmeg, pepper and salt, skewer them round, broil them before the fire, and baste them with a little butter; when they are almost enough strinkle them over with a little shred parsley, and make your sauce of a little gravy, butter, anchovy, and a little oyster pickle if you have it; don't pour the sauce over your eels, put it into a china bason, and set it in the middle of your dish. garnish with crisp parsley, and serve them up. 209. _to boil_ herrings. take your herring, scale and wash them, take out the milt and roan, skewer them round, and tie them with a string or else they will come loose in the boiling and be spoil'd; set on a pretty broad stew-pan, with as much water as will cover them, put to it a little salt, lie in you herrings with the backs downwards boil with them the milt and roans to lie round them; they will boil in half a quarter of an hour over a slow fire; when they are boiled take them up with an egg slice, so turn them over and set them to drain. make your sauce of a little gravy and butter, an anchovy and a little boiled parsley shred; put it into the bason, set it in the middle of the dish, lie the herrings round with their tails towards the bason, and lie the milts and roans between every herring. garnish with crisp parsley and lemon; so serve them up. 210. _to fry_ herrings. scale and wash your herrings clean, strew over them a little flour and salt; let your butter be very hot before you put your herrings into the pan, then shake them to keep them stirring, and fry them over a brisk fire; when they are fried cut off the heads and bruise them, put to them a jill of ale, (but the ale must not be bitter) add a little pepper and salt, a small onion or shalot, if you have them, and boil them altogether; when they are boiled, strain them, and put them into your sauce-pan again, thicken them with a little flour and butter, put it into a bason, and set it in the middle of your dish; fry the milts and roans together, and lay round your herrings. garnish your dish with crisp parsley, and serve it up. 211. _to pickle_ herrings. scale and clean your herrings, take out the milts and roans, and skewer them round, season them with a little pepper and salt, put them in a deep pot, cover them with alegar, put to them a little whole jamaica pepper, and two or three bay leaves; bake them and keep them for use. 212. _to stew_ oysters. take a score or two of oysters, according as you have occasion, put them into a small stew-pan, with a few bread-crumbs, a little water, shred mace and pepper, a lump of butter, and a spoonful of vinegar, (not to make it four) boil them altogether but not over much, if you do it makes them hard. garnish with bread fippets, and serve them up. 213. _to fry_ oysters. take a score or two of the largest oysters you can get, and the yolks of four or five eggs, beat them very well, put to them a little nutmeg, pepper and salt, a spoonful of fine flour, and a little raw parsley shred, so dip in your oysters, and fry them in butter a light brown. they are very proper to lie about either stew'd oysters, or any other fish, or made dishes. 214. oysters _in_ scallop shells. take half a dozen small scallop shells, lay in the bottom of every shell a lump of butter, a few bread crumbs, and then your oysters; laying over them again a few more bread crumbs, a little butter, and a little beat pepper, so set them to crisp, either in the oven or before the fire, and serve them up. they are proper for either a side-dish or middle-dish. 215 _to keep_ herrings _all the year_. take fresh herrings, cut off their heads, open and wash them very clean, season them with salt, black pepper, and jamaica pepper, put them into a pot, cover them with white wine vinegar and water, of each an equal quantity, and set them in a slow oven to bake; tie the pot up close and they will keep a year in the pickle. 216. _to make artificial_ sturgeon _another way_. take out the bones of a turbot or britt, lay it in salt twenty four hours, boil it with good store of salt; make your pickle of white wine vinegar and three quarts of water, boil them, and put in a little vinegar in the boiling; don't boil it over much, if you do it will make it soft; when 'tis enough take it out till it be cold, put the same pickle to it, and keep it for use. 217. _to stew_ mushrooms. take mushrooms, and clean them, the buttons you may wash, but the flaps you must pill both inside and out; when you have cleaned them, pick out the little ones for pickling, and cut the rest in pieces for stewing; wash them and put them into a little water, give them a boil and it will take off the faintness, so drain from them all the water, then put them into a pan with a lump of butter, a little shred mace, pepper and salt to your taste (putting them to a little water) hang them over a slow fire for half an hour, when they are enough thicken them with a little flour; serve them up with sippets. 218. _to make_ almond puffs. take a pound of almonds blanch'd, and beat them with orange-flower water, then take a pound of sugar, and boil them almost to a candy height, put in your almonds and stir them on the fire, keep them stirring till they be stiff, then take them off the fire and stir them till they be cold; beat them a quarter of an hour in a mortar, putting to them a pound of sugar sifted, and a little lemon-peel grated, make it into a paste with the whites of three eggs, and beat it into a froth more or less as you think proper; bake them in an oven almost cold, and keep them for use. 219. _to pot_ mushrooms. take the largest mushrooms, scrape and clean them, put them into your pan with a lump of butter, and a little salt, let then stew over a slow fire whilst they are enough, put to them a little mace and whole pepper, then dry them with a cloth, and put them down into a pot as close as you can, and as you lie them down strinkle in a little salt and mace, when they are cold cover them over with butter; when you use them toss them up with gravy, a few bread-crumbs and butter; do not make your pot over large, but rather put them into two pots; they will keep the better if you take the gravy from them when they are stewed. they are good for fish-sauce, or any other whilst they are fresh. 220. _to fry_ trout, _or any other sort of fish_. take two or three eggs, more or less according as you have fish to fry, take the fish and cut it in thin slices, lie it upon a board, rub the eggs over it with a feather, and strow on a little flour and salt, fry it in fine drippings or butter, let the drippings be very hot before you put in the fish, but do not let it burn, if you do it will make the fish black; when the fish is in the pan, you may do the other side with the egg, and as you fry it lay it to drain before the fire till all be fried, then it is ready for use. 221. _to make_ sauce _for_ salmon _or_ turbot. boil your turbot or salmon, and set it to drain; take the gravy that drains from the salmon or turbot, an anchovy or two, a little lemon-peel shred, a spoonful of catchup, and a little butter, thicken it with flour the thickness of cream, put to it a little shred parsley and fennel; but do not put in your parsley and fennel till you be just going to send it up, for it will take off the green. the gravy of all sorts of fish is a great addition to your sauce, if the fish be sweet. 222. _to dress_ cod's zoons. lie them in water all night, and then boil them, if they be salt shift them once in the boiling, when they are tender cut them in long pieces, dress them up with eggs as you do salt fish, take one or two of them and cut into square pieces, dip them in egg and fry them to lay round your dish. it is proper to lie about any other dish. 223. _to make_ solomon gundy _to eat in lent_ take five or six white herrings, lay them in water all night, boil them as soft as you would do for eating, and shift them in the boiling to take out the saltness; when they are boiled take the fish from the bone, and mind you don't break the bone in pieces, leaving on the head and tail; take the white part of the herrings, a quarter of a pound of anchovies, a large apple, a little onion shred fine, or shalot, and a little lemon-peel, shred them all together, and lie them over the bones on both sides, in the shape of a herring; then take off the peel of a lemon very very thin, and cut it in long bits, just as it will reach over the herrings; you must lie this peel over every herring pretty thick. garnish your dish with a few pickled oysters, capers, and mushrooms, if you have any; so serve them up. 224. soloman gundy _another way_. take the white part of a turkey, or other fowl, if you have neither, take a little white veal and mince it pretty small; take a little hang beef or tongues, scrape them very fine, a few shred capers, and the yolks of four or five eggs shred small; take a delf dish and lie a delf plate in the dish with the wrong side up, so lie on your meat and other ingredients, all single in quarters, one to answer another; set in the middle a large lemon or mango, so lie round your dish anchovies in lumps, picked oysters or cockles, and a few pickled mushrooms, slices of lemon and capers; so serve it up. this is proper for a side-dish either at noon or night. 225. _to make_ lemon cheese cakes. blanch half a pound of almonds, and beat them in a stone mortar very fine, with a little rose-water; put in eight eggs, leaving out five of the whites; take three quarters of a pound of sugar, and three quarters of a pound of melted butter, beat all together, then take three lemon-skins, boiled tender, the rind and all, beat them very well, and mix them with the rest, then put them into your paste. you may make a lemon-pudding the same way, only add the juice of half a lemon: before you set them in the oven, grate over them a little fine loaf sugar. 226. _to make white_ ginger bread. take a little gum-dragon, lay it in rose-water all night, then take a pound of jordan almonds blanch'd with a little of the gum-water, a pound of double-refined sugar beat and sifted, an ounce of cinnamon beat with a little rose-water, work it into a paste and print it, then set it in a stove to dry. 227. _to make red_ ginger bread. take a quart and a jill of red wine, a jill and a half of brandy, seven or eight manshets, according to the size the bread is, grate them, (the crust must be dried, beat and sifted) three pounds and a half of sugar beat and sifted, two ounces of cinnamon, and two ounces of ginger beat and sifted, a pound of almonds blanched and beat with rose-water, put the bread into the liquor by degrees, stirring it all the time, when the bread is all well mix'd take it off the fire; you must put the sugar, spices, and almonds into it, when it is cold print it; keep some of the spice to dust the prints with. 228. _to make a_ great cake. take five pounds of fine flour, (let it be dried very well before the fire) and six pounds of currans well dress'd and rub'd in cloths after they are wash'd, set them in a sieve before the fire; you must weigh your currans after they are cleaned, then take three quarters of an ounce of mace, two large nutmegs beaten and mix'd amongst the flour, and pound of powder sugar, and pound of citron, and a pound of candid orange, (cut your citron and orange in pretty large pieces) and a pound of almonds cut in three or four pieces long way; then take sixteen eggs, leaving out half of the whites, beat your sugar and eggs for half an hour with a little salt; take three jills of cream, and three pounds and a half of butter, melt your butter with part of the cream for fear it should be too hot, put in between a jack and a jill of good brandy, a quart of light yeast, and the rest of the cream, mix all your liquors together about blood-warm, make a hole in the middle of your flour, and put in the liquids, cover it half an hour and let it stand to rise, then put in your currans and mix all together; butter your hoop, tie a paper three fold, and put it at the bottom in your hoop; just when they are ready to set in the oven, put the cake into your hoop at three times; when you have laid a little paste at the bottom, lay in part of your sweet-meats and almonds, then put in a little paste over them again, and the rest of your sweet-meats and almonds, and set it in a quick oven; two hours will bake it. 229. _to make_ iceing _for this_ cake. take two pounds of double-refined sugar, beat it, and sift it through a fine sieve; put to it a spoonful of fine starch, a pennyworth of gum-arabic, beat them all well together; take the whites of four or five eggs, beat them well, and put to them a spoonful of rose-water, or orange-flower water, a spoonful of the juice of lemon, beat them with the whites of your eggs, and put in a little to your sugar till you wet it, then beat them for two hours whilst your cake is baking; if you make it over thin it will run; when you lie it on your cake you must lie it on with a knife; if you would have the iceing very thick, you must add a little more sugar; wipe off the loose currans before you put on the iceing, and put it into the oven to harden the iceing. 230. _to make a_ plumb cake. take five pounds of flour dried and cold, mix to it an ounce of mace, half an ounce of cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of nutmegs, half a quarter of an ounce of lemon-peel grated, and a pound of fine sugar; take fifteen eggs, leaving out seven of the whites, beat your eggs with half a jill of brandy or sack, a little orange-flower water, or rose water; then put to your eggs near a quart of light yeast, set it on the fire with a quart of cream, and three pounds of butter, let your butter melt in the cream, so let it stand till new milk warm, then skim off all the butter and most of the milk, and mix it to your eggs and yeast; make a hole in the middle of your flour, and put in your yeast, strinkle at the tip a little flour, then mix to it a little salt, six pounds of currans well wash'd clean'd, dry'd, pick'd, and plump'd by the fire, a pound of the best raisins stoned, and beat them altogether whilst they leave the bowl; put in a pound of candid orange, and half a pound of citron cut in long pieces; then butter the garth and fill it full; bake it in a quick oven, against it be enough have an iceing ready. 231. _to make a_ carraway cake. take eighteen eggs, leave out half of the whites, and beat them; take two pounds of butter, wash the butter clear from milk and salt, put to it a little rose-water, and wash your butter very well with your hands till it take up all the eggs, then mix them in half a jack of brandy and sack; grate into your eggs a lemon rind; put in by degrees (a spoonful at a time) two pounds of fine flour, a pound and a half of loaf sugar, that is sifted and dry; when you have mixed them very well with your hands, take a thible and beat it very well for half an hour, till it look very white, then mix to it a few seeds, six ounces of carraway comfits, and half a pound of citron and candid orange; then beat it well, butter your garth, and put it in a quick oven. 232. _to make_ cakes _to keep all the year_. have in readiness a pound and four ounces of flour well dried, take a pound of butter unsalted, work it with a pound of white sugar till it cream, three spoonfuls of sack, and the rind of an orange, boil it till it is not bitter, and beat it with sugar, work these together, then clean your hands, and grate a nutmeg into your flour, put in three eggs and two whites, mix them well, then with a paste-pin or thible stir in your flour to the butter, make them up into little cakes, wet the top with sack and strow on fine sugar; bake them on buttered papers, well floured, but not too much; you may add a pound of currans washed and warmed. 233. _to make_ shrewsberry cakes. take two pounds of fine flour, put to it a pound and a quarter of butter (rub them very well) a pound and a quarter of fine sugar sifted, grate in a nutmeg, beat in three whites of eggs and two yolks, with a little rose-water, and so knead your paste with it, let it lay an hour, then make it up into cakes, prick them and lay them on papers, wet them with a feather dipt in rose-water, and grate over them a little fine sugar; bake them in a slow oven, either on tins or paper. 234. _to make a fine_ cake. take five pounds of fine flour dried, and keep it warm; four pounds of loaf sugar pounded, sifted and warmed; five pounds of currans well cleaned and warmed before the fire; a pound and a half of almonds blanch'd beat, dried, slit and kept warm; five pounds of good butter well wash'd and beat from the water; then work it an hour and a half till it comes to a fine cream; put to the butter all the sugar, work it up, and then the flour, put in a pint of brandy, then all the whites and yolks of the eggs, mix all the currans and almonds with the rest. there must be four pounds of eggs in weight in the shells, the yolks and the whites beat and separated, the whites beat to a froth; you must not cease beating till they are beat to a curd, to prevent oiling; to the quantity of a cake put a pound and a half of orange-peel and citron shred, without plumbs, and half a pound of carraway seeds, it will require four hours baking, and the oven must be as hot as for bread, but let it be well slaked when it has remained an hour in the oven, and stop it close; you may ice it if you please. 235. _to make a_ seed cake. take one quartern of fine flour well dried before the fire, when it is cold rub in a pound of butter; take three quarters of a pound of carraway comfits, six spoonfuls of new yeast, six spoonfuls of cream, the yolks of six eggs and two whites, and a little sack; mix all of these together in a very light paste, set it before the fire till it rise, and so bake it in a tin. 236. _to make an ordinary_ plumb cake. take a pound of flour well dried before the fire, a pound of currans, two penny-worth of mace and cloves, two eggs, four spoonfuls of good new yeast, half a pound of butter, half a pint of cream, melt the butter, warm the cream, and mix altogether in a very light paste, butter your tin before you put it in; an hour will bake it. 237. _to make an_ angelica cake. take the stalks of angelica boil and green them very well, put to every pound of pulp a pound of loaf sugar beaten very well, and when you think it is beaten enough, lay them in what fashion you please on glasses, and as they candy turn them. 238. _to make_ king cakes. take a pound of flour, three quarters of a pound of butter, half a pound of sugar and half a pound of currans, well cleaned; rub your butter well into your flour, and put in as many yolks of eggs as will lithe them, then put in your sugar, currans, and some mace, shred in as much as will give them a taste, so make them up in little round cakes, and butter the papers you lie them on. 239. _to make_ breakfast cakes. take a pound of currans well washed, (rub them in a cloth till dry) a pound of flour dried before a fire, take three eggs, leave out one of the whites, four spoonfuls of new yeast, and four spoonfuls of sack or two of brandy, beat the yeast and eggs well together; then take a jill of cream, and something above a quarter of a pound of butter, set them on a fire, and stir them till the butter be melted, (but do not let them boil) grate a large nutmeg into the flour, with currans and five spoonfuls of sugar; mix all together, beat it with your hand till it leave the bowl, then flour the tins you put the paste in, and let them stand a little to rise, then bake them an hour and a quarter. 240. _to make_ maccaroons. take a pound of blanched almonds and beat them, put some rose-water in while beating; (they must not be beaten too small) mix them with the whites of five eggs, a pound of sugar finely beaten and sifted, and a handful of flour, mix all these very well together, lay them on wafers, and bake them in a very temperate oven, (it must not be so hot as for manchet) then they are fit for use. 241. _to make_ whiggs. take two pounds of flour, a pound of butter, a pint of cream, four eggs, (leaving out two of the whites) and two spoonfuls of yeast, set them to rise a little; when they are mixed add half a pound of sugar, and half a pound of carraway comfits, make them up with sugar and bake them in a dripping pan. 242. _to make_ rasberry cream. take rasberries, bruise them, put 'em in a pan on a quick fire whilst the juice be dried up, then take the same weight of sugar as you have rasberries, and set them on a slow fire, let them boil whilst they are pretty stiff; make them into cakes, and dry them near the fire or in the sun. 243. _to make_ queen cakes. take a pound of london flour dry'd well before the fire, nine eggs, a pound of loaf sugar beaten and sifted, put one half to your eggs and the other to your butter; take a pound of butter and melt it without water put it into a stone bowl, when it is almost cold put in your sugar and a spoonful or two of rose water, beat it very quick, for half an hour, till it be as white as cream; beat the eggs and sugar as long and very quick, whilst they be white; when they are well beat mix them all together; then take half a pound of currans cleaned well, and a little shred of mace, so you may fill one part of your tins before you put in your currans; you may put a quarter of a pound of almonds shred (if you please) into them that is without currans; you may ice them if you please, but do not let the iceing be thicker than you may lie on with a little brush. 244. _to make a_ bisket cake. take a pound of london flour dry'd before the fire, a pound of loaf sugar beaten and sifted, beat nine eggs and a spoonful or two of rose water with the sugar for two hours, then put them to your flour and mix them well together; put in an ounce of carraway seeds, then put it into your tin and bake it an hour and a half in a pretty quick oven. 245. _to make_ cracknels. take half a pound of fine flour, half a pound of sugar, two ounces of butter, two eggs, and a few carraway seeds; (you must beat and sift the sugar) then put it to your flour and work it to paste; roll them as thin as you can, and cut them out with queen cake tins, lie them on papers and bake them in a slow oven. they are proper to eat with chocolate. 246. _to make_ portugal cakes. take a pound of flour, a pound of butter, a pound of sugar, a pound of currans well cleaned, and a nutmeg grated; take half of the flour and mix it with sugar and nutmeg, melt the butter and put it into the yolks of eight eggs very well beat, and only four of the whites, and as the froth rises put it into the flour, and do so till all is in; then beat it together, still strowing some of the other half of the flour, and then beat it till all the flour be in, then butter the pans and fill them, but do not bake them too much; you may ice them if you please, or you may strow carraway comfits of all sorts on them when they go into the oven. the currans must be plump'd in warm water, and dried before the fire, then put them into your cakes. 247. _to make_ plumb-cakes _another way_. take two pounds of butter, beat it with a little rose water and orange-flower water till it be like cream, two pounds of flour dried before the fire, a quarter of an ounce of mace, a nutmeg, half a pound of loaf sugar, beat and sifted, fifteen eggs (beat the whites by themselves and yolks with your sugar) a jack of brandy and as much sack, two pounds of currans very well cleaned, and half a pound of almonds blanch'd and cut in two or three pieces length-way, so mix all together, and put it into your hoop of tin; you may put in half a pound of candid orange and citron if you please; about an hour will bake it in a quick oven; if you have a mind to have it iced a pound of sugar will ice it. 248. _to make a_ ginger bread-cake. take two pounds of treacle, two pounds and a quartern of flour, and ounce of beat ginger, three quarters of a pound of sugar, two ounces of coriander seeds, two eggs, a pennyworth of new ale with the yeast on it, a glass of brandy, and two ounces of lemon-peel, mix all these together in a bowl, and set it to rise for half an hour, then put it into a tin to bake, and wet it with a little treacle and water; if you have a quick oven an hour and a half will bake it. 249. _to make_ chocolate cream. take four ounces of chocolate, more or less, according as you would have your dish in bigness, grate it and boil it in a pint of cream, then mill it very well with a chocolate stick; take the yolks of two eggs and beat them very well, leaving out the strain, put to them three or four spoonfuls of cream, mix them all together, set it on the fire, and keep stirring it till it thicken, but do not let it boil; you must sweeten it to your taste, and keep stirring it till it be cold, so put it into your glasses or china dishes, which you please. 250. _to make white_ lemon cream. take a jill of spring water and a pound of fine sugar, set it over a fire till the sugar and water be dissolv'd, then put the juice of four good lemons to your sugar and water, the whites of four eggs well beat, set it on the fire again, and keep it stirring one way till it just simmers and does not boil, strain it thro' a fine cloth, then put it on the fire again, adding to it a spoonful of orange-flower water, stir it till it thickens on a slow fire, then strain into basons or glasses for your use; do not let it boil, if you do it will curdle. 