transcriber's note: most of this book is set with a hanging indent that has not been retained in the text version. punctuation, hyphenation and spelling have not been modernized. however, the oe ligature has been represented by [oe] in the word "[oe]illet."] étoile dorée in tatting by m^lle. riego. golden stars in tatting and crochet. by mlle. riego de la branchardière. price one shilling. london: simpkin, marshall, and co., and all berlin warehouses. entered at stationers' hall.] 1861. [the right of translation is reserved. notice. these designs are registered under the 5th & 6th vic. c. 100, and the public are hereby cautioned against making any of them for the purpose of sale, without permission from the authoress. any person infringing upon the copyright will be proceeded against, and, by sect. 8, they are liable to a penalty of from £5 to £30 for each offence. 1, princes street, cavendish square. étoile dorée. rules and explanation of terms. the following designs are formed by a very simple combination of tatting and crochet, the more elaborate style of both works being avoided, so that any lady with a knowledge of the first rules of each art will be able to accomplish the patterns without the least difficulty, the stars and diamonds being made in tatting and afterwards worked round with loops of chain crochet. the numerous purposes to which the work can be applied far exceed the limits of this book, as it admits of being made in every material. the stars have a good effect for spotting and trimming dresses, and, when worked in black or white silk, are suitable for cloak and bonnet trimmings. for antimacassars and doyleys, white and colored cotton can be substituted for the gold and wool; most of the designs are adapted for church needlework. the gold tatting twine can be obtained in two qualities; the least expensive should be used for doyleys and antimacassars, but for church needlework, or collars and sleeves, the better make is most suited. the new tatting silk is a substitute for the gold, and is made in two sizes, no. 1 being the coarser. in these designs the knots should be made on the right side of the work, the reverse side having the best effect. "to commence," in crochet--put the needle into a stitch or pearl loop, and, leaving an end, bring the wool through in a loop. "to join," in crochet--take the needle out of the loop, put it into the stitch to be joined, and bring the loop through this stitch, always joining to the centre of a loop of chain. tatting. the stars and diamonds. for which a shuttle and ring and pin will be required. the shuttle is to be filled with the materials as directed. "a pearl loop," in tatting--turn the thread which forms the foundation loop over the pin and continue the stitches. "a double stitch," in tatting--is formed by a single and a reverse stitch worked alternately. octagon star--commence a loop, work 1 double stitch, then (1 pearl and 2 double stitches alternately 7 times), 1 pearl, 1 double, draw the loop quite close, place the two ends together, knot them firmly and cut off the ends; it is better to knot the gold twice to make it very secure. sexagon star--commence a loop, work 1 double, then (1 pearl and 2 double 5 times), 1 pearl, 1 double; draw close &c. as for the previous star. the diamond 1st oval--commence a loop, work 4 double stitches, then 1 pearl, 2 double, 1 pearl, 2 double, 1 pearl, 4 double; draw quite close, and work 3 ovals more the same, commencing them close to the last; and to fasten off firmly, pass the first end through the last oval, and then through the other three; knot the two ends together. the zephyr sleeve. design no. 1. _materials--2 skeins of extra coarse gold-colored netting silk, or gold twine; 2 skeins of cerise ordinary coarse silk; walker's penelope crochet needle no 3-1/2; a shuttle; ring and pin no. 3. andalusian wool and tatting silk can be used if preferred._ the foundation of the sleeve in the engraving is of tulle or brussels net, made up into puffs, but the style can be varied according to the dress, and the work without the net is suited for cuffs to tight sleeves. the stars. with the gold silk or twine make 20 octagon stars as page 4. the wristband, 1st star--take one of the gold stars and with the cerise silk and crochet needle commence in one of the pearl loops of it, work 9 chain and 1 plain in each of the 8 pearl loops, fasten off, knotting the ends together. 2nd star--commence in a pearl loop of another gold star, work (9 chain and 1 plain in a pearl loop as before, 6 times), then 5 chain, join to the centre of the 4th loop of chain of the 1st star, 4 chain, 1 plain in the next pearl, 5 chain, join to the next loop of the 1st star, 4 chain, 1 plain in the next pearl, and fasten off. work 6 stars more the same as the last, which finishes the band. the large star--work as the 1st star, but at the end of the round instead of fastening off work 4 single on the first loop of chain, then (10 chain, miss 9 and 1 plain in the 9 chain of the 1st round, 6 times), 5 chain, join to the centre of the 2nd loop of chain of the last star of the band, 5 chain, miss 9, 1 plain as before, 5 chain, join to the next loop of the 1st star, 5 chain, miss 9, 1 plain, and fasten off. work 3 stars more the same, joining them to every other star of the wristband. work the 8 remaining stars the same as the 1st, and sew them separately to the net. the zephyr collar. design no. 2. _materials--the same as previous sleeve._ work 9 stars the same as the 1st star in the preceding direction; and for the band--with the gold make a crochet chain of about 14 inches, turn, and along the chain work a row of 1 chain, miss 1, and 1 treble. fasten off. the collar is formed by doubling the net and drawing it into a narrow band to shape it. the stars and band are then to be tacked on. zouave sleeve. design no. 3. _materials--2 skeins of coarse gold-colored netting silk, or gold twine; 2 skeins of black or colored ordinary size silk; walker's penelope crochet needle, no. 3-1/2; a shuttle; ring and pin no. 3. andalusian wool and tatting silk no. 2 can be used._ the foundation of the sleeve is of tulle or brussels net. the wristband. in tatting. 1st [oe]illet--fill the shuttle with the gold silk or twine and commence a loop, work 2 double stitches, then (1 pearl and 2 double 3 times), draw the loop quite close; and for the 2nd [oe]illet--commence a loop half an inch from the last and work 2 double, then join to the last pearl loop, work 2 double, 1 pearl, 2 double, 1 pearl, 2 double, draw close. join to the silk left between the [oe]illets, which will keep it firm; and there will now be about a quarter of an inch between the [oe]illets, which is just sufficient to keep the work straight, repeat the 2nd [oe]illet until there are 21, then leave a quarter of an inch of silk and join to the last pearl, leave another quarter and join to the next pearl, which is the centre one of the [oe]illet. turn the work and join to the centre pearl loop of each [oe]illet, leaving a quarter of an inch between to make a straight line to correspond with the first side. fasten off. with the black or colored silk and crochet needle commence in one of the spaces of gold left between the [oe]illets, work 5 chain and 1 plain in the centre pearl loop of the next [oe]illet, 5 chain, 1 plain in the next space; repeat round both sides of the band and fasten off. in the first side the plain stitch must be worked in the joining stitch at the end of the [oe]illet. the stars and diamonds. with the gold make 8 octagon stars and 8 diamonds as page 4. 1st diamond--take one of the gold diamonds and with the black silk and crochet needle commence in the centre pearl loop of one of the ovals, + work 4 chain, 1 plain in the next pearl, 9 chain, 1 plain in the same pearl as the last plain. repeat from + 10 times more. then 4 chain, 1 plain in the 1st pearl, 5 chain, take the wristband and join to the centre of the 1st loop of chain of it, 5 chain, 1 plain. fasten off. 2nd diamond--the same as the last, joining it to the 12th loop of chain of the band. work 2 diamonds more the same, always leaving 11 loops of the band between them. 1st star--take a gold star and with the black silk commence in a pearl loop of it, work 8 chain and 1 plain in each of the 8 pearl loops, then 4 single on the first 4 chain, 10 chain, miss 8, 1 plain in the 10 chain, 5 chain, join to the 6th or centre loop of the band, between the diamonds, 5 chain, miss 8, 1 plain in the next 8 chain, then 10 chain, miss 8, 1 plain as before, 5 chain, join to the centre of the third 9 chain of the next diamond, 5 chain, miss 8, 1 plain as before, (10 chain, miss 8 and 1 plain, 3 times), 5 chain; join to the opposite 9 chain of the next diamond, 5 chain, 1 plain. fasten off. work three stars more the same, joining them between the diamonds. 5th star--work as the 1st star to the end of the 1st round, then (10 chain, miss 8 and 1 plain in the 8 chain, 7 times), 5 chain, join to the centre 9 chain of one of the diamonds opposite to the one joined to the band, then 5 chain, 1 plain; fasten off. 5th diamond--work as the 1st diamond, joining it to the centre of the 4th 10 chain of the last star. repeat the last star and diamond on each of the other three diamonds which are attached to the band. a collar to correspond can be made the same as no. 2. antimacassar, cushion, square doyley, etc. design no. 4. _materials--two shades of green, one of light mauve, and the gold, &c., according to the following directions:--_ for a doyley 7 inches square, use _single berlin wool and gold twine or gold-colored crochet silk; penelope needle no. 2; tatting pin no. 3, and a small shuttle_. for cushions, antimacassars, and couvre-pieds, use _double berlin wool; gold-colored wool or filoselle; steel penelope needle no. 0, or ivory no. 10 bell guage; tatting pin or mesh which measures no. 9, bell guage_. for dress and mantle trimmings, headdresses, &c., use _andalusian wool or netting silk; and gold twine or tatting silk no. 2; penelope needle no. 3; tatting pin, no. 2_. first stripe of diamonds. 1st diamond--with the gold twine or silk work a diamond as page 4; and for the 1st round--with the light green wool and crochet needle commence in one of the pearl loops of the diamond, work 4 chain and 1 plain in the next pearl; repeat 11 times more, and fasten off, always knotting the ends together. 2nd round--with the dark green commence in a loop of the light green, which is between the 2nd and 3rd pearls of one of the ovals, work 6 chain, miss 4 and 1 plain in the next 4 chain; repeat all round; fasten off. 2nd diamond--work as the 1st, but in the 2nd round make only 11 loops of chain, and for the 12th, work 3 chain, take the 1st diamond and join to the centre of the 6th loop of 3 chain, 1 plain; fasten off. work as the last diamond until the length required is made. the stars.--with the gold work an octagon star as page 4, then with the mauve wool and crochet needle commence in one of the pearl loops of the star, work (6 chain and 1 plain in each pearl, 4 times), and for the 5th loop, 3 chain; take the last diamond and join to the centre of the 2nd loop of it, 3 chain, 1 plain in the next pearl; work 3 loops more as the last, joining first to the 1st loop of the diamond, and then to the next two loops of the next diamond; fasten off. repeat this star between the diamonds. second stripe of diamonds. 1st diamond.--work a diamond as in the 1st stripe, but in the 2nd round make only 8 loops of chain, and for the 9th loop, 3 chain, join to the 3rd loop of the last diamond, 3 chain, 1 plain in the next loop of the 1st round; then work 2 loops more the same, joining to the next two loops of the star; and for the 12th loop, 6 chain, 1 plain, fasten off. 2nd diamond.--as the 1st, but in the 2nd round, make only 5 loops of chain, and for the 6th loop, 3 chain, join to the 12th loop of the last diamond, 3 chain, 1 plain as before; work 5 loops more as the last, joining them to the next 2 loops of the star, then to the next loop of the diamond of the 1st stripe, and then to the next 2 loops of the 2nd star; 6 chain, 1 plain; fasten off. repeat the last diamond to the end of the stripe. then work the stars and the 2nd stripe of diamonds until the width is made. the edge, (tatting).--fill the shuttle with gold, keep the work on the wrong side and commence in a loop of one of the diamonds to the left of the one already joined, and for a + small [oe]illet, commence a loop, work 5 double stitches, draw it close; then join to the next loop of the next diamond, and for the large [oe]illet commence a loop, work 2 double, then (1 pearl and 2 double 5 times), draw it nearly close, and join to the next loop of the diamond. work 3 large [oe]illets more the same, joining after each; then repeat from + all round. at the corners it will require 7 large [oe]illets. antimacassar, cushion, square doyley, etc. design no. 5. _colours--azoff blue, black or white, and 2 shades of magenta wool; the gold and other materials the same as no. 4._ the diamonds. 1st diamond--with the gold twine or silk work a diamond as page 4, and for the 1st round--with the light magenta wool and crochet needle commence in one of the pearl loops of the diamond, work 4 chain and 1 plain in the next pearl; repeat 11 times more, and fasten off, always knotting the ends together. 2nd round--with the dark magenta commence in one of the loops of the 1st round, work 6 chain, miss 4, 1 plain in the next loop; repeat all round and fasten off. work as many more diamonds as required for the size. the stars. with the gold make an octagon star, as page 4, and for the 1st round--with white or black wool commence in a pearl loop of the star, work 5 chain and 1 plain in each of the 8 pearl loops; fasten off. 2nd round--with blue wool commence in a loop of the last round, work 7 chain, miss 5 and 1 plain in the 5 chain; repeat all round and fasten off. work as many stars as will be required. the joining. 1st stripe--with the gold take a diamond and commence in a loop of chain over the centre of one of the ovals of it, + work 4 chain, 1 plain in the next loop of chain, then 1 chain; take a star and join to the centre of one of the blue loops of it, 1 chain, 1 plain in the same loop of the diamond as before, 4 chain, 1 plain in the next loop, 1 chain, join to the next loop of the star, 1 chain, 1 plain in the same loop as before, 4 chain, 1 plain in the next loop; take another diamond and work 1 plain in one of the loops over an oval of it; 4 chain, 1 plain in the next loop of the 2nd diamond, 1 chain, join to the next loop of the star, 1 chain, 1 plain in the same loop of the diamond as before, 4 chain, 1 plain in the next loop, 1 chain, join to the next loop of the star, 1 chain, 1 plain in the same loop as before, 4 chain, 1 plain in the next loop, 1 _chain_, 1 plain in the same loop as before. repeat from + until the length required is made, at the end omit the last 1 chain and 1 plain; and to form the 2nd stripe--take another diamond and work 1 plain in a loop over an oval of it, then repeat from + in the 1st stripe, making the first four joinings to the last blue star, and after the "1 _chain_" in italics, join to the 1 chain between the 2 plain of the opposite diamond of the 1st stripe; at the end of the stripe fasten off. 3rd stripe--is worked as the 1st stripe, commencing in the 6th loop of the last diamond counting from the last gold stitch, and continuing to the end of the 2nd stripe. the edging. 1st round--with the gold commence in a loop of chain of one of the diamonds, work 4 chain, miss 6 and 1 plain in the next loop; repeat all round, but where the diamonds join omit the 4 chain and work another plain stitch in the next loop. 2nd round, white or black--commence in the stitch between the diamonds, work 5 chain, miss 5, 1 plain in each loop of the 1st round, but between the diamonds omit the 5 chain, and work another plain in the next loop as before. 3rd round, blue--commence between the diamonds, 6 chain, miss 5 and 1 plain in the next loop, 6 chain, 1 plain in the same loop as the last; repeat all round, omitting the chain between the diamonds as before. fasten off. vandyke sleeve. design no. 6. _materials--2 skeins each of blue and gold-color netting silk; walker's penelope crochet needle no. 3-1/2. for the tatting, a shuttle, and ring and pin no. 3._ the foundation of the sleeve is composed of brussels net. the stars. with the gold make 19 stars as page 4. the wristband--with the blue silk work the same as the wristband in sleeve no. 1. the large stars--with the blue silk make 4 chain. take a gold star and work 1 plain in a pearl loop of it, then 7 chain and 1 plain in each of the 7 pearl loops, 3 chain, 1 single in the 1st stitch of the 4 chain, then (10 chain, miss 7 and 1 plain in the 7 chain, 6 times), 5 chain; take the band and join to the 1st loop of the 6th star of it, 5 chain, 1 plain as before, 5 chain, join to the next loop of the 5th star, 5 chain, 1 plain; fasten off. 2nd large star--work as the last, joining it to the 2nd and 1st loops of the 4th star. 3rd large star--as the last, joining it to the 1st loop of the 3rd star of the band, and then to the next loop of the 2nd star. 4th large star--as the last, but making only 5 loops of 10 chain; then 5 chain, join to the 2nd loop of the 1st large star, 5 chain. 1 plain as before, 10 chain, 1 plain, 5 chain, join to the 5th loop of the 2nd large star, 5 chain, 1 plain; fasten off. 5th large star--as the 4th, joining first to the 2nd loop of the 2nd large star, and then to the 5th loop of the 3rd large star. 6th large star--as the 4th joining it to the 4th and 5th large stars. work 5 small stars as the 1st star in the wristband, and tack them on the net as in the engraving. round doyley. design no. 7. _materials--2 shades of green single berlin wool, penelope needle, no. 2. for the stars, gold tatting twine, or a skein of crochet silk, tatting pin no. 3, and a small shuttle._ the stars. with the gold work 12 octagon stars as page 4. 1st star, 1st round--with the light green wool and crochet needle commence in a pearl loop of one of the stars, work 5 chain and 1 plain in each of the 8 pearl loops; fasten off. 2nd round--with the dark green commence in one of the light green loops, work (7 chain, miss 5 and 1 plain in the next loop 8 times); fasten off. work the other 11 gold stars the same. centre diamond--with the gold commence in the centre of the 1st loop of chain of one of the stars, work 4 chain, miss 6, 1 plain in the next loop; take another star, work 1 plain in the first loop of it, then 4 chain, 1 plain in the next loop; take a third star and work 1 plain in the 1st loop of it, 4 chain, 1 plain in the next loop; take a 4th star and work 1 plain in the 1st loop of it, 4 chain, 1 plain in the next loop, then join to the 1st stitch to make it round; fasten off. joining circle--with the gold commence in one of the loops of a 5th star, work (6 chain, miss 7 and 1 plain in the next loop 5 times), then 4 chain, miss 7, 1 plain in the next loop; take one of the four stars already joined and work 1 plain in the 7th loop of it, 4 chain, miss 7, 1 plain in the next loop of the 4th star, then 1 plain in the next loop of the next star of the four centre stars, 4 chain, miss 7, 1 plain in the next loop of the same star. take a 6th star and work 1 plain in a loop of it, 4 chain, 1 plain in the next loop of the 6th star, then missing the last 20 gold stitches join to the plain stitch after the 5th loop of the 5th star; then on the 6th star work (6 chain, miss 7 and 1 plain in the next loop, 5 times), 4 chain, miss 7, 1 plain in the next loop; then 1 plain in the next loop of the 4 centre stars, 4 chain, miss 7, 1 plain in the next loop; take another star and work 1 plain in a loop of it, 4 chain, miss 7, 1 plain in the next loop, then miss the last 15 gold stitches and join to the plain stitch after the 5th loop of the 6th star. repeat from the commencement of the circle, and fasten off. light green circle--commence in the 1st 6 chain of the gold circle, work 4 chain, miss 4, 1 plain in the next 6 chain, 4 chain, 1 plain in the same 6 chain as the last; repeat twice more; then 4 chain, miss 4, 1 plain, and between the stars miss 6, 1 plain in the next 6 chain; repeat from the commencement of the circle, and fasten off. dark green circle--commence in the 1st loop of the last circle, work (5 chain, miss 4 and 1 plain in the 4 chain 6 times), then between the stars miss 6, 1 plain in the next 4 chain; repeat all round, and fasten off. round doyley. design no. 8. _materials--white, mauve, and green single berlin wool; penelope needle no. 2. for the stars, gold tatting twine or a skein of crochet silk, tatting pin no. 3, and a small shuttle._ the stars. with the gold make 17 octagon stars as page 4. _the mauve centre star_--with the mauve wool and crochet needle commence in one of the pearl loops of a gold star, and to form a point, work 5 chain, turn, and on these 5 chain miss 2, 1 plain, 2 treble; then work 1 plain in the next pearl loop. repeat 7 times more, and fasten off on the right side of the crochet. 1st green star--commence in a pearl loop of another gold star, work 5 chain and 1 plain in the next pearl loops 7 times; then 3 chain, join to the top of one of the points of the centre star, 2 chain, 1 plain in the 1st pearl loop; fasten off. 1st white star--commence as before, work 5 chain and 1 plain in the next pearl loops, 5 times; 3 chain, join to the centre of the 2nd loop of the green star, 2 chain, 1 plain in the next pearl, 3 chain. join to the 1st loop of the green star, 2 chain. 1 plain in the next pearl, 3 chain, join to the next point of the centre star, 2 chain; 1 plain in the next pearl; fasten off. 2nd green star--work as the white star, joining to it. repeat the white and green stars alternately until there are eight of them. in working the last, the 5 chain and 1 plain is only to be made three times, and the two last loops joined to the 1st star to make it round. 2nd mauve star--work as the centre star until there are 6 points; and for the 7th point--4 chain, join to the 3rd loop of a white star; and on the 4 chain, miss 1, 1 plain, 2 treble, then 1 plain in the next pearl. work the 8th point the same as the 7th, joining it to the next loop of the green star; fasten off. 3rd mauve star--work as the last, joining it first to the 3rd loop of the green star and then to the white star. work the same for 6 stars more. 1st gold circle--commence on the top of the 2nd point of a mauve star, work 5 chain and 1 plain in the next points of the star 4 times, then 3 chain, 1 plain in the centre loop of the small star, 3 chain, 1 plain in the 1st point of the next mauve star, then 6 chain, join to the centre of the last 5 chain of gold, work 3 plain in the 6 chain, then 2 chain, 1 plain on the second point of the mauve star. repeat all round, and fasten off. white circle--commence on the centre of the 3 plain between the stars, work 3 chain, miss 3, 1 plain in the gold stitch over the 2nd point of the star, + 4 chain, miss 2, 2 treble, both in the centre stitch of the 5 gold chain, 4 chain, miss 2, 1 plain on the gold stitch over the next point of the star. repeat from + twice more, then 3 chain, 1 plain in the centre of the gold 3 plain. repeat from the commencement of the circle all round, and fasten off. 2nd gold circle--commence at the 1 plain between the stars, 3 chain, miss 6, 1 plain in the 4 chain of the last circle (5 chain, miss 4 and 1 plain in the 4 chain of last circle 5 times), 3 chain, miss 6, 1 plain in the centre stitch over the 3 plain gold. repeat from the commencement all round. mauve circle--commence in the 1st 3 chain of the last circle between the stars, work (6 chain, miss 5 and 1 plain in the 5 gold chain 6 times), 1 chain, miss 3, 1 plain in the 3 chain. repeat all round, and fasten off. round doyley. design no. 9. _materials--white and magenta single berlin wool, penelope needle no. 2. for the stars, gold twine or a skein of crochet silk, tatting pin no. 3, and a small shuttle._ centre diamond. with the gold work a diamond as page 4. 1st round--with the magenta wool and crochet needle commence in one of the pearl loops of the diamond, work 3 chain and 1 plain in each of the twelve pearl loops; fasten off. 2nd round--with white wool commence in one of the three chains between the ovals of the diamond, work 4 chain, 1 plain in the same 3 chain; 2 chain, miss 1, 1 plain in the next 3 chain; 4 chain, miss 1, 1 plain in the next 3 chain; 2 chain, miss 1, 1 plain in the next 3 chain; repeat 3 times more, and fasten off. with the gold work 16 sexagon stars as page 4. 1st white star--commence in a pearl loop of one of the gold stars, work (5 chain and 1 plain in the next pearl loops 5 times), 3 chain, take the diamond and join to the centre of the 4 chain over one of the ovals of it, 2 chain, 1 plain in the 1st pearl; fasten off. work 3 stars more the same, always joining over the ovals of the diamond. 1st magenta star--commence in a pearl loop of a gold star, work (5 chain and 1 plain in the next pearls 3 times), 3 chain, join to the 1st loop of chain of a white star, 2 chain, 1 plain in the next pearl, 3 chain, join to the next 4 chain of the diamond, 2 chain, 1 plain in the pearl, 3 chain, join to the next loop of the 2nd white star, 2 chain, 1 plain in the pearl; fasten off. 2nd magenta star--commence in a pearl of a star, work (5 chain and 1 plain as before 4 times), 3 chain, join to the 2nd loop of chain of the 1st white star, which is to the left of the magenta star, 2 chain, 1 plain as before, 3 chain, join to the next loop of the magenta star, 2 chain, 1 plain; fasten off. 3rd magenta star--work as the last star, making the first joining to the 1st loop of the 1st magenta star, and the second joining to the next white star. repeat these 3 magenta stars 3 times more, that is, between each of the white stars. then with the gold, work 8 octagon stars, as page 4. 1st large magenta star--commence in a pearl loop of one of the stars, work (6 chain and 1 plain in a pearl loop 5 times), 3 chain; take the 3rd magenta star, which is to the left of a white one, and join to the 1st loop of it, 3 chain, 1 plain as before, 3 chain, join to the loop of the white star, 3 chain, 1 plain, 3 chain, join to the 4th loop of the next magenta star, 3 chain, 1 plain; fasten off. work 3 stars more the same. 1st gold circle--commence in the centre loop of the 1st sexagon star, work 3 chain, 1 plain in the next loop of the next sexagon star, then (5 chain and 1 plain in the next loops of the stars 10 times); 3 chain, 1 plain in the centre loop of the 1st star; repeat from commencement and fasten off. large white star--commence in a gold star, work (6 chain and 1 plain 4 times), 3 chain, join to the centre of the 2nd 5 chain of the last circle, 3 chain, 1 plain in the next pearl, 3 chain, join to the next 5 chain, 3 chain, 1 plain, 3 chain, join to the next 5 chain, missing the two loops between the stars; 3 chain, 1 plain, 3 chain, join to the next 5 chain, 3 chain, 1 plain; fasten off. work 3 stars more the same, leaving 6 loops of the gold between them. 2nd gold circle--take the last loop of a white star and commence in the gold loop to which it was joined, work (5 chain, miss 5 and 1 plain in a white loop 4 times), 5 chain, 1 plain in the gold loop to which the next white loop was joined, (5 chain, miss 5 and 1 plain in a gold loop 7 times); repeat from the commencement of the circle. white circle--commence in the 1st loop of gold, (5 chain, miss 5 and 1 plain in the next gold loops 4 times), (2 chain, miss 5, 1 plain in the next gold loops twice); repeat all round. magenta circle--commence in the 1st 2 chain of last round, 1 chain, 1 plain in the next 2 chain, then (6 chain, miss 5 and 1 plain in the next white loops 5 times); repeat and fasten off. round doyley. design no. 10. _materials--blue and white single berlin wool; penelope needle no. 2. for the stars, gold twine or a skein of crochet silk, tatting pin no. 3, and a small shuttle._ with the gold work 9 octagon stars as page 4. white circle--with the wool and crochet needle commence in one of the pearl loops of a gold star, work 5 chain and 1 plain in each of the 8 pearl loops; fasten off. repeat the same round the other 8 stars. centre star. blue circle--commence in a white loop of one of the stars, work 7 chain, miss 5 and 1 plain in the next white loop; repeat all round, and fasten off. 1st gold circle--commence in one of the blue loops, and to form a point, work 5 chain, turn, and on these 5 chain, miss 2, 1 plain, 1 treble, 1 long; then miss 7, 1 plain in the next blue loop; repeat all round and fasten off. circle of stars. 1st blue circle--take one of the white and gold stars and commence in a loop of it, work (7 chain, miss 5 and 1 plain in the next loop 7 times), 4 chain; take the centre star and join to one of the gold points of it, 3 chain, 1 plain in the next loop; fasten off. 2nd blue circle--take another star and commence in a loop of it (7 chain, miss 5 and 1 plain 5 times), 4 chain, take the centre star and join to the next gold point to the left of the last star, 3 chain, 1 plain in the next loop, 4 chain, join to the next blue loop of the star, 3 chain, 1 plain as before, 4 chain, join to the next blue loop, 3 chain, 1 plain; fasten off. repeat as the 2nd circle 6 times more, but in working the 8th circle, the 7 chain and 1 plain must be made only 3 times, and the two loops joined to the 1st star to make it round. 2nd gold circle--commence in the 1st unattached blue loop of one of the stars, work (4 chain and 1 treble 4 times, all in the centre loop of the blue star), then 4 chain, miss 5, 1 plain in the next blue loop; and to form a point, work 5 chain, turn, miss 2, 1 plain, 1 treble, 1 long; then 1 plain in the next blue loop; repeat all round and fasten off. white circle--commence in one of the gold points, work 5 chain, 1 plain in the 4 gold chain, 5 chain, miss 4, 1 plain in the next 4 chain; 5 chain, miss 4, 1 treble in the next 4 chain then 5 chain, 1 treble in the same 4 chain as before, (5 chain, miss 4 and 1 plain in the 4 chain twice), 5 chain, 1 plain in the next point. repeat and fasten off. blue circle--commence in the 1st 5 chain, work (5 chain, miss 5 and 1 plain in the 5 chain 6 times), then 2 chain, miss 5, 1 plain in the next 5 chain. repeat and fasten off. antimacassar, square doyley, etc. design no. 11. _colours--magenta and green, azoff blue and white, or any two colours that contrast; the gold and other materials the same as no. 4._ with the gold work as many octagon stars (page 4) as will be required for the size. 1st magenta star--with the wool and crochet needle commence in a pearl loop of one of the stars, work 5 chain and 1 plain in each of the 8 pearl loops; fasten off. work several stars the same. 1st green star--take one of the gold stars and commence in a pearl loop of it, + 3 chain, take a magenta star and join to the centre of one of the loops of it, 2 chain, 1 plain in the next pearl, 3 chain, join to the next loop of the magenta star, 2 chain, 1 plain in the next pearl; repeat from + 3 times more, joining on another magenta star each time: fasten off. four magenta stars will now be joined, the green being in the centre. 2nd green star--the same as the last, but joining on only two more magenta stars, and making the other joinings to the last two stars of the four already joined. repeat the green star. london: printed by taylor and greening, graystoke place, fetter lane, holborn, e.c. [illustration] [illustration: a. goater, taylor & goater, nottingham.] transcriber's note obvious typographical errors have been corrected. a list of corrections is found at the end of the text. [illustration: _under sleeves._ _baby's hood._ _crochet collar._] the new guide to knitting & crochet. by marie jane cooper. published by j. s. cooper, foreign and british depôt of berlin patterns, and materials for ladies' fancy works, royal marine library, marine parade, hastings: and parry, blenkarn & co., london. the new guide to knitting and crochet, dedicated by permission, to the countess of wicklow, whose kindness to the authoress, will ever be remembered with grateful feelings of respect, by her most obedient servant, marie jane cooper preface. i venture to publish the new guide to knitting and crochet, believing it will prove both instructive and amusing to those ladies, whose taste leads them to such pursuits. the authoress being practically acquainted with these arts, she warrants them correct, and trusts they will meet with a favourable reception by the public, and be found a useful appendage to every work-table. hastings, january 1847. index. page _siberian cuffs_ 1 _leaf pattern for a pincushion_ 2 _twisted knitting_ 3 _vandyke border_ ib _open-knitted lace cuffs_ 4 _prudence cap_ 5 _cardinal cape_ ib _shell-pattern purse_ 6 _a very beautiful cap crown_ ib _head piece for cap_ 8 _insertion for cuffs_ 9 _feather pattern_ 10 _edgings_ ib _another edge_ 11 _leaf stitch_ ib _knitted muff_ 12 _long sleeves for under a dress_ ib _opera cap_ 13 _shetland shawl_ 14 _star-pattern shawl_ 15 _shetland knitted scarf_ 16 _leaf pattern for an anti-macassar_ 17 _knitted fringe_ 18 _knitted bag, with black, garnet, or steel beads_ ib _directions for a full-sized quilt_ 19 _chair back pattern_ ib _a broad open lace_ 20 _hour-glass pattern cuffs_ 21 _a very handsome mat_ ib _ribbed mitts_ 24 _watch chains_ ib _directions for a purse_ ib _a bag to hold wools_ 25 _baby's shoes_ ib _toilet cushion_ 26 _a stocking_ ib _knitted fringe_ 28 _carriage boots_ ib _baby's hood_ 29 _for the hood_ ib _knitted bustle_ 30 _anti-macassar_ ib _harlequin quilt, with tufts_ 31 _ruff for the neck_ 32 _polka coat, for a child_ 33 _a very pretty fringe_ 35 _under sleeves_ 36 _baby's knitted body_ 39 _band for baby's body_ 40 _edging for ditto_ 43 _gentleman's woollen gloves_ 44 _to form a pattern for the back_ ib crochet _directions for the different stitches in close and open crochet_ 46 _raised crochet_ 47 _chain open crochet_ ib _single open crochet_ ib _double open crochet_ 48 _treble open crochet_ ib _vandyke open crochet_ ib _a pretty neck tie_ 49 _a new sofa pillow_ ib _a carpet bag_ ib _a neck rest, or cushion_ 50 _a brioche, or turkish cushion_ 51 _a very elegant bag_ 52 _original pattern for a crochet collar_ 53 _plain purse_ 55 _mouchoir case_ ib _warm muffatees_ ib _raised crochet slippers_ 56 _anti-macassar_ ib _shawl_ 57 _watch chains_ 58 _ladies' cuffs_ ib the new guide to knitting and crochet siberian cuffs. nine shades of wool used double, or double berlin, either in shades of sable or chinchilli, look best. cast on sixty stitches, knit three plain rows with the darkest shade; in the fourth row seam two stitches together; pass the wool round, seam two together; pass the wool round, seam two together, and so on till the end of the row. join on the next shade, and knit three plain rows. in the fourth row, seam two together; pass the wool round, and seam two together the same as before; continue in this manner knitting three plain rows and an open row of each shade, until the ninth of white. only knit two plain rows; this will reverse the shades: join the second lightest shade, and knit one plain row and one open row; two plain rows; continue knitting one plain row, one open row, and two plain rows of each shade; it will then correspond in appearance with the other side; then sew the two edges together, and let the join come in the centre of the wrong side, and it will look as though knit double. leaf pattern for a pincushion. cast on each needle forty-five stitches, fifteen for each pattern. _first round_--pass the thread in front, purl two, knit one, taking the back part of the loop; purl two, slip one, knit one, and bring the slipped stitch over the last knit, knit six, bring the thread forward; knit one; continue this till the round is completed. _second round_--thread before, purl two, knit one, taking the back part of the loop; purl two, slip one, and cast the slipped over; knit the remaining stitches plain; in the first row you have increased one stitch in every fifteen; the second brings them to the original number; knit these rounds alternately, making the holes (which occur in every alternate row) one stitch sooner each time, _i. e._, knitting five, then four, then three, then two, then one, instead of six stitches, and plain to the purled stitches, then commence as before. twisted knitting. begin with about twenty stitches on one needle, and with the other knit two or three plain rows; next row knit six plain, purl eight, knit the remainder plain; knit the next row plain, and so on for twelve rows; next row, when the right side is towards you, after knitting the first six stitches plain, take a third needle, and slip off four stitches, and keep them behind till you have knit the next four; then knit them; this forms the twist; then knit the remaining six plain; knit the next row plain, and so on for twelve rows; then repeat the twist. vandyke border. cast on nine stitches, slip one, knit one, bring the thread forward, and knit two together for three times, thread forward, knit one, purl the next row; repeat these two rows alternately, increasing one plain stitch each time in the fancy row, until you have eighteen stitches; to decrease the point, slip the first, knit two together, bring the thread forward, and knit two together for four times, until it is reduced to nine stitches; every alternate row is purled. open knitted lace cuffs. needles no. 20, and no. 34, boar's-head cotton. cast on thirty-four stitches, knit four plain rows. _fifth row_--knit two, slip one, knit one, pass the slipt one over the knitted one, bring the thread forward, knit one, thread forward, knit one, thread forward, purl one, and so on to the end of the row. commence the next row by slipping one, and continue as before, till you come to the end of the row, where you will have two plain stitches left, which are to be knit; continue with these rows alternately, until the cuff is long enough for the wrist, then cast off the stitches, and edge it with narrow valenciennes lace, or with the vandyke edging. prudence cap. cast on fifty stitches coloured wool, knit eight rows, knitting and purling alternate rows, and twisting each stitch; five rows of coloured, and four of white wool, knit loosely on small ivory pins, for the edge. cardinal cape. cast on seventy-two stitches in the brioche stitch, which is done by bringing the wool forward; slip one stitch off underneath, and knit two together, coloured wool, and knit one row, besides the casting-on row, white wool, knit four times from end to end; and then leave six stitches each time, till you have formed one gore; twice and back with coloured wool; and then another white gore; fourteen white gores, and finish with one coloured row; and then cast off. border for the lower end, with an open scollop: run one string round the row of holes, and another string in a few stitches lower to form the waist; the brioches are done in the same manner; but twelve gores, and each different colours; you cast on sixty stitches instead of seventy-two: six oz. white, and two coloured four-thread fleecy, or double berlin wool, is enough for cape and border. shell pattern purse. cast on ninety-six stitches, pins no. 19; thread a row of beads; knit three plain rows; purl the close scollop; and every purl stitch knit a bead, twelve rows of beads deep at each end; and ten rows of beads deep in the middle; three plain rounds; cast off. a very beautiful cap crown. no. 22 pins, and 60, boar's-head cotton. cast on three stitches on each of three needles. _first row_--plain. _second row_--make one, knit one, to the end of the row. _third_--plain. _fourth_--make one, knit two, to the end. _fifth_--plain. _sixth_--make one, knit three. _seventh_--plain. _eighth_--make one, knit four. _ninth_--plain. _tenth_--make one, knit five. _eleventh_--plain. _twelfth_--make one, knit six. _thirteenth_--plain. _fourteenth_--make one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; knit four. _fifteenth_--plain. _sixteenth_--make one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; knit three. _seventeenth_--plain. _eighteenth_--make one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; knit two. _nineteenth_--plain. _twentieth_--make one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; knit one. _twenty-first_--plain. _twenty-second_--make one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over. _twenty-third_--plain. border. _twenty-fourth row_--purl; catch up a stitch at each point of the star. _twenty-fifth_--purl. _twenty-sixth_--knit two stitches together, all round. _twenty-seventh_--throw the thread over the needle, before every stitch. _twenty-eighth_--plain. _twenty-ninth_--purl; now begin at _row twenty-five_, and knit the border over again twice. head-piece of the cap. a round of eyelet holes; four plain rounds, bring the cotton forward, take two together, for five rounds; four plain rounds, bring cotton forward, and knit two together, for five rounds; four plain rounds; a round of eyelet holes; four plain rounds; bring the cotton forward, knit two together, knit five; bring cotton forward, knit one; bring cotton forward, knit two together, knit three; knit two together, bring cotton forward, knit two together, knit three-knit two together, knit five; bring cotton forward, knit two together, knit one, knit two together, bring cotton forward, knit one stitch. insertion for cuffs. a row of eyelet holes, done by bringing the cotton forward, and knitting two together; afterwards five plain rows; knit six, pass the seam stitch over, bring the cotton forward, and knit two together, four plain; knit four; pass the seam stitch over, bring cotton forward, and knit two together, knit one; bring cotton forward, knit two together, knit one; knit three; pass the seamed stitch over, bring cotton forward, knit two together, knit three; bring cotton forward, knit two together, take one off; knit two together, and draw over. feather pattern. nineteen stitches for each pattern on three pins; bring the thread forward, and knit one, three times; take two together, three times; knit one (centre stitch), decrease three times more, increase three times; knit three plain rounds. edgings. cast on twelve stitches. _first row_--knit three, make one, take two together, knit one, make one, take two together, three times over. _second_--knit two, and purl one, three times; knit three, make one, take two, knit one. _third_--knit three, knit three, make one, take two together, knit ten. _fourth_--cast off three, knit eight, make one, take two, knit one. another edge. cast on eight stitches. _first row_--knit three, make one, take two together, knit one, make two, knit two. _second row_--knit three, purl one, knit three, make one, take two together, knit one. _third row_--knit three, make one, take two, knit five. _fourth row_--cast off two, knit four, make one, take two, knit one; commence again. leaf stitch. this is for one pattern only. cast on eight stitches. _first row_--make a stitch, knit one, make one, knit two, take two together, knit two. _second row_--plain. _third row_--make one, knit three, make one, knit one; diminish, knit one. _fourth row_--plain. _fifth row_--make one, knit five, make one, diminish. _sixth row_--plain; diminish by taking two stitches off together, knitting one, and drawing two over the knitted one. knitted muff. cast on forty-five stitches, every row alike; slip a stitch at the beginning, knit one, purl one, repeat to the end a piece about twenty inches in length, enough for a moderate sized muff, lined with gros-de-naples, stuffed with wool, and enough horse hair to keep it in shape: shades of wool to imitate sable, are the best colours. long sleeves to wear under a dress. no. 14 pins, and six-thread embroidery fleecy. cast on forty-two stitches loosely, and knit and purl three stitches alternately, for twelve turns; knit ten turns plain; knit thirty-five turns plain, increasing one stitch on each turn; knit twenty turns plain, increasing one stitch every other turn; repeat the twelve turns, as at the beginning. opera cap. cast on seventy-four stitches white wool, purl one row, knit one row white, purl one row coloured, bring the wool forward, and knit two as one; purl one row, knit one row white, purl one row, knit one row white; this forms the border. _first division_--coloured; purl one row, knit one row, decreasing one stitch at each end; knit one row, knit a fancy row, by taking two stitches together, keeping the wool before the pin. _second division_--white; purl one row, decreasing one stitch at each end, knit one row, decreasing two stitches at each end; knit one row, decreasing one stitch at each end; knit one fancy row as before. _third division_--coloured; purl one row, decreasing one stitch at each end; knit one row without decreasing; knit a fancy row, as before. _fourth division_, _fifth_, _sixth_, _seventh_--the same as the third, to be repeated alternately with white and coloured wool. _eighth division_--white. _ninth_--coloured: in these two last divisions, only two stitches are to be decreased in each, and this is to be done in the row, after the one at each end. n.b. there should be forty stitches left on the pin in the last row; if the pins are small, begin with eighty stitches, and then there should be forty-six left, instead of forty; pick up thirty stitches on each side, and make the borders at the sides and back, like the first: make up the cap, by turning in the border to the fancy row, and hem it all round: it is to be tied behind, and under the chin, with ribbon, or plaitted wool, with tassels of the same. shetland shawl pattern. shetland wool, and no. 4 pins; about one hundred and sixty stitches; cast on any number of stitches that will divide by six. _first row_--bring the wool forward, knit one, wool in front, knit one, slip one, knit two as one; bring the slipt stitch over, then knit one. _second row_--purl knitting. _third row_--wool forward, knit three; wool forward, slip one, knit two as one, and cast over. _fourth row_--purl knitting. _fifth row_--knit one, slip one, knit two as one, and bring the slipt stitch over, and then knit one, make one, knit one, wool forward. _sixth row_--purl knitting. _seventh row_--slip one, knit two as one, and cast over, make one, knit three, make one. _eighth row_--purl knitting; there are to be two plain stitches at the beginning and end of each row, to form an edge; take up the stitches on each ride, and knit the border in the feather pattern, increasing one stitch at each end of the rows, to form the corner. star-pattern shawl, in two colours. cast on four stitches in blue wool. _first row_--wool before the pin, knit one, wool before, slip one, knit two not together; pass the slipt stitch over them; repeat this to the end. _second row_--purl knitting in claret. _third row_--game as the first, in blue. _fourth row_--same as the second, in claret; repeat these rows until there are one hundred and eighty stitches on the pin: cast off and finish with a fringe; as the increasing adds an irregular stitch, some rows will have one, and others two knitted stitches at the commencement. shetland knitted scarf. commence with the pattern of the border by casting on one hundred stitches for the width of the scarf; no. 4 pins and shetland wool are required. _first row_--knit two together four times, bring the wool forward, and knit one eight times, knit two as one four times, purl one, repeat to the end of the row. _second row_--purled. _third row_--plain. _fourth row_--purled; repeat from the first row, until the pattern is about fourteen inches deep. commence the centre as follows (this is done in white wool--the borders in shades). _first row_--plain knitting before beginning the pattern. _first row_ of the pattern, wool before, slip one, knit one, pass the slip stitch over, knit one, purl one; repeat to the end of the row. _second and following rows_--repeat, every row being alike; both ends of the scarf are to be made the same, by reversing the knitting of the border; they may be finished with a red knitted or netted fringe of the same wool doubled twice. leaf pattern, for an anti-macassar. cast on any number of stitches that will divide by eight. _first row_--make a stitch, knit one, make one, knit two, slip two as one, knit one, and draw the slipt ones over it; purl back. _third row_--make one, knit three, make one, knit one; diminish; knit one, purl back. _fifth row_--make one, knit five; diminish; purl back. _seventh row_--diminish, knit two, make one, knit one, make one, purl back. _ninth row_--knit one, diminish, knit one, make one, knit three, make one, purl back. _eleventh row_--make one, knit five, make one, purl back. knitted fringe. cast on seven stitches, slip the first, bring the cotton forward, and knit two together twice, then put the needle into the last stitch, without drawing it out, until you have wound the cotton round two fingers three times, the whole of which must be taken together as one stitch; knit the last stitches back row plain knitting. knitted bag, with black, garnet, or steel beads. thread half a bunch of beads on a skein of coarse netting silk, and cast on eighty-eight stitches. _first and second row_ plain knitting without beads. _third row_--slip one, knit one with a bead, knit one to the end of the row; repeat from first row eighty-four times; observe, at the commencement of every row, to make a slipt stitch; join up the two sides, leaving an opening at the top, and finished with two bars and a gold or steel chain, a fringe of the garnet beads, with gold points; it should have a stiff lining. no. 16 pins, eight skeins of silk, and four bunches of beads, including those required for the fringe, will be wanted. directions for a full-sized quilt. no. 18 cotton, no. 20 pins. eight stripes with one hundred and thirteen stitches for each, with a border of fifty stitches; a counterpane without a border will require more stripes. chair back pattern. cast on one hundred and eighty stitches, pins no. 12; knit the length on the pins; pattern stitch is cast over twice, and take two as one; knit one; do this for five rows, knitting back plain each time; then reverse the pattern; then cast over twice; knit one and take two five times. a broad open lace. cast on fifteen stitches, slip one, knit one, turn over four times; knit two as one; turn over; knit two as one; repeat; turn over; knit two as one four times more; knit one. _second row_--slip one, knit twelve, purl one, knit one, purl one, knit two. _third row_--plain knitting. _fourth row_--plain. _fifth row_--slip one, knit one, turn over five times, knit two as one, turn over, knit two as one, repeat, turn over, knit two as one five times more, knit one. _sixth row_--slip one, knit fifteen, purl one, knit one, purl one, knit three. _seventh row_--plain. _eighth row_--plain. _ninth row_--cast off seven, and begin at the first row to knit one, turn over four times, and commence again. hour glass pattern cuffs. to be sewn down at one end; cast on sixty loops, knit twenty-two rows of white, then two rows of each colour, three shades are required, and white, four rows of white, two rows of each colour, three shades; four rows of white, two rows of each colour, three shades, four of white, six of white, ribbed two, and knit two, two coloured of each shade ribbed; the same ten of white ribbed ditto, two of coloured, six of white, and cast off. a very handsome mat. this mat is made to imitate fur, with ermine in the centre. to make this mat a yard long and three quarters wide, you require one pound of fleecy; that is, a quarter of a pound of each of four shades for the border, half a pound of white for the middle, and one pound of common for the back; also two skeins of black for the tails; it must all be in six-thread fleecy, except the common for the back, which requires twelve-thread. no. 6 pin, by the eagle gauge, is required. cast on seventy-two stitches with the common white, knit one plain row, then take a skein of the darkest or lightest, according to fancy, cut the skein into half, and divide each half into four, so that the pieces may be about half a quarter in length; slip the first stitch; then take two of the pieces of wool, put them on the left hand pin, twisting it so that one may be behind and the other in front; knit the next stitch, and the two pieces of wool altogether; bring the ends in front and knit another stitch, one plain row between each, and three rows of each four shades; cut previous to commencing the second shade put in two pieces of the darkest at each end; this for three rows: the third shade, two pieces of each of the previous shades, and so on, until you have completed the border, by knitting in the four shades; then put in two pieces of each colour, and commence the white; you will have forty-eight stitches for the white; knit twelve rows, that is to say, six rows putting the pieces in, and every other one being plain, makes the twelve rows; then knit in six pieces, take two of the black, and then twelve more white, one piece of black and twelve more white, one more of black; if the mat is larger or smaller, the centre stitches have only to be equally divided by spots of black: the next row you must put in two black over the one in the previous row, and in the third row one of black over each two; then six more rows of white, that is twelve with the plain one, and then knit in twelve pieces before you commence the black; repeat this as above-mentioned; you will find that this time you will have only space for two black spots; continue in this way till it is finished: it is then combed out until it resembles fur; you then twist the four pieces of black together to resemble the tail; a little gum is then used in twisting this. after having been well combed, they are made up on a stiff back. they may also be made with an ermine outside, and a coloured centre, but they are not so pretty. ribbed mitts. cast on fifty-six stitches round the wrist; increase till you have seventy-four by the thumb; take off twenty-three stitches for the thumb; these ought to be twenty-one rows in depth, sixteen from the bottom, and five above the thumb. watch chains. cast on three stitches, slip a stitch, take one off, knit one, and slip the previous one over. for a purse. cast on with no. 18 pins, and a middling-sized silk, of which you require four skeins; make a stitch, take one off, knit one, and slip the previous one over this. a bag to hold wools. cast on one hundred and forty five stitches with cruels, of which you require six skeins for one bag; two yards of ribbon, and two and a half of another colour, to bind the ring; six different shades, and fourteen rows of each colour in the plain stitch of knitting; the centre double the number of rows. baby's shoes. cast on thirty-six stitches, scarlet german wool; two rows of red; sixteen rows of white; narrow, by taking two together, on the seventeenth and twenty-first rows; knit thirteen more rows, then divide the stitches into three, viz.:--ten, twelve, and ten: knit twenty rows on the middle needle, which has the twelve stitches, and bind, or cast them off; take up the front, as you would a stocking heel, and make twelve stitches beyond; knit two rows narrowing at the toe, every other row; this is to be repeated six times, and then at the heel, still narrowing the same in front, till you have only sixteen stitches which bind off, take up the red stitches in front, catching one white one each time, till the other side is like the first; you may introduce open stitches on the instep, and round the leg. toilet cushion. cast on thirty-six loops on the two first pins, and forty-eight on the other; knit two plain rounds one purl, three plain, six plain, with the thread brought forward, two plain, one purl, one plain, fifteen plain, one plain, one purl, one purl narrowing one, eleven plain, slip one, knit one, pass it over, one plain, one purl, one plain, narrow once, seven plain, slip one, knit one, pass it over. a stocking. cast on one hundred and three stitches for the first six rounds; knit two, and purl two, then one row, every stitch turned; twenty-four purl, taking in one on each side the seam, eight purl, take in again, eight purl, and take in; then twelve purl, and increase; which must be done by making a stitch on each side the seam; three purl, and increase again, three purl, and increase again, fourteen purl, take in, three purl, take in; do this until you have taken in sixteen times; twenty purl; set the heel by dividing the stitches, when there will be, if correct, thirty-five for the heel, and thirty-six for the instep; knit nineteen, purl the twentieth, purl under two stitches beyond the seam, on the wrong side, and take two together; this do on each side, till you have taken up all, to each end, when there will remain seven stitches on your pin, take up the stitches, and in the third row, make a stitch; in every third stitch in the next round, take two stitches together, where the instep and heel join, do this every other round, till you have reduced the heel stitches to the same number you have on your instep pin; forty-four rounds plain, take in on each side the heel and instep, leaving two stitches between; knit two rounds, take in the same again, this do six times, then take in every other round five times, two rounds every time, when you will have twenty-three or twenty-four stitches remaining, which cast off. knitted fringe. cast on eight stitches; slip the first, make one, knit two together, put in a piece of cotton or wool on the left hand needle, knit one stitch, bring the ends in front, and knit another, put them back, and knit the remainder, the next row plain, except the stitch you put the piece in, take three all together. carriage boots. cast on fifty-six stitches, with black wool; knit ten rows coloured, ten black, ten coloured, ten black; increase sixteen ribs on each side; after the increasing is finished, knit three rows ribbed, with coloured wool; thirty-seven rows of black; these ought to be done in three-thread fleecy, and fine pins. baby's hood. piece round the neck. cast on one hundred and forty stitches; knit six rows plain, knitting four on each pin plain, and purl, twelve rows of double knitting, twenty-four rows narrowing at the end, in double knitting, eight rows plain knitting, and cast off. for the hood. cast on one hundred and five stitches, ribbing five, and knitting five; knit six rows, and begin double, knitting four at each end plain, of which knit thirty-two rows, and then narrow off at each end six times, knit six rows plain, and cast off; double this in the middle, gather up about three nails, and stitch a string in front beyond the ribbed purl. knitted bustle. for this you require six ounces of eight-thread fleecy, and two pair of pins, no. 1 and no. 10, by the eagle gauge. cast on sixty stitches on the fine pins, and knit six rows, knitting two, and purling two stitches; then take the larger sized one, and knit thirty rows, putting the wool twice round the pin; then another piece but only twenty-six rows, and the third only eighteen rows. commence always in this manner, with the fine pins, join them altogether at the part which is ribbed, and put it on a string. anti-macassar. cast on one hundred stitches on no. 10 pins, with no. 4 cotton, and knit one plain row (pattern). _first row_--purled. _second row_--cotton forward, and take two together. _third row_--purled. _fourth row_--plain, with no. 2 pins, cotton twice over the pins; repeat these four rows until the square is complete; sew every six threads of the large row tightly together in the centre, with scarlet german wool, fastening off each six securely and separately; then knit any fringe you may fancy, and join it on. harlequin quilts, with tufts. plain double knitting, with six-thread fleecy, in pieces of six inches square, each of the pieces being about twenty-four stitches each way; when finished, they are to be sewn together with a tuft of black wool at the corner of each square. the tufts may be made in the following manner:--take a groved wooden mesh, an inch in width, wind round it four-thread black fleecy about twelve times; slip a coarse thread in the grove, and tie the wool quite tight, leaving an end to it that may be drawn through and attached to the quilt; cut the loops of wool through on the opposite side of the mesh, then comb and shear it neatly, for a quilt two yards and a half square, two hundred and twenty-five pieces will be required: it will take two hundred and fifty-six tufts. ruff for the neck. for this you require five-thread super fleecy, and two sized pins, no. 3 and no. 11; cast on fifty stitches on no. 3, and knit seventeen plain rows. _eighteenth row_--double the piece of knitting, and knit the casting on row in with this one. _nineteenth, twentieth, and twenty-first rows_--are plain, with no. 11 pins. _twenty-second row_--knit one, bring the wool forward, and take two together to the end. _twenty-third, twenty-fourth, and twenty-fifth rows_--plain now; no. 3 pins, and knit eighteen rows to match the first fold; sew this side down to match the other; run a ribbon through the holes for strings. a polka coat, for a child. cast on twenty-five stitches, which will make seventy-five ribs, in the brioche stitch, which is done by bringing the wool forward, slipping a stitch the purl way, and knit two together; bring the wool forward, knit twenty-four rows, or twelve turns of white; then commence the scarlet, by leaving eighteen stitches on each side, knit twenty-four rows, or twelve turns of scarlet; then begin to take in, which is done by knitting the first thirty on each side, without decreasing; then bring the wool forward, slip one stitch, and knit five together; repeat this till within thirty on the other side, which, knit without decreasing, until you have only forty ribs, or one hundred and twenty stitches; knit forty-eight rows, or twenty-four turns, in this manner, still leaving the white on each side; put thirty stitches on another needle for the front, knit those backwards and forwards for thirty-six rows, or eighteen turns; then knit all the stitches but one rib, turn back, and finish the row, and so on, leaving one rib more each time, till it is the proper length for the shoulder. cast off, but be particular that the slanting side is not in front; finish the other side in the same way, then take up the stitches for the back; knit thirty-six rows, to correspond with the fronts for the arm-hole; then knit backwards and forwards, leaving one rib each way, until it is the same length as the slanting part in front, which are to be joined together; cast off; now take up the white stitches on each side, and knit till it is long enough to go up the sides; for the sleeves; cast on seventy-two stitches, knit thirty rows, then twelve more, leaving one rib on the one side to form the wide part; for the collar; cast on seventy-six stitches, and knit twelve rows, leaving one rib on each side; then sixteen rows of white; cast off; cast on eighteen stitches for the cuff, and knit till it is long enough to go round the bottom of the sleeve; twist a cord of the same coloured wool, and put in the waist behind, with a tassel at the ends; the same under the collar. these may be done in four-thread fleecy, but they look much better in double berlin wool, no. 9 pins, by the eagle gauge. for a lady's, you must cast on stitches in proportion, and larger pins. a very pretty fringe. cast on nine stitches; knit one row; second row, begin by knitting two plain stitches; pass the cotton twice round the pin, and take off two stitches; then put on the loop. having cut the cotton into lengths you may require for the fringe, and knit one stitch, pass the loop forward, and knit another; then pass it back, and knit two stitches; bring it forward again, and knit one more; in the next row, knit four stitches, and take off the loop and one of the stitches, leaving five to knit off plain. under sleeves. no. 30, boar's-head cotton, no. 24 needles, by the eagle knitting gauge. set on seventy-eight stitches, twenty-six on each needle, six stitches in each pattern. _first round_--bring the thread forward, knit three plain; bring the thread forward, slip one off without knitting, knit the two next together, then lift the slipped one over the taken-in loop. _second round_--plain, then knit one stitch of the next row. _third round_--bring the thread forward, slip one off without knitting, knit the two next together, then lift the slipped one over the taken-in loop, knit three. _fourth round_--plain, then knit one stitch of the next row. _fifth round_--bring the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together, knit one, take two together. _sixth round_--plain, then knit one stitch of the next row. _seventh round_--bring the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together; knit one, take two together. _eighth round_--plain; then knit one stitch of the next row. _ninth round_--bring the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together; knit one, take two together. _tenth round_--plain, then knit one stitch of the next row. _eleventh round_--bring the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together; knit one, take two together. _twelfth round_--plain; continue this till it is long enough, then cast it off very loosely. knitted edgings to trim this under-sleeve. needles no. 24, boar's-head cotton no. 30. _first row_--slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, slip one off without knitting, knit the two next together, then lift the slipped one over the taken-in loop; bring the thread forward, knit three, bring the thread forward, take two together; bring the thread forward twice, take two together; bring the thread forward twice, take two together, knit one. _second row_--slip one, knit two; purl one, knit two; purl all but four, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together, knit one. _third row_--slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, take two together; bring the thread forward, take two together; knit one, take two together; bring the thread forward, knit three; bring the thread forward twice, take two together; bring the thread forward twice, take two together, knit one. _fourth row_--slip one, knit two; purl one, knit two; purl all but four, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together, knit one. _fifth row_--slip one, knit two; thread forward, take two together, knit one; bring the thread forward, slip one off without knitting; knit two together; then lift the slipped one over the taken-in loop; bring the thread forward, knit six; bring the thread forward twice, take two together; bring the thread forward twice, take two together, knit one. _sixth row_--slip one, knit two; purl one, knit two; purl all but four, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together, knit one. _seventh row_--slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, take two together; take two together, bring the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together, knit seven; bring the thread forward twice, take two together; bring the thread forward twice, take two together, knit one. _eighth row_--cast off eight, purl eleven, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together, knit one: you must purl the half stitches. begin again at the first row. baby's knitted body. this body is part of knitting, which is let into cambric. no. 24, boar's-head cotton, needles no. 17, eagle knitting gauge. the front is made in the following manner:--set on seven stitches, knit two plain rows; then begin the pattern row; make one stitch, knit a stitch, bring the cotton forward, take off one without knitting, knit two, bring the unknitted one over the other two; knit the second row plain; the third row the same as the first; these two rows form the pattern. you must only make a stitch, and knit one, at the commencement of every pattern-row, this is to increase the front; the pattern is continued throughout; the row is, bring the cotton forward, take off one without knitting, knit two, bring the unknitted one over the two. when you have one or two stitches at the end of the row, they must be knitted plain; continue these two rows till you have done enough for the front of a baby's body, then cast off very loosely. the sleeves are knitted in the same way, only begin with nine stitches; then knit two plain rows; cast off when proper size. band for baby's body. cast on twenty-one stitches; pins and cotton as before. _first row_--slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit three, knit two together; bring the thread forward, and knit one; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit five; bring the thread forward; knit two together, knit one. _second row_--slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward; knit two together; knit the remaining stitches plain all but three; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one. _third row_--slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit two, knit two together; bring the thread forward; knit three; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit four; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one. _fourth row_--the same as the second. _fifth row_--slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one, knit two together; bring the thread forward, and knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit three; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one. _sixth row_--the same as the second. _seventh row_--slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit two together; bring the thread forward; knit seven; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one. _eighth row_--the same as the second. _ninth row_--slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit three, knit two together; bring the thread forward, and knit four; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one. _tenth row_--the same as the second. _eleventh row_--slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, knit two together, knit three; bring the thread forward, knit two together, knit one, knit two together; bring the thread forward, knit five; bring the thread forward, knit two together, knit one. _twelfth row_--the same as the second. _thirteenth row_--slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, knit two together, knit four; bring the thread forward, and knit three together; bring the thread forward, knit six; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one. _fourteenth row_--the same as the second; then recommence as at the first row. edging to trim the body and sleeves. cast on seven stitches. _first row_--slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together; make two stitches, and knit two together. _second row_--make one, knit two, purl one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one. _third row_--slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit four. _fourth row_--cast off two, knit three; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one; then commence as at first. gentleman's woolen gloves. pins no. 14--wool three-thread fleecy. cast on seventy-two stitches, and knit twenty rounds; purling two, and knitting two; then knit six rounds plain. to form a pattern for the back. _first round_--knit seven, purl one; knit eight, purl one; knit eight, purl one; knit the rest plain. _second round_--knit six, purl three; knit six, purl three; knit six, purl three; rest plain. _third round_--knit five, purl five; knit four, purl five; knit four, purl five; rest plain. _fourth round_--knit as the second. _fifth round_--knit as the first. knit ten rounds plain, still purling one stitch on the end of each diamond. begin the thumb by making one stitch in each of the two last, at the same time increasing one plain stitch in the first and third purl stitches. continue increasing two stitches on the two thumb stitches, each other round, till you have twenty-four extra stitches, which place on another pin, and knit forty rounds without them. divide the thumb stitches on three pins, and increase two more on the under part of it; knit round, decreasing the same part (the under) till you have twenty-two left, which knit on till long enough, when again decrease till you have nine stitches only; break off the wool, and with a worsted needle, draw it through all the stitches, and fasten it inside. divide your stitches for each finger, taking two more for each of the two first fingers, than for the other two; it is better to measure by a glove, for the length of the fingers and thumb: this pattern is for the left hand, and wants the pattern for the back, reversing and knitting on the last, instead of the first pin; two-thread fleecy is required. directions for the different stitches in close and open crochet work. the greater part of close crochet articles are done in the double-plain stitch, which is done by taking a piece of wool, and casting on as many loops in chain-stitch as you may require, with the needle; it is very simple, being only to form a loop and draw the wool through one and another; the easiest manner would be, to continue drawing the wool through from right to left; this will make the work the same on both sides. the plain single-crochet is done by merely drawing the one loop you have on your needle through each stitch. plain double crochet is when you have cast on the foundation-loops, draw the wool through one stitch; take it up again, and through two; this stitch is used for table-covers and sofa-cushions; also when patterns are worked in. in the double-stitch crochet, you take both sides of the loop, but that is only used when you require it thick, and is very nice for soles for shoes. raised crochet is worked alternately from one side to the other, drawing the wool quite through, and taking the underneath part of the loop. the chain open crochet is made of chains, as for instance, five or seven loops drawn one through the other, and joined to the centre stitch of the preceding row; this is very pretty for purses, with a bead on each of the centre stitches. single open crochet is done by putting your needle under the wool, and then through the loop, draw the wool through, you will find that you have three stitches on your needle; draw the wool through the first two stitches, and then through the other two; you will now have one loop: make one by drawing the wool through that one; put it underneath and through the next loop but one; repeat as before. double open crochet is done by drawing it through in the same manner as you did for the single, but omitting the one-loop stitch until you have done two long stitches between each of the long ones. treble open crochet is much the same as the preceding patterns, but having three long stitches and three loop stitches between; in the next row, remember to make the long stitches upon the loops, and the loops on the preceding long stitches; you increase by going twice in the same loop, and decrease by missing one loop. there is another stitch called the treble vandyke open crochet, which is done by three long stitches, but put through the same loop. a pretty neck tie, of treble open crochet, and two colours in double berlin. cast on one hundred and forty loops, and do one row of each colour; three of white and five of coloured will make it wide enough; finish with a chenille tassel at each end. a new sofa pillow, in treble open crochet. choose nine shades of double berlin wool. cast on eighty loops, and commence with the darkest shade; one row of each colour to the lightest, and the same to the darkest. you may do them in shaded wool, with white between: make it about three complete stripes or half-a-yard square; you can crochet both sides, or have silk at the back. a carpet bag. this is done in the plain double crochet, also in plain double berlin wool. cast on sixty loops, and choose a pretty crochet pattern for the border on each side--say a narrow border of green leaves, perhaps ten or twelve stitches wide, on a scarlet ground, the centre a black ground, with a diamond arabesque pattern, in bright golds, scarlets, greens, and blues; to be about half-a-yard wide altogether, with the border on the other side; you can vary the other part of the bag at pleasure. they are made up with patent leather sides and bottom, with steel at the top. in working patterns, be particular to pass the whole between the needle and the wool you are working with. neck rest, or cushion, for the back of a chair. these are very comfortable for an invalid, they are generally done in shaded wool, and six colours, say scarlet, green, lilac, orange, blue and drab. cast on ninety loops, and eight rows of each colour; this is done in the plain double crochet, and when you cast on the loops for the foundation, join the ends, and work round, they are finished with velvet ends, and two pieces of cord round each piece of velvet; black looks better than coloured. a brioche, or turkish cushion. cast on thirty loops with black wool, crochet four rows all round, increasing one stitch at the end; then take a skein of shaded double berlin, and commence one stitch below the point of the black; work round to the top of the other side, then commence four loops below, and work till within four of the other side, and so on for eight rows, leaving three less each time; twelve pieces are required done in this manner; all different colours are prettier, or at least six, and repeat them once when you have finished, then crochet them all together and six rows completely round the bottom; you will find you have a space in the middle; crochet enough rows to fill this up, decreasing every three loops; make a round cushion, and cover it with your crochet: put a brioche mount in the centre. a very elegant bag, in french blue silk, and steel beads. commence by casting on three hundred loops, and crochet six plain rows in black, then thread your beads on the blue, and crochet a piece, which is done by making the wrong side of crochet the right; when you are putting on the beads, you must put your needle through the loop, pass a bead up close to the stitch, and finish it, and so on, until the piece is completed; then twelve rows plain, in blue, and six black; the seventh and eighth are done in the plain open crochet. to pass the cord through, you ought to choose a pattern from forty to fifty rows deep. you may also do round bags, commencing with three stitches, and increasing one in every other, for the first six rounds, and one in every three, for the next twelve, and so on until the bottom is large enough; then as many rounds as you require for the size of the bag; they are pretty in stripes of different colours, with beads or patterns of another colour, upon every alternate stripe. original pattern of a crochet collar. cast on one hundred and forty loops, crochet one plain row, then one row of plain open crochet in every loop, one row of the open vandyke treble crochet; the following of close crochet, if done correctly, will form a leaf. _first_--work along stitch in every loop. _second_--work three long stitches into three loops, make four chain stitches, miss two loops of the foundation, work a stitch of double plain crochet into the next, make four chain stitches, miss two of the foundation, and repeat. _third row_--work three long stitches over the three in the last row, make five chain stitches, work a stitch of double crochet over the one in the last row, make five chain stitches, and repeat. _fourth round_--the same as the third. _fifth row_--work five stitches of double crochet, beginning on the last chain stitches; before the three long stitches in last row, make eight chain stitches, and repeat one row quite round of the single open crochet; in every loop at the corners of the collar, you must increase two stitches at each end row. to commence the border, or edge of the collar, which of course is carried round as the preceding row--_first row_--make a long stitch, make one chain stitch, work another long stitch in the same loop, make three chain stitches, miss two of the foundation, and repeat. _second row_--work a long stitch into the one chain stitch in last row, make one chain stitch, work another long stitch into the same place, make two chain stitches, and repeat. _third row_--the same as the second. _fourth row_--work a long stitch into the one chain stitch of the last row, make six chain stitches, and repeat: these collars may be worked in many other patterns, some of which are to be found in a book called crochet collars. no. 14, or 16, boar's-head cotton, and a small steel needle is required. a plain purse. cast on seventy or eighty loops, and crochet six rows in double open crochet; it is prettier in two colours, say french blue, and ponceau, seven stripes are wide enough; they look well with one end square, and a fringe of beads at the bottom. a mouchoir case, in treble vandyke crochet. choose any pretty shades, or shaded double berlin, with rather a small sized hook; cast on one hundred loops, and crochet if in shades, one row of each colour, about thirty rows is required to make it wide enough; they are joined so as to leave it open down the centre, and lined with silk or satin; you will find them better with some scent in between the lining: they are to be fastened with a pretty button, or ribbon. warm muffatees. cast on for a gentleman, forty loops in double berlin, and crochet twenty rounds in shaded wool, then six rows of the chain open crochet; ladies' may be done in single wool. raised crochet slippers. these are to be done in two colours, say shaded blue or scarlet, with black stripes between; cast on twelve loops, crochet four rows in black, increasing one stitch on each side, and one in the middle, this will form a point on the top of the foot; then two rows of red wool, increasing; you ought to have three stripes of black, and two of coloured; leave all the stitches except twelve at the side, continue six stripes of black, and seven of coloured: will make them large enough for a lady; join the stripe to twelve stitches on the other side, sew these to a cork sole, and bind them round the top with ribbon. anti-macassar, in six shades of wool, or coarse cotton, to imitate old lace. cast on one hundred and thirty loops, crochet one plain row, then commence with four stitches in the single open crochet; make four loops, miss two of the foundation, four long stitches, four chain stitches, and so on, in the next row; be particular to make the long stitches come over the chain, and _vice versa_; one row of the double open crochet quite round, one of the single another of the double open, and then a pretty vandyke edge, if in wool, one row of each shade. shawl. these made with two coloured grounds in stripes, are very handsome; say black and white, with a pattern of two colours, four shades of each, perhaps lilacs and greens on the white ground, and french blue and scarlet on the black, with a narrow stripe of gold colour, between each stripe of the ground. cast on five loops with black, and increase one stitch at the commencement, one in the middle, and one at the end; then break off your wool, and commence at the same side, this is at the neck, and is to be done in the plain double crochet; continue in this manner until the shawl is large enough, then loop on a fringe; these must be done in double german wool, with the fringe in fleecy. watch chains. cast on five loops, and crochet round until long enough; beads may be introduced the same as on purses, which have a very pretty effect. ladies' cuffs, in shaded single wool. cast on forty-four loops, and crochet one row of single open, and one row of plain double; six rows in the same manner; then do three rows on each side, in the chain open crochet, run ribbon in and out; these have a very pretty effect; they are to be joined and done round. minerva press: printed by darling and son, leadenhall street, london. transcriber's note the following typographical errors were corrected. page error iii 1 changed to 17 iii 2 changed to 26 4 alternately, untill changed to alternately, until 6 one coloured row: changed to one coloured row; 13 _third division_--coloured changed to _third division_--coloured; 27 inrease again changed to increase again 30 eagle guage changed to eagle gauge 35 eagle guage changed to eagle gauge 44 eight, purl one: changed to eight, purl one; 48 stitches between: changed to stitches between; 48 long stitches: you changed to long stitches; you 51 piece of velvet: changed to piece of velvet; transcriber's note the illustrations were originally located after the table of contents. they have been moved to follow the patterns that they illustrate. obvious typographical errors have been corrected. a list of corrections is found at the end of the text. the corrections listed on the errata page have been made in the text. knitting, crochet, and netting, with twelve illustrations. by m^lle. riego de la branchardiere, teacher of fancy works. london: published by s. knights, 6, 'change alley, cornhill. 1846. [_registered at stationers' hall._] price 2s. 6d. printed by kelly & pritchett, 32, houndsditch, london. to lady martins, this little work is humbly dedicated, with her kind permission, by the authoress. preface the authoress, having had much experience in teaching, and always writing her own directions, has been induced to publish this little volume for the use of her pupils; and as all the receipts have been tried, she can with confidence answer for their accuracy. should any further instructions be required, she will wait upon any lady, who will apply at s. knights, 6, 'change alley, cornhill; howell and james, regent street; and at all the principal berlin shops. contents. knitting. page terms used in knitting 1 manchette or undersleeves 3 vandyke edging 4 taie d'oreiller 5 davidoff cap 6 twelve d'oyleys:- rosette pattern 8 pique pattern 9 chenee pattern 10 eglantier pattern 11 tablette pattern 12 plume pattern 12 mimosa pattern 13 lattice pattern 15 lady bruce's pattern 16 festoon pattern 17 target pattern 17 arabesque pattern 18 knitted purse 19 anti macassar 19 shetland shawl 21 vandyke edging 25 turkish pattern muff 26 pelerine 27 foot muff 29 driving mitts 31 point lace edging 32 scollop edging 35 diamond edging 37 treble diamond edging 38 fringe for d'oyleys 39 travelling cap 39 shetland scarf 40 petit point quilt or table cover 41 border for quilt 42 baby's socks 42 square shawl 44 border for shawl 45 polka 46 child's frock 49 carriage mat 51 réseau quilt 52 fringe for quilt 53 crochet. terms used in crochet 55 shepherd's crochet 57 double crochet 57 treble crochet 58 crochet in two colors 58 six round d'oyleys:- diamond pattern 59 damier pattern 60 trellis pattern 61 filet pattern 62 scollop pattern 63 seme pattern 64 fringe for d'oyleys 65 scollop for d'oyleys 65 wheel pattern insertion 65 ecaille pattern edging 66 open vandyke edging 66 close vandyke edging 67 double scollop edging 68 diamond insertion 68 cuffs, diamond pattern 69 edge for cuffs 70 crochet collar 70 round sofa pillow 71 bead crochet 72 handsome bead purse 72 bead purse 73 table cover in squares 73 bell pulls 74 greek cap 75 card case 77 bag 78 square sofa pillow 79 half-square shawl 80 another shawl 81 crochet shoes 81 sole for shoes 82 crochet open purse 82 shamrock purse 83 honey comb edging 83 anti-macassar 84 travelling bag 85 table cover 86 a chain 87 cap 88 netting. anti-macassar 89 d'oyley 90 bread basket d'oyley 90 netted purse 90 purse for a lady 91 bead purse 91 wedding purse with motto 92 plain purse with motto 93 terms used in knitting. _cast on_--make a loop on 1 pin, and with the other pin knit a plain stitch without taking it off, pass it on to the left pin and repeat. _cast off_--knit 2 stitches, pass the 1st stitch knitted over the 2nd, knit 1, turn the 2nd stitch over the last, and repeat to the end; then cut off the cotton and draw it through to fasten it. the 1st stitch of every row should be slipped. to make round after casting on 3 pins with the 4th pin, knit the 1st stitch cast on. _in purling a row_, the wool should be in front of the pin. when there are purl and plain stitches in a row, bring the cotton forward to purl, and pass it back before knitting the plain stitch. _to knit 3 together_--slip a stitch, knit 2 together, turn the slipped stitch over them, leaving but 1 stitch. _a slipped stitch_ should always be taken off the purl way. _to purl_, is to put the pin the contrary way to knitting plain; in knitting, the pin is put up the stitch, in purling it is put down. when this mark (*) occurs in a row, the stitches before it are not to be repeated in the row, being merely the edge stitches to prevent the work from decreasing; thus, when knit 3 together is in a row, the row generally begins with knit 2 together, and ends the same. _the stitch over_ in many of the patterns, is always knitted as the 1st stitch, as many patterns end with make 1, it could not be done without this stitch. many ladies in working a pattern, copy on cards each row separately; this prevents confusing one row with another. the stitches between the mark, thus (knit 2 together 3 times) are worked, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 2 together; this prevents useless repetition. the pins and meshes are all gauged by the standard or wire-drawer's gauge. _to raise stitches_--put the pin in the selvedge or side of the knitting, put the wool round the pin as in knitting, and bring it through, so as to form a stitch. _to make a stitch_--bring the wool forward between the needles. knitting. manchette or undersleeves. _in 2 colors of berlin wool._ _pins 19, 17, 11, 1 pair of each, with the colored wool cast on with 19 pins, 66 stitches._ 1st row--purl 1, knit 1. 2nd row--knit 1, purl 1. repeat these 2 rows 4 times more, making in all 10 rows, then join on the white wool, and with no. 11 pins, knit 1 plain row. 12th row--make 1, knit 2 together. repeat the last 2 rows 11 times more, making in all 24 of white; then the color, with no. 17 pins, knit the first 10 rows, join on white, with no. 11 pins, knit the 24 rows of white as before; then with colored wool, no. 17 pins, knit the first 10 rows and cast off; finish at the commencement with vandyke edge as follows. vandyke edging. _pins no. 11, white wool, cast on 6 stitches._ 1st row--slip 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together. 2nd row--make 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 4. 3rd row--slip 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 4. 4th row--plain. 5th row--slip 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together. 6th row--slip 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 4. 7th row--slip 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 6. 8th row--cast off all but 6 stitches, knit them plain, and commence at 1st row. for each sleeve 10 vandykes are required. _to make 2 stitches is to put the wool twice round the pin._ taie d'oreiller. _in shetland wool._ _this pillow is lined with pink or blue satin._ _pins 8, cast on 89 stitches, or 12 for each pattern, and 1 over._ 1st row--knit 2 together, * knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, knit 3 together, repeat from mark; at the end of this row, make 1, knit 2 together. 2nd row--purl. 3rd row--knit 2 together, * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 3 together. 4th row--purl. 5th row--knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together. 6th row--purl. 7th row--knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, knit 3 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1. 8th row--purl. 9th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 3 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1. 10th row--purl. 11th row--knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2. 12th row--purl. work until square, and finish with a vandyke edge in the same wool, and no. 10 pins. the davidoff cap. _border white with black spots, middle violet or scarlet, pins no. 8, berlin wool, cast on 116 stitches._ with white knit 4 rows plain. 5th row--black and white, knit 1 black stitch and 3 white. 6th row--3 white, bring the white forward, pass the black to the back, knit 1, bring the black forward, pass the white to the back, repeat, knit 4 rows plain of white. 11th row--black and white, knit 2 white, and repeat the 5th row. 12th row--1 white, bring the wool forward, pass the black to the back, knit 1, bring the black forward, pass the white to the back, and repeat the 6th row; repeat from 1st row once more; this finishes the border. with violet wool begin at the other end of the pins. 1st row--make 1, knit 2 together. 2nd and 3rd rows--plain. 4th row--purl. repeat these 4 rows, knitting 2 together at the beginning of every row, 12 times; cast off. with white wool, raise 120 stitches round the violet, to form the border at the back, and knit the same as the first pattern. cast off, and finish with ribbon, or cord, and tassels to match. set of twelve d'oyleys, _these patterns are suited for anti-macassars, bread d'oyleys, shawls, &c._ _pins no. 18, cotton no. 14._ rosette pattern. _cast on 73 stitches, or 8 for each pattern, and 1 at the end._ 1st row--knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, repeat, at end of row knit 1 more. 2nd row--purl. 3rd row--knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together. 4th row--purl. 5th row--knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2. 6th row--purl. 7th row--knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1. 8th row--purl. 9th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1. 10th row--purl. 11th row--knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 3 together, repeat from mark; at the end of the row make 1, knit 2 together. 12th row--purl pique pattern. _cast on 73 stitches, or 8 for each pattern, and 1 over._ 1st row--knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, at the end of row knit 1. 2nd row--purl. 3rd row--knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together. 4th row--purl. 5th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 1. 6th row--purl. 7th row--knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 3 together, repeat from mark, at end of row make 1, knit 2 together. 8th row--purl. chenee pattern. _cast on 73 stitches, or 6 for each pattern, and 1 over._ 1st row--knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, at end of row knit 1. 2nd row--make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together. 3rd row--knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together. 4th row--knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, at the end of row make 1, knit 2 together. 5th row--knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1. 6th row--knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1. 7th row--knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1. 8th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1. eglantier pattern. _cast on 73 stitches, or 8 for each pattern, and 1 over._ 1st row--knit 2 together, * knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, knit 3 together, repeat from mark, at end of these rows knit 2 together. 2nd row--purl. 3rd row--knit 2 together, * knit 1, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 1, knit 3 together, repeat from mark. 4th row--purl. 5th row--knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 3 together, repeat from mark. 6th row--purl. 7th row--knit 1, make 1, knit 2, knit 3 together, knit 2, make 1. 8th row--purl. 9th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 1, knit 3 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 1. 10th row--purl. 11th row--knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2. 12th row--purl. tablette pattern. _cast on 73 stitches, or 6 for each pattern, and 1 over._ 1st row--knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, repeat from mark, at end of row make 1, knit 2 together. 2nd row--plain. 3rd row--knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1. 4th row--plain; repeat the 2 last rows twice more, in all 6 rows. 9th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1. 10th row--plain. 11th row--knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together. 12th row--plain. repeat the 2 last rows twice more, and commence at 1st row. plume pattern. _cast on 73 stitches, or 8 for each pattern, and 1 over._ 1st row--knit 2 together, * knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, knit 3 together, repeat from mark; at the end of the row knit 2 together. 2nd row--purl; repeat these 2 rows twice more. 7th row--knit 2 together, * knit 1, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 1, knit 3 together; repeat from mark. 8th row--purl. 9th row--knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 3 together. 10th, 11th, and 12th rows--plain. 13th row--knit 1, make 1, knit 2, knit 3 together, knit 2, make 1. 14th row--purl; repeat the 2 last rows twice more. 19th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 1, knit 3 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 1. 20th row--purl. 21st row--knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2. 22nd, 23rd, and 24th rows--plain. mimosa pattern. _cast on 72 stitches, or 14 for each pattern, and 2 over._ 1st row--purl 2, knit 3 together, knit 6, purl 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1; at the end of row purl 2. 2nd row--knit 2, purl 3, knit 2, purl 7; at end of row knit 2. 3rd row--purl 2, knit 3 together, knit 4, purl 2, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1. 4th row--knit 2, purl 5. 5th row--purl 2, knit 3 together, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2. 6th row--knit 2, purl 7, knit 2, purl 3. 7th row--purl 2, knit 3 together, purl 2, knit 3, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3. 8th row--knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1. 9th row--purl 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, purl 2, knit 3 together, knit 6. 10th row--knit 2, purl 7, knit 2, purl 3. 11th row--purl 2, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, purl 2, knit 3 together, knit 4. 12th row--knit 2, purl 5. 13th row--purl 2, knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, purl 2, knit 3 together, knit 2. 14th row--knit 2, purl 3, knit 2, purl 7. 15th row--purl 2, knit 3, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, purl 2, knit 3 together. 16th row--knit 2, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9. lattice pattern. _cast on 72 stitches, or 8 for each pattern._ 1st row--knit 1, (make 1, knit 2 together twice,) knit 3. 2nd row--plain. 3rd row--knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together twice,) knit 2. 4th row--plain. 5th row--knit 3, (make 1, knit 2 together twice,) knit 1. 6th row--plain. 7th row--knit 4, (make 1, knit 2 together twice.) 8th row--plain. 9th row--knit 2, (knit 2 together, make 1 twice,) knit 2. 10th row--plain. 11th row--knit 1, (knit 2 together, make 1 twice,) knit 3. 12th row--plain. 13th row--(knit 2 together, make 1 twice,) knit 4. 14th row--plain. lady bruce's pattern. _cast on 74 stitches, or 10 for each pattern, and 4 over._ 1st row--knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1; at end of row knit 4, beside the pattern. 2nd row--purl. 3rd row--knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together; at end of row knit 4. 4th row--purl. 5th row--knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, repeat from mark; at end of row instead of knitting 3 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3. 6th row--purl. 7th row--make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1; at end of row knit 2 together, knit 2. 8th row--purl. 9th row--knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2; at end of row knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 10th row--purl. 11th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3; at end of row knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together. 12th row--purl. festoon pattern. _cast on 72 stitches, or 12 for each pattern._ 1st row--purl 1, (knit 2 together twice,) (make 1, knit 1, 3 times,) make 1, (knit 2 together twice.) 2nd row--purl 11, knit 1. target pattern. _cast on 73 stitches, or 6 for each pattern, and 1 over._ 1st row--knit 2, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1; at end of row knit 1 plain. 2nd row--plain. 3rd row--knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together; repeat from mark at end of row, make 1, knit 2 together. 4th row--plain. arabesque pattern. _cast on 69 stitches, or 13 for each pattern, and 4 over._ 1st row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, knit 3 together, knit 3, make 1; knit the last 4 stitches the same as 1st 4 every row. 2nd row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, make 1, purl 2, purl 3 together, purl 2, make 1, purl 1. 3rd row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 1, knit 3 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2. 4th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 3, make 1, purl 3 together, make 1, purl 3. finish them with fringe or scollop edging. knitted purse. _pins no. 18, coarse netting silk no. 6, steel beads, thread the beads on the silk, cast on 61 stitches._ 1st row--make 1, knit 2 together; at end of row knit 1 plain. 2nd row--make 1, slip 2 beads down close to the pin, knit 2 together; at end of row knit 1 plain. repeat these 2 rows until there are 8 inches cast off, and sew up 2-3/4 inches on each side, leaving 2-1/2 inches for the opening. the long bead tassels suit this purse best. anti-macassar _pins no. 12, cotton no. 12, cast on 118 stitches, or 19 for each pattern._ 1st row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1; at the end of every row knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together. 2nd row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 3, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 3. 3rd row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, (knit 2 together, purl 1, 3 times,) knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1. 4th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 4, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 4. 5th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, purl 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1. 6th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6. 7th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 5, make 1. 8th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 15; finish with fringe. shetland shawl. _this shawl may be worked with a colored border._ _diamond border and leaf pattern middle. pins no. 6, cast on 336 stitches._ border. 1st row--knit 5, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 6. 2nd row--plain. 3rd row--knit 4, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 5. 4th row--plain. 5th row--knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 4. 6th row--plain. 7th row--knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3. 8th row--plain. 9th row--knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2. 10th row--plain. 11th row--knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 12th row--plain. 13th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3. 14th row--plain. 15th row--knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 4. 16th row--plain. 17th row--knit 4, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 5. 18th row--plain. 19th row--knit 5, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 6. 20th row--plain. 21st row--knit 6, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 7. 22nd row--plain. repeat this pattern once more, then with a needle and thread, take 32 stitches off the pin; these stitches are to be left for the side border. with the white wool knit 272 stitches plain, leaving 32 stitches for the other side; fasten them, and commence the middle. 1st row--slip 1, knit 1, turn the slipped stitch over the knitted 1, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together. 2nd row--purl. 3rd row--slip 1, knit 1, turn the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together. 4th row--purl. 5th row--slip 1, knit 1, turn over, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together. 6th row--purl. 7th row--knit 1, * make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together; repeat from mark. 8th row--purl. 9th row--knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together, slip 1, knit 1, turn over, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1. 10th row--purl. 11th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, slip 1, knit 1, turn over, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1. 12th row--purl. 13th row--knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, slip 1, knit 1, turn over, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2. 14th row--purl. 15th row--knit 2 together, knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together, 3 times,) make 1, knit 3. 16th row--purl. repeat this pattern until the middle is square; then knit the sides the same as the first pattern, until the same length as the middle, sew them to it, and put all the stitches on 1 pin; then knit the border the same as commencement. finish with the following fringe. vandyke fringe for shetland shawl. _pins no. 9, cast on 11 stitches._ 1st row--make 1, knit 2 together 5 times, make 1, knit 1. 2nd row--plain. 3rd row--make 1, knit 2 together 5 times, make 1, knit 2. 4th row--plain. 5th row--make 1, knit 2 together 5 times, make 1, knit 3. 6th row--plain. repeat the 2 last rows until there are 9 plain stitches. 19th row--knit 2 together, make 1, 5 times, knit 2 together, knit 8. 20th row--plain. 21st row--knit 2 together, make 1, 5 times, knit 2 together, knit 7. 22nd row--plain. repeat these 2 rows until there are 11 on the pin, then repeat from 1st row; when sufficient is made in the plain row, cast off 7 stitches, leaving 4 to be pulled out for the fringe. turkish pattern for a muff. _double berlin wool, 2 colors, black and gold._ _pins no. 11, cast on 28 stitches on each of 3 pins._ 1st round--gold color, leaving the wool in front of pin, slip 1, pass the wool round the pin so as to bring it in front, purl 2 together. 2nd round--black, knit 1, (this is a black stitch,) slip 1, (a gold loop,) knit 1. 3rd round--same as 2nd; at the end of this round, take the last stitch off the right hand pin, and put it on the left; repeat from 1st round. pelerine. _double berlin wool, scarlet or blue middle, white and black border, in imitation of minerva, pins no. 6, cast on 8 stitches with scarlet._ 1st row--slip 1, knit 1, * make 1, knit 2, repeat from mark. 2nd row--purl. 3rd row--slip 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, make 1, slip 1, knit 2, turn the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted, (make 1, knit 2 twice.) 4th row--purl. 5th row--slip 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2; these are the edge stitches, and therefore not repeated in the row. make 1, slip 1, knit 2, turn the slipped stitch over, and repeat until the last 4 stitches; then make 1, knit 2 twice. repeat the last 2 rows, until there are 120 stitches on the pin, knit a purl row, next row knit the edge stitches and 15 patterns, (or 50 stitches); cast off 24 stitches, and, with another pin, finish the row. this finishes the back. the ends are then decreased in the following manner: the wool is now at the left side, leave the 50 stitches on the other pin, and work the other 50, thus: 1st row--purl, at the end of row purl 2 together. 2nd row--slip 1, knit 2, turn over, repeat the pattern to the end. 3rd row--as 1st. 4th row--the same as 2nd; at the end make 1, knit 1. repeat these 4 rows until there are but 3 stitches, cast off, and commence the other side. 1st row--purl 2 together, purl the rest. 2nd row--commence with pattern. 3rd row--same as first. 4th row--knit 2 together, and repeat pattern. repeat these 4 rows until finished. for the border, white wool, raise 180 stitches from the outside selvedge. 1st row--make 1, purl 2, repeat. 2nd row--pattern. 3rd row--purl. 4th row--pattern. 5th row--purl. 6th row--pattern. 7th row--make 1, purl 6. 8th row--make 1, slip 1, knit 2, turn over, make 1, slip 1, knit 3, turn over, repeat. 9th row--purl. 10th row--same as 8th. 11th row--purl, cast off. raise 120 stitches, with white, on the wrong side, round the neck, and work as the white border. for the tufts, cut black wool in pieces of 1-1/2 inch, take 3 pieces, and sew them alternately on the border. plaid foot muff. _scarlet, dark blue, and green 4-thread fleecy._ _pins no. 8, cast on 108 stitches in scarlet._ 1st row--plain. 2nd row--purl. 3rd row--green, purl. 4th row--blue, slip 2, knit 4. 5th row--blue, purl 4, slip 2. 6th row--blue, slip 2, purl 4. 7th row--blue, purl 4, slip 2. 8th row--green, plain. 9th row--scarlet, purl. 10th row--scarlet, purl. 11th row--scarlet, plain. 12th row--green, purl. 13th row--blue, knit 3, slip 2, knit 1. 14th row--blue, purl 1, slip 2, purl 3. 15th row--same as 13th. 16th row--same as 14th. 17th row--green, plain. 18th row--scarlet, plain. repeat until square, cast off. for the side, cast on 24 stitches, and knit sufficient to go round 3 sides of the square. for the lining. with white wool, cast 102 stitches; make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, repeat until square; work 2 pieces. cut 2 pieces of mill board the size of the square, and 1 for the side; stretch the work on 1, and cover the other with cloth, stuffed with fine combed wool, and finish with roleau and cord. driving mitts. _4 pins no. 15, 4-thread fleecy, cast on 18 stitches on each of 2 pins, and 20 on the 3rd._ 1st round--knit 2, purl 2, for 20 rounds. 21st round--plain. 22nd round--purl 1, knit 3. 23rd round--plain. 24th round--knit 2, purl 1, knit 1. the last 4 rounds form the pattern, and are worked throughout the mitts. 25th round--purl 1, make 1, knit 2, make 1, purl 1, this is for the thumb; knit the rest of round plain. knit 4 rounds, (or 1 pattern,) purling the 1st and 6th stitches. 30th round--purl 1, make 1, knit 4, make 1, purl 1, knit the rest to pattern. knit 3 rounds, and continue increasing for the thumb, every 4th round working the pattern on the thumb; continue until there are 14 stitches on the thumb, knit 2 patterns without increasing; then leave the 14 stitches, or fasten them with a needle and thread; cast on 7 stitches, and knit 5 patterns, then purl 2, knit 2 for 12 rounds, cast off, put the 14 stitches on 2 pins, take up the 7 stitches, cast on, and knit 5 rounds of pattern, purl 2, knit 2 for 12 rounds, cast off. knit the other mitt exactly the same. point lace edging. _pins no. 19, boar's head cotton 34, cast on 15 stitches._ 1st row--knit 2, make 1, (knit 2 together twice,) make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3. 2nd row--make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together. 3rd row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 4. 4th row--make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, twice,) knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together. 5th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2. 6th row--make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, (make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, twice,) make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together. 7th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, (knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, twice,) knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2. 8th row--make 1, knit 2 together, (knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, twice,) knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together. 9th row--same as 7th row. 10th row--make 1, (knit 2 together twice,) (make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 3, twice,) make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together. 11th row--knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, twice,) knit 2 together, knit 2. 12th row--make 1, (knit 2 together twice,) (make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, twice,) knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together. 13th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, (make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, twice.) 14th row--make 1, (knit 2 together twice,) (make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 3, twice,) make 1, knit 2 together. 15th row--knit 2, make 1, (knit 2 together twice,) make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3. 16th row--make 1, (knit 2 together twice,) make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together. scollop edging. _pins no. 18, boar's head cotton no. 24, cast on 8 stitches._ 1st row--knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3. 2nd row--knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 3rd row--knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 4. 4th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 5th row--the same as 1st row, knitting 1 plain stitch more. 6th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 7th row--the same as 5th. 8th row--knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together twice,) make 1, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 9th row--same as 5th. 10th row--knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together twice,) make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 11th row--same as 5th. 12th row--knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together, 3 times,) make 1, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 13th row--same as 5th. 14th row--knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together, 3 times,) make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 15th row--same as 11th. 16th row--knit 2, knit 2 together, (make 1, knit 2 together, 3 times,) knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 17th row--same as 9th. 18th row--knit 2, knit 2 together, (make 1, knit 2 together, twice,) knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 19th row--same as 7th. 20th row--knit 2, knit 2 together, (make 1, knit 2 together, twice,) knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 21st row--same as 5th. 22nd row--knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 23rd row--same as 3rd. 24th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. diamond edging. _pins no. 17, boar's head cotton no. 20, cast on 7 stitches._ 1st row--make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 2nd row--plain. 3rd row--make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2. 4th row--plain. 5th row--make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2. 6th row--plain. 7th row--make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 8th row--plain. 9th row--(make 1, knit 3 together, twice,) make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 10th row--plain. 11th row--make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 12th row--plain. treble diamond edging. _cast on 7 stitches, pins no. 17, cotton no. 20._ 1st row--knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 2nd row--make 1, knit 2 together, knit the rest plain. 3rd row--knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2. 4th row--same as 2nd. 5th row--knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2. 6th row--same as 2nd. 7th row--knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2. 8th row--same as 2nd. 9th row--knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1. 10th row--same as 2nd. 11th row--knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 3 together, knit 2 together. 12th row--same as 2nd. fringe for d'oyleys. _pins no. 19, double cotton, cast on 8 stitches._ 1st row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together. all the rows are the same; when finished, cast off 5 stitches, leaving 3 to be pulled out for the fringe. travelling cap. _2 colors, double berlin wool, pins no. 8, cast on 121 stitches._ 1st row--colored, purl. 2nd row--plain. 3rd row--purl. 4th row--white, purl. 5th row--make 1, knit 2 together. repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more. 13th row--colored, purl. 14th row--purl. 15th row--plain. 16th row--white, purl. 17th row--knit 2 together, make 1. repeat the 2 last rows 3 times more; work from 1st row once more; there will now be 4 ribs of colored: this is for the front. commence at the other end of the pin, and knit 4 colored ribs; this will make the pattern come on the wrong side. knit 96 stitches, leaving 25 on the pin, turn back, knit 71, turn back, leaving 25 on the other side; knit 6 ribs of 71 stitches, then put all the stitches on 1 pin, and knit 4 ribs all along; cast off, draw up the ends, and finish with cord and tassel. shetland scarf. _pins no. 7, cast on 145 stitches._ work the rosette, eglantier, or lattice pattern, as in d'oyleys, and finish with same fringe. the first and last quarter of a yard looks well in 6 shades of wool. petit point quilt. _or table cover._ _pins no. 5, double berlin wool, shaded and plain white. with the white cast on 116 stitches for each yard; if larger, any even number of stitches._ 1st row--shaded wool, knit 1, bring the wool forward, slip 1, pass the wool back. 2nd row--purl 1, pass the wool back, slip 1, bring the wool forward. 3rd row--white, same as 1st row. 4th row--white, same as 2nd row. repeat these 4 rows until the required length, cast off, and finish with the following border for quilt. _measure the 4 sides of the work; cast on with white wool 188 stitches for each yard, and 18 for every 4 inches more._ 1st row--purl. 2nd row--plain. 3rd row--shaded wool, (knit 2 together, 3 times,) (make 1, knit 1, 5 times,) make 1, (knit 2 together, 3 times,) knit 1. 4th row--purl. 5th row--same as 3rd. 6th row--purl. 7th row--same as 3rd. 8th row--white, purl. repeat from 1st row 4 times, knit 1 row, purl 1 row; cast off, and sew on to quilt. baby's socks. _pins no. 17, berlin wool, pink and white. with pink cast on 34 stitches._ knit 6 rows, making a stitch at the beginning of every row; then 10 rows, making a stitch every other row; this increase is for the toe. knit 6 rows plain, knit 13 stitches at the toe, turn back, and knit 18 rows of 13 stitches; leave them on the pin, and with a third pin, and white wool, commence at the other side. knit a plain row, turn back, make 1, knit 2 together, to the end. next row, plain; turn back, make 1, knit 2 together, for 16 stitches, leaving 16 on the pin; turn back, make 1, knit 2 together to the end, and repeat the 2 last rows 16 times. cast on 16 stitches; next row make 1, knit 2 together, to the end, or 32 stitches; 1 plain row; then with the colored wool that was left at the 13 stitches knit a plain row on, the 32 stitches of white; knit 6 rows plain; then 10 rows, knitting 2 together every other row at the toe; and 6 rows, knitting 2 together at the beginning of every row: cast off. for the leg, white wool raise 16 stitches from the colored part, and 12 from the white piece across; knit the 16 stitches left on the pin; there will now be 44 stitches on the pin. pattern: make 1, knit 2 together; 3 rows plain; repeat for 8 patterns, and cast off. then, with colored wool, cast on 9 stitches, knit 5 rows, and cast off; draw the slanting part together, and sew this piece in. square shawl. _pins no. 6, double berlin or 4-thread fleecy, cast on 325 stitches._ 1st row--knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1; at the end of row knit 1 plain. 2nd row--purl. 3rd row--make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2. 4th row--purl. 5th row--knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together. 6th row--purl. 7th row--knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 3 together, repeat from mark; at the end of row, make 1, knit 2 together. 8th row--purl. work until square. border. _in two colors._ _cast on 359 stitches._ with white, or any color that accords well with the middle, knit 6 rows plain, knitting 2 together at the end of each row. 7th row--same color as middle, knit 4, slip 2; at the end of these rows knit 2 together. 8th row--purl 4, slip 2. 9th row--knit 3, slip 2, knit 1. 10th row--purl 3, slip 2, purl 1. then with white 6 rows plain, knitting 2 together at the end. 17th row--with the color, knit 2, slip 2, knit 2; at the end of these rows knit 2 together. 18th row--purl 3, slip 2, purl 1. 19th row--knit 1, slip 2, knit 3. 20th row--purl 2, slip 2, purl 2. white; knit 6 rows, knitting 2 together at the end. 27th row--slip 2, knit 4. 28th row--purl 1, slip 2, purl 3. 29th row--knit 1, * knit 4, slip 2; repeat from mark. 30th row--slip 2, purl 4. with white knit 6 rows, cast off. work 4 pieces the same, sew them on to the shawl, and finish with a knotted fringe. polka. _for a child._ _pins no. 9, double berlin wool, or 4-thread fleecy, cast on 252 stitches with white._ 1st row--make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together; this is the stitch throughout the polka. knit 32 rows, join on the color, and knit 16 rows; then knit 51 stitches, knit 3 together, work on with pattern for 144 stitches, knit 3 together, finish the row with pattern. next row knit 51 stitches, make 1, slip 1, knit 3 together, knit 145 stitches, make 1, slip 1, knit 3 together, finish the row with pattern. knit 24 rows. knit 51 stitches, and knit 3 together, knit 142 stitches of pattern, knit 3 together; finish the row with pattern. next row knit 51 stitches of pattern, make 1, slip 1, knit 3 together, knit 139 stitches of pattern, make 1, slip 1, knit 3 together; finish with pattern. knit 24 rows; decrease as above, knitting 6 less in the middle. knit 24 rows; decrease again. knit 10 rows. knit 51 stitches of pattern, then knit 1, knit 2 together, to within 51 stitches of the end; finish with pattern. next row, after knitting the 51 stitches, make 1, slip 1, knit 3 together, within 51; there will now be 168 stitches on the pin. knit 36 rows. knit the 51 stitches, leave them, and with another pin, cast off 9 stitches for the arm hole, knit 48 stitches of pattern, cast off 9 stitches; leave the fronts on the pins, and knit 40 rows; then knit 3 together, finish the row in pattern. at the end of the next row, knit 3 together. knit 3 rows. knit 3 together at the end of the next row. knit 12 rows. knit 3 together at the end. knit 12 rows. knit 3 together. cast off the back. for the fronts, knit 40 rows, knit 3 together at the arm hole; at the end of next row, knit 3 together. knit 8 rows, decrease again, knit 8 rows, decrease, knit 8 rows, decrease, knit 2 rows, decrease as before; cast off 6 stitches at the front, decrease at the arm hole. next row, cast off 3 stitches, decrease at the arm hole, and cast off. knit the other front the same. sleeve. _cast on 72 stitches._ knit 70 rows of pattern. 71st row--knit 54 stitches, turn back. 72nd row--knit to the end. 73rd row--knit 51 stitches, turn back. 74th row--knit to the end. 75th row--knit 42 stitches, turn, knit to the end. 77th row--knit 36 stitches, turn, and knit to the end. 79th row--knit 33 stitches, turn, and knit to the end. 81st row--knit 30 stitches, turn, and knit to the end. then knit 22 rows all along; cast off. collar. _cast on 144 stitches._ with white, knit 24 rows; join on the color, knit 6 rows. 31st row--knit 129 stitches, turn back, and knit to within 15 stitches of the other end; turn back, knit till within 21. next row, the same; turn back, knit till within 30. next row, the same, knit till within 33. next row, the same, knit till within 36. cast off. for the side border and cuffs, cast on 15 stitches with white, and knit the length of the color. child's frock. _for a child 3 or 4 years of age._ _pins no. 5, berlin wool, 6 shades of each color, and white. with the darkest shade, cast on 348 stitches._ pattern--make 1, knit 2 together, knit 4. all the rows are the same. knit 2 rows of each shade, and 12 of white; 12 shaded, 12 white, 12 shaded; knit the rest white until long enough. body. _cast on 90 stitches._ with the 6th shade, knit the pattern to the lightest shade, and 4 rows of white; then knit 15 stitches of pattern, cast off 12 stitches. with another pin knit 36 stitches, turn back, and knit 8 rows of 36 stitches; this is for the front. for the back: on the side where the stitches were cast off, knit 8 rows of white; on the other side, cast off 12 stitches, knit 8 rows; put all the stitches on 1 pin again, and with the lightest shade, work to the darkest. for the sleeves. _cast on 36 stitches with the darkest shade._ knit to the lightest, then 16 of white; cast off. sew the skirt to a band, and round the neck and sleeves with a vandyke edging as 2nd receipt. carriage mat. _no. 4 pins, 8-thread fleecy, or 4-thread doubled, border white with black spots, and scarlet or orange middle. with the white cast 73 stitches; cut a skein of white and black in pieces of 6 inches._ 1st row--knit 1, take 2 pieces of the cut wool, white, put them on the left pin, and cross them, so as to bring 1 end in front, and 1 at the back; then with the right hand pin, knit the loop and a stitch together, bring the end at the back forward between the pins. 2nd row--plain. 3rd row--slip the 1st stitch, and repeat the 1st row. 4th row--plain. 5th row--the same as the 1st row, putting on 1 black loop and 6 white, alternately. 6th row--plain. repeat from 1st row once more; in the 5th row, put on 2 white loops before commencing the pattern, to bring the black spots in a diamond. then commence the middle; knit in 7 loops of white, 22 of color, and 7 of white. repeat until the middle is square, and knit the white to correspond with the beginning. when finished, it must be sent to be sheared and combed. réseau quilt. _pins no. 9, 6-thread fleecy, pink and white; cast on 192 stitches with white._ 1st row--pink, having wool in front, slip 1, make 1, by turning the wool round the pin, purl 2 together. 2nd row--with white, at other end of pin, knit 1, slip 1, (this is a pink loop,) knit 1. 3rd row--slip 1, purl 2. 4th row--with pink, at the other end, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together. 5th row--white, knit 2, slip 1. 6th row--slip 1, purl 2. repeat from 1st row. finish with knitted fringe. _cast on 12 stitches, with doubled wool._ 1st row--make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2; all the rows are the same. knit 12 rows of each color; when finished cast off 7 stitches, leaving 5 to be pulled out for the fringe. terms used in crochet. _to make a chain_--make a loop, and draw the wool through it. _to commence a row_--put the needle in the side of the 1st stitch, bring the wool through, and work a chain stitch. after the 1st row, there is always a stitch at the side. _miss a stitch_--pass over 1 of the row before. _to increase_--work 2 stitches in 1. _to decrease_--miss a stitch. in crochet that is worked square, at the end of a row, cut the wool off, and draw it through to fasten it; begin at the other end. _in the chain_--put the needle through the loop formed by the chain stitches, in the row before, instead of in a stitch. crochet. shepherd or single crochet. _this stitch is usually worked round, for cuffs, muffatees, boots, &c. &c._ make a chain, join it, keep the loop on the needle. 1st round--put the needle in the 1st chain stitch, draw the wool through; there will now be 2 loops on the needle; draw the last loop through the 1st. in the 2nd and following rounds, take the 1st part of the chain on the needle. plain, double, or french crochet. make a chain. after commencing the row, put the needle in a stitch of the chain, draw the wool through; there will be 2 loops on the needle. take the wool on the needle again, and draw it through the 2 loops. at the end, cut the wool off, draw it through, and begin at the other end. treble crochet. make a chain. after commencing the row, put the wool round the needle, put the needle in a stitch of the chain, draw the wool through; there will be 3 loops on the needle. take the wool on the needle again, draw it through 2 of the loops; take up the wool again, and draw it through the 2. this is 1 stitch. crochet. _in two colors._ this is always worked in plain crochet. lay the color not wanted along, and work over it. in changing the color, draw it through before finishing the stitch, when there are 2 loops on the needle. six crochet d'oyleys, round. _these d'oyleys are very beautiful._ _boar's head cotton, no. 16, or berlin wool, in plain, open, and treble crochet._ diamond pattern. _make a chain of 8 stitches, and join it._ 1st round--1 treble 3 chain stitch in every chain stitch. 2nd round--3 treble, 3 chain, miss 1. 3rd round--5 treble, 3 chain, miss 1. 4th round--7 treble, 3 chain, miss 1. 5th round--9 treble, 3 chain, miss 1. 6th round--miss 2, 7 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 2 chain. 7th round--miss 2, 5 treble, 3 chain, miss 2, 3 treble, 3 chain. 8th round--miss 3, 3 treble, 3 chain, miss 3, 5 treble, 3 chain. 9th round--miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 7 treble, 2 chain. 10th round--3 treble, 2 chain, miss 3, 3 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 5 treble, 2 chain, miss 2. 11th round--5 treble, 2 chain, 5 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 3 treble, 2 chain, miss 2. 12th round--7 treble, 2 chain, 7 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 3 chain, miss 2. damier pattern. _make a chain of 9 stitches._ 1st round--2 plain in every stitch. 2nd round--3 chain, miss 1, 1 plain. 3rd round--3 chain, miss 2, 1 plain. 4th round--3 chain, miss 3, 3 plain in 1 of the round before. 5th round--3 chain, miss 3, 2 plain in 1, 2 plain. 6th round--4 chain, miss 3, 2 plain in 1, 3 plain. 7th round--4 chain, miss 4, 2 plain in 1, 4 plain. 8th round--1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1. 9th round--8 chain, 3 plain, miss 4. 10th round--plain. 11th round--6 chain, miss 9, 2 plain; the 2 plain are in the middle of the 8 chain in the 9th round. 12th round--10 plain, and 2 in the 11th stitch. 13th round--3 treble, 3 chain, miss 2. 14th round--4 chain, miss 3, 3 treble. 15th round--4 treble, miss 3, 4 chain. trellis pattern. _a chain of 12 stitches._ 1st round--3 chain, and 1 plain in every stitch. 2nd round--3 chain, 1 plain; the plain stitch in the middle of the 3 chain, in the last round. 3rd round--5 chain, 1 plain; the plain stitch in the middle. 4th round--same as 3rd. 5th round--6 chain, 1 plain. 6th round--treble. 7th round--2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble. 8th round--2 treble in 1, miss 3, 2 chain; the 2 chain over the 2 in last row. 9th round--same as 8th. 10th round--2 treble in 1, miss 3, 3 chain. 11th round--2 treble, miss 3, 4 chain. 12th round--same as 6th. filet pattern. _chain of 7 stitches._ 1st round--9 chain, 1 plain in every stitch. 2nd round--7 plain, miss 3. 3rd round--6 chain, miss 5, 2 plain; the 2 plain in the middle of the chain in 1st round. 4th round--3 plain, and 2 plain in the 4th stitch. 5th round--3 plain, 6 chain, miss 1. 6th round--plain. 7th round--5 chain, miss 7, 2 plain in the chain of last round. 8th round--plain. 9th round--5 chain, miss 2, 1 plain. 10th round--5 chain, miss 7, 1 plain in chain of last round. 11th round--same as 10th. 12th round--same as 10th. 13th round--5 plain, miss 1. 14th round--2 treble, 2 chain, miss 1. scollop pattern. _make a chain of 9 stitches._ 1st round--1 treble, 1 chain, in every stitch. 2nd round--2 treble, putting the needle through the chain of round before, 2 chain. 3rd round--3 treble in the chain of last round, 3 chain. 4th round--5 treble in the chain, 2 chain. 5th round--7 treble in the chain, 1 chain. 6th round--10 chain, miss 7, 1 plain in the middle of the 7 treble in last round. 7th round--1 treble, 1 chain, in every stitch for 8 stitches, miss 3. 8th and 9th rounds--1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1. 10th round--3 plain, 6 chain, miss 5. 11th round--1 chain, miss 1, 1 plain, 1 chain, miss 1, 6 treble. 12th round--1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1. seme pattern. _make a chain of 9 stitches._ 1st round--2 plain in every stitch. 2nd round--3 chain, 2 treble. 3rd round--4 chain, 2 treble in 1, miss 4. 4th round--2 treble in 1, 2 chain, miss 2. 5th round--2 chain, miss 2, 2 treble. 6th round--2 treble in 1, 3 chain, miss 3. 7th round--1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1. 8th round--2 treble in 1, 2 chain, miss 3. 9th round--3 treble in 1, 1 chain, miss 3. 10th round--3 treble in 1, 2 chain, miss 3. 11th round--3 treble in 1, 3 chain, miss 4; the treble stitches in the chain of the last round. fringe for d'oyleys. _cut a skein of cotton in pieces of 3 inches._ put the needle in a stitch of the work, take 2 pieces of the cotton, fold them on the needle, draw them through, and draw the ends through the loop, pull it tight. knitting cotton, no. 12, is the best for the fringe. scollop for d'oyleys. _to be worked on the d'oyleys._ 1st round--7 chain, miss 3, 5 plain. 2nd round--1 treble, 1 chain for 7 stitches, 1 chain, miss 2, 1 plain, 2 chain, miss 2. wheel pattern insertion. _boar's head cotton no. 20, fine steel needle, make a chain of 500 stitches for each yard._ 1st round--5 treble stitches in 1, 1 chain, miss 1, 1 plain, 1 chain, miss 1. 2nd round--turn the work so as to work in the chain on the other side; work the same as 1st row, the 5 treble in the same stitch as the 5 treble on the other side. ecaille pattern edging. _boar's head cotton no. 34, fine steel needle, make a chain of 500 stitches for each yard._ 1st row--1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1. 2nd row--3 chain, miss 1, 5 plain. 3rd row--6 chain, miss 5, (this over the 3 chain in the last row,) 3 plain, in the middle of the 5 plain in last row. 4th row--8 chain, miss 8, 1 plain in the middle of the 3 plain in the last row. open vandyke edging. _chain and cotton as last receipt._ 1st row--treble. 2nd row--the same. 3rd row--1 plain, 4 chain, miss 1. 4th row--1 chain, 1 plain; the plain stitches are always in the middle of the chain in last row; 4 chain, miss 5, 1 plain, 4 chain, miss 5, 1 plain, 4 chain, miss 5, 1 plain; turn back, so as to work on the 4th row. 5th row--1 chain, miss 1, 1 plain, 4 chain, miss 5, 1 plain, 4 chain, miss 5, 1 plain; turn back. 6th row--1 chain, miss 1, 1 plain, 4 chain, miss 5, 1 plain. work 6 shepherd's stitches down the side of vandyke, so as to bring the thread to the 3rd row: this forms 1 vandyke. repeat from 4th row. close vandyke edging. _commence as last receipt._ 1st row--1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1. 2nd row--2 chain, 5 treble; turn back, so as to work on 2nd row. 3rd row--2 chain, miss 1, 3 treble, turn back. 4th row--2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain; work 6 shepherd stitches to bring the cotton to the 2nd row. commence from 2nd row. when all the vandykes are worked, finish with a row of 3 chain, miss 2, 3 plain, all round them. double scallop edging. _commence as before._ 1st row--1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1. 2nd row--3 chain, miss 3, 3 treble. 3rd row--3 plain, 7 chain, miss 3. 4th row--1 chain, 1 plain, 1 chain, miss 1, (1 chain, 1 plain, 7 times.) 5th row--the same as 3rd, except the 3 plain stitches are to be worked in the middle of the last scollop. 6th row--same as 4th. diamond insertion. 1st row--treble. 2nd row--1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 3 treble, 2 chain, miss 2. 3rd row--2 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble. 4th row--same as 2nd. 5th row--same as 1st. cuffs. _diamond pattern._ _make a chain of 85 stitches, boar's head cotton no. 20._ 1st row--1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 9 treble, 2 chain, miss 2; at the end of these rows, 1 treble, 2 chain, beside the pattern. work backwards and forwards. 2nd row--2 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 7 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble. 3rd row--3 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 5 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 2 treble. 4th row--4 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 3 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 3 treble. 5th row--5 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 4 treble. 6th row--same as 4th. 7th row--same as 3rd. 8th row--same as 2nd. 9th row--same as 1st. edging for cuffs. _to be worked on._ 1st row--1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1. 2nd row--treble. 3rd row--same as 1st. 4th row--2 treble in the chain stitch of last row, 2 chain, 2 plain in the 2 chain of last row, 5 chain; work the same on the other side. work down the side of the cuff plain, working 7 chain stitches for button holes. crochet collar. _make a chain of 120 stitches, no. 14 cotton._ 1st row--1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1. 2nd row--2 chain, 1 plain, miss 1. 3rd row--1 plain, 3 chain; the plain stitch is always in the middle of the chain in the row before. repeat the 3rd row 10 times. then 1 row, 5 chain, 1 plain, miss 4. finish with a small cord and tassels. round sofa pillow. _double berlin wool, make a chain of 100 stitches, work it backwards and forwards. shaded wool, colors violet, green, scarlet, blue, and orange._ 1st row--violet, 1 chain, 3 treble in 1, miss 3. work 5 rows more the same, always working the 3 treble stitches in the chain stitch of the row before; then 6 rows of green, 6 of scarlet, 6 blue, 6 orange, and commence at 1st row. the size must be according to the pillow it is to cover, about 16 inches. bead crochet. thread the beads on the silk, and pass a bead down before working the stitch; this is always worked on the wrong side. handsome bead purse. _with square ends, pattern no. 1, middle size netting silk, colours ponceau white, shaded green, and no. 5 steel beads. make a chain of 80 stitches._ with ponceau make it round, and work 2 rounds plain; then 5 rounds of pattern in ponceau, 5 in white, 14 in shaded green, 5 in white, 5 of ponceau, 8 rounds plain ponceau, and 34 rows backwards and forwards, for the opening, working 3 bead stitches at the beginning and end of every other row; make it round again, work 3 plain rounds, repeat pattern. finish the ends with a fringe of steel beads. [illustration: 1] bead purse. _pattern no. 4._ _colours white and shaded blue, gold or steel beads, no. 5. make a chain of 88 stitches white._ make it round; work 2 rounds plain, and 3 rounds, putting a bead on every stitch, shaded blue; work the star pattern; then 3 rounds in beads with white, 6 rounds plain, and 34 rows backwards and forwards for the opening, working 3 bead stitches at the beginning and end of every other row; make it round, and repeat the pattern. finish with a fringe of beads. [illustration: 4] table cover. _in squares, plain crochet._ _each square is a different color in berlin wool; colors violet, green, scarlet, stone, blue, and orange, 6 shades of each color and black; work 2 rounds of each shade. make a chain of 8 stitches with the lightest shade._ 1st round--work 2 stitches in 1. 2nd round--3 stitches in 1, 3 plain. 3rd round--3 stitches in 1, 5 plain. 4th round--2nd shade, 3 in 1, 7 plain. 5th round--3 stitches in 1, 9 plain. 6th round--3rd shade, 3 in 1, 11 plain. 7th round--3 in 1, 13 plain. 8th round--4th shade, 3 in 1, 15 plain. 9th round--3 in 1, 17 plain. 10th round--5th shade, 5 in 1, 19 plain. 11th round--3 in 1, 21 plain. 12th round--6th shade, 3 in 1, 23 plain. 13th round--3 in 1, 25 plain. 14th round--black, 3 in 1, 27 plain. 15th round--3 in 1, 29 plain. this finishes 1 square. work all the colors the same; when sufficient are made, crochet them together with black. a small pattern may also be worked in each square. bell pulls. _pattern no. 2._ _in double berlin wool, the ground claret, 4 shades of green, and 3 of orange; make a chain of 50 stitches for each quarter of a yard._ 1st row--orange. 2nd row--2nd shade. 3rd row--3rd shade. 4th row--claret. 5th row--darkest green and claret; work the first row of pattern with the green. 6th row--2nd shade of green and claret. 7th row--3rd shade of green and claret. 8th row--4th shade of green and 2nd shade of orange. 9th row--4th shade of green, 3rd shade of orange. 10th row--same as 7th. 11th row--same as 6th. 12th row--same as 5th. 13th row--same as 4th. 14th row--same as 3rd. 15th row--as 2nd. 16th row--as 1st. [illustration: 2] greek cap. _patterns nos. 3 and 9._ _coarse netting silk, and gold twist._ _ground black, 3 shades of ponceau, 3 of green, 4 of orange; make a chain of 7 stitches with black._ 1st round--2 stitches in 1. 2nd round--1 ponceau, lightest shade, 1 ponceau, 2 black in 1. 3rd round--2 ponceau in 1, 2 black. 4th round--2 ponceau in 1 ponceau, 2 black. 5th round--2 ponceau in 1, 2 ponceau, 2 black. repeat the 2 last rounds, working 1 ponceau more each round until there are 102 stitches; 3 rounds of black, 4 plain, 2 in the 5th stitch; 3 rounds of gold, thus--1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, 1 black round plain, next round black, 4 plain and 2 in 1 in the 5th stitch, then work the pattern with black ground. 1st round--darkest green and black. 2nd round--2nd shade of green and black. 3rd round--3rd shade of green and black. 4th round--darkest ponceau and black. 5th round--2nd shade and black. 6th round--3rd shade and black. 7th round--darkest blue and black. 8th round--2nd shade and black. 9th round--3rd shade and black. 10th round--darkest orange and black. 11th round--2nd shade and black. 12th round--3rd shade and black. 13th round--4th shade and black. 14th round--plain black. 15th round--black, 4 plain and 2 in 1 in the 5th stitch. this finishes the increase; it will now be 22 inches round; repeat the gold rounds and the pattern until within 2 inches of the finish; then work the 3 rounds of gold, 1 round of ponceau; then pattern no. 9 in the gold on ponceau ground. if required larger, it must be increased before the 2nd pine pattern in the black rounds. [illustration: 3] [illustration: 9] cigar or card case. _pattern no. 4._ _middle sized silk, shaded scarlet and blue no. 6, steel and gold beads. make a chain of 10 stitches in scarlet._ 1st round--2 stitches in 1. 2nd round--1 plain, 2 in the 2nd stitch. 3rd round--2 in the 3rd stitch, repeat the last round, working 1 stitch more until there are 128 stitches; thread on the scarlet 3 rows of steel beads; work 3 rounds, putting a bead on every stitch; thread the gold beads on the blue; work 1 plain round; then commence the star pattern; after the pattern 1 plain row; thread three rows of steel beads on the blue, and work three rounds a bead on every stitch; then work the star pattern in scarlet and gold beads; work another piece the same. it is then made up on a frame. bag. _in treble open crochet._ _colors, white, blue, and gold twist._ _make a chain of 140 stitches._ pattern, 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, work 3 rounds of each color for 5 inches, and finish with cord and tassels to match. square sofa pillow. _pattern no. 5. berlin wool._ _make a chain of 160 stitches, or 100 for double berlin wool. colours, 4 shades of green, 4 of scarlet, 4 of stone, and white._ 1st pattern--open crochet, 3 treble, 3 chain, miss 3. 1st row--darkest green. 2nd row--3rd shade of green, working the 3 treble stitches in the 3 chain of the last row. 3rd row--2nd shade of green. 4th row--1st shade of green. 2nd pattern, no. 5. 1st row--darkest stone and darkest scarlet. 2nd row--3rd shades of stone and scarlet. 3rd row--2nd shades of stone and scarlet. 4th row--1st shades of stone and scarlet. 5th row--white. this is the ground of the stripe. 6th row--1st shade of green and white. 7th row--2nd shade and white. 8th row--3rd shade and white. 9th row--4th shade and white. 10th row--same as 9th. 11th row--same as 8th. 12th row--same as 7th. 13th row--same as 6th. 14th row--as 5th. 15th row--as 4th. 16th row--as 3rd. 17th row--as 2nd. 18th row--as 1st. then work the open pattern again, and repeat until square. [illustration: 5] half-square shawl. _plain crochet. double chené wool of various colors and black. make a chain of 3 stitches._ 1st row--work 2 stitches in 1 at the beginning of the row; work the rest plain at the end of the row; leave 7 inches of wool for the fringe. in commencing a row the ends must be worked under for a few stitches. pattern--1 row black and 2 chené. increase until there are 350 stitches; then loop in a fringe to correspond with the other side. another shawl. _3 shades of violet, 3 of stone, and white._ increase as the last, and work 1 row of each shade. crochet shoes. _berlin wool, pattern no. 6._ the shoes must be worked from a paper pattern the size required. commence at the toe, and increase by working 2 stitches in 1 at the beginning and end of the row until sufficiently deep. for the sides work about a third of the front. gold color and french blue for the ground, and 3 shades of each for the pattern. 1st row--2 stitches of blue and 2 of gold. 2nd row--gold. 3rd row--gold and dark blue. 4th row--2nd shade of blue and gold. 5th row--3rd shade of blue and gold. 6th row--gold color, repeat from 1st row. the next pattern the same, except the ground is blue, and the spots shades of gold. [illustration: 6] sole for shoes. _6 thread black fleecy._ _make a chain of 8 stitches._ 1st row--1 row plain. this is not repeated. 2nd row--take both sides of the chain on the needle and work according to shape, working it backwards and forwards. crochet purse. _2nd size netting silk, 2 colours. no. 6 steel beads. make a chain of 120 stitches._ 1st row--1 treble, 1 chain, pass a bead down, miss 1; work 2 rows of each colour for 6 inches. shamrock purse. _pattern no. 8._ _in close crochet, fine silk; colors, green, violet, and white; steel and gold beads, no. 5. make a chain of 150 stitches with white; thread the steel beads upon the white._ work 3 rows the same as in last receipt, then with green and gold beads, work the pattern; then 3 rows of white, with steel beads, as before, and with violet and gold beads, work the pattern again. three stripes of each color form the purse. [illustration: 8] honeycomb edging. _make a chain of 480 stitches for each yard. boar's head cotton no. 24._ 1st row--10 chain, miss 5 (1 plain, 3 chain, miss 1, 4 times), 1 plain. 2nd row--1 treble, 1 chain in the 3 chain of the row before; repeat 6 times, 1 chain (1 plain, 3 chain, miss 4, 3 times), 1 plain, 1 chain. 3rd row--1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, 7 times, 1 chain (1 plain, 1 chain, miss 4, twice), 1 plain, 1 chain. 4th row--1 plain and 3 treble in every treble stitch of the last row; then 1 chain, 1 plain, 3 chain, 1 plain, 1 chain. anti-macassar. _boar's head cotton no. 10, or knitting cotton no. 12. make a chain of 145 stitches. work backwards and forwards._ 1st row--4 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 3 treble; at the end, work 1 treble, 2 chain, beside the pattern. 2nd row--3 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 2 treble. 3rd row--2 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble. 4th row--1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, (1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, 3 times,) 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2. 5th row--same as 3rd. 6th row--same as 2nd. 7th row--same as 1st. work 24 inches. finish with double scollop edging. travelling bag. _pattern no. 7._ _in double berlin wool, 5 shades of scarlet, 4 shades of stone, 4 shades of couleur de bois, light green, black, white, and shaded blue. make a chain of 150 stitches._ 1st row--black and darkest bois, 2 stitches of each. 2nd row--2nd shade and black. 3rd row--3rd shade, plain. 4th row--4th shade and green, 21 stitches of green, and 3 of bois, lightest shade. 5th row--white and 1st shade of scarlet, 21 white, and 3 scarlet. 6th row--2nd shade of scarlet, 1st shade of stone; 3 stone, 15 scarlet, 3 stone, 3 scarlet. 7th row--2nd shade of stone, 3rd shade of scarlet; same as 6th row. 8th row--3rd shade of stone, 4th shade of scarlet; same as 7th row. 9th row--4th shade of stone, 5th shade of scarlet. 10th row--same as 9th. repeat the colors back again, ending with a plain row of the darkest couleur de bois, and the 2 rows of 2 stitches; then 6 rows of shaded blue; work until there are 18 inches. finish with a clasp. [illustration: 7] table cover. _pattern no. 9._ _berlin wool. make a chain of 350 stitches in single wool, or 200 in double, for each 1/2-yard. colors--4 shades of crimson, green, and violet; ground--black and shaded orange._ 1st row--black. 2nd row--lightest crimson and black. 3rd row--2nd shade crimson and black. 4th row--3rd shade and black. 5th row--4th shade and black. 6th row--dark green and black. 7th row--2nd shade and black. 8th row--3rd shade and black. 9th row--4th shade and black. 10th row--white and black. 11th row--lightest violet and black. 12th row--2nd shade of violet and black. 13th row--3rd shade and black. 14th row--4th shade and black. then 1 row of black, and 6 rows of shaded orange. a chain. _fine brown braid._ wind the braid in 2 balls, join them together, and make a loop; then, holding the 2 braids over the 4th finger, work a chain stitch with each of the braids alternately, until 1 yard and a 1/4 long. fasten it with a steel slide. cap. _in berlin wool shaded, and floss silk. make a chain of 120 stitches._ pattern--1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1. work 12 rows, leaving 1 stitch at the beginning and end of every row, to decrease it; work a row all round, and then commence the border. 1st row--work 3 chain stitches, miss 1, 1 plain. 2nd row--the same. 3rd row--5 chain, miss 4, 1 plain; the plain stitch in the middle of the chain of last row. 4th row--same as 3rd for a 3rd of the row; break the wool off. 5th row--6 chain, miss 6, 1 plain, for a 3rd of the row. work the other side the same; then a row of the floss silk, the same as the 5th, all along. finish with a ribbon for the back and ends. netting. anti-macassar. _as pattern no. 10._ _mesh no. 6, cotton no. 12, foundation 70 stitches._ net 120 rows. for the fringe, with double cotton, and a mesh 2 inches wide, net 2 stitches in 1 all round; it is then embroidered thus--thread a rug needle with the cotton, and begin in the corner; take 1 thread, and miss 1, twice, as in darning; work 5 threads in each; then work the contrary way, forming a vandyke. work 2 rows in this manner; then count the middle stitch of the work, and make a diamond, same as the border. various patterns may be worked in this manner, but they are impossible to describe. [illustration: 10] d'oyley. _mesh no. 8, cotton no. 12, 34 stitches._ net 53 rows. fringe--mesh 1 inch wide, 2 stitches in 1, all round. embroidered as anti-macassar. bread basket d'oyley. _mesh no. 6, cotton no. 12, 50 stitches._ net 126 rows. fringe as d'oyley. netted purse. _for a gentleman._ _mesh no. 15, coarse netting silk, 90 stitches._ net 8 inches; join up 34 stitches on each side, leaving 22 for the opening. this purse takes 4 skeins of silk. lady's purse. _mesh no. 16, 3 skeins of 2nd size purse silk, 70 stitches._ net 8 inches, join up 26 stitches on each side, leaving 18 for the opening. bead purse. _mesh no. 14, coarse silk, and no. 7 beads 3 bunches, 60 stitches; measure 1 yard and a 1/4 of silk, thread a small sewing needle with it._ 1st row--net the 1st stitch, thread 2 beads, pass them close to the last stitch; net the stitch, and continue putting 2 beads in every stitch. 2nd row--the same, keeping the 2 beads on the outside. work 7 inches, join up 22 stitches on each side, leaving 16 for the opening. wedding purse. _with motto no. 11._ _extra fine white netting silk, and no. 4 gold beads; meshes nos. 6, 16, and 19; 65 stitches._ with no. 16 mesh net 7 rows. no. 6 mesh, net 3 stitches in 1. no. 19 mesh, net 3 plain rows. no. 6 mesh, net 1 row. no. 16 mesh, net a row, netting 3 stitches together every stitch; repeat. net 7 rows. repeat this pattern twice more. in the next pattern, instead of working the 3 rows with no. 19 mesh, work the motto no. 2. with no. 19 mesh, net 1 plain row, net 62 stitches, and then begin the motto; finish the row plain. then cut the silk off, commence at the other end, and work the second row of motto; at the end of this row, cut the silk off, and knot the 2 ends together, to prevent losing a stitch. after the motto is finished, net 1 plain row, and repeat the first pattern 3 times. the beads are put on in the following manner,--thread a bead, (with a small needle,) net 1 stitch, pass the silk under the mesh, put the needle through the bead, bring the silk in front again; this brings the bead on the knot. [illustration: 11 _sia felice_] another purse. _with motto no. 12._ _fine silk, brown or blue, mesh no. 18, no. 5 steel beads, 90 stitches._ net 4 inches plain. then commence the motto, putting the beads in as former receipt. net 25 stitches, net the first row of motto, finish the row plain; cut the silk off, and commence at the other end. net 4 inches plain, to correspond with the other side. [illustration: 12 _memoria_] london: printed by kelly & pritchett, 32, houndsditch. errata. page 45, in 9th row, for slip 1, read _slip 2_. page 45, in 19th row, for purl 1, read _knit 3_. page 59, in 1st round, for 1 treble, read _1 treble 3 chain_. page 62, in second round, for 7 chain, read _7 plain_. transcriber's note the following typographical errors were corrected: page error 2 are all guaged changed to are all gauged 2 wire-drawer's guage changed to wire-drawer's gauge 18 knit 2 together changed to knit 2 together. 18 69 stitches, or 12 changed to 69 stitches, or 13 18 3rd row knit 3 together, knit changed to 3rd row knit 3 together, knit 1, 19 long bead tassells changed to long bead tassels 64 10th rouud changed to 10th round 66 miss 1, 5 plain, changed to miss 1, 5 plain. 73 fringe of beads changed to fringe of beads. 77 round of ponceau: changed to round of ponceau; 81 2 of gold, changed to 2 of gold. 84 1 chain, miss 4 twice changed to 1 chain, miss 4, twice 87 14th row--4 changed to 14th row--4th 89 a vankyke. changed to a vandyke. handbook of wool knitting and crochet [illustration] published by needlecraft publishing company augusta, maine 1918 * * * * * [illustration: handbook of crochet] _you can crochet the most fascinating things imaginable if you have this_ handbook of crochet by emma chalmers monroe this book is equally appreciated by beginner or expert. it contains most valuable information and instructions for everyone who crochets or wishes to learn to do this beautiful work. it embodies a very careful selection of designs; and, from the simplest to the most ornate, every successive step is explained and illustrated so fully that perfect results are a certainty. it describes the making of the newest designs for the ever popular use of crochet and gives instructions and patterns for edgings, borders, scarf-ends, insertions, yokes, lunch-sets, doilies, etc. the book has twenty-eight pages (size 7×10 inches) and 44 illustrations. it is printed on a fine quality of paper with the cover in colors. your copy of emma chalmers monroe's handbook of crochet will be sent you, prepaid, upon receipt of 12 cents, stamps or coin. it can be obtained only from us. needlecraft augusta--maine handbook of wool knitting and crochet a lesson in knitting [illustration: figure 1. casting on with two needles] the first thing to be done in knitting is to cast on or, as it is sometimes called, to "set up the foundation." (figure 1). there are several methods for this, the following being that preferred and generally used by the writer: leave a spare end of thread, sufficient for the number of stitches you wish to cast on, lying toward the left, the spool or ball from which the working-thread is drawn being at the right. lay the thread between the little finger and the third of the left hand; bring the working-thread across the palm of the hand, around the thumb and back between the forefinger and second finger; bend the forefinger over this thread (which passes between it and the second finger), pass it under the thread which crosses the palm of the hand, and then draw the forefinger back, or straighten it, which will give you a loop with crossed threads. put the needle under the lower part of this loop, which draws from the ball, bring the working-thread (or ball-thread) around the point of needle from right to left, as in plain knitting, draw it back through the loop, slip off the latter, and draw up the left thread. then proceed to make the crossed loop and knit it off in the same way for the next and following stitches. the whole operation is very simple, although the instructions seem long because explicit. take your needle and yarn or thread and follow them through carefully, and you will very soon master the "crossed casting on." another method, preferred by many and practically the same in effect, except that the edge is not quite so firm, is as follows: loop the thread around the left forefinger, holding the spare end between thumb and second finger, pass the needle upward through the loop, pass the thread around the point, draw back through the loop, slip off the latter and pull up the spare thread. by passing the needle under the loop, or lower thread, instead of through it, bringing it back through, and then knitting off, you will really get the crossed loop, and many find this method easier than the first. the thread used in casting on may be doubled, particularly for beginning a stocking, mitten, or any article where much wear comes. casting on may also be done with two needles, and many like this method when there are many stitches. twist a loop around the needle held in the left hand, bring the end of thread, or spare thread, to the front, crossing the working-thread to hold it in place--or, if preferred, simply tie a slip-knot and put the loop on the left needle; insert the right needle through this loop from left to right, put thread around point of right needle and draw through the loop, bringing the right needle again in front of left. thus far, the process is quite like that of plain knitting. keeping the right needle still in the new stitch or loop, transfer the stitch to the left needle by bringing the latter in front and putting the point through the loop from front to back, leaving the right needle in place for the next stitch; the loops are not slipped off, as in knitting plain, but transferred, so that all are kept on the needle. a little practise will enable one to cast on thus very rapidly and evenly. [illustration: figure 2. knitting plain] the plain knitting (figure 2), is done as follows: having cast on the requisite number of stitches, insert the right needle through the front of left needle from left to right, the right needle passing behind the left; carry the thread around point of right needle and bring it down between the two needles, then draw the point of right needle back and through the stitch, forming the new stitch on right needle and letting the other slip off the left, pushing down the point of left needle to facilitate this process; repeat until all the stitches are knitted off and the row is complete. where there are edges to be joined, as in knitting back and fronts of a sweater, it is a good plan to slip the first stitch of each row. right here a suggestion about the method of holding the thread may be of value: by the first method the thread is carried over the little finger of right hand, under second and third fingers and over the tip of the forefinger, which should be held close to the work; it is this finger which passes the thread over point of right needle for the new stitch. by another method the thread is carried over the left forefinger, under second and third and over the little finger, exactly as it is held for crocheting: insert the right needle through 1st stitch on left needle in usual way, push it over the thread on left forefinger, and draw this back through the stitch with the point of right needle. only the needle is held in the right hand, and many workers claim that the work is much more rapidly done. [illustration: figure 3. purling] the purlor seam-stitch (figure 3) is the exact reverse of plain knitting, both as to method of work and appearance, being in reality the wrong side of plain knitting. in the latter the thread is kept at the back of the work; for purling, bring it to the front between the two needles. put the point of right needle through the front of 1st stitch on left needle from right to left, the right needle being thus brought in front of the left; pass the thread around the front of right needle from right to left and back between needles, then push down the point and draw the loop backward through the stitch, instead of forward, as in plain knitting, the right needle being thus brought behind the left. slip off the old stitch as usual, and take care to return the thread to its place at the back before beginning to knit plain again. [illustration: figure 4. garter-stitch, or ridge-stitch] garter-stitch, so called (figure 4) is simply plain knitting back and forth, which gives the effect of ridges, one row knit, the next purled. this is a stitch much used for sweaters, and other knitted garments. if one wishes to have the right side appear as in plain knitting, the 1st row must be knitted plain, the next purled. since one is the reverse of the other, the right side will be plain knitting, the wrong side purled. [illustration: figure 5. the double rib] the rib-stitch is alternately plain and purled. to knit the single rib, * knit 1, purl 1; repeat. for double rib, (figure 5,) * knit 2, purl 2; repeat; and for triple-rib, * knit 3, purl 3; repeat. any width of rib may be made that is liked, always taking care--unless knitting in rounds, as a wristlet, mitten or stocking--to knit the stitches purled on the preceding row, and purl the knitted ones. there are a large variety of fancy patterns made by combining plain knitting and purling, such as the basket-stitch and others, of even or broken "check." there are many variations of the simplest stitches; for example, the common garter-stitch gives a particularly good effect if knitted from the back. put the needle in from right to left, through the back part of the stitch to be knitted; leave the thread behind the needle, then pass it from right to left over the needle and draw it through the stitch, allowing the latter to slip off as in plain knitting. in this stitch the two threads of the loop are crossed, instead of lying side by side as in plain knitting. [illustration: figure 6. making "overs"] "overs" (figure 6) are used in all lace patterns, and many times in fancy designs for wool knitting. to make an "over" bring the thread before the needle as if to purl, then knit the next stitch plain as usual. this brings a loop over the needle, which in the next row is to be knitted as any stitch, thus increasing the number of stitches in the row. in case it is not desired to increase the stitches, one must narrow, by knitting two stitches together, once for every "over." if a larger hole is wanted, the thread is put twice over the needle, and in the following one of these loops is knitted, the other purled. to "purl-narrow," or purl two together, bring the thread to the front as for purling, then to form the extra stitch, carry the thread back over the needle and to the front again; then insert the right needle through two stitches instead of one, and knit them as one stitch. "fagot" is an abbreviation frequently used for this. [illustration: figure 7. binding off] to slip and bind, slip 1st stitch from left needle to the right needle, without knitting it; knit next stitch, then draw the stitch on right needle over the knitted one, letting it fall between needles. to slip, narrow and bind, slip first stitch, knit next two together, and draw the slipped stitch over. to cast off or bind off, (figure 7,) slip 1st stitch, knit next, draw slipped stitch over, knit next stitch, draw the previous knitted stitch over, and continue, taking care that the chain of stitches thus cast off be neither too tight nor too loose, but just as elastic as the remainder of the work. a sleeveless sweater [illustration: a sleeveless sweater] a sleeveless sweater, as pretty as it is comfortable, requires six skeins of shetland floss and a pair of no. 5 amber needles. pink floss was chosen for the model, but any preferred color may be substituted. cast on 85 stitches; knit in basket-stitch, as follows: 1. * knit 5, purl 5; repeat across, ending with knit 5. 2. purl 5, knit 5; repeat across, ending with purl 5. repeat these two rows twice, making 6 rows in all; then to change the check knit 7th row like 2d, 8th like 1st, repeat twice, and again change the check by repeating from 1st row. continue until the border is five checks deep, or 30 rows. knit across plain and purl back for 84 rows; narrow 1 stitch each side every other row, three times, for the armhole, leaving 79 stitches on your needle, and giving 89 rows from the border. knit across plain and purl back for 38 rows; putting these stitches on a large safety-pin for convenience, knit 31, bind off 17 stitches for neck, and on the remaining 31 stitches, knit 6 rows back and forth, or 3 ribs, to give the effect of a seam on the shoulder. continue the front, knitting across and purling back, adding a stitch toward the front each time to make the neck v-shaped, for 38 rows; then add 1 stitch at the armhole, and next row cast on 8 stitches for underarm. do not widen further toward the front, but continue knitting forward and purling back for 85 rows; then make the border of 30 rows, five checks wide, to correspond with the back, and bind off. knit the other front to correspond. pick up the stitches around armhole, 80 in all, and knit 5, purl 5 for 6 rows, making an edge of checks; bind off. pick up the stitches on front, to the center of back of neck, about 175 in all, make a row of checks to correspond with the arm, and bind; work a border in the same way on other side of front, and sew neatly at back of neck, also join the underarm seams, taking care to match the checks of the border perfectly. for the belt: cast on 25 stitches, and proceed as directed for the border until you have the desired length; the belt illustrated is 42 checks long. across one end crochet 3 chain loops, filling these with doubles, and sew to the other end three pearl buttons to match. the belt is caught along the top in the back, giving the short-waisted effect. costume for the winter-girl [illustration: costume for the winter-girl] materials: thirteen skeins of shetland floss (dark rose was used for the model, but any preferred color may be substituted), three balls of gray angora, one pair each of bone knitting-needles, no. 3 and no. 5, and a steel crochet-hook, no. 6. for the sweater: using no. 5 needles, cast on for the back 100 stitches (these will measure 20 inches). knit plain, back and forth (which will give you ridges or ribs) for 2 inches; then decrease a stitch at each end of needle every 8th row, to shape the back, until there are 76 stitches on the needle, measuring 15 inches (this is the waistline); knit on these stitches for 9½ inches from the waistline, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every other row for 3 times, or until 70 stitches remain, and knit on these stitches until the back measures 15½ inches from the waistline. knit 25 stitches off on a spare needle, bind off 20 stitches for back of neck, and on the other 25 stitches knit one front after the following directions, and the other to correspond. front: knit in ridges as usual, increasing 1 stitch toward the front every other row until you have added 6 stitches; cast on 7 stitches more toward the front, giving 38 stitches on the needle; knit in ridges, increasing 1 stitch toward armhole every other row until 12 stitches have been added, then cast on 10 stitches toward the underarm, making 60 stitches on the needle (about 12 inches). knit on the 60 stitches for 9½ inches, then increase 1 stitch every 8th row toward the underarmor side-seam, until the latter is of the same length as that of the back, including the 2 inches. do not bind off. knit other front to correspond and sew up side-seams. with a needle pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on front (have an uneven number of stitches on needle), and on another spare needle pick up the stitches across the back; on another pick up the stitches of front, having the same number of stitches on needle; tie a thread in 1st stitch on needle at bottom of each front, toward the front, which will be the corner stitch. 1. with bone needles no. 5 start at top of left front, knit 1, * over, narrow, repeat from * to the corner stitch, over, knit the corner stitch, again repeat from * to next corner, over, knit corner stitch, repeat from * until but 1 stitch remains, over, knit last stitch. 2. knit plain, each "over" forming a stitch to take the place of narrowed one. 3. knit to corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, knit to next corner stitch, over, knit corner stitch, over, and knit plain to end of row. repeat 2d and 3d rows until there are 4 ridges or 9 rows from the beginning. in next row make the buttonholes thus: knit 2 stitches from the neck, bind off 4 stitches for the buttonhole, then knit 13, bind off 4, and repeat, making 8 buttonholes 13 stitches apart. in next row cast on 4 stitches over where they were bound off, then repeat 2d and 3d rows for 4 more ridges, and bind off. sleeves.--cast on 34 stitches (about 7½ inches); knit in ridges, casting on 2 stitches at each end of needle every other row until there are 74 stitches on needle (about 15 inches), knit 1 inch, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every 12th row until there are 56 stitches remaining on needle, knit on these until the sleeves measure 17 inches, or desired length, (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) twice, knit 13 ridges for cuff, then with gray angora and no. 3 needles knit 7 ridges, bind off, and sew up sleeves and cuffs. collar.--using the dark rose pick up 84 stitches around neck of sweater (not the border), knit 30 ridges; do not bind off. with a spare needle pick up 1 stitch from each ridge on each end of collar; with gray angora and no. 3 needles repeat 3d and 2d rows alternately for border until there are 7 ridges, and bind off. pockets.--cast on 28 stitches; knit in ridges for 4 inches, change to angora and no. 3 needles, knit 7 ridges, making a buttonhole in 4th ridge at center of pocket, bind off and sew the pocket neatly in place on the sweater. sew the sleeves in. belt.--with dark rose cast on 23 stitches (about 4½ inches), knit in ridges until the belt is the width of the back at waistline, bind off and sew in place with two buttons at each side. buttons.--with dark rose, chain 3, turn; miss 1 stitch, 8 doubles in next; 2 doubles in each of 8 doubles; * 2 doubles in 1st double, 1 in next; repeat from * until the circle is of a size to cover the mold, work 1 row without widening, slip the mold in, * work around with 1 double in a stitch, miss 1, repeating from last * until closed. if preferred, a small square may be knitted like the body of the sweater and used to cover mold. the skating-cap is 23 inches head-size, and requires three skeins of the dark-rose floss, two balls of gray angora wool and 4 steel needles no. 8. using the angora wool, cast on 136 stitches; knit 45 on each of 2 needles and 46 stitches on the 3d, and knit in single rib (knit 1, purl 1) in rounds for 1½ inches, change to the rose floss and knit in single rib for 1 inch; change to angora, again knit in single rib for 1½ inches; change to rose floss and knit in single rib until the top measures 14½ inches, then bind off and draw together, leaving sufficient opening for the tassel to be sewed in. tassel.--using the rose floss, cut about 40 strands 8 inches long, tie in the center, fold where tied and tie again below. sew the tassel at top of cap. scarf.--materials required are four skeins of dark rose shetland floss, two balls of gray angora wool, and one pair each of no. 3 and no. 5 bone knitting-needles. with gray angora wool and no. 3 needles cast on 60 stitches, and knit 7 ridges; change to rose floss and no. 5 needles and knit 7 ridges, change to angora wool and no. 3 needles, and again knit 7 ridges, change to rose floss and no. 5 needles and knit for 50 inches, or length of scarf desired; then, as at beginning, knit 7 ridges of angora, 7 ridges of rose and again 7 ridges of angora; bind off. knitted gloves.--materials required are three skeins of shetland floss, and four steel knitting-needles, no. 12. use two threads of the floss at once. cast 16 stitches on each of 3 needles. knit in single rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 44 rounds, or until the wrist is as long as desired, then knit 16 rounds plain. 61. knit to within 4 stitches of end of round, widen 1, knit 4, widen 1. 62, 63, 64, 65. knit plain. repeat the last 5 rounds, increasing 2 stitches every 5th round until you have 10 stitches between the two widening points, and 58 stitches on the needles. to form the thumb, knit 7 stitches on each of 2 needles and cast on 4 stitches between the widening points, thus making 18 stitches on 3 needles. knit 22 rounds plain. * narrow, knit 1; repeat around; knit 1 round plain; repeat from *. narrow until the thumb is closed, draw the wool through, and leave an end to fasten down on the wrong side. pick up the 4 stitches cast on at base of thumb, making 48 stitches on the hand. knit 15 rounds, then divide the stitches as follows: slip 24 stitches on one knitting-needle for top of hand starting from the 3d cast-on stitch at beginning of thumb, and the remaining 24 stitches for palm of hand on another needle. first finger: knit 6 stitches from top of hand, slip remaining 18 stitches on a safety-pin, also 18 stitches from palm of hand on another safety-pin, cast on 3 stitches for between fingers, knit remaining 6 from palm of hand, making 15 stitches in all, on these knit 30 rounds, and finish off as directed for the thumb. second finger: knit 7 stitches from back of hand, cast on 3 stitches, knit 6 stitches from palm of hand, and pick up 3 stitches cast on at base of first finger, making 19 stitches on needle; * knit 1 round plain; knit to last 2 stitches of round, which will be 2 of the stitches picked up, narrow; repeat from * twice, and on the 16 stitches remaining knit 28 rounds more, 34 rounds in all; narrow off like the thumb. third finger: knit 6 stitches from safety-pin at top of hand, cast on 3 stitches, knit 6 from palm of hand, and pick up 3 stitches at base of second finger, making 18 stitches in all; knit 1st 6 rounds as directed for 2d finger, knit 25 more rounds on remaining 15 stitches, and narrow off as thumb. fourth finger: knit 5 stitches from back of hand on 1 needle, 6 stitches from palm on another, pick up 3 stitches at base of 3d finger on 3d needle, knit 26 rounds on the 14 stitches, then narrow off as the thumb. these directions are for the left glove. knit the right glove in same way to where you divide the stitches for the fingers; then remember that the palm of the glove must be toward you, the thumb on the right-hand side. so you would first knit 6 stitches from palm, cast on 3, and knit 7 from back of hand, reversing directions as given for left glove. children's knitted sets set no. 1 [illustration: set no. 1] hood.--cast on 80 stitches, and knit back and forth for 70 rows, or 35 ribs; then join the color and knit 6 ribs, and bind off evenly. sew up the edge where you cast on for the back of the hood. fold the border back its width, and pick up the stitches across end of this and the 6 ribs back of it on the body of hood, then the stitches around neck and the other side of border, knit 3 ribs, then in next row, knit 4, over, narrow, and repeat, ending with knit 3. this row forms the holes for the cord. knit back plain, knit 3 more ribs and bind off. the hood may be of any desired size by casting on any number of stitches, and knitting just half that number of ribs. scarf.--cast on 30 stitches (or 35 for a little wider scarf); knit 14 ribs of blue, 3 of gray, 2 of blue, 1 of gray and 2 of blue; then knit 34 inches of gray, 2 ribs of blue and continue with the other end as at first, reversing the order. knot fringe of the two colors in at each end. sweater.--cast on 60 stitches, and knit 2, purl 2 (or double rib) for two inches. knit plain for 100 rows (or 50 ribs, if you knit back and forth; the model was knitted forward and purled back, to give the work the appearance of plain knitting on the right side). cast on 42 stitches for sleeve, knit back and cast on 42 stitches for the other sleeve; knit 30 rows on this length, then take 65 stitches off on an extra needle, bind off 14 stitches for neck, and on the remaining 65 stitches work 12 rows; then cast on 13 stitches toward the front and on this length knit 28 rows, bind off 42 stitches for the sleeve, work 18 rows on the remaining stitches, slip these on an extra needle, work the other front to correspond, slip all the stitches on one needle, knit until the front is as long as the back, and finish with the double rib for two inches; bind off evenly. using the color, pick up the stitches at the end of sleeve and knit back and forth for 12 rows; bind off. sew up the sleeves and underarm seams and turn back the cuffs. for the collar pick up the stitches around the neck, knit 8 rows of gray, then 6 rows of color, and bind off. work around edge of collar and down the front opening with double crochet, 1 chain between; lace up the front with cord, ends finished with balls or tassels. set no. 2 [illustration: set no. 2] jacket.--cast on 52 stitches and knit 60 rows or 30 ribs; cast on 26 stitches for sleeve, knit back and cast on 26 stitches for the other sleeve. knit 34 rows, then knit 43 stitches, bind off 18 stitches for the neck, knit remaining 43 stitches, and on these continue with the front. knit 6 rows, then continue knitting back and forth, adding a stitch at the end of each row toward the front for 22 rows, which will give 11 extra stitches; knit 6 rows without widening, then bind off 26 stitches, and knit remainder of front to correspond with the back. knit the other front in same way, sew up sleeves and underarm seams, work around the neck with double crochet, in color, 1 chain between, and around the body of the jacket with shells of three trebles in a stitch, miss space of two ribs; repeat. with the gray make 2 trebles, picot of 3 chain caught in last treble and 1 treble around neck, and between 1st and 2d trebles of shells around body of jacket. finish edge of sleeves in the same way, and run in cord and balls. for the hood.--cast on 64 stitches, knit 28 ribs, then 2 ribs of color and 2 of gray; bind off, sew up the back of hood where cast on, finish around the neck with double crochet, space of 2 chain between, using color, work the shells around front of hood, and finish with the shells of gray, as for jacket. run in the cord, with balls of the two colors of yarn. the cords may be done in plain crochet, the ordinary chain or, as preferred because stronger, knotted by what is called the "fool's delight" method, although why named thus it is impossible to say. surely it seems a very sensible way: take a length of yarn six times as long as the cord is wanted; make a slip or half knot at one end and pass the other end down through it to form a loop, then tie the ends of yarn together. hold this knot between thumb and forefinger of one hand, say the right, with the yarn which pulls through the knot under the same hand, and the loop which was formed held on the forefinger; hold the yarn which does not pull in the left hand, pass the forefinger of the left hand through the loop on right forefinger from front to back, catch up and pull through the non-pulling or left-hand thread--exactly as you would make a chain-stitch in crochet--transfer the knot (which ties the two ends together) to the thumb and forefinger of left hand, keeping the loop over forefinger, and draw up the pulling yarn. now the position of the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in the left hand as formerly in the right. continue by passing the forefinger of right hand through the loop, catching up the non-pulling thread and drawing it through to form the new loop (on right hand again), transfer the knot and pull up. this is really a sort of double chain, and when one has learned to make it evenly and well, it will be found superior for bags, lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or cord. a serviceable sweater [illustration: a serviceable sweater] use fourfold germantown zephyr and a pair of no. 5 needles, with one pair two sizes smaller. as the sizes or numbers of needles vary, and also do methods of knitting, it is a good plan to work a little block before beginning the pattern. cast on, say, 12 stitches, knit across and purl back, repeating these two rows until you have a square. there should be 5 stitches to the inch in width, and seven rows should make an inch in length. if you get less, use larger needles, say no. 6. it is also a good plan to practise on the pattern a little, so that you will become familiar with it and can narrow or widen and still keep the ridge. cast on any number of stitches divisible by four, with one stitch over, knit 2, purl 2, until but one stitch remains, and knit that. all rows are the same, the odd stitch breaking the rib and making a ridge. when you come to the decreasing later you can tell whether you are keeping the pattern correct, by watching the knitted stitch, which forms a sort of chain right on top of the ridge, and must be kept throughout. left front: cast on 65 stitches on the larger needles and knit 12 rows plain for the band at lower edge. 13. knit 10 (these stitches are for the plain border up the front), * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from *, knitting last stitch. 14. slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from *, knitting last 10. repeat these two rows until you have 110 rows in all. 111. knit 2, narrow, knit 6; finish row in pattern. 112. in pattern until 9 stitches remain, knit these. 113. knit 2, narrow, knit 5; continue in pattern. 114. in pattern, knitting last 8 stitches. 115. knit 2, narrow, knit 4; continue in pattern. 116. like 114th, knitting 7 at end. 117. knit 2, narrow, knit 3; continue in pattern. 118. like 114th, knitting last 6. 119. knit 2, narrow, knit 2; continue in pattern. 120. bind off 3, knit in pattern to within 5 stitches of end, knit these. 121. knit 2, narrow, knit 1; continue in pattern. 122. like 120th row, knitting 4 at end. 123. knit 2, narrow; continue in pattern. 124. like 120th row, knitting 3 at end. 125, 127, 129. like 123d row. 126, 128. bind off 1, knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit these. 130. knit in pattern until 3 stitches remain, knit these. continue to work until you have completed the 171st row, doing the odd rows like the 123d and even rows like 130th, when you should have 23 stitches on the needle. from this point work until you have completed the 183d row, increasing at beginning of 172d, 176th and 180th rows by knitting in the back, then in the front of the 2d stitch. you should then have 20 stitches on the needle. knit one plain row (the 184th) and bind off. right front: begin like left front, doing 12 plain rows. 13. knit 10, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * to end, knitting last stitch. 14. knit 2, purl 2, repeat until 11 stitches remain, purl 1, knit 10. repeat last two rows until you have 27 rows in all. 28. knit as usual until you have the 10 border stitches remaining, knit 3, bind off 3, knit 4. 29. knit 4, cast on 3, knit 3, and continue as usual. this forms the buttonhole. make five buttonholes at equal distances apart, and begin the narrowing for collar in the 11th row, continuing like left front. back: cast on 79 stitches and knit 12 rows plain; then work in the pattern until you have 120 rows in all, which brings the work to the armhole. 121. bind off 2 stitches and knit remainder as usual, taking care to keep the pattern. repeat this row seven times, when you will have taken 8 stitches from each side. knit 48 rows in pattern on the remaining 63 stitches. 177, 178. knit in pattern until within 7 stitches of the end; turn, leaving these stitches on left-hand needle without knitting. 179, 180. knit in pattern to within 13 stitches of the end (including the 7 stitches previously left), turn. 181, 182. knit in pattern to within 19 stitches of end, turn. 183. knit 4, narrow, (knit 5, narrow) twice, knit rest plain, to end of needle. 184. knit plain entirely across, and bind off. sleeves. cast on 97 stitches. 1. knit 40, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 3 times, purl 1, turn. 2. slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 4 times, knit 1, turn. 3. slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 5 times, purl 2, knit 1, turn. 4. slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 7 times, knit 1, turn. 5. slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 8 times, knit 3, turn. 6. slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 10 times, knit 1, turn. 7. slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 11 times, purl 2, knit 1, turn. 8. slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 13 times, knit 1, turn. 9. slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * 14 times, knit 3, turn. 10. slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 16 times, knit 1, turn. 11. slip 1 knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * 17 times, purl 2, knit 1, turn. 12. slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * until but 7 stitches remain, turn. 13. like 12th row, leaving 4 stitches at end. 14. slip 1, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat to end, knitting last stitch. 15. slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat to end, knitting last stitch. continue to knit in pattern, decreasing at beginning and end of every 8th row until 73 stitches remain, then knit without decreasing until you have 120 rows, counting from the 15th row. take the smaller needles and commence the cuff on the sleeve-stitches as follows: slip 1, (narrow, knit 2) 3 times, (narrow, knit 1) 14 times, narrow, knit 2, to end of row. repeat last 3 rows until you end with 2 stitches and bind off. pockets.--with the larger needles cast on 23 stitches. 1. knit 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * across, ending with knit 2. 2. slip 1, * purl 2, knit 2, repeat, ending with purl 1, knit 1. 3. slip 1, * knit 2, purl 2, repeat, ending with knit 2. repeat last two rows until you have 32 rows in pattern, then knit 10 rows plain for top of pocket and bind off. to make up the coat, first press the border of fronts; stretch into shape, pin to an ironing-board, cover with a damp cloth and press with a fairly hot iron until the cloth is dry. this will prevent the coat from drawing up, as the ribs are inclined to do. for sewing, use a blunt-pointed needle to avoid splitting the wool. sew up the side and shoulder-seams, taking a stitch from each edge and keeping the edges perfectly even, being careful not to draw the sewing-yarn so tightly as to pucker the seam in the least. sew up the sleeves, and place the sleeve-seam an inch to the front of the side-seam, easing in any fulness there is around the top. place the center of collar at center of back before sewing on; this must be done on right side of coat, and the collar turned over. sew on the pockets, matching the ridges, and sew on five pearl or bone buttons, about three-fourths of an inch in diameter, to correspond with the buttonholes, placing a small pearl button at the back of the larger one on wrong side of coat and sewing through both together. this coat measures twenty-six inches from shoulder to hem. it may easily be made longer, if desired, but the model is an excellent one for ordinary wear, and very "natty," and it has the merit of being quickly knitted. as has been suggested, a good way to do, when knitting a sweater in any stitch, is to have a pattern and work to fit that. first, have a coat cut from any old cloth, and of any style desired. seam it up and try it on, having it fitted nicely, then cut along the seam and take apart. fasten the different parts on a smooth surface by means of thumbtacks and knit to measure, without stretching your work. ladies' sweater [illustration: ladies' sweater] this sweater requires five skeins of knitting-worsted, and four balls of angora; electric blue for the body of the garment, and gray angora were combined in the model, but other colors may be chosen at pleasure. the work is done in plain knitting, back and forth, with ribbed belt. with the knitting-worsted and no. 5 needles, cast on 119 stitches for the back, which will measure about twenty-four inches, and knit 48 ribs, or 96 rows. next row, * narrow, knit 4; repeat from *. then change to no. 12 steel needles and do 20 rows in triple rib (knit 3, purl 3) for the belt. change to no. 5 needles and knit 20 ribs; then decrease 1 stitch at end of needle every other row five times. knit 29 ribs plain, or without decreasing. next row, knit 34 stitches, slip them on to a spare needle, bind off 21 stitches for neck, and on the remaining 34 stitches, knit 4 ribs; then cast on 30 stitches at the neck, knit 29 ribs, increase 1 stitch at armhole every other row five times, and knit 22 ribs plain. change to the steel needles, and work the belt as directed for the back, (purl 3, knit 3,) starting from front edge. having completed the belt--20 rows of triple rib--change to no. 5 needles; * knit 4, increase 1 stitch, repeat from *. then knit 48 ribs and bind off on the wrong side. knit the other front to correspond, omitting buttonholes if these are used. for the sleeve: working on right side of sweater, pick up 1 stitch on each rib around the armhole, 72 stitches in all; knit 8 ribs, then decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every 8th rib, eight times. change to steel needles and knit 12 ribs for the wrist; change to the larger (no. 5) needles, * knit 4, narrow; repeat across, then knit 12 ribs, join the angora, knit 7 ribs, and bind off. collar: using no. 5 needles and the knitting-worsted, cast on 65 stitches; knit 28 ribs. join the angora wool, knit 11 rows, increasing 1 stitch at each end of needle every other row, and bind off. working on right side of collar pick up 1 stitch on each rib at the side, knit 11 rows, increasing 1 stitch every other row toward the corner and keeping the neck edge even, and bind off. make the other side of collar to correspond and sew up the mitered corners. the border of angora wool may be as much wider as one chooses to make it by adding more rows or ribs. two large buttons covered with the knitting-worsted--either knitted or crocheted--and furnished with a loop sewed on each side, are used to fasten the belt. for the buttons: using a bone hook which will carry the yarn, make a chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain make 8 doubles; in next round make 2 doubles in each stitch, working in both veins so there will be no rib; then make 1 double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat. continue to work around and around until you have a circle which will cover the button-mold--5 rounds in all were required for top of buttons used on model, work around without widening, slip in the mold, then * miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until the cover is closed. if preferred, knit a tiny square as you did the body of the garment; and use this to cover the mold, drawing it snugly over, and fastening underneath. for the loop, make a chain of 30 stitches, turn and make a double in each stitch; fasten securely beneath the button. ladies' knitted gloves with fancy backs [illustration: ladies' knitted gloves with fancy backs] use no. 16 steel needles, with spanish knitting-yarn or worsted. cast on 57 stitches. 1. purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat twice. 2. purl 2, knit 13, purl 2, knit 6; repeat. 3. purl 2, slip and bind, knit 9, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat. 4. purl 2, slip and bind, knit 7, narrow, purl 2, knit 6; repeat. 5. same as 4th row. 6. purl 2, slip and bind, (over, knit 1) 5 times, over, narrow, purl 2, take 3 of the 6 stitches off on a separate needle, hold this at back of work, knit next 3 stitches, then knit the 3 on separate needle; repeat. continue in pattern, twisting the "cable" as directed every 6th row, until the wrist is seven patterns in length. then carry one cable up back of hand, with an openwork stripe each side, and knit plain across palm. commence thumb at top of wrist. as the gloves are right and left, care must be taken in starting the thumb so that both will not be for the same hand. on the left-hand glove the thumb is started at right of the stripe, on the right-hand glove at the left of stripe. begin thumb with widen, knit 1, widen; knit 3 rows as usual, then widen, knit 3, widen; continue in this way until you have widened the thumb to 17 stitches. put these on 2 needles, on a 3d needle cast on 7 stitches, join and knit once around, in each of next 3 rounds narrow 1 of the 7 stitches, arrange the stitches evenly on 3 needles, knit two inches, then narrow at end of each needle until you have 6 remaining, put these on 2 needles and bind off. continuing with the hand, pick up the 7 stitches cast on at base of thumb, knit to the base of the little finger, and divide the stitches on 2 needles, or, if more convenient, take them off on a twine. for the little finger: take 8 stitches from back needle and 8 from front, and cast on 6 stitches, knit once around plain, narrow off 1 of the 6 stitches in each of next 5 rounds, knit 2 inches, narrow 1 stitch at end of each needle until 6 stitches remain, put these on 2 needles and bind off. first finger: pick up the 6 stitches cast on for little finger, knit to the middle, take 8 stitches from each side next the thumb, cast on 6 stitches for inside of finger, knit once around plain, in next 4 rounds narrow off 1 of the 6 stitches, knit two and one-half inches, and finish off as before. third finger: pick up the 6 stitches cast on for first finger, knit them, knit plain, leaving 9 stitches toward little finger, putting these on separate needle, 9 stitches from other side, cast on 6 stitches, knit until you get to those left for little finger, narrow 1 of these and 1 of the 6 each time around for 6 rounds, knit two and one-half inches, and finish off as directed. middle finger: pick up the 6 from last finger, knit around plain, proceed as directed for third finger, knit two and three-fourths inches plain and finish off. knitted slippers with ermine trimming [illustration: knitted bedroom-slippers with ermine trimming] materials required are three skeins fourfold germantown yarn, two colors, and one yard of ribbon. pink and white yarn, with a little black, and pink ribbon are used for the slippers illustrated. cast on 15 stitches with white yarn, using medium-size steel needles. knit back and forth until you have a perfect square of white, then join the color. the square is for the toe of slipper. knit back and forth on the 15 stitches until you have a strip long enough to extend around the sole of slipper and join to the square on other side, leaving two sides and one corner for the toe. darn the white with black; beginning at lower right-hand corner, bring the needle through the first two ribs and down between next two, miss three ribs, keeping the long thread on the wrong side, and repeat, having every other row alternate. this may be done before the strip is joined to opposite side of square, if more convenient. sew to the sole, using strong thread and over-and-over stitches. the strip should be stretched somewhat during the sewing, in order to make the slipper cling well to the foot. for the border: cast on 10 stitches with white and knit plain, back and forth, until the strip is long enough to go around the top. darn with the black yarn, making three rows, over one rib and under three, alternating the stitches. sew to top of slipper, turn back, and put on the bows. these slippers are very easily knitted, extremely pretty and may be made to fit any size of sole. for a larger slipper cast on an additional number of stitches for the square, which will make the strip proportionally wider; knit it long enough for the larger sole, and make the border wider, if desired. a smaller slipper is begun with less stitches, following the same general directions. babies' long bootees [illustration: babies' long bootees] two colors of saxony, blue and white or pink and white, and two steel knitting-needles, no. 14, are required for these bootees. with color, cast on 57 stitches. 1. knit plain. 2. with white, knit 4, over, knit 3, * slip, narrow and bind, knit 3, over, knit 1, over, knit 3; repeat from * to end of row. 3. purl. repeat last 2 rows three times; with color knit 2 rows; with white repeat 2d and 3d rows twice, and again knit 2 rows plain with color and 2 rows plain with white. with white knit 14 rows of single rib (knit 1, purl 1). with color knit 2 rows plain; then with white knit 8 rows in single rib; repeat the last 10 rows, and again knit 2 rows plain, with color. with white knit 1 row, purl 1 row, alternately, for 4 rows; this gives the appearance of plain knitting on the right side. make a row of spaces in which to run ribbon, thus: knit 2, * over 3 times, narrow, knit 1; repeat from * to end of row. purl back, dropping 2 of the "overs." again knit forward and purl back for 5 rows; then knit 15 rows in single rib, completing the leg. for the instep: slip 1st 18 stitches on to the needle, join in the color, knit 21 stitches, turn and knit back. with white knit 1 row and purl 1 row, alternately, for 6 rows. repeat last 8 rows three times, which will give four white stripes and the same of narrow ones, in color; again knit forward and back with color. for the slipper or foot, using color, knit off 18 stitches on right-hand needle, pick up and knit 17 stitches along the side of instep, knit 21 across instep, pick up 17 on other side and knit the 18 stitches on left needle. knit back and forth plain for 20 rows and bind off. sew up the foot and back of leg, and draw ribbon through the spaces. these bootees come up well to the knee, and are warm as well as pretty. the ribbed portions cause them to fit snugly, so they are not likely to slip down and off the little feet. child's knitted mittens [illustration: child's knitted mittens] use saxony yarn with needles of suitable size, as you knit tight or loose. no. 17 is a good average size. cast 18 stitches on each of three needles. knit 2, purl 1; repeat, until the wrist is of length desired, say two inches. for the pattern, knit as follows: 1. purl. 2, 3, 4. knit 2, purl 1. these 4 rows are repeated throughout. begin to widen for the thumb in the 2d row above the wrist; to widen pick up a stitch between needles and knit it, knit 1, widen, and continue in pattern. knit 2 rows, in pattern, and again widen, knit 3, widen, across base of thumb. continue in this way, adding 2 stitches between the widenings every 3d row, and keeping as closely as possible to the pattern, until you have 21 stitches across the thumb. knit around twice in pattern and take the thumb-stitches off on a strong thread. knit around in pattern, and when you come to the thumb cast on 7 stitches, or one third the number widened for the thumb. continue knitting the hand to the tip of the little finger, then commence narrowing. the manner in which this is done depends on the shape of the hand to be fitted. for an ordinary mitten, narrow every 5th stitch, and knit 5 times around; then narrow every 4th stitch and knit 4 times around; every 3d stitch and knit 3 times around; every 2d stitch and knit twice around; then narrow, knit 1, repeat around, knit once around, narrow every stitch, draw yarn through, and darn the end neatly and securely. it is an excellent plan to "run" the tip of a mitten on the wrong side, as you do the heel of a stocking, since it makes it wear longer, especially if intended for rough usage. the narrowing of a child's mitten may begin with every 4th stitch. also, if the hand is long and slender, an additional row may be knitted between the widenings for the thumb. take the stitches off the thread on 2 needles, and with the 3d pick up and knit the stitches across the hand, which were cast on. when knitting around the first time, narrow once each end of the picked-up stitches. even the stitches on the needles, and knit around in pattern until you reach the base of the nail, then narrow off, beginning with once in 3 stitches. draw through the last stitches at tip and darn down. knee-cap [illustration: knee-cap] elderly people, or those at all inclined to rheumatic twinges, appreciate the knee-cap, and a pair of them will make a most acceptable gift to grandpa or grandma. no. 12 steel needles and germantown yarn were used for the model, which may be made more or less heavy, as desired, by choosing coarser or finer yarn. cast 35 stitches upon each of three needles and knit around 30 times in single rib--that is, knit 1, purl 1, alternately. you are now ready to begin the gore, which may be done in single rib, like the rest, or in basket-stitch (or other fancy pattern) as in the model. take 26 stitches on one needle, leaving all other stitches idle; take a stitch from each side every time across until but 42 stitches are left on both idle needles. narrow at the end of the busy needle each time until but 26 stitches are left on the busy needle. take up 23 stitches on the selvage at each side, divide the stitches evenly on the three needles, and you should have the original number of 35 stitches on each of the needles. again knit 30 rows in single rib, bind off loosely, and finish with a simple crocheted border of chain-loops or shells caught down in every other stitch. to knit the gore in basket-stitch, * purl 6, knit 2; repeat for 3 rows, then knit 1 row plain; repeat 1st 3 rows, placing the 2 plain stitches exactly in the center of the 6 purled stitches of previous rows. this change, made after each plain row, gives the wovenor basket-effect, and the pattern is a very pretty one for sweaters. wristers or pulse-warmers [illustration: wristers or pulse-warmers] wristers or pulse-warmers, are very comfortable on a cold day, and those described particularly so, as they fill the sleeve and completely exclude the wind. using knitting-worsted, or yarn of any desired size or quality with needles to correspond, such as would be employed for a man's knitted sock, cast 18 to 22 stitches on each of 3 needles, and knit 2, purl 2, alternately, for 35 rows or more, according to length required. bind off loosely. with bone crochet-hook work in straight rows from top to bottom, putting a treble in every other stitch and 2 chain-stitches between trebles; after the last treble at the edge chain 2, miss a row and return on the next. having completed the rows of spaces, make 2 trebles in 1st space, 3 in next, and repeat, working back and forth until all the spaces are filled. a very attractive finish is to work a row of doubles in color, making a double in each treble. with fine wool, crochet-silk may be prettily used for this finish. a fringed wrister may be made on the foundation described by holding a pencil on lengthwise with the left hand, and with the right sewing over and over it; make the rows quite close together, cut the wound yarn open with a pair of sharp scissors, and brush lightly across it, back and forth, until the cut ends become "mossy" or fluffed up. motor-scarf [illustration: motor-scarf] this motor-scarf may be of pink and white, or any preferred colors of shetland floss. use wooden needles and cast on 100 stitches with pink. 1, 3. purl. 2. knit plain. 4. knit 3, over twice, narrow; repeat across, ending with knit 3. 5. purl, dropping 2d of the over-twice loops. 6. knit plain. 7, 9. with white, purl. 8, 10. knit plain. repeat until the scarf is of the length required. the sides are finished with shells, in white, making 8 trebles, well drawn out, in the center of the pink stripe, and fastening in center of white stripe with 1 double. finish the ends with fringe knotted in, six inches long and composed of 10 threads each of pink and white. sport scarf [illustration: sport scarf] a very attractive scarf uses brown shetland as a body color, with deep cream-color, green and rose in combination with the brown for stripes. using no. 3½ or no. 4 bone needles, cast on 84 stitches and knit back and forth for 64 rows or 32 ribs; then join in the cream-color and knit (4 rows of cream, 2 rows of brown) 5 times, 10 rows of cream, (2 of brown, 4 of cream) 5 times; 64 rows of brown; join in green, (4 rows of green, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 rows of green; (2 of brown, 4 of green) 3 times; 64 rows of brown; (4 of rose, 2 of brown) 3 times; 10 of rose; (2 of brown, 4 of rose) 3 times; * 64 rows of brown. reverse from *, making the other end of scarf as directed for first half. for the fringe, cut strands of brown six inches long, and knot a strand in each stitch. for a lighter scarf use no. 4 bone needles and cast on 48 or 50 stitches. the larger needles with loose knitting will give work much more open. if desired one may introduce rows of fancy knitting instead of the colored stripes. in fact, having made one scarf, the worker will find it possible to vary it in many ways, and will find such variation a pleasing study. many like to use a thread of silk or mercerized crochet-cotton with the shetland floss or other wool which may be chosen. scarf in lattice-stitch [illustration: scarf in lattice-stitch] using shetland floss and no. 4 bone needles, cast on as many stitches as required for width of scarf, using a multiple of 6 with 2 over. knit back and forth 6 times. 7. knit 1, over 3 times; repeat, knitting last stitch. 8. knit 1, draw up the loop about one inch in length, (drop the "overs," and slip the knitted stitch) 6 times, slip the 6 long stitches to left-hand needle, draw the last 3 over 1st 3, knitting each, then knit the 1st 3, and repeat, knitting 1 at end of row. take care the long stitches are not twisted. 9. 10, 11. knit plain. repeat from 7th row. gather up the ends of the scarf and finish with cord and tassel, or a bow of ribbon, as preferred. knitting for the red cross (official red cross photographs) sleeveless sweater [illustration: sleeveless sweater] three hanks of gray or khaki knitting-yarn (¾ pound), fivefold, and a pair of amber needles no. 5, or no. 3 red cross needles will be needed; 11 stitches should measure two inches. cast on 80 stitches. knit 2, purl 2 stitches for 4 inches. knit plain until sweater measures 25 inches. knit 28 stitches, bind off 24 stitches for neck, loose. knit 28 stitches. knit 7 ridges on each shoulder, cast on 24 stitches. knit plain for 21 inches. purl 2, knit 2 stitches for 4 inches. sew up sides, leaving 9 inches for armholes. two rows single crochet around neck and 1 row single crochet around armholes. [illustration: sleeveless sweater before sides are sewed together] washcloth [illustration: washcloth] white knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair red cross needles no. 1. cast on 70 stitches, knit back and forth plain until cloth is about 10 inches square, and bind off. sew a loop of tape to one corner. service sock [illustration: service sock] a service-sock requires three skeins of knitting-yarn for two pairs, with no. 11 steel needles. cast on 24 stitches on each of 2 needles, and 20 on the 3d. knit 2 and purl 2 for 3½ inches. knit 10, or halfway across the 3d needle, pick up an extra stitch and purl it, keeping this always for the seam-stitch at back of leg, knit plain to end of round. continue knitting plain and purling the seam stitch for four inches. knit to within 3 stitches of the seam-stitch, narrow, knit 1, purl the seam-stitch, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped stitch over, and knit plain to end of round. repeat, narrowing as directed every 6th round, 4 times. now knit without decreasing for one inch. for the heel: place 15 stitches each side of the middle or seam-stitch, and knit back and forth, 1 row plain and 1 purl, alternately, for 25 rows, always slipping the 1st stitch. to turn the heel, slip the 1st stitch, knit 15, narrow, knit 1, turn work; slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn, slip 1, knit 3, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 4, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 5, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 7, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 8, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 9, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 10, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 11, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 12, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 13, narrow, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 14, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 14, narrow. proceed to pick up 17 stitches down side of heel next to needle just finished, knitting each as you pick it up; knit the 30 left on the needle for front of foot, and pick up 17 down other side of heel; then knit on with these half the stitches left at top of heel. knit 1 round plain; narrow the 2d round as follows: on 1st side needle knit to within 3 of end, narrow, knit 1; knit across front needle; on side needle knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, and knit to end. decrease in this manner every 2d round until there are 15 stitches on each side needle, reducing them to correspond with the front needle, and making 10 narrowings for the instep. knit five inches without narrowing, then decrease for the toe in the following manner: knit to within 3 of end of 1st side needle, narrow, knit 1; on front needle, knit 1, slip and bind as before, knit to within 3 of the end, narrow, knit 1; on other side needle, knit 1, slip and bind, knit plain to the end. knit 2 rounds plain, and repeat last 3 rounds three times more; then decrease with 1 row plain between three times, and after that decrease every row until there are but 4 stitches on the front needle. finish off neatly, drawing the toe together and darning in with a worsted-needle. one-piece helmet [illustration: one-piece helmet] one hank of yarn (¼ pound); red cross needles no. 2. cast on 56 stitches loosely. knit plain for 8 inches for front piece, and leave on extra needle. knit another piece to correspond for back. these pieces must be at least 9 inches wide. slip the stitches of both pieces on to 3 needles, arranging for last 2 stitches of back piece to be on beginning of 1st needle, with 38 stitches of front piece added (making 40 on 1st needle). divide rest of stitches on other 2 needles; 36--36. beginning with 1st needle, knit 2, purl 2 for 6 inches. then on 1st needle knit 2, purl 2 for 18 stitches. bind off 22 stitches for face opening. (try to keep same arrangement of stitches on needles for further directions.) knit 2, purl 2 forward and back on remaining 90 stitches for 1½ inches, always slipping first stitch. cast on 22 stitches loosely to complete face opening, and knit 2, purl 2 for 2½ inches (adjust stitches by slipping 2 from end of 3d needle to 1st needle, making 42 on 1st needle). knit 1 round plain. knit 2 stitches together, knit 11, knit 2 stitches together, knit 1. repeat to end of round. knit 4 rows plain. then knit 2 stitches together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1. repeat to end of round. knit 4 rows plain. continue in this way, narrowing on every fifth round and reducing number of stitches between narrowed stitches by 2 (as 7, 5, 3, etc.) until you have 28 stitches left on needles. divide on 2 needles, having 14 on 1st needle and 14 on the other. break off yarn, leaving 12-inch end. thread into worsted-needle and proceed to weave the front and back together as follows: * pass worsted-needle through 1st stitch of front knitting-needle as if knitting, and slip stitch off--pass through 2d stitch as if purling--leave stitch on, pass thread through 1st stitch of back needle as if purling, slip stitch off, pass thread through 2d stitch of back needle as if knitting, leave stitch on. repeat from * until all the stitches are off the needle. muffler [illustration: muffler] two and one-half skeins of knitting-yarn and one pair amber needles no. 5, or red cross needles no. 3 will be required. cast on 50 stitches, measuring 11 inches, and knit back and forth until the muffler is sixty-eight inches in length. hot-water-bottle cover [illustration: hot-water-bottle cover] white knitting-cotton (medium weight); 1 pair red cross needles no. 1. cast on 56 stitches, knit 2, purl 2 and repeat until the work is 4 inches deep. then knit back and forth plain for 9½ inches more, or until entire work measures 13½ inches. next decrease 2 stitches at beginning and 2 stitches at end of each needle until there are sixteen stitches left, and bind off. make another piece in same manner and sew together. attach a 20-inch piece of tape to seam at one side of ribbing to tie around neck of bottle. helmet made in two parts [illustration: helmet made in two parts] one hank of yarn (¼ pound); 1 pair red cross needles no. 2. the helmet is made in two parts, which afterward are sewed together. front of helmet.