251. _to make_ cream curds. take a gallon of water, put to it a quart of new milk, a little salt, a pint of sweet cream and eight eggs, leaving out half the whites and strains, beat them very well, put to them a pint of sour cream, mix them very well together, and when your pan is just at boiling (but is must not boil) put in the sour cream and your eggs, stir it about and keep it from settling to the bottom; let it stand whilst it begins to rise up, then have a little fair water, and as they rise keep putting it in whilst they be well risen, then take them off the fire, and let them stand a little to sadden; have ready a sieve with a clean cloth over it, and take up the curds with a laddle or egg-slicer, whether you have; you must always make them the night before you use them; this quantity will make a large dish if your cream be good; if you think your curds be too thick, mix tho them two or three spoonfuls of good cream, lie them upon a china dish in lumps, so serve them up. 252. _to make_ apple cream. take half a dozen large apples, (coslings or any other apples that will be soft) and coddle them; when they are cold take out the pulp; then take the whites of four or five eggs, (leaving out the strains) three quarters of a pound of double-refined sugar beat and sifted, a spoonful or two of rose-water and grate in a little lemon-peel, so beat all together for an hour, whilst it be white, then lay it on a china dish, to serve it up. 253. _to fry_ cream _to eat hot_. take a pint of cream and boil it, three spoonfuls of london flour, mix'd with a little milk, put in three eggs, and beat them very well with the flour, a little salt, a spoonful or two of fine powder sugar, mix them very well; then put your cream to them on the fire and boil it; then beat two eggs more very well, and when you take your pan off the fire stir them in, and pour them into a large pewter dish, about half an inch thick; when it is quite cold cut it out in square bits, and fry it in butter, a light brown; as you fry them set them before the fire to keep hot and crisp, so dish them up with a little white wine, butter and sugar for your sauce, in a china cup, set it in the midst, and grate over some loaf sugar. 254. _to make_ rice _or_ almond cream. take two quarts of cream, boil it with what seasoning you please, then take it from the fire and sweeten it, pick out the seasoning and divide it into two parts, take a quarter of a pound of blanch'd almonds well beat with orange-flower water, set that on the fire, and put to it the yolks of four eggs well beat and strained, keep it stirring all the time it is on the fire, when it rises to boil take it off, stir it a little, then put it into your bason, the other half set on the fire, and thicken it with flour of rice; when you take it off put to it the juice of a lemon, orange-flower water or sack, and stir it till it be cold, then serve it up. 255. _to make_ calf's foot jelly. take four calf's feet and dress them, boil them in six quarts of water over a slow fire, whilst all the bones will come out, and half the water be boiled away, strain it into a stone-bowl, then put to them two or three quarts more water, and let it boil away to one: if you want a large quantity of flummery or jelly at one time; take two calf's feet more, it will make your stock the stronger; you must make your stock the day before you use it, and before you put your stock into the pan take off the fat, and put it into your pan to melt, take the whites of eight or ten eggs, just as you have jelly in quantity, (for the more whites you have makes your jelly the finer) beat your whites to a froth, and put to them five or six lemons, according as they are of goodness, a little white wine or rhenish, mix them well together (but let not your stock be too hot when you put them in) and sweeten it to your taste; keep it stirring all the time whilst it boil; take your bag and dip it in hot water, and wring it well out, then put in your jelly, and keep it shifting whilst it comes clear; throw a lemon-peel or two into your bag as the jelly is coming off, and put in some bits of peel into your glasses. you may make hartshorn jelly the same way. 256. _to make_ orange cream. take two seville oranges and peel them very thin, put the peel into a pint of fair water, and let it lie for an hour or two; take four eggs, and beat them very well, put to them the juice of three or four oranges, according as they are in goodness, and sweeten them with double refin'd sugar to your taste, mix the water and sugar together, and strain them thro' a fine cloth into your tankard, and set it over the fire as you did the lemon cream, and put it into your glasses for use. 257. _to make yellow_ lemon cream. take two or three lemons, according as they are in bigness, take off the peel as thin as you can from the white, put it into a pint of clear water, and let it lie three or four hours; take the yolks of three or four eggs, beat them very well, about eight ounces of double refin'd sugar, put it into your water to dissolve, and a spoonful or two of rose-water or orange-flower water, which you can get, mix all together with the juice of two of your lemons, and if your lemons prove not good, put in the juice of three, so strain them through a fine cloth into a silver tankard, and set it over a stove or chafing dish, stirring it all the time, and when it begins to be as thick as cream take it off, but don't let it boil, if you do it will curdle, stir it whilst it be cold and put it into glasses for use. 258. _to make white_ lemon cream _another way_. take a pint of spring water, and the whites of six eggs, beat them very well to a froth, put them to your water, adding to it half a pound of double refin'd sugar, a spoonful of orange-flower water, and the juice of three lemons, so mix all together, and strain them through a fine close into your silver tankard, set it over a slow fire in a chafing dish, and keep stirring it all the time; as you see it thickens take it off, it will soon curdle then be yellow, stir it whilst it be cold, and put it in small jelly glasses for use. 259. _to make_ sagoo custards. take two ounces of sagoo, wash it in a little water, set it on to cree in a pint of milk, and let it cree till it be tender, when it is cold put to it three jills of cream, boil it altogether with a blade or two of mace, or a stick of cinnamon; take six eggs, leave out the strains, beat them very well, mix a little of your cream amongst your eggs, then mix altogether, keep stirring it as you put it in, so set it over a slow fire, and stir it about whilst it be the thickness of a good cream; you must not let it boil; when you take it off the fire put in a tea cupfull of brandy, and sweeten it to your taste, then put it into pots or glasses for use. you may have half the quantity if you please. 260. _to make_ almond custards. boil two quarts of sweet cream with a stick of cinnamon; take eight eggs, leaving out all the whites but two, beat them very well; take six ounces of jordan almonds, blanch and beat them with a little rose-water, so give them a boil in your cream; put in half a pound of powder sugar, and a little of your cream amongst your eggs, mix altogether, and set them over a slow fire, stir it all the time whilst it be as thick as cream, but don't let it boil; when you take it off put in a little brandy to your taste, so put it into your cups for use. you may make rice-custard the same way. 261. _to make a_ sack posset. take a quart of cream, boil it with two or three blades of mace, and grate in a long bisket; take eight eggs, leave out half the whites, beat them very well, and a pint of gooseberry wine, make it hot, so mix it well with your eggs, set it over a slow fire, and stir it about whilst it be as thick as custard; set a dish that is deep over a stove, put in your sack and eggs, when your cream is boiling hot, put it to your sack by degrees, and stir it all the time it stands over your stove, whilst it be thoroughly hot, but don't let it boil; you must make it about half an hour before you want it; set it upon a hot harth, and then it will be as thick as custard; make a little froth of cream, to lay over the posset; when you dish it up sweeten it to your taste; you may make it without bisket if you please, and don't lay on your froth till you serve it up. 262. _to make a_ lemon posset. take a pint of good thick cream, grate into it the outermost skin of two lemons, and squeeze the juice into a jack of white wine, and sweeten it to your taste; take the whites of two eggs without the strains, beat them to a froth, so whisk them altogether in a stone bowl for half an hour, then put them into glasses for use. 263. _to make whipt_ sillabubs. take two porringers of cream and one of white wine, grate in the skin of a lemon, take the whites of three eggs, sweeten it to your taste, then whip it with a whisk, take off the froth as it rises, and put it into your sillabub-glasses or pots, whether you have, then they are fit for use. 264. _to make_ almond butter. take a quart of cream, and half a pound of almonds, beat them with the cream, then strain it, and boil it with twelve yolks of eggs and two whites, till it curdle, hang it up in a cloth till morning and then sweeten it; you may rub it through a sieve with the back of a spoon, or strain it through a coarse cloth. 265. _to make_ black caps. take a dozen of middling pippens and cut them in two, take out the cores and black ends, lay them with the flat side downwards, set them in the oven, and when they are about half roasted take them out, wet them over with a little rose water, and grate over them loaf sugar, pretty thick, set them into the oven again, and let them stand till they are black; when you serve them up, put them either into cream or custard, with the black side upwards, and set them at an equal distance. 266. _to make_ sauce _for tame_ ducks. take the necks and gizzards of your ducks, a scrag of mutton if you have it, and make a little sweet gravy, put to it a few bread-crumbs, a small onion, and a little whole pepper, boil them for half a quarter of an hour, put to them a lump of butter, and if it is not thick enough a little flour, so salt it to your taste. 267. _to make_ sauce _for a_ green-goose. take a little good gravy, a little butter, and a few scalded gooseberries, mix all together, and put it on the disk with your goose. 268. _to make another_ sauce _for a_ green-goose. take the juice of sorrel, a little butter, and a few scalded gooseberries, mix them together, and sweeten it to your taste; you must not let it boil after you put in the sorrel, if you do it will take off the green. you must put this sauce into a bason. 269. _to make_ almond flummery. take a pint of stiff jelly made of calf's feet, put to it a jill or better of good cream, and four ounces of almonds, blanch and beat them fine with a little rose-water, then put them to your cream and jelly, let them boil together for half a quarter of an hour, and sweeten it to your taste; strain it through a fine cloth, and keep it stirring till it be quite cold, put it in cups and let it stand all night, loosen it in warm water and turn it out into your dish; so serve it up, and prick it with blanch'd almonds. 270. _to make_ calf's foot flummery. take two calf's feet, when they are dress'd, put two quarts of water to them, boil them over a slow fire till half or better be consumed; when your stock is cold, if it be too stiff, you may put to it as much cream as jelly, boil them together with a blade or two of mace, sweeten it to your taste with loaf sugar, strain it through a fine cloth, stir it whilst it be cold, and turn it out, but first loosen it in warm water, and put it into your dish as you did the other flummery. 271. _to stew_ spinage _with_ poached eggs. take two or three handfuls of young spinage, pick it from the stalks, wash and drain it very clean, put it into a pan with a lump of butter, and a little salt, keep stirring it all the time whilst it be enough, then take it out and squeeze out the water, chop it and stir in a little more butter, lie it in your dish in quarters, and betwixt every quarter a poached egg, and lie one in the middle; fry some sippets of white bread and prick them in your spinage, to serve them up. this is proper for a side-dish either for noon or night. 272. _to make_ ratifie drops. take half a pound of the best jordan almonds, and four ounces of bitter almonds, blanch and set them before the fire to dry, beat them in a marble mortar with a little white of an egg, then put to the half a pound of powder sugar, and beat them altogether to a pretty stiff paste; you may beat your white of egg very well before you put it in, so take it out, roll it with your hand upon a board with a little sugar, then cut them in pieces, and lie them on sheets of tin or on paper, at an equal distance, that they don't touch one another, and set them in a slow oven to bake. 273. _to fry_ artichoke bottoms. take artichoke bottoms when they are at the full growth, and boil them as you would do for eating, pull off the leaves, and take out the choke, cut off the stalks as close as you can from the bottom; take two or three eggs, beat them very well, so dip your artichokes in them, and strow over them a little pepper and salt; fry them in butter, some whole and some in halves; serve them up with a little butter in a china cup, set it in the middle of your dish, lie your artichokes round, and serve them up. they are proper for a side dish either noon or night. 274. _to fricassy_ artichokes. take artichokes, and order them the same way as you did for frying, have ready in a stew-pan a few morels and truffles, stewed in brown gravy, so put in your artichokes, and give them a shake altogether in your stew-pan, and serve them up hot, with sippets round them. 275. _to dry_ artichoke bottoms. take the largest artichokes you can get, when they are at their full growth, boil them as you would do for eating, pull off the leaves and take out the choke; cut off the stalk as close as you can, lie them on a tin dripping-pan, or an earthen dish, set them in a slow oven, for if your oven be too hot it will brown them; you may dry them before the fire if you have conveniency; when they are dry put them in paper bags, and keep them for use. 276. _to stew_ apples. take a pound of double refin'd sugar, with a pint of water, boil and skim it, and put into it a pound of the largest and clearest pippens, pared and cut in halves; if little, let them be whole; core them and boil them with a continual froth, till they be as tender and clear as you would have them, put in the juice of two lemons, but first take out the apples, a little peel cut like threads, boil down your syrrup as thick as you would have it, then pour it over your apples; when you dish them, stick them with long bits of candid orange, and some with almonds cut in long bits, to serve them up. you must stew them the day before you use them. 277. _to stew_ apples _another way_. take kentish pippens or john apples, pare and slice them into fair water, set them on a clear fire, and when they are boiled to mash, let the liquor run through a hair-sieve; boil as many apples thus as will make the quantity of liquor you would have; to a pint of this liquor you must have a pound of double refin'd loaf sugar in great lumps, wet the lumps of sugar with the pippen liquor, and set it over a gentle fire, let it boil, and skim it well: whilst you are making the jelly, you must have your whole pippens boiling at the same time; (they must be the fairest and best pippens you can get) scope out the cores, and pare them neatly, put them into fair water as you do them; you must likewise make a syrrup ready to put them into, the quantity as you think will boil them in a clear; make the syrrup with double refin'd sugar and water. tie up your whole pippens in a piece of fine cloth or muslin severally, when your sugar and water boils put them in, let them boil very fast, so fast that the syrrup always boils over them; sometimes take them off, and then set them on again, let them boil till they be clear and tender; then take off the muslin they were tied up in, and put them into glasses that will hold but one in a glass; then see if your jelly of apple-johns be boiled to jelly enough, if it be, squeeze in the juice of two lemons, and let it have a boil; then strain it through a jelly bag into the glasses your pippens were in; you must be sure that your pippens be well drained from the syrrup they were boiled in; before you put them into the glasses, you may, if you please, boil little pieces of lemon-peel in water till they be tender, and then boil them in the syrrup your pippens were boiled in; then take them out and lay them upon the pippens before the jelly is put in, and when they are cold paper them up. 278. _to make_ plumb gruel. take half a pound of pearl barley, set it on to cree; put to it three quarts of water; when it has boiled a while, shift it into another fresh water, and put to it three or four blades of mace, a little lemon-peel cut in long pieces, so let it boil whilst the barley be very soft; if it be too thick you may add a little more water; take half a pound of currans, wash them well and plump them, and put to them your barley, half a pound of raisins and stone them; let them boil in the gruel whilst they are plump, when they are enough put to them a little white wine, a little juice of lemon, grate in half a nutmeg, and sweeten it to your taste, so serve them up. 279. _to make_ rice gruel. boil half a pound of rice in two quarts of soft water, as soft as you would have it for rice milk, with some slices of lemon-peel, and a stick of cinnamon; add to it a little white wine and juice of lemon to your taste, put in a little candid orange sliced thin, and sweeten it with fine powder sugar; don't let it boil after you put in your wine and lemon, put it in a china dish, with five or six slices of lemon, so serve it up. 280. _to make_ scotch custard, _to eat hot for supper_. boil a quart of cream with a stick of cinnamon, and a blade of mace; take six eggs, both yolks and whites (leave out the strains) and beat them very well, grate a long bisket into your cream, give it a boil before you put in your eggs, mix a little of your cream amongst your eggs before you put 'em in, so set it over a slow fire, stirring it about whilst it be thick, but don't let it boil; take half a pound of currans, wash them very well, and plump them, then put them to your custard; you must let your custard be as thick as will bear the currans that they don't sink to the bottom; when you are going to dish it up, put in a large glass of sack, stir it very well, and serve it up in a china bason. 281. _to make a dish of_ mull'd milk. boil a quart of new milk with a stick of cinnamon, then put to it a pint of cream, and let them have one boil together, take eight eggs, (leave out half of the whites and all the strains) beat them very well, put to them a jill of milk, mix all together, and set it over a slow fire, stir it whilst it begins to thicken like custard, sweeten it to your taste, and grate in half a nutmeg; then put it into your dish with a toast of white bread. this is proper for a supper. 282. _to make_ leatch. take two ounces of isinglass and break it into bits, put it into hot water, then put half a pint of new milk into the pan with the isinglass, set it on the fire to boil, and put into it three or four sticks of good cinnamon, two blades of mace, a nutmeg quartered, and two or three cloves, boil it till the isinglass be dissolved, run it through a hair-sieve into a large pan, then put to it a quart of cream sweetened to your taste with loaf sugar, and boil them a while together; take a quarter of a pound of blanch'd almonds beaten in a rose-water, and strain out all the juice of them into the cream on the fire, and warm it, then take it off and stir it well together; when it has cooled a little take a broad shallow dish and put it into it through a hair-sieve, when it is cold cut it in long pieces, and lay it across whilst you have a pretty large dish; so serve it up. sometimes a less quantity of isinglass will do, according to the goodness; let it be the whitest and clearest you can get. you must make it the day before you want it for use. 283. _to make_ scotch oysters. take two pounds of the thick part of a leg of veal, cut it in little bits clear from the skins, and put it in a marble mortar, then shred a pound of beef suet and put to it, and beat them well together till they be as fine as paste; put to it a handful of bread-crumbs and two or three eggs, season it with mace, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and work it well together; take one part of your forc'd-meat and wrap it in the kell, about the bigness of a pigeon, the rest make into little flat cakes and fry them; the rolls you may either broil in a dripping-pan, or set them in an oven; three is enough in a dish, set them in the middle of the dish and lay the cakes round; then take some strong gravy, shred in a few capers, and two or three mushrooms or oysters if you have any, so thicken it up with a lump of butter, and serve it up hot. garnish your dish with pickles. 284. _to boil_ brocoli. take brocoli when it is seeded, or at any other time; take off all the low leaves of your stalks and tie them up in bunches as you do asparagus, cut them the same length you peel your stalks; cut them in little pieces, and boil them in salt and water by themselves; you must let your water boil before you put them in; boil the heads in salt and water, and let the water boil before you put in the brocoli; put in a little butter; it takes very little boiling, and if it boil too quick it will take off all the heads; you must drain your brocoli through a sieve as you do asparagus; lie stalks in the middle, and the bunches round it, as you would do asparagus. this is proper for either a side-dish or a middle-dish. 285. _to boil_ savoy sprouts. if your savoys be cabbag'd, dress off the out leaves and cut them in quarters; take off a little of the hard ends, and boil them in a large quantity of water with a little salt; when boiled drain them, lie them round your meat, and pour over them a little butter. any thing will boil greener in a large quantity of water than otherwise. 286. _to boil_ cabbage sprouts. take your sprouts, cut off the leaf and the hard ends, shred and boil them as you do other greens, not forgetting a little butter. 287. _to fry_ parsnips _to look like_ trout. take a middling sort of parsnips, not over thick, boil them as soft as you would do for eating, peel and cut them in two the long way; you must only fry the small ends, not the thick ones; beat three or four eggs, put to them a spoonful of flour, dip in your parsnips, and fry them in butter a light brown have for your sauce a little vinegar and butter; fry some slices to lie round about the dish, and to serve them up. 288. _to make_ tansey _another way_. take an old penny loaf and cut off the crust, slice it thin, put to it as much hot cream as will wet it, then put to it six eggs well beaten, a little shred lemon-peel, a little nutmeg and salt, and sweeten it to your taste; green it as you did your baked tansey; so tie it up in a cloth and boil it; (it will take an hour and a quarter boiling) when you dish it up stick it with a candid orange, and lie a sevile orange cut in quarters round your dish; serve it up with a little plain butter. 289. _to make_ gooseberry cream. take a quart of gooseberries, pick, coddle, and bruise them very well in a marble mortar or wooden bowl, and rub them with the back of a spoon through a hair sieve, till you take out all the pulp from the seeds; take a pint of thick cream, mix it well among your pulp grate in some lemon-peel, and sweeten it to your taste; serve it up either in a china dish or an earthen one. 290. _to fry_ parsnips _another way_. boil your parsnips, cut them in square long pieces about the length of your finger, dip them in egg and a little flour, and fry them a light brown; when they are fried dish them up, and grate over them a little sugar: you must have for the sauce a little white wine, butter, and sugar in a bason, and set in the middle of your dish. 291. _to make_ apricock pudding. take ten apricocks, pare, stone, and cut them in two, put them into a pan with a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, boil them pretty quick whilst they look clear, so let them stand whilst they are cold; then take six eggs, (leave out half of the whites) beat them very well, add to them a pint of cream, mix the cream and eggs well together with a spoonful of rose-water, then put in your apricocks, and beat them very well together, with four ounces of clarified butter, then put it into your dish with a thin paste under it; half an hour will bake it. 292. _to make_ apricock custard. take a pint of cream, boil it with a stick of cinnamon and six eggs, (leave out four of the whites) when your cream is a little cold, mix your eggs and cream together, with a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, set it over a slow fire, stir it all one way whilst it begin to be thick, then take it off and stir it whilst it be a little cold, and pour it into your dish; take six apricocks, as you did for your pudding, rather a little higher; when they are cold lie them upon your custard at an equal distance; if it be at the time when you have no ripe apricocks, you may lie preserv'd apricocks. 293. _to make_ jumballs _another way_. take a pound of meal and dry it, a pound of sugar finely beat, and mix these together; then take the yolks of five or six eggs, half a jill of thick cream, as much as will make it up to a paste, and some coriander seeds, lay them on tins and prick them; bake them in a quick oven; before you set them in the oven wet them with a little rose-water and double refin'd sugar to ice them. 294. _to make_ apricock chips _or_ peaches. take a pound of chips to a pound of sugar, let not your apricocks be too ripe, pare them and cut them into large chips; take three quarters of a pound of fine sugar, strow most of it upon the chips, and let them stand till they be dissolv'd, set them on the fire, and boil them till they are tender and clear, strowing the remainder of the sugar on as they boil, skim them clear, and lay them in glasses or pots single, with some syrrup, cover them with double refin'd sugar, set them in a stove, and when they are crisp on one side turn the other on glasses and parch them, then set them into the stove again; when they are pretty dry, pour them on hair-sieves till they are dry enough to put up. 295. _to make_ sagoo gruel. take four ounces of sagoo and wash it, set it over a slow fire to cree, in two quarts of spring water, let it boil whilst it be thickish and soft, put in a blade or two of mace, and a stick of cinnamon, let it boil in a while, and then put in a little more water; take it off, put to it a pint of claret wine, and a little candid orange; shift them, then put in the juice of a lemon, and sweeten it to your taste; so serve them up. 296. _to make_ spinage toasts. take a handful or two of young spinage and wash it, drain it from the water, put it into a pan with a lump of butter, and a little salt, let it stew whilst it be tender, only turn it in the boiling, then take it up and squeeze out the water, put in another lump of butter and chop it small, put to it a handful of currans plump'd, and a little nutmeg; have three toasts cut from a penny loaf well buttered, then lie on your spinage. this is proper for a side-dish either for noon or night. 297. _to roast a_ beast kidney. take a beast kidney with a little fat on, and stuff it all around, season it with a little pepper and salt, wrap it in a kell, and put it upon the spit with a little water in the dripping-pan; what drops from your kidney thicken with a lump of butter and flour for your sauce. _to fry your_ stuffing. take a handful of sweet herbs, a few breadcrumbs, a little beef-suet shred fine, and two eggs, (leave out the whites) mix altogether with a little nutmeg, pepper and salt; stuff your kidney with one part of the stuffing, and fry the other part in little cakes; so serve it up. 298. _to stew_ cucumbers. take middling cucumbers and cut them in slices, but not too thin, strow over them a little salt to bring out the water, put them into a stew-pan or sauce-pan, with a little gravy, some whole pepper, a lump of butter, and a spoonful or two of vinegar to your taste; let them boil all together; thicken them with flour, and serve them up with sippets. 299. _to make an_ oatmeal pudding. take three or four large spoonfuls of oatmeal done through a hair-sieve, and a pint of milk, put it into a pan and let it boil a little whilst it be thick, add to it half a pound of butter, a spoonful of rose-water, a little lemon-peel shred, a little nutmeg, or beaten cinnamon, and a little salt; take six eggs, (leave out two of the whites) and put to them a quarter of a pound of sugar or better, beat them very well, so mix them all together; put it into your dish with a paste round your dish edge; have a little rose-water, butter and sugar for sauce. 300. _to make a_ calf's head pie _another way_. half boil your calf's head, when it is cold cut it in slices, rather thicker than you would do for hashing, season it with a little mace, nutmeg, pepper and salt, lie part of your meat in the bottom of your pie, a layer of one and a layer of another; then put in half a pound of butter and a little gravy; when your pie comes from the oven, have ready the yolks of six or eight eggs boiled hard, and lie them round your pie; put in a little melted butter, and a spoonful or two of white wine, and give them a shake together before you lie in your eggs; your pie must be a standing pie baked upon a dish, with a puff-paste round the edge of the dish, but leave no paste in the bottom of your pie; when it is baked serve it up without a lid. this is proper for either top or bottom dish. 301. _to make_ elder wine. take twenty pounds of malaga raisins, pick and chop them, then put them into a tub with twenty quarts of water, let the water be boiled and stand till it be cold again before you put in your raisins, let them remain together ten days, stirring it twice a day, then strain the liquor very well from the raisins, through a canvas strainer or hair-sieve; add to it six quarts of elder juice, five pounds of loaf sugar, and a little juice of sloes to make it acid, just as you please; put it into a vessel, and let it stand in a pretty warm place three months, then bottle it; the vessel must not be stopp'd up till it has done working; if your raisins be very good you may leave out the sugar. 302. _to make_ gooseberry wine _of ripe_ gooseberries. pick, clean and beat your gooseberries in a marble mortar or wooden bowl, measure them in quarts up-heap'd, add two quarts of spring water, and let them stand all night or twelve hours, then rub or press out the husks very well, strain them through a wide strainer, and to every gallon put three pounds of sugar, and a jill of brandy, then put all into a sweet vessel, not very full, and keep it very close for four months, then decant it off till it comes clear, pour out the grounds, and wash the vessel clean with a little of the wine; add to every gallon a pound more sugar, let it stand a month in a vessel again, drop the grounds thro' a flannel bag, and put it to the other in the vessel; the tap hole must not be over near the bottom of the cask, for fear of letting out the grounds. the same receipt will serve for curran wine the same way; let them be red currans. 303. _to make_ balm wine. take a peck of balm leaves, put them in a tub or large pot, heat four gallons of water scalding hot, ready to boil, then pour it upon the leaves, so let it stand all night, then strain them thro' a hair-sieve; put to every gallon of water two pounds of fine sugar, and stir it very well; take the whites of four or five eggs, beat them very well, put them into a pan, and whisk it very well before it be over hot, when the skim begins to rise take it off, and keep it skimming all the while it is boiling, let it boil three quarters of an hour, then put it into the tub, when it is cold put a little new yeast upon it, and beat it in every two hours, that it may head the better, so work it for two days, then put it into a sweet rundlet, bung it up close, and when it is fine bottle it. 304. _to make_ raisin wine. take ten gallons of water, and fifty pounds of malaga raisins, pick out the large stalks and boil them in your water, when your water is boiled, put it into a tub; take the raisins and chop them very small, when your water is blood warm, put in your raisins, and rub them very well with your hand; when you put them into the water, let them work for ten days, stirring them twice a day, then strain out the raisins in a hair-sieve, and put them into a clean harden bag, and squeeze it in the press to take out the liquor, so put it into your barrel; don't let it be over full, bung it up close, and let it stand whilst it is fine; when you tap your wine you must not tap it too near the bottom, for fear of the grounds; when it is drawn off, take the grounds out of the barrel, and wash it out with a little of your wine, then put your wine into the barrel again, draw your grounds thro' a flannel bag, and put them into the barrel to the rest; add to it two pounds of loaf sugar, then bung it up, and let it stand a week or ten days; if it be very sweet to your taste, let it stand some time longer, and bottle it. 305. _to make_ birch wine. take your birch water and boil it, clear it with whites of eggs; to every gallon of water take two pounds and a half of fine sugar, boil it three quarters of an hour, and when it is almost cold, put in a little yeast, work it two or three days, then put it into the barrel, and to every five gallons put in a quart of brandy, and half a pound of ston'd raisins; before you put up your wine burn a brimstone match in the barrel. 306. _to make_ white curran wine. take the largest white currans you can get, strip and break them in your hand, whilst you break all the berries; to every quart of pulp take a quart of water, let the water be boiled and cold again, mix them well together, let them stand all night in your tub, then strain them thro' a hair-sieve, and to every gallon put two pounds and a half of six-penny sugar; when your sugar is dissolved, put it into your barrel, dissolve a little isinglass, whisk it with whites of eggs, and put it in; to every four gallons put in a quart of mountain wine, so bung up your barrel; when it is fine draw it off, and take off the grounds, (but don't tap the barrel over low at the bottom) wash out the barrel with a little of your wine, and drop the grounds thro' a bag, then put it to the rest of your wine, and put it all into your barrel again, to every gallon add half a pound more sugar, and let it stand another week or two; if it be too sweet let it stand a little longer, then bottle it, and it will keep two or three years. 307. _to make_ orange ale. take forty seville oranges, pare and cut them in slices, the best coloured seville you can get, put them all with the juice and seeds into half a hogshead of ale; when it is tunned up and working, put in the oranges, and at the same time a pound and a half of raisins of the sun stoned; when it has done working close up the bung, and it will be ready to drink in a month. 308. _to make_ orange brandy. take a quart of brandy, the peels of eight oranges thin pared, keep them in the brandy forty-eight hours in a close pitcher, then take three pints of water, put into it three quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, boil it till half be consumed, and let it stand till cold, then mix it with the brandy. 309. _to make_ orange wine. take six gallons of water and fifteen pounds of powder sugar, the whites of six eggs well beaten, boil them three quarters of an hour, and skim them while any skim will rise; when it is cold enough for working, put to it six ounces of the syrrup of citron or lemons, and six spoonfuls of yeast, beat the syrrup and yeast well together, and put in the peel and juice of fifty oranges, work it two days and a night, then tun it up into a barrel, so bottle it at three or four months old. 310. _to make_ cowslip wine. take ten gallons of water, when it is almost at boiling, add to it twenty one pounds of fine powder sugar, let it boil half an hour, and skim it very clean; when it is boiled put it in a tub, let it stand till you think it cold to set on the yeast; take a poringer of new yeast off the fat, and put to it a few cowslips; when you put on the yeast, put in a few every time it is stirred, till all the cowslips be in, which must be six pecks, and let it work three or four days; add to it six lemons, cut off the peel, and the insides put into your barrel, then add to it a pint of brandy; when you think it has done working, close up your vessel, let it stand a month, and then bottle it; you may let your cowslips lie a week or ten days to dry before you make your wine, for it makes it much finer; you may put in a pint of white wine that is good, instead of the brandy. 311. _to make_ orange wine _another way_. take six gallons of water, and fifteen pounds of sugar, put your sugar into the water on the fire, the whites of six eggs, well beaten, and whisk them into the water, when it is cold skim it very well whilst any skim rises, and let it boil for half an hour; take fifty oranges, pare them very thin, put them into your tub, pour the water boiling hot upon your oranges, and when it is bloodwarm put on the yeast, then put in your juice, let it work two days, and so tun it into your barrel; at six weeks or two months old bottle it; you may put to it in the barrel a quart of brandy. 312. _to make_ birch wine _another way_. to a gallon of birch water put two pounds of loaf or very fine lump sugar, when you put it into the pan whisk the whites of four eggs; (four whites will serve for four gallons) whisk them very well together before it be boiled, when it is cold put on a little yeast, let it work a night and a day in the tub, before you put it into your barrel put in a brimstone match burning; take two pounds of isinglass cut in little bits, put to it a little of your wine, let it stand within the air of the fire all night; takes the whites of two eggs, beat it with your isinglass, put them into your barrel and stir them about with a stick; this quantity will do for four gallons; to four gallons you must have two pounds of raisins shred, put them into your barrel, close it up, but not too close at the first, when it is fine, bottle it. 313. _to make_ apricock wine. take twelve pounds of apricocks when full ripe, stone and pare them, put the paring into three gallons of water, with six pounds of powder sugar, boil them together half an hour, skim them well, and when it is blood-warm put it on the fruit; it must be well bruised, cover it close, and let it stand three days; skim it every day as the skim rises, and put it thro' a hair sieve, adding a pound of loaf sugar; when you put it into the vessel close it up, and when it is fine bottle it. 314. _to make_ orange shrub. take seville oranges when they are full ripe, to three dozen of oranges put half a dozen of large lemons, pare them very thin, the thinner the better, squeeze the lemons and oranges together, strain the juice thro' a hair sieve, to a quart of the juice put a pound and a quarter of loaf sugar; about three dozen of oranges (if they be good) will make a quart of juice, to every quart of juice, put a gallon of brandy, put it into a little barrel with an open bung with all the chippings of your oranges, and bung it up close; when it is fine bottle it. this is a pleasant dram, and ready for punch all the year. 315. _to make_ strong mead. take twelve gallons of water, eight pounds of sugar, two quarts of honey, and a few cloves, when your pan boils take the whites of eight or ten eggs, beat them very well, put them into your water before it be hot, and whisk them very well together; do not let it boil but skim it as it rises till it has done rising, then put it into your tub; when it is about blood warm put to it three spoonfuls of new yeast; take eight or nine lemons, pare them and squeeze out the juice, put them both together into your tub, and let them work two or three days, then put it into your barrel, but it must not be too full; take two or three pennyworth of isinglass, cut as small as you can, beat it in a mortar about a quarter of an hour, it will not make it small; but that it may dissolve sooner, draw out a little of the mead into a quart mug, and let it stand within the air of the fire all night; take the whites of three eggs, beat them very well, mix them with your isinglas, whisk them together, and put them into your barrel, bung it up, and when it is fine bottle it. you may order isinglass this way to put into any sort of made wine. 316. _to make_ mead _another way_. take a quart of honey, three quarts of water, put your honey into the water, when it is dissolved, take the whites of four or five eggs, whisk and beat them very well together and put them into your pan; boil it while the skim rises, and skim it very clean; put it into your tub, when it is warm put in two or three spoonfuls of light yeast, according to the quantity of your mead, and let it work two nights and a day. to every gallon put in a large lemon, pare and strain it, put the juice and peel into your tub, and when it is wrought put it into your barrel; let it work for three or four days, stir twice a day with a thible, so bung it up, and let it stand two or three months, according to the hotness of the weather. you must try your mead two or three times in the above time, and if you find the sweetness going off, you must take it sooner. 317. _to make_ cyder. draw off the cyder when it hath been a fortnight in the barrel, put it into the same barrel again when you have cleaned it from the grounds, and if your apples were sharp, and that you find your cyder hard, put into every gallon of cyder a pound and half of sixpenny or five-penny sugar; to twelve gallons of this take half an ounce of isinglass, and put to it a quart of cyder; when your isinglass is dissolved, put to it three whites of eggs, whisk them altogether, and put them into your barrel; keep it close for two months and then bottle it. 318. _to make_ cowslip wine. take two pecks of peeps, and four gallons of water, put to every gallon of water two pounds and a quarter of sugar, boil the water and sugar together a quarter of an hour, then put it into a tub to cool, put in the skins of four lemons, when it is cold bruise your peeps, and put into your liquor, add to it a jill of yeast, and the juice of four lemons, let them be in the tub a night and a day, then put it into your barrel, and keep it four days stirring, then clay it up close for three weeks and bottle it. put a lump of sugar in every bottle. 319. _to make_ red curran wine. let your currans be the best and ripest you can get, pick and bruise them; to every gallon of juice add five pints of water, put it to your berries in a stand for two nights and a day, then strain your liquor through a hair sieve; to every gallon of liquor put two pounds of sugar, stir it till it be well dissolved, put it into a rundlet, and let it stand four days, then draw it off clean, put in a pound and a half of sugar, stirring it well, wash out the rundlet with some of the liquor, so tun it up close; if you put two or three quarts of rasps bruised among your berries, it makes it taste the better. you may make white curran wine the same way, only leave out the rasps. 320. _to make_ cherry wine. take eight pounds of cherries and stone them, four quarts of water, and two pounds of sugar, skim and boil the water and sugar, then put in the cherries, let them have one boil, put them into an earthen pot till the next day, and set them to drain thro' a sieve, then put your wine into a spigot pot, clay it up close, and look at it every two or three days after; if it does not work, throw into it a handful of fresh cherries, so let it stand six or eight days, then if it be clear, bottle it up. 321. _to make_ cherry wine _another way_. take the ripest and largest kentish cherries you can get, bruise them very well, stones and stalks altogether, put them into a tub, having a tap to it, let them stand fourteen days, then pull out the tap, let the juice run from them and put it into a barrel, let it work three or four days, then stop it up close three or four weeks and bottle it off. the wine will keep many years and be exceeding rich. 322. _to make_ lemon drops. take a pound of loaf sugar, beat and sift it very fine, grate the rind of a lemon and put into your sugar; take the whites of three eggs and wisk them to a froth, squeeze in some lemon to your taste, beat them for half an hour, and drop them on white paper; be sure you let the paper be very dry, and sift a little fine sugar on the paper before you drop them. if you would have them yellow, take a pennyworth of gumbouge, steep it in some rose-water, mix to it some whites of eggs and a little sugar, so drop them, and bake them in a slow oven. 323. _to make_ gooseberry wine _another way_. take twelve quarts of good ripe gooseberries, stamp them, and put to them twelve quarts of water, let them stand three days, stir them twice every day, strain them, and put to your liquor fourteen pounds of sugar; when it is dissolved strain it through a flannel bag, and put it into a barrel, with half an ounce of isinglass; you must cut the isinglass in pieces, and beat it whilst it be soft, put to it a pint of your wine, and let it stand within the air of the fire; take the whites of four eggs and beat them very well to a froth, put in the isinglass, and whisk the wine and it together; put them into the barrel, clay it close, and let it stand whilst fine, then bottle it for use. 324. _to make_ red curran wine _another way_. take five quarts of red currans, full ripe, bruise them, and take from them all the stalks, to every five quarts of fruit put a gallon of water; when you have your quantity, strain them thro' a hair-sieve, and to every gallon of liquor put two pounds and three quarters of sugar; when your sugar is dissolved tun it into your cask, and let it stand three weeks, then draw it off, and put to every gallon a quarter of a pound of sugar; wash your barrel with cold water, tun it up, and let it stand about a week; to every ten gallons put an ounce of isinglass, dissolve it in some of the wine, when it is dissolved put to it a quart of your wine, and beat them with a whisk, then put it into the cask, and stop it up close; when it is fine bottle it. if you would have it taste of rasps, put to every gallon of wine a quart of rasps; if there be any grounds in the bottom of the cask, when you draw off your wine, drop them thro' a flannel bag, and then put it into your cask. 325. _to make_ mulberry wine. gather your mulberries when they are full ripe, beat them in a marble mortar, and to every quart of berries put a quart of water; when you put 'em into the tub rub them very well with your hands, and let them stand all night, then strain 'em thro' a sieve; to every gallon of water put three pounds of sugar, and when the sugar is dissolved put it into your barrel; take two pennyworth of isinglass and clip it in pieces, put to it a little wine, and let it stand all night within the air of the fire; take the whites of two or three eggs, beat them very well, then put them to the isinglass, mix them well together, and put them into your barrel, stirring it about when it is put in; you must not let it be over full, nor bung it close up at first; set it in a cool place and bottle it when fine. 326. _to make_ blackberry wine. take blackberries when they are full ripe, and squeeze them the same way as you did the mulberries. if you add a few mulberries, it will make your wine have a much better taste. 327. _to make_ syrrup of mulberries. take mulberries when they are full ripe, break them very well with your hand, and drop them through a flannel bag; to every pound of juice take a pound of loaf sugar; beat it small, put to it your juice, so boil and skim it very well; you must skim it all the time it is boiling; when the skim has done rising it is enough; when it is cold bottle it and keep it for use. you may make rasberry syrrup the same way. 328. _to make_ rasberry brandy. take a gallon of the best brandy you can get, and gather your rasberries when they are full ripe, and put them whole into your brandy; to every gallon of brandy take three quarts of rasps, let them stand close covered for a month, then clear it from rasps, and put to it a pound of loaf sugar; when your sugar is dissolved and a little settled, boil it and keep it for use. 329. _to make black_ cherry brandy. take a gallon of the best brandy, and eight pounds of black cherries, stone and put 'em into your brandy in an earthen pot; bruise the stones in a mortar, then put them into your brandy, and cover them up close, let them steep for a month or six weeks, so drain it and keep it for use. you may distil the ingredients if you please. 330. _to make_ ratifie brandy. take a quart of the best brandy, and about a jill of apricock kernels, blanch and bruise them in a mortar, with a spoonful or two of brandy, so put them into a large bottle with your brandy; put to it four ounces of loaf sugar, let it stand till you think it has got the taste of the kernels, then pour it out and put in a little more brandy if you please. 331. _to make_ cowslip syrrup. take a quartern of fresh pick'd cowslips, put to 'em a quart of boiling water, let 'em stand all night, and the next morning drain it from the cowslips; to every pint of water put a pound of fine powder sugar, and boil it over a slow fire; skim it all the time in the boiling whilst the skim has done rising; then take it off, and when it is cold put it into a bottle, and keep it for use. 332. _to make_ lemon brandy. take a gallon of brandy, chip twenty-five lemons, (let them steep twenty-four hours) the juice of sixteen lemons, a quarter of a pound of almonds blanched and beat, drop it thro' a jelly bag twice, and when it is fine bottle it; sweeten it to your taste with double refined sugar before you put it into your jelly bag. you must make it with the best brandy you can get. 333. _to make_ cordial water _of_ cowslips. take two quarts of cowslip peeps, a slip of balm, two sprigs of rosemary, a stick of cinnamon, half an orange peel, half a lemon peel, a pint of brandy, and a pint of ale; lay all these to steep twelve hours, then distil them on a cold still. 334. _to make_ milk punch. take two quarts of old milk, a quart of good brandy, the juice of six lemons or oranges, whether you please, and about six ounces of loaf sugar, mix them altogether and drop them thro' a jelly bag; take off the peel of two of the lemons or oranges, and put it into your bag, when it is run off bottle it; 'twill keep as long as you please. 335. _to make_ milk punch _another way_. take three jills of water, a jill of old milk, and a jill of brandy, sweeten it to your taste; you must not put any acid into this for it will make it curdle. this is a cooling punch to drink in a morning. 336. _to make_ punch _another way_. take five pints of boiling water and one quart of brandy, add to it the juice of four lemons or oranges, and about six ounces of loaf sugar; when you have mixed it together strain it thro' a hair sieve or cloth, and put into your bowl the peel of a lemon or orange. 337. _to make_ acid _for_ punch. take gooseberries at their full growth, pick and beat them in a marble mortar, and squeeze them in a harden bag thro' a press, when you have done run it thro' a flannel bag, and then bottle it in small bottles; put a little oil on every bottle, so keep it for use. 338. _to bottle_ gooseberries. gather your gooseberries when they are young, pick and bottle them, put in the cork loose, set them in a pan of water, with a little hay in the bottom, put them into the pan when the water is cold, let it stand on a slow fire, and mind when they are coddled; don't let the pan boil, if you do it will break the bottles: when they are cold fasten the cork, and put on a little rosin, so keep them for use. 339. _to bottle_ damsins. take your damsins before they are full ripe, and gather them when the dew is off, pick of the stalks, and put them into dry bottles; don't fill your bottles over full, and cork them as close as you would do for ale, keep them in a cellar, and cover them over with sand. 340. _to preserve orange chips to put in glasses_. take a seville orange with a clear skin, pare it very thin from the white, then take a pair of scissars and clip it very thin, and boil it in water, shifting it two or three times in the boiling to take out the bitter; then take half a pound of double refined sugar, boil it and skim it, then put in your orange, so let it boil over a slow fire whilst your syrrup be thick, and your orange look clear, then put it into glasses, and cover it with papers dipt in brandy; if you have a quantity of peel you must have the larger quantity of sugar. 