--cast on 48 stitches (11 inches), knit plain for 25 ribs (6 inches) and knit 2, purl 2 for 35 rows. on the next row the opening for the face is made as follows: knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, knit and bind off loosely the next 28 stitches and purl 1, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2. run the stitches before the opening on a spare needle and on the stitches at the other side of opening knit 2, purl 2 for 12 rows. the last row will end at the opening, and at that point cast on 28 stitches to offset those bound off. begin at the face opening of stitches on spare needle and knit 2, purl 2 for 12 rows. at the end of the 12th row continue all across to the end of other needle, when there should be 48 stitches on needle as at first. knit 2, purl 2 for 24 rows. top of helmet.--knit 2, narrow (knitting 2 stitches together), knit 14, narrow, knit 14, narrow, knit 12. purl the entire next row. on the 3d row knit 2, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 13, narrow, knit 11. purl 4th row. on the 5th row knit 2, narrow, knit 12, narrow, knit 12, narrow, knit 10. purl 6th row. continue to narrow in the 3 places every plain knitted row with 1 stitch less between narrowings until 9 stitches are left. back of helmet.--work in same manner as for front but omit the face opening. sew the stitches of upper edges together with joining-stitch. sew up the side seams, leaving the plain knitting at shoulders open. thumbless mitt or wristlet [illustration: thumbless mitt or wristlet] the thumbless mitt or wristlet requires one half hank of knitting-yarn, gray, with no. 2 red cross needles or no. 11 or no. 12 steel needles. nine stitches measure one inch. cast on 48 stitches and knit 2, purl 2, for 12 inches; bind off and sew up, leaving an opening for the thumb two inches in length, three inches from one end. the ordinary wristlets or pulse-warmers are knitted in the same way, 8½ inches long, and sewed up with no thumb-opening. wristlets made in one piece require one half hank of yarn, and 4 bone needles no. 3, or steel needles no. 12. cast on 52 stitches on 3 needles; 16-16-20. knit 2, purl 2, for 8 inches. to make opening for thumb, knit 2, purl 2 to end of "third" needle, turn; knit and purl back to end of "first" needle, always slipping first stitch, turn. continue knitting back and forth for 2 inches. from this point continue as at first for 4 inches for the hand. bind off loosely; buttonhole thumb-opening. bed-sock [illustration: bed-sock] one hank of yarn (¼ pound) is required, with red cross needles no. 2 or steel needles no. 11 or 12. cast 48 stitches on three needles, 16 on each. knit plain and loosely for 20 inches. decrease every other stitch by knitting two stitches together until you have 12 stitches on each of two needles opposite each other. break off yarn and weave stitches together as per directions for finishing one-piece helmet. child's drawers-leggings knitted [illustration: child's drawers-leggings, knitted] materials required are six hanks of germantown wool, a pair of bone needles no. 4, and a pair of steel needles, no. 15. cast on 68 stitches. 1 to 16. knit 2, purl 2; repeat. this is the double rib. 17. knit 6 plain, turn; knit back on these 6 stitches, turn. 18. knit 12, turn; knit back on these 12 stitches. continue working in this way, knitting 6 more stitches forward each row and knitting back on the same, until you have 36 stitches on the needle. knit back on these 36 stitches, turn. this brings 6 ridges at one side of the work. now knit plain across the entire 68 stitches. continue knitting back and forth until you have 34 ridges (not counting the 6 ridges at one side of work); in next row narrow once at each end of row, and continue in this way, narrowing a stitch each end, until you have 50 stitches remaining on the needle. do 12 rows of double rib (knit 2, purl 2), then begin the cable-twist of ankle, thus: 1. knit 7, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on a spare needle, knit 6, then knit the 3 stitches from the spare needle, forming the twist, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, slip 3 stitches on spare needle, knit 6, knit the 3 stitches from spare needle, purl 2, knit 7, turn. 2. knit 6, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 8, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1, knit 6, turn. 3. knit 7, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, knit 9, purl 2, knit 7. repeat last 2 rows, alternately, for 30 rows, making the twist, as directed in 1st row, every 6th row. for the instep: count off or leave 29 stitches; knit back 8 stitches on these 29, and on the 8 stitches work back and forth until you have 8 ridges. pick up the stitches around edge of instep, and work back and forth along the entire row for 4 ridges; bind off. make the other leg in the same way, sew up the seams and join the two by the middle seam. around the top work a row of spaces, in which to run the drawstrings, thus: 1. fasten in, chain 5, * miss 2, a treble in next, chain 2; repeat around, and join to 3d of 5 chain. 2. miss 1 space, 4 trebles in next, miss 1 space, fasten in next; repeat. crochet a cord of the wool and finish the ends with tassels. a knitted hood for miss dolly [illustration: a knitted hood for miss dolly] using blue saxony and medium steel needles, cast on 74 stitches; knit plain back and forth until you have 10 single ribs, then bind off 6, knit across to within 6 stitches of the end and bind off these. this is for the front or turnover of the hood. next row, knit 1, * over, narrow, knit 1; repeat, forming holes in which to run ribbon. now change to white yarn and knit across, adding 6 extra stitches distributed along the front near the top in order to make the back a trifle full, * knit 1 row, purl 1 row and knit 1 row for a triple rib; repeat from * 16 times, always slipping the 1st stitch of each row to give a good selvage. bind off 26 stitches on each end of the work; be sure that this is done on the wrong side, and just before knitting the last row of last rib, as the binding off finishes the rib and is essential in keeping all the ribs the same. knit the crown on the 16 middle stitches, in the triple ribs described. widen twice each end of crown needle during 1st 2 ribs. knit same number of ribs as the front, narrowing once or twice each end of needle near extreme end of crown. pick up the stitches for the neck around lower part of crown and fronts, about 18 stitches on each of the latter and alternate loops on the crown; knit across with blue, making a row of holes as on the front; knit 6 or 7 single ribs, and sew neatly to the stitches bound off at lower edge of front. sew the crown neatly to front, run ribbon in the spaces made for it and tighten slightly, and finish with ties and bows of ribbon. by adding extra stitches to the front, and making the crown proportionately larger, these directions will be found to serve admirably for baby's first hood, or as large a hood as wanted. a lesson in crochet the stitches and terms given herewith are such as are in general use, and were taught the writer by an english teacher of crocheting, herself a professional in the art. in some periodicals and books, the real slip-stitch is omitted, and the single is called slip-stitch; the double is called single, the treble is called double, the double treble is called treble, and so on. there are different ways of holding the crochet-needle and carrying the thread, and many consider one way as good as another unless, as is usually the case, one's own method is thought a little the best. the following instructions were given by the english teacher in question, and are those commonly accepted: hold the needle in the right hand very much as you hold a pen when writing, letting the handle extend between the forefinger and thumb, which rest on and hold the needle. hold nothing but the latter in the right hand, not allowing the fingers of that hand to so much as rest on the work. hold work with thumb and second finger of left hand, letting the thread pass over the forefinger, slightly raised, or held up from the work, under the second, over the third and under the little finger. these instructions are especially good for using yarns, when it is desirable to keep the work as soft and fluffy as possible. [illustration: figure 1. the chain-stitch] the chain. (figure 1.) make a loop of thread around the needle, take up the thread and draw through this loop (that is, push the hook under the thread that passes over the forefinger, draw it back, catching the thread, and pull this through the loop on the needle), forming a new stitch or loop, take up the thread and draw through this, and so continue until the chain is of the length required, tightening each loop as drawn through, so that all will be of uniform size and smoothness. after a little practise one does this without thought. when abbreviations are used, that for chain is ch. the slip-stitch is properly a close joining stitch: drop the stitch on the needle, insert hook through the stitch of work to which you wish to join, take up the dropped stitch and pull through, thus making a close fastening. this stitch is sometimes used to "slip" along certain portions of the work, from one to another point, but single crochet is more often employed for this. the abbreviation is sl-st. [illustration: figure 2. single crochet] single crochet (figure 2, frequently called slip-stitch, and sometimes mitten-stitch) is made thus: having a stitch on needle, insert hook in work, take up the thread and draw it through the work and the stitch on the needle at the same time. the abbreviation is s c. [illustration: figure 3. double crochet] double crochet. (figure 3). having a stitch on needle, insert hook in work, take up thread and draw through, giving you two stitches on the needle; take up thread and draw through the two stitches. the abbreviation is d c. there are many variations of the double-crochet stitch; the slipper-stitch, or ribbed stitch, is formed by taking up the back horizontal loop or vein of each stitch in preceding row. a quite different effect is given when the hook is inserted under both loops. [illustration: figure 4. treble crochet] treble crochet. (figure 4.) having a stitch on the needle, take up the thread as if to make a stitch, insert hook in work, take up thread and draw through, making three stitches or loops on the needle; * take up thread and draw through two, again and draw through two. the abbreviation of treble crochet, is t c. it will be noted that the single crochet has one "draw," the double two, and the treble three, from which these stitches take their names. [illustration: figure 5. half-treble crochet] half-treble or short-treble crochet. like treble to *; then take up thread and draw through all three stitches at once. [illustration: figure 6. double-treble crochet] double-treble crochet. (figure 6.) having a stitch on the needle, take up the thread twice, or put it twice over the needle, insert hook in work, take up thread and draw through, making four stitches to be worked off; (take up thread and draw through two) three times. the abbreviation of double-treble crochet is d t c. [illustration: figure 7. triple-treble crochet] triple-treble crochet. (figure 7.) take up thread three times, insert hook in work, take up thread and draw through, making five stitches on needle; work these off two at a time, as in double treble. the abbreviation is t t c. one sometimes has occasion to use other extra-long stitches, such as quadruple crochet (over four times before insertion of hook in work), quintuple crochet (over five times), and so on, which are worked off two at a time, exactly as in treble or double treble. in turning, one chain-stitch corresponds to a double, two chain-stitches to a half or short treble, three chain to a treble, four to a double treble, five to a triple treble, and so on, adding one chain for each extra "draw." parentheses () and asterisks or stars * * are used to prevent the necessity of repetition and save space. they indicate repeats of like directions. thus: (chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next) three times is equivalent to chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next; or to * chain 3, miss 3, 1 treble in next, repeat from * twice. the worker should be careful in the selection of a hook. it should be well made and smooth, and of a size to carry the wool smoothly, without catching in and roughening it. if too large, on the other hand, the work is apt to be sleazy. needles that have been used for some time work more easily than new ones. if all makes of crochet-needles were numbered in the same way the size might be easily designated; but it happens that no two manufacturers use like numbers for the same sizes, hence the rule given is the best that can be. crocheted jacket [illustration: crochet jacket] one color or two may be used for making this pretty jacket, which is extremely modish, and very comfortable for the cool days and evenings sure to be experienced during summer outings. six skeins of fourfold germantown will be sufficient; or four skeins of one color for the body and two of white for the border, if made in two colors. make a chain of 54 stitches, turn. 1. miss 3, a double in next, * chain 1, miss 1, 1 double in next; repeat from * across, making 26 doubles; turn. 2. chain 2, a double under 1 chain, * chain 1, a double under next 1 chain; repeat across, turn. repeat 2d row until you have completed a strip 22 inches long, for the back, bringing the work to the shoulder. now work back and forth for one shoulder and front, repeating 2d row until you have made 9 doubles; turn, chain 2, and repeat until you have made 4 rows. in the next row widen by making 2 doubles, 1 chain between, in center of row, finishing row as usual; widen in the center of every 8th row until you have 15 doubles in the row, then continue without widening until the front is of the same length as the back. leave 8 doubles for back of neck and on the remaining 9 doubles work the other front to correspond. for the border: commence (with the border-color, if two colors are used) at corner of left front, make a treble under 1 chain (chain 3 for 1st treble), * chain 1, a treble under next 1 chain; repeat from * all around, putting 2 trebles with 1 chain between in same stitch at corners, and on the shoulders at the neck to shape the collar. make another row in the same way, then work in seed-stitch as you did the body of the jacket (a double under 1 chain, chain 1) for 8 rows, widening the same stitches at corners each time. fold the garment at the shoulders, bringing fronts and back together. commencing in 10th chain from bottom of front and back, work in the usual way for 25 stitches, a double under each chain. work from underarm around the armscye until the sleeve is 12 inches in length, or as long as desired, then make the 2 rows of spaces, in treble crochet, as before and finish with 7 rows of seed-stitch, same as body of jacket. for the picot edge: two doubles in 2 stitches, chain 3 for a picot; repeat. the stitch given is very simple and pretty, but any other fancy stitch may be used that is liked. among others may be named lancaster-stitch, made as follows: having a chain of an even number of stitches, turn. 1. miss 1st stitch, a double in each remaining stitch, turn. 2. chain 3, wool over, draw a loop through 1st stitch, over, draw a loop through next stitch, over, draw a loop through same stitch, over, draw a loop through next stitch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, * chain 4, a double in 1st stitch of the chain just made, which closes or joins the cluster of loops, over, draw a loop through same stitch with last loop of preceding cluster, over, draw a loop through next stitch, over, draw a loop through same stitch, over, draw a loop through next stitch, over, draw through all the loops on needle, and repeat from *; turn. 3. a double in 1st space, double around the thread between 4 chain and cluster; repeat, ending with a double in top of 3 chain with which last row started. repeat 2d and 3d rows for the pattern. the bird's-eye-stitch is simple and pleasing: having a chain of desired length, turn. 1. miss 1, a double in each stitch of chain, turn. 2. a double in double, taking front loop of stitch in last row, a double in next double, taking back loop; repeat to end, and repeat 2d row. still another pretty stitch, easily adjusted to any garment, is as follows: chain a number of stitches divisible by 3, turn. 1. miss 1, a double in each remaining stitch of chain, turn. 2. chain 1, a double in each double of last row, turn. 3. chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, * wool over, insert hook in 3d stitch of 1st row, take up wool and draw through, (over, draw through 2 stitches) twice, miss 1, a double in each of next 2 doubles; repeat from * to end of row, turn. 4. same as 2d row. 5. chain 1, a double in each of 1st 2 doubles, * wool over and make a treble as before, inserting the hook under the treble of 3d row, miss 1, a double in each of 2 stitches; repeat from * to end, turn. repeat 4th and 5th rows. and another still: make a chain of length required, turn. 1. miss 3, a treble in next stitch, * miss 1, 2 trebles in next stitch, repeat to end of row, turn. 2. chain 3, 2 trebles between each group of 2 trebles in last row; repeat. repeat 2d row. tam-o'-shanter in double crochet [illustration: tam-o'-shanter in double crochet] for the model were used one skein of electric-blue knitting-worsted and a ball of gray angora wool, with a hook large enough to carry the yarn easily. make a chain of 3 stitches, join. 1. seven doubles in ring. 2. two doubles in each double, taking both veins of stitch. 3. a double in double, 2 in next; repeat. 4. a double in each of 2 doubles, 2 in next; repeat. 5. a double in each of 3 doubles, 2 in next; repeat. continue in this way, adding 1 double between widenings each row, until you have 30 doubles in each section--between widenings--or more, if a larger crown is desired. 33. a double in each of 7 doubles, miss 1; repeat. 34. a double in each of 6 doubles, miss 1; repeat. 35. a double in each of 2 doubles, miss 1; repeat. 36 to 45. a double in each stitch. 46, 47. with gray angora wool, make a double in each stitch and fasten off the last row neatly. cover a large, flat button-mold with the blue wool: make a chain of 3 stitches, turn, and in 2d stitch of chain make 8 doubles; make 2 doubles in each of 8 doubles, working in both veins of stitch; then make 1 double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, and repeat. continue to work around and around, widening to keep the work flat, until you have a circle which will cover the button-mold, say 6 rounds; then work once around without widening, slip in the mold, * miss 1, a double in next, and repeat until the cover is closed. for the edge of the button and the cord around top of band either the double chain may be made, an ordinary chain filled with double crochet, or--better still--the cord may be knotted by what is called the "fool's delight" method--which seems a very sensible method, indeed: take a length of the angora wool six times as long as the cord is wanted to be; indeed, it will be better to start with a longer piece, for fear it may "take up" more rapidly than anticipated. make a slip or half knot at one end of the yarn, pass the other end down through this to form a loop, then tie the ends of the yarn together. hold this knot between thumb and forefinger of one hand (say the right), with the yarn which pulls through the half knot under the same hand, and the loop which was formed held on the forefinger, holding the yarn which does not pull in the left hand; pass the forefinger of left hand through the loop on right forefinger from front to back, catch up and draw through the non-pulling or left-hand thread--exactly as you would make a chain-stitch in crochet--transfer the knot which ties the two ends together to thumb and forefinger of left hand, keeping the loop over forefinger, and draw up the pulling yarn, or that passed originally through the half knot. now the position of the loop, pulling yarn and knot is exactly the same in the left hand as formerly in the right. continue by passing forefinger of right hand through the loop on left forefinger, catching up the non-pulling thread and drawing it through to form the new loop (on right forefinger again), transfer the knot from left hand to right, and pull up, repeating the process from beginning. this is really a sort of double chain, and when one has learned to make it evenly and well--as may be done with a little practise--it will be found superior for bags, lingerie, and many other articles requiring a drawstring or a cord. sew this cord evenly around button and top of band, and the cap is completed. ladies' sleeveless jacket or hug-me-tight [illustration: ladies' sleeveless jacket or hug-me-tight] use germantown worsted, white or any desired color, with a hook large enough to carry the yarn smoothly. commence with a chain of 140 stitches, turn. 1. miss 3, 1 treble in each of 68 stitches following, shell of 3 trebles, 2 chain and 3 trebles in next stitch, to widen for center of back, a treble in each remaining stitch, turn. 2. chain 3 for 1st treble, a treble in each treble, including the 3 trebles of shell, up to the 2 chain, make a shell as before under 2 chain, then a treble in each following to the end, turn. work always in back vein of stitch to produce the ribbed or striped effect. 3 to 23. same as 2d row. the jacket is now ready for joining. commencing at the point in center of back, count 26 stitches, then fold over and, starting from the other end of the same row, crochet the two sides together for 25 stitches, taking a stitch from each side. this will leave about 65 stitches for armscye. for the border: 1. shell of 6 trebles in a stitch, miss 2, a treble in next, miss 2; repeat. commence with 3 chain for 1st treble of 1st shell, and join to that. 2. shell of 6 trebles between 3d and 4th trebles of shell in previous row, and treble in treble; repeat. 3. chain 4, fasten back in 1st stitch for a picot, a double between 2 trebles, repeat, making 5 picots around the shell, a double in single treble; repeat. work around the armscye in same way. child's coat sweater [illustration: child's coat sweater] use germantown wool, cream-white or any color desired, and bone hook size 4, or a hook large enough to carry the wool easily. the sweater is crocheted in the length in two parts, and is joined in center of back. make a chain of 160 stitches, turn. 1. a double in each stitch of chain, chain 1, turn. 2. a double in each double, working in back vein of stitch to form a rib. 3. make star-stitches along the rib, thus: chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of chain, counting from hook, and a loop through each of 2 doubles; take up wool and draw through the 5 stitches on needle, chain 1 to close the star, draw a loop through eye of star just made (under the 1 chain), another through the back part of last perpendicular loop of the same star, and a loop through each of 2 doubles, close the star by working off all the loops, chain 1, and repeat to end of row, turn. make another rib of doubles by working across twice, then a row of star-stitches, and continue until you have 4 rows of stars and 5 ribs; on next row work 39 stars, then a rib, and continue until you have 3 rows of 39 star-stitches each. work a row of doubles, break and fasten the wool securely. bear in mind that the star-stitches must be all worked on the right side; the 1st row will come so, but the 2d will not unless the wool is broken off at the end of 2d rib and fastened in at other end again; then chain 3, and proceed with the row. beginning at the neck-end of the front strip, leave the 1st 6 stitches (equal to 3 stars) and work to end of row in star-stitch; make a rib as directed. work 2 more rows of stars, with the ribs alternating, leaving 1 star less at the top or neck-end each time. work the other half to correspond, then join in center of the back with single crochet, putting hook through a loop of each part. if carefully done the joining will not be discernible. join under arms, also, leaving the opening for armholes. for the border: work 10 rows of double crochet, a double in each stitch, around the entire garment, fronts, bottom and neck, widening at each of the lower corners in each row to form the miter. or, if preferred, work around neck and down fronts first, completing the border; then work around the bottom and across the front border. the widening for miter is neater. the buttonholes are made in the 5th row of front; chain 5, miss 5, and repeat, making as many openings as desired, at equal distances. in working back, next row, make also a double in each stitch of 5 chain. for the sleeve: chain 80 stitches, with 1 to turn, work a rib of doubles on the chain, then 40 star-stitches. repeat until there are 10 rows of star-stitch and 11 ribs, taking care, as before, that the stars are worked on the right side always. join the sleeve-seam on the wrong side with single crochet, as you did the back. for the cuff: work 12 rounds of double crochet, 1 double in each stitch and turn back. sew the sleeves into the armholes, and sew on buttons of a size appropriate to the garment and corresponding with the buttonholes. this sweater may be very easily enlarged to any desired size by starting with a longer chain and making more rows of star-stitch and ribs to keep the proportion. the combination of stitches is a most attractive one. child's jacket [illustration: child's jacket] materials required are three skeins of cream-white saxony and one skein of blue or pink, with a bone hook of suitable size to carry the yarn smoothly. make a chain of 78 stitches. 1. on the chain make 8 stars, widen, (1 star, widen, 9 stars, widen) twice, 1 star, widen, 8 stars. break and fasten wool, and fasten in again at beginning of row so as to have all stars made on the right side. or, one can work back with a row of doubles to beginning of 1st row. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. same as 1st row, except that you widen only every other row, and always exactly in the center. keep 8 stars on each front, thus constantly increasing the upper portion of the sleeve, or gore between 1st and 2d and 4th and 5th widenings. 9. make 8 stars, chain 22 for armhole, fasten in 1st star on the back, continue the stars across the back, chain 22, and make 8 stars across front again. 10. same as preceding row, making 11 stars on chain under each arm. 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. same as 10th row, widening only in center of back every other row, as at first. this completes the body of the jacket. 21. commencing the border, fasten in the colored wool at left front corner of neck, and make 21 stars down the front. at the corner make 2 stars as if to widen, in order to turn the corner neatly, and continue all the way around to top of right front, not widening at all in the back of border, but making 2 stars to turn the corner as at first. 22. stars all around, of color. 23. fasten in the white wool at top of left front, chain 3, then make 2 trebles in the eye of each star all around, with 4 trebles in eye of star at corners, so as to make the work lie smoothly. 24. with color, fasten in at top of left front, chain 3, and make 2 trebles between each 2 trebles of last row, with 4 at corners. 25. same as 24th row, with white wool. 26. across top of neck make spaces of trebles, separated by 2 chain, in which to run cord or ribbon. 27. also with white, make 2 trebles in every space. 28. with color, make 2 trebles between each group of last row. 29. like 28th row, with white. this completes the collar. 30. fasten color at top of left front, * chain 4, fasten in space between trebles, repeat from * around the jacket, collar and all; fasten off neatly. for the sleeve: 1. fasten wool where you started the underarm chain, make the required number of stars (not widening) across shoulder, and 9 stars on the chain under the arm. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11. same as 1st row, making star over star of previous row, and joining underneath the arm. 12. with color, work the cuff in star-stitch, only omit taking the stitch under the back loop of star in last row, and take a loop through each of 2 eyes of stars instead, thus drawing in the sleeve, and making only 12 stars in the round. 13. with the color, make star in star. 14. using white wool, make 2 trebles in eye of each star. 15, 16, 17. same as 28th, 29th and 30th rows of border. this makes a dainty, soft little garment. if one likes, treble stitch may be alternated with star-stitch, on the return rows; that is, after making a row of stars, instead of breaking the wool, turn, chain 3, and make trebles across, or the trebles may be crossed to give a more fancy effect, making a treble in 2d stitch, then a treble back in preceding stitch. run ribbon matching the colored wool, or cord and tassels made of both white and color, in the spaces around the neck. girl's jacket [illustration: girl's jacket] materials required are 12 skeins of gray germantown yarn and 1 skein of blue. make a chain of 52 stitches. 1. a double in 8th stitch of chain, * chain 3, miss 3, 1 double in next; repeat from * 10 times, making 12 loops in all, turn. 2. chain 4, 3 trebles in 1st loop, * chain 1, 3 trebles in next loop; repeat from * across the row, ending with 4 trebles, turn. 3. chain 4, a double under 1 chain, * chain 3, a double under next; repeat to end of row. repeat 2d and 3d rows 23 times, making 24 rows of blocks in all, alternating with rows of loops. divide the width into three parts, 4 blocks for back of neck and 4 for each front. work same as 3d row until you have made 4 blocks, the last block of 4 trebles, turn and work back same as 3d row. repeat these 2 rows twice more; in next row, to widen, make 6 trebles under 4th loop, chain 4, turn, miss 3 of 6 trebles, a double between next 2, chain 3, fasten under 1 chain, and continue across. the next row will consist of 5 blocks, and there are 20 rows of 5 blocks each, in all, making the same length of back. make the other front in exactly the same way. for the border: 1. fasten in at corner of neck (at end of 1st row of 5 blocks), work in blocks down the front, across the bottom, putting 3 extra trebles at each corner to turn smoothly, up over shoulder and down back, and so on around to opposite corner, omitting the stitch between blocks. 2. fasten blue yarn at right front and work a row of loops as described, fastening the chains between groups of 3 trebles. make 3 more rows of blocks, same color as body of jacket, with always the 3 extra trebles (6 in all) at corners to turn, and following the 2d and 3d rows with the row of loops in blue. for the sleeve: fold the jacket evenly and fasten yarn at the back of jacket, at the desired width for sleeve--9 blocks from top of shoulder, in the model; chain 9, fasten to front, work around armhole with a row of loops (gray), making 21 loops in all, 3 under arm, chain 3, 2 trebles under 1st loop, chain 1, 3 trebles under next loop; repeat around, join, and repeat the rows of loops and blocks to required length; the model has 25 rows of blocks, ending with the row of loops. for the cuff: leave 7 blocks on top of sleeve, fasten in 8th loop (the 3d from center loop at top of sleeve), work around as usual to 3d loop from center on other side, turn, make a row of loops, then a row of blocks. fasten the blue yarn to sleeve, and work around cuff with loops; make a row of blocks with 6 trebles at corners to turn, and continue to match border of jacket, making 4 rows of blocks and 3 of blue chain-loops. for the collar: fasten yarn at corner of neck, in 1st block made in border, and make 3 trebles in the same place, make a block in the side of each 3 following blocks, along the neck toward the back, putting chain 1 between, 2 blocks in side of next, to widen, 6 blocks, widen, 3 blocks. follow with a row of loops, and continue same as for cuffs, widening as directed and twice putting 6 trebles under each of 2 consecutive loops in outer row. join at beginning and end of each row to upper edge of jacket-border. finish with a border of loops, as follows: a double between blocks, (chain 3, a double in same place) twice. crochet a chain of the blue yarn and use this to lace under the arms, finishing the ends with loops as for the edge, and tying in a bow. make a shorter chain for each cuff, lace together and tie in a little bow to the sleeve. a similar chain is used to draw in the neck. any preferred colors may, of course, be used. the jacket can be easily made large enough for an adult, and is beautiful in blue-and-white saxony for a baby. babies' jacket [illustration: babies' jacket] materials required are three skeins of saxony yarn, one spool silk-finished crochet-cotton or crochet-silk, and two and one-half yards of no. 1 ribbon. use a hook which will carry the yarn easily. make a chain of 100 stitches, turn. 1. miss 1st 4 stitches, make a treble in each of 96 stitches, drawing up to about five-eighths of an inch. break and fasten wool (this so the work will be done on the right side; one may turn, if preferred, but the effect is not so good). 2. fasten in where you began, pull up, make 2 trebles in top of 3d treble and 1 treble back to where you fastened in, which makes a cross; repeat, making 32 crosses in all; break thread and again join in at the end where you began. 3. make 21 trebles over 7 crosses, (12 trebles over next 2, 18 trebles over 6 crosses) twice, 12 over 2, and again 21 over 7, which brings you to end of row. the 12 trebles over 2 are to widen; the others are made 2 on each cross and 1 between. 4. same as 2d row, 38 crosses. 5. make 21 trebles plain (that is, 3 over each cross). 24 over 4 crosses, 21 plain, 12 over 2 crosses, 21 plain, 24 over next 4, 21 plain. 6. forty-eight crosses. 7. make 21 plain, 12 over next 2 crosses, 12 plain, (12 over next 2, 24 plain) twice, 12 over next 2, 12 plain, 12 over next 2, 21 plain. 8. fifty-eight crosses. 9. make 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain, 12 over next 2, 24 plain, miss 12 crosses, 24 plain. 10. thirty-six crosses. 11. plain, with 3 extra trebles under each arm, and 6 extra over the 6 crosses at center of back. 12. forty crosses. 13. plain, with 6 extra in back. 14. forty-two crosses. 15. like 13th row. 16. forty-four crosses. 17. like 13th row. 18. forty-six crosses. 19. plain, without widening in the back. around the neck make spaces for the ribbon by fastening in at end of foundation-chain, chain 5, miss 2, a treble in next, * chain 2, miss 2, 1 treble, and repeat. now make a row of crosses entirely around the jacket, putting extra crosses at corners to keep the work flat, follow this with a row of trebles, widening by making extra trebles at corners to turn them nicely, finish with a row of shells of 8 trebles in a stitch, miss 3, fasten, miss 3; repeat, and edge with the crochet-silk, making a double between 1st 2 trebles of shell, (chain 2, a double between next 2) 6 times, chain 2, double in double between shells, chain 2, and repeat. for the sleeves: 1. make 6 trebles on trebles under the arm, and 36 over the 12 crosses. 2. fourteen crosses. 3. plain, with 3 extra trebles under arm, 45 in all. 4. fifteen crosses. 5. same as 3d row, making 48 trebles. 6. sixteen crosses. 7. same as 3d row, making 51 trebles. 8. seventeen crosses. 9. same as 3d row, making 54 trebles. finish with shells and chain-loops, as described for the body of jacket. run one and one-fourth yards of ribbon in the neck, and divide the remainder, running it in the 7th row of sleeve and making a pretty bow on top. baby's shoes in crochet [illustration: baby's shoes in crochet] these little shoes may be made of crochet-cotton, or silk, white or delicate color, or of wool. they are very firm and neat, and shaped to the foot. the sample pair was made of no. 15 crochet-cotton; finer or coarser material will result in a smaller or larger shoe, by the same directions. commence at bottom of the sole with a chain of 33 stitches. 1. miss 1st stitch, a double in each of 31 stitches, 3 in end stitch, 1 in each of 31 stitches down other side and 3 in last, join. 2. a double in 1st stitch, 2 in next, 1 in each double down the side to within 2 stitches of middle of toe, 2 in next, 1 in next, 3 in middle stitch, 1 in next, 2 in next, 1 in each down side, ending with 2 in 3d stitch from middle of heel, 1 in next, and 3 in next, join. 3. chain 1, a double in each of 2 stitches, 2 in next, 1 in each down the side to within 4 of the end, 2 in next, 1 in each of 3, 3 in middle stitch, 1 in each of 3, 2 in next, 1 in each down side, 2 in 4th stitch from the end, 1 in each of 3, 2 in middle stitch of heel, join. 4. same as 3d row, making an extra stitch between widenings. 5. chain 4, miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat, making 2 trebles with 1 chain between in each of the widenings of the toe, and 3 trebles, with 1 chain between, at back of heel. 6. chain 1, a double in each stitch all around, making 2 doubles in the widening spaces at side of toe and in the middle of heel. 7. chain 1, a double in each stitch around, widening as usual on each side of toe and in the middle, also in middle of heel; join. 8. same as 7th row. 9. chain 4, * miss 1, a treble in next, chain 1; repeat around, join to 3d of 4 chain. 10. chain 1, a double in each treble and in space; narrow 11 stitches from middle of toe by putting hook through 2 stitches at once, or by missing a stitch, also at middle of toe, join. 11, 12. same as 10th row, making double in double, and narrowing as directed. 13. like 11th row until you have reached the 3d narrowing on the vamp, then turn and work back across vamp, narrowing at the end, turn. 14. chain 1, a double in each double across vamp, narrowing in the middle and at end. 15, 17. like 13th row. 16, 18. like 14th row. 19. chain 1, a double in each double, narrowing at middle of vamp and on the sides. 20. turn and work across top of vamp with a double in each stitch. 21. for the upper part of shoe, slip to 1st double at side of vamp, 2d row back, chain 11, turn, miss 1, 10 doubles in 10 stitches, catch in 1st double of side of shoe, a single in next double on side of shoe, turn; a double in each of 9 doubles, 2 in last, turn; chain 1, 2 doubles in 1st double, 1 in each following double, join to next double of side, a single in next, turn; a double in each double of last row, with 2 at end, turn; chain 1, a double in each of 2 doubles, chain 5, miss 5, a double in each following double, join to next double of side, a single in next, turn; double in each double, with 5 in 5 stitches of chain, turn; chain 1, a double in each double; join, slip in next double of side, turn; work 5 more rows, widening 1 stitch at end of every other row; then chain 4, turn; miss 1, a double in each of 3 stitches and double in each double, join, slip in next double, turn; work back with double in each double, chain 1, turn, 2 doubles in 2 doubles, chain 5, miss 5, double in double, join, slip in next double, turn, work back with double in double, chain 1, turn, and work double in double around to within 14 stitches of top of vamp on other side, turn; chain 1, double in double to edge of flap, turn; chain 1 and make a double in double around to the other side. continue thus until you have worked 6 rows around top of shoe, then make a buttonhole as before, and finish with 4 rows. the shoe may be made higher, if desired, and more buttonholes added. for the buttons. chain 3, join; 8 doubles in ring; 2 doubles in each double; a double in each double; a double in every other double; slip in a pearl or porcelain button of requisite size, draw together, and sew to the shoe, matching the position of the buttonholes. ribbed house-slippers [illustration: ribbed house-slipper] use 2-fold shetland zephyr, or any similar yarn of moderate twist. commencing at the toe, make a chain of 11 stitches, turn. 1. a double in 2d stitch of chain and 1 in each of 8 stitches, 3 doubles in end chain, 1 double in each of 9 stitches down other side of chain, in same stitches where the 1st 9 doubles were worked, chain 1, turn. 2. ten doubles in 10 doubles, taking up back vein of stitch to form the rib, 3 doubles in next, or center stitch, 10 doubles in 10 doubles, chain 1, turn. 3, 4, 5. same as 2d row, making 1 extra double each side of center, each row. 6. a double in each double, without widening, chain 1, turn. 7. a double in each double, with 3 in center stitch. repeat 6th and 7th rows until you have 25 ribs, or the vamp is as deep as desired. if preferred, the widening may be made every row, putting 2 doubles in one and then the other, alternately, of the widening doubles. for the side of foot make 24 doubles in 24 doubles, chain 1, turn, a double in double, chain 1, turn, and continue until you have 44 ribs, or the strip is of sufficient length to extend easily around the sole; join neatly to 24 doubles on opposite side of vamp. around top of slipper work a beading in which to run the elastic, thus: fasten in, between 2 ribs, chain 10, * miss 5 ribs, a triple treble (over 3 times) between next 2, chain 1, a triple treble between next 2, chain 5, repeat from * around, ending with 1 triple treble, chain 1, join to 5th of 10 chain. for ruching: have 3 strands of yarn, insert hook in work, over 4 times, pull through, and repeat in each stitch, pulling the loops out about three-fourths inch, and always taking yarn next to you to next stitch; make this for bottom of beading, as well, and the latter will be entirely covered. run an elastic band or tape in the beading, between the 2 triple trebles, and make a bow of ribbon for instep of the same shade as the yarn. baby's bootees [illustration: no. 1. baby's bootees] a pair of dainty bootees makes a nice gift for baby, and is appreciated scarcely less by baby's mamma. two very pretty styles are given, one in pink and white, the accepted colors for a girlie, the other in blue and white--blue being the color usually chosen for a little son's belongings.[transcriber's note: the original had blue and pink reversed in the above paragraph.] commencing with white saxony, make a chain of 11 stitches, turn. no. 1. 1.--miss 1 stitch, a double in each of 10 stitches, turn. 2. chain 1, a double in each of 10 doubles, taking up the back loop of stitch to form a rib, turn. repeat 2d row until you have 8 ribs; at the end of the last row chain 11, turn, miss 1, a double in each of 10 stitches of chain and in 10 doubles, chain 1, turn, and continue, making 4 of the long ribs, then, working only on the 10 doubles, make 8 more short ribs, and join at the back of the leg to the foundation chain, taking into each stitch. for the upper part of leg: 1. chain 3, and make trebles all around, 38 in all, joining to top of 3 chain. 2. draw out the stitch on needle, pull up a loop through 1st and 3d stitches of preceding row, take up the yarn, and draw through the 3 loops on the needle at once, chain 1 to close the cluster, * draw up a loop in same place with last and another in 3d stitch, work off as before and repeat around. 3. draw out the stitch on needle, take a loop in the space before pineapple-stitch of last row and another in the space after, work off as before, take a loop in same space as before, another in next space, work off, and repeat. 4. like 3d row, with blue. 5, 6. like 3d row, with white. 7. with blue, a double in each stitch. 8. with white, chain 3, a treble in each double, join. 9. with blue, make 1 double in 1st stitch, chain 3, 1 double in same stitch, miss 1; repeat. fasten off neatly. for the foot: 1. with blue make a double in each stitch all around bottom of leg and instep. 2. a double in each double, taking up both veins of stitch to avoid a rib. 3, 4. same as 2d row, with white. 5, 6. same as 2d row, with blue. 7, 8, 9, 10. same as 2d row, with white, joining the last row with single crochet on the wrong side. finish with cord and tassels or with ribbon, run in and out the 1st row of trebles on upper part of leg. * * * * * [illustration: no. 2. baby's bootees] no. 2. using the white yarn make a chain of 37 stitches, join. 1. chain 3, a treble in each stitch, join. 2, 3. with pink, make a double in each stitch, join. repeat 1st, 2d and 3d rows 3 times, which will give you 4 ribs each of pink and white. 13. chain 3, with white, miss 1st stitch of last row, make a treble in next, then a treble back in 1st stitch, forming a crossed treble; repeat around, join. 14. with pink, a double in a stitch, chain 3; repeat. fasten off securely. for the foot: 1. with white, fasten in the 17th treble from back of leg, draw up a loop through each of 6 stitches, keeping all on needle; take up yarn and draw through 1st stitch, * again draw through 2, and repeat until all are worked off; now insert hook under the little upright bar formed by working off the last row, draw up a loop and repeat until you have again the number of loops on needle; continue until you have 9 rows of afghan-stitch. again using white, fasten at back of leg and make a double in each stitch of leg and around the instep; make 4 more rows of doubles, 1 in each stitch of preceding row, taking up both loops to avoid a rib, then 5 rows of pink in the same way, joining the last row as before directed. finish with cord and tassels or ribbon, run in the 4th row of trebles around top of bootee. a sweater and cap for dolly [illustration: sweater and cap for dolly] one skein of white and blue saxony will be sufficient for two sets; use a crochet-hook that will carry the wool easily. commence the sweater with a chain of 60 stitches. 1. a double in each stitch of chain, turn. 2. a treble and a double in back of double of last row (chain 3 for 1st treble of the row), miss 1 double; repeat to end of row, turn. 3. a treble and a double taken between treble and double of last row; repeat. 4. a double in back of each stitch of last row (chain 1 for 1st double). 5. same as 4th row. this completes the portion over the shoulder. on one half the length repeat the 2d, 3d, 4th, 5th and again the 2d row which completes one front. work in the same way on the other half of length, which brings you to the center of the back and makes half of the sweater. make the other half to correspond, and join neatly down center of back. fold and join under the arms, making the armscye of desired size. for the sleeve: make a chain of 15 stitches, and repeat from 1st to 5th row; then repeat from 2d to 5th row twice, and join last row to 1st; also crochet sleeve in the armscye. entirely around the sweater make 4 rows of double crochet with blue yarn, working in both veins of stitch to avoid a rib, and putting 3 stitches in 1 at corners to turn smoothly. after working 2 rows of left front make the buttonholes, separated by 8 doubles, by chain 3, miss 3; then in next row make a double also in each stitch of chain. finish bottom of sleeves in same way, missing every 2d stitch in 1st row to draw in the cuff a little. sew on pearl buttons to match the buttonholes. cap: chain 5, join to form a ring. 1. chain 3, (yarn over hook, insert hook in ring, take up yarn and draw through) twice, yarn over and draw through all the loops on needle, chain 1 to close the "bean," make 6 more bean-stitches in ring, and join to top of 1st. 2. chain 3, and make a bean in top of each of last row, and between each 2; join. 3. chain 3, a bean-stitch between each 2 of last row, widening every 3d or 4th by making a bean in top of bean. 4, 5. same as 3d row, widening every 5th bean, or as necessary in order to keep the shape. make 5 more rows without widening, which completes the body of cap. for the border, turn cap wrong side out and tie in the blue yarn, working on the wrong side to form the band so that it will turn up on the right side. 1. chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches from hook, also through next 2 stitches of last row of cap, * take up wool and draw through all the stitches on needle, chain 1 to close the star, draw up a loop through eye of star last made, under the 1 chain, another through back part of last loop of preceding star, and 2 loops in next 2 stitches; repeat from *, and continue until you have made 4 rows of star-stitch. fasten off neatly. make a tassel of the colored (blue) yarn, and attach to top of cap by a crocheted cord. this set will make a charming gift for a little girl. by using fourfold germantown the sweater will be large enough for the small mother herself to wear, or it may be easily enlarged by using the heavier wool and working in the same pattern on a longer foundation-chain. the cap may also be made large enough for a child by adding to the number of bean-stitches in each row. child's cap in bean-stitch [illustration: child's cap in bean-stitch] materials required are one skein of cream-white shetland floss and a little light-blue saxony yarn, with medium-sized bone hook. chain 5, join. 1. draw up loop one-fourth inch long, yarn over, hook in ring, draw loop through, over and draw through 3 loops now on needle, * chain 1, draw up a loop in ring, over, draw up another loop in ring, over, draw through all 4 loops; repeat to make 4 more bean-stitches, 6 in all, with 1 chain between, and join last 1 chain to top of 1st stitch. 2. draw loop up long over 1st bean-stitch, over, hook through same stitch, draw through, over and draw through all the loops; this is 1st stitch of each row. chain 1, a bean-stitch in following space, chain 1, bean-stitch in bean-stitch; repeat around, join. 3. bean-stitch in 1st stitch, in each space and every 3d bean-stitch, with 1 chain between, join. 4. same as 3d row, with bean-stitch over every 4th bean-stitch. 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. same as 4th row, with an additional space between widenings; in 5th row make a bean-stitch in every 5th, and so on, with bean-stitch in every 10th, in 10th row. 11, 12, 13. bean-stitch in each space. 14. change to double crochet for head-band, making a double in each stitch. 15, 16, 17, 18, 19. a double in each double, working in both veins of stitch; narrow twice in each row. 20, 21. double in each double. 22. a bean-stitch in each 2d double, 1 chain between. 23, 24, 25, 26, 27. bean-stitch in each space; fasten off white yarn. 28. fasten blue yarn in space, chain 4, draw up a loop in 2d chain from hook, 1 in 3d and 1 in 4th, all rather long loops, over, draw through all 4 loops, chain 1, fasten in next space with a single, and repeat. this makes a small, pointed scallop and finishes edge of cap. for the button: using the blue yarn, chain 3, 8 doubles in 2d stitch of chain. continue around and around without joining, 1st row with 2 doubles in each stitch, then widen sufficiently to keep the work flat until nearly as large as the button you wish to cover; after one or two more rounds, decrease by working off 3 loops instead of 2, slip the button in and continue, keeping the work tight over the button until you have about half of space covered; then break the yarn, draw up with needle and sew to center of crown. this cap is large enough for a little boy or girl of three years, and may be easily enlarged. the border may be turned down over the ears for extra warmth. child's crocheted hood [illustration: child's crocheted hood] use eiderdown or very heavy germantown worsted, with a hook large enough to carry the wool without fraying. chain 4 stitches, join. 1. chain 3, draw a loop through 2d and 3d stitches of chain, and 2 through the ring; take up wool and work off all together, chain 1 to close the star, draw a loop through eye of star (under 1 chain just made), another through back part of last loop, and 2 in ring; work off as before, and repeat until you have made 6 stars; join. 2. make 12 stars in the row, taking the 4th loop of each star in same stitch with last stitch of preceding star, and 5th in stitch ahead, so that you get 2 stars over each star of preceding row. 3. make 16 stars, widening 4 times. 4, 5, 6. leave 4 stars for back of neck and work back and forth for 3 rows. break wool at end of each row and fasten in at beginning, so the stars will come on the right side; chain 3, draw 2 loops through 2d and 3d stitches of chain, then proceed as usual. make 4 rows of doubles around the lower edge, then a row of stars entirely around the hood, widening by putting an extra star at each corner of front to prevent drawing. for the rosette: chain 3, join; chain 7, * a double treble in ring, chain 3, repeat from * 6 times, and join to 4th of 7 chain. run ribbon in and out the spaces, sew the rosette in place, and finish with ties of ribbon. this hood is easily enlarged, by following general directions, and any stitch, plain or fancy, may be used for it. child's crocheted hood in wedge-stitch [illustration: child's crocheted hood in wedge-stitch] materials required are one and one-half hanks of 4-fold germantown wool, white, or any preferred color, and a bone crochet-hook of medium size. while intended for a small child, this hood may be very easily enlarged to fit any head. chain 4 stitches with white wool, join. 1. chain 3 for a treble, 19 trebles in ring, join. 2. draw up a loop, insert hook in 1st stitch, * wool over, draw up a loop, wool over, hook in next stitch, over, draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all the loops on hook, chain 1, insert hook in same stitch, and repeat from * until there are 19 wedge-stitches in the round. 3. draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a loop, over, insert hook in next space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all loops on the needle, chain 1, * insert hook in same space, draw up a loop, over, insert hook in next space, draw up a loop, over, draw through all stitches on needle, chain 1, and repeat, widening by putting 2 stitches in every 3d of previous round. 4. widen in every 5th stitch. 5. plain, that is, without widening. 6. widen every 3d stitch. 7, 8, 9. plain. 10. plain to within 7 stitches of the end; break wool and fasten in at other end again. 11, 12, 13, 14, 15. same as 10th row, leaving the 7 stitches for back of neck. 16. fasten in, chain 3, and work a treble in every stitch. it is very pretty to use a thread of ice-wool with the germantown when making the border. 17, 18. a double in each stitch around bottom or neck of hood. 19, 20, 21, 22, 23. a double in each stitch across front, working in both veins of stitch. turn back the border, finish with a bow of ribbon at back, a rosette on top, and ribbon ties. to make the hood larger you have but to continue widening the crown until of proper size, which will make the front proportionally longer and leave the neck wider. any fancy stitch may be used in the same way, following the general directions given. child's toque in wedge-stitch [illustration: child's toque in wedge-stitch] this pretty cap, which will fit a girl of ten to fourteen years, and is easily enlarged to any desired size, requires five hanks of eiderdown-wool. if desired, two colors may be used, say white for cap and blue for the turnover or border. it is worked in wedge-stitch, and germantown wool may be used by making more stitches. use a bone hook of suitable size, that is, one which will carry the wool easily without catching in it. make a chain of 4 stitches and join. 1. draw out the loop, insert hook in ring, draw up a loop, wool over, insert hook in ring, draw up another loop, wool over, draw through all the loops on needle, chain 1, and repeat until you have 11 wedge-stitches in the ring; join. 2. draw up loop, insert hook in 1st space, draw up a loop, wool over, hook in next space, draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all loops on needle, chain 1, * hook in same space, draw up a loop, wool over, hook in next space, draw up a loop, wool over, draw through all on hook, chain 1, and repeat from *, widening by making an extra stitch in every other stitch of last round. 3. widen in every 3d stitch. 4. widen in every 6th stitch. work six times around plain, that is, without widening; then if color is used for the turnover join it in and work once around, turn the work so that the border will be right side out when turned up, and work around five times more. make a chain of 18 or 20 stitches, according to length you wish the tassel, wind the wool over four fingers, or a card five inches wide, 20 times, slip off, tie tightly near one end to form the head of tassel, and cut open the other end. * * * * * needlecraft pictures each month new and beautiful pieces of needlework--knitting, crochet, including the exclusive mary card designs, cross-stitch, embroidery, etc. such complete and accurate directions and descriptions are given that any woman can make the articles for herself without further instructions. it explains the stitch to use and shows how to make it. needlecraft will supply you at moderate cost with transfer-patterns, perforated patterns, or stamped goods for every piece of embroidery shown. also many working charts for crochet and cross-stitch designs. needlecraft will show you the latest productions in fashions and will furnish you with the best perfect-fitting, seam-allowing patterns. from these patterns it is easy to make garments for yourself that will look like the pictures. needlecraft gives up-to-date ideas for decorating your home and tells you how to do it at the lowest cost. an interesting and instructive cooking-article appears each month. in short, needlecraft is a magazine that every woman wants and needs, and is one of the most practical home-dressmaking and fancy-work magazines published. needlecraft is printed on large presses made expressly for it and uses the best of new type for each issue. the paper stock has a high finish in order to bring out clearly all the details of the fashion and fancy-work illustrations. the beautifully colored covers are of exclusive design--a very artistic border with the center panel showing a new piece of needlework each month. like needlecraft itself, the covers are different and practical. a sample copy will be sent you free and postpaid. just write your name and address on a postcard and you will receive a copy by return mail; or, better still, send us 35 cents and receive the next twelve issues. you are sure to find those very patterns and designs that you have been looking for. if you are not more than pleased with needlecraft after reading the first number, tell us so and we will cancel your subscription and return your money. needlecraft augusta--maine how to secure your yarn without cost the women of america are knitting as never before. in the social set, no gathering can be fashionable that does not tolerate knitting; the business woman must needs knit on the car to and from her work; while to the busy housewife no duty is so imperative as to exclude knitting from the daily routine. it almost seems as if the women of america--all women, rich and poor alike--were devoting their united efforts to one vast universal consecration--the comfort of our boys over there. there is just one drawback to the fulfilment of this noble ambition that every woman in america shall devote every spare moment to the knitting of warm sweaters, stockings, and other comforts for the boys in khaki, and that is--the tremendously high price of worsted yarns. we can all squeeze out a little more time but we can none of us spend more money than we have, and in these times the calls for cash donations are urgent and not infrequent. but now you can have all the yarn that you will use without spending any money. a little more time is now the only essential to your doing your bit for the comfort of those who are offering their all for our safety. you who have been unable to knit as much as you have wanted to, because you have lacked the means to do with, need feel that drawback no longer. needlecraft has provided ~an assured supply of knitting-worsted in the regulation blue, gray and khaki which you can secure without cost by getting subscriptions to needlecraft on the following liberal terms:~ send us only ~10~ yearly subscriptions to needlecraft at our regular subscription-price of ~35 cents~ each, and we will send each subscriber this paper one year, and we will send you, prepaid, one one-quarter-pound skein of knitting-worsted (premium no. 6395). (we reserve the right to provide an equal weight in balls instead of skeins if necessary.) note--to those who prefer knitting-worsted of some other color for a lady's sweater or any purpose whatever, we will provide it on the same liberal terms; or if you prefer finer yarns we will provide germantown zephyr at four subscriptions a skein (premium no. 6396), and shetland floss at three subscriptions a skein (premium no. 6397). needlecraft augusta--maine [illustration] transcriber's note: in this text version the instructions for designs, which were split over intermittent pages, have been presented in one place for easier following. [illustration: original designs _for_ infants _and_ juveniles _by mary hoyer_ directions on page 9 volume no. 4 ... twenty five cents] [illustration: _dress your child in_ original styles _by_ mary hoyer] _dedicated to those who knit "smartly...."_ here are new worlds for you to conquer ... in a book that meets the needs of both beginner and expert in the art of knitting and crocheting. here are complete instructions that can be followed with the utmost confidence. explore this treasury of original designs. your needles will experience new thrills. you'll have lots of fun. and your children will look smarter than ever before. this book is _yours_! copyrighted 1941 by mary hoyer printed by juvenile styles publishing company, 1008 penn st., reading, pa. a publication devoted to original and distinctive knitted and crocheted garments juvenile styles mary hoyer, editor and designer volume 4 number 7 [illustration] _mothers of all young americans_ the season of 1946-47 promises to be the biggest of all seasons in knitting--you'll be knitting for the boys at camp--and in your spare time for the young americans who are at the fireside with you. so--mothers, get out your knitting needles or crocheting hooks and relax in a nice big chair, turn on your radio to some soothing music, unwind your yarn--and in the pages of this book will be enough inspiration to make mr. and miss young america the world's best dressed children. there are infants and juvenile styles cleverly and colorfully designed--and the smart young miss has her day too, for there are some garments that will be sure to meet with her approval and needs. we sincerely hope that this book will be of invaluable use to those who "knit smartly". mary hoyer if you are unable to obtain our style books at your local yarn shop, send 30c in coin to the following address published by ... juvenile styles publishing company 1008 penn street, reading, pa. _a convalescing jacket ensemble_ no. 800 _needles_--_1 pair bone nos. 3 and 7 american standard._ _material_--_8 one ounce balls, pink saxony, mother's. 2--one ounce balls, pink saxony, baby's. one-half ounce contrasting shade, saxony._ _scale_--_13 sts to 2 inches, no. 7 needles. size 34 mother's, 3 months, baby's._ mother's jacket _back_--with no. 7 needles, cast on 135 sts, *k 3, sl 1 st, repeat from *across row, ending with k 3, p back. repeat these 2 rows for 8 inches. bind off 4 sts at beg of the next 2 rows for underarm (127 sts). k 2 tog at beg of the next 8 rows (119 sts). continue in pattern for 2 more inches. change to no. 3 needles, on right side, *p 2, k 1, repeat from *across row, ending with p 2. on next row, k 2, p 1 across row. repeat these 2 rows, for 5 inches. bind off 7 sts at beg of the next 10 rows, bind off remaining 49 sts for back of neck. _right front_--with no. 7 needles, cast on 71 sts, work in pattern for 8½ inches. bind off 4 sts at beg of the next row at underarm, p 2 tog at beg of the next 4 rows at underarm. work even for 2 more inches. at beg of the next row at front, bind off 4 sts. change to no. 3 needles and repeat yoke pattern (p 2, k 1) for 3 inches, bind off 10 sts at beg of the next row at neck edge. now k 2 tog at beg of every row at neck edge, until 39 sts remain. bind off 7 sts at beg of every row at shoulder, 5 times and continue to k 2 tog at neck edge, until all sts are bound off. work left front to correspond. _sleeves_--with no. 3 needles, cast on 65 sts, work in pattern, p 2, k 1, ending with p 2. next row, k 2, p 1, ending row with k 2, repeat these 2 rows for 3 inches. work 1 more row and inc 1 st at beg and end of row. change to no. 7 needles and work in pattern, k 3, slip 1 st, end row with k 3. p back. continue to work in pattern and inc 1 st at beg and end of every 6th row until you have 107 sts. work even until sleeve measures 20 inches from cuff or desired length to underarm. bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, then bind off 2 sts at beg of the next 2 rows. now k 2 tog at beg and end of every k row until 53 sts remain, bind off. sew up seams at underarm and shoulder, sew up sleeves and insert into armhole gathering at top a little. hem the 4 bound off sts at front. work 2 rows of s c around yoke and neck working 3 loops for buttonholes on right side of yoke, on first row. with contrasting shade start smocking on right hand side at bottom of yoke. sew the first 2 k sts tog, then the next 2 k sts, leave the thread loose between the 2 smocked sts. repeat across row. start 2nd row, turn, skip first k st and work back in same manner. work fronts and 5 rows of smocking on cuffs in same manner. sew on buttons. baby's jacket _back_--with no. 7 needles, cast on 91 sts, *k 3, sl 1 st, repeat from *across row, ending with k 3, p back. repeat these 2 rows for 4 inches. bind off 4 sts at beg of the next 2 rows (83 sts). work in pattern for ¾ inch more. with no. 3 needles, *p 2, k 1 (right side), repeat from *across row, ending with p 2. next row, k 2, p 1, repeat these 2 rows for 2¼ inches. bind off 6 sts at beg of the next 8 rows, bind off remaining 35 sts for back of neck. _right front_--with no. 7 needles, cast on 47 sts, work in pattern for 4 inches, bind off 4 sts at beg of the next row at underarm, k back. purl 2 sts tog at underarm, work pattern for ¾ inch more. bind off 4 sts at beg of the next row at front edge (hem). with no. 3 needles, *p 2, k 1, repeat from *across row, next row k 2, p 1, across row. repeat these 2 rows for 1½ inches. at beg of next row at front edge, bind off 6 sts, then k 2 tog at beg of every row at neck edge, until you have 27 sts left. bind off 6 sts at beg of the next 4 rows at shoulder edge and continue to k 2 tog at neck edge, until all sts are bound off. work left front to correspond. _sleeves_--with no. 3 needles, cast on 44 sts, p 2, k 1, across row. next row, k 2, p 1, repeat these 2 rows for 1 inch. with no. 7 needles, k 3, slip 1 st, ending with k 3 (k last 2 sts tog), p back. work in pattern, increasing 1 st at each end, every inch, until sleeve measures 4 inches (51 sts). work 1 inch even. bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows. k 2 tog at beg of every row, until you have 35 sts left, bind off. sew up seams at underarm and shoulder, sew up sleeves and insert into armhole gathering at top a little. hem the 4 bound off sts at front. work 2 rows of s c around yoke and neck working 2 loops for buttonholes on right side of yoke, on first row. with contrasting shade start smocking on right hand side at bottom of yoke. sew the first 2 k sts tog, then the next 2 k sts, leave the thread loose between the 2 smocked sts. repeat across row. start 2nd row turn, skip first k st and work back in same manner. work fronts and 3 rows of smocking on cuffs in same manner. sew on buttons. booties with no. 3 needles, cast on 47 sts, *k 3, sl 1 st, repeat from *across row, ending with k 3, p back. repeat these 2 rows for 4 inches. on right side, k 1, *y o, k 2 tog, repeat from *across row, p back. k 15, then p 2, k 1, for 17 sts, turn, k 2, p 1 for 17 sts. repeat these 2 rows on 17 sts for 26 rows, break thread. holding right side toward you, pick up 12 sts on side of instep, k across front of instep, pick up 12 sts on other side of instep, k on last 15 sts. k 7 rows even. *on next row dec 1 st at each end and 4 sts spaced at equal distances apart. k 3 rows even, repeat from *2 times, bind off. sew seam at sole and back. with 2 strands of yarn, ch 90 sts. tape thru beading. sew ½ inch hem in top of bootie. [illustration: no. 800 the very smartest thing for the convalescing mother and child is this matching ensemble in shell pink with turquoise smocking. mother wears a jacket--and baby too wears a jacket with booties to match. _detailed illustration of booties on page 5._ _directions on opposite page._] _his majesty_ no. 801 [illustration] knitted infant set size--infant _needles_--_1 pair american standard no. 3 (or circular)._ _material_--_saxony--3 fold. sacque--2 one ounce balls. cap--1 one ounce ball. booties--one-half ounce._ _gauge_--_8 sts to one inch._ sacque starting at neck, cast on 78 sts. k 3 rows. row 1--k 3, *y o, k 2 tog, repeat from *across row, ending with y o, k 2 tog, k 1. row 2--k 1 row. row 3--*k 3, inc in next st, repeat from *across row, do not inc in last 4 sts thruout yoke. rows 4-5-6-7--k. repeat from row 1 to 7, 3 more times. p 1 row, k 1 row, for 6 rows, keeping first and last 3 sts k on purled rows for border. k 1 row on purled side. repeat row 3. k 3 rows. repeat rows 1 to 5 inclusive (282 sts). k 100 sts, k back on 58 sts for sleeve. *p 1 row, k 1 row for 6 rows on sleeve. k 6 rows (3 ribs), making a dec at beg and end of first k row, repeat from *2 times. p 1 row, k 1 row for 6 rows, on 6th row, *k 3, k 2 tog, repeat from *across row. k 6 rows. repeat rows 1 and 2. k 4 rows, bind off loosely on wrong side. k across back and 2nd sleeve (140 sts), k back on 58 sts for sleeve. work sleeve same as other sleeve. fasten thread and k over front 42 sts. k back having all sts on needle. *p 1 row, k 1 row for 6 rows, always keeping first and last 3 sts k on purled rows for border. k 6 rows (3 ribs). repeat from *2 times. k 1 row, p 1 row for 6 rows. k 4 rows, bind off loosely on wrong side. with double strands of yarn, chain 100 sts, tape thru beading at neck. sew up sleeve seams. cap with no. 1 needles, cast on 92 sts, k 2, p 2 for ¾ of an inch. change to no. 3 needles, *p 1 row, k 1 row for 6 rows. k 6 rows (3 ribs), repeat from *3 more times. p 1 row, k 1 row for 6 rows. on next k row, bind off 31 sts loosely, k 30, bind off 31 sts, loosely. fasten thread at beginning of the 30 sts and work in garter st for 1 inch. on next row, *dec 5 sts at equal distances apart. work 1 inch even, repeat from *once, work ½ inch even. sew sides to back piece. with no. 1 needles, pick up (on right side) 80 sts across bottom of cap and k 2, p 2 for 4 rows. next row, k 1, *y o, k 2 tog, repeat from *across row. k 2, p 2 for 6 more rows, bind off loosely. make a chain of s c about 21 inches long with 2 strands of yarn, tape thru beading. [illustration: no. 801 picture the king or queen of your household be-decked in this saxony cap, sacque, and bootie ensemble. the young heir surely deserves to look his--or her--best at all times. smocked booties are detail of booties style 800. directions on page 2.] knee bootie with no. 3 needles, cast on 48 sts, k 1, p 1, ribbing for 6 rows. k 1, *y o, k 2 tog, repeat from *across row. continue to k 1, p 1, for 6 rows. to start knee shaping: k 31, turn, k 14, turn, k 15, turn, k 16, turn. continue to k 1 st more on every row for 20 rows, then k 2 sts more on every row until all 48 sts are on needle. *work 1 inch even, dec 1 st at beg and end of next row, repeat from *until back seam measures 4½ inches from ribbing (40 sts). beading: k 1, *y o, k 2 tog, repeat from *across row. k 3 ribs. now k across 27 sts, turn, k 14 sts, turn, on these 14 sts, k 24 rows (12 ribs), for instep. break thread. holding right side toward you, pick up 12 sts on side of instep. continue across front of instep, pick up 12 sts on other side of instep, k on last 13 sts (64 sts). k 7 rows even. *on next row, dec 1 st at each end and 4 sts spaced at equal distances apart. k 3 rows even, repeat from *2 times. bind off, sew seam at sole and back. with 2 strands of yarn, ch 90 sts. tape thru beading. short booties with no. 3 needles, cast on 40 sts loosely. k 5 rows (3 ribs). on next row, k 1, *y o, k 2 tog, repeat from *across row. *k 3 ribs. k 1 row, p 1 row for 6 rows, repeat from *once. k 3 ribs. next row, k 1 *y o, k 2 tog, repeat from *across row. k 3 ribs. now k across 27 sts, turn, k 14 sts, turn, on these 14 sts, k 24 rows (12 ribs) for instep. break thread. holding right side toward you, pick up 12 sts on side of instep. continue across front of instep, pick up 12 sts on other side of instep, k on last 13 sts (64 sts). k 7 rows even. *on next row, dec 1 st at each end and 4 sts spaced at equal distances apart. k 3 rows even, repeat from *2 times. bind off, sew seam at sole and back. with 2 strands of yarn, ch 90 sts. tape thru beading. _baby's three-piece crocheted set_ no. 802 [illustration] size 6 months _1 bone crochet hook, size 3._ _material_--_baby zephyr pompadour. 3 one ounce balls pink. 1 one ounce ball, blue. for sacque, cap and booties._ sacque _row 1_--with pink, ch 62 sts (to measure 9½ inches, loosely), work 1 s c in 2nd ch from hook, 1 s c in next st, 2 s c in next ch, 1 s c in each of the next 2 ch, *skip 1 s c, 1 s c in each of the next 2 ch, 2 s c in next st, 1 s c in each of the next 2 ch, repeat from *across row, ending with 3 s c (10 points). _row 2_--ch 1, turn, work 1 s c in each of the next 2 sts (picking up back loop only), 2 s c in next st, 1 s c in each of the next 2 sts, *skip 1 s c, 1 s c in each of the next 2 sts, 2 s c in next st, 1 s c in each of the next 2 sts, repeat from *across row, ending with 3 s c, do not break thread. _row 3_--with blue, ch 1, turn, repeat row 2 for 2 rows of blue. alternate pink and blue every 2 rows, until you have 18 rows. _row 19_--ch 1, turn, follow pattern for 3 points and end with 3 s c (19 s c for shoulder) work on these 19 sts for 9 rows. ch 12 sts loosely at neck edge. s c in 2nd ch from hook, s c in next st, *2 s c in next st, 1 s c in each of the next 2 sts, skip 1 st, 1 s c in each of the next 2 sts, repeat from *across row, ending with 3 s c (5 points). work on these 5 points for 15 rows, break thread. with blue, attach yarn at neck edge and work over 3 points, ending with 3 s c. work to correspond to other front. the front just completed will have 1 more row than the other side. continue with pink, ch 4, turn, *skip 2 sts, work 4 d c in next st, picking up both threads, skip 3 sts, 1 d c in next st, 1 d c in last st just skipped (making an x), repeat from *across front, ending with 4 d c in last st, ch 10, work 4 d c in first st on back, skip 3 sts, 1 d c in next st, 1 d c in st just skipped, repeat between **across back, ending with a shell. ch 10 for underarm and continue across front, beg with a shell ending row with 1 d c in last st. ch 4, turn, *skip 2 d c, d c in next st, d c in st just skipped, 4 d c between the x pattern, repeat from *across front. skip 1 ch, work 4 d c in next ch, skip 3 ch, d c in next ch, d c in st just skipped. skip 2 ch, 4 d c in next ch. follow pattern across back, underarm and front; end row with 1 d c in ch 3 at beg of row. ch 4, work remainder of sacque same as last 2 rows for 8 more rows. break thread. [illustration: no. 802 baby graduates with highest honors from style 801 to this set for that afternoon stroll with mother. just the thing to wear to get those beneficial sunrays. made in delicate pink and blue of baby zephyr pompadour.] _scallop_--with blue, fasten thread at left hand corner, ch 1, *work 6 d c in center of x pattern, s c in center of next pattern, repeat from *end row with a shell and s c in corner. with pink, fasten thread at front edge on right side and s c up front, then ch 3 at neck edge, *skip 1 st, d c in next st, repeat from *around neck, s c down left front. work picot on bottom as follows: *ch 1, loosely, sl st into next st, repeat from *around bottom, break thread. _sleeves_--with pink fasten thread at underarm, work 1 s c around armhole. row 1--ch 4, *skip 2 s c, work 4 d c in next st, skip 3 s c, d c in next st, d c in st just skipped, repeat from *around row, ending with d c in same st as ch at beg of row (8 shell, 8 x patterns), sl st in 3rd ch. sl st 3 more sts, ch 4. row 2--work 4 d c between next x pattern, continue pattern around row and end row same as row 1. work 11 more rows in same manner. on 14th row, work 3 d c in x pattern and an x pattern in each shell. _cuff_--work 2 rows of s c with pink (decreasing every 5th st on first row). work 2 rows of blue. sl st at end of last row, ch 1. _scallops_--with blue, *skip 2 s c, work 6 d c in next st, skip 2 s c, s c in next st, repeat from *around row. with pink, *ch 1, loosely, sl st into next st, repeat from *around row, break thread. _cord_--with 1 strand of pink and blue, make a ch 22 inches in length, tape thru beading. make a ch 9 inches long tape thru end of yoke. cap ch 3, join, work 7 s c in ring, then work 2 s c in each st, until there are 24 sts around. inc in every 5th st, until there are 45 sts around. now inc in every 10th st, until there are 73 sts around, sl st in next st. to start pattern: row 1--ch 4, *skip 1 s c, work 5 d c in next st, skip 2 s c, d c in next st, d c in last st just skipped (making an x pattern), repeat from *around row ending with 1 d c in same st at beg of ch 3, join in 3rd st of ch at beg of row. (15 shell, 15 x patterns). sl st over 3 sts of first shell at beg of row, ch 4. row 2--*work 5 d c between x of row below, 1 d c between 3rd and 4th d c of next shell, 1 d c between 2nd and 3rd d c of same shell (making an x), repeat from *around row, ending with 1 d c in same st at beg of row. sl st in 3rd ch at beg of row, sl st over 3 d c, ch 4. row 3--work 5 d c in center of x pattern, work an x in next shell, continue around row, ending with sl st in ch 3 at beg of row, sl st over 3 d c, ch 4. row 4--repeat row 2. row 5--make an x in next shell of row below, work in pattern around row for 13 shells, 12 x patterns, end row with 1 d c in 2nd d c of next shell, ch 4, turn. row 6--make an x pattern in first shell, continue pattern around row, ending with x pattern in last shell, make 1 d c in 3rd ch at beg of row, ch 3, turn. work 7 more rows in this manner. _band_--ch 1, turn, *work 1 s c in each of the first 2 sts, 2 s c in next st, 1 s c in each of the next 2 sts, skip 2 sts, repeat from *across row, end with 3 s c, ch 1, turn. row 2--*1 s c in each of the first 2 sts, picking up back thread only, 2 s c in next st, 1 s c in each of the next 2 sts, skip 1 st, repeat from *across row, ending with 3 s c. with contrasting shade work 2 rows. alternating 2 rows of each color once more. with 1 strand of pink, 1 strand of blue work 2 rows of s c around back of cap, skipping a few sts in each row to fit nape of neck. _ties_--at end of last row, ch 48 sts, sl st in 4th ch from hook, ch 4, sl st in same st. make 2 more ch 4 loops, break thread, fasten thread at other side of cap and work in same manner. booties _instep_--with pink, ch 13, work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 s c in next st, 2 s c in next st, 1 s c in each of the next 2 sts, skip 1 st, 1 s c in each of the next 2 sts, 2 s c in next st, 1 s c in each of the last 3 sts. ch 1, turn. row 2--work 1 s c in each of the next 2 sts (picking up back st), 2 s c in next st, 1 s c in each of the next 2 sts, skip 1 st, 1 s c in each of the next 2 sts, 2 s c in next st, 1 s c in each of the last 3 sts, do not break thread. work 2 rows of contrasting shade, alternating 2 rows of each color, until you have 10 rows. with pink, ch 28 sts loosely and sl st to other end. s c in each st around instep and chs, for 5 rnds. work 5 more rnds, decreasing 3 sts to each rnd, do not have decreases come over those of previous rnd, break thread and sew seam of sole. work 2 rows of s c around top of bootie, decreasing 3 sts in each rnd, join with a sl st. ch 4, skip 1 st, work *1 d c in next st, ch 1, repeat from * (19 d c), join with a sl st. ch 3, skip ch 3 of row below. *work 4 d c between next 2 d c, skip 1 d c, d c between next 2 d c, d c between last 2 d c just skipped (an x pattern), repeat from *around row, end row with 1 d c in same st as ch 3 at beg of row, sl st in 3rd ch. sl st over 3 sts, ch 4, work 4 d c between first x pattern, make an x pattern over next shell, end row same as first row. work 3 more rows in same manner. with blue, work scallops as follows: sl st over 3 sts, ch 1, *work 6 d c in x pattern, s c in center of next scallop, repeat from *around bootie; sl st in same st at beg of row. with pink, *ch 1, loosely, sl st in next st, repeat from *around row. with 1 strand of pink, 1 blue, ch 74 sts, tape thru bootie and tie. _royal highness_ no. 803 cape and hood in "summer sky blue" size--6 months to 1 year _needles_--_1 pair american standard no. 2. 1 circular no. 4._ _material_--_paradise zephyr 10 ounces._ _gauge_--_6 sts to 1 inch._ cape starting at neck, with no. 2 needles, cast on 76 sts, k 1, p 1, for 3 rows. beading: k 1, *y o, k 2 tog, repeat from *across row. k 1, p 1 for 3 rows, cast on 2 sts. change to no. 4 circular needle. _yoke_--work in garter st (k each row). row 1--k 8, *inc 1 st, k 5, repeat from *across row to within last 8 sts, k 8. do not inc in first and last 8 sts thruout yoke. cast on 2 sts. row 2--k 1 row. row 3--on next row, k back to within last 4 sts, bind off 2 sts for buttonhole, k 2. on next row, cast on 2 sts over those bound off, k across row. *repeat row 1 (but do not cast on the 2 sts). k 3 rows even. repeat from *until you have 182 sts, working 2 more buttonholes, 1 inch apart. on next row, k 24 sts, *slip 1 st, k 18 sts, repeat from *to within 25 sts, slip 1 st, k 24. on next row, k 3, p to within last 3 sts (purling the sl st), k 3, repeat these 2 rows for 1 inch. on next k row, k 3, inc 1 st, k 9, inc 1 st, k 10, sl 1 st, continuing pattern across row, making an inc in center of each gore. inc in 4th to last st same as beg of row. work even for 1 inch. inc in same manner every inch, until cape measures 11 inches from end of yoke. k 12 rows, 6 ribs, bind off loosely on wrong side. _cord_--ch 3, join, work 5 s c in ring. work 2 s c in each st, until you have 12 s c. work even until you have 5 rows. fill with cotton. s c around decreasing a few sts in each row to close opening. ch 24 inches. make another ball in same manner and attach to 2nd end. [illustration: no. 803 even the baby is thought of when it comes to knitting--perhaps more so than the adult--for here is baby's early fall cape and hood for those evenings when it is just a bit too cool for baby to be without some sort of covering. here is a practical answer, and an answer soft and alluring. the embroidery on the cape and hood has that "smart touch" that gives the garment a look of regality--for his--or her--_royal highness_--the baby.] hood starting at first half of neck edge, with no. 2 needles, cast on 42 sts, k 1, p 1 for 4 rows. change to no. 4 needles. *k 1 row, p 1 row for 1 inch always knitting first 4 sts on purled rows for border at front. now k 2 sts tog at back edge, repeat from *until piece measures 5 inches, 37 sts (measuring after the k 1, p 1 edge). work 1 inch even. to start peak at top: _row 1_--k 30 sts, turn. _row 2_ and all even rows, p back, slipping first st. _row 3_--k 24, turn. _row 5_--k 18, turn. _row 7_--k 12, turn. _row 9_--k 6, turn. all sts are now on left hand needle (this completes half of hood). on next row starting at back, k 9, turn. following row: k 15, turn. next row k 21, turn. continue in this manner, increasing 6 sts every other row, until you have 33 sts on right hand needle, turn. p back and on next row, k 37. work other half to correspond increasing 1 st every inch at back edge. fold in half and sew seam. sew hood to cape, starting about 2 inches from beading at beg of cape, gathering across leaving 2 inches at end. _linda_ no. 804 coat and bonnet size 2-4 years _needles_--_bone american standard no. 5. 1 bone crochet hook, size 5._ _material_--_knitting worsted, 4 fold. coat--10 ounces. bonnet--3 ounces. 5 yards of hat cord. 4 wooden buttons._ _gauge_--_6 sts to 1 inch k. 5 sts to 1 inch cr._ coat _back_--cast on 108 sts (116 sts, size 4), work in garter st (k each row), for 1 inch. p 1 row, k 1 row, for 2 inches, 3 inches from bottom. on next k row, dec 4 sts as follows: k 2 tog, k 33, k 2 tog, k 34, k 2 tog k 33, k 2 tog (104 sts). work 1 inch even. k 2 tog, k 32, k 2 tog, k 32, k 2 tog, k 32, k 2 tog (100 sts). work 1 inch even. make another dec in same manner, having decreases come directly above those of previous rows, every inch until you have 9 inches, 80 sts. work 2 inches even or desired length to underarm. bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows for under arm, then k 2 tog at beg of the next 4 rows (70 sts). work 4 rows even. on next k row, *k 3, k 2 tog, repeat from *across row but do not k last 2 sts tog. yoke is worked in garter st for 3 inches (3½ inches, size 4). bind off 4 sts at beg of the next 8 rows, bind off remaining sts for back of neck. _left front_--cast on 58 sts (60 sts, size 4), work in garter st for 1 inch. k 5 sts for border, p across, k 1 row, p 1 row for 2 inches always k 5 sts on purled rows at front for border. on next k row, dec 2 sts as follows: k 2 tog, k 24, k 2 tog, k 30 (56 sts). work 1 inch even. k 2 tog, k 23, k 2 tog, k 29 (54 sts). work 1 inch even. make another dec in same manner, having decreases come directly above those of previous row, every inch, until you have 9 inches, 44 sts. work 2 inches even or desired length to underarm. bind off 3 sts at beg of the next row that begins at underarm, then k 2 sts tog at beg of every row at underarm, 3 times (38 sts). work 3 rows even. on next k row, *k 2 tog, k 2 repeat from *across row, k last 5 sts. work yoke in garter st for 2 inches (2½ inches, size 4). bind off 7 sts at neck edge, then k 2 sts tog at beg of every row at neck edge, until you have 20 sts. bind off 4 sts on next 4 rows that begin at armhole and dec 1 st on every row that begins at neck edge. _right front_--work to correspond until piece measures 8 inches, measuring on border at front. work buttonholes as follows: k 3 sts on border side, bind off 2 sts for buttonhole, k across. on next row, cast on 2 sts over those bound off on previous row. continue same as left side and continue buttonholes 1½ inches apart. _sleeves_--cast on 32 sts, (36 sts, size 4), work in garter st for 2 inches (2½ inches, size 4). on next row, *k 2, inc 1 st repeat from *across row (42 sts). *k 1 row, p 1 row for 1 inch, inc 1 st at each end, repeat from *until sleeve measures 6 inches from bottom (50 sts). work 2 inches even, or desired length to underarm. bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, then 2 sts (5 sts off on each side). k 2 sts tog at beg and end of every 4th row, until you have 28 sts, bind off. _pockets_--cast on 14 sts, p back. inc in first and last st on k rows, until you have 18 sts. k 1 row, p 1 row, until piece measures 2¼ inches. *k 1, k 2 tog, repeat from *across row. k in garter st for ¾ inch, bind off loosely. sew fronts and back tog, sew sleeves tog and insert into armholes with seams meeting at underarm. sew on buttons. _collar_--holding wrong side toward you, skip 3 sts, pick up 47 sts to within last 3 sts. k first 3 sts, p to within last 3 sts, k 3 sts. on next row, inc in every 4th st across row. work ½ inch even. inc in every 5th st across. work ½ inch even. inc in every 6th st. work 5 rows in garter st, bind off on wrong side. sew pockets and embroider as shown on illustration. [illustration: no. 804 a welcome addition to any young lady's wardrobe. notice particularly the treatment of the hat--decidedly new and very young ladyish with hand embroidered grosgrain ribbon on the brim and on the pockets. just the thing for those cool evenings in summer or fall.] bonnet _crown_--ch 3, join, work 7 s c in ring, work 2 s c in each st until there are 24 sts around. now inc 1 st in every 5th st, until there are 50 sts around, then every 15th st until there are 100 sts. work even until crown measures 5 inches from center to edge. dec 3 sts to each rnd but do not have decreases over those on previous rows, until crown measures 5½ inches from center to edge or desired headsize. ch 1, turn, work 1 row of s c around bonnet to within 20 sts at beg of row. *ch 1, turn, work 1 row of s c in each st across row to within ch 1, at beg of row, repeat from *6 more times. on next row, sew cord at beg of row, *s c over cord increasing every 4th st. adjust cord at end of each row, ch 1, turn, repeat from *for 1 more row. on next 2 rows inc in every 12th st. on next 2 rows inc in every 20th st. on last 2 rows, work even. cut cord and sew. work 1 row of s c over ends of brim and back of cap. block lightly. embroider flowers on grosgrain ribbon and sew on sides and front of brim. sew grosgrain ribbon in same manner on back of brim. turn back 5 rows without cord and attach bows on each side as shown on illustration. _bonnie annie laurie_ illustration on front cover no. 805 plaid coat and bonnet in royal blue size 4 to 6 years _needles_--_1 pair american standard no. 5._ _material_--_knitting worsted, 3 four ounce skeins. sports yarn (for embroidering) red, yellow, green. 16-inch zipper open._ _gauge_--_5½ sts to 1 inch._ coat _back_--starting at bottom, cast on 102 sts, (108 sts, size 6), k 8 rows (4 ribs). p 1 row, k 1 row for 2½ inches. now dec 4 sts as follows: k 2 tog, k 31, k 2 tog, k 32, k 2 tog, k 31, k 2 tog (98 sts). work 1 inch even. make another dec: k 2 tog, k 30, k 2 tog, k 30, k 2 tog, k 30, k 2 tog (94 sts). *work 1 inch even and make another dec in same manner, having decreases come directly above those of previous decreases, repeat from *until piece measures 11 inches (66 sts). work 1 inch even (3 inches, size 6). *now inc 1 st on each side, work 1 inch even, repeat from *once. work even until back measures 17 inches or desired length to underarm. bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, then k 2 tog at beg of the next 6 rows (6 sts off on each side). work even until armhole measures 5 inches (5½ inches, size 6), measuring straight up from where the 3 sts were bound off. bind off 5 sts at beg of the next 6 rows, bind off remaining sts loosely for back of neck. _left front_--cast on 52 sts (56 sts, size 6). k 8 rows (4 ribs). p 1 row, k 1 row for 2½ inches, always keeping first 3 sts k on purled rows for border at front. now dec 2 sts as follows: k 2 tog, k 23, k 2 tog, k 25 (50 sts). work 1 inch even and *make another dec in same manner, work 1 inch even. repeat from *until piece measures 11 inches (34 sts). work 1 inch even (3 inches, size 6). *now inc 1 st at seam end, work 1 inch even, repeat from *once. work even until front measures 17 inches or desired length to underarm. bind off 4 sts at beg of next row for underarm, then k 2 tog at beg of every row at underarm 3 more times. work even until armhole measures 3½ inches from where the 4 sts were bound off (4 inches, 6 years). on next row that begins at neck edge, bind off 6 sts. p 2 sts tog at beg of every row at neck edge, until 18 sts remain. bind off 5 sts at beg of the next 3 rows at shoulder and continue to p 2 tog at neck, until all sts are bound off. work right front to correspond. [illustration: no. 805 smart, colorful and easy on the eye is this two-piece ensemble for the young lady. the coat is first knit and then the plaid is embroidered in green, yellow and red. the only note of contrasting plainness is in the collar of the coat and the back of the bonnet. the coat closes with a convenient zipper.] _sleeves_--cast on 38 sts (42 sts, size 6), k 8 rows (4 ribs). now p 1 row, k 1 row for 2½ inches, *inc 1 st on each end, work even for 1 inch, repeat from *until sleeve measures 10 inches from beginning (54 sts). work 1 inch even or desired length to underarm. bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, then k 2 tog at beg and end of every k row, until 18 sts remain. work other sleeve in same manner. embroidering (see swatch). fold back in half at neck edge, place a marker. count 7 sts on left side of marker. with red yarn insert tapestry needle from wrong side to right side. *now insert needle over 1 thread and down 1 thread, bringing needle from wrong to right side 2 threads below, repeat from *to bottom of coat. count 7 sts to right of marker, with red, make another row in same manner. fasten ends securely. count 14 sts on either side of these 2 rows and make 1 more row with red, in same manner. with yellow work 1 row on next thread to right side of each red row. measure 2 inches from bottom of back, with red make a running st, inserting needle over 1 thread and under 2 threads across row, do not pull too tightly. *skip 17 rows of knitting and on 18th row, make another running st with red, repeat from *to top of coat. with green make 1 row below red in same manner. _fronts_--on 5th row from shoulder edge, with red, work from top to bottom same as back. count 14 rows, with red, make another row in same manner. measure 2 inches from bottom, work running sts with red and green to match back. _sleeves_--make same st from top of sleeve to bottom starting in center of sleeve, with red and yellow. skip 14 rows on either side make one more row, with red and yellow. work running sts with red and green starting 2 inches from bottom of coat, every 18th row to top of sleeve. sew shoulder seams. _collar_--holding wrong side of coat toward you, pick up 52 sts. p 1 row, k 1 row, knitting first and last 3 sts on p rows for border for ½ inch. inc in every 6th st across row. work ½ inch even. inc in every 7th st across. work ½ inch even. inc every 8th st across. work ½ inch even. work 3 ribs in garter st, bind off loosely on wrong side. sew back to fronts and sew up sleeves, insert into armholes, having seams meet at underarm. make two small inverted pleats at top of sleeves. insert zipper. bonnet starting at side of front. with no. 5 needles, cast on 20 sts, p 1 row, k 1 row for 3 rows, inc 1 st at beg of next row (place marker, this is back edge). work 3 rows even. inc 1 st at beg of next row, continue to inc 1 st at beg of every 4th row, until you have 29 sts. work even until piece measures 8 inches from beg. now dec 1 st at back edge every 4th row, until you have 20 sts. work 3 rows even, bind off. _back_--cast on 32 sts. p 1 row, k 1 row, for 1 inch. *on next row, inc 1 st at beg and end, work 1 inch even, repeat from *until piece measures 4 inches, 40 sts. *now work 3 rows even, dec 1 st at beg and end of next k row, repeat from *2 more times (34 sts). k 2 tog at beg and end of every row, until 26 sts remain. fold front piece of cap in half crosswise, place marker. count 9 sts on each side of marker. with red yarn make a running st inserting needle over one thread and under 2 threads across row, do not pull too tightly. skip 9 sts from other side of marker, work another row in same manner. work 2 more rows, 18 rows from each side of rows just finished. with green work one more row in same manner 1 st above. count 8 rows from straight end of piece, work yarn lengthwise with red as follows: *insert needle over one thread and down one thread bringing needle from wrong to right side 2 threads below. repeat from *to end of piece. count 14 rows (about 2½ inches from end of piece), with red make another row in same manner. with yellow make another row in same manner one thread above. sew ½ inch hem on straight end of front piece; sew other end to back piece (place marker at center of each piece first). work 2 rows of s c around bottom of cap. attach small bows made of grosgrain ribbon leaving ends to tie. attach feather as shown on illustration. purse _purse_--cast on 26 sts, p 1 row, k 1 row for 4 inches or enough rows to make a perfect square. work another piece in same manner. embroider stripes same as in coat about ¾ inch from sides. sew 2 sides tog s c around other 2 sides. strap--ch 4, work 1 s c in 2nd ch from hook, 1 s c in each of the next 2 sts. *ch 1, turn, work 1 s c in each of the 3 sts, repeat from *until piece measures 8 inches. sew ends to top of squares. insert 2 four inch zippers (or 1 zipper if preferred). attach tassels on zipper ends, made with a few strands of yarn. _sunny_ no. 806 slip-over-cardigan-panties size--6 months to one year _needles_--_no. 3 american standard._ _material_--_kashmir fleece--5 one ounce balls._ _½ yard of elastic._ _13 pearl buttons._ _gauge_--_8 sts to 1 inch._ slip-over _back_--starting at bottom, cast on 76 sts (80 sts, size 1), k 1, p 1 for 2 inches. k 1 row, p 1 row for 4½ inches, (5 inches, size 1). bind off 4 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, then k 2 tog at beg of the next 4 rows (64 sts). work even for 3 inches (3½ inches, size 1). k 6 rows (3 ribs). on next row k 20, bind off 24 sts loosely, k 20. on these 20 sts, p 1 row, k 1 row for 4 rows, k 2 rows, bind off loosely. fasten thread at beg of the other shoulder and work in same manner. [illustration: no. 806 the suit consists of slip-over cardigan and panties and is just the thing for a one year old to wear when welcoming his--or her--first birthday party guests. the king of the house will do justice to this handsome suit.] _front_--work front same as for back to underarm. bind off 4 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, then k 2 tog at beg of the next 4 rows (64 sts). on next purled row, p 31, k 2, p 31. k back. on next purled row, p 25, k 2, p 4, k 2, p 4, k 2, p 25. k back. continue pattern in this manner 6 more sts in pattern on each side, on purled rows, until all sts are in pattern. work in pattern until armhole measures same as for back, having last 3 ribs k in garter st. on next row, k 20, bind off 24 sts loosely, k 20. on these 20 sts, k 4 rows (2 ribs), on next row, work buttonholes as follows: k 4 sts at shoulder edge, bind off 2, k 4, bind off 2, k 4, bind off 2, k 2. on next row, cast on 2 sts over those bound off. k 2 more rows, bind off. work other shoulder to correspond. fold shoulders tog, having buttonholes overlap the stockinette st band. when picking up sleeve sts, pick up sts thru both pieces at top of shoulder. _sleeves_--pick up 58 sts, starting after the 6 bound off sts, to 6 bound off sts at other end. p back, pick up 2 sts at each end of every row, until all sts are picked up (70 sts). *work ½ inch or 4 rows, k 2 tog at beg and end of next row, repeat from *until sleeve measures 6 inches (46 sts). k 1, p 1 (ribbing), for 1 inch, bind off loosely. sew on buttons with tape on shoulder piece. boat is worked in cross stitch as shown on illustration. cardigan _back_--starting at bottom, cast on 76 sts (80 sts, size 1), k 1, p 1 for 2 inches. k 1 row, p 1 row for 5 inches (5½ inches, size 1). bind off 4 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, then k 2 tog at beg of the next 4 rows (64 sts). work even for 3 inches (3½ inches, size 1). k 6 rows (3 ribs). on next row k 20, bind off 24 sts loosely, k 20. on these 20 sts, p 1 row, k 1 row for 4 rows. (put other 20 sts on st holder). now inc 1 st at beg of every k row at neck edge, until you have 30 sts. cast on 5 sts at neck edge. p 1 row, k 1 row always keeping last 5 sts k on purled rows for border. work 1½ inches from beginning of border, then inc 1 st at end of k rows, 2 times at underarm, then cast on 4 sts at underarm. work even for 5 inches continuing border. k 1, p 1 ribbing for 2 inches, bind off loosely, k 1, p 1. work right front to correspond. start buttonholes 1 inch from beg of border as follows: k 3, bind off 2, p across. on next row, cast on 2 sts over those bound off. continue 5 more buttonholes 1½ inches apart. _band at neck_--pick up 82 sts, k 1, p 1 ribbing for 1 row, on next row, k 1, p 1, k 1, bind off 2 sts, k 1, p 1 across row. on next row cast on 3 sts over those bound off. k 1, p 1 for 2 more rows, bind off, k 1, p 1. _sleeves_--pick up 58 sts, starting after the 6 bound off sts, to 6 bound off sts at other end. p back. pick up 2 sts at each end of every row, until all sts are picked up (70 sts). *work ½ inch or 4 rows, k 2 tog at beg and end of next row, repeat from *until sleeve measures 6 inches (46 sts). k 1, p 1 (ribbing), for 1 inch, bind off loosely. sew up side seams and sleeves. sew on buttons with ribbon on wrong side. panties cast on 76 sts, loosely (80 sts, size 1), k 1, p 1 for 6 rows. next row, k 1, *y o, k 2 tog, repeat from *across row. k 1, p 1 for 6 more rows. k 1 row, p 1 row for 7 inches from start (7½ inches, size 1). to start shaping of crotch; k 36, inc in next st, k 2, inc in next st, k 36, p back. k 36, inc in next st, k 4, inc in next st, k 36, p back. k 36 sts and inc in same manner, having 2 more sts between increases until you have 6 sts between increases. bind off 4 sts at beg of each row (continue to inc for crotch in same manner), until all sts are bound off on each side of crotch (24 sts). k 1 row, p 1 row on these 24 sts (crotch) for 1½ inches. cast on 4 sts at end of every row and dec in same manner as you increased, thus having 2 sts less on each k row, between crotch. k 1 row, p 1 row on 76 sts, for 6½ inches (7 inches, size 1). k 1, p 1, for 6 rows. next row, k 1, *y o, k 2 tog, repeat from *across row. k 1, p 1 for 6 more rows, bind off loosely. pick up 80 sts around each leg, k 1, p 1, ribbing for 1 inch, bind off loosely. fold tog on wrong side easing longer side in for back. tape with elastic. [illustration] _land of nod_ no. 807 five-piece ensemble with carriage robe size 6 months to 1 year _needles_--_1 pair american standard no. 2 and 4. 4 double point, no. 4. (for mitts)._ _material_--_jacket--5 ounces (germantown 4-fold used in complete ensemble). leggins--5 ounces. hood--2 ounces. mitts--1 ounce. shoes--1 ounce. afghan--12 ounces. imported angora--2 balls. zipper._ _gauge_--_6 sts to 1 inch._ jacket _back_--with no. 4 needles, cast on 58 sts. (64 sts, size 1). *p 4 sts, k 2, repeat from *across row, ending with p 4. k next row (right side). repeat these two rows for 6 inches. bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, then k 2 sts tog at beg of the next 6 rows (46 sts). work even for 4 inches (4½, size 1), measuring straight up from where the 3 sts were bound off. bind off 4 sts at beg of the next 6 rows, bind off remaining sts for back of neck. _left front_--cast on 30 sts (32 sts, size 1). *p 4, k 2, repeat from *across row, ending with k 2. k next row. repeat these 2 rows for 6 inches. on the p 2 gore, bind off 4 sts for underarm, then k 2 sts tog at beg of every row at underarm 3 times (7 sts off). work even for 3 inches (3½ size 1). on next row that begins at neck edge, bind off 5 sts, follow pattern across. p 2 sts tog at beg of every row that begins at neck edge until 14 sts remain. bind off 4 sts at beg of the next 3 rows that begin at shoulder and continue to k 2 sts tog at neck edge, until all sts are bound off. _right front_--work right front to correspond having k 4 gores meet for zipper. _sleeves_--cast on 34 sts (38 sts, size 1), p 4, k 2 across row, k back. work in pattern for 2 inches. inc 1 st on each side every inch until sleeve measures 6½ inches from start. bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, then bind off 2 sts at beg of the next 2 rows (5 sts off on each side). now k 2 sts tog at beg and end of every 4th row, until 20 sts remain, bind off. sew up seams at underarm and shoulders. sew sleeves tog, insert sleeves into armholes. _collar_--with wrong side towards you pick up 52 sts. *p 4, k 2, repeat from *across row ending with p 4. k back. work 4 more rows in pattern. on wrong side make an inc in each k 2 gore. work in pattern until collar measures 2 inches, bind off loosely. work 1 row of s c around collar and fronts. sew on zipper. leggins _cuff_--with no. 2 needles, cast on 40 sts (46 sts, size 1), k 1, p 1 for 14 rows. change to no. 4 needles, k 1, p 1 for 3 more rows. k next row, increasing every 6th st across row. p 1 row, k 1 row, increasing every 6th row at beg and end, until you have 62 sts. now inc in every 4th row, until you have 68 sts. inc in every 2nd row until you have 78 sts (86 sts, size 1), or desired length to crotch. work 2 rows even. *on next k row, bind off 2 sts, k to end of row. on next purled row, p 2 sts tog (place marker for back) repeat from *once. work 2 rows even, dec 1 st at beg and end of next 2 k rows. now dec 1 st every 6th row at front edge, 6 times, meanwhile dec every 8th row at back edge, 2 times. work 6 rows even (10 rows, size 1). on next purled row, p 28, turn, slip first st. k to back edge, p 22, k back, p 16. k back, p 10, k back, p 5, k back. p across all sts. change to no. 2 needles, k 1, p 1 for 4 rows. on next row, k 2, *y o, k 2 tog, repeat from *across row. k 1, p 1 for 4 more rows, bind off loosely, k 1, p 1. work other leg to correspond. sew each leg tog up to crotch; sew front and back seams. ch 160 sts, insert thru beading. hood starting at first half of neck edge, cast on 44 sts (48 sts, size 1), work in garter st (k each row), for 4 inches. to start peak at top: *dec 1 st by knitting the 2nd and 3rd sts tog, place marker, this side will be referred to as back. inc in 3rd st at front edge. k 4 rows (2 ribs), repeat from *once (5 inches) from start. now bind off 10 sts at beg of front edge and k 2 tog at beg of next row at back edge. continue to k 2nd and 3rd sts tog at beg of every row at back edge and k 2 tog at beg and end of every row at front edge, until you have 16 sts. continue in same manner at back edge and work even at front, until you have 10 sts. now inc in first st at beg of front edge and bind off 2 sts at beg of every row at back edge, until you have 4 sts, bind off. work another piece in same manner and sew tog. _band at neck_--cast on 4 sts, work in garter st for 20 inches, bind off. sew band to bottom of hood gathering hood to fit snug, leave ends to tie. _pompom_--with a small card board, 1¼ inches in width, wrap yarn around cardboard 36 times, sew at one end, cut at other. make 2 more in same manner, sew 3 pieces together, trim. mitts cast 10 sts on first needle, 10 sts on 2nd needle, 10 sts on 3rd needle, with 4th needle k 1, p 1 for 6 rows. *y o, k 2 tog, repeat from *for 1 round. k 1, p 1 for 6 rows. remainder of mitten is k. inc 1 st on each needle 33 sts. work 2 inches even. (2½ inches, size 1). *k 3, k 2 tog, repeat from *for 1 round. work 4 rows even. *k 2, k 2 tog, repeat from *for 1 round. *work 1 round even. k 1, k 2 tog, repeat from *until 10 sts remain. weave sts tog or bind off, fold and sew. ch 80 sts, tape thru beading of cuff. put ends of ch thru cuff of sweater and tie. shoes cast on 8 sts, k back. k 3, inc in each of the next 2 sts, k 3. k 2 rows. k 4, inc in each of the next 2 sts, k 4. k 2 rows. continue in this manner, until you have 24 sts. k 9, y o, k 2 tog, k 3, y o, k 2 tog, k 8. k 4 rows. k 8, put on st holder, bind off 8, k 8. k back on 8 sts, cast on 4, k back. on next row, *k 7, y o, k 2 tog, k 3. k 3 rows, repeat from *5 times, put on st holder. work other side to correspond. pick up 60 sts. *p back. k next row and dec 1 st at beg and end and 3 sts in center, spaced at equal distances apart, repeat from *2 times. weave these sts tog or bind off and sew. weave back sts tog or bind off and sew. ch 80 sts, tape thru beading. carriage robe 24 inches width. 32 inches length. _gauge_--_5 sts to 1 inch._ _pattern_--_multiple of 11, plus 10 sts._ with no. 5 needles, cast on 142 sts, *k 10, sl 1 st, repeat from *across row, end row with k 10. next row, p back, purling the sl st. repeat these 2 rows for 32 inches. with angora or contrasting shade of yarn, embroider as follows: insert needle from wrong side to right side, on left side at the sl st. *skip 1 sl st, insert needle from right to left, thru next sl st, repeat from *to length of robe. do not break thread, insert needle from right to left working from bottom to top (making an x). work 3 rows of s c around robe, working 3 sts in corners. [illustration: no. 807 five piece ensemble, with carriage robe for a tiny baby. what a pleasure you will have in fondling the well dressed baby who has the foresight to have in his wardrobe this five piece suit, consisting of leggings, cap, jacket, mittens and shoes. the jacket has a convenient zipper front. to finish, you may trim with angora or a contrasting shade of yarn may be used.] _a sailor's sweetheart_ no. 808 crocheted jacket size 4 to 6 years _1 bone crochet hook, size 3._ _material_--_cashmere sports, 4 two ounce balls. one-half ounce ball white and red. 6 gold buttons._ _back_--ch 68 (to measure about 12 inches). (72 chs, size 6). work 1 s c in 2nd ch from hook, s c in each ch. ch 1, turn, work 12 rows of s c. on 13th row, inc in every 7th st across row (76 s c). next row, ch 2, turn, insert hook in 2nd ch from hook, draw yarn thru, insert needle in first s c, wrap, draw thru 2 loops, wrap thru 2 more (same as d c). *insert needle in large loop of st, draw thru, insert needle in next s c, complete same as d c, repeat from *across row (right side). ch 1, turn, s c in each st across row. repeat these 2 rows for 8 inches. on next s c row, s c to within last 3 sts, ch 2, turn, follow pattern across row to within last 3 sts. ch 1, turn, s c across row; do not s c in last 2 sts, ch 2, follow pattern across row, do not work in last 2 sts. follow pattern across for the next 6 rows and do not work in last st of each row (8 sts off on each side). work in pattern for 5½ inches, or desired length to shoulder. on next s c row, *s c to within last 6 sts, ch 1, turn, s c to within last 6 sts at other end, (remainder of back is worked in s c rows), repeat from *2 more times, break thread. [illustration: no. 808 this young lady is wearing one of the most colorful of jackets. crocheted in royal blue, with a white sailor collar that has a touch of red--so three cheers for the red, white and blue. an added bit of glamour is the gold buttons down the front. ship ahoy!] _left front_--ch 34, (36 chs, size 6) work 1 s c in 2nd ch from hook, work 1 s c in each ch across row. ch 1, turn, work 12 rows of s c. on 13th row, inc in every 7th st across row. work same as back to underarm. on next s c row, work to within last 3 sts of underarm. ch 2, follow pattern across row. on next row, s c to within last 2 sts, *ch 2. follow pattern across row, on next row, s c to within last st, repeat from *3 times. (9 sts off at underarm). when piece measures about 1½ inches from underarm work pocket as follows: work over 6 sts from underarm side. pocket: with another strand of yarn, ch 17 sts loosely, work in pattern for 2 inches, break thread, insert pocket. continue pattern on pocket for 16 sts and skip 16 on sweater; continue across front. follow pattern until front measures 10½ inches from bottom at front edge, dec 2 sts at front edge (by not working in last s c and the turning cr). work even at armhole edge, and do not work in last st of every row at neck edge, until you have 20 sts. when piece measures same as back to shoulder, s c to within last 6 sts at shoulder edge, 2 times (same as back), and continue to dec at neck 2 more times. work right front to correspond, omitting pocket. _sleeves_--ch 41 sts (to measure about 6 inches), (45 chs, size 6). work 1 s c in 2nd ch from hook, s c in each ch to end of row. ch 1, turn, work 10 rows of s c. on 11th row inc 4 sts across row at equal distances apart. work in pattern same as for back for 1 inch. on next row, inc 1 st on each side. continue to inc 1 st on each side every inch until you have 60 sts across row. work even until sleeve measures 10 inches from bottom of cuff or desired length to underarm. *on next row work to within 3 sts at end of row, repeat from *once. on next row work to within 2 sts at end of row, repeat from *once (50 sts). now work to within 1 st of each row until you have 28 sts left. sew shoulder scams and sides. sew sleeves and insert into armholes making a small inverted pleat at top. starting at right front, work 1 row of s c completely around fronts and neck. work 3 more rows of s c on left front, break thread. work 1 row of s c on right front making ch 3 loops for buttonholes about 2 inches apart. work 2 more rows of s c over chains. work 2 rows of s c of red on pocket, 2 rows of white, sew ends. _collar_--ch 49 sts, work 1 s c in 2nd ch from hook, s c in each ch across row. work in pattern for 3 inches. work over 12 sts. dec 1 st (by not working in last st) at end of every s c row on outer edge of collar until you have 2 sts. work other side of collar to correspond. work 1 row of s c around outside edge of collar, increasing 2 sts in each corner. work 2 rows of blue, 2 rows of red. sew to jacket. _tyrol_ no. 809 knitted jacket and hat size 8 to 10 years _needles_--_american standard no. 11._ _material_--_knitting worsted, 3½ four ounce skeins, for both jacket and hat. seven wooden buttons._ _scale_--_4 sts to 1 inch._ jacket _back_--with no. 11 needles and 2 strands of yarn cast on 42 sts (size 10, 46 sts), *k 2, p 2 across row. next row, p 2, k 2, repeat from *for 9½ inches. bind off 2 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, then k 2 tog at beg of the next 4 rows, 34 sts remaining. work even for 5½ inches (6 inches, size 10). bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 6 rows, bind off remaining 16 sts for back of neck. _left front_--cast on 26 sts (size 10, 28 sts) *k 2, p 2 across row to within last 4 sts, k last 4 sts (border). next row, k 4, p 2, k 2 across row, ending with p 2. repeat from *until piece measures 3 inches. *next row, on right side, k 2, p 2, k 2, p 2, k 6, p 2, k 2, p 2, k 2, k 4. next row, k 4, p 2, k 2, p 2, k 2, p 6, k 2, p 2, k 2, p 2. repeat from *until piece measures 9½ inches. bind off 2 sts at beg of next row at underarm, then k 2 tog at beg of next 2 rows at underarm (22 sts). work even for 4 inches, (4½ inches, size 10). now bind off 4 sts at border edge and dec 1 st at beg of every row at neck edge, until 12 sts remain. bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 3 rows at shoulder and continue to dec at neck edge, 3 more times. _right front_--cast on 26 sts. k 4, *k 2, p 2, repeat from *across row. next row, p 2, k 2 to within last 4 sts. k last 4 sts. repeat these 2 rows for 1 inch. then work buttonhole as follows: p 2, k 2 across row to within 4 sts, bind off 2, k 2. next row, k 2, cast on 2 sts over those bound off, continue pattern across row. continue same as left front working buttonholes every 2 inches. _sleeves_--cast on 24 sts, k 2, p 2, ribbing for 2 inches. inc 1 st on each side and inc 1 st on each side every 2 inches, until sleeve measures 12 inches (34 sts). bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, then k 2 tog at beg of the next 2 rows (26 sts). k 2 tog at beg and end of every 4th row, until you have 16 sts, bind off. sew shoulder seams. _band at neck_--pick up 46 sts and k 2, p 2, across row. *on next row, dec 1 st at beg and end of every row, repeat from *until you have 32 sts, bind off. sew seams at underarm and sleeves, insert sleeves into armholes, gathering a little at top of sleeve. embroider heart in center of panel with rust. the center 2 flowers with brown (yellow centers). top and bottom flowers with orange (brown centers). work stems with green. sew on buttons. [illustration: no. 809 an authentic style note emphasized by the embroidery in gay colors down the panels in the front, which may be easily applied. there is a hat to match. we used beige complemented with contrasting colors.] hat with no. 11 needles, 2 strands of yarn, cast on 64 sts. k 2, p 2 for 2 inches. next row, k 2 tog (p 2, k 2) for 30 sts, (continue with half of hat) turn, *k 2 tog at beg and end of every row at center back and k 2 tog at beg of every 4th row at front edge until you have 16 sts left. bind off 4 sts at beg of every row at back edge until all sts are bound off. work other side to correspond. sew up back of cap. s c around entire cap. with contrasting yarn (2 strands) chain 24 inches, break thread, tape thru front. make 2 small pompoms. make pompom of 3 different shades, sew tog, trim. sew on ends of cord, tie in 1 knot. embroider as shown on illustration. _goldilocks_ no. 810 little princess and her dolly size 4-6 years _needles_--_1 circular needle, no. 3. 1 pair american standard no. 1._ _material_--_kashmir sports yarn; 8 ounces, size 4; 10 ounces, size 6. 22-inch zipper._ _gauge_--_7½ sts to 1 inch._ dress starting at bottom, with no. 3 circular needle, cast on 375 sts, size 4 (427 sts, size 6), do not join. k in garter st for 9 rows, 5 ribs. _size 4_--work as follows: p 31, *k 3, p 59, repeat from *4 times, k 3, p 31. k back. repeat these 2 rows for 1 inch. first dec: k 13, k 2 tog, k 12, k 2 tog, k 7, *k 2 tog, k 16, k 2 tog, k 15, k 2 tog, k 16, k 2 tog, k 7, repeat from *4 times, dec last panel same as first panel. *work 1 inch even. make another dec in same manner having decreases come directly above previous decreases. (24 sts less after each decreased row). repeat from *until you have 159 sts. work even until piece measures 12 inches or desired length to waist line. _size 6_--k 9 rows for border same as size 4. p 37, *k 3, p 67, repeat from *4 times, k 3, p 37. k back, repeat these 2 rows for 1 inch. first dec: k 16, k 2 tog, k 15, k 2 tog, k 7, *k 2 tog, k 18, k 2 tog, k 19, k 2 tog, k 18, k 2 tog, k 7, repeat from *4 times, dec last panel same as first panel. work 1 inch even. make another dec in same manner every inch, until you have 163 sts. work even until piece measures 14 inches or desired length to waist line. *k 16 (size 6, k 18) (including 3 k sts), with no. 1 needles, k 1, p 1, for 49 sts, continue with circular 3 needle, k 29 (back gore), with no. 1 needles, k 1, p 1, for 49 sts. continue with no. 3 circular needle, k 16 (size 6, k 18). p back following pattern, repeat from *for 1½ inches. on right side of work continue on no. 3 circular needle same as before without ribbing for 2¾ inches. (3¼ inches, size 6). size 4 and 6--from now on continue fronts and back for size 6 same as size 4 only you will have 1 more st on each front and 2 more sts in back. k 37 to underarm, put on st holder. bind off 7. k 71 sts for back, put other front on st holder, p 2 sts tog at beg of the next 4 rows (67 sts). work even following pattern for 4½ inches (5 inches size 6). bind off 5 sts at beg of the next 8 rows, bind off remaining 27 sts for back of neck. continue on left front, bind off 7 sts for underarm, following pattern, k 2 tog at underarm 3 more times (34 sts) work even for 1 inch more (1½ inches, size 6). on wrong side, p 13, k 15 (border for top of pocket), p 6 across. k back, repeat these 2 rows for 4 more rows. on next row, p 13, bind off 15 sts for pocket edge, p across. with separate yarn, cast on 15 sts, k 1 row, p 1 row for 2½ inches, put on st holder. k 6 sts, k the 15 sts from st holder for pocket, k across. p 1 row, k 1 row for 1 inch. now p 2 tog at beg of every row at neck edge until 23 sts remain. bind off 5 sts at beg of the next 4 rows at shoulder and continue to p 2 tog at neck edge, until all sts are bound off. work right front to correspond. _sleeves_--with no. 1 needles, cast on 48 sts (size 6, 52 sts), k 1, p 1, for ¾ inch. change to no. 3 needles, k 1 row, next row, p 16, k 3, p 10, k 3, p 16. k back. k these last 2 rows and inc 1 st at each end every 4th row, until sleeve measures 2 inches from beginning, 54 sts. now inc 2 sts in center gore as follows: *k to first gore and k 4 sts after gore, inc 1 st, k to within 5 sts of 2nd gore, inc 1 st, k across. continue to inc at seam ends every 4th row and 2 sts between gores every 6th row, repeat from *until piece measures 3 inches, 62 sts. bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, then k 2 tog at beg and end of next k row, now k 2 tog at beg and end of every 4th row (continue to inc 2 sts between gores every 6th row) until you have 50 sts. now k 2 tog at beg and end of every k row (do not inc in center gores), until you have 44 sts. now k 1, p 1 ribbing between gores and continue to k 2 tog at beg and end of every k row, until ribbing measures ¾ inch, bind off. [illustration: no. 810 fit for a princess too!--though she doesn't have to be of royal lineage. any charming young lady can wear this type of knitted dress and feel--well--_like a princess_. the dress has a zipper closure and a modish flared skirt--and a sailor collar. the princess is holding a doll--wearing a duplicate of her dress.] _collar_--with white, cast on 56 sts, k 4 rows, 3 ribs. k 1 row, p 1 row, always knitting first and last 3 sts on purled rows (border). continue these 2 rows for 4 inches. k 16, bind off 24 sts, k 16. work 3 rows even on last 16 sts, keeping k 3 border on outer edge. now dec 1 st every 4th row on neck edge and dec 1 st on outer edge (by knitting 4th and 5th st tog) every 8th row, until you have 2 sts, bind off. with red and royal blue, embroider 2 rows around collar as illustrated. sew shoulder seams. sew up sleeve seams, sew into armhole having fullness at top of sleeve. sew pockets on inside of dress (do not stitch thru on right side). sew on collar. insert zipper. _instructions for the knitted doll dress and beret for style no. 810 as shown in illustration, will be found in "mary's dollies, a doll booklet," vol. 5._ _boy blue_ no. 811 four-piece boy's ensemble size 3 to 5 years _needles_--_1 pair american standard no. 3._ _material_--_6 two ounce balls kashmir sports for complete outfit. separate pieces require the following: slip-over--2 two ounce balls. jacket--3 two ounce balls. pants--1½ ounces. beret-½ ounce. zipper--12 inch separating._ _gauge_--_7½ sts to 1 inch._ jacket _back_--cast on 83 sts (86 sts, size 5). row 1--*p 3, k 2, repeat from *across row, ending with p 3. row 2--k back (right side). repeat these 2 rows for 2 inches, k 1, p 1 for 18 sts, following pattern across row to within last 18 sts, k 1, p 1 for 18 sts. k 1, p 1 ribbing for 18 sts on each side for 1 inch. now work in pattern, until piece measures 8 inches from start. bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows for underarm. then k 2 tog at beg of the next 4 rows at underarm (73 sts). work even until armhole measures 4 inches, from where the 3 sts were bound off. bind off 6 sts at beg of the next 8 rows, bind off remaining 25 sts for back of neck. [illustration: no. 811 consists of pants, slip-over, jacket and beret. the ideal thing for cool summer nights or early fall. you will notice, particularly, the jacket, which has side ties and slanted pockets just like dad's--and a zipper closure in the front to make putting on or taking off a delight and a definite accomplishment for a _very young man_. we used _king's blue_. note the _white anchor_ on the slip-over.] _left front_--cast on 43 sts (45 sts, size 5). k 3 (border), *p 3, k 2 repeat from *across row, ending with k 2. k next row. repeat these 2 rows for 2 inches. on next row at seam end, k 1, p 1, for 18 sts, follow pattern across row. continue pattern with k 1, p 1 ribbing for 18 sts at seam end for 1 inch. continue same as for back to underarm. bind off 4 sts at beg of next row at underarm, then k 2 sts tog at beg of every row at underarm, 4 times, 35 sts. work even for 3 inches, measuring straight up from where the 4 sts were bound off. bind off 4 sts at beg of next row at neck edge, then k 2 sts tog at beg of every row at neck edge, until 27 sts remain. bind off 6 sts at beg of shoulder edge, 4 times and continue knitting 2 sts at neck edge until all sts are bound off. work right front to correspond. _sleeves_--cast on 40 sts (43 sts, size 5). *work in pattern for ¾ inch, inc 1 st at both ends, repeat from *until sleeve measures 8 inches (60 sts) or desired length to underarm. bind off 2 sts at beg of the next 4 rows (52 sts), then k 2 sts tog at beg and end of every 4th row, until 38 sts remain. now k 2 tog at beg and end of every row until 34 sts remain, bind off. sew fronts and back together and sew up sleeve and insert into armholes having seams meet at underarm. sew shoulder seams. _collar_--skip 3 sts (border), on each side, with wrong side toward you, pick up 54 sts, p 1 row, k 1 row, knitting first and last 3 sts on purled rows, for ½ inch. inc 1 st in every 6th st across. work ½ inch even. inc in every 7th st across. work ½ inch even. inc in every 8th st across. work ½ inch even. work ½ inch in garter st, bind off loosely on wrong side of collar. _tabs on sides_--cast on 10 sts, k 1, p 1, for 4½ inches. k 2 tog at beg and end of every row, until you have 2 sts, draw thru. work 3 more pieces in same manner. _pockets_--cast on 17 sts, *k 2, p 3, repeat from *across row, k back. work pattern for 1 inch. k 1 row, p 1 row for 1½ inches. k 2 tog at beg and end of every row, until 8 sts remain, bind off. work 1 row of s c around edge. sew on pockets as shown on illustration. sew on tabs at k 1, p 1 border, tie in knots. sew in zipper. slip-on _back_--cast on 83 sts, (86 sts, size 5). row 1--*p 3, k 2, repeat from *across row, ending with p 3. row 2--k back (right side), repeat these 2 rows for 2 inches. k 1 row, p 1 row, for 7 inches, from start. bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, for underarm, then k 2 sts tog at beg of the next 6 rows at underarm (71 sts). work even until armhole measures 4 inches, measuring straight up from where the 3 sts were bound off. k 19, bind off 33 k 19. bind off 4 sts at beg of the next 4 rows at shoulder edge and k 2 tog at neck edge, until all sts are bound off. work other shoulder to correspond. _front_--work same as back until piece measures 2½ inches above underarm, k 28 sts, bind off center 15, k 28, p back on 28 sts, k 2 sts tog at beg of every row at neck edge, until 19 sts remain. bind off 4 sts at beg of the next 4 rows that beg at shoulder and continue to k 2 tog at neck edge, until all sts are bound off. work other side to correspond. _front band at neck_--on right side, pick up 63 sts, p 3, k 2 across, ending with p 3, k back. repeat these 2 rows for ¾ inch. _back band at neck_--pick up 43 sts. work same as front. sew shoulder seams and pick up 56 sts for sleeves, starting after 6 bound off sts to within 6 bound off sts at end of armhole. pick up 2 sts at beg of every row, until you have 68 sts. *work 3 rows even. on next k row, dec 1 st at each end, repeat from *until sleeve measures 3 inches, 56 sts. dec 6 sts across row. now work in pattern for ¾ inch, bind off. sew up seams at underarm and sleeves. embroider anchor as shown on illustration. pants with no. 3 needles, cast on 84 sts (88 sts, size 5), k 1, p 1 ribbing for 6 rows. next row, k 1, *y o, k 2 tog, repeat from *across row. continue ribbing for 6 more rows. now shape back as follows: k 4, turn, (slip the first st when purling back), p back, k 8, turn, p back, k 12, turn, p back. continue in this manner, working 4 more sts every k row until there are 44 sts, then p back and on 84 sts, k 1 row, turn, p 40, k 4, p 40, repeat these 2 rows for 2½ inches (3 inches, size 4). now inc 1 st at each end every 6th row, 5 times, then every 4th row 2 times, continuing to k center 4 sts to hem. (98 sts). dec 1 st at each end every other row 7 times. work even for 1 inch. p 1 row on k side. p 1 row, k 1 row for 6 rows, bind off loosely. make other leg to correspond, starting shaping of back on opposite side as follows: p 4, turn, k back. p 8, turn, k back and continue in this manner until there are 44 sts, then k back and continue same as other leg. sew up seams and turn back hem. press creases back and front. beret with no. 3 needles, cast on 8 sts, p back. row 2--inc in each st (16 sts), p back. row 4--*inc 1 st, k 1 st, repeat from *across row (24 sts). p back. row 6--*inc 1 st, k 2 sts, repeat from *across row. continue in this manner having 1 more st between each increase, until you have 19 sts between each increase. k 1 row, p 1 row without increasing, for 6 rows. now dec in same manner as you increased. *k 2 sts tog, k 18, k 2 tog, repeat from *across row, p back. dec in this manner having 1 st less between each dec for 6 more k rows. k 1 row on purled side (hem), then k 1 row, p 1 row for ½ inch, bind off loosely. turn back ½ inch hem and sew. block flat. _majorette_ no. 812 knitted jacket and hat 6-8 years _1 pair bone needles, american standard no. 5._ _material_--_knitting worsted, 10 ounces, royal blue. sports yarn, 1 ounce, gold. 6 buttons._ _gauge_--_5½ sts to 1 inch._ jacket _back_--cast on 66 sts (70 sts, size 8), k 3 rows. now p 1 row, k 1 row, for 6 rows, k 4 rows (2 ribs), (this completes border) p 1 row, k 1 row for 9 inches (10 inches, size 8) measuring from bottom. bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, k 2 sts tog at beg of the next 4 rows (5 sts off on each side). work even for 5½ inches (6 inches, size 8), measuring straight up from where the 3 sts were bound off. bind off 6 sts at beg of the next 6 rows, place center 20 sts on st holder. _left front_--cast on 38 sts, k 3 rows. *k 2, p 4, k 2 (border), p across. k next row, repeat these 2 rows for 9 inches, working border on bottom same as for back. bind off, 3 sts at beg of the next row that begins at underarm, then k 2 sts tog at beg of every row at underarm until you have 7 sts off. work even until armhole measures 3 inches. k 8 sts (border), place on st holder, then k 2 sts tog at beg of every row at neck edge until 18 sts remain. bind off 6 sts at beginning of shoulder 3 times, work even at neck edge. _right front_--work to correspond, working first buttonhole 1 inch from bottom as follows: work 3 sts, bind off 3, follow pattern across. cast on 3 sts over those bound off on previous row. work buttonholes every 2 inches after first buttonhole (5 buttonholes). [illustration: no. 812 this season, more than in many recent seasons, the military motif is getting quite a play. the classical "_blue and gold_" is carried out to singular effect with this jacket of blue trimmed with gold buttons and--no less--epaulettes on the shoulders, the fringe of which is 2 ply sports yarn. the hat repeats the color theme of the jacket with striking effect.] _sleeves_--cast on 38 sts, k 3 rows, p 1 row, k 1 row for 6 rows, k 4 rows. p 1 row, k 1 row for 2 inches, *inc 1 st at each end, work 1 inch even, repeat from *until piece measures 12 inches from bottom (58 sts). work 1 inch even. bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, then bind off 2 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, (48 sts). now k 2 sts tog at beg and end of every 4th row, until 32 sts remain. now k 2 tog at beg and end of every row until 26 sts remain, bind off. _epaulets_--epaulets are k in garter st. cast on 14 sts, k 1 row. now inc 1 st at beg of every row, until you have 18 sts. work even for 3 inches. bind off 9 sts, k 9. k back on 9 sts and k 2 tog at beg of every row that begins in center of piece, bind off last 2 sts. sew shoulder seams. _band at neck_--place epaulets at center of shoulder seam with the points overlapping back and the bound off sts over fronts. pick up 8 sts from st holder at front, pick up sts around neck, picking up epaulets with neck sts, k off back. continue other side and front in same manner (68 sts), k 1 row. work buttonholes as follows: k 3, bind off 3, k across. on next k row, cast on 3 sts over those bound off. k 1 row, p 1 row for 4 rows always k first and last 2 sts on purled rows for edge. k 3 rows, bind off loosely on wrong side. sew back to fronts and sew up sleeve seams, insert sleeves into armholes, having fullness at top. stitch end of epaulets at shoulder. sew on buttons. _fringe_--with two ply gold yarn, cut fringe 4 inches in length. with two strands, tape thru each stitch around epaulets as shown on illustration, trim. hat with no. 5 needles, cast on 8 sts, p back. row 2--inc in each st (16 sts). p back. row 4--*inc 1 st, k 1 st, repeat from *across row (24 sts), p back. row 6--*inc 1 st, k 2 sts, repeat from *across row. continue in this manner having 1 more st between each inc, until you have 11 sts between each inc (104 sts). now k each row back and forth until piece measures 3 inches, from k rows. bind off loosely on wrong side. wrap contrasting shade of light weight yarn one yard long, 15 times, cut at both ends. with main color, wrap 8 times, cut at both ends. twist each of these ends as tightly as possible. now twist the two pieces together. make a large knot, leaving ends for tassel, cut evenly. _swiss shalet_ no. 813 crocheted coat and hat in "morning glory blue" 8 to 10 years _1 afghan hook, size 4 or 5, 14 inch._ _material_--_knitting worsted. coat--5 four ounce skeins. hat-2 ounces. 6 buttons._ _gauge_--_5 sts to 1 inch. 4 rows 1 inch._ coat _back_--chain 102 sts (to measure 23 inches) for bottom of coat, (108 sts, size 10). row 1--skip 1 ch, *draw up a loop in next ch; repeat from *across foundation ch (102 loops on hook). wrap, draw thru 1 loop, *wrap, draw thru 2 loops; repeat from *across row. this completes first row. row 2--*bring yarn to front of work, insert hook under vertical loop, hold yarn with left thumb on right side of work, draw up a loop; repeat from *across row (102 loops). always wrap and take off the loops same as first row to complete row. repeat row 2 for border until border measures 1 inch. remainder of back is worked in plain afghan st. row 1--insert needle in 2nd vertical loop, draw up all vertical loops across row. row 2--wrap, draw thru 1 loop, *wrap, draw thru 2 loops; repeat from *across row. repeat these 2 rows for 2 inches. make first dec as follows: draw 1 loop thru first 2 vertical loops (a dec). draw up 30 loops, make another dec in same manner, draw up 33 loops, make a dec, draw up 30 loops, dec last 2 loops. (98 loops). *work 1 inch even. dec 4 more loops in same manner having decreases come directly above those on previous decreases. repeat from *8 more times (62 sts, 12 inches). work 4 inches even (5 inches, size 10). now inc 1 st at beg and end of next row as follows: *y o hook (inc) work across row to within last loop, y o hook (inc) pick up last st. work 1 inch even, repeat from *2 more times. work 1 inch even (20 inches, 68 sts), or desired length to underarm. sl st over 4 loops for underarm. work across row to within 4 loops. now dec 1 st at beg and end of each row, 3 times (54 sts). work even until armhole measures 6 inches measuring straight up from 4 slip sts. *sl st over 4 sts, work across row to within 4 loops, repeat from *3 more times. sl st remaining 22 sts for back of neck. [illustration: no. 813 a practical coat crocheted in an afghan stitch that will survive many seasons of wear. the peter pan collar preserves that "little girl" look, while the wooden buttons impart a note of sweet sophistication.] _front_--chain 50 sts to measure 11 inches (53 sts, size 10). work 1 inch of border same as back. work in plain afghan st for 2 inches. on next row make a dec as follows: make a dec, draw up 24 loops, make another dec, draw up 21 loops. work 1 inch even. dec 2 sts every inch 9 more times (30 sts, 12 inches). work 4 inches even. now inc 1 st at seam end every inch, 3 times. work 2 inches even, or desired length to underarm. sl st over 4 loops, work across row, work back. dec same as for back until you have 9 sts off altogether. work 4 inches even from armhole. pick up 10 loops make a dec (pick up 2 loops tog), pick up 12 loops, work back. work 3 rows even, pick up 9 loops, make a dec, pick up 9 loops, skip last loop for neck edge. continue to skip last st at neck edge every row, until 19 loops remain. slip over 4 sts at beg of the next 4 rows for shoulder, and continue to slip last st at neck edge, slip st over last 4 sts. work other side to correspond. _sleeves_--ch 34 sts, to measure 6½ inches (38 sts, size 10). work border for 1 inch. work in plain afghan st for 2 inches. inc 1 st at each end every inch until sleeve measures 11 inches, 52 sts. work 1 inch even or desired length to underarm. sl st over 3 loops, work across row to within 3 loops, work back. sl st over 2 loops, work across row to within 2 loops, work back. *work 1 row even. sl st over 1 loop, work row to within 1 loop, work back, repeat from *until 22 loops remain, bind off. _bands at front--_starting at neck edge on left front (work border same as border on bottom), *pick up 10 sts (1 st in each row) now inc 1 st by picking up 1 st between next row, repeat from *for (112 sts) or complete length of coat, for 5 rows. on right front starting at bottom, work 2 rows even make buttonholes on next row as follows: pick up 56 loops, *sl st over 2 loops, pick up 8 loops, repeat from *to end of row. work back chaining 2 sts over those bound off. work 2 more rows. sl sts off on 5th row. _collar_--ch 49, work in afghan st always working first and last 3 sts in border st same as bottom of coat. on next row, pick up 3 loops *inc, pick up 7 loops, repeat from *5 more times, inc, pick up last 3 loops. continue to inc inside of borders every row and above previous increases every other row, thruout collar, until you have 10 rows. work 3 rows even in border st, bind off on 3rd row. s c up front of collar. sew up seams at underarm and sleeve seams. sew shoulder seams and insert sleeves into armholes making 2 small pleats on top of sleeve. sew on collar starting after border and ending before border. sew on buttons. hat _piece at back_--ch 26 sts. row 1--skip 1 ch, *draw up a loop in next ch; repeat from *across foundation ch (26 loops on hook). wrap, draw thru 1 loop, *wrap, draw thru 2 loops; repeat from *across row. this completes first row. work 2 more rows in same manner. row 4--make a dec as follows: draw 1 loop thru first 2 vertical loops (a dec) draw up each loop across row, dec last 2 loops. repeat these 4 rows 5 more times (14 loops on needle). work 4 more rows, decreasing 1 st at beg and end of every row. *pick up 1 loop, sl st, repeat from *until all loops are off. break thread, ch 10, draw up a loop in each ch (10 loops on hook). complete row. work 2 more rows. row 4--inc 1 st at beg of next row as follows: y o hook (an inc); pick up each loop across row to within last loop, wrap (an inc), pick up last loop. repeat these 4 rows, until you have 26 loops. work even on 26 loops until piece measures 12 inches. now dec 1 loop on each end. continue to dec 1 loop on each end every 4th row, until you have 10 loops. work 3 rows even. sew these ends tog. fold back piece in half, mark the center of wide end. fold long piece in half, mark center. have markers meet and sew tog. tack grosgrain ribbon around to fit headsize and make small tailored bow with 2 inch streamers. _colleen_ no. 814 jerkin, socks and beanie in red sports yarn size 12 _needles_--_1 pair american standard no. 4._ _material_--_kashmir sports--4 two ounce balls. beanie--one ounce. 7 buttons._ _gauge_--_7 sts to 1 inch._ jerkin _back_--starting at bottom, cast on 104 sts, *k 2, p 4, repeat from *across, ending row with k 2. next row, right side, k back. *repeat these 2 rows for 1 inch. dec 1 st at each end, repeat from *5 times, 6 inches (92 sts). work 2 inches even. *inc 1 st at each end, work 1 inch even, repeat from *for 5 times, 13 inches, 104 sts. work ½ inch even. bind off 7 sts at beg of the next 2 rows for underarm (90 sts). k 2 sts tog at beg of the next 12 rows (78 sts). work even until armhole measures 8 inches, measuring straight up from where the 7 sts were bound off. on next k row, k 13 sts, k 1, p 1 ribbing to within last 13 sts. bind off 5 sts at beg of the next 8 rows, continue to follow k 1, p 1 sts for back of neck, bind off remaining 38 sts. _front_--work same as for back until piece measures 5 inches (having decreases and increases same on sides as back). on next row on right side, k 3, k 1, p 1 for 30 sts (border for pocket), k 28, p 1, k 1, for 30 sts (border for pocket), k 3. follow pattern across row and, k 1, p 1, for pocket borders, for 1 inch. on next row, follow pattern to pocket borders, bind off k 1, p 1 borders, loosely in k 1, p 1. _pockets_--cast on 30 sts. k 2, p 4 across row, ending p 4. k back. continue pattern for 5 inches, put sts on st holder. make another pocket with k 2 border, on opposite edge. put on st holder also. on wrong side, follow pattern for 2 sts, insert 30 sts for pocket (following pattern), continue across row, inserting 2nd pocket. continue same as for back, until piece measures 3 inches above armhole. now work in pattern on first 13 sts for 5 inches, bind off 5 sts at armhole edge, 2 times, then bind off 3 remaining sts. work last 13 sts in same manner. _band at neck_--holding right side of work toward you, pick up 55 sts along left side of neck, k across 52 sts (center front), pick up 55 sts along right side. k 1, p 1, decreasing 2 sts at each corner, every row (always have decreases over previous decreases). on 4th row, inc 1 st at beg and end of row. when border measures 1 inch, bind off in k 1, p 1. sew shoulder seams. pick up 116 sts around armholes, k 1, p 1 for 1 inch, bind off k 1, p 1. sew up right side seams. on left front, pick up 122 sts, k 1, p 1 for 3 rows. on next row, k 8, *bind off 4 sts for buttonhole, k 13, repeat from *5 times, bind off 4 for buttonhole, k 8. on next row, cast on 4 sts over those bound off. work 4 more rows, bind off k 1, p 1 loosely. work left back to correspond omitting buttonholes. work 1 row of s c around bottom or turn under ½ inch. sew pockets; do not have sts showing on right side. sew on buttons. beanie with no. 4 needles, cast on 8 sts, p back. row 2--inc in each st (16 sts), p back. row 4--*inc 1 st, k 1 st, repeat from *across row (24 sts). p back. row 6--*inc 1 st, k 2 sts, repeat from *across row. continue in this manner, having 1 more st between each increase, until you have 18 sts between each increase. k 1 row, p 1 row without increasing, for 6 rows. now decrease in same manner as you increased. *k 2 sts tog, k 18, k 2 tog, repeat from *across row, p back. decrease in this manner having 1 st less between each decrease for 5 more k rows. k 1 row on purled side (hem), then k 1 row, p 1 row for ½ inch, bind off loosely. turn back ½ inch hem and sew. socks--no. 814 _needles_--_1 set no. 12 steel._ _material_--_kashmir sports--4 ounces._ _gauge_--_9 sts to 1 inch. size 9._ cast on 84 sts (30-30-24), k 1, p 1 for 1½ inches. k in pattern (k 4, p 2 for 1 rnd. k next rnd), until work measures 6½ inches from beg. k first 2 sts of first needle on 3rd needle. dec 1 st at beg of first needle and 1 st at end of 3rd needle. continue decreasing in this manner every ½ inch, 8 more times (66 sts). k even until work measures 11½ inches from beg or desired length. _heel_--k 15, slip last 15 sts of rnd on same needle (30 sts). divide remaining sts evenly on 2 needles for instep. work 2½ inches in stockinette st (k) on 30 heel sts, knitting the first and last st of every row, end with purled row. _to shape heel_--k 19, sl 1 st, k 1, p.s.s.o., turn, p 9, p 2 tog, turn. *k 9, sl 1 st, k 1, p.s.s.o., turn, p 9, p 2 tog, turn. repeat from *until all sts are worked. k back 5 sts, this completes heel. slip all instep sts on 1 needle. with another needle, k remaining 5 heel sts and pick up 16 sts along side of heel. with another needle, pick up 16 sts along other side of heel and k 5 remaining heel sts. work 1 rnd even, keeping instep sts in pattern. _instep_--first needle: k to last 3 sts. k 2 tog, k 1. 2nd needle, work in pattern. 3rd needle, k 1, p 2 tog thru back of sts. k to end of needle. k 3 rnds even. continue to dec in this manner every 4th rnd 3 more times (17 sts remaining on each of the first and 3rd needles). continue to work even until foot measures 5½ inches from where sts were picked up at heel. _to shape toe_--first rnd: (k 8, k 2 tog) 7 times. k 2 rnds even. 4th rnd: (k 7, k 2 tog) 7 times; continue decreasing 7 sts every 3rd rnd in above manner, until there are 14 sts remaining, break thread, draw thru remaining sts, fasten securely. weave elastic thread into wrong side of cuff with a tapestry needle. [illustration: no. 814 a neat combination that can be worn for either sports or school. the jerkin has a square neckline that is different and the stitch of the jerkin is repeated in the socks. notice the buttons on the sides of the jerkin. _detailed illustration of socks on page 27._ _directions on opposite page._] _spiral socks and slip-over_ no. 815 size 10 _needles_--_1 pair american standard no. 2 and no. 3._ _material_--_kashmir sports--4 two ounce balls._ _gauge_--_7½ sts to 1 inch--waist 24 inches--chest 26 inches._ slip-over _back_--with no. 2 needles, cast on 84 sts, k 2, p 2 ribbing for 3 inches. change to no. 3 needles. row 1--k 1 (k 4, p 4, 5 times), k 2 (p 4, k 4, 5 times), p 1. _row 2_--k 1 (p 4, k 4, 5 times), p 2, (k 4, p 4, 5 times), k 1. _row 3_--same as row 1. _row 4_--same as row 2. _row 5_--(k 4, p 4, 5 times), k 4 (p 4, k 4, 5 times). _row 6_--(p 4, k 4, 5 times), p 4 (k 4, p 4, 5 times). _row 7_--same as row 5. _row 8_--same as row 6. _row 9_--k 3, p 4 (k 4, p 4, 4 times), k 6 (p 4, k 4, 4 times), p 4, k 3. _row 10_--p 3, k 4 (p 4, k 4, 4 times), p 6 (k 4, p 4, 4 times), k 4, p 3. _row 11_--same as row 9; increasing in first and last st. _row 12_--(p 4, k 4, 5 times), p 6 (k 4, p 4, 5 times). _row 13_--k 3, p 4 (k 4, p 4, 4 times), k 8, (p 4, k 4, 4 times), p 4, k 3. _row 14_--p 3, k 4 (p 4, k 4, 4 times), p 8, (k 4, p 4, 4 times), k 4, p 3. _row 15_--same as row 13. _row 16_--same as row 14. _row 17_--k 2, p 4 (k 4, p 4, 4 times), k 10 (p 4, k 4, 4 times), p 4, k 2. _row 18_--p 2, k 4 (p 4, k 4, 4 times), p 10 (k 4, p 4, 4 times), k 4, p 2. _row 19_--same as row 17. _row 20_--same as row 18. _row 21_--inc first st (p 4, k 4, 5 times), p 1, k 2, p 1 (k 4, p 4, 5 times), inc last st. _row 22_--p 2 (k 4, p 4, 5 times), k 1, p 2, k 1 (p 4, k 4, 5 times), p 2. _row 23_--k 2 (p 4, k 4, 5 times), p 1, k 2, p 1 (k 4, p 4, 5 times), k 2. _row 24_--same as row 22. _row 25_--k 1 (p 4, k 4, 5 times), p 2, k 2, p 2 (k 4, p 4, 5 times), k 1. _row 26_--p 1 (k 4, p 4, 5 times), k 2, p 2, k 2 (p 4, k 4, 5 times), p 1. _row 27_--same as row 25. _row 28_--same as row 26. _row 29_--(p 4, k 4, 5 times), p 3, k 2, p 3 (k 4, p 4, 5 times). _row 30_--(k 4, p 4, 5 times), k 3, p 2, k 3 (p 4, k 4, 5 times). _row 31_--same as row 29. _row 32_--same as row 30. continue moving pattern over 1 st every 4 rows in above manner always working 2 stockinette sts in center of piece and increasing 1 st at each end every inch until you have 92 sts. continue even until work measures 10½ inches from beginning. bind off 5 sts at beg of the next 2 rows. dec 1 st at beg of the next 8 rows, (74 sts). work even until armhole measures 7 inches measuring straight up from where the 5 sts were bound off. work in pattern for 21 sts, bind off 32 sts, work remaining 21 sts. bind off 7 sts at beg of shoulder edge, 3 times. work other shoulder to correspond, joining yarn at inside of neck. [illustration: no. 815 this stocking is knit spirally and regardless which way you pull on the stocking you automatically get a heel and toe--so you see--mothers, this is a boon to leisure moments when you ordinarily would be darning. you will notice that the spiral stitch is repeated diagonally in the sweater and is very smart--especially for the young fellows who want to make _that impression_.] _front_--work same as for back until piece measures 13½ inches from beginning (3 inches above armhole). work 32 sts in pattern, bind off 10 sts for neck. work 32 sts, k 2 sts tog at beg of every row at neck edge, until 21 sts remain. work even until armhole measures 7 inches, measuring from 5 bound off sts. bind off 7 sts at beg of shoulder, 3 times. work other shoulder to correspond. _sleeves_--with no. 2 needles, cast on 60 sts, k 2, p 2 for 3 inches. change to no. 3 needles and work in pattern, working first row as follows: k 1, p 4 (k 4, p 4, 3 times), k 2 (p 4, k 4, 3 times), p 4, k 1. continue in pattern increasing 1 st on each end every inches until piece measures 15 inches, 90 sts or desired length to underarm. bind off 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows. bind off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows. now dec 1 st at beg of every row until 40 sts remain, bind off. _band at neck_--front--with no. 2 needles, holding right side toward you, pick up 76 sts across front, k 2, p 2 for 1 inch. bind off loosely in k 2, p 2. _band at back_--pick up 40 sts k 2, p 2 for 1 inch. sew shoulder seams and band at neck. sew seams at underarm. insert sleeves into armholes, having seams meet. socks _spiral ribbed socks, without heels._ no. 815 _needles_--_1 set no. 12 steel._ _material_--_heather sports yarn--4 ounces. red, yellow and royal blue 1/8 ounce each. 1 spool elastic thread._ _gauge_--_9 sts to 1 inch._ with heather cast on 72 sts (24 sts on each of 3 needles). work in ribbing (k 2, p 2) for 8 rnds. attach yellow yarn and k 1 rnd, k 2, p 2 for 1 rnd. with heather, k 1 rnd k 2, p 2 for 2 rnds. with red, k 1 rnd, k 2, p 2 for 2 rnds. with heather, k 1 rnd, k 2, p 2 for 2 rnds. with royal blue, k 1 rnd, k 2, p 2 for 5 rnds. with heather k 1 rnd, k 2, p 2 for 2 rnds. with red, k 1 rnd; k 2, p 2 for 2 rnds. with heather k 1 rnd, k 2, p 2, for 2 rnds. with yellow k 1 rnd; k 2, p 2 for 1 rnd. with heather k 1 rnd; k 2, p 2 for 13 rnds. join elastic thread, k 1 rnd; *k 4, p 4 for 3 rnds. 4th rnd, k 4, p 4 to last st. put this st on next needle. 5th rnd (first needle) k 4, p 4 to last st. put this st on next needle. (2nd needle), same as first needle. (3rd needle), k 4, p 4 to end. this moves pattern over forming a spiral. repeat from *, until work measures 22 inches from beginning, or desired length; after 2 patterns have been completed with elastic thread, continue with yarn for 2 patterns, then work 2 more patterns with elastic. join yarn and complete. _toe_--p 7, p 2 tog for 1 rnd. p 2 rnds even. p 6, p 2 tog for 1 rnd. p 2 rnds even. continue decreasing in this manner, purling 2 rnds even after every decrease rnd, 5 times more. break thread and run through remaining sts. fasten off. _queen of hearts_ no. 816 six piece ensemble in "red and white" size 10 to 12 years _needles_--_1 pair bone needles, size 3. 1 circular needle size 3, 24-inch._ _material_--_cashmere sports yarn. jacket--5 two ounce balls white. skirt--4 two ounce balls red. cap--1 two ounce ball white._ _gauge_--_7½ sts to 1 inch._ jacket _back_--cast on 92 sts (96 sts, size 12). k 1 row, p 1 row for ¾ inch. p 1 row on k side, to turn for hem. continue to k 1 row, p 1 row, until work measures 1¾ inches from start. dec 1 st on each side (90 sts). *work 1 inch even, dec 1 st on each side, repeat from *once (86 sts). work 2 inches even. now inc 1 st on each side. *work 1 inch even, inc 1 st on each side, repeat from *until piece measures 9¾ inches from start (96 sts). work 1 inch even (2 inches, size 12). bind off 3 sts on each side for underarm, then k 2 sts tog at beg of the next 8 rows (82 sts). work even for 6 inches (6½ size 12) measuring straight up from where the 3 sts were bound off. bind off 5 sts at beg of next 10 rows, bind off remaining 32 sts for back of neck. [illustration: no. 816 the answer to any problem that would arise in regard to a skating costume. the very essence of smartness that may be used as a spring, fall or winter ensemble. jacket, by the way, closes with a zipper, and the heart motif is repeated on cap, jacket and mitts.] _front_--cast on 3 sts, p back. inc in each st, p back. inc in first and last 2 sts in every k row, until you have 28 sts. cast on 5 sts at beg of the next 2 rows (38 sts). on next k row, cast on 10 sts (place marker), this will be seam end. k 1 row, p 1 row for 1 inch. *dec 1 st at seam end, work 1 inch even, repeat from *once. work 2 inches even. *now inc 1 st on seam end. work 1 inch even, repeat from *until piece measures 9 inches from marker (50 sts). work 1 inch even. bind off 4 sts at seam end for underarm, then k 2 sts tog at beg of every row at underarm, 5 times (41 sts). work even for 4 inches (4½ size 12). bind off 6 sts at neck edge, then k 2 sts tog at beg of every row at neck edge, until 28 sts remain. bind off 5 sts at beg of every row that begins at shoulder and continue to k 2 sts tog at neck edge, until all sts are bound off. _sleeves_--cast on 56 sts, p 1 row, k 1 row for ¾ inches. p 1 row on k side (to turn for hem), continue to k 1 row, p 1 row for 2 inches. *inc 1 st at each end. work 1 inch even, repeat from *, until sleeve measures 15¾ inches (86 sts), work ½ inch even or desired length to underarm. bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, then 2 sts at beg of the next 2 rows. k 2 sts tog at beg and end of every k row, until you have 44 sts, bind off. on fronts at bottom, pick up 48 sts on right side, p 1 row, k 1 row, decreasing 1 st on k rows at point, for 6 rows, bind off. _collar_--holding wrong side toward you, pick up 72 sts, cast on 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows for hem. k 4, p across to within last 4 sts, k 4. k 1 row, p 1 row for 2 rows. *k 5, inc 1 st, repeat from *across row, work 3 rows even. *k 6, inc 1 st, repeat from *across row, work 3 rows even. *k 7, inc 1 st, repeat from *across row, work 3 rows even. *k 8, inc 1 st, repeat from *across row. work 6 rows even. bind off 8 sts, p 1 row on k side. bind off 8 sts at beg of next row, p 1 row, k 1 row for 4 more rows, bind off loosely. _finishing_--sew up seams at underarm and sleeve seams, insert sleeves into arm holes, having seams meet at underarm. turn under hems and sew. work 1 row of s c up each side at fronts. _heart_--with red yarn, cast on 2 sts, p back. k next row, increasing in each st. p back (when increasing, inc on 2nd st from ends). inc at beg and end of every row until you have 20 sts. inc at beg and end of k rows only until you have 24 sts. work 4 rows even. now dec 2 sts on every k row same as you increased, until you have 20 sts. p back. k over 10 sts, p back. now k 2 tog every k row at beg and end until you have 4 sts, bind off. work other 10 sts to correspond. work 1 row of s c around heart, pin heart into shape desired, block and sew on jacket as shown on illustration. skirt with no. 3 circular needle, cast on 480 sts. join being careful not to twist sts. k 1 row, p 1 row, for 6 rows for border (3 ribs). *p 2, k 78, repeat from *for 1 rnd. k next rnd. repeat these 2 rnds for 1 inch. on next rnd, make a decreased row as follows: *p 2, k 2 sts, k 2 tog, k 70, k 2 tog, k 2, repeat from *for 1 rnd (468 sts). work in pattern for 1 inch. make another decreased rnd as follows: *p 2, k 2 sts, k 2 tog, k 33, k 2 tog, k 33, k 2 tog, k 2, repeat from *for 1 rnd (450 sts). work in pattern for 1 inch. continue to dec 18 sts (3 sts in each gore, 1 dec on each side of gore, on 3rd and 4th sts, 1 st in center of each gore), until skirt measures 17 inches, 180 sts, (26 waist). work ½ inch even. now dec 12 sts to the rnd, omitting center decreases 168 sts (24 waist). work ½ inch even or desired length to waist line. p 1 row, k ½ inch even, bind off loosely. insert elastic and turn for hem. cap _side of cap_--with no. 3 needle, cast on 28 sts, *k 1 row. on next row, k 4, (border), p back, repeat from *for 1 inch. now inc 1 st at end of next row and continue to k 4 on purled rows for border. work 1 inch even. inc 1 st every inch on same side, until you have 35 sts, 7 inches. work 2 inches even. now dec 1 st every inch same as you increased, 28 sts, work 1 inch even, bind off. _back of cap_--cast on 24 sts, *k 1 row, p 1 row for 3 rows, inc 1 st at beg and end of next row, repeat from *until you have 36 sts, 3 inches. work ½ inch even, now dec 1 st on each end and dec 1 st on each end every 4th row, until you have 28 sts, p 1 row, k 1 row, bind off. fold front piece in half, mark center of cap at opposite edge from border. place mark in center of bound off sts on back of cap. sew center back to front piece having markers meet. block seam lightly on right side of cap. with red work scallops around seam of cap, as follows: holding back of cap toward you, fasten yarn at bottom, ch 1, *skip a space, work (1 h d c, 3 d c, 1 h d c) in next st, skip a space, s c in next space, repeat from *around back of cap about 20 scallops. _ties_--ch 70, work 1 s c around bottom of cap (continuing with same thread), skipping about 10 sts, ch 70 sts. work 1 row of s c over chains and back of cap. block lightly into shape. _hearts_--with red, cast on 2 sts, p 2 sts. k increasing in each st, p back. *on next row inc in first 2 sts and last 2 sts, p back, repeat from *once. k 1 row, p 1 row even for 4 rows. k 2 tog, k 4, turn, p 2 tog, p 3, k 2 tog, k 2 turn. p 2 tog, p 1, bind off 2 sts, break thread. work other 6 sts to correspond and work 1 row of s c around heart. sew hearts on each side of cap as shown on illustration. slip-over no. 816 size 10 to 12 years _needles_--_1 pair bone size 1 and 3._ _material_--_4 one ounce balls kashmir fleece._ _gauge_--_8 sts to 1 inch--no. 3 needles._ _back_--with no. 1 needles, cast on 104 sts (size 12, 108 sts), k 1, p 1 for 5 inches. change to no. 3 needles, k 1 row, p 1 row, until piece measures 11 inches. bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows for underarm, then k 2 tog at beg of the next 6 rows (92 sts). work even until armhole measures 5½ inches, measuring straight up from where the 3 sts were bound off. on next k row, k 29, put remainder of sts on st holder. p back on 29 sts. on next row, bind off 5 sts at beg of every row at armhole edge, 5 times and p 2 tog at beg of every row at neck edge. work other 29 sts to correspond. _neck band_--with no. 1 needles, pick up 50 sts, k 1, p 1 ribbing for 1 inch, bind off, k 1, p 1. _front_--cast on 104 (size 12, 108), k 1, p 1 for 5 inches. change to no. 3 needles. on next row, k 26, k 1, p 1 for 52 sts, k 26. on next row p 27, p 1, k 1, for 50 sts, p 27. next row, k 28, k 1, p 1, for 48 sts, k 28. next row, p 29, p 1, k 1, for 46 sts, p 29. continue in this manner having 2 sts less in pattern on every row, until all sts are k. p 1 row, k 1 row until piece measures same as for back. bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, then k 2 tog at beg of the next 8 rows (90 sts). work even until armhole measures 2 inches (2½ inches, size 12). k 44, k 1, p 1, k 44. next row, p 43, p 1, k 1, p 1, k 1, p 43. next row, k 42 (k 1, p 1, 3 times), k 42. next row, p 41 (p 1, k 1, 4 times), p 41. continue in this manner having 2 more sts in pattern every row, until you have 28 sts in pattern. k 31, put remainder of sts on st holder. p back. p 2 tog at beg of every 4th row, at neck edge until 25 sts remain. bind off 5 sts at beg of every row at armhole edge, 5 times, work even at neck edge. work other side to correspond, (put 28, k 1, p 1) on st holder. band at neck. pick up 23 sts, k 1, p 1 following pattern across front, pick up 23 sts on other side. k 1, p 1 for 1 inch, bind off k 1, p 1. _sleeves_--with no. 1 needles, cast on 66 sts. k 1, p 1 for 2½ inches. change to no. 3 needles, k 20, k 1, p 1 for 26 sts, k 20. next row, p 21, p 1, k 1, for 24 sts, p 21. k 22, k 1, p 1 for 22 sts, k 22. p 23, p 1, k 1 for 20 sts, p 23. continue in this manner having 2 sts less in pattern every row, until all sts are k, inc 1 st on each end and continue to inc 1 st on each end every 4th row, until sleeve measures 4½ inches (72 sts). bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, then 2 sts at beg of the next 2 rows (62 sts). k 2 tog at beg and end of every 4th row until you have 40 sts, bind off. sew up shoulder seams, sew back and front together. sew sleeve seams and insert into armhole. mittens no. 816 size 6 to 8, 10 to 12 _needles_--_1 set of bone, no. 5._ _material_--_2½ oz. knitting worsted._ _gauge_--_5 sts to 1 inch._ _cuff_--cast on 44 sts, 16 sts on each 2 needles, 12 on 3rd needle, *p 4 rnds. k 4 rnds, repeat from *2 more times. k 2, p 2 around row for 3 inches (size 6 to 8), 4 inches (size 10 to 12). put next 12 sts on st holder and cast on 4 sts. continue to k 2, p 2 for 2½ inches (size 6 to 8), 3½ inches (size 10 to 12). on next rnd, k 2 tog, p 2 tog for 1 rnd. k 1, p 1 for 4 rnds. k 2 tog until you have 9 sts, draw through and sew. _thumb_--pick up 12 sts from st holder, pick up 4 sts from hand. k 2, p 2 for 1½ inches, size 6 to 8 (1¾ inches, size 10 to 12), then p the 2 p sts tog for 1 rnd. next rnd k the 2 k sts tog for 1 rnd (8 sts), draw through and sew. with red sports yarn make 2 small hearts as follows: with no. 2 needles, cast on 2 sts, p 2 sts, k increasing in each st. p back. *inc in first and last st, p back, repeat from *once. k 1 row, p 1 row. k 2 tog, k 2, turn, p back. k 1, k 2 tog, bind off. work other 4 sts to correspond. make another heart in same manner. sew 2 pieces tog and fill with red yarn. make 3 more hearts in same manner. with 2 strands of sports yarn, ch 52 sts, sew heart on each end, tie a bow and sew on mitts as shown on illustration. these can easily be removed when washing. _directions for socks on page 22._ _aloha_ no. 817 herringbone coat and hat in "shark blue" size 12 _needles_--_1 pair american standard no. 4._ _material_--_heather knitting worsted. coat--6 four ounce skeins. hat--1 four ounce skein._ _gauge_--_2 patterns to 3 inches, (coat); 5 sts to 1 inch, (hat)._ _pattern stitch_--_multiple of 9, plus 1 st._ _bust measure_--_30 inches._ swatch _swatch_--cast on 19 sts, row 1, p. row 2-k 4 sts, *inc in next st by knitting 1 st in next st of row below in back, then k the next st, k 3 sts, k 2 tog, k 3, repeat from *across row, ending with k 2 tog. row 3--p. row 4--*k 2 sts tog, k 3 sts, inc 1 st (same as row 2), k 3 sts, repeat from *across row, ending k 4. [illustration: no. 817 the young lady who has a "_know_" in style will immediately sense the style value of this swagger-style coat. the patch pockets relieve the plain front and give it an air of distinction. notice particularly the herring-bone stitch giving the garment the tailored effect. the coat can be finished with machine stitching--or by hand. the accompanying beret is finished in red, white and blue ribbon. notice too the emblem on the beret.] coat _right half of back_--cast on 64 sts, p back. row 2k 4, *inc 1 st (same as swatch) k 3, k 2 tog, k 3, repeat from *across row, ending with k 2 tog, p back. row 4--*k 2 tog, k 3, inc 1 st, k 3, repeat from *ending with k 4. repeat these 4 rows for 3 inches (place marker for side seam). make first dec (on side seam), on 2nd row of pattern as follows: k 2 tog, k 2, *inc 1 st, k 3, k 2 tog, k 3, repeat from *across row, ending with k 2 tog, p back. (always dec on 2nd row of pattern when decreasing thruout coat). next row, k 2 tog, k 2, *inc 1 st, k 3, k 2 tog, k 3, repeat from *across row, ending with k 4. p back. *k 3, inc 1 st, k 3, k 2 tog, repeat from *across row ending with k 2 tog. p back. repeat last 4 rows for 2 inches. 2nd dec: k 2 tog k 1, *inc 1 st, k 3, k 2 tog, k 3, repeat from *across row, ending with k 2 tog. on next purled row make a dec at center seam, p 2 tog, continue purling across. k 2 tog, k 1, *inc 1 st, k 3, k 2 tog, k 3, repeat from *ending with k 3, p back. k 2, *inc 1 st, k 3, k 2 tog, k 3, repeat from *across row, ending with k 2, k 2 tog, p back. repeat these last 4 rows, for 2 inches. make another dec on seam end, k 2 tog, *inc 1 st, k 3, k 2 tog, k 3, repeat from *ending with k 2, k 2 tog, p back. k 2 tog, *inc 1 st, k 3, k 2 tog, k 3, repeat from *ending with k 3, p back. k 1, inc 1 st, *k 3, k 2 tog, k 3, inc 1 st, repeat from *ending with k 2, k 2 tog, p back. repeat these last 4 rows for 2 inches. dec in this manner, knitting 2 sts tog at side seam, every 2 inches, and p 2 tog at center seam every 4 inches, until piece measures 27 inches from bottom. work even for 2 inches or desired length to underarm (45 sts). bind off 4 sts at beg of next row at underarm, k 2 sts tog at beg of the next 4 rows at underarm (37 sts). work even for 6¾ inches. bind off 6 sts at beg of the next 4 rows, bind off remaining 13 sts for neckline. work other half of back to correspond. _left front_--cast on 82 sts, work in pattern same as for back for 3 inches. now dec 1 st at seam end. work 2 inches even. make a dec at seam end every 2 inches until piece measures 27 inches, meanwhile dec 1 st at front edge every 4 inches (63 sts). work even to underarm 29 inches or desired length to underarm. bind off 5 sts at beginning of the next row at underarm. continue to k 2 sts tog at underarm until you have 53 sts. work even at underarm and dec every 2 inches at front edge, until piece measures 4½ inches above the 5 bound off sts (51 sts). bind off 15 sts at beg of next row at neck edge. now k 2 sts tog at beg and end of every row at neck edge, until 30 sts remain. bind off 6 sts at beg of the next 4 rows at armhole and continue to dec at neck edge, in same manner. work right front to correspond, until you have 20 inches from bottom. k 8 sts, bind off 5 sts for buttonhole continue pattern across row, p back and cast on 5 sts over those bound off. continue same as left front working buttonholes 4 inches apart. [illustration] _sleeves_--cast on 55 sts, work in pattern for 1½ inches. now inc 1 st at each end. continue to inc 1 st at each end every 1½ inches, until sleeve measures 16½ inches (77 sts). work even until sleeve measures 18 inches or desired length to underarm. bind off 4 sts at beg of the next 2 rows. bind off 2 sts, at beg of the next 2 rows (65 sts). now k 2 sts tog at beg and end of every k row, until 33 sts remain, bind off. _collar_--cast on 70 sts, p back. k next row, increasing 1 st at beg and end (inc 1 st at beg and end of every other k row thruout collar). k 1 row, p 1 row for 5 rows. on next row, inc in every 6th st across row. work 5 rows even, make another inc in same manner 2 more times, having increases come directly above those of previous increases. k 1 row, p 1 row, bind off 8 sts, k across on p side (hem line). then bind off 8 sts, k across. p 1 row, k 1 row for 3 more rows, bind off loosely. _pockets_--cast on 19 sts. work in pattern for 4 rows. cast on 9 sts. work back. cast on 9 more sts. work in pattern for 5½ inches. bind off 9 sts at beg of the next 2 rows. work even on 19 sts for 4 rows, bind off. block all pieces before hemming. sew backs tog. sew fronts to side seams of back. sew shoulder seams. sew ¾ inch hem on fronts, bottom of coat and sleeves. sew hem in collar and pockets. sew pocket to coat as shown on illustration. sew collar to neck edge about 1 inch from fronts after hem on fronts. sew sleeve seams and insert into armhole having two small inverted pleats at top of sleeve. sew on buttons. insert shoulder pads. hat ch 4, join, work 7 s c in ring, 2 s c in each st, until you have 28 sts around. now inc in every 5th st, until you have 60 sts around, then in every 15th st, until there are 100 sts around. inc in every 20th, until there are 160 sts around. work 2 rnds even, break thread. this will be center back. count 48 sts on each side of center back, place 2 markers, holding right side toward you, s c from marker to marker, break thread. 2nd short row: count 45 sts from center back and s c to within 45 sts from center back on other side, decreasing 3 sts spaced at equal distances apart. work 10 more short rows in same manner as 2nd row (working 3 sts more on each side toward center back). work 7 more rows in same manner, decreasing 5 sts to the rnd. work 7 rows even or dec to fit headsize. tack grosgrain ribbon around band, sew on emblem. abbreviations used in knitting and crochet instructions the following abbreviations are used throughout the book. k knit p purl ch chain h d c half double crochet cr crochet sl st slip stitch rnd round beg beginning tr cr triple crochet s c single crochet d c double crochet tog together st stitch sts stitches y o yarn over p picot p.s.s.o pass slip stitch over *(asterisk). when this symbol appears, continue working until instructions refer you back to this symbol. _even_ means that a row must be worked without increasing or decreasing. _work_ means to continue with the stitch as described. _half double crochet_--yarn over, draw up a loop in st, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook. _slip stitch_--insert hook in next st, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook. * * * * * _blocking_--pin the garment, with rust proof pins, wrong side out, on a pressing board in exactly the measurements desired. place a damp cloth over garment and with a moderately hot iron, press lightly, allowing the steam to go through. lay on a flat surface until thoroughly dry. _needle gauge_--when making a garment--work a swatch, using the needles called for to determine whether or not your work measures the same number of stitches to the inch as given in the scale. change size of needles accordingly. _when using colors_--in changing color always k the first row on right side regardless of pattern. * * * * * [illustration: _get these 5 other editions ... own the complete juvenile styles library_] you will want these other popular editions of juvenile styles by mary hoyer little wonder that so many mothers have collected all these editions of juvenile styles. these four books comprise a modern library of knitting and crocheting for infants thru 'teen age ... a wealth of easy-to-follow instructions for a few well invested pennies. complete your juvenile styles library today. mary's dollies is a companion book containing instructions for dollies' garments. you'll enjoy knitting and crocheting distinctively styled garments truly worthy of your time and talent. _if your local store cannot supply our books, send direct to_ juvenile styles publishing company 1008 penn street reading, pennsylvania (include 5c extra to cover mailing costs) * * * * * america's biggest doll value "_miss victory_" exclusive creation of your favorite designer mary hoyer with instructions for 6 lovely knitted and crocheted costumes this gorgeous, exclusive doll positively represents "the _most value_ for _your money_" ... and also, "the _most thrills_ for _your daughter_" (or any other good little girl you know.) it is built as sturdily as the finest quality pre-war dolls! and "miss victory" has a hair coiffure designed by mary hoyer, who has designed the six charming costumes illustrated in volume 9 of "mary's dollies." you get volume 9 free with your purchase of this 14" doll--both at the bargain price of only $2.50 postpaid. simply send check or money order for one or more dolls, and state your preference in hair color: blonde, medium or dark brown. [illustration: _free_ with purchase of doll -> mary's dollies] important--the six costumes and their instructions are easy-to-follow. you will truly enjoy knitting these little outfits yourself, from odds-and-ends of yarn in your basket. no expense--and very, very little time involved. just "happy moments of knitting." remember, volume 9 is _free_ with the doll; you can also purchase the two previous volumes of "mary's dollies" at the same time for 15c each. [illustration: as advertised in mccall's 6 new costumes still available for only 15c each volumes five & six] mail your order today _don't delay_ order this doll and these books today _from_ juvenile styles publishing company 1008 penn street reading, pa. transcriber's note obvious typographical errors have been corrected. a list of corrections is found at the end of the text. inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation have been maintained. a list of inconsistently spelled and hyphenated words is found at the end of the text. the ladies' work-table book; containing clear and practical instructions in plain and fancy needlework, embroidery, knitting, netting, and crochet. with numerous engravings, illustrative of the various stitches in those useful and fashionable employments. new-york: j. winchester, 30 ann-street 1844. introduction. if it be true that "home scenes are rendered happy or miserable in proportion to the good or evil influence exercised over them by woman--as sister, wife, or mother"--it will be admitted as a fact of the utmost importance, that every thing should be done to improve the taste, cultivate the understanding, and elevate the character of those "high priestesses" of our domestic sanctuaries. the page of history informs us, that the progress of any nation in morals, civilization, and refinement, is in proportion to the elevated or degraded position in which woman is placed in society; and the same instructive volume will enable us to perceive, that the fanciful creations of the needle, have exerted a marked influence over the pursuits and destinies of man. to blend the useful, with the ornamental and to exhibit the gushing forth of mind, vitalised by the warm and glowing affections of the heart, is the peculiar honor and sacred destiny of woman. without her influence, life would be arrayed in sables, and the proud lords of creation would be infinitely more miserable and helpless than the beasts that perish. to render then those "terrestrial angels" all that our fondest wishes could desire, or our most vivid imaginations picture, must be, under any circumstances, a pleasing and delightful employment; while for a father or a brother to behold her returning all the care bestowed upon her, by the thousand offices of love, to the performance to which she alone is equal, is doubtless one of the most exalted sources of human felicity. providence has, in a remarkable manner, adapted woman's tastes and propensities to the station she was designed to occupy in the scale of being. tender and affectionate, it is her highest bliss to minister to the wants, the convenience, or the pleasure of those she loves; and hence, her inventive powers have been, in all ages, called into early and active exercise, in the fabrication of those articles calculated to accomplish those desirable ends. amongst these, useful and ornamental needlework, knitting, and netting, occupy a distinguished place, and are capable of being made, not only sources of personal gratification, but of high moral benefit, and the means of developing in surpassing loveliness and grace, some of the highest and noblest feelings of the soul. to become an expert needle-woman should be an object of ambition to every fair one. never is beauty and feminine grace so attractive, as when engaged in the honorable discharge of household duties, and domestic cares. the subjects treated of in this little manual are of vast importance, and to them we are indebted for a large amount of the comforts we enjoy; as, without their aid, we should be reduced to a state of misery and destitution of which it is hardly possible to form an adequate conception. to learn, then, how to fabricate articles of dress and utility for family use, or, in the case of ladies blessed with the means of affluence, for the aid and comfort of the deserving poor, should form one of the most prominent branches of female education. and yet experience must have convinced those who are at all conversant with the general state of society, that this is a branch of study to which nothing like due attention is paid in the usual routine of school instruction. the effects of this neglect are often painfully apparent in after life, when, from a variety of circumstances, such knowledge would be of the highest advantage, and subservient to the noblest ends, either of domestic comfort, or of active and generous benevolence. the records of history inform us of the high antiquity of the art of needlework; and its beautiful mysteries were amongst the earliest developments of female taste and ingenuity. as civilization increased, new wants called forth new exertions; the loom poured forth its multifarious materials, and the needle, with its accompanying implements, gave form and utility to the fabrics submitted to its operations. no one can look upon the needle, without emotion; it is a constant companion throughout the pilgrimage of life. we find it the first instrument of use placed in the hand of budding childhood, and it is found to retain its usefulness and charm, even when trembling in the grasp of fast declining age. the little girl first employs it in the dressing of her doll: then she is taught its still higher use, in making up some necessary articles for a beloved brother, or a revered parent. approaching to womanhood, additional preparations of articles of use, as ornaments of herself and others, call for its daily employment; and with what tender emotions does the glittering steel inspire the bosom, as beneath its magic touch, that which is to deck a lover or adorn a bride, becomes visible in the charming productions of female skill and fond regard. to the adornments of the bridal bed, the numerous preparations for an anxiously-expected little stranger, and the various comforts and conveniences of life, the service of this little instrument is indispensible. often too is it found aiding in the preparation of gifts of friendship, the effects of benevolence, and the works of charity. many of those articles, which minister so essentially to the solace of the afflicted, would be unknown without it; and its friendly aid does not desert us, even in the dark hour of sorrow and affliction. by its aid, we form the last covering which is to enwrap the body of a departed loved one, and prepare those sable habiliments, which custom has adopted as the external signs of mourning. the needle is also capable of becoming an important monitor to the female heart; and we would impress this truth seriously upon their recollection, that as there is "sermons in stones, and good in every thing." so the needle they so often use, is, or may be, a silent but salutary moral teacher. they all know that however good the eye of a needle may be, if it were rusted and pointless, it would be of little use. let them also recollect, that though it may posses the finest point and polish in the world, if destitute of the eye, it would be of no use at all. the lesson we wish them to derive from hence, is this; that as it is the eye which holds the thread, and that it is by the thread alone that the needle becomes useful, so it is the eye of intelligence directed to the attainment of useful ends, that gives all the real value to the point and polish, which is so much admired in the educated female; and that unless the intellectual powers of the mind be engaged in the pursuits of goodness, all other endowments will be useless to their possessor. let them learn also, not to despise such of their companions as, though intelligent and useful, are neither possessed of wit or elegance equal to their own. circumstances may have rendered them, like the needle, rusty and pointless; but the eye of intelligence is there, and they may still be useful. the want of a work containing clear instructions, without unnecessary diffuseness, by which the uninitiated may become their own instructors, has long been sensibly felt; and this want, the following pages are intended to supply. our aim is, not to make young ladies servile copyists, but to lead them to the formation of habits of thought and reflection, which may issue in higher attainments than the knitting of a shawl, or the netting of a purse. indeed, it is only when accomplishments are rendered subservient to the development of moral goodness, that they may become pursuits at all worthy of an accountable being. we were not sent into this world to flutter through life, like the gaudy butterfly, only to be seen and admired. we were designed to be useful to our fellow beings; and to make all our powers and capabilities, in some way or other conducive to the happiness and welfare of our co-journeyers on the path of time. to this end, we wish our fair countrywomen to devote their best attention; and, in its attainment, to exert every energy which they possess. we wish them to make all the knowledge which they may acquire subserve some noble purpose, which will outlive the present hour. but to do this, the well-spring of the purest affections must be opened in the soul; and the elegant productions of taste and genius become vitalized, and animated, by the spirit of love. thus, and thus only, can the occupations of a leisure hour be converted into efficient ministers of good; and such they will assuredly be found, if practised from right motives, and placed in due subordination to the right exercise of more important duties, which we owe to heaven, to our fellow beings, and to ourselves. we are anxious to render elegant amusements conducive to the attainment of moral ends; and to lay that foundation of intellectual superiority, and affectionate regard, for the comfort and happiness of others, which can alone give light and animation, sweetness and blooming freshness, to the interesting scenes of future life. all engagements, which are calculated to elevate, soften, and harmonize the human character, have this tendency; and it is in the assured conviction that the employments here treated of, are, when cultivated in due subordination to higher duties, well adapted to secure these objects, and to promote these domestic ends, that the ladies' work-table book has been prepared, and is now presented to the lovely daughters of our land. the public will be the best judge how far we have succeeded in our effort. small as the work is, it has not been produced without much labor, and considerable exercise of thought; and it is dedicated to our fair countrywomen, in the fervent hope, that it will not be found altogether unworthy of their favorable notice and regard. in concluding these introductory remarks, we wish to say a word or two to the parents and guardians of those, whose excellence of character is so essential to the welfare of our beloved country. we trust by you, our little manual will be cordially approved, and placed, as a memento of affection, in the hands of those you most desire to see models of sincerity, elegance, and accomplishments. this will be well; but we trust the matter will not be allowed to rest there. it is not when good instructors and proper books are provided for the young, that the duties of the parental relationship are performed. no; care must be taken to give efficiency to the means thus called into requisition, by the most assiduous care, devoted attention, and judiciously expressed approval on the part of those who claim the highest regard from the rising generation. the path of education is not always strewed with flowers, nor can it ever be pursued with either pleasure or advantage unless a foundation of practical piety and moral worth be laid, on which the superstructure may securely rest. it has been well remarked "that intellect may be cultivated at school, but that the affections of the heart can only be properly developed amid the scenes of home." our aim in this work has been, while seeking to promote the purposes of genuine education, to raise high the moral sentiments, and cultivate to an eminent degree the best sensibilities of the soul. in this we ask for your cordial and careful co-operation. we know the influence of a judicious mother, and we confidently commend our labor to your favorable regard. contents. chapter i. materials and implements for working 17 chapter ii. plain needlework--explanation of stitches 28 chapter iii. plain needlework--instructions in the preparation of body linen 37 chapter iv. plain needlework--instructions in the preparation of house linen 54 chapter v. plain needlework--miscellaneous instructions 59 chapter vi. fancy needlework--explanation of stitches 63 chapter vii. fancy needlework--explanation of patterns 71 chapter viii. fancy needlework--instructions in embroidery 79 chapter ix. fancy needlework--preparation of frames 82 chapter x. fancy needlework--application of fancy needlework to useful purposes 88 chapter xi. fancy needlework--special instructions 91 chapter xii. knitting--explanation of stitches 97 chapter xiii. knitting--examples in knitting 111 chapter xiv. netting--explanation of stitches 125 chapter xv. netting--examples in netting 135 chapter xvi. crochet--explanation of the principal stitches in crochet work 142 chapter xvii. crochet--examples in crochet 148 chapter xviii. tatting--explanation of stitches 153 chapter xix. concluding remarks 155 the ladies' work-table book. chapter i. materials and implements for working. materials for plain needlework. the subject of this chapter is one to which it is hardly possible to pay too much attention; since, on the judicious selection of materials, depends, to a vast extent, the success of that prudent and well-regulated economy, which is so essential to the welfare and prosperity of every family. on this account, we have thought it right to place before our readers the following observations, which should be carefully attended to, as of the utmost importance. in purchasing goods, be careful to examine the quality; and, if not experienced in such matters, take with you an experienced friend. cheap goods generally prove the dearest in the end. the following rules may assist you in this respect, if under the necessity of relying upon your own judgment. be careful, in purchasing articles, such as linen, calico, &c., for a specific purpose, to have it the proper width. a great deal of waste may be incurred, by inattention to this important direction. calico is often so dressed up, as to make it extremely difficult to ascertain its real quality: hence, it is best to buy it undressed. it should be soft, and free from specks. it is of various widths, and of almost all prices. a good article, at a medium price, will be found cheapest in the end. linen is of various qualities. that which is called suffolk hemp is considered the best. irish linen is also in great repute. but you must be careful to escape imposition; as there are plenty of imitations, which are good for nothing. muslin checks are much used for caps, &c., and are of various qualities. you may form a good judgment of these, by observing the thin places between the checks and the threads; if the former be good, and the latter even, they may generally be relied on. blue checks.--these may be procured either of cotton or linen; but the linen ones, though highest in price, are cheapest in the end: they will wear double the length of time that the cotton ones will. prints.--give a good price, if you wish to secure a good article. some colors, as red, pink, lilac, bright brown, buff, and blue, wear well; green, violet, and some other colors are very liable to fade. the best way is to procure a patch, and wash half of it. this will test the color, and may prevent much disappointment. flannels.--the welsh flannels are generally preferred, as those that are the most durable. lancashire flannels are cheapest, but are far inferior in quality. you may know the one from the other by the color: the flannels of lancashire are of a yellowish hue; those of wales are a kind of bluish gray tint. woollen cloths.--these vary exceedingly, as to quality. the low-priced ones are not worth half the purchase money. good woollen cloth is smooth, and has a good nap. if the sample shown you, be destitute of these qualities, have nothing to do with it, unless you want to be cheated. stuffs.--the quality of these is sometimes very difficult to detect. holding them up to the light is a good plan. you should also be particular as to the dyeing, as that is sometimes very indifferently managed, and the stuff is dashed. black dye is liable to injure the material. low-priced stuffs are rarely good for anything. crape.--this is often damaged in the dying. you should spread it over a white surface before you purchase it, as by that means, the blemishes in the material, if any, will be more likely to appear. silks.--these are, if good, costly; and great care should be exercised in selecting them. they should not be too stiff, as in that case they are liable to crack; and on the other hand, they should not be too thin, as that kind is liable to tear almost as soon as paper. a medium thickness and stiffness is the best. if plain, you must be careful that there are no stains or specks in them; and if figured, it is advisable to have the pattern equally good on both sides. this will enhance the price at first, but you will find it to be good economy afterward. in silks that are to be sold cheap, a kind of camel's hair is frequently introduced. this may be detected by pulling a piece of the suspected silk cross ways, and if camel's hair be mixed with it, it will spring with a kind of whirring sound. this should be attended to. satin.--it is of various qualities and prices. the best is soft and thick. when used for trimmings, it should be cut the cross way, as it then looks better, and has a much richer appearance than when put on straight. these general observations will be of great use, and should be well impressed upon the memory, so as readily to be called into exercise when needed. in making up linen, thread is much preferable to cotton. sewing-silk should be folded up neatly in wash leather, and colored threads and cotton in paper, as the air and light are likely to injure them. buttons, hooks and eyes, and all metal implements, when not in use, should be kept folded up; as exposure to the air not only tarnishes them, but is likely to injure them in a variety of ways. materials for fancy needlework. canvas (coarse) eighteen threads to the inch. work in cross stitch with double wool. this is proper for a foot-stool, sofa-pillow, &c. canvas (very coarse) ten threads to the inch. work in cross stitch, over one thread, with single wool. if used for grounding, work in two threads. this will accelerate the work, and look equally well. silk leaves.--if no grounding is required, work in tent stitch. the pattern should be large in proportion to the fineness of the material. the finer the canvas, the larger the pattern. color.--an attention to shade is of the utmost consequence; as on this, in an eminent degree, depends the perfection of the work. the shades must be so chosen, as to blend into each other, or all harmony of coloring will be destroyed. the canvas must be more distinct in tent stitch than in cross stitch, or rather more strongly contrasted, especially in the dark shades of flowers: without attention to this point, a good resemblance of nature cannot be obtained. wool, (english and german) white, black, and various colors.--two, three, four, five, or six shades of each color, as the nature of the work may require. the same observation applies to silk and cotton, in cases where those materials are used. split wool, for mosaic work. silk. split silk. floss. half twist. deckers. china silk. fine purse silk. cotton, of various kinds. gold twist. silver thread. chenille. beads. thick and transparent gold. bright and burnt steel. silver plated, &c. perforated cards. canvas, called bolting, for bead work. scale of canvases. english canvas. ------------------------------------------ canvas no. cross stitch. tent stitch. ------------------------------------------ 16 4-1/2 9 18 5 10 20 5-1/2 11 22 6 12 24 6-1/2 13 26 7 14 28 7-1/2 15 30 8 16 32 9 18 34 9-1/2 19 36 10 20 38 10-1/4 21 40 11 22 42 11-1/2 23 45 12-1/2 25 48 13 26 50 14 28 55 15 30 60 17 34 silk canvas. ------------------------------------------ canvas no. cross stitch. tent stitch. ------------------------------------------ 14 28 french canvas. ------------------------------------------ canvas no. cross stitch. tent stitch. ------------------------------------------ 10 6-1/2 13 12 7-1/2 15 14 8-1/2 17 16 9-1/2 19 18 10 20 19 11 22 20 12 24 22 13 26 24 14 28 26 30 15 30 40 16 32 materials for embroidery. silk, satin, velvet, and cloth. materials for knitting, netting, and crochet. silk.--this material is extensively used in the various productions of which we are about to treat. the kinds usually employed in knitting, netting, and crochet, are purse silk, or twist; coarse and fine netting silk; second sized purse twist; plain silk; china silk; extra fine, and finest netting silk; second sized netting silk; coarse and fine chenille, and crochet silk. these are so well known that it would be a waste of time to describe them in detail. they are of a great variety of colors, and of different qualities; some sorts being much more durable, both in fabric and color, than others. no young lady should trust, at first, to her own judgment in making the selection: but a little attention will soon render her a proficient in the art of choosing the most profitable materials. the china silks of the french surpass all others, of that kind, with which we are acquainted, both as to the nature of tints, and the brilliancy of the various dyes and shades. wool.--this is of various colors and shades; german wool, single, and double; hamburgh wool, fleecy, of three, four, five, six, seven, and eight threads; embroidery fleecy shetland wool; english wool, coarse yarn, for mitts. brief description of wools. german wool is the produce of the merino breed, in its highest state of cultivation, and is the best sheep's wool we possess. the merino fleece is brought to the greatest perfection in saxony, and the adjacent states. it is chiefly manufactured for the purposes of needle-work, &c., at gotha; the dyeing of it is performed at berlin, and in other parts of germany. the wools of germany are, in fineness and softness, much, superior to those of spain. the wool is prepared in various sizes, and for some kinds of work, may be split with great advantage. a large quantity is imported into this country in a raw state, and is dyed and manufactured here. some of this is equal to the wools prepared in germany, as to quality; but the brilliancy of the color will not bear comparison. this remark does not extend to the black german wool, prepared in this country, and which is far superior to that prepared on the continent. much wool, of a very superior quality is annually prepared for the market; and so great is its resemblance to a superior article, that it requires much attention, and an experienced eye, to detect the fraud. english wool, or what is often called embroidery wool, is much harsher than that of germany; yet it is of a very superior kind, and much to be preferred for some kinds of work. the dye of several colors of english lamb's wool is equal to that of the best dyes of germany; especially scarlet and some of the shades of blue, green, and gold color, which for brilliancy and permanency, may justly claim equality with the most finished productions of the continental states. worsted is another description of our native produce, and is extensively used for a great variety of useful purposes, which are familiar to every one. a great portion of the needle-work of the last century was done in a fine kind of worsted, called crewels: and some specimens still remain, which do great credit to the venerable grandames of the present generation. yarn is a coarse kind of worsted, much employed in making garden nets, and for various other purposes. fleecy (english) is manufactured from the leicestershire breed, and is much used in knitting and netting: it is of two qualities; both varying in size, from an eighth to a quarter of an inch in diameter. they are made up of threads, varying from two to twelve, and are both equally good. they are applied to crochet as well as to the other descriptions of work named. german fleecy, thought but little used, is much superior to that of this country. hamburgh wool is an excellent article, but has not hitherto been much in request. great care is necessary, in selecting wool of good quality: but let the young novice give to the subject her best attention; and should she find herself sometimes deceived, still persevere, remembering that "practice makes perfect." cotton, of various sizes, as numbered from one to six, or higher if required. in the choice of this material, much care is needed, not only in the selection of colors and shades, but also to ascertain if the color has been stained with a permanent dye. down.--this is sometimes used for stuffing knitted cushions, muffs, &c., and is too well known to need any description here. gold and silver thread and cord.--the precious metals are now very generally employed in the ornamental parts of all kinds of fancy work. gold and silver threads consists of a thread of silk, round which is spun an exceedingly fine wire of the metal required. for gold, silver or copper gilt wire is employed, as pure gold could not be so easily wrought. these threads can be employed in almost any way which the taste of the fair artist may induce her to devise. besides the thread, gold and silver cord is also in much demand, and looks extremely beautiful, when employed with taste and judgment. this material is a twist, and is composed of different quantities of threads, according to the thickness required. much care is required in working with it, or the beauty of the material will be spoilt. it is much used in crochet, and without due attention, the point of the needle is liable to catch the cord, and to break the wire, which would entirely destroy the beauty of the performance. beads.--these beautiful fabrications of art, are composed of gold, silver, polished steel, and glass. there is also a beautiful sort called garnet beads, with gold points. all these can be procured at any of the establishments for the sale of fancy articles, and are to be employed as the judgment or fancy may direct. the gold beads are used in making all kinds of knitting, netting, and crochet, and look well either by themselves, or when in connection with those of the other materials named. glass beads, may be procured of any variety of color, and when in combination with gold, silver, or steel, form a beautiful relief. necessary implements for fancy needlework. frames. cross stitch needles. sewing needles. meshes, of various sizes--at least three. chenille needles. pair of long sharp-pointed scissors. cartridge paper. tissue paper. a fine piercer. seam piercer. camel's hair brushes. mixture of white lead and gum water, to draw patterns for dark materials. mixture of stone blue and gum water, for light colors. black lead pencils. necessary implements for knitting. needles of various sizes. the nos. referred to are those of the knitting needle gauge. needles pointed at either end, for turkish knitting. ivory, or wooden pins, for knitting a biroche. a knitting sheath, &c., to be fastened on the waist of the knitter, toward the right hand, for the purpose of keeping the needle in a steady and proper position. necessary implements for netting. a pin or mesh, on which to form the loops. a needle called a netting needle, formed into a kind of fork, with two prongs at each end. the ends of the prongs meet and form a blunt point, not fastened like the eye of a common needle, but left open, that the thread or twine may pass between them, and be wound upon the needle. the prongs are brought to a point, in order that the needle may pass through a small loop without interruption. twine to form foundations. a fine long darning needle for bead work. meshes of various, sizes from no. 1 to 11. flat meshes, and ivory meshes; also of various sizes. the gauge is the same as that for knitting-needles. necessary implements for crochet. [illustration] ivory crochet needles of various sizes. steel crochet needles. rug needles and a pair of long sharp pointed scissors. these implements should be disposed in a regular and orderly manner, as should also the materials for working. order and regularity are matters but too frequently neglected in the gay and buoyant season of youth; and this fault, which is the parent of so much annoyance in after life, is but too generally overlooked by those whose duty it is to correct these incipient seeds of future mischief. no pursuit should be entered into by the young, without having some moral end in view, and this is especially needful to be observed in cases, where at first sight, it might appear a matter of indifference, whether the pursuit was one of utility, or of mere relaxation. we earnestly entreat our young friends, never to forget, that even our amusements may be rendered an acceptable sacrifice to their heavenly father, if they assiduously endeavor to make the habits they form in their seasons of relaxation from graver studies, conduce to the development of the higher faculties of their nature, and subordinate preparations for a more exalted state of being, than any which this transitory scene can of itself present to their contemplation and pursuits. dyer, speaking of tapestry, has beautifully said- "this bright art did zealous europe learn of pagan lands, while she assayed with rage of holy war to desolate their fields; but old the skill: long were the phrygian's pict'ring looms renown'd; tyre also, wealthy seat of art, excell'd, and elder sidon, in th' historic web." but we would have our fair friends to place before them a high and a definite object. let them seek, like the excellent miss linwood- "to raise at once our reverence and delight, to elevate the mind and charm the sight, to pour religion through the attentive eye, and waft the soul on wings of extacy; bid mimic art with nature's self to vie, and raise the spirit to its native sky." chapter ii. plain needlework. explanation of stitches. before commencing those directions, which we deem it necessary to place before our readers, in reference to this important portion of the work-table manual, we wish to say a word or two to our fair countrywomen, on the importance of a general and somewhat extensive acquaintance with those arts, on which so much of the comfort of individual and domestic life depends. economy of time, labor, and expenses, is an essential requisite in every family; and will ever claim a due share of attention, from her who is desirous of fulfilling with credit to herself and advantage to others, the allotted duties of her appointed station. to those, who are at the head of the majority of families, an extensive knowledge of the various departments of plain needlework is indispensable. the means placed at their disposal are limited; in many instances, extremely so: and to make the most of these means, generally provided by the continual care and unremitting attention of the father and the husband, is a sacred duty, which cannot be violated without the entailment of consequences which every well regulated mind must be anxious to avoid. the following are the principal stitches used in plain needlework. sewing and felling.--if you have selvages, join them together and sew them firmly. if you have raw edges, turn down one of the edges once, and the other double the breadth, and then turn half of it back again. this is for the fell. the two pieces are pinned face to face, and seamed together; the stitches being in a slanting direction, and just deep enough to hold the separate pieces firmly together. then flatten the seam with the thumb, turn the work over and fell it the same as hemming. the thread is fastened by being worked between the pieces and sewn over. hemmings.--turn down the raw edge as evenly as possible. flatten, and be careful, especially in turning down the corners. hem from right to left; bring the point of the needle from the chest toward the right hand. fasten the thread without a knot, and when you finish, sew several stitches close together, and cut off the thread. german hemming.--turn down both the raw edges once, taking care so to do it, as that both turns may be toward your person; you then lay one below the other, so as that the smooth edge of the nearest does not touch the other, but lies just beneath it. the lower one is then to be hemmed or felled to the piece against which you have laid it, still holding it before you. you are next to open your sleeve, or whatever else you have been employed upon; and laying the upper fold over the lower, fell it down, and the work is done. mantuamaker's hem.--you lay the raw edge of one of your pieces a little below the other; the upper edge is then turned over the other twice, and felled down as strong as possible. running.--take three threads, leave three, and in order that the work may be kept as firm as possible, back-stitch occasionally. if you sew selvages, they must be joined evenly together; but if raw edges, one must be turned down once, and the other laid upon it, but a few threads from the top. it is, in this case, to be felled afterwards. stitching.--the work must be even as possible. turn down a piece to stitch to, draw a thread to stitch upon, twelve or fourteen threads from the edge. being thus prepared, you take two threads back, and so bring, the needle out, from under two before. proceed in this manner, to the end of the row; and in joining a fresh piece of thread, take care to pass the needle between the edges and bring it out where the last stitch was finished. gathering.--you begin by taking the article to be gathered, and dividing it into halves, and then into quarters, putting on pins, to make the divisions. the piece, to which you are intending to gather it, must be gathered about twelve threads from the top, taking three threads on the needle, and leaving four; and so preceding, alternately, until one quarter is gathered. fasten the thread, by twisting it round a pin; stroke the gathers, so that they lie evenly and neatly, with a strong needle or pin. you then proceed as before, until all the gathers are gathered. then take out the pins, and regulate the gathers of each quarter, so as to correspond with those of the piece to which it is to be sewed. the gathers are then to be fastened on, one at a time; and the stitches must be in a slanting direction. the part to be gathered must be cut quite even before commencing, or else it will be impossible to make the gathering look well. double gathering, or puffing.--this is sometimes employed in setting on frills; and when executed properly has a pretty effect. you first gather the top, in the usual way; then, having stroked down the gathers, you gather again under the first gathering, and of such a depth as you wish the puffing to be. you then sew on the first gathering to the gown, frock, &c. you design to trim, at a distance, corresponding with the width of the puffing: and the second gathering sewed to the edge, so as to form a full hem. you may make a double hem, if you please, by gathering three times instead of only twice; and one of the hems may be straight, while the other is drawn to one side a little. this requires much exactness, in the execution; but if properly done, it gives a pleasing variety to the work. whipping.--you cut the edge smooth, and divide into halves and quarters, as for gathering. you then roll the muslin or other material very lightly upon the finger, making use of the left thumb for that purpose. the needle must go in on the outside, and be brought through, on the inside. the whipping-cotton should be as strong and even as possible. in order that the stitches may draw with ease, they must be taken with great care. the roll of the whip should be about ten threads. [illustration] button-hole stitch.--these should be cut by a thread, and their length should be that of the diameter of the button. in working, the button-hole must lie lengthways upon the forefinger; and you begin at the side which is opposite to the thumb, and the furthest from the point of the finger on which it is laid. the needle must go in on the wrong side, and be brought out on the right, five threads down. to make the stitch, the needle is passed through the loop before it is drawn close. in turning the corners, be careful not to do it too near; and in order that a proper thickness may be obtained, it is necessary that the needle should go in between every two threads. making button-holes, requires great care and attention. [illustration] fancy button-hole stitch.--this resembles a very wide button-hole stitch, and is very neat for the fronts of bodies, where it has a very pretty appearance; likewise for the bands and the shoulder bits, and above the broad hems and tucks of frocks. [illustration] chain stitch.--in making this stitch, you are to employ union cord, bobbin, or braid, whichever you think most suitable. make a knot at the end, and draw it through to the right side. while you put in the needle, let the end hang loose, and bring it out below, so as to incline a little towards the left hand. pass your needle over the cord, as you draw it out, and this will form a loop. in drawing out the mesh, you must be careful not to draw the stitch too tight, as that would destroy the effect. you proceed in the same manner to form the next, and each succeeding loop; taking care to put the needle in a little higher, and rather more to the right than in the preceding stitch, so that each loop begins within the lower part of the one going before it, and you thus produce the resemblance of a chain. [illustration] fancy chain stitch.--the only difference between this and the common chain stitch, is that very little of the cord is taken up on the needle at a time, and the stitches are far from each other. its appearance will be varied, according as you put in the needle, to slant little or much. if you should work it perfectly horizontal, it is the same as button-hole stitch. [illustration] herring-boning.--this is generally employed in articles composed of flannel, or other thick material. the edge is to be cut even, and turned down once. you work from left to right, thus: put your needle into the material, and take a stitch of two or three threads, as close as possible, under the raw edge, and bring the needle half way up that part which is turned down, and four or five threads toward the right hand; make another stitch, and bring down the needle; thus proceed until the work is finished. this stitch is something like the back-bone of a fish, and is sometimes used as an ornament for children's robes, and at the top of hems. it looks both neat and elegant, when carefully executed. [illustration] fancy herring-boning.--this is the same as common herring-bone, only it is done in a perpendicular manner, instead of being worked horizontally from left to right; and the thread is brought round behind the needle, so as to finish the work in a more elegant manner. it has an exceeding neat and pleasing look, when it is well executed, and is considered as highly ornamental, in appropriate situations. [illustration] angular stitch.--this stitch resembles button-hole stitch, only it is carried from right to left to form the pattern. it is a neat ornament for cuffs, skirts and capes, and children's pelisses. as much of its beauty depends on its regularity, care should be taken to make the patterns very even and straight, and of an equal width; without due attention to this, the work will be spoiled. [illustration] double herring-boning.--this pattern is a kind of double herring-bone, on each side; it is too intricate to describe minutely. the engraving will give a better idea of this stitch than any description we could give. great care being required to keep the pattern even, it is advisable to run a tacking thread down the middle of it, to serve as a guide. [illustration] horse-shoe stitch.--this is done with thick, loosely-twisted cotton, or bobbin, and is worked from left to right, as shown in the accompanying engraving. it has a very neat and pretty appearance, when worked near the edge of hems, robings, &c. [illustration] fancy bobbin edging.--this is formed by a succession of loops made in the following manner: make a knot at the end, and put the needle through to the right side, just below the hem. bring the bobbin over the hem, and, putting the needle in at the wrong side, bring it through to the right. draw the loop to the size you desire, pass the bobbin through it, and commence the next stitch, proceeding as before. chain stitch, on gathers.--this looks well, if worked in colored worsted, or in cord. two gathers are taken up for each stitch, taking care always to take one of the previous stitches and one new gather on the needle at the same time. [illustration] coral pattern.--this requires great accuracy in the working, and it is advisable for the inexperienced to run lines, in long stitches, to fix the middle and outsides of the pattern. it may be best understood by the engraving, merely observing that the stitch is begun on the left hand, and continued alternately from left to right, always pointing the needle toward the centre. it is very suitable for the waist-bands of children's frocks, the tops of broad hems, &c. [illustration] serpentine stitch.--this is exceedingly pretty, and is much employed for children's dresses. it is worked with the hand, being sewn on to the material when made. take the cord, knot it so as to form a loop at the end; then pass the other end through the loop, toward the front, to form another loop to the right hand; continue passing the bobbin through the loop on one side, then through the loop on the other, directing the cord so as to pass from the side of the work invariably towards the inner, or that part next the work. [illustration] biassing.--in this operation, the first part of the stitch is the same as gathering. you then stitch down; and upon the right side of the gather, you lay a thread a good deal thicker than the one you used for gathering thread. over this thread you sew, taking care to take hold also of the gathering thread. the needle is always to be pointed toward your chest. you may work two or three rows in this way, on the sleeves and shoulders of dresses, &c., which has a handsome effect. you must take great care to bring the needle out between each one of the gathers. [illustration] honey combing.