341. _to preserve_ oranges _or_ lemons. take seville oranges, the largest and roughest you can get, clear of spots, chip them very fine, and put them into water for two days, shifting them twice or three times a day, then boil them whilst they are soft: take and cut them into quarters, and take out all the pippens with a penknife, so weigh them, and to every pound of orange, take a pound and half of loaf sugar; put your sugar into a pan, and to every pound of sugar a pint of water, set it over the fire to melt, and when it boils skim it very well, then put in your oranges; if you would have any of them whole, make a little hole at the top, and take out the meat with a tea spoon, set your oranges over a slow fire to boil, and keep them skimming all the while; keep your oranges as much as you can with the skin downwards; you may cover them with a delf-plate, to bear them down in the boiling; let them boil for three quarters of an hour, then put them into a pot or bason, and let them stand two days covered, then boil them again whilst they look clear, and the syrrup be thick, so put them into a pot, and lie close over them a paper dip'd in brandy, and tie a double paper at the top, set them in a cool place, and keep them for use. if you would have your oranges that are whole to look pale and clear, to put in glasses, you must make a syrrup of pippen jelly; then take ten or a dozen pippens, as they are of bigness, pare and slice them, and boil them in as much water as will cover them till they be thoroughly tender, so strain your water from the pippens through a hair sieve, then strain it through a flannel bag; and to every pint of jelly take a pound of double refined sugar, set it over a fire to boil, and skim it, let it boil whilst it be thick, then put it into a pot and cover it, but they will keep best if they be put every one in different pots. 342. _to make_ jelly _of_ currans. take a quartern of the largest and best currans you can get, strip them from the stalks, and put them in a pot, stop them close up, and boil them in a pot of water over the fire, till they be thoroughly coddled and begin to look pale, then put them in a clear hair sieve to drain, and run the liquor thro' a flannel bag, to every pint of your liquor put in a pound of your double refin'd sugar; you must beat the sugar fine, and put it in by degrees, set it over the fire, and boil it whilst any skim will rise, then put it into glasses for ale; the next day clip a paper round, and dip it in brandy to lie on your jelly; if you would have your jelly a light red, put in half of white currans, and in my opinion it looks much better. 343. _to preserve_ apricocks. take apricocks before they be full ripe, stone and pare 'em; then weigh 'em, and to every pound of apricocks take a pound of double refined sugar, beat it very small, lie one part of your sugar under the apricocks, and the other part at the top, let them stand all night, the next day put them in a stew-pan or brass pan; don't do over many at once in your pan, for fear of breaking, let them boil over a slow fire, skim them very well, and turn them two or three times in the boiling; you must but about half do 'em at the first, and let them stand whilst they be cool, then let them boil whilst your apricocks look clear, and the syrrup thick, put them into your pots or glasses, when they are cold cover them with a paper dipt in brandy, then tie another paper close over your pot to keep out the air. 344. _to make_ marmalade _of_ apricocks. take what quantity of apricocks you shall think proper, stone them and put them immediately into a skellet of boiling water, keep them under water on the fire till they be soft, then take them out of the water and wipe them with a cloth, weigh your sugar with your apricocks, weight for weight, then dissolve your sugar in water, and boil it to a candy height, then put in your apricocks, being a little bruised, let them boil but a quarter of a hour, then glass them up. 345. _to know when your_ sugar _is at_ candy height. take some sugar and clarify it till it comes to a candy-height, and keep it still boiling 'till it becomes thick, then stir it with a stick from you, and when it is at candy-height it will fly from your stick like flakes of snow, or feathers flying in the air, and till it comes to that height it will not fly, then you may use it as you please. 346. _to make_ marmalade _of_ quinces _white_. take your quinces and coddle them as you do apples, when they are soft pare them and cut them in pieces, as if you would cut them for apple pies, then put your cores, parings, and the waste of your quinces in some water, and boil them fast for fear of turning red until it be a strong jelly; when you see the jelly pretty strong strain it, and be sure you boil them uncovered; add as much sugar as the weight of your quinces into your jelly, till it be boiled to a height, then put in your coddled quinces, and boil them uncovered till they be enough, and set them near the fire to harden. 347. _to make_ quiddeny _of_ red curranberries. put your berries into a pot, with a spoonful or two of water, cover it close, and boil 'em in some water, when you think they are enough strain them, and put to every pint of juice a pound of loaf sugar, boil it up jelly height, and put them into glasses for use. 348. _to preserve_ gooseberries. to a pound of ston'd gooseberries put a pound and a quarter of fine sugar, wet the sugar with the gooseberry jelly; take a quart of gooseberries, and two or three spoonfuls of water, boil them very quick, let your sugar be melted, and then put in your gooseberries; boil them till clear, which will be very quickly. 349. _to make little_ almond cakes. take a pound of sugar and eight eggs, beat them well an hour, then put them into a pound of flour, beat them together, blanch a quarter of a pound of almonds, and beat them with rose-water to keep 'em from oiling, mix all together, butter your tins, and bake them half an hour. half an hour is rather too long for them to stand in the oven. 350. _to preserve_ red gooseberries. take a pound of sixpenny sugar, and a little juice of currans, put to it a pound and a half of gooseberries, and let them boil quick a quarter of an hour; but if they be for jam they must boil better than half an hour. they are very proper for tarts, or to eat as sweet-meats. 351. _to bottle_ berries _another way_. gather your berries when they are full grown, pick and bottle them, tie a paper over them, prick it with a pin, and set it in the oven; after you have drawn, and when they are coddled, take them out and when they are cold cork them up; rosin the cork over, and keep them for use. 352. _to keep_ barberries _for_ tarts _all the year_. take barberries when they are full ripe, and pick 'em from the stalk, put them into dry bottles, cork 'em up very close and keep 'em for use. you may do cranberries the same way. 353. _to preserve_ barberries _for_ tarts. take barberries when full ripe, strip them, take their weight in sugar, and as much water as will wet your sugar, give it a boil and skim it; then put in your berries, let them boil whilst they look clear and your syrrup thick, so put them into a pot, and when they are cold cover them up with a paper dip'd in brandy. 354. _to preserve_ damsins. take damsins before they are full ripe, and pick them, take their weight in sugar, and as much water as will wet your sugar, give it a boil and skim it, then put in your damsins, let them have one scald, and set them by whilst cold, then scald them again, and continue scalding them twice a day whilst your syrrup looks thick, and the damsins clear; you must never let them boil; do 'em in a brass pan, and do not take them out in the doing; when they are enough put them into a pot, and cover them up with a paper dip'd in brandy. 355. _how to keep_ damsins _for_ tarts. take damsins before they are full ripe, to every quart of damsins put a pound of powder sugar, put them into a pretty broad pot, a layer of sugar and a layer of damsins, tie them close up, set them in a slow oven, and let them have a heat every day whilst the syrrup be thick, and the damsins enough; render a little sheep suet and pour over them, to keep them for use. 356. _to keep_ damsins _another way_. take damsins before they be quite ripe, pick off the stalks, and put them into dry bottles; cork them as you would do ale, and keep them in a cool place for use. 357. _to make_ mango _of_ codlins. take codlins when they are at their full growth, and of the greenest sort, take a little out of the end with the stalk, and then take out the core; lie them in a strong salt and water, let them lie ten days or more, and fill them with the same ingredients as you do other mango, only scald them oftner. 358. _to pickle_ curranberries. take currans either red or white before they are thoroughly ripe; you must not take them from the stalk, make a pickle of salt and water and a little vinegar, so keep them for use. they are proper for garnishing. 359. _to make_ barberries _instead of preserving_. take barberries and lie them in a pot, a layer of barberries and a layer of sugar, pick the seeds out before for garnishing sweet meats, if for sauces put some vinegar to them. 360. _to keep_ asparagus _or_ green pease _a year_. take green pease, green them as you do cucumbers, and scald them as you do other pickles made of salt and water; let it be always new pickle, and when you would use them boil them in fresh water. 361. _to make white paste of_ pippens. take some pippens, pare and cut them in halves, and take out the cores, then boil 'em very tender in fair water, and strain them thro' a sieve, then clarify two pounds of sugar with two whites of eggs, and boil it to a candy height, put two pounds and a half of the pulp of your pippens into it, let it stand over a slow fire drying, keeping it stirring till it comes clear from the bottom of your pan, them lie them upon plates or boards to dry. 362. _to make green paste of_ pippens. take green pippens, put them into a pot and cover them, let them stand infusing over a slow fire five or six hours, to draw the redness or sappiness from them and then strain them thro' a hair sieve; take two pounds of sugar, boil it to a candy height, put to it two pounds of the pulp of your pippens, keep it stirring over the fire till it comes clean from the bottom of your pan, then lay it on plates or boards, and set it in an oven or stove to dry. 363. _to make red paste of_ pippens. take two pounds of sugar, clarify it, then take rosset and temper it very well with fair water, put it into your syrrup, let it boil till your syrrup is pretty red colour'd with it, then drain your syrrup thro' a fine cloth, and boil it till it be at candy-height, then put to it two pounds and a half of the pulp of pippens, keeping it stirring over the fire till it comes clean from the bottom of the pan, then lie it on plates or boards, so dry them. 364. _to preserve_ fruit _green_. take your fruit when they are green, and some fair water, set it on the fire, and when it is hot put in the apples, cover them close, but they must not boil, so let them stand till thye be soft, and there will be a thin skin on them, peel it off, and set them to cool, then put them in again, let them boil till they be very green, and keep them whole as you can; when you think them ready to take up, make your syrrup for them; take their weight in sugar, and when your syrrup is ready put the apples into it, and boil them very well in it; they will keep all the year near some fire. you may do green plumbs or other fruit. 365. _to make_ orange marmalade. take three or four seville oranges, grate them, take out the meat, and boil the rinds whilst they are tender; shift them three or four times in the boiling to take out the bitter, and beat them very fine in a marble mortar; to the weight of your pulp take a pound of loaf sugar, and to a pound of sugar you may add a pint of water, boil and skim it before you put in your oranges, let it boil half an hour very quick, then put in your meat, and to a pint take a pound and a half of sugar, let it boil quick half an hour, stir it all the time, and when it is boiled to a jelly, put it into pots or glasses; cover it with a paper dipp'd in brandy. 366. _to make_ quinces white _another way_. coddle your quinces, cut them in small pieces, and to a pound of quinces take three quarters of a pound of sugar, boil it to a candy height, having ready a quarter of a pint of quince liquor boil'd and skim'd, put the quinces and liquor to your sugar, boil them till it looks clear, which will be very quickly, then close your quince, and when cold cover it with jelly of pippens to keep the colour. 367. _to make_ gooseberry vinegar. to every gallon of water take six pounds of ripe gooseberries, bruise them, and pour the water boiling hot upon your berries, cover it close, and set it in a warm place to foment, till all the berries come to the top, then draw it off, and to every gallon of liquor put a pound and a half of sugar, then tun it into a cask, set it in a warm place, and in six months it will be fit for use. 368. _to make_ gooseberry wine _another way_. take three pounds of ripe gooseberries to a quart of water, and a pound of sugar, stamp your berries and throw them into your water as you stamp them, it will make them strain the better; when it is strained put in your sugar, beat it well with a dish for half an hour, then strain it thro' a finer strainer than before into your vessel, leaving it some room to work, and when it is clear bottle it; your berries must be clean pick'd before your use them, and let them be at their full growth when you use them, rather changing colour. 369. _to make_ jam of cherries. take ten pounds of cherries, stone and boil them till the juice be wasted, then add to it three pounds of sugar, and give it three or four good boils, then put it into your pots. 370. _to preserve_ cherries. to a pound of cherries take a pound of sugar finely sifted, with which strow the bottom of your pan, having stoned the cherries, lay a layer of cherries and a layer of sugar, strowing the sugar very well over all, boil them over a quick fire a good while, keeping them clean skim'd till they look clear, and the syrrup is thick and both of one colour; when you think them half done, take them off the fire for an hour, after which set them on again, and to every pound of fruit put in a quarter of a pint of the juice of cherries and red currans, so boil them till enough, and the syrrup is jellied, then put them in a pot, and keep them close from the air. 371. _to preserve_ cherries _for drying_. take two pounds of cherries and stone them, put to them a pound of sugar, and as much water as will wet the sugar, then set them on the fire, let them boil till they look clear, then take them off the fire, and let them stand a while in the syrrup, and then take them up and lay them on papers to dry. 372. _to preserve_ fruit _green all the year_. gather your fruit when they are three parts ripe, on a very dry day, when the sun shines on them, then take earthen pots and put them in, cover the pots with cork, or bung them that no air can get into them, dig a place in the earth a yard deep, set the pots therein and cover them with the earth very close, and keep them for use. when you take any out, cover them up again, as at the first. 373. _how to keep_ kidney beans _all winter_. take kidney beans when they are young, leave on both the ends, lay a layer of salt at the bottom of your pot, and then a layer of beans, and so on till your pot be full, cover them close at the top that they get no air, and set them in a cool place; before you boil them lay them in water all night, let your water boil when you put them in, (without salt) and put into it a lump of butter about the bigness of a walnut. 374. _to candy_ angelica. take angelica when it is young and tender take off all the leaves from the stalks, boil it in the pan with some of the leaves under, and some at the top, till it be so tender that you can peel off all the skin, then put it into some water again, cover it over with some of the leaves, let it simmer over a slow fire till it be green, when it is green drain the water from it, and then weigh it; to a pound of angelica take a pound of loaf sugar, put a pint of water to every pound of sugar, boil and skim it, and then put in your angelica; it will take a great deal of boiling in the sugar, the longer you boil it and the greener it will be, boil it whilst your sugar be candy height by the side of your pan; if you would have it nice and white, you must have a pound of sugar boiled candy height in a copper-dish or stew pan, set it over a chafing dish, and put it into your angelica, let it have a boil, and it will candy as you take it out. 375. _to dry_ pears. take half a peck of good baking pears, (or as many as you please) pare and put them in a pot, and to a peck of pears put in two pounds of sugar; you must put in no water but lie the parings on the top of your pears, tie them up close, and set them in a brown bread oven; when they are baked lay them in a dripping pan, and flat them a little in your pan; set them in a slow oven, and turn them every day whilst they be through y dry; so keep them for use. you may dry pippens the same way, only as your turn them grate over them a little sugar. 376. _to preserve_ currans _in bunches_. boil your sugar to the fourth degree of boiling, tie your currans up in bunches, then place them in order in the sugar, and give them several covered boilings, skim them quick, and let them not have above two or three seethings, then skim them again, and set them into the stove in the preserving pan, the next day drain them, and dress them in bunches, strow them with sugar, and dry them in a stove or in the sun. 377. _to dry_ apricocks. to a pound of apricocks put three quarter of a pound of sugar, pare and stone them, to a layer of fruit lie a layer of sugar, let them stand till the next day, then boil them again till they be clear, when cold take them out of the syrrup, and lay them upon glasses or china, and sift them over with double refined sugar, so set them on a stove to dry, next day if they be dry enough turn them and sift the other side with sugar; let the stones be broke and the kernels blanch'd, and give them a boil in the syrrup, then put them into the apricocks; you must not do too many at a time, for fear of breaking them in the syrrup; do a great many, and the more you do in it, the better they will taste. 378. _to make_ jumbalis _another way_. take a pound of meal dry, a pound of sugar finely beat, mix them together; then take the yolks of five or six eggs, as much thick cream as will make it up to a paste, and some corriander seeds; roll them and lay them on tins, prick and bake them in a quick oven; before you set them in the oven wet them with a little rose-water and double refin'd sugar, and it will ice them. 379. _to preserve_ oranges _whole_. take what quantity of oranges you have a mind to preserve, chip off the rind, the thiner and better, put them into water twenty-four hours, in that time shift them in the water (to take off the bitter) three times; you must shift them with boiling water, cold water makes them hard; put double the weight of sugar for oranges, dissolve your sugar in water, skim it, and clarify it with the white of an egg; before you put in your oranges, boil them in syrrup three or four times, three or four days betwixt each time; you must take out the inmeat of the oranges very clean, for fear of mudding the syrup. 380. _to make_ jam _of_ damsins. take damsins when they are ripe, and to two pounds of damsins take a pound of sugar, put your sugar into a pan with a jill of water, when you have boiled it put in your damsins, let them boil pretty quick, skim them all the time they are boiling, when your syrrup looks thick they are enough put them into your pots, and when they are cold cover them with a paper dip'd in brandy, tie them up close, and keep them for use. 381. _to make clear_ cakes _of_ gooseberries. take a pint of jelly, a pound and a quarter of sugar, make your jelly with three or four spoonfuls of water, and put your sugar and jelly together, set it over the fire to heat, but don't let it boil, then put it into the cake pots, and set it in a slow oven till iced over. 382. _to make_ bullies cheese. take half a peck or a quartern of bullies, whether you please, pick off the stalks, put them in a pot, and stop them up very close, set them in a pot of water to boil for two hours, and be sure your pot be full of water, and boil them whilst they be enough, then put them in a hair-sieve to drain the liquor from the bullies; and to every quart of liquor put a pound and a quarter of sugar, boil it over a slow fire, keeping it stirring all the time: you may know when it is boiled high enough by the parting from the pan, and cover it with papers dip'd in brandy, so tie it up close, and keep it for use. 383. _to make_ jam _of_ bullies. take the bullies that remained in the sieve, to every quart of it take a pound of sugar, and put it to your jam, boil it over a slow fire, put it in pots, and keep it for use. 384. _to make_ syrrup _of_ gilliflowers. take five pints of clipt gilliflowers, two pints of boiling water and put to them, then put them in an earthen pot to infuse a night and a day, take a strainer and strain them out; to a quart of your liquor put a pound and half of loaf sugar, boil it over a slow fire, and skim it whilst any skim rises; so when it is cold bottle it for use. 385. _to pickle_ gilliflowers. take clove gilliflowers, when they are at full growth, clip them and put them into a pot, put them pretty sad down, and put to them some white wine vinegar, as much as will cover them; sweeten them with fine powder sugar, or common loaf; when you put in your sugar stir them up that your sugar may go down to the bottom; they must be very sweet; let them stand two or three days, and then put in a little more vinegar; so tie them up for use. 386. _to pickle_ cucumbers _sliced_. pare thirty large cucumbers, slice them into a pewter dish, take six onions, slice and strow on them some salt, so cover them and let them stand to drain twenty four hours; make your pickle of white wine vinegar, nutmeg, pepper, cloves and mace, boil the spices in the pickle, drain the liquor clean from the cucumbers, put them into a deep pot, pour the liquor upon them boiling hot, and cover them very close; when they are cold drain the liquor from them, give it another boil, and when it is cold pour it on them again; so keep them for use. 387. _to make_ cupid hedge-hog's. take a quarter of a pound of jordan almonds, and half a pound of loaf sugar, put it into a pan with as much water as will just wet it, let it boil whilst it be so thick as will stick to your almonds, then put in your almonds and let them boil in it; have ready a quarter of a pound of small coloured comfits; take your almonds out of the syrrup one by one, and turn them round whilst they covered over, so lie them on a pewter dish as you do them, and set them before the fire, whilst you have done them all. they are pretty to put in glasses, or to set in a desert. 388. _to make_ almond hedge-hogs. take half a pound of the best almonds, and blanch them, beat them with two or three spoonfuls of rose-water in a marble-mortar very small, then take six eggs, (leave out two of the whites) beat your eggs very well, take half a pound of loaf sugar beaten, and four ounces of clarified butter, mix them all well together, put them into a pan, set them over the fire, and keep it stirring whilst it be stiff, then put it into a china-dish, and when it is cold put it up into the shape of an hedge hog, put currans for eyes, and a bit of candid orange for tongue; you may leave out part of the almonds unbeaten; take them and split them in two, then cut them in long bits to stick into your hedge hog all over, then rake two pints of cream custard to pour over your hedge hog, according to the bigness of your dish; lie round your dish edge slices of candid or preserved orange, which you have, so serve it up. 389. _to pot_ salmon _to keep half a year_. take a side of fresh salmon, take out the bone, cut off the head and scald it; you must not wash it but wipe it with a dry cloth; cut it in three pieces, season it with mace, pepper, salt and nutmeg, put it into a flat pot with the skin side downward, lie over it a pound of butter, tie a paper over it, and send it to the oven, about an hour and a half will bake it; if you have more salmon in your pot than three pieces it will take more baking, and you must put in more butter; when it is baked take it out of your pot, and lie it on a dish plate to drain, and take off the skin, so season it over again, for if it be not well seasoned it will not keep; put it into your pot piece by piece; it will keep best in little pots, when you put it into your pots, press it well down with the back of your hand, and when it is cold cover it with clarified butter, and set it in a cool place; so keep it for use. 390. _to make a_ coddlin pie. take coddlins before they are over old, hang them over a slow fire to coddle, when they are soft peel off the skin, so put them into the water again, then cover 'em up with vine leaves, and let them hang over the fire whilst they be green; be sure you don't let them boil; lie them whole in the dish, and bake them in puff-paste, but leave no paste in the bottom of the dish; put to 'em a little shred lemon-peel, a spoonful of verjuice or juice of lemon, and as much sugar as you think proper, according to the largeness of your pie. 391. _to make a_ colliflower pudding. boil the flowers in milk, take the tops and lay then in a dish, then take three jills of cream, the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of two, season it with nutmeg, cinnamon, mace, sugar, sack or orange-flower water, beat all well together, then pour it over the colliflower, put it into the oven, bake it as you would a custard, and grate sugar over it when it comes from the oven. take sugar, sack and butter for sauce. 