--the material may be velvet, silk, &c.; and the mode of working is as follows: the piece you intend honey-combing, must be creased in regular folds, taking care that they are as even as possible. then make the folds lie closely together, by tacking them with a strong thread, and in long stitches. you then take silk of the right color; stitch together at equal and proper distances the two first folds, and proceed, with each succeeding two, in the same manner, only taking the stitches in the intermediate spaces. thus the stitches of each alternate row will correspond together. draw out the thread, when the work is finished, and on pulling it open, it will form diamonds on the right side. this work is proper for the inside of work-boxes, and is sometimes employed to ornament the tops of beds. it looks well, if carefully executed. a perfect acquaintance with these various stitches, will enable the practical needlewoman to pursue her occupation with ease and pleasure. chapter iii. plain needlework. instructions in the preparation of body linen. in order to secure economy of time, labor, and expense, and also to do everything neatly and in order, the lady who is intending to engage in the domestic employment of preparing linen necessary for personal and family use, should be careful to have all her materials ready, and disposed in the most systematic manner possible, before commencing work. the materials employed in the construction of articles, which come under the denomination of plain needlework, are so various, that a mere list of them would occupy more than half our space; and they are so well known, that no necessity exists for naming them in detail. we shall therefore proceed, at once, to give plain directions, by which any lady may soon become expert in this necessary department of household uses, merely observing, that a neat work-box, well supplied with all the implements required--including knife, scissors (of at least three sizes,) needles and pins in sufficient variety, bodkins, thimbles, thread and cotton, bobbins, marking silks, black lead pencils, india rubber, &c., should be provided, and be furnished with a lock and key, to prevent the contents being thrown into confusion by children, servants, or unauthorized intruders. the lady being thus provided, and having her materials, implements, &c., placed in order upon her work-table, (to the edge of which it is an advantage to have a pincushion affixed, by means of a screw,) may commence her work, and proceed with pleasure to herself, and without annoyance to any visitor, who may favor her with a call. we would recommend, wherever practicable, that the work-table should be made of cedar, and that the windows of the working parlor should open into a garden, well supplied with odoriferous flowers and plants, the perfume of which will materially cheer the spirits of those especially whose circumstances compel them to devote the greatest portion of their time to sedentary occupations. if these advantages cannot be obtained, at least the room should be well ventilated, and furnished with a few cheerful plants, and a well filled scent-jar. the beneficent creator intended all his children, in whatever station of life they might be placed, to share in the common bounties of his providence; and when she, who not for pleasure, but to obtain the means of subsistence, is compelled to seclude herself, for days or weeks together, from the cheering influence of exercise in the open air, it becomes both her duty, and that of those for whom she labors, to secure as much of these advantages, or of the best substitutes for them, as the circumstances of the case will admit. we now proceed to lay down what we hope will be found clear though concise rules, for the preparation of various articles of dress and attire. aprons.--these are made of a variety of materials, and are applied to various uses. the aprons used for common purposes, are made of white, blue, brown, checked, and sometimes of black linen; nankeen, stuff, and print, are also employed. the width is generally one breadth of the material, and the length is regulated by the height of the wearer. dress aprons are, of course, made of finer materials--cambric, muslin, silk, satin, lace, clear and other kinds of muslin, &c., and are generally two breadths in width, one of which is cut in two, so as to throw a seam on each side, and leave an entire breadth for the middle. aprons of all kinds are straight, and either plaited or gathered on to the band or stock at the top. those with only one breadth, are hemmed at the bottom with a broad hem; those with two breadths, must be hemmed at the sides likewise. the band should be from half a nail to a nail broad; its length is to be determined by the waist of the wearer. it should be fastened at the back, with hooks and eyelet holes. to some aprons, pockets are attached, which are either sewed on in front, or at the back, and a slit made in the apron to correspond with them. the slit, or opening of the pocket is to be hemmed neatly, or braided, as may be most desirable. in some kinds of aprons, bibs are introduced, which are useful to cover the upper part of the dress. their size must be determined by the taste of the person who is to wear them. dress aprons.--take two breadths of any material you choose, dividing one of them in the middle. hem all round, with a broad hem, three-fourths of a nail deep. the band is to be one and a-half nails deep in the middle, into which a piece of whalebone is to be inserted, on each side of which work a row or two in chain stitch. the band is scolloped out from the centre on its lower side, five and a-half nails, leaving the extremities of the band one nail broad. to the scolloped portion, the apron is to be fulled on, so as to sit as neat as possible; leaving the space beneath the whalebone plain. confine the folds, by working two rows of chain stitch, just below the curved lines of the band, leaving half an inch between each row. the lower edge of the band is ornamented with a small piping, but is left plain at the top. vandyke apron.--this may be made either of silk or muslin. the edge of the apron is to be turned down, once all round, on the right side, to the depth of three-quarters of a nail; and the vandykes are formed by running from the edge of the apron to near the rough edge of the material, which is afterward to be turned in. when the vandykes are completed, they are to be turned inside out, and made as smooth as possible. a braid, or a row of tent stitch, on the right side, over the stitches, is a pretty finish. in setting on the band, the plaits must be placed opposite each other, so as to meet in the middle. you may line the band with buckram, or stiff muslin, and ornament it with piping if you please. apron for a young person.--clear muslin is the best material. hem round with a hem, three-fourths of a nail deep; lay all round, within the hem, a shawl bordering, not quite so broad as the hem. of course, the latter must be taken off before washing. a morning apron.--this may be made like the last, but instead of the shawl bordering, surround the outer edge of the hem by a deep crimped frill, a nail in breadth. the material most in use, is jacconet or cambric muslin: the frill, of lawn or cambric, which you please. girl's apron.--use any material that is deemed advisable. the bib is to be made to fit the wearer, in front, between the shoulders, and sloping to the waist. the apron is to be gathered, or plaited to the band; and the shoulder straps may be of the same material, or of ribbon. the bib, either plain or ornamented, with tucks or folds, as may be deemed most suitable. bathing gown.--the materials employed are various, flannels, stuff, or calamanca, are the most preferable, giving free ingress to the water. the length must be determined by the height of the wearer, and the width at the bottom should be about fifteen nails. it should be folded as you would a pinafore, and to be sloped three and three-quarters nails for the shoulder. the slits for the arm-holes must be three nails and three-quarters long, and the sleeves are to be set in plain: the length of the latter is not material. it is useful to have a slit of three inches, in front of each. the gown is to have a broad hem at the bottom, and to be gathered into a band at the top, which is to be drawn tight with strings; the sleeves are to be hemmed and sewn round the arm or wrist, in a similar manner. bustles.--these are worn, to make the waist of the gown sit neat upon the person. they are made the width of the material, and eight nails deep. the piece is to be so doubled as to make two flounces; one four nails and a half and the other three and a-half deep. a case, to admit of tapes, is to be made one nail from the top, and the bottom of each flounce is to have a thick cord hemmed into it. when worn, the article is turned inside out. the materials are strong jean, or calico. caps.--these are made of a great variety of patterns, and the materials are as various as the purposes to which the article is applied. muslins of various kinds, lawn, net, lace, and calico, are all in request; and the borders are extremely various. muslin, net, or lace, being those most in common use. the shapes are so multifarious, as to preclude us from giving any specific directions. every lady must choose her own pattern, as best suits the purpose she has in view. the patterns should be cut in paper, and considerable care is requisite, in cutting out, not to waste the material. a little careful practice will soon make this department familiar to the expert votaress of the needle. child's collar.--this is made of double irish linen, and is stitched round and made to fall over the dress. frills are generally attached to them, and give them a pretty finish. they are proper for children, of eight or nine years of age. cravats.--these are of fine muslin, and are made in the shape of a half handkerchief. they are hemmed with a narrow hem, and should be cut from muslin, eighteen nails square. cloaks.--these useful and necessary articles of dress are generally made up by a dress-maker; it is unnecessary therefore to give particular directions concerning them. the materials are silks and stuffs, of almost every variety, including satin, merino cloth, real and imitation shawling plaids, and orleans. the latter is now very generally used. travelling cloaks are made of a stronger material, and are trimmed in a much plainer style than those used in walking dresses. satin cloaks look well with velvet collars, and are also frequently trimmed with the same material. merino, and also silk cloaks, are often trimmed with fur, or velvet, and lined with the same. sometimes they are made perfectly plain. the lining of a silk or satin cloak, should be of the same color, or else a well-chosen contrast; and care should be taken, that the color should be one that is not liable to fade, or to receive damage. an attention to these general remarks, will be found of much advantage to the lady who, in making her purchase is desirous of combining elegance of appearance with durability of wear, and economy of price. frills.--these are used as ornaments, or a finish to various articles of dress. the materials are cambric muslin, lace, net, &c., and the manner in which they are made is various. sometimes they are set on quite plain, that is, hemmed round and plaited up into neat folds, to the width required. at other times, frills are fitted to a band, and the edge that is to be hemmed, is stiffened by rolling it over a bobbin; it is put on as an ornament to a gown, and is tied with strings at the end. crimped frills are worn by young children, and look extremely neat. they are made of lawn or cambric, and sewed on to a band. the other edge is hemmed, and the frill is double the size round the neck. the band should be half a nail in depth, and the frill is to be crimped as evenly as possible. gentlemen's belts.--these are worn by persons who have much and violent exercise, and are extremely useful. they are made of strong jean or other material, and sometimes of leather, and may either be made straight, or a little slant, or peaked. runners of cotton are inserted, to make them more strong, and they must be furnished with long straps of webbing at the ends, sewed on with leather over them. the straps are about three inches in depth. gentlemen's collars.--these are very generally worn, and are shaped in a variety of ways. they are made double, and ornamented with a single or double row of back stitch. they are made to button round the neck, or are set on to a band for that purpose. it is best to cut the pattern in paper, and when a good fit is obtained, cut the cloth by the paper model. gentlemen's fronts.--the material is fine lawn or cambric. sometimes the sides are composed of the former, and the middle of the latter. a false hem is made down the middle, furnished with buttons, as if to open; the neck is hollowed to the depth of a nail, and is plaited or gathered into a stock or band. in order that it may sit neat upon the bosom, two neck gussets are introduced. ladies' drawers.--choose any proper material, and form the article by making two legs, set on to a band to fasten round the waist. set on a plain or worked frill at the bottom. when setting the legs on to the band, place them so as to overlap each other. the band is eleven nails long, and three deep. ladies' flannel waistcoat.--this is, in many cases, an indispensable article of female attire. for an ordinary size, you must take a piece of flannel twelve nails wide, and seven deep, folding it exactly in the middle. at two nails from the front, which is doubled, the arm holes must be cut, leaving two nails for half of the back. the front is to be slightly hollowed. at the bottom, cut a slit of three nails, immediately under the arm holes; insert a gore three nails broad, and the same in length, and terminating in a point. bosom-gores are also to be introduced of a similar shape, and just half the size. they are to be put in just one nail from the shoulder-strap. in making the waistcoat, it is to be herring-boned all round, as are also all the gores and slits. a broad tape, one nail in width, is laid down each side of the front, in which the button holes are made, and buttons set on; the shoulder-straps are of tape, and the waistcoat fastens in front. ladies' night jackets.--the materials are various, including lawn, linen, and calico. the jackets are made of two breadths, and as it is desirable not to have a seam in the shoulder, the two breadths should be cut in one length, and carefully doubled in the middle. the neck is to be slit open, leaving three nails on each side for the shoulders; and a slit is also to be made in front, so as to allow the garment to pass freely over the head of the wearer; the sides are then to be seamed up, leaving proper slits for the arm holes; and the neck and bosom are to be hemmed as neatly as possible. the sleeves are to be made the required length, and gathered into a band at the wrist, after being felled into the arm holes mentioned above. a neat frill round the neck, bosom, and wrists, finishes the whole. night gowns.--these must be made of a size suitable for the wearer. the following are directions for three different sizes. the length of the gown on the skirts is one yard and a half for the first size, one yard and six nails for the second, and one yard and three nails for the third; the width of the material is eighteen, sixteen, and fourteen nails, respectively; and the garment is to have one yard and a half breadth in width. they are to be crossed so as to be at the bottom twenty-one, eighteen, and sixteen, nails: and at the top, fifteen, fourteen, and twelve nails, as the sizes may require. the length of the sleeves is nine, eight, and seven nails, and the width half a breadth; they are to be furnished with gussets, three, two, and two nails square, and with wristbands of the proper width, and of any depth that is deemed desirable. a binder of one nail and a half is put down the selvage of each sleeve, which strengthens it much. the gown is furnished with a collar about three nails deep, and of the length required by the wearer; and, in order that it may fit properly, neck gussets of two, one, and one nail square, are to be introduced. a slit of about six nails is made in front, which is hemmed round, and the space left for the shoulders is three, two and a-half and two nails, respectively. the whole is finished with a neat frill round the collar and wristbands. if economy is an object, cut three gowns together. this will prevent much waste of material; an object, by every head of a family, to be constantly kept in view. neck and pocket handkerchiefs.--these are made of a great variety of materials, as silk, muslin, cambric, lawn, and net. the neck handkerchiefs are generally a half square, and are hemmed all round. it is a good plan to turn up the extreme corners, as it makes it more strong and durable. a tape is set on, which comes 'round the waist, and ties in front. sometimes a broad muslin hem is put on the two straight sides, which looks extremely well. some ladies work a border to their neck handkerchief, which gives to those made of net the appearance of lace. pocket handkerchiefs are neatly hemmed, and sometimes have a worked border. those used by gentlemen are of a larger size than those of ladies. petticoats (flannel).--these are not only useful, but indispensable articles of dress. fine flannel is the best, as it is most durable, and keeps its color best in washing. the length of the petticoat is regulated by the height of the person for whom it is intended; and the width ranges from three breadths to one and a-half. the bottom is hemmed with a broad hem; and the top is gathered, and set on to a strong band of calico, or jean, leaving the front nearly plain. sometimes a button hole is made, about two nails from the ends of the band, to which strings of tape are attached; these are passed through the opposite holes, and the parts thus brought over each other form a kind of bustle, which makes the garment sit more neatly to the figure. a slit of about four nails is left on the back which is hemmed round, or bound with a strong binding. petticoats are worn under the dress for the sake of warmth, and also to make the gown hang more gracefully upon the person. they should have three or three and a-half breadths of the material in the width, and the bottom is made with a broad hem three nails deep, or with tucks or worked muslin. the latter is extremely neat. they are to be set on to a strong band, or stock, and are to have a slit left at the back about four nails in length. the skirt may be gathered full all round, or only at the back and front, leaving the sides plain; sometimes all the fulness is thrown to the back. having shoulder-straps to keep up the petticoat, is a great advantage; but they are unnecessary if a waist, or body with or without sleeves, be set on the band. in this case the body should be made to fit as tight to the person as possible. the band is generally about one nail in breadth. the materials proper for petticoats are dimity, calico, cambric, jacconet muslin, calamanca, stuff, &c. what are called middle, or under petticoats, are made in the same manner. those ladies who pursue the laudable practice of nursing their own infants, and who wear petticoats with bodies to them, have them open in front. pinafore.--this is a useful article of dress, especially in large families. holland is the best material. for an open one, one breadth is sufficient. double the pinafore into four, and cut the arm holes to the required depth in the two side folds, so that half will form the front. the neck is to be hollowed out about a quarter of a nail in the middle, and the pinafore is to be set on to the neck band, which fastens by a button behind. sleeve lappets are attached to the arm holes, being gathered near the edge, and set on before the arm hole is hemmed, so that when the edge is turned down no stitches will appear. the lappet is a second time to be gathered at the edge, and sewed down as fast as possible. then hem the other edge, and conceal the stitches with silk braid that will wash. a small gusset put into the bottom of the slits is an advantage, as it makes it stronger. they are to be fastened round the waist with a band, or with a strap and buckle. the latter is most to be preferred. for a close pinafore, two breadths of holland, or other material, will be required. it is seamed up at the sides, leaving slits for the arm holes, and has a collar and sleeves; as also a band to go round the middle of the wearer. neck gussets may be introduced, but the much neater way is, to double the pinafore into four, and let in a piece at each shoulder, about a nail wide, and two nails in length, gathering each quarter from the arm holes, into the pieces so let in, and felling similar pieces on the inside of the shoulder. the two middle quarters are to be gathered into half the collar, and the back in the same manner. the sleeves are made with gussets like a shirt, and are gathered into the arm holes. a slit is made at the hands, and the bottom is gathered into a wristband about an inch in breadth. pockets.--these are made of any kind of material you please. you take a piece of double, and cut it to the shape required. stitch the two pieces neatly round, a little distance from the edge. then turn it, and let the seam be well flattened, and back stitch with white silk a quarter of an inch from the edge; cut a slit down about four nails, which is to be either hemmed, or have a tape laid round it on the inside. set on the strings, and the pocket is complete. some ladies have pockets attached to the petticoat. in that case, it is only a square of calico, about ten nails long, and eight broad, set on to the inside of the petticoat, as plain as possible. a ribbon scarf.--this is made of broad satin ribbon, and must not be less than two nails and a half wide: its length is two yards and three quarters. the ribbon is to be doubled on the wrong side, and run in a slanting direction so as to cause it to fall gracefully on the neck. the ends are to be embroidered and ornamented with braid, or left plain, as may suit the fancy. the scarf is to be surrounded by an edging of swan's down. this is an elegant article of female attire. plain scarf.--this is generally made of net, the whole breadth, and two yards and a half long. it is hemmed all round with a broad hem so as to admit a ribbon to be run in, which gives it a neat and finished appearance. an indian scarf.--this is an elegant article of dress and can be easily made. the material is a rich cashmere, and three colors are required: that is, black, scarlet, and a mazarine blue. you must have the scarf four nails and a half in width, and one yard and six nails in length: this must be black. then you must have of the other two colors, pieces seven nails long, and the same width as the black, and you are, after finding the exact middle of the black stripe, to slope off one nail and a half toward each side, and then slope one end of the blue and of the scarlet piece, so as to make them accord precisely with the ends of the black previously prepared. you are to cut one nail and a half from the middle to the ends. you are then to split the blue and the scarlet stripes down the middle, and join half of the one to the half of the other, as accurately, as possible. the pieces thus joined together are to be sewed to the black stripe, and the utmost care must be taken to make the points unite properly. you are to sew the pieces fast together, and herring-bone them all round on the right side. you finish by laying a neat silk gimp all round and over all the joinings. it should be of a clear, bright color. the ends are to be fringed with scarlet and blue, to correspond with the two half stripes. this is suitable for a walking dress, or an evening party. a dress shawl.--take a half square of one yard and twelve nails of satin velvet or plush, which you please, and line it with sarcenet either white, or colored; trim the two straight edges with a hem of either silk or satin, from one to one nail and a half in breadth, and cut crossway. or you may trim it with fur, lace, or fringe. cashmere shawl.--you will require for the centre a piece of colored cashmere, one yard six nails square, which is to be hemmed round with a narrow hem. you must then take four stripes all of cashmere, or of a shawl bordering to harmonize or contrast well with the centre, which must be hemmed on both sides, and then sewed on, so as that the stitches may appear as little as possible. the border should be three nails broad, and of course joined point to point at the corners; and it must be so set on as that the two corners shall fall properly over each other. the shawl is finished by a fringe set on all round, and sometimes by a colored gimp laid on over the joinings. a lady's walking shawl.--this may be made of cloth, merino, or silk; and either a whole, or half square, at pleasure. the dimensions are one yard and twelve nails, and the lining is of silk. in order that when the shawl is doubled the hems of both folds may appear at the same time, care must be taken, after laying on the border on two successive sides, to turn the shawl, and then lay on the remainder of the border. the trimmings for these kind of shawls are of great variety. a travelling shawl.--this is easily made, and is very warm and convenient. take a square of wadding, and double it cornerways; cover it with muslin, or silk, and trim it as you please. mourning shawls.--these may be made either of half a square of black silk, entirely covered with crape, which is proper for deep mourning, or you may take half a square of rich and rather dull black silk, and border it with a hem of crape, two nails deep, laid on upon the two straight sides of the shawl. shifts.--these are generally made of fine irish, or calico. they are made either with gores, or crossed. the latter is the neatest method. two breadths are sufficient for a full sized shift, and gores are cut off a given width at the bottom, and extending to a point, in order to widen the garment. in crossing a shift, you first sew the long seams; then you double it in a slanting direction, so as to mark off at the top and bottom ten nails at opposite corners; this done, you join the narrow ends together, and sew the cross seams, leaving a sufficient slit for the arm holes. there are various methods of cutting the back and bosom. some cut out a scollop both before and behind; but in this case, the back is hollowed out one third less than the front. some ladies hollow out the back, but form the bosom with a flap, which may be cut either straight, or in a slanting direction from the shoulders. another method of forming the bosom is by cutting the shoulder-straps separate from the shift, and making the top quite straight; bosom gores are then let in, in front; the top is hemmed both before and behind, and a frill gives a neat finish to the whole. the sleeves may be either set in plain or full, as suits the taste of the wearer. sometimes the sleeve and gusset are all in one piece; at other times they are separate. in all cases, great care should be taken in cutting out, not to waste the material. for this purpose it is always advisable to cut out several at one time. shifts for young children of from five to ten years of age, are generally made with flaps both before and behind. this is decidedly the neatest shape for them. the bottom, in all cases, should be hemmed with a broad hem. shirts.--these are generally made of linen; but calico is also made use of. the degree of fineness must be determined by the occupation and station of the wearer. a long piece of linen will, if cut with care, make several shirts of an ordinary man's size. in cutting, you must take a shirt of the required dimensions, as a pattern; and, by it, measure the length of several bodies, not cutting any but the last. then cut off the other bodies; and from the remainder, cut off the sleeves, binders, gussets, &c., measuring by the pattern. bosom-pieces, falls, collars, &c., must be fitted, and cut by a paper or other pattern, which suits the person for whom the articles are intended. in making up, the bodies should be doubled, so as to leave the front flap one nail shorter than that behind. then, marking off the spaces for the length of the flaps and arm holes, sew up the seams. the bosom-slit is five nails, and three nails is the space left for the shoulders. the space for the neck will be nine nails. one breadth of the cloth makes the sleeves, and the length is from nine to ten nails. the collar, and the wristbands, are made to fit the neck and wrists, and the breadths are so various, that no general rule can be given. you make the binders, or linings, about twelve nails in length, and three in breadth; and the sleeve gussets are three; the neck gusset, two; the flap gussets, one; and the bosom gusset, half a nail square. the work, or stitches, introduced into the collar, wristbands, &c., are to be regulated according to the taste of the maker, or the wearer. gentlemen's night shirts are made in a similar manner, only they are larger. the cloth recommended to be used, is that kind of linen which is called shirting-width. where a smaller size is required, a long strip will cut off from the width, which will be found useful for binders, wristbands, &c. veils.--these are made of net, gauze, or lace, and are plain or worked, as suits the taste of the wearer. white veils are generally of lace: mourning ones are made of black crape. the jet-black is to be preferred, as it wears much better than the kind termed blue-black. colored veils look well with a satin ribbon of the same color, about a nail deep, put on as a hem all round. for white ones, a ribbon of a light color is preferable, as it makes a slight contrast. a crape, or gauze veil, is hemmed round; that at the bottom being something broader than the rest. all veils have strings run in at the top, and riding ones are frequently furnished with a ribbon at the bottom, which enables the wearer to obtain the advantage of a double one, by tying the second string round her bonnet, where she is desirous to screen her eyes from the sun and dust, and at the same time to enjoy the advantage of a cool and refreshing breeze. demi-veils are short veils, fulled all round the bonnet, but most at the ears, which makes them fall more gracefully. it is advisable to take them up a little at the ears, so as not to leave them the full depth: without this precaution, they are liable to appear unsightly and slovenly. chapter iv. plain needlework. instructions in the preparation of house linen. bed-room linen.--this includes quilts, blankets, sheets, pillow covers, towels, table covers, and pincushion covers. quilts.--these are of various sizes and qualities, in accordance with the purposes to which they are to be applied. they are generally made of the outside material and the lining, (wadding or flannel being laid between,) and stitched in diamonds or other devices. the stitches must pass through the whole, and the edges of the quilt are to be secured by a binding proper for the purpose. they are best done in a frame. blankets.--these are bought ready prepared for use. it is sometimes advisable to work over the edges at the end, which should be done with scarlet worsted in a very wide kind of button-hole stitch. sheets.--these are made of fine linen, coarse linen, and calico. linen sheets are in general to be preferred. the seam up the middle must be sewed as neat as possible, and the ends may either be hemmed or seamed: the latter is the preferable method. sheets, and all bed-room linen, should be marked and numbered. to add the date of the year is also an advantage. pillow covers.--these are made of fine or coarse linen, and sometimes of calico. the material should be of such a width as to correspond with the length of the pillow. one yard and three nails, doubled and seamed up, is the proper size. one end is seamed up, and the other hemmed with a broad hem, and furnished with strings or buttons, as is deemed most convenient. we think the preferable way of making pillow covers is to procure a material of a sufficient width when doubled, to admit the pillow. the selvages are then sewn together, and the ends seamed and hemmed, as before directed. bolster covers are made in nearly the same manner, only a round patch is let into one end, and a tape slot is run into the other. towels.--towels are made of a diaper or huckaback, of a quality adapted to the uses to which they are applicable. they should be one yard long, and about ten or twelve nails wide. the best are bought single, and are fringed at the ends. others are neatly hemmed, and sometimes have a tape loop attached to them, by which they can be suspended against a wall. dressing table covers.--these may be made of any material that is proper for the purpose. fine diaper generally, but sometimes dimity and muslin are employed, or the table is covered with a kind of marseilles quilting which is prepared expressly for the purpose. sometimes the covers are merely hemmed round, but they look much neater if fringed, or bordered with a moderately full frill. sometimes a worked border is set on. all depends upon taste and fancy. a neat and genteel appearance in accordance with the furniture of the apartment, should be especially regarded. pincushion covers.--a large pincushion, having two covers belonging to it, should belong to each toilet table. the covers are merely a bag into which the cushion is slipped. they may be either worked or plain, and should have small tassels at each corner, and a frill or fringe all round. table linen.--this department of plain needlework comprises table cloths, dinner napkins, and large and small tray napkins. table cloths.--these may be purchased either singly or cut from the piece. in the latter case, the ends should be hemmed as neatly as possible. dinner napkins.--these are of various materials; if cut from the piece, they must be hemmed at the ends the same as table cloths. large and small tray napkins, and knife-box cloths, are made in the same manner. the hemming of all these should be extremely neat. it is a pretty and light employment for very young ladies; and in this way habits of neatness and usefulness may be formed, which will be found very beneficial in after life. pantry linen.--in this department you will have to prepare pantry cloths, dresser cloths, plate basket cloths, china, glass, and lamp cloths, and aprons. pantry knife-cloths should be of a strong and durable material. the dresser cloths, or covers, look neat and are useful. they are generally made of huckaback of moderate fineness; but some ladies prefer making them of a coarser kind of damask. the plate basket cloth is a kind of bag, which is put into the plate basket to prevent the side from becoming greased or discolored. they are made of linen, which is well fitted to the sides, and a piece the size and shape of the bottom of the basket, is neatly seamed in. the sides are made to hang over the basket, and are drawn round the rim by a tape, run into a slit for that purpose. china cloths, and also glass cloths, are to be made of fine soft linen, or diaper; and the cloths used in cleaning lamps, &c., must be of flannel, linen, or silk. all these articles are to be made in the same manner, that is, hemmed neatly at the ends; or if there be no selvages, or but indifferent ones, all round. nothing looks more slovenly than ragged or unhemmed cloths, which are for domestic use. little girls of the humbler classes might be employed by the more affluent, in making up those articles and a suitable remuneration be given them. they would thus become more sensible of the value of time, and would contract habits of industry, which would be of essential service to them in the more advanced stages of their progress through life. a fair price paid for work done, either by a child or an adult, is far preferable to what is called charity. it at once promotes industry, and encourages a spirit of honest independence, which is far removed from unbecoming pride, as it is from mean and sneaking servility. benevolence is the peculiar glory of woman; and we hope that all our fair readers will ever bear in mind, that real benevolence will seek to enable the objects of its regard to secure their due share of the comforts of life, by the honest employment of those gifts and talents, with which providence may have endowed them. housemaid and kitchen linen.--the next subject to which the attention of the votress of plain needlework ought to be directed, is the preparation of housemaid and kitchen linen. on these subjects, a very few general observations will be all that is necessary. in the housemaid's department, paint cloths, old and soft, and chamber-bottle cloths, fine and soft, are to be provided. to these must be added, dusters, flannels for scouring, and chamber bucket cloths, which last should be of a kind and color different from any thing else. all these must be neatly hemmed and run, or seamed, if necessary. nothing in a well directed family should bear the impress of neglect, or be suffered to assume an untidy appearance. clothes bags of different sizes, should also be provided, of two yards in length, and either one breadth doubled, in which case only one seam will be required; or of two breadths, which makes the bag more suitable for large articles of clothing. these bags are to seamed up neatly at the bottom, and to have strings which will draw, run in at the top. the best material is canvas, or good, strong unbleached linen. in the kitchen department, you will require both table and dresser cloths; which should be made as neat as possible. long towels, of good linen, and of a sufficient length, should be made, to hang on rollers; they are generally a full breadth, so that hemming the sides is unnecessary. they should be two yards long, when doubled, and the ends should be secured strongly and neatly together. if the selvage is bad, the best way is to hem it at once. kitchen dusters, tea cloths, and knife cloths, may be made of any suitable material; but in all cases let the edges be turned down, and neatly sewed or overcast. pudding cloth.--this should be made of coarse linen, neatly hemmed round, furnished with strings of strong tape, and marked. jelly bag.--this is made of a half square, doubled so as to still form a half square. the top must be hemmed, and be furnished with three loops, by which it is to be suspended from the frame when in use. some miscellaneous instructions, which could not otherwise be introduced, are to be found in the concluding chapter. chapter v. plain needlework. miscellaneous instructions. binding.--various kinds of work have binding set on to them in preference to hemming them, or working them in herring-bone stitch. flannel is generally bound; sometimes with a thin tape, made for that purpose, and called "flannel binding." it is also common to bind flannel with sarcenet ribbon. the binding is so put on, as to show but little over the edge on the right side, where it is hemmed down neatly; on the other side, it is run on with small stitches. braiding.--silk braid looks pretty, and is used for a variety of purposes. in putting it on, it is best to sew it with silk drawn out of the braid, as it is a better match, and the stitches will be less perceived. marking.--it is of essential importance that cloths should be marked and numbered. this is often done with ink, but as some persons like to mark with silk, we shall describe the stitch. two threads are to be taken each way of the cloth, and the needle must be passed three ways, in order that the stitch may be complete. the first is aslant from the person, toward the right hand; the second is downward, toward you: and the third is the reverse of the first, that is, aslant from you toward the left hand. the needle is to be brought out at the corner of the stitch, nearest to that you are about to make. the shapes of the letters or figures can be learnt from an inspection of any common sampler. piping.--this is much used in ornamenting children's and other dresses. it is made by inclosing a cord, of the proper thickness, in a stripe of silk, cut the cross-way, and must be put on as evenly as possible. plaiting.--the plaits must be as even as it is possible to place them, one against another. in double plaiting they lie both ways, and meet in the middle. tucks.--these require to be made even. you should have the breadth of the tuck, and also the space between each, notched on a card. they look the best run on with small and regular stitches. you must be careful to take a back-stitch constantly, as you proceed. making buttons.--cover the wire with a piece of calico, or other material of the proper size; turn in the corners neatly, and work round the wire in button-hole stitch; work the centre like a star. some may think that we have been too minute; but we were desirous to omit nothing that could be generally useful; and we have had regard also to those ladies who, having been under no necessity of practising plain needlework in their earlier years, are desirous of preparing articles for their humbler fellow creatures, or by the sale of which, they procure more ample supplies for the funds of charity. we have good reason to believe, that many well-disposed persons would be glad, in this way, to aid the cause of humanity--and to devote a portion of their leisure hours to the augmenting of the resources of benevolence--but they are destitute of the practical experience necessary to enable them to do so. to all such, we hope our little manual will be an acceptable offering, and enable them, by a judicious employment of the means and talents committed to their trust, to realize the truth of the saying of the wise man, "there is that scattereth and yet increaseth." diagram. ___________________________________________________ | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 | 46 | 47 | 48 | 49 | 50 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 51 | 52 | 53 | 54 | 55 | 56 | 57 | 58 | 59 | 60 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 61 | 62 | 63 | 64 | 65 | 66 | 67 | 68 | 69 | 70 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 71 | 72 | 73 | 74 | 75 | 76 | 77 | 78 | 79 | 80 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 81 | 82 | 83 | 84 | 85 | 86 | 87 | 88 | 89 | 90 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| | 91 | 92 | 93 | 94 | 95 | 96 | 97 | 98 | 99 |100 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| |101 |102 |103 |104 |105 |106 |107 |108 |109 |110 | |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| |111 |112 |113 |114 |115 |116 |117 |118 |119 |120 | --------------------------------------------------in order to render the elementary stitches of fancy needle-work as easy of acquirement as possible, we subjoin the following diagram; any lady will thus be able to form the various stitches, by simply taking a piece of canvas, and counting the corresponding number of threads, necessary to form a square like the diagram; she will perceive the lines represent the threads of the canvas, the squares numbered being the holes formed by the intersection of the threads; and following the directions given in the accompanying chapter, she will soon be able to work any patterns here exhibited, and such new ones as her inventive genius may lead her to design. chapter vi. fancy needlework. explanation of stitches. the art of fancy needlework is closely allied to the sister ones of painting and design; and appears to have been well understood amongst the most polished nations of antiquity. we know that the art was practised with considerable success, by the babylonians, egyptians, persians, and arabians, as well as by the greeks and romans. the jews brought the art of needlework with them, out of egypt, as we learn from the directions for building the tabernacle, and preparing the holy garments; and sidon is celebrated for the rich wares of broidered cloths, in which part of her extensive traffic consisted. in more modern times, we find the fair hands of the ladies of europe employed in depicting the events of history, in tapestry, of which the much celebrated bayeux tapestry--supposed to have been wrought by matilda, the beloved wife of william the norman--detailing the various occurrences in the life of harold, from his arrival in normandy, to the fatal battle of hastings, is a standing proof. ladies of high rank employed themselves thus, for various purposes, previous to the reformation; and it is a fact, worthy of especial notice, that in those ages, when it has been required for the adornment of the temples, and the encouragement of honorable valor and has thus become associated with the sanctifying influences of religion and manly virtue, it has flourished most.[64-*] queen adelicia, wife of henry i.; ann, queen of france; catherine, of aragon; lady jane grey; mary queen of scots; and queen elizabeth, all excelled in this delightful art. at the reformation, or soon after that event, needlework began sensibly to decline, and continued to do so, until the commencement of the present century. at that time, a new and elevated development of mind began to appear, which was accompanied by a very visible advancement in every department of arts and sciences. this revival of the fine arts, like the mental and sacred gushing forth of mind, which gave it birth, was often in extremely bad taste; but as the latter becomes more purified and exalted, the former advances in improvement--mind asserts its superiority over matter, and infuses into the useful and ornamental, a living spirit of moral affection and enlightened sentiment. the year 1800 gave to the world, the celebrated berlin patterns; but it was not until a lapse of thirty years, that their merits became generally appreciated; but now, such is the perfection attained in the cultivation of the art of needlework, that some of its productions, for delicacy and expression, may almost bear comparison with painting in oil. [illustration] tent stitch.--work the cross way of the canvas, bringing your needle up through the diagram, no. 2 down 11, one stitch; up 3 down 12, up 4 down 13, and so continue to the end. this stitch is proper for grounding, and for groups of flowers; but in the latter case, it will produce the best effect if the flowers are done in tent stitch, and the grounding in tent cross stitch (which is the same as tent stitch, only crossed.) [illustration] cross stitch.--is the same as marking stitch; bring your needle up 21 down 3, up 23 down 1, one stitch, up 41 down 23, up 43 down 21, and so continue till your work is finished. all the stitches must incline to the right, or the work will appear imperfect and unsightly. [illustration] double cross stitch.--this is a stitch very easy of execution. bring your needle up no. 41, over four threads, down 5, up 1 down 45, up 43 down 25, up 3 down 25, up 3 down 21, up 43 down 21, one stitch. four, six, or eight threads may be taken in depth, and two in width, according as taste may suggest. this is an admirable stitch for large pieces of work. gold thread introduced between each row is a desirable addition to its attractive beauty. [illustration] straight cross stitch.--this is a new invention, and has a pretty appearance. bring your needle up no. 11 down 13, up 2 down 22, one stitch; up 31 down 33, up 22 down 42, and so on in like manner, till the work is finished. [illustration] double straight cross stitch.--bring your needle up no. 3 down 43, up 21 down 25, up 14 down 32, up 12 down 34, one stitch. owing to the number of times the wool is crossed, each stitch has a very bead-like appearance. a piece wholly worked in this, has an admirable effect. [illustration] gobelin stitch.--this truly beautiful stitch is especially calculated for working on canvas traced with flowers, leaves, &c.; and also for working designs, copied from oil paintings. bring your needle up no. 2 down 21, one stitch, up 3 down 22, up 4 down 23, and so on to the end of the row. the stitches may be taken either in height or width, as may best accord with the taste, or with the subject represented. [illustration] basket stitch.--this is the same as irish stitch, but the arrangement is different. work three stitches over two threads; these are called short stitches; and then the long ones are formed by working three over six threads, the centre of which are the two on which the short stitches were worked. thus you must continue the short and long stitches alternately, until you have finished the row. in the next, the long stitches must come under the short ones; and this diversity must be kept up until all the rows are completed. to finish the pattern, you have only to run a loose film of wool under the long stitches on each of the short ones, and the task is done. [illustration] irish stitch.--this is the production of an irish lady of high rank. bring your needle up no. 1 over four threads down 41, one stitch back two threads, up 22 down 62, up 43 (observe this is in a line with 41) down 83, up 64 (in a line with 62) down 104, up 102 down 62, up 81 down 41, continuing thus over the square. the spaces left between every other stitch must be filled up with half stitches; for instance, up 81 down 101, up 83 down 103. it is also sometimes worked covering six and eight threads of the canvas at a time, coming back three or four threads, in the same proportion as the directions given. this stitch is proper for grounding, when the design is worked in tent or cross stitch; and the effect would be heightened by two strongly contrasted shades of the same color. it can be applied to a great variety of devices, diamonds and vandykes for example, and many others which will suggest themselves to the fair votaries of this delightful art. it looks pretty, and is easy of execution. [illustration] feather stitch.--this, as its name implies, has a light and feathery appearance, and will be found proper for any work in which lightness should predominate. you must proceed as in tent stitch, and work over twelve threads or less, but not more; then bring your needle out one thread below, and cross on each side of your straight stitch: you must so continue, taking care to drop a thread in height and keeping the bottom even with the long stitch with which you began. thus proceed until you have ten threads on the cross, which will make a square: of course you must, in the same manner, form all the squares necessary to complete the row. you can vary the pattern considerably by making the edges irregular, which is done by lowering your slant stitches, the first one two, and the next one thread, and so proceeding. this will, in our opinion, improve the appearance of the work. you can introduce as many shades as you please, only taking care that a proper contrast is duly preserved. you finish by stitching up the centre of each row on a single thread. for this purpose, silk or gold thread may be introduced with advantage. it should be remarked, that each row must be worked the contrary way to the one that preceded it, so that the wide and narrow portions may meet and blend with each other. [illustration] point stitch.--to work this stitch, take four threads straight way of the canvas, and bring the needle three steps up, and so proceed until your point is of a sufficient depth. this stitch looks pretty, worked in different and well contrasted shades, and may be applied to many useful and ornamental purposes. [illustration] queen stitch.--work over four threads in height and two in width, crossing from right to left, and back again. finish each row by a stitch across, between them, taking a thread of each, and, of course, working upon two threads. this is a very neat stitch. [illustration] queen's vandyke.--this is supposed to be the invention of princess clementina, one of the daughters, we believe of a king of france. take twelve threads, and reduce two each stitch, until the length and breadth are in conformity. it can be introduced into a variety of work, and looks well. [illustration] single plait stitch.--pass the needle across the canvas through two threads, from right to left; you then cross four threads downward, and pass the needle as before; then cross upward over two threads aslant, and again pass over four threads, always working downward, and passing the needle from right to left, across two threads, until the row is completed as far as you desire. [illustration] double plait stitch.--this stitch is from left to right across four threads aslant downward, and crossed from right to left, the needle passing out at the left, in the middle of the four threads just crossed, and so continue working downward, until you have finished the pattern. velvet stitch.--this is a combination of cross stitch and queen stitch, and is very ornamental when properly done. you work in plain cross stitch three rows, then leave three threads, and again work three rows as before; thus proceed until your canvas is covered, leaving three threads between every triple row of cross stitch. then across the rows work in queen stitch with double wool; but instead of taking two distinct threads for each stitch, you may take one thread of the preceding stitch; this will give an added thickness to your work. it will be advisable to work the wool over slips of card or parchment, as doing so will make it better to cut. if you work it in squares, they should not be larger than seventeen stitches; and to look well, they must each be placed the contrary way to the other. algerine work.--this work much resembles a venetian carpet, but is finer; it looks best done in very small patterns. it is worked over cotton piping cord, the straight way of the corners; the stitches are over three threads. your work as in raised work, putting the colors in as you come to them, and counting three stitches in width, as one stitch when you are working berlin pattern. the paper canvas is no. 45 and the cord no. 00. it is proper for table mats and other thick kinds of work. to fill up corners.--work in any stitch you prefer and shade in accordance with the subject. in these, and ornamental borders, &c., there is much room for the development of taste and judgment. in all that, you undertake, it will be well for you to recollect, that nothing is lost by taking time to think. however trivial and unimportant our actions may be, they should always be preceded by mature deliberation. a habit of thought once established will remain through life, and protect its possessor from the countless miseries of rash actions, and the agonies of remorse and unavailable repentance. footnotes: [64-*] the presentation of an embroidered scarf was a common mark of approval in the ages of chivalry. chapter vii. fancy needlework. explanation of patterns. [illustration] the beaufort star.--this is a beautiful pattern, and will look well, as a centre, for any moderately-sized piece of work. begin on the width of the canvas, and take twelve threads, reducing at every stitch, one thread for six rows, and thus continue decreasing and increasing alternately, to form squares like diamonds, to the end of the row. the next row is performed in the same manner, only you work on the long way of the canvas. introduce gold or silver thread between where the stitches join, and so finish. [illustration] chess pattern.--work a square in cross stitch, with three stitches, making three of a dark shade and six of white, working as many squares as you require, and leaving spaces equal to those occupied by cross stitch, which you must fill up with irish stitch, working across the canvas. you can employ any color that will harmonize well with the cross stitch; and to complete the pattern, you must work a single stitch across each square, in irish stitch. dice pattern.--this is formed by working rows of eight stitches, in any color you please. you must here have four shades, and work two stitches in each shade. commence a stitch, over ten threads, and drop one each time, until you have taken eight stitches; the intermediate spaces are for the ground, which must contrast with the pattern; and the introduction of a little gold or silver thread, would be an improvement. [illustration] double diamond, in long stitch.--this pattern, when it is worked in two colors strongly contrasted, and the diamonds composed of beads, is exceedingly beautiful. the shades of scarlet and blue, on a white or black ground, produce the most agreeable effect. [illustration] german pattern.--there is a gothic grandeur and sobriety about this pattern which gives to it a noble and grave aspect. it is worked in irish stitch, six threads straight down the second row, falling about four stitches below the first; the third, the same below the second; the fourth and fifth the same number below the third; the next three the same; and then six in the same proportion. you then increase, and so render the arch uniform. the pattern then looks like the head of a gothic column reversed; and the centre should be so disposed as to produce the best effect: those for the first and last row must be of the same tint; and the same rule applies to all the rest. a lady can, of course, choose her own colors; but care must be had to blend the alternate light and dark shades so as to produce a natural harmony. [illustration] irish diamond.--this is beautiful, and is very easy of execution. commence with two threads, and increase to fourteen, working across the canvas, and increasing one thread each way; then decrease to two in the same manner; and so proceed, until the row is completed. begin the next row two threads down the canvas, and place a gold or steel bead in the centre of each diamond. finish with a bordering of gold twist, or mother of pearl. [illustration] lace.--this is a new invention, and is somewhat difficult of execution. the recognized material is a black chantilly silk. it is mostly worked from berlin patterns, and may be done either in cross stitch, or in straight stitch pattern: the edge is finished in cross stitch with wool. you may imitate a pearl border, by taking two threads directly behind the border. it is used for sofa pillows, &c., to which it forms a very pretty termination indeed. heart pattern.--this pattern looks well. pass the wool over ten threads in the centre, then make four additional stitches of ten threads, dropping one each time from the top, and taking one up at the bottom; then take the sixth stitch, dropping a thread at the top as before, but keeping the bottom even with the fifth stitch; your seventh stitch must be in six threads, decreasing two both at the top and bottom; and your last will be on two threads, worked in the same manner: then proceed to form the other half of the pattern. the hearts may be worked in various shades of the same color, and the space between them is to filled up with a diamond, or with an ornament in gold twist, or pearl. [illustration] princess royal.--work this in rows of stitches over four and two threads alternately, leaving one thread between each stitch: begin the next row two threads down, with a stitch over two threads, and proceed as before. work in two strongly contrasted shades, and fill in the vacancies with gold or pearl beads. roman pattern.--the material to be used, in working the pattern, is purse twist; and the grounding may be done in gobelin or tent stitch. the pattern is to be worked in three shades, of the same color; the centre forming a diamond in the lightest shade, then the next, and lastly the darkest to form a broad outline. this kind of work is done quickly, and presents a rich appearance. [illustration] russian pattern.--this is worked in rows across the canvas, in stitches of irregular lengths, and has a pleasing effect. pass the first stitch over sixteen threads, the second over twelve, the third over sixteen, and so proceed to the seventh row, which is the centre. pass the stitch over eighteen threads, and proceed as before for six rows; leave a space of four threads, and commence as at first. form the second row in the same manner, leaving four threads between the longest stitches in each row: the rows may be worked in any number of shades, taking care to preserve uniformity, and the spaces must be filled in with a diamond, worked in the same manner, but reduced in size, and in one color; or it may be worked in gold thread, which would greatly relieve the monotonous appearance of the pattern. it will be best to begin and finish each row with a half diamond. [illustration] victoria pattern.--pass the wool or silk for the centre stitch over six threads, the next over five, and so proceed to the corner, which will be on one thread; the other side must be done in a different shade, but the same color, and the shades of each must be turned alternately the opposite way. the corner stitch should be of some brilliant colored silk, if not of gold thread: the top of one square will be the bottom of another, and you work the three stitches between the corners in black or dark wool. the squares must be filled in with long stitch, working from corner to corner, across the canvas. wave pattern.--these are extremely beautiful, when worked in four or five shades. they are done in irish stitch, and the rows must be worked close together, the wool is passed over six threads, and the rows dropped a few threads below each other, so as to form a wave. the pattern may be varied almost infinitely; the following forms a beautiful specimen: work six rows of any length you choose, dropping one stitch at the top and adding one to the bottom of each row; then proceed upwards, for six rows, and you will obtain a beautiful pointed wave, the seventh row forming the centre; then work nine rows, of which the first, third, fifth seventh, and ninth, must be level with the second row of the pointed wave; and the second, fourth, sixth, and eight, must be on a level with the first and last rows, while the first, third, fifth, seventh, and ninth, must drop two stitches, so as to produce an irregular edge; then work a pointed wave, as before, and the pattern is complete. [illustration] windsor pattern.--in working this pattern, you must count eight threads down the canvas, and then increase one each way, until you have twelve, so as to form a diamond of six sides. the second row must be begun with twelve threads, so as to join the longest stitch in the former row. when each row is finished, the intersectional diamonds must be filled in; which may be done either in silk or gold thread, and has an extremely neat appearance. suggestions as to patterns. for bottle-stand, or any small piece of work, star patterns are very beautiful. the materials proper for working them, are silk and wool, with gold or any other kind of beads, and gold thread or twist. for foundations, you may use either velvet or silk canvas. small sprigs are pretty, for work that is not too large; chenille is proper for the flowers, and the stalks and leaves look best in silk; a few gold beads add to the effect. for large pieces of work, medallion patterns are much used, and produce a good impression on the eye; the outline is to be traced in brilliant silk, and for the centre employ two shades of the same color, working half in each shade; the medallion should be placed upon a white field, and the whole grounded in a dark color, which harmonizes well with the design of the pattern. bags may be worked in a variety of ways, to suit taste and convenience. the border is often made to resemble black lace, and when properly executed, looks extremely well. the parts filled up, should be worked in black floss or black wool. leaves may be worked with gold twist, or beads may be employed. the grounding should be in fine twisted silk: any color may be used. in other cases, white wool, white silk, silver and glass beads, and several other materials are in requisition; so that here is ample scope for classification and arrangement. a mourning bag looks well done to imitate lace, worked in black floss silk, and ornamented with black glass and silver beads, disposed in a tasteful and ornamental style. sometimes a bag is worked as a shield of four squares; in such a case, two squares should be worked in feather stitch, and the others in any stitch that will form a pleasing contrast: the border should be a simple, but elegant lace pattern. for braces and bracelets, any small border pattern may be adopted. they should be worked in two colors, highly contrasted, for bracelets: gold twist round the edge is a great addition. these suggestions in reference to patterns, might have been greatly extended; but we wish every young lady to draw upon the resources of her own mind, and to think for herself. to one, who is desirous to excel, we have said enough; a little thought will enable her to apply the general principles, here laid down, to any particular case; and, without the employment of the thinking faculty, the most minute instructions, in this or any other art, would fail in producing their intended effects. chapter viii. fancy needlework. instructions in embroidery. embroidery with silk.--the materials used as foundations, are various, embracing silk, satin, cloth, and velvet; and the silk employed in working is purse silk, deckers, half twist, and floss; but floss is most in request. embroidery should always be worked in a frame, as it cannot be done well on the hand, except in very small pieces. the same careful attention to shades, before recommended, is necessary here; for small flowers two or three shades are sufficient; but in roses and others, that are large, five shades are in general required; the darker shades should be worked into the centre of the flower, (and it is often advisable to work them in french knots,)[79-*] and thence proceed with the lighter, until you come to the lightest, which forms the outline. the pattern must be correctly drawn upon the material, and in working leaves you must begin with the points, working in the lighter shades first, and veining with a shade more dark: you may soften the blending, by working each shade up, between the stitches of the preceding shade. three, or at most four shades, are sufficient for the leaves: the introduction of more would injure the effect. chenille embroidery.--is very beautiful for screens, &c., but must not be used for any work that is liable to pressure. choose a needle as large as can be conveniently used, and be careful not to have the lengths of chenille too long, as it is apt to get rough in the working. for flowers, it is necessary that the shades should not be too near. the chenille must pass through the material freely, so as not to draw it. it looks well done in velvet, with occasional introductions of gold and silver thread. raised embroidery.--draw the pattern on the material as before. work the flowers, &c., to the height required, in soft cotton, taking care that the centre is much higher than the edges. a careful study of nature is indispensable to the attainment of excellence in this kind of work. pursue the same method with your colors, as in flat embroidery, only working them much closer. the most striking effect is produced when the flowers or animals are raised, and leaves in flat embroidery. much in this, as in every department of this charming art, must depend upon the taste and judgment--correct or otherwise--of the fair artist. a servile copyist will never attain to excellence. embroidery in wool.--this is proper for any large piece of work. the rules for shading embroidery with silk apply here; only the work must not be quite so thick on the material; care must also be taken to bring the wool through on the right side, as near as possible to where it passes through, in order that none may appear on the wrong side, which would occasion much trouble in drawing it, even when removed from the frame. when finished, and while in the frame, it will be proper to damp the back with a little isinglass water, and press with a warm iron on the wrong side. this kind of work is appropriate for the ornamenting of various articles of dress, on which, when judiciously placed, it has a pleasing effect. patterns.--this is a part of fancy needlework to which too much attention cannot be paid, but it is one much neglected. we want to see native genius developed, and we are convinced that many a fair one could increase our stock of patterns, with new and surprising conceptions, if she could but be induced to make the trial. to draw patterns for embroidery or braid work, get a piece of cartridge paper, and having drawn out the design, trace it off upon tissue paper, or which is better, a tracing paper, properly prepared; after which you will find it easy to pierce it through with a piercer, taking care not to run one hole into another. lay the paper so prepared upon the material which you intend to work, and dust it with a pounce bag, so that the powder may go through the holes; the paper must then be carefully removed, and if the material be dark, take a camel's hair pencil, and paint the marks with a mixture of white lead and gum water; or if you prefer it, you can trace the marks left by the pounce, with a black-lead pencil, but the other methods are preferable. a little practice and perseverance will enable you to became tolerably proficient in this department, and confer upon you the further advantage of aiding you in acquiring those habits of untiring diligence, which are so essential to the attainment of any object. ever recollect, that anything worth doing at all, is worth doing well. footnotes: [79-*] this applies especially to the working of dahlias: begin with the centre knot and work round it as many as are required. chapter ix. fancy needlework. preparation of frames. this is a subject which must be carefully attended to, or much unnecessary trouble will be incurred in consequence. to dress a frame for cross stitch.--the canvas must be hemmed neatly round: then count your threads, and place the centre one exactly in the middle of the frame. the canvas must be drawn as tight as the screws or pegs will permit; and if too long, should be wrapped round the poles with tissue paper, to keep it from dust and the friction of the arms, as that is essential to the beauty of the work. it must in all cases be rolled _under_, or it will occasion much trouble in the working. when placed quite even in the frame, secure by fine twine passed over the stretchers, and through the canvas very closely; both sides must be tightened gradually, or it will draw to one side, and the work will be spoiled. to dress a frame for cloth work.--stretch your cloth in the frame as tight as possible, the right side uppermost. the canvas on which you intend to work, must be of a size to correspond with the pattern, and must be placed exactly in the centre of the cloth, to which it is to be secured as smooth as possible. when the work is finished the canvas must be cut, and the threads drawn out, first one and then the other. it is necessary to be especially careful in working, not to split the threads, as that would prevent them drawing, and would spoil the appearance of the work. in all cases, it is advisable to place the cloth so as that the nap may go downward. in working bouquets of flowers, this rule is indispensable. the patterns for cloth work should be light and open. it looks well for sofas, arm chairs, &c., but is by no means so durable as work done with wool, entirely on canvas. to dress a frame for tent stitch.--prepare the frame, and brace the canvas as for cross stitch, only not quite even, but inclining the contrary way to that in which you slant your stitch. this is necessary, as tent stitch always twists a little. this method will cause the work, when taken out of the frame, to appear tolerably straight. should it after all be crooked, it should be nailed at the edges to a square board, and the work may then be pulled even by the threads so as to become perfectly straight. the back of the work should then be slightly brushed over with isinglass water, taking care not to let the liquid come through to the right side. a sheet of paper must be placed between the work and the board, and when nearly dry, another must be laid upon it, and the whole ironed with a warm iron, not too hot, or the brilliancy of the colors will be destroyed. some persons use flour instead of isinglass, but it is highly improper, and should never be resorted to. instructions for working. armorial bearings.--work the arms and crest in silk, as brilliancy is the thing here principally required. it will be proper that the scroll should be worked in wool. the contrast will have a pleasing effect. applique.--this is a very beautiful kind of work. the material may be either silk, or cloth, or any other fabric which may be preferred. upon this foundation, pieces of satin, velvet, &c., are to be carefully tacked down; the pattern, leaves, flowers, &c., must then be drawn, both on the foundation, and the materials of which they are to be formed; after which, they must be cut out and sewed on in the neatest manner possible. they are then to be braided with their own colors round the edges; you must also braid the tendrils and the veins of leaves; work the centre of leaves in a long stitch, and the kind of silk called purse silk, and after braiding the centre of flowers--if single--work over them with french knots, made by twining the silk twice round the needle, and passing it through the material. this kind of work, as covers for tables chairs, &c., is very elegant, and has a good effect. bead work.--use the canvas called bolting; and work two threads each way on the slant, with china silk, taking especial care that the beads are all turned the same way, that the whole may appear uniform. work the pattern with thick beads and ground with transparent ones. you must, in this kind of work, have as few shades as possible. braid work.--trace the pattern in the material, and proceed with the various shades, from the outline or lightest, to the darkest, till the whole is completed. in this work only two shades are for leaves, and three for flowers; make the points as sharp as possible, and in turning the points, work one stitch up close to the point where you turn the braid, and another immediately afterwards to keep it in its place. vein the leaves in a bouquet with purse silk use gold braid in finishing as taste may direct; and in fastening draw the braid through the material. the best instrument for this purpose is a chenille needle. in braid work and applique, only one stitch must be taken at a time, or else the work will appear puckered. braces.--work in silk canvas three inches broad, in silk or wool, in any pattern you prefer. gem, or set patterns.--for this kind of work, ground in black or dark wool, and work the patterns in silks, as distinct and bright as possible, and with the utmost variety of colors. the beauty of these productions of the needle, depends chiefly upon their brilliant and gem-like appearance. gobelin.--if you work in coarse canvas, adopt the same contrast of shades as you employ in cross stitch; if the material be fine, you must shade as in tent stitch. gentlemen's waistcoats.--to ornament the dress of a father, brother, or husband, must at all times be a pleasing employment for domestic affection. for dress waistcoats, embroider satin, either in the form of a wreath, round the edge of the waistcoat, or in small sprigs; for morning, you may work in any pattern you prefer. patterns of the caledonian clans are now much admired. landscapes.--these may be rendered extremely beautiful, if properly managed. the trees in front should be much lighter than those seen in the back ground, and great care should be taken to prevent the latter having too blue a cast, as this renders them unharmonious, when contrasted with the sky. represent water by shades of a blue grey: the sky should be a serene blue, with much closeness, and mingled with clouds composed of varying tints of a white and a yellow drab. if mountains are seen in the distance, they should be of a grey lavender tint, and some living animal should, in nearly all cases, be introduced. the presence of a cow, sheep, &c., gives life and animation to the view. mosaic work.--if you work with wool, cut it into short lengths, and untwist it. no wool can be procured sufficiently fine for this kind of work. if you work with silk, the finest floss is preferable to any other: split silk would be found extremely inconvenient, and the work would not look so well. care must be taken that the shades are very distinct, or they will appear jumbled and unsightly. it will also be necessary to fasten off at every shade, and not to pass from one flower to another, as in that case the fastenings would become visible on the right side, and thus impair the beauty of the performance. in working a landscape, some recommend placing behind the canvas a painted sky, to avoid the trouble of working one. as a compliance with such advice would tend to foster habits of idleness, and thus weaken the sense of moral propriety which should in all we do be ever present with us, as well as destroy that nice sense of honor and sincerity which flies from every species of deception, we hope the fair votaries of this delightful art will reject the suggestion with the contempt it merits. patterns on canvas.--employ for canvas four or five shades, beginning with the darkest, and softening gradually into a lighter tint, till you come to the lightest, following the distinction of contrast exhibited by the berlin patterns. if you wish to introduce silk into any part, it will be best to work it in last. be careful to avoid taking odd threads, if you work the pattern in cross stitch. perforated card.--the needle must not be too large, or the holes will be liable to get broken. the smaller ones must be worked in silk: the larger patterns may be done in either silk or wool. sometimes the flowers are worked in chenille, and the leaves in silk; this gives to card cases, &c., a beautiful and highly ornamental appearance. rug bordering.--use a wooden mesh, grooved, an inch and a quarter in width; pass the material over the mesh, and work in cross stitch: the material to be used, is what is called slacks, (a kind of worsted,) which must be six or eight times doubled. you must leave three threads between each row, and not more than eight rows are required to complete the border. wire work.--for this work choose shades of a light in preference to a dark color, and work with silk. if you employ both silk and wool, silk must be used for the lighter shades, or the beauty of the work will be impaired. sponge the whole before commencing work. chapter x. fancy needlework. application of fancy needlework to useful purposes. lace.--this imitation is used as an elegant finish for carriage bags, sofa pillows, &c.; and also for ladies' work bags, to which it is both ornamental and becoming. princess royal.--this pattern is especially proper for bags or small stands. point stitch, is well adapted for working covers for hassocks, as well as for bags of a considerable size. basket stitch.--this kind of work is very elegant for flower, fruit, or work baskets; or any other of an ornamental character. german pattern, is well adapted for slippers, as, when worked, it is found to be very durable, and its appearance peculiarly fits it for this application. embroidery, is of almost universal application: that with chenille is much used in the ornamental parts of dress, and is productive of a most pleasing effect. embroidery in wool is also much in use for the same purpose. rug borderings.--these may be considered as articles of domestic economy; and besides the pleasure which arises from seeing the parlor, or the side-board, adorned with the elegant productions of a daughter, or a sister, this kind of work is at all times, when properly executed, superior, considered merely as work, far superior to any similar productions emanating from the loom. gentlemen's waistcoats and braces.--by being able to perform this kind of work, it is at all times in the power of the fair sex to offer an elegant present to a father, husband, or brother, and thus to increase the hallowed pleasures of the domestic circle. this reason is amply sufficient to induce our lovely countrywomen to cultivate this department of fancy needlework. wire work.--this is a lovely material for baskets, and various kinds of ornamental fabrications. working figures.--this delightful application of the needle may be rendered subservient to numerous useful and interesting purposes. by it the sister arts of painting and design may be materially promoted: the scenes of former days may be delineated on the historic canvas, or the portrait of a departed friend may be placed before us, as when blooming in all the living lustre of angelic loveliness. let this portion of the art be especially and assiduously cultivated. armorial bearings.--these are proper for screens, and may be made of a high moral utility, by exciting in the minds of the young, an ardent desire to become acquainted with the events of history, and with the actions and principles of former times. mosaic work, and perforated card.--these are used for note books, ornamental card cases, hand screens, book marks and a variety of other useful purposes. braid work.--the application of this kind of work is well known, and is so general, that no particular cases need be pointed out. applique.--this is very elegant, as employed for table covers, sofas, chairs, &c.; indeed it always looks pretty, and to whatever it is applied it has a pleasing effect. star patterns, are proper for sofa cushions, bottle stands, or any piece of work that is small. medallion pattern.--where the work is coarse, or large, these may be introduced with good effect; but especial attention must be paid to a proper combination of colors and shades. chapter xi. fancy needlework. special instructions. instructions in grounding.--care must be taken in grounding to make the effect of contrast very conspicuous. thus, if you ground in dark colors, your pattern should be worked in shades of a light and lively tint; for those in which dark shades predominate, a light ground is indispensible. the canvas for white grounding should be white; and if for dark grounding, a striped fabric is employed. the stripes will sometimes appear through the wool. to prevent this it will be necessary to rub over the surface with a little indian ink water previous to commencing working, but care must be taken not to let the mixture run into the edges of the work, and it must be quite dry before you commence grounding. a camel's hair brush is best for this purpose. in working in cross stitch, it is best to do so on the slant, working from right to left across the canvas, and then back again. this is preferable to crossing each stitch as you proceed, and gives an improved appearance to the work. if you work in tent stitch, work straight, or your performance will be uneven when taken out of the frame. in all cases begin to go round from the centre, and work outwards, taking care to fasten off as you finish with each needleful, which should not be too long, as the wool is liable to get rough and soiled. it is also necessary to have them irregular as to length, to prevent the fastenings coming together which they will be apt to do if this suggestion is not attended to. for working in tent stitch with single wool, the canvas must not have more than fourteen threads to an inch; for cross stitch you must have a canvas not coarser than twenty-two threads to an inch; for the former, you will for every two and a half square inches require a skein of wool; in the latter case a skein will cover two inches. following this calculation, you can easily ascertain the quantity of wool required for any piece of work; and it is advisable to purchase all your wool at the same time, otherwise you will have much trouble in matching the shades. an attention to these instructions will soon make you a proficient in the grounding department of the art. working figures.--this is at once one of the most difficult, and at the same time one of the most pleasing tasks which the votary of fancy needlework will have to perform; they generally produce the best effect when worked in wool and silk, with a judicious mixture of gold and silver beads. the hair and drapery should be worked in cross stitch; and the face, neck, and hands, in tent stitch; working four of the latter for one of the former. to obtain the proper tints for the face, &c., is no easy task; but it _must_ be carefully attended to, as almost the whole beauty of the work depends upon it. the shades in these parts of the figure must be extremely close; indeed upon shading of the features the perfection of the performance mainly depends. the drapery also demands considerable care: the shades must be very distinct, particularly the lighter ones in the folds of the dress; and the back ground should be subdued as much as possible, that a proper prominence may be given to the figure: this object will be aided considerably by working in the lighter shades in silk: any representation of water or of painted glass, should be worked in the same material. the intention of the fair worker should be to give to her performance as near an approximation to oil painting as possible. raised work.--this should be done with german wool, as it more nearly resembles velvet. for working flowers, you must have two meshes, one-seventh of an inch in width, and the pattern must be worked in gobelin stitch. be careful not to take one mesh out, until you have completed the next row. you work across the flowers; and in order to save an unnecessary waste of time, as well as to facilitate your work, it will be best to thread as many needles as you require shades, taking care not to get the various shades mixed together. this is more needful, as you cannot, as in cross stitch, finish one shade before commencing another. when the pattern is worked, cut straight across each row, with a pair of scissors suitable to the purpose, and shear the flower into its proper form. for working animals or birds, you must have three meshes; the first, one quarter; and the third, one seventh of an inch: the second must be a medium between these two. you will require the largest for the breast, and the upper parts of the wings. cross stitch may be employed in working the beak, or feet, and is indeed preferable. you may work leaves, either in cross stitch or in gobelin stitch, as taste or fancy may direct. you may work either from a drawing on canvas, or from berlin pattern; but the latter is decidedly to be preferred. working berlin patterns.--for these patterns, it will be necessary to work in canvas, of eighteen or ten threads to the inch, according as you may desire the work to be a larger, or of the same size as the pattern: and, it must be borne in mind, that all the patterns are drawn for tent stitch, so that if you work in cross stitch, and wish to have it the same size as the pattern, you must count twenty stitches on the canvas, for ten on the paper. the choice of colors, for these patterns, is a matter of essential importance as the transition from shade to shade, if sudden and abrupt, will entirely destroy the beauty of the design. a natural succession of tints, softly blending into each other, can, alone produce the desired effect. in working flowers, five or six shades will be required: in a rose, or other large flower, six shades are almost indispensible; of these, the darkest should form the perfect centre, then the next (not prominently, though perceptibly) differing from it, and the next four to the lightest tint; the whole, to be so managed, as to give to the flower that fulness, and distinctness, which its position in the design demands. for small flowers, so many shades are rarely necessary. the two darkest shades should be strong, the others soft; this secures sufficiency of contrast, without impairing that harmony of tints, which is so indispensible. you must recollect, that for work done in tent stitch, a greater contrast of shade is required, than for that done in cross stitch. this remark should never be lost sight of. a proper attention to the shading of leaves, is indispensible; the kinds of green required, for this purpose, are bright grass green, for a rose; saxon green, for lilies, convolvolus, peonies, &c.; french green, for iris, marigold, narcissus, &c.; and for poppies, tulips, &c.; a willow green, which has a rather bluer tint than french green is generally; and for leaves which stand up above the flowers, or near them, it is proper to work the tips in a very light green, as reflecting the rays of light: the next shade should be four times darker, or three at the least; the next two; then the fourth shade, two darker than the third; and the fifth, two darker than the fourth: take care that the veins of leaves be distinctly marked, and those which are in the shade should be darker than those upon which the light falls; and if of a color having a bluish tint, a few worked in olive green will have a fine effect. the stalks of roses, &c., should be worked in olive brown or a very dark green. white flowers are often spoilt, by being worked of too dark a shade; if you do not work with silk, you may obtain two distinct shades of white, by using moravian cotton and white wool; these combined with three shades of light stone color--the second two shades darker than the first, and the third darker than the second, in the same proportions--will produce a beautiful white flower, which if properly shaded, by leaves of the proper tints, will have a most beautiful appearance. the lighter parts of all flowers, in berlin patterns, may be worked in silk; and in many cases that is a decided improvement; but it should never be introduced in the leaves; here it would be out of place. we again repeat, beware of servile copying: try to engage your own judgment in this work, and, remember, that to become used to think and to discriminate, is one of the most valuable acquisitions that a young lady can attain. we have now, we trust, placed before the young student of fancy needlework, such plain directions, in all things essential to the art, as cannot fail, if a proper degree of thought and attention is bestowed upon them, to make her a proficient in this delightful employment. with one or two additional remarks, we will conclude this portion of our labors. the young votary of the needle must recollect that, if she allows her fondness for this accomplishment to draw off her attention from the more serious or useful business of life, she will act decidedly wrong and had far better never learn it at all. another thing to be especially guarded against, is, not to devote too much time to this, or any other engagement, at once; the mind and body are both injured, to a serious extent, by dwelling too long on a single object. let it never for a moment be forgotten, relaxation and exercise are indispensible, if you wish to enjoy good health, or an even and pleasant temper. again, take care that you never become so absorbed in the object of your pursuit, as to allow it to interfere with the calls of friendship, benevolence, or duty. the young lady who can forget her moral and domestic duties, in the fascinations of the embroidery frame, gives but little promise of excellence, in the more advanced stages of life. let neatness, and order, characterize all your arrangements. cut your silks and wools into proper lengths, and fold them in paper, writing the color on each, and numbering them according to their shades, 1, 2, 3, &c., beginning with the darkest. dispose all your materials so as to come at them without trouble or inconvenience, and use every possible care to prevent your work from being spoiled in the performance. we advise every young lady to pay particular attention to painting and design; and to render every accomplishment subservient to some high and moral development of the heart, and of the character. chapter xii. knitting. explanation of stitches. before entering upon the immediate subject of this chapter, we wish to make a few remarks; which, we trust, will be acceptable to our fair readers. the art of knitting is supposed to have been invented by the spanish; and would doubtless form, in connection with needlework, an agreeable relaxation, amid the stiff formality and unvarying mechanical movements which made up, for the most part, the lives of the ancient female nobility of that peninsula. the scotch also lay claim to the invention, but we think upon no sufficient authority. knitted silk-hose were first worn in england by henry viii., and we are told that a present of a pair of long knitted silk stockings, of spanish manufacture, was presented to the young prince (edward vi.), by sir thomas gresham, and was graciously received, as a gift of some importance. clumsy and unsightly cloth-hose had been previously worn: and, though we are told by howel, that queen elizabeth was presented with a pair of black _knitted_ silk stockings, by mistress montague, her silk-woman, yet her maids of honor were not allowed to wear an article of dress, which her royal pride deemed only suited to regal magnificence. we believe the first pair of knitted stockings, ever made in england, were the production of one william rider, an apprentice, residing on london bridge; who, having accidentally seen a pair of knitted worsted stockings, while detained on some business, at the house of one of the italian merchants, made a pair of a similar kind, which he presented to the earl of pembroke, 1564. the stocking-frame was the invention of mr. w. lee, m. a., who had been expelled from cambridge, for marrying, in contravention to the statutes of the university. himself and his wife, it seems, were reduced to the necessity of depending upon the skill of the latter, in the art of knitting, for their subsistence; and as necessity is the parent of invention, mr. lee, by carefully watching the motion of the needles, was enabled, in 1589, to invent the stocking-frame; which has been the source of much advantage to others, though there is reason to believe the contrivance was of little service to the original proprietor. since its first introduction, knitting has been applied to a vast variety of purposes, and has been improved to an extent almost beyond belief. it has furnished to the blind, the indigent, and almost destitute irish cottage girl, the means, pleasure and profit at the same time. many ladies, including some in the rank of royalty, have employed their hours of leisure in the fabrication of articles, the produce of which have gone to the funds of charity, and have tendered to the alleviation of at least some of "the numerous ills that flesh is heir to;" and amongst those, the labors of the hon. mrs. wingfield, upon the estates of lord de vesci, in ireland, ought not to be forgotten. to cast on the loops or stitches.--take the material in the right hand, and twist it round the little finger, bring it under the next two, and pass it over the fore finger. then take the end in the left hand, (holding the needle in the right,) wrap it round the little finger, and thence bring it over the thumb, and round the two fore fingers. by this process the young learner will find that she has formed a loop: she must then bring the needle under the lower thread of the material, and above that which is over the fore finger of the right hand under the needle, which must be brought down through the loop, and the thread which is in the left hand, being drawn tight, completes the operation. this process must be repeated as many times as there are stitches cast on. knitting stitch.--the needle must be put through the cast-on stitch, and the material turned over it, which is to be taken up, and the under loop, or stitch, is to be let off. this is called plain stitch, and is to be continued until one round is completed. pearl stitch.--called also seam, ribbed, and turn stitch, is formed by knitting with the material before the needle; and instead of bringing the needle over the upper thread, it is brought under it. to rib, is to knit plain and pearled stitches alternately. three plain, and three pearled, is generally the rule. to cast over.--this means bringing the material round the needle, forward. narrowing.--this is to decrease the number of stitches by knitting two together, so as to form only one loop. raising.--this is to increase the number of stitches, and is effected by knitting one stitch as usual, and then omitting to slip out the left hand needle, and to pass the material forward and form a second stitch, putting the needle under the stitch. care must be taken to put the thread back when the additional stitch is finished. to seam.--knit a pearl stitch every alternate row. a row, means the stitches from one end of the needle to the other; and a round, the whole of the stitches on two, three, or more needles. note, in casting on a stocking, there must always be an odd stitch cast on for the seam. to bring the thread forward, means to pass it between the needles toward the person of the operator. a loop stitch, is made by passing the thread before the needle. in knitting the succeeding loop, it will take its proper place. a slip stitch, is made by passing it from one needle to another without knitting it. to fasten on.--this term refers to fastening the end of the material, when it is necessary to do so during the progress of the work. the best way is to place the two ends contrarywise to each other, and knit a few stitches with both. to cast off.--this is done by knitting two stitches, passing the first over the second, and so proceeding to the last stitch, which is to be made secure by passing thread through it. welts, are rounds of alternate plain and ribbed stitches, done at the top of stockings, and are designed to prevent their twisting or curling up. sometimes knitting is done in rows of plain and pearl stitches, or in a variety of neat and fanciful patterns. scarcely any kind of work is susceptible of so much variety, or can be applied to so many ornamental fabrics or uses in domestic economy. the fair votary of this art must be careful neither to knit too tight or too loose. a medium, which will soon be acquired by care and practice, is the best, and shows the various kinds of work to the best advantage. the young lady should take care to preserve her needles entirely free from rust, and to handle the materials of her work with as delicate a touch as possible. having thus given instructions in the common rudiments of this useful art, we proceed to give plain directions for some of the most beautiful. fancy stitches in knitting. bee's stitch.--in knitting a purse in this stitch, you must cast the loops on three needles, having twenty on each. the two first rows in plain knitting. the third is thus worked. having brought the silk in front, a stitch is to be slipped, and you knit the next, pulling the one you slipped over it; you knit the next, and the succeeding one is pearled; proceed in this manner for one round. the next round you knit plain; the next is to be executed like the third. proceed thus in alternate rounds, and you can introduce two colors, highly contrasted, knitting six or eight rounds of each. berlin wire stitch.--the stitches cast on must be an even number. knit three, four, or five plain rows. then begin the work by taking off the first stitch, knit one stitch, knit off two stitches together, and make a stitch; repeat this process to the end of the row; the next row is to be knitted plain, and so on alternately. this work may be done either with large pins and lamb's wool, if it be intended for shawls, &c., or with fine needles and thread, in which case it forms a beautiful kind of insertion work for frocks, capes, collars, and other articles of dress. if it is intended for insertion work, the number of stitches cast on are eight, and one pattern is formed by each four stitches. common plait.--this is employed for muffatees, coverlets, and various other articles. you cast on the stitches in threes: the number is unlimited. knit one row plain, then proceed as follows. row first, three plain stitches and three pearled. second row the same, taking care to begin where the last is finished, that is, if you ended with plain stitches, you begin with the pearled. proceed in the same way with the third row, and you will have a succession of squares, of inside and outside knitting, alternately. the fourth row is to be begun with the same kind of stitches as completed the first row; continue as before, and the work will be in squares, like those of a chess board. this stitch is extremely pretty. chain stitch.--the number of loops to be cast on is thirteen. knit the first two rows plain, and in beginning the third, knit three plain stitches, and bring the material in front, then pearl seven stitches; the material is then to be turned back, and you knit the other three stitches plain. the next row is plain knitting, and then you proceed as in the third row, and so on alternately, until you have completed sixteen rows. you then knit three stitches plain, and take off the four succeeding ones upon a spare pin. the next three stitches from behind the pin, are to be knitted so as to miss it completely, and the material is to be drawn so tight, as that the pins may be connected together as closely as possible. this done you knit the four stitches of the third pin, which completes the twist. the remaining three stitches are then to be knitted, and a fresh link begun, by knitting three stitches, pearling seven, knitting three, and so proceeding for sixteen rows, when another twist is to be made. crow's-foot stitch.--this stitch may be worked in two ways. if it be for a shawl, begin at the corner, and raise at the beginning and end of each row. in the other method, you cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by three, and you must cast on one additional for the commencement. you knit the first row plain and then proceed according to the following directions: first, knit a stitch. second, make a stitch. third, slip the next. fourth, knit two stitches together. fifth, put the stitch you slipped over the two last knitted; this is to be repeated, with the exception of the first knitted stitch, to the end of the row. the next row is composed entirely of pearled stitches. this stitch is neat and elegant. double knitting.--of this stitch there are three kinds, now in general use. in executing them proceed as follows. having cast on any even number of stitches, knit a few rows in plain knitting; then, for the double stitch, begin the row by knitting a stitch, and pass the material in front, between the knitting pins. then a stitch is to be taken off, being careful to put the needle inside the loop, and to pass the material back again. you then knit another stitch, and so proceed to the end of the row. for the second kind of double knitting, you cast on an even number of stitches, as before, and the first stitch is knitted plain; the material being put twice over the pin. then, as in the first kind, pass the material between the needles; a stitch is to be slipped, and the material passed again behind. this process is repeated in every stitch to the end of the row. in the next row, you reverse the work, knitting the stitches that were before slipped, and slipping the knitted ones. the third kind is very simple, and can be done quicker than the others. it is worked on the wrong side, and when completed must be turned inside out; hence it is necessary to knit plain at the sides or ends. the number of stitches must be even, as in the previous methods. no plain row is needed; but you commence by putting the material in front of the pins, and being careful to keep it constantly in that position. turn the first stitch, take off the second, and so on alternately, till the row is finished. dutch common knitting.--this is the common knitting stitch, performed in a more expeditious manner than that in general practised. the needle filled with stitches, is held in the left hand, and the material also, which is to be wrapped round the little finger once or twice. it passes to the needles over the fore finger. to form the loop on the needle held in the right hand, it is only necessary to put it into the stitch from behind, and knit off by putting the material round the needle. embossed diamond.--you cast on any number of stitches which can be divided by seven. the first row is plain: for the second, pearl one stitch, knit five, and pearl two; thus proceed, alternately, to complete the row: for the third, knit two, pearl three, and knit four, and so proceed. the fourth row you pearl three, knit one, and pearl six, alternately. the fifth row is plain knitting. the next row you pearl two, knit two, pearl five, and so on to the end. next knit two, pearl four and knit three, alternately. next knit six, and pearl one, successively. reverse the next, pearling six, and knitting one. then in the succeeding row, knit five and pearl three, and knit four in succession. next knit three, pearl two, and knit five, alternately. the succeeding row is plain. embossed hexagon stitch.--you can work with any number of stitches you choose, which can be divided by six. the first row is plain, the next pearled throughout; the third row is plain. for the first knit four stitches, and slip two at the end; then pearl a row, taking care to slip the stitches that were slipped before. next knit a row slipping the two stitches as before. the next row is pearled still slipping the two stitches. the succeeding two rows are knitted and pearled like the others, and the two stitches are still to be slipped. the next row is pearled, and you take up all the stitches; then a row is to be knitted plain, and a row pearled, which completes the pattern. in beginning the next pattern, you pearl a row, slipping the fifth and sixth stitches, so that they shall be exactly in the centre of the previously worked pattern; you then proceed as before. elastic rib.--this as its name implies, is the proper stitch for garters, or any kind of an article which is wanted to fit easily yet firmly. you are to set on any number of loops you please, and knit one row plain; the next is pearled, the two next are plain; then one pearled, and so on alternately to the end. fantail stitch.--the application of this stitch is in the preparation of mitts, gloves, &c., and sometimes it is used for purses, in which it looks extremely pretty. the material generally employed is cotton, and you begin by setting on any even number of stitches you require. a loop is made, by throwing the cotton over the pin; you then knit a loop, and make and knit alternately; each of the two last are knitted plain, and you narrow the commencement and conclusion of each row, at the second and third loops, until you have reduced it to the number originally cast on. the usual number of stitches cast on is fourteen. french stitch.--you set on the loops in fours, and must have two over. the first stitch is pearled, then turn the thread back, and knit two stitches together. form a new stitch by bringing the thread in front, and knit a stitch; the thread is again to be brought in front, and the last stitch pearled, which completes the pattern. the next row is begun in a similar manner, the thread is turned back, two stitches are knitted together at the end, the thread is turned, and you knit the last stitch. german knitting.--you cast on twenty-one stitches, and proceed as follows. first row, the material is to be passed forward, one stitch slipped, then knit one, and pass the slipped one over; three stitches are then to be knitted, and two taken as one; again pass the material forward, and knit one stitch. second row, the same, except that when in the first you knitted three stitches, knit one; and when one, you knit three. for the third row, you pass the material as before, and slip one stitch, then two are taken as one, and the slipped one is passed over again; repeat this, except that in taking two stitches together, you knit one, and pass the slipped one over; finish by knitting two stitches. honeycomb stitch.--this is also often used for shawls. it is knitted as follows. you knit the first stitch, and pass the other to make a loop over the needle. two stitches are then knitted together, and you thus continue making the loops, and knitting two stitches together, until you have completed the row. you knit every second row thus; the alternate ones plain. herring-bone bag stitch.--you cast on the stitches by fours, and the material used is silk. knit two plain stitches, and then make a large one, by turning the silk twice over the needle; after which, knit two stitches together, and repeat this, until you have completed the work. imitation net-work stitch.--you set on any number of stitches you please, but you must have no odd ones. the first row is plain knitting. the next row you commence by bringing the wool upon the first pin, and twisting it round it by bringing it over from behind, and putting it behind again. you are then to knit two loops together, and the pin must be put first into the one nearest to you, and the wool is to be twisted round the pin as before. then again, knit two together, and so on to the end. each row is done in the same manner. knit herring-bone stitch.--any number of stitches you please may be cast on, observing to have three for each pattern, and one over at each end. the first row must be plain: then, in beginning the second, take off the first stitch, and knit two together in pearl stitch. next make one, by passing the material before, and knitting one, pearl two stitches together, and make and knit a stitch as before. every row is the same. lace wave stitch.--the number of stitches must be even. the first stitch is to be slipped; then knit one, and make one, by casting the material over the pin. narrow, by knitting two stitches together, and again knit a stitch; then make one, and again narrow; and so on till you complete the row. the next row is done plain. the third row is as follows: two stitches knitted plain; make one stitch, and narrow two in one; then knit one stitch; make and narrow, as before to the end; then knit a row plain. for the fifth row, knit three stitches plain, and thus proceed as in the third row. the sixth row is done plain; and the seventh one commences by knitting four stitches plain, and then proceeding as before. the eighth row is plain; and the ninth is begun by knitting five plain stitches, and proceed as above; then knit two rows plain, and the pattern is complete. this can be continued to any length required. moss stitch.--this is easily done. cast on any even number of loops, and for the first row, the first loop is slipped, the material brought in front; the stitch is pearled, and repeat so to the end. the next row is so worked, that the stitches knit in the proceeding row, must be pearled in this. open hem.--the number of stitches is unlimited, but they must be capable of being divided by four. at the beginning of each row you slip the first stitch, and knit the second. then make a stitch by putting the cotton over the pin; knit two loops together; knit one stitch, make a stitch, and so proceed. you must have very fine pins and sewing cotton. open cross stitch.--this is done in the following manner. two colors are to be employed, and the first row of each is done in pearl stitch. in working the second row of each, the following is the order of procedure: first, knit a stitch: second, make a stitch; third, slip one; fourth, two are to be knitted together, and the one slipped is to be drawn over the knitted ones; thus you proceed to the end of the row. the two next are to be commenced with the other color; and thus you work two rows with each color, successively. the fresh color is always to cross from beneath the last one, or otherwise a hole would be left in the work. in the making of shawls, this stitch is often adopted, and it looks well, but, of course, requires to be bordered with some other pattern. ornamental ladder stitch.--the stitches are to be set on in elevens. commence by knitting two stitches plain, then knit two together, and repeat the same, drawing the first loop over the second; proceed thus to the end. commence the second row by pearling two stitches; pass the material over the pin twice; again pearl two stitches, and so proceed to the end. in the next row, knit two; pass the material round the pin twice, knit two, and so continue. thus you proceed with alternate rows of knitted and pearled stitches, being careful to slip the stitches made by throwing the material round the pin, without knitting them. pine apple stitch.--for a bag you must cast on thirty-six loops on three needles, and proceed thus: first row, knit one plain, raise one by throwing the silk over the pin, knit one plain, then raise, knit two plain, you knit the next two together, drawing the last loop over the first; you will then have six loops. in the second row, knit the first raised loop, then raise, knit the next one plain, then raise, knit plain till you come to the next raising, and omit knitting the two together as in the first row. third row, you knit plain to the raising, and then proceed as in the first row. you knit the fourth as the second; and so proceed alternately, until you have twelve rows. then in the stitches you had previously narrowed, you must raise, and introduce a bead upon each plain loop, with a thread, and again raise. where you had previously raised, you must narrow with the bead you have upon the silk. in this manner proceed raising and narrowing alternately, until you have twelve rows as before. you then reverse, and again work as in the first part of the pattern. plain open stitch.--the stitches set on must be an even number. the two first rows are plain. then commence the third row, by knitting one stitch; pass the material in front, and form a new stitch, by knitting two together. this is to be repeated, until you come to the last stitch, which must be knit. then knit two plain rows and proceed as before. porcupine stitch.--this is proper for a purse, and when properly executed, is extremely pretty. you cast on, upon each of three needles, thirty-six loops, and knit one plain round. for the next, you knit four stitches: and, having brought the silk forward, knit one loop: this will form the middle stitch of the pattern. then, again bringing the silk forward, knit fourteen stitches; after which, slip one, and leaving the under part, knit two together, and draw the stitches, last slipped, over it. then knit four stitches, as at the commencement, and so proceed for six rounds, increasing before and after each middle stitch. you knit till within one of where you decreased. the stitch thus left is to be slipped, and you then knit two together, and draw the slipped loop over it. you are then to knit one plain round, and the next row is also plain, except the loops which are over the middle stitches, where you are to insert a bead, by bringing it through the stitches. you next knit a round plain, and must be careful to keep the beads on the outside of the purse, or rather in the inside while knitting, as this purse is done the wrong side out. you are to knit, until you come within one loop of the bead, which must be slipped, and you knit the next two together. you are then to increase six rounds on each side of the stitch decreased as in the proceeding pattern, which will make that the middle or bead stitch. the material should be done in middle sized purse silk, on needles, no. 18. rough-cast stitch.--any odd number of stitches may be cast on. each row is begun with a plain stitch, and the others are plain and pearled alternately. this is very suitable for borders, as it is firm and looks neat. wave knitting.--this is proper for a pin-cushion, and looks extremely neat. commence by casting on seventy-nine loops. then proceed as follows. first row, knit four loops plain, pearl one, knit nine plain, and repeat to the end of the row, finishing with four plain loops. commence the second row with three pearled stitches, knit three plain, pearl seven, repeat as before. third row, knit two plain, pearl five, knit five plain, repeat. fourth row, pearl one, knit seven plain, pearl three, repeat. fifth row, pearl nine, knit one plain, pearl nine, and repeat to the end. this finishes the pattern. chapter xiii. knitting. examples in knitting. a biroche.--the stitch is very simple. you bring the wool forward, slip one, and knit two together. this elegant cushion is made up of sixteen narrow rows, and sixteen broad stripes, which decrease gradually toward the centre. it may be made in double german wool, or other material, with no. 19 ivory or wooden pins. cast on ninety stitches, and knit two turns; then in gold color three turns, and again two in black: this forms the narrow stripe. then form the broad stripe thus: knit two stitches, and turn; then knit two of the black, and turn; this must be continued, taking every time two additional stitches of the black, until you are within two stitches of the top, and then turn. you will now find the wool has descended to the wide part of the stripe. you then again commence a narrow stripe, and so go on, until the whole is completed. when the last wide stripe is finished, knit it to the first narrow stripe, and make up the biroche in any manner you please. a baby's cap.--cast on 240 stitches, on three pins; knit twelve rounds, and be sure you pearl every alternate stitch: in the succeeding round you must pearl the stitches which were left plain in the preceding ones. then take in eighty stitches, namely; one at every fourth, which will form a full border; then proceed to knit the cap thus: one row plain, the next open, then three plain, and twenty-four double knitting; again knit three rows plain, one open, repeat the three plain rows, again repeat the double knitting, and the plain and open rows as before; you next proceed to form the hinder part of the cap, by casting on twenty-four stitches at each end of the pins; knit forty-eight rows of double knitting, take in to the size of the crown, and knit three rows plain, one open, and repeat the three plain rows; then fasten off at top, unite the open space at the back, and repeat the plain and open rows as before. you form the crown, by casting on sixteen loops; then increase a loop at each end, for sixteen rows; then knit sixteen, and decrease as you increased, and thus the circle becomes regularly formed. baby's hood.--use no. 18 needles, and double german wool; cast on fifty stitches, and knit eighty rows plain; roll up sixty, to form the front. three inches of the cast off part are to be sewed together, and the rest is to be drawn up for the crown. then cast on fifty stitches to form the foundation of the hood, and knit forty rows plain. line with white silk, and trim with satin ribbon. baby's shoe.--work with two colors, in stripes. you cast on twenty-eight stitches, _in blue_, and knit one row plain; then knit a plain row in white, adding one stitch at the end to form the heel, and turn; then a similar row in blue, to increase and turn, repeat this without increasing, and changing the colors each time, until you have ten stripes. then knit one row in blue, and turn, casting off seventeen stitches. you begin from the heel. the remaining thirteen stitches are knitted with white; turn; knit a row with blue; turn: and so continue, until you have five rows of one color, and four of the other. the thirteen stitches are then to be done in blue, and seventeen to correspond, are to be added; turn: this side is finished like the other, decreasing from the heel. you then sew up the heel and toe, so as to form a shoe. you are then, with four needles, to pick up the stitches round the ankle and fore foot, putting an equal number upon each of the three needles, and knit five rows plain; make a stitch by bringing the wool forward, then slip one; knit the next two, and pass the slip-stitch over them; again bring the wool forward, and repeat the process for one round: knit eighteen rows, five plain, four pearled; repeat and finish, bringing the wool forward, knitting two together; then knit two rows plain, and cast off. you must use no. 14 needles, and double german wool. a beautiful fringe and border.--this can be applied to a variety of useful purposes. it is executed as follows. the number of stitches must be even, and of any depth you deem desirable. begin, by making a stitch, laying the material over the needle; put it through two loops, and knit them as one; repeat to the end of the row; thus continue to knit as many rows as you please, and when the stripe is of sufficient length, fasten off, letting from four to ten stitches fall off the needle to unravel for the fringe. a comforter.--on a moderate sized pin, cast on forty stitches; and in knitting, carry the wool twice round the pin for each stitch. the comforter is to be done in double knitting, and may be finished with a fringe and border at the end. without the fringe, you will require a quarter of a pound of six-thread untwisted lamb's wool; for the fringe a little more will be required. another comforter.--you are to cast on thirty stitches, and knit plain sixty-four ribs, knitting them backwards and forwards; then take twenty-two stitches from the middle of the side, and you will have twenty-one left one each end. form a chest-piece, by knitting as before, twenty-two ribs, and fasten off: you have only to sew up the end, and it is done. zephyr.--this is a light shawl for a baby, and may be made either of a half-handkerchief form, or a square. cast on about 130 loops, and knit in french or honey-comb stitch, which you like; or any other pretty pattern you prefer, as embossed hexagon, &c. you may add a fringe and border, which gives to the zephyr a rich and finished appearance. an over-shoe.--these are useful to wear in the house, or to slip over a satin shoe, when occasion requires. the number of stitches to be cast on is thirty-four. knit a square, plain, which is to be doubled, and sewn up on one side, to the heel; then sew up three inches for the instep, and form the toe by puckering in the end. a knitted muff, in imitation of sable.--you cast on seventy or eighty stitches. knit the first three rows plain; then, for the fourth row, bring the wool forward, and taking two stitches at the back, knit them; repeat to the end: these four must be repeated, until the piece is about half a yard long, taking care that the shading is as correct as possible. you must here use no. 19 needles, and double german wool. the shades required are four, and you begin with the lightest, proceeding to the darkest, and then reversing them. the muff must be stuffed, and lined with silk. a strong knitted purse.--any number of stitches, that can be divided by three, will do. first and third row: the wool is to be brought forward, then slip one, knit two, and pass over them the slip stitch; repeat second and fourth row plain. third and fifth row: knit two, before commencing the pattern; the holes will then fall in a diagonal direction: it will require to be well stretched. barege knitting, for shawls.--in this kind of work, you commence with any number of stitches you require: and, after knitting one row plain, you begin the second, by knitting three stitches; then, bring the wool forward, and knit three together, taking them off at the back; again you bring the wool forward, and knit three, as before. the third row is pearled; and the fourth is the second repeated, only beginning by knitting three stitches together. fifth row, the same as the third; and thus proceed with any number of rows you choose. you may introduce any patterns in flowers, &c., you may desire, by breaking off the ground color, and fastening on that which is designed for the pattern, by means of a slip knot, made at the end of the wool. all flowers, &c., must be done in plain knitting. checked patterns.--any number of stitches may be cast on, that can be divided by six. then knit the first three rows three pearl stitches, and three plain; second three rows, knit three stitches plain, and three pearl. this pattern may be worked for children's socks, bags, mats, (if done in coarse materials,) &c. close stitch, for a waistcoat.--this is to be done in two colors, and cast on any odd number of stitches. first and fifth row, with one color; knit one, and slip one, in succession. second and sixth row, with the same color; knit one, bring the wool forward, and slip one; pass the wool back, knit one, repeat. the third is the first reversed, and the fourth is worked exactly as the second, omitting the first stitch. pine apple purse.--the material is purse twist, and you will require two colors; one skein of green, and one and a half of orange. cast on 159 stitches, and proceed as follows. knit the first row, and turn it, then knit two rows, and again turn. to have ten points you must narrow and widen alternately every seven stitches. proceed in this way with the green twist for fifteen rounds; then with the orange knit one plain row and turn, knit seven rows as before, knit one plain row and turn, then reverse the narrowings, so as to take up the loops at the beginning of every row of points, and make a loop on each side: you are to have eight rows of points. you make no loops in the second row, but having counted when you have finished the points, you seam in the first row of green and reverse the narrowings without taking up the loops, proceed to knit twelve rows; after which, you must narrow until you have but four loops on each pin, then knit the stalks, and narrow off. star, with eight points.--this is proper for the bottom of a bag or purse. in working it, proceed according to the following directions. you work with five needles, on each of four of which you cast on two stitches, eight in whole, knit one plain round. then, first row, raise, knit one, raise, knit one, and put on one bead at every knitted loop. second row, you knit a plain round. third row, raise, knit two plain, raise, two plain; the raising is at the beginning and middle of each needle; and you thus proceed, until you have fifty beads on a needle, for a bag, and eighteen for a purse. to take off the points, proceed as follows: first row, raise one, knit one, raise one, slip one off needle as in knitting, knit one, and draw the one not knitted over it; knit plain, and put on beads until you come to the middle of the needle; thus proceed with each pin, and the star will be completed. knee caps.--you commence with casting on eleven loops, and knitting eight rounds; then begin to raise every alternate round until you have forty-seven loops on the pins, knit eleven rounds plain, and then narrow until you have reduced the loops to eleven. take off. knitting footing.--the material is fine cotton, and you cast eleven stitches. knit one row plain. second row, knit one, make one, knit two together, knit three plain, make one, knit two together knit three plain. third row, is the second row reversed; the fourth is the same as the second; and you thus proceed with each row, alternately, for any length you please. a bag knitted the same way, and put over blue or crimson silk, looks extremely handsome. the material for a bag is fine worsted, and you may cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by eleven, taking care to have one additional stitch for each twenty-two; that is, for four elevens, cast on forty-six. double nightcap.--you will find five needles are required. you must cast on two stitches on each of four needles, and in the first row increase two, and in the second one plain stitch in each. in the third row, the centre stitch on each needle must be seamed, and you must increase on each side of it every other row, until you have attained the width required. you then knit the fourth and every succeeding row plain, until the cap is of a sufficient length, say twenty-four to twenty-eight inches, then decrease the first row, and make the other end to correspond with the one first knitted. dotted knitting, for baby's shoes, &c.--cast on and knit as many rows as you desire, knitting one stitch plain, and the next pearled. begin every other row with a pearled stitch. an odd number of stitches are required, and no. 8 needles. knitted fringe.--this may be made of any material deemed most suitable for the purposes to which it is to be applied. cast on eight stitches. first knit two, then make one by bringing the cotton round the needle, and knitting it when it occurs in the next row; then knit two stitches together, knit one, make one as before, knit two together, knit eight, and so proceed to the end of the row. when you have knitted as many rows as you require, cast off five stitches and leave three, to be unravelled, for the fringe. they may be knitted in two or more colors, taking care to knit them in equal spaces; that is, with an equal number of stitches in each color. gentleman's travelling cap.--you first cast on an even number of stitches, and thus proceed; the first row is plain; then slip off the first stitch in each row, and make one, by bringing the material in front; then slip a stitch the contrary way, knit the next, and so proceed to the end of the row: you commence the next by slipping a stitch as before; then knit two stitches together to the last, which is to be knitted plain: repeat these rows alternately. herring-bone purse.--the number of stitches must be so as to be divided by four. the silk is to be brought forward, then slip one, knit one, and bring the slip stitch over it. knit one, again bring the silk forward, pearl one, and so repeat. this purse should be knitted with second sized netting silk, no. 13. half handkerchief.--this is extremely pretty, when properly executed. begin with one stitch to form the point, and knit as many rows, increasing one each row as is required to give you seven loops upon the pin. you must increase always at the same end: then commence the pattern. make one stitch, slip one, and knit two stitches together, putting the slipped stitch over the two knitted as one. repeat this until you have got to four stitches from the end; then again make a stitch, and knit the remainder plain. the next row is to be done in pearl stitch, and the succeeding one as the first pattern. every row of pearl stitch must be increased one, and the three last stitches are to be knitted plain. this handkerchief must be one yard and a quarter long on the straight side. when completed, fasten off. habit shirt.--these are worn under a shawl, and are extremely comfortable: they protect the chest from cold. the material most proper for them is floss wool, and they should be knitted with steel pins. you knit the front first, and begin by casting on as many loops as will form the length required. as it is necessary that one end should be a good deal more sloped than the other, you must be careful to increase at the end most sloped, at each end of the row; but at the other, you are only to increase at the end, and not at the beginning: having knitted one of the fronts, knit the other to match it, and then begin the back. commence at the bottom, or narrow part of the waist, and increase at each end of every row, until it is wide enough to reach from one shoulder to the other, and then decrease at both ends of each row for the neck. you then finish the centre stitches, and knit up first on one side and then the other, decreasing each row, until a proper hollow is obtained. you then knit the collar straight, and of any depth you please. make up, by sewing the various parts together, and set on a ribbon to the back, to tie round the waist, and another to secure it at the throat. harlequin quilt, with tucks.--this is done in double knitting stitch, with six threads fleecy. the pieces are six inches square. each square consists of about 24 stitches, and they are to be sewn together with a tuft of wool, black or white, at each corner. the square should be knitted in at least three colors, including white; in a quilt one yard and a half square, there will be 225 pieces, 113 of which should be white. make the tufts as follows: wind four-thread fleecy about 12 times round a grooved wooden mesh, one inch in width: then slip a coarse thread in the groove, and tie the wool quite tight, but taking care that an end is left to it, which can be drawn through and fastened to the quilt. the loops of wool are to be cut through on the other side of the mesh; after which it is to be combed and dressed as neatly as possible. pattern for a light scarf.--cast on the number of stitches required upon no. 18 needles, and any kind of material you choose; three-threads fleecy is generally preferred. knit one plain stitch, then two together, and so on alternately, to the end of the row: each succeeding one is but a repetition of the first: it may be done in stripes, with various colors. plain knitted muffatees.--for these you will require four needles. on three of these cast on an equal number of stitches, according to the size required, and knit each round three pearl and three plain: finish with one plain and two pearl rows. stockings.--cast on first size 73, second 85, third 91, fourth 99, fifth 109, sixth 133. then knit rounds to the commencement of the narrowings, 40, 52, 54, 56, 60, and 74, respectively, according to the sizes given above. the narrowings in the leg are according to the size, 8, 10, 12, 13, 14, and 21. after which you knit 18, 20, 25, 27, 30, or 45 rounds to the heel, which is to be formed in the following manner. the stitches are to be divided in half, taking care to have the seam stitch for the middle, and the heel is to be knitted in alternate turns of plain and pearled stitches. the length, of course, varies in proportion to the size, being 12 turns for the first and second, 13 for the third, 14 for the fourth, 15 for the fifth, and 20 for the sixth. the heel is finished by knitting the nine middle stitches in rows, the same as the heel, and taking up one of the others with the last loop of each row, till all is taken off. there will thus be nine stitches when the heel is finished. having got thus far, you proceed to form the foot as follows. you take up sixteen on each side of the heel, in the second row, and taking them up, you make a seam on each side of the instep, knitting another stitch in the loop under the first and last, which prevents holes in the corners, that would otherwise occur. then narrow every second round on the heel sides of the seam until the number of stitches are the same as those in the instep, or what is commonly called the fore foot needle. you will have for the instep 28, 32, 34, 40, or 46, as the case may be; and the rounds between the heel and toe narrowings, will be 14, 18, 23, 26, 30, and 34, respectively; and the narrowings for the feet will be 6, 8, 8, 8, 9, and 10, on each side, according to the measurement given. you begin the toe by narrowing double at the seams, leaving only the seam stitch between, and narrowing twice with three, and twice with two rounds left between each narrowing: then narrow twice, leaving but one round between, and then every round until sixteen stitches only are left. finish by putting the two needles having stitches on them together. and when two stitches are done in this manner, cast them off, the first over the last, until the whole is taken off the needles. it should be noted, that the stitches in the heel vary with the size of the stocking, and are as follows: first size 29, second 33, third 33, fourth 37, fifth 41, and sixth 45. some workers take off the heel, in the same manner as the toe is here directed to be finished. open-work stockings.--on each needle cast on 52 stitches with fine cotton, knit the welts and raise one stitch for the seam. when you arrive at the narrowings, narrow every eighth row, and when you have 38 stitches on each needle, cease, and knit until the article is completed; then take half the stitches to form the heel, knit 23 loops, and narrow on each side of the seam for three rows. in forming the heel, narrow every row once the fourth loop from the seam, and then the loops must be taken up, the end one as close as possible. take three stitches from each side of the fore foot needle to the other, and knit a round plain; after which, widen every fifth stitch on both sides of the heel. alternate rows of the heel needles are then to be narrowed until only 36 loops remain on each. the stitches to be narrowed are the fifth and sixth from the ends. knit the feet of a proper length, and then narrow at the ends of the needles every other row, until only ten remain on each; narrow every row until you have only three, which you cast off in the usual manner. the open pattern is produced by knitting every fifth round thus: take two stitches in one, and bring the cotton in front of the needle, that it may form a stitch before taking the succeeding two into one. the more open you desire the work to be, the fewer stitches and the finer needles you will require. a night stocking.--this is easily done: cast on 54 stitches on large needles, and pearl every other stitch, narrowing gradually toward the end. socks.--these are very useful articles, and are easy of execution. in the first size there are 49 stitches, in the second 55, and in the third 85; they have 16, 23, or 24 turns to the heel, in which there are 25, 29, or 43 stitches, as the size may require. the instep has 24, 25, or 42 stitches; and the length of the heel is 10, 12, or 14 turns. the length of the foot between the narrowings, is 10, 15, and 28 rounds. corner for a shawl.--this, if properly executed, according to the directions, looks extremely handsome. begin by casting on two loops, to form the point; knit them, and proceed as follows. first row, make a loop, knit the two original ones together, make a loop; you will then have three loops upon the pin; knit four additional rows in plain and pearled alternately, increasing a stitch at the beginning and end of each row, and then on the fifth row you will have eleven stitches. in the next row commence the pattern thus. sixth row begin with six plain stitches, pearl one, knit six plain. seventh row plain knitting. eighth row, knit six plain, pearl one, knit two together, pearl one, knit two together, pearl one, knit six plain. ninth row plain. tenth, knit six plain, pass the material in front to make a stitch, knit two together, again make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, knit six plain. eleventh row plain. twelfth, knit six plain, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, knit six plain. thirteenth row plain. fourteenth, knit six plain, pearl three, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, knit two together, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, pearl three, knit six plain. fifteenth row plain. sixteenth, knit six plain, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl five, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, knit six plain. seventeenth row plain. eighteenth, six plain, pearl three, knit two together, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, knit five plain, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, knit two together, pearl three, knit six plain. nineteenth row plain. twentieth, knit six plain, knit two together, pearl three, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl four, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl four, make a stitch, knit two together, pearl three, knit two together, knit six plain. the twenty-first row is plain, and you then decrease as you increased, knitting the twenty-second row as the twentieth, and so proceed until you have two loops on the pin. the square is then complete. border for the shawl.--having finished the corner, pick up the twenty-one stitches on one side, and knit one row plain; the second row, knit two plain, three pearled, three plain, again pearl three, then three plain, pearl three, knit four plain. the third row knit plain; the fourth row, pearl one stitch, knit one, pearl one, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three together, knit one, pearl one, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl four, knit four plain. fifth row plain. sixth row knit one, pearl one, knit one, pearl one, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, knit one, pearl one, knit one, pearl one, knit two together, make a stitch, knit six plain. seventh row plain. eighth row, same as the sixth. ninth plain. tenth as the fourth. eleventh plain. twelfth as the second, repeat the first three rows, and re-commence the pattern. the shawl must be knitted on the same sized pins as the border and corner, and must have as many loops as there are stitches in the length of the border. the border and corner may be done in two colors, which must harmonize well with each other, and form a good contrast to the shawl itself. chapter xiv. netting. explanation of stitches. netting is another employment, to which the attention of the fair has been directed from the remotest times. specimens of egyptian network, performed three thousand years since, are still in existence; and, from that time, the art, in connection with that of spinning flax, was there carried to its highest state of perfection. with these specimens, are preserved some of the needles anciently used in netting. they are to be found in one of the museums at berlin. the egyptian nets were made of flax, and were so fine and delicate, that according to pliny, "they could pass through a small ring, and a single person could carry a sufficient number of them to surround a whole wood. julius lupus, while governor of egypt, had some of these nets, each string of which consisted of one hundred and fifty threads." but even this fineness was far exceeded by the thread of a linen corslet, presented by amasis, king of egypt, to the rhodians, the threads of which, as we learn from the same authority, were each composed of three hundred and sixty-five fibres. herodotus also mentions a corslet of a similar texture. in connection with other elegant female accomplishments, netting has continued to claim the attention of the ladies of europe, in every advanced state of civilization, and, in the present day, is cultivated with considerable success. netting was a favorite employment of the late queen charlotte, during the latter years of her life. [illustration] plain netting.--take the mesh in the left hand, (having previously made a long loop with twine, and fixed it to any convenient support,) between the two first fingers and the thumb. the netting needle must be threaded with the material, and fastened by a knot to the long loop before spoken of, and the mesh must be held up as close as possible to this knot _under_ the twine. the silk is to be held in the right hand between the fore finger and the thumb and must be passed under and around the left hand, so that the material may be formed into a slack loop, passing over all the fingers, except the little one. in this position, the silk must be held between the upper side of the mesh and the left-hand thumb, and the needle must be passed back, round the pin or mesh, allowing the material to form a larger loop, so as to include the little finger. the needle will thus be brought round, in front of the mesh, and must pass under the first loop, between the mesh and the fingers, and thus through the loop called the foundation loop, and thence over that portion of the material which goes backward for the purpose of forming the second loop. the needle must be kept in its position, till the right hand is so brought round as to be able to pull it through, and then the needle being drawn out and held in the right hand, the worker must disengage all the fingers of the left except the last, which is to retain its hold of the second loop, which was formed by passing the material round it. by means of this hold, retained by the little finger, the material is to be drawn to the mesh, and the knot thus formed be drawn tight to the foundation. this process is to be repeated, until a sufficient number of stitches are formed as are necessary, according to the width of the net desired. as the mesh is filled, some of the loops must be suffered to drop off; and when the row is completed, it must be drawn out, and a row of loops will be found suspended from the foundation by their respective knots, and moving freely onwards. the work is then to be turned over, which will cause the ends of the rows to be reversed; and in netting a second row, it will be done as before from left to right. in commencing the second, and all the succeeding rows, the mesh must be so placed as to come up close to the bottom of the preceding row or loops, and the former process with the needle must be repeated. it will be needful, to have a sufficient quantity of material always wound on the needle, or otherwise it will not move freely round, as it is indispensible it should do. bead stitch.--to execute this stitch properly, requires care, but it is very ornamental. beads of all kinds, may be introduced. in order to net with beads, you must procure a long taper darning needle: the stitch is as follows; string a bead upon the thread or silk you net with: this bead is to be brought to the front of the mesh, and held there until the knot is made; at the back of the mesh, bring the needle and thread, passing the point through the bead which is upon the front of the mesh. the needle and thread are then to be drawn through it, by which means the bead will be brought quite up to the knot just made. by working the beads in this manner, they will be kept stationary upon the thread, and so remain in their places, and impart much beauty to the work. [illustration] diamond netting.--this kind of netting is easy of execution, and looks extremely pretty. it is done by making every other stitch a loop stitch, in order to effect which, the silk must be put twice round the mesh, instead of once, as in plain netting. treble diamond netting is similar, only the process is rather more difficult in execution. after netting three rows plain, at the beginning, the first row is to be composed of one loop stitch, and three plain stitches, repeated until the row is finished: then in working the second row, commence with a plain stitch, then follow with a loop, then two plain stitches, and repeat as before. for the third row begin with one or two plain stitches, make a loop, then net a stitch plain, and repeat the two loops and the plain stitch to the end of the row. for the fourth row you net three stitches in plain netting, then make a loop stitch, and repeat as in previous rows. an attention to this arrangement, will soon enable the young student in net-work, to net in as many stitches as may seem desirable. [illustration] diamond netting, of five stitches.--commence with a long loop, then net five loops plain, repeat to the end of the row, finishing with a long loop. second row, begin with a plain loop, make a loose stitch to meet the short loop in the previous row, and withdraw the mesh before commencing the next loop, work four loops plain, and so proceed. third row is commenced as the second: withdraw the mesh as before, and work three plain loops. begin the fourth row with a plain stitch, work a long loop, then a loose stitch; withdraw the mesh, and work two plain stitches; again withdraw the mesh, work a plain stitch, and so proceed to the end. the fifth is begun with two plain stitches; then form a loose stitch, withdraw the mesh, work one plain loop, again withdraw the mesh, and finish with two plain stitches. the sixth row commences with three stitches plain, then make one loose stitch, and finish with two plain ones. for the seventh row, commence as in the last case; make a long loop, and finish with two plain stitches. the eighth row begins with three stitches in plain netting; withdraw the mesh, net one stitch plain, make a loose stitch, again withdraw the mesh, and finish the row with a plain stitch. in doing the ninth row net two stitches plain, withdraw the mesh, net two more plain stitches, make a loose stitch, again withdraw the mesh, and finish with a plain stitch. the tenth row is begun as the last, but instead of the loose stitch, net a plain one, then make the loose stitch, and withdraw the mesh. the mesh proper for this kind of netting is no. 18, and the silk called second-sized purse twist, is the best adapted for this kind of work. [illustration] dotted netting.--this is easily done. cast on the number of loops you require, and proceed as follows. begin with long loop, in which you next increase two stitches; repeat to the end of the row. none of the rows are at all varied; and you must carefully preserve its uniform appearance, as in that consists its principal beauty. shaded silk netting.--this is beautiful, when the shades blend well together. of course, each row must be worked in one shade, and the next needful must be matched with the utmost care. it is not possible to give minute rules on such a subject: but, in this, as in other things, practice will insure success. [illustration] grecian netting.--this is beautiful, and should be worked with fine silk, and with two meshes, no. 9 and 18; one plain row is to be netted with the large mesh, and then in the next row employ the small one. the silk is twisted round the fingers as in plain netting, and the needle must pass through the finger loop into the first stitch, and thence into the second. then let the second be drawn through the first, and the first through the second, finishing the stitch by releasing your fingers and pulling the material tight. the succeeding stitch is a small loop, that appears to cross the stitches twisted together. these three kinds of stitches form the pattern, and are to be repeated until the work is completed. grecian netting may be employed for a variety of purposes, and you can, of course, vary both the material and the meshes as best accords with the design you are intending to accomplish. [illustration] french ground net.--you must have an even number of loops on the foundation, then proceed. first row, plain stitches and long loops, alternately; second row plain; make a loose stitch, and repeat. begin the fourth with a loose stitch, net one plain, repeat to the end; commence the fifth row by netting one plain loop, make a long loop, and the little loop as in the third row; in coming after the last long loop, the little loop must be exchanged for a plain stitch. another kind of honeycomb netting.--use a mesh no. 17, and set on an even number of stitches. net the first row plain, having the silk round the mesh twice. for the second row you put the silk once round the mesh and net the second loop, having previously half twisted it. then net the first loop plain, net the fourth as the second, again net a stitch plain, and thus proceed with plain and half-twisted stitches, alternately. the third row is the same as the first, and the fourth as the second. these kinds of netting are very pretty for purses, bags, &c., and may be done in different colors if the purse is worked in four or five rows of plain, and the same number of honeycomb netting. [illustration] honeycomb netting.--you are to make an even number of loops, putting the silk twice round a no. 18 mesh, for the second row net with the silk once round the mesh, and put the first stitch through the second at the back, and net it; then the second stitch is pulled through the middle of the first and netted: you do the same with each two of the other stitches, and must be careful not to burst them. for the third row, the silk is put twice round the mesh, and the netting is plain. you proceed thus in alternate rows until the work is done. [illustration] honeycomb netting, with two meshes.--the meshes proper are no. 9 and 16. cast on an even number of stitches, and net the first row plain, with the no. 9 mesh. with mesh no. 16 net the second row, working the second stitch first and the first second, and so proceed netting the fourth stitch, and then the third, and so on to the end. work the third row with no. 9 as before, and the fourth row as the second, only netting the first loop plain, and then taking, first the third, and then the second, and so on to the end, finishing with a loop in plain netting. the next row is done plain with no. 9, the next with no. 16, exactly as the first twisted row. the odd stitch netted plain, only occurs at the commencement of each alternate row of netting done with no. 16. this kind of netting is proper for a veil. [illustration] leaf netting.--this is pretty when executed properly. you should work with cotton, and no. 14 mesh. five loops are required for each pattern. commence the first row by netting two plain loops for the edge, then net three plain, in the next loop increase four, and repeat this operation to the end of the row; finish with two plain loops. begin the second row as before, and collect all the loops increased in each of the twice four loops formed in the last row, into one; then net four loops plain; repeat this to the end of the row, and net two plain as before. the third row is plain netting. the fourth row has two loops netted plain, then two more plain; you then increase four on each of the next two loops, net one plain, and repeat the operation to the end of the row; finish by netting two stitches plain. fifth row, commence as before, net one plain loop, collect the increased loops as the second row, net three plain, and so repeat; net two plain to finish the row. the next row is netted plain. repeat these rows as often as your work requires it to be done. net with points.--this is done by making a foundation of, say, ninety stitches. net on this foundation with any color you please. net fifty stitches and return back again, proceed as before, only decreasing ten stitches, and so go on, until the required point is gained. two colors are required. [illustration] maltese netting, in spots.--this is neat and elegant: it is done as follows. the first two rows are netted plain: you commence the third row by netting seven stitches; the silk is then to be passed round the mesh, and the needle brought under the knot in the second row, but without netting it; that is between the stitch you last netted and the one you are about to net. a loop is then made, which is not to be netted separately, as that would increase a stitch in the next row; but it is to be taken up with the last of the seven stitches previously netted. if you desire the spots to appear very distinct and prominent, let the silk pass twice round the mesh, and afterwards through the loop, and repeat the operation to the end. you may do this spotting, either as it appears in the pattern, or in almost any form you please. [illustration] plain open netting.--this is pretty, and easy of execution. the operation is performed by netting three rows plain, then a row of loop stitches, then three rows plain, and a row of loops as before. you may net to any length you please. the direction here given is all that is necessary, and if duly attended to will enable any young lady to attain proficiency. [illustration] round netting.--you commence making the loops, as in common netting, by twisting the silk round the fingers, then pass the needle and the silk through the finger-loop, and bring it up on the back side of the mesh, between it and the fore finger; the fingers and loop are still to be kept on them as before; the middle is then to be reversed, and brought down through the first loop, (on the foundation,) and taking a slanting direction over the mesh. having drawn it entirely through, you withdraw your finger from the loop, as in ordinary netting. you every succeeding loop in the same way. chapter xv. netting. examples in netting. a purse, with china silk.--make as many stitches on the foundation as you please. net three rows with plain colors, then five with china silk. repeat. a seam purse, with beads.--you will need four skeins of fine silk, and a mesh, no. 8. on a foundation of one hundred stitches, net one plain row. then in the next row, net a plain and a bead stitch successively. net the third row plain, and begin the next with a bead stitch. proceed thus till the purse is completed. a netted bag, with ring.--on a foundation of sixty stitches, net the bag to half the length required; then net in a gilt ring, and finish the bag. draw it up with ribbon, and place a gilded or silk tassel at the bottom. you will require coarse netting silk, and a no. 16 mesh. you may use union cord, or gilt twist, if you prefer it. dice pattern purse.--this is done in two colors, highly contrasted. you must have two skeins of second sized silk, and a no. 10 mesh. on a foundation of ninety-eight stitches, net seven with the darkest color. you net seven rows. then introduce the lighter silk, by joining it to the seventh stitch of the first row of the dark color, and net seven rows upon the succeeding seven stitches of the foundation. you must be careful to loop in the last dark stitch on each row: repeat this process until the purse is of the length you require; of course reversing the squares. in cutting off the silk, you must leave sufficient to make a weaver's knot, with which is to be fastened to the succeeding color. honeycomb mittens.--you commence by casting on fifty stitches; the first four rows are to netted plain: after which, you net one row with the silk, twice round the mesh; again net two rows with the silk round the mesh once: you then commence netting rounds, and net rows as before. the first row is to be netted with the silk twice round the mesh, the second is in honey-comb pattern; the third round is executed as the first, and the fourth as the second; for the fifth round you net eleven stitches with the silk, round the mesh, as in the first row, and make two increased stitches in the twelfth loop; in the next row, you are to net five stitches and increase two, netting the whole, as in the first row; net the seventh like the second, and let this be repeated for the four succeeding rounds, a plain and a pattern round alternately; in the next round, which is plain, pass the silk twice round the mesh, and net seven stitches; increase two stitches in the eighth round and net seventeen in plain and pattern, alternate rounds; in the eighteenth increase two, and net five rounds; again increase two, and net five; and on each side again increase two; net three rounds after the last increase, continuing to net till you arrive at the stitch over the last stitch you increased, and net it to the one corresponding to it on the other side of the thumb; if it does not fit as it ought to do, you must decrease, until that object is secured; you are to finish the thumb, by netting a round with the silk, put twice round the mesh, and two rounds in plain netting; the silk is to be fastened to the side of the thumb, in order to finish the hand: and you are to net plain and pattern rounds successively. when the mitten is nearly the length you wish, finish in the same manner you did the thumb, using double silk. netted cuffs.--the materials are german wool and french floss silk, and the work is executed with a mesh, no. 11, and a small steel one, no. 15. you commence on a foundation of fifty-four loops; and in order to form the right side, you net one row of wool with the large mesh, and three rows of silk with the small one, alternately, till you have netted twenty four rows. then you form the wrong side, by netting one row of wool with the larger mesh, and two rows of the same material with the small one. you will require nine rows netted with the wide mesh, with two narrow rows between each. then net one wide row with wool, having in each loop three stitches; above this, knit one narrow row of silk, and do the same at the other end. you have only to double the cuffs, turning the plain side inmost, and the rows of wool and silk will form a kind of border and finish to the whole. netted cuff with silk and wool.--on a foundation of ninety-six stitches, and with a no. 11 mesh, net one row plain in floss silk. second row the same. then with an ivory mesh of half an inch in width, net one row in german wool. the fourth row is to be done two stitches in one, with wool, using a small mesh. then for the inside half of the cuff, net fourteen rows with the large and small meshes, successively. these to be done in silk and wool alternately. the next three rows to be netted in dark wool. then with the small mesh net two rows in silk, the same color as at the commencement, alternately, with seven rows of wool, in proper shades, and finish with an edge to correspond with the beginning. netted fringe.--use a mesh no. 18, and net the required length, dropping off the stitches on the left. net the next row the same. then with a flat mesh, the width of the fringe, placing the grooved edge downward, net one row. these latter loops are to be cut, and either left as they are, or knitted two and two together, as the taste of the worker may dictate. netted opera cap.--work with one mesh, half an inch wide; and another, smaller, of steel; and begin on a foundation of seventy-four stitches. you must procure in double german wool, two colors that contrast well: commence with the darkest shade, and net with the wide mesh one row; the second is to be netted with the narrow one, and so on alternately: the sixth and seventh are both worked with the narrow mesh: then net five more rows with the wide and narrow meshes alternately: this done, you commence with the other color, and net one row, having three stitches on each loop of the row preceding: you now introduce silk of the same color as that of the wool first used, and net one row with the narrow mesh; in that row all the stitches of the last row, netted in wool, must be taken up separately; the foundation is now to be removed, and rows of the lighter colored wool and silk, are to be netted to correspond. net another piece of work in exactly the same manner as the former, and taking one of the pieces, fold it in the middle, and net one row with the narrow mesh in the centre row of knots; in the piece thus doubled, proceed to net a row with the wide mesh, then two with the narrow one, and again one with the wide mesh. the other piece is then to be folded in the same manner, and united to the former one by netting a row, taking up as before the centre row of knots. this makes the front of the cap appear in four pieces. at the back, in the centre row of knots, net a row with the narrow mesh, to keep it on an even fold. you draw up the cap at the end, and put the strings on. this completes it. [illustration] netted scollop edging.--you work this with a flat mesh, and set on as many stitches as you intend to have scollops. the flat mesh should be no. 3; and you will also require two round ones, one no. 14 and the other no. 18. begin the work as follows. net the first row with the flat mesh, and increase eighteen stitches into each of the loops on the foundation. for the second row, use the mesh no. 14, and net a plain stitch into each loop. then, with the mesh no. 18, net the third row in long loops, by passing the material twice round the mesh; you are to increase two stitches in the same loop, and so continue to the end of the row. in the fourth row you use the mesh no. 14 and leaving all the increased stitches without netting them, net the long loops plain. the fifth and sixth rows are netted plain with the mesh no. 14, which finishes the scollop. plain netted gentleman's purse.--of coarse netting silk, you will require five skeins, and a mesh, no. 13. you must have a foundation of eighty stitches on which to commence, and you net to the length of ten inches. net up the sides and damp it slightly, after which it is put upon a purse stretcher, where it is to be left for a few hours, then take it off and trim it as you please. a lady's purse.--net in the same manner seventy stitches on the foundation, and nine inches in length is sufficient. employ a mesh no. 10, and fine netting silk. two colors may be used, netting five rows with one, and four with the other. plain netted mittens.--begin on forty-eight stitches as a foundation, and net four rows plain; then form the loops, for the ribbon, with a mesh double the size of that you work with. then five rows more are to be netted plain; and in the next you must join both ends, and net one plain round, taking care in the twelfth stitch to increase. again net round, and increase as before. net the remaining stitches. you must then net sixteen rounds, increasing two stitches, to form the thumb, in the same place as the other increased stitches, every other round. join the thumb stitches, and net seven rounds, which is the length of the thumb, decreasing a stitch or two in every round. with the larger mesh you are to net two stitches in every loop, and then net one round, taking the two together. net two or three rounds with a finer mesh: this finishes the thumb. net as many rounds as are wanted for the hand, and finish as before. run in the ribbon, and edge with lace. you must have a no. 12 mesh, and five skeins of silk. [illustration] a plain scollop.--you must cast on one stitch for each scollop: this is the first row. for the second, use a flat mesh no. 1, and increase twenty stitches in each loop. net the third with a round mesh no. 14, netting all the increased loops plain. the two next rows are netted plain, with the same mesh, which finishes the pattern. [illustration] cap border scollop.--you commence with one stitch for each scollop, as in last pattern. for the second row, use the flat mesh no. 1, and increase in each loop twelve stitches. net the third round with the round mesh no. 15, and be careful to net the increased stitches plain. the last row is netted plain, with the same mesh as the preceding one. the cotton used in the netting of these scollops, should be about the size of what is called third-sized purse twist. net cravat.--this is netted with german wool, and with a mesh no. 9. having cast on 400 stitches, in the color you intend first to use, net twenty-three rows in plain netting. then introduce the other color, or white; and again, in the same manner, net twenty-three rows. proceed thus, till you have three stripes of each color: then net the two sides together, and draw up the ends. you may add tassels, if you choose. a net scarf.--this is to be worked with two flat needles, no. 8 and no. 2, and in that kind of silk called _dockers_. you are to commence, by casting on 210 stitches, and netting four rows with the smaller mesh, and thirty or thirty-two with the larger one. these repeated, six times, completes the scarf. you must add the four narrow rows, which will complete the edge. the scarf is to be drawn up at each end, and have tassels attached. a long purse, in points.--upon your foundation loops, put sixty stitches in one of the colors you intend to use, and return on them. then, in the next row, put on forty stitches, the next forty, and so on to ten, always returning on the number last put on, and leaving the ten unnetted. you then, with another needle, introduce your other color, and put on ten stitches upon the foundation loops, commencing ten loops from the sixty of the first color. when you have reached the last of the sixty, which you will do when you have put on the ten, you must draw the mesh out, and pass the needle with the second color, through the concluding stitch of the first, working back upon the second color the ten stitches last introduced. the rest of the row is increased ten; and you must then decrease, as you did with the first color. one pattern is then complete; and you re-commence and proceed as before. chapter xvi. crochet. stitches in crochet. crochet has been long known, but it has only become a favorite with the fair votaries of the needle, during the last few years. it is very difficult to describe, though easy of execution, and can be applied to a variety of useful and ornamental purposes. it is most frequently adopted in working shawls, table covers, pillows, mats, slippers, carriage mats, and a great variety of other things of elegance and utility. silk, cotton, and wool, are employed, and the work is so easy, that a moderate share of attention to details, will make an expert workman. stitches.--these are called plain single crochet, plain double crochet, plain stitch open crochet, and open crochet, with a variety of stitches. it is not easy to describe the manner of working crochet stitch, though it is easy of execution: perhaps the following will be found tolerably correct. take a skein of wool, and having wound it, make a loop at one end, like the first link in a chain; through this draw another, and so on, until the chain is of the length required. each must be made rather tight as it is drawn through its preceding loop. this forms the foundation, and the young worker may then proceed with the article she intends to make. she must pass the needle through the last loop of the foundation, and catching the silk or other material from behind, draw it through and so proceed with every succeeding loop of the foundation, until the row is completed. having thus formed the first row, she must proceed as before to form a second, and so on from right to left, and from left to right, until she has all the rows required. this is the most effectual way we know of for the learner to pursue and she will find that her work is the same on both sides, producing raised and depressed rows in alternate succession. in working she must not generally work backward and forward, but must finish each row separately. plain crochet.--make only one loop in each stitch. in making common purses in crochet, this is the stitch generally employed. plain double crochet.--keep two loops on the needle before finishing the stitch. this stitch is more generally in use than any of the others described. plain stitch open crochet.--this stitch is done in the following manner. to the last link of the foundation chain, crochet five stitches, which must be again crocheted in the fifth stitch of the chain. this is to be repeated to the foundation. the rest of the rows are to be done in the same way, attaching every fifth stitch to the centre one of each loop in the row preceding. this looks extremely well for purses, and it can be varied by employing two or more colors as taste or fancy may direct. [illustration] open crochet.--this stitch is difficult to describe; an attention to the following rules will, we hope, enable the reader to understand it. first make a chain of the length required for the foundation; then work one stitch plain, and bring the material round the needle, which must be passed through the first loop of the chain, through which bring the material, and you will thus have three stitches on the needle. through the two first of these the material must be drawn, which will leave two; through these the material must be again drawn, and that will leave one, through which you are to make one stitch plain, as at the commencement. you then put the material over the needle, and through the fourth link of the chain, and proceed as before. you will thus have one plain stitch between each two double ones, which will leave an open space. [illustration] double open crochet.--this is a similar stitch, only the single stitch is omitted, and the two long stitches are made together, by passing the needle through the next loop without making a stitch. thus you will have two long stitches and one open stitch in succession. [illustration] treble open crochet.--this is exactly like the last, only making three long stitches, instead of two, before every plain stitch. it looks neat and elegant, and may have beads introduced, which produce a charming effect. the following directions will enable the novice to work with beads with freedom and accuracy. thread the beads on a strong silk, and pass one on to the middle stitch of each of the three long ones. this will, of course, place a bead in the centre of each square. beads of various colors may be introduced, so as to form a diamond. a gold or polished steel one should form the centre of each diamond. double stitch crochet.--to work this you have only to take both meshes of the chain, instead of one, as in common crochet. plain stitch elastic crochet.--work backward and forwards, first taking one mesh of the chain, and then the other. the upper mesh must be taken first. bead stitch.--if you wish to work with beads, you must thread all you intend to use, before you begin to work. then when you wish to insert a bead, no matter what the pattern is you are executing, you have only to pass a bead down to the last stitch you have worked, and to fasten it on by working the stitch as usual; but this will leave it on the wrong side; to prevent which, you must bring the crocheting thread to the front, having it on the fore finger of the left hand: by thus keeping the bead in front, and inserting the needle from the back of the stitch you are about to work, you can draw the thread through the back, and make the finishing loop in the common way: you will then find that the bead is on the right side. edge stitch.--to work this stitch you are to draw a loop through the first stitch on the row, or on the round, if you work in rounds, then draw a second loop through the one last made. thus the edge stitch is formed. it is of importance to attend to the regular working of this stitch, because if it is not done, you will lose in each row a stitch. on a round, it is not necessary to work the edge stitch; but when the work has to be turned to work round the contrary way, the edge stitch is indispensible. a raised stitch.--make this by passing the needle through, both meshes of the chain, and working two stitches instead of one, in the same space or hole. to increase or decrease a stitch.--in the former case, make two stitches in the mesh; and in the latter, take two stitches together as one, or miss one. true stitch.--this means to keep the stitches exactly over each other, when working in different colors, so as to conceal the half stitch. this must be done with care: and the more attention is paid to it, the more beautiful will the work appear. to fasten on or off.--the former is done by laying the two ends of the material contrary wise, and working a few stitches with both. the latter process is performed by drawing the material through the last stitch, which must be fastened at the back. a dividing line.--the most general form is that of working two stitches up and down alternately, between the stripes in the groundings; but it can be varied according to taste. what is called making a stitch, at the beginning and end of a row, means making one stitch of a chain before the first and after the last, which new stitches are to be crocheted in the succeeding row. to carry on a thread in double crochet.--it is a very common thing to work a pattern in crochet, in more than one color; when this is the case, it is necessary that the colors, not required, should be so managed, as not to make loops, or stitches, at the back. to accomplish this, they must be worked in the following manner. let the threads, that are not required, be laid along the fore finger of the left hand; and the crochet needle must be inserted in the usual manner, into the stitch; you are to let it go below the threads you are carrying on, and the thread with which you are working is to be drawn at the back, through the stitch, into which you inserted the needle or hook. make the finishing loop as usual, which you carry over the threads, and pull through the two loops you have upon the needle. thus you will make one stitch, and the process is to be repeated as often as your work requires it. joining the threads.--in order that threads may be united neatly and properly, observe the following directions. do not work up the thread quite to the end, but leave a small portion; then, on the fore finger of the left hand, by the end of the thread you are about to commence working with, the end to be toward the tip of the finger, the ball will of course be toward the arm; work over it for about six stitches, proceeding as you do in carrying over the threads; then by the thread you worked with, but on the same finger, and continue with the thread you have last fastened on, and work over it, in the same manner, for about six stitches. the ends are then to be cut, and you work on as usual, with the thread just joined. this is the best method we know, of making the work appear neat, and, at the same time, of securing the required degree of fineness. to increase a stitch in crochet.--the process by which this is done, is as follows. first, make the stitch as usual, then work it again from the hinder or back part of the stitch. this prevents a hole, which would otherwise occur. to take in a stitch.--to do this, two stitches are taken on the needle at the same time, and you work them off as one. we have given the fullest explanation of the various stitches in crochet, that our limited space will allow; and we hope that the directions are so plain that no one will be at a loss to comprehend their meaning. but we cannot promise any votary of this delightful employment, even tolerable success, unless she will assiduously apply her own mind to the various directions. "no one can become an expert needlewoman, who does not think, and think deeply, too." chapter xvii. crochet. examples in crochet. [illustration] crochet edging, for collars, &c.--ascertain the length you will require, and cast on the necessary number of chain stitches; you must use a steel hook no. 19. you will find your labor facilitated by sewing a piece of tape at the beginning and the end of the foundation-row of chain stitch. if the tops be an inch wide, it will form a good beginning and termination. the foundation of chain stitch forms the first row; the second is worked thus; the hook is inserted through the first loop of the foundation; (this will be on the tape,) through which, a loop is to be brought in the usual manner; directly above this, a second loop is worked, which forms the beginning. you now leave the tape, and work two chain stitches; after which, you throw a stitch on the needle, by casting the material over it. then, taking the third loop on the foundation, counting from the one last worked, you insert the hook, passing two loops without working them, and catching the thread from behind, pull it through. thus, you will have on the needle three loops; and you must now throw a stitch on the hook, which is, in like manner, to be pulled through the first loop, near the point. by this, you will still have three loops on the hook. again, throw on a stitch as before, which draw through the two first loops on the end of the hook; then throw on another stitch, which must be pulled through the two loops remaining on the hook. you will then have only one loop upon the needle; and thus one stitch is completed. make two chain stitches, as before, and then perform another stitch; and so proceed, as in the former row, but instead of inserting the hook in the third loop, as before, pass it into the first open portion of the work, and work the stitch over the two chain stitches of the second row, as follows. the needle being inserted into the open space, you are to catch the material in from behind, and draw it through, by which you will have three loops on the hook: then throw a loop on as before, and let it be drawn through the first loop, on the point of the hook. another loop is next to be thrown in, and drawn through the two loops nearest the hook, on which you will now have two loops. you thus complete the stitch, as in the previous row, and so proceed to the end. the next row is the same in all respects; and the fifth is to form a vandyke edge: it is worked in the following manner: the needle is inserted into the open space, and work a double tambour stitch round the chain stitches of the fourth row; then seven chain stitches are to be made and fastened to the two chain stitches of the last row, in the same manner as before. thus one scollop or vandyke is completed, and you work all the others in the same way. [illustration] petticoat crochet edging.--work this in the following manner. first row like the last pattern. the second like the second of the last; and finish with the fifth row of the same pattern. persian cotton, no. 6, is the best material; and you work with a long steel crochet needle, having an ivory screw handle. crochet edging, handkerchiefs.--this is done in three rows, worked as the first, second, third, and fifth rows of crochet edging, for collars. the material is persian thread, no. 12; and you work with a fine steel crochet needle, with a screw handle. insertion, or crochet beading.--you work this, if narrow, as first and second rows of the first pattern; if you have it wider, work it as the third row. it may be either worked with no. 8 or no. 12 cotton, and looks neat and handsome. the following remarks on crochet should be carefully attended to. it is necessary to work this kind of work, rather loose than otherwise, as it is liable to cut, if done over tight. the size of the stitch depends, of course, upon that of the needle; and, therefore, care should be taken, to have them gauged. if a needle will go into the slit, opposite no. 4, but not into no. 5, then it is a no. 4 needle. sofa pillow.--work in six threads fleecy, and with a good sized crochet needle; work as follows. for the first stripe, commence with two rows of the same color; the three next rows, in different shades, of a color that will contrast well with that of the two first; the sixth row must be of a different color, or it may be white. the next five rows are to correspond, reversing the colors and shades. the second stripe is composed of seven rows: the first, three distinct shades of the same color; the middle one, a contrast; and the other three, the same shades as the first, but reversed as before. the third stripe is the same, but, of course, the colors are different. a white row in the middle of each stripe, is, in our opinion, the best. the fourth stripe is a repetition of the first, omitting the color in the first two rows, the fifth of the second, and the sixth of the third. the last stripe is to correspond _exactly_ with the first. turkish pattern, for a table cover.--use a steel needle, and six threads fleecy. form the dividing line of two shades of the same color, say claret, and have four stripes, namely, white, gold color, blue, and scarlet. then, on the white stripe, work the pattern in two greens, two scarlets, two blues, a brown, and a yellow. on the gold color, in two blues and one claret, white, lilac, and green. on the blue, in two scarlets, two greens, one drab, white, brown, and orange. and on the scarlet, one green, one white, two blues, a claret, and a bright yellow. we have merely given the colors in the above, as a specimen, and to assist the youthful artist in the formation of habits of arrangement. she can, of course, adopt any colors and shades she pleases; and the more she employs her own thought and judgment, the more original will her work appear. a plain crochet bag, in silk.--begin at the top with a chain, of one hundred and fifty stitches. the material to work with, may be any kind of silk that is proper for the purpose, and of any color that may be deemed desirable. on this foundation, a plain row is to be worked, and then a row in two colors, in two stitches of each alternately. the second color is employed to form the ground of the pattern. work one plain row, and then work large stars, in a color to contrast with the plain ground. between the large stars, work small ones, in a different color. one row of plain ground is to be crocheted on each side of the pattern; and before commencing the second stripe, repeat the row of two colors in two stitches of each. the ground of the next stripe is to contrast highly with that of the former one. the larger stars should also be well contrasted; but, all in the same stripe, must be of the same color; all the small stars should be alike. the stripes are to be repeated successively, until the bag is completed. a greek cap, in coarse chenille.--with a chain of six or eight stitches, begin at the top, and having united the ends, work round and round, in rows, until it is eight inches across. you must increase your stitches, in each row, so as to preserve the work flat. work the stitches in open crochet, and between every two rows, it will be best to introduce a few plain lines, in black and gold. this cap is extremely elegant. a crochet neck chain.--commence with fine plain stitches; then put the needle through the back of the second, and make one stitch plain. by twisting the chain, after every stitch, you will find that one stitch appears to cross; that stitch is the one to be next taken, and crocheted. a plain crochet purse.--this purse is made with middle-sized netting silk, and is strong and durable. a chain is to be made of one hundred and forty stitches, of any color you prefer, on which, you are to crochet three rows plain in the same color. then, five rows, in a color making a good contrast. repeat these stripes as many times as are requisite, and crochet up the sides. draw up the ends, and trim the purse. we deem it unnecessary to add more examples in crochet, as without engravings, they would not be understood. this kind of work is capable of being applied to an almost indefinite number of purposes; but in almost all cases, though easy of execution, the patterns are not easy to be described in writing. we have, however, done all that is required, to afford an insight into this kind of needlework; and have shewn that for purses, bags, caps, neck chains, &c., it can be readily brought into requisition. much care and judgment are required in the arrangement of colors, as on this, almost the whole beauty of the work depends. chapter xviii. tatting. explanation of stitches. [illustration] tatting open stitch.--take your tatting needle, and, having threaded it with the appropriate material make a knot at the end. in order to make the loops, put the knot just made on the fore finger of the left hand, and form also a loop round the second, third and fourth fingers, extending them for that purpose. these loops are made by carrying the thread round the back of them, bringing it to the fore finger again, so as to pass over the knot. in this position they must be held tightly down by the pressure of the thumb. you will observe that the thumb and fore finger are never to be moved while you form the scollop, but you are to bring the needle and thread toward you in a straight direction from the fore finger and thumb, between the second and third fingers: the needle is then to be inserted from behind the finger loop, up through the middle, between the thread which is on the needle, and the thread round the fingers. you must be careful to have the thread (on the needle) between you and the needle, after you have drawn it through. from the right hand to the left the needle must be extended as tight as possible, leaving loose the loop which is round the finger as you make the stitch with the loop, and not with that portion of the thread which is next the needle. you are to withdraw the second finger, and allow the loop round the fingers to form round the thread. the fingers are then to be again inserted, and form the stitch with the second finger by drawing it up to its proper place, close to the thumb. this will finish the stitch. for the next, cast the thread over the back part of the hand, instead of bringing it to you as in the former stitch, and let the needle be inserted down through the finger loop, between the first and second fingers; then draw it up through between the two threads over the back part of the fingers, and form the stitch with the second one, as in the previous stitch. you work the third stitch the same as the first, only longer, that it may form a long loop. repeat the second stitch, then the long loop; and thus proceed until you have seven loops: after this, the thread is to be drawn up, so as to form the scollop. [illustration] star tatting.--the material for this kind of work is bobbin, such as is generally used for children's caps. you have only to work six scollops and draw them up close, so as to form a star. when made with precision and regularity, they present a neat appearance. star tatting is well adapted for trimmings to a great many articles of apparel and ornament. [illustration] common tatting edging.--make the loops, and work the first stitch as in the first pattern; then work twenty stitches the same way to form the scollop. when it is finished, you must draw up the thread tight, and then commence another. if it has been properly done, the scollop will draw freely. chapter xix. concluding remarks. in bringing the ladies' work-table book to a close, we cannot persuade ourselves to dismiss the subject, without a word or two to our fair friends, as to the use, necessary to be made, of all the useful or ornamental accomplishments their circumstances and situations may enable them to acquire. we should never, for one moment, suffer the utile to be absent from our thoughts: she who has no definite aim in what she does, can never have any good ground of hope, that, in her progress through life, she can attain to excellence. these remarks apply principally to that large class, who are dependent upon exertion of some kind, for the means of comfort and respectability, in their respective stations. but, as those ladies, whose circumstances render a practical acquaintance with the arts here treated of, a matter of indifference, a knowledge of them is, by no means, unnecessary. in many ways indeed, a lady, blessed with affluence, may render an acquaintance with the details of needlework extensively useful. it is often the case that young persons are engaged in families, whose education has been, from some cause or other, lamentably neglected. in those cases, the lady who feels her obligations, and is actuated by a true christian spirit, will consider herself as standing in the place of a mother to her humble dependents; and, under a deep sense of her high responsibilities, will endeavor to improve, and fit them, by suitable and kindly-imparted instructions, for the proper discharge of the duties of that station, which it may be presumed they will in after days be called upon to fill. in this case, how useful will the kind and careful mistress find a knowledge of that art, which teaches the proper method of making those articles of dress which are so essential to every family who, however humble, are desirous of securing the respect of the wise and the good, by judicious economy, and a neat and respectable appearance. those ladies who are in the habit of devoting a portion of their time to the superintendence of our female charity schools, will also find such knowledge extremely beneficial. to those who are disposed to follow the example of the holy dorcas, in providing garments for the deserving and destitute poor, an acquaintance with _plain needlework_ is indispensible; and indeed, it will, in every walk of life, be found useful to her who is, by the animating love of the lord jesus, disposed "to seek the wretched out, and court the offices of soft humanity." another advantage may also be gained, by a manifestation of the kindly solicitude for the improvement of domestics, here pointed out. in cases where the secular tuition of young persons has been neglected, it will be generally found that their religious and moral training has been equally uncared for. let the christian lady evince a real desire to improve the temporal condition of those beneath her influence, and she will soon find that the best affections of the heart are opened to the reception of instructions of a higher and still more important character. hard indeed must be that heart which can resist the influence of genuine kindness exercised in a friendly christian spirit. we once had the pleasure of seeing a young servant baptized in the faith of christ, while those in whose service she was, and two others, highly respectable persons, answered for her at the font. this beautiful meeting together of the rich and the poor, took place in one of the most splendid parish churches in england, and left on our minds an impression which will never be effaced. in the foregoing pages we have endeavored to lay before the young votary of the needle, such instructions as we hope will be found sufficiently clear to enable her to produce many a delightful specimen of her assiduity, taste, and judgment. we have sought to be concise, without being obscure; and to give plain directions, without making our readers mere imitators, or copyists. one fault which is to be found in all the books on these subjects, which we have seen, we have carefully avoided; that is, the giving a list of the various colours to be employed in the fabrication of each example given. nothing can be more absurd, and mischievous than this. the young work-woman can only exercise her judgment, to any extent, in this department of her labors. the various stitches she must form according to the prescribed rule; because, in most instances, they can be performed in no other manner; but in the choice of materials, and colors, she should have free scope: here judgment, taste, and fancy, should range untrammelled by rules and forms; and yet this is rarely done, because the lady is taught to rely upon her patterns, and scarcely ever to consult her own sense of beauty or propriety. we see the effect of this, in the sameness, and monotonous appearance of almost all kinds of fancy-work: and we have endeavored to do our best, to introduce a more correct taste and principle into this department of the elegant arts, in which females are engaged. we know that much native genius exists among our fair countrywomen; and we wish to see it expand, as freely as the refreshing breeze, that sweeps over our native hills. we have before alluded to the various and interesting uses to which the needle can be applied, and the high moral ends it is so well calculated to promote: and if such be its importance, then it will be readily admitted by all, that he who has made the most improvements, and produced the most finished specimens of this all-important instrument, has conferred a real benefit upon his race. we have a higher end in view, than promoting the acquisition of accomplishments, however elegant or pleasing. we wish to direct the minds of those whom we are thus endeavoring to interest and instruct, to the immortal beauties of moral excellence. these works may be made conducive, in a high degree, to the development of family affection, and the promotion, to a vast extent, of the purposes of genuine charity, benevolence, and friendship. but there is yet a higher kind of use, to which we would apply them. we would have the young lady, who is becoming expert and clever at her needle to reflect, as the beautiful fabric grows beneath her forming hand, that her work, and the power and skill to plan and execute it, is an emanation of the immortal mind; of that mind, whose creative powers are a faint, but legible transcript of the omnipotent wisdom of the deity. this thought gives a permanency to what would, in any other light be only transitory as the summer cloud. it is omnipotent wisdom and power, which has contrived and executed all the beautiful wonders of creation; and that wisdom and power were called into activity by omnipotent love. we wish to impress this sublime truth upon the mind of our young readers, because we wish them to place their heavenly father before them--as their pattern and example--in all that they take in hand; and to remember that, as he formed the universe by wisdom, from love--so all their actions and elegant contrivances should be the result of judgment, guided by affection--that they may thus become like their father, who is in heaven. indeed, it is only when accomplishments are rendered subservient to the development of moral goodness, that they may become pursuits at all worthy of an accountable being. we were not sent into this world to flutter through life, like the gaudy butterfly, only to be seen and admired. we were designed to be useful to our fellow beings; and to make all our powers and capabilities, in some way or other conducive to the happiness and welfare of our co-journeyers on the path of time. to this end, we wish our fair countrywomen to devote their best attention; and, in its attainment, to exert every energy which they possess. we wish them to make all the knowledge which they may acquire subserve some noble purpose; which will outlive the present hour. but to do this, the well-spring of the purest affections must be opened in the soul; and the elegant productions of taste and genius become vitalized, and animated, by the spirit of love. thus, and thus only, can the occupations of a leisure hour be converted into efficient ministers of good; and such they will assuredly be found, if practised from right motives, and placed in due subordination to the right exercise of more important duties. the young votaress of the needle, of drawing, or of music, should ever bear in mind, that the time employed in those pursuits, will be accounted lost or improved, by the impartial judge of all--just in proportion as they have been made to serve the purposes of selfish gratification, or to minister to the development of an elevated moral character--generous and warm affections--and the cultivation of those virtues, which, as essentials of the christian character, shall outlive the ravages of time, and qualify the soul for all the beatitudes of a coming eternity. in all then that the young lady aims to learn, or to accomplish, let her place a high and moral standard before her, and resolve to render every transaction of her life conducive to her preparation for a higher state of being. our various faculties and powers were not given us to be wasted, but to be used to the honor of our creator--the comfort and welfare of those around us--and, as a consequence of our faithful discharge of our several obligations, conducive, in an eminent degree, to our happiness. no mistake can be more fatal, than an idea that, for what we call trifles, we shall have no account to render. what we call trifles, may be, in their consequence, both to ourselves and others, the most important acts of our lives. it is not by great events that our characters are formed; but by the neglect or performance of our duties in that state of life, into which the wisdom of our heavenly father has seen fit to call us. to elevate the sufferings, soothe the sorrows, increase the comforts, and enhance the joys of all around us, should be the highest aim of a laudable ambition--and every endeavor should be most assiduously devoted to the accomplishment of these important ends. it is, in fact, only when we thus employ our various talents and capabilities, that they are really useful, in any other case, they are only ministers to our personal pride, and selfish gratification, instead of becoming links in that golden chain, by which the faithful performance of appointed duties is elevated to the possession of "a crown of righteousness, that fadeth not away." let, then, the youthful female, as she plies her needle, or exercises her judgment or ingenuity, in the choice of colors or materials, or in the invention of new developments of creative genius, ever remember to exercise those powers as a christian--let her cultivate, in her inmost soul, the conviction, that all her skill and power is imparted from on high--and let her be careful to make all she does, a sacrifice, acceptable to her god, by doing all in the spirit, and under the influence of that sacred charity--that boundless benevolence--which ever rejoices, in making its various capabilities subservient to the good of others, and thus gives to the otherwise perishable occurrences of time, an endurance and a continuity, that shall endure for ever. index. algerine work, 69 angular stitch, 33 applique, 84, 89 apron, girl's, 40 ----, morning, 40 ----, vandyke, 40 ---for a young person, 40 aprons, 38 ----, dress, 39 armorial bearings, 83, 89 baby's cap, 111 ---hood, 112 ---shoe, 112 barege knitting for shawls, 115 basket stitch, 66, 88 bathing gown, 40 bead stitch, 127, 145 bead work, 84 beaufort star, 71 beautiful fringe and border, 113 bed-room linen, 54 bee's stitch, 101 berlin wire stitch, 101 biassing, 35 binding, 59 biroche, a, 111 blankets, 54 border for a shawl, 124 braces, 85 braiding, 59 braid work, 84, 89 brief description of wools, 22 bustles, 41 button-hole stitch, 31 cap border scollop, 140 caps, 41 cashmere shawl, 49 cast off, to, 100 cast on, to, 98 cast over, to, 99 chain stitch, 32, 102 ------on gathers, 34 checked patterns, 115 chenille embroidery, 80 chess pattern, 71 child's collar, 41 cloaks, 42 close stitch for waistcoats, 115 comforter, a, 113 comforter, another, 113 common plait, 101 common tatting edging, 155 coral pattern, 35 corner for a shawl, 122 corners, to fill up, 69 cravats, 42 crochet edging, for collars, 148 ------for hdkfs., 150 ---neck chain, 152 cross stitch, 65 crow's-foot stitch, 102 diagram, 61 diamond netting, 128 ------5 stitches, 128 dice pattern, 72 ------purse, 135 dinner napkins, 56 dividing line, a, 146 dotted knitting, baby's shoe, 117 ---netting, 129 double cross stitch, 65 ---diamond, long stitch, 72 ---herring-boning, 34 ---knitting, 103 ---nightcap, 117 ---open crochet, 144 ---plait stitch, 69 ---stitch crochet, 144 ---straight cross stitch, 65 dressing table covers, 55 dress shawl, 49 dutch common knitting, 104 edge stitch, 145 elastic rib, 105 embroidery, 88 ---in wool, 80 ---with silk, 79 embossed diamond, 104 ---hexagon stitch, 104 fancy bobbin edging, 34 ---button-hole stitch, 31 ---chain stitch, 31 ---herring-boning, 33 fantail stitch, 105 fasten on, to, 100 ---off, to, 146 feather stitch, 67 french ground net, 130 ---stitch, 105 frills, 42 frame, to dress for cloth work, 82 ----, to dress for cross stitch, 82 ----, to dress for tent stitch, 83 gathering, double, or puffing, 30 ----, 30 gem, or set patterns, 85 gentlemen's belts, 43 ---braces, 89 ---collars, 43 ---fronts, 43 ---travelling cap, 118 ---waistcoats, 85, 89 german knitting, 105 ---pattern, 72, 88 gobelin, 85 ---stitch, 66 grecian netting, 130 greek cap, coarse chenille, 152 habit shirt, 119 half handkerchief, 118 harlequin quilt, with tufts, 119 heart pattern, 73 hemming, 29 ----, german, 29 herring-bone bag stitch, 106 ---purse, 118 herring-boning, 33 honeycombing, 36 honeycomb mittens, 136 ---netting, 131 -------, with two meshes, 131 ----, another kind, 130 ---stitch, 106 horse-shoe stitch, 34 housemaid and kitchen linen, 57 imitation net-work stitch, 106 indian scarf, 49 insertion, crochet beading, 150 instructions in grounding, 91 irish diamond, 73 ---stitch, 66 jelly bag, 58 joining the threads, 146 knee caps, 116 knit herring-bone stitch, 107 knitted footing, 117 ---fringe, 117 ---muff, 114 knitting stitch, 99 lace, 73, 88 ---wave stitch, 107 ladies' drawers, 43 ---flannel waistcoats, 44 ---night jackets, 44 ---purses, 139 ---walking shawls, 50 landscapes, 85 leaf netting, 132 long purse, in points, 141 loop stitch, 100 making buttons, 60 maltese netting in spots, 133 mantuamaker's hem, 29 materials for plain needlework, 17 ---for embroidery, 21 ---for fancy needlework, 20 ---for knitting, netting and crochet, 21 marking, 59 medallion pattern, 90 mosaic work, 86, 89 moss stitch, 107 mourning shawls, 50 narrowing, 99 necessary implements in crochet, 26 necessary implements in fancy needlework, 25 necessary implements in knitting, 25 necessary implements in netting, 25 neck and pocket handkerchiefs, 45 net cravat, 141 ---scarf, 141 ---with points, 132 netted bag, with ring, 135 ---cuffs, with silk and wool, 137 ---cuffs, 137 ---fringe, 138 ---opera cap, 138 ---scollop edging, 139 night gowns, 45 ---stockings, 122 open cross stitch, 108 ---crochet, 143 ---hem, 107 ---work stockings, 121 ornamental ladder stitch, 108 over shoe, 114 pantry linen, 56 pattern for a light scarf, 120 patterns on canvas, 86 pearl stitch, 99 perforated card, 86, 89 petticoat crochet edging, 149 petticoats, 46 ----, flannel, 46 pillow covers, 54 pinafore, 47 pincushion covers, 55 pine apple purse, 115 ------stitch, 108 piping, 60 plain crochet, 143 ---crochet bag, in silk, 151 ------purse, 152 ---double crochet, 143 ---knitted muffatees, 120 ------gentleman's purse, 139 ---netted mittens, 139 ---netting, 126 ---open netting, 133 ------stitch, 109 ------elastic crochet, 144 ---stitch open crochet, 143 ---scarf, 48 ---scollop, 140 plaiting, 60 pockets, 48 point stitch, 68, 88 porcupine stitch, 109 princess royal, 74, 88 pudding cloth, 58 purse, with china silk, 135 queen stitch, 68 queen's vandyke, 68 quilts, 54 raised embroidery, 80 ---stitch, a, 145 ---work, 93 raising, 99 rib, to, 99 ribbon scarf, 48 roman pattern, 74 round netting, 133 rough cast stitch, 110 row, a, 99 rug bordering, 87, 88 running, 29 russian pattern, 74 scale of canvases, 21 seam, to, 99 seam purse, with beads, 135 serpentine stitch, 35 sewing and felling, 29 shaded silk netting, 129 sheets, 54 shifts, 50 shirts, 51 single plait stitch, 68 slip stitch, 100 socks, 122 sofa pillow, 150 star pattern, 90 ---tatting, 154 ---with eight points, 116 stitches in crochet, 142 stitching, 30 stitch, to take in a, 147 ----, to increase or decrease a, 145 ----, to incr. in crochet, 147 stitches, to cast on the loops or, 98 stockings, 120 straight cross stitch, 65 strong knitted purse, 114 suggestions as to patterns, 77 table cloths, 56 ---linen, 56 tatting, open stitch, 153 tent stitch, 64 thread, to bring forward a, 100 ----, to carry on a, in double crochet, 146 towels, 55 travelling shawl, 50 treble open crochet, 144 true stitch, 145 tucks, 60 turkish pattern for a table cover, 151 veils, 52 velvet stitch, 69 victoria pattern, 75 wave pattern, 75 ---knitting, 110 welts, 100 whipping, 31 windsor pattern, 76 wire work, 87, 89 working berlin pattern, 93 ---figures, 89, 92 zephyr, a, 114 the end. transcriber's note the following typographical errors were corrected. iv human felicity changed to human felicity. v fair one changed to fair one. v then, how, to fabricate changed to then, how to fabricate vi form and utilty changed to form and utility ix netting of a purse, changed to netting of a purse. 18 very difficult t changed to very difficult to 19 both sides, this changed to both sides. this 20 materials foe changed to materials for 21 knitting netting, changed to knitting, netting, 22 than others changed to than others. 22 wool.--this changed to wool.--this 22 yarn, for mitts, changed to yarn, for mitts. 24 her to devise changed to her to devise. 25 tissue paper changed to tissue paper. 27 extacy;" changed to extacy; 27 native sky. changed to native sky." 28 principal stiches changed to principal stitches 29 thread with out changed to thread without 30 gathering changed to gathering. 30 are gathered, then changed to are gathered. then 33 appropriate situations changed to appropriate situations. 34 intricate to describle changed to intricate to describe 36 must take grest changed to must take great 38 visiter changed to visitor 41 colico, ore changed to calico, are 44 adies' night jackets. changed to ladies' night jackets. 48 wrong, side changed to wrong side 48 plain scarf changed to plain scarf. 51 another meth d changed to another method 55 into the other, changed to into the other. 60 in the middle changed to in the middle. 60 like a star changed to like a star. 64 painting in oil, changed to painting in oil. 65 cross stitch changed to cross stitch. 65 this is a stich changed to this is a stitch 66 arrangment changed to arrangement 67 same color changed to same color. 70 unavailable repentance changed to unavailable repentance. 71 increas-increasing changed to increasing 72 inprovement changed to improvement 76 is complete changed to is complete. 76 ane xtremly changed to an extremely fn 79-* the footnote marker was missing on the footnote 80 chenille embroidery changed to chenille embroidery. 81 perseverence changed to perseverance 83 restored to changed to resorted to 84 braided with ther changed to braided with their 85 lavendar changed to lavender 88 chapter x changed to chapter x. 88 considerable size changed to considerable size. 89 assidously changed to assiduously 93 the, first changed to the first 96 forgotton changed to forgotten 96 incovenience changed to inconvenience 98 lee., m. a, changed to lee, m. a., 98 first intoduction changed to first introduction 98 the means changed to the means, 99 pearl stitch changed to pearl stitch. 100 note, in cas tingon changed to note, in casting on 102 other three stiches changed to other three stitches 102 that tbe pins changed to that the pins 103 previous methods changed to previous methods. 104 stitches, you choose changed to stitches you choose 104 taking careto changed to taking care to 106 loops, and kniting changed to loops, and knitting 107 knit three siitches changed to knit three stitches 111 preceeding changed to preceding 112 five rows o changed to five rows of 113 ancle changed to ankle 113 each stitch; the changed to each stitch. the 114 fringe and borber changed to fringe and border 115 knitting three stiches changed to knitting three stitches 118 when it ouccurs changed to when it occurs 120 pattern for a light scarf changed to pattern for a light scarf. 120 generaly changed to generally 122 every other stich changed to every other stitch 123 eleventh row plain changed to eleventh row plain. 123 make a siitch changed to make a stitch 123 knit two togteher changed to knit two together 124 twenty-seeond changed to twenty-second 127 bottom of the preceeding changed to bottom of the preceding 128 for the fouth changed to for the fourth 129 principal beauty changed to principal beauty. 131 the end work changed to the end. work 134 you every is missing a word, probably "work." this change was not made in the text 134 succeding changed to succeeding 135 ninety-eight stiiches changed to ninety-eight stitches 136 net seven stiches changed to net seven stitches 137 double silk changed to double silk. 137 to the whole, changed to to the whole. 140 loop net changed to loop. net 143 can be be varied changed to can be varied 144 each square, changed to each square. 145 back or the changed to back of the 145 loose in each changed to lose in each 145 to increase or decrease a stitch. changed to to increase or decrease a stitch. 145 conceal the the half changed to conceal the half 146 means meaking changed to means making 150 this is done it changed to this is done in 152 same color changed to same color. 153 take you tatting changed to take your tatting 157 of a highe changed to of a higher 160 puposes of selfish changed to purposes of selfish 161 sooth changed to soothe 163 bedroom changed to bed-room 163 ---on gathers changed to ------on gathers 164 tatting edging changed to tatting edging, 164 fan-tail changed to fantail 165 travelling cap changed to travelling cap, 165 imitation network changed to imitation net-work the index has been standardized to have a , between the index entry and the page number. the following words had inconsistent spelling and hyphenation. cross-way / crossway honey-comb / honeycomb indispensible / indispensable needle-woman / needlewoman needle-work / needlework net-work / network pin-cushion / pincushion vitalized / vitalised [illustration: front cover] _beehive for bairns_ volume 2 _from 1st size to 2 years_ _with special supplement_ bed jackets price 25¢ patons & baldwins, limited * toronto. 10 [illustration: baby cartoon] _to all those who love babies!_ we are pleased to present volume 2 of beehive for bairns--giving an even greater variety of baby garments than volume 1. it still answers the time old question of "what can i make for a baby?" and has these special features: first, the layette. from pages 7 to 18 garments can be made in 3 sizes--for 3, 6 and 9 months. from pages 29 to 47 garments can be made in 3 sizes--for 1, 1-1/2 and 2 years. pram covers and shawls. from pages 51 to 59 a special supplement of lady's bedjackets and each one can be made in miniature for a baby. a lovely gift. an original, and we think, an attractive idea. _all garments are made from especially suitable_ beehive wools:2, 3 and 4 ply beehive fingering * 3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool beehive lustre crepe * 4 ply miss canada andalusian * 4 ply miss canada fingering * p & b superior double knitting * fuzzy wuzzy angora _the best is none too good for baby and the best is patons & baldwins wool_ [illustration: company logo] _=patons & baldwins, limited * toronto, 10=_ [illustration: bye baby bunting] _bye baby bunting_ materials: =3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool=. 14 ozs. one no. 0 steel crochet hook (american gauge). 4-1/2 yds. silk blanket binding or satin ribbon 2 ins, wide. 1 yd. ribbon 1 inch wide. 3 yds. ribbon 1/4-inch width. measurements: 38 ins. × 38 ins. tension: 3 groups and 3 rows = 1 inch. ch. 231 sts. =1st row:= w.o.h. insert hook in 4th ch. from hook and draw loop through. (w.o.h. insert hook in same ch. as last st. and draw loop through) twice. w.o.h. miss next ch. insert hook in next ch. and draw loop through. w.o.h. and draw loop through all 9 loops on hook. ch. 1. (this makes one group). *w.o.h. insert hook in same ch. as last st. and draw loop through. repeat from * twice. w.o.h. miss next ch. insert hook in next ch. and draw loop through. w.o.h. and draw loop through all 9 loops on hook. ch. 1. (thus completing 2nd group). work 112 more groups across row. ch. 2. turn. =2nd row:= w.o.h. insert hook in 3rd ch. from hook and draw loop through. (w.o.h. insert hook in same ch. as last st. and draw loop through) twice. w.o.h. miss next st. insert hook in next st. and draw loop through. w.o.h. and draw loop through all 9 loops on hook. ch. 1. (this makes one group). w.o.h. insert hook in same st. as last st. and draw loop through. complete group and work 112 more groups across row. ch. 2. turn. repeat 2nd row until work measures 29 ins. from beginning. proceed:continue in pattern dec. 1. group at one edge only, every 3rd row 4 times. (note:to dec. a group at beginning of row, omitting turning ch. of previous row, s.s. across 1st. group. ch. 3. to dec. a group at end of row, work to within last group. ch. 2. turn.). dec. 1. group every alternate row 3 times, then every row 10 times. dec. 2 groups at same end on each of next 2 rows. fasten off. to make up: press lightly. bind edges with blanket binding, embroidering with double feather stitching; leave embroidery open at both ends of curve. cut narrow ribbon in half and draw 1 piece through binding along curve; pull out ends. hold cover diagonally, curve at top. measure off 9-1/2 ins. down from top of curved edge on wrong side; mark with pin. with pins complete a curve, having pin mark at centre and ending at outer edges of curve. for casing, sew wider ribbon along this curve, leaving open for 1 inch at centre pin mark. draw other piece of narrow ribbon through casing; tack ends in place and draw a ribbon loop through opening at centre. =(a) baby's coat=--_illustrated on opposite page_ materials: =3 ply beehive fingering=. 2 ozs. pink no. 2019. 1 oz. white. two no. 10 beehive knitting needles. two safety pins. length of ribbon. one stitch holder. measurements: width all round at underarm 17 ins. length from top of shoulder 9 ins. sleeve seam 5 ins. tension: 8 sts. and 10 rows = 1 inch. pattern: =1st row:= with white wool. *k3. sl. 1. knitways. repeat from * to last 3 sts. k3. =2nd row:= *k3. bring wool to front of work as if to purl. sl. 1. purl ways. put wool to back of work. repeat from * to last 3 sts. k3. =3rd row:= as 1st. row. 4th row: as 2nd row. =5th, 6th, 7th and 8th rows:= with pink wool, knit. these 8 rows complete one pattern. the coat is worked in one piece to armhole. with pink wool cast on 127 sts. knit 10 rows garter st. =11th row:= k6. leave these 6 sts. on safety pin. knit to last 6 sts. leave these 6 sts. on 2nd safety pin. working on remaining 115 sts. work 9 complete patterns, then first 4 rows of 10th pattern. work now measures approx 5-1/2 ins. from beginning. =next row:= (5th pattern row). with pink wool k27. turn. leave remaining sts. on st. holder. right front: work 6th, 7th and 8th rows of 10th pattern. work 3 complete patterns, then first 4 rows of 14th pattern. =to shape neck:= at neck edge, with pink wool cast off 12 sts. knit to end of row. work last 3 rows of 14th pattern. work 1 complete pattern, then first 5 rows of 16th pattern. cast off. back: (5th pattern row). join pink wool and knit 61 sts. from st. holder. work last 3 rows of 10th pattern, dec. 1. st. each end of needle on last row. work 5 complete patterns, then first 5 rows of 16th pattern. cast off. left front: work to correspond to right front, being careful to work neck shaping for opposite side. left front border: with pink wool pick up 6 sts. from safety pin and continue in garter st. until same length as front. leave these sts. on safety pin. right front border: with pink wool pick up 6 sts. from safety pin and continue in garter st. until same length as front, ending at neck edge. cast on 50 sts. knit left front border sts. onto end of same needle. 62 sts. on needle. knit 3 rows garter st. =next row:= (eyelets) *k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 2 sts. k2. knit 3 rows garter st. cast off. sleeves: with pink wool cast on 47 sts. knit 11 rows garter st. work 7 complete patterns, then first 7 rows of 8th pattern. work now measures approx. 5 ins. from beginning. cast off. to make up: press all pieces carefully being careful not to flatten garter st. sew all seams. sew borders along fronts. sew neckband around neck. thread ribbon through eyelets. =(d) baby's mitts=--_illustrated on opposite page_ materials: =3 ply beehive fingering=. 1/2 oz. each white and pink no. 2019. two no. 10 beehive knitting needles. length of ribbon. tension: 8 sts. and 10 rows = 1 inch. with pink wool cast on 32 sts. =1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row for 2 ins. =next row:= (eyelets). k2tog. *wl. fwd. k2tog. p1. k1. repeat from * to last 2 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. 31 sts. on needle. knit 3 rows garter st. continuing in pattern as given for coat, (a), work 4 complete patterns. =to shape top: 1st row:= with white wool, *k1. k2tog. sl. 1. knitways. repeat from * to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. =2nd row:= *k2. bring wool to front of work as if to purl. sl. 1. purl ways. put wool to back of work. repeat from * to last 2 sts. k2. =3rd row:= *k2tog. sl. 1. knitways. repeat from * to last 2 sts. k2tog. =4th row:= *k1. sl. 1. purl ways (as given in 2nd row). repeat from * to last st. k1. =5th row:= with pink wool k2tog. to last st. k1. =6th row:= knit. break wool. thread end through remaining sts. draw up and fasten securely. sew up seam. thread ribbon through eyelets at wrist. make another mitt to correspond. =(b) baby's bonnet=--_illustrated on opposite page_ materials: =3 ply beehive fingering=. 1 oz. each white and pink no. 2019. two no. 10 beehive knitting needles. 2 yds. ribbon. measurements: width all round brim (when stretched) 11 ins. tension: 8 sts. and 10 rows = 1 inch. front: with pink wool cast on 67 sts. =1st row:= knit. =2nd row:= k1. k2tog. knit to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. repeat 1st and 2nd rows 4 times. =11th row:= k2. *k1. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to last 3 sts. k3. 83 sts. on needle. proceed in pattern as follows:**=1st row:= with white wool k1. k2tog. sl. 1. knitways. *k3. sl. 1. knitways. repeat from * to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. =2nd row:= k2. *bring wool to front of work as if to purl. sl. 1. purl ways. put wool to back of work. k3. repeat from * to last 3 sts. bring wool to front of work as if to purl. sl. 1. purl ways. put wool to back of work. k2. =3rd row:= k1. k2tog. repeat from * 1st. pattern row to last 6 sts. k3. k2tog. t.b.l. k1.=4th row:= k5. repeat from * 2nd pattern row to last 2 sts. k2. =5th row:= with pink wool k1. k2tog. knit to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. =6th row:= knit. =7th row:= as 5th row. =8th row:= as 6th row.** repeat from ** to ** 4 times. 43 sts. on needle. keeping continuity of pattern dec. 1. st. each end of needle every row to 15 sts. on needle. cast off. back: with pink wool cast on 57 sts. work first 10 rows as given for front. 47 sts. on needle. =11th row:= k9. inc. 1. st. in each of next 28 sts. k10. 75 sts. on needle. repeat from ** to ** as given for front 6 times. 27 sts. on needle. keeping continuity of pattern dec. 1. st. each end of needle every row to 15 sts. on needle. cast off. to make up: press pieces carefully. sew the decreased edge of the front to the decreased edge of the back. make ribbon rosettes and sew to bonnet as illustrated. =(c) baby's slippers=--_illustrated on opposite page_ materials: =3 ply beehive fingering=. 1/2 oz. each white and pink no. 2019. two no. 12 beehive knitting needles. length of ribbon. tension: 9 sts. and 11 rows = 1 inch. with pink wool, beginning with slipper sole, cast on 20 sts. =1st row:= knit. =2nd row:= inc. 1. st. in 1st. st. knit to last 2 sts. inc. 1. st. in next st. k1. repeat 1st. and 2nd rows 4 times. 30 sts. on needle. =next 2 rows:= knit. continue in garter st. dec. 1. st. each end of needle on next and every alternate row to 20 sts. on needle. =next 2 rows:= knit, casting on 8 sts. at end of 2nd row for heel of slipper. =next row:= knit to last 2 sts. inc. 1. st. in next. st. k1. this is for toe of slipper. knit 3 rows garter st. inc. 1. st. at toe edge on 2nd row. proceed:beginning with 1st. pattern row as given for coat, (a), continue inc. 1. st. at toe edge on next and every alternate row to 34 sts. on needle ending at heel edge. break white wool. =next row:= with pink wool cast off 15 sts. join white wool. cast off 1. st. beginning with 1st. pattern row of coat, work to last 2 sts. inc. 1. st. in next st. k1. work 17 rows even in pattern. =next row:= work in pattern to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. (toe edge). work to heel edge. break white wool. with pink wool cast on 16 sts. continue in pattern dec. 1. st. at toe edge on next and every alternate row to 28 sts. knit 1 row. cast off. cuff: with right side of work facing pick up and knit 42 sts. around ankle of slipper. =1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from to end of row. =2nd row:= (eyelets). k2. *wl. fwd. k2tog. p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row once. work 8 rows stocking st. cast off. make another slipper to correspond. to make up: join centre back seam. put back point of sole to this seam and sew sole into position. sew up toe opening. thread ribbon through eyelets at ankle and tie as illustrated. _the layette_ [illustration: (a) coat--_see page 2_. (b) bonnet--_see page 2_. (c) slippers--_see page 2_. (d) mitts--_see page 2_. (e) sleeping suit--_see page 4_. (f) panties--_see page 49_. (g) bootees--_see page 19_. (h) bootees--_see page 17_ _a matching pram cover for a, b, c, d is shown on page 24._] =(e) baby's sleeping suit=--_illustrated on page 3_ materials: =3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool=. 4 ozs. two no. 11 beehive knitting needles. two stitch holders. 10 buttons. one medium crochet hook. measurements: width all round at underarm 18 ins. length from neck to crotch at centre back 12 ins. length of sleeve underarm seam (cuff turned up) 5 ins. length of leg seam including foot 8-1/2 ins. tension: 8-1/2 sts. and 10 rows = 1 inch. back: beginning at shoulder, cast on 50 sts. =1st row:= k4. *p2. k3. repeat from * to last st. k1. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat these 2 rows until work measures 2 ins. from beginning ending with 2nd row. =to shape armholes:= keeping continuity of pattern inc. 1. st. each end of needle on next and every alternate row to 62 sts. on needle, then cast on 5 sts. beginning next 2 rows. 72 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until work measures 5 ins. from beginning ending with purl row. proceed:=1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 5 times. =7th row:= (eyelets). k2. *wl. fwd. k2tog. p1. k1. repeat from * to last 2 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat 1st. row 5 times. with right side of work facing, proceed:=to shape back:= =1st row:= k42. turn. =2nd row:= p12. turn. =3rd row:= k20. turn. =4th row:= p28. turn. =5th row:= k36. turn. =6th row:= p44. turn. =7th row:= knit to end of row. =8th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. leave these sts. on st. holder. left front: beginning at shoulder, cast on 16 sts. =1st row:= k1. p1. (k3. p2) twice. k4. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat these 2 rows once. proceed:=1st row:= (neck edge). k1. inc. 1. st. in next st. (k3. p2) twice. k4. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k1. inc. 1. st. in next st. p1. (k3. p2) twice. k4. =4th row:= as 2nd row. =5th row:= k2. p2. (k3. p2) twice. k4. repeat 4th and 5th rows once. =8th row:= k1. purl to end of row. cast on 10 sts. =9th row:= k7. *p2. k3. repeat from * to last 6 sts. p2. k4. =10th row:= k1. purl to last 7 sts. k7. repeat 9th and 10th rows until work measures 2 ins. from beginning ending with 10th row. =to shape armhole:= keeping continuity of pattern, at armhole edge inc. 1. st. every alternate row 6 times, then cast on 5 sts. once. 39 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until work measures 5 ins. from beginning ending at front edge. proceed:=1st row:= k8. *p1. k1. repeat from * to last st. k1. =2nd row:= *k1. p1. repeat from * to last 7 sts. k7. repeat 1st. and 2nd rows twice. =7th row:= (eyelets). k8. *wl. fwd. k2tog. p1. k1. repeat from * to last 3 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. repeat 2nd row once, then 1st. and 2nd rows twice. =next row:= knit. leave these sts. on st. holder. right front: beginning at shoulder, cast on 16 sts. =1st row:= k4. (p2. k3) twice. p1. k1. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat these 2 rows once. proceed:=1st row:= k4. p2. k3. p2. k2. inc. 1. st. in next st. p1. k1. (neck edge). =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k4. (p2. k3) twice. inc. 1. st. in next st. k2. =4th row:= as 2nd row. =5th row:= k1. *k3. p2. repeat from * to last 2 sts. k2. repeat 4th and 5th rows once, casting on 10 sts. at end of last row. =8th row:= k7. purl to last st. k1. =9th row:= (1st. buttonhole). k1. *k3, p2. repeat from * to last 7 sts. k3. wl. fwd. k2tog. k2. =10th row:= as 8th row. =11th row:= k1. *k3. p2. repeat from * to last 7 sts. k7. keeping continuity of pattern and working a buttonhole in garter st. border at front edge every 10th row, continue to correspond to left front until work measures 5 ins. from beginning ending at side edge. proceed:=1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to last 7 sts. k7. =2nd row:= k7. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. and 2nd rows twice. =7th row:= (eyelets). k2. *wl. fwd. k2tog. p1, k1. repeat from * to last 9 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. k3. wl. fwd. k2tog. k2. repeat 2nd row once, then 1st. and 2nd rows twice. =next row:= knit. with wrong side of work facing, proceed:=1st row:= k7. p32. of right front. p72. of back. p32. k7. of left front. 150 sts. on needle. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= k7. purl to last 7 sts. k7. still working buttonholes in garter st. border at right front as before, repeat 2nd and 3rd rows for 4 ins. ending with knit row. =next row:= cast off 3 sts. purl to last 7 sts. k7. =next row:= cast off 3 sts. knit to end of row. =next row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. continue even in stocking st. until work measures 6 ins. from bottom of ribbing at front, ending with purl row. proceed:k72. turn. leave remaining 72 sts. on st. holder. **working on these 72 sts. continue in stocking st. dec. 1. st. each end of needle on next and every following 4th row to 40 sts. on needle. continue even until leg seam measures 7 ins. ending with purl row.** proceed:=to make foot:= =1st row:= k19. turn. =2nd row:= k1. p13. k1. turn. =3rd row:= k15. turn. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows 8 times, then 2nd row once. =21st row:= k1. k2tog. k9. k2tog. k1. =22nd row:= k1. p11. k1. =23rd row:= k1. k2tog. k7. k2tog. k1. break wool. join wool at inside edge where the 21 sts. were left and knit to end of row. =next row:= k21. pick up and knit 14 sts. along side of foot. knit the 11 sts. across the toe. pick up and knit 14 sts. along the other side of foot and knit the 4 sts. which were left. 64 sts. on needle. knit 9 rows garter st. proceed:=to shape toe:= k23. (k2tog.) twice. k28. (k2tog.) twice. k5. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= k22. (k2tog.) twice. k26. (k2tog.) twice. k4. knit 2 rows garter st. cast off. join wool to remaining 72 sts. and continue in stocking st. repeating from ** to ** as given for other leg. proceed:=to make foot:= =1st row:= k36. turn. =2nd row:= k1. p13. k1. turn. =3rd row:= k15. turn. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows 8 times, then 2nd row once. =21st row:= k1. k2tog. k9. k2tog. k1. =22nd row:= k1. p11. k1. =23rd row:= k1. k2tog. k7. k2tog. k1. break wool. join wool at inside edge where 4 sts. were left. k4. =next row:= k4. pick up and knit 14 sts. along side of foot. knit the 11 sts. across the toe. pick up and knit 14 sts. along other side of foot. knit the 21 sts. which were left. 64 sts. on needle. knit. 9 rows garter st. proceed:=to shape toe:= k5. (k2tog.) twice. k28. (k2tog.) twice. k23. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= k4. (k2tog.) twice. k26. (k2tog.) twice. k22. knit 2 rows garter st. cast off. sleeves: cast on 32 sts. knit 18 rows garter st. =19th row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 19th row 13 times. =next row:= k1. *inc. 1. st. in next st. purl ways. p2. repeat from * to last 4 sts. p1. inc. 1. st. in each of next 2 sts. purl ways. k1. 43 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= *k3. p2. repeat from * to last 3 sts. k3. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat these 2 rows until sleeve measures 5 ins. (cuff turned up) ending with purl row. =to shape cap:= *keeping continuity of pattern, cast off 2 sts. beginning next 2 rows then 1. st. beginning following 2 rows.* repeat from * to * to 13 sts. on needle. cast off remaining sts. collar: cast on 16 sts. knit 8 ins. even in garter st. cast off. to make up: press all pieces carefully. sew all seams. sew in sleeves. sew collar in position placing the ends 2 sts. from the edge of each front. sew the cast-off sts. in position at front. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. with double wool crochet a cord. thread through eyelets at waist. make and sew a tassel to each end. [illustration: bb logo] _needles and tension_ used in this book to make it easy for you the following paragraph shows you how to use the needle and tension charts below. for example: baby's cross-over pullover (see page 16) wool 3 ply beehive. size 3 mos. needles no. 11. tension 8-1/2 sts. (the * shows how this reading was made) wools used and the sizes of needles used for +----+----+----+----+-----+---- | *3 | 6 | 9 | 1 |1-1/2| 2 |mos.|mos.|mos.|year|years|years ----------------------------------+----+----+----+----+-----+---- 3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool| 13 | 12 | 11 | 13 | 12 | 11 2 ply beehive fingering | 12 | 11 | 10 | | | *3 ply beehive fingering |*11 | 10 | 9 | 11 | 10 | 9 4 ply beehive fingering | 10 | 9 | 8 | 10 | 9 | 8 4 ply miss canada andalusian | 11 | 10 | 9 | | | 4 ply miss canada fingering | 10 | 9 | 8 | 10 | 9 | 8 miss canada crochet-knitting wool | 10 | 9 | 8 | 10 | 9 | 8 beehive lustre crepe | | | | 11 | 10 | 9 fuzzy wuzzy angora | 9 | 8 | 7 | | | ----------------------------------+----+----+----+----+-----+----=tension:= when using the above wools and needles, be sure your work measures the exact tension as given below: for each size of needle used, the correct number wools used size of needles of stitches to 1 inch is given below. work to produce this tension exactly. +-----+-----+-----+-----+------+-----+---- | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 +-----+-----+-----+-----+------+-----+---- 3 ply beehive non-shrink | | | | | | | baby wool | | | | | 8-1/2|9 |9-1/2 2 ply beehive fingering | | | | | 8-1/2|9 |9-1/2 3 ply beehive fingering | | |7-1/2|8 |*8-1/2| | 4 ply beehive fingering | |6-1/2|7 |7-1/2| | | 4 ply miss canada | | | | | | | andalusian | | |7-1/2|8 | 8-1/2| | 4 ply miss canada | | | | | | | fingering | |6-1/2|7 |7-1/2| | | miss canada | | | | | | | crochet-knitting wool | |6-1/2|7 |7-1/2| | | beehive lustre crepe | | |6-1/2|7 |7-1/2 | | fuzzy wuzzy angora |5-1/2|6 |6-1/2| | | | +-----+-----+-----+-----+------+-----+---- no. of stitches to 1 inch bed jackets --------------------------------------------------------- wools used size of needles +-------+-------+------ | bust | bust | bust |34 ins.|36 ins.|38 ins. ----------------------------------+-------+-------+------ 4 ply beehive fingering | 10 | 9 | 8 4 ply miss canada andalusian | 11 | 10 | 9 beehive lustre crepe | 11 | 10 | 9 miss canada crochet-knitting wool | 10 | 9 | 8 as baby garments and bedjackets are more loosely fitted than tailored garments a change of size in needles is satisfactory for change in size of garment. =baby's crocheted jacket--"peggy"=--_opposite_--_also illustrated on page 56_ materials: =3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool=. 3 ozs. sky blue. (_6 mos.--3 ozs._) (_9 mos.--4 ozs._). one no. 1 steel crochet hook. (american gauge). 2/3 yd. ribbon 1 inch wide. 1 yd. ribbon 1/2 inch wide. measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= width all round at underarm 18 ins. 19 ins. 19-1/2 ins. length from top of shoulder 9-1/2 " 10 " 10 " length of sleeve underarm seam 5 " 5-1/2 " 6-1/2 " tension and shell pattern as given for crocheted bonnet, see next column. _the instructions are written for size 3 mos. sizes 6 and 9 mos. are written in brackets thus:=( )=._ beginning at neck edge ch. 48 sts. =1st row:= 1. s.c. in 2nd ch. from hook. 1. s.c. in next ch. 3. s.c. in next ch. (left front shoulder). 1. s.c. in next 7 ch. 3. s.c. in next. ch. (left back shoulder). 1. s.c. in next 25 ch. 3. s.c. in next ch. (right back shoulder). 1. s.c. in next 7 ch. 3. s.c. in next ch. (right front shoulder). 1. s.c. in next 2 ch. ch. 3. turn.= 2nd row:= 1. s.c. in 2nd ch. from hook. 1. s.c. in next ch. (2 increases). 1. s.c. in next 3. s.c. 3. s.c. in next s.c. *1. s.c. in each s.c. to centre st. of next 3. s.c. group. 3. s.c. in next s.c. repeat from * twice. 1. s.c. in next 3. s.c. insert hook again in last s.c. of previous row. draw loop through. w.o.h. draw through another loop. (thus making foundation ch.). w.o.h. draw through remaining 2 loops. (1. s.c. increased). insert hook in foundation ch. just made and increase 1 more s.c. in same manner. ch. 3. turn. continue in s.c. inc. 2. sts. at each end of row and working 3. s.c. in centre st. of each 3. s.c. group, every row, 6 times. omitting increases at each end of row, continue in s.c. as before until work from beginning measures 2-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--2-3/4 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--3 ins._=)= ending at left front edge. do not break wool. left front: work in shell pattern to centre s.c. of next 3. s.c. group. ch. 1. turn. continue even in pattern until shell section measures 6 ins. =(=_6 mos.--6-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--6-1/2 ins._=)=. fasten off. right front: join wool at right front edge and work to correspond to left front. back: join wool to centre s.c. of the 3. s.c. group at right and work in pattern across back to corresponding st. at left. continue even in pattern until shell section measures 6 ins. =(=_6 mos.--6-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--6-1/2 ins._=)=. fasten off. sleeves: join wool to centre s.c. of 3. s.c. group at right of shoulder section and work in pattern across armhole to corresponding point at left. ch. 1. turn. work 5 ins. even in shell pattern. =(=_6 mos.--5-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--6-1/2 ins._=)=. fasten off. collar: join wool at right front edge. work 2 rows s.c. along neck edge. =3rd row:= work in s.c. increasing 5. s.c. across row. repeat 3rd row 4 times, being careful not to increase over the increased sts. of previous rows. =next row:= *work 3 shells. (1. s.c. 1. d.c. 1. s.c.) in next s.c. 1. s.s. in next s.c. (this increases 1 shell). repeat from * to end of row. work 5 rows even in shell pattern. fasten off. make up as given for "margaret", see page 56. * * * * * =crocheted cover=--_continued from page 7_ press carefully on wrong side. thread ribbon over and under groups in centre of cover to form a diamond 11 ins. across between points. sew ends of ribbon on wrong side. thread a 2nd row of ribbon outside this row 1-1/2 ins. from it. cut remaining ribbon into 4 pieces. sew cut edges of one piece together. sew a gathering thread along one long edge and draw up forming a rosette. sew rosettes between ribbon rows at corners of diamonds. =crocheted bonnet=--_illustrated on opposite page_ materials: =3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool=. 1 oz. sky blue. one no. 1 steel crochet hook. (american gauge). 2-1/2 yds. ribbon 1 inch wide. 2/3 yd. ribbon 1/2 inch wide. measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= width all round brim 11-1/2 ins. 13 ins. 14 ins. tension: 8 s.c. and 8 rows = 1 inch 2 shells and 6 rows = 1 inch _the instructions are written for size 3 mos. sizes 6 and 9 mos. are written in brackets thus:=( )=._ beginning at centre of crown ch. 2 sts. =1st round:= 6. s.c. in 2nd ch. from hook. join in circle with s.s. =2nd round:= 2. s.c. in each s.c. =3rd round:= *1. s.c. in next s.c. 2. s.c. in next s.c. repeat from * to end of round. =4th round:= *1. s.c. in each of next 2. s.c. 2. s.c. in next s.c. repeat from * to end of round. =5th round:= *1. s.c. in each of next 3. s.c. 2. s.c. in next s.c. repeat from * to end of round. (this makes 6 sections). continue in s.c. working 1 more s.c. in each section until work measures 5 ins. in diameter, =(=_6 mos.--5-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--6 ins._=)=, ending last round with s.s. in 1st st. of round. working in rows proceed in shell pattern.-=1st row:= *miss 1. st. (1. s.c. 1. d.c. 1. s.c.) all in next st. miss 1. st. s.s. in next st. (this makes 1 shell). repeat from * across 5 sections, (the 6th section forms the back of the bonnet). ch. 1. turn. =2nd row:= (1. s.c. 1. d.c. 1. s.c.) in 1st s.s. 1. s.s. in d.c. of next shell. *(1. s.c. 1. d.c. 1. s.c) in next s.s. (between shells of previous row). 1. s.s. in d.c. of next shell. repeat from * to end of row, ending with s.s. in d.c. of last shell. ch. 1. turn. repeat 2nd row (for pattern) until shell section measures 3-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--4 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--4-1/2 ins._=)=. fasten off. to make up: cut 1/2 inch ribbon into a 13 inch piece and an 11 inch piece. thread the 13 inch piece through the shells 1 inch from front edge of bonnet and sew in position. thread the 11 inch piece through the shells at the neck edge and the s.c. portion of the crown, easing in back fullness and sew in position. make rosettes and streamers with the 1 inch ribbon and sew to bonnet as illustrated. =crocheted booties=--_illustrated on opposite page_ materials: =3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool=. 1 oz. sky blue. one no. 1 steel crochet hook. (american gauge). length of ribbon 1/4 inch wide. tension and shell pattern as given for crocheted bonnet, see above. _the instructions are written for 3 mos. size. sizes 6 and 9 mos. are written in brackets thus:=( )=._ ch. 37 sts. =(=_6 mos.--41 sts._=)= =(=_9 mos.--45 sts._=)=. work 9 shells =(=_6 mos.--10 shells_=)= =(=_9 mos.--11 shells_=)= across row. continue in shell pattern as given for crocheted bonnet until work measures 2-1/2 ins. fasten off. (top edge of bootee). join wool at lower edge and work 32 d.c. =(=_6 mos.--36 d.c._=)= =(=_9 mos.--40 d.c._=)= across row. break wool. =to make instep:= mark centre front of bootee. join wool to 4th st. before the centre. =1st row:= ch. 1. work 8 s.c. across centre of bootee. ch. 1. turn. work 1 inch even in s.c. on these 8 sts. fasten off. =to make foot:= sew seam at back of leg. join wool at centre back. work 1 round s.c. around lower edge of bootee, working 3 s.c. in both corners of instep. working in rounds of s.c. continue even until foot measures 1 inch. fasten off. =to make sole:= beginning at centre ch. 17 sts. =(=_6 mos.--19 sts._=)= =(=_9 mos.--21 sts._=)=. =1st round:= 1. s.c. in 2nd ch. from hook. 1. s.c. in each ch. to last ch. 3. s.c. in last ch. working along opposite side of ch. work 1. s.c. in each ch. to end. 3. s.c. in end of ch. join with s.s. =2nd round:= ch. 3. 1. d.c. in each s.c. working 5. d.c. in centre of each 3 s.c. group. =3rd and 4th rounds:= ch. 3. 1. d.c. in each d.c. working 5 d.c. in centre of each 5 d.c. group. fasten off. to make up: place edges of sole and foot together. work 1 row s.c. closely along edges, through both thicknesses. thread ribbon through the row of d.c. at ankle. _sweethearts on parade_ from page 7 to page 18 garments can be made for 3, 6 and 9 months [illustration: cover and mitts--_see below_ bonnet, bootees--_see page 6._ jacket "peggy"--_see page 6._] =crocheted cover= materials: 3 ply =beehive non-shrink baby wool=. 9 ozs. sky blue. one no. 1 steel crochet hook. (american gauge). 3-1/2 yds. ribbon 1/2 inch wide. measurements: 29 ins. × 31 ins. tension: 5 groups = 2 ins. 6 rows (3 group rows and 3 s.c. rows) = 1 inch. ch. 190 sts. =1st row:= 1. s.c. in 2nd ch. from hook. 1. s.c. in each ch. to end of row. ch. 2. turn. =2nd row:= insert hook in 1st. s.c. (draw through a 1/2 inch loop. w.o.h. insert hook in same s.c.) twice. draw loop through. w.o.h. and through all 6 loops on hook. (this makes 1 group). *miss 2. s.c. 1. s.c. in next s.c. ch. 2. insert hook in same s.c. and complete 1 group. repeat from * to end of row, ending with 1. s.c. in last s.c. ch. 1. turn. =3rd row:= (right side). 1. s.c. in 1st. s.c. *2. s.c. in next ch. 2. 1. s.c. in next s.c. repeat from * to end of row, ending with 2. s.c. in the ch. 2. of last group. ch. 2. turn. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows until work measures 29 ins. from beginning, ending with 2nd row. with right side of work facing, work around cover in s.c. for 1 inch, increasing at corners to keep work flat. =next round:= ch. 2. repeat 2nd pattern row around cover. join to beginning of round with s.s. fasten off. (_continued on page 6_) crocheted mitts materials: =3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool=. 1 oz. sky blue. one no. 1 steel crochet hook. (american gauge). length of ribbon 1/4 inch wide tension and shell pattern as given for crocheted bonnet, see page 6. _the instructions are written for size 3 mos. sizes 6 and 9 mos. are written in brackets thus:=( )=._ beginning at top ch. 4 sts. join with s.s. =1st round:= 10 s.c. in circle. =2nd round:= *2. s.c. in 1st st. 1. s.c. in next st. repeat from * to end of round. =3rd and alternate rounds:= 1. s.c. in each st. to end of round. =4th round:= *2. s.c. in 1st st. 1. s.c. in each of next 2 sts. repeat from * to end of round. 6th round: *2. s.c. in 1st st. 1. s.c. in each of next 3 sts. repeat from * to end of round. (this makes 5 sections). continue inc. 1. s.c. in each section every alternate round twice more. =(=_6 mos.--3 times more_=)= =(=_9 mos.--4 times more_=)=. continue even in rounds of s.c. until work measures 2-3/4 ins. from beginning. =(=_6 mos.--3 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--3-1/4 ins._=)=. ch. 2. work 1 round d.c. working backwards and forwards work 2 ins. even in shell pattern as given for crocheted bonnet. fasten off. sew up seam of cuff. thread ribbon through the row of d.c. at wrist. make another mitt to correspond. _sweethearts on parade_ more baby jackets are shown on pages 51 to 59 [illustration: (=a=) =boy's coat=--_see page 9._ (=b=) =coat--=-_see page 62._ (=c=) =girl's coat=--_see page 9._ (=d=) =boy's cap=--_see page 17._ (=e=) =girl's bonnet=--_see page 17._ (=f=) =pullover=--_see page 17._ (=g=) =mitts=--_see page 27._ (=h=) =leggings--=-_see page 10._ (=i=) =boy's cap--=-_see page 10._ (=j=) =girl's bonnet=--_see page 10._ (=k=) =pullover=--_see page 11._] (=c=) =girl's coat=--_illustrated on opposite page_ materials: =4 ply miss canada fingering=. 4 ozs. cascade no. 301. 3 buttons. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= width all round at underarm 19 ins. 20 ins. 21 ins. length at centre back 12-1/2 " 13 " 13-1/2 " length of sleeve underarm seam 5-1/2 " 6 " 7 " right front: cast on 57 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 11 times. =13th row:= k1. (p1. k1) 3 times. (moss st. border). knit to end of row. =14th row:= k1. purl to last 7 sts. (k1. p1) 3 times. k1. repeat last 2 rows until work measures 6-1/2 ins. from beginning ending with 14th row. proceed:=1st row.= k1. (p1. k1) 3 times. (k3tog.) 5 times. (k3tog. k2tog.) 4 times. (k3tog.) 5 times. =2nd row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 2nd row twice. =5th row:= (buttonhole) k1. p1. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 2nd row 5 times. =11th row:= k1. (p1. k1) 3 times. k1. inc. 1. st. in next st. *(inc. 1. st. in next st.) twice. k1. repeat from * to last 4 sts. (inc. 1. st. in next st.) 3 times. k1. 37 sts. on needle. =12th row:= k1. purl to last 7 sts. (k1. p1) 3 times. k1. =13th row:= k1. (p1. k1) 3 times. knit to end of row. repeat 12th and 13th rows once, then 12th row once. =to shape armhole:= =1st row:= k1. (p1. k1) 3 times. knit to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last 7 sts. (k1. p1) 3 times. k1. repeat 1st. and 2nd rows twice. =7th row:= (buttonhole) k1. p1. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. p1. k1. knit to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. keeping moss st. border and working a 3rd buttonhole 17 rows above 2nd, continue dec. 1. st. at armhole edge every alternate row to 24 sts. on needle. =to shape neck:= at neck edge cast off 8 sts. knit to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. continue dec. 1. st. each end of needle every alternate row to 3 sts. on needle ending with knit row. =next row:= k1. p1. k1. =next row:= k3tog. fasten off. left front: cast on 57 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 11 times. =13th row:= knit to last 7 sts. (k1. p1) 3 times. k1. =14th row:= k1. (p1. k1) 3 times. purl to last st. k1. being careful to have border at opposite side, continue to correspond to right front until work measures 6-1/2 ins. from beginning ending with purl row. proceed:=1st row:= (k3tog.) 5 times. (k2tog. k3tog.) 4 times. (k3tog.) 5 times. (k1. p1) 3 times. k1. =2nd row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 2nd row 8 times. =11th row:= k1. (inc. 1. st. in next st.) 3 times. *k1. (inc. 1. st. in next st.) twice. repeat from * to last 9 sts. inc. 1. st. in next st. k1. (k1. p1) 3 times. k1. 37 sts. on needle. continue to correspond to right front, omitting buttonholes and being careful to have all shapings and border at opposite side. back: cast on 107 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 11 times. continue even in stocking st. until work measures 6-1/2 ins. from beginning ending with purl row. proceed:=1st row:= k3tog. *(k3tog. k2tog.) 3 times. k3tog. repeat from * to last 14 sts. k3tog. k2tog. (k3tog.) 3 times. 41 sts. on needle. =2nd row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 2nd row 8 times. =11th row:= k1. *k1. (inc. 1. st. in next st.) twice. repeat from * to last 4 sts. k1. inc. 1. st. in next st. k2. 66 sts. on needle. work 5 rows even in stocking st. =6th row:= k1. k2tog. knit to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. =7th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat 6th and 7th rows to 24 sts. on needle. cast off. sleeves: cast on 29 sts. work exactly as given for boy's coat, see next column. collar: cast on 11 sts. work exactly as given for boy's coat, see next column. to make up: press all pieces carefully. sew all seams. sew in sleeves. sew collar in position, placing the ends 3 sts. in from edges of fronts. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. (=a=) =boy's coat=--_illustrated on opposite page_ materials: =4 ply miss canada fingering=. 4 ozs. cascade no. 301. 6 buttons. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: width all round at underarm and sleeve length, as given for girl's coat, (c). length at centre back 1/2 inch less than girl's coat, each size. left front: cast on 43 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 11 times. =13th row:= knit to last 7 sts. k1. (p1. k1) 3 times. =14th row:= k1. (p1. k1) 3 times. (moss st. border). purl to last st. k1. repeat last 2 rows until work from beginning measures 5-1/2. ins. =(=_6 mos.--6 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--6-1/2 ins._=)= ending with purl row. =next row:= (buttonholes) k27. wl. fwd. k2tog. k8. p1. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. p1. k1. continue even until work measures 6-1/2 ins. from beginning ending with purl row. =to shape armhole:= keeping moss st. border and working 2 more buttonholes 17 rows apart, at armhole edge dec. 1, st. every alternate row to 28 sts. on needle, ending with knit row. =to shape neck:= =1st row:= cast off 15 sts. k1. purl to last st. k1. =2nd row:= k1. k2tog. knit to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. =3rd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows 3 times. =10th row:= k1. (k2tog.) twice. =11th row:= k1. p1. k1. =12th row:= k3tog. fasten off. right front: cast on 43 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 11 times. =13th row:= k1. *(p1. k1) 3 times. knit to end of row. =14th row:= k1. purl to last 7 sts. k1. (p1. k1) 3 times. keeping moss st. border, continue to correspond to left front, omitting buttonholes and being careful to have all shapings for opposite side. back: cast on 67 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 11 times, dec. 1. st. at end of last row. continue even in stocking st. until work measures 6-1/2 ins. from beginning ending with purl row. =to shape armholes:= dec. 1. st. each end of needle next and every alternate row to 24 sts. on needle. cast off. sleeves: cast on 29 sts. =1st row:= k1 *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 12 times. =next row:= k1. p1. *inc. 1 st. in next st. p3. repeat from * to last 3 sts. inc. 1. st. in next st. p1. k1. 36 sts. on needle. continue in stocking st. inc. 1. st. each end of needle every following 6th row to 48 sts. on needle. continue even until sleeve from beginning measures 5-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--6 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--7 ins._=)= ending with purl row. dec. 1. st. each end of needle next and every alternate row to 6 sts. cast off. collar: cast on 11 sts. =1st row:= *k1. p1. repeat from * to last 3 sts. k1. inc. 1. st. in next st. purl ways. k1. =2nd row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. =3rd row:= *k1. p1. repeat from * to last 2 sts. inc. 1. st. in next st. k1. =4th row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat these 4 rows twice, then 4th row once. proceed:**=1st row:= (k1. p1) 7 times. turn. =2nd row:= (p1. k1) 7 times. work 4 rows moss st.** repeat from ** to ** 15 times, then 1st. and 2nd rows once. proceed:=1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. =2nd row:= *k1. p1. repeat from * to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. =3rd row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. =4th row:= *k1. p1. repeat from * to last 4 sts. k1. p2tog. k1. repeat 1st. to 4th rows twice. cast off. to make up: press all pieces carefully. sew all seams. sew in sleeves. sew collar in position, placing the ends 10 sts. in from edges of fronts. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. [illustration: bblogo] (=h=) =girl's or boy's leggings= _illustrated on page 8_ materials: =4 ply miss canada fingering=. 3 ozs. cascade, no. 301. one stitch holder. one medium crochet hook. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= length of front seam 7 ins. 7-1/2 ins. 8 ins. length of leg seam (including foot) 9-1/2 " 10 " 10-1/2 " cast on 144 sts. =1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 3 times. =5th row:= (eyelets) k2. *wl. fwd. k2tog. (p1. k1) twice. repeat from * to last 4 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. p1. k1. repeat 1st. row 5 times. proceed:=to shape back:= k78. turn. =2nd row:= p12. turn. =3rd row:= k18. turn. =4th row:= p24. turn. continue in this manner, that is working over 6 more sts. in every row until 18 sts. remain unworked at each end of needle. proceed:=1st row:= knit. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= knit. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows until work measures 7 ins. =(=_6 mos.--7-1/2 ins_.=)= =(=_9 mos.--8 ins._=)= from beginning, measured at short side of work, ending with purl row. =next row:= k72. turn. leave remaining 72 sts. on st. holder. working on these 72 sts. continue in stocking st. dec. 1. st. each end of needle every alternate row to 32 sts. work 10 rows even. =to make foot:= =1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 7 times. =9th row:= k19. p10. turn. =10th row:= k10. =11th row:= k1. p8. k1. turn. repeat 10th and 11th rows 8 times. =28th row:= k1. k2tog. k4. k2tog. k1. =29th row:= k1. p6. k1. =30th row:= k1. k2tog. k2. k2tog. k1. =31st row:= k1. p4. k1. break wool. joining the wool where the 3 sts. were left. k3. =next row:= k3. pick up and knit 14 sts. along side of foot. knit the 6 sts. across the toe. pick up and knit 14 sts. along other side of foot. knit the 19 sts. which were left. 56 sts. on needle. knit 9 rows garter st. proceed:=1st row:= k19. (k2tog.) twice. k24. (k2tog.) twice. k5. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= k18. (k2tog.) twice. k22. (k2tog.) twice. k4. knit 2 rows garter st. cast off. join wool where the 72 sts. were left and continue in stocking st. dec. 1. st. each end of needle on 3rd and every alternate row to 32 sts. work 10 rows even. proceed:=1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 7 times. =9th row:= k3. p10. turn. =10th row:= k10. turn. =11th row:= k1. p8. k1. turn. repeat 10th and 11th rows 8 times. =28th row:= k1. k2tog. k4. k2tog. k1. =29th row:= k1. p6. k1. =30th row:= k1. k2tog. k2. k2tog. k1. =31st row:= k1. p4. k1. break wool. join wool to where 19 sts. were left. knit to end of row. =next row:= k19. pick up and knit 14 sts. along side of foot. knit 6 sts. across toe. pick up and knit 14 sts. along other side of foot. knit 3 sts. which were left. 56 sts. on needle. knit 9 rows garter st. proceed:=1st row:= k5. (k2tog.) twice. k24. (k2tog.) twice. k19. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= k4. (k2tog.) twice. k22. (k2tog.) twice. k18. knit 2 rows garter st. cast off. to make up: press carefully. sew all seams. with double wool crochet a cord. thread through eyelets at waist. make and sew a tassel to each end. [illustration: bb logo] (=i=) =boy's cap=--_illustrated on page 8_ materials: =4 ply miss canada fingering=. 1 oz. cascade no. 301. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= width all round brim 12 ins. 13 ins. 14 ins. cast on 75 sts. repeat from ** to ** as given for girl's bonnet, below. proceed:=1st row:= k1. *inc. 1. st. in next st. k8. repeat from * to last 2 sts. inc. 1. st. in next st. k1. 84 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =2nd row:= knit. repeat these 2 rows for 2-1/2 ins. ending with purl row and dec. 1. st. at end of last row. proceed:=1st decreasing row:= k1. (p1. k1) 3 times. *p3tog. (k1. p1) 4 times. k3tog. (p1. k1) 4 times. repeat from * twice. p3tog. (k1. p1) 3 times. k1. work 3 rows even in moss st. also after each of the following rows. =2nd decreasing row:= (k1. p1) 3 times. *k3tog. (p1. k1) 3 times. p3tog. (k1. p1) 3 times. repeat from * twice. k3tog. (p1. k1) 3 times. =3rd decreasing row:= k1. (p1. k1) twice. *p3tog. (k1. p1) twice. k3tog. (p1. k1) twice. repeat from * twice. p3tog. (k1. p1) twice. k1. =4th decreasing row:= (k1. p1) twice. *k3tog. p1. k1. p3tog. k1. p1. repeat from * twice. k3tog. (p1. k1) twice. 27 sts. on needle. break wool and thread end through remaining sts. draw up and fasten securely. sew up back seam. [illustration: bb logo] (=j=) =girl's bonnet=--_illustrated on page 8_ materials: =4 ply miss canada fingering=. 1 oz. cascade no. 301. 1-3/4 yds. ribbon. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= width all round brim 11-1/2 ins. 12 ins. 13 ins. cast on 65 sts. **=1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 31 times. proceed:=1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to last st. k1. =2nd row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat these 2 rows 4 times, 1st. row once.** proceed:=1st row:= *k4. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to end of row. 78 sts. on needle. =2nd row:= k2. purl to last 2 sts. k2. =3rd row:= knit. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows 11 times. =26th row:= k2. purl to last 4 sts. p2tog. k2. proceed:=1st decreasing row:= k1. (p1. k1) twice. *p3tog. (k1. p1) 5 times. k3tog. (p1. k1) 5 times. repeat from * once. p3tog. (k1. p1) 5 times. k3tog. (p1. k1) twice. work 3 rows even in moss st. also after each of the following rows. =2nd decreasing row:= (k1. p1) twice. *k3tog. (p1. k1) 4 times. p3tog. (k1. p1) 4 times. repeat from * once. k3tog. (p1. k1) 4 times. p3tog. k1. p1. k1. =3rd decreasing row:= k1. p1. k1. *p3tog. (k1. p1) 3 times. k3tog. (p1. k1) 3 times. repeat from * once. p3tog. (k1. p1) 3 times. k3tog. p1. k1. =4th decreasing row:= k1. p1. *k3tog. (p1. k1) twice. p3tog. (k1. p1) twice. repeat from * once. k3tog. (p1. k1) twice. p3tog. k1. =5th decreasing row:= k1. *p3tog. k1. p1. k3tog. p1. k1. repeat from * once. p3tog. k1. p1. k3tog. 18 sts. on needle. break wool and thread end through remaining sts. draw up and fasten securely. sew up 3 ins. of back seam. make ribbon rosettes and sew to bonnet as illustrated. [illustration: pullover with ducks chart] (=k=) =pullover with ducks=--_illustrated on page 8_ materials: =3 ply beehive fingering=. 2 ozs. mauve no. 554 (m). small quantity of yellow no. 2042 (y), orange no. 2012 (o) and black (b). one stitch holder. one medium crochet hook. 4 buttons. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= width all round at underarm 18 ins. 19 ins. 19-1/2 ins. length from top of shoulder 10-1/2 " 11 " 11-1/2 " length of sleeve underarm seam 5-1/2 " 6 " 7 " cut 8 strands (m) 2 yds. long and 8 strands (y) 1-3/4 yds. long. back: with (m) wool cast on 72 sts. work 1-1/2 ins. ribbing (k1. p1). work 6 rows stocking st. with (y) wool, knit 1 row. with (m) work 3 rows stocking st. proceed to work from chart, reading from right to left for knit rows, and from left to right for purl rows, using the balls and strands of wool as indicated on chart, being careful to twist wool when changing colours. when design has been worked break all wools except ball (m). with (m), work 3 rows stocking st. with (y), purl 1 row. with (m) continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 7-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--7-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--8 ins._=)= ending with purl row. =to shape armholes:= cast off 3 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle next and every alternate row to 58 sts. on needle. continue even in stocking st. until armhole from first shaping measures 2-3/4 ins. =(=_6 mos.--3-1/4 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--3-1/4 ins._=)= ending with purl row. =to shape neck:= =1st row:= k19. turn. working on these 19 sts. dec. 1. st. at neck edge on next 3 rows. =to shape shoulder:= at armhole edge cast off 8 sts. every alternate row twice. slip next 20 sts. on st. holder. work remaining 19 sts. to correspond to other side. neckband: with right side of work facing and (y) wool, pick up and knit 6 sts. along side of neck, knit 20 sts. from st. holder at back of neck. pick up and knit 6 sts. along other side of neck. break (y). join (m). =next row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. work 2 rows ribbing (k1. p1). cast off in ribbing. front: work exactly as given for back until armhole from first shaping measures 1-3/4 ins. =(=_6 mos.--2-1/4 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--2-1/4 ins._=)= ending with purl row. =to shape neck:= =1st row:= k22. turn. working on these 22 sts. dec. 1. st. at neck edge next and every following row to 16 sts. on needle. continue even in stocking st. until armhole from first shaping measures 3 ins. =(=_6 mos.--3-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--3-1/2 ins._=)=. shape shoulder as given for back. slip next 14 sts. on st. holder. work remaining 22 sts. to correspond to other side. neckband: with right side of work facing and (y) wool, pick up and knit 16 sts. along side of neck. knit 14 sts. from st. holder at front of neck. pick up and knit 16 sts. along other side of neck. break (y). join (m). =next row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. work 2 rows ribbing (k1. p1). cast off in ribbing. sleeves: cast on 36 sts. work 1-1/2 ins. ribbing (k1. p1). =next row:= *k8. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to end of row. 40 sts. on needle. =next row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. continue in stocking st. inc. 1. st. each end of needle on 5th and every following 6th row to 50 sts. on needle. continue even until sleeve measures 5-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--6 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--7 ins._=)= from beginning ending with purl row. cast off 2 sts. beginning every row to 10 sts. on needle. cast off. to make up: press all pieces carefully. darn all ends on wrong side. sew all seams, except shoulders. work 1 row d.c. along back of each shoulder and 1 row s.c. along front of each shoulder, working 2 chain loops for buttonholes. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. _keeping tidy underneath.._ [illustration: (a), (b) and (c)--_see page 13_. (d)--_see below_.] =(d) panties= materials: =4 ply miss canada fingering=. 3 ozs. length of ribbon. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= length from waist to crotch at front 9 ins. 10 ins. 10-1/2 ins. width all round at widest part 22 " 23 " 24 " beginning at top of waistband cast on 64 sts. =1st row:= *k2. p2. repeat from * to last 4 sts. k2. p1. k1. repeat 1st. row 3 times. =5th row:= (eyelets) *k2. w.r.n. p2tog. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 7 times. =next row:= knit, inc. 12 sts. across row; 76 sts. on needle. continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 5-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--6 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--6-1/2 ins._=)=, ending with purl row. proceed:=1st row:= k1. k2tog. knit to last 3 sts. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k1. =2nd row:= k1. p2tog. purl to last 3 sts. p2tog. k1. repeat these 2 rows to 12 sts. on needle. work 4 rows even. continue in stocking st. inc. 1. st. each end of needle every row to 76 sts. on needle. continue to correspond to front, being careful to dec. 12 sts. before working ribbing. leg bands: with right side of work facing, pick up and knit 72 sts. along edge of leg. work 5 rows ribbing (k2. p2). cast off in ribbing. to make up: press carefully. sew side seams. thread ribbon through eyelets, or make a crocheted chain and thread through, making a tassel for each end. =(a) panties=--_illustrated on opposite page_ materials: =miss canada crochet-knitting wool.= 2 ozs. pearl pink. one medium crochet hook. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= length from waist to crotch at front 9 ins. 9-1/2 ins. 11 ins. width all round at widest part 22 " 23 " 24 " pattern: =1st row:= *k1. p2. repeat from * to last st. k1. =2nd row:= k3. *p1. k2. repeat from * to last st. k1. front: cast on 64 sts. =1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 4 times. =6th row=: (eyelets). k2. *wl. fwd. k2tog. p1. k1. repeat from * to last 2 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat 1st. row 7 times. ***keeping continuity of pattern inc. 1. st. each end of needle on 3rd and every following 4th row to 82 sts. on needle. continue even until work from beginning, at centre, measures 7-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--8 ins._ =)= =(=_9 mos.--9 ins._=)= ending with 2nd pattern row. =to shape legs and gusset:= =1st row:= cast off 7 sts. work 33 sts. in pattern. inc. 1. st. in each of next 2 sts. work in pattern to end of row. =2nd row:= cast off 7 sts. work 33 sts. in pattern. p4. work in pattern to end of row. =3rd row:= cast off 7 sts. work 26 sts. in pattern. inc. 1. st. in next st. k2. inc. 1. st. in next st. work in pattern to end of row. =4th row:= cast off 7 sts. work 26 sts. in pattern. p6. work in pattern to end of row. =5th row:= cast off 7 sts. work 19 sts. in pattern. inc. 1. st. in next st. k4. inc. 1. st. in next st. work in pattern to end of row. =6th row:= cast off 7 sts. work 19 sts. in pattern. p8. work in pattern to end of row. still increasing in centre in this manner, continue working pattern, casting off 5 sts. beginning next 6 rows. =13th row:= cast off 4 sts. knit to end of row. =14th row:= cast off 4 sts. p13. k1. knit 1 row. cast off.*** back: cast on 64 sts. work the ribbed band with eyelets as given for front. proceed:**=to shape back:= =1st row:= work 40 sts. in pattern. turn. =2nd row:= work 16 sts. in pattern. turn. =3rd row:= work 24 sts. in pattern. turn. =4th row:= work 32 sts. in pattern. turn. continue in this manner, working 8 extra sts. every row until all sts. have been worked.** work from *** to *** as given for front. sew gusset edges together. leg bands: with right side of work facing pick up and knit 60 sts. around leg opening. work 1/4 inch ribbing (k1. p1). cast off loosely in ribbing. to make up: press carefully. sew side seams. with double wool crochet a cord. thread through eyelets at waist. make and sew a small tassel to each end. =(b) panties=--_illustrated on opposite page_ materials: =4 ply beehive fingering=. 3 ozs. blue no. 188. one stitch holder. 3 buttons. one medium crochet hook. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= length from waist to crotch at front 8-1/2 ins. 9 ins. 10-1/2 ins. width all round at widest part 22 " 23 " 24 " pattern: =1st row:= *k1. p2. repeat from * to last st. k1. =2nd row:= k3. *p1. k2. repeat from * to last st. k1. front: cast on 64 sts. =1st row:= *k1. p1. repeat from * to last 2 sts. k2. repeat 1st. row once. =3rd row:= (eyelets). k1. *wl. fwd. k2tog. p1. k1. repeat from * to last 3 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. repeat 1st. row 5 times. =9th row:= (k1. p1) 18 times. turn. leave remaining sts. on st. holder. proceed for left front:=1st row:= (k1. p1) 4 times. work 1st. pattern row. =2nd row:= work 2nd pattern row to last 9 sts. (p1. k1) 3 times. p1. k2. keeping ribbed border at front edge, and remaining sts. in pattern, inc. 1. st. at side edge on next and every following 4th row until work from beginning measures 2-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--2-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--3 ins._=)=. =next row:= (1st. buttonhole). rib 3 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. rib 3 sts. work in pattern to end of row. working 2 more buttonholes 15 rows apart, continue increasing at side edge to 45 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until work from beginning measures 7 ins. =(=_6 mos.--7-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--8-1/2 ins._=)= ending with 2nd pattern row. leave these sts. on spare needle. right front: cast on 8 sts. and rib across sts. from st. holder. continue to correspond to left front, omitting buttonholes and being careful to have front border and shaping for opposite side. when work measures same as left front proceed:work 37 sts. in pattern. place the needle holding the sts. of the left front in front of the remaining 8 sts. of the right front so that the border sts. overlap. knit 1. st. from each needle together 8 times, thus joining both fronts together. work in pattern across left front sts. 82 sts. on needle. =next row:= work in pattern. ***=to shape gusset:= =1st row:= work 40 sts. in pattern. inc. 1. st. in each of next 2 sts. work 40 sts. in pattern. =2nd row:= work 40 sts. in pattern. p4. work 40 sts. in pattern. =3rd row:= work 40 sts. in pattern. inc. 1. st. in next st. k2. inc. 1. st. in next st. work 40 sts. in pattern. =4th row:= work 40 sts. in pattern. p6. work 40 sts. in pattern. continue increasing gusset in this manner, every alternate row to 94 sts. on needle. work 2 rows even. =next row:= with right side of work facing, work 40 sts. in ribbing (k1. p1). turn. work 1/2 inch ribbing on these 40 sts. cast off loosely in ribbing. join wool and cast off 14 sts. work 1/2 inch ribbing (k1. p1) on remaining 40 sts. cast off loosely in ribbing.*** back: cast on 64 sts. work the ribbed band with eyelets as given for front. work from ** to ** as given for back of panties, see left column. proceed:keeping continuity of pattern inc. 1. st. each end of needle on 3rd and every following 4th row to 82 sts. on needle. continue even until work from beginning at side edge, measures 7 ins. =(=_6 mos.--7-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--8-1/2 ins._=)= work from *** to *** as given for front. to make up: press pieces carefully. sew side and gusset seams. with double wool crochet a cord. thread through eyelets at waist. make and sew a tassel to each end. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. =(c) crocheted panties=--_illustrated on opposite page_ materials: =4 ply miss canada andalusian=. 2 ozs. pink. one no. 1 steel crochet hook. (american gauge). for measurements see baby's knitted panties (d) page 12. tension: 7 d.c. and 3 rows = 1 inch. _the instructions are written for size 3 mos_. _sizes_ 6 _and_ 9 _mos. are written in brackets thus:=( )=._ beginning at crotch ch. 21 sts. =1st row:= 1. d.c. in 3rd ch. from hook. 1. d.c. in each st. to end of ch. 20 d.c. in row. (the turning ch. counts as 1. d.c.). ch. 4. turn. =2nd row:= 3. d.c. in 1st. d.c. 1. d.c. in each st. to the last d.c. before the turning ch. of previous row. (3. d.c. 1. tr.) all in this d.c. 25 sts. in row. ch. 4. turn. =3rd row:= as 2nd row. 30 d.c. in row. repeat 2nd row until work from side edge to side edge measures 11 ins. =(=_6 mos.--11-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--12 ins._=)=. ch. 3. turn. work 1 row even in d.c. turning each row with ch. 3. =next row:= *w.o.h. insert hook in next d.c. draw up a loop. w.o.h. and through 2 loops on hook. repeat from * once. w.o.h. and through all 3 loops on hook. (this decreases 1. st.) 1. d.c. in each st. to last 3 sts. dec. 1. st. 1. d.c. in last st. ch. 3. turn. continue in d.c. dec. 1. st. each end of work every 3rd row 4 times more. continue even in d.c. until work from beginning measures 8-1/4 ins. =(=_6 mos.--9-1/4 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--9-3/4 ins._=)=. =next row:= (eyelets) 1. d.c. in next 2 sts. *ch. 1. miss 1. st. 1. d.c. in next 3 sts. repeat from * to end of row. ch. 3. turn. * * * * * =crocheted panties= (_continued_) work 1 row even in d.c. ch. 1. turn. work 1 row even in s.c. break wool. make another piece to correspond. to make up: press pieces carefully. sew side and crotch seams. make a crocheted ch. with double wool. thread through eyelets. make and attach a small tassel to each end. leg bands: ch. 7 sts. =1st row:= 1. s.c. in 2nd ch. from hook. 1. s.c. in each st. to end of row. ch. 1. turn. =2nd row:= 1. s.c. in each st., working into back of sts. only. ch. 1. turn. repeat 2nd row until piece is long enough to go along each leg opening. sew leg bands in position. =(h) sleeping suit=--_illustrated on opposite page_ materials: =4 ply miss canada andalusian.= 4 ozs. pink. one medium crochet hook. 6 buttons. small quantity of wool for embroidery. one safety pin. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= =pullover= width all round at underarm 18 ins. 19 ins. 19-1/2 ins. length from top of shoulder 10 " 10-1/2 " 11 " length of sleeve underarm seam 5-1/2 " 6 " 7 " =leggings= width all round at widest part 21 " 22 " 23 " length of front seam 7 " 7-1/2 " 8 " length of leg seam 8 " 8-1/2 " 9 " =the pullover= front: cast on 76 sts. work 2 ins. ribbing (k1. p1). continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 7-1/2 ins. ending with purl row. =to shape armholes:= cast off 4 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle every row to 60 sts. =to make pocket:= k6. break wool. slip next 18 sts. onto safety pin for pocket. join wool. knit to end of row. leave these sts. until pocket piece has been worked. =to make pocket piece:= cast on 18 sts. work 2-1/2 ins. stocking st. ending with knit row. leave these sts. on needle. starting again on sts. of front proceed:=1st row:= k1. p35. purl across sts. of pocket piece. p5. k1. 60 sts. on needle. continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 9 ins. =(=_6 mos.--9-1/2 ins_.=)= =(=_9 mos.--10 ins._=)= ending with purl row. =to shape neck and shoulders:= k24. cast off 12 sts. k24. working on last 24 sts. keeping armhole edge even, at neck edge dec. 1. st. every row to 14 sts. on needle. at armhole edge cast off 7 sts. every alternate row twice. join wool at neck edge and work remaining sts. to correspond to other side. =to make pocket top:= slip 18 sts. from safety pin onto needle. work 4 rows ribbing (k1. p1). cast off loosely in ribbing. back: work exactly as given for front to 60 sts. on needle, (end of armhole shaping). continue even until work from beginning measures 9-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--10 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--10-1/2 ins._=)= ending with purl row. =to shape neck and shoulders:= k19. cast off 22 sts. k19. working on last 19 sts. keeping armhole edge even, at neck edge dec. 1. st. every row to 14 sts. on needle. at armhole edge cast off 7 sts. every alternate row twice. join wool at neck edge and work remaining sts. to correspond to other side. front neckband: with right side of work facing pick up and knit 46 sts. around neck. work 3/4 inch ribbing (k1. p1). cast off loosely in ribbing. back neckband: with right side of work facing pick up and knit 42 sts. and work as for front band. sleeves: cast on 42 sts. work 1-1/2 ins. ribbing (k1. p1). continue in stocking st. inc. 1. st. each end of needle on 5th and every following 4th row to 60 sts. on needle. continue even until sleeve from beginning measures 5-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--6 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--7 ins._=)=. cast off 2 sts. beginning every row to 28 sts. on needle. cast off. =the leggings= right leg: cast on 72 sts. work 1/2 inch ribbing (k1. p1). =next row:= (eyelets) *k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to end of row. work 1 inch ribbing (k1. p1). =next row:= knit, inc. 8 sts. across row. 80 sts. on needle. =next row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =to shape back:= =1st row:= k10. turn. =2nd row:= p9. k1. =3rd row:= k20. turn. =4th row:= p19. k1. =5th row:= k30. turn. =6th row:= p29. k1. continue in this manner, knitting over 10 more sts. every knit row until 60 sts. have been worked ending with purl row. =next row:= knit across 80 sts. =next row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. continue in stocking st. inc. 1. st. at long side of work (beginning of row) on next and every following 6th row to 88 sts. on needle. continue even until work from beginning, at short side, measures 7 ins. =(=_6 mos.--7-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--8 ins._=)=. =to shape leg:= dec. 1. st. each end of needle every row to 72 sts. on needle then every 3rd row to 40 sts. on needle. continue even until leg seam measures 7 ins. =(=_6 mos.--7-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--8 ins._ =)=. work 1 inch even in ribbing (k1. p1). work 2-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--2-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--3 ins._=)= even in stocking st. ending with purl row. =to shape foot:= k20. turn. working in stocking st. on these 20 sts. dec. 1. st. each end of needle every alternate row to 6 sts. cast off. join wool and work remaining 20 sts. to correspond. left leg: work as given for right leg having back shapings on purl rows instead of knit rows and all increasings at end of knit rows instead of beginning. to make up: press all pieces carefully. sew all seams, except shoulders of pullover. work 1 row d.c. along back of each shoulder and 1 row s.c. along front, working 3 loops for buttonholes on each. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. embroider a row of chain st. around neck where sts. were picked up for ribbing. into every alternate st. work a lazy daisy st. at right angles to it. embroider top of pocket to correspond. with double wool crochet a cord. thread through eyelets at waist of leggings. make and sew a tassel to each end. (e) hot water bottle cover _illustrated on opposite page_ materials: =beehive lustre crepe.= 2 ozs. two no. 10 beehive knitting needles. one medium crochet hook. 4 ply miss canada fingering may be substituted, using no. 9 needles to produce the same tension. tension: 7 sts. = 1 inch. cast on 33 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row for 6-1/2 ins. dec. 1. st. at end of last row. work 7 rows ribbing (k2. p2). =8th row:= (eyelets) *k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to end of row. work 11 rows ribbing. cast off in ribbing. make another piece to correspond, and join pieces together with picot edging as follows:=to make picot edging:= with crochet hook, beginning at ribbed edge at top, work 1. s.c. through both pieces. *ch. 3. 1. s.c. in 3rd ch. from hook. 1. s.c. through both pieces of cover. repeat from * around cover, leaving an opening in centre of bottom large enough for tab of bottle. work picot edging around top of cover. crochet 2 draw strings. thread through eyelets at top and finish with tassels as illustrated. =(g) knitted bottle cover=--=for 8-oz. bottle= _illustrated on opposite page_ materials: =beehive lustre crepe.= 1 oz. two no. 10 beehive knitting needles. one medium crochet hook. 4 ply miss canada fingering may be substituted, using no. 9 needles to produce the same tension. tension: 7 sts. = 1 inch. cast on 45 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row for 4-3/4 ins. proceed:=1st row:= *(k1. p1) 3 times. k3tog. (p1. k1) 3 times. p3tog. repeat from * to last 9 sts. (k1. p1) 3 times. k3tog. =2nd and alternate rows:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. =3rd row:= *(k1. p1) twice. k3tog. (p1. k1) twice. p3tog. repeat from * to last 7 sts. (k1. p1) twice. k3tog. =5th row:= *k1. p1. k3tog. p1. k1. p3tog. repeat from * to last 5 sts. k1. p1. k3tog. =6th row:= as 2nd row. cast off in moss st. sew up seam. crochet edging around top of cover as follows:=1st round:= *ch. 3. miss 1. st. 1. s.c. in next st. repeat from * to end of round. work 2nd and 3rd rounds as given for edging of crocheted bottle cover, see page 61. make a crocheted cord and thread through 2nd round of loops. make and sew a small tassel to each end. _and so to bed.._ [illustration: =(a) bootees=--_see page 16_. =(b) bootees=--_see page 16_. =(c) slippers=--_see page 21_. =(d) cuddly cape=--_see page 16_. =(e) bottle cover=--_see page 14_. =(f) pullover=--_see page 16_. =(g) bottle cover=--_see page 14_. =(h) sleeping suit=--_see page 14_.] =(f) cross-over pullover=--_illustrated on page 15_ materials: =3 ply beehive fingering=. 3 ozs. yellow no. 598. one stitch holder. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= width all round at underarm 18 ins. 19 ins. 19-1/2 ins. length from top of shoulder 8-1/2 " 9 " 9-1/2 " length of sleeve underarm seam 5-1/2 " 6 " 7 " back: beginning at lower edge cast on 68 sts. work 1-1/2 ins. ribbing =(=k2. p2=)=. knit even in garter st. until work from beginning measures 5-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--5-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--6 ins._=)=. =to make sleeves:= continue in garter st. casting on 9 sts. beginning next 8 rows. (36 sts. on each side for sleeves). knit even until work from beginning measures 8-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--9 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos--9-1/2 ins._=)=. =to shape neck:= k57. cast off 26 sts. k57. working on last 57 sts and leaving remaining 57 sts. on st. holder knit 9 rows even, ending at neck edge. proceed:=1st row:= k2. inc. 1. st. in next st. knit to end of row. =2nd row:= knit. repeat these 2 rows until cuff edge measures 5-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--6 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--6 ins._=)=. still increasing at neck edge, at cuff edge cast off 9 sts. every alternate row 4 times. continue increasing at neck edge to 72 sts. on needle ending at neck edge. leave these sts. on spare needle. join wool at neck edge and work other side to correspond, ending at side edge. =next row:= place the needle holding the sts. of the right front in front of the needle holding the sts. of the left front so that the sts. overlap. knit 1. st. from each needle together 72 times, thus joining both fronts together. work 1-1/2 ins. ribbing =(=k2. p2=)=. cast off in ribbing. cuffs: with right side of work facing pick up and knit 32 sts. along edge of sleeve. work 1 inch ribbing =(=k2. p2=)=. cast off in ribbing. to make up: press carefully. sew side and sleeve seams. =(b) baby's bootees=--_illustrated on page 15_ materials: =3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool.= 1 oz. =for needles and tension see page 5.= cast on 48 sts. knit 4 rows garter st. =5th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. proceed:=**1st row:= *k3. p3. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k3. p2. k1. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k1. p2. k3. *p3. k3. repeat from * to end of row. =4th row:= as 2nd row.** repeat from ** to ** 5 times. knit 18 rows garter st. =next row:= =(=eyelets=)= *k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to end of row. =next row:= knit. =to make instep and foot:= k16. on next 16 sts. knit 28 rows garter st. break wool. beginning again where the 16 sts. were left, join wool and with same needle pick up and knit 15 sts. along side of instep, knit across the 16 instep sts., pick up and knit 15 sts. along other side of instep and knit remaining 16 sts. 78 sts. on needle. knit 13 rows garter st. =next row:= k1. k2tog. knit to 4 centre sts. (k2tog.) twice. knit to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. repeat this row 7 times. cast off. make another bootee to correspond. to make up: press carefully. sew up seam. make a twisted cord and thread through eyelets at ankle. make and sew a small tassel to each end. =(d) cuddly cape=--_illustrated on page 15_ materials: =4 ply miss canada fingering.= 6 ozs. pink. one medium crochet hook. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= length from neck to hem 16-1/2 ins. 17 ins. 17-1/2 ins. width all round at hem 25 " 27-1/2 " 30 " pattern: =1st row:= k3. *p1. k3. repeat from * to last 2 sts. p1. k1. =2nd row:= k2. *p2. k2. repeat from * to last 3 sts. p2. k1. =3rd row:= k1. p1. k1. *p3. k1. repeat from * to last 2 sts. p1. k1. =4th row:= k2. *p3. k1. repeat from * to last 3 sts. p2. k1. =5th row:= k3. *p2. k2. repeat from * to last 2 sts. p1. k1. =6th row:= k2. *p1. k3. repeat from * to last 3 sts. p1. k2. the cape: cast on 187 sts. knit 9 rows garter st. keeping 5 sts. each end in garter st. for border, work remaining 177 sts. in pattern. continue even until work from beginning measures 16 ins. =(=_6 mos.--16-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--17 ins._=)=. knit 2 rows garter st. proceed:=1st row:= *k6. k3tog. repeat from * to last 7 sts. k7. =2nd and alternate rows:= knit. =3rd row:= k1. *k4. k3tog. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k6. =5th row:= k2. *k2. k3tog. repeat from * to last 5 sts. k5. =7th row:= (eyelets). *k2. k2tog. wl. fwd. repeat from * to last 3 sts. k3. cast off loosely. the hood: cast on 83 sts. knit 9 rows garter st. keeping 5 sts. each end in garter st. for border, work remaining 73 sts. in pattern. continue even in pattern until work from beginning measures 8 ins. =(=_6 mos.--8-1/4 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--8-1/2 ins._=)=. cast off. to make up: press pieces, being careful not to flatten pattern. fold hood in half and sew top seam. put centre of hood to centre of cape 1 inch in from each front edge. sew together. with double wool crochet a cord 30 ins. long. thread through eyelets at neck. make and sew a tassel to each end. crochet another cord 4 ins. long. sew to back of hood as illustrated, and sew a tassel to the end. =(a) baby's bootees=--_illustrated on page 15_ materials: =4 ply miss canada andalusian.= 1 oz. =for needles and tension see page 5.= cast on 42 sts. =1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 7 times, dec. 1. st. at end of last row. proceed:=**1st row:= knit. =2nd and alternate rows:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k1. *wl. fwd. k2tog. k2. repeat from * to end of row. =5th row:= k1. *k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. repeat from * to end of row. =7th row:= k1. *k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to end of row. =9th row:= knit. =10th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1.** repeat from ** to ** twice, then 3rd row (for eyelets at ankle) once. knit 1 row. =to make instep and foot:= k14. on next 13 sts. knit 22 rows garter st. break wool. beginning again where the 14 sts. were left, join wool and with same needle pick up and knit 12 sts. along side of instep, knit across the 13 instep sts., pick up and knit 12 sts. along other side of instep and knit remaining 14 sts. at ankle. 65 sts. on needle. knit 11 rows garter st. =next row:= k1. k2tog. knit to 5 centre sts. k2tog. k1. k2tog. knit to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. repeat this row 6 times. cast off. make another bootee to correspond. to make up: press carefully. sew up seam. make a twisted cord and thread through eyelets at ankle. make and sew a small tassel to each end. =(f) pullover=--_illustrated on page 8_ materials: =miss canada crochet-knitting wool.= 3 ozs. pearl pink. 5 buttons. one stitch holder. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= width all round at underarm 18 ins. 19 ins. 19-1/2 ins. length from top of shoulder 10-1/2 " 11 " 11-1/2 " length of sleeve underarm seam 5-1/2 " 6 " 7 " pattern: =1st row:= knit. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat 1st and 2nd rows once. =5th row:= k2. *p5. k1. repeat from * to last st. k1. =6th row:= k1. p1. *k5. p1 repeat from * to last st. k1. =7th row:= k1. p3. *k1. p5. repeat from * to last 5 sts. k1. p3. k1. =8th row:= k4. *p1. k5. repeat from * to last 5 sts. p1. k4. =9th row:= as 5th row. =10th row:= as 6th row. =11th row:= as 7th row. =12th row:= as 8th row. these 12 rows complete one pattern. front: cast on 56 sts. work 5 rows garter st. =next row:= *k7. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to end of row. 63 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =2nd row:= knit. repeat 1st and 2nd rows once, 1st. row once. work 2 complete patterns. continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 7-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--7-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--8 ins._=)=, ending with purl row. =to shape armholes:= cast off 3 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle every alternate row 3 times. 51 sts. on needle. continue even until armhole measures 2 ins. from first shaping ending with purl row. =to shape neck:= =1st row:= knit. =2nd row:= k1. p9. k31. p9. k1. =3rd row:= knit. =4th row:= as 2nd row. =5th row:= k14. cast off 23 sts. k14. working on one shoulder proceed:=1st row:= k1. p9. k4. keeping 4 sts. at neck edge in garter st. continue even until armhole, from first shaping, measures 3 ins. =(=_6 mos.--3-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--3-1/2 ins._=)=. =to shape shoulder:= at armhole edge cast off 7 sts. every alternate row twice. join wool at neck edge and work other shoulder to correspond. back: work exactly as given for front to 51 sts. on needle, ending with purl row. =to make neck opening and shape neck:= k28. turn. leave remaining 23 sts. on st. holder. working on these 28 sts. proceed:=1st row:= k5. purl to last st. k1. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= as 1st. row. =4th row:= (buttonhole) knit to last 3 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. =5th row:= as 1st. row. keeping garter st. border continue in stocking st. working 3 more buttonholes 4 rows apart ending with purl row. proceed:=1st row:= knit. =2nd row:= k18. p9. k1. =3rd row:= knit to last 3 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. =4th row:= cast off 14 sts. k4. p9. k1. keeping garter st. border of 4 sts. continue even until armhole from first shaping measures 3 ins. =(=_6 mos.--3-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--3-1/2 ins._=)=. shape shoulder as given for front. cast on 5 sts. and knit across 23 sts. from st. holder. work to correspond to other side, omitting buttonholes. sleeves: cast on 28 sts. work 5 rows garter st. proceed:=1st row:= *k3. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to end of row. 35 sts. on needle. continue in stocking st. inc. 1. st. each end of needle every following 10th row to 43 sts. on needle. continue even until sleeve from beginning measures 5-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--6 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--7 ins._=)= ending with purl row. cast off 2 sts. beginning every row to 11 sts. on needle. cast off. to make up: press all pieces carefully. sew all seams. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. sew in sleeves. =(e) girl's bonnet=--_illustrated on page 8_ materials: =3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool.= 1 oz. 2 yds. ribbon. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= width all round brim 11-1/2 ins. 12 ins. 13 ins. cast on 96 sts. work 1-1/4 ins. stocking st. ending with purl row. work 1-1/2 ins. ribbing (k2. p2.) inc. 1. st. at end of last row. with wrong side of work facing proceed:=**1st row:= *k1. (k2tog.) twice. (wl. fwd. k1) 3 times. wl. fwd. (k2tog.) twice. repeat from * to last st. k1. =2nd and 3rd rows:= knit. =4th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat 1st. to 4th rows 9 times. proceed:=1st row:= inc. 1. st. in 1st. st. knit to end of row. =2nd and alternate rows:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= *k5. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k2tog. k5. repeat from * to end of row. =5th row:= knit. =7th row:= *k4. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k2tog. k4. repeat from * to end of row. =9th row:= knit. =11th row:= *k3. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k2tog. k3. repeat from * to end of row. =13th row:= *k2. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k2tog. k2. repeat from * to end of row. =15th row:= *k1. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k2tog. k1. repeat from * to end of row. =17th row:= *sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k2tog. repeat from * to end of row. break wool. thread end through remaining sts. draw up and fasten securely.** frill: cast on 8 sts. =1st row:= knit. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= knit. repeat those 3 rows until piece is long enough to "frill" along turn back part of bonnet. to make up: press carefully. do not press frill. sew frill along turn back. sew up back seam for 2-1/4 ins. from top of bonnet. make ribbon rosettes and sew to bonnet as illustrated. =(d) boy's cap=--_illustrated on page 8_ materials: =3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool.= 1 oz. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= width all round brim 12 ins. 13 ins. 14 ins cast on 107 sts. knit 5 rows garter st. =6th row:= knit. =7th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat 6th and 7th rows until work measures 2-1/4 ins. from beginning, ending with purl row. work 1-1/2 ins. ribbing (k2. p2.) dec. in last row to 97 sts. with wrong side of work facing work from ** to ** as given for girl's bonnet, above. to make up: press lightly. sew up back seam. =(h) baby's 4 ply bootees=--_illustrated on page 3_ materials: =4 ply miss canada fingering.= 3 ozs. will make 2 prs. two no. 9 beehive knitting needles. tension: 7 sts. and 10 rows = 1 inch. cast on 36 sts. work 2 ins. ribbing =(=k2. p2.=)=. proceed:=1st row:= k24. turn. =2nd row:= k12. turn. =3rd row:= k13. turn. =4th row:= k14. turn. =5th row:= k15. turn. =6th row:= k16. turn. continue in this manner until all sts. are worked onto one needle. continue even in garter st. until work measures 4-1/2 ins. from beginning at side edge. =next row:= k1. k2tog. knit to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. knit 3 rows even. repeat last 4 rows twice. 30 sts. on needle. continue even in garter st. until work from beginning measures 6-1/2 ins. at side edge. proceed:=to make toe:= k20. turn. k10. turn. working on these 10 sts. knit 18 rows (9 ridges) for toe flap. =to make foot:= pick up and knit 9 sts. along side of toe flap. knit remaining 10 sts. =next row:= k29. pick up and knit 9 sts. along other side of toe flap. knit remaining 10 sts. 48 sts. on needle. knit 4 ridges. =next row:= k1. k2tog. knit to centre 4 sts. (k2tog.) twice. knit to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. =next row:= knit. repeat these 2 rows twice. cast off. sew leg and foot seam. make another bootee to correspond. _in angora_ [illustration: bonnet and bootees--_see below._ coat--_see page 19._] =angora bonnet= materials: =fuzzy wuzzy angora=. one 1/2-oz. ball white. 2 yds. ribbon. =for needles and tension see angora coat, page 19.= measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= width all round brim 11-1/2 ins. 13 ins. 14 ins. cast on 62 sts. knit 5 rows garter st. work 3 complete patterns as given for coat, see page 19. =next row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat this row 11 times. =next row:= k2. *inc. 1. st. in next st. (k1. p1) twice. inc. 1. st. in next st. (p1. k1) twice. repeat from * 5 times. 74 sts. on needle. work 3 complete patterns. proceed:=1st row:= k1. *k10. k2tog. repeat from * to last st. k1. =2nd and alternate rows:= knit. =3rd row:= k1. *k9. k2tog. repeat from * to last st. k1. =5th row:= k1. *k8. k2tog. repeat from * to last st. k1. continue decreasing in this manner every alternate row to 20 sts. on needle. =next row:= *k2tog. repeat from * to end of row. break wool. thread end through remaining sts. draw up and fasten securely. sew up 3 ins. of back seam. make ribbon rosettes and sew to bonnet as illustrated. =angora bootees= materials: =fuzzy wuzzy angora.= one 1/2-oz. ball white. length of ribbon. =for needles and tension see angora coat, page 19.= cast on 32 sts. knit 5 rows garter st. work 2 complete patterns as given for coat, see page 19. proceed:=1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row once. =3rd row:= (eyelets) k2. *wl. fwd. k2tog. p1. k1. repeat from * to last 2 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat 1st. row twice. =to make foot:= k11. on next 10 sts. knit 20 rows garter st. (10 ridges). (this is for instep). break wool. with right side of work facing join wool, pick up and knit 11 sts. along side of instep, knit the 10 instep sts., pick up and knit 11 sts. along other side of instep and knit remaining 11 sts. 54 sts. on needle. knit 4 ridges. =next row:= k1. k2tog. knit to centre 4 sts. (k2tog.) twice. knit to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. =next row:= knit. repeat these 2 rows twice. cast off. sew up seam. thread ribbon through eyelets at ankle. make another bootee to correspond. =angora coat=--_illustrated on opposite page_ materials: =fuzzy wuzzy angora.= four 1/2-oz. balls white. two no. 9 beehive knitting needles. =(=_6 mos--no. 8_=)= =(=_9 mos.--no. 7_=)= needles. 2 buttons. measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= width all round at underarm 18 ins. 19 ins. 19-1/2 ins. length from top of shoulder 10 " 10-1/2 " 11 " length of sleeve underarm seam 5-1/2 " 6 " 7 " tension: 6-1/2 sts. = 1 inch with no. 9 needles. 6 sts. = 1 inch with no. 8 needles. 5-1/2 sts. = 1 inch with no. 7 needles. pattern: =1st row:= k1 *wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k3. repeat from * to last st. k1. =2nd row:= k1. *p3. k3. repeat from * to last st. k1. =3rd and 4th rows:= as 2nd row. =5th row:= k1. *k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. repeat from * to last st. k1. =6th row:= k1. *k3. p3. repeat from * to last st. k1. =7th and 8th rows:= as 6th row. these 8 rows complete one pattern. back: cast on 62 sts. knit 5 rows garter st. work 7 complete patterns. work from beginning now measures approx. 7 ins. =(=_6 mos.--7-1/4 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--7-1/2 ins._=)=. =to shape armholes:= =1st row:= cast off 3 sts. k1. *k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. repeat from * to last 4 sts. k4. =2nd row:= cast off 3 sts. k1. *k3. p3. repeat from * to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k1. k2tog. k1. *p3. k3. repeat from * to last 4 sts. p1. p2tog. k1. =4th row:= *k3. p3. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k3. p2. k1. =5th row:= k1. k2tog. *k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. repeat from * to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. =6th row:= k1. p1. *k3. p3. repeat from * to last 5 sts. p3. k2. =7th row:= k1. k2tog. k2. *p3. k3. repeat from * to last 5 sts. p2. p2tog. k1. =8th row:= k1. *k3. p3. repeat from * to last st. k1. work 1 complete pattern then 1st. to 7th row of next pattern. =next row:= k1. (k3. p3) twice. k24. (k3. p3) twice. k1. =to shape shoulders:= =1st row:= cast off 5 sts. k2. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k27. (wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k3) twice. k1. =2nd row:= cast off 5 sts. k2. p3. k27. p3. k3. p1. k1. =3rd row:= cast off 5 sts. k27. p3. k3. p1. k1. =4th row:= cast off 5 sts. k27. p2. k1. cast off. right front: cast on 31 sts. knit 5 rows garter st. proceed:**=1st row:= k6. *wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k3. repeat from * to last st. k1. =2nd row:= k1. *p3. k3. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k6. =3rd row:= k6. *p3. k3. repeat from * to last st. k1. =4th row:= as 2nd row. =5th row:= k6. *k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. repeat from * to last st. k1. =6th row:= k1. *k3. p3. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k6. =7th row:= k6. *k3. p3. repeat from * to last st. k1. =8th row:= k1. *k3. p3. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k6.** repeat from ** to ** 6 times, then 1st. row once. =to shape armhole:= =1st row:= cast off 3 sts. k1. *k3. p3. repeat from * to last 9 sts. k9. =2nd row:= k6. *p3. k3. repeat from * to last 4 sts. p1. p2tog. k1. =3rd row:= *k3. p3. repeat from * to last 9 sts. k9. =4th row:= k6. *k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. repeat from * to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. =5th row:= k1. p1. *k3. p3. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k6. =6th row:= k6. *k3. p3. repeat from * to last 8 sts. k3. p2. p2tog. k1. =7th row:= k1. *k3. p3. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k6. repeat from ** to ** once. =to shape neck:= =1st row:= k12. (wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k3) twice. k1. =2nd row:= k1. (p3. k3) twice. k12. =3rd row:= k12. (p3. k3) twice. k1. =4th row:= as 2nd row. =5th row:= (buttonhole) k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. k11. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k1. =6th row:= k1. (k3. p3) twice. k12. =7th row:= cast off 10 sts. k2. (k3. p3) twice. k1. =8th row:= k1. (k3. p3) twice. k2. =9th row:= k2. (wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k3) twice. k1. =10th row:= k1. (p3. k3) twice. k2. =11th row:= k2. (p3. k3) twice. k1. =to shape shoulder:= =1st row:= cast off 5 sts. k2. p3. k5. =2nd row:= k5. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k2. =3rd row:= cast off 5 sts. p3. k2. =4th row:= knit. cast off. left front: cast on 31 sts. knit 5 rows garter st. proceed:***=1st row:= k1. *wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k3. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k6. =2nd row:= k6. *p3. k3. repeat from * to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k1. *p3. k3. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k6. =4th row:= as 2nd row. =5th row:= k1. *k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k6. =6th row:= k6. *k3. p3. repeat from * to last st. k1. =7th row:= k1. *k3. p3. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k6. =8th row:= k6. *k3. p3. repeat from * to last st. k1.*** repeat from *** to *** 6 times. =to shape armhole:= =1st row:= cast off 3 sts. k1. *k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. repeat from * to last 9 sts. k9. =2nd row:= k6. *p3. k3. repeat from * to last 4 sts. p3. k1. =3rd row:= k1. k2tog. k1. *p3. k3. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k6. =4th row:= k6. *p3. k3. repeat from * to last 3 sts. p2. k1. =5th row:= k1. k2tog. *k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k6. =6th row:= k6. *k3. p3. repeat from * to last 2 sts. k2. =7th row:= k1. k2tog. k2. *p3. k3. repeat from * to last 9 sts. p3. k6. =8th row:= k6. *k3. p3. repeat from * to last st. k1. repeat from *** to *** once. =to shape neck:= =1st row:= k1. (wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k3) twice. k12. =2nd row:= k12. (p3. k3) twice. k1. =3rd row:= k1. (p3. k3) twice. k12. =4th row:= as 2nd row. =5th row:= (buttonhole) k1. (k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd.) twice. k8. k2tog. wl. fwd. k2. =6th row:= cast off 10 sts. k2. (k3. p3) twice. k1. =7th row:= k1. (k3. p3) twice. k2. =8th row:= k2. (k3. p3) twice. k1. =9th row:= k1. (wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k3) twice. k2. =10th row:= k2. (p3. k3) twice. k1. =11th row:= k1. (p3. k3) twice. k2. =12th row:= as 10th row. =to shape shoulder:= =1st row:= cast off 5 sts. k5. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k2. =2nd row:= k5. p3. k2. =3rd row:= cast off 5 sts. p3. k2. =4th row:= knit. cast off. sleeves: cast on 32 sts. =1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 9 times. =11th row:= k2. *inc. 1. st. in next st. (k1. p1) twice. inc. 1. st. in next st. (p1. k1) twice. repeat from * twice. 38 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until sleeve from beginning measures 5-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--6 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--7 ins._=)=. keeping continuity of pattern cast off 2 sts. beginning every row to 14 sts. on needle. cast off. to make up: press pieces carefully. sew all seams. sew in sleeves. make a link with the buttons and thread through buttonholes. (g) baby's 3 ply bootees--_illustrated on page 3_ materials: =3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool=. 1 oz. white. small quantity pink. two no. 12 beehive knitting needles. two buttons. tension: 9 sts. and 11 rows = 1 inch. with pink wool cast on 48 sts. work 7 rows ribbing (k2. p2). join white wool. knit 1 row. work 7 rows ribbing. join pink wool. knit 1 row. work 7 rows ribbing. join white wool and working in garter st. proceed:=1st row:= k32. turn. =2nd row:= k16. turn. =3rd row:= k17. turn. =4th row:= k18. turn. continue in this manner, knitting 1 extra st. in every row until all sts. are worked onto one needle. knit 1-1/2 ins. garter st. dec. 1. st. each end of needle next and every following 8th row to 40 sts. knit 16 rows. (8 ridges). =next row:= with wrong side of work facing k26. turn. k12. working on these 12 sts. knit 27 rows, ending with wrong side of work facing. break wool. join white wool where 14 sts. were left. k14. break white wool. join pink wool. =next row:= k14. pick up and knit 15 sts. along side of foot. knit the 12 sts. across toe. pick up and knit 15 sts. along other side of foot. k14. 70 sts. on needle. knit 6 ridges. =next row:= k1. k2tog. knit to centre 4 sts. (k2tog.) twice. knit to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. =next row:= knit. repeat these 2 rows twice. cast off. strap: with pink wool cast on 40 sts. knit 3 ridges. cast off. make a loop at one end and sew button to other end. sew back seam of bootee. sew centre of strap to back seam of bootee just above pink foot. make another bootee to correspond. =cuddly hour= [illustration: knitted shawl _see opposite page._] =knitted shawl= _illustrated on opposite page_ materials: =2 ply beehive fingering=. 6 ozs. white. two no. 7 beehive knitting needles. measurements: approx. 40 ins. × 40 ins. tension: 7 sts. and 8 rows = 1 inch. the centre: cast on 3 sts. =1st row:= w.r.n. knit to end of row. repeat first row until there are 64 loops up each side of work. =next row:= w.r.n. k3tog. knit to end of row. repeat last row to 3 sts. cast off. _the shawl may be made larger by repeating the first row as given for centre until extra loops, divisible by 16, are obtained at each side. then for every extra 16 loops there will be one more pattern in the border at each side of the shawl._ the border: with right side of work facing, pick up and knit the loops from one side. =next row:= w.r.n. knit to end of row. proceed:=1st row:= w.r.n. k1. *k5. (wl. fwd. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o.) 3 times. k5. repeat from * to end of row. =2nd and alternate rows:= w.r.n. knit to end of row. =3rd row:= w.r.n. k3. *k2. k2tog. wl. fwd. k1. (wl. fwd. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o.) 3 times. k5. repeat from * to end of row. =5th row:= w.r.n. k5. *(k2tog. wl. fwd.) twice. k1. (wl. fwd. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o.) 3 times. k5. repeat from * to end of row. =7th row:= w.r.n. k5. *(k2tog. wl. fwd.) 3 times. k1. (wl. fwd. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o.) 3 times. k3. repeat from * to last 2 sts. k2. =9th row:= w.r.n. k5. *(k2tog. wl. fwd.) 3 times. k3. (wl. fwd. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o.) 3 times. k1. repeat from * to last 4 sts. k4. =11th row:= w.r.n. k5. k2tog. *wl. fwd. (k2tog. wl. fwd.) twice. k5. (wl. fwd. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o.) twice. wl. fwd. sl. 1. k2tog. p.s.s.o. repeat from * to last 20 sts. wl. fwd. (k2tog. wl. fwd.) twice. k5. (wl. fwd. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o.) 3 times. k5. =13th row:= w.r.n. k5. k2tog. *wl. fwd. (k2tog. wl. fwd.) twice. k7. wl. fwd. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. wl. fwd. sl. 1. k2tog. p.s.s.o. repeat from * to last 6 sts. wl. fwd. k6. =15th row:= w.r.n. k5. k2tog. *wl. fwd. (k2tog. wl. fwd.) twice. k9. wl. fwd. sl. 1. k2tog. p.s.s.o. repeat from * to last 8 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. wl. fwd. k6. =16th row:= w.r.n. knit to end of row. repeat these 16 rows 3 times. then 1st. to 15th row once. =16th row:= k144 sts. cast on 23 sts. (these 23 sts. form beginning of peak). the peak: k23. turn. proceed: =1st row:= sl. 1. k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. k2. (wl. fwd. k2tog.) twice. k5. wl. fwd. k2tog. wl. fwd. k2. =2nd row:= k18. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. (k2tog.) twice. turn. (the last 2 sts. knit together are 1. st. from the peak and 1. st. from the shawl, thus attaching the peak to the shawl. the peak is attached in this manner every alternate row as instructed). =3rd row:= sl. 1. k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. k3. (wl. fwd. k2tog.) twice. k5. wl. fwd. k2tog. wl. fwd. k2. =4th row:= k19. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. (k2tog.) twice. turn. =5th row:= sl. 1. k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. k4. (wl. fwd. k2tog.) twice. k5. wl. fwd. k2tog. wl. fwd. k2. =6th row:= k20. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. (k2tog.) twice. turn. =7th row:= sl. 1. k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. k5. (wl. fwd. k2tog.) twice. k5. wl. fwd. k2tog. wl. fwd. k2. =8th row:= k21. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. (k2tog.) twice. turn. =9th row:= sl. 1. k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. k6. (wl. fwd. k2tog.) twice. k5. wl. fwd. k2tog. wl. fwd. k2. =10th row:= k22. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. (k2tog.) twice. turn. =11th row:= sl. 1. k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. k7. (wl. fwd. k2tog.) twice. k5. wl. fwd. k2tog. wl. fwd. k2. =12th row:= k23. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. (k2tog.) twice. turn. =13th row:= sl. 1. k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. k17. wl. fwd. k2tog. wl. fwd. k2. =14th row:= k24. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. (k2tog.) twice. turn. =15th row:= sl. 1. k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. k22. =16th row:= cast off 7 sts. loosely. k17. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. (k2tog.) twice. turn. this completes 1 peak. repeat from 1st. to 16th row until all sts. from the border have been worked up. slip these sts. on spare needle to be carried forward for next side. with right side of work facing, begin again from beginning of border. after working each border pick up sts. of last row of peaks and continue in pattern. when the 4 sides are completed, cast off peak sts. sew together cast-on and cast-off edges of peak. join together corners of border by sewing through loops very loosely in herring bone st. roll in a damp towel for several hours, then spread out flat, pinning each peak out separately with rustless pins and leave until dry. (=c=) =slippers=--_illustrated on page 15_ materials: =4 ply miss canada fingering=. 1 oz. will make 2 prs. two small buttons. two rose buds. =for needles and tension see page 5.= beginning with slipper sole, cast on 19 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. continue in moss st. inc. 1. st. each end of needle next and every alternate row to 27 sts. on needle. continue in moss st. dec. 1. st. each end of needle every alternate row to 19 sts. on needle. work 2 rows even, casting on 6 sts. at beginning of 2nd row for heel of slipper. =next row:= inc. 1. st. in 1st. st. (toe of slipper). moss st. to end of row. work 1 row even. repeat last 2 rows to 30 sts. on needle, ending at heel edge. =next row:= cast off 16 sts. k1. p1. k1. knit to end of row. =next row:= k1. p10. k1. p1. k1. =next row:= k1. p1. k1. knit to end of row. repeat last 2 rows 4 times, ending at toe edge. work 2 rows in moss st. casting on 16 sts. at beginning of 2nd row. continue in moss st. dec. 1. st. at toe edge on next and every alternate row to 25 sts. cast off. make another slipper to correspond. =ankle strap:= (make 2) cast on 29 sts. work 1 row moss st. =2nd row:= (buttonhole) k1. p1. w.r.n. p2tog. moss st. to end of row. work 1 row moss st. cast off in moss st. to make up: sew centre back seam. put back point of sole to this seam and sew sole into position. sew up toe opening. sew ankle strap to back of slipper. sew button to one end. sew rose bud to front of each slipper. _cuddly hour_ [illustration: crocheted shawl] materials: =2 ply beehive fingering=. 5 ozs. one no. 1 steel crochet hook.(american gauge). measurements: 27 ins. × 27 ins. tension: 1 pattern and 4 rows = 3/4 inch. the centre: ch. 256 sts. =1st row:= 1. s.c. in 8th ch. from hook. *ch. 3. miss 3 sts. 1. s.c. in next st. repeat from * to end of row. 63 loops in row. ch. 3. turn. =2nd row:= 4. d.c. in 1st. loop. (1 block). *ch. 2. 1. s.c. in next loop. ch. 2. 4. d.c. in next loop. repeat from * to end of row. ch. 4. turn. =3rd row:= 1. s.c. in 4th d.c. of 1st. block. *ch. 3. 1. s.c. in 1st. d.c. of next block. ch. 3. 1. s.c. in 4th d.c. of same block. repeat from * to end of row. ch. 5. turn. =4th row:= 1. s.c. in 1st. loop. *ch. 2. 4. d.c. in next loop. ch. 2. 1. s.c. in next loop. repeat from * to end of row, ending with 1. s.c. in last loop. ch. 2. 1. d.c. in 2nd st. of turning ch. of previous row. ch. 4. turn. =5th row:= *1. s.c. in 1st. d.c. of next block. ch. 3. 1. s.c. in 4th d.c. of same block. ch. 3. repeat from * to end of row, ending with 1. s.c. in 3rd st. of turning ch. of previous row. ch. 3. turn. these last 4 rows complete one pattern. continue even in pattern until work measures 24 ins. from beginning ending with 3rd pattern row. do not turn. work a row of loops (as in 1st. row) along side of work as follows:*ch. 3. miss a block row. 1. s.c. in the end of a loop row. repeat from * to end of row. fasten off. join wool at opposite side and work a row of loops along the side in same manner. do not break wool. the border: =1st round:= ch. 3. 4. d.c. in corner of the centre. (the ch. 3. counts as 1. d.c., making this a 5. d.c. group). *(ch. 3. 1. s.c. in next loop) twice. ch. 3. 3. d.c. in next loop. repeat from * around the centre, working 5 d.c. in each corner. join with s.s. =2nd round:= ch. 4. 1. d.c. in next d.c. (1 space just made). ch. 1. 2. d.c. ch. 2. 2. d.c. all in next d.c. (centre of the 5. d.c. group). (ch. 1. 1. d.c. in next d.c.) twice. *ch. 3. miss. 1. loop. 1. s.c. in next loop. ch. 3. 1. d.c. in next d.c. ch. 1. 2. d.c. ch. 2. 2. d.c. all in next d.c. (centre of the 3. d.c. group). ch. 1. 1. d.c. in next d.c. repeat from * around the centre, working the succeeding corners to correspond with 1st. join with s.s. =3rd round:= s.s. into 1st. space. ch. 4. 1. d.c. in next space. (1 space just made). ch. 1. 3. d.c. ch. 2. 3. d.c. all in next space. (centre space of scallop) (ch. 1. 1. d.c. in next space) twice. *ch. 1. 1. s.c. in next loop. ch. 3. 1. s.c. in next loop. ch. 1. 1. d.c. in next space. ch. 1. 2. d.c. ch. 2. 2. d.c. all in next space. (centre space of scallop). ch. 1. 1. d.c. in next space. repeat from * around the centre, working the succeeding corners to correspond with 1st. join with s.s. =4th round:= s.s. into 1st. space. ch. 4. 1. d.c. in next space. (1 space just made). ch. 1. miss 1. d.c. 1. d.c. in next d.c. ch. 1. 3. d.c. ch. 2. 3. d.c. all in next space. (centre space of scallop). ch. 1. miss 1. d.c. 1. d.c. in next d.c. (ch. 1. 1. d.c. in next space) twice. *ch. 3. miss 1 space. 1. s.c. in next loop. ch. 3. miss 1 space. 1. d.c. in next space. ch. 1. 2. d.c. ch. 2. 2. d.c. in next space. (centre space of scallop). ch. 1. 1. d.c. in next space. repeat from * around the centre working the succeeding corners to correspond with 1st. join with s.s. =5th round:= s.s. into 1st. space. ch. 8. 1. s.c. in 5th ch. from hook. 1. d.c. in next space. make 1 picot as follows:ch. 5. 1. s.c. in top of last d.c. worked. 1. d.c. in next space. picot. 1. d.c. in centre d.c. of 3. d.c. group. (picot. 1. d.c. in centre space of scallop) 4 times. picot. 1. d.c. in centre d.c. of 3. d.c. group. (picot. 1. d.c. in next space) 3 times. *ch. 1. 1. s.c. in each of next 2 loops. ch. 1. 1. d.c. in next space. picot. 1. d.c. in same space. (picot. 1. d.c. in centre space of scallop) 4 times. (picot. 1. d.c. in next space) twice. repeat from * around the centre, working the succeeding corners to correspond with 1st. join with s.s. fasten off. (b) diamond and smocked cover _illustrated on page 24_ materials: =p & b superior double knitting=. 14 ozs. two no. 6 beehive knitting needles. measurements: 30 ins. × 36 ins. tension: 4 sts. and 6 rows = 1 inch. cast on 137 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row for 3 ins. proceed:**_1st row:_ (k1. p1) 5 times. k1. p3tog. *w.r.n. (p2. k2) 3 times. p2. w.r.n. p5tog. repeat from * to last 28 sts. w.r.n. (p2. k2) 3 times. p2. w.r.n. p3tog. k1. (p1. k1) 5 times. =2nd row:= (k1. p1) 6 times. k1. *(k2. p2) 3 times. k3. p1. k1. repeat from * to last 10 sts. (p1. k1) 5 times. =3rd row:= (k1. p1) 6 times. k1. *w.r.n. (p2. k2) 3 times. p2. w.o.n. k1. p1. k1. repeat from * to last 10 sts. (p1. k1) 5 times. =4th row:= (k1. p1) 7 times. *(k2. p2) 3 times. k2. (p1. k1) twice. p1. repeat from * to last 9 sts. k1. (p1. k1) 4 times. =5th row:= (k1. p1) 7 times. *w.r.n. (p2. k2) 3 times. p2. w.r.n. (p1. k1) twice. p1. repeat from * to last 9 sts. k1. (p1. k1) 4 times. =6th row:= (k1. p1) 7 times. k1. *(k2. p2) 3 times. k3. (p1. k1) 3 times. repeat from * to last 8 sts. (p1. k1) 4 times. =7th row:= (k1. p1) 7 times. k1. *w.r.n. (p2. k2) 3 times. p2. w.o.n. (k1. p1) 3 times. k1. repeat from * to last 8 sts. (p1. k1) 4 times. =8th row:= (k1. p1) 8 times. *(k2. p2) 3 times. k2. (p1. k1) 4 times. p1. repeat from * to last 7 sts. k1. (p1. k1) 3 times. =9th row:= (k1. p1) 8 times. *w.r.n. p2. count over 10 sts. from point of left hand needle. insert point of right hand needle between the 10th and 11th sts. on left hand needle. pass the wool around the point of the right hand needle and drawing a loop through to right side of work between 10th and 11th sts., place it on the left hand needle. knit the loop tog. with the next st. on left hand needle. k1. (p2. k2) twice. p2. w.r.n. (p1. k1) 4 times. p1. repeat from * to last 7 sts. k1. (p1. k1) 3 times. =10th row:= (k1. p1) 8 times. k1. *(k2. p2) 3 times. k3. (p1. k1) 5 times. repeat from * to last 6 sts. (p1. k1) 3 times. =11th row:= (k1. p1) 7 times. *k3tog. w.r.n. (p2. k2) 3 times. p2. w.o.n. k3tog. (p1. k1) twice. p1. repeat from * to last 9 sts. k1. (p1. k1) 4 times. =12th row:= (k1. p1) 8 times. *(k2. p2) 3 times. k2. (p1. k1) 4 times. p1. repeat from * to last 7 sts. k1. (p1. k1) 3 times. =13th row:= (k1. p1) 6 times. k1. *p3tog. w.r.n. (p2. k2) 3 times. p2. w.r.n. p3tog. k1. p1. k1. repeat from * to last 10 sts. (p1. k1) 5 times. =14th row:= (k1. p1) 7 times. k1. *(k2. p2) 3 times. k3. (p1. k1) 3 times. repeat from * to last 8 sts. (p1. k1) 4 times. =15th row:= (k1. p1) 6 times. *k3tog. w.r.n. (p2. k2) 3 times. p2. w.o.n. k3tog. p1. repeat from * to last 11 sts. k1. (p1. k1) 5 times. =16th row:= (k1. p1) 7 times. *(k2. p2) 3 times. k2. (p1. k1) twice. p1. repeat from * to last 9 sts. k1. (p1. k1) 4 times.** repeat from ** to ** 11 times, then 1st. row once. =next row:= (k1. p1) 12 times. inc. 1. st. in next st. *(k1. p1) 3 times. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * 10 times. (k1. p1) 11 times. k1. 137 sts. on needle. work 3 ins. moss st. to correspond with border at beginning. cast off in moss pattern. =(e) cot cover= _illustrated on page 25_ materials: =beehive lustre crepe.= 16 ozs. two no. 9 beehive knitting needles. measurements: 36 ins. × 36 ins. tension: 6-1/2 sts. and 9 rows = 1 inch. 4 blocks make 1 large square. 9 large squares (36 blocks) make up the cover. the blocks: cast on 2 sts. =1st row:= w.r.n. knit to end of row. repeat 1st. row 3 times. =5th row:= w.r.n. k2. wl. fwd. k1. wl. fwd. k3. =6th row:= w.r.n. k3. p3. k3. =7th row:= w.r.n. k3. wl. fwd. k3. wl. fwd. k4. =8th row:= w.r.n. k4. p5. k4. =9th row:= w.r.n. k4. wl. fwd. k5. wl. fwd. k5. =10th row:= w.r.n. k5. p7. k5. =11th row:= w.r.n. k5. wl. fwd. k7. wl. fwd. k6. =12th row:= w.r.n. k6. p9. k6. =13th row:= w.r.n. k6. wl. fwd. k9. wl. fwd. k7. =14th row:= w.r.n. k7. p11. k7. =15th row:= w.r.n. k7. wl. fwd. k11. wl. fwd. k8. =16th row:= w.r.n. k8. p13. k8. =17th row:= w.r.n. k8. wl. fwd. k13. wl. fwd. k9. =18th row:= w.r.n. k9. p15. k9. =19th row:= w.r.n. k9. wl. fwd. k15. wl. fwd. k10. =20th row:= w.r.n. k10. p17. k10. =21st row:= w.r.n. k10. sl.1. k1. p.s.s.o. k13. k2tog. k11. =22nd row:= w.r.n. k11. p15. k11. =23rd row:= w.r.n. k11. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. wl. fwd. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k7. k2tog. wl. fwd. k2tog. k12. =24th row:= w.r.n. k12. p13. k12. =25th row:= w.r.n. k12. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. wl. fwd. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k5. k2tog. wl. fwd. k2tog. k13. =26th row:= w.r.n. k13. p11. k13. =27th row:= w.r.n. k13. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. wl. fwd. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k3. k2tog. wl. fwd. k2tog. k14. =28th row:= w.r.n. k14. p9. k14. =29th row:= w.r.n. k14. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. wl. fwd. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k1. k2tog. wl. fwd. k2tog. k15. =30th row:= w.r.n. k15. p7. k15. =31st row:= w.r.n. k15. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. wl. fwd. sl. 1. k2tog. p.s.s.o. wl. fwd. k2tog. k16. =32nd row:= w.r.n. k16. p5. k16. =33rd row:= w.r.n. k16. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k1. k2tog. k17. =34th row:= w.r.n. k17. p3. k17. =35th row:= w.r.n. k17. sl. 1. k2tog. p.s.s.o. k18. =36th row:= w.r.n. knit to end of row. =37th row:= as 36th row. =38th row:= w.r.n. *k1. p1. repeat from * to last st. k1. =39th row:= w.r.n. *k1. p1. repeat from * to last 2 sts. k2. =40th row:= w.r.n. k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to last st. k1. =41st row:= w.r.n. k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. =42nd row:= w.r.n. k1. purl to last st. k1. 44 sts. on needle. proceed:**=1st row:= k1. p2tog. purl to last 3 sts. p2tog. k1. =2nd row:= k1. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 3 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. =3rd row:= as 1st. row. =4th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =5th row:= k1. k2tog. knit to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. =6th row:= as 4th row.** repeat from ** to ** 5 times. =next row:= k1. p2tog. purl to last 3 sts. p2tog. k1. =next row:= knit. repeat these last 2 rows once. (k2tog.) twice. fasten off. make 35 more blocks in this manner. arrange 4 blocks with the petals of flower towards the centre to make one large square. join together the sides with the loops by sewing in herringbone st. sew the other sides in the usual manner. make 9 large squares. the border: cast on 2 sts. =1st row:= k1. wl. fwd. k1. =2nd and 4th rows:= knit. =3rd row:= k1. wl. fwd. k2. =5th row:= k1. wl. fwd. knit to end of row. =6th row:= knit. repeat 5th and 6th rows to 18 sts. on needle. knit 30 ins. even in garter st. ending at longer edge. proceed:_1st row:_ knit to last 4 sts. k2tog. wl. fwd. k2tog. =2nd and alternate rows:= knit. repeat 1st. and 2nd rows to 4 sts. on needle. =next row:= knit. =next row:= k2tog. wl. fwd. k2tog. =next row:= knit. =next row:= k1. k2tog. fasten off. make 3 more pieces to correspond. press very lightly and sew to centre. sew the mitred corners. [illustration: bb logo] --_for cots_ [illustration: (a) (_above_)--_see page 26._ (b) (_above_)--_see page 23._ (c) (_left_)--_see page 26._] _and prams_ [illustration: (d) (_above_)--_see page 26._ (e) (_above_)--_see page 23._ (f) (_right_)--_see page 26._] =(c) diamond cover=--_illustrated on page 24_ materials: =p & b superior double knitting=. 14 ozs. two no. 8 beehive knitting needles. 2 yds. ribbon 3 ins. wide. measurements: 26 ins. × 30 ins. tension: 5 sts. and 7 rows = 1 inch. cast on 139 sts. knit 2 ins. even in garter st. proceed:**=1st row:= k20. *p3. k21. repeat from * to last 23 sts. p3. k20. =2nd row:= k10. p8. *k3. p1. k3. p17. repeat from * to last 25 sts. k3. p1. k3. p8. k10. =3rd row:= k17. *p3. k3. p3. k15. repeat from * to last 26 sts. p3. k3. p3. k17. =4th row:= k10. p6. *k3. p5. k3. p13. repeat from * to last 27 sts. k3. p5. k3. p6. k10. =5th row:= k15. *p3. k7. p3. k11. repeat from * to last 28 sts. p3. k7. p3. k15. =6th row:= k10. p4. *k3. p9. repeat from * to last 17 sts. k3. p4. k10. =7th row:= k13. *p3. k11. p3. k7. repeat from * to last 30 sts. p3. k11. p3. k13. =8th row:= k10. p2. *k3. p13. k3. p5. repeat from * to last 31 sts. k3. p13. k3. p2. k10. =9th row:= k11. *p3. k15. p3. k3. repeat from * to last 32 sts. p3. k15. p3. k11. =10th row:= k10. *k3. p17. k3. p1. repeat from * to last 33 sts. k3. p17. k13. =11th row:= k10. p1. *k21. p3. repeat from * to last 32 sts. k21. p1. k10. work back from 10th to 2nd row.** repeat from ** to ** until work measures approx. 28 ins. ending with 1st. pattern row. knit 2 ins. even in garter st. cast off. to make up: press lightly. make ribbon bow and sew to cover as illustrated. =(a) the layette cover=--_illustrated on page 24_ _this matches the layette shown on page 3_ materials: =4 ply beehive fingering=. 4 ozs. white. 8 ozs. pink no. 2019. two no. 9 beehive knitting needles. two stitch holders. measurements: 28 ins. × 30 ins. tension: 7 sts. and 9 rows = 1 inch. with pink wool cast on 193 sts. knit 32 rows garter st. =33rd row:= k21. leave these 21 sts. on st. holder. knit to last 21 sts. leave these 21 sts. on 2nd st. holder. working on remaining 151 sts. repeat pattern as given for baby's coat (a), see page 2, until work measures approx. 28 ins. from beginning ending with the 8th pattern row. repeat first 4 pattern rows. leave these sts. on spare needle. proceed:with pink wool pick up 21 sts. from the 2nd st. holder and knit even in garter st. until same length as centre piece, ending at inside edge. leave these 21 sts. on st. holder. with pink wool pick up 21 sts. from first st. holder and knit even in garter st. until same length as centre piece, ending at outside edge. =next row:= with pink wool knit the 21 sts. of border, the 151 sts. of centre, the 21 sts. of the other border onto same needle. 193 sts. on needle. knit 32 rows garter st. cast off. to make up: sew the borders to the centre. press cover carefully. =(d) cable st. cover=--_illustrated on page 25_ materials: =p & b superior double knitting=. 16 ozs. two no. 6 beehive knitting needles. one needle with points at both ends. measurements: 30 ins. × 35 ins. tension: 4 sts. and 6 rows = 1 inch. cast on 144 sts. =1st row:= *k2. p2. repeat from * to last 4 sts. k2. p1. k1. =2nd row:= as 1st. row. =3rd row:= k1. p1. k2. *p2. k2. repeat from * to end of row. =4th row:= as 3rd row. these 4 rows form border pattern. continue in pattern until work measures approx. 3-1/2 ins. ending with 2nd pattern row. =next row:= k1. p1. k2. (p2. k2) 3 times. p2. *k12. p2. inc. 1. st. in each of next 6 sts. p2. repeat from * to last 16 sts. (p2. k2) 4 times. 174 sts. on needle. =next row:= k1. p1. k2. (p2. k2) 3 times. k2. *p12. k2. repeat from * to last 16 sts. (p2. k2) 4 times. proceed:**=1st row:= work 16 sts. border pattern. p2. *k12. p2. repeat from * to last 16 sts. work 16 sts. border pattern. =2nd row:= work 16 sts. border pattern. k2. *p12. k2. repeat from * to last 16 sts. work 16 sts. border pattern. repeat 1st. and 2nd rows twice. =7th row:= work 16 sts. border pattern. p2. *k12. p2. taking the needle with points at both ends, slip next 6 sts. onto it letting this needle fall to back of work. knit next 6 sts. bring the other 6 sts. forward and slip them onto needle again. knit these 6 sts. (the crossing of these 12 sts. will be termed "twist" throughout). p2. repeat from * to last 16 sts. work 16 sts. border pattern. repeat 2nd row once, then 1st. and 2nd rows 3 times. =15th row:= work 16 sts. border pattern. p2. *twist. p2. k12. p2. repeat from * to last 16 sts. work 16 sts. border pattern. =16th row:= as 2nd row.** repeat from ** to ** 9 times, the first 7 rows of next pattern once, the 2nd row once, 1st. and 2nd rows 3 times, then 1st. row once. =next row:= work 16 sts. border pattern. k2. *(p2tog.) 6 times. k2. p12. k2. repeat from * to last 16 sts. work 16 sts. border pattern. 144 sts. on needle. work 3-1/2 ins. border pattern. cast off in pattern. =(f) crocheted cover=--_illustrated on page 25_ materials: =4 ply beehive fingering=. 13 ozs. one no. 0 steel crochet hook (american gauge). 2 yds. ribbon, 3 ins. wide. measurements: 30 ins. × 36 ins. tension: 3 groups and 3 rows = 1 inch. ch. 172 sts. =1st row:= w.o.h. draw loop through 4th ch. from hook. w.o.h. draw loop through same ch. (5 loops on hook). w.o.h. draw loop through all 5 sts. ch. 1. *miss 1. ch. w.o.h. draw loop through next ch. w.o.h. draw loop through same ch. w.o.h. draw loop through all 5 sts. ch. 1. repeat from * to end of row. ch. 3. turn. 85 groups in row. =2nd row:= w.o.h. draw loop through space between 1st. and 2nd groups. w.o.h. draw loop through same space. w.o.h. draw loop through all 5 sts. ch. 1. *w.o.h. draw loop through space between next 2 groups. w.o.h. draw loop through same space. w.o.h. draw loop through all 5 sts. ch. 1. repeat from * to end of row, working the last group between the ch. 3. and 1st. group of previous row. ch. 3. turn. repeat 2nd row until work measures 35 ins. from beginning, omitting turning ch. in last row. turn. proceed:=1st round:= ch. 5. 1. d.c. in 2nd group. *ch. 2. 1. d.c. in next group. repeat from * to corner. ch. 2. work 1 more d.c. in corner st. repeat from * around cover working the d.c. in the ends of each row, a 2nd space in each corner and joining to beginning of round with s.s. =2nd round:= *ch. 5. 1. s.c. in 4th ch. from hook. 1. s.c. in next d.c. repeat from * around cover joining to beginning of round with s.s. fasten off. to make up: press lightly. make ribbon bow and sew to cover as illustrated. =(b) girl's panties=--_illustrated on page 29_ materials: =beehive lustre crepe=. 2 ozs. seacrest. one stitch holder. length of elastic. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= length from waist to crotch at front 7-1/2 ins. 8 ins. 9 ins. front: cast on 34 sts. knit 6 rows garter st. break wool and leave these sts. on st. holder until the other leg band has been worked. work 2nd leg band to correspond but do not break wool. =next row:= k34. cast on 12 sts. knit the 34 sts. from st. holder onto same needle. 80 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k1. p48. turn. =2nd row:= k18. turn. =3rd row:= p21. turn. =4th row:= k24. turn. continue in this manner, that is working 3 sts. more in every row until 4 sts. are left unworked at each end of needle. =next row:= p75. k1. proceed:=1st row:= k34. k2tog. t.b.l. k8. k2tog. k34. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= knit. =4th row:= as 2nd row. =5th row:= k34. k2tog. t.b.l. k6. k2tog. k34. work 3 rows even, also after 9th and 13th rows. =9th row:= k34. k2tog. t.b.l. k4. k2tog. k34. =13th row:= k34. k2tog. t.b.l. k2. k2tog. k34. =17th row:= k34. k2tog. t.b.l. k2tog. k34. 70 sts. on needle. continue even in stocking st. until work from 12 cast-on sts. in centre of work measures 5 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--5 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--5-1/2 ins._=)= ending with purl row. dec. 1. st. each end of needle on next and every following 6th row to 64 sts. on needle. work 5 rows even. proceed:=1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 5 times. =7th row:= (eyelets). k2. *wl. fwd. k2tog. p1. k1. repeat from * to last 2 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat 1st. row 4 times. cast off in ribbing. back: work exactly as given for front to 64 sts. on needle. work 3 rows even. =to shape back:= =1st row:= k58. turn. =2nd row:= p52. turn. =3rd row:= k46. turn. =4th row:= p40. turn. =5th row:= k34. turn. =6th row:= p28. turn. =7th row:= k22. turn. =8th row:= p16. turn. =9th row:= knit to end of row. =10th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. work ribbing as given for front. cast off in ribbing. to make up: press carefully. sew side and crotch seams. thread elastic through eyelets at waist. * * * * * =(a) girl's dress=--_continued from page 28_ neckband: sew shoulder seams. with right side of work facing, pick up and knit 18 sts. along back of neck, 11 sts. along left side, 19 sts. from st. holder at front, 11 sts. along right side and 18 sts. along back. 77 sts. on needle. knit 3 rows garter st. =4th row:= knit to last 3 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. cast off loosely. sleeves: cast on 36 sts. knit 8 rows garter st. =9th row:= k7. (inc. 1. st. in next st.) 8 times. (inc. 2 sts. in next st.) 7 times. (inc. 1. st. in next st.) 7 times. k7. 65 sts. on needle. =10th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =11th row:= knit. repeat 10th and 11th rows once. knit 3 rows garter st. repeat pattern as given for front, working from ** to 10th row once, then from ** to 4th row once. knit 2 rows garter st. =to shape cap:= =1st row:= cast off 2 sts. knit to end of row. repeat 1st. row twice. =4th row:= cast off 2 sts. purl to end of row. =5th row:= cast off 2 sts. knit to end of row. repeat 4th and 5th rows 6 times, then 4th row once. =next row:= k1. (k2tog.) 14 times. cast off purl ways. to make up: press all pieces carefully. sew all seams. sew in sleeves. sew the 5 cast-on sts. in position on wrong side of back. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. thread ribbon through eyelets at waist. =(a) girl's panties=--_illustrated on page 29_ materials: =3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool=. 2 ozs. one stitch holder. length of elastic. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= length from waist to crotch at front 7-1/2 ins. 8 ins. 9 ins. front: cast on 65 sts. knit 3 rows garter st. repeat from ** to 10th row as given for dress, (a), see page 28. =next row:= *k1. k2tog. repeat from * to last 2 sts. k2. 44 sts. on needle. knit 3 rows garter st. break wool and leave these sts. on st. holder until other leg band has been worked. work 2nd leg band to correspond but do not break wool. =next row:= k44. cast on 16 sts. knit the 44 sts. from st. holder onto same needle. 104 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k1. p63. turn. =2nd row:= k24. turn. =3rd row:= p28. turn. =4th row:= k32. turn. continue in this manner, that is working 4 sts. more in every row until 4 sts. are left unworked at each end of needle. =next row:= p99. k1. proceed:=1st row:= k44. k2tog. t.b.l. k12. k2tog. k44. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= knit. =4th row:= as 2nd row. =5th row:= k44. k2tog. t.b.l. k10. k2tog. k44. work 3 rows even, also after 9th, 13th, 17th and 21st rows. =9th row:= k44. k2tog. t.b.l. k8. k2tog. k44. =13th row:= k44. k2tog. t.b.l. k6. k2tog. k44. =17th row:= k44. k2tog. t.b.l. k4. k2tog. k44. =21st row:= k44. k2tog. t.b.l. k2. k2tog. k44. =25th row:= k44. k2tog. t.b.l. k2tog. k44. 90 sts. on needle. continue even in stocking st. until work from 16 cast-on sts. in centre of work measures 4-3/4 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--4-3/4 ins._=) (=_2 yrs.--5-1/4 ins._=)= ending with purl row. dec. 1. st. each end of needle on next and every following 8th row to 84 sts. on needle. work 7 rows even. proceed:=1st row:= k2. *p1, k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 7 times. =9th row:= (eyelets). k2. *wl. fwd. k2tog. p1. k1. repeat from * to last 2 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat 1st. row 6 times. cast off in ribbing. back: work exactly as given for front to 84 sts. on needle. work 5 rows even. =to shape back:= =1st row:= k78. turn. =2nd row:= p72. turn. =3rd row:= k66. turn. =4th row:= p60. turn. =5th row:= k54. turn. =6th row:= p48. turn. =7th row:= k42. turn. =8th row:= p36. turn. =9th row:= k30. turn. =10th row:= p24. turn. =11th row:= knit to end of row. =12th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. work ribbing as given for front. cast off in ribbing. to make up: press carefully. sew side and crotch seams. thread elastic through eyelets at waist. =(g) girl's or boy's mitts=--_illustrated on page 8_ materials: =4 ply miss canada fingering=. 1 oz. cascade no. 301. one medium crochet hook. =for needles and tension see page 5.= cast on 32 sts. =1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 17 times. =19th row:= (eyelets) *k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to end of row. =20th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =21st row:= knit. repeat last 2 rows 9 times. proceed:=1st row:= k1. purl to last 2 sts. k2tog. =2nd row:= *k3. k2tog. repeat from * to last st. k1. =3rd and alternate rows:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =4th row:= *k2. k2tog. repeat from * to last st. k1. =6th row:= *k1. k2tog. repeat from * to last st. k1. =8th row:= *k2tog. repeat from * to last st. k1. break wool and thread end through remaining sts. draw up and fasten securely. sew up seam. with double wool crochet a cord. thread through eyelets. make and sew a small pom-pom to each end. make another mitt to correspond. =(b) girl's dress=--_illustrated on opposite page_ materials: =beehive lustre crepe=. 6 ozs. sea crest. three safety pins and one stitch holder. 5 buttons. small quantity of wool for embroidery. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= width all round at underarm 20 ins. 20-1/2 ins. 21 ins. length from top of shoulder 14-1/2 " 15 " 16 " length of sleeve underarm seam 3 " 3 " 3 " front: **cast on 150 sts. knit 9 rows garter st. =next row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 8 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--8-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--9 ins._=)=, ending with purl row. =next row:= *k2tog. k3tog. repeat from * to end of row. 60 sts. on needle. =next row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat this row for 1 inch. with right side of work facing, k7. (inc. 1. st. in next st. k14) 3 times. inc. 1. st. in next st. k7. 64 sts. on needle. =next row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. continue in stocking st. inc. 1. st. each end of needle on 3rd and every following 4th row to 68 sts. on needle. continue even until work from beginning measures 10-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs--11 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--12 ins._=)=, ending with purl row.** =to shape armholes:= cast off 2 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle every alternate row to 60 sts. on needle ending with purl row. work 2 rows even. =to shape yoke:= =1st row:= k1. *k2. p2. repeat from * to last 3 sts. k3. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat 1st. and 2nd rows until armhole measures 2-3/4 ins. from first shaping ending with purl row. =to shape neck:= k3. (p2. k2) 4 times. p2. k1. turn. working on these 22 sts. continue in pattern, dec. 1. st. at neck edge every row to 18 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until armhole measures 4 ins. from first shaping. =to shape shoulder:= keeping continuity of pattern, at armhole edge cast off 9 sts. every alternate row twice. leave next 16 sts. on safely pin and work remaining 22 sts. to correspond to other side. back: work from ** to ** as given for front. 68 sts. on needle. =to shape armholes and make back opening:= =1st row:= cast off 2 sts. knit to end of row. =2nd row:= cast off 2 sts. p30. cast on 4 sts. turn. leave remaining sts. on st. holder. working on these 34 sts. continue in stocking st. dec. 1. st. at armhole edge every alternate row to 32 sts. on needle, ending with purl row. work 2 rows even. =to shape yoke:= =1st row:= k3. (p2. k2) 7 times. k1. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last. st. k1. repeat 1st. and 2nd rows until armhole measures 3-3/4 ins. from first shaping ending with 1st. row. =to shape neck:= k1. p18. leave remaining 13 sts. on safety pin. =next row:= k2tog. (p2. k2) 4 times. k1. 18 sts. on needle. shape shoulder as given for front. join wool at back opening and working on remaining 34 sts. proceed:=1st row:= k5. purl to last st. k1. =2nd row:= k1. k2tog. knit to end of row. repeat 1st. and 2nd rows once, then 1st. row once. =6th row:= (1st. buttonhole). knit to last 3 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. =7th row:= as 1st. row. =8th row:= knit even. =9th row:= as 1st. row. =10th row:= k1. (k2. p2) 6 times. k7. =11th row:= k5. purl to last st. k1. continue in pattern to correspond to other side, working 3 more buttonholes 10 rows apart in garter st. border, and shaping neck and shoulder to correspond. neckband: sew shoulder seams. with right side of work facing, join wool and knit across 13 sts. from safety pin at back of neck, pick up and knit 12 sts. along left side, knit across 16 sts. from safety pin at front, pick up and knit 12 sts. along right side, knit 13 sts. from safety pin at back. 66 sts. on needle. knit 3 rows garter st. =next row:= (5th buttonhole). knit to last 3 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. cast off loosely. sleeves: cast on 32 sts. knit 8 rows garter st. =next row:= k2. *inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to last 2 sts. k2. 60 sts. on needle. =next row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. continue even in stocking st. until sleeve measures 3 ins. from beginning ending with purl row. cast off 2 sts. beginning every row to 24 sts. on needle. =next row:= (k2tog.) 12 times. cast off purl ways. to make up: press all pieces carefully. sew all seams. sew in sleeves. sew the 4 cast-on sts. in position on wrong side of back. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. embroider daisies in lazy daisy st. at base of every alternate smooth stripe of yoke as illustrated on dress. =(a) girl's dress=--_illustrated on opposite page_ materials: =3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool=. 4 ozs. two stitch holders. 4 buttons. 1-1/2 yds. ribbon. =for needles and tension, see page 5.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= width all round at underarm 20 ins. 20-1/2 ins. 21 ins. length from top of shoulder 14-1/2 " 15 " 16 " length of sleeve underarm seam 2-3/4 " 2-3/4 " 3 " ***front: cast on 177 sts. knit 9 rows garter st. proceed:=1st row:= k1. *k4. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. repeat from * to last st. k1. =2nd row:= k1. p2. *p2tog. p3. w.r.n. p2. repeat from * to last 6 sts. p2tog. p3. w.o.n. k1. =3rd row:= k2. *wl. fwd. k2. k2tog. k3. repeat from * to end of row. =4th row:= k1. p2. *p2tog. p1 w.r.n. p4. repeat from * to last 6 sts. p2tog. p1 w.r.n. p2. k1. =5th row:= k4. k2tog. *wl. fwd. k5. k2tog. repeat from * to last 3 sts. wl. fwd. k3. =6th row:= k1. p2. w.r.n. p1 *p2tog. p4. w.r.n. p1. repeat from * to last 5 sts. p2tog. p2. k1. =7th row:= k2. *k2tog. k2. wl. fwd. k3. repeat from * to end of row. =8th row:= k1. *p2. w.r.n. p3. p2tog. repeat from * to last st. k1. =9th row:= *k2tog. k4. wl. fwd. k1. repeat from * to last 2 sts. k2. =10th row:= k1. p2. *p5. w.r.n. p2tog. repeat from * to last 6 sts. p5. k1. repeat from 1st. to 4th row once. knit 5 rows garter st. =20th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =21st row:= knit. repeat 20th and 21st rows 6 times. knit 3 rows garter st.** repeat from ** to ** once, from ** to 21st row once, the 20th and 21st rows twice, then the 20th row once. work from beginning now measures 8 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs--8-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--9 ins._=)=. proceed:=1st row:= *k2tog. k3tog. repeat from * to last 2 sts. k2tog. knit 3 rows garter st. =5th row:= (eyelets). *k2. k2tog. wl. fwd. k1. repeat from * to last st. k1. knit 3 rows garter st. =9th row:= k7. *inc. 1. st. in next st. k7. repeat from * to end of row. 79 sts. on needle. =10th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =11th row:= knit. repeat 10th and 11th rows twice. knit 3 rows garter st. repeat from ** to 10th row once, then from ** to 4th row once.*** knit 2 rows garter st. =to shape armholes:= =1st and 2nd rows:= cast off 3 sts. knit to end of row. =3rd row:= k1. k2tog. knit to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. =4th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat 3rd and 4th rows twice, then 3rd row once. knit 3 rows garter st. repeat from ** to 10th row once, then from ** to 4th row once. knit 2 rows garter st. =to shape neck:= k20. k2tog. k1. turn. working on these 22 sts. proceed:=1st row:= knit. =2nd row:= knit to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. =3rd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows 3 times. continue even in stocking st. until armhole measures 4 ins. from first shaping. =to shape shoulder:= at armhole edge cast off 9 sts. every alternate row twice. slip next. 19 sts. on st. holder. join wool and work remaining 23 sts. to correspond to other side. back: work from *** to *** as given for front. 79 sts. on needle. proceed:=to make back opening:= k42. turn. leave remaining sts. on st. holder. knit to end of row. =to shape armhole.= =1st row:= cast off 3 sts. knit to end of row. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= k1. k2tog. knit to end of row. =4th. row:= k6. purl to last st. k1. repeat 3rd and 4th rows once. =7th row:= (1st buttonhole). k1. k2tog. knit to last 3 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. =8th row:= as 4th row. knit 4 rows garter st. keeping a border of 6 sts. in garter st. at back opening, and working buttonholes 12 rows apart, work remaining sts. in pattern as follows:repeat from ** as given for front to 10th row once, then from ** to 4th row once. knit 4 rows garter st. still working buttonholes in garter st. border at back opening, continue even in stocking st. until armhole measures 3-1/4 ins. from first shaping ending at neck edge. =to shape neck:= at neck edge cast off 18 sts. purl to last st. k1. continue even in stocking st. until armhole measures 4 ins. from first shaping. shape shoulder as given for front. cast on 5 sts. knit remaining 37 sts. onto end of same needle. continue to correspond to other side being careful to have all shapings for opposite side and omitting buttonholes. (_continued on page 27_) _early gossip_ from pages 29 to 47 garments can be made for 1, 1-1/2 and two years [illustration: =(a) panties= (_above_) _see page 27._ =(a)=--_see page 28._ =(b)=--_see page 28._ =(b) panties= (_above_)--_see page 27._] [illustration: =boy's crocheted romper= (_above_) _see page 32._ =boy's knitted romper=--_see page 32._] _a romping_ _we will go_ [illustration: =girl's romper= (_above_)--_see page 33._ =girl's dress=--_see page 33._] =boy's crocheted romper=--_illustrated on page 30_ materials: =3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool=. 4 ozs. peach. 11 buttons. one no. 1 steel crochet hook. (american gauge). one dog motif. measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= width all round at underarm 20 ins. 20-1/2 ins. 21 ins. length from top of shoulder to crotch 15 " 15-1/2 " 16-1/2 " length of sleeve underarm seam 3 " 3 " 3 " tension: (1. s.c. ch. 1) 9 times = 2 ins. 8 rows = 1 inch. _the instructions are written for size 1 yr. sizes 1-1/2 and 2 yrs. are written in brackets thus:=( )=._ lower part: (make 2). beginning at crotch ch. 27 sts. =1st row:= 1. s.c. in 3rd ch. from hook. *ch. 1. miss 1. st. 1. s.c. in next st. repeat from * to end of row. ch. 2. turn. =2nd row:= 1. s.c. in 1st. space. *ch. 1. miss next s.c. 1. s.c. in next space. repeat from * to end of row, working last s.c. in space made by turning ch. of previous row. (the turning ch. always counts as 1 space). ch. 2. turn. repeat 2nd row 4 times, turning last row with ch. 7. =7th row:= 1. s.c. in 3rd ch. from hook. (ch. 1. miss 1. ch. 1. s.c. in next ch.) twice. ch. 1. miss 1. s.c. 1. s.c. in next space. work in pattern to end of row, working 1. s.s. in last space. ch. 7. turn. repeat 7th row 9 times, turning last row with ch. 9. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--ch. 13_=)= =(=_2 yrs.--ch. 17_=)= instead of ch. 7. =15th row:= 1. s.c. in 3rd ch. from hook. (ch. 1. miss 1. ch. 1. s.c. in next ch.) 3 times. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--5 times_=)= =(=_2 yrs.--7 times_=)=. ch. 1. miss 1. s.c. 1. s.c. in next space. work in pattern to end of row, working 1. s.s. in last space. ch. 9. turn. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--ch. 13_=)= =(=_2 yrs.--ch. 17_=)=. repeat 15th row once, turning with ch. 2. work 1-1/2 ins. even. =next row:= insert hook in 1st. space, draw up loop. insert hook in 2nd space, draw up loop. w.o.h. draw loop through all 3 loops on hook (this decreases 1 space). work in pattern to last 2 spaces. work a decrease. ch. 2. turn. continue in pattern decreasing 1 space each end of work every 1-1/2 ins. 3 times. continue even in pattern until work from crotch measures 8 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--8-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--9 ins._=)=. fasten off. waistband: (all in 1 piece). ch. 13 sts. =1st row:= 1. s.c. in 2nd ch. from hook. 1. s.c. in each st. to end of ch. ch. 2. turn. =2nd row:= 1. s.c. in each s.c., working into back of sts. only. ch. 1. turn. repeat 2nd row for 19 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--19-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--20 ins._=)=. fasten off. top--back: ch. 89 sts. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--93 sts._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--95 sts._=)=. work 1-1/2 ins. even in pattern. =to shape armholes:= =1st and 2nd rows:= work in pattern to last 3 spaces. ch. 2. turn. =3rd row:= work in pattern, decreasing 1 space each end of row. repeat 3rd row twice. continue even in pattern until armhole measures 3-1/4 ins. from first shaping. =to shape neck:= =1st row:= work in pattern over 10 spaces. ch. 2. turn. =2nd row:= dec. 1. space at neck edge. work in pattern to end of row. ch. 2. turn. work 4 rows even in pattern. fasten off. join wool 10 spaces in from armhole edge and work other shoulder to correspond. front: work exactly as given for back until armhole measures 2-3/4 ins. from first shaping. =to shape neck:= work in pattern over 13 spaces. ch. 2. turn. continue in pattern dec. 1. space at neck edge on next then every following row 3 times. continue even until armhole measures 4 ins. from first shaping. fasten off. join wool 13 spaces in from armhole edge and work other shoulder to correspond. neckband: ch. 7 sts. work in s.c. as given for waistband for length sufficient to go along back of neck. make another piece to go along front of neck. leg bands: ch. 7 sts. work in s.c. as given for waistband for length sufficient to go along each leg opening. sleeves: ch. 7 sts. work 5 ins. in s.c. as given for waistband. do not break wool. ch. 2. working along edge of band work 30 spaces. ch. 2. turn. continue even in pattern until sleeve measures 3 ins. from beginning. =next row:= work in pattern, dec. 1. space each end of work. =next row:= work even in pattern. repeat last 2 rows 9 times. fasten off. to make up: press all pieces except ribbed bands. sew side seams of both lower part and top. sew waistband around the centre, easing in extra fullness. sew sleeve seams. sew in sleeves. sew neckband around each side of neck. sew leg bands around leg openings. work 3 button loops along front of each shoulder and 5 loops along front of crotch. sew buttons to correspond to button loops. sew motif in position as illustrated. =boy's knitted romper=--_illustrated on page 30_ materials: =3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool=. 2 ozs. white (w). 1 oz. blue (b). one medium crochet hook. two stitch holders. 9 buttons. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= width all round at underarm 20 ins. 20-1/2 ins. 21 ins. length from top of shoulder to crotch 15 " 15-1/2 " 16-1/2 " length of sleeve underarm seam 3 " 3 " 3 " beginning at neck with (w) wool cast on 80 sts. =1st row:= inc. 1. st. in 1st. st. k1. inc. 1. st. in next st. (seam sts.). k16. (left sleeve). inc. 1. st. in next st. k1. inc. 1. st. in next st. (seam sts.). k36. (back). inc. 1. st. in next st. k1. inc. 1. st. in next st. (seam sts.). k16. (right sleeve). inc. 1. st. in next st. k1. inc. 1. st. in next st. (seam sts.). 88 sts. on needle. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k1. (left front). inc. 1. st. in next st. k1. inc. 1. st. in next st. (seam). k18. (left sleeve). inc. 1. st. in next st. k1. inc. 1. st. in next st. (seam). k38. (back). inc. 1. st. in next st. k1. inc. 1. st. in next st. (seam). k18. (right sleeve). inc. 1. st. in next st. k1. inc. 1. st. in next st. (seam). k1. (right front). 96 sts. on needle. =4th row:= as 2nd row. continue increasing in this manner, that is, having 1. st. extra every knit row on each front, and 2 sts. extra every knit row on each sleeve and the back, until there are 272 sts. on needle ending with purl row. left front: k26. turn. leave remaining sts. on st. holder. work 9 rows stocking st. break wool. leave these sts. on st. holder. with (b) pick up and knit 40 sts. along edge of left front. proceed:knit 3 rows (b), 6 (w), 8 (b), 8 (w), 5 (b). cast off. left sleeve: with (w), k66 sts. from st. holder. work 2-1/4 ins. even in stocking st. decreasing to 60 sts. in last row. break wool. join (b). with right side of work facing knit 1 row. work 3/4 inch ribbing (k2. p2). cast off in ribbing. back: with (w) k88 sts. from st. holder. work 9 rows stocking st. with right side of work facing proceed:join (b). knit 1 row. ***work 3 rows ribbing (k2. p2). with (w), knit 1 row. rib 3 rows. with (b), knit 1 row. rib 5 rows. with (w), knit 1 row. rib 3 rows. with (b), knit 1 row. rib 3 rows. break (b). with (w) work 1 inch stocking st. continue in stocking st. inc. 1. st. each end of needle next and every following 12th row to 100 sts. on needle. continue even until work from bottom of ribbing measures 6 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--6-1/4 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--6-1/2 ins._=)= ending with purl row. proceed:=to shape leg openings:= cast off 4 sts. beginning every row to 60 sts. on needle, then 3 sts. beginning every row to 36 sts. on needle then 2 sts. beginning every row to 28 sts. on needle. work 10 rows even. cast off. =to make leg bands:= with right side of work facing and (b) wool pick up and knit 48 sts. along edge of leg opening. work 1/2 inch ribbing (k2. p2). cast off in ribbing. work other leg-band to correspond.*** right sleeve: work exactly as given for left sleeve. right front: work exactly as given for left front. proceed:with right side of work facing and (b) wool, k26 sts. of right front, pick up and knit 18 sts. along remainder of front. pick up and knit 18 sts. along corresponding part of left front. k26 sts. of left front. 88 sts. on needle. repeat from *** to *** as given for back. neckband: with right side of work facing and (b) wool pick up and knit 96 sts. around neck edge. work 1/2 inch ribbing (k2. p2). cast off in ribbing. to make up: press carefully. sew side seams. sew centre front opening to within 3 ins. of top. with (b) wool work 1 row s.c. around opening, working 4 loops for buttonholes on left front. with (w) wool work 1 row s.c. along front edge of crotch, working 5 loops for buttonholes. work 1 row d.c. along back edge of crotch. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. sew in sleeves. =girl's dress=--_illustrated on page 31_ materials: =3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool=. 4 ozs. white (w). small quantity pink (p). (approx. 1/2 oz.). 4 or 8 small buttons. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= width all round at underarm 20 ins. 20-1/2 ins. 21 ins. length from top of shoulder 14-1/2 " 15 " 16 " length of sleeve underarm seam 2-1/2 " 2-1/2 " 2-3/4 " front: with (p) cast on 156 sts. knit 7 rows garter st. break wool. join (w) and work 14 rows even in stocking st. ending with purl row. **with (p) knit 4 rows garter st. =5th row:= with (w) knit. =6th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =7th row:= *k11. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to end of row. work 3 rows stocking st. =11th row:= *k5. wl. fwd. k2tog. k6. repeat from * to end of row. work 3 rows stocking st. with (p) knit 2 rows garter st.** with (w) continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 10 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--10-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--11-1/2 ins._=)= ending with knit row. =next row:= k1. (p1. p2tog.) 19 times. (p2tog.) 20 times. (p1. p2tog.) 19 times. k1. 98 sts. on needle. =***to make yoke:= k1. p1. (k1. p2) 15 times. k2. cast on 4 sts. turn. working on these 53 sts. proceed for left shoulder:=1st row:= k5. (p1. k2) 16 times. =2nd row:= k1. p1. (k1. p2) 15 times. k6. repeat 1st. and 2nd rows twice, then 1st. row once. =to shape armhole:= keeping garter st. border at front edge, and keeping continuity of ribbing, at armhole edge cast off 5 sts. once, then dec. 1. st. every row 7 times. 41 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until yoke measures 4 ins. ending at neck edge. =to shape neck:= cast off 14 sts. once, then dec. 1. st. every row to 21 sts. on needle. =to shape shoulder:= at armhole edge cast off 7 sts. every alternate row 3 times. join (w) at centre opening and working on remaining 49 sts. for right shoulder proceed:=1st row:= k4. (k1. p2) 14 times. k1. p1. k1. =2nd row:= (k2. p1) 15 times. k4. repeat 1st. and 2nd rows twice. =7th row:= (buttonhole) k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. (k1. p2) 14 times. k1. p1. k1. working 3 more buttonholes in this manner approx. 1-1/4 ins. apart, shape armhole and continue to correspond to left front, casting off 10 sts. at neck instead of 14 sts.*** back: work exactly as given for front to 98 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k1. p1. k1. *p2. k1. repeat from * to last 2 sts. p1. k1. =2nd row:= *k2. p1. repeat from * to last 2 sts. k2. repeat these 2 rows twice, 1st. row once. =to shape armholes:= cast off 5 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle every row 7 times. 74 sts. on needle. continue even in ribbing until armhole from first shaping measures 3-3/4 ins. =to shape neck and shoulders:= rib 25 sts. cast off 24 sts. rib 25 sts. working on last 25 sts. at armhole edge cast off 7 sts. every alternate row 3 times, at same time dec. 1. st. at neck edge every row 4 times. join wool and work other shoulder to correspond. sleeves: with (p) cast on 60 sts. work 1/2 inch ribbing (k1. p1). =next row:= *k1 inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to last 2 sts. inc. 1. st. in each of next 2 sts. 91 sts. on needle. change to (w) and work 1/2 inch stocking st. ending with purl row. repeat from ** to ** once as given for front. with (w), working in stocking st. cast off 2 sts. beginning every row to 31 sts. cast off. collar: with (p) cast on 123 sts. work 2 rows garter st. =3rd row:= cast off 14 sts. k95. cast off 14 sts. =4th row:= with (w) knit. =5th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat 4th and 5th rows once. =8th row:= k1. *wl. fwd. k2tog. k11. repeat from * to last 3 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. =9th and 11th rows:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =10th row:= k1. *k5. k3tog. k5. repeat from * to last 3 sts. k3. =12th row:= k1. *k6. wl. fwd. k2tog. k3. repeat from * to last 3 sts. k3. work 6 rows stocking st. =next row:= k1. p7. p2tog. *p8. p2tog. repeat from * to last st. k1. cast off. to make up: press carefully. with (p) work 3 rows smocking around lower edge of yoke, by drawing the single knit sts. together every 4th row. with (p) buttonhole around the eyelets in border at hem, sleeves and collar. sew all seams. sew in sleeves. sew the 4 cast-on sts. in position at front. sew the cast-off sts. along each side of collar to form a border. sew collar to neck. sew buttons on flap to correspond to buttonholes. sew 2nd row of buttons if desired as illustrated on romper. =girl's romper=--_illustrated on page 31_ materials: =3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool=. 3 ozs. white (w). small quantity pink (p). (approx. 1/2 oz.). 8 small buttons. 5 medium buttons. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements as given for girl's dress, opposite. front: with (w) cast on 26 sts. knit 2 rows garter st. =3rd row:= (3 buttonholes) k2. cast off 2 sts. (k8. cast off 2 sts.) twice. k2. =4th row:= k2. cast on 2 sts. (k8. cast on 2 sts.) twice. k2. knit 2 rows garter st. continue in stocking st. casting on 6 sts. beginning every row to 122 sts. on needle. continue even until work from beginning measures 10 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--10-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--11-1/2 ins._=)= ending with knit row. =next row:= k1. p2. p2tog. *p3. p2tog. repeat from * to last 2 sts. p1. k1. 98 sts. on needle. work from *** to *** as given for front of girl's dress, opposite. back: with (w) cast on 26 sts. work 2 rows garter st. continue in stocking st. casting on 6 sts. beginning every row to 122 sts. on needle. continue even until work from beginning measures 10 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--10-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--11-1/2 ins._=)= ending with knit row. =next row:= k1. p2. p2tog. *p3. p2tog. repeat from * to last 2 sts. p1. k1. 98 sts. on needle. work from [symbol] to [symbol] as given for back of girl's dress, opposite. sleeves and collar: work exactly as given for girl's dress, opposite. to make up: press carefully. make up top of romper as given for girl's dress, opposite. with right side of work facing, pick up and knit 98 sts. around each leg opening. work 3/4 inch ribbing (k1. p1.). cast off in ribbing. sew medium buttons to correspond to buttonholes at crotch opening, and one either side on leg bands, making a small loop to fasten. =(g) boy's knickers=--_illustrated on page 35_ materials: =4 ply beehive fingering=. 2 ozs. (or =miss canada crochet-knitting wool=. 2 ozs.). length of elastic. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= length of front seam 7-1/2 ins. 8 ins. 9 ins. length of leg seam 3 " 3 " 3 " right leg: cast on 66 sts. =1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 3 times. =5th row:= (eyelets) k2. *wl. fwd. k2tog. p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. work 7 rows ribbing. proceed:=to shape back:= =1st row:= k8. turn. =2nd and alternate rows:= purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k16. turn. =5th row:= k24. turn. =7th row:= k32. turn. =9th row:= k40. turn. =11th row:= k48. turn. =13th row:= k56. turn. work 12 rows stocking st. continue in stocking st. inc. 1. st. at long side of work in next and every following 4th row, at same time inc. 1. st. at short side of work in next and every following 6th row to 83 sts. still increasing at long side of work in every 4th row, inc. 1. st. at short side of work every alternate row to 87 sts. dec. 1. st. each end of needle every alternate row to 69 sts. =next row:= k1. purl to last 3 sts. p2tog. k1. work 6 rows ribbing (k1. p1). cast off. left leg: work as given for right leg, having back shaping on purl rows instead of knit rows and all increasings at end of rows instead of beginning. to make up: press carefully. sew all seams. thread elastic through eyelets at waist. =boy's knickers=--_not illustrated_ _to wear with (l) and (h) illustrated on page 35_ materials: =beehive lustre crepe=. 3 ozs. length of elastic. 1 year--two no. 11 needles. tension: 7-1/2 sts. = 1 inch. 1-1/2 years--two no. 10 needles. tension: 7 sts. = 1 inch. 2 years--two no. 9 needles. tension: 6-1/2 sts. = 1 inch. work as given for boy's knickers, see above. _out and about!_ [illustration: =(a) dress and bonnet=--_see page 36._ =(aa) matching coat= --_see page 37._ =(b) coat=--_see page 37._ =(c) cardigan=--_see page 38._ =(d) dress=--_see page 38._ =(e) coat=--_see page 40._] [illustration: =(f) suit=--_see page 44._ =(g) knickers=--_see page 33._ =(h) pullover=--_see page 43._ =(i) pullover=--_see page 41._ =(j) pullover=--_see page 43._ =(k) pullover=--_see page 45._ =(l) pullover=--_see page 43._ _for knickers to wear with (l) and (h)_ --_see page 33._ _any of these pullovers may be made for girls by changing side for neck fastening when necessary._] (=a=) =girl's dress=--_illustrated on page 34_ materials: =beehive lustre crepe=. 5 ozs. cherry bloom. 3 buttons. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= width all round at underarm 20 ins. 20-1/2 ins. 21 ins. length from top of shoulder 14-1/2 " 15 " 16 " length of sleeve underarm seam 2-1/2 " 2-1/2 " 2-1/2 " pattern: =1st row:= k2. *wl. fwd. k3. k3tog. k3. wl. fwd. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last st. k1. =2nd and alternate rows:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k2. *k1. wl. fwd. k2. k3tog. k2. wl. fwd. k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last st. k1. =5th row:= k2. *k2. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. wl. fwd. k3. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last st. k1. =7th row:= k2. *k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k4. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last st. k1. =8th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. these 8 rows complete one pattern. front: cast on 135 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 7 times. work 10 complete patterns. =next row:= *k2tog. repeat from * to last 3 sts. k3tog. 67 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 4 times. =6th row:= k1. *k6. inc. 1. st. in next st. k6. repeat from * to last st. k1. 72 sts. on needle. continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 10-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--11 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--12 ins._=)= ending with purl row. =to shape armholes:= cast off 4 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle every alternate row 4 times. continue even until armhole measures 2-1/4 ins. from first shaping ending with purl row. =to shape neck:= =1st row:= k9. *k2tog. wl. fwd. repeat from * to last 11 sts. k2tog. k9. =2nd row:= k1. p10. *k1. p1. repeat from * to last 12 sts. k1. p10. k1. =3rd row:= k9. k2tog. wl. fwd. *k1. p1. repeat from * to last 12 sts. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. k9. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows once, then 2nd row once. =7th row:= k9. k2tog. wl. fwd. (k1. p1) twice. k1. cast off 23 sts. in moss st. (k1. p1) twice. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. k9. working on last 16 sts. for shoulder proceed:=1st row:= k1. p10. (k1. p1) twice. k1. =2nd row:= k1. (p1. k1) twice. wl. fwd. k2tog. k9. repeat these 2 rows until armhole measures 4 ins. from first shaping ending with 2nd row. =to shape shoulder:= cast off 8 sts. k1. p2. (k1. p1) twice. k1. =next row:= k1. (p1. k1) twice. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. cast off. join wool at neck edge and working on remaining 16 sts. proceed:=1st row:= k1. (p1. k1) twice. purl to last st. k1. =2nd row:= k9. k2tog. wl. fwd. (k1. p1) twice. k1. repeat these 2 rows until armhole measures 4 ins. from first shaping ending with 1st. row. =to shape shoulder:= cast off 8 sts. k1. k2tog. wl. fwd. (k1. p1) twice. k1. =next row:= k1. (p1. k1) twice. p2. k1. cast off. back: work exactly as given for front to 72 sts. on needle. continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 10-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--11 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--12 ins._=)= ending with purl row. =to make back opening and shape armhole:= =1st row:= k39. turn. leave remaining sts. on spare needle. =2nd and alternate rows:= (k1. p1) twice. k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= cast off 4 sts. knit to last 5 sts. k1. (p1. k1) twice. keeping border of 5 moss sts. at neck edge, dec. 1. st. at armhole edge every alternate row 4 times, at same time when neck opening measures 1-1/4 ins. ending at armhole edge, make 1st. buttonhole as follows:knit to last 5 sts. k1. p1. w.r.n. p2tog. k1. working a 2nd buttonhole 1-1/4 ins. above 1st. continue even until armhole measures 3-1/2 ins. from first shaping ending at armhole edge. proceed:=1st row:= k10. *k2tog. wl. fwd. repeat from * to last 5 sts. k1. (p1. k1) twice. =2nd row:= *k1. p1. repeat from * to last 11 sts. k1. p9. k1. =3rd row:= (3rd buttonhole). k10. k2tog. wl. fwd. *k1. p1. repeat from * to last 5 sts. k1. p1. w.r.n. p2tog. k1. =4th row:= as 2nd row. =to shape shoulder:= cast off 8 sts. k2. k2tog. wl. fwd. *k1. p1. repeat from * to last st. k1. =2nd row:= *k1. p1. repeat from * to last st. k1. cast off. =(a) girl's dress (continued)= cast on 6 sts. knit across 33 sts. from spare needle. 39 sts. on needle. =1st row:= k1. purl to last 5 sts. (k1. p1) twice. k1. =2nd row:= (k1. p1) twice. k1. knit to end of row. keeping moss st. border at neck edge, at armhole edge cast off 4 sts. once. dec. 1. st. every alternate row 4 times. continue even until armhole measures 3-1/2 ins. from first shaping ending at neck edge. proceed:=1st row:= (k1. p1) twice. k1. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 10 sts. k10. =2nd row:= k1. p9. *k1. p1. repeat from * to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to last 12 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. k10. shape shoulder to correspond to other side. sleeves: cast on 37 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 7 times. =9th row:= k1. *k2tog. wl. fwd. repeat from * to last 2 sts. k2. =10th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =11th row:= k1. *inc. 1. st. in next st. k1. repeat from * to end of row. 55 sts. on needle. continue even in stocking st. until sleeve measures 2-1/2 ins. from beginning. cast off 2 sts. beginning every row to 15 sts. on needle. cast off. to make up: press carefully. sew all seams. sew in sleeves. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. (=a=) =girl's poke bonnet=--_illustrated on page 34_ materials: =beehive lustre crepe=. 2 ozs. cherry bloom. one medium crochet hook. 3 yds. ribbon. 3/4 yd. millinery wire. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= width all round at face 13 ins. 13-1/2 ins. 14 ins. crown: cast on 83 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 9 times. =11th row:= (wrong side of work facing). knit. =12th row:= k1. *(p1. k1) twice. inc. 2 sts. in next st. (k1. p1) 3 times. k1. repeat from * 5 times. (p1. k1) twice. inc. 2. sts. in next st. (k1. p1) twice. k1. 97 sts. on needle. continue even in moss st. until work measures 5 ins. from beginning. with right side of work facing proceed:=1st decreasing row:= k1. *p3tog. (k1. p1) 4 times. k3tog. (p1. k1) 5 times. repeat from * to end of row. work 3 rows even in moss st. also after each of the following decreasing rows. =2nd decreasing row:= k1. *p3tog. (k1. p1) 3 times. k3tog. (p1. k1) 4 times. repeat from * to end of row. =3rd decreasing row:= k1. *p3tog. (k1. p1) twice. k3tog. (p1. k1) 3 times. repeat from * to end of row. =4th decreasing row:= k1. *p3tog. k1. p1. k3tog. (p1. k1) twice. repeat from * to end of row. =5th decreasing row:= k1. *p3tog. k3tog. p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. break wool. thread end through remaining sts. draw up and fasten securely. brim: with right side of work and front edge of crown facing pick up and knit 1. st. in each st. of the knit row 11 rows from front edge of crown. 83 sts. on needle. =next row:= (k1. p1) twice. p7. *inc. 1. st. in next st. purl ways. p5. repeat from * to last 6 sts. p2. (p1. k1) twice. 94 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= (k1. p1) twice, w.o.n. k2tog. *wl. fwd. k3. k3tog. k3. wl. fwd. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 4 sts. (p1. k1) twice. =2nd and alternate rows:= (k1. p1) twice. purl to last 4 sts. (p1. k1) twice. =3rd row:= (k1. p1) twice. w.o.n. k2tog. *k1. wl. fwd. k2. k3tog. k2. wl. fwd. k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 4 sts. (p1. k1) twice. =5th row:= (k1. p1) twice. w.o.n. k2tog. *k2. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. wl. fwd. k3. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 4 sts. (p1. k1) twice. =7th row:= (k1. p1) twice. w.o.n. k2tog. *k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k4. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 4 sts. (p1. k1) twice. =8th row:= as 2nd row. =9th row:= *k1. p1. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k1. inc. 1. st. in next st. (p1. k1) twice. work 5 rows moss st. cast off in moss st. to make up: press carefully. sew seam of crown to within 3-1/2 ins. of front edge. placing the millinery wire along the edge of the brim, work 1 row s.c. along edge, working into each st. twice and catching the wire in with each st. turn wire back about 1 inch at each end and oversew along edge of brim. work 1 row s.c. along front edge and neck edge of crown. sew edge of brim along side of crown at each side. make ribbon rosettes and sew to each side as illustrated. =(aa) girl's coat=--_illustrated on page 34_ materials: =beehive lustre crepe=. 6 ozs. cherry bloom. 3 buttons. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= width all round at underarm 21 ins. 21-1/2 ins. 22 ins. length from top of shoulder 14-1/2 " 15 " 16 " length of sleeve underarm seam 7-1/2 " 8-1/2 " 9 " _if leggings are required for this coat you will require 4 ozs. beehive lustre crepe. use no. 11 needles for 1 yr. size, no. 10 needles for 1-1/2 yr. size and no. 9 needles for 2 yr. size. follow the instructions as given for the leggings of the overall suit, see pages 42 and 43._ =the coat is worked in one piece to the armhole.= cast on 255 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 6 times. =8th row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to last 8 sts. p2tog. (p1. k1) 3 times. proceed:**=1st row:= (k1. p1) 3 times. w.o.n. k2tog. *wl. fwd. k3. k3tog. k3. wl. fwd. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 6 sts. (p1. k1) 3 times. =2nd and alternate rows:= (k1. p1) 3 times. purl to last 6 sts. (p1. k1) 3 times. =3rd row:= (k1. p1) 3 times. w.o.n. k2tog. *k1. wl. fwd. k2. k3tog. k2. wl. fwd. k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 6 sts. (p1. k1) 3 times. =5th row:= (k1. p1) 3 times. w.o.n. k2tog. *k2. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. wl. fwd. k3. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 6 sts. (p1. k1) 3 times. =7th row:= (k1. p1) 3 times. w.o.n. k2tog. *k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k4. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 6 sts. (p1. k1) 3 times. =8th row:= (k1. p1) 3 times. purl to last 6 sts. (p1. k1) 3 times.** repeat from ** to ** 9 times. =next row:= (k1. p1) 3 times. w.o.n. (k2tog.) 30 times. turn. 37 sts. on needle for right front. leave remaining sts. on spare needle. right front: =1st row:= *k1. p1. repeat from * to last 7 sts. p1. (p1. k1) 3 times. =2nd row:= (k1. p1) 3 times. w.o.n. k2tog. *k1. p1. repeat from * to last st. k1. =3rd row:= *k1. p1. repeat from * to last 7 sts. p1. (p1. k1) 3 times. =4th row:= (1st. buttonhole). k1. p1. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. p1. w.o.n. k2tog. *k1. p1. repeat from * to last st. k1. repeat 1st. row once. =6th row:= (k1. p1) 3 times. w.o.n. k2tog. *k5. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * 3 times. knit to end of row. 41 sts. on needle. keeping front border and eyelet edge, and remainder of work in stocking st. continue even until work from beginning measures 10-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--11 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--12 ins._=)= ending at armhole edge. =to shape armhole:= still keeping front border and working 2nd buttonhole 2-1/2 ins. above 1st. at armhole edge cast off 4 sts. once, then dec. 1. st. every alternate row to 33 sts. on needle. continue even until armhole measures 3-1/4 ins. from first shaping ending at front edge. =next row:= (3rd buttonhole). k1. p1. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. p1. w.o.n. k2tog. knit to end of row. =next row:= k1. purl to last 6 sts. (p1. k1) 3 times. =to shape neck:= at neck edge cast off 14 sts. knit to end of row. continue dec. 1. st. at neck edge every row to 16 sts. on needle. continue even until armhole measures 4 ins. from first shaping. =to shape shoulder:= at armhole edge cast off 8 sts. every alternate row twice. back: join wool and work across 123 sts. from spare needle, as follows:k5. (k2tog.) 27 times. k5. (k2tog.) 27 times. k5. turn. 69 sts. on needle. leave remaining sts. on spare needle. proceed:=1st row:= k1 *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 4 times. =6th row:= *k7. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * 7 times. knit to end of row. 77 sts. on needle. continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 10-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--11 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--12 ins._=)= ending with purl row. =to shape armholes:= cast off 4 sts. beginning next 2 rows then dec. 1. st. each end of needle every alternate row 4 times. 61 sts. on needle. continue even until armhole measures 4 ins. from first shaping. =to shape shoulders:= cast off 8 sts. beginning next 4 rows. cast off. (_continued on page 40_) =(b) girl's flared coat=--_illustrated on page 34_ materials: =p & b superior double knitting=. 8 ozs. moss green. 4 buttons. =for needles and tension see legging suit page 46.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= width all round at underarm 21 ins. 21-1/2 ins. 22 ins. length from top of shoulder 13-1/2 " 14 " 15 " length of sleeve underarm seam 7-1/2 " 8-1/2 " 9 " back: cast on 92 sts. knit 5 rows garter st. =6th row:= knit. =7th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat 6th and 7th rows 3 times. =1st decreasing row:= (k5. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k9. k2tog. k5) 4 times. work 7 rows stocking st. after this and 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th decreasing rows. =2nd decreasing row:= (k5. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k7. k2tog. k5) 4 times. =3rd decreasing row:= (k5. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k5. k2tog. k5) 4 times. =4th decreasing row:= (k5. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k3. k2tog. k5) 4 times. =5th decreasing row:= (k5. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k1. k2tog. k5) 4 times. =6th decreasing row:= (k5. sl. 1. k2tog. p.s.s.o. k5) 4 times. 44 sts. on needle. continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 8 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--8-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--9 ins._=)= ending with knit row. knit 5 rows garter st. =next row:= knit, increasing to 48 sts. continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 9-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--10 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--11 ins._=)= ending with purl row. =to shape armholes:= cast off 3 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle next and alternate row to 38 sts. on needle. continue even until armhole measures 4 ins. from first shaping, ending with purl row. cast off. right front: cast on 49 sts. knit 5 rows garter st. =6th row:= knit.=7th row:= k1. purl to last 3 sts. k3. repeat 6th and 7th rows 3 times. =1st decreasing row:= k3. (k5. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k9. k2tog. k5) twice. work 7 rows stocking st. after this and 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th decreasing rows. =2nd decreasing row:= k3. (k5. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k7. k2tog. k5) twice. =3rd decreasing row:= k3. (k5. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k5. k2tog. k5) twice. =4th decreasing row:= k3. (k5. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k3. k2tog. k5) twice. =5th decreasing row:= k3. (k5. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k1. k2tog. k5) twice. =6th decreasing row:= k3. (k5. sl. 1. k2tog. p.s.s.o. k5) twice. 25 sts. on needle. continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 8 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--8-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs--9 ins._=)= ending with knit row. =next row:= knit. =next row:= (1st buttonhole). k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. knit to end of row. knit 3 rows garter st. _next row:_ knit, increasing to 27 sts. continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 9-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--10 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--11 ins._=)=, working 2nd buttonhole 10 rows above 1st. in garter st. border. =to shape armhole:= working 2 more buttonholes 10 rows apart, at armhole edge cast off 3 sts. once, then dec. 1. st. every alternate row to 22 sts. on needle. continue even until armhole measures 3 ins. from first shaping. =to shape neck:= at neck edge cast off 8 sts. once, then dec. 1. st. next and every following row to 10 sts. on needle. continue even until armhole measures 4 ins. from first shaping. cast off. left front: keeping the 3 border sts. at the end instead of beginning of row as follows:=1st decreasing row:= (k5. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k9. k2tog. k5) twice. k3. =2nd row:= k3. purl to last st. k1. work to correspond to right front, omitting buttonholes and being careful to have all shapings at opposite side. sleeves: cast on 20 sts. work exactly as given for legging suit, see page 46. collar: cast on 12 sts. work exactly as given for legging suit, see page 46. to make up: press all pieces carefully. sew all seams. sew in sleeves. sew collar to neck, placing ends 2 sts. from each front edge. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. =(c) girl's or boy's cardigan= _illustrated on page 34_ materials: =4 ply miss canada fingering=. 4 ozs. cascade. 10 buttons. small quantity of wool for embroidery. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= width all round at underarm 21 ins. 21-1/2 ins. 22 ins. length from top of shoulder 10 " 10-1/2 " 11 " length of sleeve underarm seam 7-1/2 " 8-1/2 " 9 " =for girl's cardigan the buttonholes are worked in the right front. for boy's cardigan work the buttonholes in the left front.= right front: (for boy's cardigan omit buttonholes. see left front). cast on 32 sts. =1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row once. =3rd row:= (1st. buttonhole) k2. p1. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 9 times, then 3rd row once. continue even in ribbing until work measures 2 ins. from beginning ending at front edge. =next row:= k8. *inc. 1. st. in next st. k5. repeat from * 3 times. 36 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k1. purl to last 8 sts. k8. =2nd row:= knit. repeat 1st. and 2nd rows until 9 rows have been worked above 2nd buttonhole ending at front edge. =next row:= (3rd buttonhole) k4. wl. fwd. k2tog. knit to end of row. keeping garter st. border at front edge and working 7 more buttonholes 9 rows apart, continue even until work from beginning measures 6 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--6-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--7 ins._=)=. =to shape armhole:= still working buttonholes as before, at armhole edge cast off 3 sts. once, then dec. 1. st. every alternate row 4 times. =to make yoke:= still working buttonholes, continue even in garter st. until work from beginning measures 9 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--9-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--10 ins._=)= ending at front edge. =to shape neck:= at neck edge cast off 13 sts. knit to end of row. continue even in garter st. until armhole from first shaping measures 4 ins. =to shape shoulder:= at armhole edge cast off 8 sts. every alternate row twice. left front: (for boy's cardigan the buttonholes are worked in this front). cast on 32 sts. =1st row:= *k1. p1. repeat from * to last 2 sts. k2. repeat 1st. row for 2 ins. =next row:= *k5. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * 3 times. k8. 36 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k8. purl to last st. k1. =2nd row:= knit. continue to correspond to right front, omitting buttonholes and being careful to have all shapings for opposite side. back: cast on 66 sts. =1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row for 2 ins. =next row:= *k5. inc. 1. st. in next st. k5. repeat from * 5 times. 72 sts. on needle. continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 6 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--6-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--7 ins._=)= ending with purl row. =to shape armholes:= cast off 4 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle next and every alternate row 4 times. 56 sts. on needle. continue even in garter st. until armhole from first shaping measures 4 ins. =to shape shoulders:= cast off 8 sts. beginning next 4 rows. cast off remaining sts. sleeves: cast on 36 sts. work 2 ins. ribbing (k1. p1). continue in stocking st. inc. 1. st. each end of needle on 5th and every following 6th row to 52 sts. on needle. continue even until sleeve from beginning measures 7-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--8-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--9 ins._=)= ending with purl row. cast off 2 sts. beginning every row to 16 sts. on needle. cast off. to make up: press carefully. sew all seams. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. embroider flowers as illustrated using lazy daisy st. and french knots. =(d) girl's dress= _illustrated on page 34_ materials: =miss canada crochet-knitting wool=. 5 ozs. lt. wisteria. 4 stitch holders. one medium crochet hook. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= width all round at underarm 20 ins. 20-1/2 ins. 21 ins. length from top of shoulder 14-1/2 " 15 " 16 " length of sleeve underarm seam 3-1/2 " 3-1/2 " 3-1/2 " front: cast on 156 sts. =1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 5 times. work 4 rows even in stocking st. =1st decreasing row:= k20. k2tog. t.b.l. k35. k2tog. k38. k2tog. t.b.l. k35. k2tog. k20. work 3 rows even. =2nd decreasing row:= k20. k2tog. t.b.l. k33. k2tog. k38. k2tog. t.b.l. k33. k2tog. k20. work 3 rows even. =3rd decreasing row:= k20. k2tog. t.b.l. k31. k2tog. k38. k2tog. t.b.l. k31. k2tog. k20. =next 3 rows:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =4th decreasing row:= k20. k2tog. t.b.l. k29. k2tog. k38. k2tog. t.b.l. k29. k2tog. k20. work 3 rows even in stocking st. =5th decreasing row:= k20. k2tog. t.b.l. k27. k2tog. k38. k2tog. t.b.l. k27. k2tog. k20. =next 3 rows:= k1. purl to last st. k1. working in stocking st. continue decreasing in this manner, every 4th row, having 2 less sts. between sts. knit tog. to 84 sts. on needle. (18 decreasings). continue even until work from beginning measures 8-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--9 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--10 ins._=)= ending with purl row. =next row:= *k2. k2tog. k3. repeat from * to end of row. 72 sts. on needle. work 1 inch even in ribbing (k1. p1). with right side of work facing proceed:=next row:= k2. (k8. inc. 1. st. in next st. k8) 4 times. k2. 76 sts. on needle. continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 10-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--11 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--12 ins._=)=. =to shape armholes:= cast off 4 sts. beginning next 2 rows. =3rd row:= k1. k2tog. knit to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. =4th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =5th row:= k1. k2tog. k19. turn. =6th and alternate rows:= purl to last st. k1. =7th row:= k1. k2tog. k16. turn. =9th row:= k16. turn. =11th row:= k15. turn. =13th row:= k14. turn. continue in this manner, that is knitting 1. st. less every alternate row ending with k2. turn. =next row:= p1. k1. break wool and slip first 42 sts. onto first st. holder. join wool at neck edge and working on remaining 22 sts. proceed:=1st row:= k19. k2tog. k1. =2nd row:= k1. p18. turn. =3rd row:= k16. k2tog. k1. =4th row:= k1. p15. turn. =5th and alternate rows:= knit. =6th row:= k1. p14. turn. =8th row:= k1. p13. turn. continue in this manner ending with k1. p1. turn. =next row:= k2. break wool and slip these 20 sts. onto 2nd st. holder. back: cast on 156 sts. work exactly as given for front until work from beginning measures 10-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--11 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--12 ins._=)=. 76 sts. on needle. =to shape armholes:= cast off 4 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle every alternate row 3 times. 62 sts. on needle. work 5 rows even in stocking st. proceed:=1st row:= k20. turn. =2nd and alternate rows:= purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k18. turn. =5th row:= k16. turn. =7th row:= k14. turn. =9th row:= k12. turn. continue in this manner ending with k2. turn. =next row:= p1. k1. break wool and slip first 42 sts. onto 3rd st. holder. join wool at neck edge and working on remaining 20 sts. proceed:=1st and alternate rows:= knit. =2nd row:= k1. p17. turn. =4th row:= k1. p15. turn. =6th row:= k1. p13. turn. continue in this manner ending with k1. p1. =next row:= k2. break wool and slip these 20 sts. onto 4th st. holder. yoke: with right side of work facing, join wool and starting with 42 sts. of first st. holder proceed:*k1. pick up and knit loop at base of next st. (this is an increase and will be termed "knit below" throughout). repeat from * 13 times. (k2. knit below) twice. (k1. p1) 12 times. working on 20 sts. of 2nd st. holder proceed:k1. p1. (knit below. k2) twice. (knit below. k1) 13 times. k1. working on 42 sts. of 3rd st. holder proceed:(k1. knit below) 6 times. (k2. knit below) 6 times. (p1. k1) 12 times. working on 20 sts. of 4th st. holder proceed:p1. k1. (knit below. k2) 6 times. (knit below. k1) 5 times. k1. 178 sts. on needle. proceed:(_continued on page 40_) _playing in the sun.._ [illustration: sun suit] =sun suit= materials: =3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool.= 2 ozs. sky blue. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= length from top to crotch at front 12-1/2 ins. 13 ins. 14 ins. front: beginning at lower edge cast on 18 sts. =to shape legs:= work in stocking st. casting on 5 sts. beginning every row to 98 sts. on needle. continue in stocking st. dec. 1. st. each end of needle every 12th row to 80 sts. on needle. continue even until work from beginning (at centre) measures 7-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--8 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--8-1/2 ins._=)=. work 1 inch even in ribbing (k1. p1). proceed:with right side of work facing cast off 16 sts. loosely in ribbing. rib to end of row. =next row:= cast off 10 sts. loosely in ribbing. rib 54. =to make bib:= rib 8 sts. knit to last 8 sts. rib 8 sts. =2nd row:= rib 8 sts. purl to last 8 sts. rib 8 sts. keeping ribbed border of 8 sts. each end, and centre sts. in stocking st. dec. 1. st. each end of needle (inside borders) next and every following 6th row to 40 sts. on needle ending with purl row. work 3/4 inch ribbing (k1. p1). =next row:= rib 8 sts. cast off 24 sts. loosely in ribbing. rib 8 sts. =to make shoulder straps:= working on last 8 sts. rib 10 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--10-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--11 ins._=)=. cast off. join wool to remaining 8 sts. and work another strap to correspond. back: work exactly as given for front to 86 sts. on needle. continue even until work from beginning (at centre) measures 7-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs--8 ins._=) (=_2 yrs.--8-1/2 ins._=)= ending with knit row. =to shape back:= =1st row:= k1. p49. turn. =2nd row:= k14. turn. =3rd row:= p20. turn. =4th row:= k26. turn. =5th row:= p32. turn. =6th row:= k38. turn. continue in this manner, working over 6 more sts. every row until all sts. have been worked. work 1 inch even in ribbing (k1. p1). cast off loosely in ribbing. leg bands: sew together the cast-on edges of crotch. with right side of work facing pick up and knit 84 sts. around leg opening. work 3/4 inch ribbing (k1. p1). cast off loosely in ribbing. work the other leg to correspond. to make up: press carefully. sew side seams. cross straps at back and sew to top of ribbing 2 inches from side seams. =(e) girl's coat=--_illustrated on page 34_ materials: =4 ply beehive fingering=. 5 ozs. rose mist no. 1312. 4 buttons. small quantity of wool for embroidery. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= width all round at underarm 21 ins. 21-1/2 ins. 22 ins. length from top of shoulder 14-1/2 " 15 " 16 " length of sleeve underarm seam 7-1/2 " 8-1/2 " 9 " right front: cast on 57 sts. knit 13 rows garter st. =14th row:= knit. =15th row:= k6. *p1. k8. repeat from * to last 15 sts. p1. k14. repeat 14th and 15th rows 4 times. =24th row:= knit. =25th row:= k1. purl to last 6 sts. k6. keeping front border of 6 garter sts. work 1/2 inch even in stocking st. ending with purl row. =1st decreasing row:= k15. k2tog. t.b.l. k27. k2tog. k11. keeping garter st. border, work 7 rows even in stocking st. also after each of the following decreasings. =2nd decreasing row:= k15. k2tog. t.b.l. k25. k2tog. k11. =3rd decreasing row:= k15. k2tog. t.b.l. k23. k2tog. k11. continue decreasing in this manner, every 8th row, having 2 sts. less between sts. knit tog. to 43 sts. on needle. continue even until work from beginning measures 8 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--8-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--9 ins._=)= ending at front edge. =next row:= (buttonhole) k2. cast off 2 sts. knit to end of row. =next row:= k1. purl to last 6 sts. k2. cast on 2 sts. k2. working 3 more buttonholes 14 rows apart, continue even until work from beginning measures 10-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--11 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--12 ins._=)= ending at side edge. =to shape armhole:= cast off 4 sts. once, then dec. 1. st. every alternate row 4 times. 35 sts. on needle. still working buttonholes, continue even until work from beginning measures 14 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--14-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--15 ins._=)=. =to shape neck:= at neck edge cast off 12 sts. once, then dec. 1. st. every row to 18 sts. on needle. =to shape shoulder:= at armhole edge cast off 9 sts. every alternate row twice. left front: cast on 57 sts. knit 13 rows garter st. =14th row:= knit. =15th row:= k14. *p1. k8. repeat from * to last 7 sts. p1. k6. repeat 14th and 15th rows 4 times. =24th row:= knit. =25th row:= k6. purl to last st. k1. keeping front border of 6 garter sts. work 1/2 inch even in stocking st. ending with purl row. =1st decreasing row:= k11. k2tog. t.b.l. k27. k2tog. k15. work 7 rows even in stocking st. also after each of the following decreasings. =2nd decreasing row:= k11. k2tog. t.b.l. k25. k2tog. k15. =3rd decreasing row:= k11. k2tog. t.b.l. k23. k2tog. k15. continue decreasing in this manner, every 8th row, having 2 sts. less between sts. knit tog. to 43 sts. on needle. omitting buttonholes work to correspond to right front, being careful to have all shapings for opposite side. back: cast on 108 sts. knit 13 rows garter st. =14th row:= knit. =15th row:= k4. *p1. k8. repeat from * to last 5 sts. p1. k4. repeat 14th and 15th rows 4 times. =24th row:= knit. =25th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. work 1/2 inch stocking st. ending with purl row. =1st decreasing row:= k12. k2tog. t.b.l. k27. k2tog. k22. k2tog. t.b.l. k27. k2tog. k12. work 7 rows even in stocking st. also after each of the following decreasings. =2nd decreasing row:= k12. k2tog. t.b.l. k25. k2tog. k22. k2tog. t.b.l. k25. k2tog. k12. keeping centre panel of 22 sts. continue decreasing in this manner, every 8th row, having 2 sts. less between sts. knit tog. to 80 sts. on needle. continue even until work from beginning measures 10-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--11 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--12 ins._=)= ending with purl row. =to shape armholes:= cast off 4 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle every alternate row 4 times. 64 sts. on needle. continue even until armhole from first shaping measures 4 ins. =to shape shoulders:= cast off 9 sts. beginning next 4 rows. cast off remaining sts. sleeves: cast on 38 sts. knit 9 rows garter st. =10th row:= knit. =11th row:= k5. *p1, k8. repeat from * to last 6 sts. p1. k5. repeat 10th and 11th rows 3 times. =18th row:= knit. =19th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. continue in stocking st. inc. 1. st. each end of needle every 6th row to 54 sts. on needle. continue even until sleeve from beginning measures 7-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--8-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--9 ins._=)=. cast off 2 sts. beginning every row to 18 sts. cast off. collar: cast on 20 sts. knit 9-1/2 ins. garter st. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--10 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--10-1/2 ins._=)=. cast off. to make up: press carefully. sew all seams. sew collar to neck, placing ends 2 sts. in from each front edge. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. embroider a daisy with leaves at the top of each straight st. in border at bottom of coat and sleeves, using lazy daisy st. and french knots. =(aa) girl's coat= (_continued from page 37_) left front: join wool and work remaining sts. as follows:(k2tog.) 28 times. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. (p1. k1) 3 times. 37 sts. on needle. =2nd row:= (k1. p1) 3 times. p1. (p1. k1) to end of row. =3rd row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to last 8 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. (p1. k1) 3 times. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows once, then 2nd row once. =7th row:= k5. *inc. 1. st. in next st. k5. repeat from * 3 times. wl. fwd. k2tog. (p1. k1) 3 times. =8th and alternate rows:= (k1. p1) 3 times. purl to last st. k1. =9th row:= knit to last 8 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. (p1. k1) 3 times. continue even until work from beginning measures 10-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--11 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--12 ins._=)=. omitting buttonholes, shape armhole and continue to correspond to right front. sleeves: cast on 37 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 6 times. =8th row:= k1. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to end of row. =9th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =10th row:= k1. *k2. inc. 1. st. in next st. k1. repeat from * 8 times. 46 sts. on needle. continue in stocking st. inc. 1. st. each end of needle every 8th row to 52 sts. on needle. continue even until sleeve from beginning measures 7-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--8-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--9 ins_.=)= ending with purl row. =to shape cap:= *cast off 2 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then 1. st. beginning following 2 rows.* repeat from * to * to 16 sts. on needle. cast off. collar: cast on 63 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 6 times. =8th row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to last 8 sts. p2tog. (p1. k1) 3 times. repeat from ** to ** as given for coat once. proceed:=1st row:= (k1. p1) 3 times. w.o.n. k2tog. knit to last 8 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. (p1. k1) 3 times. =2nd row:= (k1. p1) 3 times. purl to last 6 sts. (p1. k1) 3 times. repeat 1st. and 2nd rows 3 times. cast off. to make up: press carefully. sew side and shoulder seams of yoke. sew sleeve seams and sew in armholes. sew collar to neck placing the edges 2 sts. from each front edge. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. =(d) girl's dress= (_continued from page 38_) =1st row:= *k1. p1. repeat from * to last 2 sts. k2. repeat this row 6 times. =8th row:= k2tog. (k1. p1) twice. *(k1. p1) twice. k3tog. p1. repeat from * to last 12 sts. (k1. p1) 5 times. k2tog. 136 sts. on needle. =9th row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 9th row 6 times. =16th row:= k2. (p1. k1) 5 times. *p1. k3tog. (p1. k1) 4 times. repeat from * to last 4 sts. (p1. k1) twice. 116 sts. on needle. =17th row:= as 9th row. =18th row:= (eyelets) k2. (p1. k1) twice. *wl. fwd. k2tog. (p1. k1) twice. repeat from * to last 8 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. (p1. k1) 3 times. repeat 9th row twice. =21st row:= k1. p2tog. (k1. p1) 24 times. k1. p2tog. p1. k1. p2tog. (p1. k1) 27 times. p1. k2tog. k1. 112 sts. on needle. cast off loosely in ribbing. sleeves: cast on 36 sts. work 1 inch ribbing (k1. p1). proceed: =1st row:= *k2. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to end of row. 48 sts. on needle. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= knit. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows once, 2nd row 3 times. =9th row:= knit. =10th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat 9th and 10th rows twice then 10th row twice more. continue even in stocking st. until sleeve measures 3-1/2 ins. from beginning ending with purl row. cast off 2 sts. beginning every row to 16 sts. cast off. to make up: press carefully. sew all seams. sew in sleeves. with double wool crochet a cord. thread through eyelets at neck of dress. make and sew a pom-pom to each end. =(i) boy's pullover= with short and long sleeves.--_illustrated on page_ 35 materials: =3 ply beehive fingering.= 3 ozs. turquoise no. 511 (t) for short or long sleeves. small quantity of pink no. 2019 (p), yellow no. 2042 (y) and black (b). two stitch holders. one medium crochet hook. 3 buttons. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= width all round at underarm 20 ins. 20-1/2 ins. 21 ins. length from top of shoulder 10-1/2 " 11-1/2 " 13 " length of short sleeve underarm seam 2-1/2 " 2-1/2 " 2-1/2 " length of long sleeve underarm seam 7-1/2 " 8-1/2 " 9 " wind 4 small balls (t). cut 6 strands (t) 1-1/2 yds. long and 6 strands (p) 1 yd. long. wind remaining (p) into 3 balls. cut 6 strands (y) 1/2 yd. long. back: with (t) wool cast on 76 sts. =1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row for 2 ins. inc. 1. st. at end of last row. proceed to work from chart, reading from right to left for knit rows, and from left to right for purl rows, using the balls and strands of wool as indicated on chart, being careful to twist wool when changing colours. when design has been worked break all wools except 1st. ball (t). with (t) continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 6-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs_.--_7-1/2 ins_.=)= =(=_2 yrs_.--_9 ins_.=)= ending with purl row. =to shape armholes:= cast off 4 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle next and every alternate row to 63 sts. on needle. continue even in stocking st. until armhole measures 3-1/2 ins. from first shaping ending with purl row. =to shape neck: 1st row:= k22. turn. working on these 22 sts. dec. 1. st. at neck edge next and every following row to 18 sts. on needle. continue even until armhole measures 4 ins. from first shaping. =to shape shoulder:= at armhole edge cast off 6 sts. every alternate row 3 times. slip next 19 sts. on st. holder. work remaining 22 sts. to correspond to other side. front: work exactly as given for back until armhole measures 2-1/2 ins. from first shaping ending with purl row. =to shape neck: 1st row:= k25. turn. working on these 25 sts. dec. 1. st. at neck edge next and every following row to 18 sts. on needle. continue even in stocking st. until armhole measures 4 ins. from first shaping. shape shoulder as given for back. slip next 13 sts. on st. holder. work remaining 25 sts. to correspond to other side. neckband: sew left shoulder seam. with right side of work facing, and (p) wool, pick up and knit 8 sts. along right side of neck. knit 19 sts. from st. holder at back of neck. pick up and knit 26 sts. along left side of neck. knit 13 sts. from st. holder at front of neck. pick up and knit 18 sts. along other side of neck. 84 sts. on needle. break (p). join (t). =next row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. work 1/2 inch ribbing (k1. p1). cast off in ribbing. short sleeves: cast on 48 sts. work 1/2 inch ribbing (k1. p1). =next row:= *k5. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to end of row. 56 sts. on needle. =next row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. continue even in stocking st. until sleeve measures 2-1/2 ins. from beginning. =to shape cap:= *cast off 2 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then 1. st. beginning following 2 rows.* repeat from * to * to 20 sts. cast off. long sleeves: cast on 40 sts. work 2 ins. ribbing (k1. p1). =next row:= *k9. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to end of row. 44 sts. on needle. =next row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. continue in stocking st. inc. 1. st. each end of needle on 7th and every following 6th row to 56 sts. on needle. continue even until sleeve from beginning measures 7-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs_.--_8-1/2 ins_.=) (=_2 yrs_.--_9 ins_.=)= ending with purl row. shape cap as given for short sleeves. to make up: press all pieces carefully. darn all ends on wrong side. sew all seams except right shoulder. work 1 row d.c. along back of right shoulder and 1 row s.c. along front working 3 chain loops for buttonholes. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. [illustration: bear pullover chart] [illustration: =_time out!_=] =overall suit= (_the leggings may be made with or without feet_). materials: =4 ply beehive fingering=. 8 ozs. green no. 600. =pullover=--4 ozs. =leggings=--4 ozs. 8 buttons. one spare needle with points at both ends. one medium crochet hook. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= =pullover:= width all round at underarm 20 ins. 20-1/2 ins. 21 ins. length from top of shoulder 11 " 11-1/2 " 12 " length of sleeve underarm seam 7-1/2 " 8-1/2 " 9 " =leggings:= length of front seam 8-1/2 " 9 " 9-1/2 " length of leg seam to ankle 10-1/2 " 11 " 11-1/2 " pullover--front: cast on 72 sts. work 1-1/2 ins. ribbing (k1. p1) inc. 4 sts. in last row. 76 sts. on needle. continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 5-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--6 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--6-1/2 ins._=)= ending with purl row. proceed: =1st row:= k24. *slip next 2 sts. onto spare needle and place at back of work. knit next 2 sts. bring the 2 sts. forward and slip them back onto needle. knit these 2 sts. (this will be termed "twist" throughout). k4. repeat from * twice. twist. k24. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= knit. =4th row:= as 2nd row. repeat these 4 rows until work from beginning measures approx. 7 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--7-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--8 ins._=)= ending with 2nd pattern row. =to shape armholes:= keeping continuity of pattern cast off 6 sts. beginning next 2 rows then dec. 1. st. each end of needle every row to 56 sts. on needle, ending with 4th pattern row. =next row:= k2. *k4. twist. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k6. continue even in pattern until work from beginning measures approx. 9-3/4 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--10-1/4 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--10-3/4 ins._=)= ending with purl row. =to shape neck:= work 23 sts. in pattern. cast off 10 sts. work 23 sts. in pattern. working on last 23 sts. keeping continuity of pattern and armhole edge even, at neck edge dec. 1. st. every row to 14 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until armhole measures 4 ins. from first shaping. =to shape shoulder:= at armhole edge cast off 7 sts. every alternate row twice. join wool to remaining sts. at neck edge and work other shoulder to correspond. neckband: with right side of work facing pick up and knit 40 sts. around neck. work 3/4 inch ribbing (k1. p1). cast off loosely in ribbing. back: work exactly as given for front until work from beginning measures 9-3/4 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--10-1/4 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--10-3/4 ins._=)= ending with purl row. work 3/4 inch more in pattern. =to shape neck and shoulder:= work 18 sts. in pattern. cast off 20 sts. work 18 sts. in pattern. working on last 18 sts. keeping continuity of pattern and armhole edge even, at neck edge dec. 1. st. every row to 14 sts. on needle. at armhole edge cast off 7 sts. every alternate row twice. join wool to remaining sts. at neck edge and work other shoulder to correspond. neckband: work as given for front neckband but picking up 36 sts. instead of 40 sts. sleeves: cast on 38 sts. work 1 inch ribbing (k1. p1). continue in stocking st. inc. 1. st. each end of needle on 7th and every following 6th row to 56 sts. on needle. continue even until sleeve from beginning measures 7-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--8-1/2 ins._=) (=_2 yrs.--9 ins._=)= or desired length. cast off 2 sts. beginning every row to 24 sts. cast off. (_leggings without feet_--_see page 43_) =leggings with feet= **right leg: cast on 76 sts. work 1/2 inch ribbing (k1. p1). =next row:= *rib 2. w.r.n. p2tog. repeat from * to end of row. work 1-1/2 ins. ribbing (k1. p1). working in stocking st. proceed:=to shape back:= =1st row:= k8. turn. =2nd and alternate rows:= purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k16. turn. =5th row:= k24. turn. continue in this manner, working over 8 extra sts. every knit row until 28 sts. remain, ending with purl row. =next row:= knit across all sts. =next row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. continue in stocking st. inc. 1. st. at long side of work every following 6th row to 86 sts. on needle. continue even until work from beginning, at short edge, measures 8-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--9 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--9-1/2 ins._=)= ending with purl row. =to shape leg:= dec. 1. st. each end of needle every knit row to 54 sts. on needle, then 1. st. each end of needle every following 4th row to 42 sts. on needle. continue even until leg seam from beginning measures 10 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--10-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--11 ins._=)= ending with purl row.** =to shape foot:= =1st row:= (eyelets) k1. *k2. k2tog. wl. fwd. repeat from * to last st. k1. =2nd row:= k19. turn. =3rd row:= k12. turn. working on these 12 sts. knit 29 rows garter st. =next row:= k12. pick up and knit 16 sts. along side of instep. knit across the 23 sts. which were left. =next row:= k51. pick up and knit 16 sts. along other side of instep. knit across remaining 7 sts. 74 sts. on needle. knit 12 rows garter st. proceed:=1st row:= k22. k2tog. k10. k2tog. k27. (k2tog.) twice. k7. =2nd row:= k6. (k2tog.) twice. k25. k2tog. k10. k2tog. k21. =3rd row:= k21. k2tog. k8. k2tog. k24. (k2tog.) twice. k5. =4th row:= k4. (k2tog.) twice. k22. k2tog. k8. k2tog. k20. cast off. left leg: work to correspond to right leg, having back shaping on purl rows instead of knit rows. to reverse foot shapings after eyelet row at ankle has been worked, knit 1 row then continue exactly as given for right leg, beginning with 2nd row. =overall suit= (_continued_) =leggings without feet= right leg: work from ** to ** as given for leggings with feet. 42 sts. on needle. proceed:=to shape foot: 1st row:= knit. =2nd row:= k8. p13. k21. repeat 1st. and 2nd rows once, then 1st. row once. =6th row:= cast off 6 sts. k2. p13. k21. =7th row:= cast off 19 sts. k17. =8th row:= k2. p13. k2. =9th row:= knit. repeat 8th and 9th rows twice, then 8th row once. =to shape toe: 1st row:= k2. k2tog. t.b.l. k9. k2tog. k2. =2nd and alternate rows:= k2. purl to last 2 sts. k2. =3rd row:= k2. k2tog. t.b.l. k7. k2tog. k2. =5th row:= k2. k2tog. t.b.l. k5. k2tog. k2. =7th row:= k2. k2tog. k3. k2tog. k2. =8th and 10th rows:= knit. =9th row:= k2. k2tog. k1. k2tog. k2. cast off. left leg: work to correspond to right leg, having back shaping on purl rows instead of knit rows, and being careful to have shaping for foot at opposite side. to make up: press all pieces carefully. sew all seams. crochet 4 loops for buttonholes on each shoulder of pullover. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. with double wool crochet a cord for waist of leggings and ankles of leggings with feet. thread through eyelets. make and sew tassels to each end. sew a small piece of elastic to each instep of leggings without feet. =(j) boy's pullover=--_illustrated on page 35_ materials: =miss canada crochet-knitting wool.= 4 ozs. violet no. 1. 4 buttons. one medium crochet hook. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= width all round at underarm 20 ins. 20-1/2 ins. 21 ins. length from top of shoulder 12 " 12-1/2 " 13 " length of sleeve underarm seam 7-1/2 " 8-1/2 " 9 " pattern: =1st row:= (wrong side of work) knit. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= knit. =4th row:= k1. p2. *(k1. p1. k1) all in next st. p5. repeat from * to last 3 sts. (k1. p1. k1) all in next st. p1. k1. =5th row:= k2. *bring wool to front of work as if to purl. sl. 1. purl ways. put wool to back of work. k1. bring wool to front of work. sl. 1. purl ways. put wool to back of work. (the working of these 3 sts. will be termed "pattern" throughout). k5. repeat from * to last 6 sts. pattern. k3. =6th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1, slipping the slipped sts. purl ways, and passing the wool behind these slipped sts. =7th row:= as 5th row. =8th row:= k1. p1. *k2tog. p1. sl. 1. knitways. k1. p.s.s.o. p3. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k2tog. p1. sl. 1. knitways. k1. p.s.s.o. k1. repeat 1st. and 2nd rows once, then 1st. row once. =12th row:= k1. p5. *(k1. p1. k1) all in next st. p5. repeat from * to end of row. =13th row:= *k5. pattern. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k6. =14th row:= as 6th row. =15th row:= as 13th row. =16th row:= k1. p4. *k2tog. p1. sl. 1. knitways. k1. p.s.s.o. p3. repeat from * to last st. k1. these 16 rows complete one pattern. front: cast on 72 sts. work 1-1/2 ins. ribbing (k1. p1). work 5 complete patterns. work now measures approx. 8-1/4 ins. from beginning. (_1-1/2 yrs.--8-1/2 ins._) (_2 yrs.--9 ins._). =to shape armholes:= keeping continuity of pattern cast off 4 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle every alternate row 4 times. 56 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until there are 2 complete patterns from first armhole shaping. proceed:=1st row:= knit. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat these 2 rows until armhole measures 4 ins. from first shaping. cast off. back: work exactly as given for front. sleeves: cast on 36 sts. work 2-1/4 ins. ribbing (k1. p1), inc. 12 sts. in last row. 48 sts. on needle. work 4 complete patterns. keeping continuity of pattern cast off 2 sts. beginning every row to 16 sts. cast off. to make up: press all pieces carefully. sew all seams except shoulders. work 1 row s.c. around neck opening, working 2 loops on front edge at each shoulder for buttonholes. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. =(l) boy's pullover=--_illustrated on page 35_ materials: =beehive lustre crepe.= 3 ozs. cherry bloom. (_1-1/2 yrs.--4 ozs._) (_2 yrs.--4 ozs._). one medium crochet hook. 4 buttons. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= width all round at underarm 20 ins. 20-1/2 ins. 21 ins. length from top of shoulder 12 " 12-1/2 " 13 " length of sleeve underarm seam 7-1/2 " 8-1/2 " 9 " pattern: =1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 5 times. =7th row:= *k2. sl. 1. repeat from * to last 2 sts. k2. =8th row:= k1. p1. sl. 1. *p2. sl. 1. repeat from * to last 2 sts. p1. k1. =9th row:= as 7th row. =10th row:= *purl the 3rd st. on the left-hand needle (the slipped st.) passing it over the first 2 sts. purl these 2 sts. repeat from * to last 2 sts. p1. k1. repeat 7th and 8th rows once, then 7th row once. =14th row:= k1. p1. *inserting the needle through the 3rd st. on the left-hand needle (the slipped st.) purl each of the next 2 sts., then purl the slipped st. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 6 times. =these 20 rows complete border for lower edge of pullover, cuffs and boat neck.= front: cast on 74 sts. work 1 complete pattern. continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 8 ins. (_1-1/2 yrs.--8-1/2 ins._) (_2 yrs.--9 ins._). =to shape armholes:= cast off 5 sts. beginning next 2 rows then dec. 1. st. each end of needle every alternate row to 56 sts. on needle. continue even until armhole from first shaping measures 2 ins. work 1 complete pattern. cast off loosely in ribbing. back: work exactly as given for front. sleeves: cast on 38 sts. work 1 complete pattern. continue in stocking st. inc. 1. st. each end of needle on 5th and every following 6th row to 52 sts. on needle. continue even until sleeve from beginning measures 7-1/2 ins. (_1-1/2 yrs.--8-1/2 ins._) (_2 yrs.--9 ins._). cast off 2 sts. beginning every row to 16 sts. cast off. to make up: press all pieces being careful not to flatten the pattern. sew shoulder seams 1 inch from armhole edges. work 1 row s.c. along front edge making 2 loops each side for buttons. sew buttons to correspond. =(h) boy's pullover=--_illustrated on page 35_ materials: =beehive lustre crepe.= 4 ozs. ocean green. 3 buttons. one medium crochet hook. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= width all round at underarm 20 ins. 20-1/2 ins. 21 ins. length from top of shoulder 12 " 12-1/2 " 13 " length of sleeve underarm seam 7-1/2 " 8-1/2 " 9 " front: cast on 76 sts. work 2 ins. ribbing (k2. p2). continue even in stocking st. until work measures 5 ins. from beginning ending with purl row. proceed:=1st row:= knit. =2nd row:= k1. p26. k22. p26. k1. =3rd row:= knit. =4th row:= as 2nd row. **=5th row:= k29. (k2. p2) 4 times. k31. =6th row:= k1. p26. k3. p1. (k2. p2) 3 times. k2. p1. k3. p26. k1. repeat 5th and 6th rows once, then 5th row once. =10th row:= k1. p26. k22. p26. k1. =11th row:= knit. =12th row:= as 10th row.** repeat from ** to ** twice. continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 8 ins. (_1-1/2 yrs.--8-1/2 ins._) (_2 yrs.--9 ins._) ending with purl row. =to shape armholes:= cast off 5 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle every row 3 times, ending with knit row. 60 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k1. p3. k22. p8. k22. p3. k1. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= as 1st. row. **=4th row:= k6. (k2. p2) 4 times. k14. (k2. p2) 4 times. k8. =5th row:= k1. p3. *k3. p1. (k2. p2) 3 times. k2. p1. k3.* p8. repeat from * to * once. p3. k1. repeat 4th and 5th rows once, then 4th row once. =9th row:= k1. p3. k22. p8. k22. p3. k1. =10th row:= knit. =11th row:= as 9th row.** repeat from ** to ** twice. work 4 rows stocking st. _(continued on page 45)_ =(f) boy's suspender suit=--_illustrated on page 35_ materials: =3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool.= 4 ozs. sky blue. (=pullover=--2 ozs. =knickers=--2 ozs.). one medium crochet hook. 3 small and 2 larger buttons. two stitch holders. 1 yd. ribbon 1-1/4 ins. wide. measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= =pullover:= width all round at underarm 20 ins. 20-1/2 ins. 21 ins. length from top of shoulder 10-1/2 " 11 " 11-1/2 " length of sleeve underarm seam 2-1/2 " 2-1/2 " 2-1/2 " =knickers:= length from waist to crotch at front 9-1/4 " 9-3/4 " 10-3/4 " =for needles and tension see page 5.= the pullover back: cast on 88 sts. =1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row for 2 ins. continue even in stocking st. until work from beginning measures 6-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--7 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--7-1/2 ins._=)=, ending with purl row. =to shape armholes:= cast off 4 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle next and every alternate row to 68 sts. on needle. continue even in stocking st. until armhole measures 8-1/2 ins. from first shaping ending with purl row. =to shape neck:= k24. turn. working on these 24 sts. dec. 1. st. at neck edge next and every following row to 20 sts. on needle. =to shape shoulder:= at armhole edge cast off 5 sts. every alternate row 4 times. slip next 20 sts. on st. holder. work remaining 24 sts. to correspond to other side. front: work exactly as given for back until armhole measures 2-1/2 ins. from first shaping ending with purl row. =to shape neck:= k27. turn. working on these 27 sts. dec. 1. st. at neck edge next and every following row to 20 sts. on needle. continue even in stocking st. until armhole measures 4 ins. from first shaping. =to shape shoulder:= at armhole edge cast off 5 sts. every alternate row 4 times. slip next 14 sts. on st. holder. work remaining 27 sts. to correspond to other side. neckband: sew left shoulder seam. with right side of work facing pick up and knit 13 sts. along right side of neck. knit 20 sts. from st. holder. pick up and knit 36 sts. along left side of neck. knit 14 sts. from st. holder. pick up and knit 22 sts. along other side of neck. 105 sts. on needle. =1st row:= *k2. p3. repeat from * to last 5 sts. k2. p2. k1. =2nd row:= (right side of work) *k3. p2. repeat from * to last 5 sts. k3. p1. k1. cast off in ribbing. sleeves: cast on 55 sts. work 1/2 inch ribbing (k3. p2) as given for neckband. =next row:= *k5. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to last st. k1. 64 sts. on needle. =next row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. continue even in stocking st. until sleeve measures 2-1/2 ins. from beginning. =to shape cap:= *cast off 2 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then 1. st. beginning following 2 rows.* repeat from * to * to 22 sts. on needle. cast off. to make up: sew all seams, except right shoulder. work 1 row d.c. along back of right shoulder and 1 row s.c. along front, working 3 chain loops for buttonholes. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. the knickers front: beginning at bottom of right leg, cast on 43 sts. **=1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat this row for 1/2 inch inc. 1. st. at end of last row.** cast on 24 sts. break wool and leave on st. holder. cast on 43 sts. repeat from ** to ** inc. 1. st. at beginning instead of end of last row. proceed:=1st row:= k1. p1. k42. working across sts. from spare needle, sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k20. k2tog. k42. p1. k1. 110 sts. on needle. =2nd row:= k1. p1. k1. p41. p2tog. p18. p1. transfer this st. back onto left-hand needle, insert needle in 2nd st. and pass it over st. just purled, thus decreasing a stitch. transfer this st. back onto right-hand needle. (make all decreases at this side, on the purl row in this manner). p41. k1. p1. k1. =3rd row:= k1. p1. k42. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k16. k2tog. k42. p1. k1. =4th row:= k1. p1. k1. p41. p2tog. p14. dec. 1. st. as before. p41. k1. p1. k1. keeping a moss st. border at each side, continue decreasing in this manner, having 2 sts. less between decreasing each row, until the decreasings meet. on the next row purl these 2 sts. together, thus forming a point. 89 sts. on needle. keeping a moss st. border of 3 sts. at each end of needle, continue even in stocking st. until work from the 20 cast-on sts. measures 7-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--8 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--9 ins._=)=, ending with purl row, and inc. 1. st. at end of row. proceed:=to make waistband: 1st row:= (k1. p1) 15 times. k1. (k3. p2) 5 times. k3. (k1. p1) 15 times. k1. =2nd row:= (k1. p1) 15 times. k1. (p3. k2) 5 times. p3. (k1. p1) 15 times. k1. repeat these 2 rows for 1-1/4 ins. =next row:= (buttonholes) work 17 sts. in pattern. cast off 3 sts. work in pattern to last 20 sts. cast off 3 sts. work in pattern to end of row. =next row:= work in pattern, casting on sts. in place of cast-off sts. continue in pattern until waistband measures 1-3/4 ins. cast off. back: work exactly as given for front, omitting buttonholes in waistband. suspenders: (make 2). cast on 13 sts. work 14 ins. moss st. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--15 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--16 ins._=)=. cast off. to make up: sew all seams. line shoulder straps with ribbon to prevent stretching. sew straps at back 2-1/4 ins. in from side seams. sew buttons to front ends. [illustration: bb logo] =girl's or boy's mitts=--_illustrated on page 47_ materials: =p & b superior double knitting.= 2 ozs. moss green. one medium crochet hook. =for needles and tension see legging suit page 46.= cast on 28 sts. =1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 11 times. =13th row:= (eyelets) k2. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row once. =15th row:= knit. =16th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =to make thumb:= k17. turn. cast on 1. st. k1. p6. turn. cast on 1. st. work 6 rows stocking st. on these 8 sts. =next row:= (k2tog.) 4 times. break wool. thread end through remaining sts. draw up and fasten securely. sew thumb seam. join wool to first 11 sts. pick up and knit 2 sts. at base of thumb. knit last 11 sts. 24 sts. on needle. work 11 rows stocking st. =to shape top: 1st row:= *k4. k2tog. repeat from * to end of row. =2nd and alternate rows:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= *k3. k2tog. repeat from * to end of row. =5th row:= *k2. k2tog. repeat from * to end of row. =7th row:= *k1. k2tog. repeat from * to end of row. break wool. thread end through remaining sts. draw up and fasten securely. sew up seam. make another mitt to correspond. with single wool crochet a cord for each mitt. thread through eyelets at wrist. make and sew a small tassel to each end. =(k) boy's pullover=--_illustrated on page 35_ materials: =4 ply beehive fingering=. 4 ozs. yellow no. 2042. 3 buttons. one medium crochet hook. one stitch holder. one safety pin. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= width all round at underarm 20 ins. 20-1/2 ins. 21 ins. length from top of shoulder 12 " 12-1/2 " 13 " length of sleeve underarm seam 7-1/2 " 8-1/2 " 9 " pattern: =1st row:= k1. *p1. k2. p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. =2nd row:= k1. *k1. p2. k1. p1. repeat from * to last 5 sts. k1. p2. k2. =3rd row:= k1. *p1. miss next st. knit into back of next st. but do not slip off needle. knit into front of 1st. st. slip both sts. off needle together. p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. =4th row:= as 2nd row. these 4 rows complete one pattern. front: cast on 76 sts. continue even in pattern until work from beginning measures 8 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--8-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--9 ins._=)=. =to shape armholes:= keeping continuity of pattern, cast off 5 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle next and every alternate row to 56 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until armhole measures 3 ins. from first shaping. =to shape neck:= work 21 sts. in pattern. turn. working on these 21 sts. keeping continuity of pattern dec. 1. st. at neck edge every row to 14 sts. on needle. continue even until armhole measures 4 ins. from first shaping. =to shape shoulder:= keeping continuity of pattern, at armhole edge cast off 7 sts. every alternate row twice. leaving next 14 sts. on safety pin, join wool to remaining 21 sts. and work other shoulder to correspond. back: omitting neck shaping, work exactly as given for front until armhole measures 3-1/2 ins. from first shaping. =to shape neck:= work 16 sts. in pattern. turn. working on these 16 sts. dec. 1. st. at neck edge every alternate row twice. continue even in pattern until armhole measures 4 ins. from first shaping. shape shoulder as given for front. leaving next 24 sts. on st. holder, join wool to remaining 16 sts. and work other shoulder to correspond. neckband: sew left shoulder seam. with right side of work facing, pick up and knit 7 sts. along right side of neck, knit 24 sts. from st. holder at back, pick up and knit 17 sts. along left side of neck, knit 14 sts. from safety pin at front and pick up and knit 10 sts. along remainder of neck. 72 sts. on needle. work 3/4 inch ribbing (k1. p1). cast off loosely in ribbing. sleeves: cast on 36 sts. continue in pattern inc. 1. st. each end of needle on 7th and every following 6th row to 56 sts. on needle. continue even until sleeve from beginning measures 7-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--8-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--9 ins._=)=. keeping continuity of pattern, cast off 2 sts. beginning every row to 24 sts. on needle. cast off. to make up: press pieces carefully. sew all seams excepting right shoulder. sew in sleeves. work 1 row s.c. around shoulder opening, working 3 loops for buttonholes on front. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. =(h) boy's pullover= (_continued from page 43_) =to shape neck:= k22. cast off 16 sts. k22. working on last 22 sts. keeping armhole edge even, at neck edge dec. 1. st. every row to 16 sts. on needle. continue even until armhole measures 4 ins. from first shaping. =to shape shoulder:= at armhole edge, cast off 8 sts. beginning every alternate row twice. join wool at neck edge and work other shoulder to correspond. back: work exactly as given for front. sleeves: cast on 36 sts. work 1-1/2 ins. ribbing (k2. p2). continue in stocking st. inc. 1. st. each end of needle on 5th then every following 6th row to 52 sts. on needle. continue even until work from beginning measures 7-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--8-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--9 ins._=)=. cast off 2 sts. beginning every row to 16 sts. cast off. neckband: sew left shoulder seam. pick up and knit 76 sts. around neck. work 3/4 inch ribbing (k2. p2). cast off in ribbing. to make up: press all pieces carefully being careful not to flatten the pattern. sew all seams. sew in sleeves. work 1 row d.c. along shoulder edge at back. work 1 row s.c. along front edge working 3 loops for buttons. sew buttons to correspond. =boy's cap=--_illustrated (left) page 47_ materials: =p & b superior double knitting=. 2 ozs. moss green. one button. one stitch holder. =for needles and tension see legging suit page 46.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= width all round brim 14 ins. 14-1/2 ins. 15 ins. right ear flap: cast on 3 sts. =1st row:= inc. 1. st. in each of the first 2 sts. k1. knit 5 rows garter st. =7th row:= k1. (inc. 1. st. in next st. k1) twice. knit 5 rows garter st. =13th row:= k1. inc. 1. st. in next st. knit to last 3 sts. inc. 1. st. in next st. k2. continue inc. 1. st. each end of needle every following 6th row to 15 sts. on needle. knit 5 rows garter st. break wool and leave these sts. on st. holder until left ear flap has been worked. left ear flap: cast on 3 sts. =1st row:= inc. 1. st. in each of first 2 sts. k1. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= (buttonhole) k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. =4th row:= knit. continue to correspond to right flap to 15 sts. on needle. knit 5 rows garter st. casting on 7 sts. at end of last row. turn. =next row:= knit across these 22 sts. cast on 22 sts. knit across the 15 sts. from st. holder, casting on 7 sts. at end of row. 66 sts. on needle. knit 9 rows garter st. proceed:=1st row:= k6. *inc. 1. st. in next st. k12. repeat from * to last 8 sts. inc. 1. st. in next st. k7. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. 3rd row: knit. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows 8 times. =20th row:= *k5. k2tog. repeat from * to last st. k1. =21st and alternate rows:= knit. =22nd row:= *k4. k2tog. repeat from * to last st. k1. =24th row:= *k3. k2tog. repeat from * to last st. k1. continue decreasing in this manner to 21 sts. on needle. =next row:= (k2tog.) to last st. k1. break wool. run end through remaining sts. draw up and fasten securely. to make up: press carefully. sew back seam. sew button to correspond to buttonhole. [illustration: bb logo] =girl's or boy's helmet=--_illustrated (right) page 47_ materials: =p & b superior double knitting=. 2 ozs. moss green. two safety pins. =for needles and tension see legging suit page 46.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= width around face 12 ins. 12-1/2 ins. 13 ins. cast on 66 sts. =1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 13 times. =15th row:= k2. (p1. k1) 3 times. k50. slip next 8 sts. onto safety pin. turn. =16th row:= k1. p49. slip next 8 sts. onto safely pin. turn. =17th row:= knit. =18th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat last 2 rows 13 times. proceed:=1st row:= k32. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. turn. =2nd row:= p15. sl. 1. p1. p.s.s.o. turn. =3rd row:= k15. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. turn. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows until all sts. have been worked onto one needle. break wool. with right side of work facing, beginning again on the 8 sts. which were left on safety pin, k2. (p1. k1) 3 times. pick up and knit 15 sts. from right side of helmet. knit across the 16 sts. which were left on the needle. pick up and knit 15 sts. along other side of helmet, and (p1. k1) 4 times across remaining 8 sts. 62 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 7 times. cast off. to make up: press carefully. join ribbing together to form a neckband. =girl's or boy's legging suit= with pixie hood. materials: =p & b superior double knitting=. 10 ozs. moss green. two no. 8 beehive knitting needles for sizes 1 and 1-1/2 yrs. for size 2 yrs. two no. 7 needles. 4 buttons. length of elastic. one medium crochet hook. measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= =coat:= width all round at underarm 21 ins. 21-1/2 ins. 22 ins. length from top of shoulder 12 " 12-1/2 " 13 " length of sleeve underarm seam 7-1/2 " 8-1/2 " 9 " =leggings:= length of front seam 8-1/2 " 9 " 9-1/2 " length of leg seam 10 " 11 " 11-1/2 " tension: 5 sts. and 7 rows = 1 inch with no. 8 needles. 4-1/2 sts. and 6 rows = 1 inch with no. 7 needles. =the instructions are written for size 1 yr. for size 1-1/2 yrs. use same size needles and follow same instructions. stretch to required measurements when blocking. for size 2 yrs. use no. 7 needles and follow same instructions.= =girl's coat=--right front: cast on 28 sts. knit 7 rows garter st. =8th row:= k6. *inc. 1. st. in next st. k8. repeat from * once. k4. =9th row:= k1. purl to last 6 sts. k6. =10th row:= knit. repeat 9th and 10th rows 5 times. proceed:**=1st row:= k1. purl to last 11 sts. k11. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= k1. purl to last 12 sts. k12. =4th row:= knit. =5th row:= k1. purl to last 13 sts. k13. =6th row:= (1st. buttonhole) k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. knit to end of row. repeat 3rd and 4th rows once, 1st. row once. =10th row:= knit. =11th row:= k1. purl to last 6 sts. k6. repeat 10th and 11th rows 3 times, 10th row once.** repeat from ** to ** once. =to shape armhole:= keeping continuity of pattern, and working 2 more buttonholes 18 rows apart, at armhole edge cast off 3 sts. once, then dec. 1. st. every alternate row to 22 sts. on needle. continue in pattern until armhole measures 3-1/2 ins. from first shaping. =to shape neck:= at neck edge cast off 8 sts. once, then dec. 1. st next and every following row to 10 sts. on needle. continue even until armhole measures 4 ins. from first shaping. cast off. left front: cast on 28 sts. knit 7 rows garter st. =8th row:= k3. *inc. 1. st. in next st. k8. repeat from * once. k7. =9th row:= k6. purl to last. st. k1. =10th row:= knit. repeat 9th and 10th rows 5 times. proceed:=1st row:= k11. purl to last st. k1. =2nd and alternate rows:= knit. =3rd row:= k12. purl to last st. k1. =5th row:= k13. purl to last st. k1. =6th row:= knit. keeping continuity of border pattern, omitting buttonholes, continue to correspond to right front, being careful to have all shapings for opposite side. back: cast on 48 sts. knit 7 rows garter st. =8th row:= k10. *inc. 1. st. in next st. k8. repeat from * to last 2 sts. k2. =9th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. continue even in stocking st. until work measures same as fronts to armhole, ending with purl row. =to shape armholes:= cast off 3 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle next and every alternate row to 38 sts. on needle. continue even until armhole measures 4 ins. from first shaping, ending with purl row. cast off. sleeves: cast on 20 sts. knit 9 rows garter st. =10th row:= *k1. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to end of row. 30 sts. on needle. =11th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. continue in stocking st. inc. 1. st. each end of needle every following 4th row to 40 sts. on needle. continue even until sleeve from beginning measures 7-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--8-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--9 ins._=)=, ending with purl row. continue in stocking st. casting off 2 sts. beginning every row to 12 sts. cast off. collar: cast on 12 sts. knit 8-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--9 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--9-1/2 ins._=)= garter st. cast off. =boy's coat:= work from instructions given for girl's coat, but working buttonholes on left front instead of right front. =girl's pixie hood= materials: =p & b superior double knitting.= 2 ozs. moss green. =for needles and tension see legging suit next column.= measurements: =1 yr.= =1-1/2 yrs.= =2 yrs.= length from lower edge of scarf to top of head 8-1/4 ins. 8-1/2 ins. 9 ins. width across (when folded) 6 " 6-1/4 " 6-1/2 " the hood: cast on 31 sts. =1st row:= knit. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last 7 sts. k7. repeat these 2 rows 7 times, then 1st. row once. **=18th row:= k1. purl to last 12 sts. k12. =19th row:= knit. =20th row:= k1. purl to last 13 sts. k13. =21st row:= as 19th row. =22nd row:= k1. purl to last 14 sts. k14. repeat 19th and 20th rows once, 19th row once, 18th row once. =27th row:= knit. =28th row:= k1. purl to last 7 sts. k7. repeat 27th and 28th rows 4 times, 27th row once.** repeat from ** to ** twice, the 28th row once, 27th and 28th rows 3 times, 27th row once. cast off. the tie: cast on 2 sts. =1st row:= inc. 1. st. in each st. =2nd row:= knit. continue in garter st. inc. 1. st. each end of needle next and every alternate row to 12 sts. on needle. work 19 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--20 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--21 ins._=)= even in garter st. decrease to correspond to increasing at other end. to make up: press carefully. fold the hood and sew up back seam. sew to centre 9 ins. of the tie. =legging suit= (_continued_) leggings: cast on 110 sts. =1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row once. =3rd row:= (eyelets) k2. *wl. fwd. k2tog. p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 7 times. =to shape back:= k61. turn. =2nd row:= p12. turn. =3rd row:= k18. turn. =4th row:= p24. turn. continue in this manner, that is working over 6 more sts. every row to p96. turn. =next row:= knit. =next row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. continue in stocking st. inc. 1. st. each end of needle next and every following 8th row to 116 sts. on needle. continue even until work, at side edge, measures 8-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--9 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--9-1/2 ins._=)= ending with knit row. =next row:= k1. p57. turn. leave remaining sts. on spare needle. working on these 58 sts. proceed for leg:=1st row:= k1. k2tog. knit to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. continue in stocking st. dec. 1. st. each end of needle next and every following 4th row to 34 sts. on needle, then every following 5th row to 28 sts. continue even until leg seam measures 9-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--10-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--11 ins._=)= ending with knit row. proceed:=1st row:= k5. p8. k15. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= cast off 3 sts. k2. p8. k15. =4th row:= cast off 13 sts. knit to end of row. =5th row:= k2. p8. k2. =6th row:= knit. repeat 5th and 6th rows 3 times, then 5th row once. =14th row:= k2. k2tog. k4. k2tog. k2. =15th row:= k2. p6. k2. =16th row:= (k2. k2tog.) twice. k2. =17th row:= knit. =18th row:= k1. k2tog. k2. k2tog. k1. cast off knitways. join wool and work on remaining 58 sts. as follows:=1st row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =2nd row:= k1. k2tog. knit to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. continue to correspond to other leg until leg seam measures 9-1/2 ins. =(=_1-1/2 yrs.--10-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_2 yrs.--11 ins._=)= ending with knit row. 28 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k15. p8. k5. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= cast off 13 sts. k2. p8. k5. =4th row:= cast off 3 sts. knit to end of row. =5th row:= k2. p8. k2. =6th row:= knit. repeat 5th and 6th rows 3 times, then 5th row once. =14th row:= k2. k2tog. k4. k2tog. k2. =15th row:= k2. p6. k2. =16th row:= (k2. k2tog.) twice. k2. =17th row:= knit. =18th row:= k1. k2tog. k2. k2tog. k1. cast off knitways. to make up: press all pieces carefully. sew all seams. sew collar around neck of coat, placing ends 2 sts. from each front edge. sew buttons to correspond to buttonholes. crochet a cord. thread through eyelets at waist of leggings. make and sew a tassel to each end. sew a piece of elastic to each foot at instep. _heigh ho!_ [illustration: boy's cap--_see page 45._ legging suit with pixie hood--_see page 46._ girl's or boy's helmet--_see page 45._ mitts--_see page 44._] _socks for tots_ [illustration: (a)--_see page 49._ (b)--_see below._ (c)--_see page 49._ (d)--_see page 49._] (=b=) =diamond socks= materials: =3 ply beehive fingering.= 1 oz. white (w). 1/4 oz. each pink no. 2019 (p) and blue no. 188 (b). 5 yds. each yellow no. 2042 (y) and mauve no. 554 (m). set of 4 no. 13 "aero" steel knitting needles (points at both ends), for sizes 1 and 1-1/2 yrs. for size 2 yrs. use no. 12 needles. measurements: length of leg to bottom of heel flap 6 ins. tension: 9-1/2 sts. and 13 rows = l inch with no. 13 needles. 9 " " 11 " = 1 " " no. 12 " wind (w), (p) and (b) into 2 balls. cut each of (y) and (m) in half for the diagonal stripes. with (w) and 2 needles cast on 48 sts. work 1-1/2 ins. ribbing (k2. p2), dec. 1. st. at end of last row. proceed in pattern as follows (being careful to twist wool when changing colours, using separate ball of wool for each diamond and separate strand of wool for each diagonal stripe):**=1st row:= k1(b). 10(w). 1(y). 1(m). 10(w). 1(p). joining 2nd balls and strands of wool, k10(w). 1(m). 1(y). 10(w). 1(b). =2nd row:= k1. p1(b). 8(w). 1(y). 2(w). 1(m). 8(w). 3(p). 8(w). 1(m). 2(w). 1(y). 8(w). 1(b). k1(b). =3rd row:= k3(b). 6(w). 1(y). 4(w). 1(m). 6(w). 5(p). 6(w). 1(m). 4(w). 1(y). 6(w). 3(b). =4th row:= k1. p3(b). 4(w). 1(y). 6(w). 1(m). 4(w). 7(p). 4(w). 1(m). 6(w). 1(y). 4(w). 3(b). k1(b). =5th row:= k5(b). 2(w). 1(y). 8(w). 1(m). 2(w). 9(p). 2(w). 1(m). 8(w). 1(y). 2(w). 5(b). =6th row:= k1. p5(b). 1(y). 10(w). 1(m). 11(p). 1(m). 10(w). 1(y). 5(b). k1(b). =7th row:= k5(b). 1(y). 1(b). 10(w). 1(p). 1(m). 9(p). 1(m). 1(p). 10(w). 1(b). 1(y). 5(b). =8th row:= k1. p3(b). 1(y). 3(b). 8(w). 3(p). 1(m). 7(p). 1(m). 3(p). 8(w). 3(b). 1(y). 3(b). k1(b). =9th row:= k3(b). 1(y). 5(b). 6(w). 5(p). l(m). 5(p). 1(m). 5(p). 6(w). 5(b). 1(y). 3(b). =10th row:= k1. p1(b). 1(y). 7(b). 4(w). 7(p). 1(m). 3(p). 1(m). 7(p). 4(w). 7(b). 1(y). 1(b). k1(b). =11th row:= k1(b). 1(y). 9(b). 2(w). 9(p). 1(m). 1(p). 1(m). 9(p). 2(w). 9(b). 1(y). 1(b). =12th row:= k1(y). p11(b). 11(p). 1(m). 11(p). 11(b). k1(y). work back from 11th to 1st. rows inclusive.** repeat from ** to ** substituting (p) for (b), (m) for (y), (b) for (p), (y) for (m) and purl rows for knit rows and knit rows for purl rows. proceed:put first 12 sts. onto one needle. slip last 12 sts. onto 2nd needle. leave these 2 needles for heel, and remaining 23 sts. on one needle for instep. working on the 23 instep sts. proceed:=1st row:= k1(m). 10(w). 1(p). 10(w). 1(m). =2nd row:= k1(w). p1(m). 8(w). 3(p). 8(w). 1(m). k1(w). work 1 complete (p) diamond with (m) diagonal stripes to correspond to first whole (p) diamond worked. leave these sts. on needle until sole has been worked. =to make heel:= put all heel sts. onto one needle. with wrong side of work facing, join (w) wool. k1. p10. p2tog. p10. k1. 23 sts. on needle. =1st row:= knit. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat these 2 rows 7 times. =to shape heel:= k12. sl.1. k1. p.s.s.o. k1. turn. p3. p2tog. p1. turn. k4. sl.1. k1. p.s.s.o. k1. turn. p5. p2tog. p1. turn. continue in this manner until all sts. are worked. 13 sts. on needle. break wool. =to shape instep and sole:= with right side of work facing and (w) wool, pick up and knit 10 sts. along side of heel. knit the 13 sts. from heel needle and pick up and knit 10 sts. along other side of heel. =1st row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =2nd row:= k1. k2tog. knit to last 3 sts. sl.1. k1. p.s.s.o. k1. repeat these 2 rows to 21 sts. on needle. continue even in stocking st. until work measures same as instep piece. divide sole sts. on 2 needles leaving instep sts. on one needle. using (w) wool, working in rounds on 3 needles, continue even until work, from where sts. were picked up at heel, measures 2-1/2 ins. for size 4-1/2 3 ins. for size 5 3-1/2 ins. for size 5-1/2 =to shape toe:= =1st round:= k8. *k7. k2tog. repeat from * to end of round. =2nd and alternate rounds:= knit. =3rd round:= *k6. k2tog. repeat from * to end of round. =5th round:= *k5. k2tog. repeat from * to end of round. continue decreasing in this manner to 10 sts. in round. =next round:= *k2tog. repeat from * to end of round. break wool. thread end through remaining sts. draw up and fasten securely. sew seams. (=a=) =lacey socks=--_illustrated on page 48_ materials: =3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool=. 1 oz. =for needles, measurements and tension, see diamond socks, page 48.= pattern: =1st round:= *p1. k2. p1. k2tog. wl. fwd. k1. wl. fwd. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. repeat from * to end of round. =2nd round:= *p1. k2. p1. k5. repeat from * to end of round. =3rd round:= as 1st. round. =4th round:= *p1. miss next st. knit into back of next st. but do not slip off needle. knit into front of 1st. st. slip both sts. off needle together. p1. k5. repeat from * to end of round. these 4 rounds complete one pattern. cast on 44 sts. (16. 16. 12). work 2 ins. ribbing (k1. p1) inc. 1. st. in last round. rearrange sts. as follows:(18. 18. 9). continue even in pattern until work measures approx. 5 ins. from beginning ending with 4th pattern round. =to make heel:= knit the first 22 sts. of round for heel. divide remaining 23 sts. on 2 needles and leave for instep. =1st row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =2nd row:= knit. repeat these 2 rows 7 times, 1st. row once. =to shape heel:= k12. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k1. turn. p4. p2tog. p1. turn. k5. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k1. turn. p6. p2tog. p1. turn. continue in this manner until all sts. are worked. 12 sts. on needle. knit back 6 sts. put instep sts. on one needle. =to shape instep:= =1st needle:= knit remaining 6 heel sts. pick up and knit 10 sts. along side of heel. =2nd needle:= (instep needle, to be worked to the toe in pattern). *k2tog. wl. fwd. k1. wl. fwd. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. p1. k2. p1. repeat from * once. k2tog. wl. fwd. k1. wl. fwd. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. =3rd needle:= pick up and knit 10 sts. along other side of heel. knit remaining 6 heel sts. proceed:=1st round:= =1st needle:= knit. =2nd needle:= (k5. p1. k2. p1) twice. k5. =3rd needle:= knit. =2nd round:= =1st needle:= knit to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. =2nd needle:= (k2tog. wl. fwd. k1. wl. fwd. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. p1. k2. p1) twice. k2tog. wl. fwd. k1. wl. fwd. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. =3rd needle:= k1. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. knit to end of needle. keeping continuity of pattern on 2nd needle, at the instep end of each of the 1st. and 3rd needles continue dec. 1. st. every alternate row, until there are 11 sts. on each of 1st. and 3rd needles. still working the 2nd needle in pattern continue even until work, from where sts. were picked up at heel measures 2-1/2 ins. for size 4-1/2 3 ins. for size 5 3-1/2 ins. for size 5-1/2 dec. 1. st. in last round. shape toe as given for diamond socks, see page 48. [illustration: bb logo] (=c=) =plain socks=--_illustrated on page 48_ materials: =3 ply beehive fingering=. 1 oz. =for needles, measurements and tension, see diamond socks, page 48.= cast on 44 sts. (16. 16. 12). work 2 ins. ribbing (k1. p1). knit even in rounds until work measures 5 ins. from beginning. ***=to make heel:= knit first 11 sts. of round onto one needle. slip last 11 sts. of round onto other end of same needle. divide remaining 22 sts. on 2 needles and leave for instep. =1st row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =2nd row:= knit. repeat these 2 rows 7 times, 1st. row once. shape heel as given for lacey socks. (a), then keeping 2nd needle in plain knitting instead of pattern, shape instep as given for lacey socks. continue even in plain knitting until work, from where sts. were picked up at heel measures 2-1/2 ins. for size 4-1/2 3 ins. for size 5 3-1/2 ins. for size 5-1/2 shape toe as given for diamond socks, see page 48.*** (=d=) =plain ankle socks= materials: =3 ply beehive fingering=. 1 oz. =for needles and tension, see diamond socks page 48.= measurements: length of leg to bottom of heel flap 4-1/2 ins. cast on 44 sts. (16. 16. 12). work 2-1/2 ins. ribbing (k1. p1). knit even in rounds until work measures 3-1/2 ins. from beginning, then work from *** to *** as given for plain socks, (c), above. [illustration: bb logo] (=f=) =baby's panties=--_illustrated on page 3_ materials: =3 ply beehive non-shrink baby wool=. 2 ozs. two no. 11 beehive knitting needles. one medium crochet hook. measurements: length from top to lower edge at centre, 8-1/2 ins. tension: 8-1/2 sts. and 10 rows = 1 inch. cast on 72 sts. =1st row:= *k2. p2. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row twice. =4th row:= (eyelets) *k2. w.r.n. p2tog. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 8 times. continue even in garter st. until work measures 6-1/2 ins. from beginning. proceed:=to make leg:= =1st row:= k18. turn. =2nd row:= k1. k2tog knit to end of row. =3rd row:= k14. k2tog. k1. =4th row:= as 2nd row. continue decreasing in this manner until 1. st. remains. fasten off. beginning again on remaining sts. knit to end of row. proceed:=1st row:= k15. k2tog. k1. turn. =2nd row:= k1. k2tog. knit to end of row. =3rd row:= k13. k2tog. k1. =4th row:= as 2nd row. continue decreasing in this manner to 1. st. fasten off. continuing on remaining 36 sts. knit 11 rows even. inc. 1. st. each end of needle next and every alternate row to 72 sts. work 6-1/2 ins. even. work ribbing and eyelets to correspond to front. to make up: sew all seams. with double wool crochet a cord. thread through eyelets at waist. make and sew a small tassel to each end. [illustration: bb logo] =lady's jacket=--"=roberta=" with short and long sleeves. materials: =4 ply beehive fingering=. 8 ozs. pink no. 2019. 2 ozs. extra for long sleeves. two buttons. three stitch holders. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =bust= =34 ins.= =36 ins.= =38 ins.= length from top of shoulder 16 " 17 " 17-1/2 " length of short sleeve underarm seam 7 " 7 " 7 " length of long sleeve underarm seam 17 " 17 " 17 " right front: cast on 71 sts. knit 7 rows garter st. proceed: =1st row:= k32. *wl. fwd. k6. repeat from * to last 3 sts. wl. fwd. k3. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last 28 sts. k28. =3rd row:= k28. k2tog. *k2. wl. fwd. k2. k3tog. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k2. wl. fwd. k2. k2tog. =4th row:= k1. purl to last 28 sts. k28. these 4 rows complete one pattern. keeping border of 28 sts. in garter st. continue even in pattern until work from beginning measures 5 ins. ending at front edge. =next row:= (buttonhole). k6. cast off 2 sts. work in pattern to end of row. =next row:= work in pattern to cast-off sts. cast on 2 sts. k6. continue in pattern until work from beginning measures approx. 9 ins. =(=_36--9-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_38--10 ins._=)= ending with 4th pattern row. =to shape armhole:= =1st row:= k32. *wl. fwd. k8. repeat from * to last 21 sts. wl. fwd. k21. =2nd row:= cast off 18 sts. purl to last 28 sts. k28. still keeping garter st. border continue even in pattern until armhole from first shaping measures 7 ins. =(=_36--7-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_38--7-1/2 ins._=)=. =to shape shoulder:= at armhole edge cast off 9 sts. every alternate row once, then 8 sts. twice. leave remaining 28 sts. on st. holder. left front: cast on 71 sts. knit 7 rows garter st. proceed: =1st row:= k4. *wl. fwd. k6. repeat from * to last 31 sts. wl. fwd. k31. =2nd row:= k28. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k2tog. *k2. wl. fwd. k2. k3tog. repeat from * to last 34 sts. k2. wl. fwd. k2. k2tog. k28. =4th row:= k28. purl to last st. k1. working buttonhole as for right front, continue even in pattern until work from beginning measures approx. 9 ins. =(=_36--9-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_38--10 ins._=)= ending with 4th pattern row. =to shape armhole:= =1st row:= cast off 18 sts. k4. *wl. fwd. k6. repeat from * to last 31 sts. wl. fwd. k31. continue in pattern working to correspond to right front being careful to have shapings for opposite side. leave remaining 28 sts. on 2nd st. holder. back: cast on 115 sts. knit 7 rows garter st. proceed:=1st row:= k4. *wl. fwd. k6. repeat from * to last 3 sts. wl. fwd. k3. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k2tog. *k2. wl. fwd. k2. k3tog. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k2. wl. fwd. k2. k2tog. =4th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. these 4 rows complete one pattern. continue even in pattern until work from beginning measures approx. 9 ins. =(=_36--9-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_38--10 ins._=)= ending with 4th pattern row. =to shape armholes:= =1st row:= cast off 18 sts. k4. *wl. fwd. k6. repeat from * to last 21 sts. wl. fwd. k21. =2nd row:= cast off 18 sts. purl to last st. k1. continue even in pattern until armhole from first shaping measures 7 ins. =(=_36--7-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_38--7-1/2 ins._=)=. =to shape shoulders:= keeping continuity of pattern cast off 9 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then 8 sts. beginning following 4 rows. leave remaining 29 sts. on 3rd st. holder. sew shoulder seams. with right side of work facing, join wool and knit across sts. from 1st. st. holder. pick up and knit 1. st. from shoulder seam. knit across 29 back sts. (3rd st. holder). pick up and knit 1. st. from shoulder seam. knit across sts. from remaining (2nd) st. holder. 87 sts. on needle. knit 5 rows garter st. cast off 29 sts. knitways, 29 sts. purl ways, 29 sts. knitways. short sleeves: cast on 91 sts. knit 6 rows garter st. =7th row:= (k6. inc. 1. st. in next st.) 12 times. k7. 103 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern as given for back until sleeve measures approx. 9-1/2 ins. ending with 4th pattern row. cast off. long sleeves: cast on 71 sts. knit 6 rows garter st. =7th row:= k3. (k1. inc. 1. st. in next st.) 32 times. k4. 103 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern as given for back until sleeve measures approx. 19-1/2 ins. ending with 4th pattern row. cast off. to make up: press pieces carefully. sew side seams. sew up sleeve to within 2-1/2 ins. of top. sew in sleeves. make a link for the buttons and insert in buttonholes. =baby's jacket=--"=bob=" materials: =4 ply beehive fingering=. 3 ozs. pink no. 2019. two buttons. one stitch holder. two safety pins. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= width all round at underarm 18 ins. 19 ins. 19-1/2 ins. length from top of shoulder 9-1/2 " 10-1/2 " 10-1/2 " length of sleeve underarm seam 5-1/2 " 6 " 7 " right front: cast on 33 sts. knit 5 rows garter st. proceed:=1st row:= k18. *wl. fwd. k6. repeat from * to last 3 sts. wl. fwd. k3. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last 14 sts. k14. =3rd row:= k14. k2tog. *k2. wl. fwd. k2. k3tog. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k2. wl. fwd. k2. k2tog. =4th row:= k1. purl to last 14 sts. k14. these 4 rows complete one pattern. keeping border of 14 sts. in garter st. continue even in pattern until work measures 4 ins. from beginning ending at front edge. =next row:= (buttonhole). k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. work in pattern to end of row. continue even in pattern until work from beginning measures approx. 6-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--7 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--7 ins._=)= ending with 4th pattern row. =to shape armhole:= =1st row:= k18. *wl. fwd. k6. repeat from * to last 9 sts. wl. fwd. k9. =2nd row:= cast off 6 sts. purl to last 14 sts. k14. continue even in pattern until armhole from first shaping measures 3 ins. =(=_6 mos.--3-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--3-1/2 ins._=)=. =to shape shoulder:= at armhole edge cast off 7 sts. every alternate row once, then 6 sts. once. leave remaining 14 sts. on safety pin. left front: cast on 33 sts. knit 5 rows garter st. proceed: =1st row:= k4. *wl. fwd. k6. repeat from * to last 17 sts. wl. fwd. k17. =2nd row:= k14. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k2tog. *k2. wl. fwd. k2. k3tog. repeat from * to last 20 sts. k2. wl. fwd. k2. k2tog. k14. =4th row:= k14. purl to last st. k1. these 4 rows complete one pattern. keeping border of 14 sts. in garter st. continue even in pattern until work measures 4 ins. from beginning ending at front edge. =next row:= (buttonhole). k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. k10. purl to last st. k1. continue even in pattern until work from beginning measures approx. 6-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--7 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--7 ins._=)= ending with 4th pattern row. =to shape armhole:= cast off 6 sts. k4. *wl. fwd. k4. repeat from * to last 17 sts. wl. fwd. k17. continue in pattern, working to correspond to right front being careful to have shapings for opposite side. back: cast on 61 sts. knit 5 rows garter st. proceed:=1st row:= k4. *wl. fwd. k6. repeat from * to last 3 sts. wl. fwd. k3. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k2tog. *k2. wl. fwd. k2. k3tog. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k2. wl. fwd. k2. k2tog. =4th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. these 4 rows complete one pattern. continue even in pattern until work from beginning measures approx. 6-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--7 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--7 ins._=)= ending with 4th pattern row. =to shape armholes:= =1st row:= cast off 6 sts. k4. *wl. fwd. k6. repeat from * to last 9 sts. wl. fwd. k9. =2nd row:= cast off 6 sts. purl to last st. k1. continue even in pattern until armhole from first shaping measures 3 ins. =(=_6 mos.--3-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--3-1/2 ins._=)=. =to shape shoulders:= keeping continuity of pattern cast off 7 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then 6 sts. beginning following 2 rows. leave remaining 23 sts. on st. holder. sew shoulder seams. with right side of work facing, join wool and knit 14 sts. left at right front. pick up and knit 1. st. from shoulder seam. knit across 23 sts. of back. pick up and knit 1. st. from shoulder seam. knit 14 sts. left at left front. 53 sts. on needle. knit 3 rows garter st. cast off 15 sts. knitways, 23 sts. purl ways, 15 sts. knitways. sleeves: cast on 30 sts. knit 4 rows garter st. =5th row:= k1. (inc. 1. st. in next st. k3) 7 times. k1. 37 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern as given for back until sleeve measures approx. 6-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--7 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--8 ins._=)= ending with 4th pattern row. cast off. to make up: press pieces carefully. sew side seams. sew 5-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--6 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--7 ins._=)= of sleeve. sew in sleeves. make a link for the buttons and insert in buttonholes. [illustration: _=special supplement=_ _=ladies' and babies' bedjackets=_ =lady's jacket=--"=roberta="--_see page 50._ =baby's jacket=--"=bob="--_see page 50._] =lady's jacket=--"=pamela=" materials: =miss canada crochet-knitting wool=. 8 ozs. chalk green. one button. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =bust= =34 ins.= =36 ins.= =38 ins.= length from top of shoulder 18-1/2 " 19 " 19 " length of sleeve underarm seam 6-1/2 " 7 " 7-1/2 " right front: cast on 60 sts. knit 9 rows garter st. =10th row:= k10. *inc. 1. st. in next st. k7. repeat from * to last 2 sts. k2. 66 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k1. purl to last 10 sts. k10. =2nd row:= k10. k2tog. t.b.l. k1. *wl. fwd. knit the next st. knitting into the st. of the previous row. (the working of this st. will be termed "knit below" throughout). wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. repeat from * to last 5 sts. wl. fwd. knit below. wl. fwd. k1. k2tog. k1. =3rd row:= k1. purl to last 10 sts. k10. =4th row:= knit. these 4 rows complete one pattern. continue even in pattern until work measures 9-1/2 ins. from beginning, ending at front edge. =next row:= (buttonhole) k4. cast off 2 sts. k4. work in pattern to end of row. =next row:= work to cast-off sts. cast on 2 sts. k4. continue even in pattern until work measures approx. 11 ins. from beginning, ending with 2nd pattern row, and casting on 47 sts. at end of row for sleeve. proceed:=1st row:= k6. purl to last 10 sts. k10. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= k6. purl to last 11 sts. k11. =4th row:= k13. *knit below. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. wl. fwd. repeat from * to last 10 sts. knit below. wl. fwd. k1. k2tog. k6. =5th row:= k6. purl to last 11 sts. k11. =6th row:= knit. continue in this manner, knitting 1 more garter st. for lapel on next and every following 4th row, leaving 1 less pattern st. at front edge, until there are 30 garter sts. for lapel. continue even in pattern until sleeve is approx. 7-1/2 ins. wide, =(=_36--8 ins._=)= =(=_38--8 ins._=)=, ending at sleeve edge with 2nd row. =next row:= cast off 6 sts. knitways, then 107 sts. purl ways. left front: cast on 60 sts. knit 9 rows garter st. =10th row:= (k7. inc. 1. st. in next st.) 6 times. k12. 66 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k10. purl to last st. k1. =2nd row:= k1. k2tog. t.b.l. k1. *wl. fwd. knit below. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. repeat from * to last 14 sts. wl. fwd. knit below. wl. fwd. k1. k2tog. k10. =3rd row:= k10. purl to last st. k1. =4th row:= knit. these 4 rows complete one pattern. continue even in pattern until work measures 11 ins. from beginning ending with 3rd pattern row, casting on 47 sts. at end of row for sleeve. proceed:=1st row:= knit. =2nd row:= k11. purl to last 6 sts. k6. =3rd row:= k6. k2tog. t.b.l. k1. *wl. fwd. knit below. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. repeat from * to last 14 sts. wl. fwd. knit below. k13. =4th row:= k11. purl to last 6 sts. k6. =5th row:= knit. continue to correspond to right front, until sleeve is same depth, ending with 2nd row. =next row:= cast off 107 sts. purl ways, 6 sts. knitways. back: cast on 108 sts. knit 9 rows garter st. =10th row:= *k6. inc. 1. st. in next st. k5. repeat from * to end of row. 117 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =2nd row:= k1. k2tog. t.b.l. k1. *wl. fwd. knit below. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. repeat from * to last 5 sts. wl. fwd. knit below. wl. fwd. k1. k2tog. k1. =3rd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =4th row:= knit. these 4 rows complete one pattern. continue even in pattern until work measures approx. 11 ins. from beginning ending with 2nd pattern row and casting on 47 sts. at end of row for sleeve. =next row:= k6. purl to end of row. cast on 47 sts. for other sleeve. proceed:**=1st row:= knit. =2nd row:= k6. purl to last 6 sts. k6. =3rd row:= k6. k2tog. t.b.l. k1. *wl. fwd. knit below. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. repeat from * to last 10 sts. wl. fwd. knit below. wl. fwd. k1. k2tog. k6. =4th row:= k6. purl to last 6 sts. k6.** repeat from ** to ** until back of sleeve is one pattern less than depth of front of sleeve, ending with 4th row. proceed:=1st row:= k83. (k2tog. k3) 9 times. k83. =2nd row:= k6. p77. k36. p77. k6. =3rd row:= k6. k2tog. t.b.l. (k1. wl. fwd. knit below. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog.) 12 times. k1. wl. fwd. k40. wl. fwd. (k1. k3tog. k1. wl. fwd. knit below. wl. fwd.) 12 times. k1. k2tog. k6. =4th row:= cast off 6 sts. knitways, 77 sts. purl ways, 36 sts. knitways, 77 sts. purl ways, 6 sts. knitways. to make up: press pieces carefully. sew all seams. sew button to correspond to buttonhole. =baby's jacket=--"=pam=" materials: =miss canada crochet-knitting wool=. 3 ozs. chalk green. one button. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= width all round at underarm 18 ins. 19 ins. 19-1/2 ins. length from top of shoulder 9-1/2 " 10 " 10 " length of sleeve underarm seam 5-1/2 " 6 " 7 " right front: cast on 34 sts. knit 5 rows garter st. =6th row:= k6. (inc. 1. st. in next st. k6) 4 times. 38 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k1. purl to last 6 sts. k6. =2nd row:= k6. k2tog. t.b.l. k1. *wl. fwd. knit below. (see 2nd row, "pamela"). wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. repeat from * to last 5 sts. wl. fwd. knit below. wl. fwd. k1. k2tog. k1. =3rd row:= k1. purl to last 6 sts. k6. =4th row:= knit. these 4 rows complete one pattern. continue even in pattern until work measures 5-1/2 ins. from beginning, ending at front edge. =next row:= (buttonhole) k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. k2. work in pattern to end of row. continue even until work measures 6-1/2 ins. from beginning ending with 2nd pattern row, casting on 39 sts. at end of row for sleeve. proceed:=1st row:= k4. purl to last 6 sts. k6. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= k4. purl to last 7 sts. k7. continue in pattern working 1 more garter st. for lapel every 4th row, leaving 1 less pattern st. at front edge, until there are 14 garter sts. for lapel. continue even in pattern until sleeve is approx. 3 ins. wide, =(=_6 mos.--3-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--3-1/2 ins._=)=, ending with 2nd row. =next row:= cast off 4 sts. knitways, remaining 73 sts. purl ways. left front: cast on 34 sts. knit 5 rows garter st. =6th row:= k6. (inc. 1. st. in next st. k6) 4 times. 38 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k6. purl to last st. k1. =2nd row:= k1. k2tog. t.b.l. k1. *wl. fwd. knit below. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. repeat from * to last 10 sts. wl. fwd. knit below. wl. fwd. k1. k2tog. k6. =3rd row:= k6. purl to last st. k1. =4th row:= knit. these 4 rows complete one pattern. continue even in pattern until work measures 6-1/2 ins. from beginning, ending with 3rd pattern row, casting on 39 sts. at end of row for sleeve. proceed:=1st row:= knit. =2nd row:= k7. purl to last 4 sts. k4. =3rd row:= k4. k2tog. t.b.l. k1. *wl. fwd. knit below. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. repeat from * to last 10 sts. wl. fwd. knit below. k9. =4th row:= k7. purl to last 4 sts. k4. =5th row:= knit. continue to correspond to right front until sleeve is same depth, ending with 2nd row. cast off 73 sts. purl ways, remaining 4 sts. knitways. back: cast on 60 sts. knit 5 rows garter st. =6th row:= knit, inc. 3 sts. across row. 63 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =2nd row:= k1. k2tog. t.b.l. k1. *wl. fwd. knit below. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. repeat from * to last 5 sts. wl. fwd. knit below. wl. fwd. k1. k2tog. k1. =3rd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =4th row:= knit. these 4 rows complete one pattern. continue even in pattern until work measures approx. 6-1/2 ins. from beginning, ending with 2nd pattern row, and casting on 39 sts. at end of row for sleeve. =next row:= k4. purl to end of row, casting on 39 sts. for other sleeve. proceed:**=1st row:= knit. =2nd row:= k4. purl to last 4 sts. k4. =3rd row:= k4. k2tog. t.b.l. k1. *wl. fwd. knit below. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. repeat from * to last 8 sts. wl. fwd. knit below. wl. fwd. k1. k2tog. k4. =4th row:= k4. purl to last 4 sts. k4.** repeat from ** to ** until sleeve measures one pattern less than depth of front of sleeve, ending with 4th row. proceed:=1st row:= k58. (k2tog. k3) 5 times. k58. =2nd row:= k4. p54. k20. p54. k4. =3rd row:= k4. work 54 sts. in pattern. k20. work 54 sts. in pattern. k4. =next row:= cast off 4 sts. knitways, 54 sts. purl ways, 20 sts. knitways, 54 sts. purl ways, 4 sts. knitways. make up jacket as given for "pamela". [illustration: (_left_)--"=elizabeth="--_see page 54._ (_below_)--"=betty="--_see page 54._ (_right_)--"=pamela="--_see page 52._ (_below_)--"=pam="--_see page 52._] =lady's jacket=--"=elizabeth="--_illustrated on page 53_ materials: =beehive lustre crepe=. 10 ozs. bitter sweet =(=_36--10 ozs._=)= =(=_38--11 ozs._=)=. one button. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =bust= =34 ins.= =36 ins.= =38 ins.= length from top of shoulder 19 " 19-1/2 " 20 " length of sleeve underarm seam 15 " 15 " 15 " right front: cast on 61 sts. knit 10 rows garter st. =11th row:= *k5. inc. 1. st. in next st. k4. repeat from * to last st. k1. 67 sts. on needle. proceed:**=1st row:= k9. p2. (k8. p2. k5. p2.) 3 times. k5. =2nd row:= k1. p4. k2. (p5. k2. p8. k2) 3 times. p5. k4. =3rd row:= k4. keeping wool at back of needle slip next st. purl ways. k4. pass the slipped st. over the 4 knitted sts. (the working of these 5 sts. will be termed "cross" throughout). p2. (k8. p2. cross. p2) 3 times. k5. =4th row:= k1. p4. k2. (p2. w.r.n. p2. k2. p8. k2) 3 times. p2. w.r.n. p2. k4. =5th row:= k6. wl. fwd. slip the w.r.n. of previous row purl ways. k2. p2. (k8. p2. k2. wl. fwd. slip the w.r.n. of previous row purl ways. k2. p2) 3 times. k5. =6th row:= k1. p4. k2. (p2. purl the two wl. fwd.'s tog. p2. k2. p8. k2) 3 times. p2. purl the two wl. fwd.'s tog. p2. k4.** repeat from ** to ** 17 times, then 1st. row once. =to shape armhole:= keeping continuity of pattern, at armhole edge cast off 8 sts. once, then dec. 1. st. every alternate row to 50 sts. on needle. continue even until 25 patterns have been worked from beginning. work first 4 rows of next pattern ending at front edge. =next row:= (buttonhole). k2. cast off 2 sts. work in pattern to end of row. =next row:= work in pattern, casting on 2 sts. to replace the 2 cast-off sts. =to shape neck:= keeping continuity of pattern, at neck edge cast off 13 sts. k1. k2tog. (k3. p2. k5. p2. k5) twice. dec. 1. st. every alternate row to 28 sts. on needle. work 1 row even. =to shape shoulder:= keeping continuity of pattern, at armhole edge cast off 7 sts. every alternate row 4 times. left front: cast on 61 sts. knit 10 rows garter st. =11th row:= k1. *k4. inc. 1. st. in next st. k5. repeat from * to end of row. 67 sts. on needle. proceed:**=1st row:= k5. (p2. k5. p2. k8) 3 times. p2. k9. =2nd row:= k4. p5. (k2. p8. k2. p5) 3 times. k2. p4. k1. =3rd row:= k5. (p2. cross. p2. k8) 3 times. p2. cross. k4. =4th row:= k4. p2. w.r.n. p2. (k2. p8. k2. p2. w.r.n. p2) 3 times. k2. p4. k1. =5th row:= k5. (p2. k2. wl. fwd. slip the w.r.n. of previous row purl ways. k2. p2. k8) 3 times. p2. k2. wl. fwd. slip the w.r.n. of previous row purl ways. k6. =6th row:= k4. p2. purl the two wl. fwd.'s tog. (p2. k2. p8. k2. p2. purl the two wl. fwd.'s tog. p2) 3 times. k2. p4. k1.** repeat from ** to ** 17 times. keeping continuity of pattern continue to correspond to right front, omitting buttonhole and being careful to have all shapings for opposite side. back: cast on 110 sts. knit 10 rows garter st. =11th row:= *k4. inc. 1. st. in next st. k5. repeat from * to end of row. 121 sts. on needle. proceed:**=1st row:= k1. *k4. p2. k5. p2. k4. repeat from * to last st. k1. =2nd row:= k1. *p4. k2. p5. k2. p4. repeat from * to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k1. *k4. p2. cross. p2. k4. repeat from * to last st. k1. =4th row:= k1. *p4. k2. p2. w.r.n. p2. k2. p4. repeat from * to last st. k1. =5th row:= k1. *k4. p2. k2. wl. fwd. slip the w.r.n. of previous row purl ways. k2. p2. k4. repeat from * to last st, k1. =6th row:= k1. *p4. k2. p2. purl the two wl. fwd.'s tog. p2. k2. p4. repeat from * to last st. k1.** repeat from ** to ** 17 times. =to shape armholes:= keeping continuity of pattern, cast off 8 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle next and every alternate row to 87 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until armhole measures same as front. =to shape shoulders:= keeping continuity of pattern, cast off 7 sts. beginning next 8 rows. cast off remaining sts. (_continued on page 55_) =baby's jacket=-"=betty="-_illustrated on page 53_ materials: =beehive lustre crepe=. 3 ozs. bitter sweet. one button. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= width all round at underarm 18 ins. 19 ins. 19-1/2 ins. length from top of shoulder 9-1/2 " 10 " 10 " length of sleeve underarm seam 5-1/2 " 6 " 7 " right front: cast on 33 sts. knit 6 rows garter st. =7th row:= *k5. inc. 1. st. in next st. k5. repeat from * to end of row. 36 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k9. p2. k8. p2. k5. p2. k8. =2nd row:= k1. p7. k2. p5. k2. p8. k2. p5. k4. =3rd row:= k4. keeping wool at back of needle slip the next st. purl ways. k4. pass the slipped st. over the 4 knitted sts. (the working of these 5 sts. will be termed "cross" throughout). p2. k8. p2. cross. p2. k8. =4th row:= k1. p7. k2. p2. w.r.n. p2. k2. p8. k2. p2. w.r.n. p2. k4. =5th row:= k6. wl. fwd. slip the w.r.n. of the previous row purl ways. k2. p2. k8. p2. k2. wl. fwd. slip the w.r.n. of the previous row purl ways. k2. p2. k8. =6th row:= k1. p7. k2. p2. purl the 2 wl. fwds. tog. p2. k2. p8. k2. p2. purl the 2 wl. fwds. tog. p2. k4. these 6 rows complete one pattern. continue even in pattern until work measures 6-1/2 ins. from beginning, ending at armhole edge. =to shape armhole:= keeping continuity of pattern cast off 3 sts. once, then dec. 1. st. every alternate row 4 times. 29 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until armhole measures 2 ins. from first shaping, ending at front edge. =next row:= (buttonhole) k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. work in pattern to end of row. =next row:= work in pattern to end of row. =to shape neck:= cast off 7 sts. work in pattern to end of row. keeping continuity of pattern, at neck edge dec. 1. st. every row to 16 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until armhole from first shaping measures 3 ins. =(=_6 mos.--3-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--3-1/2 ins._=)= ending at armhole edge. =to shape shoulder:= at armhole edge cast off 8 sts. every alternate row twice. left front: cast on 33 sts. knit 6 rows garter st. =7th row:= *k5. inc. 1. st. in next st. k5. repeat from * to end of row. 36 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k8. p2. k5. p2. k8. p2. k9. =2nd row:= k4. p5. k2. p8. k2. p5. k2. p7. k1. =3rd row:= k8. p2. cross. p2. k8. p2. cross. k4. =4th row:= k4. p2. w.r.n. p2. k2. p8. k2. p2. w.r.n. p2. k2. p7. k1. =5th row:= k8. p2. k2. wl. fwd. slip the w.r.n. of previous row purl ways. k2. p2. k8. p2. k2. wl. fwd. slip the w.r.n. of previous row purl ways. k6. =6th row:= k4. p2. purl the 2 wl. fwds. tog. p2. k2. p8. k2. p2. purl the 2 wl. fwds. tog. p2. k2. p7. k1. these 6 rows complete one pattern. keeping continuity of pattern continue to correspond to right front, omitting buttonhole, and being careful to have all shapings for opposite side. back: cast on 66 sts. knit 6 rows garter st. =7th row:= *k5. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to last 6 sts. k6. 76 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k4. (k4. p2. k5. p2. k4) 4 times. k4. =2nd row:= k1. p3. (p4. k2. p5. k2. p4) 4 times. p3. k1. =3rd row:= k4. (k4. p2. cross. p2. k4) 4 times. k4. =4th row:= k1. p3. (p4. k2. p2. w.r.n. p2. k2. p4) 4 times. p3. k1. =5th row:= k4. (k4. p2. k2. wl. fwd. slip the w.r.n. of previous row purl ways. k2. p2. k4) 4 times. k4. =6th row:= k1. p3. (p4. k2. p2. purl the 2 wl. fwds. tog. p2. k2. p4) 4 times. p3. k1. these 6 rows complete one pattern. continue even in pattern until work measures 6-1/2 ins. from beginning. =to shape armholes:= with right side of work facing, keeping continuity of pattern, cast off 3 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle next and every alternate row 4 times. 62 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until armhole from first shaping measures 3 ins. =(=_6 mos.--3-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--3-1/2 ins._=)=. =to shape shoulders:= cast off 8 sts, beginning next 4 rows. 5th row: *k1. k2tog. k2. repeat from * to end of row. cast off. (_continued on page 55_) "=elizabeth=" (_continued from page 54_) sleeves: cast on 110 sts. knit 10 rows garter st. =11th row:= k4. *inc. 1. st. in next st. k5. repeat from * to end of row. 121 sts. on needle. proceed:work first 4 rows in pattern as given for back. =5th row:= k1. (k4. p2. k2. wl. fwd. slip the w.r.n. of previous row purl ways. k2. p2. k4) twice. (k2tog. k2. p2. k2. wl. fwd. slip the w.r.n. of previous row purl ways. k2. p2. k2. k2tog. k4. p2. k2. wl. fwd. slip the w.r.n. of previous row purl ways. k2. p2. k4) twice. k4. p2. k2. wl. fwd. slip the w.r.n. of previous row purl ways. k2. p2. k5. 117 sts. on needle. =6th row:= k1. (p4. k2. p2. purl the 2 wl. fwds. tog. p2. k2. p4) twice. (p3. k2. p2. purl the 2 wl. fwds. tog. p2. k2. p7. k2. p2. purl the 2 wl. fwds. tog. p2. k2. p4) twice. p4. k2. p2. purl the 2 wl. fwds. tog. p2. k2. p4. k1. =7th row:= k1. (k4. p2. k5. p2. k4) twice. (k3. p2. k5. p2. k7. p2. k5. p2. k4) twice. k4. p2. k5. p2. k5. =8th row:= k1. (p4. k2. p5. k2. p4) twice. (p3. k2. p5. k2. p7. k2. p5. k2. p4) twice. p4. k2. p5. k2. p4. k1. =9th row:= k1. (k4. p2. cross. p2. k4) twice. (k2tog. k1. p2. cross. p2. k1. k2tog. k4. p2. cross. p2. k4) twice. k4. p2. cross. p2. k5. 113 sts. on needle. keeping continuity of pattern continue decreasing 4 sts. in this manner every 4th row 5 more times. 93 sts. on needle. work 3 rows even. =next row:= k1. (k4. p2. cross. p2. k4) twice. (k3tog. k4. p2. cross. p2. k4) twice. k4. p2. cross. p2. k5. work 3 rows even. =next row:= k1. (k4. p2. k5. p2. k4) twice. (k2tog. k3. p2. k5. p2. k4) twice. k4. (p2. k5) twice. 87 sts. on needle. beginning with 2nd row as given for pattern for back, continue even in pattern until sleeve measures 15 ins. from beginning, or desired length. =to shape cap:= *keeping continuity of pattern, cast off 2 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then 1. st. beginning following 2 rows.* repeat from * to * to 21 sts. on needle. cast off. collar: cast on 20 sts. knit 12-1/2 ins. garter st. cast off. to make up: press all pieces carefully. sew all seams. sew in sleeves, placing the seam 4 sts. to front of the side seam. sew collar in position, placing the ends to the edges of fronts. sew button to correspond to buttonhole. "=betty=" (_continued from page 54_) sleeves: cast on 36 sts. knit 6 rows garter st. =7th row:= *k2. inc. 1. st. in next st. k3. repeat from * to end of row. 42 sts. on needle. work in pattern as given for back, but working sts. in brackets twice instead of 4 times. continue even until sleeve from beginning measures 5-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--6 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--7 ins._=)=. cast off 2 sts. beginning every row to 10 sts. on needle. cast off. collar: cast on 15 sts. work 6 ins. garter st. =(=_6 mos.--6-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--7 ins._=)=. cast off. make up jacket as given for "elizabeth". "=jacqueline=" (_continued from page 57_) sleeves: cast on 121 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 9 times. proceed:=1st row:= k48. (wl. fwd. k2tog. wl. fwd. k3. k3tog. k3. wl. fwd. k1.) twice. wl. fwd. k2tog. k47. =2nd and alternate rows:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k48. (wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k2. k3tog. k2. wl. fwd. k2) twice. wl. fwd. k2tog. k47. =5th row:= k48. (wl. fwd. k2tog. k2. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. wl. fwd. k3) twice. wl. fwd. k2tog. k47. =7th row:= k48. (wl. fwd. k2tog. k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k4) twice. wl. fwd. k2tog. k47. =9th row:= k45. k2tog. t.b.l. k1. (wl. fwd. k2tog. wl. fwd. k3. k3tog. k3. wl. fwd. k1) twice. wl. fwd. (k2tog.) twice. k45. continue dec. 1. st. each side of pattern panel in this manner every following 4th row to 97 sts. on needle ending with purl row. sleeve now measures approx. 7 ins. from beginning. =to shape cap:= still dec. 1. st. every 4th row each side of pattern panel, cast off 1. st. beginning every row to 35 sts. on needle. cast off. to make up: press carefully. sew all seams. cut ribbon in half. sew one piece to each front and tie as illustrated. "=nan=" (_continued from page 58_) =8th row:= k1. *inc. 2 sts. in next st. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to last 2 sts. inc. 2 sts. in next st. k1. 245 sts. on needle. =9th row:= knit. =10th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat 9th and 10th rows 6 times, then 9th row once. change to no. 12 needles =(=_36--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_38--no. 10 needles_=)= and proceed:=24th row:= k1. *k3tog. k2tog. repeat from * to last 4 sts. k3tog. k1. 99 sts. on needle. =25th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =26th row:= knit. repeat from 3rd to 26th row once, then 3rd to 24th row once. knit 13 rows garter st. cast off loosely. neckband: with no. 12 needles =(=_36--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_38--no. 10 needles_=)= and right side of work facing, beginning at right front, slip the 20 sts. from st. holder onto a needle. join wool, and using same needle, pick up and knit 12 sts. along side of neck. pick up and knit 27 sts. across back of neck, and 12 sts. along other side of neck. knit across sts. of left front. 91 sts. on needle. knit 3 rows garter st. =4th row:= k3. cast off 2 sts. knit to last 5 sts. cast off 2 sts. k3. =5th row:= k3. cast on 2 sts. knit to last 3 sts. cast on 2 sts. k3. =6th row:= knit. cast off loosely. to make up: press the borders only. sew side and sleeve seams. make a link with the buttons and insert in buttonholes. "=margaret=" (_continued from page 56_) sleeves: ch. 10 sts. join wool to centre s.c. of 3. s.c. group at right of shoulder section and work in s.c. across armhole to corresponding point at left. ch. 10. turn. working 2 shells on each ch. 10, continue in shell pattern until sleeves measures 13 ins. fasten off. collar: join wool at right front edge. work 4 rows s.c. along neck edge. =5th row:= work in s.c. increasing 8. s.c. across row. repeat 5th row 6 times, being careful not to increase over increased sts. of previous rows. =next row:= *work 5 shells. (1. s.c. 1. d.c. 1. s.c.) in next s.c. 1. s.s. in next s.c. (this increases 1 shell). repeat from * to end of row. work 8 rows even in shell pattern. fasten off. to make up: press carefully. sew side and sleeve seams. cut narrow ribbon in half. thread through shells of sleeve 1 inch from cuff edge. tie in bow. cut wider ribbon in half and sew 1 piece to each front at neck edge. "=jack=" (_continued from page 57_) sleeves: cast on 41 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 7 times. proceed:**=1st row:= k14. wl. fwd. k2tog. wl. fwd. k3. k3tog. k3. wl. fwd. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. k13. =2nd and alternate rows:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k14. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k2. k3tog. k2. wl. fwd. k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. k13. =5th row:= k14. wl. fwd. k2tog. k2. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. wl. fwd. k3. wl. fwd. k2tog. k13. =7th row:= k14. wl. fwd. k2tog. k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k4. wl. fwd. k2tog. k13. =8th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1.** repeat from ** to ** until sleeve from beginning measures 5-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--6 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--7 ins._=)=. keeping centre panel even, cast off 2 sts. beginning every row to 15 sts. on needle. cast off. make up as given for "jacqueline". [illustration: bb logo] [illustration: (_left_)--"=margaret="--_see below._ (_below_)--"=peggy="--_see page 6._ _shown in pram._] =lady's crocheted jacket=--"=margaret=" materials: 3 ply =beehive non-shrink baby wool=. 11 ozs. sky blue. =(=_36--11 ozs._=)= =(=_38--12 ozs._=)=. one no. 1 steel crochet hook. (american gauge). 1 yd. ribbon 1-1/2 ins. wide. 2 yds. ribbon 1 inch wide. measurements: =bust= =34 ins.= =36 ins.= =38 ins.= length from top of shoulder 18 " 18-1/2 " 19-1/2 " length of sleeve underarm seam 13 " 13 " 13 " tension and shell pattern as given for crocheted bonnet, see page 6. _the instructions are written for size 34. sizes 36 and 38 are written in brackets thus:=(= =)=._ beginning at neck edge ch. 78 sts. =1st row:= 1. s.c. in 2nd ch. from hook. 1. s.c. in next ch. 3. s.c. in next ch. (left front shoulder). 1. s.c. in next 17 ch. 3. s.c. in next ch. (left back shoulder). 1. s.c. in next 35 ch. 3. s.c. in next ch. (right back shoulder). 1. s.c. in next 17 ch. 3. s.c. in next ch. (right front shoulder). 1. s.c. in next 2. ch. ch. 3. turn. work 2nd row as given for baby's crocheted coat, see page 6. continue in s.c. inc. 2. sts. at each end of row (for front of neck, and working 3. s.c. in centre of each 3. s.c. group every row 9 times) omitting increases at each end of row, continue in s.c. as before until work from beginning measures 4-1/2 ins. =(=_36--5 ins._=)= =(=_38--5-1/2 ins._=)= ending at left front edge. ch. 1. turn. do not break wool. left front: work 1. s.c. in each st. to centre s.c. of next 3. s.c. group. ch. 10. turn. working 2 shells over ch., continue in shell pattern across left front. continue even in shell pattern until shell section measures 12 ins. =(=_36--12 ins._=)= =(=_38--12-1/2 ins._=)=. fasten off. right front: ch. 10 sts. join wool to centre s.c. of 1st. 3. s.c. group from right front edge. work in s.c. to right front edge. continue to correspond to left front. back: ch. 10 sts. join wool to centre s.c. of 2nd 3. s.c. group from left front edge. work in s.c. across back to centre s.c. of next 3. s.c. group. ch. 10 sts. turn. working 2 shells on each ch. 10, continue in shell pattern until back is same length as front. (_continued on page 55_) =lady's jacket=--"=jacqueline=" _illustrated on page 59_ materials: =beehive lustre crepe=. 8 ozs. coral mist. 1 yd. ribbon. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =bust= =34 ins.= =36 ins.= =38 ins.= length from top of shoulder 17 " 17-1/2 " 18 " length of sleeve underarm seam 7 " 7 " 7 " right front: cast on 65 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 9 times. proceed:**=1st row:= (k1. p1) 4 times. k17. (wl. fwd. k2tog. wl. fwd. k3. k3tog. k3. wl. fwd. k1) twice. wl. fwd. k2tog. k14. =2nd and alternate rows:= k1. purl to last 9 sts. k1. (p1. k1) 4 times. =3rd row:= (k1. p1) 4 times. k17. (wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k2. k3tog. k2. wl. fwd. k2) twice. wl. fwd. k2tog. k14. =5th row:= (k1. p1) 4 times. k17. (wl. fwd. k2tog. k2. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. wl. fwd. k3) twice. wl. fwd. k2tog. k14. =7th row:= (k1. p1) 4 times. k17. (wl. fwd. k2tog. k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k4) twice. wl. fwd. k2tog. k14. =8th row:= k1. purl to last 9 sts. k1. (p1. k1) 4 times.** repeat from ** to ** 10 times. work from beginning now measures approx. 10 ins. =(=_36--10 ins._=)= =(=_38--10-1/2 ins._=)=. =to shape armhole and neck:= =1st row:= (k1. p1) 4 times. k1. k2tog. work in pattern to end of row. =2nd row:= cast off 6 sts. purl to last 9 sts. (k1. p1) 4 times. k1. keeping continuity of panel pattern, dec. 1. st. at armhole edge next then every alternate row 6 times, at the same time dec. 1. st. at front edge (inside moss st. border) on 2nd and every following 4th row to 48 sts. on needle. keeping armhole edge even and keeping continuity of pattern, continue dec. 1. st. (inside border) every 4th row to 37 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until armhole from first shaping measures 7 ins. =(=_36--7-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_38--7-1/2 ins._=)=. =to shape shoulder:= at armhole edge cast off 28 sts. work 2-1/4 ins. =(=_36--2-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_38--2-1/2 ins._=)= moss st. on remaining 9 sts. cast off. left front: cast on 65 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 9 times. proceed:**=1st row:= k15. (wl. fwd. k2tog. wl. fwd. k3. k3tog. k3. wl. fwd. k1) twice. wl. fwd. k2tog. k16. (p1. k1) 4 times. =2nd and alternate rows:= k1. (p1. k1) 4 times. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k15. (wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k2. k3tog. k2. wl. fwd. k2) twice. wl. fwd. k2tog. k16. (p1. k1) 4 times. =5th row:= k15. (wl. fwd. k2tog. k2. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. wl. fwd. k3) twice. wl. fwd. k2tog. k16. (p1. k1) 4 times. =7th row:= k15. (wl. fwd. k2tog. k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k4) twice. wl. fwd. k2tog. k16. (p1. k1) 4 times. =8th row:= k1. (p1. k1) 4 times. purl to last st. k1.** repeat from ** to ** 10 times. continue to correspond to right front being careful to have all shapings for opposite side. back: cast on 119 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 9 times. proceed:**=1st row:= k15. *(wl. fwd. k2tog. wl. fwd. k3. k3tog. k3. wl. fwd. k1) twice. wl. fwd. k2tog.* k38. repeat from * to * once. k14. =2nd and alternate rows:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k15. *(wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k2. k3tog. k2. wl. fwd. k2) twice. wl. fwd. k2tog.* k38. repeat from * to * once. k14. =5th row:= k15. *(wl. fwd. k2tog. k2. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. wl. fwd. k3) twice. wl. fwd. k2tog.* k38. repeat from * to * once. k14. =7th row:= k15. *(wl. fwd. k2tog. k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k4) twice. wl. fwd. k2tog.* k38. repeat from * to * once. k14. =8th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1.** repeat from ** to ** 10 times. =to shape armholes:= keeping continuity of pattern cast off 6 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle next and every alternate row to 93 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until armhole measures same length as front. =to shape shoulders:= cast off 28 sts. beginning next 2 rows. cast off remaining sts. (_continued on page 55_) =baby's jacket=--"=jack=" _illustrated on page 59_ materials: =beehive lustre crepe=. 3 ozs. coral mist. 3/4 yd. ribbon. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= width all round at underarm 18 ins. 19 ins. 19-1/2 ins. length from top of shoulder 10-1/2 " 11 " 11-1/2 " length of sleeve underarm seam 5-1/2 " 6 " 7 " right front: cast on 35 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 7 times. proceed:**=1st row:= (k1. p1) twice. k9. wl. fwd. k2tog. wl. fwd. k3. k3tog. k3. wl. fwd. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. k8. =2nd and alternate rows:= k1. purl to last 5 sts. k1. (p1. k1) twice. =3rd row:= (k1. p1) twice. k9. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k2. k3tog. k2. wl. fwd. k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. k8. =5th row:= (k1. p1) twice. k9. wl. fwd. k2tog. k2. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. wl. fwd. k3. wl. fwd. k2tog. k8. =7th row:= (k1. p1) twice. k9. wl. fwd. k2tog. k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k4. wl. fwd. k2tog. k8. =8th row:= k1. purl to last 5 sts. k1. (p1. k1) twice.** repeat from ** to ** 7 times. work from beginning now measures approx. 7-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--7-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--8 ins._=)=. =to shape armhole and neck:= =1st row:= (k1. p1) twice. k1. k2tog. k6. work in pattern to end of row. =2nd row:= cast off 3 sts. purl to last 5 sts. k1. (p1. k1) twice. keeping continuity of panel pattern, dec. 1. st. at armhole edge next then every alternate row 3 times, at the same time dec. 1. st. at neck edge (inside moss st. border) every following 4th row to 20 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until armhole from first shaping measures 3 ins. =(=_6 mos.--3-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--3-1/2 ins._=)=. =to shape shoulder:= at armhole edge cast off 15 sts. work 1-1/4 ins. moss st. on remaining 5 sts. cast off. left front: cast on 35 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 7 times. proceed:**=1st row:= k9. wl. fwd. k2tog. wl. fwd. k3. k3tog. k3. wl. fwd. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog. k8. (p1. k1) twice. =2nd and alternate rows:= k1. (p1. k1) twice. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k9. wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k2. k3tog. k2. wl. fwd. k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. k8. (p1. k1) twice. =5th row:= k9. wl. fwd. k2tog. k2. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. wl. fwd. k3. wl. fwd. k2tog. k8. (p1. k1) twice. =7th row:= k9. wl. fwd. k2tog. k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k4. wl. fwd. k2tog. k8. (p1. k1) twice. =8th row:= k1. (p1. k1) twice. purl to last st. k1** continue to correspond to right front being careful to have all shapings for opposite side. back: cast on 65 sts. =1st row:= k1. *p1. k1. repeat from * to end of row. repeat 1st. row 7 times. proceed:**=1st row:= k9. *wl. fwd. k2tog. wl. fwd. k3. k3tog. k3. wl. fwd. k1. wl. fwd. k2tog.* k20. repeat from * to * once. k8. =2nd and alternate rows:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =3rd row:= k9. *wl. fwd. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k2. k3tog. k2. wl. fwd. k2. wl. fwd. k2tog.* k20. repeat from * to * once. k8. =5th row:= k9. *wl. fwd. k2tog. k2. wl. fwd. k1. k3tog. k1. wl. fwd. k3. wl. fwd. k2tog.* k20. repeat from * to * once. k8. =7th row:= k9. *wl. fwd. k2tog. k3. wl. fwd. k3tog. wl. fwd. k4. wl. fwd. k2tog.* k20. repeat from * to * once. k8. =8th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1.** repeat from ** to ** 7 times. =to shape armholes:= keeping continuity of pattern, cast off 3 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle next and every alternate row to 51 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until armhole measures same length as front. cast off. (_continued on page 55_) =lady's jacket=--"=nan=" materials: =4 ply miss canada and andalusian=. 8 ozs. blue no. 230 =(=_36--9 ozs._=)= =(=_38--10 ozs._=)=. 3 stitch holders. 2 buttons. two no. 12 and two no. 10 beehive knitting needles, 15 inches long. =(=_36--two no. 11 and two no. 9_=)= =(=_38--two no. 10 and two no. 8_=)=. measurements: =bust= =34 ins.= =36 ins.= =38 ins.= length from top of shoulder 15-1/2 " 16 " 16-1/2 " length of sleeve underarm seam 7-1/2 " 8 " 8-1/2 " tension: 8 sts. and 10 rows = 1 inch with no. 10 needles. 7-1/2 " " 9 " = 1 " " no. 9 " 7 " " 9 " = 1 " " no. 8 " =the instructions are written for size 34. for size 36 use no. 11 and no. 9 needles, for size 38 use no. 10 and no. 8 needles and follow the same instructions.= =the purled side is the right side of the work.= right front: with no. 12 needles =(=_36--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_38--no. 10 needles_=)= cast on 56 sts. loosely. knit 13 rows garter st. **change to no. 10 needles =(=_36--no. 9 needles_=)= =(=_38--no. 8 needles_=)= and proceed:=1st row:= k8. *inc. 2 sts. in next st. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to last 2 sts. inc. 2 sts. in next st. k1. 127 sts. on needle. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= k8. purl to last st. k1. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows once. =6th row:= knit to last 8 sts. turn. =7th row:= purl to last st. k1. repeat from 2nd to 7th row once, then 2nd and 3rd rows once, then 2nd row once. change to no. 12 needles =(=_36--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_38--no. 10 needles_=)= and proceed:=17th row:= k8. *k3tog. k2tog. repeat from * to last 4 sts. k3tog. k1. 56 sts. on needle. =18th row:= k1. purl to last 8 sts. k8. =19th row:= knit. =20th row:= k1. purl to last 8 sts. k8. =21st row:= k8. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to end of row. repeat from 18th to 20th row once.** repeat from ** to ** once, then from ** to 21st row once. cast on 54 sts. at end of last row for sleeve. proceed:***=1st row:= k12. purl to last 8 sts. k8. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= k12. purl to last 8 sts. k8. change to no. 10 needles =(=_36--no. 9 needles_=)= =(=_38--no. 8 needles_=)= and proceed:=4th row:= k8. *inc. 2 sts. in next st. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to last 12 sts. k12. 245 sts. on needle. =5th row:= knit. =6th row:= k8. purl to last 12 sts. k12. repeat 5th and 6th rows once. =9th row:= knit to last 8 sts. turn. =10th row:= purl to last 12 sts. turn. repeat 5th and 6th rows twice, 9th and 10th rows once, 5th and 6th rows once, then 5th row once. change to no. 12 needles =(=_36--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_38--no. 10 needles_=)= and proceed:=20th row:= k8. *k3tog. k2tog. repeat from * to last 12 sts. k12. 110 sts. on needle. =21st row:= k12. purl to last 8 sts. k8. =22nd row:= knit. =23rd row:= k12. purl to last 8 sts. k8. =24th row:= k8. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 12 sts. k12.*** repeat from *** to *** twice, then 21st and 22nd rows once. =next row:= k12. purl to last 20 sts. slip these 20 sts. onto a st. holder. change to no. 10 needles =(=_36--no. 9 needles_=)= =(=_38--no. 8 needles_=)= and proceed:=1st row:= k1. *inc. 1. st. in next st. inc. 2 sts. in next st. repeat from * to last 13 sts. inc. 1. st. in next st. k12. 205 sts. on needle. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= k1. purl to last 12 sts. k12. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows once, then 2nd row once. =7th row:= k1. purl to last 12 sts. turn. repeat from 2nd to 7th row once, the 2nd and 3rd rows once, then 2nd row once. change to no. 12 needles =(=_36--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_38--no. 10 needles_=)= and proceed:=17th row:= k1. *k2tog. k3tog. repeat from * to last 14 sts. k2tog. k12. 90 sts. on needle. =18th row:= k12. purl to last st. k1. =19th row:= knit. =20th row:= k12. purl to last st. k1. =21st row:= k2. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 12 sts. k12. =22nd row:= k12. purl to last st. k1. leave these sts. on st. holder until left front has been worked. left front: with no. 12 needles =(=_36--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_38--no. 10 needles_=)= cast on 56 sts. loosely. knit 13 rows garter st. change to no. 10 needles =(=_36--no. 9 needles_=)= =(=_38--no. 8 needles_=)= and proceed:**=1st row:= k1. *inc. 2 sts. in next st. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to last 9 sts. inc. 2 sts. in next st. k8. 127 sts. on needle. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= k1. purl to last 8 sts. k8. =4th row:= knit. =5th row:= k1. purl to last 8 sts. turn. =6th row:= knit. =7th row:= k1. purl to last 8 sts. k8. repeat from 2nd to 7th row once, then 2nd to 4th row once. change to no. 12 needles =(=_36--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_38--no. 10 needles_=)= and proceed:=17th row:= k1. *k3tog. k2tog. repeat from * to last 11 sts. k3tog. k8. 56 sts. on needle. =18th row:= k8. purl to last st. k1. =19th row:= knit. =20th row:= k8. purl to last st. k1. =21st row:= k1. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 7 sts. k7. repeat from 18th to 20th row once.** change to no. 10 needles =(=_36--no. 9 needles_=)= =(=_38--no. 8 needles_=)= and repeat from ** to ** once, then from ** to 21st row once. =next row:= k8. purl to end of row. cast on 54 sts. for sleeve. proceed:***=1st row:= knit. =2nd row:= k8. purl to last 12 sts. k12. change to no. 10 needles =(=_36--no. 9 needles_=)= =(=_38--no. 8 needles_=)= and proceed:=3rd row:= k12. *inc. 1. st. in next st. inc. 2 sts. in next st. repeat from * to last 8 sts. k8. 245 sts. on needle. =4th row:= knit. =5th row:= k12. purl to last 8 sts. k8. =6th row:= knit. =7th row:= k12. purl to last 8 sts. turn. =8th row:= knit to last 12 sts. turn. =9th row:= purl to last 8 sts. k8. repeat 4th to 9th row once, then 4th to 6th row once. change to no. 12 needles =(=_36--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_38--no. 10 needles_=)= and proceed:=19th row:= k12. *k2tog. k3tog. repeat from * to last 8 sts. k8. 110 sts. on needle. =20th row:= k8. purl to last 12 sts. k12. =21st row:= knit. =22nd row:= k8. purl to last 12 sts. k12. =23rd row:= k13. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 7 sts. k7. =24th row:= k8. purl to last 12 sts. k12.*** repeat from *** to *** twice. =next row:= knit to last 20 sts. slip these 20 sts. onto st. holder. work on remaining 90 sts. as follows:=1st row:= k1. purl to last 12 sts. k12. change to no. 10 needles =(=_36--no. 9 needles_=)= =(=_38--no. 8 needles_=)= and proceed:=2nd row:= k12. *inc. 1. st. in next st. inc. 2 sts. in next st. repeat from * to last 2 sts. inc. 1. st. in next st. k1. 205 sts. on needle. =3rd row:= knit. =4th row:= k12. purl to last st. k1. repeat 3rd and 4th rows once. =7th row:= knit to last 12 sts. turn. =8th row:= purl to last st. k1. repeat from 3rd to 8th row once, the 3rd and 4th rows once, then 3rd row once. change to no. 12 needles =(=_36--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_38--no. 10 needles_=)= and proceed:=18th row:= k12. *k2tog. k3tog. repeat from * to last 3 sts. k2tog. k1. 90 sts. on needle. =19th row:= k1. purl to last 12 sts. k12. =20th row:= knit. =21st row:= k1. purl to last 12 sts. k12. =22nd row:= k13. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last st. k1. =23rd row:= k1. purl to last 12 sts. k12. =24th row:= knit to end of row. cast on 27 sts. working sts. of right front onto end of same needle, knit to end of row. 207 sts. on needle. =25th row:= k12. purl to last 12 sts. k12. change to no. 10 needles =(=_36--no. 9 needles_=)= =(=_38--no. 8 needles_=)= and proceed:=1st row:= k12. *inc. 1. st. in next st. inc. 2 sts. in next st. repeat from * to last 13 sts. inc. 1. st. in next st. k12. 481 sts. on needle. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= k12. purl to last 12 sts. k12. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows once. =6th row:= knit to last 12 sts. turn. =7th row:= purl to last 12 sts. turn. repeat from 2nd to 7th row once, the 2nd and 3rd rows once, then 2nd row once. change to no. 12 needles =(=_36--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_38--no. 10 needles_=)= and proceed:=17th row:= k12. *k2tog. k3tog. repeat from * to last 14 sts. k2tog. k12. 207 sts. on needle. =18th row:= k12. purl to last 12 sts. k12. =19th row:= knit. =20th row:= k12. purl to last 12 sts. k12. =21st row:= k13. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 12 sts. k12. repeat 18th and 19th rows once. =24th row:= k12. purl to last 12 sts. k12. repeat from 1st. to 24th row twice, then 1st. to 17th row once. proceed:=1st row:= cast off 54 sts. purl to last 12 sts. k12. =2nd row:= cast off 54 sts. knit to end of row. =3rd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =4th row:= k1. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to end of row. =5th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =6th row:= knit. =7th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. change to no. 10 needles =(=_36--no. 9 needles_=)= =(=_38--no. 8 needles_=)= and proceed: (_continued on page 55_) [illustration: (_left_)--"=nan="--_see page 58._ (_above_)--"=nanette="--_see page 60._ (_right_)--"=jacqueline="--_see page 57._ (_below_)--"=jack="--_see page 57._] =baby's jacket=--"=nanette="--_illustrated on page 59_ materials: =4 ply miss canada andalusian=. 3 ozs. blue no. 230. 3 stitch holders. 2 buttons. two no. 12 and two no. 10 beehive knitting needles. =(=_6 mos.--two no. 11 and two no. 9_=)= =(=_9 mos.--two no. 10 and two no. 8_=)=. measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= width all round at underarm 18 ins. 19 ins. 19-1/2 ins. length from top of shoulder 7-1/2 " 8 " 8-1/2 " length of sleeve underarm seam 4 " 4-1/4 " 4-1/2 " tension: 8 sts. and 10 rows = 1 inch with no. 10 needles. 7-1/2 " " 9 " = 1 " " no. 9 " 7 " " 9 " = 1 " " no. 8 " =the instructions are written for size 3 mos. for 6 mos. size use no. 11 and no. 9 needles. for 9 mos. size use no. 10 and no. 8 needles and follow same instructions.= =the purled side is the right side of the work.= right front: with no. 12 needles =(=_6 mos.--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_9 mos.--no. 10 needles_=)= cast on 30 sts. loosely. knit 9 rows garter st. **change to no. 10 needles =(=_6 mos--no. 9 needles_=)= =(=_9 mos.--no. 8 needles_=)= and proceed:=1st row:= k8. *inc. 2 sts. in next st. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to last 2 sts. inc. 2 sts. in next st. k1. 62 sts. on needle. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= k8. purl to last st. k1. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows once. =6th row:= knit to last 8 sts. turn. =7th row:= purl to last st. k1. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows once, then 2nd row once. change to no. 12 needles =(=_6 mos.--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_9 mos.--no. 10 needles_=)= and proceed:=11th row:= k8. *k3tog. k2tog. repeat from * to last 4 sts. k3tog. k1. 30 sts. on needle. =12th row:= k1. purl to last 8 sts. k8. =13th row:= k8. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to end of row. =14th row:= k1. purl to last 8 sts. k8. =15th row:= knit. =16th row:= as 14th row.** repeat from ** to ** once, then from ** to end of 13th row casting on 26 sts. for sleeve at end of last row. 56 sts. on needle. proceed:***=1st row:= k8. purl to last 8 sts. k8. =2nd row:= knit. 3rd row: as 1st. row. change to no. 10 needles =(=_6 mos.--no. 9 needles_=)= =(=_9 mos--no. 8 needles_=)= and proceed:=4th row:= k8. *inc. 2 sts. in next st. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to last 8 sts. k8. 116 sts. on needle. =5th row:= knit. =6th row:= k8. purl to last 8 sts. k8. repeat 5th and 6th rows once. =9th row:= knit to last 8 sts. turn. =10th row:= purl to last 8 sts. turn. =11th row:= knit. =12th row:= k8. purl to last 8 sts. k8. repeat 5th row once. change to no. 12 needles =(=_6 mos.--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_9 mos.--no. 10 needles_=)= and proceed:=14th row:= k8. *k3tog. k2tog. repeat from * to last 8 sts. k8. 56 sts. on needle. =15th row:= k8. purl to last 8 sts. k8. =16th row:= k8. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 8 sts. k8.*** repeat from *** to *** once, then 1st. and 2nd rows once. =next row:= k8. purl to last 14 sts. slip these sts. onto safety pin. change to no. 10 needles =(=_6 mos.--no. 9 needles_=)= =(=_9 mos.--no. 8 needles_=)= and working on remaining 42 sts. proceed:=1st row:= k1. *inc. 1. st. in next st. inc. 2 sts. in next st. repeat from * to last 9 sts. inc. 1. st. in next st. k8. 91 sts. on needle. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= k1. purl to last 8 sts. k8. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows once, then 2nd row once. =7th row:= k1. purl to last 8 sts. turn. =8th row:= knit. repeat 3rd then 2nd row once. change to no. 12 needles =(=_6 mos.--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_9 mos.--no. 10 needles_=)= and proceed:=11th row:= k1. *k2tog. k3tog. repeat from * to last 10 sts. k2tog. k8. 42 sts. on needle. =12th row:= k8. purl to last st. k1. =13th row:= k2. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 8 sts. k8. =14th row:= k8. purl to last st. k1. leave these sts. on st. holder until left front has been worked. left front: with no. 12 needles =(=_6 mos.--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_9 mos.--no. 10 needles_=)= cast on 30 sts. loosely. knit 9 rows garter st. **change to no. 10 needles =(=_6 mos.--no. 9 needles_=)= =(=_9 mos.--no. 8 needles_=)= and proceed:=1st row:= k1. *inc. 2 sts. in next st. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to last 9 sts. inc. 2 sts. in next st. k8. 62 sts. on needle. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= k1. purl to last 8 sts. k8. repeat 2nd row once. =5th row:= k1. purl to last 8 sts. turn. =6th row:= knit. =7th row:= as 3rd row. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows once, then 2nd row once. change to no. 12 needles =(=_6 mos.--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_9 mos.--no. 10 needles_=)= and proceed:=11th row:= k1. *k3tog. k2tog. repeat from * to last 11 sts. k3tog. k8. 30 sts. on needle. =12th row:= k8. purl to last st. k1. =13th row:= k1. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 7 sts. k7. =14th row:= k8. purl to last st. k1. =15th row:= knit. =16th row:= as 14th row.** repeat from ** to ** once, then from ** to end of 14th row casting on 26 sts. for sleeve at end of last row. 56 sts. on needle. proceed:***=1st row:= knit. =2nd row:= k8. purl to last 8 sts. k8. change to no. 10 needles =(=_6 mos.--no. 9 needles_=)= =(=_9 mos.--no. 8 needles_=)= and proceed:=3rd row:= k8. *inc. 1. st. in next st. inc. 2 sts. in next st. repeat from * to last 8 sts. k8. 116 sts. on needle. =4th row:= knit. =5th row:= k8. purl to last 8 sts. k8. =6th row:= as 4th row. =7th row:= k8. purl to last 8 sts. turn. =8th row:= knit to last 8 sts. turn. =9th row:= purl to last 8 sts. k8. repeat 4th and 5th rows once, then 4th row once. change to no. 12 needles =(=_6 mos.--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_9 mos.--no. 10 needles_=)= and proceed:=13th row:= k8. *k2tog. k3tog. repeat from * to last 8 sts. k8. 56 sts. on needle. =14th row:= k8. purl to last 8 sts. k8. =15th row:= k9. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 7 sts. k7. =16th row:= k8. purl to last 8 sts. k8.*** repeat from *** to *** once. =next row:= knit to last 14 sts. slip these 14 sts. onto safety pin. working on remaining 42 sts. proceed:=1st row:= k1. purl to last 8 sts. k8. change to no. 10 needles =(=_6 mos.--no. 9 needles_=)= =(=_9 mos.--no. 8 needles_=)= and proceed:=2nd row:= k8. *inc. 1. st. in next st. inc. 2 sts. in next st. repeat from * to last 2 sts. inc. 1. st. in next st. k1. 91 sts. on needles. =3rd row:= knit. =4th row:= k8. purl to last st. k1. =5th row:= knit. =6th row:= k8. purl to last st. k1. =7th row:= knit to last 8 sts. turn. =8th row:= purl to last st. k1. repeat 5th and 6th rows once, then 5th row once. change to no. 12 needles =(=_6 mos.--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_9 mos.--no. 10 needles_=)= and proceed:=12th row:= k8. *k2tog. k3tog. repeat from * to last 3 sts: k2tog. k1. 42 sts. on needle. =13th row:= k1. purl to last 8 sts: k8. =14th row:= k9. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last st: k1. =15th row:= k1. purl to last 8 sts. k8. =16th row:= knit to end of row. cast on 21 sts. working 42 sts. of right front onto end of same needle, knit to end of row. 105 sts. on needle. =next row:= k8. purl to last 8 sts. k8. change to no. 10 needles =(=_6 mos.--no. 9 needles_=)= =(=_9 mos.--no. 8 needles_=)= and proceed:=1st row:= k8. *inc. 1. st. in next st. inc. 2 sts. in next st. repeat from * to last 9 sts. inc. 1. st. in next st. k8. 238 sts. on needle. =2nd row:= knit. =3rd row:= k8. purl to last 8 sts. k8. repeat 2nd row once. =5th row:= k8. purl to last 8 sts. turn. =6th row:= knit to last 8 sts. turn. =7th row:= purl to last 8 sts. k8. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows once, then 2nd row once. change to no. 12 needles =(=_6 mos.--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_9 mos.--no. 10 needles_=)= and proceed:=11th row:= k8. *k2tog. k3tog. repeat from * to last 10 sts. k2tog. k8. 105 sts. on needle. =12th row:= k8. purl to last 8 sts. k8. =13th row:= k9. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to last 8 sts. k8. =14th row:= k8. purl to last 8 sts. k8. =15th row:= knit. =16th row:= as 14th row. repeat from 1st. to 11th row. proceed:=1st row:= cast off 26 sts. purl to last 8 sts. k8. =2nd row:= cast off 26 sts. k1. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to end of row. 53 sts. on needle. =3rd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =4th row:= knit. =5th row:= as 3rd row. change to no. 10 needles =(=_6 mos.--no. 9 needles_=)= =(=_9 mos.--no. 8 needles_=)= and proceed:=6th row:= k1. *inc. 2 sts. in next st. inc. 1. st. in next st. repeat from * to last 2 sts. inc. 2 sts. in next st. k1. 130 sts. on needle. =7th row:= knit. =8th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat 7th and 8th rows 3 times, then 7th row once. change to no. 12 needles =(=_6 mos.--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_9 mos.--no. 10 needles_=)= and proceed: (_continued on page 61_) =crocheted bottle cover=--for 8 oz. bottle. _illustrated on cover_ materials: =2 ply beehive fingering=. 1 oz. one no. 3 steel crochet hook. (american gauge). length of ribbon. tension: 6 star sts. = 1 inch. 5 rounds = 1 inch. starting at bottom ch. 28 sts. join in round with s.s. =1st round:= insert hook in same place as s.s. draw up loop. (insert hook in next ch. and draw up loop) 3 times. w.o.h. and draw through all 5 loops on hook. ch. 1. (this makes 1. star st.). *insert hook in single loop of the ch. 1. and draw up loop. insert hook under last loop of star st. and draw up loop. insert hook in same ch. as last loop of previous star st. and draw up loop. insert hook in next ch. and draw up loop. w.o.h. and draw through all 5 loops on hook. ch. 1. repeat from * around ch. 25 star sts. in round. =2nd round:= insert hook in single loop of ch. 1. just worked and draw up loop. insert hook under last loop of previous star st. and draw up loop. insert hook in same ch. as last loop of previous star st. and draw up loop. insert hook in ch. 1. of next star st. and draw up loop. w.o.h. and draw through all 5 loops on hook. ch. 1. (this completes 1st. star st. of 2nd round). *insert hook in ch. 1. just worked and draw up loop. insert hook under last loop of previous star st. and draw up loop. insert hook in same place as last loop of previous star st. and draw up loop. insert hook in top loop of star st. of previous round and draw up loop. w.o.h. and draw through all 5 loops on hook. ch. 1. (this increases 1 star st.). work 2 star sts. in same manner as 1st. star st. of 2nd round. repeat from * to end of round. 34 star sts. in round. continue even in star st. working 1. star st. over each star st. until work measures 5-1/2 ins. from beginning. s.s. to top loop of next star st. proceed:=to make edging:= =1st round:= *ch. 5. miss 1. star st. 1. s.c. in top loop of next star st. repeat from * to end of round. =2nd round:= s.s. to centre of next loop. *ch. 5. 1. s.c. in next loop. repeat from * to end of round. =3rd round:= s.s. to centre of next loop. *ch. 3. 1. d.c. in next loop. ch. 3. 1. s.c. in 1st. ch. of ch. 3. just worked. (this makes a picot). 1. d.c. in loop where last d.c. was worked. picot. 1. d.c. in same loop. ch. 3. 1. s.c. in next loop. repeat from * to end of round. fasten off. thread ribbon through 2nd round of loops and tie. "=nanette=" (_continued from page 60_) =16th row:= k1. *k3tog. k2tog. repeat from * to last 4 sts. k3tog. k1. 53 sts. on needle. =17th row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. =18th row:= k1. *wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat from * to end of row. repeat from 3rd to 18th row once, then from 3rd to 16th row once. knit 9 rows garter st. cast off loosely. neckband: with no. 12 needles =(=_6 mos.--no. 11 needles_=)= =(=_9 mos.--no. 10 needles_=)= and right side of work facing, beginning at right front, slip the 14 sts. from safety pin onto a needle. join wool and using same needle pick up and knit 6 sts. along side of neck. pick up and knit 21 sts. across back of neck. pick up and knit 6 sts. along other side of neck and 14 sts. from safety pin of left front. 61 sts. on needle. knit 3 rows garter st. =4th row:= (buttonholes). k2. wl. fwd. k2tog. knit to last 4 sts. k2tog. wl. fwd. k2. knit 2 rows. cast off loosely. make up as given for "nan", see page 55. =baby's lacey kimona= _illustrated on cover_ materials: =2 ply beehive fingering=. 5 ozs. blue, no. 188. 1 yd. ribbon 1 inch wide. 2 safety pins. =for needles and tension see page 5.= measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= width all round at underarm 25 ins. 26 ins. 26-1/2 ins. length from top of shoulder 25 " 25-1/2 " 25-1/2 " length of sleeve underarm seam 5-1/2 " 6 " 7 " pattern: =1st row:= k1. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k1. *wl. fwd. k1. sl. 1, k1. p.s.s.o. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k1. repeat from * to last 4 sts. wl. fwd. k1. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k1. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. back: cast on 212 sts. work 6 ins. even in pattern ending with 2nd pattern row. keeping continuity of pattern dec. 1. st. each end of needle next and every following 3rd row to 116 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until work measures 21 ins. from beginning ending with 2nd pattern row. =to shape armholes:= keeping continuity of pattern cast off 2 sts. beginning next 2 rows, then dec. 1. st. each end of needle every alternate row to 94 sts. on needle. continue even until armhole from first shaping measures 2-3/4 ins. =(=_6 mos.--3-1/4 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--3-1/4 ins._=)= ending with 2nd pattern row. =to shape neck:= work 36 sts. in pattern. cast off 22 sts. work remaining 36 sts. in pattern. continue in pattern on these 36 sts. casting off 2 sts. at neck edge every alternate row to 28 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until armhole from first shaping measures 3-3/4 ins. =(=_6 mos.--4-1/4 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--4-1/4 ins._=)=. =next row:= (k2tog.) twice. pass 1st. st. over 2nd. *k2tog. pass 1st. st. over 2nd. repeat from * to end of row. join wool at neck edge and work other side to correspond. left front: cast on 106 sts. =1st row:= k1. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k1. *wl. fwd. k1. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k1. repeat from * 11 times. wl. fwd. k1. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. (p1. k1) 7 times. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. repeat these 2 rows until work measures 6 ins. from beginning. keeping continuity of pattern dec. 1. st. at side edge on next and every following 3rd row to 58 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until work measures 21 ins. from beginning ending at side edge. =to shape armhole:= keeping continuity of pattern, cast off 2 sts. once, then dec. 1. st. every alternate row to 47 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until armhole from first shaping measures 2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--2-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--2-1/2 ins._=)= ending at front edge. work 14 border sts. slip these sts. onto a safety pin. work across remaining sts. dec. 1. st. at neck edge every alternate row to 28 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern until armhole from first shaping measures 3-3/4 ins. =(=_6 mos.--4-1/4 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--4-1/4 ins._=)=. cast off as given for back. right front: cast on 106 sts. =1st row:= (k1. p1) 7 times. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k1. *wl. fwd. k1. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k2tog. k1. wl. fwd. k1. repeat from * 11 times. wl. fwd. k1. sl. 1. k1. p.s.s.o. k1. =2nd row:= k1. purl to last st. k1. continue to correspond to left front being careful to have all shapings for opposite side. sleeves: cast on 54 sts. work 1 inch ribbing (k1. p1). =next row:= rib 11 sts. inc. 1. st. in each of next 32 sts. rib 11 sts. 86 sts. on needle. continue even in pattern as given for back until sleeve from beginning measures 5-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--6 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--7 ins._=)=. keeping continuity of pattern cast off 3 sts. beginning every row to 56 sts. on needle. cast off. neckband: sew shoulder seams. with right side of work facing pick up 14 sts. from safety pin of right front. pick up and knit 67 sts. along neck edge and the 14 sts. from safety pin of left front. 95 sts. on needle. proceed:=1st row:= k2. *p1. k1. repeat from * to last st. k1. =2nd row:= *k1. p1. repeat from * to last st. k1. =3rd row:= as 1st. row. =4th row:= (eyelets). k1. *wl. fwd. k2tog. p1. k1. repeat from * to last 2 sts. wl. fwd. k2tog. repeat 1st. and 2nd rows once, then 1st. row once. cast off in ribbing. to make up: press all pieces carefully. sew all seams. thread ribbon through eyelets at neck. (=b=) =baby's coat=--_illustrated on page 8_ materials: =2 ply beehive fingering=. 2 ozs. =(=_6 mos.--3 ozs._=)= =(=_9 mos.--3 ozs._=)= white. one no. 1 steel crochet hook. (american gauge). 4 buttons. measurements: =3 mos.= =6 mos.= =9 mos.= width all round at underarm 18 ins. 19 ins. 19-1/2 ins. length from top of shoulder 9 " 10 " 10 " length of sleeve underarm seam 5-1/2 " 6 " 7 " tension: yoke pattern (1. s.c. ch. 1) 9 times = 2 ins. 8 rows = 1 inch. body pattern 2 shells = 1 inch. 3 rows = 1 inch. yoke: beginning at back ch. 65 sts. =(=_6 mos.--69 sts._=)= =(=_9 mos.--71 sts._=)=. =1st row:= 1. s.c. in 3rd ch. from hook. *ch. 1. miss 1. st. 1. s.c. in next st. repeat from * to end of row. ch. 3. turn. =2nd row:= 1. s.c. in 1st space. *ch. 1. miss next s.c. 1. s.c. in next space. repeat from * to end of row, working last s.c. in space made by turning ch. of previous row. ch. 3. turn. repeat 2nd row for 3 ins. =(=_6 mos.--3-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--3-1/2 ins._=)=. =to make neck:= 1. s.c. in 1st space. repeat from * 2nd pattern row 10 times. ch. 3. turn. repeat 2nd row 12 times. ch. 25 sts. for front of neck. =next row:= 1. s.c. in 3rd ch. from hook. repeat from * 1st pattern row 11 times. repeat from * 2nd pattern row to end of row. ch. 3. turn. repeat 2nd row for 1-1/2 ins. =(=_6 mos.--2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--2 ins._=)=, ending at armhole edge. ch. 12 sts. join with s.s. to lower corner of back of yoke for underarm. break wool. join wool at armhole edge. ch. 3. 1. s.c. in 1st space. repeat join. * 2nd pattern row 10 times for other shoulder. repeat 2nd row until this side measures same as other side ending at armhole edge. ch. 12 sts. join with s.s. to lower corner of back of yoke for underarm. break wool. proceed:body of coat: join wool at front edge. ch. 4. 3. d.c. in 1st. space. 1. s.c. in next space. *ch. 3. 3. d.c. in next space. 1. s.c. in next space. (1 shell). repeat from * around coat, working 3 shells at each underarm. ch. 4. turn. =2nd row:= miss the s.c. and 3 d.c. 1. s.c. in 1st. ch. 3. space. *ch. 3. 3. d.c. in same space. 1. s.c. in next ch. 3. space. repeat from * to end of row, working last s.c. in the turning ch. of previous row. ch. 4. turn. =3rd row:= 3. d.c. in 1st. s.c. 1. s.c. in 1st. ch. 3. space. repeat from * 2nd pattern row to end of row. ch. 4. turn. repeat 2nd and 3rd rows for 6 ins. =(=_6 mos.--6-1/2 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--6-1/2 ins._=)=, ending with 2nd row. ch. 3. do not turn. work a row of shells along both front edges and neck. fasten off. sleeves: ch. 39 sts. =(=_6 mos.--45 sts._=)= =(=_9 mos.--45 sts._=)=. work 6 rows in yoke pattern. =next row:= 1. s.c. in 1st. space. *ch. 1. 1. s.c. in same space. (an increase). (ch. 1. miss next s.c. 1. s.c. in next space) 3 times. repeat from * to end of row. 25 spaces in row. =(=_6 and 9 mos.--29 spaces_=)=. ch. 4. turn. =next row:= work in shell pattern to last 3 spaces. ch. 3. 3. d.c. in next space. miss 1. space. 1. s.c. in last space. ch. 4. turn. continue even in shell pattern until sleeve from beginning measures 6-1/4 ins. =(=_6 mos.--6-3/4 ins._=)= =(=_9 mos.--7-3/4 ins._=)=. ch. 4. turn. 1. s.c. in centre d.c. of 1st. shell. ch. 1. 1. s.c. in next space. *ch. 1. 1. s.c. in centre d.c. of next shell. ch. 1. 1. s.c. in next space. repeat from * to end of row. fasten off. to make up: press pieces carefully. sew side seams. sew sleeve seams to within 3/4 inch of top. sew sleeves in armholes. sew buttons to correspond to the shell edges on front of coat as illustrated, using the ch. 3. of the shell pattern for a buttonhole. as the coat is reversible the buttons should be sewn on the left front for a girl, and the right front for a boy. * * * * * =_wear wool and be well_= ultra-violet transmission through fabric made from wool--it is an established fact that the health-giving ultra-violet rays are transmitted to the body with greater power through wool than through either artificial silk or cotton. =use good quality wools and there is no need for washing hand knitted garments before wearing= =_general information_= =check the tension= =the garments in this book are worked to the exact tension given. they are closely knitted to insure a firm fabric that will wear better and keep its shape longer than a loosely knitted fabric. _check your tension._ before beginning your garment take the wool and needles specified. cast on 20 stitches. work 20 rows stocking stitch and compare with the tension given in the instruction. all given tension in beehive instructions is measured over stocking stitch. if your tension is too loose try a size smaller needle. if your tension is too tight try a size larger needle.= =_be sure to work to exact tension given if you want your garment to work to correct size._= =_to press a finished garment_= --for plain, smooth fabric. place all knitted pieces on a thick pad wrong side out. baste to shape and size desired being careful to keep the weave quite straight. cover with a damp bath towel. smooth evenly with a warm iron. remove towel and leave until dry. for raised and fancy patterns. baste into position and cover with a wet towel but _do not press_. pat gently but firmly with the hand. remove towel and leave until dry. =_use the yarn the pattern calls for_= use only patons and baldwins yarns, and beehive knitting needles for any of the garments in this book. =_buy the quantity of yarn the pattern calls for_= at the time you make your initial purchase, making sure it is the one dye lot. this will prevent a disappointment later on when you might find you could not exactly match the colour. =_to change the size_= read carefully the measurements given in the instructions. when enlarging a patterned garment be sure to add enough stitches for a complete pattern. when enlarging a plain garment multiply the stitches required for 1 inch by the number of inches necessary for the extra width. for a smaller size cast on as many less stitches as are required for 1 inch. continue knitting in extra or lesser length to underarm, for armhole and for sleeves. =_washing and drying woollen garments_= =the beauty of your hand knit woollen garments can be easily retained after many washings provided a few simple rules are followed.= =before washing, measure the garment and note measurements carefully.= 1. use good mild soap or soap flakes. dissolve sufficient quantity to make good _lukewarm_ suds. 2. squeeze the suds gently through and through the garment until clean. never rub a woollen garment. keep garment supported by hands when removing from water, because the weight of the wet garment may stretch the yarn. 3. rinse 3 times in clean, lukewarm water, gently squeezing to remove all soap. keep garment supported by hands when removing from water. 4. never let the garment lie wet, but remove all moisture at once by rolling in a clean, thick towel. 5. remove garment from towel, lay on flat surface, easing into original measurement. leave until dry away from extreme heat. do not hang up. 6. non-shrink wools. non-shrink treated yarns may stretch with careless washing, therefore use especial care when washing your non-shrink garments. follow the same instructions _most carefully_ and you will avoid any trouble. =remove all soap. remove all moisture. after washing don't hang up--dry flat!= =_abbreviations_= knitting--k = knit plain. p = purl. p.s.s.o. = pass slip stitch over. w.r.n. = wool round needle. w.o.n. = wool over needle wl. fwd. = wool forward. tog. = together. ins. = inches. dec. = decrease. inc. = increase. t.b.l. = through back of loops. crochet--ch. = chain. s.c. = single crochet. d.c. = double crochet. h.d.c. = half double crochet. tr. = treble. d. tr. = double treble. l. tr. = long treble. h. tr. = half treble. s.s. = slip stitch. w.o.h. = wool over hook. _the star symbol_--*this indicates that the directions immediately following are to be repeated. when directions call for repeating a given number of times, it is understood this is in addition to the original. thus, repeat 3 times means 4 times altogether. _to knit_ "_even_"--the row or work is knitted without increasing or decreasing. _important_: when the instructions read--cast off 2 sts. k2 (or similar sts.) the stitch on the right hand needle after casting off, is counted as 1 stitch. =traduction française des abréviations et points employés= k = tricoter à l'endroit. p = tricoter à l'envers. p.s.s.o. = passer la maille glissée par dessus. w.r.n. = une maille jetée à l'envers. w.o.n. = passer la laine par-dessus l'aiguille. wl. fwd. = une maille jetée à l'endroit. tog. = ensemble. ins. = pouces. dec. = diminuer. inc. = augmenter. t.b.l. = tricoter par derrière la maille. _to knit even_--tricoter sans augmenter ni diminuer. _the star symbol_ (*).--l'astérisque indique que les directions qui suivent doivent être répétées. si on demande de répéter un certain nombre de fois, il est entendu que c'est en plus de l'original, tel que * répéter 3 fois veut dire 4 fois en tout. armhole--emmanchure. neck edge--encolure. cast off--rabattre. garter stitch--point de jarretière, tous les rangs à l'endroit. stocking stitch--point jersey. un rang à l'endroit. un rang à l'envers. moss or seed stitch--1er rang. 1 maille à l'endroit. 1 maille à l'envers. 2e rang. = 1 maille à l'envers vis-à-vis des mailles à l'endroit et 1 maille à l'endroit vis-à-vis des mailles à l'envers. crochet--ch. = chaine. s.c. = simple crochet. d.c. = double crochet. h.d.c. = demi crochet. tr. = triple crochet. d. tr. = double triple. l. tr. = triple crochet (long). h. tr. = demi triple crochet. w.o.h. = passer la laine sur le crochet. =_important_= =the garments given in this book have been carefully worked to the following standard measurements. to obtain the same results use the wools and needles the pattern calls for and work to exact tension given.= age chest sleeve 1st. size coat 17 ins. 5 ins. 3 months 18 " 5-1/2 " 6 months 19 " 6 " 9 months 19-1/2 " 7 " 1 year 20 ins. 7-1/2 ins. 1-1/2 " 20-1/2 " 8-1/2 " 2 " 21 " 9 " =average weight of infant from birth to 1 year= birth--7-1/2 lbs., 3 months--11-1/2 lbs., 6 months--16 lbs., 1 year--20 lbs. corresponding sizes for infants' garments for chest and sleeve as given. =_important note_= =the designs illustrated in this book should fit an average child of the given age. there is, however, such variation of size between one child and another that age is not, of course, a completely accurate guide.= [illustration: cartoon of baby with phone] saturday night press. toronto [illustration: beehive non-shrink baby wool] we are happy to present newly designed garments made from our renowned beehive non-shrink baby wool in this new and bigger edition of beehive for bairns, an important addition to the ever-growing "beehive" series of standard knitting books. baby garments require constant care in washing and for this reason mothers everywhere welcome the non-shrink properties of this new beehive baby wool. =_these standard books should be in every knitter's library_= [illustration: beehive baby wool] [illustration: series no. 23] [illustration: series no. 31] [illustration: series no. 28] [illustration: series no. 35] [illustration: series no. 29] [illustration: series no. 13] [illustration: service woollies] _in case of difficulty write to_ patons & baldwins, limited: toronto 10 * * * * * transcriber's notes obvious punctuation and spelling errors repaired. inconsistent hyphenation has been repaired. italic text is denoted by _underscores_ and bold text by =equal signs=. in ambiguous cases, the text has been left as it appears in the original book. the ladies' work-book containing instructions in knitting, crochet, point-lace, &c. [illustration] london: john cassell, la bell sauvage yard, ludgate hill. list of illustrations. casting on with one needle to cast on with two needles plain knitting the german manner purling to make a stitch to take up stitches to knit two pieces together to form a round to cast off infant's shoe in knitting the tulip-wreath flower-vase mat a woven parasol anti-macassar anti-macassar netted anti-macassar bound couverette for an easy chair or sofa floral anti-macassar ottoman cover music-stool couverette chair cushion toilet-cover in crochet star-pattern d'oyley crochet d'oyley rose d'oyley toilet cover tidy in square crochet arabesque toilet cover in square crochet cover for a hadrot lamp lamp mat candle-lamp mat hand-screen crochet counterpane for a bassinet deep border for bassinet quilt crochet stripe for bed-quilt centre stripe for bed-quilt handkerchief case, for hanging to the head of a bed watchpocket toilet sachet a lady's nightcap a shaving tidy oval tidy for easy chair crochet window-curtain window-curtain window-curtain and stove apron netted window-curtain bread-cloth bread-cloth a spangled wool netted cover for a tea-poy, square work-table, or if drawn together at the top, makes a glittering fire-veil netted anti-macassar short purse, in netting bridal purse, in crochet lady's short purse handsome purse mousquetaire crochet collar raised rose crochet collar point collar point collar, in crochet lounging-cap, in crochet crochet edgings and insertions insertions venetian edging venetian bars edging venetian bars sorrento bars stitches open english lace brabant edging lyons point brussels lace little venetian lace deep point-lace edging collar in spanish rose point handkerchief border, in antique point lace apron in broderie en lacet pincushion cover in point lace pincushion * * * * * the ladies' work book. * * * * * knitting. there is not one art practised by ladies which is more deservedly popular than knitting. it is so easy, requires so little eyesight, and is susceptible of so much ornament, that it merits the attention of every lady; and in giving instructions for acquiring it, we add, also, such admirable diagrams of the various processes, we are sure that no difficulty will be felt in executing any pattern. [illustration: casting on with one needle.] the first process in knitting is known by the term casting on. there are two ways of doing this: with one needle, and with two. our first diagram represents the former process. take the thread between the second and third fingers of the left hand, leaving an end of about a yard for every hundred stitches; pass it round the thumb of that hand, giving it a twist, so as to form a loop. take a knitting-needle in the right hand, insert the point in the loop, and pass the thread from the ball round the needle; then bend the point of the needle through the loop, which tighten, and one stitch will be complete. continue to make loops over the thumb, with the end of thread, and knit them with that from the ball until the proper number is cast on. to cast on with two needles (generally called the spanish method), begin by making a loop on the end of the thread, into which slip the point of one needle, holding it in the left hand. take the other needle in the right hand, and slip its point into the same loop, bring the thread round the point of this needle, and bend the needle towards you, so that the thread forms a loop on it. slip that also on the left needle, without withdrawing it from the right. put the thread round the right again, and repeat the process. [illustration: to cast on with two needles.] plain knitting.--after all the stitches are cast on, hold the needle containing them in the left hand. pass the thread round the little finger of the right hand, _under_ the second and third, and above the point of the first. then take the other needle in the right hand, slip the point in the first stitch, and put the thread round it; bring forward the point of the right-hand needle, so that the thread forms a loop on it. slip the end of the left-hand needle out of the stitch, and a new stitch is knitted. german manner.--the thread, instead of being held by the fingers of the right hand, is passed over and under those of the left. the process otherwise is exactly the same. purling.--begin by bringing the thread in front of the right-hand needle, which slip into a stitch pointing towards you; that is in the reverse of the usual mode (see diagram). put the thread round the point of the needle, still bringing it towards you, bend the needle backwards to form a loop, and withdraw the stitch from the point of the left-hand needle. [illustration: plain knitting.] when knitted and purled stitches occur in the same row, the thread must be brought forward before a purled stitch, and taken back before a knitted one. [illustration: the german manner.] to make a stitch. bring the thread in front, as if for a purled stitch, so that when you knit one the thread will pass over the needle, and will make a hole in the following row. this diagram shows the manner of making three stitches, and any other number could be made, by putting the thread round a proportionate number of times. in the engraving it will be seen that the thread is put twice entirely round the needle; and then brought forward, so that the next knitted stitch will take it over a third time. in doing the next row, knit one, purl one, knit one of these stitches; however many are made, they must be alternately knitted and purled in the next row. when the stitch allowing the made stitches is to be purled, the thread must be entirely passed round the needle, once for every stitch to be made, and brought forward also. [illustration: purling.] [illustration: to make a stitch.] slip stitch.--pass a stitch from the left needle to the right, without knitting it. there are two ways of decreasing: first, by knitting two, three, or more stitches as one, marked in knitting, as k 2 t, k 3 t, etc. secondly, in the following way: slip one stitch, knit-one, pass the slip stitch over: this decreases one stitch. to decrease two; slip one, knit two together, pass the slip stitch over. [illustration: to take up stitches.] a reverse stitch is taken off the left-hand needle, in the reverse way to knitting and purling. in both these, the right-hand needle is inserted in the middle of the stitch, and the point brought out towards you or otherwise. but to make a reverse stitch, you insert the point of the needle in the stitch _at the back of the work_, and bring it forward through the opening in which it generally is inserted. the thread is to be placed round it, as for a purled stitch. [illustration: to knit two pieces together.] to reverse two, three, or more stitches together, insert the needle in them all at once, _from the last to the first_. to take up stitches.--insert the needle in the loop, pass the thread round, and knit it in the usual manner. do not draw out any loop more than can be avoided, while knitting it. to knit two pieces together.--to do this there must be an equal number of stitches on both. [illustration: to form a round.] hold the needles together in the right hand, and knit as usual, inserting the left-hand needle in a loop of each at the same time, and treating the two as one. [illustration: to cast off.] to form a round:--this diagram represents the french manner of performing this process by casting the whole number of stitches on one needle, and then distributing them on three, or perhaps four. but the english mode is to divide the number of stitches, and cast so many on each needle, not withdrawing the last stitch of each needle from the point of the next needle. when all are cast on, the round is made by knitting the _two first_ stitches on to the last needle. four needles are employed for stockings, five for doyleys and other round articles. to cast off:--knit two stitches, insert the point of the left hand needle in the first stitch, and draw it on the other. knit another stitch, and treat these two in the same way. * * * * * infant's shoe, in knitting. materials.--1 ounce of white berlin wool. 1 skein of white, and 1 of embroidery wool, 4 knitting needles, no. 21, and 2, no. 19. with the fine needles cast 30 stitches on one, and 20 on each of two others. join into a round, and purl one round. [illustration: infant's shoe, in knitting] 1st pattern round: x slip 2, taking them off the needle in the same way as if you were going to purl them, but with the wool at the back; knit 3. x repeat all round. 2nd, 3rd, and 4th rounds: the same. 5th and 6th: purl every stitch. 7th to 10th inclusive: x knit 3, slip 2 as before, x repeat all round, 11th and 12th purled. 13th to 16th inclusive: x knit 2, slip 2 as before, knit 1, x repeat all round. 17th and 18th purled. repeat these 18 rounds again. then do the same twice more; but, instead of knitting three stitches, always decrease by knitting two together (once) on the needle that has the thirty stitches in every row which is not plainly purled, until only twelve stitches are left on it. when 72 rounds are done, the boot will be sufficiently long. purl two rounds, divide the whole number of stitches on two needles, taking care that the 12 stitches shall be exactly in the centre of one; then join up the toe by casting off, knitting one stitch from each needle together. now take up the twenty centre stitches of the 70 originally cast on--that is, the twenty middle ones of the thirty that were on one needle, and which were decreased to twelve. knit them backwards and forwards 40 rows. with another needle take up on each edge of this plain knitting 20 more stitches, so that there are 60 altogether. these stitches must be knitted backwards and forwards thus:-1st row: x knit 3, slip 2 as before, x repeat with the last stitch, take up one of the 70 next to the 20. 2nd: slip 2, but as if you were going to knit plain, purl 3. repeat; join on to the 70 at the other end. 3rd: like first. 4th: like 2nd. 5th: purled; join at the end. 6th: knitted; join at the end. 7th: x knit 2, slip 2, knit 1, x join at the end. 8th: x purl 1, slip 2, knit 2, x join as before. 9th: like 7th. 10th: like 8th. 11th: purled. 12th: knitted. 13th: x knit 1, slip 2, knit 2, x join at the end. 14th: x purl 2, slip 2, knit 1, x join. 15th: like 13th. 16th: like 14th. 17th: purled, with join at the end. 18th: knitted. the same. repeat these 18 rows. take up the remaining stitches of the 70, and form the whole into a round for the ankle. purl four rounds. 5th round: x knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, x all round. purl 6 more rounds, and cast off. for the tassels.--plait some wool into a cord, and fasten at each end a tassel of white and pink wool combed out. for the ruche.--cast on five stitches with the coarser needles, and the white embroidery wool. knit and purl the rows alternately, winding the wool six times round two fingers of the left hand at every stitch, and taking up those threads with the stitches. do about ten rows so; then for ten more wind the wool only for the first and last stitches, and the pink for the others of each row. do enough to go twice round the top of each boot. cut the loops, and comb out the wool. sew it round the top of the boot. * * * * * the tulip wreath flower-vase mat. materials.--12 shades of amber, 7 shades of lilac, 4 shades of green. 4 skeins of each colour. 5 steel needles, no. 14. cardboard foundation, covered with white or amber cambric, 8 inches in diameter. for the mat.--knit 4 rounds of each shade of amber, beginning with the lightest. cast on 2 stitches on each of 4 needles; bring the wool forward, knit half the stitches on the first needle; t. f. and k. [footnote: k. means knit; k. 2+ knit two together; p. purl; t. f. thread forward.] the other half; repeat the same on each of the other 3 needles; k. the next round plain; repeat these two rounds until there are 48 stitches on each needle; then cast off, and sew this on the covered cardboard foundation. for the tulips.--5 tulips to be knitted in 7 shades of amber, and 5 in 7 shades of lilac; 4 rounds to be knitted of each shade; 4 needles. cast on 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; t.f. at the commencement of each needle; k. 1 plain round; purl a round, increasing at commencement of each needle. repeat these two rounds till there are 22 stitches on each of the three needles; then first k. 3, k. 2+, k. 1, k. 2+, k. 3; turn the work back, and purl the stitches. [illustration: the tulip wreath flower-vase mat.] 3rd: k. 2, k. 2+, k. 1, k. 2+, k. 2. 4th: turn back and purl. 5th: k. 2, k. 2+, k. 1, k. 2+, k 2. 6th: turn back and purl. 7th: k. 1, k. 3+, k. 1. 8th: purl. 9th: k. 3+. 20 tulips will be required. the leaves (10 of which will be necessary).--4 shades of green, 12 rows of each; 2 needles. cast on 3 stitches; k. plain, till before the centre stitch; t.f. and k. the centre stitch; t.f., k. the remainder plain; p. the next row; repeat these 2 rows, till there are 12 open stitches up the vein of the leaf; then k. 1, k. 2+, k. plain, till 2 from the centre stitch; then k. 2+, t.f., k. 1, t.f., k. 2+, k. plain, till 3 from the end; then k. 2+, k. 1; p. the next row; repeat till there are 8 more open stitches, that is, 20 from the beginning; then k. 2+ at the beginning and end of every other row, till the last ends in a point. now sew the leaves round the mat by the part where the stem should be; then sew the tulips on as in engraving, sewing the leaf about 6 rows from the point on the stem of the tulip. * * * * * [illustration: a woven parasol.] * * * * * crochet. * * * * * the stitches used in crochet are, _chain, slip, single, double, treble, and long treble crochet_. to make a chain, form a loop on the thread, insert the hook in it, and draw the thread in another loop through this. continue this to form a succession of stitches. slip-stitch is made by drawing a thread _at once_ through any given stitch and the loop which is on the needle. single crochet (written s.c.)--having a loop on the needle, insert the hook in a stitch, and draw the thread through in a loop. you then have two on the hook; draw the thread through both at once. double crochet (d.c.)--twist the thread round the hook before inserting it in the stitch, through which you draw the thread in a loop. three loops being then on the needle, draw the thread through two, and then through the one just formed and the remaining one. treble crochet (t.c.) and long treble (long t.c.) are worked in the same manner; in the former the thread is put _twice_, in the latter _three times_, round the hook, before inserting it into the stitch. to join leaves.--when one part of a leaf, flower, etc., is to be joined to another, drop the loop from your hook, which insert in the place to be joined; draw the loop through and continue working. to pass from one round to another without breaking the thread.--in working mats and many similar articles this is very desirable. having finished one round, see whether a s.c., d.c., or t.c. stitch begins the next; for s.c. make one chain, for d.c. three, for t.c. four; slip the needle out, and twist the chain, then continue working. this twisted chain will have all the appearance of a d.c. or t.c. stitch. should the round not begin exactly in the same place, slip-stitch to the part where it commences, as it will seldom be more than a few stitches in advance. square crochet is a term often used, and generally understood, as the engraved patterns are mostly in it. lest, however, any of our readers should not be familiar with the name, we will explain it. the squares are either open or close. an open square consists of one d.c., two ch.--missing two on the line beneath, before making the next stitch. a close square has three successive d.c. thus, any given number of close squares, followed by an open, will have so many times three d.c., and _one over_; and any foundation made for a pattern to be worked in square crochet will have a number of chains divisible by three, leaving one over. to contract an edge.--in forming leaves and many other things, this is very useful. it can be done in d.c., t.c., or long t.c. having twisted the thread round the needle as often as the stitch may require, insert it in the work, and half-do a stitch. instead of completing it, again twist the thread round, until the same number of loops are on, and work a stitch completely. thus, for two stitches taken in the work, there is only one head. this being successively repeated materially contracts an edge. to join on a thread.--avoid joins in open work as much as possible. in close work, whether d.c. or s.c., they will not be perceived. finish the stitch by drawing the new thread through, allowing a couple of inches for both ends, which you hold in. to work with several colours.--hold the threads not in use along the edge of the work, and work them in. when the colour is to be changed, begin the stitch with the old colour, and complete it with the new, which continue to work with, holding the other in. if only one stitch of a colour is to be used, you finish one stitch, and begin the next with it; then change. colours are seldom intermixed, except in solid work, such as the ends of purses, mats worked over cord, and the like. to work over cord.--hold it in the left hand, with the work, and work round it, as you would if it were merely an end of thread. the stitches must, however, be sufficiently close to cover it entirely. to work with beads.--beads must be first threaded on the silk, or other material, and then dropped, according to the pattern, on what is usually thought the wrong side of the work. this side presents a more even appearance than the other. it follows that when bead purses are worked from an engraving, they are worked the reverse of the usual way--namely, from right to left. the marks used in crochet receipts.--these are very simple when understood. they are printers' marks--asterisks, crosses, daggers, and sometimes one or two others. they are used to mark repetitions, and save space. the principal thing to observe is, that in every row or round, if _one_ of any kind is used, a second, _similar_ one, is sure to be found; and that the repetition occurs between the two, however far distant apart. suppose a row of a pattern to be written thus:--x 2 d.c., 4 ch., miss 4, * 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, * three times, 5 d.c., x, * twice; it would, at full length, be--2 d.c., 4 ch., miss 4, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 2 d.c., 4 ch., miss 4, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c. it will be seen that one repetition often occurs _within another_, as in the stitches between the asterisks. another mode of shortening receipts can be used only where a row has a centre both sides of which correspond; the latter being the same as the former, worked _backwards_. then the letters _b, a_, are used, to mark that in the latter part of the row you reverse the instructions. _b_, 7 d.c., 3 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, _a_, 1 d.c. (the centre stitch), would be, 7 d.c., 3 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., miss 1, 2 ch., 1 d.c., miss 2, 3 ch., 7 d.c. these letters and the printers' marks are equally used in knitting. it is easy to see how much space is gained by the use of these abbreviations, a knowledge of which is easily acquired. probably many of our friends are already familiar with the substance of this preliminary lesson; but as daily experience convinces us that many are still ignorant of the principles of crochet, we trust the good-nature of the adepts will lead them to excuse this occupation of a page, in consideration of the benefit it will be to their less fortunate friends. one word on the implement termed a crochet-hook. it should not be sharp or pointed, either in the point or barb, but smooth, and quite free from any angularity that can catch the silk. cheap and common crochet-hooks are in the end the dearest, as they break cotton, ravel silk, wear out the patience, and prick the finger. they should be of the best steel, highly polished, and firmly fixed in ivory handles. those we use have been made at our recommendation, and have the _size_ engraved on every handle. this saves the tiresome and uncertain reference to a gauge. these hooks are termed "_tapered, indented_" crochet-hooks. * * * * * anti-macassar. materials.--four reels of brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton, no. 8, 1 ditto, no. 4, 4 ounces of turquoise blue beads. the anti-macassar of which we give a representation in the engraving is intended to fit the top of a library chair. one half only is seen. a similar piece of crochet is to be made and sewed to it, the two forming a sort of bag, which is slipped over the back of the chair. it is a great improvement on the old-fashioned anti-macassar, as it is not liable to be displaced. a border is added to the front of it, the pattern of which is made in beads (in the style of the bassinet quilt, page 24). this, from its weight, serves to keep the anti-macassar from shifting, and is finished with a handsome fringe. spotted muslin, or any similar material, may be used for the back of the anti-macassar, instead of crochet, for those who would prefer saving themselves the trouble of working the second piece. [illustration: anti-macassar.] the upper part may be worked from the engraving, being done in square crochet, for which we have already given full directions. make a chain of 277 stitches. do one row of double crochet; then work from the engraving, beginning with that row which is in open square crochet, except the first and last squares, which are close. when you come to the diminished part, begin the row thus:--miss 1, slip on the 2nd, single crochet on the 3rd, double crochet on the 4th. reverse the process at the end of the row. this diminishes the row one square at each end. some few rows narrow the squares at each end. in that case miss 4 at the beginning and end, instead of one. work in the ends as you go on. this part of the anti-macassar uses three reels of cotton. thread the blue beads on the 4th, no. 8 reel, and work the borders. begin by a row of single crochet on the _wrong_ side, on the foundation chain. all the subsequent rows are done on the same side. begin every row with two plain stitches, beside those in the pattern. 1st pattern row: x 2 plain, 2 beads, 5 plain, 2 beads, 14 plain x repeat to the end in this and every future row. 2nd: x 1 plain, 1 bead, 2 plain, 3 beads, 1 plain, 3 beads, 14 plain x. 3rd: x 1 plain, 1 bead, 2 plain, 1 bead, 2 plain, 3 beads, 15 plain x. 4th: x 2 plain, 7 beads, 1 plain, 1 bead, 14 plain x. 5th: x 4 plain, 4 beads, 3 plain, 1 bead, 13 plain x. 6th: x 4 plain, 4 beads, 4 plain, 1 bead, 12 plain x. 7th: x 3 plain, 6 beads, 3 plain, 1 bead, 5 plain, 4 beads, 3 plain x. 8th: x 2 plain, 3 beads, 2 plain, 3 beads, 2 plain, 1 bead, 6 plain, 5 beads, 1 plain x. 9th: x 1 plain, 3 beads, 4 plain, 3 beads, 1 plain, 1 bead, 7 plain, 5 beads x. 10th: x 1 plain, 2 beads, 6 plain, 3 beads, 8 plain, 3 beads, 2 plain x. 11th: x 10 plain, 3 beads, 7 plain, 1 bead, 1 plain, 1 bead, 2 plain x. 12th: x 9 plain, 1 bead, 1 plain, 3 beads, 1 plain, 3 beads, 4 plain, 1 bead, 2 plain x. 13th: x 8 plain, 1 bead, 3 plain, 3 beads, 3 plain, 1 bead, 2 plain, 2 beads, 2 plain x. 14th: x 8 plain, 1 bead, 4 plain, 3 beads, 5 plain, 2 beads, 2 plain, x. 15th: x 8 plain, 1 bead, 3 plain, 1 bead, 1 plain, 3 beads, 3 plain, 3 beads, 2 plain x. 16th: x 9 plain, 3 beads, 3 plain, 3 beads, 2 plain, 3 beads, 2 plain x. 17th: x 16 plain, 6 beads, 3 plain, x. 18th: x 6 plain, 1 bead, 10 plain, 5 beads, 3 plain x. 19th: x 6 plain, 3 beads, 8 plain, 5 beads, 3 plain x. 20th: x 6 plain, 6 beads, 3 plain, 7 beads, 3 plain x. 21st: x 6 plain, 5 beads, 2 plain, 10 beads, 2 plain x. * * * * * anti-macassar. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton, no. 24. this anti-macassar must be begun on the line of d.c., forming one end. make a chain of the required number of stitches, including the borders, and work the whole anti-macassar, except the border which is at the one end, below the foundation chain, which must be done last of all. or the centre can be done entirely first, and the border worked all round afterwards, increasing at the corners. we, however, recommend the former method. this pattern is extremely well adapted for darning on square netting. in that case the netting may be done in brooks' knitting cord, no. 60, and the darning in embroidery cotton, no. 70. the centre only can be done thus--a netted border must trim it. [illustration: anti-macassar.] * * * * * netted anti-macassar. [illustration: netted anti-macassar.] materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head knitting cord, no. 40, and embroidering goat's-head cotton, no. 70; mesh, one-third of an inch wide. this anti-macassar is done in the fashionable style of netting, with a pattern darned on it after it is worked. make a foundation, on which work sixty-seven stitches. repeat these, backwards and forwards, until a square is done, of as many holes up the sides as along the width. remove the foundation, and add either a crochet-bead border all round, or a netted one. the bead border makes the shape more solid; the netted one is certainly lighter, and the following is very pretty:-with a mesh three times the size of that used for the square do one entire round, with three stitches in one at the corners. 2nd round: with the small mesh. miss the first stitch, net the second, then the missed one, repeat all round. 3rd: x net a stitch of each of seven stitches, miss one stitch of the last round, x repeat all round. observe, before doing this round, count the number of stitches; if they cannot be divided by eight, add at the corners as many as may be required. supposing there are so many eights and five over, then three more will be wanted, and one must be added (by doing two in one) in each of the three corners. 4th: x 6 over seven, miss the long stitch, x repeat. 5th: x 5 over six, missing as before, x repeat. 6th: x 4 over five, as before, x repeat. 7th: x 3 over four, as before, x repeat. 8th: x 2 over three, as before, x repeat. before darning netting, wash it perfectly clean, stiffen it by dipping it into a little gum-water, and pin it out on a pillow, in the proper form, to dry. then darn it with embroidery cotton, every square of the pattern being closely filled up. * * * * * round couverette for an easy chair or sofa. 1st round: 9 ch., unite; 3 ch., this forms 1 l. stitch; under this circle work 24 l., that is, including the 3 ch., which reckon as "1 l.;" in fastening off this round, simply insert the hook through the 3rd loop of 3 ch., draw the cotton through, cut it off, draw it down at the back, and tie it in a neat and secure knot. 2nd: be careful not to begin in any row in the same place where the previous row was terminated. 2 l. into every loop of last row; there should be 48 l. 3rd: 1 l. into every loop, with 1 ch. between each. 4th and 5th: 1 l. upon every l., with 2 ch. between each. 6th: commence upon a l. stitch, * 2 l. into 1 loop, 5 ch., miss 2 loops, repeat from * 3 times more, then 3 ch., miss 2 loops, 10 l., 3 ch., miss 2 loops, repeat. 7th: * 2 l. into the 3rd loop of the 5 ch.; 5 ch., repeat from * twice more, then 10 l. on l., repeat. 8th: 3 d.c. stitches, the 1st into the 2nd loop of the 5 ch., after the l. stitches, 5 ch., repeat from * 3 times more, 12 l. the 1st into next loop, repeat. 9th: * 3 d.c. the 1st into the 2nd loop of the 1st 5 ch., 5 ch., repeat from * twice more, miss 1 loop, 18 l. the 1st in 2nd loop. 10th: d.c. into the centre loop of the 5 ch., 5 ch., d.c. into centre loop of next 5, 3 ch., 24 l. the 1st on next d.c. stitch, 3 ch., repeat. 11th: 3 d.c. the 1st into 2nd loop of 5 ch., 3 ch., 1 l. on every l., with 1 ch. between each, 3 ch., repeat. 12th: 1 l. on l., 1 ch., repeat over the l. stitches, then 3 ch., 3 d.c. on the 3 d.c., 3 ch., repeat. 13th: 1 l. on l., 1 ch., repeat this over the l. stitches, 7 ch., repeat. 14th: the same. 15th: 1 l., 2 ch. over the l. stitches, then 3 ch., 1 l. into 3rd loop of the 7 ch., 5 ch., miss 1 loop, 1 l. into next loop, 3 ch., repeat. 16th: 7 sq., 6 l., 14 sq., 3 ch., d.c. into centre loop of 5 ch., 3 ch., repeat. 17th: 6 sq., 12 l., 13 sq., 3 ch., 1 l. on d.c. stitch, 3 ch., repeat. [illustration: round couverette for an easy chair or sofa.] 18th: 6 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 ch., d.c. on d.c., 3 ch., repeat. 19th: 6 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 ch., d.c. on d.c., 3 ch., repeat. 20th: 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 ch., d.c. on d.c., 3 ch., repeat. 21st: 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 ch., d.c. into centre loop of 1st 3 ch., 3 ch., d.c. into centre loop of next 3 ch., repeat. 22nd: 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 5 ch., 1 l. into centre loop of centre 3 ch., 5 ch., repeat. 23rd: 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 9 sq., 5 ch., d.c. into centre loop of 1st 5 ch., 5 ch., d.c. into centre loop of 2nd 5 ch., 5 ch., repeat. 24th: 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 10 sq., 7 l., d.c. into centre loop of 2nd 5 ch., 7 ch., repeat. 25th: 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 6 sq., 5 ch., d.c. into centre loop of 7 ch., 5 ch., d.c. into centre loop of 7, 5 ch., repeat. 26th: 7 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 5 ch., d.c. into centre loop of 5, 3 ch., 5 l., with 1 ch. between each, under the next 5 ch., 3 ch., d.c. into centre loop of 5, 5 ch., repeat. 27th: 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 5 ch., d.c. into centre ch. of 5, 3 ch., 11 l. the 1st into 3rd loop of 3 ch., 3 ch., d.c. into 5, 5 ch., repeat. 28th: 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 5 ch., d.c. into centre of 5, 3 ch., 13 l., the 1st into 3rd loop of 3 ch., 3 ch., d.c. into centre of 5, 5 ch., repeat. 29th: 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 5 ch., d.c. into centre loop of 5 ch., 3 ch., 15 l., the 1st into 3rd loop of 3 ch., 3 ch., d.c. into centre loop of 5, 5 ch., repeat. 30th: 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l. 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 5 ch., d.c. into centre loop of 5, 3 ch., 8 l., the 1st into the 3rd loop of the 3 ch., 1 ch., miss 1 loop, 8 l., 3 ch., d.c. into centre of 5 ch., 5 ch., repeat. 31st: 2 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 5 ch., d.c. into centre loop of 5, 3 ch., 8 l., 3 ch., d.c. into centre loop of 3 ch., 3 ch., 8 l., the 1st or 2nd d.c., 3 ch., d.c. into centre loop of 5, 5 ch., repeat. 32nd: 3 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 5 ch., d.c. into centre loop of 5, 3 ch., 9 l., the 1st into 3rd loop of the 3 ch., 3 ch., d.c. on d.c., 5 ch., d.c. into same loop, 3 ch., 9 l., the 1st on next l., 3 ch., d.c. into centre loop of 5, 5 ch., repeat. 33rd: 10 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 5 ch., d.c. on d.c., 3 ch., 8 l., the 1st on 1st l., 3 ch., 5 l., with 1 ch. between each under the 5 ch., 3 ch., 8 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 3 ch., d.c. on d.c., 5 ch., repeat. 34th: 11 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 5 ch., d.c. on d.c., 3 ch., 6 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 3 ch., 9 l., the 1st on next l., 3 ch., 6 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 3 ch., d.c. on d.c., 5 ch., repeat. 35th: 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 5 ch., d.c. on d.c., 4 ch., 4 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 3 ch., 11 l., the 1st into 4th loop, 3 ch., 4 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 4 ch., d.c. on d.c., 5 ch., repeat. 36th: 4 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 5 ch., d.c. on d.c., 5 ch., 2 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 6 ch., 9 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 6 ch., d.c. on d.c., 5 ch., repeat. 37th: 5 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 5 ch., 1 l. on d.c. stitch, 5 ch., 5 l., with 1 ch. between each under the 6 ch., 3 ch., 7 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 3 ch., 5 l., with 1 ch. between each under the 6 ch., 5 ch., d.c. on d.c., 5 ch., repeat. 38th: 7 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 5 ch., 1 l. on l., 5 ch., 9 l., the 1st on next l., 5 ch., 1 l. on l., 5 ch., repeat. 39th: 7 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l, 2 sq., 5 ch., 1 l. on l., 5 ch., 11 l., the 1st into the 5th loop of the 5 ch., 5 ch., 3 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 5 ch., 11 l., the 1st into 6th loop, 5 ch., 1 l. on l., 5 ch., repeat. 40th: 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 5 ch., 1 l. on l., 3 ch., 1 l. into same loop, 5 ch., 11 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 5 ch., d.c. on 2nd l. stitch, 5 ch., 11 l., the 1st into 6th loop, 5 ch., 1 l. on l., 3 ch., 1 l. into same loop, 5 ch., repeat. 41st: 2 sq., 21 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 5 ch., 5 l., with 1 ch. between each, under the 3 ch., 5 ch., 11 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 5 ch., 1 l. on d.c. stitch, 5 ch., 11 l., the 1st into 5th loop, 5 ch., 5 l., with 1 ch., between each, under the 3 ch., 5 ch., repeat. 42nd: 3 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 5 ch., 9 l., the 1st on next l., 5 ch., 11 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 7 ch., 11 l., the 1st into 5th loop of the 5 ch., 5 ch., 9 l., the 1st on next l., 5 ch., repeat. 43rd: 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 2 ch., 1 l., into 3rd loop, this forms another sq., and is reckoned as such in the next rows; 5 ch., 9 l. on the l., 7 ch., 11 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 7 ch., 11 l., the 1st. into 4th loop, 7 ch., 9 l. on the l., 5 ch., 1 l., into 3rd loop, 2 ch., repeat. 44th: 3 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 14 sq., 5 ch., 9 l. on the l., 7 ch., 9 l., the 1st on next l., 3 ch., 9 l., with 1 ch. between each, under the 7 ch., 3 ch., 9 l., the 1st on 3rd l., 7 ch., 9 l. on l., 5 ch., repeat. 45th: 5 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 13 sq., 7 ch., 7 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 7 ch., 9 l., the 1st into 9th loop, 3 ch., 17 l., the 1st on next l., 3 ch., 9 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 7 ch., 7 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 7 ch., repeat. 46th: 5 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 8 sq., 7 ch., 5 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 7 ch., 9 l., the 1st into 8th loop, 3 ch., 15 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 3 ch., 9 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 7 ch., 5 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 7 ch., repeat. 47th: 5 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 21 l., 7 sq., 7 ch., 3 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 7 ch., 8 l., the 1st into 8th loop, 7 ch., 13 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 7 ch., 8 l., the 1st on 3rd l., 7 ch., 3 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 7 ch., repeat. 48th: 6 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 5 ch., 1 l., into 4th loop, 5 ch., 1 l. on 2nd l., 5 ch., 1 l. into 5th loop, 5 ch., 6 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 5 ch., 1 l. into 5th loop, 5 ch., 11 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 5 ch., 1 l. into 5th loop, 5 ch., 6 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 5 ch., 1 l. into 5th loop, 5 ch., 1 l. on 2nd l., 5 ch., 1 l. into 4th loop, 5 ch., repeat. 49th: 10 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 5 ch., 1 l. into centre loop of the 5 ch. for 4 times, 5 ch., 4 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 5 ch., 1 l. into centre loop of 5 twice, 5 ch., 9 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 5 ch, 1 l. into centre loop of 5 ch. twice, 5 ch., 4 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 5 ch., 1 l. into centre of loop of 5, 3 times, 5 ch., repeat. 50th: 10 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 3 sq., 5 ch., 1 l. into centre of each 5, for 5 times, 5 ch., 2 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 5 ch., 1 l. into centre of 5, 3 times, 5 ch., 7 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 5 ch., 1 l. into centre of 5, 3 times, 5 ch., 2 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 5 ch., 1 l. into centre of 5, for 5 times, 5 ch., repeat. 51st: 10 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 5 ch., and 1 l. into centre loop of 5 ch., for 10 times, 5 ch., 5 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 5 ch., 1 l. into centre loop of the 5 ch., for 10 times, 1 ch., repeat. 52nd: 11 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 5 ch., and 1 l. into centre loop of each 5 ch., for 11 times, 5 ch., 3 l., the 1st on 2nd l., 5 ch., and 1 l. into centre loop of 5 ch., 11 times, 5 ch., repeat. 53rd: 10 sq., 33 l., 4 sq., 5 ch., and 1 l. into centre loop of the 5 ch., 5 ch., repeat. 54th: 10 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 ch., 7 l., the 1st on next l., * 4 ch., 1 l. on l., 4 ch., 7 l., the 1st on next l., repeat from * twice more, 4 ch., 7 l., the 1st on next l., 4 ch., 7 l., the 1st on next l., ** 4 ch., 1 l. on l., 4 ch., 7 l., the 1st on next l., repeat from ** twice more, 3 ch., repeat from beginning. 55th: 9 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 6 sq., 3 ch, 7 l., the 1st on next l., * 7 ch., d.c. on the l. stitch, 7 ch., 7 l. on the l., repeat from * twice more, then 4 ch., 7 l. on l., 4 ch., 7 l. on l., ** 7 ch., d.c. on l., 7 ch., 7 l. on l., repeat from ** twice more, 3 ch., repeat. 56th: 9 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 ch., 7 l. on l., * 4 ch., d.c. into 4th loop of 7 ch., 3 ch., d.c. into 4th loop of 7 ch., 5 ch., 7 l. on l., repeat from * twice more, 4 ch., 7 l. on l., 4 ch., 7 l. on l., repeat from the 1st *, then 3 ch., repeat from beginning. 57th: 13 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 ch., 7 l. on l., * 4 ch., 1 l. into 2nd loop of 3 ch., 5 ch., 1 more l. into same loop, 4 ch., 7 l. on l., repeat from * twice more, then 4 ch., 7 l. on l., 4 ch., 7 l. on l., repeat from the 1st * again, 3 ch. then repeat from beginning. 58th: 16 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., now work the same as last row, only making 3 ch. instead of 5. 59th: 16 sq., 3 l., 1 sq. 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., now work the same as last row. 60th: 13 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., now the same as last row. 61st: 8 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., now the same as last row. 62nd: 7 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 3 sq. 3, l., 7 sq., now the same as last row. 63rd: 14 sq., 9 l., 8 sq., now the same as last row. 64th: 25 sq., 3 ch., 7 d.c. over the l., * 3 d.c. under the 3 ch., 5 d.c. under next 3, 3 d.c. under next 3, 7 d.c. over the l., repeat from * twice more, 4 d.c. under the 4 ch., 7 d.c. on the l., 4 d.c. under the 4 ch., 7 d.c. over the l., repeat from the 1st * 3 times, 3 ch., repeat from beginning. 65th: 25 sq., making in these squares 3 ch. instead of 2, then d.c. over the d.c. stitches, 3 ch., repeat. 66th: a row of long stitches all round. fringe.--d.c. into a loop, make * 70 ch., rather loosely, miss loop of last round, d.c. into next loop, repeat from *. * * * * * floral anti-macassar. in square netting and darned. [illustration: floral anti-macassar.] materials.--brooks' goat's-head netting and knitting cotton, no. 36. brooks' embroidering goat's-head cotton, no. 40. rather a fine embroidering needle. steel mesh, no. 12 steel netting needle. work the same number of squares, as in the engraving, by commencing on one stitch, and increasing one at the end of every row till you get sufficient length of one side; and then decrease one at the end of every row by taking two loops into one. then darn according to the engraving. make sufficient number of tassels to go round. wind the cotton over a card three inches wide, cut one end, and draw through the loop of netting, and make four more tassels larger; over a card six inches wide for the corners. six squares measure one inch. * * * * * ottoman cover. in square netting; the pattern diamond. [illustration: ottoman cover.] materials:--brooks' goat's-head netting cotton, nos. 30 and 36; embroidering, no. 40; steel mesh, no. 12, and steel netting needle. for the upper side of the cushion use no. 36 cotton, and commence with one stitch, and make one at the end of every row until you have 83 loops on your mesh; then decrease one at the end of every row until you have only one left; then fasten off; then darn it with embroidering cotton, no. 40, according to the engraving, always taking care that there are the same number of threads in every square, and that the threads all run the same way, making as few breaks in the cotton as possible; in fastening off, or beginning again, always let it be on the under-side, that the ends may not be seen. then for the under-side of the cushion, make another piece exactly similar to the other one in size, but with a thicker cotton, no. 30. the two pieces must then be joined together, and placed upon a cushion stuffed with wool and covered with a dark purple, crimson, or green velvet; the whole afterwards finished with a thick twisted cord in two colours, with massive tassels at the corners to match. * * * * * the pine couvrette, for a music stool, in crochet. materials.--eight reels of brooks' goat's-head crochet cotton, no. 8; crochet hook, no. 18. this couvrette is begun in the centre, and worked round and round, the thread never being broken off but when it is so mentioned in the receipt. make a chain of 6; close it into a round, on which do 8 s.c. stitches. 2nd round: x 1 d.c. under a stitch (taking up both sides of the chain), 2 ch., miss none, x 8 times. close the round with a slip stitch on the first d.c. 3rd: 1 s.c. on every chain stitch, and 2 s.c. on every d.c. in the round. 4th: 3 ch., twist them, and continue as a d.c. stitch; x 3 ch., miss 3, 3 d.c., all on the second of the 2 s.c. worked on one in last row, x 7 times; 3 ch., miss 3, 2 d.c. on last stitch of last row; slip on the top of the three-twisted chain, which completes the round. 5th: begin this and all succeeding rounds with a d.c. stitch, made of 3 ch., x ch., miss 3 ch., 2 d.c. on first d.c., 1 on next, 2 on next, x 7 times; 3 ch., miss 3, 2 d.c. on 1 d.c., 1 d.c. on next; slip on top of the 3 chain that began the round. 6th: worked exactly like 5th, with 2 d.c. on the first and last of every 5, and 1 on each of the intermediate, so that the round consists of 8 sides, of 7 d.c. each, divided by a chain of three. 7th: the same, with 10 d.c. over the 7. 8th: the same, with 12 d.c. over the 10. 9th: 3 ch., twist it into a d.c. stitch, x 3 more chain, 2 d.c. in the first of 12, 4 d.c. in next 4, 3 ch., miss 2, 4 d.c. in 4, 2 d.c. in last of 12, x 7 times; 3 ch., 2 d.c. in first, 4 d.c. in 4, 3 ch., miss 2, 4 d.c. in 4, 1 d.c. in the same as the twisted chain; finish with a slip stitch. 10th: begin, as usual, with 6 ch; then on each section of the octagon, x 4 d.c. on first 4, 3 ch., miss 2, 3 d.c. on 3 ch., 3 ch., miss 2, 4 d.c. on 4, x 3 ch. between. at the last of the 8 finish with 3 d.c., as the last is made at the beginning of the round; slip on the top of it. 11th: begin and end as usual [_see note_]. on each section do x 2 d.c. on 2, 3 ch., miss 2, 3 d.c. on 3 ch., 3 ch., miss 3 d.c., 3 d.c. on 3 ch., 3 ch., miss 2, 2 d.c. on last 2, 3 ch., x. 12th: begin and end as usual. on each section work x 2 d.c. on 1, 4 d.c. on 4, 3 ch., miss 3, 3 d.c. on 3 ch., 3 ch., miss 3, 4 d.c. on 4, 2 d.c. on the last, 3 ch., x. 13th: begin and end as usual. on each division do x 2 d.c. on 1, 8 d.c. on 8, 4 ch., miss 3, 8 d.c. on 8, 2 d.c. on 1, 3 ch., x. 14th: all d.c., increasing so as to have 26 on each side of the octagon, with the usual 3 ch. between the divisions. 15th: begin and end as usual. work on each part x 7 d.c. on 7, x 2 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., x twice; 2 ch. miss 2, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 8 d.c. on 8, 3 ch., x. 16th: begin and end as usual. work on each part x 2 d.c. on 1, 4 d.c. on 4, 2 ch., miss 2, 14 d.c. on 14, 2 ch., miss 2, 5 d.c. on 5, 2 d.c. on 1, 3 ch., x. [illustration: music stool couvrette.] 17th: begin and end as usual. x 2 d.c. on 1, 3 d.c. on 3, 2 ch., miss 2, 6 d.c. on 6, 2 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 5 d.c. on 5, 2 ch., miss 2, 4 ch. on 4, 2 d.c. on 1, 3 ch. x. 18th: begin and end as usual, x 2 d.c. on 1, 4 d.c. on 4, 2 ch., miss 2, 6 d.c. on 6, 2 ch., miss 2, 13 d.c. on 13, 2 ch., miss 1, 4 d.c. on 4, 2 d.c. on 1, 3 ch. x. 19th: begin and end as usual. x 6 d.c. on 6, 2 ch., miss 2, 6 d.c. on 6, 2 ch., miss 2, 3 d.c. on 3, 2 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c. 2 ch., miss 1, 4 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 6 d.c., 3 ch., x. 20th: begin and end as usual. x 2 d.c. on 1, 5 d.c. on 5, 2 ch., miss 2, 6 d.c. on 6, 2 ch., miss 2, 3 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 12 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, 5 d.c., 3 ch., x. 21st: begin and end as usual, x 9 d.c. 3 ch., miss 2, 9 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 3 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 4 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 4 d.c., 2 d.c. in 1, 3 ch., x. 22nd: begin and end as usual. x 10 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 9 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 3 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 7 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 5 d.c., 2 d.c. in 1, 3 ch., x. 23rd: begin and end as usual. x 2 d.c. in 1, 11 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 12 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 7 d.c., 2 ch, miss 2, 6 d.c., 2 d.c. in 1, 3 ch., *. 24th: break off the thread in this and the following round, and begin at the beginning of a division of the octagon, instead of at the last stitch as hitherto. x 14 d.c., beginning on the _second_ in the division, 2 ch., miss 2, 8 d c., 2 ch., miss 2, 9 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 7 d.c., 3 ch., d.c. on the centre of the 3 chain of last round, 3 ch., x. [work in the ends of cotton as you go on, and slip on the first stitch at the end of every round.] 25th: x miss the first d.c. of the last row, 1 _diminished_ stitch on the two next, 12 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 12 d.c., x 2 ch., miss 2, 4 d.c., * twice; 1 diminished stitch on the next 2, ** 2 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., ** 4 times, 2 ch., x. 26th: x 1 diminished d.c. stitch on the two first of 12, 11 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 9 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 5 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 3 d.c., 1 diminished d.c., 1 ch, miss 1, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 4 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., 1 ch., x. 27th: x 1 diminished d.c. on two first of 11, 10 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 8 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 4 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 2 d.c., 1 diminished d.c., 3 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 10 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1 d.c., 3 ch., miss 2, x. 28th: x 1 diminished d.c. (beginning on the same of last round), 6 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 3 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 4 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 5 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 2 d.c., 1 diminished d.c., 2 ch., d.c. on centre of 3 ch. in last round, 2 ch., miss 1, 7 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 7 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, d.c. on centre of 3 ch., 2 ch., x. 29th: x 5 d.c. beginning on the diminished stitch of last round, 2 ch., miss 2, 6 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 10 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 3 d.c., 3 ch., miss 2, 7 d.c., ** 2 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., ** twice, 2 ch., miss 2, 7 d.c., 3 ch., miss 2, x. 30th: x (begin on the second of 5 d.c.), 4 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 8 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 6 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 4 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, ** 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, ** twice, 7 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 7 d.c., *** 2 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., *** twice; 2 ch., miss 1, x. 31st: x (begin on the second of 4 d.c.), 5 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 6 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 4 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 5 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, ** 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, ** three times, 10 d.c., *** 2 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., *** 3 times, 2 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, *. 32nd: x (begin on the second of 5), 6 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 2 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 4 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 6 d.c., 3 ch., miss 2, 5 open squares, 1 close, 5 open, 1 d.c., 3 ch., miss 2, x. 33rd: x (begin on second of 6), 7 d.c., ** 2 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., ** twice; 2 ch., miss 2, 7 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, 13 open squares, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, x. 34th: x (begin on the second of 7), 1 diminished stitch, 16 d.c., 1 diminished, 2 ch., miss 1, ** 3 open squares, 1 close, ** 3 times, 3 open squares, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, x. 35th: x (begin on the first of 16), 1 diminished, 5 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 5 d.c., 1 diminished, 2 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, 2 open squares, ** 1 close, 1 open, ** 6 times, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, *** 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, *** twice, x. 36th: * (begin on the first of 5), 1 diminished, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 2 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., 1 diminished, ** 2 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., ** twice, 2 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, *** 1 close square, 3 open, *** 3 times, 1 close, 2 open, **** 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, **** twice, x. 37th: x (begin on the 1 d.c.), 1 diminished, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., 1 diminished, ** 2 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., ** twice, *** 2 ch., miss 2, 1 d.c., *** 3 times, 2 ch., miss 2, **** 1 close, 1 open square, **** 6 times, 3 more open, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1 x. 38th: x (begin on 1 d.c.), 1 d.c., 1 diminished over the 2 ch, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, 6 open squares, ** 1 close, 3 open, * twice, 1 close, 6 open, *** 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 1, *** twice x. finish this round, like all the preceding, since the direction, with a slip stitch on the first stitch of the round. then a round of open square crochet, the d.c. stitches coming on those of the last round, and allowing 2 ch. over the one diminished stitch at every point. the 40th round is entirely in d.c. for the band.--make a chain of 624 stitches, and close in a round, on which work a round of d.c. 2nd round: open square crochet. 3rd: x 4 open squares, 2 close, 2 open, x 26 times. 4th:. x 3 open, 2 close, 1 open, 1 close, 1 open, x 26 times. 5th: x 2 open, 1 close, 1 open, 1 close, 1 open, 1 close, 1 open, x 26 times. 6th: x 1 open, 2 close, 1 open 1 close, 3 open, x 26 times. 7th, 8th, and 9th: x 1 open, 2 close, 2 open, 1 close, 2 open, x 26 times. 10th: x 2 open, 3 close, 3 open, * 26 times. 11th: open square crochet. 12th: d.c. edging.--one pattern takes up the space of a pattern of the band, consequently there are 26 in the round. each is finished before proceeding to the next. the band and edging may be done entirely without breaking off the thread, therefore continue for the latter, after closing the former. 12 s.c., 12 ch., close it into a round, under which work 23 s.c.; 9 s.c. on the edge of the band; turn the work on the wrong side,--7 ch., miss 5 of the 23 on the round, s.c. under the 6th, * 5 ch, miss 3, s.c. under 4th, * 3 times; 7 ch., s.c. under 4th of the 12 s.c. (leaving a space of 8 to the loop). turn on the right side and work under each loop of 7, 1 s.c., 2 d.c. 4 t.c., 2 d.c., 2 s.c., and under the other loops, 2 s.c., 4 d.c., 2 s.c.: 2 s.c. more on the band complete one pattern. fasten to the round with a row of s.c., taking a stitch of each. note.--it is to be remembered that each round begins with a d.c. of 3 ch., and 3 ch., after which the pattern between the * * is done 7 times throughout, and the eighth time the last d.c. and 3 ch. are omitted, being worked at the commencement of the round. to write this at the end of every round would make the directions tediously long, and the worker can find no difficulty if observing this note. * * * * * chair cushion. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head knitting cord, no. 40, or 60, with a suitable hook. this is a new and extremely pretty kind of cushion, for the back of a chair, which renders an ordinary seat almost as commodious as a professedly _easy_ chair. a small cushion is made, just the length of the back of the chair, and narrow in the proportion seen in the engraving, which is covered either with berlin-wool work, or (as we have designed) with crochet. it is suspended from the top of the chair by ribbons or cords; and the lower edge is finished with either fringe or tassels. we have given two sizes of cotton as suitable for this purpose, as the dimensions must depend on those of the chair. the pattern requires a foundation chain of 274 stitches, and if no. 40 cord is used, and an ordinary hook suitable for it, the length will be as nearly as possible, half a yard. should the chair not be so wide, the same number of stitches, _with a finer cord_, will decrease the cushion cover; if required larger, for any purpose whatever, by using a coarser material the same design will be proportionably increased. and here we may be allowed to suggest a purpose to which this pattern is peculiarly applicable, and which will be found an article extremely beneficial to "the neat-handed phillis." [illustration: chair cushion.] in these days of homoeopathy, when the love of cold water is on the increase (as indeed it is high time it was), and while the means for thorough ablution are not perhaps as yet so extensively patronised as they deserve to be, we all know the destruction occasioned to that part of the paper which is immediately above the washhand-stand. now we would propose a splash cloth, in crochet, of this or any similar design, to be worked in very coarse cotton, such as brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head knitting cord, no. 16, lined with glazed calico to match the hangings, and suspended above the washhand-stand. it will be a pretty decoration, perfectly preventing the injury usually occurring to the walls, readily washed, and always new. as fine cotton decreases the dimensions of a piece of work, so thicker cotton, with a hook proportionately large, _increases_ its size. the number of the cotton chosen should depend on the size of the stand. no. 40, it will be remembered, will work it about half a yard long. when used to cover a cushion, the cushion itself should be of a colour to match with the hangings, and the crochet work is to be tacked lightly over it at each edge. * * * * * toilet cover in crochet. [illustration: toilet cover in crochet] materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton, no. 24. no. 3 penelope hook. 1st row: make a chain of about 180 stitches, turn back, work 1 l. into 9th loop, this will form 1 sq. in next row; then 1 l., 2 ch., 1 l. into 3rd loop, repeat. there must be 190 sq., or squares, only. 2nd: in beginning this row, make 1 l., in the 3rd ch. of the 8 ch., then 2 ch., 1 l. on l., repeat; make 5 rows of these squares. after the first 5 rows the work must not be turned. 6th: 12 sq., 3 l., 15 sq., 15 l., * 14 sq., 15 l., repeat from * till within 24 sq. of the end, then 13 sq., 3 l., 10 sq. 7th: 10 sq., 12 l., 13 sq., * 6 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 10 sq., repeat from * 6 times more, then 6 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 9 sq., 9 l., 9 sq. 8th: 8 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 9 sq., * 9 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 8 sq., repeat from * 6 times more, then 9 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 8 sq. 9th: 7 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 7 sq., * 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 7 sq., repeat from * 6 times more, then 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 21 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 7 sq. 10th: 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., * 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., repeat from * 6 times more, then 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 13 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 7 sq. 11th: 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., * 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., repeat from * 6 times more, then 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 7 sq., 18 l., 6 sq. 12th: 6 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 12 l., * 5 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 12 l., repeat from * 6 times more, then 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 6 sq. 13th: 7 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 21 l., * 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 5 sq., 21 l., repeat from * 6 times more, then 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq. 14th: 7 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., * 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., repeat from * 6 times more, then 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 6 sq. 15th: 8 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., * 5 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., repeat from * 6 times more, then 6 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 7 sq. 16th: 8 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., * 4 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 15 l., repeat from * 7 times more, 7 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 8 sq. 17th: 8 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., * 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., repeat from * 6 times more, then 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 27 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 7 sq. 18th: 8 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., * 6 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., repeat from * 6 times more, then 6 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 7 sq. 19: 8 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 12 l., * 7 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 12 l., repeat from * 6 times more, then 7 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 8 sq. 20th: 7 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 27 l., * 10 sq., 27 l., repeat from * 6 times more, then 7 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 8 sq. 21st: 7 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 154 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 9 sq. 22nd: 6 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 155 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 10 sq. 23rd: 6 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 6 l., 155 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 10 sq. 24th: ^{a}6 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 27 l^{a}, 151 sq., ^{b}6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 11 sq^{b}. these letters will be referred to hereafter. 25th: ^{c}5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l^{c}, 151 sq., ^{d}3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 11 sq^{d}. 26th: ^{e}5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l^{e}., 150 sq., ^{f}3 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 11 sq^{f}. 27th: ^{g}5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l^{g}., 150 sq., ^{h}3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 12 sq^{h}. 28th: ^{i}5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l^{i}., 150 sq., ^{k}3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 6 sq^{k}. 29th: ^{l}5 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l^{l}., 150 sq., ^{m}3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq^{m}. 30th: ^{n}6 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l^{n}., 150 sq., ^{o}3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq^{o}. 31st: ^{p}12 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l^{p}., 150 sq., ^{q}3 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq^{q}. 32nd: ^{r}11 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 3 l^{r}., 150 sq., ^{s}6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq^{s}. 33rd: ^{t}11 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l^{t}., 151 sq., ^{u}3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq^{u}. 34th: ^{v}11 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l^{v}., 151 sq., ^{w}27 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 6 sq^{w}. 35th: ^{x}10 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l^{x}., 155 sq., ^{y}6 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 6 sq^{y}. 36th: ^{z}10 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l^{z}., 79 sq., 3 l., 74 sq., ^{&}6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 6 sq^{&}. 37th: ^{a} 9 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 6 l., ^{b}., 58 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 72 sq., ^{c}3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 7 sq^{d}. 38th: ^{e} 8 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., ^{f}., 58 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 70 sq., ^{g}6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 7 sq^{h}. 39th: ^{i}7 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l^{k}., 57 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 68 sq., ^{l} 3 l, 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 8 sq^{m}. 40th: ^{n}7 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l^{o}., 57 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 53 sq., ^{p}6 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 9 sq^{q}. 41st: ^{r}6 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l^{s}., 46 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 5 sq., 24 l., 52 sq., ^{t}3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 10 sq^{u}. 42nd: ^{v}6 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 6 l^{w}., 49 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 45 sq., ^{x}3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 10 sq^{y}. 43rd: repeat from ^{a} to ^{a} in 24th row, then 47 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 44 sq., repeat from ^{b} to ^{b} in 24th row. 44th: repeat from ^{c} to ^{c} in 25th row, 36 sq., 3 l., 12 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 42 sq., repeat from ^{d} to ^{d} in 25th row. 45th: repeat from ^{e} to ^{e} in 26th row, then 34 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 11 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 2 sq. 6 l., 42 sq., repeat from ^{f} to ^{f}. 46th: repeat from ^{g} to ^{g}, in 27th row, 34 sq., 30 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 43 sq., repeat from ^{h} to ^{h}. 47th: repeat from ^{i} to ^{i} in 28th row, 34 sq., 39 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 11 sq., 3 l., 32 sq., repeat from ^{k} to ^{k}. 48th: repeat from ^{l} to ^{l} in 29th row, 35 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 30 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 7 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 32 sq., repeat from ^{m} to ^{m}. 49th: repeat from ^{n} to ^{n}, 34 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 24 l., 5 sq., 15 l., 6 sq., 18 l., 32 sq., repeat from ^{o} to ^{o}. 50th: repeat from ^{p} to ^{p}, 34 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 31 sq., repeat from ^{q} to ^{q}. 51st: repeat from ^{r} to ^{r}, 35 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 12 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 31 sq., repeat from ^{s} to ^{s}. 52nd: repeat from ^{t} to ^{t}, 22 sq., 12 l., 10 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 33 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 15 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 32 sq. repeat from ^{u} to ^{u}. 53rd: repeat from ^{v} to ^{v}, 21 sq., 18 l., 8 sq., 21 l, 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 13 sq., 12 l., 5 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 33 sq., repeat from ^{w} to ^{w}. 54th: repeat from ^{x} to ^{x}, 22 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 27 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 28 sq., repeat from ^{y} to ^{y}. 55th: repeat from ^{z} to ^{z}, 22 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 33 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 24 sq., repeat from ^{&} to ^{&}. 56th: repeat from ^{a} to ^{b}, in 37th row, 22 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 57 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 25 sq., repeat from ^{c} to ^{d}. 57th: repeat from ^{e} to ^{f}, 22 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 9 l, 2 sq., 24 l., 5 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 26 sq., repeat from ^{g} to ^{h}. 58th: repeat from ^{i} to ^{k}, 22 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 5 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 6 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 24 sq., repeat from ^{l} to ^{m}. 59th: repeat from ^{n} to ^{o}, 23 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 7 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 4 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 18 l., 26 sq., repeat from ^{p} to ^{q}. 60th: repeat from ^{r} to ^{s}, 23 sq., 27 l., 15 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 27 l., 24 sq., repeat from ^{t} to ^{u}. 61st: repeat from ^{v} to ^{w}, 25 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 6 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 12 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 26 sq., repeat from ^{x} to ^{y}. 62nd: repeat from ^{a} to ^{a}, in 24th row, 24 sq., 27 l., 6 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 6 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 32 sq., repeat from ^{b} to ^{b}. 63rd: repeat from ^{c} to ^{c}, 23 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 30 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 27 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 6 l., 23 sq., repeat from ^{d} to ^{d}. 64th: repeat from ^{e} to ^{e}, 22 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 24 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 24 sq., repeat from ^{f} to ^{f}. 65th: repeat from ^{g} to ^{g}, 22 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 20 sq., repeat from ^{h} to ^{h}. 66th: repeat from ^{i} to ^{i}, 23 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 s., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 22 sq., repeat from ^{k} to ^{k}. 67th: repeat from ^{l} to ^{l}, 23 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 6 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 30 l., 25 sq., repeat from ^{m} to ^{m}. 68th: repeat from ^{n} to ^{n}, 30 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 33 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 22 sq., repeat from ^{o} to ^{o}. 69th: repeat from ^{p} to ^{p}, 28 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 24 sq., repeat from ^{q} to ^{q}. 70th: repeat from ^{r} to ^{r}, 27 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 18 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 18 l., 25 sq., repeat from ^{s} to ^{s}. 71st: repeat from ^{t} to ^{t}, 28 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 7 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 25 sq., repeat from ^{u} to ^{u}. 72nd: repeat from ^{v} to ^{v}, 27 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 42 sq., repeat from ^{w} to ^{w}. 73rd: repeat from ^{x} to ^{x}, 27 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 11 sq., 21 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 40 sq., repeat from ^{y} to ^{y}. 74th: repeat from ^{z} to ^{z}, 27 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 38 sq., repeat from ^{&} to ^{&}. 75th: repeat from ^{a} to ^{b}, 27 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 36 sq., repeat from ^{c} to ^{d}. 76th: repeat from ^{e} to ^{f}, 33 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 24 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 34 sq., repeat from ^{g} to ^{h}. 77th: repeat from ^{i} to ^{k}, 33 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 33 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 7 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 35 sq., repeat from ^{l} to ^{m}. 78th: repeat from ^{n} to ^{o}, 34 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 32 sq., repeat from ^{p} to ^{q}. 79th: repeat from ^{r} to ^{s}, 34 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 27 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 31 sq., repeat from ^{t} to ^{u}. 80th: repeat from ^{v} to ^{w}, 36 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 4 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 31 sq., repeat from ^{x} to ^{y}. 81st: repeat from ^{a} to ^{a}, 33 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 24 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 11 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 31 sq., repeat from ^{b} to ^{b}. 82nd: repeat from ^{c} to ^{c}, 34 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 42 l., 30 sq., repeat from ^{d} to ^{d}. 83rd: repeat from ^{e} to ^{e} 34 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 32 sq., repeat from ^{f} to ^{f}. 84th: repeat from ^{g} to ^{g}, 35 sq., 18 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 3 l, 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 35 sq., repeat from ^{h} to ^{h}. 85th: repeat from ^{i} to ^{i} 39 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 11 sq., 3 l, 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 6 l, 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 46 sq., repeat from ^{k} to ^{k}. 86th: repeat from ^{l} to ^{l},50 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 12 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 7 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 47 sq., repeat from ^{m} to ^{m}. 87th: repeat from ^{n} to ^{n},50 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 11 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 46 sq., repeat from ^{o} to ^{o}. 88th: repeat from ^{p} to ^{p}, 51 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 46 sq., repeat from ^{q} to ^{q}. 89th: repeat from ^{r} to ^{r}, 52 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 18 l., 6 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 18 l., 7 sq., 9 l., 47 sq., repeat from s to ^{s}. 90th: repeat from ^{t} to ^{t}, 52 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., 3 l., 48 sq., repeat from ^{u} to ^{u}. 91st: repeat from ^{v} to ^{v}, 61 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 27 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 58 sq., repeat from ^{w} to ^{w}. 92nd: repeat from ^{x} to ^{x}, 62 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 63 sq., repeat from ^{y} to ^{y}. 93rd: repeat from ^{z} to ^{z}, 63 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 9 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 62 sq., repeat from & to &. 94th: repeat from ^{a} to ^{b}, 65 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 11 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., 3 l., 62 sq., repeat from ^{c} to ^{d}. 95th: repeat from ^{e} to ^{f}, 67 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 21 sq., 3 l., 61 sq., repeat from ^{g} to ^{h}. 96th: repeat from ^{i} to ^{k} 154 sq., repeat from ^{l} to ^{m}. 97th: repeat from ^{n} to ^{o}, 154 sq., repeat from ^{p} to ^{q}. 98th: repeat from ^{r} to ^{s}, 154 sq., repeat from ^{t} to ^{u}. 99th: repeat from ^{v} to ^{w}, 155 sq., repeat from ^{x} to ^{y}. 100th: repeat from ^{a} to ^{a}, 151 sq., repeat from ^{b} to ^{b}. 101st: repeat from ^{c} to ^{c}, 151 sq., repeat from ^{d} to ^{d}. 102nd: repeat from ^{e} to ^{e}, 150 sq., repeat from ^{f} to ^{f}. 103rd: repeat from ^{g} to ^{g}, 150 sq., repeat from ^{h} to ^{h}. 104th: repeat from ^{i} to ^{i} 150 sq., repeat from ^{k} to ^{k}. 105th: repeat from ^{l} to ^{l},150 sq., repeat from ^{m} to ^{m}. 106th: repeat from ^{n} to ^{n},150 sq., repeat from ^{o} to ^{o}. 107th: repeat from ^{p} to ^{p},150 sq., repeat from ^{q} to ^{q}. 108th: repeat from ^{r} to ^{r}, 150 sq., repeat from ^{s} to ^{s}. 109th: repeat from ^{t} to ^{t}, 151 sq., repeat from ^{u} to ^{u}. 110th: repeat from ^{v} to ^{v}, 161 sq., repeat from ^{w} to ^{w}. 111th: 8 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 27 l., * 10 sq., 27 l, repeat from * till within 23 sq. of the end, then 6 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 7 sq. 112th: 8 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., * 5 sq., 9 l., 7 sq., 12 l., repeat from * till within 20 sq., then 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l, 2 sq., 3 l., 8 sq. 113th: 7 sq., 6 l, 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., * 3 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., repeat from * till 18 sq., then 1 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 8 sq. 114th: 7 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 27 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., * 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., repeat from * till 16 sq., then 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 8 sq. 115th: 7 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 7 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., * 4 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., repeat from * till 21 sq., then 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 8 sq. 116th: 7 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., * 5 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., repeat from * till within 20 sq., then 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 8 sq. 117th: 6 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., * 8 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., repeat from * till 32 sq., then 8 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 7 sq. 118th: 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 21 l., * 5 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 21 l., repeat from * till 25 sq., then 5 sq., 15 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 7 sq. 119th: 6 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 12 l., * 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 12 l., repeat from * till 22 sq., then 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 6 sq. 120th: 6 sq., 18 l., 7 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 9 l., * 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 9 l., repeat from * till 20 sq., then 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq. 121st: 7 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 13 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., * 6 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., repeat from * till 27 sq., then 6 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq. 122nd: 7 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 21 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., * 7 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., repeat from * till 27 sq., then 7 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 7 sq. 123rd: 8 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 9 l., * 8 sq., 9 l, 5 sq., 9 l., repeat from, * till 27 sq., then 9 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 8 sq. 124th: 9 sq., 9 l., 9 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 6 l., * 10 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 6 l., repeat from * till 27 sq., then 13 sq., 12 l., 10 sq. 125th: 10 sq., 3 l., 13 sq., 15 l., * 14 sq., 15 l., repeat from * till 28 sq., then 15 sq., 3 l., 12 sq. now 5 rows of squares. 3 d.c. stitches under every 2 chains, and long stitches all round, making 7 d.c., at each corner. border.--begin on the long side, 3 l. into corner loop, 7 ch., 3 d.c., the 1st into 4th loop, * 7 ch., 3 l., the 1st into 7th loop, 7 ch., 3 d.c., the 1st into 7th loop, repeat from * till the end, where make 7 ch., work at corner as before, then 7 ch., 3 d.c., the 1st into 4th loop, now work down the short side; but as the will be 4 more loops on this side than can be made available for the pattern, at 4 different intervals, widely apart, take 2 loops together in making the l. stitches; that is, insert the hook through 2 loops of the foundation at the same time instead of one. 2nd: begin at corner, 2 l. into every loop of the l. stitches at corner in last row, 7 ch., * 5 d.c., the 1st into 6th loop, 5 ch., 5 l., the 1st into 6th loop, 5 ch., repeat from *. 3rd: work at corner as before, that is, working 2 l. into every loop, 8 ch., * 3 d.c., the 1st on 2nd d.c., 6 ch., 7 l., the 1st into 6th loop, 6 ch., repeat from *. begin each row with the long stitch at a corner, but not at same the corner every time; this is to prevent the joinings being seen. 4th: 6 l. on the first 6 l. at corner, 3 ch., 6 l. on the remaining 6 l., 4 ch., * 1 l. into 3rd loop, 7 ch., 1 l. into 3rd loop from the last of the 3 d.c. in last row, 2 ch., 9 l. the 1st into 3rd loop, 2 ch., repeat from *. 5th: 7 l., beginning as before, 5 ch., miss 1 loop, 7 l., * 7 ch., d.c. into centre loop of 7 ch., 3 ch., 9 l. the 1st into 2nd loop from l. stitch in last row, repeat from *. 6th: 9 l., 5 ch., miss 1 loop, 9 l., * 5 ch., d.c. into 4th loop, 7 ch., 9 l., the 1st into 3rd loop from d.c. stitch in last row, repeat from *. 7th: 12 l., 5 ch., miss 1 loop, 12 l., * 5 ch., 1 l. into centre loop of 5 ch., 9 ch., 1 l. into 3rd loop of the 7 ch., from d.c. stitch in last row, 5 ch., 3 d.c. on the centre 3 l. of the 9 l., repeat from *. 8th: 14 l., 5 ch., miss 1 loop, 14 l., * 5 d.c. under the 5 ch., 5 l. into the 1st 5 loops of the 9 ch., 5 ch., 1 more l. into same loop, 4 more l. into the remaining loops, 5 d.c. under the 5 ch., 5 ch., repeat from *. * * * * * [illustration: star-pattern d'oyley.] materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton, nos. 10, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, and penelope crochet hook, nos. 3, 3-1/2, 4. with cotton no. 26, and hook no. 3. for centre star or _a_ work 10 chain, make it round, and in the loop you have formed work 24 d.c.; 1 s.c. in 1st d.c. ** 5 chain, miss 2, 1 s.c. in 3rd, repeat from ** 7 times more; in 1st 5 chain, * 2 long, 7 chain, 2 long in same 5 chain, 5 chain repeat from * in each 5 chain all round, fasten off. fasten cotton no. 24, and hook no. 3-1/2. ** in 7 chain 4 long, 4 chain turn and on the 4 chain, miss 1, 1 d.c., 2 long; 4 long in same 7 chain; 2 chain, 1 s.c. in centre of 5 chain; 2 chain repeat ** all round. * 2 long, 1 chain, miss 1, 2 long, 1 chain, miss 1, 2 long, 7 chain, 1 long in same as last long, 1 long in next chain, 1 chain, miss 1, 2 long, 1 chain, miss 1, 2 long, miss 4. repeat all round, * fasten off. _b_. with cotton no. 24, and hook 3-1/2, 10 chain join round; work in round loop; 16 d.c. 3rd row: 1 long, 5 chain, 1 long, 3 chain, repeat all round. 4th: 3 long in the centre of 5 chain; 4 chain, 1 s.c. in the centre of 3 chains; 4 chain; repeat all round, fasten off. with no. 22 cotton, and the same hook. * 1 long in 2nd long of 3 long in last row; "3 chain," 1 long in same as last; 2 chain, miss 1, 2 long, 1 d.c. in last long; miss 3, 1 d.c., 2 long, 2 chain, repeat * 7 times more only in the last point in "3 chain." join to _a_ in the following manner: 2 chain draw through the 4th stitch of 7 chain of _a_, then repeat the same as before, fasten off. 2nd _b_. make the same as first _b_ till the last row, where join in precisely the same way; the 1st point to centre _a_ and two more points to 1st _b_; finish the row same as 1st _a_, and fasten off. make 6 more _b_, joining in the same manner. you will see what points are joined in the engraving. _c_. with cotton no. 30, and hook 4. 8 chain, 1 s c. in 1st: then in round loop; * 1 d.c. 5 chain repeat * 5 times more. in 1st 5 chain ** 1 d.c., 2 long, 3 chain, join to a, turn, and on 3 chain 1 d.c., 2 long: in same 5 chain, 2 long, 1 d.c. ** repeat 5 times more, joining each petal as in the engraving, fasten off. make 7 more _c_s, joining between _a_ and _b_s in the same manner. _d_. with cotton no. 22, and hook 3-1/2. 8 chain, make it round, and in loop work 12 d.c.; * 1 d.c. on 1st d.c., 5 chain, miss 1, repeat 5 times more, * then in each 5 chain; ** 2 d.c., 4 long, 2 d.c., ** fasten off. with cotton no. 20, and hook 3-1/2. * 1 s.c. in 2nd d.c., 6 chain turn, miss 1, 1 d.c.; 4 chain repeat * 5 times more; miss 1, ** 5 long, 7 chain 1 long in same as last long; 4 long, miss 2, repeat ** 5 times more, except in the last two points, where in 4th chain stitch of 7 chain join to point of _b_, fasten off. make 7 more _d_s, joining as in the engraving. _e_. with cotton no. 20, and hook 3-1/2. 10 chain make round; * 2 d.c. in loop; 7 chain repeat * 3 times more. ** 5 long in 7 chain, 3 chain, 5 long repeat ** 3 times more, joining, as seen in the engraving, to _b_ and _d_, fasten off. make 7 more _e_s, joining each between two _d_s. _f_. with cotton no. 30, and hook 4. make 7 chain, make into a loop, and in loop * 1 d.c., 4 chain join to b, turn, miss 1, 1 d.c., 2 long repeat * 5 times more; join in the same manner, and placed as in the engraving, fasten off. make 7 more, joining them as you make them. _g_. with cotton no. 28, and hook 4. * 1 d.c. on 1st d.c. of _e_ 5 chain, miss 2, * repeat all round. make the tassels with no. 10 cotton, over a card 2 inches wide; wind it round the card 10 times, tie it round about half an inch down, draw the cotton tight and bring the ends to the top again, fasten to the d'oyley, as in the engraving. make a sufficient number to go round. * * * * * crochet d'oyley. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet thread, no. 36: and penelope crochet hook, no. 5. make a round loop the size of this o, and then commence. 1st round: ch. 3, and work 1 treble for 8 times in the round loop of last round, plain 1, and fasten off. 2nd: 3 treble at the top of the one treble of last round, ch. 3, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off. 3rd: 5 treble at the top of the three treble of last round, ch. 3, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off. 4th: 7 treble at the top of the five treble of last round, ch. 3, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off. [illustration: crochet d'oyley.] 5th: 3 treble at the top of the seven treble of last round, ch. 4, work 1 treble in the centre of the three chain of last round, ch. 4, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off. 6th: 3 treble at the top of the five treble of last round, ch. 5, work 1 treble at the top of the one treble of last round, ch. 2, work 1 treble in the same loop as before, chain 5, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off. 7th: 2 treble at the top of the three treble of last round, ch. 6, work 7 treble in the two chain of last round, ch. 6, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off. 8th: 1 treble at the top of the two treble of last round, ch. 8, work 7 treble at the top of the seven treble of last round, ch. 8, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off. 9th: 3 treble at the top of the one treble of last round, ch. 9, work 5 treble at the top of the seven treble of last round, ch. 9, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off. 10th: 3 treble at the top of the three treble of last round, ch. 11, work 3 treble at the top of the five treble of last round, ch. 11, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off. 11th: 2 treble at the top of the three treble of last round, ch. 13, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off. 12th: 1 treble at the top of the two treble of last round, ch. 15, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off. 13th: 1 treble at the top of the one treble of last round, ch. 2, work 1 treble in the same loop as before, ch. 13, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off. 14th: 9 treble in the centre of the two chain of last round, ch. 12, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off. 15th: 9 treble at the top of the nine treble of last round, ch. 6, work 1 double in the centre of the twelve chain of last round, ch. 6, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off. 16th: 7 treble at the top of the nine treble of last round, ch. 8, work 1 treble at the top of the one double of last round, ch. 2, work 1 treble in the same loop as before, ch. 8, and repeat round; plain 1, and fasten off. 17th: 5 treble at the top of seven treble of last round, ch. 6, work 1 treble in the centre of the two chain of last round, then ch. 3, and work one treble three times more in the same loop as before, ch. 6, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off. 18th: 3 treble at the top of the five treble of last round, ch. 4, work 2 treble in the first three chain of last round, ch. 3, work 2 treble in the same loop as before, ch. 1, and work the same in the next two three chains of last round, ch. 4, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off. 19th: 2 treble at the top of the three treble of last round, ch. 2, then work as follows in each of the three chains of last round, 3 treble, ch. 3, work 3 treble all in the first three chain of last round, ch. 2, and work the same in the next two three chains of last round, ch. 2, and repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off. 20th: 1 treble at the top of the two treble of last round, then work as follows in each of the three chains of last round, 3 treble, ch. 3, work 3 treble in the same loop as before, ch. 3, and repeat the same in the next two three chains of last round, repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off, which completes the d'oyley. * * * * * rose d'oyley. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton, nos. 14, 16, 18, 20, 28. walker's penelope hook, nos. 3, 3-1/2, 4. _a_. with cotton no. 20 and hook 3-1/2, work 13 chains: make it round and in loop 24 d.c., 1 d.c. on d.c., 7 chain, miss 2, repeat 7 times more; in 4th chain stitch of 7 chain, 1 s.c., 12 chain, 1 s.c. in 6th chain from hook; 7 chain, 1 s.c. in same at last s.c.; 5 chain, 1 s.c., in same as last s.c., 5 chain, 1 s.c. in next chain stitch to 1st of 12 chain; 5 chain, repeat 7 times more, fasten off. _b_. with cotton no. 18 and hook 3-1/4, work 10 chain, make it round, and in loop 24 d.c. * in 1st d.c. work 3 chain, 3 long, 3 chain, 1 d.c., miss 1, and repeat * 7 times more. those only in the last, 2 long, join to 4th chain stitch of 7 chain of _a_, 1 long, 3 chain, 1 d.c., fasten off. make 7 more _b_, joining to the 7 chains of _a_. [illustration: rose d'oyley.] _c_. with cotton no. 16 and hook 3, ** 1 s.c. in the centre of the two 5 chains of _a_, nearest the foundation: 7 chain, 1 s.c. in the centre of 5 chain; 5 chain, 1 s.c. on 2nd long of 1st division of _b_; * 3 chain, 1 d.c. on next division, repeat * 5 times more, 5 chain; 1 d.c. in next 5 chain, 7 chain, repeat ** 7 times more, fasten off. d.c. all round the chain and fasten off. _d_. with cotton no. 28 and hook 4, * 7 chain, 1 s.c. in 1st chain, and in round loop 1 d.c., 4 long, 3 chain; join to d.c. stitches where the two 5 chains are found together, turn, and on the 3 chain 1 d.c., 3 long; then in round loop, 4 long, 1 d.c.; then join to the d.c. on the opposite side, and fasten off. repeat * 7 times more. _e_. with cotton no. 18 and hook 3. where you left off in _d_, join on no. 18 cotton; 9 chain, 1 s.c. in 5th chain; then in round loop ** 1 d.c., 5 chain, join to 5th d.c. from where you joined no. 18 cotton on; 5 chain, turn, and on 10 chain, 1 d.c., 9 long; 1 d.c. in round loop, 7 chain join to the top d.c., 3 chain. 1 s.c. in the 7th chain, 3 chain, 1 d.c. in the 7th chain; * 2 * 5 long, 1 d.c. in same as 1st d.c., 1 d.c. in round loop, repeat ** from ** without joining the 10 chain twice. the second time only work to * 2 *, work 3 long, join to 5th d.c. from where you joined no. 18 cotton on; 2 more long on 7 chain, 1 d.c.; then 3 s.c. down the stem. make 7 more joining in the same way: fasten off. _f_. with cotton no. 16 and hook 3. in 14th d.c. of _c_ from where you joined no. 18 cotton on, * 1 d.c., 4 chain, join to 1st 3 chain of _e_ of 1st section, 4 chain, join to 2nd 3 chain of _e_ of 1st section; 8 chain join to 1st 3 chain of _e_ of 2nd section, 3 chain, join to 2nd 3 chain of _e_ of 2nd section; 8 chain, join to 1st 3 chain of _e_ of 3rd section; 3 chain, join to 2nd 3 chain of _e_ of 3rd section; 4 chain, repeat all round; d.c. all round. _g_. with cotton no. 16 and hook 3, 10 chain, make it round and in loop; 8 d.c. join to the same place, where you began the long chain of _f_ 5 d.c., * 5 chain join to 8th d.c. of _f_ from where you joined the d.c.: 6 chain, turn, 1 d.c., 7 long, 1 d.c., miss 1, 1 s.c. in next d.c., repeat * 4 times more. join in the same place only to last petal. in the last petal work down the chain as follows: 1 d.c.; 4 long, join to 8th d.c. from where you joined the 1st d.c.; 3 long, 1 d.c., fasten off. make 7 more. joining each as you make them. _h_. with cotton no. 16 and hook 3, 15 chain, 1 s.c. in 1st stitch: then in loop; 24 d.c., * 1 d.c. on d.c., 7 chain, miss 2, repeat * 7 times more, then in each 7 chain, 9 d.c., except the last, which work as follows: 5 d.c. join to 3rd point of _g_, 4 d.c. in same 7 chain. the next _h_, join in the same manner to point of _f_ make sufficient to go round, joining alternately to _g_'s and _f_s. _i_. with cotton no. 14 and hook 3, ** 1 s.c. on 5th d.c. of 1st division of _h_, * 5 chain, 1 s.c. in next division, repeat * 5 times more, 9 chain join to next point of _g_ "9 chain," 1 s.c. in next point of _g_, 9 chain, repeat ** from all round; d.c. all round, and when you have come to the end of "9 chain" 4th d.c. join to the 9th d.c.; * 7 chain, miss 2, 1 d.c. in next, * repeat 9 times the 10 and 11, join to the other side and fasten off. * * * * * toilet cover in square crochet. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton, no. 36, with a fine hook. the pattern for this toilet cover being so elaborate, it must be worked in cotton not coarser than that we have indicated, if intended for an ordinary toilet cover. worked in a coarser material, no. 8 or 12, of brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton, it would make a beautiful quilt for a small bed; and in some of the coarser sizes of the knitting cord, a large counterpane might be worked, and from the clear appearance this material presents, would look very rich and handsome. like all square crochet, this design must be worked from the engraving. the number of foundation chain for working it is 529, reckoning the length, or 346 for the width, if that mode of working be preferred as less cumbersome. it will not, however, answer so well for a toilet cover, as the stitches would go the wrong way. for a counterpane, on the contrary, it would be preferable. [illustration: toilet cover.] for the border of a toilet cover, we should recommend one of the patterns in bead work, found in other parts of this volume. for the edge of a counterpane, nothing can be handsomer than the border and fringe of the bassinet quilt. it should be worked with the same cotton as the centre, and the fringe a degree coarser. crochet counterpanes should be laid over one of the american patent quilted coverlets, which have recently been sold in london, and for invalids, especially, are so extremely comfortable. * * * * * tidy in square crochet. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton, no. 14: walker's penelope crochet-hook, no. 21/2. [illustration: tidy in square crochet. ] make a chain of 289 stitches, which will form ninety-nine squares; with this cotton and hook it will measure twenty-five inches; the pattern must be worked from the engraving, and may be increased in size by using a coarser cotton and thicker hook. * * * * * arabesque toilet-cover in square crochet. [illustration: arabesque toilet-cover in square crochet.] this pattern should be worked in brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton, exactly to the size of the top of the table, in rather thick cotton, to make it look massive, and to retain its form; the edging must be worked in blue beads in crochet to the pattern, and a number of beads given exactly to go round the table and to hang down, and finished with a tassel at each corner. * * * * * cover for a hadrot lamp. materials.--half-a-dozen skeins of each of seven shades of green wool, and four of scarlet ditto. a fine netting-needle, four knitting-needles, no. 14, and the same of no. 16. with the darkest green wool cast on 96 stitches on each of three of the coarsest knitting-needles (that is, 288 altogether), and close into a round. 1st round: plain knitting. [illustration: cover for a hadrot lamp.] 2nd: * knit 1, make 1, knit 6, knit 3 together, knit 6, make 1, * 18 times. 3rd: plain knitting. 4th: change to the darkest scarlet, and repeat the second round. 5th: knit 7, * knit 3 together, knit 13, * 17 times; knit 3 together, knit 6. 6th: * knit 1, make 1, knit 5, knit 3 together, knit 5, make 1, * 18 times. 7th: plain knitting. 8th: change to the next shade of green, and repeat the 6th round. 9th: knit 6, * knit 3 together, knit 11, * 17 times; knit 3 together, knit 5. 10th: * knit 1, make 1, knit 4, knit 3 together, knit 4, make 1, * 18 times. 11th: plain knitting. 12th: change to the next shade of scarlet, and repeat the 10th round. 13th: knit 5, * knit 3 together, knit 9, * 17 times; knit 3 together, knit 4. 14th: * knit 1, make 1, knit 3, knit 3 together, knit 3, make 1, * 18 times. 15th: plain knitting. 16th: change to the next shade of green, and repeat the 14th round. 17th: knit 4, * knit 3 together, knit 7, * 17 times; knit 3 together, knit 3. 18th: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2, knit 3 together, knit 2, make 1, * 18 times. 19th: knit 3, * knit 3 together, knit 5, * 17 times; knit 3 together, knit 2. 20th and 21st: plain knitting, using the finer needles, and decreasing until there are only 96 stitches in the round. 22nd: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 1, * times. 23rd: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, twice, knit 7, * 8 times. 24th: like 22nd. 25th: * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 8, * 8 times. 26th: * slip 1, knit 4, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 3, make 1, slip two together, knit 1, pass the 2 slip over, make 1, knit 2, * 8 times. 27th: like the 25th. 28th: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, * 8 times. 29th: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 7, * 8 times. 30th: like 28th. 31st: * ** slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, ** twice, knit 8, * 8 times. 32nd: * ** slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, ** twice, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, * 8 times. 33rd: like 31st. repeat these 12 rows (that is, from the 22nd to the 33rd, inclusive of both), six times more, doing two patterns (that is, 24 rounds) of one shade, and then changing to the next lightest. after the 7th pattern, continue as follows, in order to decrease and form the neck for the lamp. 1st decreasing round: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 1, * 8 times. 2nd: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, * 8 times. 3rd: * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 1, * 8 times. 4th: * ** slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, ** twice, knit 7, * 8 times. 5th: * * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, ** 3 times, knit 3 together, knit 2, * 8 times. 6th: * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 4, knit 2 together, * 8 times. after this, do two inches of ribbed knitting in the same shade. it is done by alternately knitting and purling two stitches. cast off. the edges of the vandykes are trimmed with tatting, of which five graduated ones surround each. fill the netting-needle with the darkest shade of wool, and make for every point at the base of the corner the following seven loops:-1st: 9 double stitches; draw it up to a half-circle. 2nd: 11 double; the same. 3rd: 13 double; the same. 4th: 15 double; draw it up tightly. 5th: like 3rd. 6th: like 2nd. 7th: like 1st. this cover is intended to protect the lamp from the dust, which greatly injures the bronzing of the hadrot lamp. * * * * * lamp mat, in crochet. materials.--6 skeins of white netting silk, and 3 skeins each of four shades of cerise ditto, the darkest being almost brown, and the lightest a rich and brilliant cerise. a hank of rather large steel beads, a string of short square steel bugles, and 1 oz. of fluted ditto, 1/2 inch long. a skein of rather fine white cotton cord, and 54 rings. tapered, indented crochet-hook, no. 22. begin with the darkest cerise, and do not change until the directions require it. 1st round: with this silk work 8 s.c. on the end of the cord, and form into a round, after which 6 s.c. to secure it. 2nd (cerise and white): x 1 cerise in the same stitch as the last, 1 white, 2 cerise in 1, x 6 times. 3rd: x 1 cerise worked in the same stitch as the last two, 3 white, 2 cerise in one, x 6 times. 4th: like 3rd, with 5 white instead of 3. 5th: x 1 cerise in the same stitch as the last two, 7 white, 4 cerise in 1, x 6 times. 6th: x 1 cerise in the same as the last four, 11 white (the last 2 being over 2 cerise), 4 cerise in one, x 6 times. 7th: x 1 cerise on the next stitch, 13 white, 1 cerise on 1, 3 on the centre one of 5, x 6 times. 8th: like 7th, with 15 white. change to the next shade of cerise. 9th: x 1 cerise on next, 8 white, 1 cerise, 8 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise on centre of 5, x 6 times. 10th: x 1 cerise on next, 8 white, 3 cerise (the second over 1 cerise), 8 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, x 6 times. 11th: x 1 cerise on next, 6 white, 3 cerise, 1 white, 1 cerise, 1 white, 3 cerise, 6 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, x 6 times. 12th: x 1 cerise in next, 6 white, 11 cerise, 6 white, 1 cerise. 3 in 1, x 6 times. next shade of cerise. 13th: x 1 cerise in next, 5 white, 5 cerise, 2 white, 1 cerise, 2 white, 5 cerise, 5 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, x 6 times. 14th: x 1 cerise in next, 7 white, 3 cerise, * 1 white, 2 cerise, * twice, 1 white, 3 cerise, 7 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, x 6 times. 15th: x 1 cerise in next, 11 white, 3 cerise, 1 white, 3 cerise, 11 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, x 6 times. 16th (lightest cerise): x 1 cerise in the same stitch as the last 3, 13 white, 2 cerise, 1 white, 1 cerise, 1 white, 2 cerise, 13 white, 4 cerise in 1, x 6 times. 17th: x 1 cerise in the next, 16 white, 3 cerise (over 1 w., 1 c., 1 w.), 16 white, 1 cerise, 3 in 1, x 6 times. [illustration: lamp mat.] 18th: x 1 cerise on next, 18 white, 1 cerise, 18 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, x 6 times. 19th: x 1 cerise in next, 39 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, x 6 times. 20th: x 1 cerise in 1, 2 white, * 2 cerise, 3 white, * 7 times, 2 cerise, 2 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, x 6 times. 21st: x 1 cerise in next, * 3 white, 2 cerise, * 8 times (the white over white, the cerise over cerise), 3 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, x 6 times. 22nd: x 1 cerise in next, 3 white, * 1 cerise, 2 white over 2 cerise, 1 cerise, 1 white, * 8 times, 2 more white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, x 6 times. 23rd: x 1 cerise in next, 3 white, * 1 cerise, 4 white, * 8 times, 1 cerise, 3 white, 1 cerise, 3 cerise in 1, x 6 times. 24th: entirely cerise, working 3 in 1 at all the 6 points. 25th: white and cerise alternately, a single stitch of each, with 3 in 1 at the points. 26th: all cerise, increasing, as before, at the corners. this completes the centre of the mat. now cover six of the rings with the darkest cerise, 12 with the lightest, 12 with the second lightest, and 24 with white. they are to be done in s.c. the darkest are sewed in the centre of each side of hexagon, with a white at each side, and two more (joined together) above it. the lightest cerise are placed at the points the two being joined together, and one to the mat. these form the extreme points, and the other twelve are placed to connect the lightest rings with the white. the short square bugles are threaded, with some of the beads, to form a cross in the centre of each of the white rings; the other rings have a cross of beads only. all the rings are sewed together, and to the mat. the elegant fringe round the edge is formed of the long steel bugles, connected with each other at the outer edge by a chain of 4 steel beads. the needle is slipped down them to connect them with the rings, and a single bead is threaded at the base of each. the side rings have 6 bugles each, placed at equal distances; the corners have 8; and 1 is placed where every two rings are joined. this mat would be very beautiful if worked in white and shades of green, with gold beads and bugles. * * * * * candle lamp mat. materials.--half-ounce each of stone-colour and shaded violet, 8-thread; half-ounce of shaded amber, 4-thread berlin wool; 4 yards of ordinary sized blind or skirt cord; 77 small curtain rings, the size measuring across five-eighths of an inch; nos. 1 and 2 penelope hook: 2 bunches no. 6 steel beads. with no. 1 hook, and drab wool, work 11 stitches d.c., over the end of the cord; double in as small a circle as possible, unite, and work 2 stitches into every loop for three more rounds. 5th: 1 stitch into every loop. 6th: increase 1 stitch in every 2nd loop. there must be 72 stitches in this round. 7th: place a pin in every 9th loop, and in this same 9th loop work with 8-thread violet, 1 stitch; then 9 stitches drab in the next 8 loops, that is, increasing 1 stitch in about the 4th loop; repeat this all round. 8th: work 3 stitches violet into the 1 violet stitch; then 9 stitches drab, working only 8 stitches in the last compartment, to commence next row. 9th: in the last drab stitch that was not worked into, work 1 violet stitch; then 4 more violet; then 7 drab, increasing 1 in 4th stitch; in the last compartment make only 2 drab after the increased stitch, in order to make 8 violet in next round. 10th: 8 violet, the 1st to come before the 5th violet of last row, and the last to come after the 5th violet, but increasing 1 violet on the 5th stitch; then 7 drab, increasing 1 in the 4th drab stitch. 11th: all violet, increasing 1 in every 5th stitch. 12th. all violet, but without increasing, unless required. the diameter of the mat should now measure 6 inches across, but should it be required larger, another row of cord, or even two, will give the increased size. now d.c. under all the rings, about 30 to 32 stitches for each ring is necessary; unite and tie the knot very neatly, and sew six of these rings round a 7th, sewing them with cotton the colour, and sewing them at the parts where each ring is joined, about 6 stitches in length; be careful that no stitches are seen on the right side; then sew steel beads round the centre ring, taking up 5 to 6 beads at a time on the needle; then place the needle between the joinings of the rings, take upon it about 35 beads, and draw the cotton across to the opposite point; repeat this twice more, the beads will then form as given in engraving; sew the circles of rings on to the mat by two of the rings, and sew the circles together by one ring. any other colour beside amber will do for the rings. if the table cover is scarlet, green wool should be used; if blue, amber; or if green, scarlet or pink. [illustration: candle-lamp mat.] * * * * * hand screen, in crochet. materials.