392. _to make stock for_ hartshorn jelly. take five or six ounces of hartshorn, put it into a gallon of water, hang it over a slow fire, cover it close, and let it boil three or four hours, so strain it; make it the day before you use it, and then you may have it ready for your jellies. 393. _to make_ syrrup of violets. take violets and pick them; to every pound of violets put a pint of water, when the water is just ready to boil put it to your violets, and stir them well together, let them infuse twenty four hours and strain them; to every pound of syrrup, take almost two pounds of sugar, beat the sugar very well and put it into your syrrup, stir it that the sugar may dissolve, let it stand a day or two, stirring it two or three times, then set it on the fire, let be but warm and it will be thick enough. you may make your syrrup either of violets or gilliflowers, only take the weight of sugar, let it stand on the fire till it be very hot, and the syrrup of violets must be only warm. 394. _to pickle_ cockles. take cockles at a full moon and wash 'em, then put them in a pan, and cover them with a wet cloth, when they are enough put them into a stone bowl, take them out of the shells and wash them very well in their own pickle; let the pickle settle every time you wash them then clear it off; when you have cleaned 'em, put the pickle into a pan, with a spoonful or two of white wine and a little white wine vinegar, to you taste, put in a little jamaica and whole pepper, boil it very well in the pickle, then put in you cockles, let 'em have a boil and skim 'em, when they are cold put them in a bottle with a little oil over them, set 'em in a cool place and keep 'em for use. 395. _to preserve quinces whole or in quarters_. take the largest quinces when they are at full growth, pare them and throw them into water, when you have pared them cut them into quarters, and take out the cores; if you would have any whole you must take out the cores with a scope; save all the cores and parings, and put them in a pot or pan to coddle your quinces in, with as much water as will cover them, so put in your quinces in the middle of your paring into the pan, (be sure you cover them close up at the top) so let them hang over a slow fire whilst they be thoroughly tender, then take them out and weigh them; to every pound of quince take a pound of loaf sugar, and to every pound of sugar take a pint of the same water you coddled your quinces in, set your water and sugar over the fire, boil it and skim it, then put in your quinces, and cover it close up, set it over a slow fire, and let it boil whilst your quinces be red and the syrrup thick, then put them in pots for use, dipping a paper in brandy to lie over them. 396. _to pickle_ shrimps. take the largest shrimps you can get, pick them out of the shells, boil them in a jill of water, or as much water as will cover them according as you have a quantity of shrimps, strain them thro' a hair-sieve, then put to the liquor a little spice, mace, cloves, whole pepper, white wine, white wine vinegar, and a little salt to your taste; boil them very well together, when it is cold put in your shrimps, they are fit for use. 397. _to pickle_ muscles. wash your muscles, put them into a pan as you do your cockles, pick them out of the shells, and wash them in the liquor; be sure you take off the beards, so boil them in the liquor with spices, as you do your cockles, only put to them a little more vinegar than you do to cockles. 398. _to pickle_ walnuts _green_. gather walnuts when they are as you can run a pin through them, pare them and put them in water, and let them lie four or five days, stirring it twice a day to take out the bitter, then put them in strong salt and water, let them lie a week or ten days, stirring it once or twice a day, then put them in fresh salt and water, and hang them over a fire, put to them a little allum, and cover them up close with vine leaves, let them hang over a slow fire whilst they be green, but be sure don't let them boil, when they are green pat them into a sieve to drain the water from them. 399. _to make_ pickle _for them_. take a little good alegar, put to it a little long pepper and jamaica pepper, a few bay leaves, a little horse-radish, a handful or two of mustard-seed, a little salt and a little rockambol if you have any, if not a few shalots; boil them altogether in the alegar, which put to your walnuts and let it stand three or four days, giving them a scald once a day, then tie them up for use. a spoonful of this pickle is good for fish-sauce, or a calf's head ash. 400. _to pickle_ walnuts _black_. gather walnuts when they are so tender that you can run a pin thro' them, prick them all with a pin very well, lie them in fresh water, and let them lie for a week, shifting them once a day; make for them a strong salt and water, and let them lie whilst they be yellow, stirring them once a day, then take 'em out of the salt and water, and boil it, put it on the top of your walnuts, and let your pot stand in the corner end, scald them once or twice a day whilst they be black. you may make the same pickle for those, as you did for the green ones. 401. _to pickle_ oysters. take the largest oysters you can get, pick them whole out of the shell, and take off the beards, wash them very well in their own pickle, so let the pickle settle, and clear it off, put it into a stew-pan, put to it two or three spoonfuls of white wine, and a little white wine vinegar; don't put in any water, for if there be not pickle enough of their own get a little cockle-pickle and put to it, a little jamaica pepper, white pepper and mace, boil and skim them very well; you must skim it before you put in your spices, then put in your oysters, and boil them in the pickle, when they are cold put them into a large bottle with a little oil on the top, set them in a cool place and keep them for use. 402. _to pickle large_ cucumbers. take cucumbers and put them in a strong salt and water, let them lie whilst they be throughly yellow, then scald them in the same salt and water they lie in, set them on the fire, and scald them once a day whilst they are green; take the best alegar you can get, put to it a little jamaica pepper and black pepper, some horse-radish in slices, a few bay leaves, and a little dill and salt, so scald your cucumbers twice or thrice in this pickle; then put them up for use. 403. _to pickle_ onions. take the smallest onions you can get, peel and put them into a large quantity of fair water, let them lie two days and shift them twice a day; then drain them from the water, take a little distill'd vinegar, put to 'em two or three blades of mace, and a little white pepper and salt, boil it, and pour it upon your onions, let them stand three days, so put them into little glasses, and tie a bladder over them; they are very good done with alegar; for common use, only put in jamaica pepper instead of mace. 404. _to pickle_ elder buds. take elder buds when they are the bigness of small walnuts, lie them in a strong salt and water for ten days, and then scald them in fresh salt and water, put in a lump of allum, let them stand in the corner end close cover'd up, and scalded once a day whilst green. you may do radish cods or brown buds the same way. 405. _to make the_ pickle. take a little alegar or white wine vinegar, and put to it two or three blades of mace, with a little whole pepper and jamaica pepper, a few bay leaves and salt, put to your buds, and scald them two or three times, then they are fit for use. 406. _to pickle_ mushrooms. take mushrooms when fresh gather'd, sort the large ones from the buttons, cut off the stalks, wash them in water with a flannel, have a pan of water ready on the fire to boil 'em in, for the less they lie in the water the better; let them have two or three boils over the fire, then put them into a sieve, and when you have drained the water from them put them into a pot, throw over them a handful of salt, stop them up close with a cloth, and let them stand two or three hours on the hot hearth or range end, giving your pot a shake now and then; then drain the pickle from them, and lie them in a cloth for an hour or two, so put into them as much distill'd vinegar as will cover them, let them lie a week or ten days, then take them out, and put them in dry bottles; put to them a little white pepper, salt and ginger sliced, fill them up with distill'd vinegar, put over 'em a little sweet oil, and cork them up close; if your vinegar be good they will keep two or three years; i know it by experience. you must be sure not to fill your bottles above three parts full, if you do they will not keep. 407. _to pickle_ mushrooms _another way_. take mushrooms and wash them with a flannel, throw them into water as you wash them, only pick the small from the large, put them into a pot, throw over them a little salt, stop up your pot close with a cloth, boil them in a pot of water as you do currans when you make a jelly, give them a shake now and then; you may guess when they are enough by the quantity of liquor that comes from them; when you think they are enough strain from them the liquor, put in a little white wine vinegar, and boil it in a little mace, white pepper, jamaica pepper, and slic'd ginger; then it is cold put it to the mushrooms, bottle 'em and keep 'em for use. they will keep this way very well, and have more of the taste of mushrooms, but they will not be altogether so white. 408. _to pickle_ potatoe crabs. gather your crabs when they are young, and about the bigness of a large cherry, lie them in a strong salt and water as you do other pickles, let them stand for a week or ten days, then scald them in the same water they lie in twice a day whilst green; make the same pickle for them as you do for cucumbers; be sure you scald them twice or thrice in the pickle and they will keep the better. 409. _to pickle large_ buttons. take your buttons, clean 'em and cut 'em in three or four pieces, put them into a large sauce-pan to stew in their own liquor, put to them a little jamaica and whole pepper, a blade or two of mace, and a little salt, cover it up, let it stew over a slow fire whilst you think they are enough, then strain from them their liquor, and put to it a little white wine vinegar or alegar, which you please, give it a boil together, and when it is cold put it to your mushrooms, and keep them for use. you may pickle flaps the same way. 410. _to make_ catchup. take large mushrooms when they are fresh gathered, cut off the dirty ends, break them small in your hands, put them in a stone-bowl with a handful or two of salt, and let them stand all night; if you don't get mushrooms enough at once, with a little salt they will keep a day or two whilst you get more, so put 'em in a stew-pot, and set them in an oven with household bread; when they are enough strain from 'em the liquor, and let it stand to settle, then boil it with a little mace, jamaica and whole black pepper, two or three shalots, boil it over a slow fire for an hour, when it is boiled let it stand to settle, and when it is cold bottle it; if you boil it well it will keep a year or two; you must put in spices according to the quantity of your catchup; you must not wash them, nor put to them any water. 411. _to make_ mango _of_ cucumbers _or_ small melons. gather cucumbers when they are green, cut a bit off the end and take out all the meat; lie them in a strong salt and water, let them lie for a week or ten days whilst they be yellow, then scald them in the same salt and water they lie in whilst green, then drain from them the water; take a little mustard-seed, a little horse-radish, some scraped and some shred fine, a handful of shalots, a claw or two of garlick if you like the taste, and a little shred mace; take six or eight cucumbers shred fine, mix them amongst the rest of the ingredients, then fill your melons or cucumbers with the meat, and put in the bits at the ends, tie them on with a string, so as will well cover them, and put into it a little jamaica and whole pepper, a little horse-radish and a handful or two of mustard-seed, then boil it, and pour it upon your mango; let it stand in the corner end two or three days, scald them once a day, and then tie them up for use. 412. _to pickle_ garkins. take garkins of the first growth, pick 'em clean, put 'em in a strong salt and water, let 'em lie a week or ten days whilst they be throughly yellow, then scald them in the same salt and water they lie in, scald them once a day, and let them lie whilst they are green, the set them in the corner end close cover'd. 413. _to make_ pickle _for your_ cucumbers. take a little alegar, (the quantity must be equal to the quantity of your cucumbers, and so must your seasoning) a little pepper, a little jamaica and long pepper, two or three shalots, a little horse-radish scraped or sliced, and little salt and a bit of allum, boil them altogether, and scald your cucumbers two or three times with your pickle, so tie them up for use. 414. _to pickle_ colliflower _white_. take the whitest colliflower you can get, break it in pieces the bigness of a mushroom; take as much distill'd vinegar as will cover it, and put to it a little white pepper, two or three blades of mace, and a little salt, then boil it and pour it on your colliflowers three times, let it be cold, then put it into your glasses or pots, and wet a bladder to tie over it to keep out the air. 415. _to pickle_ red cabbage. take a red cabbage, chuse it a purple red, for the light red never proves a good colour; so take your cabbage and shred it in very thin slices, season it with pepper and salt very well, let it lie all night upon a broad tin, or a dripping-pan; take a little alegar, put to it a little jamaica pepper, and two or three rases of ginger, boil them together, and when it is cold pour it upon your cabbage, and in two or three days time it will be fit for use. you may throw a little colliflower among it, and it will turn red. 416. _to pickle_ colliflower _another way_. take the colliflower and break it in pieces the bigness of a mushroom, but leave on a short stalk with the head; take some white wine vinegar, into a quart of vinegar, put six-pennyworth of cochineal beat well, also a little jamaica and whole pepper, and a little salt, boil them in vinegar, pour it over the colliflower hot, and let it stand two or three days close covered up; you may scald it once in three days whilst it be red, when it is red take it out of pickle, and wash the cochineal off in the pickle, so strain it through a hair sieve, and let it stand a little to settle, then put it to your colliflower again, and tie it up for use; the longer it lies in the pickle the redder it will be. 417. _to pickle_ walnuts _white_. take walnuts when they are at full growth and can thrust a pin through them, the largest sort you can get, pare them, and cut a bit off one end whilst you see the white, so you must pare off all the green, if you cut through the white to the kernel they will be spotted, and put them in water as you pare them; you must boil them in salt and water as you do mushrooms, and will take no more boiling than a mushroom; when they are boiled lay them on a dry cloth to drain out of the water, then put them into a pot, and put to them as much distill'd vinegar as will cover them, let them lie two or three days; then take a little more vinegar, put to it a few blades of mace, a little white pepper and salt, boil 'em together, when it is cold take your walnuts out of the other pickle and put into that, let them lie two or three days, pour it from them, give it another boil and skim it, when it is cold put to it your walnuts again, put them into a bottle, and put over them a little sweet oil, cork them up, and set them in a cool place; if your vinegar be good they will keep as long as the mushrooms. 418. _to pickle_ barberries. take barberries when full ripe, put them into a pot, boil a strong salt and water, then pour it on them boiling hot. 419. _to make_ barley-sugar. boil barley in water, strain it through a hair-sieve, then put the decoction into clarified sugar brought to a candy height, or the last degree of boiling, then take it off the fire, and let the boiling settle, then pour it upon a marble stone rubb'd with the oil of olives, when it cools and begins to grow hard, cut it into pieces, and rub it into lengths as you please. 420. _to pickle_ purslain. take the thickest stalks of purslain, lay them in salt and water six weeks, then take them out, put them into boiling water, and cover them well; let them hang over a slow fire till they be very green, when they are cold put them into pot, and cover them well with beer vinegar, and keep them covered close. 421. _to make_ punch _another way_. take a quart or two of sherbet before you put in your brandy, and the whites of four or five eggs, beat them very well, and set it over the fire, let it have a boil, then put it into a jelly bag, so mix the rest of your acid and brandy together, (the quantity you design to make) heat it and run it all through your jelly bag, change it in the running off whilst it look fine; let the peel of one or two lemons lie in the bag; you may make it the day before you use it, and bottle it. 422. _to make new_ college puddings. grate an old penny loaf, put to it a like quantity of suet shred, a nutmeg grated, a little salt and some currans, then beat some eggs in a little sack and sugar, mix all together, and knead it as stiff as for manchet, and make it up in the form and size of a turkey's egg, but a little flatter; take a pound of butter, put it in a dish or stew-pan, and set it over a clear fire in a chafing-dish, and rub your butter about the dish till it is melted, then put your puddings in, and cover the dish, but often turn your puddings till they are brown alike, and when they are enough grate some sugar over them, and serve them up hot. for a side-dish you must let the paste lie for a quarter of an hour before you make up your puddings. 423. _to make a_ custard pudding. take a pint of cream, mix it with six eggs well beat, two spoonfuls of flour, half a nutmeg grated, a little salt and sugar to your taste; butter your cloth, put it in when the pan boils, baste it just half an hour, and melt butter for the sauce. 424. _to make_ fryed toasts. chip a manchet very well, and cut it round ways in toasts, then take cream and eight eggs seasoned with sack, sugar, and nutmeg, and let these toasts steep in it about an hour, then fry them in sweet butter, serve them up with plain melted butter, or with butter, sack and sugar as you please. 425. _to make_ sauce _for_ fish or flesh. take a quart of vinegar or alegar, put it into a jug, then take jamaica pepper whole, some sliced ginger and mace; a few cloves, some lemon-peel, horse radish sliced, sweet herbs, six shalots peeled, eight anchovies, and two or three spoonfuls of shred capers, put all those in a linen bag, and put the bag into your alegar or vinegar, stop the jug close, and keep it for use. a spoonful cold is an addition to sauce for either fish or flesh. 426. _to make a_ savoury dish of veal. cut large collops of a leg of veal, spread them abroad on a dresser, hack them with the back of a knife, and dip them in the yolks of eggs, season them with nutmeg, mace, pepper and salt, then make forc'd-meat with some of your veal, beef-suit, oysters chop'd, and sweet herbs shred fine, and the above spice, strow all these over your collops, roll and tie them up, put them on skewers, tie them to a spit and roast them; and to the rest of your forc'd-meat add the yolk of an egg or two, and make it up in balls and fry them, put them in a dish with your meat when roasted, put a little water in the dish under them, and when they are enough put to it an anchovy, a little gravy, a spoonful of white wine, and thicken it up with a little flour and butter, so fry your balls and lie round the dish, and serve it up. this is proper for a side-dish either at noon or night. 427. _to make_ french bread. take half a peck of fine flour, the yolks of six eggs and four whites, a little salt, a pint of ale yeast, and as much new milk made warm as will make it a thin light paste, stir it about with your hand, but be sure you don't knead them; have ready six wooden quarts or pint dishes, fill them with the paste, (not over full) let them stand a quarter of an hour to rise, then turn them out into the oven, and when they are baked rasp them. the oven must be quick. 428. _to make_ ginger-bread _another way_. take three pounds of fine flour, and the rind of a lemon dried and beaten to powder, half a pound of sugar, or more if you like it, a little butter, and an ounce and a half of beaten ginger, mix all these together and wet it pretty stiff with nothing but treacle; make it into rolls or cakes which you please; if you please you may add candid orange peel and citron; butter your paper to bake it on, and let it be baked hard. 429. _to make_ quince cream. take quinces when they are full ripe, cut them in quarters, scald them till they be soft, pare them, and mash the clear part of them, and the pulp, and put it through a sieve, take an equal weight of quince and double refin'd sugar beaten and sifted; and the whites of eggs beat till it is as white as snow, then put it into dishes. you may do apple cream the same way. 430. _to make_ cream _of any preserved fruit_. take half a pound of the pulp of any preserved fruit, put it in a large pan, put to it the whites of two or three eggs, beat them well together for an hour, then with a spoon take off, and lay it heaped up high on the dish and salver without cream, or put it in the middle bason. rasberries will not do this way. 431. _to dry_ pears _or_ pippens _without sugar_. take pears or apples and wipe them clean, take a bodkin and run it in at the head, and out at the stalk, put them in a flat earthen pot and bake them, but not too much; you must put a quart of strong new ale to half a peck of pears, tie twice papers over the pots that they are baked in, let them stand till cold then drain them, squeeze the pears flat, and the apples, the eye to the stalk, and lay 'em on sieves with wide holes to dry, either in a stove or an oven not too hot. 432. _to preserve_ mulberries _whole_. set some mulberries over the fire in a skellet or preserving pan, draw from them a pint of juice when it is strain'd; then take three pounds of sugar beaten very fine, wet the sugar with the pint of juice, boil up your sugar and skim it, put in two pounds of ripe mulberries, and let them stand in the syrrup till they are throughly warm, then set them on the fire, and let them boil very gently; do them but half enough, so put them by in the syrrup till next day, then boil them gently again; when the syrrup is pretty thick and well stand in round drops when it is cold, they are enough, so put all in a gally-pot for use. 433. _to make_ orange cakes. cut your oranges, pick out the meat and juice free from the strings and seeds, set it by, then boil it, and shift the water till your peels are tender, dry them with a cloth, mince them small, and put them to the juice; to a pound of that weigh a pound and a half of double refin'd sugar; dip your lumps of sugar in water, and boil it to a candy height, take it off the fire and put in your juice and peel, stir it well, when it is almost cold put it into a bason, and set it in a stove, then lay it thin on earthen plates to dry, and as it candies fashion it with a knife, and lay them on glasses; when your plate is empty, put more out of your bason. 434. _to dry_ apricocks _like_ prunellos. take a pound of apricocks before they be full ripe, cut them in halves or quarters, let them boil till they be very tender in a thin syrrup, and let them stand a day or two in the stove, then take them out of the syrrup, lay them to dry till they be as dry as prunellos, then box 'em, if you please you may pare them. you may make your syrrup red with the juice of red plumbs. 435. _to preserve great white_ plumbs. to a pound of white plumbs take three quarters of a pound of double refin'd sugar in lumps, dip your sugar in water, boil and skim it very well, slit your plumbs down the seam; and put them into the syrrup with the slit downwards; let them stew over the fire a quarter of an hour, skim them very well, then take them off, and when cold cover them up; turn them in the syrrup two or three times a day for four or five days, then put them into pots and keep them for use. 436. _to make_ gooseberry wine _another way_. take gooseberries when they are full ripe, pick and beat them in a marble mortar; to every quart of berries put a quart of water, and put them into a tub and let them stand all night, then strain them through a hair-sieve, and press them very well with your hand; to every gallon of juice put three pounds of four-penny sugar; when your sugar is melted put it into the barrel, and to as many gallons of juice as you have, take as many pounds of malaga raisins, chop them in a bowl, and put them in the barrel with the wine; be sure let not your barrel be over full, so close it up, let it stand three months in the barrel, and when it is fine bottle it, but not before. 437. _to pickle_ nasturtium buds. gather your little nobs quickly after the blossoms are off, put them in cold water and salt three days, shifting them once a day; then make a pickle for them (but don't boil them at all) of some white wine, and some white wine vinegar, shalot, horse-radish, whole pepper and salt, and a blade or two of mace; then put in your seeds, and stop 'em close up. they are to be eaten as capers. 