--5 skeins of rich dark blue purse silk, 6 skeins of fine and pure gold thread; penelope hook, no. 18; 2 yards of dark blue silk fringe, 2 inches deep; 2 yards of fine wire, and 3/4 yard of white gros-de-naples. a pair of screen handles. of course silk of any other colour may be used, if blue will not correspond with the furniture. green looks very handsome with gold, and scarlet with silver. the metal thread used must be of the very best description only. begin by making six gold flowers, thus:--26 ch., close in 19th for a round, x 7 ch., s.c. under loop, x twice, 7 ch., slip on the closing of the round--thus there are three loops in the centre one; work under the chain of the first, 1 s.c., 1 d.c., 6 t.c., 1 d.c., 1 s.c. under the centre one 1 s.c., 1 d.c., 9 t.c., 1 d.c., 1 s.c.; and the third loop like the first. slip on the base of the flower, and work down the 19 ch. in s.c. [illustration: hand screen.] six of these flowers are to be made, and afterwards sewed on the silk, radiating from the centre, and each occupying the middle of one side of the hexagon. for the screen (beginning in the centre).--with the blue silk, make a chain of six, and close into a round. 1st: x 1 d.c., 5 ch., miss none, x 6 times. 2nd: x 5 t.c. on 5 ch., 5 ch., miss 1 d.c., x 6 times. 3rd: x 7 t.c. (beginning on the last of 5 ch.), 5 ch., x 6 times. continue in this manner, increasing the t.c. stitches by 2 at each section of the hexagon, in every round, until there are 33 t.c. in each division, always making 5 chain between. then s.c. all round, adding the silk flowers where they occur--that is, over the 8th, 17th, and 26th of the 33 t.c. in each section. the flowers are made in the following mariner:--12 ch., close into a loop at the 7th, 6 ch., s.c. under loop. 8 ch., s.c. under loop, 6 ch., slip at the stem, x 5 ch., s.c. under first loop of 6, x 5 times, * 5 ch., s.c. under the loop of 8, * 7 times, ** 5 ch., s.c. under loop of 6, ** 5 times; s.c. down the chain, and continue the round. the gold flowers are to be worked in the same way, and attached over the centre of each 5 chain which form the corners of the hexagon. work a chain all round, catching up the points of the flowers at regular intervals, and then work two rounds of s.c., with three stitches in one at the points. do all the crochet work of these screens rather tightly. sew on the large gold flowers, passing the ends through the centre loop of the screens, and form a little rosette of x 6 chains, s.c. in the round, x repeated to close the middle. to make up the screens.--cut out a hexagon, the exact size of the crochet, in paper, and bend the wire into the same form. be very particular that the wire frame shall be true and even. cover it on both sides with white silk, over one side of which sew the crochet. it will only require to be fastened round the edges. the fringe must then be laid on, the handles attached, and the screen is completed. if preferred, the back of the screen may be covered with silk of the colour of the crochet, as more durable than white. * * * * * crochet counterpane for a bassinet. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head knitting cords, nos. 12 and 16; 8 oz. of blue beads, large enough to thread on the finest cotton, they should be turquoise blue; crochet hooks, nos. 19 and 20. the centre of the counterpane is made in diamonds, with small pieces at the edges, merely to fill in the parts where the diamonds leave spaces, and form the whole into a solid square. it is done in ribbed crochet. ribbed crochet is so called from the work having the appearance of ridges. it is worked backwards and forwards thus: the top of a row of crochet, whether s.c., d.c., or t.c., presents an appearance of chain stitch; in working ribbed crochet, take up always that side of the chain which is furthest from you. the middle of the counterpane is done in knitting cord, no. 12; crochet hook, no 19. for the diamonds.--(a) make 2 ch., miss 1, 3 s.c. in the next ch. 2nd: turn the work; 1 ch., 1 s.c. in one, 3 s.c. in next, 1 s.c. in third. 3rd: turn, 1 ch., 2 s.c. in second, 3 s.c. in next, 2 s.c. in two last. thus you proceed, turning the work at the end of every row, working 1 s.c. in every one but the middle stitch, in which you work 3, until you have made 15 ribs, and the row has 61 stitches, a chain stitch being made at the beginning of every row. now make 3 ch., on turning, and work 3 d.c. in the first stitch, x miss 2, 3 d.c. in third, x 9 times, miss 1, 3 d.c. in second, 1 ch., miss 1 (which should be at the point), 3 d.c. in second, miss 1, 3 d.c. in second, * miss 2, 3 d.c. in third, * 9 times. this completes the row, the last 3 d.c. coming on the last stitch. [illustration: crochet counterpane for a bassinet.] turn, x 5 ch., d.c. between the sets of 3 d.c. of the last row, x to the end; s.c. only at the last. turn, x 3 ch, s.c. under loop, x to the end but with 5 ch. at the point; another s.c. in the last loop. turn, 2 ch., d.c. in every stitch of last row. turn, 1 ch., s.c. in every stitch of last row; fasten off. this completes one diamond, which for a bassinet quilt will be large enough. for a large counterpane they may be considerably increased. a glance at the engraving will show how they are joined together. for the half diamonds at the side _(b)_ make 2 ch.; work 2 s.c. in the first of these, turn, 1 ch., 1 s.c. in the first of the two of last row, 2 s.c. in the second; turn, 1 ch., 2 s.c. in the first, and 1 in each of the other 2 s.c. of last row. continue working thus, making two in one at the end of one row and the beginning of the next, until there are 31 stitches and 15 ribs. then, for the open part, 2 ch., turn, work 3 d.c. in the first stitch, x miss 2, 3 d.c. in next, x 10 times. 2nd row of open work: turn, x 5 ch., d.c. under the chain between the first and second set of 3 d.c. x repeat to the end of the row; 5 ch., s.c. at the end. 3rd: turn, x 3 ch., s.c. under loop, x repeat to the end. 4th: 2 ch., turn d.c. in every stitch to the end. 5th: 1 ch., turn, s.c. to the end. for the side pieces _(c)_ work in exactly the same manner, only beginning by working thus: 2 ch., turn, 2 s.c. in the first of these, 1 ch., turn, _2 s.c. in the first of the two and 1 in the second_. this is just the reverse of the other, the increase continuing to be made at that edge where the first increases. of course the last row will end at the point of one piece, and the short side of the other. _(d)_ 2 ch., work 3 s.c. in the first of these, 1 ch., turn, 2 s.c. in the first, 3 in the next, 2 in the last. turn, 1 ch.; work this and all the following rows until you have 61 stitches in this manner. 2 s.c. in the first and last stitches, 3 in one in the centre, and 1 in one in every other (increasing 4 stitches in every row). the five open work rows to be done as in _a_. _(e)_ work these pieces like _a_, until 10 ribs are done; then turn and s.c. up to the three centre stitches, _slip_ on the first of the three, x turn, miss the slip stitch, slip on the next, and s.c. to the end; turn, 1 ch., s.c. on all the s.c. but the last, which slip; x repeat between the marks until one stitch only remains, through which the thread is drawn. the other side of the point must then be worked to correspond with the first, the centre stitch not being worked at all. _(f)_ these two morsels are begun like _b_ and _c_, and finished in the same way that _e_ is. they will then exactly fit those corners. the other corners _(g)_ are worked by beginning, as usual, with 2 ch., in the first of which work 3 s.c. x ch., turn, 2 s c. in first and last stitches, and one in each intermediate; x repeating backwards and forwards until 3 stitches are in the row, when complete by open work as in _b_ and _c_. the numbers required of each piece are--_a_, 28; _b_ and _c_, five of each; _d, e, f_, and _g_, two each. (a glance at the engraving will show the manner in which these are joined into an oblong square.) eyelet-hole border.--when all are sewed together, a line of d.c. must be worked all round, with 3 stitches in one at the corners, and two in one on each side of the three. this will make the corners perfectly square. 2nd round: x 1 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1 x; repeat all round, but not missing any at the corners. 3rd: (eyelet-holes). these are to be worked quite separately from the last, at first. x 9 ch., close for a round in the second, and work 8 s.c. under the half, x repeat until a length is done sufficient to surround the square, every little round being half-covered by the s.c. in covering the other half of each circle, you will attach it to the work thus:--4 more s.c. make a ch., slip the needle off the loop, insert it at the corner of second round, and draw the loop through, then 4 s.c. under the remainder of the circle, 1 s.c. on ch. between; x 4 s.c. under next eyelet-hole, miss 2 on the second round, insert the hook in the third, draw the loop through, and work 4 more under the ch.; x repeat, allowing 3 between, except at the corners. 4th: s.c. (putting the hook under both sides of the chain) at the top of an eyelet-hole, x 5 ch., s.c. in the same way under the centre of the next, x all round, with 6 ch. at the corners. 5th: x 1 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, x all round, not missing any at the corners. 6th: s.c. all round, with two stitches in one at the corners. motto borders.--for these use brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head cotton, no. 12, on which the beads must be strung before beginning to work. the borders are done entirely in s.c., the beads being dropped on, according to the pattern, _on the wrong side_, this _wrong_ side being the _right_ when beads are used in crochet. the ends have 241 chain each: the sides, 397. the pattern occupies 55 rows, and the squares at the corners have 55 chain, and the same number of rows. the motto borders and corners are all worked separately, and afterwards sewed together. when completed, the eyelet-hole border is again added all round, and the counterpane then only requires a deep open border. this quilt would be very handsome, if worked in coarser cotton, for a full-sized bed. the small diamonds in the centre would thus be increased in size, and a sufficient number should be done to form a middle just three times the dimensions of that now given. the borders should be worked in open square crochet instead of s.c.; the pattern and letters in close squares on an open ground. it would for this purpose, be requisite to make the chains of three times the number of stitches, and one over: 724 for the ends, 1,192 for the sides, and 166 for the corners. in other respects the counterpane might be worked exactly from the instructions. the family coat-of-arms and crest, correctly drawn, would make a very handsome centre for a counterpane in crochet. where a quilt is done in square crochet, it should be laid over one of the new patent wadded counterpanes of a colour appropriate to the furniture of the room, as this displays the work to great advantage. * * * * * deep border for bassinet quilt. materials.--brooks' knitting cord, nos. 4 and 6; crochet-hook, no. 18. this lace is to be worked round the last eyelet-hole border with no. 6 brooks' cotton. 1st round: s.c. round the edge of the last border, with two stitches in every one for two inches on each side of the corners. 2nd: x 1 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, x all round, but not missing any at the corners. 3rd: like first, but with 2 in 1 for 3 inches round the corners, at the extreme points of which there will be 3 in 1 three times. 4th: begin at a corner. x 2 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 2 d.c., 9 ch., miss 2, x 4 times. then continue along the side, missing 6 instead of 2, until you come to within 41 stitches of the next corner, when you will miss 2 only again, and at the point of the corner miss none. all the sides are to be worked alike. 5th: (begin over the 2nd of the first 2 d.c.) x 2 d.c., 1 ch. (which comes over the 1 d.c.), 2 d.c., 5 ch., 1 d.c. on 5th of 9 ch., 5 ch., x all round. 6th: x 3 d.c. (the second coming over the 1 ch.), 5 ch., 3 d.c. (the second coming over 1 d.c.), 5 ch., x all round. 7th: x 1 d.c. (on the second of the 3 d.c. you began with in last round), 5 ch., miss 4 ch., 2 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1 d.c., 2 d.c., 9 ch., x all round. 8th: (begin on the last chain before the 2 d.c.) x 2 d.c., 1 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c. over 1 ch., 1 ch., miss 1, 2 d.c., 9 ch., x all round. repeat from the 5th to the 8th round, inclusive of both, thrice; then the 5th and 6th again. this will make 18 rounds. 19th: x 1 s.c. on centre of the three d.c. you began the last round with, 6 ch., 2 d.c., 1 ch. (over the middle of 3 d.c.), 2 d.c., 6 ch., x all round. 20th: x 1 s.c. over 1 s.c. 6 ch., 2 d.c., 1 ch., 1 d.c. (over 1 ch. of last round), 1 ch., 2 d.c., 6 ch., x all round. 21st: x 1 slip on s.c., 1 s.c. on first of 6 ch., 7 ch., 2 d.c. (the first over second d.c. of last round), 1 ch. over 1 d.c., 2 d.c., 7 ch., s.c. on last of 6 ch., x all round. 22nd: x s.c. on s.c., 4 ch., d.c. on fourth of 7 ch., 5 ch., 3 d.c. (the second over 1 ch. of last round), 5 ch., 1 d.c. on fourth of 7 ch., 4 ch., s.c. on s.c., x all around. 23rd: x s.c. on s.c., 5 ch., 2 d.c. (the first over 1 d.c. of last round), 5 ch., 1 d.c. over centre of 3 d.c., 5 ch., 2 d.c. (the second over 1 d.c.), 5 ch., s.c. on s.c., x all round. 24th: x s.c. on s.c., 4 ch., 3 d.c. over 2 d.c., 3 ch., miss 2, 3 t.c. on 2 ch., 4 ch., miss 3 (that is, 1 d.c., and 1 ch. on each side of it), 3 t.c. on 2 ch., 3 ch., miss 2, 3 d.c. on 2 d.c., 4 ch., s.c. on s.c., and x all round. 25th: s.c. on 4 ch., * 4 ch., miss none, 4 d.c., * 6 times, 4 ch, miss none, 4 s.c. on 4 chains, x all round. [illustration: deep border for bassinet quilt.] this is the last round. the fringe is then put on thus: wind your cotton (no. 4) twelve times round a card about 2-1/4 inches wide; slip it off, catch up the threads with a crochet-hook, and draw through one of the loops of 4 chain in the last round. when half-way through, pass the other ends through the loop; draw it up tightly, and cut the ends. repeat this for every loop of 4 ch., and the fringe is complete. * * * * * crochet stripe for a bed quilt. [illustration: crochet stripe for a bed quilt] materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton. penelope hook. make 2 stripes of this pattern. all the stripes are worked the short way, and forwards and back. this stripe is about 27-1/2 inches in width; it may be worked to any length, but great care must be taken that it is worked as evenly and tightly as the cotton and hook will permit, each l. stitch must measure in length over two-eighths of an inch, and nearly three-eighths. observe that the cotton must never be cut off, but that every row is worked forwards and back. 1st row: make a chain of about 330 stitches in length, turn back, and work 108 squares. 2nd: turn on reverse side, and observe this at the commencement of every row, work 4 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 9 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 19 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 3rd: 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 21 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l, 4 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 10 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 4th: 4 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 9 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 21 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 17 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 5th: 4 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 22 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 7 sq., 9 l., 9 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 6th: 4 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 17 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 24 l., 5 sq., 27 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 20 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 7th: 4 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 15 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l. 8th: 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 15 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 12 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 9th: 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 14 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 10th: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 12 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 11th: 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 36 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l, 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 10 sq., 36 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 12th: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 9 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 6 l., 9 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 13th: 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 9 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 18 l, 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 18 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 14th: 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 20 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 10 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 15th: 4 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 16 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l. 16th: 4 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 15 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 14 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 17th: 4 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 14 sq., 3 l., 11 sq., 33 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 18th: 4 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 12 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 33 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 9 sq., 3 l., 14 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 19th: 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 26 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 7 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 10 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 20th: 4 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 9 sq., 15 l, 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 26 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 21st: 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 26 sq., 18 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 9 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 22nd: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., 10 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l.,1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l.,1 sq., 9 l., 24 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 23rd: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 33 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l, 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 1., 17 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 24th: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 17 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 30 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 30 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 25th: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 27 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 1., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 16 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 26th: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., 9 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 1., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 25 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 27th: 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 22 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 8 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 28th: 4 l., 1 sq., 15 l.,2 sq., 15 l.,8 sq., 27 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 18 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 29th: 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l, 4 sq., 15 l., 22 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 9 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 30th: 4 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 10 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 17 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 31st: 4 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 11 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 10 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 32nd: 4 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 8 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 15 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 33rd: 4 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 14 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 3 1., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l. 34th: 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 12 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 10 sq., 15 1., 3 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 35th: 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 12 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 11 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 36th: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 10 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 11 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 9 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq. 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 37th: 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 36 l., 7 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 11 sq., 36 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 38th: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 14 sq., 6 1., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l, 5 sq., 12 l, 3 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 1., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 31. 39th: 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 12 sq., 3 l., 14 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 40th: 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 12 sq., 21 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 33 l., 11 sq., 3 l., 14 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 41st: 4 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 19 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 36 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 1., 13 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 31, 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l. 42nd: 4 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 11 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 27 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 24 l., 19 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 43rd: 4 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 16 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 24 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 6 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 9 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 44th: 4 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 8 sq., 18 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 18 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 45th: 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 8 sq., 15 l., 7 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 23 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 46th: 4 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 19 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 18 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 47th: 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 16 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 18 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 48th: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., 21 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 20 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 49th: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 24 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 26 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 50th: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 25 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 21 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 51st: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 25 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 12 sq., 3 l., 25 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 52nd: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., 32 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 18 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 53rd: 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 15 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 12 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 27 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 54th: 4 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 23 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 13 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 55th: 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 16 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 23 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 56th: 4 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 17 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 24 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 12 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 57th: 4 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 16 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 58th: 4 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 13 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 59th: 4 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 11 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 9 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l. 60th: 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 11 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 11 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 61st: 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 30 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 9 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 62nd: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l, 3 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 63rd: 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 36 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 36 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 64th: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 7 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 30 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 65th: 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 7 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 66th: 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 21 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 67th: 4 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 12 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 20 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l. 68th: 4 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 17 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 13 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 69th: 4 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 9 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 12 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 15 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 70th: 4 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 12 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 71st: 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 11 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 16 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 72nd: 4 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 17 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l, 4 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 73rd: 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 14 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 33 l., 24 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 74th: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., 22 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 15 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 75th: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 20 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 27 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 76th: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 26 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 18 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 77th: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 18 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l, 4 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 33 l., 27 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 78th: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., 23 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 14 sq., 6 l., 10 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 79th: 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 23 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 33 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 20 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 80th: 4 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 19 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 32 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 81st: 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 21 sq., 15 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 19 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 82nd: 4 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 16 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 12 sq., 21 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 83rd: 4 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 9 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 24 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 27 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 13 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 84th: 4 l., 2 sq., 15 l, 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 9 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 24 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 11 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l, 2 sq., 3 l. 85th: 4 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 13 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 27 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 6 l, 1 sq., 6 l., 9 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 9 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l. 86th: 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 11 sq., 12 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 27 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 15 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l.,1 sq., 3 l. 87th: 4 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 18 l. 3 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 88th: 4 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 7 sq., 24 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l.; 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l. 89th: 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 36 l., 10 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 9 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 36 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 90th: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 91st: 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 13 sq., 24 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 8 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 92nd: 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 16 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 27 l., 15 sq., 15 l, 3 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 93rd: 4 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 24 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 14 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l. 94th: 4 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 16 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 95th: 4 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 27 l., 14 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 96th: 4 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 14 sq., 30 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l. 97th: 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 15 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 10 sq. 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 17 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 98th: 4 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 16 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 25 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 99th: 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 21 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 11 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 21 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 100th: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 9 sq., 9 l., 36 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 16 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 101st: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l, 23 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 24 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 40 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 102nd: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 37 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 2 sq., 24 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 18 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 103rd: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 17 sq., 33 l., 3 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 37 sq., 3 l., 2 sq. 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 104th: 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., 28 sq., 18 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 10 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 105th: 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 9 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 13 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 18 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l. now repeat from 2nd row until of sufficient length. * * * * * centre stripe for a bed quilt, rose garland pattern. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton. penelope hook. make a chain of about 360 stitches, turn back and work 118 squares. 1st row: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l.,* 21 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 7 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 23 sq. now repeat from * to ** beginning at 15 l., and working these figures backwards, but always ending every row with 3 l. instead of 4 l., this is to make the border both sides alike. 2nd: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., * 15 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 21 sq., repeat from * to **. 3rd: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., * 18 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 30 l., 10 sq., repeat from * to **. 4th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 8 sq., 18 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 17 sq., repeat from * to **. 5th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 17 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 7 sq., repeat from * to **. 6th: ** 4 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 7 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 13 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 17 sq., repeat from * to **. 7th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l.,* 19 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 12 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 7 sq., repeat from * to **. 8th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., * 4 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l, 2 sq., 21 l., 16 sq., repeat from * to **. 9th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 16 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 5 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., repeat from * to **. 10th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 36 l., * 2 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 39 l, 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 9 l., 17 sq., repeat from * to **. 11th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 18 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 39 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., repeat from * to **. 12th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., * 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 24 l., 21 sq., repeat from * to **. 13th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 31 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 8 sq., repeat from * to **. 14th: ** 4 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l, * 9 sq., 3 l, 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 7 sq., 6 l., 1 sq. 18 l., 5 sq., 6 l, 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 27 l., 18 sq., repeat from n * to **. 15th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 16 sq., 42 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 10 sq., repeat from * to **. 16th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 10 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 24 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 12 l., 15 sq., repeat from * to **. [illustration: center stripe for bed quilt.] 17th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., * 15 sq., 30 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 11 sq., repeat from * to **. 18th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., * 15 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 30 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 21 l., 17 sq., repeat from * to **. 19th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 17 sq., 6 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 30 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 13 sq., repeat from * to **. 20th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 13 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 30 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 30 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 16 sq., repeat from * to **. 21st: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., * 17 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 18 l., 5 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 24 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 14 sq., repeat from * to **. 22nd: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., * 20 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 23 sq., repeat from * to **. 23rd: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., * 22 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 20 sq., repeat from * to **. 24th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., * 24 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 23 sq., repeat from * to **. 25th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., * 17 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 6 sq., 30 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 16 sq., repeat from * to **. 26th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 15 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 36 l., 7 sq., 36 l., 16 sq., repeat from * to **. 27th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 16 sq., 27 l., 10 sq., 36 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 11 sq., repeat from * to **. 28th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., * 10 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 29 sq., repeat from * to **. 29th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., * 25 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., repeat from * to **. 30th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 5 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 27 l., 23 sq., repeat from * to **. 31st: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 23 sq., 21 l., 9 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., repeat from * to **. 32nd: ** 4 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 4 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 23 sq., repeat from * to **. 33rd: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 .., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 25 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., repeat from * to **. 34th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., * 5 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 39 l., 7 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 9 sq., 3 l., 11 sq., repeat from * to **. 35th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 8 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 9 sq., repeat from * to **. 36th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 36 l., * 9 sq., 18 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 9 sq., repeat from * to **. 37th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 11 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 24 l., 3 sq., 4 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 8 sq., repeat from * to **. 38th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l, * 9 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., repeat from * to **. 39th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 13 sq., 12 l., 6 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 7 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 91., 1 sq., 3 l., 12 sq., repeat from * to **. 40th: ** 4 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 11 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 7 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l, 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 10 sq., repeat from * to **. 41st: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 7 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 39 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l, 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 11 sq., repeat from * to **. 42nd: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 11 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 15 l, 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 24 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., repeat from * to **. 43rd: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., * 6 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 12 sq., repeat from * to **. 44th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., * 16 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 10 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 7 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 13 sq., repeat from * to **. 45th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 11 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 11 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 16 sq., repeat from * to **. 46th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 17 sq., 18 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 15 sq., repeat from * to **. 47th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., * 15 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 9 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 6 l., 19 sq., repeat from * to **. 48th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., * 29 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 25 sq., repeat from * to **. 49th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., * 26 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 9 l., 30 sq., repeat from * to **. 50th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., * 24 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 30 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 11 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 22 sq., repeat from * to **. 51st: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., * 13 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 17 sq., repeat from * to ** . 52nd: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 22 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 10 sq., 30 l., 13 sq., repeat from * to **. 53rd: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 11 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 10 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 48 l., 20 sq., repeat from * to **. 54th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., * 19 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 39 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l, 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 7 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., repeat from * to ** . 55th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., * 11 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 6 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 15 sq., repeat from * to **. 56th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 12 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 7 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 9 sq., repeat from * to **. 57th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 8 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 7 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 8 sq., repeat from * to **. 58th: ** 4 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 7 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 9 l, 3 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., repeat from * to **. 59th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 11 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 11 sq., repeat from * to **. 60th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., * 11 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., repeat from * to **. 61st: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l, 4 sq., 31., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., repeat from * to **. 62nd: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 36 l., * 10 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 24 l., 11 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., repeat from * to **. 63rd: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 5 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 13 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., repeat from * to **. 64th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., * 5 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 21 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., repeat from * to *** 65th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 9 sq., 3 l., 25 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 48 l., 8 sq., repeat from * to **. 66th: ** 4 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 8 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 25 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., repeat from * to **. 67th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 7 sq., 3 l., 11 sq., 21 l., 8 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., repeat from * to **. 68th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 6 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 19 sq., repeat from * to **. 69th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., * 19 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l, 21 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 9 sq., repeat from * to **. 70th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., * 11 sq., 12 l., 30 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 22 sq., repeat from * to **. 71st: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 22 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 23 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 11 sq., repeat from * to **. 72nd: t 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 10 sq., 6 l, 2 sq., 3 l., 23 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 22 sq., repeat from * to **. 73rd: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., * 23 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 24 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 16 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 11 sq., repeat from * to **. 74th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq. 3 l, * 17 sq., 3 l., 11 sq., 15 1., 6 sq., 36 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 29 sq., repeat from * to **. 75th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., * 28 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 30 l., 4 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 16 sq., repeat from * to **. 76th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., * 28 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 7 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 30 sq., repeat from * to **. 77th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l, 6 sq., 9 l., * 16 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 22 sq., repeat from * to **. 78th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 21 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 30 l., 13 sq., repeat from * to **. 79th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 12 sq., 18 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 21 sq., repeat from * to **. 80th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., * 21 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 9 sq., 3 l., 3 sq. 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 11 sq., repeat from * to **. 81st: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., * 8 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l, 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 18 sq., repeat from * to **. 82nd: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 18 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., repeat from * to **. 83rd: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 6 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 18 sq., repeat from * to **. 84th: ** 4 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 19 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l. 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 6 sq., repeat from * to **. 85th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 6 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 39 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 9 l., 21 sq., repeat from * to **. 86th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., * 19 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 39 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., repeat from * to **. 87th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l, 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 20 sq., repeat from * to **. 88th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 36 l., * 27 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., repeat from * to **. 89th: ** 4 l, 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 6 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 7 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 27 l., 15 sq., repeat from * to **. 90th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., * 14 sq., 42 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 8 sq., repeat from * to **. 91st: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 11 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 15 l, 2 sq., 24 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 12 l., 16 sq., repeat from * to **. 92nd: ** 4 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 14 sq., 30 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 10 sq., repeat from * to **. 93rd: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 11 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 30 l, 2 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l, 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l, 1 sq., 3 l, 4 sq., 24 l., 13 sq., repeat from * to **. 94th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 13 sq., 6 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 30 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 9 sq., repeat from * to **. 95th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l, 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., * 10 sq., 9 l, 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 30 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 30 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 13 sq., repeat from * to **. 96th: ** 4 l, 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., * 16 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 18 l., 5 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 24 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 13 sq. repeat from * to **. 97th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 13 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 16 sq., repeat from * to **. 98th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 16 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 14 sq., repeat from * to **. 99th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., * 18 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 20 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 17 sq., repeat from * to **. 100th: ** 4 l, 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., * 23 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 6 sq., 30 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 22 sq., repeat from * to **. 101st: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., * 21 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 36 l., 7 sq., 36 l., 22 sq., repeat from * to **. 102nd: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., * 23 sq., 27 l., 10 sq., 36 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 18 sq., repeat from * to **. 103rd: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., * 11 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l, 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 30 sq., repeat from * to **. 104th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 28 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 9 sq., repeat from * to **. 105th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 9 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 27 l., 27 sq., repeat from * to **. 106th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq. 15 l., * 27 sq., 21 l., 9 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., repeat from * to **. 107th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., * 5 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 24 sq., repeat from * to **. 108th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 24 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., repeat from * to **. 109th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 7 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 39 l., 7 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 9 sq., 3 l., 13 sq., repeat from * to **. 110th: ** 4 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 11 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 12 sq., repeat from * to **. 111th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 13 sq., 18 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 13 sq., repeat from * to **. 112th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., * 12 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 24 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 9 sq., repeat from * to **. 113th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 8 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., repeat from * to **. 114th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 36 l., * 9 sq., 12 l., 6 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 7 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., repeat from * to **. 115th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 8 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 7 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 7 sq., repeat from * to **. 116th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., * 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 39 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 9 sq., repeat from* to **. 117th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 12 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 24 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., repeat from * to **. 118th: ** 4 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 5 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 13 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 11 sq., repeat from * to **. 119th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 12 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 10 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 7 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., repeat from * to **. 120th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 7 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 11 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 12 sq., repeat from * to **. 121st: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., * 14 sq., 18 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., * 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 12 sq., repeat from * to **. 122nd: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., * 14 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 9 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 6 l., 18 sq., repeat from * to **. 123rd: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 22 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 18 sq., repeat from * to **. 124th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 20 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 9 l., 24 sq., repeat from * to **. 125th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., * 18 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 30 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 11 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 16 sq., repeat from * to **. 126th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., * 19 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 23 sq., repeat from * to **. 127th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., * 28 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 10 sq., 30 l., 19 sq., repeat from * to **. 128th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., * 18 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 10 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 48 l., 27 sq., repeat from * to **. 129th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., * 20 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 39 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 7 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 11 sq., repeat from * to **. 130th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 14 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 18 sq., repeat from * to **. 131st: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 16 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 7 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 13 sq., repeat from * to **. 132nd: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., * 12 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 7 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 12 sq., repeat from * to **. 133rd: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., * 8 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 11 sq., repeat from * to **. 134th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 10 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., repeat from * to **. 135th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 13 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 8 sq., repeat from * to **. 136th: ** 4 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 7 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 13 sq., repeat from * to **. 137th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 14 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 24 l., 11 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 10 sq., repeat from * to **. 138th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., * 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 13 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 11 sq., repeat from * to **. 139th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 4 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 21 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., repeat from * to **. 140th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 36 l., * 5 sq., 3 l., 25 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 48 l., 4 sq., repeat from * to **. 141st: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 25 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., repeat from * to **. 142nd: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., * 5 sq., 3 l., 11 sq., 21 l., 8 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., repeat from * to **. 143rd: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 7 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 20 sq., repeat from * to **. 144th: ** 4 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., * 18 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 3 l. 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 21 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 8 sq., repeat from * to **. 145th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 7 sq., 12 l., 30 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 18 sq., repeat from * to **. 146th: ** 4 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 18 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 23 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 7 sq., repeat from * to **. 147th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., * 10 sq., 3 l., 11 sq., 15 l., 6 sq., 36 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 22 sq., repeat from * to **. 148th: ** 4 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., * 22 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 30 l., 4 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., repeat from * to **. now repeat from first row. * * * * * handkerchief case for hanging to the head of a bed. materials.--use brook's great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton. no. 4 penelope hook; 1 long strip of whalebone; 1 yard of satin ribbon 1 inch in width. 2 yards ditto, 2 or 3 inches wide. 1st row: make a chain of 261 stitches, turn back, and work 87 squares. 2nd: turn back, and work another row of squares. 3rd: turn back 8 sq., 5 l., 22 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 24 l., 21 sq., 9 l., 6 sq. the cotton must now be cut off at every row. 4th: 7 sq., 12 l., 10 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 8 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 5 sq. 5th: 7 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq. 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 5 sq. 6th: 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 5 sq. 7th: 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 6 sq. 8th: 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq. 9th: 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 8 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq. 10th: 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq. 11th: 6 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq. 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq. 12th: 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 8 sq. 13th: 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 4 sq. 14th: 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 4 sq. [illustration: handkerchief case, for hanging to the head of a bed.] 15th: 4 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 18 l, 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 8 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 5 sq. 16th: 5 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 24 l., 21 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 24 l., 7 sq. 17th: 8 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 54 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 5 sq. 18th: 7 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 48 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 5 sq. 19th: 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 49 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 5 sq. 20th: 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 54 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 4 sq. 21st: 5 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 58 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 5 sq. 22nd: 4 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 58 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq. 23rd: 5 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 58 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq. 24th: 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 15 sq., 3 l., 40 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 7 sq. 25th: 6 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 15 sq., 3 l., 41 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 8 sq. 26th: 6 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 17 sq., 3 l., 42 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 5 sq. 27th: 7 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 2 sq. 6 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l.; 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 4 sq. 28th: 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l, 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 3 sq. 29th: 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq. 30th: 3 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq. 31st: 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 6 sq. 32nd: 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 21 sq., 3 l., 22 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq. 33rd: 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 18 sq., 3 l., 22 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq. 34th: 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 12 sq., 3 l., 22 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq. 35th: 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 15 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 23 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq. 36th: 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 15 sq., 6 l., 24 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq. 37th: 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 41 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 7 sq. 38th: 2 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 41 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 6 sq., 12 l., 7 sq. 39th: 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 62 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 6 sq. 40th: 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 65 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 3 sq. 41st: 7 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 56 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq. 42nd: 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 56 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 6 sq. 43rd: 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 58 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 4 sq. 44th: 5 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 58 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 5 sq. 45th: 4 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 54 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq. 46th: 5 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 49 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq. 47th: 5 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 48 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 7 sq. 48th: 5 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 54 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 8 sq. 49th: 7 sq., 24 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 21 sq., 24 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 5 sq. 50th: 5 sq., 18 l., 3 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 18 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 4 sq. 51st: 4 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 6 l.,1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 3 sq. 52nd: 4 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 6 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq. 53rd: 8 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq. 54th: 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 6 sq. 55th: 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq. 56th: 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq. 57th: 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 3 l, 2 sq. 58th: 6 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l, 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 9 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq. 59th: 5 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 24 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq. 60th: 5 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 7 sq. 61st: 5 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 18 l., 3 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 10 sq., 12 l., 7 sq. 62nd: 6 sq., 9 l., 21 sq., 24 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 22 sq., 6 l., 8 sq. 63rd: 1 row of squares. 64th: turn back, 4 double l., made by first twisting the cotton twice over the hook, then 4 double long to come in the 1st 4 loops, which will exactly fill up the 4 loops over 1st sq., then 5 ch., miss 2 squares, 4 more double long in the 4th loop of next sq., repeat, the row will end with 1 long stitch, turn back. 65th: 5 d.c. under the 5 ch., 4 ch., repeat. this forms the front of the case. for the back: commence on the wrong side of the foundation chain, and work 41 rows of squares, then work as at 42nd row, and continue working till the end of 62nd row. now 2 rows of squares. now a row of double long stitches the same as the row on the other end. turn back. 1 double l. on l., * 5 ch., 4 double l. on the l., repeat from *. now a row of long stitches, not double long. now work 3 d.c. into every space up both sides, then crochet both sides together on the right side, by working 1 d.c. stitch into every loop of both sides, first doubling it at the foundation chain, consequently the back will be a trifle higher than the front. now, up the side and along the top of the back, work thus: 1 l. in 1st loop, * 9 ch., 1 l. into 7th loop, repeat from * and at each corner make 2 l. into 1 loop, with 9 ch. between each l. next row, 9 d c. under every 9 ch. cover 2 strips of narrow whalebone the exact length of the back of the case, with coloured ribbon, and run it into the 2 open rows; for the front, cut a length of whalebone two inches longer than the pieces for the back, and run in the front row, then add ribbon and bow as in engraving. * * * * * watch pocket. materials.--3 shades of scarlet, the lightest to be a very bright military scarlet, 1 skein of the darkest, 2 of each of the lighter shades; 4 skeins of bright maize colour; skein of shaded violet; 1 skein of shaded scarlet; 3 shades of green; 1 skein of each shade, the darkest to be very dark, and the lightest to be very light; 2 shades of sky-blue, 1 skein of each; 1 skein of white; all 4 thread berlin wool; 24 curtain rings, the size of a fourpenny-piece, or a trifle larger; 4 yards of blind cord; 1-1/4 yards of scarlet satin ribbon, half an inch in width, or covered curtain rings will answer the same purpose. no. 2 penelope hook. with darkest scarlet work, 14 d.c. stitches over the cord, then turn the cord round in as small a circle as possible, unite and work 3 rows with this shade, increasing in the two rows after the 1st, 1 stitch in every loop; then 4th, 5th, and 6th rows, of next shade, increasing as may be required; 7th, 8th, and 9th rows of next shade, increasing the same. 10th row.--4 stitches maize, 4 stitches violet. [illustration: watch pocket.] 11th row.--all violet; there should be 150 stitches in this row. cut off the cord, and fasten it nearly, also the wool. the mat should now measure 4-1/4 inches across. count 42 stitches from where the cord was cut of, counting towards the right hand, work on the cord, with shaded scarlet, beginning at the 42nd stitch, 21 d.c. stitches; then turn on reverse side, and turn back every row, working ridged crochet, and, at the end of each row, instead of working an extra stitch, as is usually done in a straight piece of ridged crochet, to prevent its decreasing, omit the stitch, and by so doing, each row will be decreased 1 stitch till it comes to a point; work 3 more of these points, then, with the same wool, sew these up from the bottom to the point, sewing them flat on the finger, not seaming them, and sewing all the points strongly together at the top that they may not give way; this forms the pocket. now take some elastic, such as is worn for sandals for shoes, it would be better to procure it 4 rows of india rubber wide instead of 2; with the point of the scissors, push the end through to the wrong side, between the 2 last rows of cord, and close to the broad end of the point, sew this end firmly on to the cord on the wrong side with black cotton, but very neatly; now draw the long end straight across the front to the opposite side, not drawing it too tight, or allowing it to be too loose push the end through on this side the same as the other, and sew it at the back in the same manner. now, with black thread sew the pocket to the elastic, so that neither this nor the stitches are seen. rings with maize wool.--d.c. under the rings all round, 34 stitches will be about sufficient to cover the ring well, unite, and tie the ends in a knot neatly, then, with maize colour cotton, sew the rings round, attaching them by the part where the wool was joined; now sew the rings together, be careful that not a stitch is seen through on the right side. for the flowers.--with white wool make 9 ch. tightly, unite, and under this circle work 11 l. with 1 ch. between each, cut off the white. tie on with a weaver's knot the lightest blue, work 1 l. under each 1 ch., with 1 ch. between each, only let there be 12 l. instead of 11. next shade blue. work this row rather loosely, d.c. under every 1 ch., then 1 ch., repeat; at the end draw down the end of blue wool, and tie it to the end of white; make 4 flowers this size, which should not be larger than the size of a sixpence. now make 2 of larger size, working them exactly the same, only making 14 l. stitches of the white, and 15 l. stitches of the blue; now, with white wool sew on the two largest flowers on the centre seam of the pocket, then the 2 smaller ones on each side. for the leaves.--with darkest green make 8 ch., turn back, work 7 d.c. down, join on the next green; work 3 d.c. up, 4 l., and 4 l., into the top loop, 1 ch., 4 more l. into same loop, 4 l. down, 3 d.c., join on the lightest shade: work d.c. all round, and 3 d.c. into the 1 ch, but enclosing a wire pulled from white ribbon wire, taking care to bend the end of the wire back after the 1st and last stitch to prevent its slipping; make 6 of these leaves, arrange them as in engraving, and with dark green wool sew them on. to prevent the pocket from curving, cover a narrow piece of whalebone the length with scarlet ribbon, and sew it across the centre on the wrong side. * * * * * toilet sachet. materials.--three-quarters of a pound of brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head knitting cord no. 16; and tapered indented crochet hook, no. 20. a yard of pink or blue ingrain gingham. this article, made in the form of an envelope, is intended to hold the night-dress and cap, and lies on the pillow during the day, forming an elegant appendage to the drapery. the lining should, of course, be of a tint to suit the rest of the furniture, and may be of silk, if preferred; but, as gingham will wash with the cotton, it is less troublesome. the sachet is worked in crochet, the edging in knitting, for which the receipt will afterwards be given. make a chain of 285 stitches, with three more, which you will twist; miss these three, and work in d.c. along the row. break off at the end. 2nd row: d.c., working on the third of the three chain at the beginning of the row, as if it were a d.c. stitch. observe, that as there are bits of thread left at the ends of each row, they should be worked in at the next, which may easily be done, as there are two close squares at the beginning and end of every row. 3rd: 2 close squares; then open squares till you come to within 7 d.c. of the end. finish with 2 close squares. 4th _(b)_ 2 close, 19 open, 4 close, 20 open, _(a)_ 5 close. 5th: _(b)_ 2 close, 14 open, 2 close, 2 open, 6 close, 17 open, _(a)_ 9 close. 6th: _(b)_ 2 close, 13 open, 4 close, 1 open, 6 close, 15 open, _(a)_ 13 close. [illustration: toilet sachet.] 7th: _(b)_ 2 close, 8 open, 2 close, 2 open, 14 close, 12 open, 5 close, _(a)_ 5 open. 8th: _(b)_ 2 close, 7 open, 4 close, 1 open, 15 close, 10 open, 5 close, _(a)_ 7 open. 9th: _(b)_ 2 close, 3 open, 8 close, 1 open, 16 close, 8 open, 6 close, 2 open, _(a)_ 3 close. 10th: _(b)_ 2 close, 2 open, 2 close, 3 open, 10 close, 6 open, 5 close, 7 open, 7 close, 1 open, _(a)_ 5 close. 11th: _(b)_ 2 close, 1 open, 6 close, 1 open, 8 close, 1 open, 6 close, 1 open, 4 close, 7 open, 7 close, 1 open, 2 close, _(a)_ 1 open. 12th: _(b)_ 2 close, 4 open, 4 close, 1 open, 6 close, 1 open, 8 close, 1 open, 3 close, 6 open, 8 close, 1 open, 2 close, _(a)_ 1 open. 13th: (b) 2 close, 5 open, 4 close, 1 open, 4 close, 1 open, 3 close, 4 open, 5 close, 3 open. 1 close, 2 open, 8 close, 1 open, 2 close, (a) 3 open. 14th: (b) 2 close, 6 open, 4 close, 1 open, 2 close, 1 open, 3 close, 6 open, 3 close, 4 open. 5 close, 1 open, 5 close, 1 open, 2 close, (a) 3 open. 15th: (b) 2 close, 5 open, 5 close, x 1 open, 2 close, x twice, 14 open, * 5 close, 1 open, * twice, 2 close, (a) 3 open. 16th: (b) 2 close, 4 open, 7 close, 1 open, 1 close, 1 open, 2 close, 15 open, 3 close, 2 open, 4 close, 1 open, 2 close, (a) 5 open. 17th: (b) 2 close, 6 open, 5 close, 1 open, 1 close, 1 open, 2 close, 20 open, 4 close, 1 open, 2 close, (a) 5 open. 18th: (b) 2 close, 7 open, 4 close, 1 open, 1 close, 1 open, 2 close, 19 open, 4 close, 1 open, 2 close, (a) 7 open. 19th: (b) 2 close, 8 open, 4 close, 2 open, 2 close, 11 open, 3 close, 5 open, 4 close, 1 open, 2 close, (a) 7 open. 20th: (b) 2 close, 8 open, 4 close, 2 open, 2 close, 9 open, 4 close, 5 open, 4 close, 1 open, 2 close, (a) 9 open. 21st: (6) 2 close, 9 open, 4 close, 1 open, 3 close, 7 open, 4 close, 5 open, 4 close, 1 open, 3 close, (a) 4 open, 3 close, 2 open. 22nd: (b) 2 close, 10 open, 3 close, 1 open, 4 close, 5 open, 6 close, 3 open, 4 close, 1 open, 3 close, (a) 3 open, 3 close, 1 open, 2 close, 2 open. 23rd: (b) 2 close, 11 open, 3 close, 1 open, 4 close, 5 open, 11 close, 1 open, 3 close, 3 open, 1 close, 1 open, 1 close, (a) 1 open. 24th: (b) 2 close, 6 open, 8 close, 2 open, 18 close, 1 open, 4 close, 3 open, 1 close, 1 open, 1 close, (a) 1 open. 25th: (b) 2 close, 5 open, 11 close, 2 open, 14 close, 2 open, 4 close, 3 open, 2 close, 1 open, 1 close, (a) 1 open. 26th: (b) 2 close, 4 open, 13 close, 2 open, 11 close, 3 open, 5 close, 3 open, 4 close, (a) 1 open. 27th: (b) 2 close, 3 open, 4 close, 7 open, 4 close, 3 open, 7 close, 4 open, 5 close, 3 open, (a) x 2 close, 1 open, x 3 times, 2 close. 28th: (b) 2 close, 2 open, 4 close, 22 open, 2 close, 1 open, 5 close, 4 open, 2 close, 1 open, 1 close, (a) 3 open. 29th: (b) 2 close, 1 open, 4 close, 1 open, 15 close, 2 open, 5 close, 3 open, 4 close, 4 open, 2 close, 1 open, 2 close, (a) 3 open. 30th: (b) 2 close, 1 open, 3 close, 1 open, 15 close, 2 open, 4 close, 2 open, 6 close, 5 open, 2 close, 1 open, (a) 3 close, 2 open, 2 close. 31st: (b) 2 close, x 1 open, 3 close, x twice, 5 open, 5 close, 2 open, 5 close, 1 open, 7 close, 5 open, 2 close, 1 open, 2 close, 2 open, (a) 1 close. 32nd: (b) 2 close, x 1 open, 2 close, x twice, 5 open, 5 close, 2 open, 6 close, 1 open, 7 close, 5 open, 3 close, 1 open, 2 close, 2 open, (a) 1 close. 33rd: (b) 2 close, 2 open, 4 close, 4 open, 6 close, 2 open, 5 close, 1 open, 7 close, 5 open, 3 close, 1 open, 2 close, 3 open, (a) 1 close. 34th: (b) 2 close, 2 open, 3 close, 3 open, 6 close, 3 open, 5 close, 1 open, 8 close, 4 open, 3 close, 1 open, 3 close, (a) 4 open, 1 close, 2 open. 35th: (b) 2 close, 3 open, 1 close, 3 open, 5 close, 4 open, x 5 close, 1 open, x twice, 2 close, 4 open, 3 close, 1 open, 3 close, (a) 5 open, 1 close, 3 open. 36th: (b) 2 close, 6 open, 5 close, 1 open, 2 close, 2 open, 4 close, 2 open, 4 close, 3 open, 1 close, 2 open, 4 close, 1 open, 4 close, (a) 5 open, 1 close, 3 open. 37th: (_b_) 2 close, 5 open, 4 close, 2 open, 3 close, x 1 open, 5 close, x twice, 5 open, 4 close, 1 open, 4 close, 3 open, (_a_) 3 close, 1 open, 1 close. 38th: (_b_) 2 close, 4 open, 4 close, 1 open, 4 close, 1 open, 6 close, 1 open, 4 close, 5 open, 3 close, 2 open, 4 close, (_a_) 2 open, 8 close, 3 open. 39th: (_b_) 2 close, 4 open, 3 close, 1 open, 5 close, 1 open, 3 close, x 1 open, 2 close, x twice, 1 open, 1 close, 4 open, 3 close, 1 open, 6 close, (_a_) 1 open, 2 close, 2 open, 2 close, 1 open, 3 close, 2 open. 40th: (_b_) 2 close, 3 open, 4 close, 1 open, 5 close, 1 open, 2 close, 2 open, 5 close, 5 open, 3 close, 1 open, 6 close, (_a_) 1 open, 2 close, 1 open, 7 close, 4 open, 1 close, 1 open, 2 close, 2 open. 41st: (_b_) 2 close, 3 open, 3 close, 1 open, 6 close, 1 open, 2 close, 2 open., 5 close, 5 open, 2 close, 1 open, 6 close, (_a_) 1 open, 2 close, 1 open, 7 close, 1 open, 2 close, 3 open. 42nd: (_b_) 2 close, 2 open, 3 close, 1 open, 6 close, 1 open, 3 close, 3 open, 3 close, 5 open, 2 close, 1 open, 6 close, (_a_) 2 open, 2 close, 1 open, 4 close, 1 open, 2 close, 1 open, 3 close, 3 open. 43rd (_b_) 2 close, 2 open, 2 close, 1 open, 7 close, 1 open, 3 close, 4 open, 3 close, 4 open, 2 close, 1 open, 4 close, 3 open, (_a_) 2 close, 1 open, 5 close, 1 open, 3 close, 1 open, 2 close, 5 open. 44th: (_b_) 2 close, 2 open, 4 close, 1 open, 5 close, 1 open, 3 close, 11 open, 4 close, (_a_) 6 open, 2 close, 1 open, 4 close, 2 open, x 1 close, 1 open, x twice, 2 close, 8 open. 45th: (_b_) 2 close, 2 open, 3 close, 2 open, 4 close, 1 open, 5 close, 10 open, 2 close, 2 open, 2 close, (_a_) 3 open, 2 close, 1 open, 4 close, x 1 open, 1 close, x 3 times, 1 open, 2 close, 6 open. 46th: (_b_) x 2 close, 2 open, x twice, 4 close, 2 open, 6 close, 9 open, 1 close, 2 open, 2 close, (_a_) 4 open, 2 close, 1 open, 3 close, * 1 open, 3 close, * twice, 2 open, 2 close, 7 open. 47th: (_b_) 2 close, 3 open, 1 close, 2 open, 3 close, 1 open, 1 close, 1 open, 7 close, 9 open, 4 close, (_a_) 4 open, 2 close, 1 open, 3 close, x 1 open, 2 close, x twice, 1 open, 3 close, 7 open. 48th: (_b_) 2 close, 5 open, 3 close, 1 open, x 2 close, 1 open, x twice, 3 close, 9 open, 4 close, (_a_) 6 open, 1 close, 1 open, 3 close, 1 open, 2 close, 1 open, 1 close, 2 open, 2 close, 9 open. 49th: (_b_) 2 close, 4 open, x 3 close, 1 open, x twice, 2 close, 13 open, 4 close, (_a_) 7 open, 1 close, 1 open, 6 close, 2 open, 3 close, 9 open. 50th: 2 close, 4 open, 2 close, 1 open, 4 close, 1 open, 2 close, 7 open, 1 close, 5 open, 3 close, (_a_) 8 open, 2 close, 1 open, 3 close, 2 open, 1 close, 1 open, 2 close, 11 open. 51st: (_b_) 2 close, 4 open, 4 close, 1 open, 2 close, 1 open, 3 close, 5 open, 2 close, 6 open, 3 close, (_a_) 8 open, 2 close, 3 open, 3 close, 1 open, 1 close, 11 open. 52nd: (_b_) 2 close, 5 open, x 2 close, 2 open, x twice, 3 close, 3 open, 3 close, (_a_) 19 open, 3 close, 1 open, 1 close, 23 open. 53rd: (_b_) 2 close, 6 open, 3 close, 2 open, 3 close, 2 open, 7 close, (_a_) 49 open. 54th: (_b_) 2 close, 10 open, 3 close, 4 open, 4 close, (_a_) 49 open. 55th: (_b_) 2 close, 11 open, 9 close, (_a_) 51 open. 56th: (_b_) 2 close, 12 open, 7 close (_a_) 53 open. 57th: 2 close, 13 open, 4 close, 57 open, 4 close, 13 open, 2 close. 58th to 78th row inclusive: 2 close squares at each end, and the intermediate all open squares. finish with two rows double crochet. two of these pieces are required. for the pointed piece.--as the narrow edging with which this is trimmed is added at the sides, the piece itself is not so wide as that already given. make a chain of 268 stitches, and work on one row in d.c. the second is also worked in d.c., but diminished two squares at each end, thus: begin on the second d.c. stitch, slip 2, s.c. 2, d.c. till you come to within five of the end, then s.c. 2, slip 2. decrease the next and all succeeding rows one square at each end, by working on the first four d.c. stitches of the row 1 slip, 2 s.c., 1 d.c., after which three more d.c., the other end being made to correspond. the row succeeding the two of d.c. is entirely in open square crochet, except these 7 stitches at the ends. 4th row: (_b_) 1 slip, 2 s.c., 4 d.c., 31 open squares, 3 close, 4 open, (_a_) 3 close. (observe that in this and all the following rows, the first open square comes over the second of the preceding line. the first and last 7 stitches are not mentioned, as they occur in every row). 5th: (_b_) 28 open, 2 close, 3 open, 1 close, 2 open, 1 close, (_a_) 3 open. 6th: (_b_) 24 open, 3 close, 6 open, 1 close, 1 open, 1 close, (_a_) 3 open. 7th: (_b_) 23 open, 1 close, 9 open, 1 close, 1 open, (_a_) 3 close. 8th: 21 open, 1 close, 27 open, 1 close, 21 open. 9th: here the initial begins. i have chosen an m as being a common letter; any other may be substituted; care being taken to place it in the exact centre of the space indicated between the brackets. 19 open, 1 close, [7 open, 1 close, 2 open, 2 close, 3 open, 3 close, 11 open,] 1 close, 19 open. 10th: 12 open, 3 close, 3 open, 1 close, [8 open, 3 close, 1 open, 1 close, 1 open, 2 close, 2 open, 1 close, 10 open,] 1 close, 3 open, 3 close, 12 open. 11th: 10 open, 1 close, 3 open, 1 close, 1 open, 1 close, [10 open, 1 close, x 3 open, 2 close, x twice, 10 open,] 1 close, 1 open, 1 close, 3 open, 1 close, 10 open. 12th: 9 open, x 1 close, 2 open, x twice, 1 close, [10 open, 2 close, 2 open, 2 close, 1 open, 1 close, 1 open, 3 close, 9 open,] 1 close, * 2 open, 1 close, * twice, 9 open. 13th: 9 open, 1 close, 3 open, 1 close, [11 open, 2 close, 2 open, 3 close, 2 open, 2 close, 11 open,] 1 close, 3 open, 1 close, 9 open. 14th: 9 open, 3 close, [12 open, x 2 close, 2 open, x twice, 3 close, 12 open,] 3 close, 9 open. 15th: 8 open, 3 close, [12 open, 2 close, 1 open, 3 close, 2 open, 2 close, 1 open, 1 close, 11 open,] 3 close, 8 open. 16th: 6 open, 1 close, 3 open, 1 close, [11 open, x 2 close, 2 open, x twice, 2 close, 12 open,] 1 close, 3 open, 1 close, 6 open. 17th: 4 open, x 1 close, 2 open, x twice, 1 close, [10 open, 2 close, 2 open, 2 close, 3 open, 1 close, 11 open,] * 1 close, 2 open, * twice, 1 close, 4 open. 18th: x 3 open, 1 close, x twice, 1 open, 1 close, [7 open, 1 close, x 2 open, 2 close, x twice, 1 open, 1 close, 2 open, 1 close, 10 open,] 1 close, 1 open, x 1 close, 1 open, x twice. 19th: 3 open, 3 close, 3 open, 1 close, [7 open, 4 close, 2 open, 2 close, 2 open, 1 close 2 open, 3 close, 6 open,] 1 close, 3 open, 3 close, 3 open. 20th: 8 open, 1 close, [8 open, 2 close, 2 open, 2 close, 4 open, 3 close, 2 open, 1 close, 5 open,] 1 close, 8 open. this is the last row of the letter. 21st: 8 open, 1 close, 27 open, 1 close, 8 open. 22nd: (_b_) 8 open, 1 close, 9 open, 1 close, 1 open (_a_) 3 close. 23rd: (_b_) 7 open, 3 close, 6 open, 1 close, 1 open, 1 close, (_a_) 3 open. 24th: (_b_) 9 open, 2 close, 3 open, 1 close, 2 open, 1 close, (_a_) 3 open. 25th: (_b_) 10 open, 3 close, 4 open, (_a_) 3 close. 26th: open square crochet, except the ends. 27th: all d.c. it will be remembered that when the letters _b a_ occur, the stitches between are to be repeated backwards, those following the _a_ being the centre of the line, whether few or many. the knitted edgings for trimming this sachet are given separately; the narrow one trims the point, which is then sewed to the top of one of the squares; the two squares are then sewed together at the bottom and sides, and the broad lace goes all round. the whole is lined with silk or gingham. * * * * * a lady's nightcap in crochet. materials.--3 reels no. 20 brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton. no. 4 penelope hook. make 386 chain, turn back, work 1 l., 2 ch., 1 l. into 3rd loop, make 138 squares. 2nd row: insertion.--6 sq., * 9 l., 3 sq., repeat from *, end with 9 sq. [illustration: a lady's nightcap. ] 3rd: decrease a sq. by d.c. on 1st l. stitch, 3 ch., 1 l. on 2nd l., then 6 sq., * 9 l., 3 sq., repeat from *, end with 7 sq., decrease a sq. 4th: decrease a sq., then 6 sq., * 9 l., 3 sq., repeat from *, end with 5 sq., decrease a sq. 5th: decrease a sq., then 2 sq., * 9 l., 3 sq., these 3 sq., should come over the 9 l. of last row, repeat from *, end with 1 sq., decrease a sq. 6th: 1 sq., * 9 l., 3 sq., repeat from *, end with 3 sq. 7th: * 9 l., 3 sq., repeat from *, end with 4 sq. 8th and 9th: 2 rows of squares. 10th: decrease a sq., then 8 sq., 5 ch., 1 l. under every 2 ch. till within 9 squares of the end, then 8 sq., decrease a sq. 11th: decrease a sq., then 7 sq., 5 ch., 1 l. under every 5 ch., then 7 sq., decrease a sq. 12th: 7 sq., 5 ch., 1 l. under every 5 ch., 7 sq. 13th: decrease a sq., then 6 sq., 5 ch., 1 l. under every 5, 6 sq., decrease a sq. 14th: 6 sq., work as before, end with 6 sq. 15th: decrease a sq., 5 sq., work as before, then 5 sq., decrease a sq. 16th: 5 sq., 1 l. under every 5 ch., with 2 ch. between each 5 sq. 17th and 18th: 2 rows of squares. 19th: begin with 6 sq., then work the same as at 1st row of insertion, and end with 9 sq. 20th: begin with 7 sq., work as 2nd row of insertion, end with 10 sq. 21st: begin with 8 sq., work as 3rd row of insertion, end with 5 sq. 22nd: begin with 5 sq., work as 4th row of insertion, end with 5 sq. 23rd: begin with 4 sq., work as 5th row of insertion, end with 6 sq. 24th: begin with 3 sq., work as 6th row of insertion, end with 7 sq. 25th, 26, and 27th: 3 rows of squares. to slope the back of the cap.--begin on the right side of the work, under the 1st 2 ch., work 2 l. with 2 ch. between each, then 2 ch., 1 l. on next l., this must be carefully attended to, otherwise 1 stitch will be lost; after this, work 38 sq., then 2 ch., d.c. on next l., turn on reverse side, 3 ch., d.c. on 1st l., then 2 ch., 1 l. on next l., then 38 sq., 2 ch., 1 l. under the last 2 ch., 2 ch., 1 more l. under same, turn on reverse side, 5 ch., 1 l., under the 1st 2 ch., 2 ch., 1 l. on next l.; after this, work 16 sq., 2 ch., d.c. on next l., turn on reverse side, 3 ch., d.c. on 1st l., 2 ch., d.c. on next l., 2 ch., 1 l. on next l.; after this, work 15 sq., 2 ch., 1 l. into the 5 ch. at the end, turn on reverse side, 5 ch., 1 l. under 1st 2 ch. 2 ch., 1 l. on next l.; after this, work 8 sq., 2 ch., d.c. on next l., turn on reverse side, 3 ch., d.c. on 1st l., 2 ch., 1 l. on next l.; after this, work 8 sq., 2 ch., 1 l. under the 5 ch., turn on reverse side, 5 ch., 1 l., under 2 ch., 2 ch., 1 l. on 1st l.; after this, work 5 sq., 2 ch., d.c. on next l., turn on reverse side, 3 ch., d.c. on 1st l., 2 ch., 1 l. on next l.; after this, work 5 sq., 2 ch., 1 l. under 5 ch., turn on reverse side, 5 ch., 1 l. under 2 ch., 2 ch., 1 l. on next l.; after this, work 3 sq., 2 ch., d.c. on next l., turn on reverse side, 3 ch., d.c. on 1st l., 2 ch., 1 l. on next l.; after this, work 3 sq., 2 ch., 1 l. under the 5 ch., turn on reverse side, 5 ch., 1 l. under the 2 ch., 2 ch., 1 l. on next l.; after this, work 2 sq., 2 ch., d.c. on next l., turn on reverse side, 3 ch., d.c. on 1st l., 2 ch., 1 l. on next l.; after this, work 2 sq., 2 ch., 1 l. under 5 ch., turn on reverse side, 5 ch., 1 l. under 2 ch., 2 ch., 1 l. on next l.; after this, work 1 sq., 2 ch., d.c. on next l. this finishes the slope on one side; now slope the other side the same, only beginning on the wrong side of the work instead of the right. now crochet the two sides together, and under every space, and under the chain stitches which form the slope, all round and where the crown is to be sewed in, work 2 d.c. stitches; and round the front and back, where the border will be worked, crotchet 3 d.c. stitches into every space, making 7 d.c. at the 2 corners. for the crown of the cap.--make 7 ch., unite, 7 ch., d.c. into every loop, thus making 7 chains of seven. the cotton must be cut off at every row. 2nd: d.c. into centre loop of 7, 7 ch., repeat. 3rd: d.c. into centre loop of 7, 7 ch., d.c. on d.c. stitch, 7 ch., repeat. 4th: same as 2nd. 5th: same as 3rd. 6th: same as 2nd. 8th: same as 3rd. now repeat again 2nd, 3rd and 2nd rows. 12th: d.c. into centre loop of 7, 5 ch., repeat. 13th: 1 l., 2 ch., 1 l. into 3rd loop all round, including the d.c. stitches. in this row there are not sufficient stitches for the next row by 5, therefore for 5 times miss 1 loop instead of 2, at different intervals. there must be 114 squares in this row, therefore it is not very material whether 1 loop or 2 be missed occasionally, so that 114 squares are made. 14th: 10 l., 3 sq., * 9 l., 3 sq., repeat from * all round 15th: 10 l. the 1st on 4th l. of the 10 l, * 3 sq., 9 l., repeat from *. 16th: same as last. 17th: 10 l. the 1st on the last of the 9 l., * 3 sq., 9 l., repeat from *. 18th: 10 l. the 1st on the last l. of the 2nd sq., * 3 sq., 9 l., repeat from *. 19th: the same as last row. this pattern is simply the same as the insertion in the front. 20th: 1 l., 2 ch., miss 1 loop, repeat. 21st: 5 ch., d c. on every l. 22nd: 5 ch., d.c. into centre loop of 5 ch., repeat. 23rd, 24th, 25th, 26th, and 27th: the same as 22nd. 28th: 1 l. into the centre loop of the 5 ch., 2 ch., repeat. 29th: begin on a l. stitch, 10 l. in the next 7 loops, including the 1st stitch, 3 sq., 9 l., in the next 7 loops, 3 sq., 9 l., in the next 7 loops, * 3 sq., 9 l. in the next 9 loops, repeat from *; the reason for commencing the row in this manner is, that there were not squares enough in the last row for the pattern. this row is the same as the 14th row. now work as at 15th, 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th rows. now 1 l., 2 ch., 1 l. into 3rd loop. now 1 l. on l., 2 ch., repeat. 2 d.c. under ever 2 ch., worked tightly. now sew the crown into the front, gathering it in as it may be required. border.--1st row: work all round 1 l. into every loop, with 2 ch. between each. 2nd: 5 ch., 1 l. under every 2 ch., all round. 3rd and 4th: 1 l. under the 5 ch., 5 ch., repeat. 5th: work an extra row the same as the last, along the front, beginning and ending at the ears, just where the chains of 5, in the centre of the 2 rows of insertion, begin. 6th: work all round, * 5 l., with 3 ch. between each, under the 5 ch., 3 ch., d.c. under next 5, 3 ch, d.c. under next 5, 3 ch., d.c. under next 5, 3 ch., repeat from * under next 5. 7th: 3 ch., d.c. under every 3 ch., all round. narrow ribbon, or wide white cotton-braid, may be drawn in round the crown and along the front, but it is not actually necessary excepting for ornament. * * * * * shaving tidy. materials.--no. 16 brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton. no. 4 penelope hook. 1st row: make 180 chain, turn back, 1 l. into 9th loop, in the next row this forms 1 sq., by working the 1st l. into the 5th loop of the 8 ch., new 2 ch., 1 l. into 3rd loop till there are 58 sq. 2nd: 1 row all squares. 3rd: 6 sq., 3 l., 51 sq. 4th: 5 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 44 sq. 5th: 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 43 sq. 6th: 6 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 43 sq. 7th and 8th: 14 sq., 3 l., 43 sq. 9th: 13 sq., 3 l., 24 sq., 3 l., 19 sq. 10th: 8 sq., 15 l., 7 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 9 sq. 11th: 6 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 8 sq. 12th: 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq.; 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 7 sq. 13th: 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 7 sq. 14th: 5 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 7 sq. 15th: 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l.; 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 7 sq. 16th: 5 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 9 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 7 sq. 17th: 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 8 sq. 18th: 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 5 sq. [illustration: a shaving tidy.] 19th: 5 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 5 sq. 20th: 5 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 33 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 21 l., 6 sq. 21st: 6 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 7 sq. 22nd: 11 sq., 3 l., 4 sq. 23rd and 24th: 58 sq. 25th: 5 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 48 sq. 26th: 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 49 sq. 27th: 3 sq., 3 l., 35 sq., 3 l., 18 sq. 28th: 3 sq., 6 l., 33 sq., 3 l., 19 sq. 29th: 4 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 3 sq. 30th: 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 3 sq. 31st: 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 4 sq. 32nd: 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l, 7 sq. 33rd: 5 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 5 sq. 34th: 42 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq. 35th: 42 sq., 3 l., 2 l., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 3 sq. 36th: 20 sq., 3 l., 21 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq. 37th: 28 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 24 l., 3 sq. 38th: 39 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 4 sq. 39th: 45 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 4 sq. 40th: 45 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 5 sq. 41st and 42nd: two rows of squares. now work 3 d.c. into ever space on three sides, but not on the side above the top of the letters, making 7 d.c. at each corner. border.--1st row: begin at the side where the letter s is, 3 l. the first into 1st loop, 3 ch., 3 l. the 1st into 4th loop, repeat this till within 4 loops of the corner, then in the corner loop make 3 l., 3 ch., 3 more l. into same loop, now 3 ch., miss 3 loops, then 3 l. the 1st into 4th loop, now repeat till the corner loop of next corner, then 3 ch., then 3 l. into the same loop in which the last of the 3 l. was worked, now 3 ch., 3 l. the 1st into 4th loop, and repeat. 2nd: when at the end, turn back, work 3 l. on l., 3 ch., repeat; at the corner, after the last 3 l. and 3 ch., make 3 l. under the 3 ch. at corner, 3 ch., 3 more l. under same, 3 ch. 3 l. on l., repeat. 3rd: turn back and work the same. 4th: turn back, d.c. on the 1st of the l. stitches, * 5 ch., 3 d.c. under the 3 ch, repeat from *. 5th: turn back, 6 ch., 3 d.c. on the d.c., repeat. 6th: turn back, 7 ch, 3 d.c. on d.c., repeat. now, along the top work a row of extra long stitches, made by twisting the cotton twice over the hook instead of once, beginning on the d.c. stitches of the border, and working 5 l. stitches across the width of the border at regular spaces, then 1 l., 2 ch., 1 l. on every l. across the squares, terminating with 5 l. in the width of the border. now 3 d.c. into every space between the l. stitches, then crochet the two pieces together on the right side of the work, or sewing will do as well. if the tidy should require washing, let it now be done, and pressed between a double linen cloth, under a heavy weight; when dry, line it with coloured cambric, omitting the border; double it in half, and run a small tuck at the bottom of the extra l. stitches; in this tuck insert a narrow piece of whalebone, not quite so long as the work, and secure it at both ends; get a yard of satin ribbon, place a pin in the centre, and on one side of this pin sew on to the ribbon some pieces of old linen fringed about 3 inches in width, and 8 inches long, if this is doubled over the ribbon it will make each piece 4 inches long; sew then on the other side of the pin some soft chamois leather the same width and length, now place it in the centre of the tidy, draw the ribbon over, and tie it in a bow at the back. this should be laid on the toilet table, and not hung up; it will have the appearance of a book. * * * * * exhibition oval tidy for easy chair. materials.--12 reels no. 10 or 12 brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton. no. 3 penelope hook. make 266 chain stitches; this chain must be worked very evenly and well, as it is the centre of the pattern, and will have to be worked into on the other side after the 33rd row; turn back 1 l., into 4th loop from hook, 3 more long into successive loops, now 14 square, formed by working 2 ch., 1 l. into 3rd loop, 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 11 sq., 3 l. the cotton must be cut off every row. 2nd: 4 l., 7 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 10 sq., 3 l. 3rd: 4 l., 9 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 3 l. 4th: 4 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 33 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 16 sq., 3 l. 5th: 4 l., 12 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 3 l. 4 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 13 sq., 3 l. 6th: 4 l., 11 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 3 l. 7th: 4 l., 11 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 21 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 11 sq., 3 l. 8th: 7 l., 8 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 1 sq., 45 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 8 sq., 6 l.; the cotton at the end of every row must now be left sufficiently long to run in with a needle, not as before the end woven in with the last stitch. 9th: 4 l. the 1st on the 4th l. of last row, this is to form the oval, 9 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 3 l. 10th: 4 l. the 1st on 4th l., 7 sq., 6 l., 7 sq., 12 l., 2 sq. 3 l., 2 sq., 18 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 14 sq., 3 l. 11th: 7 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 12 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 12 sq., 6 l. 12th: 4 l. the 1st on 4th l., 14 sq., 3 l., 13 sq., 27 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 19 sq., 3 l. [illustration: oval tidy for easy chair.] 13th: 7 l., 18 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 18 sq., 6 l. 14th: 4 l. the 1st on 4th l., 15 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 6 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 18 sq., 3 l. 15th: 7 l., 9 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 24 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 14 sq., 6 l. 16th: 4 l. the 1st on 4th l., 10 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 15 sq., 3 l. 17th: 7 l., 12 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 12 l. 2 sq., 3 l., 16 sq., 6 l. 18th: 7 l. the 1st on 4th l., 10 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 12 sq., 6 l. 19th: 7 l. the 1st on 4th l., 13 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 9 sq., 6 l. 20th: 7 l. the 1st on 4th l., 12 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 6 l. 21st: 7 l. the 1st on 4th l., 9 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 13 sq., 6 l. 22nd: 7 l. the 1st on 4th l., 7 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 12 sq., 3 l., 14 sq., 6 l. 23rd: 7 l., beginning on 4th l., 13 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 12 sq., 6 l. 24th: 7 l., beginning on 4th l., 14 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 11 sq., 6 l. 25th: 10 l. the 1st on 4th l., 11 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 9 l. 26th: 7 l. the 1st on 7th l., 18 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 25 sq., 6 l. 27th: 10 l. the 1st on 4th l., 15 sq., 3 l., 12 sq., 3 l., 22 sq., 9 l. 28th: 10 l. the 1st on 7th l., 25 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 19 sq., 9 l. 29th: 13 l. the 1st on 7th l., 21 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 15 sq., 12 l. 30th: 13 l. the 1st on 10th l., 35 sq., 12 l. 31st: 16 l. the 1st on 10th l., 27 sq., 15 l. 32nd: 19 l. the 1st on 13th l., 17 sq., 18 l. 33rd: 58 l., the 1st on 16th l. 34th: now work the other half, keeping on the right side of the work, and working on the other side of the foundation chain, 4 l., 12 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 4 l., 13 sq., 3 l. 35th: 4 l., 9 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 7 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 5 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 3 l. 36th: 4 l., 8 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 11 sq., 3 l. 37th: 4 l., 7 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., 3 l. 38th: 4 l., 11 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 11 sq., 27 l., 3 sq., 36 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 10 sq., 3 l. 39th: 4 l., 21 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l. 40th: 7 l., 16 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 6 l. 41st: 4 l. the 1st on 4th l., 13 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 2 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 9 sq., 3 l., 18 sq., 3 l. 42nd: 4 l., 15 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 27 l., 1 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 17 sq., 3 l. 43rd: 7 l., 10 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 19 sq., 6 l. 44th: 4 l. the 1st on 4th l., 11 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 5 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 27 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 18 l., 18 sq., 3 l. 45th: 7 l., 7 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 12 sq., 6 l. 46th: 4 l. the 1st on 4th l., 8 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 21 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 15 l., 13 sq., 3 l. 47th: 7 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 15 l., 3 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 6 l, 1 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., 6 l. 48th: 4 l. the 1st on 4th l., 5 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 12 l., 2 sq., 6 l.,7 sq., 15 l., 4 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 10 sq., 3 l. 49th: 7 l., 12 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 18 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 6 l., 7 sq., 6 l. 50th: 7 l. the 1st on 4th l., 14 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 9 l., 9 sq., 15 l., 8 sq., 15 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 6 l. 51st: 7 l. the 1st on 4th l., 12 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 7 sq., 9 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 9 sq., 12 l., 14 sq., 6 l. 52nd: 7 l. the 1st on 4th l., 11 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 12 l., 1 sq., 9 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 13 sq., 6 l. 53rd: 7 l. the 1st on 4th l., 10 sq., 6 l., 9 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 24 sq., 6 l. 54th: 7 l. the 1st on 4th l., 9 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 9 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 12 l., 19 sq., 6 l. 55th: 7 l. the 1st on 4th l., 8 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 3 l., 4 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 12 l., 3 sq., 6 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 17 sq., 6 l. 56th: 7 l. the 1st on 4th l., 19 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 4 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 18 sq., 6 l. 57th: 10 l. the 1st on 4th l., 17 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 7 sq., 6 l., 1 sq., 6 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 16 sq., 9 l. 58th: 7 l. the 1st on 7th l., 15 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 3 l., 3 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 6 l., 13 sq., 6 l. 59th: 10 l. the 1st on 4th l., 17 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 1 sq., 3 l., 2 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 10 sq., 9 l. 60th: 10 l. the 1st on 7th l., 15 sq., 3 l., 8 sq., 3 l., 5 sq., 3 l., 16 sq., 9 l. 61st: 13 l. the 1st on 7th l., 13 sq., 3 l., 6 sq., 3 l., 20 sq., 12 l. 62nd: 13 l. the 1st on 10th l., 35 sq., 12 l. 63rd: 16 l. the 1st on 10th l., 27 sq., 15 l. 64th: 19 l. the 1st on 13th l., 17 sq., 18 l. 65th: 58 l. the 1st on 16th l. now run in all the ends neatly and very secure; this may be done by darning the end backwards and forwards on the thick part. d.c. on the 1st of the 58 l. stitches at the side, 7 ch., d.c. into 6th loop, then 7 ch., d.c. into every 5th loop, 7 ch., d.c. on last l., 7 ch., d.c. into the 5th loop of the next l. stitches, 7 ch., d.c. into 5th loop, 7 ch., d.c. on last l., 7 ch., d.c. into 4th loop of the next l. stitches, 7 ch., d.c. on last l., * 7 ch., d.c. on the last l. of next l. stitches, 11 times more, * now there are 2 even rows of l. stitches, ** 7 ch., d.c. into the loop between the two rows. 7 ch., d.c. on last l. of the next l. stitches, repeat from ** twice more, now there are three even rows; now work the same, now there are 15 even rows, make 7 ch., d.c. between every alternate row for 3 times, then 7 ch., d.c. on next row; now work all round the same. there must be 31 chains of 7 on each of the four sloping sides of the oval, 11 chains of 7 on the long stitches on each side, and 8 chains of 7 on the top and bottom. border.--under each of the 7 chains work 2 l. with 1 ch. between each, 3 ch., repeat. 2nd: under each 3 ch. work 2 l. with 1 ch. between each, 5 ch., repeat. 3rd: under the 5 ch. work 2 l. with 1 ch. between each, 7 ch., repeat. 4th: 7 d.c. under the 7 ch., repeat. * * * * * honiton sprigs in crochet. the beautiful and expensive lace for which honiton is famous may be closely imitated in crochet, with the occasional aid of some point-lace stitches. honiton sprigs and edgings are done in detached pieces, which are afterwards laid on brussels net, and run on in any form that fancy may dictate. sometimes they are connected together into a solid mass by means of twisted bars, in a manner termed _guipuring_. being thus separate, the directions for each sprig or edging are comparatively short. each sprig is usually begun at the end of the stem, which is formed by a chain, any leaves or flowers that come on the right side of it being then made as you come to them; generally a flower forms the point of the spray, and this being made, the stem is finished by working the chain stitches in s.c., adding the leaves or flowers on the left side whenever they occur, and working down to the commencement of the chain. leave about three inches of thread on beginning and ending; thread these with a fine needle and run a few stitches up and down the stem, on the _wrong_ side, to secure them. they may then be cut off closely, and the sprig is complete. as these general observations refer to all imitations of honiton lace in crochet, we shall beg our readers to refer to them, when directions for other specimens are given. * * * * * crochet window curtain. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton. penelope hook. may be worked from the engraving in any thickness of cotton, amounting to the size of curtain required; the larger the curtain the thicker the cotton should be. it likewise, in thick cotton, looks remarkably well for bed curtains. [illustration: crochet window curtain] * * * * * window curtain. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head knitting cord, no. 70. penelope hook. the extreme elaboration of this pattern demands that the material in which it is worked should be lighter than it need be when the design is simpler and less rich. the use of finer materials also diminishes the size of the pattern; we, therefore, recommend no. 70: but, of course, it is optional to use coarser. in no. 70 cotton, about 6 patterns, besides the border, will make a curtain two yards wide; but in no. 40, not more than five patterns would be required. the border should be worked at each edge, which may very easily be done by working backwards from the centre of the last pattern, to the edge. it is not necessary to work a border at the top of the curtains. each pattern contains 61 squares or 183 stitches; the border 45 squares or 135 stitches; reckoning from the extreme edge to the straight line 8 squares, which occurs in every scroll between the patterns. for 6 patterns and 2 borders, therefore, 1,368 stitches would be required for a foundation, with the one over, always needed in square crochet. in working the border along the bottom, care must be taken completely to reverse it at the centre, that is, after 3 patterns, otherwise the corner would not be found to go right. * * * * * knitted lace for curtains, &c. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head knitting cord, no, 40. penelope hook. cast on twelve stitches. 1st row: slip 1, knit 3, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slip stitch over, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2. 2nd: knit 3, purl 8, knit 2. 3rd: slip 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3. 4th: knit 6, purl 8, knit 2. 5th: slip 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 4, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together. 6th: knit 2, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 3, purl 8, knit 2. 7th: slip 1, knit 2 together, make l, knit 4, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 8. 8th: cast off seven, knit 1, purl 8, knit 2. repeat for the length required. [illustration: window curtain.] * * * * * [illustration: window curtain and stove apron.] window curtain and stove apron. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head knitting cord, no. 40, with a suitable crochet hook. the number of stitches in this curtain must depend, of course, on the width of the window for which it is intended. each pattern requires a foundation of 102 chain stitches; and the borders at the sides 57 chain each. as there will be about 560 stitches in a yard, or very nearly five patterns and one border, it will be easy to reckon the number required for any given width. a curtain two yards wide will require 1,135 stitches, which will allow ten patterns of the convulvulus, and the two borders; to this, every 102 stitches added will make one wreath more, nearly equalling in width the sixth of a yard. the whole of this curtain is done in square crochet, the design in close squares, and the ground in open. square crochet (the majority of our readers are aware) consists of d.c. chain stitches exclusively. a close, or solid square is formed of three successive d.c. stitches: an open square of 1 d.c., 2 ch., miss 2 of the preceding row. almost all square crochet patterns are intended to be worked from the engraving, which is laid open before the worker and copied. to assist in guiding the eye it is advisable to cover each row of the engraving after it is copied. we will only observe, with regard to this pattern, that the first two rows are done in ch., and that two stitches at each end are also close, which affords an opportunity for working in the ends of the previous rows. this design is also extremely suitable for a curtain for a grate. for this purpose, brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head knitting cord, no. 70, will be preferable to the coarser numbers. it would be greatly improved by the addition of a bead border, similar to that of the anti-macassar, given in a former part of this work. the effect of the bead border being to add weight to the end of the stove apron, it would keep it in its place better than anything else, besides being very ornamental. a handsome fringe may be knotted on the end, and it may be lined with calico to correspond with the furniture of the room. * * * * * netted window curtain. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head netting cotton, no. 24: embroidering goat's-head cotton, no. 30; a middle-sized netting needle; steel mesh, no. 9; and a long embroidering needle. if worked with the above cotton and mesh four squares will measure one inch, which will be a guide for the number of foundation stitches to make in the beginning for the curtain. the pattern must afterwards be darned in embroidering cotton, no. 30, according to the engraving, by passing the needle under and over the threads of the meshes very regularly and even, always keeping the same number of threads in every square, and all must run the same way and be drawn to one degree of tightness, for all the beauty of the work depends upon its evenness and regularity. this pattern may be extended to any size, and would look very well if the flowers were sewn in pale pink ingrain cotton, and the fretwork in white cotton. [illustration: netted window curtain.] * * * * * a flower vase screen, for concealing a flower-pot or basin with flowers. materials.--4 shades of green wool, the lightest almost a pale lemon, 1 skein only of this, and 3 each of the darkest; 5 shades of pink, 2 skeins of each, all 4-thread berlin wool; 3 yards of ordinary sized skirt cord, the size of blind cord. d.c. 14 stitches over the end of the cord with the darkest green, unite; now work 2 d.c. into every loop; the next row the same; from this row increase as may be required, working 4 rows of darkest green, 4 rows of next shade, 3 rows of next shade, in all 11 rows; there must by 154 stitches in the outside row. fasten off the cord neatly, and with darkest shade of green, work 21 d.c. stitches; now turn on reverse side, and work 21 rows of ridged crochet, which is done by working into the lower loop instead of the upper one, and omitting at the end of every row the 1 ch. which in ordinary ridged crochet prevents it decreasing, but by omitting this 1 ch. these 21 d.c. stitches will be decreased to a point; work 6 rows of the 2 darkest shades, and 9 of the lightest of the 3 shades: make 7 of these points, but be careful, in joining on every shade, that the knots are concealed, and run in the last end very neatly. with the lightest green of the 3 shades, commence on the wrong side of the mat, begin on the first dark ridge of the point, make 5 ch., d.c. on every ridge, but d.c. into the point, make 5 ch., d.c. into same loop, then 5 ch., d.c. on every ridge till the last, then crochet into the 1st ridge of next point, without making any chain between. _palest green_.--d.c. into centre of 2nd 5 ch. from the bottom of the point, 5 ch., d.c. into centre of every 5 ch. till the point, then d.c. in centre of top, 5 ch., 5 ch., d.c. into same, then work down till within the last ch. of 5, omit this, and d.c. in 2nd ch. of 5 from the bottom of next point. 1st row.--_darkest pink_: make 41 ch., turn back, 1 l. into 9th loop from hook, * 3 ch., 1 l. into 4th loop, repeat from * 7 times more, in all 9 spaces. 2nd: turn on reverse side, 3 l. under the 3 ch., 1 ch., repeat at the point, work 9 l., 2 ch., 6 more l. under same space, then 1 ch., 3 l. under the 3 ch., repeat; at the end cut off the wool. 3rd: with next shade commence on same side as 1st row, 1 l. between each long, but after every 3rd l., make 1 ch. at the point, and between each of the 6 l., make 1 l., 1 ch., then under the 2 ch., make 1 l., 3 ch., 1 more l. under same, then work the same as the half just completed. 4th.--_next shade_: with same colour, inclose some white wire drawn from ribbon wire, thus--between each l. stitch, and under each 1 ch., work 1 d.c. stitch with the wire between, first bending the end of the wire to prevent it slipping, but over the point work 2 d.c. under each 1 ch., and under the 3 ch., work 3 d.c.; now work the remaining half, and d.c. along the bottom, still enclosing the wire to the side where this row was commenced, twist the 2 ends of the wire together, after pulling it into shape. 5th: great care must be taken in working this row not to bend the work; next shade, 1 l. on 1st d.c. stitch at the side, 3 ch., * 1 l. into successive loops for 4 times, 3 ch., repeat from *, be careful that a 3 ch. comes at the point; this row will end as it was begun; then crochet along the bottom. 6th.--_next shade_: 2 l. under the 1st 3 ch., 3 ch., 2 more l. under same; repeat this 6 times more, then repeat the same over the point, but for 5 times make 5 ch. instead of 3. now sew these pink points up at the side, joining them for 6 times by the chain of 3, slipping the wool on from chain to chain; now pin each green point on to the part of the pink which is sewed together, stretching each green point as high as possible; then sew these green points at about the second shade of green, on to the pink, as in engraving. [illustration: bread cloth.] materials.--three reels of brooks' no. 24, and two of no. 16, great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton. a hook suitable for the fine number. the octagon shape is one extremely well adapted for bread baskets, as well as for papier-machã© trays of the usual forms; but it requires a little nicety to produce even edges at the sloping sides. the way it is done is this. the whole pattern, it will be perceived, is done in square crochet, and in the increasing sides a close square is added at each end. this is done by making one chain extra at the beginning and end of the first row of d.c. 2nd row: 1 ch., 2 d.c. on the chain, and 2 on the first d.c. at the commencement, thus increasing three stitches, besides the one chain which is merely a foundation for the next increase; then at the other extremity of the row, 2 d.c. on the last stitch, 2 d.c. on the chain, and make one chain. do this for every row which is increased, working in all the ends. for the decreasing rows begin with 1 slip, 1 s.c., 1 short double crochet, 1 d.c.--this last coming on the first stitch in the second square of last row, keeps the squares evenly over each other. at the other end of the row reverse the process, by doing 1 d.c., 1 short d.c., 1 s.c., 1 slip, which completes it. the short double-crochet stitch, being new to our readers, may be briefly described. it is, as its name implies, a medium stitch between a s.c. and a d.c. stitch. begin as for a d.c. stitch, with the thread round the hook, but after the latter is inserted in the stitch, and the thread drawn through, so that there are three loops on the needle, the thread must be drawn through all three at once. short treble crochet (contracted to s.t.c.), is done in a similar manner. the thread being passed twice round the needle, there are four loops on the latter, after the one is drawn through the stitch of the preceding row. the thread is now drawn through three loops together, and afterwards through two. when the bread cloth is worked, do open square crochet all round it, taking the d.c. stitches sufficiently close at the corners to lie smoothly. knot a fringe 2-1/2 inches deep in every square. it is to be made of the coarse cotton. to increase the size of this d'oyley, for a tray, or other article, use coarser cotton and hook. * * * * * bread cloth. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton, nos. 14, 16, 18, 20. walker's penelope hook, no. 3. _a_. with cotton no. 18 make 10 chain, 1 s.c., in 1st chain; then in round loop 3 d.c., ** 9 chain, miss 3, 1 s.c. in 4th; then in round loop. * 1 s.c. 7 chain, * repeat twice more; 1 chain to cross and in 1st 7 chain,** [â·1â·] 1 d.c., 9 long, 1 d.c., repeat in the other two 7 chains; 1 s.c. in the 1 chain that crosses the stem: [â·2â·] 5 chain; 3 d.c. in the centre round loop. repeat from ** to ** 1 d.c., 5 long, join to 5th long in 3rd section, 4 long, 1 d.c. in same 7 chain; in the next two 7 chains: 1 d.c., 9 long, 1 d.c., 1 s.c. in the chain that crosses the stem [â·2â·] repeat from [â·2â·] to [â·2â·] 5 chain, 3 d.c. in the centre round loop. repeat again from ** to ** 1 d.c., 5 long, join, 4 long, 1 d.c., in next 7 chain, 1 d.c., 9 long, 1 d.c., in next 7 chain, 1 d.c., 1 s.c. on the chain that crosses, 5 chain, 1 s.c. on 1st d.c. in centre, fasten off. make 11 more _a_'s like the 1st, only joining, as in the engraving:--"thus, 1 d.c., 5 long, join, 4 long, 1 d.c." _b_. with cotton no. 20. 15 chain, 1 s.c., in 1st stitch and in round loop. * 4 d.c., 10 chain, join where the two _a_'s join, turn, 10 s.c. down the 10 chain; 4 d.c., 10 chain, join where the two 9 long of _a_ are joined together; 10 s.c. down the 10 chain; repeat from * 3 times more; * 1 s.c., 5 chain, miss 2, * repeat all round; fasten off. make 5 more, placing them as in the engraving. _c_. with cotton no. 16. 10 chain, 1 s.c. in 1st, make it round. * 1 d.c., 3 chain, 3 long, 3 chain, * repeat 3 times more in round loop. ** 1 d.c. on d.c., 7 chain, 1 d.c. on 2 long, 7 chain repeat all round. ** 9 d.c. in each 7 chain; fasten off. 1 s.c. in 5th d.c., 9 chain repeat all round. in 1st 9 chain 6 d.c., join to 5th long of _a_ 5 d.c. in same 9 chain: * in next 9 chain 11 d.c., repeat all round; fasten off. make another _c_, joining to _a_ and first _c_. make 12 more; join as in the engraving. [illustration: bread cloth.] _d_. with cotton no. 18. 7 chain make it round; 11 d.c. in round loop, join to 5th d.c. of 11 d.c. of _e_, * 7 chain, miss 1, 1 s.c., repeat * twice more; join to the other _c_ to the 5th d.c. of 11 d.c., fasten off. 1 s.c. in 4th chain of 1st 7 chain. ** 5 chain 1 s.c. in same as last s.c., then in 5 chain, 1 d.c. 4 long, 2 chain, join to _a_, turn, 1 chain, 2 long on 2 chain, 4 long, 1 d.c. in same 5 chain. 1 s.c. in next 7 chain; 7 chain join to next division of _d_ 7 chain; 1 s.c. in 4th chain stitch of 7 chain, repeat from ** to ** 7 chain, join, 7 chain, repeat from ** to ** again, fasten off. make 9 more _d_'s, joining in the same manner, and as placed in the engraving. _e_. with cotton no. 18. 10 chain, make it round and work in loop 17 d.c.; 1 d.c. on 1st d.c., 5 chain, miss 1, 1 s.c. in next 4 chain join to _c_'s 3 chain, miss 2, 1 s.c. in 3rd, 5 chain, miss 1, 1 s.c. in next, 6 chain join to _a_ 5 chain, miss 1, 1 s.c. in next, 5 chain, miss 1, 1 s.c., 4 chain, join to _c_ 3 chain, miss 2, 1 s.c., 5 chain, miss 1, 1 s.c., 7 chain 1 s.c. fasten off. make 3 more, placing them as in the engraving. _f_. with cotton no. 14. 1 long between two _c_'s; 1 _c_ before the corner. commence: 6 chain, â· 1 d.c. in 6th d.c. of 11 d.c. of _c_ 9 chain, repeat â· 3 times more; 10 chain, 1 s.c. in 4th chain of 7 chain of _e_ 10 chain, â·â· 1 d.c. in the centre of 11 d.c., 9 chain, repeat â·â· 3 times more. repeat all round the d'oyley, making the corners alike. 2nd: â· 3 long, 2 chain, miss 2, â· this is the â· pattern all round, except at the corners. you miss 2 and make no chain, this is to be done by _e_, and by the 1 long between the two _c_'s. you work as follows: make no chain, and miss 4, 2 each side of one long. 3rd: 5 chain, miss 2, 1 s.c. repeat all round. * * * * * honiton sprig. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton, no. 60. penelope hook, no. 24. 6 ch. for the end of the stem. leaf: 14 ch., miss 2, 9 d.c. on the next 9, 2 s.c., 1 slip, 24 ch., miss 3, 2 d.c. in next, 2 d.c. in next, 9 d.c. in the next 9, 2 s.c. in the next 2, slip in the next, which leaves 7 for the stem. slip stitch on the 2 s.c., and 7 of the d.c., taking great care not to contract the leaf, 10 ch., miss 4 d.c. in the fifth, x 2 ch., miss 2, t.c. in 3rd, x twice, 2 ch., miss 2, d.c. in 3rd, 2 ch., miss 2, s.c. on 3rd, 1 ch., miss 1, slip at the base of the flower. do 9 slip stitches up the last row, the open hem of which forms the centre of the flower; then 11 ch., miss 3, 2 contracted d.c. stitches on the next 4, d.c. down all but the last 3, 2 s.c., 1 slip. the flower thus formed consists of an open hem for the centre petal, and a closer petal on each side. work entirely round the flowers in s.c. s.c. on the seven chains of the stem, before you get to the leaf, opposite which make another, exactly like it. s.c. to the end of the stem, and fasten off. * * * * * a spangled wool netted cover for a tea-poy. materials.--if a fire-veil is required, use a flat thin bone or boxwood mesh, nearly half an inch in width; but if for a table-cover, etc., use a flat mesh scarcely three-eighths of an inch wide. 3 reels of brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton, no. 10, of a good drab, or dark claret colour, the latter is preferable; 1 ounce of maize colour spangled wool; 1 ounce of green ditto, and 1 ounce of violet ditto. no. 13 netting needles. [footnote: this spangled wool is a new article, extremely brilliant, and may be obtained, by inquiry, at any berlin shop, at 1s. 6d. or 2s. per ounce, and weighing much the same as any other berlin wool.] begin on a foundation of 85 diamonds, and net with the cotton until the piece is 68 diamonds long; if for a fire-veil, darn, as in ordinary darned netting, the centre with maize wool, and the border with green, darn the outer row of diamonds with violet, and also the pattern inside the border; but if for any other purpose, use any colour of the spangled wool that may harmonise or contrast well with the draperies of the room; but, as a general rule, the netted ground should be dark. for the fringe, cut some shaded 4-thread berlin wool of the same colour as the spangled--in the pattern given it is violet--into lengths of 10 inches, tie this in tufts of 9 threads into every other diamond; or, if preferred, 6 lengths in every diamond. draw the wool through the loop, placing the wool exactly in the centre, double the two ends evenly, and tie in a tight knot; then, with a rug needle, draw in two or three lengths of spangled wool, so as to lie on the surface of every tuft; but, if preferred, all spangled wool may be used, but then the work would be rendered very costly, whereas, with the present directions, the work is sufficiently elegant, brilliant, and exceedingly new. darn the centre first and the border last. count 37 clear diamonds from the left-hand side of the work, and 19th diamond from the bottom. in the 39th diamond from the left-hand side and 20th from the bottom, darn the 2 first diamonds for the stem of a flower, then work from engraving. [illustration: a spangled wool netted cover for a tea-poy, square work-table, or, if drawn together at the top, makes a glittering fire-veil.] * * * * * netted anti-macassar [illustration] materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head knitting cord, no. 40, and embroidery cotton, no 70; mesh, one-third of an inch wide. this anti-macassar is done in the fashionable style of netting, with a pattern darned on it after it is worked. make a foundation, on which work 67 stitches. repeat these, backwards and forwards, until a square is done, of as many holes up the sides as along the width. remove the foundation, and add either a crochet-bead border all round, or a netted one. the bead border makes the shape more solid; the netted one is certainly lighter, and the following is very pretty:-with a mesh three times the size of that used for the square, do one entire round, with three stitches in one at the corners. 2nd round: with the small mesh. miss the first stitch, net the second, then the missed one, repeat all round. 3rd: x net a stitch in each of seven stitches, miss one stitch of last round, x repeat all round. observe, before doing this round, count the number of stitches; if they cannot be divided by eight, add at the corners as many as may be required. supposing there are so many eights and five over, then three more will be wanted, and one must be added (by doing two in one) in each of the three corners. 4th: x 6 over seven, miss the long stitch, x repeat. 5th: x 5 over six, missing as before, x repeat. 6th: x 4 over five, as before, x repeat. 7th: x 3 over four, as before, x repeat. 8th: x 2 over three, as before, x repeat. before darning netting, wash it perfectly clean, stiffen it by dipping it into a little gum-water, and pin it out on a pillow, in the proper form, to dry. then darn it with embroidery cotton, every square of the pattern being closely filled up. * * * * * short purse, in netting. as the following specimen is done only in the ordinary netting stitch, we do not think any particular explanation of the art of netting can be needed by our readers, it being so universally known. indeed, it would be extremely difficult to teach the stitch by writing. whenever any stitch, except that used in common netting, may occur in any of the following designs, we will endeavour to explain it as clearly as possible. materials.--very fine crimson netting silk, and gold thread. two steel meshes are required, one about no. 15, and one no. 11. eagle card-board gauge. make a piece of foundation of 9 stitches, and join your silk in the first. 1st round (small mesh). 1 stitch in every stitch of the foundation. 2nd: the same. 3rd: 2 stitches in every one of the previous round. 4th: a stitch in every one of the last round. 5th: x 2 stitches in the first, and one in the second, x 8 times. 6th: a stitch in every stitch. 7th: increase eight stitches in the round, by doing two in one eight times, taking care that the stitch increased is the one which precedes the increased stitch of the last augmented round. 8th: like 6th. 9th: like 7th. 10th, 12th, 14th, 16th, 18th, 20th, 22nd: like 6th. the intermediate rounds like the 7th. there ought now to be 88 stitches in the round. do 44 more rounds, without any increase. then take the large mesh, and do another round. take the small mesh, x miss one stitch, take a stitch in the second, then one in the stitch that was missed. x repeat this all round. [illustration: short purse, in netting.] do four rounds of plain netting with the small mesh, then begin to make the points. 1st point: 7 stitches; draw out the mesh, x turn the work, and make a stitch on every one but the last; x repeat till you come to a point. 2nd and following points, like the first, so that there are 11 in the round. the pattern is then to be darned with the gold thread, according to the design we have given. * * * * * [illustration: bridal purse, in crochet.] bridal purse, in crochet. materials.--six skeins of white crochet silk, two skeins of _ombrã©_ scarlet ditto, in long shades, three skeins of slate-colour, and one of bright scarlet. two ounces of transparent white beads, rather larger than seed beads, four strings of gold, the same size, and a hank of steel to match. for the garnitures (which must be entirely of bright steel), two rings, a handsome tassel for one end, and a deep fringe for the other. boulton's tapered indented crochet hook, no. 23. begin by threading all the white beads on the white silk; half the gold on the _ombrã©_ cerise, and the steel on the slate-coloured. what scarlet silk is used in the square end is without beads; the few rows at the other end, of that colour, are threaded with gold, which may be put on afterwards. the design of the square end consists of a spray of roses and leaves, the former in scarlet _ombrã©_ with gold beads intermixed, the latter with slate-silk and steel. the ground is composed wholly of white beads, one being dropped on every stitch; where, therefore, the scarlet and slate silks are worked without beads, they appear to be _in intaglio_. a scroll of steel beads below the group is intermixed with the white, and the top and bottom of the square end are finished off with vandykes of plain scarlet without beads. at the bottom is an open pattern in scarlet, to which is attached the fringe. begin with the plain scarlet silk, with which make a chain of 100 stitches, and close it into a round. work one round in scarlet, using in the end of white silk. 2nd round: in which you begin to drop on the white beads. x 2 white, 3 scarlet, x 20 times. 3rd: x 3 white, 1 scarlet, 1 white, x 20 times. 4th: all white; work in the scarlet silk all round, and then fasten it off, as no more is required until the whole square end is worked. 5th: x 22 white, 1 steel, 23 white, 1 steel, 3 white, x twice. 6th: x 21 white, 2 steel, 22 white, 2 steel, 3 white, x twice. 7th: x 3 white, 1 steel, 5 white, 2 steel, 3 white, 2 steel, 4 white, 3 steel, 2 white, 1 steel, 6 white, 2 steel, 4 white, 2 steel, 3 white, 3 steel, 4 white, x twice. 8th: x 3 white, 2 steel, 3 white, 3 steel, * 2 white, 4 steel, * twice; 2 white, 2 steel, 4 white, 3 steel, 3 white, 3 steel, 2 white, 4 steel, 4 white, x twice. 9th: x 2 white, 3 steel, * 2 white, 4 steel, * 3 times; 1 white, 3 steel, 3 white, 4 steel, ** 2 white, 4 steel, ** twice, 4 white, x twice. 10th: x 2 white, 2 steel, * 3 white, 3 steel, * 3 times; 2 white, 2 steel, 4 white, 3 steel, ** 3 white 3 steel, ** twice, 5 white, x twice. 11th: x 1 white, 1 steel, 2 white, 4 steel, 4 white, 3 steel, 3 white, 2 steel, 3 white, 1 steel, 3 white, 4 steel, 4 white, 3 steel, 3 white, 2 steel, 3 white, 1 steel, 3 white, x twice. 12th: x 4 steel, 2 white, 1 steel, 1 white, 5 steel, 3 white, 3 steel, 4 white, 4 steel, 2 white, 1 steel, 1 white, 5 steel, 3 white, 3 steel, 4 white, 1 steel, 3 white, x twice. 13th: x 3 white, 2 steel, 2 white, 1 steel, 4 white, 5 steel, 4 white, 2 steel, 3 white, 2 steel, 2 white, 1 steel, 4 white, 5 steel, 4 white, 2 steel, 4 white, x twice. 14th: 3 white, 2 steel, 2 white, 3 steel, 4 white, 4 steel, 8 white, 2 steel, 2 white, 3 steel, 4 white, 4 steel, 9 white, x twice. 15th: x 4 white, 1 steel, * 3 white, 4 steel, * twice, 8 white, 1 steel, ** 3 white, 4 steel, ** twice, 8 white, x twice. 16th: x 9 white, 4 steel, 4 white, 2 steel, 13 white, 4 steel, 4 white, 2 steel, 8 white, x twice. 17th: all white. 18th: x 14 white, 2 slate silk, 34 white, x twice. 19th: x 14 white, 3 slate, 8 white, 5 steel, 20 white, x twice. 20th: x 14 white, 5 slate, 4 white, 9 steel, 12 white, 2 steel, 4 white, x twice. 21st: x 14 white, 11 slate, 1 steel, 3 slate, 2 steel, 10 white, 2 steel, 1 white, 2 steel, 4 white, x twice. 22nd: begin the _ombrã©_ scarlet, x 16 white, 7 slate, 2 steel, 12 white, 2 gold, 2 white, 2 steel, 4 white, 2 steel, 1 white, x twice. 23rd: x 13 white, 11 steel, 12 white, 1 gold, 2 scarlet silk, 1 gold, 7 white, 2 steel, 1 white, x twice. 24th: x 14 white, 9 steel, 3 white, 2 steel, 7 white, 1 gold, 3 scarlet, 6 gold, 5 white, x twice. 25th: x 10 white, 1 gold, 5 white, 7 steel, 2 white, 4 steel, 6 white, 1 gold, 3 scarlet, 1 gold, 5 scarlet, 1 gold, 1 white, 2 steel, 1 white, x twice. 26th: x 7 white, 2 gold, 2 scarlet, 4 gold, 5 white, 2 steel, 3 white, 4 steel, 2 slate silk, 4 white, 1 gold, 2 scarlet, 1 gold, 6 scarlet, 1 gold, 1 white, 2 steel, 1 white, x twice. 27th: x 9 white, 1 gold, 2 scarlet, 1 gold, 2 scarlet, 1 gold, 4 white, 1 steel, 1 slate silk, 3 white, 4 steel, 4 slate, 2 white, 1 gold, 2 scarlet, 1 gold, 3 scarlet, 1 gold, 2 scarlet, 1 gold, 4 white, x twice. 28th: x 11 white, 3 gold, 1 scarlet, 1 gold, 4 white, 1 steel, 1 slate, 3 white, 3 steel, 5 slate, 2 white, 1 gold, 2 scarlet, 1 gold, 3 scarlet, 1 gold, 2 scarlet, 3 gold, 2 white, x twice. 29th: x 8 white, 3 gold, 2 scarlet, 1 gold, 1 scarlet, 1 gold, 4 white, 1 steel, 1 slate, 3 white, 3 steel, 5 slate, 2 white, 1 gold, 1 scarlet, 2 gold, 1 scarlet, 2 gold, 3 scarlet, 1 gold, 2 scarlet, 1 gold, 1 white, x twice. 30th: x 8 white, 1 gold, 1 scarlet, 1 gold, 3 scarlet, 2 gold, 3 white, 2 steel, 1 slate, 3 white, 3 steel, 5 slate, 3 white, 3 gold, 3 scarlet, 1 gold, 4 scarlet, 1 gold, 2 white, x twice. 31st: x 8 white, 1 gold, 1 scarlet, 1 gold, 3 scarlet, 2 gold, 3 white, 1 steel, 2 slate, 4 white, 2 steel, 5 slate, 4 white, 7 gold, 3 scarlet, 1 gold, 2 white, x twice. 32nd: x 8 white, 1 gold, 2 scarlet, 4 gold, 3 white, 1 steel, 2 white, 1 steel, 4 white, 2 steel, 5 slate, 5 white, 4 gold, 5 scarlet, 1 gold, 2 white, x twice. 33rd: x 9 white, 5 gold, 1 white, 3 steel, 3 white, 1 slate, 1 steel, 3 white, 1 steel, 5 slate, 5 white, 1 steel, 2 white, 1 gold, 5 scarlet, 1 gold, 3 white, x twice. 34th: x 20 white, 1 slate, 1 white, 1 steel, 2 white, 2 steel, 5 slate, 4 white, 1 steel, 4 white, 5 gold, 4 white, x twice. 35th: x 19 white, 3 slate, 2 white, 2 steel, 4 slate, 5 white, 1 steel, 14 white, x twice. 36th: x 14 white, 1 slate, 3 white, 3 slate, 1 steel, 3 white, 4 steel, 7 slate, 2 steel, 12 white, x twice. 37th: x 14 white, 7 slate, 1 steel, 3 white, 2 steel, 2 white, 9 slate, 2 steel, 10 white, x twice. 38th: x 14 white, 6 slate, 2 steel, 3 white, 2 steel, 1 slate, 1 steel, 5 white, 5 slate, 2 steel, 9 white, x twice. 39th: x 10 white, 2 steel, 1 white, 2 steel, 4 slate, 2 steel, 4 white, 6 steel, 5 white, 4 slate, 3 steel, 8 white, x twice. 40th: x 10 white, 2 steel, 2 white, 6 steel, 5 white, 1 steel, 3 slate, 2 steel, 5 white, 4 slate, 3 steel, 6 white, 1 steel, x twice. 41st: x 1 steel, 6 white, 2 steel, 16 white, 1 steel, 3 slate, 3 steel, 4 white, 5 slate, 3 steel, 4 white, 1 steel, 1 slate, x twice. 42nd: x 1 steel, 7 white, 1 steel, 1 white, 2 steel, 1 white, 5 gold, 7 white, 1 steel, 4 slate, 2 steel, 5 white, 3 slate, 1 white, 3 steel. 3 white, 2 steel, 1 white, x twice. 43rd: 10 white, 2 steel, 1 white, 1 gold, 4 scarlet, 1 gold, 6 white, 1 steel, 4 slate, 3 steel, 5 white, 2 slate, 2 white, 2 steel, 5 white, 1 steel, x twice. 44th: x 12 white, 3 gold, 3 scarlet, 2 gold, 4 white, 1 steel, 1 white, 4 slate, 3 steel, 5 white, 2 slate, 3 white, 1 steel, 1 white, 2 steel, 2 white, 1 steel, x twice. 45th: x 7 white, 2 steel, 2 white, 1 gold, 3 scarlet, 2 gold, 2 scarlet, 1 gold, 4 white, 1 steel, 1 white, 5 slate, 2 steel, 5 white, 2 slate, 4 white, 1 steel, 2 white, 1 steel, 1 white, 1 steel, x twice. 46th: x 7 white, 2 steel, 1 white, 1 gold, 6 scarlet, 1 gold, 1 scarlet, 1 gold, 3 white, 2 steel, 1 white, 5 slate, 2 steel, 4 white, 2 slate, 3 white, 1 slate, 1 white, 1 steel, 2 white, 1 steel, 1 white, 1 steel, x twice. 47th: x 10 white, 1 gold, 7 scarlet, 2 gold, 3 white, 1 steel, 2 white, 5 slate, 2 steel, 1 slate, 8 white, 2 slate, * 2 slate, 1 white, * twice, x twice. 48th: x 10 white, 1 gold, 3 scarlet, 2 gold, 2 scarlet, 2 gold, 2 white, 1 steel, 3 white, 5 slate, 2 steel, 2 slate, 7 white, 2 slate, 1 white, 3 slate, 2 white, x twice. 49th: x 9 white, 3 gold, 4 scarlet, 6 gold, 4 white, 4 slate, 3 steel, 3 slate, 5 white, 3 slate, 3 white, 1 steel, 2 white, x twice. 50th: x 9 white, 1 gold, 2 scarlet, 1 gold, 4 scarlet, 2 gold, 6 white, 4 slate, 1 white, 4 steel, 3 slate, 3 white, 4 slate, 3 white, 1 steel, 2 white, x twice. 51st: x 9 white, 1 gold, 3 scarlet, 5 gold, 6 white, 4 slate, 1 steel, * 1 white, 2 steel, * twice, 9 slate, 2 white, 1 steel, 3 white, x twice. 52nd: x 10 white, 1 gold, 5 scarlet, 2 gold, 5 white, 4 slate, 1 white, 1 steel, 1 white, 1 steel, 2 white, 3 steel, 7 slate, 3 steel, 4 white, x twice. 53rd: x 11 white, 6 gold, 5 white, 3 steel, 3 white, 1 steel, 5 white, 6 steel, 10 white, x twice. 54th: x 22 white, 1 steel, 2 white, * 1 steel, 1 white, * twice, 1 steel, 5 white, 9 steel, 6 white, x twice. 55th: x 23 white, 4 steel, 2 white, 1 steel, 2 white, 2 steel, 2 white, 7 steel, 7 white, x twice. 56th: x 19 white, 2 steel, 4 white, 1 steel, 4 white, 2 steel, 2 white, 1 steel, 3 white, 4 steel, 8 white, x twice. 57th: x 18 white, 1 steel, 2 white, 4 steel, 25 white, x twice. 58th: x all white, work round to the centre of one side; also 59th: (begin again with the plain scarlet), x 1 scarlet, 4 white, x 20 times. 60th: x 2 scarlet, 2 white, 1 scarlet, x 20 times. 61st: all scarlet; fasten off scarlet. 62nd: with the white silk, 3 chain, dropping a bead on every chain, miss 3, s.c. on both sides of the fourth; repeat all round. now, instead of working round, work backward and forward, dropping a bead on every chain stitch, so that they may all come on the right side of the purse. 1st row: 5 ch., turn, s.c. in same stitch, x 5 ch., miss 3, s.c. on s.c., x all along the row. 2nd: 6 ch., turn, s.c. on centre of 5 ch., x 5 ch., s.c. on centre of next loop of 5, x to the end. repeat this row backwards and forwards until 24 are done; then work the same pattern all round for 6 rounds. thread the rest of the gold beads on the scarlet silk, and do 2 rounds in the same way with it; then 3 rounds of white; then 2 more scarlet, 3 white, then 2 scarlet. to diminish at the end, do 2 rounds of white, like the previous; then 1 with only 4 chain; then 1 with 3 chain; and finally, a round with 2 chain between the s.c. draw it up with a needle and white silk; sew on the tassel, and slip on the rings. at the other end, do a row to close the round, with the plain scarlet in s.c.; on which work x 6 ch., miss 4, s.c. under 5th, x 10 times. turn, and in each loop work 2 s.c., 4 d.c., 2 s.c. fasten off, and sew on the deep fringe garniture. * * * * * lady's short purse. materials.--purse silk, of any two colours that contrast well, gold beads, and glass ones of one of the colours. of the silk that matches the beads, two skeins will be required, and of the other, four. for the garniture, a clasp and handsome fringe. begin by threading a hank of gold beads on two of the four skeins, leaving two without any. with regard to the colours to be selected for this purse, we may be allowed to suggest a few good contrasts, leaving the choice to the taste of the worker. a brilliant scarlet looks well with white; brown with blue; lilac with green, or _vice versa_; and pink with some of the warmer tints of stone or fawn colour. in all these, the first-named colour is to be the predominant one, except in the case of green and lilac, in which either colour may be the principal one. the immense variety of tints in german beads (nearly three hundred), gives such a power of choice, that the most artistic taste may be gratified. for the sake of accuracy in the description, we will select scarlet and white for this purse. the white beads are to be threaded on the white silk, and dropped on every stitch where white is named. with a fine crochet-hook make a chain of 120 stitches with the scarlet silk, close it into a round, and do one round of single crochet. 2nd row: x 1 gold bead, 18 silk, 1 gold, 18 silk, 2 gold, x 3 times. 3rd: x 1 silk, 1 gold, 16 silk, 3 gold, 16 silk, 1 gold, 2 silk, x 3 times. 4th: x 1 silk, 4 gold, 11 silk, 2 gold, 1 silk, 1 gold, 1 silk, 2 gold, 11 silk, 4 gold, 2 silk, x 3 times. 5th: x 1 silk, 1 gold, 3 silk, 1 gold, 10 silk, 7 gold, 10 silk, 1 gold, 3 silk, 1 gold, 1 silk, 1 gold, x. this, and every future pattern must, like the preceding ones, be repeated three times. now join on the white silk, and whenever white occurs, drop on a white bead. 6th: x 1 gold, 4 silk, 1 gold, 8 silk, 2 gold, 2 silk, 1 gold, 1 silk, 1 gold, 2 silk, 2 gold, 8 silk, 1 gold, 4 silk, 1 gold, 1 white, x repeat. 7th: x 1 gold, 4 silk, 1 gold, 5 silk, * 2 gold, 1 silk, * 5 times, 2 gold, 5 silk, 1 gold, 4 silk, 1 gold, 1 white, x repeat. 8th: x 2 gold, 1 silk, 2 gold, 1 silk, 1 gold, 1 silk, 2 gold, 1 silk, 2 gold, 2 silk, 2 gold, 5 silk, 2 gold, 2 silk, 2 gold, 1 silk, 2 gold, 1 silk, 1 gold, 1 silk, 2 gold, 1 silk, 2 gold, 1 white, x repeat. 9th: x 1 white, 2 gold, 2 silk, 2 gold, 1 silk, 2 gold, 2 silk, 3 gold, 9 silk, 3 gold, 2 silk, 2 gold, 1 silk, 2 gold, 2 silk, 2 gold, 2 white, x repeat. 10th: x 2 white, 2 gold, 3 silk, 5 gold, 15 silk, 5 gold, 3 silk, 2 gold, 3 white, x repeat. 11th: x 3 white, 3 gold, 27 silk, 3 gold, 4 white, x repeat. 12th: x 5 white, 4 gold, 21 silk, 4 gold, 6 white, x repeat. 13th: x 4 white, 1 gold, 3 white, 5 gold, 13 silk, 5 gold, 3 white, 1 gold, 5 white, x repeat. 14th: x 3 white, 4 gold, 3 white, 2 gold, 1 white, 2 gold, 9 silk, 2 gold, 1 white, 2 gold, 3 white, 4 gold, 4 white, x repeat. 15th: x 2 gold, 2 white, 4 gold, 3 white, 3 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 7 silk, 1 gold, 1 white, 3 gold, 3 white, 4 gold, 2 white, 3 gold, x repeat. 16th: x 1 gold, 3 white, 2 gold, 5 white, 4 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 5 silk, 1 gold, 1 white, 4 gold, 5 white, 2 gold, 3 white, 2 gold, x repeat. 17th: x 2 gold, 3 white, 2 gold, 3 white, 1 gold, 1 white, 3 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 5 silk, 1 gold, 1 white, 3 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 3 white, 2 gold, 3 white, 3 gold, x repeat. [illustration: lady's short purse.] 18th: x 2 gold, 10 white, 4 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 3 silk, 1 gold, 1 white, 4 gold, 10 white, 3 gold, x repeat. 19th: x 1 gold, 11 white, 2 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 3 silk, 1 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 1 white, 2 gold, 11 white, 2 gold, x repeat. 20th: x 6 white, 3 gold, 3 white, 2 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 3 silk, 1 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 1 white, 2 gold, 3 white, 3 gold, 7 white, x repeat. 21st: x 1 gold, 4 white, 3 gold, 3 white, 2 gold, 1 white, 2 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 3 silk, 1 gold, 1 white, 2 gold, 1 white, 2 gold, 3 white, 3 gold, 4 white, 2 gold, x repeat. 22nd: x 5 white, 3 gold, 6 white, 2 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 3 silk, 1 gold, 1 white, 2 gold, 6 white, 3 gold, 6 white, x repeat. 23rd: x 3 white, 1 gold, 1 white, 4 gold, 4 white, 2 gold, 2 white, 1 gold, 3 silk, 1 gold, 2 white, 2 gold, 4 white, 4 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 4 white, x repeat. 24th: x 2 white, 3 gold, 1 white, 9 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 5 silk, 1 gold, 1 white, 9 gold, 1 white, 3 gold, 3 white, x repeat. 25th: x 3 white, 1 gold, 2 white, 3 gold, 2 white, 1 gold, 5 silk, 1 gold, 2 white, 8 gold, 2 white, 1 gold, 4 white, x repeat. 26th: x 1 gold, 7 white, 4 gold, 3 white, 1 gold, 7 silk, 1 gold, 3 white, 4 gold, 7 white, 2 gold, x repeat. 27th: x 1 white, 2 gold, 12 white, 2 gold, 9 silk, 2 gold, 12 white, 2 gold, 2 white, x repeat. 28th: x 3 gold, 6 white, 4 gold, 2 white, 2 gold, 5 silk, 2 gold, 2 white, 4 gold, 6 white, 4 gold, x repeat. 29th: x 1 gold, 6 white, 2 gold, 7 white, 2 gold, 3 silk; 2 gold, 7 white, 2 gold, 6 white, 1 gold, 1 silk, x repeat. 30th: x 3 gold, 3 white, 1 gold, 2 white, 4 gold, 3 white, 1 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 1 silk, 1 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 3 white, 4 gold, 2 white, 1 gold, 3 white, 3 gold, 1 silk, x repeat. 31st: x 2 silk, 2 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 1 white, 7 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 2 white, 1 gold, 1 silk, 1 gold, 2 white, 1 gold, 1 white, 7 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 1 white, 2 gold, 2 silk, 1 gold, x repeat. 32nd: x 3 silk, 1 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 1 white, 7 gold, 3 white, 1 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 3 white, 7 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 3 silk, 1 gold, x repeat. 33rd: x 1 gold, 2 silk, 2 gold, 1 white, 3 gold, 1 white, 4 gold, 2 white, 2 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 1 white, 2 gold, 2 white, 4 gold, 1 white, 3 gold, 1 white, 2 gold, 2 silk, 2 gold, x repeat. 34th: x 2 gold, 2 silk, 1 gold, 1 white, 2 gold, 3 white, 2 gold, 3 white, 2 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 1 white, 2 gold, 3 white, 2 gold, 3 white, 2 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 2 silk, 2 gold, 1 silk, x repeat. 35th: x 1 silk, 1 gold, 2 silk, 1 gold, 1 white, 2 gold, 7 white, 2 gold, 2 white, 1 gold, 2 white, 2 gold, 7 white, 2 gold, 1 white, 1 gold, 2 silk, 1 gold, 2 silk, x repeat. * * * * * handsome purse. materials.--1 reel of _ombrã©_ crimson silk, in short shades; 1 of grey ditto; 3 skeins of rich brown purse twist, 1 skein of white ditto, 2 hanks of steel beads, no. 5; 12 rows of transparent white seed beads, 2 handsome steel slides, and a few steel bugles. the silk must all be of the finest size, and the work is to be done very tightly. begin the purse by threading the steel beads on the brown silk, and the white on the _ombrã©_ crimson. this crimson is used for the rose, and for the three small flowers; the coloured silk seen through the transparent bead has an extremely pretty effect; the leaves are entirely in steel beads, as is also the scroll which ornaments the lower part of the purse. the large flower close to the rose is done in the grey silk. [illustration: handsome purse.] with the white silk, make a chain of 120 stitches, and do one round in s.c. join on the brown silk. 1st pattern round: x 1 white, 5 steel, 4 white, 4 steel, 3 white, 4 steel, 4 white, 5 steel, x 4 times. 2nd: x 8 steel, 3 white, 3 steel, 1 white, 1 steel, 1 white, 3 steel, 3 white, 7 steel, x 4 times. 3rd: x 3 steel, 2 brown, 4 steel, 3 white, 2 steel, 1 white, 1 steel, 1 white, 2 steel, 3 white, 4 steel, 2 brown, 2 steel, x 4 times. 4th: x 2 steel, 1 brown, 1 steel, 2 brown, 4 steel, 3 white, 5 steel, 3 white, 4 steel, 2 brown, 1 steel, 1 brown, 1 steel, x 4 times. 5th: x 1 steel, 1 brown, 1 steel, 1 brown, 1 steel, 2 brown, 4 steel, 2 white, 5 steel, 2 white, 4 steel, 2 brown, 1 steel, 1 brown, 1 steel, 1 brown, x 4 times. 6th: x 1 steel, 3 brown, 1 steel, 2 brown, 4 steel, 1 white, 7 steel, 1 white, 4 steel, 2 brown, 1 steel, 3 brown, x 4 times. 7th: x 1 steel, 1 brown, 1 steel, 1 brown, 1 steel, 1 brown, 6 steel, 2 white, 3 steel, 2 white, 6 steel, 1 brown, 1 steel, 1 brown, 1 steel, 1 brown, x 4 times. 8th: x 1 steel, 1 brown, 3 steel, 1 brown, 2 steel, 1 brown, 3 steel, 1 white, 1 steel, 3 white, 1 steel, 1 white, 3 steel, 1 brown, 2 steel, 1 brown, 3 steel, 1 brown, x 4 times. 9th: x 1 steel, 2 brown, 2 steel, 4 brown, 3 steel, 2 white, 3 steel, 2 white, 3 steel, 4 brown, 2 steel, 2 brown, x 4 times. 10th: 1 steel, 2 brown, 2 steel, 1 brown, 1 steel, 1 brown, 4 steel, 2 white, 1 steel, 1 white, 1 steel, 2 white, 4 steel, 1 brown, 1 steel, 1 brown, 2 steel, 2 brown, x 4 times. 11th: x 2 brown, 2 steel, 3 brown, 5 steel, x 1 white, 1 steel, x 3 times, 1 white, 5 steel, 3 brown, 2 steel, 1 brown, x 4 times. 12th: x 2 brown, 2 steel, 2 brown, 3 steel, 1 brown, 2 steel, x 1 white, 1 steel, x 3 times, 1 white, 2 steel, 1 brown, 3 steel, 2 brown, 2 steel, 1 brown, x 4 times. 13th: x 1 brown, 2 steel, 1 brown, 2 steel, 3 brown, 2 steel, 1 white, 2 steel, 3 white, 2 steel, 1 white, 2 steel, 3 brown, 2 steel, 1 brown, 2 steel, x 4 times. 14th: x 2 steel, 4 brown, 1 steel, 1 brown, x 3 steel, 1 white, x 3 times, 3 steel, 1 brown, 1 steel, 4 brown, 1 steel, x 4 times. 15th: x 1 steel, 1 brown, 2 steel, 1 brown, 1 steel, 2 brown, 3 steel, 2 white, 2 steel, 1 white, 2 steel, 2 white, 3 steel, 2 brown, 1 steel, 1 brown, 2 steel, 1 brown, x 4 times. 16th: x 1 steel, 3 brown, 2 steel, 2 brown, 3 steel, 9 white, 3 steel, 2 brown, 2 steel, 3 brown, x 4 times. 17th: x 2 steel, 2 brown, 2 steel, 2 brown, 1 steel, 1 brown, 2 steel, 2 white, 1 steel, 1 white, 1 steel, 2 white, 2 steel, 1 brown, 1 steel, 2 brown, 2 steel, 2 brown, 1 steel, x 4 times. 18th: x 2 steel, 2 brown, 3 steel, 3 brown, 5 steel, 1 white, 5 steel, 3 brown, 3 steel, 2 brown, 1 steel, x 4 times. 19th: x 1 steel, 4 brown, 3 steel, 3 brown, 3 steel, 3 brown, 3 steel, 3 brown, 3 steel, 4 brown, x 4 times. fasten off the white silk, and do three plain rounds with the brown. then join on the crimson silk, at a light part of the shade, if possible. in the future part of the pattern crimson means the shaded silk, white one of the white beads threaded on it. 23rd: x 4 brown, 2 white, 10 brown, 1 steel, 16 brown, 4 steel, 23 brown, x twice. 24th: x 3 brown, 1 white, 1 crimson, 1 white, 10 brown, 5 steel, 11 brown, 1 steel, 2 brown, 3 steel, 1 brown, 3 steel, 18 brown. x twice. 25th: x 3 brown, 1 white, 2 crimson, 3 white, 7 brown, 6 steel, 1 brown, 1 steel, 8 brown, 3 steel, 1 brown, 2 steel, 1 brown, 4 steel, 8 brown, 4 steel, 5 brown, x twice. 26th: x 2 brown, 1 white, 2 crimson, 2 steel, 2 crimson, 1 white, 7 brown, 2 steel, 1 brown, 5 steel, 8 brown, 6 steel, 1 brown, 2 steel, 8 brown, 6 steel, 4 brown, x twice. 27th: x 1 brown, 1 white, 3 crimson, 2 steel, 1 crimson, 2 white, 8 brown, 2 steel, 2 brown, 3 steel, 11 brown, 3 steel, 10 brown, 2 steel, 2 brown, 3 steel, 4 brown, x twice. join on the gray. 28th: x 1 brown, 1 white, 2 crimson, 1 white, 2 crimson, 1 white, 9 brown, 3 steel, 4 brown, 1 gray, 5 brown, 2 steel, 2 brown, 1 steel, 2 brown, 3 white, 5 brown, 1 steel, 1 brown, 4 steel, 5 brown, x twice. 29th: x 2 brown, 2 white, 1 brown, 1 white, 2 crimson, 1 white, 1 steel, 2 brown, 3 steel, 1 brown, 1 steel, 1 brown, 2 steel, 1 brown, 2 gray, 4 brown, 3 gray, 2 brown, 5 steel, 1 brown, 1 steel, 1 brown, 5 white, 4 brown, 5 steel, 6 brown, x twice. 30th: x 5 brown, 1 white, 2 crimson, 1 white, 9 steel, 2 brown, 5 gray, 2 brown, 3 gray, 1 brown, 7 steel, 1 brown, 6 white, 1 brown, 3 white, 11 brown, x twice. 31st: x 6 brown, 2 white, 1 brown, 9 steel, 2 brown, 5 gray, 2 brown, 3 gray, 2 brown, 5 steel, 2 brown, 11 white, 10 brown, x twice. 32nd: x 2 brown, 2 white, 6 brown, 2 steel, 1 brown, 6 steel, 2 brown, 5 gray, 1 brown, 3 gray, 3 brown, 4 steel, 2 brown, 4 white, 6 crimson, 2 white, 3 brown, 5 steel, 1 brown, x twice. 33rd: x 1 brown, 1 white, 1 crimson, 1 white, 1 crimson, 3 white, 3 brown, 2 steel, 2 brown, 4 steel, 3 brown, 4 gray, 1 brown, 2 gray, 5 brown, 1 steel, 1 brown, 1 steel, 2 brown, 3 white, 1 crimson, 4 white, 1 crimson, 1 white, 1 crimson, 1 white, 2 brown, 2 steel, 2 brown, 3 steel, x twice. 34th: x 1 brown, x 1 white, 2 crimson, x twice; 1 white, 2 brown, 5 steel, 3 brown, 1 steel, 3 brown, 2 gray, 1 steel, 4 gray, 2 brown, 2 gray, 7 brown, 1 white, 1 crimson, 1 white, 1 crimson, 2 white, 1 crimson, 3 white, 3 brown, 1 steel, 1 brown, 4 steel, 1 brown, x twice. 35th: x 2 brown, 1 white, 2 steel, 3 crimson, 1 white, 2 brown, 7 steel, 3 brown, 2 gray, 4 steel, 8 gray, 3 brown, 2 white, 1 crimson, 3 white, 2 crimson, 1 white, 2 crimson, 2 white, 2 brown, 5 steel, 2 brown, x twice. 36th: x 2 white, 1 crimson, 2 steel, 1 crimson, 1 white, 1 crimson, 1 white, 3 brown, 5 steel, 2 brown, 4 gray, 2 steel, 2 gray, 1 steel, 8 gray, 1 brown, 3 white, 1 crimson, 3 white, 1 crimson, 1 white, 2 crimson, 1 white, 1 crimson, 2 white, 8 brown, x twice. 37th: x 3 crimson, 1 white, 1 crimson, 1 white, 1 crimson, 2 white, 1 brown, 2 white, 6 brown, 10 gray, 1 steel, 7 gray, 1 brown, 3 white, 1 crimson, 3 white, 1 crimson, 1 white, 1 crimson, 1 white, 1 crimson, 2 white, 3 brown, 2 steel, 3 brown, 1 white, x twice. 38th: x 2 crimson, 1 white, 3 crimson, 1 white, 2 brown, 1 white, 1 crimson, 1 white, 6 brown, 9 gray, 1 steel, 8 gray, 2 brown, 2 white, 1 crimson, 3 white, 1 crimson, 1 white, 3 crimson, 3 white, 1 brown, 5 steel, 1 brown, 1 white, x twice. 39th: x 2 white, 1 brown, 1 white, 2 crimson, 1 white, 1 brown, 2 white, 2 crimson, 3 white, 4 brown, 8 gray, 1 steel, 7 gray, 2 brown, 3 white, x 1 crimson, 2 white, x 3 times, 1 crimson, 1 white, 1 brown, 1 steel, 3 brown, 4 steel, x twice. 40th: x 4 brown, 2 white, 1 brown, 1 white, 2 crimson, 1 white, 2 steel, 1 crimson, 1 white, 1 brown, 2 steel, 3 brown, 3 gray, 1 brown, 1 gray, 2 steel, 3 gray, 1 brown, 2 gray, 3 brown, 3 white, 1 crimson, 1 white, 1 crimson, 1 white, 1 crimson, 2 white, 2 crimson, 2 white, 1 brown, 7 steel, 1 brown, x twice. 41st: x 6 brown, 1 white, 4 crimson, 2 steel, 2 white, 2 brown, 2 steel, 6 brown, 1 gray, 2 steel, 4 gray, 5 brown, 4 white, 1 crimson, 3 white, 1 crimson, 1 white, 1 brown, 5 steel, 2 brown, x twice. 42nd: x 6 brown, 1 white, x 2 crimson, 1 white, x twice, 2 brown, 2 steel, 2 brown, 2 steel, 1 brown, 1 steel, 2 brown, 8 gray, 5 brown, 2 white, 1 brown, 1 white, 1 crimson, 2 white, 1 crimson, 2 white, 1 crimson, 1 white, 10 brown, x twice. 43rd: x 7 brown, 2 white, 1 brown, 1 white, 2 crimson, 1 white, 4 brown, 2 steel, 1 brown, 2 steel, 2 brown, 4 gray, 1 brown, 4 gray, 7 brown, 2 white, 5 crimson, 1 white, 11 brown, x twice. 44th: x 10 brown, 1 white, 2 crimson, 1 white, 3 brown, 2 steel, 1 brown, 3 steel, 1 brown, 5 gray, 2 brown, 3 gray, 5 brown, 1 steel, 2 brown, 6 white, 12 brown, x twice. 45th: x 10 brown, 1 steel, 2 white, 3 brown, 3 steel, 1 brown, 3 steel, 1 brown, 5 gray, 6 brown, 6 steel, 2 brown, 4 white, 13 brown, x twice. 46th: x 6 brown, 4 steel, 6 brown, 7 steel, 2 brown, 4 gray, 5 brown, 4 steel, 1 brown, 3 steel, 5 brown, 5 steel, 8 brown, x twice. 47th: x 5 brown, 4 steel, 7 brown, 5 steel, 5 brown, 2 gray, 5 brown, 3 steel, 2 brown, 4 steel, 4 brown, 7 steel, 7 brown, x twice. 48th: x 4 brown, 1 steel, 13 brown, 3 steel, 11 brown, 7 steel, 2 brown, 1 steel, 4 brown, 2 steel, 2 brown, 4 steel, 6 brown, x twice. 49th: x 19 brown, 1 steel, 13 brown, 5 steel, 9 brown, 6 steel, 7 brown, x twice. do two plain rounds with the brown; then make the other end, and with the crimson silk do about 20 rows of open square crochet; join it to the second end, with the opening at the centre of one side, having, previously slipped on the rings. to close up the ends of the purse.--s.c. the two edges together with white silk, on which do x 4 d.c., 4 ch., miss 4 x, end with 4 d.c. 2nd row: 7 d.c. under every chain, and one s.c. between the second and third d.c. of last row. turn with a fringe made of steel beads and bugles. * * * * * mousquetaire crochet collar. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton, no. 40. penelope hook, no. 5. make a round loop, work 8 double in the loop. 2nd round: work 2 double at the top of each of the one double of last round, repeat round. 3rd: the same as last, and after you have worked round, plain one to form the round. (you should have 32 loops in the round). 4th: ch. 3, miss 1, work 1 treble; ch. 5, work 1 treble in the same loop as before; ch. 3 miss 1, work 1 double in the next loop, repeat round, fasten off. 5th: work 3 treble in the centre of five ch. of last round; ch. 3, work 3 treble in the same loop as before; ch. 2, and repeat round, plain 1 and fasten off with it, complete the round. work 4 rounds more, the same for each scollop, or 32 for the collar, then work 18 of the following pattern for the leaf:-make a chain of 40 loops, turn back and work them in double crochet, turn back. 2nd round: work 2 plain and 2 double for the stalk part of the leaf; then ch. 2, miss 2, and work 1 treble, until you come to the end; then ch. 3 and work one treble at the end; work the other side the same, in order to make both sides to correspond; ch. 2, turn back. 3rd: work 2 plain in the 2 ch. of last round, then ch. 3, miss the 2 ch. of last round, and work 1 treble at the top of the 1 treble of last round; repeat round, and work 2 plain at the end, ch. 2, turn back. 4th: work 2 plain in the two ch. of last round, ch. 3, miss 2, work 1 treble, then ch. 4 and work 2 treble at the top of the 1 treble of last round, repeat round with the ch. 4, and work 2 treble at the top of the 1 treble of last round, making both sides to correspond, fasten off. 5th: ch. 12 for the stalk of the leaf, plain 1 in the first four chains of last round, then ch. 4 and plain 1 in the centre of each of the 4 chains all round the leaf; then work the last 8 chains double for the stalk, which completes the leaf; make the number of leaves required, then join the flowers and leaves together, as shown in the illustration, with a needle and crochet thread. [illustration: mousquetaire crochet collar.] then work the following band along the neck part of the collar--pass the hook through the two ends of the stalk part of the leaf, and plain 1, chain 40, and repeat to the end, turn back. 2nd row: ch. 4, miss 2, and plain 1; repeat to the end, turn back. 3rd: ch. 4, plain 1, in the centre of the 4 chains of last row, repeat to the end, turn back. 4th: work 3 treble in the centre of 4 chains of last row; ch. 2, and repeat to the end, turn back. 5th: ch. 3, plain 1, in the centre of the first 2 chain of last row; repeat to the end, turn back. 6th: ch. 2, plain 1 in the centre of the 3 chain, of last row; repeat to the end, fasten off, which completes the collar. * * * * * raised rose crochet collar. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet thread, no. 40, and penelope crochet hook, no. 5. this collar is made in portions, and joined together with needle and thread, or worked together with one plain at the option of the worker. to form the rose.--make a chain of 8 loops, plain 1, to form a round, fasten off. [illustration: raised rose crochet collar.] 2nd: work 1 treble, ch. 3, repeat round, plain 1, and fasten off; you should have seven treble in the round. 3rd: plain 1 at the top of the 1 treble of last round, work 8 treble in the 3 ch. of last round, plain 1 at the top of the next 1 treble of last round, repeat in the same 1 treble all round, fasten off. 4th: work 1 treble at the top of the 1 plain of last round, chain 6, repeat round, plain 1 at the top of the 1 treble to form the round, fasten off. 5th: plain 1 at the top of the 1 treble of last round, work 8 treble in the 6 ch. of last round, plain 1 at the top of the next 1 treble of last round, repeat in the same loop as before, repeat round, fasten off. 6th: work 1 treble at the top of the 1 plain of last round, ch. 9, repeat round, plain 1, fasten off. 7th: plain 1 at the top of the 1 treble of last round, work 10 treble in the 9 ch. of last round, plain 1 at the top of the next 1 treble of last round, repeat in the same loop as before all round. 8th: work 1 treble at the top of the 1 plain of last round, ch. 12, repeat round, plain 1, fasten off. 9th: plain 1 at the top of the 1 treble of last round, work 13 treble in the 12 ch. of last round, plain 1 in the 1 treble of last round, repeat round. 10th: ch. 5, miss 2, plain 1, repeat round each fold of the rose. 11th: ch. 5, plain 1 in the centre of the 5 ch. of last round, repeat round; fasten off, which completes the rose; you require 7 of these flowers to form the collar, and 6 of the following:-large rounds.--make a round loop, the size of this o, and work 30 treble in the round loop. 2nd round: ch. 19, miss 5, plain 1, repeat round. 3rd: work double crochet in each loop all round. 4th: ch. 5, miss 2, plain 1, repeat round. 5th: ch. 5, plain 1 in the centre of the 5 ch. of last round, repeat round. 6th: ch. 4, plain 1 in the centre of the 5 ch. of last round, repeat round. 7th: ch. 3, plain 1 in the centre of the 4 ch. of last round, repeat round, fasten off, which completes the round; you then work 74 of the following:-small rounds.--make a round loop, the size of this o, and work 21 double in the round loop. 2nd round: ch., 9, miss 2, plain 1; repeat round; you should have 7 lots of the 9 chain in the round. 3rd: d.c. in each loop all round, which completes the round; you now require 14 of the following:-pattern for leaf.--make a ch. of 12 loops, turn back, and work the 12 loops d.c. 2nd round: ch. 3, miss 2, work two treble in 1 loop, repeat to the end, and in the end loop ch. 3, work 2 treble, work the other side the same, with the treble opposite, the treble and 3 ch. at the end, plain 1 in the end loop, fasten off. 3rd: plain 1 in the centre of the first 3 ch. of last round, ch. 3, work 1 treble at the top of the first treble of last round, ch. 2, work 1 treble at the top of the next treble of last round; you repeat all round the leaf with 3 ch., opposite the 3 ch. of last round, and 2 treble at the top of the 2 treble of last round, with 2 ch. between them, working both sides to correspond, turn back. 4th: ch. 4 and plain 1 in each lot of the chain of last round, fasten off, which completes the leaf; you then work a stalk to each leaf as follows: ch. 5, work 1 treble in the centre of the chain round between the edge and the centre, work 1 treble on the other side, the same turn back, and work the 5 chains plain, fasten off, which completes the stalk; after working the number of each portion required and joining them together, as shown in the illustration, you work a band for the neck-part of the collar as follows:-work a few plain at the end, then ch. 10, and work 1 treble where it requires a treble, and a double where it requires a double, and a plain in the centre of the stalks and rounds as you see the stitches in the engraving, so as to make it lie to the shape of the neck. 2nd row: ch. 2, miss 2, work 1 treble, repeat to the end, turn back. 3rd: ch. 2, work 1 treble at the top of the treble of last row, repeat to the end, turn back. 4th: d.c., fasten off, which completes the collar. [illustration: point collar.] * * * * * point collar. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton, no. 48. this collar is begun by making the open hem work thus: 2 ch., miss 3, 1 s.d.c., 2 ch., miss 1 s.d.c., x 2 ch., miss 1, 1 d.c., x 3 times, then 2 ch., miss 1, 1 s.t.c., then use the t.c., and finally the long t.c. for the widest parts, and gradually decreasing to s.c. at the end. on the inner side of this, do as many half-circles as the engraving indicates: thus, 1 s.c. 1 s.d.c. 1 d.c., 2 t.c., 1 d.c., 1 s.d.c., 1 s.c.; the roses near the neck may then be worked and joined to these circles in their places. the oblong flowers are then done, beginning in the centre, with a chain, worked in s.c., a round of d.c. on this, and a succession of loops all round. join these flowers in their places; then make the roses, working from the engraving which is the best guide, joining these to each other, and to the oblong flowers, and finally working the neck with the dotted bars as seen in the engraving. * * * * * point collar in crochet. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton, no. 48. penelope hook. each of the rows in this collar, large and small, are done separately, beginning with the circle in the centre, and making the six leaves round it. each rose is to be joined to the others, where it is indicated in the engraving, and at the point of two of the petals of the largest are three small loops, which serve to connect it with the edge. all the sets of roses required for the length of the collar being done, the barred edge follows, the trefoils being worked on it, where they occur, and the roses being joined to it in their proper places. on this line, another of alternate close and open squares is done, and then a point edging, similar to one already given in this volume. the ground, of chains, worked back in slip-stitch with occasional picots, is to be done when forming the band for the neck. the collars should be worked a little larger than the engraving. * * * * * lounging cap. materials.--six skeins of bright scarlet berlin wool; 5 shades of green ditto, 6 skeins each; 12 skeins of black, and 4 of gray; 4 skeins of white, and 4 of gray floss silk, or filoselle. a handsome shaded tassel, and a ball of crochet cord. the whole of this cap is worked in s.c., over the cord. begin with the band round the head, by working 240 stitches with black wool, on the cord, and closing into a round. 2nd round: (black and gray wool) x 2 black and 2 gray alternately, x all round. 3rd: (black wool, white silk) x 1 b., 3 w., x all round. 4th: black all round. 5th: scarlet all round. 6th: (scarlet and darkest green) x 2 s., 4 g., 42 s., x 5 times. [illustration: point collar, in crochet.] 7th: (scarlet, same green, and white) x 2 s., 5 g., 6 s., 3 w., 9 s., 3 g., 16 s., 2 w., 2 s., x 5 times. 8th: (scarlet, second darkest green, black, and white) x 2 s., 2 g., 1 b., 3 g., 4 s., 5 w., 4 s., 2 g., 1 s., 3 g., 5 s., 4 g., 4 s., 3 w., 1 s., 3 w., 1 s., 3 w., 1 s., x 5 times. 9th: (same colours) x 2 s., 3 g., 1 b., 2 g., 4 s., 1 w., 4 s., 4 w., 2 s., 2 g., 6 s., 6 g., 2 s., 5 w., 1 s., 2 w., 1 s., x 5 times. 10th: (scarlet, black, white, and gray silk; third shade of green) x 3 s., 3 g., 1 b., 1 g., 2 s., 2 w., 1 s., 4 gray, 1 s., 4 w., 2 s., 1 g., 5 s., 3 g., 1 b., 3 g., 1 s., 4 w., 2 s., 1 g., 1 s., 2 w., x 5 times. 11th: (same colours) x 1 w., 3 s., 4 g., 1 s., 2 w., 1 s., 1 g., 1 s., 4 g., 1 s., 3 w., 3 s., 3 g., 2 s., 2 g., 1 b., 4 g., 1 s., 3 w., 2 s., 3 g., 1 s., 1 w., x 5 times. 12th: (same colours except green, which change to the next lightest) x 2 w., 3 s., 6 g., 1 s., 1 g., 2 s., 3 g., 1 s., 2 w., 3 s., 5 g., 1 s., 1 g., 1 b., 4 g., 2 s., 3 w., 1 s., 2 g., 1 s., 1 g., 1 w., x 5 times. 13th: (same colours, with the lightest green) x 2 w. (over the two first of last round), 7 s., 3 g.. 2 w., 3 s., 1 g., 1 s., 1 w., 3 s., 4 g., 2 b., 1 g., 1 b., 4 g., 3 s., 5 w., 1 s., 2 g., 1 s., 1 w., x 5 times. [illustration: lounging cap, in crochet.] 14th: (same colours, with the lightest green but one) x 1 w., 3 s., 5 g., 2 s., 2 w., 1 s., 3 g., 1 s., 3 w., 2 s., 2 g., 2 b., 4 g., 5 s., 2 g., 1 s., 1 w., 1 s., 2 g., 1 s., 2 g., 1 s., 1 w., x 5 times. 15th: (same colours, with next darkest green) 3 s., 4 g., 1 b., 1 g., 2 s., 1 w., 1 s., 1 w., 1 s., 2 w., 1 s., 3 w., 2 s., 7 g., 1 s., 5 g., 2 s., 3 w., 1 s., 3 g., 1 s., 1 w., 1 s., x 5 times. 16th: (scarlet, black, white, and next darkest green) x 6 g., 1 b., 2 g., 2 s., 3 w., 2 s. 5 w., 3 s., 5 g., 1 s., 3 g., 1 b., 2 g., 2 s., 4 w., 3 s., 1 w., 1 s., 1 g., x 5 times. 17th: (same colours) x 1 s., 1 g., 1 s., 2 g., 1 b., 3 g., 3 s., 9 w., 2 s., 1 g., 6 s., 2 g., 1 b., 3 g., 5 s., 5 w., 2 s., x 5 times. 18th: (scarlet, white, and darkest green) x 1 g., 2 s., 5 g., 5 s., 4 w., 1 s., 2 w., 2 s., 2 g., 6 s., 5 g., 7 s., 3 w., 3 s., x 5 times. 19th: (scarlet and darkest green) x 4 s., 3 g. over centre three of 5 g., 15 s., 1 g., 8 s., 3 g., 14 s., x 5 times. four rounds of scarlet complete the band round the head. the top of the cap.--this is a worked from the centre, and gradually increased until of the same dimensions as the band, that is, containing 240 stitches. begin by working 12 stitches with black wool on the cord, and forming it into a round. 2 round: increase to 24 stitches. 3rd: increase to 40. 4th: (black and gray) x 2 g., 2 b., x 13 times. 5th: (black and white) x 3 w. over 2 g., 2 b. over 2 b., x 13 times. 6th: (black and scarlet) x 4 s. over 3 w., 2 b. over b., x 13 times. 7th to 11th: (all scarlet) increasing sufficiently to keep the work flat, and having 120 stitches in the last round, or 8 times 15. 12th: (white, scarlet, and lightest green) x 3 s., 4 g., 4 s., 2 w., 2 s., 1 w., 2 s., 1 g., x 8 times. observe that care must be taken to increase so that the pattern begins always at the same point. 14th: (white, scarlet, and third green) x 2 g., 2 s., 2 g. over second and third of 4 g. in last round, 5 s., 3 w., 2 s., 1 w., 1 s., 2 g., x 8 times. 15th: (same colours) x 2 s. over 2 g., 2 more s., 1 g., 1 s., 1 g., 3 s. over 2, 1 g., 2 s., 2 w., 2 s., 1 w., 2 s., 2 g., x 8 times. 16th: (darkest green but one, white, and scarlet) x 1 s., 2 w., 1 s., 1 w., 1 s., 2 g., 1 s., 2 g., 5 s., 2 w., 1 s., 2 g., 1 s., x 8 times. 17th: (same colours) x 1 s., 4 w., 3 s., 3 g., 5 s., 2 w., 1 s., 2 g., 3 s., x 8 times. 18th: (darkest green, white, and scarlet) x 2 s., 2 w. (over second and third of 4 white in last round), 5 s., 12 g., the last over the first of 2 green, 5 scarlet, x 8 times. there will now be 208 stitches, work on two rounds of scarlet, increasing to 240, and then join on the band. this is done by holding the top of the band and the edge of the round together, and working one round, taking up the chain of both. work on the cord with black wool and white silk, two stitches of each alternately; draw in the end of twine. take care in placing the two parts of the cap together, to make that part which begins every round at the same place in both, as a small defect in the pattern is inevitable, and must be covered by the tassel. draw the string of the tassel through the centre of the crown, and fasten it in its place. the cap may be lined with scarlet sarsenet. * * * * * crochet edgings and insertions. the whole of these edgings and insertions are intended to be worked either with or without beads. if to be worked with beads, 1 chain stitch must be reckoned in the foundation, for every square, and the ground must be perfectly solid, with the pattern in beads. if to be worked in square crochet, 3 chains must be allowed for every square. in the scallops the ends of the thread must be neatly run in after they are done. reckoning from that part where the actual scallop begins, each must be done distinctly from the others. [illustration: crochet edgings and insertions.] [illustration: crochet edgings and insertions.] insertions. to be worked in square crochet. the materials, any number of brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head crochet cotton that will be suitable for the purpose. all these square crochet patterns may be done in beads, if desirable. [illustration: insertions] * * * * * point lace instructions. the outlines of any design in point lace are made in braid of various sorts, in thread, or sometimes in linen. the braid used is either french linen or cotton braid, or that now known as italian braid. french braid is a simple plait, more or less wide; italian braid is, in fact, a pillow lace insertion, somewhat resembling a tape, but with edges like those seen in all other pillow lace. it enters very much into the composition of venetian and other valuable italian lace, whence the name italian braid has been given to it. point lace used formerly to be worked on parchment, this, however, being very hard and stiff, is not so pleasant a material to work on as coloured paper, which may be lined with calico or alpaca, according to the work intended to be done. french braid, whether made of linen or of cotton, is laid on the pattern with stitches taken across it, from one edge to the other. this mode of putting on braid prevents it from stretching, as, from the nature of the plait, it would otherwise do. in forming angles, each edge should be sewn down to the paper, and then the braid turned over. circles are made by laying the braid on the design, and forming it into the proper shape with the fingers, before tacking it down. we give a diagram showing the manner in which lines of braid cross and intersect each other, to form the pattern; and we would observe, _en passant_, that each line is done with a separate piece of braid, that from a to b being one piece, and from c to d another. italian braid, being so much wider, requires to be tacked down at both edges; and in forming circles and scrolls, one edge has, not unfrequently, to be gathered in slightly. when thread is used as an outline, a second, and much finer thread is used to tack it down. the coarse thread is laid on the outlines, and the needle is brought up on one side of it, and down, in the same hole, on the other. the stitches are taken at the rate of five or six to an inch, one being always placed at the point of each angle, so as to keep the outlines as accurate as possible. to fasten on a thread, run the needle along the braid a little way, taking a button-hole stitch to secure it. fasten off in the same manner. if the outlines are in thread, you can twist the needle round it two or three times, and then take a tight button-hole stitch. the chief stitch in all point lace is that known as the common button-hole or overcast stitch. this stitch, worked as closely as possible, or at regular intervals, drawn tightly, or the reverse, forms almost all the stitches, or more properly _laces_, used. we will begin by describing the simplest of all, which is known as [illustration: brussels edge.] brussels edge (no. 1). this is a continuous line of button-hole stitches, not drawn tightly, and taken at equal distances of about the fourteenth part of an inch. when worked on braid, care should be taken that the needle is inserted at a little distance from the edge of the braid, which would otherwise be apt to fray. little venetian edging (no. 2). in working this stitch, do one brussels, and in the loop of that work a _tight_ stitch. venetian edging (no. 3). do four stitches instead of one in the loop of the brussels stitch. sorrento edging (no. 4). do a stitch exactly like little venetian, the eighth of an inch long, and then one-half that length in the same manner. continue to work these alternately. venetian bars (no. 6). take the needle across the space to be barred, once, twice, or oftener, according to the thickness of the bar, and then cover these threads quite closely with button-hole stitch. the veinings of leaves are often worked in venetian bars, over a ground of brussels lace. as this is to be done without breaking off a thread, it requires some little management. begin by making the foundation thread of the vein running from the base of the leaf to the point, taking one, two, or three threads, but always beginning _at the point_ to cover it with button-hole stitch. do enough to come to the first veinings branching from it; slip the needle across to the braid, in the proper direction, taking a close button-hole stitch to fasten it: cover it with button-hole up to the centre vein; then do the companion one in the same manner, and continue to work each pair as you come to it on the principal veining. edged venetian bars (no. 5). this is a venetian bar, like the last, edged with brussels or venetian edging. this, with various other bars, frequently forms the groundwork of the guipured lace. english bars (no. 7). these are frequently worked between two lines of brussels or venetian edging to connect them. they are made by passing the needle backwards and forwards through two opposite stitches, always tacking the under side of each, so that the threads be across the space smoothly and evenly. about four times each way will be sufficient. they are usually done across between two stitches, and then one at each edge is missed before the next bar is made. sometimes these bars are radiated, a single stitch of the edge being missed on one side, and two at the other. sorrento bars (no. 8). these are bars which occur most frequently in italian lace. they are simply twisted threads, so closely entwined that they only appear as one. they also are frequently radiated, and crossed; the effect produced will be seen in the accompanying diagram. dotted venetian bars (no. 9). a bar of threads is made, as for a common venetian bar. do on it six stitches, and instead of drawing the seventh tight, hold the top by sticking a needle through it and the paper, about the tenth of an inch, and work on the threads of the loop three button-hole stitches. do six more on the bar, and repeat. [illustration: venetian edging.] [illustration: venetian bars.] [illustration: edged venetian bars.] [illustration: sorrento bars.] raleigh bars (no. 10). make a bar of threads, as for venetian bars, and work on it about eight stitches. at the ninth, instead of bringing up the needle through the loop to form another button-hole, slip it under the bar, and bring it up on the right-hand side, leaving a loop of thread about two inches long, which you will hold down with your thumb, to keep it in its place. now twist your needle six times under the right hand thread of this loop; draw it up, when it will make a knot, and slip the needle through it, above the bar, to continue the process. it may be observed that when this bar forms a part of the foundation of a piece of point, only two of these dots are generally seen on it, and they are placed near each other, almost in the centre of the bar. point d'alenã�on (no. 11). this is only common herring-bone stitch, with the needle twisted once or oftener under the thread of each stitch, according as the space to be filled is narrow or wide. spanish point (no. 12). this is the raised stitch which gives the peculiarly rich appearance to all the spanish lace. a certain thickness of soft cotton is tacked down on the lace, in the form desired, and this is covered closely with button-hole stitch, edged with raleigh dots, or with small loops. it is to be noticed that this is not attached to the lace by the button-hole stitches, but only by the thread which tacks down the soft cotton, so that it can be picked off without injury. the button-hole stitches must be worked very smoothly, and quite close together. rosette (no. 13). this is exactly like a spider's web, worked on three, four, or more threads, according to the shape of the space intended to be filled. begin by making a sorrento bar across the space, from one point to the opposite; then a second one, slipping the needle under the first in going, and over it in twisting back; then do a third, or fourth, if necessary; but when you have twisted back to the centre of the last, make the rosette, leaving the half bar single. the rosette is done by passing the needle under two threads, then continuing to slip it under two, the first of which is always the last of the previous two, until you have made the spot a sufficient size, when you finish the last bar, by twisting down to the braid, and fastening off. the size of the space must be the guide for that of the rosette; but from six to ten times round a centre is an average. [illustration: stitches.] brussels lace (no. 14). consecutive rows of brussels edging, worked alternately from left to right, and from right to left. venetian lace (no. 15). rows of venetian edging. as this stitch can only be worked from left to right, a line of brussels is usually placed between every two rows, and being worked from right to left, saves the trouble of running the needle along the braid. sorrento lace (no. 16). successive rows of the sorrento edging. english lace (no. 17). this is to be worked with the finest thread that is made. do a number of sorrento bars (closely twisted threads), at equal distances, in one direction throughout the space: then take one thread under all these, in exactly the opposite direction; take a stitch on the braid to secure it, and twist to the first cross. pass the needle under the single thread and over the twisted one, till it has gone four times round, when the spot will be sufficiently large. twist on the single thread to the next cross, and repeat. do this until the whole space is filled, as seen in the engraving, where the distance between the threads is sufficiently accurately represented. this lace always looks best, however, when the lines are diagonal. english lace is often radiated; that is, the lines are more distant from each other at one edge than at the other, and the spots proportionably larger, presenting the appearance of a fan. [illustration: open english lace.] [illustration: brabant edging.] open english lace (no. 18). this is a variety of the previous lace, being worked in the same way, but on four lines of threads, instead of two, namely, one diagonal from left to right, one from right to left, one horizontal, and one perpendicular. the spots are worked on the last line made. the distance of the lines is seen in the engraving. [illustration: lyons point.] [illustration: brussels lace.] the accompanying diagram gives another variety of open english lace. the straight bars are formed of single threads, while the diagonal ones are twisted; and at every cross a tight button-hole stitch is worked, to keep the threads together. observe, that in working bars, a tight stitch should always be taken on the braid, at the beginning and end of every one. mecklin wheels (no. 19). work venetian bars on a single thread, in one direction, at equal distances. then take a thread in the opposite direction, and cover it also with button-hole stitch a little beyond the first cross. take another needle and thread and work a few stitches, in the form of a circle, round each cross, so that by slipping the first needle through every stitch, a foundation may be formed for the button-hole work with which the wheel is made, a single raleigh dot being added between every two threads. the stitches taken with the extra needle should form a sort of railroad for holding the thread in its place. this mode of working wheels will be found very superior to the old one of pinning down the circle of thread. when all the wheels are worked, the stitches made with the extra needle should be cut away at the back. henriquez lace (no. 20). this stitch, and the one that follows it, are invariably worked with the finest thread manufactured. like english lace, it has a better effect done on diagonal bars, than on those which are taken straight up and down, or across a space. make one twisted bar across the space, then take a single thread nearly close to it. twist it twice round, then darn a spot on the two threads; twist five or six times round, darn another, and repeat to the end. do all the lines in one direction first, making the spots fall one beneath the other. then begin the lines in the opposite direction, taking the thread under in one way, and over in returning, whilst, in order to keep the close bars apart, the thread must be twisted between them. care must be taken that the bars in one direction, fall between the spots in the other. cordovan lace (no. 21). worked like the preceding; but with three bars in each line instead of two. valenciennes lace (no. 22). this stitch also is done with the finest threads made. it is simple darning, of the closest and finest description, done with so much regularity that it resembles cambric. brabant edging is a name sometimes given to a union of the brussels with the venetian edging. a row of brussels is first worked, and on it a row of venetian. the diagram gives the effect of this arrangement. another variety of edging is produced by two or three rows of brussels being worked on one another. this is frequently seen in old lace; and, with venetian on the outer edge of the braid, is often termed lyons point. when spaces similar to those in the accompanying diagram are to be filled with brussels lace, the best way is to work each side to the centre, and then run the needle up the middle, catching up alternately a stitch on each side. sometimes the centre is not closed up at all. the diagram in page 132 gives a specimen of a modification of the little venetian lace. the first stitch is taken as usual, but is followed by three others, worked as closely as possible. a space equal to that of four stitches is left between every four. in the second row, the four stitches are worked on the loop. the engraving also shows how the stitches are adapted to the different spaces in a pattern. foundation stitch (no. 23). this is ordinary button-hole stitch, worked over a thread, and as closely as possible. the thread is taken across the space, from right to left, to form a bar, which is then covered with close brussels, worked from left to right. each stitch of a row is worked between two of the previous rows. escalier stitch (no. 24). work nine button hole stitches as close to each other as possible. miss the space of two, and repeat. in the second row, work one after each of the first seven, miss the space of the last two, work two on the loop, and seven more on the next nine, miss the last two of the nine; repeat in every successive row, passing over the last two of nine stitches, and doing two on the vacant space. cadiz lace (no. 25). do six close brussels stitches. miss the space of two, do two more, and again miss the space of two, repeat from the six stitches. 2nd row: do two over the loop of every space, and miss all the stitches, whether six or two. repeat these two rows alternately, to form the lace. barcelona lace (no. 26). the first row of this lace is exactly like sorrento edging. 2nd row: do four close stitches on the long stitch, and miss the short one, taking care not to draw the thread too tightly. 3rd: a row of sorento edging, the long stitch coming over the four stitches of the last row, and both the button-holes being worked on the loop, so that the short stitches come over the short of the first row. these two rows, worked alternately, make the lace. fan lace (no. 27), 1st row: six close brussels, miss the space of six. repeat. 2nd: six stitches over every six, miss the same space. 3rd: six close brussels on every loop, missing the space between. 4th: six over every six, and six on every loop. 5th: six close over the six on the long loop, miss the other six. repeat these last three rows as often as may be required to fill up the space. [illustration: little venetian lace.] spotted lace (no. 28). this very light and pretty lace is done thus:-1st: x two close button-hole stitches, miss the space of four, x repeat to the end, without drawing the thread too tightly. begin the next row, and all following, at a little distance from the one preceding, and do two close stitches on every loop of thread. venetian spotted lace (no. 29). this lace consists of a series diamonds, formed by venetian bars crossing each other diagonally, in each of the sections of which, four spots of english lace are to be worked. the foundation threads of the venetian bars are first laid; then the english lace spots are worked, and the button-hole stitch of the venetian bars is done the last. this lace is well suited to fill up large spaces. open antwerp lace (no. 30). for this lace a new stitch is required, called the double brussels. instead of a simple button-hole stitch, the needle is twisted once in the loop, so that when drawn up, it has a _longer_ appearance than the ordinary brussels. the stitches are to be worked quite close to each other. 1st row: x eight close double stitches, miss the space of six, x repeat, without drawing the thread very tightly across the missing space. 2nd: x five double over the eight, two double on the loop of thread, x repeat. 3rd: x two double on the five, five over the two, x when five stitches are worked over two, one goes between the two, and two on each side of it. 4th: x eight double over five and miss the space over the two, leaving the loop rather loose, x. repeat from the second row throughout the space. open diamond (no. 31). 1st row: five close brussels, miss the space of two, x eight close, miss the space of two, x to the end of the row. 2nd: two close, x miss two, two on the loop, miss two, work along the line after all the remainder of the eight, do two on the loop, and on six of the next eight (thirteen altogether), repeat to the end. 3rd: x miss two, two on the loop, miss two, do two on the loop, miss two, do one on every one of the line of stitches but the last two, x repeat. 4th: two on the loop, miss two, two on the loop, x miss two, two on the loop, one on every stitch, and two on the next loop (thirteen altogether), miss two, two on a loop, x repeat. the next diamond of holes must be so managed as to fall immediately between two of the first row. by repeating the first line, the place will be indicated. in all these stitches, it is assumed that _squares_ are to be filled in. where the shape varies from that, extra stitches must be added, at the beginning, or taken away, as the case may be, the worker referring to the engraving for the appearance intended to be produced. close diamond (no. 32). the first row is plain button-hole stitch. 2nd row: five stitches, x leave the space of two, fourteen stitches, x repeat. 3rd: two stitches, x miss two, do two on the loop, miss two, work on all the rest of the fourteen, except the last two, x repeat. in the fourth row, the holes fall over those of the first. the fifth row is all in close stitches. in the sixth, begin to make fresh lines of diamonds, coming exactly between the last set. antwerp lace (no. 33). 1st row: x eight close, miss the space of two, x repeat. 2nd: x five close over eight close, and two close on the loop, x. 3rd: x two close over five, and five over two, x. 4th: x five close over two, and two over five, x. 5th: x eight close over every five, x repeat. the above are the principal stitches found in old point lace. * * * * * deep point lace edging. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head mecklenburgh threads, no. 1, 7, 100, and 120. draw the pattern from the engraving, a section of it being given the full size. the paper must then be lined with alpaca. should a short piece only be required, the pattern should at once be made of the full length; if not, several may be drawn. from the closeness of the work it is impossible to work twice over the same paper. the border of each pattern is formed of seven small scallops. it is worked in braiding-stitch, that is, four threads are laid on, parellel with each other, and formed into a braid by darning them backwards, and forwards, putting the needle always under two together. as it is not desirable to have any break in the outline, it will be advisable to take, for each of the four outline threads a needleful sufficiently long to answer for the whole piece of lace. [illustration: deep point lace edging.] when the whole length of the paper is done, the ends may be twisted round a card, and wrapped in paper to keep them clean while that section of the work is in progress. each pattern contains one spray of flowers and small leaves, the stem of which is braided like the edge only that it is generally wider at the end. all the outlines are made in no. 1, and the braiding done in no. 7. the flowers consist of six petals three of which are worked in foundation stitch, that is close button-hole stitch over a thread, and the others in spots formed by making two close button-hole stitches, and then allowing the space of two before working the next. in the succeeding row, the two close stitches come on the bar of thread formed between one spot and the next. the centre of the flower is an open circle, covered with close button-hole stitch, with raleigh dots. the leaves, which are very small, are entirely in foundation stitch. in each section of the large scallop is a wheel formed by working a circular raleigh bar, on a foundation of three threads. the ground is in raleigh bars worked very irregularly. the straight edge of the lace is a line of button-hole stitch on two thread. three rows of sorrento edge, worked one upon another, complete the lace. this edge and the flowers are done in mecklenburgh 120. the remaining parts in no. 100. * * * * * collar in spanish rose point. [illustration: collar in spanish rose point.] materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head valenciennes threads. this is distinguished by close heavy work, and solid spanish stitch edged with loops. the ground of the collar is guipured in the richest style, partly with plain raleigh bars partly with those having semi-circular loops, dotted in the same manner. sometimes two bars have a mecklin wheel at the cross. the section given of the collar is the full size, and has only to be repeated and reversed for the length. * * * * * [illustration: handkerchief border, in antique point lace.] handkerchief border, in antique point lace. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head point lace cottons, and no. 1 valenciennes thread. we give the section of the handkerchief of the full size, that workers may draw their own pattern from it. it may be made of any dimensions required. the perfect pattern occupies the entire side, reckoning from the open flower at the corner. were this entirely repeated for the quarter, it would make the handkerchief rather too large for general taste; about one half the pattern, in addition to the piece given (or the open flower, and the two next to it on the inner side) would be found sufficient for the quarter. one-fourth of the handkerchief being drawn on tracing-paper, all the design can be marked from it, on red, blue, or green; but it is preferable to draw a little more than a quarter only, instead of the whole handkerchief, which is cumbersome to hold. when a quarter is done, it may be removed from the paper, which can be used a second time by a careful worker. no braid whatever is used for this handkerchief, which is similar in the mode of working to some of the most valuable specimens of antique point. the scroll and flowers are close and heavy, the inner ground is guipured, in raleigh bars, and the space between the scroll and the outer edge is filled with fine and close english lace. the stem, and the closest part of the flowers (which may be distinguished in the engraving), are done in foundation stitch, with no. 90, point-lace cotton. the veinings of the petals, where they occur in this stitch, are made by taking the foundation thread at double the distance from the last one, and working over it a row of brussels stitches at the usual distance from each other, instead of close, as in foundation stitch. the calyx of the flower is done in antwerp lace. the very finest point-lace cotton should be used for all this stitch. all the flowers, done as we have just described, have a centre worked in venetian lace; no. 70 cotton must be used. the open flowers, and the button-hole rounds, are done with valenciennes thread, no. 120. the english lace, with no. 100 cotton. the raleigh bars, with valenciennes, no. 100. the edge of the handkerchief border is finished with close button-hole stitch, on which raleigh dots are worked at regular intervals. this edge is worked after all the rest of each quarter is finished. if it be thought troublesome to outline the whole pattern with thread, no. 5 white cotton french braid may be used. the effect is, however, greatly inferior to that of the thread. to make up the handkerchief, cut a square of cambric the exact size to fit the lace, allowing for a very narrow hem. when the hem is made, lay the inner line of the lace over it, tack them together, and work a row of close brussels edge over the two, to connect them. * * * * * apron in broderie en lacet. materials.--three-quarters of a yard of wide black silk of satin, two knots of russia silk braid, of any colour that may be approved, and a dozen skeins of sewing silk to match. the term _broderie en lacet_ is applied to a new and very pretty style of embroidery, in which the outlines are made with silk braid, and filled in with point-lace stitches. the pattern must be enlarged, and one-half drawn on a large sheet of paper: the outlines marked with a needle, and the silk pounced from it, one side of the paper marking one-half, and the reverse side the other. for running on the braid, use the threads of the silk of which it is composed, in preference to the ordinary sewing silk. cut off a piece of the braid three-quarters of a yard long before you begin, and draw the threads out of it for the braiding. when joins occur, the ends are to be drawn through the silk with a long needle, and fastened off on the wrong side. the sections of the flowers are filled with english or venetian lace, and for the leaves, brussels lace, english bars, or point d'alenã§on may be used. the last named is worked between the two lines of braid, to fill in the stems and scallops. [illustration: apron in broderie en lacet.] the bottom of the apron may either have a hem below the embroidery, or be scalloped in button-hole stitch, and the edges cut out. the colours which look best for this style of work are--cerise, crimson, blue, orange, and for mourning, a soft gray. the fancy stitches are to be done exactly like those for point lace, but they need not be so close and fine, the silk filling in without much work. * * * * * pincushion cover in point lace. materials.--brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head valenciennes cottons, and no. 7, french braid. also some satin of any bright colour, satin ribbon 2 inches wide to match, and materials for a pincushion. [illustration: pincushion] this pincushion is intended to be made up in the french style--that is, merely laid over the top of a satin cushion, with three handsome bows of ribbon to match, placed at equal distances. the outlines are in french braid. the scallops are filled alternately with english lace, worked with valenciennes, no. 240, and rows of venetian and brussels alternately, done in no. 200 of the same. the sorrento edge is done with no. 100. one flower has a double mecklin wheel in the centre, and is merely edged with venetian lace (in no. 160), the other has two petals filled with foundation stitch (in no. 240), and two with english lace. the ground is brussels net, worked with brooks' great exhibition prize goat's-head valenciennes, no. 200. [illustration: pincushion.] the venetian and english bars are worked with no. 180. if the centre is left plain and open, a small glass for flowers is inserted. of course, the pincushion has an open centre to correspond. if filled, the cushion has a flat top, and the lace is merely laid on, and fastened with satin bows. the end. team. beeton's book of needlework. consisting of descriptions and instructions, illustrated by six hundred engravings, of tatting patterns. crochet patterns. knitting patterns. netting patterns. embroidery patterns. point lace patterns. guipure d'art. berlin work. monograms. initials and names. pillow lace, and lace stitches. _every pattern and stitch described and engraved with the utmost accuracy, and the exact quantity of material requisite for each pattern stated._ chancellor press _beeton's book of needlework_ was originally published in great britain in 1870 by ward, lock and tyler. this facsimile edition published in great britain in 1986 by chancellor press 59 grosvenor street london w 1 printed in czechoslovakia 50617 samuel butler's preface the art of needlework dates from the earliest record of the world's history, and has, also, from time immemorial been the support, comfort, or employment of women of every rank and age. day by day, it increases its votaries, who enlarge and develop its various branches, so that any addition and assistance in teaching or learning needlework will be welcomed by the daughters of england, "wise of heart," who work diligently with their hands. the recent introduction of point lace has brought a finer, and, apparently, more difficult class of fancy work into general favour. ladies may now, however, confidently commence, with our patterns before them, to reproduce antique laces; for care and patience, with a knowledge of point lace stitches, are alone required to perfect the beautiful work, which, as shown in existing specimens of exquisite old lace, constitute the chief glory of women's refined industry in past centuries. instructions in tatting, in embroidery, in crochet, in knitting and netting, in berlin wool work, in point lace, and guipure d'art are prefixed to the pages devoted to these separate branches of needlework. the whole work is interspersed with coloured and other patterns in point lace, guipure d'art, tatting, embroidery, and designs for monograms and initials for marking handkerchiefs and table-linen. the quantity of materials required for each class of work is also given with every pattern. the idea of combining a series of minute and exact instructions in fancy needlework with useful patterns was conceived some years ago by one whose life was devoted to the inculcation of the practical duties of woman's life, and to assisting her sex in their daily work of household management and refinement. her great wish was that her book of needlework should be as valuable in its way to her countrywomen as her work upon household management was useful in showing the best mode of providing for the diurnal wants of families. other hands have brought to a conclusion her original plans. the best attainable workers have contributed to this volume. only those who knew the extent of the late mrs. beeton's design, will miss, in the pages now before them, "the touch of a vanished hand." s.o.b. _paternoster row,_ 1870. contents. tatting instructions tatting patterns embroidery instructions embroidery patterns crochet instructions crochet patterns knitting instructions netting instructions knitting and netting patterns alphabets for monograms and initials monograms and initials point lace work point lace instructions point lace patterns instructions and patterns in guipure d'art berlin work instructions tatting. tatting instructions [illustration: tatting shuttle.] the needlework called tatting in england, _frivolité_ in french, and _frivolitäten_ in german, is a work which seems, from all accounts, to have been in favour several generations ago. modern ingenuity has discovered some ways of improving on the original plan of tatting, which was, indeed, rather a primitive sort of business as first practised. to mrs. mee, one of our most accomplished _artistes_ in all matters connected with the work-table, belongs, we believe, the introduction of the plan of working from the reel instead of the shuttle. by this alteration the advantage of the shuttle being constantly kept filled with cotton was gained, and the necessity also obviated for frequently joining the thread; and to mdlle. riego, equally distinguished in all details appertaining to the employment of the needle, ladies are indebted for an arrangement by which the same thread used in the making of the pattern is used for fastening the work. the old plan only provided for the working of the different portions which constituted the pattern, and then these portions had to be sewn together with a needle and thread. the ingenious workers on the continent have also given much attention of late to the art of tatting, and our instructions now printed comprise what we consider the best mode of learning and doing this exceedingly interesting and fashionable work. [illustration: tatting pin.] tatting differs entirely from crochet, and is composed of stitches forming _knots_. it is intended as an imitation of point lace, and is especially used for trimming under-linen, on account of its strength. to make the stitches or knots a small instrument is used, called a _shuttle_. this shuttle consists of two oval pieces, flat on one side and convex on the other, and is made of wood or ivory. the two oval pieces are joined together by a strong cross-piece. the illustration shows the construction of the shuttle. these shuttles are made in ivory, pearl, tortoiseshell inlaid with pearl, and silver; they are also manufactured in coloured bone, black, red, and white. the best to work with are the pearl for a white shuttle, and the inlaid tortoiseshell for a black shuttle; the prices vary from sixpence to one shilling and two-and-sixpence each. in selecting a shuttle be careful to see that the ends close, as if dropped it soon becomes unthreaded, which is very inconvenient. the cotton intended for the work is wound round this shuttle, and the thickness of the cotton varies according to the style of work. it is better to use the proper tatting cotton, because it is stronger than the ordinary kinds; this is manufactured by messrs. walter evans and co. for the purpose. their boar's head cotton is also frequently used, and answers very well. _shuttles._ these are made in 3 sizes:--finest, no. 1; no. 2, useful medium size; no. 3, the largest. _the way to hold the hands._ take the shuttle in the right hand, between the thumb and second finger, and allow the forefinger to remain at liberty, and rest the under part of the shuttle _between_ the second and third and _on_ the middle finger. place the thread round the three middle fingers of the left hand, so as to form a loop, keeping the second and third fingers a little apart, and bring the cotton again between the thumb and forefinger, letting the end fall within the palm of the hand, while the end of cotton which holds on to the shuttle passes over the thumb-nail. _to make a stitch._ keep the hands in the position above described; pass the shuttle at the back, through the loop--that is, between the second and third fingers. take the end of the shuttle which comes out from the loop between the forefinger and thumb of the right hand, and strain the cotton very tightly towards the right. when the cotton is drawn through the loop, this cotton must not be impeded by the fourth finger; it should, on the contrary, slide over it, and be drawn tight. it should divide the loop into two parts. after this withdraw the second left-hand finger, which is _above_ the cotton, and pass it again under that cotton, so as to draw up the loop. a _half-stitch_ is thus formed, and must be tightened by being drawn closely to the forefinger and thumb of the left hand. for the remaining half of the stitch keep the hands in the same position, but, instead of letting the cotton fall over the thumb, pass this cotton over the back of the hand; then let the shuttle fall between the second and third fingers of the left hand, in front, and take it out again at the back, strain the cotton very tightly, withdraw the second finger from the loop, letting the cotton which is behind the hand sweep over the fingers. when this is done, guide with the unoccupied fingers of the left hand this second half-stitch up to the other, thus completing _one stitch_. _the way to make a loop in tatting._ when a certain number of stitches are made, very tightly draw in the loop by straining the cotton until the first stitch touches the last, and thus a loop is formed. during this process the stitches should be held tightly between the forefinger and thumb. _the way to make a purl._ a _purl_ is a small loop of cotton often used as an edging in tatting, as, for instance, round the outer edge of the ovals in tatted insertion no. 2. the following is the easiest method of making a purl:--the stitches are not made quite closely together at the place where a purl is to be made; about one-sixth of an inch is left between each. this space is left free until the loop is made by uniting the stitches; then the small piece of cotton in the space bulges out between the stitches, and forms the purl. if several are required a small space is left between every two or three stitches, according to the desired number. care must be taken in that case that the small pieces of cotton left be all of the same length, so that the purl may be perfectly even. the purl can also be made thus: at the same time with the end of thread take the tatting-pin or a very large darning needle or knitting needle in the left hand, so that the point may come out farther than the row of stitches; if then you wish to make a purl, throw the cotton on the pin before making the stitch; then fasten this stitch, and push it at once close to the preceding; the pin with the cotton should come above the stitches. do not take out the pin before all the purl and all the stitches are completed and joined together. _joining the work._ place the tatting-pin in the loop that is to be joined, and with the hook draw the thread of the loop--that is, round the hand through it--pass the shuttle through this loop, and draw it up tightly close to the stitches. a "straight" or double thread is used to join various parts of the work, and forms very beautiful patterns. without the straight thread we should be unable to imitate point lace patterns, or, indeed, to execute any designs but those composed of circles, ovals, &c. to use this straight thread 2 shuttles are required; they should be of different colours. sometimes one end of thread is left attached to the reel instead of using the second shuttle. in commencing a loop the straight thread is held between the second and third fingers of the left hand, about 2 or 3 inches from the work; the other shuttle is held as usual in the right hand, and the stitches and purls worked with it upon the foundation of the straight thread of the second shuttle. * * * * * tatting. 1.--_pine pattern collar in tatting._ [illustration: i.--pine pattern collar in tatting.] materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s boar's head cotton no. 80, or tatting cotton no. 60; tatting-pin no. 3; a small shuttle. this collar is worked with very fine tatting cotton as follows:--1st circle: 2 double, 1 purl 7 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton. 2nd circle: 3 double, join it to the last purl of the 1st circle, 1 double, 1 purl 8 times, 2 double, draw the cotton up. 3rd circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of the 2nd circle, 1 double, join it to the 7th purl of the 2nd circle, 1 double, 1 purl 8 times, 2 double, draw the cotton up. 4th circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of 3rd circle, 3 double, 1 purl, 1 double 7 times, 1 double, draw the cotton up. 5th circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of 4th circle, 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double 3 times, draw up the cotton. 6th circle: 2 double, join it to the last purl of the 5th circle, 1 double, join it to the 5th purl of the preceding circle, 1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 1 double, join it to the first purl of the 1st circle, 2 double, draw up the cotton. this completes the star pattern in centre of pine. 1st circle of pine: 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double 8 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton. 2nd circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of 1st circle, 1 double, join it to the 7th purl of 1st circle, 1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 3 double, draw up the cotton and join it to the 3rd purl of centre star. 3rd circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of 2nd circle, 1 double, 1 purl 8 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton and join it on to the centre purl of 2nd circle in star. 4th circle: 2 double, join to the last purl of 3rd circle, 1 double, 1 purl 5 times, 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double, draw up the cotton and join it to the 5th purl of 2nd centre circle in star. 5th circle: 2 double, join the cotton to the last purl of 4th circle, 1 double, 1 purl 7 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton, repeat the 5th circle twice more, then join the cotton to the centre purl of 4th circle in star. 8th circle: 2 double, join to the last purl of 7th circle, 1 purl,1 double 5 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton and join it to the centre purl of 5th circle in star. 9th circle: 2 double, join to the last purl of 8th circle, 1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton. repeat the 9th circle 3 times. 13th circle: 3 double, join the cotton to the last purl of the 12th circle, 1 double, 1 purl 7 times, 4 double, draw up the cotton, turn the work downwards, and work the 14th circle: 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double, join it to the 1st purl of the 1st circle of pine, 1 double, join it to the 2nd purl of first pine circle,1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton. 15th circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of the 13th circle, 1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 3 double, draw up the cotton. 16th circle: 3 double, join to the last purl of the 15th circle, 1 double, 1 purl 4 times, 3 double, 1 purl, 1 double, draw up the cotton. 17th circle: 1 double, join to the last purl of the 16th circle, 1 double, 1 purl 6 times, 2 double, draw up the cotton. 18th circle: 1 double, join to the last purl of the 17th circle, 1 double, 1 purl 8 times, 1 double, draw up the cotton, and repeat from commencement until the collar is the required size. the upper part of the pines is filled in with lace stitches, as clearly shown in our illustration. * * * * * 2.--_tatted insertion._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 30, or boar's head crochet cotton no. 12; tatting pin no. 2; large shuttle. [illustration: 2.--tatted insertion.] this insertion should be worked with coarse cotton. 5 double *, 1 purl, 2 double, repeat from * 4 times, 1 purl, 5 double, draw up the cotton, turn the pattern downward, and work another circle the same as that above described, leaving one-sixth of an inch of cotton between each circle. * * * * * 3.--_lace edging in tatting._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s crochet cotton no. 10, or tatting cotton no. 20; tatting-pin no. 3; any sized shuttle. for a finer edging, no. 18. 1st oval: fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a double thread is used, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1 purl, 10 double; draw up. double thread: putting the thread attached to the reel round the left hand, work 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double. [illustration: 3.--lace edging in tatting.] 2nd oval: 10 double, join to purl in 1st oval, 10 double; draw up. the pattern is now complete. repeat from beginning, taking care that the next oval be close to the last. crochet a heading with the same cotton, working 7 chain, 1 double into the purl in double thread. repeat. * * * * * 4.--_lace edging in tatting._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s crochet cotton no. 10, or tatting cotton no. 20; tatting-pin no. 3; any sized shuttle. for a finer edging, no. 18. [illustration: 4.--lace edging in tatting.] 1st oval: fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a double thread is required, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1 purl, 10 double stitches, draw up. 2nd oval: close to last oval, work 10 double, 1 purl, 10 double; draw up. double thread: putting the thread attached to the reel round the left hand, work 12 double, 1 purl, 4 double; then join the shuttle-thread to the purl in 2nd oval, by drawing it through with a pin. then do another similar chain of stitches with the double thread, viz., 4 double, 1 purl, 12 double. 3rd oval: 10 double, join to the purl in 2nd oval--the same as that to which the shuttle-thread has been fastened--10 double; draw up. 4th oval: close to last oval, work 10 double, join to purl of 1st oval, 10 double, draw up. the pattern is now complete. repeat from beginning, taking care that the next oval be close to the last. crochet a heading with the same cotton, working 4 chain, 1 double into the purl of double thread, 6 chain, 1 double into the next purl. repeat. * * * * * 5.--_border in tatting with crochet edging._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 60, or crochet cotton no. 80; tatting-pin no. 2; a bone shuttle. [illustration: 5.--border in tatting with crochet edging.] work * 4 double stitches (that is, 4 times following 1 purled stitch and 1 plain), 1 purl, four times following 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 4 double stitches, draw up the cotton so as to form an oval, and for the smaller oval, work 9 double stitches, but leave, before beginning the first double stitch, the space of one-sixth of an inch between this oval and the preceding; repeat from *, leaving the same space between each oval; join together the larger ovals by the purl. for the crochet edging, work the 1st row in the following manner:-1 double (followed by 6 chain) in each of the smaller ovals. the 2nd and 3rd rows are composed of short treble stitches, placed one above the other, and divided by one chain. while working the short treble stitches of the 3rd row form the small purl thus:-* 1 short treble in the first short treble of preceding row, let the loop slip off from the crochet needle, insert the needle in the under stitch, from which comes the loop now made into a purl, work 1 double in the first short treble of preceding row, 1 chain, under which miss 1 stitch, and repeat from *. * * * * * 6.--_border in tatting with crochet._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s boar's head cotton no. 20, or tatting cotton no. 40; tatting-pin no. 2. for a coarser size use boar's head cotton no. 4, or tatting cotton no. 20. [illustration: 6.--border in tatting with crochet.] 4 double stitches, 1 purl, 4 times following, 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 4 double stitches, draw up the oval, but not quite tight, leave a space about one-sixth of an inch, leave a similar space between this oval and the next, work 3 double stitches, fasten them to the nearest purl of preceding oval, then work twice following 4 double stitches, 1 purl, then 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 3 double stitches, and draw up the oval * * * * * 7.--_tatted insertion._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s boar's head crochet cotton no. 18; tatting-pin no. 3. this strip of insertion is worked with crochet cotton, and consists of a row of circles, two of which are always joined together, and edged on either side with chain stitches. work first * 2 double, 4 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double, 1 long purl about one-fifth of an inch long, 10 double divided by 1 purl, 1 long purl, 4 times alternately 1 double, 1 purl, then 2 double; join the stitches into a circle; work close to this a second circle, and knot the end of the cotton together with the cotton with which the first circle has been begun; repeat from *, but henceforward in the first of the two circles fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the preceding circle, instead of working the middle purl. when the strip of insertion is sufficiently long, edge it on either side with a row of chain stitches, by working 1 double in 1 long purl and 5 chain between. [illustration: 7.--tatted insertion.] * * * * * 8.--_rosette in tatting._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 40; tatting-pin no. 3. this rosette is worked with two cottons, viz., 1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain, 5 double, 1 purl, 10 double, 1 purl, 1 plain; turn the work downwards, 10 double, fastened on the last purl turned downwards; this forms one loop turned upwards; turn work downwards, 10 double, 1 purl, 5 double, fastened on first purl turned downwards; turn figure thus formed downwards; 4 double, 1 single, repeat 4 times more from *, joining the figures by means of the purl stitch; the ends of the cotton are knotted together. [illustration: 8.--rosette in tatting.] * * * * * 9.--_star in tatting._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 50; tatting-pin no. 3. [illustration: 9.--star in tatting.] fill the shuttle, and commencing a loop, work 1 double, then 1 purl and 1 double 12 times, draw into a round; join the cotton to the 1st purl loop. 1st oval.--commence a loop close to the joining, work 7 double, join to 1st purl of round, work 7 double and draw close; reverse the work. join the thread from reel, and holding it out for a straight thread, commence the scallop:-5 double, 1 purl, 5 double, reverse the work. the 2nd oval same as first. repeat oval and scallop alternately, until the star is completed. * * * * * 10.--_insertion worked in tatting_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 50; tatting-pin no. 3. [illustration: 10.--insertion worked in tatting.] this strip of insertion is worked with two cottons. work with the cotton in the left hand over that in the right hand. both ends of cotton are fastened together at the beginning by a knot. first work one half of the insertion the long way in the following manner:--1 plain, 1 purl, 1 plain (the purl must be very short); turn the purl downwards, 6 double, 1 purl, * 6 double, 1 purl, 1 plain, which must all be turned upwards; then turn the work so that the upper edge is turned downwards; work 6 double, fastened on to the last purl turned downwards (the fastening of the stitches is made with the thread in the right hand); a loop turned upwards is thus formed; turn the work downwards, draw the cotton in right hand underneath that in left hand, and work 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, all turned upwards; fasten these stitches on 1st purl turned downwards. in this pattern 1st of border pattern is thus completed; turn it downwards, 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double, 1 purl, 1 plain, turn work downwards, 6 double, fastened on last purl of last pattern, turned up. repeat from *. when the insertion is of sufficient length, work the other half in same manner, and fasten it on the 1st half by means of purl stitches between the 8 double stitches twice repeated. * * * * * 11.--_tatted insertion for trimming lingeries_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 40, or crochet cotton no. 20; tatting-pin no. 3. [illustration: 11.--tatted insertion.] this insertion consists of 2 rows of three-branched patterns which lie opposite each other, and are joined by slanting rows of knots. a coloured silk ribbon is drawn through these rows which join the patterns. each of the 3 branches of 1 pattern consists of 9 double, 1 purl, 9 double, and must be worked close to another. when the 3rd branch is completed, fasten another piece of cotton on to the middle branch. work 12 double over this 2nd piece of cotton, and then work without the 2nd piece of cotton a 2nd three-branched pattern like the 1st.* fasten the 2nd piece of cotton on to the middle branch of the just-finished pattern, work 12 double over it, then again a three-branched pattern; in this pattern as well as in the following ones, instead of working the purl of the 1st branch, fasten it on to the purl of the 3rd branch of the preceding three-branched pattern of the _same_ row, as can be seen in illustration. repeat till the strip of insertion is sufficiently long. * * * * * 12.--_circle in tatting_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 80; tatting-pin no. 3. [illustration: 12.--circle in tatting.] work first 8 ovals, each composed of 5 double stitches, 3 purl divided one from the other by 4 double stitches, 5 double stitches; these ovals are joined together by the purl at the sides, then the circle is tightened as much as possible, and the cotton with which you are working is twisted round the ends of cotton that have been cut: the cotton is then fastened off nearly underneath. begin a fresh small oval, composed of 12 double stitches, which should be fastened to the preceding oval after 3 double stitches (to the purl in the centre of the first oval), then fasten it again to the purl which joins together the first and the second oval; leave a space of about one-fourth of an inch, and work an oval composed of 4 double stitches, 5 purl, followed each by 2 double stitches, 4 double stitches. a very little farther off make a very small oval, composed of 8 double stitches, which after the four first double stitches is joined to the centre purl of the second oval, leaving the same space between as before, make another oval of 4 double stitches, 5 purl, each followed by 2 double stitches, 4 double stitches; but the first purl is _missed_, because at this place the oval is joined to the fifth purl of the corresponding oval; once more leave a space of one-fourth of an inch, and repeat. at the end of the round the two ends of cotton are tied tightly together. * * * * * 13.--_tatted border with beads_. materials: black purse silk, or, for white trimming, messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 2; tatting-pin no. 3; 3 hanks of beads no. 4 to the yard of border. [illustration: 13.--tatted border with beads.] this border, edged with beads no. 4, is worked in middling-size purse silk over fine silk cord of the same colour as the silk. before beginning to work this pattern, thread the beads which take the place of purl stitches, and which are slipped in between two double stitches. when the row of stitches is of the length required, form the trefoil leaves, and sew a few beads over the places where they are joined. these trefoil leaves are made separately, and then sewn together. * * * * * 14.--_insertion in tatting_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s crochet cotton no. 10; tatting-pin no. 3; any sized shuttle; for a finer insertion no. 18 or 20. [illustration: 14.--insertion in tatting.] 1st oval: fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a double thread is used, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1 purl, 10 double, draw up. double thread: putting the thread attached to the reel round the left hand, work 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double. 2nd oval: 10 double, join to purl of 1st oval, 10 double, draw up. repeat till the length required is worked, then cut off. for the fresh length, which will make the other half of the insertion, the shuttle must still be attached to the reel. commence by working-1st oval: 10 double, join to the purl which connects the first and second ovals of the piece already worked, 10 double, draw up. double thread: 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double. 2nd oval: 10 double, join to the same purl as last--namely, the one connecting the first and second ovals of the piece already worked, 10 double, draw up. repeat, joining the two next ovals to the purl which connects the two next in the piece already worked, and so on. crochet a heading each side, working 7 chain, 1 double into the purl of double thread, repeat. with a heading on one side only, this makes a pretty wide edging. * * * * * 15.--_border in tatting and crochet_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 40, and crochet cotton no. 80; tatting-pin no. 3. [illustration: 15.--border in tatting and crochet.] this lace is rendered stronger by the crochet rows of scallops and treble stitch round the edge. begin with the tatting as follows: make a circle of 8 double, 7 purl divided by 2 double, 8 double. this circle is repeated at a distance of about three-fourths of an inch, only instead of the 1st purl each following circle must be fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle. then take some crochet cotton, which must be finer than the cotton used for tatting, and work a row of double stitches over the thread which joins the circles. the number of stitches depends on the length and size of the cotton; work double stitches round the circles at the place where both ends meet. the outer row consists of treble stitches, which are worked with 1 chain stitch between, missing 1 stitch under each chain. the scallops consist of the two following rows:--1 double, with which the last and first purl of 2 circles are joined, 4 chain; in each of the other purl, 1 double, 4 chain, between 2 double stitches. 2nd row: 1 double in each chain stitch scallop, 1 double, 3 long double, 1 double. * * * * * 16 _and_ 17.--_lady's veil in net and tatting_. [illustration: 16.--lady's veil in net and tatting.] this veil is slightly gathered in front and fastened to the brim of the bonnet. it is tied at the back under the chignon. the veil is of black silk net. the flowrets are tatted with black purse silk, and worked in appliqué over the tulle. the veil is edged round with a tatted lace made with the same silk. for the patterns and lace and instructions, see nos. 18 and 19. no. 16 shows the way in which the veil is worn upon the bonnet, and no. 17 shows its shape when stretched out. * * * * * 18 _and_ 19.--_patterns in tatting_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 120 for a white veil; fine black silk for a black veil; tatting-pin no. 2. [illustration: 17.--shape of veil.] [illustration: 18.--tatting pattern for veil (16).] [illustration: 19--tatting pattern for veil (16).] the patterns nos. 18 and 19 are meant for ornamenting the veil no. 16. they are sewn upon the net at regular distances. for working the pattern no. 18, make with black silk or white cotton 6 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, at the end 1 purl, then join the stitch into a circle, *fasten the silk on to the next purl. then 1 spot or josephine knot, consisting of 6 plain stitches, carry the shuttle downwards through the loop, and draw the stitches close together; repeat 3 times more from *. fasten the silk on to the next purl, and work a circle as follows:--8 times 2 double, divided by 1 purl; fasten the silk on to the next purl, work again 1 spot, after which the silk is fastened, then work 2 more similar circles divided by 1 spot; they are fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle instead of the 1st purl. fasten off the silk after the last circle. for no. 19 work 25 double, divided by 1 purl, join the stitches into a circle, knot the beginning and the end of the cotton together, cut off the ends at a short distance. then work a smaller circle, consisting of 8 double, divided by 1 purl; at the place of the 1st purl fasten the cotton at a short distance on to the 2nd purl of the large circle. the ends of this circle are knotted together and cut off in the same way. then work a circle consisting of 11 double, fasten the silk on to the 20th purl of the large circle, work 5 double, and join the stitches into a circle. then take the ends of the 3 circles, and work close fine stitches with silk round them, so as to form the stem. the completed pattern is sewn upon the net. * * * * * 20 _and_ 21.--_diamond pattern and circle in tatting, for trimming linen collars, cuffs, &c_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no 30; tatting-pin no. 3. 20.--diamond pattern.--work, not far one from the other, four leaves, each composed of 5 double stitches, 7 rather long purl divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, 5 double stitches. instead of making the 1st purl in each of the 3 next leaves, fasten the cotton to the last leaf of preceding leaf. fasten off and cut the cotton; begin a fresh circle by 2 double stitches, 7 purl divided by 2 double stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton to the centre purl of one of the four leaves, and work a very small circle thus:--2 double stitches, fasten the cotton to the last purl of the first circle, 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 2 double stitches; fasten the cotton * to the 6th purl of the leaf; work a larger circle thus:--2 double stitches fastened to the purl of the small circle, 2 double stitches, 4 purl divided by 2 double stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton not far off to the second purl of the second leaf; work another small circle similar to that above-described; fasten the cotton to the third purl of the second leaf, then to the fourth purl of the same leaf, and repeat from * three times more, always fastening the first purl of the first circle you are working (each time you repeat the pattern) to the purl of the last small circle last worked; fasten off and cut the cotton. [illustration: 20.--diamond in tatting.] [illustration: 21.--circle in tatting.] * * * * * 21.--circle.--begin it in the centre by working a circle of 8 purl, rather long, divided one from the other by 2 double stitches. after you have fastened off and cut the cotton, work * one very small circle composed of 3 double stitches, 1 long purl, 3 double stitches; fasten the cotton not far off to the first purl of the circle, and repeat from * 7 times more, at regular distances. fasten off and cut the cotton, and begin * a fresh circle of 2 double stitches, 7 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton to the purl of the very small circle, and work, not far off, a circle of 2 double stitches, 2 purl divided by 2 double stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton to the purl of the next small circle, and repeat from * 7 times more. instead of making the first purl of the next large circle, fasten the cotton to the last purl of the small circle. * * * * * 22.--_border in tatting and crochet_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 20; tatting-pin no. 3. [illustration: 22.--border in tatting and crochet.] begin this border with one of the smaller circles consisting of * 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double; work a large circle at a short distance, 5 double, 4 times 1 purl divided by 2 double, 5 double; close to this circle another as follows:--5 double, fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 5 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 5 double; a third circle as follows:--5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 3 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 5 double; the cotton is fastened a short distance further on to the second purl of the first worked small circle, which must be turned downwards; then turn the work so that the three circles which are joined together are turned downwards. work another small circle as follows at the distance of two-fifths of an inch:--4 double, 1 purl, 4 double, leave again an interval of about two-fifths of an inch, and repeat from * till the lace is long enough; but in working the following figures, consisting of three circles, the 1st circle must be fastened on to the last purl of the 3rd circle at the place of the 1st purl. complete the tatting with the 2 following rows of crochet:--* 1 slip stitch in the purl of one of the small circles turned upwards, 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the next purl, 4 chain; repeat from *. in the following row work 1 double in every stitch. * * * * * 23.--_insertion in tatting and lace stitch_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 80; tatting-pin no. 3. [illustration: 23.--insertion in tatting and lace stitch.] this insertion forms a very pretty standing-up collar when worked with fine cotton and a coloured ribbon drawn through. it consists of 2 rows of 3 branched figures turned opposite one another, which are worked separately and then joined into a row. work 9 times as follows:--2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, * draw into a circle and * work at a short distance a 2nd circle as follows:--2 double fastened on to the last purl of the 1st circle, 8 times 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, repeat once more from *, knot together the two ends of the cotton, and fasten them on the wrong side. one figure is thus completed; each following figure is fastened on to the preceding one on the middle purl of a circle (see illustration). when a sufficient number of such figures have been worked, work a 2nd row of them in the same manner, and fasten from illustration each middle circle of one figure on to the corresponding circle of the 1st row. the circles filled with lace stitch are worked when the 2 rows are completed from illustration in the empty places between 4 patterns; work first 3 double, fasten them on to a purl on the side of a leaf turned inside, * 3 double, fasten them on to a purl of the next leaf, repeat 5 times more from *, work 3 double, join the stitches into a circle, but not too close, so that the purls keep their natural position; cut off the cotton, and fasten the two ends on the wrong side. the lace stitch inside of these circles is worked with fine crochet cotton; the pattern may be changed for a single or double wheel. * * * * * 24.--_insertion in tatting._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 30; tatting-pin no. 3. begin by working separately a sufficient number of small rosettes, each composed of six ovals of double stitches and purl. these ovals are worked first in a straight row, then they are joined into a circle and united in the centre by button-hole stitches. the rosettes are joined together with fine cotton. the crochet border is then worked on either side in chain stitches and treble crochet, as seen in illustration. [illustration: 24.--insertion in tatting.] * * * * * 25.--_centre of a tatted couvrette_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 20, or crochet cotton no. 1; tatting-pin no. 2. this illustration shows the centre of a tatted couvrette in full size, and measuring 12 inches across. separate rosettes like the pattern may be joined together with smaller ones, and form a very pretty couvrette. the pattern is worked in rounds. begin the rosette with a circle, consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 4 double. take up another shuttle, and work over the cotton on it, fasten the end on the last double of the circle and work over it, beginning close to the circle, 6 plain, 1 circle like the 1st worked with the 1st shuttle, and which is fastened on the last purl of the 1st circle at the place of the 1st purl; 6 plain, and continue to work so alternately till you have 7 circles divided by 6 plain stitches. draw up very tightly the cotton over which you work, so that the circles form a rosette, which is closed by sewing together the two corresponding purl of the first and last circle. both the ends of the cotton over which you have worked are knotted together. for the 2nd round, fasten the cotton on one shuttle on the middle purl of a circle, work a circle like those of the 1st round, take up the 2nd shuttle, and work on exactly as in the 1st round, only work 8 plain between the circles over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle. the 2nd round consists of 15 circles; the cotton with which you work must be fastened at the required places on the middle purl of a circle of the preceding round. the 3rd and following rounds are worked in the same manner; the number of circles must be such as to keep the couvrette quite flat. in the pattern the 3rd round has 26 circles. fasten the cotton well after each round. [illustration: 25.--centre of a tatted couvrette.] * * * * * 26.--_tatted lace_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 30; tatting-pin no. 2. [illustration: 26.--tatted lace.] this very simple lace consists of scallops which look as if they were slightly gathered. it must be worked with tatting cotton. each scallop consists of 5 plain, 1 purl, 5 plain, then alternately 5 purled stitches, draw up these stitches till the cotton between the 1st and last stitch is two-fifths of an inch long, and work a 2nd similar scallop at a short distance from the 1st. but in the following scallops fasten each to the last purl of the preceding scallop instead of working the 1st purl. * * * * * 27.--_tatted lace_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 50 or 80; tatting-pin no. 3. [illustration: 27.--tatted lace.] this pretty lace is worked with fine tatting cotton. work with 2 threads; the knots are worked over the cotton, which is held in the right hand. work first the outer scallops of the lace fasten both ends of cotton together and make 10 double, divided by 1 purl, turn the work so as to turn the wrong side upwards, fasten the cotton over which you work on to the last purl, go back over the same row, miss 1 purl next to the cotton with which you work, 9 double divided by 1 purl, fastening the cotton over which you work on the next purl of the 1st row after every double stitch. this forms 1 scallop. * turn the work downwards (that is, the purl stitch must be turned downwards), make 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 1 purled stitch: this is the straight row between 2 outer scallops of the lace. then work a scallop like the preceding one, fastening it from illustration after the first row on the middle one of the 9 outer purl of the preceding scallop, with the cotton over which you work; repeat from * till the lace is long enough, and fasten the cotton. knot both ends together again, fasten the cotton over which you work on the first purl of the first scallop, make 9 double, 1 short purl, 1 double, turn so that the upper edge of the row is turned downwards, and the scallops upwards, 5 double, fasten the 2 middle purl of the 4 of the next straight row together by drawing the cotton, with which you are working through the 2nd purl, so as to form a loop, draw the cotton over which you work through this loop and draw up the latter; work 5 double, fasten the cotton over which you work on to the short purl worked after 9 double, turn the work so that the outer scallops of the lace are turned downwards, 10 double, fasten the cotton over which you work on the first purl of the next scallop, repeat from *, and fasten the cotton. after having fastened both ends together again, turn the work the right side upwards and the outer scallops upwards also, fasten the cotton over which you work on to the short purl which is under the first loop; * work 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, fasten the cotton over which you work on the purl under the next loop, and repeat from * till the lace is completed. * * * * * 28.--_collar in tatting and darned netting_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 40; tatting-pin no. 3; messrs. walter evans and co.'s french embroidery cotton no. 60; square netting. [illustration: 28.--collar in tatting and darned netting] the pattern is worked with very fine cotton; the netted grounding over a mesh measuring two-fifths of an inch round. the collar is ornamented round the outer edge with a tatted lace. work a straight strip of netting for the grounding; begin with 2 stitches, work 18 rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1 at the end of each row, so that the last row has 19 holes; work 1 row without increasing; then continue to work with the same number of stitches, increasing 1 at the end of one row and decreasing 1 at the end of the other. when the strip is sufficiently long, work 1 row again without increasing or decreasing, and form the side by making 18 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of each, cast off the 2 last stitches on 1 stitch without forming a new stitch on the needle. trace the outline of the collar on the grounding with thick cotton, and begin to darn it from illustration. when the darning is completed work the tatted lace with the same cotton, as follows:--6 double, 1 short purl, alternately, 3 times 3 double, 1 purl, 6 double, draw up the stitch so as to form a scallop leaving one-fifth of an inch between the first and last stitch; work a second scallop at a short distance from the first, and so on; every scallop is fastened on to the preceding one after the first 3 double stitches. work a row of double overcast stitch between the darned netting and the tatted lace; work this row over the cotton tracing, marking the outline of the collar on the grounding and over the cotton between the tatted scallops. work also a row of double overcast round the neck part, gathering in the collar a little if necessary. cut away the netting on the wrong side close to the row of overcast stitches. * * * * * 29.--_mignardise and tatting_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 40; fine mignardise braid. [illustration: 29.--mignardise and tatting.] patterns formed of mignardise and tatting are of quite new style, and look very pretty. the insertion is easy to work by the following process:--make first a circle, as follows: 1 plain stitch, 2 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 plain; fasten the cotton on to one side of the mignardise, at the distance of about five-eighths of an inch, by taking 2 loops of it together; work a second circle at a short distance from the first, and so on. when the strip of insertion is sufficiently long, work in the same manner on the other side of the mignardise. this kind of work is destined to become very popular, and nothing can be more light and graceful than the union of mignardise and tatting. * * * * * 30.--_linen bag for cotton_. materials: fine linen, 6 inches square; messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 40. [illustration: 30.--linen bag for cotton.] the bag seen in illustration no. 30 is meant to keep the cotton for working a couvrette; it consists of a round piece, measuring 6 inches across, which is hemmed all round, and trimmed with a tatted lace. it is drawn together at top. * * * * * 31.--_tatting insertion_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s cotton no. 30. the insertion shown in illustration no. 31 is composed in two similar halves. begin the first in the following way:--10 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 10 double, join the stitches into a circle, and work a second similar circle at a distance of one-third of an inch; instead of the 1st purl, draw the cotton through the 2nd purl of the first-worked circle; leave an interval of one-eighth of an inch, and repeat the two rounds till the insertion is sufficiently long. then tat round the pieces of cotton which join the two rounds, work round the longest 10 double, and round the shortest 4 double, inserting the shuttle alternately once upwards and once downwards, but for the rest proceeding as in the common button-hole stitch. when the first half is completed, work the second in the same way, and fasten it on to the first with the purl. [illustration: 31.--tatting insertion.] * * * * * 32.--_tatting insertion_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s cotton no. 30. [illustration: 32.--tatting insertion.] the pretty effect of the insertion shown in illustration no. 32 is obtained by means of longer and shorter purl. work as follows:--join 9 double into a circle, 1 long purl, 3 double, 1 long purl, 4 double *. after an interval of five-eighths of an inch, begin the large figure of the pattern: 2 double, 1 small purl, 2 double, draw the cotton through the last purl of the small circle, 2 double, drawn through the 1st purl of the same circle, 2 double, 1 small purl, 2 double, 1 long purl, 2 double, 1 small purl, 2 double, repeat 6 times more from *, and draw up. after an interval of five-eighths of an inch comes another small circle: 4 double, draw the cotton through the last purl of the large figure, 3 double, draw the cotton through the next long purl of the same figure, 2 double, 1 long purl, 3 double, 1 long purl, 4 double. repeat the pattern for the length of insertion required. the threads which join the small circles are worked over with 7 double in the manner described above, only the cotton at the principal figure must be left loose the width of a straw, so as to imitate a long purl. complete the insertion from illustration by tatting round the small circles of 16 double on the other side (but in the contrary direction), form no purl, but draw the cotton through the long purl of the large figure; the threads which join the 2 circles are likewise drawn through the middle long purl of the large figure; this thread is then tatted over with 7 double, like the opposite outer edge. * * * * * 33.--_tatted square or diamond_. materials: if for couvrettes, messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 20, or crochet cotton no. 4; tatting-pin no. 3. for d'oyleys, tatting cotton no. 50; tatting-pin no. 2. for headdresses, tatting cotton no. 80; tatting-pin no. 2. the square is composed first of nine 4-branched patterns, worked in 3 rows of 3 patterns each, and joined on one to the other with purl. each pattern consists of 4 branches close to each other, and each branch consists of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; when the 4 branches of one pattern are completed, cut off the cotton, and fasten both ends together so as to form a small circle in the centre. then work a second pattern, which is fastened on to the first and second branches of the first pattern, instead of working the purl stitch; work a third pattern, which is fastened in the same manner on to the second pattern. then work 2 more rows exactly the same as can be seen in illustration. [illustration: 33.--tatted square.] *for the border of the square, fasten the cotton on the first purl of the first pattern, work 4 double, 13 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double, draw up the stitches close, fasten the cotton again on to the same purl of the first pattern *, and work the following scallop at a short distance:--4 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 10 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double, draw up the stitch, leaving an interval of two-fifths of an inch between the first and the last; fasten the cotton on to the next purl which joins two patterns, repeat twice more from *, and continue to repeat from *. * * * * * 34.--_tatted rosette_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 40, or crochet cotton no. 60. [illustration: 34.--tatted rosette.] this rosette is very pretty for trimming _lingeries_; it is worked with very fine crochet or tatting cotton. begin in the centre and work one circle: 16 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 1 purled stitch. fasten the cotton on to the first purl and work the 2nd round: 1 small circle, consisting of 6 double divided by 1 purl. fasten the cotton on to the next purl of the middle circle, and repeat in rounds. 3rd round: fasten the cotton on the middle purl of the first circle of the preceding round, * work at a short distance 8 double divided by 1 purl, join the stitches into a circle, fasten the cotton at the same distance on to the middle purl of the next circle of the preceding round, and repeat in rounds from *, after which the cotton is fastened off. * * * * * 35.--_rosette in tatting_. [illustration: 35.--rosette in tatting.] materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 40; tatting-pin no. 3. begin this rosette with the circle in the centre, and work 8 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double, join the stitches into a circle and fasten the cotton. take a second shuttle and work over the cotton on this shuttle; knot the two ends of cotton together * and work 5 plain, fasten the cotton over which you work on a purl of the circle which is completed, and which must be turned downwards; 5 plain, 1 purl; repeat 7 times more from *, and fasten the cotton. work now with one of the shuttles the small circles on the outside; * fasten the cotton on to a purl of the second round, and work a circle as follows:--6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, fasten the cotton on to the same purl of the second round, work a similar circle at a short distance, and a third at the same distance. repeat 7 times more from *, and fasten off the cotton neatly. * * * * * 36.--_diamond in tatting_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 40; tatting-pin no. 2. [illustration: 36.--diamond in tatting.] this diamond is suitable for trimming collars, cuffs, &c., when worked with fine cotton. work first the four corner patterns separately, as follows:--7 double, 3 purl divided by 3 double, 6 double, join the stitches into a circle, work close to this circle a second one consisting of 6 double fastened on the last purl of the 1st circle, 4 double, 2 purl divided by 4 double, 6 double; then a 3rd circle consisting of 6 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 3 double, 2 purl divided by 3 double, 7 double. take a second shuttle, fasten the cotton on the end of the cotton of the 1st circle, throw the cotton of the 1st shuttle over the fingers of the left hand, and work with this cotton over the cotton on the other shuttle in the right hand. work 5 double, and then one circle as follows with the cotton in the left hand only:--8 double fastened on the last purl of the 3rd of the 3 circles worked close to each other, 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, then again over the cotton on the other shuttle, 5 double, 4 purl divided by 5 double, 5 double, then with one shuttle only one circle as follows:--6 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on 1st purl of the circle worked at the beginning, 8 double; then again with two shuttles 5 double. fasten the cotton on the piece of cotton before the 5 double worked with two shuttles, so that the stitches worked over two shuttles form a circle, and cut off the cotton. when three of these patterns have been worked, work the centre pattern of the square. it consists of 4 leaves touching each other at the lower points; each leaf is formed of 3 double, 5 purl divided by 3 double, 3 double; each following leaf is fastened on to the preceding one at the place of the 1st purl. then work first 1 round of the oval circles of the square, with which the corner patterns are joined. fasten the cotton on one purl of one corner pattern, make 7 double, 1 purl, 8 double; fasten on the corresponding purl of another corner pattern, work 8 double, 1 purl, 7 double, join the stitches into a circle, fasten the cotton on to the same purl to which the cotton has already been fastened, carry the latter on to the next purl of the same corner pattern, fasten it, then work three more circles like the first, which are fastened on to each preceding circle, at the place of the first purl; fasten the cotton on the two cross purl of the centre pattern, and work four similar circles on the other side of the same. the 8 circles which go across the square in the opposite direction are worked in the same manner. when the square is completed, draw two threads on each side of each corner pattern on to the other side of the square along the cotton which joins the circles together. * * * * * 37.--_tatting for cap crown_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 100; tatting-pin no. 1. [illustration: 37.--tatting for cap crown.] this pattern is very pretty for the crown of a cap like the one described on page 36, and also for covers, toilet cushions, &c. the size of the cotton depends upon the use you wish to make of the pattern. the pattern is worked with fine tatting cotton. it consists of eight-branched rosettes joined together with small circles. each rosette is worked as follows: work 8 loops or branches close to each other, consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; fasten both ends of the cotton together, and cut them off. each of the small circles which joins the rosettes together consists of 2 double, 8 purl divided by 2 double. it is easy to see from the illustration how the patterns are joined together by means of the purl stitches. * * * * * 38 _and_ 39.--_cap in tatting_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 100 tatting-pin no. 1. [illustration: 38.--cap in tatting.] this very pretty cap consists of an oval crown in tatting, edged all round with a tatted lace, the lappets are made in tatting also. the cap is trimmed with large and small rosettes of narrow blue velvet. a narrow velvet ribbon is drawn through the straight open-work edge of the lace, as can be seen in illustration. [illustration: 39--border for cap no. 38.] * * * * * no. 39.--border for cap.--the upper part of the border consists of 4 rows of circles worked at a distance of three-fifths of an inch from each other. the circles of the 1st row consist of 3 double, 3 purl divided by 3 double, 3 double. in the following 3 rows each circle is fastened on to the cotton, which joins 2 circles in the 1st row, instead of working the middle purl, the cotton between 2 circles in the last row must only be two-fifths of an inch long. then work a certain number of six-branched rosettes, each branch consisting of 9 double, 1 purl, 9 double. each rosette is fastened on to every other circle of the 1st row, as can be seen in illustration. the border is completed as follows:--* 1 double, 6 purl divided by 1 double, 1 purled stitch fastened on to the middle purl of a circle of the 1st row, 1 plain, 6 purl divided by 1 double, join the stitch into a circle, turn the lace so that the rosettes are turned upwards, fasten the cotton on to the purl of the next branch of the next rosette, work 1 double, 7 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double; fasten the cotton on to the purl of the next branch, * work 1 double, 8 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double; fasten the cotton on to the next branch, repeat once more from *, work 1 double, 7 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double, and repeat from * to the end of the lace. * * * * * 40.--_lace in tatting and crochet_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 50; tatting-pin no. 2; crochet cotton no. 60. [illustration: 40.--lace in tatting and crochet.] the beauty of this lace depends entirely upon the regularity of the tatting. the purl stitches must be very regularly made, the circles must be drawn up tight. make * 1 circle, consisting of 4 double, 8 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double; close to this circle a second one; 5 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 8 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl 5 double, close to the 2nd circle a third one similar to the first, but instead of working the 1st purl fasten it on the last purl of the preceding circle; leave an interval of about 1-2/5 inch, and repeat from * till the lace is sufficiently long. the rest is worked in crochet. take the fine crochet cotton and work the straight row at the top to join the patterns together. crochet 1 double in the 3 first and last purl of the first and last circle of one pattern, then a sufficient number of double stitches under the piece of cotton which joins 2 circles. at the place where the circles are drawn together, join the two pieces of cotton (the beginning and the end) in such a manner that the top of the lace forms a straight line (see illustration). the 2nd row consists of 1 treble in every other stitch, 1 chain after every treble. then work on the other side of the lace * a row of treble stitches divided by chain. the treble stitches are worked in the purl stitches of the circles. work 1 long treble in the 1st purl left free of the 1st circle (4th purl of the circle), 3 chain, * 1 treble, 3 chain, 1 treble, 3 chain, 2 treble in the next 2 purl, but cast off the 1st treble only so far as to keep 2 loops on the needle. when the 2nd treble is completed cast off all the loops on the needle, 3 chain, 5 treble divided by 4 chain, 3 chain, 2 treble in the 2 following purl, which are cast off like those above described, 3 chain, 2 treble divided by 3 chain in the 2 next purl of a pattern, 1 chain, 1 long treble with which you must join the last purl and the first one of the next pattern, 1 chain; repeat from *. the next row consists of small scallops worked round the chain stitch scallops of the preceding row; work in each 1 double, 4 treble, 1 double, 1 double in the first and last chain stitch of every pattern. * * * * * 41.--_insertion in tatting and crochet_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 40; crochet cotton no. 60; tatting-pin no. 2. [illustration: 41.--insertion in tatting and crochet.] begin the tatting with fine cotton and 2 shuttles. work with the cotton on one shuttle over the cotton on the other in the following manner:--knot the 2 ends of cotton together * 4 times 2 double divided by a short purl, 3 long purl divided by 1 double; the 1st and 3rd purl must be three-fifths of an inch long, the 2nd one two-fifths of an inch; 4 times 2 double divided by a short purl, 1 purl two-fifths of an inch long; repeat from * till the strip of insertion is sufficiently long. then work a similar row of tatting, and join the two rows before working the 1 long purl, by fastening the cotton on the corresponding long purl of the 1st row, so that the 2 rows are joined closely together, and the purl stitches of either are turned outwards. at the top and bottom of the tatting work the 3 following rows of crochet:--* 1 double in the middle one of the 3 long purl, 8 chain, 1 double in each of the 3 following long purl, 8 chain; repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd row. 8 double in each scallop, miss the 3 double stitches of the preceding row under 3 chain. the 3rd row consists of treble stitches in every other stitch, 1 chain after every treble. lastly, the leaves are worked with thick cotton by filling up the first and last long purl of a pattern with darning stitch from illustration; the cross stitches between the two rows of tatting are worked with very fine cotton. * * * * * 42.--_purse in tatting and beads_. materials: grey purse-silk; steel beads; scarlet glacé silk; a steel clasp with chain. this purse is worked in tatting with grey silk and beads. the beads are threaded on a piece of silk, with which you work over another piece of the same. begin each of the second halves of the purse with the circle in the centre, which consists of 1 purled stitch, 1 purl (all the purl of this circle are three-tenths of an inch long, and are covered with six beads, which must be drawn up close together before working the purl), 12 double divided by 1 purl. join the stitches into a circle by knotting together the two ends of the silk. 2nd round: begin again and work one of the small circles; * 2 double, draw up one bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl without beads, 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, fasten the silk on the purl of the middle circle, so as to let it come between the 3rd and 4th bead of the 6 beads on that purl; 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl, 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, join the stitches into a circle, draw up 2 beads; work a larger circle without fastening the silk belonging to the smaller one; 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 4 beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; 1 short purl, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 4 beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; draw up 2 beads close to this large circle and repeat from *. each following small circle must be fastened on the next purl of the circle which forms the centre; they are also fastened on to each other, instead of working the 1st purl, by fastening the piece of silk over which you work on the preceding small circle; in the larger circles, instead of working the 1st purl with 4 beads, the piece of silk must be fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, so that it comes between the 2nd and 3rd beads. at the end of the round, the ends of the silk are knotted together and fastened off. [illustration: 42.--purse in tatting and beads.] 3rd round: * 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double fastened on the middle purl of the 1st circle of the preceding round, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; join the stitches into a circle, and work at a short distance a 2nd circle; 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, fastened on the last purl of the just-finished circle of this round, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double fastened on the purl of the preceding round which is between 2 circles; the loop must come between the 2 beads; 3 double, 1 bead after each; 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads; 3 double, with 1 bead after each; 1 double; leave a small interval, and repeat 11 times more from *, then fasten the ends. when two similar parts have been worked, line them with scarlet glacé silk; fasten them together round the outside, and sew on the clasp. a round of large circles edges the purse round the outside. the 1st of these circles consists of 12 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double. work a 2nd circle at a short distance from the 1st: * 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double fastened on the purl of the 1st circle of this round; 7 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; leave a short interval, and repeat from * till a sufficient number of circles have been made. the last purl is not worked in the last circle. * * * * * 43.--_insertion in tatting and crochet._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 40; crochet cotton no. 60; tatting-pin no. 3. [illustration: 43.--insertion in tatting and crochet.] this pattern is composed of leaves and flowers. each of the six leaves forming a circle is composed of 4 double, 2 purl, separated by 2 double, 4 double (the first and last purl of each leaf must be joined in the manner before explained), and the centre of each circle forms a wheel. the flower has four leaves: each leaf consists of 6 double, ii purl, separated each by 1 double, and again 6 double; each leaf is filled up with button-hole stitches in fine cotton. to form the circle in the centre of this flower, turn several times the thread which joins the leaves, and work button-hole stitches round it. join the flowers and the circles by knotting them together, or by making 1 purl longer than the others, and by drawing the next figure through. the crochet border on each side of the tatting consists of six rows, which are plainly seen in the illustration. * * * * * 44.--_border in tatting and lace stitch._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 20 and 40. [illustration: 44.--border in tatting and lace stitch.] this mixture of tatting and lace stitch is a style of work not only entirely new, but very pretty and effective when cotton of very different sizes is used. the tatting is begun with a row of circles two-thirds of an inch distant from each other; each circle consists of 13 stitches of plain tatting. fasten a 2nd row to the 1st, and a 3rd to the 2nd, by working a circle of 13 stitches of plain tatting at one-third of an inch distance, * then at the same distance; fasten the cotton on the next circle of the preceding row, work a circle at the same distance again, and repeat from *. the cotton is fastened on the circles by drawing it through the circle with a crochet-needle, so as to form a loop, and then drawing it out of the loop. take care to keep the distance between 2 circles always the same. between the circles of the 3rd row draw another piece of cotton, by fastening the cotton on each circle of the 3rd row at distances of two-thirds of an inch. then work the lower edge of the border in the following way:--1 small spot called a _josephine knot_ (for which work 5 stitches of plain tatting, draw the cotton downwards through the loop which fastens the stitches, and draw up the whole), fasten the cotton between the next two circles of the 3rd row, * and a little further make a spot consisting of 8 stitches of single tatting, close to this a circle formed of 3 double, 9 purl divided by 2 double, 3 double; then again a spot of 8 stitches of plain tatting, turn the 2 last spots so as to make their round sides come opposite one another; fasten the cotton on again between the 2 next circles of the 3rd row. then a little further off work 1 small spot (5 stitches of plain tatting), 1 circle of 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 5 purl divided by 2 double, 3 double; then again a small spot (5 plain stitches), fasten the cotton on again between the next 2 circles of the 3rd row, and repeat from *, always fastening each new circle to the corresponding purl of the preceding one. on the other long side, the border is completed by 2 rows of crochet. the 1st row is formed by working 1 double under the piece of cotton between 2 circles of the 1st row, with 5 chain stitches between. 2nd row: 1 treble in every other stitch, 1 chain stitch after every treble. the strip of insertion is then tacked on a piece of cardboard or oil-cloth, and the lace stitches are worked between the circles, as is seen in illustration. * * * * * 45.--_tatted rosette._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 30 for large rosette, no. 80 for small rosette; tatting-pin no. 3. this rosette forms a very pretty trimming for lingerie--cravats, caps, handkerchiefs, &c. the raised pattern in the centre consists of 4 rounds, consisting of 5 circles each, which are sewn together and then fastened on the rosette. the 5 circles of each round must be worked close to each other: after working the last circle of each round, knot the beginning and end of the cotton together. each circle of the smallest round has 9 double, the circles of the next round each 15, the circles of the following one 21, and the circles of the last and largest round 27 double stitches. when these circles have been sewn on one to another as in illustration, work a large circle consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 9 times alternately 5 double, 1 purl, then 1 double. the purls of this circle are fastened on to the circles of the next round of the rosette. fasten the cotton on to the next purl of the middle circle, and work a circle as follows:--4 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double. repeat 9 times more from *, but now, instead of working the 1st purl of every circle, fasten it on to the last purl of the preceding circle. then fasten the cotton. for the last round, which consists of scallops and rounds, fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of a circle of the preceding round, and work a circle consisting of 3 times alternately 4 double, 1 [illustration: 45.--tatted rosette.] purl, then 4 double. then fasten a second thread on to the same purl on which the just completed circle has been fastened, and over which all the scallops are to be worked. work over it 5 double, fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double. fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the next circle of the preceding round, and repeat from * till the round is completed; but in working these circles, instead of the first purl, fasten them on to the last purl of the preceding scallop. lastly, the raised pattern is sewn on. * * * * * 46.--_linen bag for tatting, &c._ materials: fine linen; messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 30 or 40; tatting-pin no. 2. [illustration: 46.--linen bag for tatting, &c.] this pretty linen bag is meant to keep tatting and such work from being soiled before it is completed. the bag is drawn together round the top. its size depends upon what you wish to put into it. the original pattern is 3-3/4 inches deep, and 3 inches wide; it is hemmed round the top, and trimmed with a narrow tatted lace, consisting of large and small circles. * * * * * 47.--_tatted border._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 40; tatting-pin no. 2. [illustration: 47.--tatted border.] begin this elegant border with 2 rows of tatting, in the following manner:-1st row: 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double; draw these stitches up into a circle, and repeat the circle at a very short distance, till the border is long enough; but instead of working the first purl of each circle, you must join the circle to the preceding one; the purl on the sides of the circle must therefore be longer than that in the middle. for the 2nd row take another shuttle, make a loop on the left side with the cotton, and work with this end of cotton over the cotton in the right hand, which is also to be held between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. then work in the following way:--2 double, then 1 circle consisting of 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double; to form this circle, let the cotton in the left-hand shuttle fall downwards, and make a loop round the left hand with the cotton on the shuttle of the right hand. then take up again the left-hand shuttle, and join the circle to the middle purl of the 1st circle of the 1st row by drawing the cotton through the purl like a loop, and then drawing the cotton in the right hand through this loop. * 7 double, 1 circle, 7 double, joined to the middle purl of the next circle of the 1st row; 1 circle, 5 double, 1 circle joined on the middle purl of the following circle; repeat from *. the upper edge of the border is worked in 2 crochet rows, in the following manner:-1st row: * 2 treble, divided by 1 chain in the 1st circle of the 1st row of tatting; 2 chain; repeat from *. 2nd row: * 1 treble in the 1st chain of the preceding row, 1 purl (3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st), miss 1 stitch of the preceding row under it; repeat from *. * * * * * 48.--_rosette in embroidery and tatting._ materials for trimmings: messrs. walter evans and co.'s knitting cotton no. 20; tatting cotton no. 50; tatting-pin no. 3. for couvrettes, crochet cotton no. 4. this rosette, joined to other similar ones, forms a very pretty trimming for articles of fine linen, or even for small couvrettes; if used for the former, they must be worked with very fine cotton. the centre of the rosette is formed of an embroidered raised pattern worked in _point de minute_; round this centre there are small circles worked in button-hole stitch; the embroidery is worked with knitting cotton, the circles with crochet cotton. before beginning the circles, make a circle consisting of a foundation chain of 80 stitches, in order to be able to fasten the button-hole stitch; in each of the stitches of the foundation chain work 1 double, then fasten the cotton. in the 2nd round of these circles fasten the cotton on every 5th stitch of the crochet circle. work 1 round of open-work treble stitch in the double stitch of the crochet circle, work in tatting the border of the rosette as follows in 1 round:--* 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, fastened on to 1 chain stitch between 2 treble stitch, 2 double; 1 purl, 2 double,; join these stitches into a circle; turn the work so that the wrong side lies upwards, and work a second larger circle at a short distance consisting of 4 double, 5 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double, turn again and repeat from *. the smaller circles must be fastened after every other treble stitch; the larger and smaller circles must be fastened above one another at the place of the 1st purl. [illustration: 48.--rosette in embroidery and tatting.] * * * * * 49--_linen collar trimmed with tatting._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co's tatting cotton no. 60; tatting-pin no. 2. [illustration: 49.--linen collar trimmed with tatting.] the diamond pattern placed in the corner of the collar is commenced in the centre. for each of the four centre leaves work 6 double stitches, 6 purl divided one from the other by 3 double stitches, then 6 more double stitches. fasten off the cotton, cut it, and begin a fresh leaf by working 2 double stitches, 10 purl divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, then 2 more double stitches. (this small leaf forms one of the corners of the diamond pattern.) fasten the cotton to the fourth purl of one of the four centre leaves, and work another leaf similar to the preceding. join this leaf by its two centre purl to the two last purl of the corner leaf (see illustration). after two more similar leaves, work one corner leaf, and continue the pattern in the same manner until you come back to the first corner leaf, then fasten off, and cut the cotton. place the diamond pattern upon the point of the collar, and cut away the material under it; fold back the edges, sew them neatly, and cover them with the following crochet edging:--make alternately 2 chain, 1 purl (the latter composed of 3 chain joined together by 1 slip stitch). it will be easy to work the circles in tatting from our illustration; they form an elegant border round the collar. we shall merely say that the centre circle is always worked separately, and that the cotton is fastened on afresh to work the eight outer leaves. the upper edge of this border is worked in crochet. it is composed of two rows--one formed of chain stitches, and a few slip stitches worked in the purl of the circles in tatting, the other worked in open treble crochet. * * * * * 50.--_cravat in cambric muslin and tatting._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 100; tatting-pin no. 3. this cravat consists of a strip of cambric muslin 1 yard long, 6 inches wide, hemmed on both sides. the ends of the cravat are ornamented with patterns in tatting, worked with tatting cotton no. 100. a rosette in tatting is sewn on in the middle of the end of the cravat. the end of the cravat is pointed, lined on the wrong side with a strip of the same material as the cravat, and edged with a tatted lace. begin the rosette in the centre with a circle worked in the following manner:--1 double, 1 purl, * twice 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, twice 4 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, * 3 double, 1 purl; repeat from * to * once more, 2 double. at the beginning of the 2nd round fasten the cotton on the 1st purl of the 1st round, and [illustration: 50.--cravat in muslin and tatting.] work as follows:--* 1 circle consisting of 10 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 10 double; fasten the cotton on to the next purl, 1 circle like the preceding one, fastened on to the next purl, 1 circle consisting of 9 double, 1 purl, 9 double fastened on to the next purl, 2 circles consisting each of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; between the 2 fasten the cotton on to the next purl; 2 similar circles fastened also on to the next purl, 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double, fastened on to the next circle; repeat once more from *, and fasten off the cotton. fasten on the cotton afresh for the 3rd round, worked in the following manner:--* 1 circle consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 times 2 double divided by 1 purl; 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double; fasten the cotton at a short distance on to the 1st purl of the 2nd round, 1 circle worked as follows:--5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle of this round, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on to the next purl of the 2nd circle of the 2nd round; 6 similar circles, between each of which the cotton is to be fastened on to the nearest purl of a circle of the 2nd round; repeat once more from *, and knot the beginning and the end of the cotton together. when completed, the rosette is sewn on the material of the cravat with button-hole stitches, taking up one purl with each stitch; the muslin is cut away underneath the rosette; then work a round of knotted stitches underneath the button-hole stitch. for the lace, make a row of circles one-fifth of an inch distant from each other, consisting each of 6 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 4 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 6 double, which are fastened together by the purl of each circle, and are sewn on the cravat over the cotton between the circles in overcast stitch. * * * * * 51--_cravat in cambric muslin and tatting_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 100; tatting-pin no. 3. [illustration: 51.--cravat in muslin and tatting.] the end of this cravat is formed by a long rosette or _médaillon_ in tatting. this rosette is likewise begun in the centre, and consists of 4 rounds, the 2 first of which are worked like those of the rosette in illustration 50, with this difference only, that in the 2nd round each of the circles nearest to the top and to the bottom of the rosette consists of 8 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 8 double. 3rd round: * 1 circle, consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double, fastened on to the next purl of the 2nd circle of the preceding round; 1 circle as follows:--5 double, the last of which is fastened on to the last purl of the preceding round, 4 double, 1 purl, twice 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on the next purl of the preceding round; 8 more similar circles, between each of which the cotton is fastened on to the next purl of the preceding round; repeat from * once more, fasten the two ends of the cotton together. 4th round: * fasten on the cotton afresh with a circle consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 6 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 7 double, fastened on to the middle purl of the 1st circle of the preceding round; a 2nd circle worked in the same way, only instead of working the last purl, fasten the cotton on to the last purl of the preceding circle, then on to the 1st circle of the preceding round; 10 more similar circles, between each of which the cotton is fastened on to the middle purl of a circle of the preceding round, and then on to the 2nd purl of the larger circle at the bottom of the medallion; repeat once more from *. the pattern is sewn on the cravat with button-hole stitches, as can be seen in the illustration. * * * * * 52.--_border in crochet and tatting_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s boar's head cotton no. 26. this border is formed of circles in tatting and crochet leaves, which are joined together by rows of crochet work; a narrow [illustration: 52.--border in crochet and tatting.] border in tatting forms the lower edge. omitting this edge, the border forms a strip of insertion. each of the rosettes or circles is begun in the centre; work first 2 double (a double stitch is formed by passing the thread over the back of the hand, and then passing the shuttle upwards between the forefinger and second finger, and drawing it up, then work a stitch of plain tatting; this completes the double stitch, and whenever so many double stitches are directed it means the 2 stitches), 1 purl, repeat 9 times, join the stitch into a circle, work at a small distance * a smaller ring consisting of 3 double, 5 purl, divided each by 2 double stitches, 4 double, draw the cotton through the purl of the first circle, and repeat 8 times more from *, only each following circle must be fastened on to a purl of the preceding circle after 3 double stitches, and having completed each circle the thread must be drawn through the purl of the first circle, which forms the centre of the rosette. the beginning and the end of the thread are knotted together. for the tatted border, make at short distances 1 loop with 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double; after having worked a sufficient number of such loops, wind another thread round the thread between the loops, turning always 1 loop on the right side and 1 on the left. now begin the crochet part with the leaves. make for each of these a foundation chain of 12 stitches, crochet back over this chain 2 double in the last stitch but one, 1 double in the next stitch, 1 treble in each of the following 7 chain, 2 treble in the next stitch, 2 treble, 1 long treble, and 2 treble in the next following stitch of the foundation chain. work on the other side of the chain the same pattern, only the reverse way; then 3 double in the point of the leaf thus formed, and edge the whole leaf with a round of double stitches, always working 2 double in each stitch of the preceding row, and 3 in the long treble stitch. in working this last round, the circles must be joined to the leaves by taking up the purl stitch of the circle before casting off the corresponding double stitch of the leaf; then work the stem which joins the 2 rows of circles and leaves with a row of chain stitches, on which a row of double is worked. then comes the border which forms the upper edge. make a row of chain stitches, joining leaves and circles together, then work 3 rows of treble, work 3 more rows over the tatted border, the first row entirely in chain stitches, after every fourth stitch take up the purl of the loops on one side. 2nd row: 1 treble in the middle stitch of the 3 chain, 2 treble, divided by 3 chain. 3rd row: 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1 under the last. in the last row the leaves and circles must be fastened on the border, as seen in illustration. * * * * * 53.--_diamond in tatting_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s crochet cotton no. 10; tatting-pin no. 2; any sized shuttle. [illustration: 53.--diamond in tatting.] 1st oval: fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a double thread is required, and commence by working 5 double stitches, 1 purl, then (3 double, 1 purl 10 times), 5 double, draw up. double thread: putting the thread attached to the reel round the left hand, work 7 single stitches, taking care to do them tightly. 2nd oval: 4 double, join to the last purl of 1st oval, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up. double thread: 12 single stitches tightly worked. 3rd oval: 4 double, join to last purl of 2nd oval, 3 double, join to next purl of 2nd oval, then (3 double, 1 purl 5 times) 4 double, draw up. double thread: 12 single stitches. 4th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4 double, draw up. double thread: 12 single stitches. 5th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up. double thread: 12 single stitches. 6th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 4 times) 4 double, draw up. double thread: 7 single stitches. 7th oval: 5 double, join to last purl of last oval, then (3 double, 1 purl, 10 times) 5 double, draw up. double thread: 7 single stitches. 8th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up. double thread: 12 single stitches. 9th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up. double thread: 12 single stitches. 10th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4 double, draw up. double thread: 12 single stitches. 11th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up. double thread: 12 single stitches. 12th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 3 times) 3 double, join to 1st purl of 1st oval, 4 double, draw up. double thread: 7 single stitches. now cut off both threads, and with a needle fasten off neatly at the back of first oval by sewing 1 thread over the other. the diamond is now finished. the centre must be filled up with lacework, using fine sewing-cotton. arranged in groups of 7 or 8, 3 diamonds form a very pretty trimming for the skirts of silk dresses, the body being trimmed with single diamonds. * * * * * 54.--_linen collar trimmed with tatting_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 100, tatting-pin no. 3; 1 piece of very fine cord. this collar is ornamented with a triangle and a border of a very effective pattern. the triangle is begun in the centre, by working for each of the three leaves 5 double stitches, 5 purl divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, and 5 more double stitches. when the third leaf is completed, fasten off and cut the cotton. now take, instead of the cotton wound upon the shuttle, a piece of extremely fine cord, over which work with the cotton from the reel the following row of stitches:--1 double stitch, fasten the cotton to the centre purl of one of the three leaves, * 2 double stitches, 5 purl divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches, fasten the cotton to the centre purl of the nearest leaf, 2 double stitches, 9 purl divided one from the other by 3 double stitches, 2 double stitches fastened to the same purl as before. repeat from * twice more, then fasten off, and cut the cord and the cotton. begin afresh, and work 3 small circles, each composed of 12 plain stitches placed quite close together (these form one of the corners of the triangle), then at small distances one from the other work 13 similar circles, every second one of which is fastened to one purl of the row of [illustration: 54.--linen collar trimmed with tatting.] stitches worked over the cord (see illustration). cut away from the collar the piece of linen which is to be replaced by the triangle, fold in the edges and work them round in button-hole stitch, and fill up the space with the triangle. for the border, work first * one circle composed of 3 double stitches, 4 purl divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, 3 more double stitches; take up the cord once more and work over it, 3 double stitches, then, without cord, 1 circle composed of 2 double stitches, 12 purl divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, 2 more double stitches; take up the cord again and work over it 3 double stitches, 4 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches. fasten the cotton to the third purl (reckoning from the last) of the second circle worked without cord; 3 double stitches fastened to the fourth purl of the row of stitches worked over the cord (see illustration), 2 double stitches, 6 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches fastened to the purl of next circle, 3 double stitches fastened to the last purl of the row, 2 double stitches, 3 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches; fasten the cotton to the sixth purl of the circle (reckoning from the beginning), 4 double stitches. repeat from *. work over the top of the border a crochet edging similar to that round the diamond pattern of collar no. 49. for the point of the border, at the corner of the collar, see illustration no. 54. * * * * * 55.--_tatted collar_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 100; tatting-pin no. 1. this collar is worked with very fine tatting cotton. it consists of four branched tatted patterns and of separate tatted circles, fastened on to one another as seen in illustration. the four branched patterns are worked as follow:--3 double, 1 purl, 7 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 3 double, and join the knots into a circle. work 3 similar leaves close to this 1st leaf, but instead of working the 1st purl, fasten them on to the last purl of the preceding leaf; besides this, instead of [illustration: 55.--tatted collar.] working the last purl of the 4th branch, fasten it on to the first purl of the 1st branch. when 1 such four-branched pattern is completed, knot both ends of the cotton together and cut them off. make a row of similar patterns by joining them on to the 2 middle purl of a branch of the preceding pattern, instead of working the 2 middle purl of the last branch (see illustration). two rows of similar patterns are joined by the above-mentioned circles, consisting of 32 double stitches, by fastening these circles from illustration between four branched patterns. begin each circle with 2 double stitches, fasten it on to the corresponding purl of the four-branched pattern, work again 2 double, fasten on to the next purl, and continue in the same manner till the circle is sufficiently large. each circle is ornamented with lace stitch. the collar is edged round the neck with close button-hole stitches. * * * * * 56.--_tatted collar_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 60; tatting-pin no. 3. this collar is commenced at the top, and worked with fine cotton in the following manner:--1st oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 9 times, draw the cotton into a circle, 3 double, 1 purl, 1 double, 5 times, 1 purl, 3 double, draw the cotton into a circle, and join it to the first purl of the first circle; work two more circles the same as last. 2nd oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 7 times, join the third purl to the third purl of the centre circle of preceding pattern, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 times, 2 double, 1 purl, draw the cotton up, and work 5 small circles, as follow:--3 double *, 1 purl, 1 double, 4 times, * 1 purl, 3 double, joining each circle to the purl of the 2nd oval. 3rd oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 8 times, joining the 3rd purl to the 2nd purl of the centre circle of the preceding pattern, 3 double, 1 purl, 4 times, 2 double, 1 purl, draw the cotton up, and work 7 small circles, similar to the small circles described in 2nd oval. [illustration: 56.--tatted collar.] * * * * * 57.--_circle in tatting_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co's tatting cotton no. 50; tatting-pin no. 2. [illustration: 57.--circle in tatting.] this circle is worked with fine cotton, and will be very pretty for ornamenting cravat-ends and different articles of lingerie. it is commenced in the centre with 2 double, 1 purl, repeated 8 times, draw the cotton into a ring, and work 8 small circles, as follow:--3 double, * 1 purl, 1 double, repeat from * 6 times, 1 purl, 3 double, draw up the cotton, and join it to the purl of centre ring and corresponding circle. large circle: 3 double, * 1 purl, 2 double, repeat from * 14 times, 3 double, draw up the cotton, and join it to the 4th purl of small circle. the centre of ring is filled up with lace stitches. * * * * * 58.--_tatting medallion for trimming lingeries, &c._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 50 for cravats and collars, 100 for pocket-handkerchiefs, 20 for petticoats; tatting-pin no. 2 or 3. this pattern is suitable for trimming cravats, collars, pocket-handkerchiefs, petticoats, &c., according to the size of the cotton with which it is worked. work first the round of circles which incloses the leaves, overlapping each other in the centre; begin with the smallest circle, which is at the top of the pattern; it consists of 3 double, 1 purl, 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double, 1 purl, 3 double. then work at a short distance another circle like the preceding one, only work 8 double instead of 7, and instead of working the first purl, fasten the circle on to the last purl of the preceding circle; all the other circles are fastened on to each other in the same manner. the next circle, worked again at a distance of about one-fifth of an inch, has 4 double; fasten it on to the preceding circle, 9 double, 1 purl, 9 double, 1 purl, 4 double. the following four circles are worked like the preceding one; only work in the first of these circles 10 double instead of 9, in the second 11 double, in the third 12 double. the piece of cotton which joins the circles together must also be somewhat longer between the larger circles. then work a circle [illustration: 58.--tatting medallion.] as follows: 5 double, fasten the cotton, 13 double, 1 purl, 13 double, 1 purl, 5 double; then a similar circle, but always working 14 double instead of 13. the next circle consists of 6 double, fasten the cotton, 15 double, 1 purl, 15 double, 1 purl, 6 double; the two following circles are worked in the same manner, working 16 double instead of 15. then comes the largest circle of the round, which consists of 6 double, 17 double, 1 purl, 17 double, 1 purl, 6 double. work 11 circles more like the 2nd to 12th of those just described (the 13th circle forms the middle), only the order of sizes must be reversed, so that the round closes with the smallest circle. then fasten both ends of the cotton together, so that the circles are joined into a circle. then work round this row of circles another round, the circles of which must be of graduated sizes like those of the first round. fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the first small circle of the first round, and work one circle as follows:--3 double, 1 purl, 6 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 3 double; fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the next circle, &c. the remaining circles are worked in the same manner, only they must be increased and decreased in size gradually like the circles of the first round; this is done by increasing or decreasing the number of purl, instead of working the first purl of every following circle, fasten it on to the last purl of the preceding circle. when the round is completed, fasten both ends of the cotton together. in the centre of the oval pattern, fasten 6 five-branched patterns of graduated size, which are worked in one piece. for the smallest of these patterns work first three circles, consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 5 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then again 5 double (these circles must be close to each other; the second and third circles must, moreover, be fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle). the cotton is then fastened on the first circle between the beginning and the end of the same, then work close to them two small circles, consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, fasten the cotton between the beginning and the end of the third circle. the other five-branched patterns are worked in the same manner at intervals of about three-tenths of an inch; but the separate circles of each pattern must become gradually larger. in the largest pattern the three large circles consist of 5 double, 1 purl, 8 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 5 double; the two smaller circles consist each of 15 double, 1 purl, 15 double; the size of the other patterns can easily be worked from this; the cotton which joins these last together is covered by over-casting with a needle and thread, so as to imitate double stitches. the five-branched patterns are then fastened in the oval pattern; they must overlap each other to half way, as seen in the illustration. * * * * * 59.--_tatted diamond_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 40, or 80 if required finer; tatting-pin no. 3. [illustration: 59--tatted diamond.] this pattern is meant to ornament lingerie; it is worked with fine tatting cotton in the following manner:--work a * circle consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, turn the circle downwards and work at a short distance another circle consisting of 5 double, 4 purl divided by 2 double, 5 double; at a similar distance a circle of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 5 purl divided by 2 double, 5 double; then again a circle consisting of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 3 purl divided by 2 double, 5 double: fasten the cotton on to the first circle. then turn the work so that the last three circles are turned downwards, leave an interval of at least three-fourths of an inch, and repeat three times more from *, fastening the circles on to each other from illustration. knot together the beginning and end of the cotton, work button-hole stitches round the cotton which joins the circles, as shown in illustration. the purl stitches of the four middle circles of the diamond are knotted together. * * * * * 60.--_tatted cravat end_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 50; tatting-pin no. 3; 2 shuttles. this cravat end is given in full size. it is ornamented with a tatted medallion, edged with lace. the tatting is worked with tatting fine cotton and two shuttles. make first the two rosettes which form the centre of the medallion, then the insertion-like part which edges the rosettes. the larger rosette is worked as follows:--knot the cotton of both shuttles together and work with 1 shuttle only 1 circle consisting of 10 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, 10 double; * close to this circle, which is turned downwards, work over the cotton with the other shuttle, 1 double, 1 purl, 8 double; this forms one of the scallops joining two circles. then turn the work again and work close to the just completed scallop another circle like the first, but which is joined to the first circle instead of working the purl. repeat 4 times more from *. then work another scallop and fasten both ends of cotton on to the cotton over which the first scallop has been worked, at the place where the scallop is joined to the first circle. the first round of the rosette is thus completed. work then the 2nd round over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle, beginning to work where the two ends of cotton have been fastened, * 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, fastened on to the purl of the next scallop of the preceding round, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double fastened on to the cotton between two scallops of the [illustration: 60.--tatted cravat end.] preceding round; repeat 5 times more from *. the larger rosette is now completed. the smaller rosette is worked like the first, only without the second round. the insertion-like border is worked in two halves as follows:--the half which touches the edge of the medallion is worked as follows:--knot both ends of cotton together and *, work with 1 shuttle only 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, 8 double; turn the circle downwards and work close to it over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double; this forms a scallop of the border. then turn the work again and work close to the scallop another circle like the first, but which is fastened on to the first circle instead of working the purl. turn the work again, work a scallop like the preceding one, and repeat 15 times more from *, only the scallops at the lower edge of the medallion must have a few double stitches more, as can be seen in illustration. after working the last scallop fasten the two ends of the cotton on to the 1st circle; then cut them off. the second inner half is worked like the first; only the circles are worked without any purl stitch, and fastened on to the circles of the first half from illustration; the scallops of this half are somewhat smaller; each consists of 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double. the completed border is sewn on to the rosettes from illustration; the different pieces must be first fastened on cardboard. the cotton must be wound several times round the long threads, as seen in illustration. the medallion is then sewn into the muslin at the top only; the remaining border is edged, before joining it to the muslin, with a straight row of knots to be worked over cotton, and fastened on to each outer scallop of the border at regular intervals. the number of double stitches between two purl is different, as distinctly seen in illustration. for the lace knot both ends of cotton together, * work with one shuttle only 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double; turn the work and make another circle consisting of 2 double, 9 times alternately 1 purl, 2 double; then fasten this circle on to the preceding one, where it has been joined into a circle, so that both circles meet as seen in illustration. after having turned the work again, work 9 double over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle, which form a scallop between the circles, and repeat from *. the lace is then sewn round the edge of the muslin. * * * * * 61.--_rosette in tatting and embroidery_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 60, or no. 40 if desired in a larger size. [illustration: 61. rosette in tatting and embroidery.] this rosette is suitable for ornamenting lingeries, cravats, &c. it is worked in white embroidery and lace stitch, and edged all round with a tatted lace. for the latter work with very fine cotton * 1 large circle, consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 7 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 5 double. at a short distance from this circle work a smaller one, consisting of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the large circle, 5 double. leave again an interval as small as the last, and repeat from * 11 times more. but in working the large circles, instead of working the 1st purl, fasten them on the same purl of the large circle on which the small circle has been fastened; besides this, in working the last (12th) large circle, instead of working the last purl, fasten it on the 1st purl of the 1st circle; the last small circle is fastened on to the same purl. the lace is thus joined into a circle, and is sewn round the outside of the rosette with button-hole stitches. * * * * * 62.--_cravat end in tatting_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 60; tatting-pin no. 3. [illustration: 62.--cravat end in tatting.] the illustration shows the end of a tatted cravat. work first the middle row of the cravat at the same time with the row of circles on the left side of the middle row in illustration; begin with the first circle of the middle row. it consists of 7 times alternately 3 double, 1 small purl, then 3 double. work close to this circle, which must be turned downwards, a josephine knot, consisting of 5 plain stitches, then a circle consisting of 5 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, 5 times alternately 3 double, 1 small purl; 3 double, 1 long purl, 5 double. *turn this circle (which is the first of the side row) downwards, work close to it a josephine knot, then a circle consisting of 12 double, 1 small purl, 12 double. turn this circle downwards, work a josephine knot, and then again a circle like the first of the side row, but instead of working the first long purl, fasten it on to the last purl of the preceding circle of the same row. then hold the work so that the circles of the side row are turned downwards, work a josephine knot, 1 circle like the first circle of the middle row, turn the work, make 1 josephine knot, and then a circle like the second circle of the side row. repeat from * till the cravat is sufficiently long. the last circle of the middle row must correspond to the first circle of the same row. then begin to work the lower edge at the same time with the last circle of the middle row, * 1 josephine knot, then a circle like the circles of the side row, again 1 josephine knot, fastened on to the next purl of the last circle of the middle row; repeat 3 times more from *. then continue as before, and work on the right side of the middle row a row of circles exactly like those which have been worked at the same time with those of the middle row. the fastening on of the cotton between two josephine knots is seen in illustration. the circles at the other end of the cravat are fastened like those of the first-described end. the cravat is edged all round with a row of circles with josephine knots worked exactly like those of the preceding row, and the manner of fastening which is seen in the illustration. * * * * * 63.--_rosette in tatting and embroidery_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 60, or 40 if required larger; tatting-pin no. 3. [illustration: 63.--rosette in tatting and embroidery.] the centre of this rosette is worked in lace stitch on muslin, edged round with button-hole stitch and trimmed with a tatted lace, which is worked at the same time with the centre. work first * a small circle consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 3 double, fastened on to the button-hole stitch edging of the rosette, then 3 double, 1 purl, 5 double. then turn the just-completed circle downwards, and afterwards work at a short distance a large circle consisting of 7 double, 6 times alternately 1 purl, 2 double, lastly 1 purl, 7 double, then 1 josephine knot consisting of 7 plain. then turn the work again, so that the last large circle is turned downwards, and repeat from * 12 times more; the large and small circles must be fastened on to one another, as seen in illustration. the fastening of the small circles on to the centre is likewise done from the illustration. 64.--_cravat end in tatting and darned netting_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s tatting cotton no. 50; tatting-pin no. 3; square of netting; fine mecklenburg thread no. 80. [illustration: 64.--cravat end in tatting and darned netting.] the end of this cravat is ornamented with a square of darned netting, edged with a tatted border, and sewn on to the material of the cravat. but the diamond in tatting (page 18), or the square (page 31) will look very pretty with this border. the square is worked in diamond netting, and has seven holes in length and breadth. they are darned in linen stitch, darning stitch, and _point d'esprit_, with mecklenburg thread. the ground is worked over a mesh measuring three-tenths of an inch round. for each square one more row than is needed must be worked, and the cast-on stitches are cut off, as they are longer than the stitches of the other rows. the tatted border is worked with fine tatting cotton. fasten the cotton at one corner of the square and work * a circle consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, then six times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 7 double, fasten the cotton on to the same stitch of the ground where it was first fastened; #work a second circle like the first, but fasten it, instead of working the first purl on to the last purl of the preceding circle; fasten the cotton again on to the same stitch, then on to the next stitch, and work a small circle, consisting of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double. the cotton is fastened on to the same netted stitch as before, and then on to the next stitch; repeat twice more from #, and then repeat from * in all three times more, so that the square is edged all round. it is sewn into the material from the illustration. * * * * * 65.--_tatted antimacassar. (see pages_ 574-5.) materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s boar's head cotton no. 30, or tatting cotton no. 24, or for a larger size tatting cotton no. 20; tatting-pin no. 1; large shuttle. the illustration shows the fourth of the antimacassar and the whole of the rosette which forms the centre. begin with the latter, with the five-branched pattern in the centre, at the same time with the following round of circles:--*work first one circle of this round, consisting of 3 double, 1 purl, 4 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double; then at a short distance a circle like the one just made, in which, however, instead of working the first purl, the cotton must be joined on to the last purl of the preceding circle. then work at a short distance the first leaf of the five-branched pattern, which consists of 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double. when this branch is completed, repeat at a short distance 4 times more from *; but in working the branches of the five-branched pattern, instead of working the purl, join it on to the purl of the first branch of the five-branched pattern (this purl forms the centre of the pattern). all the circles must also be joined one to each other, as can be seen from illustration. then work the scallops round the border of the rosette, * fasten the cotton on to the purl which joins the two next circles of the preceding round, and work one scallop consisting of 11 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 2 double. repeat 9 times more from *. when the rosette is completed, work eight rosettes in the same manner and join them into a circle from illustration by means of small three-branched patterns, and then join them on to the middle rosette. the strip of insertion which comes next is worked in two halves as follows:--work first, for the half turned towards the centre, two rows of circles lying opposite each other; begin with one of the largest circles, consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 3 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 4 double; * at a short distance work a smaller circle of 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double; after another short distance, a circle like the first joined on to it; then again a smaller circle, which at the place of the first purl is joined on to the purl of the preceding small circle. a short distance from this work again one of the larger circles just described, which is fastened on to the preceding similar circle; then repeat from * till the double row has nine larger and eight smaller circles. the first half of the strip of insertion is completed; the second outer half is worked like the first, only the small circles must here be worked without any purl, and two of them together must always be fastened on to the two joined small circles of the first half, as was done for the five-branched pattern of the rosette; besides this, each of the large circles has 4 double, 1 purl, 4 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 4 double. when eight similar patterns have been worked, join them into a circle from illustration by means of small rosettes; this circle is then joined to the already-finished part of the cover. the small rosettes and remaining patterns of the antimacassar are easily worked from illustration. the completed patterns are joined together in the course of the work. * * * * * tatting cotton is supplied by messrs. walter evans and co., of derby, in all sizes from 20 to 120. crochet cotton, which is preferred by some tatters, is sold in all sizes from to 120. the following table will assist ladies in selecting the size of either tatting or crochet cotton. all these cottons are on reels containing 100 yards:-|--------------------------------|-----------------|---------------| | | tatting. | crochet. | |--------------------------------|-----------------|---------------| | petticoat edgings and | | | | insertions | 20 | 0 and 12 | | night dress trimmings | 40 | 60 | | lingerie trimming | 50 | 70 | | collars and cravats | 50 | 70 | | pocket handkerchiefs | 100 | 120 | | parasol covers | 100 | 120 | | antimacassars | 20, 30 | 0 and 20 | | pincushions | 60 | 80 | | caps | 100 | 120 | | lace | 60, 80, 100 | 80, 100, 120 | | insertions | 20, 40, 80 | 40, 80, 100 | |--------------------------------|-----------------|---------------| ladies at a distance from town or on the continent will be glad to have some guide as to the quantity of cotton required to complete their work. the quantity of tatting or crochet cotton used by an average worker is found to be two yards to the square inch with a single shuttle; three yards to the square inch with two shuttles. * * * * * embroidery instructions. the art of embroidering with cotton on linen, muslin, cambric, piqué, &c., is very easy to learn by strictly attending to the following instructions. the size of the thread and needle must correspond to that of the material on which you embroider; the needle must not be too long, and the cotton must be soft. messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton is the best. skilful embroiderers never work over anything, because when you tack the material on paper or cloth each stitch shows, and if the material is very fine, leaves small holes; but for those that are learning we should advise them to tack the material to be embroidered upon a piece of _toile cirée_. if you work without this, place the material straight over the forefinger of the left hand; the material must never be held slantways. the three other fingers of the left hand hold the work; the thumb remains free to give the right position to each stitch. the work must always, if possible, lie so that the outline of the pattern is turned towards the person who works. for the sake of greater clearness one part of the following illustrations is given in larger size than nature. preparing the patterns is one of the most important things in embroidery, for the shape of the patterns is often spoiled merely because they have not been prepared with sufficient care. [illustration: 66.--scallop.] illustration 66 shows how to prepare a scallop. take thicker cotton than that with which you work; never commence with a knot, and do not take a thread longer than sixteen or eighteen inches. the outlines of the scallops are first traced with short straight stitches. in the corners particularly the stitches must be short. the space between the outlines is filled with chain stitches, as can be seen from illustration; they must not be too long, otherwise the embroidery will look coarse. it is in this way that every pattern to be worked in button-hole or satin stitch is to be prepared. [illustration: 67.--double overcast stitch.] illustration 67 shows the double overcast stitch or button-hole stitch in a straight line. after having traced the outline begin to work from left to right; fasten the cotton with a few stitches, hold it with the thumb of the left hand under the outline, insert the needle downwards above the outline, draw it out under the same above the cotton which you hold in the left hand, and draw it up. repeat for all the stitches in the same manner; they must be regular and lie close to one another. great care should be taken that the material on which you embroider is not puckered. [illustration: 68.--overcast stitch.] illustration 68 (_overcast stitch_).--the double overcast and the button-hole stitches are worked from left to right, whilst back stitches, knotted and satin stitches are worked from right to left. the stitch is worked in the same way as the double overcast, only the needle must never be drawn out _above_, but _below_, the cotton with which you work, and which you keep down with the thumb of the left hand. [illustration: 69.--slanting overcast stitch.] illustration 69.--the slanting overcast stitch is worked without tracing the outline, always inserting the needle downwards--that is, from top to bottom. the needle must be inserted in the manner shown in illustration--that is, not straight, but slanting; insert it a little farther than the last stitch, and draw it out close to it. the wrong side of the work must show back stitches. this sort of stitch is used for the fine outlines in patterns or letter. [illustration: 70.--back stitch.] illustration 70.--this shows the back stitch, the working of which is well known; it is worked in several rows close to each other. [illustration: 71.--point croisé.] [illustration: 72.--point croisé.] illustrations 71 & 72 show another kind of back stitch, called _point croisé_, which is only used on very thin and transparent materials. this stitch forms on the wrong side a sort of darned pattern, which is seen by transparence on the right side, and gives the embroidered pattern a thicker appearance, contrasting with the rest of the work (see the lower leaves of the flower on illustration 110). for this stitch insert the needle into the material as for the common back stitch, draw it out underneath the needle on the opposite outline of the pattern, so as to form on the wrong side a slanting line. insert the needle again as for common back stitch; draw it out slanting at the place marked for the next stitch on the opposite outline, as shown in illustration 71. [illustration: 73--knotted stitch.] illustration 73 shows the knotted stitch; the simplest way of working it is to work two back stitches at a short distance from each other over the same thread. the knotted stitch seen in illustration 74 is worked thus:--take about four threads of the material on the needle, draw the needle half out, wind the cotton twice round the point of the needle, hold it tight with the thumb, draw the needle out carefully and insert it at the place where the stitch was begun, and draw it out at the place where the next stitch is to be worked. [illustration: 74.--knotted stitch.] [illustration: 75.--knotted stitch] the knotted stitch seen on illustration 75 is worked in nearly the same manner as the preceding one. before drawing the cotton out of the material hold it tight with the left-hand thumb; leave the needle in the same position, wind the cotton twice round it, turn the needle from left to right, so (follow the direction of the arrow) that its point arrives where the cotton was drawn out (marked by a cross in illustration), insert the needle there, and draw it out at the place of the next stitch. illustrations 76 & 77.--raised satin stitch is principally used for blossoms, flowers, leaves, letters, &c. after having traced the outlines of the pattern, fill the space left between them with chain stitches in a direction different from that in which the pattern is to be embroidered; begin at the point of the leaf, working from right to left, make short straight stitches, always [illustration: 76.--raised satin stitch.] inserting the needle close above the outline and drawing it out below. the leaves on the flowers, as well as on the branches, must be begun from the point, because they thus acquire a better shape. if you wish to work a leaf divided in the middle, as seen in illustration 77, you must trace the veining before you fill it with chain stitches, then begin at one point of the leaf and work first one half and then the other. [illustration: 77.--raised satin stitch.] [illustration: 78.--point de plume.] illustration 78 shows the so-called _point de plume_ on a scalloped leaf. it is worked like the satin stitch, only the needle is drawn through the material in a slanting direction. [illustration: 79.--point de minute.] illustration 79 (_point de minute_).--this stitch is often used instead of satin stitch when the patterns must appear raised. wind the cotton several times round the point of the needle, which is inserted into the material half its length (the number of times the cotton is to be wound round the needle depends on the length of the pattern), hold fast the windings with the thumb of the left hand, draw the needle and the cotton through the windings, insert the needle into the material at the same place, and draw it out at the place where the next stitch is to begin. [illustration: 80.--ladder stitch.] [illustration: 81.--ladder stitch.] illustrations 80 & 81 show the _ladder stitch_, often used in ornamental embroidery. trace first the outlines as seen in illustrations; mark also the cross stitches between the outlines, so that the first touch the outlines only at both ends. the outlines are embroidered in overcast stitch or double overcast; the material is cut away underneath the ladder stitch between the outlines. we have now shown the different kinds of stitches used in embroidery; the following illustrations show them used for different patterns. [illustration: 82.--button-hole stitch scallop.] [illustration: 83.--button-hole stitch scallop.] [illustration: 84.--button-hole stitch scallop.] [illustration: 85.--button-hole stitch scallop.] illustrations 82 to 85 (_different button-hole stitch scallops_).--these scallops are prepared as above described. take care to have the stitches even and regular; the scallops must be wide in the centre and very fine at both ends. illustrations 86 & 87 (_button-holes and eyelets_).--this kind of embroidery is used only in round or long patterns. trace first the outline of the hole, cut away a small round piece of material, not too close to the outlines (when the button-hole is very small merely insert the point of the scissors or a stiletto into the material), fold the edge of the material back with the needle, and work the hole in overcast stitch, inserting the needle into the empty place in the centre and drawing it out under the outline. some button-holes are worked separately; sometimes they are in a row; if so, take care to begin to work each button-hole at the place where it touches the next. in the following button-holes the outside must be traced double, so as to reach as far as the next one, but each button-hole is finished at once. illustration 86 shows a button-hole worked round in button-hole stitch, 87 an eyelet-hole worked in overcast. [illustration: 86.--button and eyelet holes.] [illustration: 87.--button and eyelet holes.] [illustration: 88.--shaded button-hole.] [illustration: 89.--shaded button-hole.] illustrations 88 & 89.--shaded button-holes are worked like the others, only they are prepared, as can be seen in illustration 89, so as to mark the thickness. the stitches must gradually get narrower or wider, and be worked very close to each other. [illustration: 90.--leaf in raised satin stitch.] illustrations 90 & 91 (_two leaves in raised satin stitch_).--in a leaf like the one seen in 90 work first the outline and veining in overcast stitch; work one half of the leaf in satin stitch, and the other half between the overcast outline and veining in back stitch. the stem of a leaf is always worked last. [illustration: 91.--leaf in raised satin stitch.] [illustration: 92.--raised leaf.] illustrations 92 & 93 (_two leaves in satin stitch and point de plume_).--for leaves like the one seen in 93 begin with the veinings, then work the inner points, then the outer ones, and lastly the raised spots in the centre. the leaf seen in 92 is worked, one half in _point de plume_, the other half in back stitch or _point d'or_. [illustration: 93.--raised leaf.] [illustration: 94.--leaf.] illustration 94.--the outline of this leaf is embroidered in overcast stitch; the open-work veining consists of eyelets; one half of the leaf is worked in back stitch, the other half in a kind of satin stitch worked without chain stitches underneath; the stitches are worked across the leaf, leaving between two stitches an interval as wide as the stitch itself. the next row is then worked in these intervals, and each stitch begins half-way up the one before and after it. [illustration: 95.--leaf raised.] [illustration: 96.--leaf raised.] [illustration: 97.--raised leaf.] illustrations 95 to 97 (_leaf in raised embroidery).--this kind of embroidery is particularly beautiful, as it is worked separately and sewn on the material with an outline in very fine cotton, this produces the shade seen in 95 (see also illustrations 98 to 113). for such leaves work first one half in overcast and satin stitch (illustration 96); the other half is worked on a separate piece of material (see illustration 97); cut away the material along the overcast outline, and fasten it on the foundation material along the outline which forms the veining on illustration 96. [illustration: 98.--raised embroidered leaf.] [illustration: 99.--half of leaf (98).] [illustration: 100.--centre of leaf (98).] illustrations 98 to 100 show a similar leaf; both halves are worked separately (see 99); the centre is worked in open lace stitch. the latter (see no. 100) is traced, then make ladder stitches across, work the outlines in overcast stitch, and cut away the material underneath the ladder stitch. the cross stitches are then worked in darning stitch with very fine cotton wherever two threads meet. [illustration: 101.--blossom in satin stitch.] illustration 101 (_blossom in satin stitch_).--the eyelet is worked in overcast stitch, then work the upper part of the blossom all in one piece as far as the beginning of the veining, thence the blossom is worked in two halves. [illustration: 102.--blossom in satin stitch.] [illustration: 103.--bead partly covered.] illustrations 102 & 103 (_blossom in satin stitch_).--the raised centre of this flower is formed by a bead, over which the embroidery is worked. when the leaves have been worked one after the other, place a bead in the centre, left free in such a manner that one hole lies on the material, and work over the bead by inserting the needle into its upper hole, then underneath the material, drawing it out above the material close to the bead, and so on (see 103). [illustration: 104.--star in satin stitch.] illustration 104 (_star pattern in satin stitch_).--the centre, which forms a wheel, is worked first. draw the threads across the circle marked by an outline; in the centre they are wound round, always taking one thread _on the needle_ and leaving the next thread _under the needle_, as can be seen in 122 on the half-finished pattern. the material underneath the wheel is only cut away when the rest of the pattern has been embroidered. [illustration: 105.--star in point de reprise.] illustrations 105 & 106 (_patterns in back, satin, and ladder stitches_).--the small star in the centre of no. 105 is worked in _point de reprise_. [illustration: 106.--star.] [illustration: 107.--flower in satin stitch.] illustration 107 (_flower in satin stitch_).--the fine veinings are worked with fine black silk in _point russe_, which renders the effect of the flower very beautiful. [illustration: 108--rose in satin stitch.] [illustration: 109.--petal for rose.] illustrations 108 & 109 (_rose in satin stitch_).--no. 109 shows one petal larger than full size. the outer circle only is prepared with chain stitches underneath, so as to appear raised; the inner circles are worked flat. the centre of the rose is embroidered in open work. [illustration: 110.--heartsease.] illustration 110 (_embroidered heartsease_).--for the knotted stitch see no. 75. for the _point croisé_ see 71 and 72. [illustration: 111.--raised flower] illustration 111 (_flower in raised satin stitch_). [illustration: 112.--ear of corn.] illustration 112 (_an ear of corn in point de minute_). [illustration: 113.--bluebell.] [illustration: 114.--inner part of bluebell.] illustrations 113, 114, & 116 (_bluebell in raised satin stitch_).--this flower is worked partly in separate pieces, as has been described. illustration 116 shows the raised part stretched out flat. when it is finished it is fastened down along the dotted line on no. 114, which shows the inner part of the flower. [illustration: 115.--flower.] illustration 115 (_flower in point de minute_).--this stitch is here worked over a thick foundation of chain stitches. for raised patterns it looks very well. [illustration: 115.--outer part of bluebell.] [illustration: 117.--flower appliquéd on net.] illustrations 116 & 117 (_flower worked in appliqué_).--to work in appliqué, two materials, either similar or different, are needed. you can work either in appliqué of muslin on muslin, or of muslin on net, or of net on net. muslin on brussels net is the prettiest way of working in appliqué; we will therefore describe it: the other materials are worked in the same manner. trace the pattern on the muslin, fasten the latter on the net, and trace the outlines of the pattern with very small stitches work them in overcast stitch with very fine cotton, taking care not to pucker the material. the veinings are worked in overcast. when the pattern has been embroidered cut away the muslin round the outlines with sharp scissors, so that the net forms the grounding (see no. 117). the greatest care is required in cutting out the muslin to avoid touching the threads of the net. [illustration: 118.--border.] illustrations 118 & 119 (_narrow borders_).--it will be easy to work these borders from the above instructions. observe only that on border 118 the outer row of scallops is worked first, then the button-hole stitch row, and the rest afterwards. the spots are edged all round in knotted stitch. the wheels in the centre of the eyelets of no. 119 are worked with very fine cotton in loose button-hole stitch; they are wound round with the cotton in a second row. [illustration: 119.--border.] [illustration: 120.--insertion.] illustrations 120 to 122.--three strips of insertion, which are worked nearly like the ladder stitch. for no. 120, in tracing the outlines, make two small knots at short distances by winding the cotton four times round the needle, as can be seen in illustration; the windings are held down with the thumb of the left hand, draw the needle through, and a knot is formed. the outlines are worked in button-hole stitch only when all the knots have been made, and then the material is cut away underneath. illustration 121 is a variety of the slanting ladder stitch. illustration 122.--the cross threads are worked in two rows in the common herring-bone stitch, as can be seen by the black lines on the illustration. the straight lines at the top and at the bottom are worked in double overcast; lastly, the wheels are worked in a row as described for the star pattern, no. 104. [illustration: 121.--insertion.] [illustration: 122.--insertion.] [illustration: 123. u] [illustration: 124. c] [illustration: 125. b] [illustration: 126. o] illustrations 123 to 129 (_embroidered initials_).--to learn to work initials the roman characters are the easiest to begin with. they must be traced and prepared like other embroidery in satin stitch, only the chain stitches underneath must not be too thick: it would take away the shape of the letters. all depends on the fineness and regularity of the stitches; they must be worked in overcast stitch. work from left to right, and the letter when completed must look rather like raised printing than like embroidery. gothic letters are much more difficult to work on account of the many flourishes; it requires great practice in needlework to embroider them well. illustration 123.--the small black dots are worked in black silk on the thick parts of the letter: the fine strokes are covered with cross threads of black silk. illustration 124.--the outlines of the letter and the fine strokes are worked in black silk. illustration 125.--this letter is embroidered in raised satin stitch and _point de plume_. illustration 126.--this letter is worked in back stitches, over which are worked at regular distances cross stitches of black silk. illustration 127.--letter in satin and back stitch. illustration 128 to be worked in overcast and double overcast. illustration 129.--letter g in _point russe_ with black silk. [illustration: 127.] [illustration: 128.] [illustration: 129.] [illustration: 130.] illustration 130 (_embroidered figures_).--they are worked like the letters in _point de plume_ and overcast; the dots are worked in knotted stitch. * * * * * embroidery. [in working the following embroidery patterns it will be found advisable to trace the design clearly upon tracing-paper with a sharp-pointed lead pencil. the pattern thus traced must be perforated with a fine needle in a succession of tiny holes, at the rate of about twenty to the inch. those ladies who possess a sewing-machine will find no difficulty in accomplishing this. several thicknesses of paper can be perforated at the same time, if required, by any ordinary machine. to transfer the traced and perforated design to the fabric to be embroidered, it is only necessary to rub a small quantity of powder blue through the holes.] 131.--_insertion in embroidery_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. this insertion is worked in raised satin stitch and button-hole stitch. the outlines must first be traced and the space filled up with chain stitches. to work a leaf, begin at the point, working from right to left, making short stitches, and always inserting the needle close above the outline and drawing it out below. the holes left for the ribbon to pass through are worked in plain button-hole stitch, the dots are worked in raised satin stitch. [illustration: 131.--insertion in embroidery.] * * * * * 132.--_insertion in embroidery and stitching_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton nos. 10 and 16. the veinings of this pretty insertion must be worked in overcast stitch (no. 68, _embroidery instructions_), the leaves and flowers in raised satin stitch, the scallops in button-hole stitch, and the outer edge of the leaves in back stitch (no. 70, _embroidery instructions_) with no. 10 cotton. [illustration: 132.--insertion in embroidery and stitching.] * * * * * 133.--_cravat end in embroidery_. materials: muslin, cambric, or linen; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 24, or fine black china silk. this graceful design is worked in raised satin stitch (see nos. 76 and 77, _embroidery instructions_) and back stitching, or point russe. black silk may be introduced at will, and the delicate leaves may be stitched in fine black silk, and the flowers embroidered in white, with the stamens in black silk. [illustration: 133.--embroidered pattern for cravat ends, &c.] * * * * * 134.--_basket embroidered in chenille_. materials: a basket of fine wicker-work; 1 skein of black chenille, and 3 of blue chenille. this small round basket measures seven inches across; it has a cover and two handles. the wicker is very delicately plaited, and is ornamented with a pattern in chenille which is very easy to work. upon the cover, work in point russe one large star in blue chenille, with the centre and outer circle in black. all round, work small stars in blue chenille, with a black stitch in the centre. the position of these stars is shown in our illustration. the basket requires no mounting; it is not even lined. [illustration: 134.--basket embroidered in chenille.] * * * * * 135.--_pattern for collars and cuffs in embroidery._ materials: muslin, cambric or lawn; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton perfectionné no. 40. work the outer circle in long even scallops (see page 90 of _embroidery instructions_) in raised button-hole stitch; the spray of flowers is embroidered in raised satin stitch, the leaves in the same, and the rosebud calyx in tiny eyelet-holes. the centres of the roses are embroidered in open-work. [illustration: 135.--embroidery pattern for collars, cuffs, &c.] * * * * * 136.--_cravat end in embroidery_. materials: muslin, brussels net; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 30. tack the traced muslin over the net and work the scallop of the inner edge; next the design in the centre must be worked in raised satin stitch (see no. 77 in _embroidery instructions_). the raised dots are also worked in satin stitch (see page 90 of _embroidery instructions_). lastly, work the outer edging of round scallops and the lines of raised dots, and with a pair of embroidery scissors carefully cut away the muslin from the outer edge and from the leaves of the centre pattern. [illustration: 136.--cravat end in embroidery.] * * * * * 137.--_embroidery pattern for collars, cuffs, &c_. materials: linen; messrs. walter evans and co.'s cotton perfectionné no. 40. this pretty star should be worked in fine overcast stitch (see no. 68 in _embroidery instructions_). the centre is worked in raised satin stitch leaves round a circle of button-hole stitch, in the middle of which a wheel is worked thus:--slip the cotton under the thick edge and fasten it, then cross it over and back so as to make 8 bars, then twist the cotton twice round 1 bar; this will bring it to the centre; work over and under each of the bars until a thick dot is formed; fasten the cotton beneath this, and twist it twice round the bar opposite to the first one you worked, and finish off. [illustration: 137.--embroidery pattern for collars, cuffs, &c.] * * * * * 138.--_embroidery covering for a quilted counterpane_. materials: cashmere, cambric muslin, or linen; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 4. [illustration: 138.--embroidery covering for a quilted counterpart.] this is an embroidery-pattern for a woollen or silk quilted counterpane. such counterpanes generally have a lining which is turned back on the right side, and buttoned down at the point of each scallop. the pattern is a quilted counterpane of scarlet cashmere; the lining is of fine linen. before embroidering it, make the points for the corners. the embroidery is worked in button-hole stitch, overcast, satin, and ladder stitch. it can also be worked on fine cambric or muslin, and then the embroidered pattern sewn on the piece of linen which forms the cover on the wrong side. make the button-holes as seen on illustration, and sew on mother-of-pearl or china buttons. * * * * * [illustration: 139.--embroidery pattern for cravat ends, &c.] * * * * * 139.--_embroidery pattern for ornamenting collars, cuffs, &c_. materials: muslin, cambric, or linen; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 40. this pattern is worked in satin stitch, point russe, and point d'or on muslin, cambric, or linen; it is suitable for collars, or cravat ends, or handkerchief corners. * * * * * 140.--_handkerchief in embroidery_ materials: french cambric; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 50. [illustration: 140.--handkerchief in embroidery.] three rows of hem-stitching ornament this handkerchief; the pattern forms an insertion within the outer rows, the flowers are worked in raised satin stitch, with eyelet-hole centres (see no. 87 of _embroidery instructions_); the tendrils are worked in overcast stitch; three rows of raised dots, in groups of four, are worked on the inner side of the last row of hem-stitching. this pattern looks very handsome on a broad-hemmed handkerchief. * * * * * 141.--_convolvulus leaf insertion_. materials: muslin; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 20. [illustration: 141.--convolvulus leaf insertion.] the convolvulus leaves are worked in raised satin stitch, the veinings and stems in overcast stitch, the eyelet-holes in slanting overcast stitch. (see no. 69 of _embroidery instructions_.) * * * * * 142.--_insertion_. materials: muslin; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 20. this simple insertion is worked in raised satin stitch, the stems alone excepted; these are embroidered in overcast stitch. [illustration: 142.--insertion.] * * * * * 143 and 144.--_two patterns in embroidery for trimming lingerie_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 20, and mecklenburg thread no. 50. [illustration: 143 and 144.--patterns for trimming lingerie.] these patterns are worked in point russe and stitching; the spots in satin and knotted stitch. illustration 143 is ornamented in the centre with lace stitches. * * * * * 145 _and_ 146.--_insertion_. materials: muslin; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. the two insertions, nos. 145 and 146, are worked partly in satin stitch, partly in open-work embroidery, and are edged on either side with an open-work hem. [illustration: 145.--insertion.] [illustration: 146.--insertion.] * * * * * 147.--_couvrette in appliqué embroidery_. materials: net, fine muslin; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. the pattern must be traced on the muslin, which should be tacked on the net. the outline of the design must be traced with very small stitches, and worked in overcast stitches, as are also the veinings; the dots are worked in raised satin stitch; the border is embroidered with satin stitch flowers and scallop button-hole stitch. to work appliqué on net, see no. 117 of _embroidery instructions_. [illustration: 147.--couvrette in appliqué embroidery.] * * * * * 148.--_wreath for centre of pincushion or toilet mat_. materials for pincushion: jaconet muslin; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. for toilet mat: white piqué; cotton no. 12. [illustration: 148.--wreath for centre of pincushion or toilet mat.] the leaves and flowers are worked in satin stitch; the eyelet-holes and stems in overcast stitch. * * * * * 149.--_corner for handkerchief in point russe_. materials: french cambric, fine china black sewing-silk, or filoselle. [illustration: 149.--corner for handkerchief in point russe.] point russe stitch is made by a succession of back stitches. these stitches carefully follow every line of the design, and are worked in black china sewing-silk or filoselle. the pattern should be repeated at each corner of the handkerchief. * * * * * 150 _to_ 152.--_borders and insertions_.--_white embroidery_. materials: lawn; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 30, and mecklenburg thread no. 50; fine black sewing-silk. [illustration: 150.--embroidered border.] for the border no. 150, trace first the outlines of the scallop, then draw the threads which are to form the wheel in each scallop (take for this fine mecklenburg thread, for the rest embroidery cotton), fasten them at the places where they cross each other, and work at these places small and large spots in satin stitch. then work the scallops in button-hole stitch; edge each larger spot with button-hole stitch all round, and make a row of button-hole stitches for the upper edge of the border, and above this a row of herring-bone stitches. the material is cut away underneath the wheels. * * * * * [illustration: 151.--corner in embroidery.] [illustration: 152.--corner in embroidery.] the corner borders, illustrations 151 and 152, are worked in point russe, chain and satin stitch, with fine black sewing silk. * * * * * [illustration: 153--cravat end in embroidery] 153.--_muslin cravat_. materials: muslin; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 50; no. 40 for the edges. this cravat is worked on fine muslin, embroidered upon both ends in raised satin stitch; the scalloped edge is worked in button-hole stitch; the bouquet in the centre is worked in appliqué satin stitch--that is, the leaves of the rose and the foliage are worked separately on muslin; they are then cut out and worked in appliqué (see nos. 113 and 116, _embroidery instructions_) upon the cravat, as seen in the illustration. * * * * * 154.--_sandwich case_. materials: strip of grey kid; strip of oil silk; 1 skein black silk; 1 skein red purse silk; 1 hank steel beads; steel button. this case will be found very useful on the occasion of a journey or picnic, as it can be carried in the pocket without any inconvenience. the case is made of a strip of grey kid, scalloped out at the edges. the words "bon appetit," or "good appetite," at will, are worked over it in overcast with black purse silk and steel beads, the scroll pattern in chain stitch with red silk. the back and front of the case are formed of the same strip, which is lined with oilskin, and to which narrow side-pieces are added to form the pocket. these pieces are lined and scalloped out in the same way as the back and front, and then the scallops of both sides are joined together, and worked round in button-hole stitch with purse silk. the case is fastened down with a steel button. if another colour is preferred, the sandwich case can be made of brown kid. the scroll pattern should then be worked in rich blue purse silk, and gold beads used for the letters, which should be embroidered as before in black silk. the edge may be worked in double overcast stitch in blue or black silk. a gold button must replace the steel when this alteration of colour is made. [illustration: 154.--sandwich case.] * * * * * 155.--_insertion_. materials: muslin; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. this insertion is worked in raised satin stitch between two rows of hem-stitching; a small eyelet-hole is worked in the centre of each flower. [illustration: 155.--insertion.] * * * * * 156.--_cravat end in raised embroidery_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s. embroidery cotton nos. 50 and 16. this pattern is a muslin cravat 32 inches long. the greater part of the embroidered ends is worked in satin stitch; the leaves in the bouquet of the centre are worked in raised embroidery. (see nos. 113 and 116, _embroidery instructions_.) the dotted lines are raised by taking four threads of the muslin on the needle, draw it half out, wind the cotton twice round the point, holding it tightly under the thumb, draw the needle out and insert it at the place where the stitch was begun, and draw it out where the next stitch is to be worked. [illustration: 156.--cravat end in raised embroidery.] * * * * * 157.--_lady's purse_. materials: russia leather; blue silk; black purse silk; blue silk soutache; fine gold braid; and gold thread. [illustration: 157.--lady's purse.] this purse is embroidered upon russia leather; an oval-shaped medallion is cut out in the centre; a piece of blue silk is gummed on under the leather so as to show within the oval; both leather and silk are then lined with calico and stretched upon a small embroidery frame. the front and back of the purse are made all of one piece, the centre of which is the bottom; after the embroidery is completed a piece of leather is added on each side to give the necessary fullness. four flowrets are worked over the blue silk, with black purse silk, in raised satin stitch, with a dot in gold thread for the centre. the stems are black and the leaflets gold. the inner border round the oval medallion is worked in gold braid, and the outer one in blue soutache. the network upon the leather is formed of threads of black purse silk, fastened at every crossing with a stitch of gold thread; the outer border round this network is formed entirely of gold braid. on the opposite side of the purse initials may be worked in black and gold, over the blue silk oval medallion. the purse is lined with brown watered silk, and mounted with a clasp of gilt steel. * * * * * 158.--_table-napkin ring_. materials: crimson cashmere; _toile cirée_; 1 reel each of white, black, green, blue, and yellow chinese silk. [illustration: 158.--table-napkin ring] stretch a strip of cashmere of a bright shade of crimson over a piece of _toile cirée_, and work the pattern over it in point russe with fine silk. the outer borders have white and black outlines, and leaflets of green silk. the stars have black and blue outlines, a yellow cross and dots. the figure between the stars is black and yellow. * * * * * 159 _and_ 160.--_knife basket_. materials: grey american cloth; red cloth; black jet beads and bugles; red worsted braid, three-quarters of an inch wide; some strong wire; a cigar-box. [illustration: 159.--knife basket.] this basket is meant for holding dessert knives. it consists of a common cigar-box nine inches and two-fifths long, five inches and four-fifths wide, and two inches and one-fifth high, covered inside and out with grey american cloth, which is ornamented with embroidery worked in appliqué. the seams are made in overcast stitch. the feet consist of four pieces of strong wire three inches and two-fifths long. these pieces of wire are first covered with wool, and then with jet beads; they are then bent into loops, and fastened on at the bottom of the box by means of holes bored into it for that purpose. the feet must be fastened before covering the inside of the box. the inside of the basket is ornamented with an embroidered pattern in appliqué, which must also be worked before covering the box. the leaves are made of red cloth, the stems and veinings of black bugles. no. 160 shows the pattern in full size; the flowers and leaves are edged with light grey purse silk, over which small stitches in black silk are fastened at regular intervals. inside the box fasten a deal board covered on both sides with american cloth, so as to divide the basket into two compartments, and fasten on to this board a handle consisting of a piece of wire seven inches long, wound round with beads. the basket is ornamented with ruches of red worsted braid; between two box pleats of the ruche a black bugle is fastened. [illustration: 160.--knife basket.] * * * * * 161.--_satin stitch embroidery_. materials: purse silk of two colours, in 4 shades of green and 4 shades of red or magenta for the flowers, gold twist. [illustration: 161.--fuchsia spray.] this branch is embroidered with purse silk of the natural colours of the flowers and leaves, or in different shades of one colour, on silk canvas. fuchsia blossoms are here designed, and should be worked in raised embroidery; the stamens to be worked in gold twist. * * * * * 162.--_acacia spray in raised satin stitch embroidery_. materials: four shades of green purse silk for the leaves; 1 skein of brown silk; 3 shades of white or gold silk for the flowers. [illustration: 162.--acacia spray.] this spray of acacia is worked in raised satin stitch embroidery; the flowers should be carefully shaded, and the veinings should be worked before the leaves are embroidered. the flowers may be worked gold colour, or imitate the white acacia blossom. * * * * * [illustration: 163.--tobacco pouch.] [illustration: 164.--tobacco pouch.] 163 _and_ 164.--_tobacco pouch_. materials: fine crimson cloth; bits of coloured and white cloth for the pattern; purse silk of various colours; white kid; brass rings; gimp cord; and silk tassels. this pouch is cut in four pieces, two of which are given in full size; the two others must be worked after the same patterns. these patterns represent the attributes of a lover of tobacco; they are cut out of cloth and worked in appliqué over crimson cloth. in no. 163 the outer chain stitch border is green. the knot from which the different articles are suspended is black, the cigar-case yellow in cloth appliqué, the cigars brown in satin stitch. the case is crossed by two rows of chain stitch in blue silk, and edged all round with button-hole stitch, also blue. the two pipes are of white cloth, edged round with yellow silk; the shade is imitated by long stitches of grey silk. the upper part of the pouch is of blue cloth, with a white silk edging and yellow dots; the under part of brown cloth with a black edging and a pattern worked in chain stitch with white; the three tassels are embroidered with black and yellow silk. in no. 164 the outer border is yellow, the knots black, the small pattern at the top is of blue cloth edged with yellow; the pipes of white cloth edged with blue and shaded with grey. the bundle of cigars is of brown cloth, shaded with black silk stitches, and fastened on with double rows of chain stitch in yellow silk. the cigar-case is of light green cloth, edged with white; the grecian pattern and dots are embroidered over it with white silk also. to make up the pouch, cut out the four pieces and join them together by seams, which are hidden under yellow soutache; cut out also and join in the same way four pieces of white kid for the lining, and fasten it on to the crimson cloth at the top only. sew small brass rings round the top, and pass a double piece of crimson silk cord through them. add silk tassels of various colours at the bottom of the pouch, and at each of its four corners. * * * * * 165.--_insertion_ materials: linen; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. [illustration: 165.--insertion.] this strong and simple insertion is useful for petticoat trimmings. it is worked in button-hole stitch; the stems in overcast stitch; the circles can be filled up with lace stitches or with wheels, or the pattern may be worked upon brussels net and the linen cut away. * * * * * 166.--_embroidery pattern for ornamenting needlebooks, workbaskets, &c._ materials: coloured purse silk; silk or cashmere; glacé silk; gold beads. this pattern is worked in french embroidery and point russe, with coloured purse silk on silk or cashmere. the thimble, cotton, and ribbon are worked in appliqué with glacé silk. the colours are chosen according to personal taste. the thimble is ornamented with small gold beads. a bead is placed in the centre of each pair of scissors to imitate the screw. [illustration: 166.--pattern for needlebook, &c.] * * * * * 167.--_embroidery pattern for ornamenting needlebooks, &c._ materials: coloured purse silk; silk or cashmere; beads. the shuttlecocks are worked in raised satin stitch; the feathers in point russe; the battledores in very thickly raised double overcast; the interior is filled with a netting worked in chain stitch or dotted stitch; the flowers are worked in satin stitch and beads; the ribbon is embroidered in appliqué, with a contrasting shade of silk ribbon. [illustration: 167.--pattern for needlebook, &c.] * * * * * 168 _and_ 169.--_travelling bag_ materials: 20 inches of java canvas; single berlin wool of 2 shades of a pretty green; 2 shades of bronze colour and white; floss silk--white, brown, and 2 shades of yellow; purse silk--black, yellow, cerise, blue, and grey; steel beads; brown silk fancy braid. [illustration: 168.--travelling bag.] this pattern is of the ordinary shape of travelling-bags, but it is very prettily worked. besides the engraving showing the bag when completed, the bouquet in the centre in full size is given. this bouquet is also worked upon the java canvas. for each petal the white wool is passed several times from one stitch of the canvas to another till the required thickness is obtained, then 1 stitch is worked at the point with white silk. the centres are filled up in point d'or with 2 shades of yellow silk. the buds are made like the petals, but with 3 stitches of white silk at the point instead of 1. the leaves are worked in 2 shades of green wool with 1 stitch of brown silk in the centre; the stems are embroidered in overcast with light brown wool. the scroll-pattern border round the bouquet is made with brown fancy braid put on with steel beads. [illustration: 169.--bouquet for travelling bag.] the remaining space outside this border is worked in coloured purse silk. the 1st outline of the squares is worked in black silk, by inserting the needle in and out of the stitches of the canvas. when you have worked all the square thus, 12 stitches one from the other, work on either side, at one stitch's distance, the outlines of yellow silk, which are worked in back stitch, two strips of the java canvas being covered by each stitch. next to the inner yellow outline comes a border worked over two strips of the canvas, in slanting stitches; this border is alternately blue in one square and grey in the other. a star is embroidered in point russe in the centre of each square; it is grey in the blue squares and blue in the grey; a steel bead is placed in the middle of each star. the small crosses between the squares are worked in cerise. the outer border of the work is composed of a piece of black soutache, edged with a tiny trefoil pattern in cerise silk. the front and back pieces of the bag are worked in the same manner. the side pieces are made of plain java canvas. the embroidered part measures 14 inches in its widest part, and is 11 inches deep. the bag is lined with light brown silk, and made up with a steel clasp. * * * * * 170.--_embroidery trimming for muslin bodices_. materials: fine muslin; fine black silk; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 24. this pattern is very easily worked, and looks very nice for a trimming. it is worked on fine white muslin; the border is worked in button-hole stitch with white cotton; these scallops are covered with loose button-hole stitch in black silk. the feather-like branches are worked likewise in black silk in herring-bone stitch. the white spots are worked in raised embroidery. the large oval openings through which a narrow ribbon velvet is drawn are worked round with button-hole stitches: [illustration: 170.--trimming for bodices.] * * * * * 171, 172, _and_ 173--_toilet cushion cover in white embroidery_. this handsome embroidery pattern is to be worked on fine muslin; if lined with coloured silk or satin it is very effective. the patterns, which are covered white dots on illustration, are worked in point d'or; the outlines of these patterns are worked in fine double overcast. the flower-leaves and wings of birds, which appear raised on illustration on account of the dark shadows, are worked separately and sewn on at the corresponding places. no. 172 shows the wing of a bird, no. 173 a rose-leaf somewhat increased in size; the former is worked entirely in button-hole stitch, or trimmed with a ruche of coloured ribbon. this pattern may also be worked on glacé silk with purse silk. [illustration: 171.--toilet cushion cover in white embroidery.] [illustration: 172.--wing of bird.] [illustration: 173.--rose leaf.] [illustration: 174.--pattern for glove box.] * * * * * 174 _and_ 175.--_glove box_. materials: 15 inches of french blue cashmere; silks of various colours. a shape in bamboo cane, painted brown and varnished. [illustration: 175.--glove box.] the ornamentation of this box is both novel and tasteful. it is embroidered in coloured silks, upon light blue cashmere. part of the embroidery pattern is given in full size. all the outlines are worked in overcast, the stitches being made rather long and slanting, and the small leaves are each composed of one stitch, as in point russe. the leaves are alternately red and yellow upon a green stem; the scalloped outline which has no leaves is red. the pine patterns are worked in satin stitch--the centre one is green, edged with red; the side ones are pink, edged with red; the small wing-like figures are black, edged with maize; the diamond, maize, edged with black, with an outer rim of maize. in the round pattern the centre is pink; the edge red, with red and yellow leaves; the 3 outer circles are successively white, green, and red; at the top the centre branch is yellow, the leaves red and yellow, the side ones are green, with the leaves pink and green. the strip of embroidered cashmere is lined with blue silk, slipped through the bamboo-canes of the mounting, and joined together at the side by a seam. the cover is lined with plain blue cashmere, upon which initials might be embroidered at discretion. the four corners are ornamented with pretty silk tassels, of colours to match with the embroidery. to fasten the box, sew on a blue ribbon to the cover, and one to the box. * * * * * 176 _and_ 177.--_hanging letter case_. materials: crimson velvet; white satin beads; gold soutache; and fine gold bouillon. no. 176 shows the letter case when completed in a reduced size, no. 177 the principal part of the embroidered pattern in full size. the letter case is composed of two parts. the larger part is 11 inches long, 8 inches wide; it is ornamented on the upper part with a pattern in gold soutache, and the word letters or lettres embroidered in gold bouillon; underneath there is a pattern embroidered in oval white satin beads, edged round with fine white chenille; the scroll pattern is embroidered in gold bouillon. the second part is placed over the lower part of the first, and forms the pocket which contains the letters. the centre flower is composed of 11 oval beads, edged round with white chenille; another white bead is placed in the centre, and edged with gold bouillon. the other flowers are also composed of white satin beads, edged with gold bouillon. [illustration: 176.--hanging letter case.] [illustration: 177.--pattern for embroidered letter case.] * * * * * 178.--_embroidered edging_. materials: muslin; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 24 [illustration: 178.--embroidered edging.] this edging is worked in broderie anglaise or overcast stitch; the edge in scallop button-hole stitch; the ovals and dots in raised satin stitch. the stems are worked in slanting overcast stitch (no. 122, _embroidery instructions_). * * * * * 179.--_border in oriental embroidery_. materials: purse silk of the following shades:--dark red, bright red, 2 shades of green, 2 of blue, 2 of yellow violet. [illustration: 179.--border in oriental embroidery.] the four ovals placed together are worked of four contrasting colours. these ovals are composed of two rows of chain stitch. the outer row of the first oval is dark red, and the inner one bright red. following the same arrangement, the second oval is of two shades of green; the third of two shades of blue; and the fourth of two shades of yellow. the knotted stitch in the centre is violet. the dots outside the ovals are worked in satin stitch, and are alternately red, yellow, violet, and blue. the stems are long stitches of black silk. the arabesque patterns between those formed of four ovals are worked in chain stitch with silk of two shades of brown. the colours of the ovals may be varied as much as you please, but the brown shades of the arabesque patterns should remain the same for the whole of the border. * * * * * 180 _and_ 181.--_embroidery stars_. materials: fine linen; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 40. these stars are designed for medallions, to be worked on linen collars and cuffs. no. 180 is worked in successive rows of back-stitching, round an open wheel; ladder stitch (see no. 81, _embroidery instructions_) is worked round this, and a raised scallop in button-hole stitch forms the edge. [illustration: 180.--embroidery star.] * * * * * [illustration: 181.--embroidery star.] no. 181 is worked in raised satin stitch; the interior of the star is filled with lace wheels. * * * * * 182 _and_ 183.--_key bag_. materials: grey kid; grey silk; steel-coloured glacé silk; purse silk of 5 shades of blue-green, 4 shades of brown, and silver-grey, scarlet, and white; grey silk cord; grey glacé silk ribbon. this bag is made of grey kid, and lined with grey silk. the embroidery imitates on one side a key formed of poppies, leaves, and stems, in the upper part of which sits an owl, "the [illustration: 182.--key bag.] [illustration: 183.--key bag.] bird of night." the poppies are worked with blue-green purse silk in 5 shades; the plumage of the owl is worked with brown silk of 4 shades in satin stitch, the colours blending one into the other, as can be clearly seen in illustration no. 182. the eyes of the owl are embroidered in scarlet and white silk. illustration no. 183 shows the other side of the bag, which is ornamented with steel-coloured silk appliqué figures, in the form of a gothic lock. they are edged with fine grey silk cord. the screws of the lock are imitated in satin stitch embroidery with silver-grey silk. after having lined each part, join the two halves of the bag with a border of grey glacé silk ribbon, which must, of course, continue round the revers. the bag is fastened by means of a loop and steel button. * * * * * 184 _and_ 185--_embroidery patterns for trimming cravats, bodices, morning caps, &c._ [illustration: 184--embroidery pattern for cravats, &c.] materials: muslin or cambric; messrs. walter evans and co.'s no. 24 for lingerie, no. 12 for couvrettes. these patterns, worked on muslin or cambric, are suitable for trimming various articles of lingerie; joined on to other squares they make pretty covers. they can also be embroidered with coloured silk, wool, or thread, on cloth, rep, or cashmere, for trimming couvrettes and toilet pincushions. the patterns should be embroidered in satin stitch and edged with chain stitch; they can also be worked in button-hole stitch. when the pattern is worked on woollen material this material must be cut away inside the leaves and spots. [illustration: 185.--embroidery pattern for cravats, &c.] * * * * * 186 _and_ 187.--_pen-wiper in cloth appliqué_. materials: 4 circles of black cloth; 1 large white, 4 small white, and 4 red circles of cloth; 4 white and 4 red stars of cloth; small black beads; gold and black purse silk; small ivory handle or figure. this pretty little pen-wiper is covered with small circles of cloth. no. 187 is one of these circles seen in full size. there are 4 white and 4 red ones, and they are pinked out round the edge. in the centre of each red circle place a white, and in the centre of each white circle a red star, and work a cross over it with small round black beads. the border, in herring-bone stitch, is worked with gold-coloured purse silk on the red, and with black on the white cloth. the centre of the pen-wiper is covered with a circle of white cloth larger than the side ones, worked in point russe and point mexico in black silk. when all the circles are prepared, sew them neatly on to a round piece of red cloth, placing alternately 1 white and 1 red, so as to overlap one another, and between each a circle of black cloth, also pinked out round the edge. the work is then fastened upon a round of cardboard lined with black glazed calico, and a [illustration: 186.--pen-wiper in embroidery.] small handle of carved ivory, or an ivory figure, is fixed in the centre. the circles of black cloth are used to wipe the pens. [illustration: 187.--full-sized circle for pen-wiper.] * * * * * 188.--_insertion_. materials: fine muslin; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 30. [illustration: 188.--insertion.] the flowers of this insertion are embroidered in raised satin stitch round an open eyelet hole, worked in overcast stitch the stars are worked in point russe stitch; the four eyelet holes which surround each flower, in overcast stitch; and the edge is finished with a row of hem-stitching on each side. * * * * * 189.--_insertion_. materials: fine muslin; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 24. this insertion is entirely embroidered in raised satin stitch; the dots and stems should be worked first, and the leaves afterwards. it is edged on both sides with a row of hem-stitching. [illustration: 189.--insertion.] * * * * * 190.--_cigar case_. materials: russia leather; fine silk cord; black purse silk; gold thread. the material of this cigar case should be finely-embossed light brown russia leather; the centre pattern to be embroidered in well-raised satin stitch with black purse silk. all the lighter outlines shown in the illustration are worked in gold thread. the border to be worked in fine silk cord of the same colour as the leather, with a network of black purse silk, stitched with gold at all the crossings. on the opposite side of the cigar case [illustration: 190--cigar case.] initials may be worked. the lining of light brown watered silk, or fine leather, and the mountings gilt or steel. * * * * * 191.--_wicker waste paper basket_. materials: basket and stand; coloured berlin wools; cloth fringe; and glazed calico. [illustration: 191.--waste paper basket.] the basket may be of any size, but of the shape of the pattern. it rests upon two brass hooks fastened upon a stand. this stand can be made by any joiner, and should match the furniture of the room. the trimming consists of an embroidered border, lined with glazed calico, and put on round the edge; the lower part of the border is trimmed with a woollen fringe. the shades selected should correspond with the prevailing colour of the room. * * * * * [illustration: 192.--insertion.] 192.--_insertion_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. the edge of this insertion is worked in raised button-hole stitch, and embroidered in sharply-pointed scallops; the dotted line is worked in raised satin stitch, as are also the flowers which compose the centre wreath; the eyelet holes are worked in overcast stitch. * * * * * [illustration: 193.--embroidered linen collar.] 193 _and_ 194.--_embroidered linen collars_. materials: double linen; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 40. these patterns are to be worked on linen taken double. no. 194 is worked in button-hole, satin, and knotted stitch (see nos. 81, 82, 76, and 73 of _embroidery instructions_), and point d'or with white cotton, and point russe with black silk. no. 193 is worked entirely with white cotton in button-hole, satin, knotted ladder, and overcast stitch. (see nos. 82, 76, 73, 81, and 68 of _embroidery instructions_.) [illustration: 194.--embroidered linen collar.] * * * * * [illustration: 195--what-not in the shape of a hammock.] 195 _and_ 196.--_what-not_. materials: fine canvas; 3 shades of violet floss silk; 4 shades of green floss silk; sea-green wool, or floss silk; 1 skein of yellow floss silk; green chenille; cord and tassels. [illustration: 196.--pattern for what-not (full size).] this small what-not or jewel-stand is very elegant. it is meant to place upon the toilet-table. no. 195 shows the hammock when completed, no. 196 one-half of the embroidery pattern in full size; it is worked upon fine canvas. the violets are in floss silk of three shades of violet, with a raised spot worked in yellow silk in the centre, the leaves are worked in berlin wool of various shades of green, and the stems in overcast of a light green shade. the pattern is grounded in tent stitch with sea-green silk. the hammock is composed of two sides and an under-piece cut out in cardboard, covered with the embroidered canvas outside, lined and quilted with plain green silk inside. it is edged round the top with green chenille. the mounting is composed of bamboo-canes; the hammock is fastened on to it with green silk cord, finished off with tassels. * * * * * 197.--_embroidered handkerchief_. materials: grass lawn or french cambric; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 40. this embroidery pattern is worked between the borders of a handkerchief, which may be either of french cambric or grass lawn. the design is simple, but effective, and very easy to work. if worked on fine french cambric, the handkerchief should be lightly tacked upon _toile cirée_. the rows of raised dots should be worked first, and then the graceful branches of pointed leaves in satin stitch. the plain round dots might be worked in bright red marking cotton in either of the patterns. to produce a good effect, rather fine cotton must be selected, and no. 40 will be found very effective on either lawn or cambric. for mourning wear, this pattern should be embroidered with black filoselle, or the leaves can be worked in white cotton, and the dots in filoselle. [illustration: 197.--handkerchief border.] * * * * * 198 _and_ 199.--_two medallions for a purse in embroidery_. materials: light brown russia leather; black, scarlet, and gold silk; steel or gold clasp. these medallions are intended to ornament a small purse, but may be employed on a variety of articles. [illustration: 198.--medallion for a purse in embroidery.] [illustration: 199.--medallion for a purse in embroidery.] the raised spots of no. 198 should be worked in black silk, in satin stitch, the branched sprays in point russe in scarlet and gold, the four largest being in scarlet and the intermediate sprays in gold silk. medallion no. 199 is worked entirely in point russe, and may be embroidered in one colour, or in alternate branches of scarlet and gold, or scarlet and black. * * * * * 200.--_work-bag_. materials: drab cloth; small pieces of cloth of different colours; embroidery silk of different colours; scarlet satin; red silk braid; red cord; cardboard; cotton wool; and a strap of light-coloured leather. [illustration: 200.--work bag.] this work-bag is made in the shape of a rolled-up plaid. the outside consists of drab cloth, trimmed with appliqué embroidery. the inside of the bag is slightly wadded and lined with red satin, which is quilted in diamonds. the seams are covered with red braid, and a leather strap completes the whole. cut out a good pattern in paper, and then cut the satin and wadding and the drab cloth which forms the outside. after having traced the pattern on the cloth, work it with small pieces of coloured cloth in appliqué embroidery. the different figures are sewn over the centre partly in point russe, partly in button-hole stitches, with embroidery silk. the stems in the middle are worked with silk in chain stitches. the colours may be chosen according to taste. cut a pattern in cardboard, and fasten the drab cloth on it. the edge must be bordered with red satin, and the satin lining must be sewed in. the ends of the bag are likewise cut out of cardboard; the inside is wadded and lined with red satin; the outside worked in appliqué embroidery like the rest of the bag. all the seams are covered with red silk cord. the straps are fastened with a few stitches, as seen in the illustration. * * * * * 201 _to_ 203.--_pattern for braces_. materials: java canvas; black silk; red wool; calico. [illustration: 201.--pattern for braces (full size).] these braces are made of java canvas lined with calico ornamented with embroidery in black silk and red wool, and edged on either side with loose button-hole stitch and crochet vandykes in red wool. illustration 201 shows part of the embroidered braces, full size. work first the embroidery of the braces, then line them with calico; work loose button-hole stitch and crochet vandykes on all the edges of the cross bands as well as at the top and bottom of these strips, and sew on the tabs for the braces between the lining and the canvas. the latter are then edged with button-hole stitch and crochet-vandykes. the vandykes are worked as follow--in one row: 1 double in 1 button-hole stitch, * 1 purl (3 chain, 1 double in the 1st), missing the next button-hole stitch under it; 1 double in the following button-hole stitch, repeat from *. the tabs are made of tape worked round with red button-hole stitch, with button-holes worked with red cotton. no. 203 shows another [illustration: 102.--embroidered braces.] way of working these braces on fine ribbed piqué. work any berlin wool work pattern in the common cross stitch over the ribs of the piqué. for the vandyke border work in every other button-hole stitch, 2 double divided by 3 chain stitches. [illustration: 203.--pattern for braces (full size).] * * * * * 204.--_embroidery border for a reading-desk_. materials: white silk rep; black velvet, rep, or cloth; gold and silver brocade; gold and silver braid; silk cord and thread. this pattern is embroidered on white silk rep with silver and gold thread, and sewn on over a black velvet, rep, or cloth centre. the dark patterns are worked in appliqué with black velvet, the two other shades in gold and silver brocade. the embroidery is worked in satin stitch with gold and silver braid, silk and cord of the same material. the border can also be worked upon the material for the centre if it is not intended to contrast with it. the pattern can also be worked entirely in silk with satin stitch. the size of the border may, of course, be increased if desired, but the third pattern in the darkest shade must, in any case, form the centre of it. [illustration: 204.--embroidery border for a reading desk.] * * * * * [illustration: 205.--lappet or sash end in venetian embroidery.] 205.--_lappet or sash end in venetian embroidery._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 6 and no. 12; net and muslin. the pattern must first be traced on muslin, which is then tacked over net. the outlines are worked in button-hole stitch, and the veinings are sewn over, using the coarse cotton for tracing; the muslin is then cut away all round the pattern. * * * * * 206.--_venetian border._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 12 and no. 16; net and muslin. [illustration: 206.--venetian border.] this design is elegant and effective, without there being a great deal of work in it. it is useful for tuckers for evening dresses or handkerchief borders. the muslin is laid over the net, sewn neatly over, and then cut away between the pattern, leaving the net for the ground work. [illustration: 207.--lace insertion.] * * * * * _207.--lace insertion._ materials: fine black sewing silk; black brussels net. this lace insertion is first outlined in running stitch upon the net; the leaves are then darned across the net holes; the stems are worked in overcast stitch; the dots are embroidered by darning across the circle previously outlined; the lace stitches in the centre are formed by gently enlarging the net holes with a fine stiletto, and then sewn lightly round, the remaining holes being filled with lace stitches consisting of fine button-hole stitches, very evenly worked over the entire space surrounding the open holes. to be effective the very finest black silk should be employed. this pattern may be worked in appliqué by placing muslin over net, sewing all the outlines in fine overcast stitch, and when finished, carefully cutting away the muslin. * * * * * 208 _and_ 209.--_slipper on java canvas._ materials: light brown java canvas; green silk; green filoselle and purse silk; green silk ribbon three-fifths of an inch wide; some wadding; 2 cork soles. [illustration: 208.--slipper on java canvas.] this slipper is very pretty, and easy to work. it is made of light brown java canvas, and embroidered in point russe with green filoselle. it is lined with green silk, and slightly quilted. the soles are of cork. the slipper is trimmed all round with a ruche of green silk ribbon three-fifths of an inch wide, pleated in double box pleats. the heel is turned down inside. no. 209 shows the pattern of the point russe stitch nearly full size. [illustration: 209.--point russe stitch for slipper (no. 208)] * * * * * 210 _and_ 211.--_medallions in point russe_. materials: coloured filoselle, cloth, velvet, cashmere, or silk. these medallions can be alternated for ornamenting small covers, cushions, borders, &c. they are worked with coloured filoselle in point russe, herring-bone stitch, coral stitch, and knotted stitch, on cloth, velvet, cashmere, or silk. the middle oval of both medallions contrasts with the colour of the ground, and must therefore be worked in appliqué on the latter with herring-bone stitch, before working the outer border. the wreath on no. 211 is worked in coral stitch; the knots, which imitate small blossoms, in knotted stitch. the choice of colours is left to the personal taste of the worker. [illustration: 210.--medallion in point russe.] [illustration: 211.--medallion in point russe.] * * * * * 212.--_butterfly for handkerchief corner_. materials: french lawn or cambric; fine black silk. this butterfly is worked in the finest black silk procurable, in order more closely to imitate etching. it is worked in point russe and scallop stitch; the dark shaded scallops are worked in button-hole scallop stitch, the stitches being taken very closely together, but not raised by the usual method of placing chain stitches beneath the button-hole stitches. the outlines and flowers are worked in point russe, the dot in knotted stitch (see no. 73, _embroidery instructions_.) [illustration: 212.--butterfly for handkerchief corner.] the initials are embroidered in raised slanting overcast stitch, and should be worked with great regularity. * * * * * 213 _to_ 215.--_pattern for a couvrette in appliqué_. (_see pages 576-7_.) materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton nos. 24 and 30; cambric muslin; brussels net; flesh-coloured silk; sewing silk of the same shade; 1 skein of a darker shade; blue silk; brown silk; gold thread. this style of work is most effective for couvrettes or bed covers. it is worked in cambric muslin and silk, over brussels net. the arabesque patterns are worked in cambric muslin, the outlines are embroidered in overcast, and the material is cut away all round. the medallions are made of blue silk; the figures upon them are cut out of flesh-coloured silk, and are gummed first upon tissue-paper, then upon the blue silk; the figures are further fastened upon the medallions in overcast stitch with fine silk of a rather darker shade of flesh-colour. the scarfs are cut out of bright rose-coloured silk; the quiver and arrows and all the other attributes are worked in gold thread; the hair in fine brown silk. the edge of the blue silk medallions is worked round in button-hole stitch, but so as to be easily unripped when the couvrette has to be cleaned. a border in open ladder stitch is worked round them (see no. 81, _embroidery instructions_). the openings in the centre pattern are also filled in with lace stitches. * * * * * crochet instructions. [illustration: a crochet-needle] cotton or thread, wool or silk, with a crochet-needle, are the materials required for working crochet. the needle, whether it be steel or bone, must be smoothly polished. the long wooden and bone crochet-needles are used for wool; for cotton and silk work short steel needles screwed into a bone handle are best. the beauty of the crochet-work depends upon the regularity of the stitches, as is the case with every other style of needlework. the stitches must be elastic, but if too loose they look as bad as if too tight. the size of the needle and that of the cotton or wool must correspond; work only with the point of the needle, and never move the stitch up and down the needle. the cotton with which you work must be of the very best quality; for borders, insertions, rosettes, imitation of guipure, use evans's crochet cotton; for couvrettes, counterpanes, covers, &c., use knitting-cotton. all crochet-work patterns are begun on a foundation chain; there are three kinds of foundation chains--the plain foundation, the double foundation, and the purl foundation chain. the plain foundation chain consists of chain stitches. [illustration: 216.--plain foundation chain.] illustration 216.--form a loop with the cotton or other material with which you work, take it on the needle, and hold the cotton as for knitting on the forefinger and other fingers of the left hand. the crochet-needle is held in the right hand between the thumb and forefinger, as you hold a pen in writing; hold the end of the cotton of the loop between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, wind the cotton once round the needle by drawing the needle underneath the cotton from left to right, catch the cotton with the hook of the needle and draw it as a loop through the loop already on the needle, which is cast off the needle by this means and forms one chain stitch. the drawing the cotton through the loop is repeated until the foundation chain has acquired sufficient length. when enough chain stitches have been made, take the foundation chain between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, so that these fingers are always close to and under the hook of the needle. each stitch must be loose enough to let the hook of the needle pass easily through. all foundation chains are begun with a loop. [illustration: 217.--double foundation chain.] illustration 217 (_the double foundation chain_).--crochet 2 chain stitches, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st chain stitch, throw the cotton forward, draw it out as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle and draw it through the two loops on the needle, * draw the cotton as a loop through the left side of the last stitch (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it through both loops on the needle. repeat from * till the foundation chain is long enough. [illustration: 218.--purl foundation chain.] illustration 218 (_purl foundation chain_).--* crochet 4 chain stitch, then 1 treble stitch--that is, wind the cotton round the needle, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st of the 4 chain stitches, wind the cotton round the needle, draw it through the stitch, wind the cotton again round the needle, and at the same time draw the cotton through the last loop and through the stitch formed by winding the cotton round the needle. wind the cotton once more round the needle, and draw it through the 2 remaining loops on the needle. the 4 chain stitches form a kind of scallop or purl. repeat from *. the following crochet stitches require foundation chains like nos. 216 and 217; they are all worked in separate rows excepting the two nos. 222 and 234. make a loop at the beginning of every row, as has been described (no. 216), and take it on the needle. [illustration: 219.--slip stitch.] illustration 219 (_slip stitch_).--draw the needle through the back part of a foundation chain stitch, or in the course of the work through the back part of a stitch of the preceding row, wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it through the stitch and loop on the needle. the illustration shows a number of slip stitches, the last of which is left quite loose; the arrow marks the place where the needle is to be inserted for the next stitch. [illustration: 220.--double stitch.] illustration 220 (_double stitch_).--these are worked nearly like the preceding ones. draw the cotton as a loop through the back part of a stitch, wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it through the two loops on the needle. [illustration: 221.--double stitch.] illustration 221.--these double stitches are worked nearly like the preceding ones; the 1st row is worked like that of no. 220; in the following ones insert the needle into the two upper sides of a stitch of the preceding row. [illustration: 222.--ribbed stitch.] illustration 222 (_the ribbed stitch_).--this stitch is worked backwards and forwards--that is, the right and wrong sides are worked together, which forms the raised ribs. insert the needle always into the back part of every stitch. work 1 chain stitch at the end of every row, which is not worked, however, in the following row. [illustration: 223.--slanting stitch.] illustration 223 (_slanting stitch, double stitch_).--this stitch is worked like that described in no. 220; the cotton is not wound round the needle the first time in the usual manner, but the needle is placed in the direction of the arrow, above the cotton. draw the cotton through as a loop; the stitch is finished like the common double stitch. [illustration: 224.--cross stitch.] illustration 224 (_cross stitch_).--this stitch is worked like no. 223 on a foundation like no. 217, only insert the needle through the two upper sides of a stitch. [illustration 225:--long double stitch.] illustration 225 (_long double_).--for this stitch wind the cotton round the needle, insert it into the back part of a stitch, draw the cotton out as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle, and cast off together the two loops and the loop formed by winding the cotton round the needle. [illustration 226.--treble stitch.] illustration 226 (_treble stitch_).--these stitches are worked as has been described for the purl foundation chain, no. 218. the treble stitches are worked on a foundation chain or in the stitches of the preceding row. illustration 227 (_long treble_).--these are worked like treble stitches, only the cotton is wound twice round the needle; the double long treble (illustration 228) is worked by winding the cotton three times round the needle. the loops formed by winding the cotton round the needle are cast off one by one with one of the loops on the needle. the two loops that remain at the end are cast off together after winding the cotton round the needle. [illustration: 227.--long treble stitch.] [illustration: 228.--double long treble stitch.] [illustration: 229.--cross treble stitch.] [illustration: 230.--cross treble stitch.] illustration 229-231 (_cross treble_).--illustration 229 shows this stitch completed; illustrations 230 and 231 show them in the course of the work. wind the cotton twice round the needle as for a long treble, insert the needle into the stitch in which the first half of the cross treble is to be worked, wind the cotton round the needle, draw the cotton through as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle and cast off together with the same the loop on the needle and the loop formed by throwing the cotton forward; you have now 3 loops left on the needle, 1 of which has been formed by winding the cotton round the needle; missing these, wind the cotton again round the needle, miss the 2 next stitches of the foundation chain, and draw a loop through the third stitch. you have now 5 loops on the needle. always cast off 2 loops at a time till only 1 loop remains on the needle. work 2 chain stitches (if you wish to have the stitches more or less) slanting, work 1, 2, or 3 chain stitches, missing, of course, the same number of foundation chain, work 1 treble stitch, inserting the needle, as shown by the arrow on no. 231, into the 2 cross chain of the completed treble stitch. [illustration: 231.--cross treble stitch.] [illustration: 232.--raised spots.] illustration 232 (_raised spots_).--the grounding on which these spots are worked consists of double crochet. they are worked across 3 rows of the ground, and formed of treble stitches, the spots of one row being placed between those of the preceding. work first 2 rows of double stitch, in the 3rd row work first 2 double stitches and then 1 spot as follows:--1 treble, inserting the needle into both sides of 1 stitch of the first row (the preceding row is missed); the treble stitch is only completed so far that 2 loops remain on the needle; then work 2 treble stitches in the same stitch as the first, which are also only completed as far as the first treble stitch, so that after the 2nd treble there remain 3 loops and after the 3rd 4 loops on the needle (see illustration). the 4 loops are cast off together by winding the cotton once more round the needle and drawing it through. miss under the spot the next double stitch of the preceding row; the spots are repeated at intervals of 5 stitches and in every other row. [illustration: 233.--hollow spots.] illustration 233 (_hollow spots_).--the ground is worked in double crochet (illustration 220). these spots, which appear raised, consist of 5 treble stitches; they are worked in every other row at intervals of 5 stitches. for working them leave 1 loop on the needle, insert the needle between the 2 long sides of the last-worked double stitch, and work 5 treble stitches, always inserting the needle into the front part of 1 stitch of the preceding row. the first 4 treble are completed entirely without taking up the loop which was on the needle; with the fifth treble stitch only the 3 loops are cast off together by winding the cotton round the needle. miss 1 stitch of the preceding row under the spot. [illustration: 234.--open-work spots.] illustration 234 (_open-work spots_).--these spots are treble stitches divided by 2 chain; miss 2 stitches under the latter; for the rest, they are worked like the raised spots (illustration 232). [illustration: 235.--raised treble stitch.] illustration 235 (_raised treble stitch_).--these stitches are long treble worked on a ribbed ground (illustration 222), and are thrown across 3 rows of the same. the raised treble are always worked on the same side of the work and in the long side of the corresponding stitch of the last row but two. after every row with treble stitch comes a row in ribbed stitch. at the beginning work 3 rows of ribbed stitch; the treble stitches begin only in the 4th row. [illustration: 236.--purl stitch.] illustration 236 (_purl stitch_).--these purl stitches imitate a lace edging perfectly well. work 1 double, draw out the loop to a certain length (this forms the purl), take the needle out of it, insert it in the front part of the last stitch which has been worked (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw it through as a loop; 1 double, 1 purl, and so on. [illustration: 237.--purl stitch.] illustration 237 (_purl stitch turned upwards_).--work 1 treble, then 7 chain stitch. insert the needle into the 2nd of the 7 chain stitch downwards, so that the chain stitches form a scallop upwards (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw the cotton through; work 1 chain stitch and 1 treble in the next stitch but 3, missing 3 stitches under it. [illustration: 238.--purl stitch.] illustration 238 (_purl stitch turned downwards_).--the chain stitches form a scallop turned downwards. after having worked the 7 chain stitches take the needle out of the loop, insert it underneath the upper chain of the 2nd chain stitch, from right to left, and draw it through the loop in the direction of the arrow. wind the cotton round the needle and cast all the loops off together. it is evident that the purl stitches may be worked at larger or smaller distances. * * * * * crochet patterns. 239.--_small crochet basket_. materials: 2 balls of closely-covered white and silver, and 1 ball of pink and silver twine; a crochet needle. [illustration: 239.--small crochet basket.] for the bottom: make a chain of 4 stitches and unite it, work 3 long, 3 chain, and repeat three times more. 2nd round: work 3 long into the 1st 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long into the next 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long into the same place, make 3 chain, and repeat. 3rd round: 3 long, 3 chain, working twice into the 3 chain of last round. 4th round: 3 long, 3 chain, increasing in every other 3rd chain by working twice into it. 5th round: increasing in every 3rd chain, repeat. for the leaves: make a chain of 32 stitches, then work a row of 1 long stitch and 1 chain stitch with the silver twine. 2nd round: work 1 long stitch into each chain stitch in 1st row, make 1 chain stitch, repeat. (at the point, make 4 long, with a chain stitch between each), repeat on the other side of the chain, 1 long stitch and 1 chain stitch alternately. 3rd round: with pink: work over a wire in double crochet 1 stitch into each loop, work 15 more leaves in the same way, join each leaf half way, then sew it to the centre, work a row of double crochet 1 yard in length, and twist it for the handle. this should also be crocheted over wire. * * * * * 240 to 243.--_couvrette in crochet_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s boar's head cotton no. 10, and steel crochet needle. this very pretty pattern is composed of separate circles representing dahlias in raised work upon an open centre. no. 242 shows one of these large circles in full size, no. 241 one of the small circles placed in the spaces between the larger ones, no. 243 part of the border, and no. 240 the couvrette when completed, but in reduced size. for each large circle make a chain of 20 stitches, and join it into a circle. 1st round: 30 stitches of double crochet over the circle of chain stitches. 2nd round: 36 stitches of double crochet. 3rd round: 1 double, 5 chain, miss 1. 4th round: [illustration: 240.--couvrette in crochet.] the same as the preceding--the 1 double always on the 3rd chain. 5th round: close double crochet; 3 stitches in 1 in the centre stitch of each loop. 6th to 12th round: the same as the 5th, close double crochet, increasing in the centre of each small scallop, which forms the 18 raised petals of the dahlia. 13th round: here begins the open-work border round the dahlia. work 1 double between 2 petals, taking together the 2 centre stitches, 1 double in the next, 5 chain. there will be 18 loops of 5 chain in the round. 14th to 17th round: 1 double in centre of each loop, 5 chain between. 18th round: 1 double in centre of 1st loop, 4 chain, 1 treble in next loop; in the top of this treble stitch work 3 double, with 3 chain between each; make 4 chain. repeat the same all round, and the large circle is completed. six of these are required. [illustration: 241.--showing one of the small circles full size of no. 240.] for each small circle make a chain of 10 stitches, and join it into a round. 1st round: 16 stitches of close double crochet. 2nd round: 1 treble, 3 chain, miss 1, 8 times. 3rd round: 9 treble over each loop of chain, 1 double between. this completes 1 of the 6 small circles placed round the large ones in the centre of the couvrette. the 6 that are placed between the 5 other large circles have 1 more round, which is worked as follows:--1 treble in the centre of 1 scallop in the top of this treble stitch, 3 double, with 3 chain between each, 6 chain. repeat the same all round. [illustration: 242.--showing one of the large circles full size of no. 240.] when all the circles are completed, join them together, as seen in illustration 217, and work the border as follows:-1st round: 1 treble in one of the trefoil branches of a small circle, 8 chain, 1 treble in next trefoil, 8 chain, 1 treble in 3rd trefoil, 8 chain, 1 long treble in 4th trefoil, 10 chain, 1 long treble in 1 trefoil of a large circle, 1 treble in each of the 4 next trefoils of the large circle, 8 chain between each 8 chain, 1 long treble in the last trefoil of the large circle,10 chain. repeat all round. 2nd round: 2 treble, with 1 chain between, in first stitch of last round, * 4 chain, miss 5, 2 treble with 1 chain between next stitch. repeat from *. 3rd and 4th rounds: the same as the 2nd. the 2 treble always in 1 chain. 5th round: in each 1 chain, 4 treble, with 1 chain between the 2nd and 3rd, 4 chain after the 4 treble. the same all round. 6th round: the same as the 5th. 7th round: 1 treble in 1 chain, 1 trefoil in the top of the treble, 6 chain. repeat the same all round, which completes the couvrette. [illustration: 243.--border for couvrette.] * * * * * 244.--_star in crochet_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s crochet cotton no. 80, or with no. 8 or 10 for couvrettes. a number of these stars joined together will make very pretty strips of insertion. for this purpose they should be worked with fine cotton. they may also be used for trimming collars, cuffs, and cravats, the material being cut away underneath. if worked with crochet cotton no. 8 or 10, they will make nice couvrettes, bed-quilts, &c. [illustration: 244.--star in crochet.] the star is begun by the outer circle. make a chain of 70 stitches, and join it into a circle. * make 10 chain, miss 3, work 1 extra long treble, 1 treble, and 1 double, inserting the needle under the chain, then 1 double worked as usual, 1 long double, 2 extra long double, miss 4, and work 1 double, inserting the needle _under_ the 5th. repeat 13 times from * fasten off, and for the centre of the star work as follows:-1st round: * 10 chain, turn, miss 1 and work 1 double in the next 7 chain, 1 double in the 1st of the 10 chain, thus forming 1 loop. repeat from * 5 times more. 2nd round: 12 double on the first loop of chain of the first branch, 1 double in the centre of the branch, 2 chain; slip the stitch which is upon the needle in one of the stitches of the foundation chain of the outer circle, work 1 double in the first of the 2 chain last made, then 12 double in the remaining loop of chain of the branch, and 1 double at the bottom of the branch. repeat 5 times more from *. the centre star must be joined on to the outer circle at regular distances. * * * * * 245.--_crochet silk bag over rings_. materials: 2 skeins each of black, blue, rose, and drab coarse purse twist; 8 skeins of the spangled silk for the top part of the bag and strings; the tassel for the bottom is made of the silks that are left; rings. work over a ring in double crochet, with black, 48 stitches and fasten off; this is for the centre ring. then with the rose colour take a ring and work 24 stitches in double crochet as before, take a second ring, and work 24 double crochet over it without cutting off the silk, work over 4 more rings in the same manner, then work on the other side of the rings to correspond, join the first and last ring together, and sew in the centre ring; this completes the 1st circle. work 12 more rounds in the same way, 3 rose colour, with drab centre, 3 blue with black, 3 drab with rose centre, 3 black with blue, join 6 circles of the alternate colours to the 1st circle, 1 to each ring, then sew the second ring to the corresponding one of the next circle, till the 6 are united; join the other 6 circles in the following manner: join one ring to the second from the one that was sewed to the 1st circle, join the next ring to the corresponding one of the next circle (which will be the one opposite to the one sewed in the 1st circle), and repeat, joining the other 5 in the same way. [illustration: 245.--crochet silk bag.] for the small diamond make a chain of 5 stitches and unite it, work 4 long stitches into the circle, make 2 chain, work 1 single stitch to the centre of the ring missed in joining the last circle, make 2 chain, work 4 long into the circle, make 2 chain, and work a stitch of single crochet to the centre of the next ring, make 2 chain, work 4 long into the same place, make 5 chain, work 4 long into the same place, make 2 chain, and work a stitch of single crochet to the next ring, make 2 chain, and join it to the first of the long stitches; this completes the diamonds; work 5 more, joining them in the same way, then work over 12 rings, and join one on each side of every diamond; this completes the lower part of the bag. for the top part of the bag work 3 stitches of double crochet to the centre of each ring, make 5 chain, and repeat. 1st round: work 1 long stitch, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat. work 12 more rounds in the same way, working the long stitch into the chain stitch of last row. run some cord in the top of the bag to match one of the colours used, and make the tassel for the bottom from the silk that is remaining after working the crochet. * * * * * 246.--_crochet sovereign purse._ materials: 1 skein of black purse silk: 1 skein of coloured ditto; a few steel beads; and a steel clasp. the open portion of this purse is worked in coloured, and the raised rose and outer border in black, silk, the latter being dotted with steel beads. a few rows of plain double crochet are worked, increasing where necessary, to make the work lie flat; then 4 rows of loops of chain in coloured silk, and then 3 rows of thick double crochet, threading the beads first on the silk, and pushing them up to the stitches when required. [illustration: 446.--crochet sovereign purse.] the black silk must now be joined on to the centre, and the little raised piece worked in treble crochet, inserting the hook on the _upper_ side of the stitches. three rounds of treble are executed, and when both sides of the purse are finished they should be joined together (except where the clasp is put on) by a row of open treble, ornamented with beads. this purse is so easy to make, that it might be worked without the least difficulty from the illustration. * * * * * 247.--_stars in crochet_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s crochet cotton no. 8 or 20. this pattern can be used for a couvrette or pincushion cover, according to the size of the cotton with which it is worked. each star is begun in the centre by a chain of 8 stitches. in the 1st stitch work 1 treble, * 4 chain, 1 treble in this same 1st stitch, repeat from * 3 times more, 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th of the 8 chain. you have thus formed 8 rays, joined to the 1st stitch. now work (without cutting the cotton) the branches, which are begun from the centre. 1st branch.--1st round: 18 chain, 1 treble in the 13th, so as to form a purl with the last 5, 2 chain, 3 treble with 2 chain between, missing 2 stitches under the 2 chain, 2 chain, 1 slip stitch in the last of the 18 chain. 2nd round: 2 double over the 1st 2 chain, 2 double with 1 purl between over the next 2 chain, 2 double over the next 2 chain, 1 purl, 7 double over the next 5 chain; then, on the other side of the branch, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 2 double with 1 purl between, 2 double on the last 2 chain of the branch, 1 slip stitch in the stitch from which the leaf was begun, 5 double over the 4 chain of the circle. here begins the second branch. 1st round of the 2nd leaf: 22 chain, 1 double in the last so as to form a circle. [illustration: 247.--stars in crochet.] 2nd round: 1 double in each of the 10 first chain, in the next stitch work 1 double, 1 chain, 1 double to form the point, 1 double in each of the 10 remaining stitches, 1 slip stitch in the 1st stitch of the 1st round. 3rd round: 3 double, 1 purl, repeat from * twice more, then work in double crochet as far as the point, work 2 double with 1 chain between, then work the 2nd half of the branch the same as the 1st. before beginning the next leaf, work 5 double on the chain stitches of the circle; work 6 branches, repeating alternately the 2 above explained; cut the cotton and fasten it on again to the point of one of the branches, in order to join them together by the two following rounds:-1st round: 1 double in the point of one of the leaves, * 4 chain, 1 purl under the chain; thus make 5 chain, turn the chain with the crochet to the right, insert the needle downwards in the first chain, and make a slip stitch, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the point of the next leaf, repeat from * five times more. 2nd round: * 4 double over the nearest 4 chain; 1 purl as usual--that is, above the chain--4 double over the next 4 chain. now work 1 trefoil (thus: 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the 1 double coming just before the 3 purl). 1 double on each of the next 4 chain of last round, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 trefoil, repeat five times from *. join the stars by a few stitches, as seen in the illustration. * * * * * 248.--_crochet purse over rings._ materials: 67 rings; 2 skeins each of cerise and black, and 1 of maize coarse purse silk. work in double crochet with maize over one ring 38 stitches; this is the centre ring for the bottom of the purse. [illustration: 248.--crochet purse over rings.] then work with cerise colour over a ring 19 stitches, take another ring and work 19 stitches, repeat this till you have 6 rings, then work round the other half of each ring 19 stitches; and when the 6 are finished, join the first to the last to make a circle; sew the maize ring into the centre of it, then work over 12 rings with black in the same manner, and place them outside the cerise circle. then work over 16 rings with maize colour, and join them beyond the black, but not to lie flat down; they are to stand up to form the sides of the purse. work over 16 rings with cerise, and these you can join one to each of the former rounds in working the second half of the crochet, as it will save the sewing. work over 16 rings in black, and join them in the same manner to the cerise. for the edge, with cerise, work into the centre stitch of the ring a stitch of double crochet, make 5 chain, work into the stitch joining the 8 rings an extra long stitch, make 5 chain, repeat. then work 4 rounds of single open crochet. 6th round: * work a stitch of double crochet and 1 chain alternately, missing 1 loop between each 4 times, then work a long stitch, make 1 chain, work into the next loop 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, work a long stitch into the next loop, repeat from *. 7th round: work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, * make 1 chain, work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, repeat from * 3 times more, miss the next 1 chain, * work a stitch of double crochet into the next 1 chain, make 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, then repeat from the beginning. 8th round: join the black, work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, make 2 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, work a 4th long stitch into the same place, * make 1 chain, work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, miss the next 2 stitches of double crochet, * work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain, make 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, then repeat from the beginning. 9th round: work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, repeat the stitches of double crochet with 1 chain between, as in last round, then repeat from the beginning. 10th and 11th rounds the same as the 9th. add a tassel at the bottom, and strings run into the last row of open crochet complete the purse. * * * * * [illustration: 249.--crochet brioche cushion.] 249.--_crochet brioche cushion_. materials: 10 skeins of 12-thread fleecy, of six shades of red (these should be most of the darker shades); 2 skeins of white ditto; 1 skein of white filoselle. make a chain of 196 stitches with the darkest shade of red wool, and join it into a circle. work 1 round of raised spots thus:--turn the wool 5 times round the needle, insert the needle in 1 chain, and draw it through all the loops, then work 1 slip stitch, insert the needle in the next stitch, work 1 double, and begin a fresh spot. continue in the same way all round. 2nd round: divide the round into 7 parts; work 12 spots with the 3rd shade of red, always working 1 double between each spot, and taking care to place them between those of preceding round: after 12 spots, work 1 double, then 12 more, and so on. 3rd round: 3rd shade of red, 11 spots, 1 double. 4th round: 4th shade, 10 spots, 3 double. 5th round: 5th shade, 9 spots, 5 double. 6th round: same shade, 8 spots, 7 double. 7th round: 5th shade, 7 spots, 9 double. 8th round: same shade, 6 spots, 11 double. 9th round: same shade, 5 spots, 13 double. 10th round: 6th shade, 4 spots, 15 double. 11th round: same shade, 3 spots, 17 double. 12th round: same shade, 2 spots, 19 double. 13th round: same shade, 1 spot, 21 double. the pattern of raised spots being now completed, continue to work with the lightest shade of red in double stitches, decreasing once above each pattern, so as to close up the circle gradually. the white flowers are worked over the plain part of the cushion with white wool, and silk for the petals, and a black dot in the centre. the cushion is stuffed with horsehair and lined with glazed calico. a round of thick pasteboard is stitched in at the bottom, to make it stand firmer. * * * * * _250.--daisy pattern for a crochet couvrette._ materials: for a large couvrette, messrs. walter evans and co.'s boar's head cotton no. 8; for pincushion covers, mats, and such-like small articles, boar's head cotton no. 16 or 20. a pattern of this description is most useful, as it can be converted to so many purposes. counterpanes, couvrettes of every description, mats, pincushions, and a thousand other things can all be arranged from the design. [illustration: 250.--daisy pattern for a crochet couvrette.] each circle is made separately, and joined to the others, as the last row is crocheted. begin in the centre; make 8 chain, insert the needle in the first, and make * a long treble stitch, then make 3 chain, repeat 4 times from *, always inserting the needle in the 1st chain stitch, join the last chain to the 5th of the 1st 8 chain to close the round. 2nd round: work 1 double crochet, * 9 chain, turn, work a slip stitch in each of the 9 chain; work round the stem thus made in close crochet, working 3 stitches in 1 to turn at the point; miss 1 stitch of preceding row, work 2 double crochet, and repeat from * 5 times more, making 6 petals in all. 3rd round: work at the back of the last row, behind the petals; make 1 petal between each petal in last row, 1 double crochet at the back of each, and cut the cotton at the end of the round. 4th round: 2 double crochet at the point of each of the 12 petals, 5 chain between each petal. 5th round: 2 treble, 5 chain, repeat. 6th and last round: 1 double crochet in the centre of the 1st 5 chain, * 5 chain, 1 treble in the centre of the next 5 chain, 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the top of the treble stitch, 6 chain, 1 slip stitch in the same place, 5 chain, a 3rd slip stitch in the same place, 5 chain, 1 double crochet in the centre of the next 5 chain, repeat from * to the end of the round. there should be 12 trefoil patterns in the round. for the couvrette join the circles together, as shown in illustration, in working the last round. as many circles can be added as may be required for the couvrette. * * * * * 251.--_crochet lace_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s crochet cotton no. 40 or 60. this lace produces a very good effect when worked with fine cotton. make a sufficiently long foundation chain, and work the 1st row entirely in double stitch. 2nd row: * 1 treble in the next stitch, 1 chain, miss 1 stitch under it; repeat from *. 3rd row: 1 long treble in the 3rd stitch of the preceding row, * 3 purl (each consisting of 5 chain, 1 double, in the 1st of the same), 1 long treble in the same stitch of the preceding row, 1 purl, miss 3, 3 double in the 3 following stitches, 1 purl, miss 3 stitches, 1 long treble in the 4th stitch; repeat from *. [illustration: 251.--crochet lace.] 4th row: * 3 double in the middle of the next 3 purl of the preceding row, 1 purl, 2 long treble divided by 3 purl in the middle of the 3 next double in the preceding row, 1 purl; repeat from *. 5th row: * 2 long treble, divided by 3 purl in the middle of the next 3 double of the preceding row, 1 purl, 3 double in the middle of the next 3 purl of the preceding row, 1 purl; repeat from *. repeat the 4th and 5th rows alternately till the border is wide enough. * * * * * 252.--_crochet border_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s crochet cotton no. 12, 16, 24, or 40. [illustration: 252.--crochet border.] this border is suitable for a great variety of purposes, according to the size of the cotton employed; in coarse cotton it will make a trimming for couvrettes and berceaunette covers; with fine cotton it can be used for children's clothes, small curtains, &c. make a sufficiently long foundation chain, and work the 1st row: * 2 treble divided by 3 chain in the 1st foundation chain stitch, miss 3; repeat from *. 2nd row: * in the 1st scallop of the preceding row, 1 double, 5 treble, 1 double, then 1 chain, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st of the four), 1 chain, miss under these the next chain stitch scallop; repeat from *. 3rd row: 1 treble in the chain stitch on either side of the purl in the preceding row, 5 chain. 4th row: * 2 double divided by 7 chain in the two first treble of the preceding row (insert the needle underneath the upper parts of the stitch), 10 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 5th of these 10 stitches so as to form a loop, 4 chain, repeat from *. 5th row: * 1 slip in the middle stitch of the scallop formed by 7 chain in the preceding row, 4 treble, 3 chain, 5 treble, 3 chain, 4 treble, all these 13 stitches in the loop of the preceding row, so as to form a clover-leaf pattern; repeat from *, but fasten the 4th treble with a slip stitch on the 10th treble of the preceding figure. 6th row: in the first and last stitch of the 5 middle treble of the clover-leaf 1 double, 7 chain between, 7th row: * 1 double in the 2nd chain stitch of the scallop which is above the 5 middle treble of the clover-leaf, 2 chain, 1 purl (5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st), 2 chain, 1 double in the next chain stitch of the same scallop, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, miss one chain of the scallop, 1 double, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 double in the next chain stitch, 3 chain. 1 double in the middle stitch of the following scallop, 3 chain, repeat from *. * * * * * [illustration: 253.--crochet border.] 253--_crochet border_ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s crochet cotton no. 24, 40, or 60, according to the article for which it is required. on a sufficiently long foundation chain work the 1st row: 1 double in each chain stitch. 2nd row: alternately 1 double, 7 chain, miss under the latter 3 stitches of the preceding row. 3rd row: 1 treble in each double of the preceding row, 1 double in the middle stitch of each scallop, 2 chain between. 4th row: 1 double on each double of the preceding row, 1 treble on each treble, 3 chain between. 5th row: 1 double on each treble of the preceding row, 3 chain between. 6th row: 1 double in each stitch of the preceding row. 7th row: * 1 treble in the 1st stitch of the preceding row, 4 chain, miss 1, 3 treble in the following 3 stitches, miss 3 stitches, 3 treble in the following 3 stitches, 4 chain, miss 1 stitch, 1 treble, 3 chain, miss 4; repeat from *. 8th row: repeat regularly 8 treble in the scallop formed of 4 chain in the preceding row, 1 double in the middle of the following 3 chain. 9th row: * 1 double in the 4th treble of the preceding row, 2 treble, 1 long treble in next treble but 2, 2 long treble in each of the 2 following treble, 1 long treble, 2 treble in the next treble, 1 double in the next treble but 2, 3 chain, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip), 3 chain stitch; repeat from *. 10th row: * 1 double in the 4th treble of the preceding row, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, miss 2 under them, 1 double, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 double in the next chain but 1 of the next scallop, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 double in the 2 chain stitch after the purl of the preceding row, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain; repeat from *. 11th row: in each scallop of the preceding row 2 double (they must meet on either side of the purl); they are divided alternately by 5 chain, and by a scallop formed of 2 chain, 1 purl, and 2 chain, only in the chain stitch scallops which join the two treble figures work no double, but 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain. * * * * * _254 to 257.--wicker arm chair, covered with crochet._ material: berlin wool in two colours. [illustration: 254.--wicker arm chair, covered with crochet.] the seat and back of this arm-chair are covered with two round couvrettes, worked in crochet with berlin wool of two colours. they are fastened on the chair with woollen braid, finishing off with tassels of the same colour. begin each couvrette in the centre with a foundation chain of 6 stitches, with the lightest wool; join them into a circle, and work the 1st round in the following manner:--12 double. 2nd round: * 3 chain, 1 double, in the next stitch of the 1st round, inserting the needle in the upper part of the stitch; repeat from * 11 times more; at the end of this round work 1 slip stitch in the 1st chain of this round. we shall not repeat any more the repetitions from * to the end of the round. 3rd round: * 4 chain, 1 double, in the next scallop of the preceding round; at the end of the round 4 chain. 4th round: 4 double in each scallop of the preceding round. 5th round: begin to work with the darker wool and crochet slip stitch, inserting the needle in the front chain of the stitches of the 4th round. the 6th round is worked once more with light wool, and consists entirely of double stitch, worked by inserting the needle at the back of the stitches of the 4th round, so that the slip stitches appear raised on the right side of the work, and form a round of chain stitches. the middle part of the couvrette is then finished. [illustration: 255.--pattern for arm chair border.] [illustration: 256.--border for arm chair (254).] illustration 257 shows it in full size. 7th round: * 2 chain, missing 1 stitch of the preceding round under them, 1 double. 8th round: * 3 chain, 1 double, in the next scallop of the preceding round. 9th round: 3 double in each scallop. 10th round, like the 5th; 11th round, like the 6th; [illustration: 257.--couvrette for arm chair (254).] 