438. _to make_ elder-flower wine. take three or four handfuls of dry'd elder-flowers, and ten gallons of spring water, boil the water, and pour in scalding hot upon the flowers, the next day put to every gallon of water five pounds of malaga raisins, the stalks being first pick'd off, but not wash'd, chop them grosly with a chopping knife, then put them into your boiled water, stir the water, raisins and flowers well together, and do so twice a day for twelve days, then press out the juice clear as long as you can get any liquor; put it into a barrel fit for it, stop it up two or three days till it works, and in a few days stop it up close, and let it stand two or three months, then bottle it. 439. _to make_ pearl barley pudding. take half a pound of pearl barley, cree it in soft water, and shift it once or twice in the boiling till it be soft; take five eggs, put to them a pint of good cream, and half a pound of powder sugar, grate in half a nutmeg, a little salt, a spoonful or two of rose-water, and half a pound of clarified butter; when your barley is cold mix them altogether, so bake it with a puff-paste round your dish-edge. serve it up with a little rose-water, sugar and butter for your sauce. 440. _to make_ gooseberry vinegar _another way_. take gooseberries when they are full ripe, bruise them in a marble mortar or wooden bowl, and to every upheap'd half peck of berries take a gallon of water, put it to them in the barrel, let it stand in a warm place for two weeks, put a paper on the top of your barrel, then draw it off, wash out the barrel, put it in again, and to every gallon add a pound of coarse sugar; set it in a warm place by the fire, and let it stand whilst christmas. 441. _to preserve_ apricocks _green_. take apricocks when they are young and tender, coddle them a little, rub them with a coarse cloth to take off the skin, and throw them into water as you do them, and put them in the same water they were coddled in, cover them with vine leaves, a white paper, or something more at the top, the closer you keep them the sooner they are green; be sure you don't let them boil; when they are green weigh them, and to every pound of apricocks take a pound of loaf sugar, put it into a pan, and to every pound of sugar a jill of water, boil your sugar and water a little, and skim it, then put in your apricocks, let them boil together whilst your apricocks look clear, and your syrrup thick, skim it all the time it is boiling, and put them into a pot covered with a paper dip'd in brandy. 442. _to make_ orange chips _another way_. pare your oranges, not over thin but narrow, throw the rinds into fair water as you pare them off, then boil them therein very fast till they be tender, filling up the pan with boiling water as it wastes away, then make a thin syrrup with part of the water they are boiled in, put in the rinds, and just let them boil, then take them off, and let them lie in the syrrup three or four days, then boil them again till you find the syrrup begin to draw between your fingers, take them off from the fire and let them drain thro' your cullinder, take out but a few at a time, because if they cool too fast it will be difficult to get the syrrup from them, which must be done by passing every piece of peel through your fingers, and lying them single on a sieve with the rind uppermost, the sieve may be set in a stove, or before the fire; but in summer the sun is hot enough to dry them. three quarters of a pound of sugar will make syrrup to do the peels of twenty-five oranges. 443. _to make_ mushroom powder. take about half a peck of large buttons or slaps, clean them and set them in an earthen dish or dripping pan one by one, let them stand in a slow oven to dry whilst they will beat to powder, and when they are powdered sift them through a sieve; take half a quarter of a ounce of mace, and a nutmeg, beat them very fine, and mix them with your mushroom powder, then put it into a bottle, and it will be fit for use. you must not wash your mushrooms. 444. _to preserve_ apricocks _another way_. take your apricocks before they are full ripe, pare them and stone them, and to every pound of apricocks take a pound of lump loaf sugar, put it into your pan with as much water as will wet it; to four pounds of sugar take the whites of two eggs beat them well to a froth, mix them well with your sugar whilst it be cold, then set it over the fire and let it have a boil, take it off the fire, and put in a spoonful or two of water, then take off the skim, and do so three or four times whilst any skim rises, then put in your apricocks, and let them have a quick boil over the fire, then take them off and turn them over, let them stand a little while covered, and then set them on again, let them have another boil and skim them, then take them out one by one; set on your syrrup again to boil down, and skim it, then put in your apricocks again, and let them boil whilst they look clear, put them in pots, when they are cold cover them over with a paper dipt in brandy, and tie another paper at the top, set them in a cool place, and keep them for use. 445. _to pickle_ mushrooms _another way_. when you have cleaned your mushrooms put them into a pot, and throw over them a handful of salt, and stop them very close with a cloth, and set them in a pan of water to boil about an hour, give them a shake now and then in the boiling, then take them out and drain the liquor from them, wipe them dry with a cloth, and put them up either in white wine vinegar or distill'd vinegar, with spices, and put a little oil on the top. they don't look so white this way, but they have more the taste of mushrooms. 446. _how to fry_ mushrooms. take the largest and freshest flaps you can get, skin them and take out the gills, boil them in a little salt and water, then wipe them dry with a cloth; take two eggs and beat them very well, half a spoonful of wheat-flour, and a little pepper and salt, then dip in your mushrooms and fry them in butter. they are proper to lie about stew'd mushrooms or any made dish. 447. _how to make an_ ale posset. take a quart of good milk, set it on the fire to boil, put in a handful or two of breadcrumbs, grate in a little nutmeg, and sweeten it to your taste; take three jills of ale and give it a boil; take the yolks of four eggs, beat them very well, then put to them a little of your ale, and mix all your ale and eggs together; then set it on the fire to heat, keep stirring it all the time, but don't let it boil, if you do it will curdle; then put it into your dish, heat the milk and put it in by degrees; so serve it up. you may make it of any sort of made wine; make it half an hour before you use it, and keep it hot before the fire. 448. _to make_ minc'd pies _another way_. take half a pound of jordan almonds, blanch and beat them with a little rose-water, but not over small; take a pound of beef-suet shred very fine, half a pound of apples shred small, a pound of currans well cleaned, half a pound of powder sugar, a little mace shred fine, about a quarter of a pound of candid orange cut in small pieces, a spoonful or two of brandy, and a little salt, so mix them well together, and bake it in a puff-paste. 449. _to make_ sack posset _another way_. take a quart of good cream, and boil it with a blade or two of mace, put in about a quarter of a pound of fine powder sugar; take a pint of sack or better, set it over the fire to heat, but don't let it boil, then grate in a little nutmeg, and about a quarter of a pound of powder sugar; take nine eggs, (leave out six of the whites and strains) beat 'em very well, then put to them a little of your sack mix the sack and eggs very well together, then put to 'em the rest of your sack, stir it all the time you are pouring it in, set it over a slow fire to thicken, and stir it till it be as thick as custard; be sure you don't let it boil, if you do it will curdle, then pour it into your dish or bason; take your cream boiling hot, and pour to your sack by degrees, stirring it all the time you are pouring it in, then set it on a hot-hearth-stone; you must make it half an hour before you use it; before you set on the hearth cover it close with a pewter dish. _to make a_ froth _for them_. take a pint of the thickest cream you can get, and beat the whites of two eggs very well together, take off the cream by spoonfuls, and lie it in a sieve to drain; when you dish up the posset lie over it the froth. 450. _to dry_ cherries _another way_. take cherries when full ripe, stone them, and break 'em as little as you can in the stoning; to six pounds of cherries take three pounds of loaf sugar, beat it, lie one part of your sugar under your cherries, and the other at the top, let them stand all night, then put them into your pan, and boil them pretty quick whilst your cherries change and look clear, then let them stand in the syrrup all night, pour the syrrup from them, and put them into a pretty large sieve, and set them either in the sun or before the fire; let them stand to dry a little, then lay them on white papers one by one, let them stand in the sun whilst they be thoroughly dry, in the drying turn them over, then put them into a little box; betwixt every layer of cherries lie a paper, and so do till all are in, then lie a paper at the top, and keep them for use. you must not boil them over long in the syrrup, for if it be over thick it will keep them from drying; you may boil two or three pounds more cherries in the syrrup after. 451. _how to order_ sturgeon. if your sturgeon be alive, keep it a night and a day before you use it; then cut off the head and tail, split it down the back, and cut it into as many pieces as you please; salt it with bay salt and common salt, as you would do beef for hanging, and let it lie 24 hours; then tie it up very tight, and boil it in salt and water whilst it is tender; (you must not boil it over much) when it is boiled throw over it a little salt, and set it by till it be cold. take the head and split it in two and tye it up very tight; you must boil it by itself, not so much as you did the rest, but salt it after the same manner. 452. _to make the_ pickle. take a gallon of soft water, and make it into a strong brine; take a gallon of stale beer, and a gallon of the best vinegar, and let it boil together, with a few spices; when it is cold put in your sturgeon; you may keep it (if close covered) three or four months before you need to renew the pickle. 453. _to make_ hotch-potch. take five or six pounds of fresh beef, put it in a kettle with six quarts of soft water, and an onion; set it on a slow fire, and let it boil til your beef is almost enough; then put in the scrag of a neck of mutton, and let them boil together till the broth be very good; put in two or three handfuls of breadcrumbs, two or three carrots and turnips cut small, (but boil the carrots in water before you put them in, else they will give your broth a taste) with half a peck of shill'd pease, but take up the meat before you put them in, when you put in the pease take the other part of your mutton and cut it in chops, (for it will take no more boiling than the pease) and put it in with a few sweet herbs shred very small, and salt to your taste. you must send up the mutton chops in the dish with the hotch-potch. when there are no pease to be had, you may put in the heads of asparagus, and if there be neither of these to be had, you may shred in a green savoy cabbage. this is a proper dish instead of soop. 454. _to make_ minc'd collops. take two or three pounds of any tender parts of beef, (according as you would have the dish in bigness) cut it small as you would do minc'd veal; take an onion, shred it small, and fry it a light brown, in butter seasoned with nutmeg, pepper and salt, and put it into your pan with your onion, and fry it a little whilst it be a light brown; then put to it a jill of good gravy, and a spoonful of walnut pickle, or a little catchup; put in a few shred capers or mushrooms, thicken it up with a little flour and butter; if you please you may put in a little juice of lemon; when you dish it up, garnish your dish with pickle; and a few forc'd-meat-balls. it is proper for either side-dish or top-dish. 455. _to make white_ scotch collops _another way_. take two pounds of the solid part of a leg of veal, cut it in pretty thin slices, and season it with a little shred mace and salt, put it into your stew-pan with a lump of butter, set it over the fire, keep it stirring all the time, but don't let it boil; when you are going to dish up the collops, put to them the yolks of two or three eggs, three spoonfuls of cream, a spoonful or two of white wine, and a little juice of lemon, shake it over the fire whilst it be so thick that the sauce sticks to the meat, be sure you don't let it boil. garnish your dish with lemon and sippets, and serve it up hot. this is proper for either side-dish or top-dish, noon or night. 456. _to make_ vinegar _another way_. take as many gallons of water as you please, and to every gallon of water put in a pound of four-penny sugar, boil it for half an hour and skim it all the time; when it is about blood warm put to it about three or four spoonfuls of light yeast, let it work in the tub a night and a day, put it into your vessel, close up the top with a paper, and set it as near the fire as you have convenience, and in two or three days it will be good vinegar. 457. _to preserve_ quinces _another way_. take quinces, pare and put them into water, save all the parings and cores, let 'em lie in the water with the quinces, set them over the fire with the parings and cores to coddle, cover them close up at the top with the parings, and lie over them either a dishcover or pewter dish, and cover them close; let them hang over a very slow fire whilst they be tender; but don't let them boil; when they are soft take them out of the water, and weigh your quinces, and to every pound put a pint of the same water they were coddled in (when strained) and put to your quinces, and to every pound of quinces put a pound of sugar; put them into a pot or pewter flagon, the pewter makes them a much better colour; close them up with a little coarse paste, and set them in a bread oven all night; if the syrrup be too thin boil it down, put it to your quinces, and keep it for use. you may either do it with powder sugar or loaf sugar. 458. _to make_ almond cheesecakes _another way_. take the peel of two or three lemons pared thick, boil them pretty soft, and change the water two or three times in the boiling; when they are boiled beat them very fine with a little loaf sugar, then take eight eggs, (leaving out six of the whites) half a pound of loaf or powder sugar, beat the eggs and sugar for half an hour, or better; take a quarter of a pound of the best almonds, blanch and beat them with three or four spoonfuls of rose-water, but not over small; take ten ounces of fresh butter, melt it without water, and clear off from it the butter-milk, then mix them altogether very well, and bake them in a slow oven in a puff-paste; before you put them into the tins, put in the juice of half a lemon. when you put them in the oven grate over them a little loaf sugar. you may make them without almonds, if you please. you may make a pudding of the same, only leave out the almonds. _finis_. english housewifry _improved_; or, a supplement to moxon's cookery. containing, upwards of sixty modern and valuable receipts in pastry made dishes preserving made wines, &c. &c. collected by a person of judgment. supplement to moxon's cookery. 1. _a_ granade. take the caul of a leg of veal, lie it into a round pot; put a layer of the flitch part of bacon at the bottom, then a layer of forc'd-meat, and a layer of the leg part of veal cut as for collops, 'till the pot is fill'd up; which done, take the part of the caul that lies over the edge of the pot, close it up, tie a paper over, and send it to the oven; when baked, turn it out into your dish.--_sauce_. a good light-brown gravy, with a few mushrooms, morels, or truffles; serve it up hot. 2. _the fine brown_ jelly. boil four calf's feet in six quarts of water 'till it is reduced to three pints, tale off the feet and let the stock cool, then melt it, and have ready in a stew-pan, a spoonful of butter hot, add to it a spoonful of fine flour, stir it with a wood spoon over a stove-fire, 'till it is very brown, but not burnt, then put the jelly out, and let it boil; when cold take off the fat, melt the jelly again and put to it half a pint of red port, the juice and peel of half a lemon, white pepper, mace, a little jamaica pepper, and a little salt; then have ready the whites of four eggs, well froth'd, and put them into the jelly, (take care the jelly be not too hot when the whites are put in) stir it well together, and boil it over a quick fire one minute, run it thro' a flannel bag and turn it back till it is clear, and what form you would have it, have that ready, pour a little of the jelly in the bottom, it will soon starken; then place what you please in it, either pigeon or small chicken, sweet-bread larded, or pickled smelt or trout, place them in order, and pour on the remainder of the jelly. you may send it up in this form, or turn it into another dish, with holding it over hot water; but not till it is thoroughly hardened. 3. _to make a_ mellon. make the leanest forc'd-meat that you can, green it as near the colour of mellon as possible with the juice of spinage, as little of the juice as you can; put several herbs in it, especially parsley, shred fine, for that will help to green it; roll it an inch and a half thick, lay one half in a large mellon mould, well buttered and flowered, with the other half the full size of the mould, sides and all; then put into it as many stew'd oysters as near fills it with liquor sufficient to keep them moist, and close the forc'd-meat well together; close the melon and boil it till you think it is enough; then make a small hole (if possible not to be perceived) pour in a little more of the liquor that the oysters were stew'd in hot, and serve it up with hot sauce in the dish. it must be boiled in a cloth, and is either for a first or second course. 4. _hot_ chicken pie. order the chickens as for fricassy, and form the pie deep, lay in the bottom a mince-meat made of the chicken's livers, ham, parsley and yolks of eggs; season with white pepper, mace, and a little salt; moisten with butter, then lay the chicken above the minc'd meat, and a little more butter; cover the pie and bake it two hours; when baked take off the fat, and add to it white gravy, with a little juice of lemon. serve this up hot. 5. sheep's rumps _with_ rice. stew the rumps very tender, then take 'em out to cool, dip them in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them a light brown; have ready half a pound of rice, well wash'd and pick'd, and half a pound of butter; let it stew ten minutes in a little pot; then add a pint of good gravy to the rice and butter, and let it stew half an hour longer; have ready six onions boil'd very tender, and six yolks of boil'd eggs, stick them with cloves; then place the sheep rumps on the dish, and put round them the rice as neatly as you can; place the onions and eggs over the rice, so serve it up hot. 6. sheep's tongues _broil'd_. the tongues being boil'd, put a lump of butter in a stew-pan, with parsley and green onions cut small; then split the tongues, but do not part them, and put them in the pan, season them with pepper, herbs, mace, and nutmeg; set them a moment on the fire, and strow crumbs of bread on them; let them be broil'd and dish them up, with a high gravy sauce. 7. _to lard_ oysters. make a strong essence of ham and veal, with a little mace; then lard the large oysters with a fine larding pin; put them, with as much essence as will cover them, into a stew-pan; let them stew and hour, or more, over a slow fire. they are used for garnishing, but when you make a dish of them, squeeze in a seville orange. 8. veal couley. take a little lean bacon and veal, onion, and the yellow part of a carrot, put it into a stew-pan; set it over a slow fire, and let it simmer till the gravy is quite brown, then put in small gravy, or boiling water; boil it a quarter of an hour, and then it is ready for use. take two necks of mutton, bone them, lard one with bacon, the other with parsley; when larded, put a little couley over a slow stove, with a slice of lemon whilst the mutton is set, then skewer it up like a couple of rabbits, put it on the spit and roast it as you would any other mutton; then serve it up with ragoo'd cucumbers. this will do for first course; bottom dish. 9. _the_ mock turtle. take a fine large calf's head, cleans'd well and stew'd very tender, a leg of veal twelve pounds weight, leave out three pounds of the finest part of it; then take three fine large fowls, (bone them, but leave the meat as whole as possible,) and four pounds of the finest ham sliced; then boil the veal, fowls bones, and the ham in six quarts of water, till it is reduced to two quarts, put in the fowl and the three pounds of veal, and let them boil half an hour; take it off the fire and strain the gravy from it; add to the gravy three pints of the best white wine, boil it up and thicken it; then put in the calf's-head; have in readiness twelve large forc'd-meat-balls, as large as an egg, and twelve yolks of eggs boil'd hard. dish it up hot in a terreen. 10. _to dress_ ox lips. take three or four ox lips, boil them as tender as possible, dress them clean the day before they are used; then make a rich forc'd-meat of chicken or half-roasted rabbits, and stuff the lips with it; they will naturally turn round; tie them up with pack-thread and put them into gravy to stew; they must stew while the forc'd-meat be enough. serve them up with truffles, morels, mushrooms, cockscombs, forc'd-meat balls, and a little lemon to your taste. this is a top-dish for second, or side dish for first course. 11. _to make_ poverade. take a pint of good gravy, half a jill of elder vinegar, six shalots, a little pepper and salt, boil all these together a few minutes, and strain it off. this is a proper sauce for turkey, or any other sort of white fowls. 12. _to pot_ partridges. take the partridges and season them well with mace, salt and a little pepper; lie 'em in the pot with the breast downwards, to every partridge put three quarters of a pound of butter, send them to the oven, when baked, drain them from the butter and gravy, and add a little more seasoning, then put them close in the pot with the breasts upwards, and when cold, cover them well with the butter, suit the pot to the number of the partridges to have it full. you may pot any sort of moor game the same way. 13. _to pot_ partridges _another way_. put a little thyme and parsley in the inside of the partridges, season them with mace, pepper and salt; put them in the pot, and cover them with butter; when baked, take out the partridges, and pick all the meat from the bones, lie the meat in a pot (without beating) skim all the butter from the gravy, and cover the pot well with the butter. 14. _to pot_ chare. scrape and gut them, wash and dry them clean, season them with pepper, salt, mace, and nutmeg; let the two last seasonings be higher than the other; put a little butter at the bottom of the pot, then lie in the dish, and put butter at the top, three pounds of butter to four pounds of chare; when they are baked (before they are cold) pour off the gravy and butter, put two or three spoonfuls of butter into the pot you keep them in, then lie in the dish, scum the butter clean from the gravy, and put the butter over the dish, so keep it for use. 15. salmon _en_ maigre. cut some slices of fresh salmon the thickness of your thumb, put them in a stew-pan with a little onion, white pepper and mace, and a bunch of sweet herbs, pour over it half a pint of white wine, half a jill of water, and four ounces of butter (to a pound and half of salmon;) cover the stew-pot close, and stew it half an hour; then take out the salmon, and place it on the dish; strain off the liquor, and have ready craw-fish, pick'd from the shell, or lobster cut in small pieces; pound the shells of the craw-fish, or the seeds of the lobster, and give it a turn in the liquor; thicken it, and serve it up hot with the craw-fish, or lobster, over the salmon. trouts may be done the same way, only cut off their heads. 16. lobster a'l'italienne. cut the tail of the lobster in square pieces, take the meat out of the claws, bruise the red part of the lobster very fine, stir it in a pan with a little butter, put some gravy to it; strain it off while hot, then put in the lobster with a little salt; make it hot, and send it up with sippets round your dish. 17. _to do_ chickens, _or any_ fowl's feet. scald the feet till the skin will come off, then cut off the nails; stew them in a pot close cover'd set in water, and some pieces of fat meat till they are very tender; when you set them on the fire, put to them some whole pepper, onion, salt, and some sweet herbs; when they are taken out, wet them over with the yolk of an egg, and dridge them well with bread-crumbs; so fry them crisp. 18. larks _done in_ jelly. boil a knuckle of veal in a gallon of water till it is reduced to three pints, (it must not be covered but done over a clear fire) scum it well and clarify it, then season the larks with pepper and salt, put them in a pot with butter, and send them to the oven; when baked take them out of the butter whilst hot, take the jelly and season it to your taste with pepper and salt; then put the jelly and larks into a pan together, and give them a scald over the fire; so lie them in pots and cover them well with jelly. when you use them, turn them out of the pots, and serve them up. 19. _the fine_ catchup. take three quarts of red port, a pint of vinegar, one pound of anchovies unwash'd, pickle and altogether, half an ounce of mace, ten cloves, eight races of ginger, one spoonful of black pepper, eight ounces of horseradish, half a lemon-peel, a bunch of winter-savory, and four shalots; stew these in a pot, within a kettle of water, one full hour, then strain it thro' a close sieve, and when it is cold bottle it; shake it well before you bottle it, that the sediment may mix. you may stew all the ingredients over again, in a quart of wine for present use. 20. walnut catchup. take the walnuts when they are ready for pickling, beat them in a mortar, and strain the juice thro' a flannel bag; put to a quart of juice a jill of white wine, a jill of vinegar, twelve shalots sliced, a quarter of an ounce of mace, two nutmegs sliced, one ounce of black pepper, twenty four cloves, and the peels of two seville oranges, pared so thin that no white appears, boil it over a slow fire very well, and scum it as it boils; let it stand a week or ten days cover'd very close, then pour it thro' the bag, and bottle it. 21. _a very good_ white _or_ almond soop. take veal, fowl, or any white meat, boiled down with a little mace, (or other spice to your taste) let these boil to mash, then strain off the gravy; take some of the white fleshy part of the meat and rub it thro' a cullender; have ready two ounces of almonds beat fine, rub these thro' the cullender, then put all into the gravy, set it on the fire to thicken a little, and stir in it two or three spoonfuls of cream, and a little butter work'd in flour; then have ready a french roll crisp'd for the middle, and slips of bread cut long like savoy biskets. serve it up hot. 22. almond pudding. take one pound of almonds, blanch'd and beat fine, one pint of cream, the yolks of twelve eggs, two ounces of grated bread, half a pound of suet, marrow, or melted butter, three quarters of a pound of fine sugar, a little lemon-peel and cinnamon; bake it in a slow oven, in a dish, or little tins. the above are very good put in skins. 23. almond pudding _another way_. boil a quart of cream, when cold, mix in the whites of seven eggs well beat; blanch five ounces of almonds, beat them with rose or orange-flower water, mix in the eggs and cream; sweeten it to your taste with fine powder sugar, then mix in a little citron or orange, put a thin paste at the bottom, and a thicker round the edge of the dish. bake in a slow oven.--sauce. wine and sugar. 24. almond cheesecakes _another way_. six ounces of almonds, blanch'd and beat with rose-water; six ounces of butter beat to cream; half a pound of fine sugar; six eggs well beat, and a little mace. bake these in little tins, in cold butter paste. 25. _a_ lemon pudding _another way_. take a quarter of a pound of almonds, three quarters of a pound of sugar, beat and searc'd, half a pound of butter; beat the almonds with a little rose-water, grate the rinds of two lemons, beat eleven eggs, leave out two whites, melt the butter an stir it in; when the oven is ready mix all these well together, with the juice of one or two lemons to your taste; put a thin paste at the bottom, and a thicker round the edge of the dish. sauce. wine and sugar. 26. potatoe pudding _another way_. take three quarters of a pound of potatoes, when boil'd and peel'd, beat them in a mortar with a quarter of a pound of suet or butter, (if butter, melt it) a quarter of a pound of powder sugar, five eggs well beat, a pint of good milk, one spoonful of flour, a little mace or cinnamon, and three spoonfuls of wine or brandy; mix all these well together, and bake it in a pretty quick oven. sauce. wine and butter. 27. carrot pudding _another way_. take half a pound of carrots, when boil'd and peel'd, beat them in a mortar, two ounces of grated bread, a pint of cream, half a pound of suet or marrow, a glass of sack, a little cinnamon, half a pound of sugar, six eggs well beat, leaving out three of the whites, and a quarter of a pound of macaroons; mix all well together; puff-paste round the dish-edge. sauce. wine and sugar. 28. white pott _another way_. a layer of white bread cut thin at the bottom of the dish, a layer of apples cut thin, a layer of marrow or suet, currans, raisins, sugar and nutmeg, then the bread, and so on, as above, till the dish is fill'd up; beat four eggs, and mix them with a pint of good milk, a little sugar and nutmeg, and pour it over the top. this should be made three or four hours before it is baked. sauce. wine and butter. 29. hunting pudding _another way_. take a pound of grated bread, a pound of suet and a pound of currans, eight eggs, a glass of brandy, a little sugar, and a little beat cinnamon; mix these well together, and boil it two hours at the least. 30. almond biskets. blanch a pound of almonds, lie them in water for three or four hours, dry them with a cloth, and beat them fine with eight spoonfuls of rose or orange-flower water; then boil a pound of fine sugar to wire-height, and stir in the almonds, mix them well over the fire; but do not let them boil; pour them into a bason, and beat them with a spoon 'till quite cold; then beat six whites of eggs, a quarter of a pound of starch, beat and searc'd, beat the eggs and starch together, 'till thick; stir in the almonds, and put them in queen-cake tins, half full, dust them over with a little searc'd sugar; bake 'em in a slow oven, and keep them dry. 31. _to make_ almond butter _another way_. take a quart of cream, six eggs well beat, mix them and strain them into a pan, keep it stirring on the fire whilst it be ready to boil; then add a jack of sack, keeping it stirring till it comes to a curd; wrap it close in a cloth till the whey be run from it; then put the curd into a mortar, and beat it very fine, together with a quarter of a pound of blanch'd almonds, beaten with rose-water, and half a pound of loaf sugar; when all these are well beaten together, put it into glasses. this will keep a fortnight. 32. apricock jumballs. take ripe apricocks, pare, stone, and beat them small, then boil them till they are thick, and the moisture dry'd up, then take them off the fire, and beat them up with searc'd sugar, to make them into pretty stiff paste, roll them, without sugar, the thickness of a straw; make them up in little knots in what form you please; dry them in a stove or in the sun. you may make jumballs of any sort of fruit the same way. 33. burnt cream. boil a stick of cinnamon in a pint of cream, four eggs well beat, leaving out two whites, boil the cream and thicken it with the eggs as for a custard; then put it in your dish, and put over it half a pound of loaf sugar beat and searc'd; heat a fire-shovel red-hot, and hold it over the top till the sugar be brown. so serve it up. 34. _little_ plumb cakes. take two pounds of flour dry'd, three pounds of currans well wash'd, pick'd and dry'd, four eggs beaten with two spoonfuls of sack, half a jack of cream, and one spoonful of orange-flower or rose-water; two nutmegs grated, one pound of butter wash'd in rose-water and rub'd into the flour, and one pound of loaf sugar searc'd, mix all well together, and put in the currans; butter the tins and bake them in a quick oven; half an hour will bake it. 35. york ginger-bread _another way_. take two pounds and a half of stale bread grated fine, (but not dry'd) two pound of fine powder sugar, an ounce of cinnamon, half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of ginger, a quarter of an ounce of saunders, and a quarter of a pound of almonds; boil the sugar, saunders, ginger, and mace in half a pint of red wine; then put in three spoonfuls of brandy, cinnamon, and a quarter of an ounce of cloves; stir in half the bread on the fire, but do not let it boil; pour it out, and work in the rest of the bread with the almonds; then smother it close half an hour; print it with cinnamon and sugar search'd, and keep it dry. 36. ginger-bread _in little tins_. to three quarters of a pound of flour, put half a pound of treacle, one pound of sugar, and a quarter of a pound of butter; mace, cloves, and nutmeg, in all a quarter of an ounce; a little ginger, and a few carraway seeds; melt the butter in a glass of brandy, mix altogether with one egg; then butter the tins, and bake them in a pretty quick oven. 37. oat-meal cakes. take a peck of fine flour, half a peck of oat-meal, and mix it well together; put to it seven eggs well beat, three quarts of new milk, a little warm water, a pint of sack, and a pint of new yeast; mix all these well together, and let it stand to rise; then bake them. butter the stone every time you lie on the cakes, and make them rather thicker than a pan-cake. 38. bath cakes. take two pounds of flour, a pound of sugar, and a pound of butter; wash the butter in orange-flower water, and dry the flour; rub the butter into the flour as for puff-paste, beat three eggs fine in three spoonfuls of cream, and a little mace and salt, mix these well together with your hand, and make them into little cakes; rub them over with white of egg, and grate sugar upon them; a quarter of an hour will bake them in a slow oven. 39. _a rich white_ plumb-cake. take four pounds of flour dry'd, two pounds of butter, one pound and a half of double refin'd sugar beat and searc'd, beat the butter to cream, then put in the sugar and beat it well together; sixteen eggs leaving out four yolks; a pint of new yeast; five jills of good cream, and one ounce of mace shred; beat the eggs well and mix them with the butter and sugar; put the mace in the flour; warm the cream, mix it with the yeast, and run it thro' a hair sieve, mix all these into a paste; then add one pound of almonds blanch'd and cut small, and six pounds of currans well wash'd, pick'd and dry'd; when the oven is ready, stir in the currans, with one pound of citron, lemon or orange; then butter the hoop and put it in. this cake will require two hours and a half baking in a quick oven. 40. _an_ ising _for the_ cake. one pound and a half of double-refin'd sugar, beat and searc'd; the whites of four eggs, the bigness of a walnut of gum-dragon, steep'd in rose or orange-flower water; two ounces of starch, beat fine with a little powder-blue (which adds to the whiteness) while the cake is baking beat the ising and lie it on with a knife as soon as the cake is brought from the oven. 41. lemon brandy. pour a gallon of brandy into an earthen pot, put to it the yellow peel of two dozen lemons, let it stand two days and two nights, then pour two quarts of spring water into a pan and dissolve in it two pounds of refin'd loaf sugar, boil it a quarter of an hour, and put it to the brandy; then boil and scum three jills of blue milk, and mix all together, let it stand two days more, then run it thro' a flannel bag, or a paper within a tunnel, and bottle it. 42. _to make_ ratifee _another way_. take a hundred apricocks stones, break them, and bruise the kernels, then put them in a quart of the best brandy; let them stand a fortnight; shake them every day; put to them six ounces of white sugar-candy, and let them stand a week longer; then put the liquor thro' a jelly bag, and bottle it for use. 43. _to preserve_ grapes _all winter_. pull them when dry, dip the stalks about an an inch of boiling water, and seal the end with wax; chop wheat straw and put a little at the bottom of the barrel, then a layer of grapes, and a layer of straw, 'till the barrel is fill'd up; do not lie the bunches too near one another; stop the barrel close, and set it in a dry place; but not any way in the sun. 44. _to preserve_ grapes _another way_. take ripe grapes and stone them; to every pound of grapes take a pound of double-refined sugar; let them stand till the sugar is dissolved; boil them pretty quick till clear; then strain out the grapes, and add half a pound of pippen jelly, and half a pound more sugar; boil and skim it till a jelly; put in the grapes to heat; afterwards strain them out, and give the jelly a boil; put it to the grapes and stir it till near cold; then glass it. 45. barberry cakes. draw off the juice as for curran jelly, take the weight of the jelly in sugar, boil the sugar to sugar again; then put in the jelly, and keep stirring till the sugar is dissolved; let it be hot, but not boil; then pour it out, and stir it three or four times; when it is near cold drop it on glasses in little cakes, and set them in the stove. if you would have them in the form of jumballs, boil the sugar to a high candy, but not to sugar again, and pour it on a pie plate; when it will part from the plate cut it, and turn them into what form you please. 46. barberry drops. when the barberries are full ripe, pull 'em off the stalk, put them in a pot, and boil them in a pan of water till they are soft, then pulp them thro' a hair-sieve, beat and searce the sugar, and mix as much of the searc'd sugar with the pulp, as will make it of the consistance of a light paste; then drop them with a pen-knife on paper (glaz'd with a slight stone) and set them within the air of the fire for an hour, then take them off the paper and keep them dry. 47. _to candy_ oranges _whole another way_. take the seville oranges, pare off the red as thin as you can, then tie them in a thin cloth (with a lead weight to keep the cloth down) put 'em in a lead or cistern of river water, let them lie five or six days, stirring 'em about every day, then boil them while they are very tender, that you may put a straw thro' them; mark them at the top with a thimble, cut it out, and take out all the inside very carefully, then wash the skins clean in warm water, and set them to drain with the tops downwards; fine the sugar very well, and when it is cold put in the oranges; drain the syrrup from the oranges, and boil it every day till it be very thick, then once a month; one orange will take a pound of sugar. 48. _to candy_ ginger. take the thickest races of ginger, put them them in an earthen pot, and cover them with river water; put fresh water to them every day for a fortnight; then tie the ginger in a cloth, and boil it an hour in a large pan of water; scrape off the brown rind, and cut the inside of the races as broad and thin as you can, one pound of ginger will take three pounds of loaf sugar; beat and searce the sugar, and put a layer of the thin-slic'd ginger, and a layer of searc'd sugar into an earthen bowl, having sugar at the top; stir it well every other day for a fortnight, then boil it over a little charcoal; when it is candy-height take it out of the pan as quick as you can with a spoon, and lie it in cakes on a board; when near cold take them off and keep them dry. 49. _to preserve_ wine-sours. take wine-sours and loaf sugar an equal weight, wet the sugar with water; the white of one egg will fine four pounds of sugar, and as the scum rises throw on a little water; then take off the pan, let it stand a little to settle and skim it; boil it again while any scum rises; when it is clear and a thick syrrup, take it off, and let it stand till near cold; then nick the plumbs down the seam, and let them have a gentle heat over the fire; take the plumbs and syrrup and let them stand a day or two, but don't cover them; then give them another gentle heat; let them stand a day longer, and heat them again; take the plumbs out out and drain them, boil the syrrup and skim it well, then put the syrrup on the winesours, and when cold, put them into bottles or pots, tie a bladder close over the top, so keep them for use. 50. curran jelly. take eight pounds of ripe, pick'd fruit, put these into three pounds of sugar boil'd candy height, and so let these simmer till the jelly will set; then run it off clear thro' a flannel bag, and glass it up for use. this never looks blue, nor skims half so much, as the other way. 51. _to preserve red or white_ currans _whole_. pick two pounds of currans from the stalks, then take a pound and a half of loaf sugar, and wet it in half a pint of curran juice, put in the berries, and boil them over a slow fire till they are clear; when cold put them in small berry bottles, with a little mutton suet over them. 52. syrrup of poppies. take two pounds of poppy flowers, two ounces of raisins, shred them, and to every pound of poppies put a quart of boiling water, half an ounce of sliced liquorice, and a quarter of an ounce of anniseeds; let these stand twelve hours to infuse, then strain off the liquor, and put it upon the same quantity of poppies, raisins, liquorice, and anniseeds as before, and let this stand twelve hours to infuse, which must be in a pitcher, set within a pot or pan of hot water; then strain it, and take the weight in sugar, and boil it to a syrrup: when it is cold, bottle it. 53. _to make_ black paper _for drawing patterns_. take a quarter of a pound of mutton suet, and one ounce of bees wax, melt both together and put in as much lamp black as will colour it dark enough, then spread it over your paper with a rag, and hold it to the fire to make it smooth. 54. gooseberry vinegar _another way_. to every gallon of water, put six pounds of ripe gooseberries; boil the water and let it be cold, squeeze the berries, and then pour on the water; let it stand cover'd three days pretty warm to work, stirring it once a day; then strain it off, and to every six gallons put three pounds of coarse sugar, let it stand till it has done working, then bung it up, and keep it moderately warm, in nine months it will be ready for use. 55. _to make bad ale into good strong beer_. draw off the ale into a clean vessel, (supposing half a hogshead) only leave out eight or ten quarts, to which put four pounds of good hops, boil this near an hour; when quite cold, put the ale and hops into the hogshead, with eight pounds of treacle, mix'd well with four or five quarts of boil'd ale; stir it well together, and bung it up close: let it stand six months, then bottle it for use. 56. _green_ gooseberry wine. to every quart of gooseberries, take a quart of spring water, bruise them in a mortar, put the water to them and let them stand two or three days, then strain it off, and to every gallon of liquor put three pounds and a half of sugar, then put it into the barrel, and it will of itself rise to a froth, which take off, and keep the barrel full; when the froth is all work'd off, bung it up for six weeks, then rack it off, and when the lees are clean taken out, put the wine into the same barrel; and to every gallon put half a pound of sugar, made in syrrup, and when cold mix with wine; to every five gallons, have an ounce of isinglass, dissolv'd in a little of the wine, and put in with the syrrup, so bung it up; when fine, you may either bottle it or draw it out of the vessel. lisbon sugar is thought the best. this wine drinks like sack. 57. ginger wine. take fourteen quarts of water, three pounds of loaf sugar, and one ounce of ginger sliced thin, boil these together half an hour, fine it with the whites of two eggs; when new milk warm put in three lemons, a quart of brandy, and a white bread toast, covered on both sides with yeast; put all these together into a stand, and work it in one day; then tun it: it will be ready to bottle in five days, and be ready to drink in a week after it is bottled. 58. cowslip wine _another way_. to five gallons of water, put two pecks of cowslip peeps, and thirteen pounds of loaf sugar; boil the sugar and water with the rinds of two lemons, half an hour, and fine it with the whites of two eggs; when it is near cold put in the cowslips, and set on six spoonfuls of new yeast, work it two days, stirring it twice a day; when you squeeze out the peeps to tun it, put in the juice of six lemons, and when it has done working in the vessel, put in the quarter of an ounce of isinglass, dissolv'd in the little of the wine till it is a jelly; add a pint of brandy, bung it close up two months, then bottle it. this is right good. 59. strong mead _another way_. to thirty quarts of water, put ten quarts of honey, let the water be pretty warm, then break in the honey, stirring it till it be all dissolv'd, boil it a full half hour, when clean scum'd that no more will rise, put in half an ounce of hops, pick'd clean from the stalks; a quarter of an ounce of ginger sliced (only put in half the ginger) and boil it a quarter of an hour longer; then lade it out into the stand thro' a hair-tems, and put the remainder of the ginger in, when it is cold tun it into the vessel, which must be full; but not clay'd up till near a month: make it the latter end of _september_, and keep it a year in the vessel after it is clay'd up. 60. french bread. to half a peck of flour, put a full jill of new yeast, and a little salt, make it with new milk (warmer than from the cow) first put the flour and barm together, then pour in the milk, make it a little stiffer than a seed-cake, dust it and your hands well with flour, pull it in little pieces, and mould it with flour very quick; put it in the dishes, and cover them with a warm cloth (if the weather requires it) and let them rise till they are half up, then set them in the oven, (not in the dishes, but turn them with tops down upon the peel;) when baked rasp them. 61. _the fine_ rush cheese. take one quart of cream, and put to it a gallon of new milk, pretty warm, adding a good spoonful of earning; stir in a little salt, and set it before the fire till it be cum'd; then put it into a vat in a cloth; after a day and night turn it out of the vat into a rush box nine inches in length and five in breadth. the rushes must be wash'd every time the cheese is turn'd. finis. a bill of fare for every season of the year. for _january_. _first course_. at the top gravy soop. remove fish. at the bottom a ham. in the middle stew'd oysters or brawn. for the four corners. a fricassy of rabbits, scotch collops, boil'd chickens, calf foot pie, or oyster loaves. _second course_. at the top wild ducks. at the bottom a turkey. in the middle jellies or lemon posset. for the four corners. lobster and tarts, cream curds, stew'd pears or preserv'd quinces. for _february_. _first course_. at the top a soop remove. at the bottom salmon or stew'd breast of veal. for the four corners. a couple of fowls with oyster sauce, pudding, mutton cutlets, a fricassy of pig's ears. _second course_. at the top partridges. at the bottom a couple of ducks. for the four corners. stew'd apples, preserv'd quinces, custards, almond cheese cakes. in the middle jellies. for _march_. _first course_. at the top a boil'd turkey, with oyster sauce. at the bottom a couple of roast tongues or roast beef. in the middle pickles. two side-dishes, a pigeon pie and calf head hash. for the four corners. stew'd crab or oysters, hunters pudding, a brown fricassy, stew'd eels, or broil'd whitings. _second course_. at the top woodcocks or wild ducks. at the bottom pig or hare. in the middle jellies or sweetmeats. for the four corners. raspberry cream, tarts, stew'd apples, and preserv'd apricocks. for _april_. _first course_. at the top stew'd fillet of veal. at the bottom a roast leg of mutton. two side-dishes, salt fish and beef-steaks. in the middle a hunters pudding. _second course_. at the top roast chickens and asparagus. at the bottom ducks. in the middle preserv'd oranges. for the four corners. damasin pie, cream curds, lobster, and cold pot. for _may_. _first course_. at the top stew'd carp or tench. at the bottom a stew'd rump of beef. in the middle a sallet. for the four corners a fricassy of tripes, boil'd chickens, a pudding, olives of veal. _second course_. at the top rabbits or turkey pouts. at the bottom green goose or young ducks. for the four corners. lemon cream, quince cream, tarts, almond custards. in the middle jellies. for _june_. _first course_. at the top roast pike. at the bottom scotch collops. in the middle stew'd crab. for the four corners. boil'd chickens, quaking pudding, roast tongue, with venison sauce, beans and bacon. _second course_. at the top a turkey. at the bottom ducks or rabbits. in the middle strawberries. two side dishes, roast lobster and pease. for the four corners. green codlings, apricock custard, sweetmeat tarts, preserv'd damsins, or flummery. for _july_. _first course_. at the top green pease soop, remove stew'd breast of veal white. at the bottom a haunch of venison. in the middle a pudding. two side-dishes, a dish of fish, and a fricassy of rabbits. _second course_. at the top partridges or pheasants. at the bottom ducks or turkey. in the middle a dish of fruit. for the four corners. solomon gundie, lobster, tarts, chocolate cream. for _august_. _first course_. at the top fish. at the bottom venison pasty. in the middle herb dumplings. for the four corners. fricassy of rabbits, stew'd pigeons, boil'd chickens, fricassy of veal sweetbreads with artichoke bottoms. _second course_. at the top pheasants or partridges. at the bottom wild ducks or teal. in the middle jellies or syllabubs. for the four corners. preserv'd apricocks, almond cheese-cakes, custards, and sturgeon. for _september_. _first course_. at the top collar'd calf head, with stew'd pallets and veal sweetbreads, and forc'd meat-balls. at the bottom udder and tongue or a haunch of venison in the middle an ambler of cockles, or roast lobster. two side dishes, pigeon pie and boiled chickens. _second course_. at the top a roast pheasant. at the bottom a turkey. for the four corners. partridges, artichoke-bottoms fry'd, oyster loaves, and teal. for _october_. _first course_. at the top stew'd tench and cod's head. at the bottom roast pork or a goose. two side-dishes, roast fish, and boil'd fowl and bacon. for the four corners. jugg'd pigeons, mutton collops, beef rolls, and veal sweetbreads fricassy'd. in the middle minc'd pies or oyster loaves. _second course_. at the top wild fowl. at the bottom a hare. in the middle jellies. two side-dishes, roasted lobster and fry'd cream. for the four corners. preserv'd quinces, or stew'd pears, sturgeon, cold tongue, and orange cheese cakes. for _november_. _first course_. at the top a dish of fish. at the bottom a turkey pie. two side-dishes, scotch collops, and boil'd tongue with sprouts. in the middle scallop'd oysters. _second course_. at the top a dish of wild fowl. at the bottom roast lobster. in the middle lemon cream. for the four corners. tarts, curds, apricocks, and solomon gundie. for _december_. _first course_. at the bottom boil'd fowls. two side dishes, bacon and greens, and a dish of scotch collops. in the middle minc'd pies or pudding. _second course_. at the top a turkey. in the middle hot apple pie. for the four corners. custard, raspberry cream, cold pot and crabs. a supper for _january_. at the top a dish of plumb gruel. remove, boil'd fowls. at the bottom a dish of scotch collops. in the middle jellies. for the four corners. lobster, solomon-gundie, custard, tarts. for _february_. at the top a dish of fish. remove, a couple of roasted fowls. at the bottom wild ducks. for the four corners. collar'd pig, cheese cakes, stew'd apples and curds. in the middle hot minc'd pies. for _march_. at the top a sack posset. remove, a couple of ducks. at the bottom a boil'd turkey, with oyster sauce. in the middle lemon posset. two side-dishes, roasted lobster, oyster pie. for the four corners. almond custards, flummery, cheese-cakes, and stew'd apples. for _april_. at the top boiled chickens. at the bottom a breast of veal. in the middle jellies. for the four corners. orange pudding, custards, tarts, and stew'd oysters. for _may_. at the top a dish of fish. at the bottom lamb steakes or mutton. in the middle lemon cream or jellies. two side-dishes, tarts, raspberry cream. for the four corners. veal sweetbreads, stew'd spinage, with potched eggs and bacon, oysters in scallop'd shells, boiled chickens. for _june_. at the top boil'd chickens. at the bottom a tongue. in the middle lemon posset. for the four corners. cream curds or custards, potted ducks, tarts, lobsters, artichokes or pease. for _july_. at the top scotch collops. at the bottom roast chickens. in the middle stew'd mushrooms. for the four corners. custards, lobsters, split tongue, and solomon gundie. for _august_. at the top stewed breast of veal. at the bottom roast turkey. in the middle pickles or fruit. for the four corners. cheese cakes and flummery, preserved apricocks, preserved quinces. for _september_. at the top boil'd chickens. at the bottom a carbonated breast of mutton, with caper sauce. in the middle oysters in scallop shells, or stew'd oysters. two side dishes, hot apple pie and custard. for _october_. at the top rice gruel. remove, a couple of ducks. at the bottom a boil'd turkey with oyster sauce. in the middle jellies. for the four corners. lobster or crab, black caps, custard or cream, tarts or collar'd pig. for _november_. at the top fish. at the bottom ducks or teal. in the middle oyster loaves. remove, a dish of fruit. two side dishes, minc'd pies, mutton steaks, with mushrooms and balls. for _december_. at the top boil'd chickens. at the bottom a dish of scotch collops or veal cutlets. in the middle brawn. remove, tarts for the four corners. boil'd whitings or fry'd soles, new college puddings, tullouy sausages, scotch custard. [illustration: _a_ supper in _summer_. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1. boil'd chickens. 2. preserv'd oranges or apricocks. 3. flummery. 4. asparagus. 5. lemon posset. 6. roast lobster. 7. stew'd apples. 8. almond cheese cakes. 9. lamb.] [illustration: _a_ dinner in _summer_. 1 2 3 4 5 1. cod's head or salmon. 2. boil'd chickens. 3. a fine pudding or roasted lobster. 4. beans and bacon. 5. stew'd breast of veal.] [illustration: second course. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1. two young turkeys or ducklings. 2. stew'd apples. 3. custards. 4. jellies or lemon posset. 5. tarts. 6. preserv'd oysters. 7. green geese or young rabbits.] [illustration: _a_ dinner in _winter_. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1. a soop. 2. scotch collops. 3. boil'd chickens. 4. stew'd oysters or roasted lobster. 5. a hunters pudding. 6. roasted tongue. 7. a ham or roast beef. remove. 1 fish.] [illustration: second course 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1. a turkey. 2. almond cheesecakes. 3. sturgeon. 4. partridges. 5. jellies. 6. a hare or woodcocks. 7. collar'd cream. 8. cream curds. 9. ducks or pig.] [illustration: _a_ supper in _winter_. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 1. gruel or sack posset. 2. tarts. 3. lobster. 4. jellies or lemon cream. 5. solomon gundie. 6. custards. 7. boil'd turkey with oyster sauce. remove. 1. wild duck.] [illustration: _a_ dinner in _summer_. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 1. craw fish soop. 2. moor game. 3. a granade. 4. apples stew'd green. 5. boil'd partridge. 6. cherries. 7. stew'd sweetbreads, and pallets. 8. jellies or pine-apples. 9. roast teal. 10. apricocks. 11. artichokes. 12. sweet-meat tarts. 13. fry'd soals. 14. turkey pout roasted and larded. 15. a haunch of venison.] [illustration: _a_ grand table in _winter_. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 1. vermicelly soop. 2. sweet patties. 3. a fricassy of beast patties. 4. stew'd crab. 5. olives of veal. 6. preserv'd damsins. 7. preserv'd oranges. 8. marinaded pigeons. 9. a boil'd turkey with oyster sauce. 10. cream curds. 11. a pyramid of dry'd sweetmeats. 12. flummery. 13. a ham. 14. a white fricassy of chickens. 15. preserv'd apricocks. 16. preserv'd quinces. 17. a brown fricassy of rabbits. 18. a fricassy of veal sweetmeats. 19. minc'd pies. 20. oyster loaves. 21. haunce of venison, or roast beef. remove. 1. carp with pheasant. remove. 2. grapes. remove. 3. collar'd beef. remove. 4. cheese-cakes. remove. 5. quails. remove. 8. teal. remove. 9. two roasted lobsters. remove. 13. woodcocks or partridges. remove. 14. artichokes or young peas. remove. 17. snipes. remove. 18. tarts. remove. 19. collar'd pig. remove. 20. fruit. remove. 21. wild ducks.] index. those mark'd [thus +] are in the supplement. _a almond posset to make ----cakes, do. ----cheese cakes do. + ----do another way ----puffs do. ----butter do. + ----do. another way ----flummery do + ----biskets amblet of cockles, do. apple dumplins, do. ----to stew ----another way artichoke bottoms to fry ----to fricassy + ----to dry apricock pudding to make + ----jumballs do. ----custard do. ----chips or peaches do. ----to preserve ----to make marmalade ----to dry ----do like prunella's ----to preserve green ----do. another way ale orange to make + ----bad into strong beer ----posset, to make asparagus, or green pease to keep. angelico, to candy b beef, brisket to stew ----rump, do. beef olives, to make ----rolls, do. ----rump, to ragoo ----collar'd to eat cold ----dutch to make ----to pot ----steaks to fry ----do. another way berries to bottle brain cakes to make black caps, to make brandy orange to make + ----lemon do. + lemon do. another way ----black cherry, do. ----raspberry, do. ----ratisie, do. + ----do. another way brockly, to boil beast kidneys, to roast beans kidneys to keep buttons mushrooms, to pickle barberries to keep instead of preserving + ----cakes + ----drops ----preserving ----to pickle ----to preserve for tarts ----to keep all the year barley sugar, to make + black paper to make for drawing patterns c cabbage, to pickle cake caraway to make + ----rich white plumb cake + cake + cake, ising for ----great, do. ----ising for it ----bisket, to make ----raspberry cakes cake portugal, do. ----orange, do. ----shrewsbury, do. + ----bath ----gingerbread, do. ----seed, do. ----queen, do. ----king, do. ----angelico, do. + ----oatmeal, do. ----breakfast, do. ----fine, do. ----to keep all the year ----plumb, do. ----little plumb, do. ----plumb another way ----do. ordinary calf's head collar'd to eat hot ----do. to eat cold ----hash'd ----do. white ----pye of, to make ----do. another way ----to ragoo ----to roast, to eat like pig ----feet to fricassy white ----to fry in butter ----do. in eggs ----to make minc'd pies of ----to make pie of ----jelly, to make ----flummery, do. + chars to pot catchup to make + ----walnut do. + ----fine do. cheese cakes do. ----lemon, do. ----common do. ----without currans do. cheese slipcoat, to make + ----fine rush ----bullies, do. ----cream, do. cherries, to preserve for drying ----to preserve ----to dry colliflower to pickle white ----another way chickens to fricassy white ----do brown ----surprize ----to boil + ----pie hot collops scotch, to make ----another way ----another way collops minc'd, to make cod's head, to dress ----zoons, do. cockles, to pickle cordial water of cowslips, to make cowslip syrup, do. cracknels, do. cream lemon, do. ----do. to make yellow ----do. another way ----orange ----quince ----any preserv'd fruit + cream burnt ----to fry to eat hot ----chocolate to make ----gooseberry, do. ----apple, do. ----curds, do. ----rice or almond do. cucumbers, to pickle ----another way ----to make mange of ----to make pickle for ----to stew ----to fry for mutton sauce ----soop to make curranberries, to pickle ----to preserve in bunches + ----to preserve whole ----to make jelly of custard almond ----sagoo ----scotch, to eat hot cyder, to make d damsins to preserve ----do. for tarts ----do. to keep ----do. bottle drops ratisie, to make ----lemon, do. ducks to boil ----to stew ----do. to stew whole dumplings herb, to make ----plain fruits ----apple e eels to collar ----to stew ----to pitchcock ----pie, to make eggs to fricassy white ----do. brown ----to stew in gravy ----pie, to make elder buds, to pickle ----to make pickle for f fowl, to force + ----feet fritters fruit to make ----apple, do. ----oatmeal, do. fruit to preserve green ----do. all the year french bread to make + another way g girkins, to pickle gilliflowers, do. + ginger to candy gingerbread white + ----york + ----in little tins ----red ----another way gooseberry cake ----to bottle ----to preserve ----do. red + granade + grapes to preserve all winter + ----another way gruel sagoo ----plumb ----rice goofer wafers to make h hams or tongues to salt hare, to stew ----to pot ----to jugg ----to roast with a pudding in the belly hedge hogs cupid, to make ----almond herrings to boil ----to fry ----to pickle ----to keep all the year hotch potch, to make j jam cherry to make ----bullies, do. ----damsins, do. + jelly brown + jelly curran jambals, do. ----another way l lamb leg of, boiled with loyn fry'd + larks in jelly lamb with chickens boil'd ----fricassy white ----fricassy brown lobster or crab to roast + ----a l'italienne ----to butter leatch, to make loaves oyster, do. m macaroons, to make mango of codlins + mellon, do. mead strong, do. ----another way + ----another way milk mull'd, a dish of mulberries, to preserve whole muscles, to pickle, mushrooms, to pot ----to stew ----to pickle ----another way ----another way ----to fry ----powder to make mutton stew'd fillet of ----shoulder forced ----breast to collar ----do. another way ----do. to carbonade mutton chine roasted, with sallery ----chops, to make ----leg forc'd ----french cutlets to make ----steads to fry ----artificial venison, to make ----leg of, to salt to eat like ham n neat's tongue pie, to make nasturtian buds to pickle o onions to pickle orange chips to preserve to put into glasses ----or lemons to preserve ----chips another way ----marmalade to make ----to preserve oranges whole + ----to candy whole ----tarts, to make oysters scotch to make ----to stew + ----to lard ----to fry ----to scallop ----to pickle + ox lips to dress p pallets stew'd pancakes, clare ----rice + partridges, to pot + do. another way parsnips to fry to look like trout + poverade, to make parsnips, another way paste to make for a standing pie ----for tarts ----do. another way ----do. do. ----for venison pasty ----of pippens, white ----of do. green ----of do. red patties savoury to make ----sweet pears to dry pears or pippens to dry without sugar pigeons to make a pulpatoon ----to stew ----to pot ----boil'd with fricassy sauce ----marmonaded ----to jugg ----to pickle ----to broil whole pig royal to make ----to collar ----ears to fricassy ----like lamb in winter ----head roll'd, to eat like brown pike to eat like sturgeon ----to stew ----to roast with a pudding in the belly plumbs to preserve plumb porridge to make pork to pickle posset sack to make ----another way ----to make froth for ----lemon potatoe crabs to pickle pudding black to make ----custard ----orange ----do. another way ----do. another way ----do. another way do. another way + ----lemon another way ----oatmeal do. + almond pudding + do. another way ----apple do. ----ground rice do. ----gooseberry do. ----collage do. ----potatoe + ----do. another way ----carrot + ----carrot another way ----quaking to make ----do. another way ----do. do. ----sagoo ----pearl barley ----calf's foot ----hunting + ----do another way ----liver ----for hare ----herb + ----white pot another way ----curd ----white in skins ----marrow ----bread ----colliflower punch milk, to make ----another way ----do. ----do. ----acid for to make purslain to pickle pie rich to make pie eel pie turbot-head ----herring ----orange ----ham ----woodcock ----sweet chicken ----savoury do. ----sweet veal ----candle for ----hare ----another way ----minc'd ----another way ----oyster ----codlim pickle for salmon q quidenny to make ----quinces to preserve ----do. another way ----cream to make ----to make white ----marmalade to make r rabbets to fricassy brown ----do. white ----pull'd ----dressed, to look like moor game raspberry and strawberry fool, to make s salmon, to collar + salmon en maigre ----to pot sprouts savry to boil ----cabbage, do. sauce for a rump of beef sauce for neck of veal ----for turkey ----for boil'd rabbits ----for pike sauce for boil'd salmon or turbot ----for haddock or cod ----for salmon or turbot ----for tame ducks ----for green goose ----another way ----for chickens ----for turkey, another way ----for tongues ----for cod's head ----for a cod's head another way ----for flesh or fish soop vermicelly ----hare ----green pease ----onion ----do. pease in winter ----do. in lent ----craw fish + ----white or almond ----scotch ----do without water sausages pollony to make + sheep rumps with rice + ----tongues broil'd shrimps to pickle shrub orange solomon gundie to eat in lent ----another way smelts to pot ----to pickle spinage stew'd with eggs spinage toasts to make sturgeon artificial to make ----how to order sturgeon how to make pickle for sugar to know when candy height syllabubs whip'd to make syrup of gilliflowers to make ----of mulberries ----of violets + ----of poppies stock to make for hartshorn jelly sack posset to make shell paste do. stuffing for beast kidney t tansey to make ----another way ----do. ----boil'd tarts marrow to make ----transparent ----sweetmeat toasts fry'd to make tongues to roast ----to pot ----sheep or hog, to broil tripes to fricassy ----to eat like chickens trout, or other fish to fry trench or carp to stew + mock turtle turkey to boil ----to roast ----to pot ----a-la daube v veal breast of, to brown ragoo ----do. berries ----to roll ----to stew ----to stew fillet ----breast of, to roll ----to make savoury ----to roast savoury + ----couley ----knuckles, to boil ----sweetbreads to fricassy ----cutlets to make ----another way ----do. venison to pot ----haunch of, to roast vinegar, to make of gooseberries ----another way ----do + ----do. w walnuts, to pickle green ----do. black ----to make pickle for ----do. white whigs to make wild fowl to pot wine elder to make ----do. flower ----gooseberry ----another way wine_ proofreading team, from scans from biblioteca de la universitat de barcelona the queene-like closet or rich cabinet [illustration] printed for rich: lownes white lion in duck layne neare west smithfield the queen-like closet or rich cabinet: stored with all manner of rare receipts for _preserving, candying and cookery_. very pleasant and beneficial to all ingenious persons of the female sex. by hannah wolley. the second edition. london printed for _richard lowndes_ at the _white lion_ in _duck-lane_, near _west-smithfield_, 1672. to the truly vertuous and my much honoured friend mrs. _grace buzby_, daughter to the late _sr. henry cary_, knight banneret; and wife to mr. _robert buzby_, gentleman, and wollen draper of london _madam_, your kind and good acceptance of my endeavours in work for you, and that esteem you have for what else i can do, make me bold to present this book to you; which by that time you have perused, i doubt not but you will deem it worthy of the title it bears; and indeed it was never opened before: if it may yield you any delight or benefit, i shall be glad; for as you have a true love and esteem for me, so i have a very great love and honourable esteem for you; and shall always be _your most observant servant_, _hannah wolley._ to all ladies, gentlewomen, and to all other of the female sex who do delight in, or be desirous of good accomplishments. ladies and gentlewomen, _i presume those bookes which have passed from me formerly, have got me some little credit and esteem amongst you. but there being so much time past since they were printed, that methinks, i hear some of you say_ i wish mrs. _wolley_ would put forth some new experiments _and to say the truth, i have been importun'd by divers of my friends and acquaintance to do so._ _i shall not give an apish example every day or week to follow ridiculous and foolish fancies, nor could i be too like the_ spaniard, _always to keep in one dress: i am not ashamed, nor do i disown what i have already printed, but some of you being so perfect in your practises, and i very desirous still to serve you, do now present you with this_ queen-like closet: _i do assure you it is worthy of the title it bears, for the very precious things you will find in it._ _thus beseeching your kind acceptance of this book, and of my earnest desires to you, i take my leave, but shall always be to all who have esteem for me,_ their faithful and humble servant, hannah wolley. _ladies, i do here present you (yet) that which sure will well content a queen-like closet rich and brave (such) not many ladies have: or cabinet, in which doth set jems richer than in karkanet; (they) only eies and fancies please, these keep your bodies in good ease; they please the taste, also the eye; would i might be a stander by: yet rather i would wish to eat, since 'bout them i my brains do beat: and 'tis but reason you may say, if that i come within your way; i sit here sad while you are merry, eating dainties, drinking perry; but i'm content you should so feed, so i may have to serve my deed._ _hannah wolley._ these things following are sold by _richard lowndes_ book-seller, at the _white-lion_ in _duck-lane_ near _west-smithfield_. a cordial powder, which doth infallibly cure the _rickets_ in children, and causeth an easie production of teeth. dr. _lionel lockyer_'s universal pill, curing any disease curable by physick; it operates gently and safely, it being very amicable to nature in purifying the whole body throughout, and then subduing all diseases, whether internal or external, as hath been experimented by persons of all sorts and sexes, both young and old, with admirable success. mr. _matthew_ his diaphoretick and diuretick pill, purging by sweat and urine: this pill being composed of simples of a very powerful operation, purged from their churlish and malignant quality by an excellent balsam of long preparation, is by it made so amicable to nature, that it hath upon ample experience been found effectual for curing all common diseases. mr. _edmund buckworth's_ famous lozenges, for the cure of consumptions, catarrhs, asthma's, phtisick, and all other diseases incident to the lungs, colds new and old, hoarsness, shortness of breath, and stuffings of the stomach; also a sovereign antidote against the plague, and all other contagious diseases. the famous spirit of salt of the world, well known for a sovereign remedy against most diseases; truly and only prepared by _constantine rhodocanaces_, grecian, one of his majesties chymists. the queen-like closet, or rich cabinet. 1. _to make_ aqua mirabilis _a very delicate way._ take three pints of sack, three pints of white wine, one quart of the spirit of wine, one quart of the juice of celandine leaves, of melilot-flowers, cardamum-seeds, cubebs, galingale, nutmegs, cloves, mace, ginger, two drams of each; bruise them, and mix them with the wine and spirits, let it stand all night in the still, not an alembeck, but a common still, close stopped with rye paste; the next morning make a slow fire in the still, and all the while it is stilling, keep a wet cloth about the neck of the still, and put so much white sugar candy as you think fit into the glass where it drops. 2. _the plague-water which was most esteemed of in the late great visitation._ take three pints of muskadine, boil therein one handful of sage, and one handful of rue until a pint be wasted, then strain it out, and set it over the fire again. put thereto a penniworth of long pepper, half an ounce of ginger, and a quarter of an ounce of nutmegs, all beaten together, boil them together a little while close covered, then put to it one penniworth of mithridate, two penniworth of venice treacle, one quarter of a pint of hot angelica water. take one spoonful at a time, morning and evening always warm, if you be already diseased; if not, once a day is sufficient all the plague time. it is most excellent medicine, and never faileth, if taken before the heart be utterly mortified with the disease, it is also good for the small pox, measles, or surfets. 3. _a very soveraign water._ take one gallon of good claret wine, then take ginger, galingale, cinnamon, nutmegs, grains, cloves, anniseeds, fennel-seeds, caraway-seeds, of each one dram; then take sage, mint, red-rose leaves, thyme, pellitory of the wall, rosemary, wild thyme, camomile, lavander, of each one handful, bruise the spices small and beat the herbs, and put them into the wine, and so let stand twelve hours close covered, stirring it divers times, then still it in an alembeck, and keep the best water by it self, and so keep every water by it self; the first you may use for aged people, the other for younger. this most excellent water was from dr. _chambers_, which he kept secret till he had done many cures therewith; it comforteth the vital spirits; it helpeth the inward diseases that come of cold; the shaking of the palsie; it helpeth the conception of women that are barren; it killeth the worms within the body, helpeth the stone within the bladder; it cureth the cold, cough, and tooth-ach, and comforteth the stomach; it cureth the dropsie, and cleanseth the reins; it helpeth speedily the stinking breath; whosoever useth this water, it preserveth them in good health, and maketh seem young very long; for it comforteth nature very much; with this water dr. _chambers_ preserved his own life till extreme age would suffer him neither to go nor stand one whit, and he continued five years after all physicians judged he could not live; and he confessed that when he was sick at any time, he never used any other remedy but this water, and wished his friends when he lay upon his deth-bed to make use of it for the preservation of their health. 4. _to make spirit of mints._ take three pints of the best white wine, three handfuls of right spear mint picked clean from the stalks, let it steep in the wine one night covered, in the morning, put it into a copper alembeck, and draw it with a pretty quick fire; and when you have drawn it all, take all your water and add as much wine as before, and put to the water, and the same quantity of mint as before; let it steep two or three hours, then put all into your still, and draw it with a soft fire, put into your receiver a quantity of loaf sugar, and you will find it very excellent; you may distil it in an ordinary still if you please; but then it will not be so strong nor effectual. thus you may do with any other herbs whatsoever. 5. _to make the cordial orange-water._ take one dozen and a half of the highest coloured and thick rin'd oranges, slice them thin, and put them into two pints of malago sack, and one pint of the best brandy, of cinamon, nutmegs, ginger, cloves, and mace, of each one quarter of an ounce bruised, of spear-mint and balm one handful of each, put them into an ordinary still all night, pasted up with rye paste; the next day draw them with a slow fire, and keep a wet cloth upon the neck of the still; put in some loaf sugar into the glass where it dropeth. 6. _to make spirit of oranges or of limons._ take of the thickest rin'd oranges or limons, and chip off the rinds very thin, put these chips into a glass-bottle, and put in as many as the glass will hold, then put in as much malago sack as the glass will hold besides; stop the bottle close that no air get in, and when you use it, take about half a spoonful in a glass of sack; it is very good for the wind in the stomach. 7. _to make limon water._ take twelve of the fairest limons, slice them, and put them into two pints of white wine, and put to them of cinamon and galingale, of each, one quarter of an ounce, of red rose leaves, burrage and bugloss flowers, of each one handful, of yellow sanders one dram, steep all these together 12 hours, then distil them gently in a glass still, put into the glass where it droppeth, three ounces of sugar, and one grain of amber-greece. 8. _a water for fainting of the heart._ take of bugloss water and red rose water, of each one pint, of red cows milk half a pint, anni-seed and cinamon of each half an ounce bruised, maiden hair two handfuls, harts-tongue one handful, bruise them, and mix all these together, and distil them in an ordinary still, drink of it morning and evening with a little sugar. 9. _to make rosemary water._ take a quart of sack or white wine with as many rosemary flowers as will make it very thick, two nutmegs, and two races of ginger sliced thin into it; let it infuse all night, then distil it in an ordinary still as your other waters. 10. _to make a most precious water._ take two quarts of brandy, of balm, of wood-betony, of pellitory of the wall, of sweet marjoram, of cowslip-flowers, rosemary-flowers, sage-flowers, marigold-flowers, of each of these one handful bruised together; then take one ounce of gromwell seeds, one ounce of sweet fennel seeds, one ounce of coriander seeds bruised, also half an ounce of aniseeds and half an ounce of caraway-seeds, half an ounce of juniper berries, half an ounce of bay berries, one ounce of green licoras, three nutmegs, one quarter of an ounce of large mace, one quarter of an ounce of cinamon, one quarter of an ounce of cloves, half an ounce of ginge