12th, 13th, 14th, 15th, and 16th rounds, like the 7th--11th; 17th--19th rounds like the 7th--9th. 20th round: alternately 1 treble with the light wool, 1 treble with the dark; but every treble stitch must be cast off with the wool of the colour of the next stitch; that is, a light treble stitch with the dark wool, and a dark treble stitch with the light wool. now and then crochet 2 treble stitches in one stitch of the preceding round, so that the couvrette remains perfectly flat. 21st round: 1 double in every stitch. the 22nd--31st rounds consist of a double repetition of the 7th--11th rounds. the 32nd and 33rd rounds are made in open work like the 7th and 8th rounds. the 34th round is worked in treble stitches like the 20th round. then work the outer border. it consists of chain stitch scallops which are worked alternately with dark and light wool. illustration no. 256 shows a part of the border with the treble round in full size. work from it with the light wool 1 double on 1 light treble stitch of the preceding round, 5 chain, 1 double, on the next light treble, throw the wool off the needle and let it hang over the right side of the work; crochet with the dark wool 1 double on the treble stitch between the 2 double of this round, leave the wool on the right side of the work; 5 chain, 1 double, on the next dark treble. take the needle again out of the loop, draw the wool on to the right side, and work the next chain stitch scallop again with the light wool. instead of this border, pattern no. 255 may be worked. it consists of 3 rounds to be worked after the 34th round of the couvrette. 1st round of the border: with dark wool, * 1 double in 1 stitch, of the 34th round; 1 double, 3 treble, 1 double, in the next stitch; repeat from *. 2nd round: with the light wool, * 1 treble, inserting the needle in the next treble stitch of the 34th round, thus working over the double stitch between the spots of the preceding round; 1 chain. 3rd round * 3 double in each chain stitch of the preceding round. to work the 2nd of these 3 double, insert the needle at the same time in the upper part of the middle treble of the 1st round. 4th round: dark wool, * 1 double in each double of the preceding round, miss 1, and work 3 treble in the next stitch but one; the last of these 3 treble is cast off with light wool, miss 1, and continue to work with the light wool 1 double in the next stitch but one, miss 1, 3 treble in the next stitch, cast off the last with the dark wool, miss 1; repeat from *. * * * * * _258 to 260.--crochet insertions._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s crochet cotton no. 30, 40, or 60. [illustration: 258.--crochet insertion.] these insertions are worked with crochet cotton of sizes which depend upon the use you wish to make of them. the insertion seen in illustration 258 is worked the long way in 8 rows. make a sufficiently long foundation chain, and work the 1st row as follows:--1 slip stitch in the 1st stitch of the foundation, * 5 chain, miss 3, 1 double in the next stitch but 3, repeat from *. 2nd row: 1 slip stitch in the middle of the 1st 5 chain, * 3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the middle stitch of the next 5 chain, repeat from *. 3rd row: 1 treble in the 1st stitch, * 1 leaf worked as follows: 6 chain, then without noticing the loop left on the needle 1 long treble in the 2nd and 1 in the 1st of the 6 chain; these stitches are not cast off separately, but together with the loop left on the needle. then 5 chain, miss 7, 1 treble in the 8th stitch, repeat from *. 4th row: 1 double in the 1st of the 5 chain, * 8 chain, 1 double in the 1st of the next 5 chain, repeat from *. 5th row: * 1 leaf as in the 3rd row, 1 double in the double stitch of the preceding row, 5 chain, repeat from *. 6th row: 1 treble in the point of the 1st leaf, * 7 chain, 1 treble in the point of the next leaf, repeat from *. 7th and 8th rows: like the 1st and 2nd. [illustration: 259.--crochet insertion.] the insertion seen in illustration 259 is worked in 6 rows, and is begun in the centre on a foundation chain sufficiently long not to be worked too tight. 1st row: 4 double in the 1st 4 stitches, * 4 double divided in the same way on the other side of the foundation chain, inserting the needle in the 1st row into the 2 chain. illustration 260 shows an insertion which imitates darned netting; it is worked on a grounding imitating netting with raised figures. the grounding consists of 9 rows. work on a sufficiently long foundation chain the 1st row as follows: 1 cross treble in the 1st and 3rd stitch, * 2 chain, missing 2 stitches under them, 1 cross treble in the 6th and 8th stitch, repeat from *. 2nd row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 9 chain, miss 4 under them, 1 double in the 5th stitch, repeat from *. 3rd to 8th rows: 1 double in the middle stitch of every chain stitch scallop, 4 chain between. 9th row: like the 1st. work from illustration square patterns on this grounding, consisting each of 4 leaves; for these leaves carry on the cotton taken double in double windings from 1 double stitch to another, so as to have 4 threads lying close to each other; darn these as can be seen in illustration, with single cotton. [illustration: 260.--crochet insertion.] * * * * * 261.--_crochet lace_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s crochet cotton no. 30. [illustration: 261.--crochet lace.] a particular kind of purl makes this border look very like guipure lace. begin with a foundation chain worked in the following manner:--* 3 chain, the last of them forms 1 purl; this is made by drawing out a long loop on the needle, taking the needle out of the loop, inserting it in the chain stitch before the last one, drawing the cotton through it, and continuing to work so that the loop out of which the needle has been drawn forms 1 purl. all the purl must be equally long; to do this more easily the loop may be kept on the needle till a chain stitch has been worked in that which comes just before the purl, continue the foundation chain, and repeat from *. 1st row: 1 long double in the 1st stitch of the foundation, * 1 chain, 1 slip stitch in the nearest purl of the foundation chain; repeat from *. 2nd row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 purl, 1 chain, missing 1 stitch under it; 1 slip stitch in the slip stitch of the preceding row; repeat from *. 3rd row: like the 1st. 4th row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, missing 5 stitches under them; 1 double in the 6th stitch; repeat from *. 5th row: 1 long double in the 1st stitch, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, * 1 double in the middle of the next 5 chain of the preceding row, 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain; repeat from *. 6th to 9th rows: alternately like the 4th and 5th rows. 10th row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 6 chain, 1 double long treble (throw the cotton 3 times round the needle) in the 1st of these chain stitches; the stitch is only completed so far as still to leave 2 loops on the needle; 1 double long treble in the same chain stitch. this stitch is cast off so as to leave in all 3 loops, and the cotton over the needle; these loops are cast off together by drawing the cotton once through them. this forms 1 leaf, or one-half of the bell-shaped patterns. 3 purl, 1 chain, 1 leaf like the preceding one, 1 slip stitch in the 1st of the first 6 chain stitches; the other half of the pattern is then completed; 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the next scallop of the preceding row, 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the following scallop 11th row: 1 slip stitch in the next purl of the preceding row, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 slip stitch in the next purl of the preceding row, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 slip stitch in the following purl, 1 purl (the 3 purl which are worked on the 3 purl of the bell-shaped pattern are made in this row and in the following one as follows:--crochet 1 chain after the slip stitch, leave it for 1 purl, and work the next chain stitch in the slip stitch), 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the following scallop, 1 purl, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain. 12th row: 3 purl on the next 3 purl of the preceding row, 3 chain between, 1 purl, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the next 5 chain stitches, 1 bell-shaped pattern like those of the 10th row, 1 purl, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain. * * * * * crochet d'oyleys in imitation of point lace. 262--_d'oyley no_. 1. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s boar's head cotton no. 20. pattern no. 1.--make a chain of 8 stitches, unite it. round 1: * 1 double crochet, 9 chain, repeat from * 7 times more, 1 double crochet, unite it to the 1st stitch. round 2: 3 single crochet up the 3 1st of the chain in last row, *, 5 long into the loop of 9 chain, 1 chain, repeat from *. round 3: 1 long into the 1 chain in last round, 9 chain, repeat. round 4: 11 double crochet into the 9 chain in last round, repeat. round 5: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. round 6: 1 double crochet into the 5 chain, 5 chain, repeat. round 7: the same as 6th. no. 2.--make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it. round 1: * 1 double crochet, 4 chain, repeat from * 5 times more. round 2: into the 4 chain 1 double crochet, 4 long, and 1 double crochet, repeat. round 3: 1 double crochet over the double crochet in 1st round, 6 chain, repeat. round 4: into the 6 chain in last round 1 double crochet, 6 long, 1 double crochet, repeat. round 5: 1 double crochet over the one in 3rd round, 8 chain, repeat. round 6: into the 8 chain 1 double crochet, 8 long, 1 double crochet, repeat. round 7: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 5th round, 10 chain, repeat. round 8: into the 10 chain 1 double crochet, 10 long, 1 double crochet, repeat. round 9: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 7th round, 12 chain, repeat. round 10: into the 12 chain 1 double crochet, 12 long, 1 double crochet, repeat. round 11: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 9th round, 14 chain, repeat. round 12: into the 14 chain 1 double crochet, 14 long, 1 double crochet, repeat. round 13: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 11th round, 14 chain, repeat. work 3 patterns of no. 2 for this d'oyley. no. 3.--make a chain of 12 stitches, and unite it. into the circle 1 double crochet, *, 2 long, 3 chain, repeat from * twice more, 2 double long, 4 chain, 2 double long, * 3 chain, 2 long, repeat from * twice more, 1 double crochet, 7 chain. repeat from the beginning. in working the 2nd pattern, join it to the 1st with the 2nd 3 chain, work 3 leaves in this manner, then make only 3 chain, and work a 4th leaf without joining it to the 3rd, make 3 chain after 4th leaf, and work a stitch of double crochet into last 7 chain, make 3 chain. work a 5th leaf, and join it to the 4th as before, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into the next 7 chain, 3 chain. work a 6th leaf in the same way, and join it; but make no chain stitch after the 6th leaf. work 3 patterns of no. 3 for this d'oyley. no. 4.--the same as no. 3, only work 4 leaves instead of 6, 2 on each side. work 3 patterns of no. 4 for this d'oyley. no. 5.--work the 3 1st leaves of no. 3 this is not repeated in this d'oyley. [illustration: 262.--d'oyley no. 1.] no. 6.--make a chain of 15 stitches, and unite it. work into the circle 1 double crochet, 7 long, 6 double, 6 long, 5 chain, 6 double long, 7 long, 1 double crochet, 7 chain, joining the 7th long stitch to the corresponding stitch in 1st leaf, 3 chain. work the 3rd leaf the same as the 1st without joining it to the 2nd, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into the 7 chain, 3 chain, work a 4th leaf, and join it to the 3rd, 3 chain, and join it to the 1st stitch of double crochet at the beginning of the 1st leaf. this pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. no. 7.--tie a round of cotton about this size o. round 1: 20 double crochet into the round. round 2: 2 double crochet into successive loops, work 2 into 3rd loop, repeat. round 3: 1 double crochet into every loop. round 4: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. round 5: into the 5 chain in last round 2 long, 5 chain, 2 more long stitches into the same place, 2 chain, repeat. round 6: into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 6 long, 1 double crochet, 5 chain, repeat. this pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. no. 8.--make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it. round i: 28 double long into the circle. round 2: 2 double crochet between each long in last round. round 3: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. round 4: 3 long into the 2 chain, 1 chain, repeat. round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, 5 chain, repeat. this pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. no. 9.--1st row: make a chain of 30 stitches, work 1 long stitch into the 6th, *, 3 chain stitches, miss 3 loops, 1 long into the next, repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd row: 11 chain, *, 1 double crochet on the other side of the chain into the centre one of the 3 between the long stitch, 1 chain, turn, and work into the 11 chain 3 double crochet and 9 long, 11 chain, repeat from * 7 times more, work into the chain stitches at the end 3 loops of 11 chain with the double crochet and long stitch as before, then work the other half of the pattern to correspond. 3rd row: into the space between the long stitches 5 double crochet, 2 chain, repeat. this pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. no. 10.--make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. round 1: into the circle 24 double long, with 1 chain between each. round 2: 2 double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, repeat. round 3: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. round 4: 1 double crochet into the 2 chain in last round, 5 chain, repeat. this pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. no. 11.--make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it. round 1: 20 long into the circle. round 2: 1 double crochet into every loop. round 3: 1 double crochet, 6 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. round 4: 1 double crochet into the 6 chain, 7 chain, repeat. round 5: 10 double crochet into the 7 chain, repeat. round 6: 1 long, 2 long into the next loop, repeat. round 7: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat. this pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. no. 12.--make a chain of 21 stitches, and unite it. round 1: 30 double crochet into the circle. round 2: *, 21 chain, join it to the 18th, work into the circle 1 double crochet, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 5 chain, 2 long, 7 chain, 2 long, 5 chain, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long and 1 double crochet, 1 single crochet into the 1st double crochet, 3 chain, 4 double crochet into the 3 chain, 2 chain, 6 double crochet into the 5 chain, 2 chain, 4 double crochet into the 7 chain, 3 chain, 4 double crochet into the same place, 2 chain, 6 double crochet into the 5 chain, 2 chain, 4 double crochet into the 3 chain, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the stitches of double crochet at the end, 3 single crochet down the 3 for the stem, 9 single crochet into successive loops round the circle, repeat from * twice more. this pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. no. 13.--*, make 9 chain stitches, turn, 1 double crochet into each loop, repeat from * twice more, then work round both sides of these 3 points 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop at the top of each point, work twice into the same loop, then 5 chain, 1 double crochet into each end, unite the 5th to the last of the centre point of 9. this pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. no. 14.--round 1: * make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it, repeat from * 4 more times. round 2: 1 double crochet into 6 successive loops, 3 stitches into the 7th, 1 into each of the next 6 loops, repeat. round 3: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the centre 1 of the 3 in last, 7 chain, miss 6, repeat. round 4: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. this pattern is not repeated. no. 15.--*, make a chain of 19 stitches, unite it, 3 long into successive loops, 3 double long, 2 long, 1 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 double crochet into the next loop, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the same place, 5 chain, work into successive loops 1 double crochet, 2 long, 3 double long, 3 long, unite the last to the first, 9 chain, repeat from * once more, then 5 double crochet into the 5 1st of the 9 chain, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into each, and 1 into each of the 4 remaining of the 9 chain. this pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. no. 16.--make a chain of 11 stitches, *, work into successive loops 2 double crochet, 7 long, 2 double crochet, 2 more double crochet into the same loop as the last, repeat from * once, make a chain of 24 stitches, unite to the 20th, work into the circle, *, 1 long, 3 chain, 1 long, repeat from * 12 times, work into the 3 chain 1 long, 3 chain, work another long into the same place, repeat, join the last with 1 single crochet to the last of the 24 chain, 2 double crochet over the 2 of the leaf, 7 long into successive loops, 4 double long into successive loops, 4 long into the next loop, and 1 long into the next. this pattern is not repeated. when all these pieces are done, join them as shown in the engraving, sewing them firmly together with the same cotton, then work an edging round in the following manner:--1st row: 1 double long into the 4 chain at the point of the leaf of no. 4 pattern, 7 chain, 1 double long into the 2nd 3 chain in the same leaf, 8 chain, 1 double long into the 1st 3 chain of the 2nd leaf of the same pattern, 15 chain, 1 long into the 4 chain of no. 6 pattern, 15 chain, 1 long into the 4 chain of the next leaf in the same pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of the 11th pattern, 6 chain, 1 single crochet into the 2nd 5 chain from the long stitch, 9 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd 5 chain from the last, 6 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5 chain from the last, 12 chain, work into the 2nd 5 chain from the join of the 7th pattern 1 long, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the next 5 chain, 9 chain, 1 long into the next 5 chain, 8 chain, 1 double crochet in the 1st 3 chain from the join of 4th pattern, 11 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of the 2nd leaf of the same pattern, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of the same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 3 chain of no. 5 pattern, 6 chain, 1 long into the 7 chain between the leaves of the same pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the next 7 chain, 6 chain, 1 long into the 1st 3 chain of the 3rd leaf of the same pattern, 12 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd 5 of double crochet from the join of 9th pattern, 8 chain, 1 single crochet into the centre of the 2nd 5 double crochet from the last, 11 chain, 1 single crochet into the 2nd 5 of double crochet from the last, 12 chain, 1 double crochet into the 7 chain of 15th pattern, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the 6th long stitch of the same leaf, 11 chain, 1 double crochet into the end of the stem of 15th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double long into the 1st 3 chain of the 4th pattern, 4 chain, 1 double long into the last 3 chain of the same leaf, 9 chain, 1 double long into the 2nd 3 chain of the 2nd leaf, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 3 chain of no. 16 pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 3 chain of the same pattern from the last, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of the 10th pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the last, 12 chain, 1 double crochet into the centre of the 7 of double crochet in 12th pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the 5 double crochet of same pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 3 chain in centre of same leaf, 9 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of the 8th pattern, 8 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd 5 chain from the last, 10 chain, 1 double long into the 3rd 5 chain from the stitch of single, 13 chain, and join it to the double long stitch at the beginning of the row. 2nd row: *, 12 chain, and unite it, 1 chain to cross, and on the other side into the circle 1 double crochet, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 double long, 4 chain, then work down the other side to correspond, 8 double crochet into successive loops of the foundation, repeat from *, joining the leaves in the 1st 3 chain. * * * * * _263.--d'oyley no. 2._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s boar's head cotton no. 20. pattern no. 1.--make a chain of 4 stitches, and unite it. round 1: 2 double crochet into each loop. round 2: 2 double crochet into each loop. round 3: 1 double crochet, 2 double crochet into the next loop, repeat. round 4: 1 double crochet into each loop. round 5: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. round 6: 9 double crochet into the 5 chain, repeat. round 7: 9 double crochet into successive loops, beginning on the 5th of the 9 in last round, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet, and repeat. round 8: 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 9 in last round, 11 chain, repeat. round 9: 15 double crochet into the 11 chain in last round, repeat. round 10: 15 double crochet into successive loops, beginning on the 8th of the 15 in last round, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet, repeat. round 11: 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 15 in last round, 17 chain, repeat. round 12: 21 double crochet into the 17 chain in last round. [illustration: 263.--d'oyley no. 2.] no. 2.--make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it. round 1: *, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the circle, repeat from * twice more. round 2: 12 long into the 7 chain, repeat. round 3: 2 long into each loop. round 4: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. round 5: 2 long into the 2 chain in last round, 1 chain, repeat. round 6: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, 5 chain, repeat. no. 3.--make a chain of 14 stitches, and unite it. round 1: into the circle 1 double crochet, 7 long, 6 double long, 4 chain, 6 double long, 7 long, 1 double crochet. round 2: 1 double crochet into every loop. round 3: 2 chain, miss 1 loop, 1 long and repeat, 4 long at the point, finish with a single stitch, 3 chain, and repeat this once more. no. 4.--make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it, chain of 15 and unite it, chain of 13 and unite it, work 6 double crochet into successive loops, beginning on the 1st of the 1st loop of 13, 3 into the next loop, and 1 into each of the 6 next, 1 double crochet into each of the 1st 7 of the loop of 15, 3 into the next, 1 into each of the next 7, 1 double crochet into each of the 6 1st of the next loop of 13, 3 into the next, 1 into each of the next 6. 2nd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. no. 5.--make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it. round 1: into the circle 3 double crochet, 3 long, 3 double long, 5 treble long, 3 double long, 3 long, 3 double crochet. round 2: 1 double crochet into each of the 9 1st loops, 2 into each of the 2 next, and 3 into the next, 2 into each of the 2 next, and 1 into each of the 9 next. round 3: 1 long, *, 3 chain, 1 long into the next loop, repeat from * at the end, unite the last to the 1st stitch, 9 chain, repeat from the beginning; in uniting the last stitch of the 2nd leaf, take up the centre stitch of the 9 chain with it, make 5 chain, and work a 3rd leaf in the same manner; in uniting the last stitch of the 3rd leaf, take up the last of the 5 chain with it, make 9 chain, turn, and work 1 double crochet into each, join the last to the last of the 5 and 9 chain stitch. no. 6.--make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it. round 1: 1 double crochet into 1 loop, 5 chain, repeat 5 times more. round 2: into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 long, 1 double crochet, repeat. round 3: 1 double crochet over the 1st double crochet in last round, 7 chain, repeat. round 4: into the 7 chain in last round 2 double crochet, 7 long, 2 double crochet, and repeat. round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1st double crochet in last round, 11 chain, repeat. round 6: into the 11 chain in last round 3 double crochet, 9 long, 3 more double crochet, repeat. no. 7.--1st row: make a chain of 20 stitches. 1 long into the 15th, *, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 long into the next, repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd row: turn, into the 2 chain 1 double crochet, 2 long, 1 double crochet, repeat this to the end, then into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 2 long, 1 double long, 2 long, 1 double crochet, work the other side to correspond. 3rd row: 1 double crochet into the 1st double crochet in last row, 7 chain, and repeat to the point, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the double long, work the other side to correspond. 4th row: into the 7 chain 4 double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single into the last double crochet, 4 more double crochet into the same place, repeat. no. 8.--1st row: 1 chain of 7 stitches, 1 double crochet into each of the 6 1st, 3 stitches into the 7th, work on the other side of the chain to correspond. 2nd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. 3rd row: 5 double crochet into the 3 chain, repeat. no. 9.--the same as no. 3 in the 1st d'oyley, only 5 leaves instead of 6, 2 on each side, and 1 at the end; 2 of these will be required for this d'oyley. no. 10.--work the 2 1st leaves of no. 4 in the 1st d'oyley; 3 of these will be required for this d'oyley. no. 11.--work only 1 leaf of no. 4 in the 1st d'oyley. this is not to be repeated in this d'oyley. no. 12.--the same as no. 4 in 1st d'oyley. no. 13.--the same as no. 5. no. 14.--the same as no. 8 in 1st d'oyley. no. 15.--the same as no. 10. no. 16.--the same as no. 11 in the 1st d'oyley. no. 17.--the same as no. 2 in 1st d'oyley; 2 of these will be required. no. 18.--the same as no 6 in 1st d'oyley; 2 of these will be required. when all these pieces are done, sew them firmly together, and work the edging round in the following manner:--1 double crochet into the 1st 4 chain of 9th pattern, 9 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf, 10 chain, 1 double crochet in the 4 chain of same leaf, 8 chain, 1 long into the 4th of the 5 chain, from the joining of 15th pattern, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd 5 chain, 4 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5 chain from the last, 12 chain, 1 long into the last 3 chain of 10th pattern, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf, 9 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of 2nd leaf, 12 chain, 1 long into the 1st double crochet from the join of no. 6 pattern, 9 chain, 1 long into the next stitch of double crochet after the long stitch, 16 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of 14th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 3rd 5 chain from the long stitch, 9 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the stitch of double crochet, 9 chain, 1 long into the 1st 3 chain of 10th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf, 12 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of 15th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of same leaf, 9 chain, 1 long into the 1st 14 chain from the join of 17th pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the next 14 chain of same pattern, 14 chain, 1 long into the 4th 5 chain from the join of 16th pattern, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd 5 chain from last, 6 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5 chain from last, 12 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 4 chain of 9th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf, 5 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of 2nd leaf, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of 10th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 7 chain of same pattern, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf, 11 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of 11th pattern, 9 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of same pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into the centre 3 chain of 1st leaf of 12th pattern, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf same pattern, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf, 10 chain, 1 long into the 5th 3 chain from the join of the 3rd pattern, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd 3 chain, 4 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 3 chain of same pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into the 1st 14 chain from join of 17th pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the next 14 chain of same pattern, 10 chain, and unite. 2nd row: the same edging as to 1st d'oyley. * * * * * 264.--_d'oyley no. 3._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s boar's head cotton no. 20. work 2 patterns from no. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from no. 3 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from no. 4 in same d'oyley, and 1 pattern from no. 5, 2 patterns from no. 6 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from no. 7, 1 pattern from no. 8; and 1 from no. 10 in same d'oyley, 2 patterns from no. 11 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from no. 2 in 2nd d'oyley, 1 pattern from no. 3 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from no. 9 in same d'oyley, and 2 from no. 10. then 1 pattern in the following manner:--round 1: make a chain stitch of 12 stitches, 1 double crochet, 10 long into successive loops, 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet at the point, and work down the other side to correspond. round 2: 2 long into each loop. round 3: 4 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 double crochet into the next, repeat. round 4: 1 double crochet into the 1st 4 chain of 3rd round, 5 chain, repeat. work 1 pattern in this way, 1 chain of 14, 1 double crochet into each, 5 chain, 1 double crochet into the last double crochet, turn, 6 double crochet into the circle, with 3 chain between each, into each 3 chain, 5 long, turn, 1 double crochet between each of the 5 long, with 6 chain between each double crochet, turn, into the 1st double crochet 1 long, 2 chain, 1 double long, 2 chain, 1 treble long, 2 chain, 1 double long, 2 chain, 1 long all into the same place, 1 double crochet into the 6 chain. repeat this 5 times more, then work down the 7 of 14, 7 long, and 7 of single crochet. the edging to be the same as in the former d'oyleys. the 1st round of the edging takes up so much space to write, that we think it better to leave it to the judgment of the worker. it will be seen by the engraving when it is necessary to work a double long or long stitch, or a stitch of single or double crochet, and the number of chain stitches between must be just sufficient to make the circle perfect. the best way is to cut a round of blue paper and place them on it from the engraving, then sew them together, and tack them to the paper, and work the 1st row of the edging before removing the paper. [illustration: 264.--d'oyley no. 3.] * * * * * 265.--_d'oyley no. 4._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s boar's head cotton no. 20. work 3 patterns from no. 2 in 1st d'oyley, and 2 from no. 3, 1 pattern from no. 4, 1 pattern from no. 5 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from no. 6, and 1 from no. 8 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from no. 2 in 2nd d'oyley, and 1 leaf from no. 3 in 2nd d'oyley, 1 pattern from no. 11 in 2nd d'oyley, and the following pattern. no. 1.--make a chain of 30 stitches, turn, miss 1 loop, 29 double crochet into successive loops, turn, 1 double crochet, 1 long, 2 double long, 8 treble long into 4 loops, 8 double long, 9 long, 4 double crochet, 3 chain, work down the other side to correspond, then 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat all round. no. 2.--make a chain of 20 stitches, turn, miss 1 loop, 2 double crochet into successive loops, * 2 chain, miss two loops, 1 long into the next, repeat from * 3 times more, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, 3 double crochet into successive loops, 1 double crochet into every loop on both sides. next round: * 5 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, 1 double crochet, 3 long, miss 2 loops of the foundation, 1 double crochet, repeat from * at the point, miss only 1 loop, work 2 patterns of this number. no. 3.--make a chain of 36 stitches, turn, miss 2 loops, 2 long, *, 1 chain, 3 long, repeat from * 3 times, 1 double crochet, turn, *, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st chain stitch, repeat from * 3 times, at the point make 5 chain instead of 4, work down the other side to correspond, turn, and into each of the 4 chain 1 double crochet, 7 long, and 1 double crochet, at the point 10 long instead of 7, 2 double crochet down the stem, 1 chain of 28, turn, miss 12 loops, 1 single crochet, then into the circle 20 long, turn, 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, turn, 1 double crochet into the 5 chain in last row, 5 chain, repeat, turn, into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 7 chain, repeat, turn, into the 7 chain 1 double crochet, 1 long, 7 double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, work down the stem, 1 double crochet, 1 long, 4 double long, 1 long, 4 double crochet, 1 chain of 14, turn, miss 3 loops, 10 long, 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet, turn, 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, turn, into the 3 chain 1 double crochet, 5 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, work down the stem in double crochet. [illustration: 165.--d'oyley no. 4.] no. 4.--make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it. round 1: into the circle 16 long. round 2: 1 double crochet into each loop, 3 chain after each. round 3: 1 double crochet into the 3 chain, 3 chain, repeat. round 4: 4 long into the 3 chain, repeat. round 5: 1 double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. *, for the leaves, 1 chain of 22, turn, 4 double crochet, 1 long, 9 double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, 1 chain to cross the stem, on the other side 1 double crochet, 1 long, 9 double long, 1 long, 4 double crochet, 2 double crochet at the point, work down the other side to correspond, 2 double crochet down the stem, 1 chain of 8, repeat from *, 1 chain of 12, and unite it to the 3 chain of the round, turn, 12 double crochet down the stem, work another leaf in the same manner, then work a stem of 8, and make another leaf the same as before, finish with a stem of 8. no. 5.--round 1: make a chain of 12 stitches, and unite it, 1 double crochet, miss 3 loops, 12 chain, repeat twice more. round 2: into the 12 chain 2 double crochet, 13 long, 2 double crochet, repeat. round 3: 2 double crochet into successive loops, 13 long into successive loops, 2 double crochet into successive loops, repeat. round 4: 1 long, 5 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat. round 5: into the 5 chain 2 double crochet, 5 long, 2 double crochet, repeat. no. 6.--make a chain of 11 stitches, and unite it. round 1: 2 double crochet into each loop. round 2: 1 double crochet into each loop. round 3: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 into the next, repeat. round 4: 1 long, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. round 5: into the 5 chain 3 double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet, 3 more of double crochet into the same place, 4 chain, repeat. round 6: 1 long into the 4 chain, 7 chain, repeat. round 7: into the 7 chain 4 double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet, 4 more double crochet into the same place, 4 chain, repeat. when all these pieces are done sew them together, as shown in the engraving, and work the edging to correspond with the other d'oyleys. * * * * * 266.--_d'oyley no. 5._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s boar's head cotton no. 20; and 1 skein of fine embroidery cotton, by the same makers. pattern no. 1.--make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 5 times more. round 2: into the 7 chain 11 stitches of double crochet, repeat. round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 11, 9 chain, miss 5 loops, 1 double crochet into the next, 9 chain, repeat. round 4: into the 9 chain 13 double crochet, repeat. round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 13, 7 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat. round 6: 5 double crochet into the 7 chain, and repeat. no. 2.--make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. round 1: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, repeat 7 times more. round 2: 6 chain, miss the 1st, then work into successive loops 2 double crochet and 3 long, 1 double crochet into the 1 double crochet in 1st round, repeat. round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 1st round, 5 chain, and repeat. round 4: 7 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 double crochet, 3 long, 1 double long, 1 double crochet into the 5 chain, repeat. round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 in the 3rd round, 5 chain, repeat. round 6: same as 4th. round 7: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 5th round, 6 chain, repeat. round 8: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 double crochet, 3 long, 2 double long. round 9: same as 7th. round 10: same as 8th. two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. [illustration: 266.--d'oyley no. 5.] no. 3.--make a chain of 16, and unite it. round 1: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 double crochet into the next, repeat. round 2: 6 double crochet into successive loops, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet, repeat. round 3: 1 double crochet into the 3rd of the 6, 13 chain, repeat. round 4: 17 double crochet into the 13 chain, repeat. round 5: 1 long and 1 chain alternately, missing 1 loop between each. round 6: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, 1 chain, 1 double crochet into the next chain, 5 chain, work another double crochet into the same place, 1 chain, repeat. no. 4.--make a chain of 14 stitches, and unite it. round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 6 times more. round 2: 5 double crochet into the 7 chain, repeat. round 3: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 double crochet, 3 long, and 2 double long, 1 double crochet into the last of the 5 double crochet, repeat. round 4: 1 double crochet at the top of the point, 4 chain, miss 1 loop, 1 double crochet into the next, 4 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 double crochet into the next, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1 in last round. work the other side of the point to correspond. two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. no. 5.--make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. round 1: 2 double crochet into each loop. round 2: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 into the next, repeat. round 3: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops, 5 double crochet and 2 long, miss 1 of the last round, work 4 double crochet into successive loops, repeat 3 times more, at the end of the round work 4 more double crochet. round 4: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat all, round the 4 points and 2 stitches beyond the 4th, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into each of the 7, finish the round with 3 chain and 1 double crochet as before. no. 6.--make a chain of 5 stitches, and unite it. round 1: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, repeat 4 times more. round 2: into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 chain, repeat till 5 double crochet are done, repeat. round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 1st round, 7 chain, repeat. round 4: same as 2nd. round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 3rd round, 7 chain, repeat. round 6: same as 2nd. round 7: same as 5th. round 8: same as 2nd, only 4 chain instead of 3. round 9: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 7th round, 8 chain, repeat. round 10: the same as 8th, only making 5 chain instead of 4. four of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. no. 7.--make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it. round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat twice more. round 2: into the 7 chain 2 double crochet, 7 long, 2 double crochet, repeat. round 3: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, 11 chain, work 2 more leaves in the same way, 1 double crochet into the 3 chain, 4 chain, repeat round 2 sides of the leaf, 3 chain, repeat the stitch of double crochet and 4 chain round 2 sides of each leaf, joining them with 3 chain. two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. no. 8.--1st row: make a chain of 14 stitches, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 5 double crochet, 5 long, 3 double long, turn. 2nd row: 2 double long into each of the 3, 9 long into successive loops, 5 long into the double crochet at the point of the leaf, 9 long into successive loops, 6 double long into the next 2 loops, 9 double long into the end of the 1st row, unite the last to the first double long in 2nd row. 3rd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. no loop to be missed at the point, then work with the embroidery cotton a smaller leaf on it in satin stitch, raising it first with the cotton. no. 9.--make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it. round 1: 20 long into the circle. round 2: 1 double crochet, taking both sides of the loop, 9 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. round 3: double crochet into the centre of the 9 chain, 7 chain, repeat. round 4: into the 7 chain of last row 1 double crochet, 1 long, 3 double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, then work 2 patterns from no. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from no. 3, 2 patterns with 3 leaves from no. 3 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns with 2 leaves, and 1 pattern with 1 leaf, work 3 patterns from no. 6 in 1st d'oyley. when all these patterns are done join them as shown in the engraving, and work the edging as directed in the former d'oyleys. * * * * * 267.--_d'oyley no. 6_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s boar's head cotton no. 20. pattern no. 1.--make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it. round 1: 2 double crochet into each loop. round 2: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, and 1 into the next, repeat. round 3: increase to 30 double crochet. round 4: 4 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st chain, 5 double crochet, and repeat 5 times more. round 5: 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 5 in last round, 11 chain, repeat. round 6: 1 double crochet into every loop. round 7: 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st, 12 double crochet, and repeat. round 8: 1 double crochet into the 6th of the 12, 15 chain, repeat. round 9: 1 double crochet into every loop. round 10: 7 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 1 double crochet, 2 long, and 3 double long, miss 5 loops of the last round, work 1 double crochet, repeat. round 11: 1 double crochet over the 1 in last round, miss 1 loop, 1 double crochet into the next, *, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat from * 4 times more, repeat from the beginning of the row. no. 2.--make a chain of 20 stitches, and unite it. round 1: 30 double crochet into the circle. round 2: 1 double crochet, 13 chain, miss 5 loops, repeat. round 3: 17 double crochet into the 13 chain, repeat. round 4: 1 long, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 2nd of the 5 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. four patterns of this number will be required for this d'oyley. [illustration: 267.--d'oyley no. 6.] no. 3.--make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. round 1: 1 double crochet, 11 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 3 times more. round 2: into the 11 chain, *, 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st chain, repeat from * twice more, 3 more double crochet, repeat from the beginning of the row. no. 4.--make a chain of 6, and unite it. round 1: 1 long, 4 chain, repeat 5 times more. round 2: into the 4 chain in last row 1 long, 4 chain, work another long into the same place, 2 chain, repeat. round 3: into the 2 chain 3 double crochet, into the 4 chain 1 double crochet, 11 chain, work another double crochet into the same place, repeat. round 4: into the 11 chain 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, 3 double crochet, 7 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 7, 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, 3 double crochet, 2 chain, 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 3 in last round, 2 chain, repeat; then work 2 patterns from no. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from no. 3, 2 patterns from no. 4, 3 from no. 6, and 1 each from nos. 11, 13, and 14 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from each of nos. 3 and 4 in 2nd d'oyley, 2 patterns from no. 2 in 5th d'oyley, and 1 pattern each from nos. 4 and 6 in the 5th d'oyley. sew these pieces firmly together as shown in the engraving, and add the edging as before. * * * * * 268.--_d'oyley no. 7._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s boar's head cotton no. 20; and 1 skein of their fine embroidery cotton. pattern no. 1.--make a chain of 16 stitches and unite it. 1st round: 2 double crochet into each loop. 2nd round: 1 double crochet into each loop. 3rd round: 1 double crochet, 9 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat. 4th round: into the 9 chain 11 double crochet. 5th round: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. 6th round: into the 2 chain 1 double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the one double crochet, work another double crochet into the 2 chain, 2 double crochet into the next 2 chain, repeat. 7th round: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 2 in last round, 13 chain, repeat. 8th round: into the 13 chain 11 double crochet, repeat. no. 2.--make a chain of 13 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each, make a chain of 15 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each, make a chain of 13 stitches, 1 double crochet into each. 2nd row: 1 double crochet into the end of each of these points, then work round _both_ sides of these points in double crochet, working twice into the end of each point. 3rd row: 3 double crochet over the 3 at the beginning of last row, *, 4 chain, single crochet into the 1st of the 4 chain, miss 1 loop, work a long stitch into the next, repeat from * all round, at the beginning and end of the 3rd point miss 2 loops instead of 1, then work a stitch of double crochet into the 1st of the 3, 6 chain, miss the 1st, work into successive loops 2 long and 3 double crochet, 1 double crochet into the last of the 3. this completes the pattern. no. 3.--make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. 1st round: 2 double crochet into each loop. 2nd round: 1 double crochet into 1 loop, 2 double crochet into the next, repeat. 3rd round: 2 double crochet into successive loops, 2 double crochet into the next, repeat. 4th round: 11 double crochet into successive loops, *, 9 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 double crochet into the next, repeat from *. 5th round: 11 double crochet over the 11 in last round, work into the 9 chain 5 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the chain, 5 more double crochet into the same place, repeat. 6th round: 13 double crochet over the 11 in last round, *, 15 chain, 1 double crochet over the 1st of the 5 in last round, repeat from *. 7th round: 13 double crochet over the 13 in last round, *, work into the 15 chain 8 double crochet, 5 chain, work a stitch of single crochet into the 1st of the 5, 8 double crochet into the same place, repeat from *. this completes the pattern. then work a circle in satin stitch on the plain part of the pattern with the fine embroidery cotton. two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. [illustration: 268.--d'oyley no. 7.] no. 4.--make a chain of 16 stitches, and unite it. * make a chain of 10 stitches, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 3 double crochet, 3 long, and 3 double long, unite the last double long to the 4th of the 16 chain in the circle, repeat from * 3 times more, *, work in single crochet to the top of the point and down 6 stitches of the other side, then make a chain of 8 stitches, miss the 1st, work into successive loops 3 stitches of double crochet, 2 long, and 2 double long, unite the last to the 3rd of the next point, and repeat from * 3 times more. three of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. work 2 patterns from no. 2 in the 1st d'oyley, work 2 patterns from no. 3 in the same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from no. 5, and 1 from no. 6 in 1st d'oyley, work 2 patterns with 1 leaf from no. 3 in 1st d'oyley, and 1 pattern with 2 leaves, work 2 patterns from no. 3 in the 5th d'oyley, and 1 pattern from no. 4 in the same d'oyley, and 1 from no. 6, work 6 patterns from no. 3 in the 6th d'oyley, and 1 pattern from no. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from no. 2 in 6th d'oyley. join these pieces as before, and add the same edging. * * * * * 269.--_d'oyley no. 8_ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s boar's head cotton no. 20; and 1 skein of their fine embroidery cotton. pattern no. 1.--make a chain of 9 stitches, work a stitch of double crochet into each of the 8 1st, work 2 into the 9th, work down the other side of the chain to correspond, and unite it. 2nd round: *, work 1 long, make 4 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 4 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat from *. no loop to be missed at the point. when this round is finished, make 10 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 long, and 7 of double crochet, then make 15 chain, unite to the 7th, and work into the circle 1 double crochet, make 5 chain, repeat 5 times more. 2nd round: work into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 long, and 1 of double crochet, repeat. 3rd round: work 1 double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat. three of these patterns are required for this d'oyley. [illustration: 269.--d'oyley no. 8.] no. 2.--make a chain of 6 stitches. 1st round: work 2 double crochet into each loop. 2nd round: work 1 double crochet, make 9 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. 3rd round: work into the 9 chain 1 long, make 1 chain, work another 1 long into the same place, make 1 chain, work a third 1 long into the same place, make 7 chain, and repeat. 4th round: work into the centre of 3 long 2 long, make 5 chain, work 2 more long into the same place, make 5 chain, work into the centre of the 7 chain 1 double crochet, make 3 chain, work another of double crochet into the same place, make 5 chain, and repeat. two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. work 1 pattern from no. 2 in 1st d'oyley, work 1 pattern from nos. 3, 4, and 6, work 1 pattern with 3 leaves from no. 3 in 1st d'oyley, and 2 with only 1 leaf, work 1 pattern from each of nos. 13 and 14 in 1st d'oyley, work 1 pattern from 2 in 5th d'oyley, and 1 from no. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 2 patterns from no. 6 in 5th d'oyley, work 3 patterns from no. 3 in 6th d'oyley, and 2 from no. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from no. 1 in 7th d'oyley, work 2 patterns from no. 3, and 1 pattern from no. 4 in 7th d'oyley, then sew them together as before. * * * * * 270.--_d'oyley no. 9_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s boar's head cotton no. 20. pattern no. 1--make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite ir. 1st round: work into the circle 1 long, make 3 chain, repeat 11 times more. 2nd round: work 1 double crochet into every loop. 3rd round: *, make 11 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, work 10 double crochet down the chain, miss 1 loop, work 7 double crochet and repeat from * 5 times more. 4th round: work 1 double crochet, beginning on the 1st of the 10, make 5 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet, make 5 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet, make 5 chain, work 1 double crochet into the point, work down the other side to correspond, make 2 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet, make 2 chain, miss 3 loops, and repeat. 5th round: work into each of the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 5 long stitches, and 1 double crochet. no. 2.--make a chain of 20 stitches, and unite it. 1st round: work a stitch of double crochet into 1 loop, work 2 double crochet into the next, repeat. 2nd round: * work 3 double crochet, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, repeat from * 9 times more, work 2 double crochet. 3rd round: * make 21 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in the centre one of the 3, turn, work 7 double crochet into the 21 chain, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, work 7 double crochet into the 21 chain, repeat from * 8 times more. 4th round: work 15 double crochet into each loop of 21 chain, above the last 7 work 20 double crochet into the last loop of 21, make 5 chain, turn, work 1 single crochet into the last of the 5 chain, 7 double crochet, make 4 chain. 5th round: work 19 double crochet, beginning on the 1st of the 7 in the 1st loop of 21 chain, * make 6 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, work into successive loops a stitch of double, 3 long, 1 double long, then miss 4 double crochet stitches, work 5 double crochet into successive loops, make 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, miss 1 loop, 5 double crochet into successive loops, repeat from * 8 times more, then work 12 double crochet. two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. [illustration: 270.--d'oyley no. 9.] no. 3.--make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. 1st round: work into the circle 1 long, make 3 chain, repeat 9 times more. 2nd round: work into the 3 chain 1 double crochet, make 17 chain, work another stitch of double crochet into the same place, make 1 chain, work 1 double crochet into the next 3 chain, make 1 chain, and repeat. 3rd round: work into the 17 chain 20 double crochet, work 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, make 1 chain, work 1 double crochet into the next 1 chain, and repeat. 4th round: work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, * work 5 double crochet into successive loops, beginning on the 1st of the 20, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5, repeat from * twice more, then work 5 double crochet into successive loops, and repeat from the beginning of the round. two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. no. 4.--make 21 chain and unite it, make a chain of 27 and unite it, make a chain of 21 and unite it. 1st round: work in the 21 chain 25 stitches of double crochet, work into the 27 chain 31 double crochet, work into the 21 chain 25 double crochet. 2nd round: work 3 stitches of double crochet into successive loops, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, repeat this 6 times more, then work 3 double crochet and repeat from the beginning in the centre loop, repeat this 9 times instead of 7. two of these are required for this d'oyley. no. 5.--make a chain of 44 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each, turn, make 21 chain, work 1 double crochet into the 4th chain on the other side, * make 21 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet into the next, repeat from * 9 times more, work 1 single crochet into the end loop, work 44 double crochet into successive loops, work 15 double into the 1st loop of 21, work 4 double crochet into each loop of 21, and 15 into the end one, then * work 2 double crochet, make 3 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 3, repeat from * all round. work 2 patterns from no. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 from no. 3, 2 with 3 leaves, and 2 with 2 leaves, from no. 3 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from no. 6 in same d'oyley, and 3 patterns from no. 3 in 6th d'oyley, sew them together as shown in the engraving, and add the edging as before. * * * * * 271.--_d'oyley no. 10_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s boar's head cotton no. 20. pattern no. 1.--make a chain of 19 stitches, turn, miss 5 loops, work 10 double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 long, make 3 chain stitches, miss 3 loops, work 1 long stitch, make 3 chain stitches, work a stitch of double crochet into the last loop, then work into the 1st 3 chain on the other side, 1 double crochet, 5 long, work into the next 3 chain 4 long stitches, work 4 long stitches into the next 3 chain stitches, then work into the 5 chain at the point 8 long stitches, then work down the other side to correspond, * make 3 chain, miss 1 loop, work 1 long, make 1 chain, work 1 long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, miss 1 loop, work 1 double crochet, repeat from * 7 times more, then work into the 1st 3 chain 1 double crochet, make 1 chain, work 1 long stitch, * make 1, work 1 double long stitch, repeat from * twice more, make 1 chain, work 1 long; all these stitches are worked into the same 3 chain, then work 1 double crochet into the chain stitch between the 2nd and 3rd long stitches, repeat this 7 times more; this finishes the leaf; then make 16 chain, and work a second leaf the same as 1st, then work 2 double crochet down, then make 12 chain, and work a third leaf the same as 1st, work 14 stitches down the stem, and work a 4th leaf the same as 1st, work 8 double crochet down the stem, work a 5th leaf the same as 1st, make a chain of 40 stitches, turn, and work back in double crochet. [illustration: 271.--d'oyley no. 10.] no. 2.--make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it, *, work a stitch of double crochet into the circle, make 13 chain, and repeat from * five times more, then work 17 stitches into each of the 13 chain, then work 2 stitches of double crochet, beginning on the second of the 13, *, make 5 chain stitches, and work a stitch of single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, then work 2 stitches of double crochet, and repeat from * 5 times more; for the stem make a chain of 30 stitches, turn, * work 5 stitches of double crochet, make 5 chain, turn, and work a stitch of single crochet into the 1st, repeat from * 4 times more, then work down the other side to correspond; then work 1 pattern from no. 2 in 1st d'oyley, and 2 from no. 3, 2 with only two leaves, and 2 from no. 6 in the same d'oyley; work 1 pattern from no. 6 in 5th d'oyley, and 3 from no. 3 in 6th d'oyley; work 1 pattern from no. 2 in 9th d'oyley, and 1 from no. 3; work 3 patterns from no. 4 in the same d'oyley, sew the pieces together as before, and work the edging. * * * * * 272 _and_ 273.--_work-basket in straw and silk crochet-work_. materials: straw; brown floss silk; brown ribbon, 1-1/4 inch wide; small glass beads; a piece of bamboo cane. this basket has a cover formed of two pieces. it can be employed for many things, and is formed entirely of crochet-work with brown silk over straw. a ruche trimmed with beads and bows of brown silk ribbon form the trimming of the basket. the straws over which you crochet must be damp, so as not to be stiff. they should be of unequal length, and when you join the two ends of two straws together, try to hide the beginning with the other straws. begin the basket in the centre of the bottom part with 46 stitches; then work 9 rounds on either side of this first row, working alternately 1 double stitch, 1 or 2 chain stitches, the double stitch in the chain stitch of the preceding round, the last round over wire. [illustration: 273.--bottom of work basket (272).] it is necessary to increase regularly in all the rounds to keep the work flat. when you have finished the bottom begin the border of the basket, which is worked of the same piece with it, and consists of 11 rounds. it is worked in the same way as the bottom, the first 2 rounds without increasing the number of stitches, but in the following 9 rounds increase 2 double stitches at both ends, in order that the edge may be a little wider in the upper part. in the last round add a piece of wire to the straws. [illustration: 272.--work basket in straw and crochet.] the cover of the basket is formed of two pieces. begin in the middle with 28 stitches; crochet each half in rows forming a half circle, working backwards and forwards; at the beginning of each row turn the straws, and take care that the rows which are finished form a straight line. each half of the cover requires 9 rows; the last one is worked over wire. the two halves are united at the straight sides by a brown silk ribbon 1-1/4 inch wide, which is sewed on underneath, and which forms a sort of hinge; sew on also a piece of wire covered with brown silk, so as to make the hinge stronger. form the handle with a piece of bamboo cane 23 inches long, and covered with straws; work over it in long stitches of brown silk, and let it go down to the bottom of the basket; then sew the cover on the handle with the brown ribbon, which forms the two parts. trim the basket with a ruche of double box pleats, ornamented with glass beads and with bows of brown silk ribbon. * * * * * 274 _and_ 275.--_two crochet borders_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s crochet cotton nos. 30 and 80. no. 274.--crochet cotton of two sizes is used for this border (no. 30 and no. 80); it is begun in the centre by a chain of stitches of the length required. [illustration: 274.--crochet border.] 1st row: 1 double in each stitch of the chain. 2nd row: turn and work on the opposite side of the chain, * 1 double, 11 chain, miss 7. repeat from *. 3rd row: * 1 double on the 1st loop of chain, 2 chain, 1 double in the centre of the 7 stitches which are under the 1st loop of chain, 2 chain, 1 double on the same loop, 5 chain. repeat from *. 4th row: * 1 double in the centre of the 1st loop of chain, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 1st, but before you complete the treble stitch make 1 chain. repeat from *. this row completes the upper half of the border. the lower half is worked over the 1st row of plain double crochet. 5th row: 1 double in each of the first 5 stitches, 15 chain, miss 9, 1 double, come back over the loop of chain and work 1 double in each stitch, come back again and work 6 small points, each made thus: 5 chain, 1 double in the 4th, and 1 treble in each of the 3 others, 1 double over the round scallop. when you have worked the 6 small points repeat from *, but always join the 1st point of one scallop to the last point of the next scallop. the pattern inside the scallops is worked in 2 rows with fine cotton. (see illustration.) * * * * * [illustration: 275.--crochet border.] no. 275.--the border is begun above the pointed scallops, filled up with lace stitches, by making alternately 3 chain, 1 purl (_i.e._, 5 chain and 1 slip stitch in the 1st). when the chain is long enough, turn and work the 1st row: alternately 7 chain, 1 double in the centre stitch between the 2 purl. 2nd row: turn, work 1 double in the centre of the 1st loop of 7 chain, 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the centre of next loop, and so on. the 3rd row (which is the last) is worked on the opposite side of the chain with purl. * in each of the 8 first stitches work 1 double, make 12 chain, miss the 4 last of the 8 double just worked, and work 1 double in the 5th, come back over the loop of chain, and work 7 small points over it. for each point make 3 chain, work 1 double in the 2nd, 1 treble in the 1st of the 3 chain, 1 double upon the loop of chain. repeat from * 6 times more. in the following scallops always fasten the first point of one scallop to the last point of the preceding scallop. when this row is completed fill up the inner part of each scallop with a network of fine thread, joining the threads at all the places where they cross each other by 2 or 3 stitches with a sewing needle. [illustration: 275.--crochet border.] * * * * * 276.--_crochet antimacassar_. materials: 18 reels of messrs. walter evans and co.'s boar's head cotton no. 10. [illustration: 276.--crochet antimacassar.] this pattern can be adapted for a round couvrette or a square one, and is also pretty done in silk for a sofa cushion. make a chain of 4 stitches, and unite it. 1st round: work into 1 loop a long stitch, make 1 chain stitch, work another long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, repeat. 2nd round: 3 long stitches into 1 loop, make 2 chain stitches, miss 1 loop, and repeat. 3rd round: 1 double crochet into the 2 chain in last round, make 7 chain, and repeat. 4th round: into the 7 chain 2 double crochet, 5 long stitches, and 2 more double crochet, and repeat. 5th round: 1 long stitch into the 1st double crochet in last round, make 9 chain, and repeat. 6th round: into the 9 chain 2 double crochet, * make 4 chain, work 2 double crochet, repeat from * 3 times more, make 5 chain, work a stitch of single crochet into the 2nd of the 5, make 1 chain stitch, and repeat from the beginning of the round. 7th round: 1 long stitch into the loop formed with the 5 chain, make 12 chain, and repeat. 8th round: into the 12 chain 2 double crochet into successive loops, make 4 chain, work 1 double crochet into each of the 2 next loops, make 1 chain, work into the 6th loop 1 double crochet, 5 long stitches, and another double crochet, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, work 2 double crochet into successive loops, make 4 chain, work 1 double crochet into each of the 2 next, make 5 chain, and repeat. this completes the circle. 120 circles sewn together like the engraving will make a good-sized couvrette, 12 in the length, and 10 in the width. if a round couvrette is wished, work 1 circle for the centre larger than the others; this can be done by repeating the 5th and 6th rounds, then sew 8 circles round the centre one, and increase the number of circles in each row till you have made it the size you wish. for the square one, tassels are required for the end and sides; these are made by winding the cotton over a cardboard 4 inches deep about 80 times, then twist 8 threads of the cotton into a cord, cut the cotton wound on the cardboard at one end, make 2 inches of the cord into a loop and tie it firmly with the middle of the tassel, then turn it, tie a thread tightly round, about an inch below the cord, and net over the head; 40 of these tassels will be sufficient. * * * * * 277.--_crochet insertion_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s crochet cotton no. 40. [illustration: 277.--crochet insertion.] the patterns of this insertion are worked in a row, and always two opposite circles at a time. make a foundation chain of 16 stitches, join them into a circle, then work a 2nd circle consisting again of 16 chain stitches. work round this circle 24 double stitches, and 24 double round the 1st circle; after the last stitch begin again at the 2nd circle, and work 10 chain scallops as follows:--3 double in the next 3 stitches, * 5 chain, 2 double in the next 2 stitches, repeat 8 times more, 3 double in the last 3 stitches; work in the same manner round the other circle. to get to the next pattern, work 4 slip stitches between the 2 circles in the middle of the just-completed pattern, leaving the cotton under the work and drawing it through the stitch upwards through the loop on the needle; 7 chain stitches, and then 2 circles like those just described, and so on. * * * * * 278 _and_ 279.--_tobacco pouch in crochet work_. materials: black purse silk; crimson ditto; gold thread. the pouch is begun at the bottom, in the centre of the star. with crimson silk make a chain of 3 stitches, and join it into a circle. work 4 rounds of double crochet, 2 stitches in each stitch. 5th round: 2 crimson stitches, 1 gold stitch, and so on. 6th round: all gold stitches. 7th round: 2 crimson stitches, 2 gold, and so on. 8th round: all crimson stitches. 9th round: 3 crimson stitches, 2 gold, &c. 10th round: similar to the preceding. [illustration: 278.--star for tobacco pouch, no. 279.] 11th round: 4 gold stitches, 3 crimson, &c. 12th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 black stitches over the 2 centre gold stitches of preceding round, &c. 13th round: 3 gold stitches, 4 black stitches, &c. 14th round: 1 gold stitch, 6 black stitches, &c. 15th round: 3 gold stitches, 4 black stitches, &c. 16th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 black stitches, &c. 17th round: 4 gold stitches, 2 over the black stitches of preceding round, and 1 on either side, 4 crimson stitches, &c. 18th round: 2 gold stitches over the centre ones of preceding round, 7 crimson stitches, &c. now work 4 plain crimson rounds, and begin the pattern from no. 279. the centre is crimson, and the pattern is black and gold. the border round the top is of the same colours. [illustration: 279.--tobacco pouch.] complete the work by 2 rounds of open treble crochet, and 1 round of gold scallops. in the open rounds pass a double cord of black silk, finished off with small balls of black silk gimp and gold; and on either side of the pouch fasten one of these same balls with two tassels, one crimson and one black. the pouch is lined with white kid. * * * * * 280 _and_ 281.--_crochet rosettes_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s crochet cotton no. 4, 24, or 40. these rosettes are suitable for trimming cuffs, collars, and bodices, or for making couvrettes, according to the size of the cotton with which they are worked. [illustration: 280.--crochet rosette.] 280.--make a foundation chain of 22 chain; join them into a circle and work the 1st round; 44 double. 2nd round: * 7 chain, missing 3 stitches of the preceding round under them, 1 double; repeat 10 times more from *. 3rd round: 1 slip stitch in the first 4 stitches of the next scallop, * 5 chain, miss the last and work back on the other 4, 1 double, 1 treble, 1 long treble, 1 double long treble (throw the cotton 3 times round the needle), 1 slip stitch in the middle stitch of the next scallop; repeat 10 times more from *. work a wheel in the centre of the rosette, which is ornamented with a circle of chain stitch, as can be seen in illustration; take up one thread of the wheel with every other chain stitch. * * * * * [illustration: 281.--crochet rosette.] 281.--begin the rosette with a leaf-like pattern in the centre, and work the 1st row: * 11 chain, miss the last, work back over the following 8 stitches, 1 double, 1 treble, 2 long treble, 1 double long treble, 2 long treble, 1 treble, 1 double in the upper part of the chain stitch before the last, 1 slip stitch in the lower part of the same stitch. the first leaf of the middle pattern is then completed; repeat 6 times more from *. join the first and last leaves together by working 1 slip stitch in the 1st of the 11 chain stitch. 2nd round: (fasten on the cotton afresh), 1 slip stitch in the point of each leaf, 12 chain between. 3rd round: 24 double in each scallop. the rosette is then completed. * * * * * 282.--_crochet trimming, with embroidered flowers worked in appliqué, and velvet ribbon_. [illustration: 282.--crochet trimming, with embroidered flowers worked in appliqué and velvet ribbon.] this trimming consists of 2 strips of crochet insertion, ornamented with embroidery patterns worked in appliqué, and velvet ribbon drawn through. they are worked the long way with fine crochet cotton. begin on a sufficiently long foundation chain of stitches which can be divided by 20, and work the 1st row: 1 chain, * 5 double, on the first 5 stitches of the foundation, 1 leaf, as follows:--10 chain, without reckoning the loop left on the needle, 1 extra long treble (for which the cotton is wound 5 times round the needle) in the second of the 10 chain, a similar treble in the first, then cast off the 2 treble stitches together, wind the cotton once round the needle, and cast off the last loop with the loop left on the needle. miss under the leaf 15 stitches of the foundation, and repeat from *. 2nd row: 5 double on the 5 double of the preceding row, inserting the needle in the whole stitches, 15 chain stitches between. 3rd row: * 5 double in the first 5 double of the preceding row, 7 chain, 1 slip stitch in every other stitch of the next scallop of the preceding row, 7 chain between, 7 chain stitches; repeat from *. 4th row: * 1 double in the middle of the 5 double of the preceding row, 3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the middle stitch of each of the 8 scallops, consisting of 7 chain in the preceding row, 3 chain between, 3 chain; repeat from *. these 2 last rows (the third and fourth) are repeated on the other side of the foundation chain. when the 2 strips of insertion are completed, sew them together so that 2 opposite scallops meet, and ornament them with the embroidery patterns and velvet ribbon. * * * * * 283.--_crochet insertion_. this pretty insertion is very suitable for cerceaunette covers or pillow-cases, and should be worked with middle-sized cotton. if the insertion is used for anything but a pillowcase, omit the lower border on which the button-holes are made. begin the insertion in the middle of one of the star-like figures, with a foundation chain of 9 stitches; join them into a circle by making 1 slip stitch, and crochet thus:--* 10 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 5th of these chain; this forms 1 purl; 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the circle, repeat from * 5 times more. work 4 slip stitches in the next 4 chain, then crochet * in the next purl; 5 double divided by 5 chain, 4 chain, repeat 5 times from *. fasten the thread after having fastened the last 4 chain-stitches with a slip stitch to the 1st double stitch of this round. this completes the star-like figure. work on one side of these figures the following rows:-1st row: * 1 treble in the 2nd scallop of the four placed together, 3 chain, 1 double in the next scallop, 3 chain, 1 treble in the last of the 4 scallops, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 1st scallop of the following 4 placed together, 3 chain, 1 double in the next 2nd scallop, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 3rd scallop, 3 chain. repeat from *. 2nd row: 3 treble in the 1st stitch of the preceding row, * miss 3 stitches, 3 treble in the 4th following stitch. repeat from *. 3rd row: * 3 treble cast off together as one stitch on the next 3 stitches of the preceding row, 2 chain. repeat from *. 4th row: 1 double on the next stitch of the preceding row, * 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 3 double; this forms 1 purl; 3 double on the next 3 stitches of the preceding row. repeat from *. after having worked these four rows likewise on the other side of the star figures, work over the last the following 5 rows for the button-holes:-1st row: 1 double in the next purl, * 2 chain, 1 double in the next purl. repeat from *. 2nd row: 1 double in each stitch of the preceding row. 3rd row: alternately 11 double, 7 chain, under which miss 7 stitches. 4th row: like the 2nd row. 5th row; * 3 double on the next 3 double of the preceding row, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the last double stitch). repeat from *. [illustration: 283.--crochet insertion.] * * * * * 284.--_crochet insertion_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s crochet cotton no. 30. this insertion is worked in our pattern with fine crochet cotton on a double foundation chain. for the outer edge work a row of purl stitches as follows:--1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 chain, 1 purl, consisting of 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st 2 chain, 1 double in the next stitch but 2; repeat from *. the open-work centre consists of 6 rows of scallops; the 1st of these rows is worked on the other side of the foundation chain; 1 double in the middle stitch of every scallop, 5 chain between, then 1 row of slip stitches, and finally a row of purl stitches like the 1st row of the insertion. for the raised flowers, which are fastened over the grounding at unequal distances, * make a foundation chain of 10 stitches, fasten it on over the grounding from illustration by taking the needle out of the loop, inserting it into the 1 chain of the grounding, and drawing the loop through; miss the last of the 10 chain, and work back over the others; 1 slip stitch, 1 double, 1 long double, 3 treble, 1 long double, 1 double, 1 slip stitch, then 1 slip stitch in the 1st stitch, * 9 chain, missing 5 stitches under them, 1 double in the 6th stitch; repeat from *. each following row consists of 1 double in the middle stitch of every scallop of the preceding row, 9 chain between. then work the 1st row of the border on the other side of the insertion; 1 double in the 1st stitch of the foundation, inserting the needle into the back part of the stitch; repeat 8 times more from *, and the flower is completed. [illustration: 284.--crochet insertion.] * * * * * 285.--_crochet garter_. materials: grey thread of medium size; fine red wool; fine round white elastic cord; a pearl button. this garter is worked in close double crochet, over fine elastic cord; the border and pattern in red wool, the centre in grey thread. [illustration: 285.--crochet garter.] begin in the middle by a chain of 98 stitches, with red wool; take the elastic cord, which must always be stretched out a little, and work over it. work on both sides of the foundation chain; the pattern is completed in the course of the two first rounds; the button-hole is made at the beginning of the first round; make a loop of 21 stitches, and, when you come to it, work over this loop instead of over the foundation chain. increase the number of stitches at either end of the garter, to round it off. when the second round is completed work two plain grey rounds, then a plain red one. the last round (grey thread) is composed of alternately 1 double, 1 purl formed of 3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the first, missing 1 stitch under the 1 purl. sew on a pearl button to correspond with the button-hole. the garter would be both more elegant and more elastic if worked entirely in silk. * * * * * 286.--_crochet trimming for a lady's chemise_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s crochet cotton, and a needle to match. this pattern, as can be seen in illustration, is an imitation of old guipure lace; it is worked all in one piece for the bosom and sleeves, and is part of one of the shoulder-pieces in full size. both strips of rosettes join at that place, and one is continued for the part round the bosom and the other for the sleeve. in the pattern there are 42 rosettes round the bosom, and 14 round each sleeve. these rosettes are fastened one to another in the course of the work. they are made in the following manner:--make a chain of 6 stitches, and join it into a ring. 1st round: 8 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th chain, which forms a purl (the 3 first chain are reckoned as 1 treble), 1 chain, 1 treble in the ring, * 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st to form a purl, 1 chain, 1 treble in the ring. repeat 6 times from *. instead of the last treble, work a slip stitch to fasten the end of the round to the 3 chain of the beginning, which thus form 1 treble. 2nd round: 9 chain (the 3 first to be reckoned as 1 treble), * 1 treble on the 1st treble of last round, 6 chain. repeat 6 times from *. 1 slip stitch in the treble at the beginning. 3rd round: on each scallop of preceding round work 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double. this completes the rosette. each rosette is fastened to the last by joining the 2 middle purl of both. in the illustration, which is full-size, the purl that are to be joined to those of another rosette are marked by a cross. the joining between the part round the bosom and the sleeve is made in the same manner. the space left between 4 rosettes is filled up with a star formed of chain stitches, marked in our illustration with an asterisk. for this star make a chain of 5 stitches, the 1st of which forms the centre; slip the loop you have on the needle through one of the 8 purl that are free, make 5 chain, 1 double in the centre stitch. repeat 7 times from *; then tie the two ends tightly, or sew them together 3 of these stars are required for each shoulder. [illustration: 286.--crochet trimming for a lady's chemise.] for the border.--it is worked at the same time both round the bosom and sleeves. 1st round: * 1 double in the centre purl of the 1st scallop of the rosette, which we will call the _first rosette_; 5 chain, 1 double in the centre purl of the 2nd scallop of the same rosette, 4 chain; then work the kind of cross which comes between each rosette (see illustration). to make this cross throw the cotton 3 times round the needle, work 1 double treble in the last purl left free of the 1st rosette, keep the last loop on the needle, throw the cotton twice round it, and work a double treble in the 1st purl left free in the 2nd rosette, throw the thread twice round the needle, work 1 treble with the loop left on the needle, make 2 chain, and work 1 treble in the last double treble, which completes the cross; make 4 chain. repeat from * at each slit on the shoulders; after the last cross make 6 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 2 purl at the end of the slit, 6 chain to come to the next space, where a cross is to be made. 2nd round: work alternately 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2; at the slit on the shoulders work 6 double over the 6 chain. the two rounds just explained are also worked round the upper edge, and finished round the sleeves by the following round:--1 double in one of the spaces in last round, * 6 chain, 1 double in the 2nd of the 6 chain, which forms a purl, 1 chain, 1 double on the next but one of the last round, 6 chain, 1 double in the 2nd of the 6 chain, 1 chain, 1 double in the next space. repeat from *. on the upper edge of the bosom, between the 1st and 2nd rounds of the border, work 1 round of crosses, but throwing the cotton twice only round the needle, so that the treble stitches are not double; make 3 chain between each cross. * * * * * knitting. 287.--knitting, though considered to be an old-fashioned art, is by no means so ancient as lacemaking. knitting has never entirely quitted the hands of english and german ladies; indeed, among all good housewives of any civilised country, it is reckoned an indispensable accomplishment. knitting schools have been established of late years both in ireland and scotland, and her majesty the queen has herself set an example of this industry, as well as largely patronised the industrial knitters of scotland. of the rudiments of this useful art many ladies are at present ignorant; it is in the hope of being useful to these that the following instructions are offered. to knit, two, three, four, or five needles, and either thread, cotton, silk, or wool are required. knitting needles are made of steel, of ivory, or of wood; the size to be used depends entirely upon the material employed, whether thread, cotton, silk, single or double wool, for knitting. as the size of the needles depends upon that of the cotton, a knitting gauge is used (see no. 287). the gauge (page 290) is the exact size of messrs. h. walker and co.'s knitting gauge. our readers will remark that english and foreign gauges differ very essentially; the finest size of german needles, for example, is no. 1, which is the size of the coarsest english wooden or ivory needle. straight knitting is usually done with two needles only for round knitting for socks, stockings, &c., three, four, and five needles are employed. [illustration: 287.--knitting gauge.] * * * * * 288.--_casting on_. this term is used for placing the first row or round of knitting stitches on the needles--"casting them on"--and is done in two ways--by "knitting on" the stitches, or as follows:-hold the thread between the first and second finger of the left hand, throw it over the thumb and first finger so as to form a loop, and pass the needle in the loop; throw the thread lightly round the needle, pass it through the loop, and draw up the thread; this forms the first stitch (see no. 288). [illustration: 288.--casting on.] 289.--_to knit on_. [illustration: 289.--knitting on.] take the needle on which the stitches are cast in the left hand, and another needle in the right hand--observe the position of the hands (no. 289). hold the left-hand needle between the thumb and third finger, leaving the first finger free to move the points of the needles. (the wonderful sense of touch in the first or index finger is so delicate, that an experienced knitter can work without ever looking at her fingers, by the help of this touch only--in fact, knitting becomes a purely mechanical labour, and as such is most useful.) insert the point of the right-hand needle in the loop or stitch formed on the left-hand needle, bring the thread once round, turning the point of the needle in front under the stitch, bringing up the thread thrown over, which in its turn becomes a stitch, and is placed on the left-hand needle. 290.--_simple knitting (plain)_. [illustration: 290.--plain knitting.] pass the right-hand needle into the 1st stitch of the left-hand needle, at the back throw the thread forward, and with the first finger pass the point of the needle under the stitch in forming a fresh stitch with the thread already thrown over, as in "knitting on," only, instead of placing the newly-formed stitch on the left-hand needle, leave it on the right-hand needle, and let the stitch drop off the point of the left-hand needle. continue thus until all the stitches are taken from the left to the right-hand needle, and the row is then complete. 291.--_to purl, pearl, or seam_. seaming or purling a stitch is done by taking up the stitch _in front_ instead of at the back, throwing the thread over and knitting the stitch as in plain knitting; but before beginning to purl, the thread must be brought in front of the needle, and if a plain stitch follows, the thread is passed back after the purl stitch is made (see no. 291). [illustration: 291.--purling.] 292.--_to increase_. increasing or making a stitch is done by throwing the thread once round the needle and in the next row knitting it as an ordinary stitch. [illustration: 292.--increasing.] 293.--_to decrease_. this is done in two ways: _firstly_, taking up two stitches and knitting them together as one; _secondly_, by taking up a stitch without knitting it, called slipping, then by knitting the following stitch in the usual way, and then slipping the 1st (unknitted) over the 2nd (knitted) (see no. 293). when it is necessary to decrease two stitches at once, proceed thus:--slip one, knit two stitches together, then slip the unknitted stitch over the two knitted together. [illustration: 293.--decreasing.] 294.--_round knitting_. to knit a round four or five needles are used; it is thus that stockings, socks, cuffs, mittens, &c., are made. to knit with four needles, cast on, say, 32 stitches upon one needle, insert a second needle in the last stitch of the first, and cast on 30 stitches; proceed in a similar way with a third needle, but casting on 28 only; when this is done, knit the two extra stitches on the first needle on to the last; this makes 30 stitches upon each needle, and completes the round. 295.--_casting off_. knit two stitches, and with the left-hand needle slip the first stitch over the second; continue this to the end of the row. _note_.--the last knitted row, before casting off, should be knitted loosely. 296.--_to pick up a stitch_. this is done by taking up the thread between two stitches and forming a stitch with it. * * * * * the following designs of new stitches can be used for a variety of work:-297.--_peacock's tail pattern_. needles, wood or ivory; messrs. walter evans and co.'s knitting cotton. [illustration: 297.--peacock's tail pattern.] cast on a number of stitches divisible by nine, as it takes nine stitches for each pattern, and two for each border; the border, which is in plain knitting, will not be mentioned after the first row. 1_st row_.--2 plain for border; 2 plain *, make 1, 1 plain, repeat this four times from *, make 1, 2 plain; repeat from the beginning--then 2 plain for border. 2_nd row_.--2 purl, 11 plain, 2 purl; repeat. [illustration: 298.--spiral stitch.] 3_rd row_.--take 2 together, 11 plain, take 2 together; repeat. 4_th row_.--purl 2 together, purl 9, purl 2 together; repeat. 5_th row_.--take 2 together, 7 plain, take 2 together. begin from the 1st row. thirteen stitches are large enough for a stripe for a sofa-cover. these stripes should be sewn together after all are finished. * * * * * 298.--_spiral stitch_. materials: needles, thick steel or bone; double wool. this stitch is far more effective worked in thick wool than in cotton. it is done in stripes alternately wide and narrow. for wide stripes cast on twenty-one stitches, for narrow fifteen; this without counting the first and last stitch, the first being slipped, the last always plainly knitted. 1_st row_.--purl 3 together to end of row. 2_nd row_.--make 1, * 1 plain, make 2, repeat from * end by making the last stitch before the plain knitted one at end of row. * * * * * [illustration 299.--knotted stitch.] 299.--_knotted stitch_. materials: needles, wood or ivory; double wool. cast on 11 stitches. 1_st row_.--all plain, throwing the wool twice round the needle before each stitch. 2_nd row_.--each stitch on the needle is now composed of 3 threads of wool: knit the first plain, the second purl, the third plain; cast off the second over the third, and the first over the second; this leaves but one stitch; repeat from first row until a sufficient length is obtained. this pattern makes very pretty borders. * * * * * 300.--_knitted moss borders_. materials: steel needles; moss wool of several shades of green. cast on enough stitches for double the width required, say twenty, and knit very tightly in plain knitting, row by row, until a sufficient length has been obtained. cut off and place the strip on a sieve over a basin of boiling water, and cover it over. when it has absorbed the steam, and while wet, iron it with a box-iron. then cut the strip down the centre, and unravel the wool on each side. the threads of wool all curling, resemble moss. they are held firmly by the selvedge of the knitting. * * * * * 301.--_german brioche stitch_ materials: wood or ivory needles; wool. cast on an even number of stitches. all the rows are knitted as follows:--slip 1, taken as for purling, make 1, take 2 together. in the following rows the made stitch must always be slipped, the decreased stitch and the slipped stitch of the previous row knitted together. [illustration: 301.--german brioche stitch.] ordinary brioche stitch is made by casting on an even number of stitches, and working the rows as follows:-make 1, slip 1, take 2 together; repeat. _note_.--the made stitch and the slipped stitch of the previous row must always be knitted together, and the decreased stitch of that row slipped. * * * * * netting. 302.--netting is one of the prettiest and one of the easiest accomplishments of a lady. the materials are simple, while the effects produced by good netting are most elegant and of great durability. one great advantage of netting is that each stitch is finished and independent of the next, so that if an accident happens to one stitch it does not, as in crochet or knitting, spoil the whole work. netting, so easy to do, is most difficult to describe. the materials required are--a netting-needle and mesh (see illustration no. 302). these are made of bone, of wood, of ivory, and most commonly of steel. the wood, bone, and ivory are only used for netting wool, the steel for silk, cotton, &c. the needle is filled by passing the end of the thread through the little hole at the left-hand point, and tying it; then the thread is wound on the needle as on a tatting shuttle. the needles are numbered from 12 to 24; these last are extremely fine. the meshes correspond to the sizes of the needles, and are made of the same materials. the larger the size of the stitch required the thicker the mesh must be selected; indeed, large hat meshes are often used for some patterns. a stirrup to slip over the foot to which the foundation is attached is required by those who do not use a netting cushion, placed before them on the table and heavily weighted; to this the foundation is fastened. the stirrup is made of a loop of ribbon, to which the foundation is tied. some ladies work a pretty stirrup of the exact shape of a horseman's stirrup; a loop of ribbon is passed through this, and the foundation fixed as before. [illustration 302.--needle and mesh.] 303.--_to net_. place the mesh under the thread, between the thumb and finger of the left hand; it must rest on the middle of the finger and be held only by the thumb (see illustration no. 303). take the needle in the right hand, pass the thread over the middle and ring finger and over the mesh, pass the needle upwards and behind the mesh in the large loop which forms the thread round the fingers, and at the same time through the first stitch or loop of the foundation. draw the needle out, retaining the loops on the fingers and dropping them off, the little finger being the last to release the thread. as the thread tightens and the knot is firm, the loop on the little finger should be drawn up quickly and smartly. the next stitches are precisely similar, and row upon row is formed in the same manner. having learnt the stitch, the next task is to make a foundation. tie a large loop of strong thread on the stirrup ribbon, and net fifty stitches into this loop, then net four or five rows, and the foundation is ready. [illustration: 303.--netting.] simple netting as above explained forms diamonds or lozenges. when a piece of netting is finished it is cut off the foundation, and the little ends of thread that held the stitches are drawn out. 304.--_square netting_. is done precisely in the same manner as plain netting, only begin from one stitch, then net two stitches into this first, and increase by making two in the last loop of every row. as soon as the right number of stitches is complete diminish exactly in the same way by netting two stitches as one at the end of each row until one stitch alone remains. these squares are used for guipure d'art and for darning on. 305.--_round netting_ is nearly similar to plain netting. a little difference exists in the way of passing the needle through the stitch; this is shown in no. 305. after having passed the needle through the stitch it is drawn out and passed from above into the loop just made. this stitch is very effective for purses. [illustration: 305.--round netting.] 306.--_diamond netting_ is often called "pointed netting," and is made by netting from one stitch, increasing one stitch at the end of each row, and decreasing in the same way, as described at page 303. 307.--_to net rounds_. to form a circle, as for a purse, the needle must pass through the first stitch, keeping the last three or four on the mesh and removing this when required by the work. 308.--_"english" netting_ is made as follows:--net a row of plain netting, begin the second row by netting the second stitch, then net the first; repeat, always passing by one stitch and taking it up. _3rd row_.--plain. _4th row_.--begin by a plain stitch, then continue as in the 2nd row. _5th row_.--plain. [illustration: 308.--"english" netting.] 309.--_lace edging_. begin by one stitch and net two in one at the end of each row until as many stitches are required for the narrowest part of the edge. * increase one then in the two loops until the point of the edge or scallop is reached; at the next row leave the squares which form the point, and begin from *. 310.--_open lace_. this kind of edging is made with two meshes of different sizes and extremely fine crochet cotton. tie the thread to the foundation, net 3 rows with the small mesh of the required length. _4th row_.--on the large mesh, one stitch in each stitch. _5th row_.--on the small mesh take 3 stitches together to form 1 loop; repeat to end of row. _6th row_.--on the large mesh make 5 loops in each stitch; repeat to end of row. [illustration: 310.--open lace.] _7th row_.--on the small mesh, one loop in each of the 4 first stitches, pass over the 5th, repeat to end. _8th row_.--on the small mesh make a loop in each of the two first stitches, pass over the 4th; repeat. _9th row_.--on the small mesh make a loop in each of the two first stitches, pass over the 3rd; repeat. this lace is often used in fine wool of two colours to trim opera-caps, children's hoods, &c. 311.--_shell border_. this border is intended as an edging for square netting for couvrettes, d'oyleys, &c. the mesh must be three times as long as that employed for the square netting. make 12 stitches in the first stitch of the edge, pass over 8, make 12 in the ninth, and repeat. then take the mesh used for the square netting, and net one stitch in each stitch, take a still smaller mesh, and complete by adding another row of one stitch in each stitch. this border forms a very appropriate edging for all articles in square netting, as couvrettes, mats, also for trimming guipure d'art work, and should be netted in the row of holes edging the work; two sets of shells must be worked at the corners when a little fulness is required. [illustration: 311.--shell border.] * * * * * knitting and netting patterns 312.--_knitted sock for a child._ materials for 1 pair: 1 ounce of single berlin wool; 1 yard of narrow pink or blue ribbon; 2 fine steel pins. this sock fits well, and is easy to make. it is knitted upon two pins, backwards and forwards. cast on 22 stitches and knit 22 rows, but increase once at the end of every other row on the right side of the work, so that there are 33 stitches in the 22nd row. now cast off 28 stitches and knit 12 rows, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every other row. now 12 more rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of every other row; this forms the toe. cast on 28 stitches on the same needle, and knit 22 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of every other row, and cast off. pick up the 68 stitches on the upper part of shoe, and knit 20 rows, alternately 2 plain and 2 purl rows, decreasing 1 stitch on each side of the 12 stitches in every other row, which forms the toe and front of sock. knit 14 rows of 2 plain, 2 purl stitches alternately, then 3 open rows with 1 plain row between. the open rows are worked as follows:--* purl 2 together, purl 1, make 1, repeat *, 3 plain rows, 1 open row, 1 plain row, and cast off. the sock is sewn together down the back of leg, centre of sole, and the point joined like a gusset to form the toe. [illustration: 312.--knitted sock.] * * * * * 313.--_knitted pattern for counterpanes, berceaunette covers, couvrettes, antimacassars, &c._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s knitting cotton; 5 steel knitting-needles of a corresponding size. [illustration: 313.--knitted pattern for counterpanes, berceaunette covers, &c.] according to the size of the cotton employed, this beautiful square makes different articles, such as counterpanes, couvrettes, &c. &c. if worked with evans's cotton no. 10, it will be suitable for the first-mentioned purpose. begin the square in the centre, cast on 8 stitches, 2 on each needle; join them into a circle, and knit plain the 1st round. 2nd round: * knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1; repeat 3 times more from *. 3rd round: plain knitting. this knitted round is repeated after every pattern round. we shall not mention this again, nor the repetition from *. 4th round: * knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 6th round: * knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 8th round: * knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. the 9th to 18th rounds are knitted in the same manner, only in every other round the number of stitches between the 2 stitches formed by throwing the cotton forward increases by 2, so that in the 18th round 15 stitches are knitted between. 20th round: * knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 22nd round: * knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 4, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 24th round: * knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch; throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 26th round: * knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward 3 times alternately, slip 1, knit 1, draw the first over the last, throw the cotton forward; knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, draw the first over the last, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, three times alternately, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 28th round: * knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, four times alternately, throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch; throw the cotton forward, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch; knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, four times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 30th round: * knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, six times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1 six times alternately, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 32nd round: knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 6 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 stitches together, 6 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 34th round: * knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 7 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, knit 1, 7 times alternately knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 36th round: * knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 7 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 4 stitches together, 7 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 38th round: * knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 8 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the, slipped over the knitted stitch, 8 times alternately knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 40th round: * knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, 8 times alternately throw the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped over the knitted stitch, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 stitches together as 1 stitch, 8 times alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton torward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. you now have 41 stitches on each needle; knit 1 round, and cast off. when completed, the squares are joined together on the wrong side. * * * * * 314.--_knitted sleeping sock._ materials for one pair: 4 ounces white fleecy, 3 ply; 1 ounces light blue fleecy. [illustration: 314.--knitted sleeping sock.] these socks are knitted with white and blue wool in a diamond pattern, and in rounds like a stocking. begin at the upper part of the sock; cast on 103 stitches with blue wool on pretty thick steel knitting-needles, and knit 20 rounds of the diamond pattern as follows:-1st round: quite plain. 2nd round: purled; both these rounds are worked with blue wool. 3rd to 6th rounds: knitted plain with white wool. 7th round: with blue wool; knit 3, draw the wool through the next stitch of the 2nd round worked with blue wool, draw it out as a loop, keep it on the needle, knit again 3 stitches, and so on. 8th round: with blue wool; the loop which has been taken up on the preceding round is purled off together with the preceding stitch. repeat the 3rd and 8th rounds twice more; the loop of one round must be placed between those of the preceding one. then knit with white wool 31 rounds, alternately 2 stitches knitted, 2 stitches purled, then work the foot in the diamond pattern in the same way as usual for a stocking. the heel is formed by leaving 23 stitches on each side the seam stitch, and knitted backwards and forwards in the diamond pattern. at the toe decrease so that the decreasings form a seam on both sides of the toe. this is obtained by knitting the 3rd and 4th stitches of the 1st needle together; on the 2nd needle slip the 4th stitch before the last, knit the next stitch and draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one; decrease in the same manner on the other 2 needles of this round. repeat these decreasings exactly in the same direction and at the same places, so that there are always 4 stitches between the 2 decreasings at the end and at the beginning of 2 needles; they always take place after 3 or 2 plain rounds, and at last after 1 plain round. the remaining stitches are knitted off 2 and 2 together. to complete the sock, the outline of the sole is marked by working slip stitches with blue wool in crochet all round it; work also slip stitches on the selvedge stitch of the heel. the stocking is finished off at the top with a double round of loops in blue wool, worked over a mesh four-fifths of an inch wide. * * * * * _315 and 316.--netted fichu or cape._ material: fine wool, or white and blue silk; netting needle and meshes. this fichu or cape is made either with fine wool or with silk used three or four times double. it may be worn as an evening wrap, either over a cap or on the hair, or as a necktie. the ground in our pattern is white, the border blue. the illustration of the ground and of the border, in full size, will serve as a guide for the size of the meshes to be used. for the ground cast on the first mesh, with white silk, 56 stitches; work 2 rows on the 56 stitches. from the 3rd row, always miss the last stitch, so that each row is decreased 1 stitch. continue in this manner till the 39th row, when there will be but 19 stitches left. from the 40th row, miss 2 stitches at the end of each row. the ground is completed with the 46th row. the 1st row of the work is the _cross-way side_; the last, the _point at the bottom_; fasten on the blue silk to the 1st stitch of the 1st row, and on a larger mesh work 1 row round the ground of the fichu, not forgetting that the stitch on the outer edge at the sides must always be taken, and 2 stitches made in the 5th, 10th, 14th, [illustration: 315.--netted fichu, or cape, for evening dress.] 18th, 21st, 23rd, and 25th stitches at the sides, as well as in each of the 2 middle stitches of the last row; in each of the other stitches 1 stitch should be made. on the corners of the sides increase _once_, on the cross-way side, seven times in all. this forms the 1st round of the edging or lace. [illustration: 316.--showing the netting full size for border of fichu.] 2nd round of the lace: in each stitch make 2 stitches--still on the larger mesh. 3rd round: always miss the small flat scallop formed in last row, and work 2 stitches in the stitch which forms a tight loop. keep thus the same number of stitches, with which work 6 more rounds. for the last round, work 1 stitch in each _tight_ loop. * * * * * _317.--lady's knitted purse._ materials: 2 skeins of black purse silk; 2 skeins of scarlet ditto; black jet beads; a steel clasp with chain; a tassel of black beads; 5 steel knitting-needles. [illustration: 317.--lady's knitted purse.] this purse is knitted with black and scarlet purse silk, and ornamented with black beads and a black bead tassel. begin the purse with the black silk in the centre of the bottom part, and cast on for one part of it 7 stitches. knit 14 rows on these backwards and forwards, in such a manner that the work is knitted on one side and purled on the other. the 1st stitch of every row is slipped, the 1st row of this part is purled. * on that side where hangs the thread with which you work take the back chain of the 7 selvedge stitches of the part you have just knitted on a separate needle, and knit another part, which must have 15 rows, and the 1st row of which is knitted. repeat 10 times more from *. the stitches of several parts can be taken on the same needle, so as not to be hindered in working by too many needles. when the 12th part is completed, take the selvedge stitches on the left hand on another needle, cast them off together with the cast on stitches of the 1st part, and fasten the silk thread. then take the 7 right-hand selvedge stitches of one black part on a needle, take the red silk on which the beads have been strung and work 15 rows on these stitches, the 1st row from the wrong side, and therefore purled; in the 1st, as well as in all the other purled rows, the last stitch must be purled together with the next stitch of the next black part. in the purled rows, moreover, excepting in the first and last one, a bead must be worked in after casting off the 2nd, 4th, and 6th stitches. the stitch must be worked by inserting the needle into the back part, and in drawing through the silk which has been thrown forward, let the bead slide through the stitch so that it is on the right side of the work. in the following knitted row, the needle must also be inserted into the back part of the bead stitch. when 12 such red parts have been completed, work again 12 black parts on the selvedge stitch of the same, in which the beads are not knitted in, but sewn on afterwards, when the purse is completed. then work 3 times more alternately 12 red and 12 black parts; when the last 12 black parts have been completed cast off the stitches of the last black part together with the selvedge stitches, the 1st on the wrong side; the stitches of the 6th part are cast off in the same manner together with the selvedge stitches of the 7th. the red parts which remain to be worked on the black part are thus lessened by 2; the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, and the 7th, 8th, and 9th of these parts must be by 6 rows longer. then gather all the stitches and selvedge stitches of the 10 parts on 2 needles, in such a manner that the 2 black parts, the stitches and selvedge stitches of which have been cast off together, are placed on the sides of the purse, and knit as follows with black silk, first on the stitches of the one needle, and then on those of the other:--1 row knitted, knitting together every 3rd and 4th stitch; then work 3 rows backwards and forwards on the same number of stitches, which must be knitted on the right side; then work 8 rows more in the same manner, casting off the 2 first stitches of the 8 rows. then cast off all the remaining stitches, sew the beads on the black parts from illustration; also the clasp and bead tassel. * * * * * 318 to 320.--_knitted antimacassar or berceaunelle cover._ materials: grey and violot fleecy wool. [illustration: 318.--square for antimacassar.] this antimacassar, part of which is seen on no. 320, smaller than full size, is made of rosettes and small squares, which are knitted separately with violet and grey fleecy wool with fine knitting-needles. in the middle of each rosette sew on a tatted circle of grey wool. the edge of the antimacassar is ornamented with a grey woollen fringe. for each rosette cast on 6 stitches with violet wool, and knit 12 rows backwards and forwards in such a manner that the work is knitted on one side and purled on the other: the first of these 12 rows is purled, the first stitch of every row is slipped; * then take the first five selvedge stitches of the knitted part on a separate needle (on the side where the end of wool hangs down, leaving it unnoticed for the present), inserting the needle into the back chain of the stitch (the selvedge stitch which is next to the cast-on stitch remains, therefore, unworked upon), and knit on these a new part, which must have 13 rows; the first row is knitted, and in this row work 2 stitches in the first stitch, one purled and one knitted, so that this new part is equally six stitches wide. repeat 8 times more from *. after having worked several parts, the stitches can, of course, be taken on the same needle, so as not to increase the number of needles. when the 10th part is com-* *pleted, take the selvedge stitches of the left-hand side of the same on a separate needle, cast them off with the cast-on stitches of the first part, and fasten the wool. then take the 6 selvedge stitches on the right hand of one part on a separate needle; take the grey wool, and work on these stitches 13 rows backwards and forwards; the first row is knitted; it is worked on the right side of the work; in this, and in every following _knitted_ row, knit the last stitch together with the next stitch of the next violet part. when 10 such grey parts are completed (each of the remaining 9 parts consists of 13 rows, and begins with one knitted row), take all the stitches and the selvedge stitches of these parts on four needles and knit with these stitches, also with grey wool 1 row knitted, in which the 6 selvedge stitches must be decreased to 3 by knitting always 2 stitches together as 1 stitch; each of the other stitches is knitted as usual. then purl 2 rows with violet wool, and cast off. [illustration: 319.--rosette for antimacassar.] [illustration: 320.--part of antimacassar.] for the tatted circle in the centre of the rosette, work with grey wool a circle consisting of 1 double, and 11 times alternately 1 purl 3-10ths of an inch long, 2 double, then 1 purl and 1 double. the circle is sewn on the rosette, from illustration, with grey wool. no. 319 shows such a rosette full size. the small squares (_see_ no. 318) are worked with grey wool; cast on 36 stitches, join the stitches into a circle, and purl 2 rows. to form the corners, knit together 4 times 2 stitches after every 7 stitches in the first of these two rounds, in the second round knit together 2 stitches after every 6 stitches; these decreasings and those of the other rounds must always take place, at the same places as in the preceding round. then take the violet wool, and knit 7 rows; in the first of these knit 4 times 2 stitches together after intervals of 5 stitches; no decreasings take place in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th rows; in the 3rd row knit together 4 times 3 stitches as 1 stitch, and in the 5th and 7th rows 4 times 2 stitches as 1 stitch. after the 7th round, the remaining stitches are cast off together as 1 stitch. then fasten the wool and cut it off. lastly, sew the rosettes and squares together from no. 320 for a cover, and edge it round the border with a fringe of grey wool. * * * * * [illustration: 321.--knitted border.] 321.--_knitted border._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s no. 10 or no. 50 knitting cotton. if knitted with thick cotton, this border will be suitable for trimming a quilt or berceaunette cover; if, on the contrary, fine cotton is used, the pattern will form a very pretty collar for a little boy or girl. to make a collar, begin by a chain of 220 stitches, and work 6 rows backwards and forwards alternately, knitting 4 stitches and purling 2. in the 2nd, 4th, and 6th rows the 4 stitches are purled, and the 2 are knitted. 7th row: * purl 2, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. repeat from *. 8th row: alternately purl 5, knit 2. all the rows with _even_ numbers are knitted like this, except that the number of the knitted stitches are increased by 2 in each of them. we will not, therefore, henceforth mention these rows. 9th row: * knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. repeat from *. 11th row: * knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. repeat from *. 13th row: * knit 2, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2, purl 2. repeat from *. the pattern is continued in the same manner. the small gores formed between the ribs are increased by 2 stitches in every second row. each of these gores has 13 stitches in the 21st row, which is the last. cast off all the stitches after this row. take a crochet needle, and with the same cotton as that used for the knitting work 1 stitch of double crochet in every stitch of the selvedge, then the 2 following rows for the edging. 1st row: alternately 1 treble, 1 chain, under which miss 1. 2nd row: alternately 1 double over 1 treble of preceding row, 1 purl (that is, 5 chain and 1 slip stitch in the first), under which miss 1. over the first row of the knitting work 1 row of close double crochet. the border is now completed. * * * * * 322.--_knee-cap in knitting._ materials: for 1 pair, 4 oz. pink 4-thread fleecy wool, and a small quantity of white ditto. begin each knee-cap by casting on with pink wool 114 stitches, equally divided upon 4 needles, and joining them into a circle. upon this number of stitches work 47 rounds, alternately knitting and purling 2 stitches. in the 48th round begin the gore which covers the knee; it is worked separately backward and forwards, always alternately knitting and purling 2 stitches. [illustration: 322.--knee-cap in knitting.] after 2 rows change the pattern, so as to form small squares knit the first row of this gore upon 26 stitches slipped off from the last row on to a separate needle. at the end of each following row knit the nearest stitch of the nearest needle, so as to increase 1 stitch in each row of the gore. continue in this way until only 42 stitches remain of the ribbed part. after this work the remainder of the gore separately, decreasing once at the beginning and end of each row till only 26 stitches remain; then take up 23 stitches of the selvedge on each side of these 26 stitches, and work 47 rounds, alternately knitting and purling 2 stitches. the edging at the top and bottom of the knee-cap is worked in crochet. with white wool make a chain of 50 stitches; turn and work 1 row of crochet _à tricoter_; then work a second row thus: the first part, as usual, with white, but coming back, with pink make 4 chain between each stitch, work in the same way on the other side of the foundation chain, thus forming a small ruche, and sew it on to the edge of the knitting. * * * * * 323.--_knitted neckerchief in black shetland wool._ material: black shetland wool. this three-cornered neckerchief is knitted in the following pattern (commencing at the corner). 1st row: slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together, inserting the needle into the back part of the stitch, slip 1, make 1, knit 2 together. 2nd row: knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in the preceding row; the other stitches are purled. in the next row the holes are alternated; the neckerchief must of course be increased at the beginning and end of every other row. it measures at the upper edge 1 yard 16 inches across from one corner to the other; the lower corner is rounded off. the neckerchief is edged with a knitted lace. [illustration: 323.--knitted neckerchief in shetland wool.] the lace is worked in rows backwards and forwards, the cross way. cast on 22 stitches and work the 1st row as follows:--slip 1, knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6. 2nd row: slip 1, purl 18, knit 1 and purl 1 with the stitch formed in the preceding row by throwing the wool forward. 3rd row; slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 5. 4th row: slip 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1 in the stitch formed in the preceding row by throwing the wool forward, purl 13. 5th row: slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 4. 6th row: slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 9. 7th row: slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward 4 times alternately, knit 2 together, knit 4. 8th row: slip 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in the preceding row, purl 13. 9th row: slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, 5 times alternately; knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2. 10th row: slip 1, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 5. 11th row: slip 1, knit 2 together, 6 times alternately knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 1. 12th row: slip 1, knit 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13. 13th row: slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, 5 times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 2. 14th row: slip 1, purl 10, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 5. 15th row: slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 4, knit 2 together, 4 times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 3. 16th row: slip 1, purl 3, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13. 17th row: slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, 3 times alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 4. 18th row: slip 1, purl 8, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 9. 19th row: slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 8, knit 2 together, twice alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 5. 20th row: slip 1, purl 5, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row, purl 13. 21st row: slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 10, knit 2 together, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, knit 6. 22nd row: slip 1, purl 6, knit 1, purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in preceding row. 23rd row: slip 1, throw the wool forward, knit 12, knit 2 together, knit 7. 24th row: purled. repeat from the 1st row till the lace is sufficiently long. then sew on the lace round the edge; the lace can be knitted somewhat narrower for the upper edge. one of the ends of the neckerchief is knotted, as seen in the illustration, and the other end is drawn through the knot. * * * * * _324 and 325.--knitted bodice without sleeves._ materials: 4 ounces black, 3-1/2 ounces purple fleecy; black silk elastic; a steel buckle; 9 black bone buttons. this bodice is knitted in brioche stitch with black and purple wool, so that the raised ribs appear black on one side and purple on the other. the bodice fits quite close. it is fastened in front with black bone buttons and a steel buckle. two strips of silk elastic are knitted in at the bottom. begin at the bottom of the bodice with black wool, and cast on 170 stitches. the needles must be rather fine, and the knitting not too loose. work backwards and forwards 24 rows as follows:--slip the 1st stitch, alternately throw the wool forward, slip 1 as if you were going to purl it, and knit 1. in the next row knit together the stitch which has been slipped and the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward, slip the knitted stitch, after having thrown the wool forward. in the 25th row take the purple wool and work 1 row as before. [illustration: 324.--knitted bodice without sleeves (back).] [illustration: 325.--knitted bodice without sleeves (front).] now work alternately 1 row with black wool and 1 row with purple, but as the wool is not cut off, the brioche stitch must be alternately knitted and purled. work always 2 rows on the same side from right to left. the following 26th row is worked with black wool in common brioche stitch, only the slipped stitch of the preceding row is purled together with the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward. 27th row: turn the work, with purple wool purled brioche stitch. 28th row: on the same side with black wool knitted brioche stitch. after having worked 40 rows all in the same manner, begin the front gore. divide the stitches upon three needles, 82 stitches on one needle for the back, and 44 stitches for each front part on the two other needles. then work the first 11 stitches of the left front part (this row must be worked on that side of the work upon which the ribs appear purple) in knitted brioche stitch; the 11th stitch must have a slipped stitch, with the wool thrown forward, therefore it is a purple rib. after this stitch begin the gore with the following 13 stitches. the ribs are then worked so that a purple one comes over a black one, and a black one over a purple one. do not work upon the following black stitch; knit the following stitch with the one formed by throwing the wool forward. throw the wool forward, and then only slip the black stitch which had been left, so that it comes behind the stitch which has just been knitted. this crossing of the stitch is repeated once more, then knit the following stitch together with the one formed by throwing the wool forward, throw the wool forward, slip the crossed black stitch and the two following single black stitches. the slipped stitch and the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward before the 3rd single black stitch are then knitted together, so that the crossed stitches are placed in opposite directions. the three black stitches which are knitted off together as 1 stitch in the next row form the middle line of the front gore, and are continued in a straight line to the point of the gore. the crossing takes place twice in this row, but now the black stitch is slipped first. after the 24th stitch knit together the following stitch with the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward. then continue to work in common brioche stitch to the other front part, where the gore begins before the 24th stitch from the end. in the next row, which is worked in purled brioche stitch with black wool, take up the black loop between two purple ribs after the 11th stitch; purl it so as to form the stitch which is missing at that place. the 3 slipped stitches in the preceding row are purled together as one stitch with the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward between the ribs. the loop is also taken up on the other side of the front gore in the same manner, as well as on the other front part. then work 6 rows without increasing or decreasing. the crossing of the stitch is repeated after every 7 rows, always on the knitted brioche stitch side, with purple wool. in the 18th row of the gore the 3 middle stitches are not knitted together, but separately, so that the pattern must be decreased in 26 rows. in the back 30 stitches only must be decreased, two in every 6th row. after the 60th row another decreasing takes place on the outer edges of the front parts for the neck; they decrease 2 stitches (1st rib) after the 5th stitch from the front edge in every 3rd row. the 5 stitches which close to the neck are cast off together with the 5 stitches on the shoulders. then cast off loosely the stitches of the back; take all the selvedge stitches of the front on the needles, and knit 24 rows of brioche stitch with black wool, making 9 button-holes on the right front part. on the wrong side of this part sew on a strip of black silk, with slits worked round in button-hole stitch, stitching at the same time into the knitting. the following scallops are knitted round the top of the jacket and round the armholes with black wool:--take the selvedge stitches on the needles, work 4 rows alternately, 1 stitch knitted, 1 stitch purled, thread the wool into a berlin wool-work needle, * cast off 3 stitches together, draw the wool through the needle, and take the 2 following stitches on the wool in the worsted-needle; repeat from *. sew on the buttons the strips of silk elastic on either side of the black stripe at the bottom, and fasten the ends of the latter with the steel buckle. _326.--baby's boot._ materials for one pair: 1/2 ounce red, 1/2 ounce white, berlin wool; steel knitting-needles. this pretty boot consists of a shoe knitted in red wool, and a sock in white wool ornamented with red. begin the knitting with the upper scalloped edge of the latter. cast on 96 stitches with red wool, divide them on four needles, and knit in rounds as follows:--1st and 2nd rounds: with red wool, purled. 3rd to 8th round: with white wool. 3rd round: knitted. 4th round: * knit 4, throw the wool forward, knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 4, knit 3 together. repeat 7 times more from *. 5th round: knitted; the stitches formed by throwing the wool forward are knitted as one stitch. knit 3 stitches together at the place where 3 stitches were knitted together in the 4th round, so that the decreasing of the preceding round forms the middle stitch of the 3 stitches to be decreased in this round. 6th and 7th rounds: like the 5th. 8th round: knitted; you must have 48 stitches left. 9th to 11th round: with red wool. 9th round: knitted. 10th and 11th rounds: purled. 12th to 30th round: with white wool. 12th round: knitted. 13th round to 30th round: alternately purl 1, knit 1, inserting the needle in the back part of the stitch. 31st to 33rd round: with red wool. 31st round: knitted. 32nd round and 33rd round: purled. 34th and 35th rounds: with white wool. 34th round: knitted. 35th round: alternately throw the wool forward, knit 2 together. each stitch formed by throwing the wool forward is knitted as one stitch in the next round. 36th to 38th round: with red wool. 36th round: knitted. 37th and 38th rounds: purled. 39th to 47th round: with white wool. alternately purl 1, slip 1, as if you were going to purl it; the wool must lie in front of the slipped stitch; in the following rounds take care to purl the slipped stitches. [illustration 326.--baby's boot.] take now 18 stitches for the front gored sock part (leave 30 stitches untouched), and work backwards and forwards with red wool. 48th to 50th row: with red wool. 48th row: knitted. 49th row: purled. 50th row: knitted. 51st to 85th row: with white wool in the pattern described in the 39th round. but as you work backwards and forwards you must alternately knit and purl the stitches. decrease 1 stitch at the beginning and at the end of the 84th and 85th rows; decrease 1 stitch in the middle of the 85th row, so that the 85th row has 13 stitches left. after this work with red wool. 86th row: knitted. 87th row: knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1. repeat these last 2 rows 3 times more and knit plain to the 94th, decreasing one, however, on each side. now work with the whole number of stitches, taking up the selvedge stitches of the gored part and dividing them with the 30 other stitches on four needles. knit once more in rounds; the next 20 rounds are alternately 1 round knitted, 1 round purled. in the 2 last knitted rounds decrease twice close together in the middle of the back part of the shoe. knit 8 rounds; in every other round decrease twice in the middle of the front of the shoe, leaving 9 stitches between the two decreasings. the number of stitches between the decreasings decreases with every round, so that the decreasings form slanting lines meeting in a point. cast off after these 8 rounds, by knitting together 2 opposite stitches on the wrong side. the sock part is edged with a raised red border, which is worked by taking all the red stitches of the 1st round of the shoe on the needle and knitting 4 rounds, so as to leave the purled side of the stitch always outside; then cast off very tight. draw a piece of braid through the open-work row in the sock part, and finish it off at either end with tassels to match. * * * * * 327.--_knitted border for a bedquilt_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s no. 8 white knitting cotton; thick steel pins. cast on a sufficient number of stitches for the length of the border, which must be able to be divided by 31; knit 4 plain rows: 5th row: alternately make 1, knit 2 together. then 5 more plain rows. [illustration 327.--knitted border for a bedquilt.] now begin the pattern:--1st row: * make 1, knit 1 _slantways_ (to knit a stitch slantways, insert the needle from the front to the back and from right to left); # purl 5; knit 1 slantways. repeat from # 4 times more than from * to the end of the row. 2nd row: purled. 3rd row: knit 2, * make 1; knit 1 slantways; # purl 5; knit 1 slantways. repeat from # four times more. repeat from * to the end of the row. 4th row: the same as the second. the continuation of the work is clearly shown in our illustration. the increasing caused by knitting the _made_ stitches is regularly repeated in each second row, so that the stitches between the striped divisions increase, and form large triangles; the striped divisions, on the other hand, are narrowed so as to form the point of the triangles. to obtain this result, decrease five times in the 6th, 12th, 18th, and 24th rows, by purling together the two last stitches of one purled division, so that each division has but eleven stitches left in the 25th row. in the 28th row knit together one purled stitch with one knitted slantways, so that there will be only 6 stitches left for each division; these stitches are knitted slantways in the 29th and 30th rows. in the 31st row they are knitted together, two and two. there remain in each division three more stitches, which are knitted together in the 34th row. two rows entirely purled completethe upper edge of the border. * * * * * 328.--_knitted quilt._ materials: 8-thread fleecy wool; wooden needles. this pattern may be worked in narrow strips of different colours, and in that case each strip should contain 1 row of patterns; or the quilt may be composed of wide strips with several rows of patterns, those of one row being placed between those of the preceding. in the first case, that is if you work narrow strips, you may use several colours; but if wide strips are preferred, they should be of two colours only. our pattern was worked in wide strips, alternately grey and red. each strip is knitted the short way. [illustration: 318.--knitted quilt.] for a strip with five raised patterns in the width cast on 20 stitches. 2nd row: right side of the work. slip 1, purl 1, * make 1, purl 4. repeat from * 3 times more; make 1, purl 2. 3rd row: slip 1, knit all the stitches that were purled in the preceding row, and purl all those that were made. 4th row: slip 1, purl 1, * knit 1, make 1, purl 4. repeat from * 3 times more; knit 1, make 1, purl 2. 5th row: slip 1, knit all the purled stitches, purl all the rest. 6th row: slip 1, purl 1, * knit 2, make 1, purl 4. repeat from * 3 times more; knit 2, make 1, purl 2. 7th row: the same as the 5th. 8th row: slip 1, purl 1, * knit 3, make 1, purl 4, and so on. 9th row: the same as the 5th row. 10th row: slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2, purl 4, repeat from *. 11th row: knit all the purled stitches, purl all the rest. 12th row: slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1, purl 4, and repeat from *. 13th row: the same as the 11th. 14th row: slip 1, purl 1, * slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, purl 4, and repeat. 15th row: slip 1, * knit 2 together, knit 3. repeat from * 3 times more; knit 2 together, knit 2. the second row of patterns begins with the 16th row. there are only 4 in this 2nd row, so that after the 1st slipped stitch you purl 3 stitches instead of 1, and in the 2nd row, after the 4th made stitch, you purl 4 more stitches. repeat alternately these 2 rows of raised patterns, and when you have a sufficient number of strips sew them together. trim the quilt all round with a knotted fringe. * * * * * 329.--_stitch in knitting, for couvrettes, comforters, opera caps, carriage shawls, jackets, &c._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s knitting cotton no. 20, or fine wool. cast on an uneven number of stitches. 1st row: slip 1, * make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1. repeat from *. 2nd row: slip 1, * knit 2 together, and repeat from * to the end of the row. [illustration: 329.--stitch for couvrettes, comforters, &c.] * * * * * 330 _and_ 331.--_knitted veil._ material: fine shetland wool. [illustration: 330.--knitted veil.] illustration 330 represents a knitted veil in reduced size. the original was worked with fine shetland wool in an open pattern; it is edged with a knitted lace. its length is 24 inches, its width 18 inches. work the veil from a paper pattern of a shape corresponding to that of illustration 330. compare the paper shape often with the knitting in the course of the work, and try to keep them alike. knit the veil in the pattern of the original, or in the pattern of illustration 331. for the former one begin at the lower edge of the veil, cast on 45 stitches upon thick wooden needles, and work the 1st row: * knit 2, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together twice, repeat from *. 2nd row: purled. 3rd row: knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together, * throw the wool forward, knit 2 together twice, and repeat from *. 4th row: purled. 5th row: like the 2nd row. the pattern must be reversed. the pattern figures increase with the increasings at the beginning and at the end of each row. the pattern of illustration 331 consists of the 2 following rows:--1st row: slip 1, then alternately throw the wool forward, and knit 2 together. 2nd row: entirely knitted; make 1 stitch of the wool thrown forward in the last row. when the veil is finished, wet it, and stretch it over paper or pasteboard; let it dry, and then edge it with the following lace:--cast on 10, knit the 1st. 2nd row: knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 9. 3rd row: knitted. 4th row: knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together twice, knit 4. 5th row: knitted. 6th row: knit 1, throw the wool forward, knit 2, throw the wool forward, knit 2 together 3 times, knit 3. 7th row: cast off 3 stitches, knit 10. 8th row: knitted. [illustration: 331. pattern of veil.] [illustration: 332.--knitted pattern with embroidery.] * * * * * 332.--_knitted pattern with raised embroidery_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s knitting cotton no. 8 or 20. this pattern is worked in rows going backwards and forwards with thick or fine cotton according to the use you wish to make of it. the star-like figures on the knitted squares are worked with soft cotton in _point de poste_. cast on a number of stitches long enough (19 stitches are necessary for the two squares), work the 1st row: * knit 11 stitches, alternately 4 times knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward. repeat from *, the 2nd row is worked like the 1st, only purled, in this row, as well as in the following ones, the stitch must be knitted with the cotton thrown forward _after_ the stitch, the last stitch of a plain square with the first cotton thrown forward of the open-work figure. the number of stitches in the last must always be 8. the pattern consists alternately of these two rows. each pattern contains 12 rows, with the 13th the squares are reversed. the star figures are embroidered with double cotton by working 5 chain stitch in the middle of each square; draw the needle underneath the knitting to the next centre of a square. * * * * * 333 _and_ 334.--_knitted table cover, (see page 578.)_ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s coarse knitting cotton; thick steel knitting-needles. [illustration: 333.--table-cover border.] this cover is suitable for either a large or a small table, as the pattern may be increased as much as required. it is suitable for antimacassars. cast on 4 stitches, join them into a circle, and work the 1st round four times alternately. throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 2nd round: entirely knitted. 3rd round: * throw the cotton forward, knit 1. repeat 7 times more from *. after every pattern round knit 1 round plain. until after the 21st round, we shall not mention this any more. 5th round: * throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *. from the 7th to the 12th round the knitted stitches in every other round increase by 1 stitch, so that in the 12th round there are 7 stitches between those formed by throwing the cotton forward. 13th round: * throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together *. 15th round: * throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together *. 17th round: * throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together *. 19th round: * throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, *. 21st round: * knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *. 22nd round: * knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 3 *. 23rd round: * knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 *. 24th round: * knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 5 *. 25th round: * knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 4. 26th round: entirely knitted *. 27th round: * throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton forward, knit 1 *. 28th round: entirely knitted. 29th round: * knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *. 30th round: entirely knitted. 31st round: * knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 *. 32nd round: entirely knitted. 33rd round: * knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton forward, knit 4 *. 34th round: * knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 5 *. 35th round: * knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw the cotton forward, knit 5 *. 36th round: * knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 6 *. 37th round: * throw the cotton forward, knit 5 three times, throw the cotton forward, knit 1 *. 38th round: * knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 8 *. 39th round: * knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 3. throw the cotton forward, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 *. 40th round: * knit 9, knit 3 together, knit 10*. 41st round: * knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 15, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 *. 42nd round: * knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 11, knit 2 together, knit 4 *. 43rd round: * knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 13, throw the cotton forward, knit 4 *. 44th round: * knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 5 *. when the cover is completed, edge it all round, with the following border worked the short way:--cast on 5 stitches and knit the 1st row, slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2. 2nd row: slip 1, knit the rest. repeat this row after every pattern row. 3rd row: slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 5th row: slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2. 7th row: slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 9th row: slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2. 11th row: slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1. 13th row: slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2. 15th round: cast off 8 stitches, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 16th round: entirely knitted. begin again at the 1st row, knit a sufficient length of the border, and then trim the cover with it on the outer edge. [illustration: 335.--looped knitting.] * * * * * 335.--_looped knitting._ materials: 4-thread fleecy wool; 2 wooden knitting-needles; 1 flat wooden mesh. cast on a sufficient number of stitches, and knit the 1st row plain. 2_nd row_.--slip the 1st stitch; insert the needle into the next stitch, and throw the cotton forward as if you were going to knit the stitch; place the mesh behind the needle in the right hand, and turn the wool which is on this needle upwards, bring it back again on the needle so that it is wound once round the mesh, and twice round the needle. then only the double stitch through the second stitch, knit it, and insert the needle into the next stitch, and repeat what has been explained. knit the last stitch without a loop. 3_rd row_.--before drawing out the mesh, turn the work and knit one plain row. every double stitch is knitted as one stitch, so as to attain the same number of stitches as in the 1st row. 4_th row_.--like the 2nd row. repeat these rows as often as required. this knitting is chiefly used for borders of mats. * * * * * [illustration: 336.--pattern for comforters.] 336.--_knitted pattern for comforters._ materials: 4-thread fleecy; 2 wooden knitting-needles. cast on a sufficient number of stitches. 1st row: * 3 stitches in the first stitch, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit 3 stitches together, repeat from *. 2nd row: plain knitting. 3rd row: purled. 4th row: knitted. repeat these four rows, only in the next row the 3 stitches knitted together are worked on the 3 stitches worked in 1 stitch, and the 3 stitches to be worked in 1 stitch are to be placed on the one formed by knitting 3 stitches together. * * * * * 337.--_knitted d'oyley. (see page 579.)_ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s crochet cotton no. 36; glazed embroidery cotton no. 10; steel knitting-needles. this pattern is knitted with very fine crochet cotton. the middle part as well as the lace border are worked separately; the latter is sewn on to the middle part. the spots in the thick parts are worked in afterwards with coarser cotton. commence the pattern in the centre, cast on 6 stitches, join them into a circle, and knit 2 plain rounds. 3rd round: alternately knit 1, throw the cotton forward. 4th and 5th rounds: plain. 6th round: alternately knit 1, throw the cotton forward. 7th round: plain. every other round is plain. we shall not mention these plain rounds any more. 8th round: knit 2, * throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3; repeat from * to the end of the round; lastly, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 10th round: * throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. 12th round: * throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. 14th round: * throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. 16th round: * throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. the 18th, 20th, 22nd, and 24th rounds are worked like the 16th round; only the middle plain part of the pattern figures increases by 2 stitches in every pattern round, so that there are 15 plain stitches in the 24th round between the 2 stitches formed on either side of the same by throwing the cotton forward. 26th round: * throw the cotton forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together. 28th round: * throw the cotton forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1. 30th round: * knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, throw the cotton forward knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 6, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward. 32nd round: * knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 13, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward. 34th round: * knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward. 36th round: * knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward. 38th round: * knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 7, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward. 40th round: * knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward. 42nd round: * knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward. 44th round: * knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward. 45th and 46th rounds: plain, then cast off loosely. for the lace border, which is worked in the short way backwards and forwards, cast on 22 stitches and knit as follows:--1st row: slip 1, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. 2nd row: slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 11. 3rd row: slip 1, knit 9, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 4th row: slip 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 7, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 9. 5th row: slip 1, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 9, throw the cotton forward, knit 1. 6th row: knit 2 together (knit together the stitch and the next stitch formed by throwing the cotton forward), throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 5, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 10. 7th row: slip 1, knit 10, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together (stitch formed by throwing the cotton forward and the next stitch). 8th row: knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 12. 9th row: slip 1, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 5, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 2, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. 10th row: knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 14. 11th row: slip 1, knit 11, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 1, throw the cotton forward, knit 3 together. then begin again on the 2nd row, and work on till the border is long enough; sew the lace on to the centre, slightly gathering the former. lastly, work in the spots with glazed or coarse embroidery cotton. * * * * * _338.--knitted braces_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s knitting cotton no. 8 or 12. these braces are knitted with coarse white cotton, taken double; the braces themselves are worked in brioche stitch, the lappets are knitted plain. begin at the bottom of the front lappet, make a foundation chain of 14 stitches, knit 5 rows plain backwards and forwards, then divide the stitches into two halves to form the button-hole; knit 15 rows on each of the halves consisting of 7 stitches; then take the 14 stitches again on one needle and work 17 rows on them. then work a second button-hole like the first one; knit 6 more rows plain, increasing 1 at the end of every row, so that the number of stitches at the end of the lappet is 20. then begin the pattern in brioche stitch; it is worked as follows:--knit first 1 row, then slip the first stitch of the first following pattern row, * throw the cotton forward, slip the next stitch (slip the stitches always as if you were going to purl them), knit 2 together; repeat 5 times more from *; the last stitch is knitted. 2nd row of the pattern: slip the 1st stitch, * knit 2; the stitch which has been formed in the preceding row by throwing the cotton forward is slipped after the 2nd knitted stitch; repeat 5 times more from *; knit the last stitch. 3rd row: slip the 1st stitch, * decrease 1 (here, and in all the following rows, knit the next stitch together with the stitch before it, which has been formed in the preceding row by throwing the cotton forward), throw the cotton forward, slip 1; repeat from *; knit the last stitch. 4th row: slip the 1st stitch, * knit 1, slip the stitch which has been formed in the preceding row by throwing the cotton forward, knit 1, knit the last stitch. repeat these 4 rows till the braces are long enough. the pattern is 19 inches long. then knit 6 rows plain, decreasing 1 at the end of every row, then work each lappet separately, dividing the stitches so that each lappet is 7 stitches wide. each lappet has 72 rows; after the first 18 rows make a button-hole as described for the preceding one. work 18 rows between the 1st and 2nd button-hole. the lappets are rounded off by decreasing after the 2nd button-hole. [illustration: 338.--knitted braces.] * * * * * 339.--_pattern for knitted curtains, &c._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s knitting cotton no. 8. this pattern is suitable for knitting different articles, according to the thickness of the cotton used. the number of stitches must be divided by ten. the pattern is knitted backwards and forwards. [illustration: 339.--pattern for knitted curtains.] 1st row: all plain. 2nd row: * knit 1, make 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 5, knit 2 together, make 2. repeat from *. 3rd row: purl the long stitch formed by making 2 in preceding row, * make 2, purl 2 together, purl 3, purl 2 together, make 2, purl 3. repeat from *. (by _make_ 2 is meant twist the cotton twice round the needle, which forms one long stitch, and is knitted or purled as such in next row.) 4th row: knit 3, * make 2, slip 1, knit 1, and pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 5. repeat from *. 5th row: purl 3, * make 2, purl 3 together, make 2, purl 7. repeat from*. 6th row: knit 3, * knit 2 together (1 stitch and 1 long stitch), make 2, knit 1, make 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (the knitted stitch is a _long stitch_), knit 5. repeat from *. continue the pattern by repeating always from the 2nd to the 5th row; the 6th row is the repetition of the 2nd row, but it is begun (compare the two rows) about the middle of the 2nd row, so as to change the places of the thick diamonds in the following pattern. this will be easily understood in the course of the work. * * * * * _340.--knitted insertion._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s knitting cotton no. 20 or 30. cast on 14 stitches, and knit in rows, backwards and forwards, as follows:--1st row: slip 1, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, knit 2, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, knit 3. this row is repeated 18 times more; the stitch formed by throwing the cotton forward is knitted as 1 stitch. 20th row: slip 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1; place next 3 stitches upon another needle behind the cotton, and leave them alone; knit 1, knit 2 together, throw cotton forward, now knit the first 2 of the 3 stitches which have been left; knit the last of the 3 together with the next stitch on the needle, throw cotton forward, knit 3. repeat these 20 rows till strip is long enough. [illustration: 340.--knitted insertion.] * * * * * 341 _and_ 342.--_knitted cover for sofa cushion._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s knitting cotton no. 12; eight ply fleecy wool. [illustration: 341.--stitch for sofa cover.] this cushion (15 inches wide, 12 inches high) is made of grey calico; it is covered on one side with knitting, worked with grey crochet cotton. the knitted cover has an open-work pattern, worked backwards and forwards on a number of stitches which can be divided by 2, and which must suit the width of the cushion, in the following manner:--1st row: alternately throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. 2nd row: slip 1, knit the other stitches. the stitch formed by throwing the cotton forward is knitted as 1 stitch. 3rd row: knit 1, * throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. repeat from *; after the last decreasing knit 1. 4th row: like the 2nd row. these four rows are repeated till the cover is sufficiently large. draw a narrow piece of red worsted braid through every other open-work row of the pattern, as can be seen in illustration 341. when the cushion has been covered with the knitting, it is edged all round with a border knitted the long way, in the above-mentioned open-work pattern; it is 14 rows wide, and also trimmed with worsted braid: a fringe of grey cotton and red wool, 3 1/4 inches wide, is sewn on underneath the border at the bottom of the cushion; to this is added a thick red worsted cord, by which the cushion is hung on over the back of an arm-chair. the cushion, on account of its simplicity, is especially suitable for garden chairs. [illustration: 342.--sofa cushion.] * * * * * 343.--netted nightcap. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s crochet cotton no. 12. this cap is netted with crochet cotton over a mesh measuring three-quarters of an inch round; work first a long square for the centre of the crown, cast on 28 stitches, and work backwards and forwards 27 rows with the same number of stitches. then work 34 rounds round this square, and fasten the cotton. then count 43 stitches for the front border, and 24 stitches for the back border, and leave them for the edge of the cap. on the remaining stitches on each side work the strings in 95 rows backwards and forwards on the same number of stitches; each string is pointed off at the lower end by decreasing 1 stitch in every row. sew in a narrow piece of tape in the back border of the cap; the remaining part of the border, as well as the strings, are trimmed with crochet lace or with netted edging, no. 311. [illustration: 343.--netted nightcap.] * * * * * 344.--_netted nightcap_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s knitting cotton, 3-thread, no. 30. [illustration: 344.--netted nightcap.] this nightcap is very simple and practical. it consists of two similar three-cornered pieces, sewn together so as to form a double triangle; the point of the triangle is turned back, as seen in illustration, and fastened on the lower half of the same. the cap is edged with a lace; a similar lace covers the seam between both parts of the cap. the pattern is worked with crochet cotton over a mesh measuring three-quarters of an inch round. begin each half in the corner; cast on 2 stitches, and work backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every row, till the number of stitches is 60. then sew both halves together, and trim the cap and strings (the latter are worked as on the cap no. 343) with the following lace: work 2 rows of open-work treble stitches--the treble stitches are divided by 1 chain--then work 1 row of double, always working 4 double round the chain stitches which divide 2 treble in the preceding row, or with netted edging no. 311. * * * * * 345.--_knitted pattern_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s knitting cotton no. 20 for couvrettes, or berlin wool for sofa quilts. this pattern can be worked either in wool or cotton, and is suitable for many purposes. cast on a sufficient number of stitches, divided by 18, for the 1st row: knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward knit 2 together, knit 4, purl 6, repeat from *. 2nd row: the stitches knitted in the 1st row are purled as well as the stitches formed by throwing the cotton forward; the purled stitches are knitted. this row is repeated alternately, therefore we shall not mention it again. 3rd row: * knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, purl 2. 5th row: purl 4, * knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4, purl 6. 7th row: knit 2, * purl 2, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6. 9th row: knit 2, * purl 6, knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 4. 11th row: * knit 6, purl 2, knit 6, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. 13th row: throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, * knit 4, purl 6, knit 4, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together. 15th row: * throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, throw the cotton forward, knit 2 together, knit 6, purl 2, knit 6. the knitting can now be easily continued from illustration. [illustration: 345.--knitted pattern.] * * * * * 346 _to_ 348.--knitted shawl. materials: shetland wool, white and scarlet; steel needles. [illustration: 346.--pattern for shawl (348).] [illustration: 347.--pattern for shawl (348).] this shawl is knitted in the patterns given on nos. 346 and 347. both illustrations show the patterns worked in coarse wool, so as to be clearer. begin the shawl, which is square, on one side, cast on a sufficient number of stitches (on our pattern 290); the needles must not be too fine, as the work should be loose and elastic. knit first 2 rows plain, then 3 of the open-work row of pattern no. 346, which is worked in the following manner:--1st row: slip the first stitch, * knit 2 together, inserting the needle into the back part of the stitch, slip 1, knit 2 together, throw the wool twice forward; repeat from *. 2nd row: knit 1 and purl 1 in the stitch formed by throwing the wool forward in the preceding row; the other stitches are purled. in the next row the holes are alternated--that is, after the 1st slipped stitch knit 1, throw the wool forward, and then knit twice 2 together. when 3 such open-work rows are completed, knit 1 row plain, and then work the pattern seen on no. 347, which forms the ground, and is worked in the following way:--1st row: slip the 1st stitch, alternately throw the wool forward, and decrease by slipping 1 stitch, knitting the next, and drawing the slip stitch over the knitted one. 2nd row, entirely purled. when 6 such rows have been worked in this pattern, work again 9 rows of the open-work pattern, but work on each side of the 2 stripes, each 6 stitches wide, in the pattern of the ground (no. 347); each first stripe is at a distance of 4 stitches from the edge, and each second stripe at a distance of 20 stitches. after the 9th open-work row, work again 6 rows in the pattern of the ground, then again 8 open-work rows, and then begin the ground, only continue to work on both sides of the shawl the narrow stripes of the ground pattern, the narrow outer and the two wide inner stripes of the border in the open-work pattern. when the ground (pattern no. 347) is square, finish the shawl at the top with two wide and one narrow open-work row, as at the bottom, divided by stripes in the ground pattern. knot in, all round the shawl, a fringe of scarlet wool; the fringe must be 3-1/2 inches deep. [illustration: 348.--knitted shawl.] * * * * * table of sizes of messrs. walter evans & co.'s knitting cotton, 3 threads. |------------------|-----------------------------| | | no. | |------------------|-----------------------------| |borders | 20, 80 | |couvrettes | 8 | |d'oyleys | 80, 100 | |edgings | 16, 30 | |insertions | 30, 50 | |nightcaps | 20 | |quilts | 4, 8, 12 | |socks | 20 | |table covers | 16 | |------------------------------------------------| monograms and initials. alphabets. * * * * * 349.--_alphabet_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 18. these letters are embroidered in overcast stitch and in satin stitch, and are the capitals for the alphabet no. 350. stars ornament this very effective alphabet. [illustration: 349.--alphabet (capitals).] 350.--_alphabet (small letters)_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 20. this alphabet will be found useful for marking linen as well as pocket-handkerchiefs. it is worked in satin stitch, the stars in fine overcast; an eyelet-hole occupies the centre of each star. [illustration: 350.--alphabets (small letters)] 351.--_alphabet of small capitals_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 12 for linen. no. 18 for handkerchiefs. these letters will be found useful for marking table-linen; they may be worked either in green, red, or white cotton. the letters are worked in raised satin stitch with raised dots and open eyelet-holes. [illustration: 351.--alphabet of small capitals.] 352.--_alphabet_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 12. this pretty alphabet is worked in satin stitch, both raised and veined; the design is composed of forget-me-not blossoms and leaves. raised dots worked in satin stitch form all the fine lines. [illustration: 352.--alphabet in satin stitch.] 353.--alphabet in coral stitch. material: coloured ingrain marking cotton, or black sewing silk, or filoselle. the letters of this alphabet are particularly suitable for pocket-handkerchiefs. the embroidery is worked either with marking cotton, or coloured or black sewing silk; the long white lines are worked in overcast stitch, the small white spots in satin stitch, the remaining parts of the letters in coral stitch, as can be distinctly seen in illustration. [illustration: 353.--alphabet in coral stitch.] 354--small alphabet. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. this useful alphabet is worked in satin stitch, veined in parts and ornamented with tendrils. as the alphabet of capitals (page 377, no. 351) and that of these small letters correspond, any name may be worked from them. [illustration: 354.--alphabet of small letters.] 355.--alphabet (capitals). materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton nos. 12 and 20. this alphabet is worked in raised satin stitch, the outlines being partly scalloped; for the fine lines, which should be worked in overcast, embroidery cotton no. 20 should be employed. [illustration: 355.--alphabet in satin stitch.] 356. alphabet (capitals). material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. the alphabet here illustrated is in the florid style; the graceful flowing lines are worked in raised satin stitch, as well as the variously-sized dots which ornament the letters. [illustration: 356.--alphabet (florid capitals).] 357--alphabet. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton nos. 12 and 16. the letters are worked in point d'or, or dotted stitch, with an outline in fine overcast, and large raised spots in satin stitch. the ornamental wreaths round the first five letters can of course be worked round any of the others. it is very fashionable to work one letter only upon handkerchief corners. [illustration: 357.--alphabet in paint d'or.] 358.--_alphabet in white embroidery_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16 this alphabet is worked in appliqué; the ears of corn only are worked in overcast, satin, and knotted stitch. these letters look particularly well on transparent materials. the ears may be omitted by beginners, though they add much to the beauty of the alphabet. to this alphabet are added the ten numerals, which will be found exceedingly useful. by means of the whole alphabet and all these figures, any combination of initials and numbers can be made. [illustration: 358.--alphabets and numerals in white embroidery.] 359.--_alphabet (see page_ 402). materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 20; very fine black silk. the vine-leaves and grapes of this graceful and fanciful alphabet are worked in veined and slightly raised satin stitch, the tendrils in point russe; for these the fine black silk is employed. * * * * * 360.--_sampler (frontispiece_). materials: cambric muslin or fine linen; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton nos. 16, 18, and 20; red cotton and black silk. this illustration shows a sampler which will be found useful for learning to embroider letters for marking linen. the material used is cambric muslin or fine linen. work the embroidery with white embroidery cotton, red cotton, or black silk. the thick parts of the letters are worked in slanting satin stitch and back stitch; the outlines of the stitched parts are worked in overcast, as well as the fine outlines of the letters and all the fine outlines of the patterns. the monograms and crowns are worked in a similar manner. work button-hole stitch round the outside of the sampler. the letters and crowns may, of course, be employed for other purposes. * * * * * 361.--_alphabet (capitals)_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 20 this effective alphabet is very easily worked, the stitches employed being raised and veined satin stitch, and overcast. the raised dots are worked in satin stitch, care being taken to preserve their position in the _centre_ of each open space. [illustration: 361.--alphabet (capitals).] * * * * * monograms and initials. * * * * * [illustration: 362.--alice.] 362.--_alice_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 20. the letters of this name, except the initial letter, are very simple, being worked in plain satin stitch, while the initial letter is worked in raised satin stitch, point de poste, and overcast. 363.--_amalie_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton nos. 16 and 20. [illustration: 363.--amalie.] the highly-ornate initial of this name is not difficult to work, requiring only great regularity and evenness in embroidering the tendrils and eyelet-holes. the veinings of the letter must be carefully defined. the remainder of the name is executed in plain satin stitch, a few eyelet-holes being introduced. "amalie" can easily be altered into "amelia" by changing the place of the _a_ and _e_. in the centre of each letter a large eyelet-hole is placed; smaller eyelet-holes of graduated sizes occupy parts of the overcast scrolls, which should be worked with no. 20 cotton. the initial letter is worked in raised satin stitch. [illustration: 364.--amy.] 364.--_amy_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. this pretty name is worked in delicately raised satin stitch and point de pois; the dots in dotted satin stitch, and the elegant little design beneath is worked in point russe. 365.--_annie_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. [illustration: 365.--annie.] the letter _a_ of this name is rather elaborate, and is worked in point de pois or back stitching, the outlines in fine overcast, the letters in satin stitch. the ornaments surrounding the word "annie" are worked in overcast. 366.--_a.m.k._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. this name is worked in satin stitch, with small dots of raised satin stitch. the eyelet-holes in the middle letter to be worked in overcast. [illustration: 366.--a.m.k.] 367.--_b.r._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. [illustration: 367.--b.r.] these initials are worked in appliqué in the centre of a medallion in satin stitch, overcast, and lace stitches. 368.--_carrie_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 20. [illustration: 368.--carrie.] this name is very easy to work, being very clearly and simply embroidered in overcast and satin stitch. the thick dots may be worked without the eyelet-holes if preferred. [illustration: 359.--caroline.] 369.--_caroline_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 18. this pretty name requires care in working; the leaves which adorn the letters must be very well defined; they, as well as the letters, are embroidered in satin stitch, the initial letter being veined, and the ornaments worked in overcast and eyelet-holes. 370.--_charlotte_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. [illustration: 370.--charlotte.] this name is worked in satin stitch and overcast, the small and elegant dots in point de russe and graduated satin stitch; the large ones are worked in raised satin stitch. 371.--_cornelie_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 18. this word is worked in plain satin stitch, the ornamentation in overcast stitch. [illustration: 371.--cornelie.] 372.--_c.m._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 18. this design is simple, is worked in graduated satin stitch, and is most elegant. [illustration: 372--c.m.] [illustration: 373.--dora.] 373.--_dora_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 30. this elaborate design should not be attempted by beginners in the art of embroidery; it is worked in overcast stitch, raised and veined satin stitch; the tendrils are entirely worked in graduated overcast; the name is placed over a graceful spray of wild flowers worked in the above-named stitches. this pattern, although originally designed to be worked on net or fine muslin, is far more effective when worked on cambric or fine lawn. 374.--_d.c._ [illustration: 374.--d.c.] material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. these letters are worked in satin stitch and veined satin stitch; the forget-me-nots are worked in raised satin stitch with a small eyelet-hole in the middle worked in overcast stitch. 375.--_emily_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. this name is worked in satin stitch, the dots in the middle in point de poste, the rest of the letters in satin stitch and in dotted satin stitch. [illustration: 375.--emily.] 376.--_ernestine_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. this elegant design is most effective; the first letter very elaborate; the rest of the letters simply worked in satin stitch. the small stars are worked in overcast stitch, and the initial letter itself in veined satin stitch. [illustration: 376.--ernestine.] 377.--_etta_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 10. the letters which compose this name are formed entirely of leaves, flowers, and tendrils, worked entirely in satin stitch and overcast; the tendrils which surround the name are worked in overcast, and have a few eyelet-holes placed among them. [illustration: 377.--etta.] 378.--_eva_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton nos. 16 and 20. this name is worked in satin stitch, the leaf in point de sable; the veinings are worked in raised satin stitch. [illustration: 378.--eva.] 379.--_e.a._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s white and red embroidery cotton no. 30. this very pretty monogram is worked quite in a new style of embroidery. the design represents the emblems of faith, hope, and charity. the outlines of the shield and cross are worked in overcast, the initials "e.a.," the torch, and the anchor in satin stitch with white cotton, the leaves partly in satin stitch with white and partly in point d'or with red cotton, with only a fine outline in overcast. the cross and the flames of the torch are embroidered in the same manner. [illustration: 379--e.a.] 380.--_e.a.p._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 18. these pretty initials are worked in satin stitch, the middle letter in point russe and point de poste. [illustration: 380.--e.a.p.] 381.--_e.p._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. these elegant letters are worked in veined and raised satin stitch. [illustration: 381.--e.p.] [illustration: 382.--e.r.] 382.--_e.r._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 30. the ovals are worked in overcast and point de pois, the letters in satin stitch, the ornamentation in satin stitch and overcast. [illustration: 383.--e.a.] 383.--_e.a._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. these initials are placed in a medallion; they are worked in satin stitch and overcast, and in appliqué on muslin. for that part of the pattern in which the name is to be embroidered the material is taken double. 384.--_elisabeth_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 20. this word is embroidered in satin stitch and overcast. a few small eyelet-holes break the monotony of the outlines, and give lightness to this name. [illustration: 384.--elisabeth.] 385.--_elise_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton nos. 12 and 16. the open part of these letters is ornamented by one or more dots; the thick work is raised over chain stitches worked in no. 12, a rather coarser cotton. [illustration: 385.--elise.] 386.--_emma_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. this name is worked in satin stitch; the large dots may be worked with the eyelet-holes in fine overcast, the smaller dots in satin stitch. the remaining letters in raised satin stitch and point de sable. [illustration: 386.--emma.] 387.--_f.b._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 18. this elegant monogram is worked in raised satin stitch, the inside embroidered with lace. the leaves and tendrils are worked in satin stitch and point de sable. [illustration: 387.--f.b.] 388.--_f.s._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton nos. 16 and 20. the initials "f.s." are placed in the pages of an open book, the outlines of which are worked in overcast, the sides in point de pois. the wreath of flowers which surrounds the book is embroidered in satin stitch, the tendrils and veinings are in overcast. the initials are worked in fine satin stitch. [illustration: 388.--f.s.] 389.--_fanny._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. this name is simply worked in satin stitch and overcast. [illustration: 389.--fanny.] 390.--_francis._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. the initial letter of this elegant design is worked in fine over-casting; the centre star in raised satin stitch with lace in the middle; the leaves surrounding it in veined satin stitch; the other letters are worked in plain satin stitch; and the dots of the line in point de poste. [illustration: 390.--francis.] 391.--_e.c._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 20. the initials "e.c." are worked within a frame of overcast outlines and satin stitch dots. vine-leaves and grapes worked in point de pois and eyelet-holes are placed as ornaments around the frame. [illustration: 391.--e.c.] 392.--_gordon_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. this pretty name being worked in raised satin stitch, is very suitable for gentlemen's handkerchiefs. [illustration: 391.--gordon.] 393.--_helene_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. we give the french version of this pretty name, it being easily changed to english "helen" by omitting the final _e_ in working. the name is worked in plain satin stitch, slightly raised at the thickest parts of the letters. [illustration: 393.--helene.] 394.--_h.d.g._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 18. this elegant design is worked in fine overcast and satin stitch, and point de russe. [illustration: 394--h.d.g.] 395--_jessie._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. this design is very simple to work, the letters being so clear and well defined. the thick satin stitch is scalloped in parts. [illustration: 395.--jessie.] 396.--_j.c._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 12. the letters "j.c." are worked in raised satin and overcast stitch, the thickest part of each letter being worked in scallops. [illustration: 396.--j.c.] 397.--_lina_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 18. this name is worked in raised veined satin stitch; the small stars are worked in point russe round eyelet-holes. [illustration: 397. lina.] 398.--_lizzie_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. this name is worked partly in satin stitch, partly in raised dots and fine overcast; the letters are in the greek style, and have an excellent effect if well worked. [illustration: 398.--lizzie.] 399.--_l.g.a._ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 20, and linen thread no. 16. lace stitches are introduced in the medallion which incloses these letters, the outlines being worked in overcast and point de pois, the pens and initials in raised satin stitch, as also the flowers. the open portion is filled in with mechlin wheels, which are thus worked: a number of single threads cross each other in the space to be filled up; these are placed about a quarter of an inch from each other. all the bars in one direction must now be worked in fine button-hole stitch, then the opposite bars must be worked, and the button-hole stitch must be continued about six inches past the point where the two lines cross. the thread must be slipped loosely round the cross twice, running over and under alternately, so as to form a circle; then work in button-hole to the centre of a quarter of the circle; make a dot by inserting a pin in the next button-hole and working three stitches in the loop thus formed by the pin. these dots may be omitted from these wheels. [illustration: 399.--l.g.a.] 400.--_l.c._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. the effect of this design when well worked is excellent, for, although simple, the contrast between the letters and stars throws each into relief. veined and raised satin stitch, with very small eyelet-holes, are the stitches used here. [illustration: 400.--l.c.] 401.--_marie_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton nos. 20 and 36. this name is embroidered in satin stitch; the veinings are well defined, and the tendrils should be worked with no. 30 cotton, as they require very fine work. stars of overcast and eyelet-holes are the only ornaments. [illustration: 401--marie.] 402.--_maria_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 30. the initial letter of this name is worked in overcast and point de pois, the remaining letters in satin stitch, the ornamentation in satin stitch and overcast. [illustration: 402.--maria.] 403.--_maude_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 18. this name is worked in veined satin stitch; the small stars in raised satin stitch, and the elegant tendrils are worked in overcast. this work is peculiarly adapted for the marking of a trousseau. [illustration: 403.--maude.] 404.--_m._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. this elegant design can be worked in coloured silk if preferred, or the coronet omitted at will. the letter "m" is worked in raised and veined satin stitch; the centre stars are worked in fine overcast round an eyelet-hole; the coronet is worked in very fine satin stitch and point de pois, and stars to correspond with those worked in the letter and in the wreath below, the leaves of which are worked in satin stitch and overcast stitch. [illustration: 404.--m.--handkerchief corner.] 405.--_m.b.d._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 20. these initials are worked in satin stitch and overcast, the open work in fine overcast round eyelet-holes. [illustration: 405.--m.b.d.] [illustration: 406.--m.b.g.] 406.--_m.b.g._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. these elegant letters are simply worked in graduated satin stitch and fine overcast with eyelet-holes. [illustration: 407.--m.h.e.] 407.--_m.h.e._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 18. this elegant design is worked in graduated satin stitch, the middle letter is done in point croisé. this stitch is only worked on very thin and transparent materials. insert the needle into the material as for the common back stitch, draw it out underneath the needle on the opposite outline of the pattern so as to form on the wrong side a slanting line. insert the needle again as for common back stitch. 408.--_natalie._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 30. the initial letter of this word contains all those following, and is surrounded by a wreath of roses and other flowers; these are worked in satin stitch, the leaves in point de pois, the letters in raised satin stitch. the dots which are represented on the groundwork of the initial are worked in back stitching; these may be worked in scarlet ingrain cotton if desired for morning handkerchiefs. [illustration: 408.--natalie.] 409.--_o.r._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 18. this monogram is worked in satin stitch, and the oval is worked in eyelet-holes of graduated sizes. [illustration: 409.--o.r.] 410.--_phoebe_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 20. the first letter of this word is very elaborate; it is worked in satin stitch, point de sable, and point de pois, the rest of the letters in satin stitch. [illustration: 410.--phoebe.] 411.--_monogram for pocket handkerchiefs_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton perfectionné no. 20. [illustration: 411.--monogram for marking handkerchiefs] this monogram is worked partly in appliqué, partly in satin stitch. for the middle part of the medallion sew on the pattern in appliqué of cambric with button-hole stitch; the remaining part of the embroidery is worked in satin stitch and point russe. 412.--_monogram for pocket handkerchiefs_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 20, and linen thread no. 20. this monogram is also worked in appliqué and satin stitch. the circle all round the medallion is worked in appliqué; in the middle work lace stitches from illustration. the edge of the medallion is worked round with button-hole stitch. [illustration: 412.--monogram for marking handkerchiefs.] 413.--_rosa_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 20. here the name is inclosed in a medallion of overcast and back stitching, the lower part having a graceful wreath of leaves worked in satin stitch. the letters which form the name are worked in raised and scalloped satin stitch and point de pois. [illustration: 413. rosa.] 414.--_rosina_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 20. the stars round this graceful initial letter are worked in raised satin stitch round an eyelet-hole, the leaves in graduated satin stitch, the stems overcast, the wreaths of flowers worked in satin stitch and open eyelet-holes, the stems and veinings in overcast, and the stars on the stems to correspond with those worked in the letter: the rest of the letters in simple satin stitch rather thickly raised. [illustration: 414.--rosina.] 415.--_r.s._ materials: black china silk; messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. these letters are worked in raised satin stitch with a design of point russe worked in black silk. [illustration: 415.--r.s.] 416.--_s.e.b._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 16. these letters are worked in graduated satin stitch, the centre star is worked in raised satin stitch, and the four surrounding it as eyelet-holes. [illustration: 416.--s.e.b.] 417.--_l.e.p._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 18. these initials are worked in plain satin stitch, and the elegant stars are worked in point russe worked round an eyelet-hole. [illustration: 417.--l.e.p.] 418.--_victoria_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s embroidery cotton no. 20. this name is most elaborately worked in satin stitch, over-casting and eyelet-holes. the initial letter is worked in satin stitch, and the stars in fine overcast round an eyelet-hole. [illustration: 418.--victoria.] * * * * * point lace work. lace is of two kinds--pillow lace, which is made upon a cushion or pillow, and point lace, which is made of stitches or _points_ worked in patterns by hand, which are joined by various stitches forming a groundwork, also the result of the needle above. pillow lace is entirely worked on the pillow or cushion, the pattern and ground being produced at the same time. pillow lace is sometimes correctly called bone or bobbin lace, but it appears that the distinction has never been very nicely observed either by lace-workers or lace-traders, many sorts which are really pillow lace being called point, on account of some peculiarity in the stitch or pattern. the requisites for producing lace in perfection are the dexterity and taste of the workers, and the goodness of the material. to produce many beautiful fabrics a mechanical dexterity alone suffices, but in lace-making the worker must have some artistic talent, even when supplied with designs, for any one can perceive that deviations from the design are easily made, and that the slightest alteration by a worker wanting in taste will spoil the whole piece of workmanship. the following illustrations are specimens of ancient and modern laces from mrs. bury palliser's collection:-[illustration: 419.--dalecarlian lace.] [illustration: 420.--old mechlin.] [illustration: 421.--mechlin lace (queen charlotte's).] no. 419 shows dalecarlian lace, made by the women of dalecarlia. this is a coarse kind of lace, and is sewn on caps, &c., and, although highly starched, is never washed, for fear of destroying its coffee-coloured tint, which, it appears, is as much prized now by the swedish rustics as it was by english ladies in the last century. [illustration: 422.--buckingham point trolly, 1851 (black lace).] both these specimens of mechlin belonged to queen charlotte, who much admired this elegant lace. no. 423.--the bedford plaited lace is an improvement on the old maltese. honiton guipure lace is distinguished by the groundwork being of various stitches, in place of being sewn upon a net ground. the application of honiton sprigs upon bobbin net has been of late years almost superseded by this modern guipure. the sprigs, when made, are sewn upon a piece of blue paper and united on the pillow with "cutworks" or "purlings," or else joined with the needle by various stitches--lacet, point, réseau, cutwork, button-hole, and purling. [illustration: 423.--bedford plaited lace (1851).] those who wish to study lace and lace-making should read mrs. bury palliser's _history of lace_ (sampson low and marston). [illustration: 424.--honiton guipure lace.] point lace. the materials required for this elegant branch of needlework are neither numerous nor expensive. tracing cloth, leather, or toile cirée, various braids and cords, linen thread and two or three sizes of needles, scissors and thimble. tracing cloth is required when ladies copy point lace patterns, and is the most convenient mode of taking them, as the design can be worked upon the tracing cloth, which, though transparent, is very strong; the price is 1s. 6d. per yard. fine leather is the material upon which bought patterns are usually traced, and is decidedly more pleasant to work on than is any other material. in selecting patterns ladies should choose those traced upon green leather in preference to scarlet or buff, as green is better for the eyesight than any other colour. [illustration: 425.--point lace scissors.] toile cirée is only a substitute for leather, and is not as pleasant to work upon in warm weather. the needles employed are usually messrs. walker's needles, nos. 9 and 10. the scissors should be small, sharp, and pointed, as in illustration no. 425. an ivory thimble may be safely employed in this light work. [illustration: 426.--linen braid.] [illustration: 427.--linen braid.] [illustration: 428.--linen braid.] [illustration: 429.--linen braid.] [illustration: 430.--linen braid.] [illustration: 431.--linen braid.] the braids are of various widths and kinds. none but pure linen braid should be employed; those with machine-made edgings are eschewed by many lace-workers, the plain, loose-woven linen braid of various widths and qualities being alone acceptable to experienced hands. but all ladies do not care to be at the trouble of edging the braid, and will find nos. 426, 428, 430, and 431 very useful. no. 429 is a plain linen braid with a vandyked edge, which works out very prettily. no. 431 is an edged braid with open holes, in imitation of the point lace work of the fifteenth century. point lace cords resemble the satin stitch embroidery in their close, regular smoothness; the price is 1s. per hank, and they are of various thicknesses, from the size of a coarse crochet thread up to that of a thick piping cord. these cords are used to ornament the braid, and are closely sewn on the braid, following its every outline, and serve as _beading_ to the edging, being always sewn on the outer edge alone. the finer kinds of this cord are used in place of braid where very light work is needed, as in the point lace alphabet which forms the frontispiece of this work. directions for laying on the cord when employed as braid are given on page 500. when used as a finish only, and to impart the raised appearance of venice and spanish lace, it is fixed on the braid by plain, close sewing. the thread used should be mecklenburg linen thread; that of messrs. walter evans and co. we strongly recommend as being of pure linen, washing and wearing well; it is pleasant to work with, from the regularity and evenness of the make. the numbers run thus:--2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 24, 30, 36, and 40--and will be found adapted for every kind of lace stitch. no. 2 is the coarsest, no. 40 the finest, size. in working point lace the following directions must be attended to: begin at the left hand, and work from left to right, when not otherwise directed, as in reverse rows. before cutting off the braid run a few stitches across it to prevent it widening. joins should be avoided, but when a join is indispensable, stitch the braid together, open and turn back the ends, and stitch each portion down separately. when passing the thread from one part to another, run along the centre of the braid, allowing the stitches to show as little as possible. in commencing, make a few stitches, leaving the end of the thread on the wrong side and cutting it off afterwards. in fastening off, make a tight button-hole stitch, run on three stitches, bring the needle out at the back, and cut off. having now completed our list of materials, we can proceed to lay on the braid. [illustration: 442.--mode of placing the braid.] to place the braid.--no. 442 shows the design traced upon paper or tracing cloth, and lightly tacked to a foundation of leather or toile cirée. run on a straight line of braid for the lower edge, with fine stitches, working as shown from left to right. take another piece of braid, or the other end of the same piece, and begin to lay the braid by "running" stitches in its centre, keeping it as smooth and even as possible. the outer edge presents no difficulty, but the inner edge will not lie evenly without being drawn in by a needle and thread, as follows:--thread a no. 9 needle with no. 12 mecklenburg thread about 20 inches long, fasten the thread to one point, and insert the needle in and out of the edge of the braid, as if for fine gathering; this thread when drawn up will keep the braid in its place. two or three fastening off stitches should be worked when each circle, half circle, or rounded curve of a pattern is finished, as the drawing or gathering thread remains in the work, and forms an important, though unseen, part of its structure. as much of the beauty of point lace depends upon the manner of placing the braid, ladies cannot bestow too much pains upon this part of the work, which is a little troublesome to beginners. many fancy shops now undertake this braid-placing for ladies, who can have their own pattern braided and commenced or braided alone at trifling expense. among these may be mentioned the following houses:--goubaud, 30, henrietta-street, covent-garden. boutillier, oxford-street, w. the stitches used in point lace may be divided into-stitches proper, or _points_. connecting bars. finishing edgings. wheels, rosettes. the term point lace, or lace stitches (_points_), has of late been applied to every stitch executed with mecklenburg thread, and many stitches are erroneously named by modern writers. as there are more than one hundred stitches employed in this beautiful art, much study and opportunity of seeing specimens of old point lace is required to give a novice any idea of the various kinds of point lace; but by attention to the following stitches the rudiments of the art may be easily acquired and very beautiful lace produced. the first stitch is point de bruxelles, or brussels lace stitch. this stitch, as may be clearly seen in illustration no. 433, is a simple button-hole stitch worked loosely and with great regularity. the whole beauty of brussels lace depends upon the evenness of the stitches. this stitch is sometimes employed as an edging, but is more often worked in rows backwards and forwards, either as a groundwork or to fill spaces, as in the point lace collar, no. 496. [illustration: 433. point de bruxelles (brussels lace).] [illustration: 434.--point de bruxelles (brussels lace worked in rows).] brussels point is the foundation of nearly all the lace stitches. point de venise (venetian or venice point) is worked from left to right, like brussels point. work one loose button-hole, and in this stitch work four button-hole stitches tightly drawn up, then work another loose button-hole stitch, then four more tight button-hole stitches in the loose one, repeat to the end of the row, and fasten off. [illustration: 435.--point de venise (venice point).] [illustration: 436.--petit point de venise (little venice point).] petit point de venise (little venice point) is worked in the same manner as point de venise, but one tight stitch only is worked in each loose button-hole stitch. this is a most useful stitch for filling small spaces. [illustration: 437.--point d'espagne (spanish point).] no. 437.--point d'espagne (spanish point) is worked from left to right as follows:--insert the needle in the edge of the braid, keeping the thread turned to the right, bringing it out inside the loop formed by the thread (see illustration no. 437); the needle must pass from the back of the loop through it. pass the needle under the stitch and bring it out in front, thus twice twisting the thread, which produces the cord-like appearance of this stitch. at the end of each row fasten to the braid and return by sewing back, inserting the needle once in every open stitch. [illustration: 438.--close point d'espagne (close spanish point).] no. 438.--point d'espagne (close) is worked in the same way as open point d'espagne, but so closely as to only allow the needle to pass through in the next row. this stitch is also worked from left to right; fasten to the braid at the end of each row, and sew back to the left again. no. 439.--treble point d'espagne is worked in exactly the same way as the open and close point d'espagne, as may be seen in illustration no. 439. three close stitches, one open, three close to the end of each row. sew back, and in the next row begin one open, three close, one open, then close to the end; repeat the rows as far as necessary, taking care that the close and open stitches follow in regular order. diamonds, stars, and various patterns may be formed with this stitch. [illustration: 439.--treble point d'espagne (treble spanish point).] no. 440.--point de grecque is begun from left to right, is worked backwards and forwards, and is begun by one stitch in loose point de bruxelles and three of close point d'espagne; then one brussels, three point d'espagne to the end of the row; in returning work back in the same manner. [illustration: 440.--point de grecque (grecian point).] no. 441. point de valenciennes (valenciennes stitch).--this stitch appears complicated, but is really easy to work. begin at the left hand and work six point de bruxelles stitches at unequal distance, every alternate stitch being larger. 2nd row: upon the first large or long stitch work 9 close button-hole stitches, then 1 short point de bruxelles stitch under the one above, then 9 close stitches, and so on to the end of row (right to left). [illustration: 441.--point de valenciennes (valenciennes stitch).] 3rd row: 5 close button-hole in the 9 of previous row, 1 short point de bruxelles, 2 close in the bruxelles stitch, 1 short point de bruxelles, 5 close, 1 short point de bruxelles, 2 close, l short, 5 close, 1 short, and repeat. 4th row: 5 close, 1 short point de bruxelles, 2 close, 1 short, 5 close, 1 short, 2 close, l short, and repeat. continue the rows until sufficient of the pattern is worked. [illustration: 442.--point d'alençon, with twisted stitch.] no. 442. point d'alençon.--this stitch is used to fill up narrow spaces where great lightness is required. point d'alençon is worked under and over in alternate stitches, like hem stitch. nos. 442 and 443 show point d'alençon. in no. 442 a twisted stitch is worked over the plain point d'alençon, which is clearly shown in no. 443; this twist is made by passing the thread three times round each plain bar, and working the knot shown in illustration no. 442 over _both_ strands of the bar. [illustration: 443.--point d'alençon, with button-hole stitch.] the point d'alençon no. 443 is a festoon of close button-hole stitch worked over the plain bars. [illustration: 444.--point d'angleterre (open english lace).] no. 444.--point d'angleterre (open english lace).--open english lace is thus worked:--cover the space to be filled in with lines of thread about one-eighth of an inch apart, then form cross lines, intersecting those already made and passing alternately under and over them; work a rosette on every spot where two lines cross, by working over and under the two lines about 16 times round, then twist the thread twice round the groundwork thread, and begin to form another rosette at the crossing threads. no. 445 shows this stitch much enlarged. [illustration: 445.--point d'angleterre (enlarged).] no. 446,--point turque (turkish stitch).--this easy and effective stitch looks well for filling either large or small spaces; the thread employed should be varied in thickness according to the size of the space to be filled. 1st row: work a loop, bringing the thread from right to left, passing the needle through the twist and through the loop, draw up tight and repeat. 2nd row: 1 straight thread from right to left. 3rd row: work the same as first using the straight thread in place of the braid, and passing the needle through the loop of previous row, as shown in illustration no. 446. [illustration: 446.--point turque.] no. 447.--cordova stitch is useful for varying other stitches. it resembles the point de reprise of guipure d'art, and is worked in a similar manner over and under the side of squares formed by straight and parallel lines. (see no. 448.) [illustration: 447.--point de cordova (cordova stitch).] no. 448.--point de reprise.--this stitch is worked by darning over and under two threads, forming a triangle. the space is filled by parallel and cross-way bars, placed at equal distances, and on the triangles thus produced point de reprise is worked. [illustration: 448.--point de reprise.] no. 449.--point brabançon (brabançon lace) is worked as follows:--left to right. 1st row: 1 long loose, 1 short loose, point de bruxelles alternately to end of row. 2nd row: 7 tight point de bruxelles in the 1 long loose stitch, 2 short loose point de bruxelles in the short loose stitch of previous row, repeat. 3rd row: same as first. [illustration: 449.--point brabançon (brabançon lace).] [illustration: 450.--point de fillet (net groundwork stitch).] [illustration: 451.--point de fillet and point de reprise.] no. 450 is used for groundwork where brussels net is not imitated, and is very effective. it is begun in the corner or crosswise of the space to be filled. a loose point de bruxelles stitch is first taken and fastened to the braid, then passed twice through the braid as shown in illustration, and worked in rows backwards and forwards as follows:--1 point de bruxelles stitch; before proceeding to the next stitch pass the needle _under_ the knot, _over_ the thread, and again _under_ it, as shown in illustration no. 450. this stitch is very quickly worked. no. 451 shows point de fillet applied in filling a space, with a few stitches of point de reprise worked upon this pretty groundwork. no. 452.--point de tulle.--this stitch is used as a groundwork for very fine work, and is worked in rows backwards and forwards in the same stitch as open point d'espagne, page 457. when this is completed the work is gone over a second time, by inserting the needle under one twisted bar, bringing it out and inserting it at +, and bringing it out again at the dot. this produces a close double twist which is very effective. [illustration: 452.--point de tulle.] no. 453.--mechlin lace (mechlin wheels).--this is one of the prettiest stitches in point lace, but also one of the most difficult to work correctly. it is thus worked:--work a number of diagonal bars in button-hole stitch on a single thread in one direction, then begin in the opposite side the same way, and work 5 or 6 stitches past the spot where the two lines cross, pass the thread round the cross twice under and over the thread to form a circle. work in button-hole stitch half one quarter, make a dot by putting a fine pin in the loop instead of drawing the thread tight, and work 3 button-hole stitches in the loop held open by the pin, then take it out, and continue as before. beginners will do well to omit the dot, leaving the loop only on the wheel. mechlin wheels are also worked in rows upon horizontal and parallel lines of thread. [illustration: 453.--mechlin lace wheels.] no. 454.--escalier lace.--this useful lace may be varied in pattern to any extent by placing the open stitches in any desired order; it then takes the name of diamond or antwerp lace, according to the design. true escalier lace is made by working nine button-hole stitches close together; then miss 3--that is, work none in the space that 3 stitches would occupy--work 9, miss 3 as before to the end of row, begin the 2nd row 3 stitches from the end, to cause the open spaces to fall in diagonal lines--a succession of steps or stairs (_escalier_), which gives name to this stitch. [illustration: 454.--escalier lace worked in diamonds.] no. 455.--spanish point lace is adorned with highly-raised scrolls, flowers, &c. this is effected by working over an underlay of coarse white thread or over fine white linen cords. the wheels are worked by winding soft coarse linen thread round pencils or smooth knitting-pins of various sizes, and working over the circle thus obtained a succession of close button-hole stitches. these wheels are sewn on to the lace when completed. the groundwork of spanish lace is usually worked in what are called raleigh bars (see page 477), but this lace has sometimes for groundwork point de venise. an easy mode of working this handsome lace is to trace the design upon very fine good linen; raise the thick parts as above directed, and embroider the whole in fine thick scalloped button-hole stitch; fill the ground with raleigh bars, or, as shown in illustration no. 455, in treble point de venise, and cut away the linen from beneath the groundwork. [illustration: 455.--spanish point lace (worked à l'anglaise).] wheels and rosettes. wheels or rosettes are used to fill up circles, or in combination to form lace. the simplest is-the sorrento wheel.--nos. 456 and 457.--this is worked by fastening the thread in the pattern to be filled up by means of the letters. fasten it first at the place _a_, then at the place _b_, carrying it back to the middle of the first formed bar by winding it round, fasten the cotton at the place _c_, carrying it back again to the centre by winding it round the bar, and so on; then work over and under the bars thus formed as in english lace. see page 462, and illustrations nos. 456 and 457. [illustration: 456 and 457.--sorrento wheels.] no. 458.--english wheel.--this is worked in the same manner as the sorrento wheel, but instead of _winding_ the thread over and under the bars, the needle is inserted under each bar and brought out again between the thread and the last stitch; this gives a kind of button-hole stitch, and gives the square, firm appearance possessed by this wheel. [illustration: 458.--english wheel.] no. 459.--rosette in point d'angleterre.--this rosette is worked in a somewhat similar manner to the wheel above described, the difference being that after each stitch passed round and under the bars, the thread is passed loosely round in the reverse direction, as shown in illustration no. 459, before proceeding to make the next stitch. [illustration: 459.--rosette in raised point d'angleterre.] no. 460 is a rosette or star which is used to fill circles of braid, and forms the centre of many modern point lace patterns. it is worked upon a pattern traced and pricked in small holes at equal distances. two threads are employed, one coarse tracing thread, the other of finer thread. the coarse thread is laid on thus:--pass the needle containing the fine thread, no. 12, through one of the pricked holes, over the tracing thread and back through the same hole; repeat, following the traced outline until the whole of the coarse thread is laid over the outline, then work over in tight button-hole stitch with picots or purls, as on the raleigh bars (see page 477). this mode of laying on tracing or outlining thread is also applied to fine braid and to point lace cord, as in the alphabet no. 400 (see page 500). [illustration: 460.--rosette for centre of point lace circles.] bars. the word _bar_ is applied to the various stitches used to connect the various parts of point lace work, and the beauty of the work depends greatly upon the class of bar and its suitability to the lace stitches used. the simplest bar is-no. 461.--the sorrento bar.--it is worked from right to left, a straight thread being carried across and fastened with a stitch. the return row consists of a simple twist under and over the straight thread; three of these bars are usually placed close together at equal distances between each group. the thread is sewn over the braid in passing from one spot to another. [illustration: 461.--sorrento bars.] [illustration: 462.--sorrento bars.] sorrento bars are also applied as shown in illustration no. 462. no. 463.--d alencon bars are worked upon point de bruxelles edging, and are only applied to the inner part of a pattern, never being used as groundwork bars. the thread is merely passed three times over and under the point de bruxelles stitches, the length of these bars being regulated by the space to be filled; when the third bar is completed a tight point de bruxelles stitch is used to fasten off the bar, the thread is passed through the next point de bruxelles stitch, and a second bar begun. [illustration: 463.--d'alençon bars.] [illustration: 464.--venetian bar.] no. 464.--the venetian bar is so simple that it hardly needs description. it is worked over two straight threads in reverse button-hole stitch. no. 465 shows the venetian bar applied as the "veining" of leaf, and worked upon sorrento bars. [illustration: 465.--venetian bar.] no. 466.--venetian bars are worked so as to form squares, triangles, &c., in button-hole stitch upon a straight thread. the arrow in the illustration points to the direction for working the next. [illustration: 466.--plain venetian bars.] no. 467.--bars of point d'angleterre.--these bars may be worked singly or to fill up a space, as in illustration. work rosettes as in point d'angleterre, page 461; when each rosette is finished twist the thread up the foundation thread to the top, fasten with one stitch, then pass it under the parallel line running through the centre and over into the opposite braid; repeat on each side of each rosette, inserting the threads as in illustration. [illustration: 467.--bars of point d'angleterre.] no. 468.--point de venise bars (edged).--begin at the right hand and stretch a line of thread to the left side of the braid, fastening it with one tight stitch of point de bruxelles. upon this line work a succession of tight point de bruxelles stitches. in every third stitch work one point de venise stitch. [illustration: 468.--point de venise bars (edged).] no. 469.--we now come to the most important feature of bars--the _dot, picot_, or _purl_, for by all these names it is known. this dot is worked in various ways upon different lace bars. dotted point de venise bars are worked as follow:-[illustration: 469.--dotted point de venise bars.] stretch the thread from right to left, on this work five tight stitches of point de bruxelles, then insert a pin in this last stitch to hold it open and loose, pass the needle under the loose stitch and over the thread, as clearly shown in illustration no. 469, and in this loop work three tight point de bruxelles stitches. then work five more stitches, and repeat to end of row. [illustration: 470.--picot or dot on sorrento bar.] no. 470 shows a dot or picot upon a sorrento bar worked between rows of point de bruxelles, three twisted stitches being worked into the loop left by the twisted thread; this forms a picot resembling satin stitch in appearance. nos. 471 and 472.--raleigh bars are worked over a foundation or network of coarse thread, twisted in places so as to more easily fall into the desired form. [illustration: 471.--raleigh bars.] [illustration 472.--network for working raleigh bars.] by following the numbering from no. 1 to 21, in no. 472, a square place may be easily filled, and portions of this arrangement applied to form groundwork of any shape desired. upon this groundwork tight point de bruxelles stitches are worked, and the dot worked upon these in one of the following ways:-dot or picot.--1st mode: five tight point de bruxelles stitches, one loose point de bruxelles; pass the needle under the loop and over the thread, as shown in point de venise bars no. 469, draw up, leaving a small open loop as in tatting. work five tight point de bruxelles and repeat. 2nd mode: proceed as above, but instead of continuing the tight stitches work two or three tight stitches in the loop thus formed, and repeat. 3rd mode: work four tight point de bruxelles stitches, one loose, through which pass the needle point, wind the thread three or four times round the point, as shown in illustration no. 473, press the thumb tightly on this, and draw the needle and thread through the twists. this is a quick mode of making the picot, and imitates most closely the real spanish lace. illustration no. 473 also shows how this stitch may be applied as a _regular_ groundwork, but the beauty of old point groundwork bars is the variety of form. [illustration: 473.--third mode of making picots or dots.] edges and purl finish. the correct edging of lace is a most important part of this art, and care should be taken to work a proper edge for each kind of lace. sorrento edging should be worked upon limoges lace. spanish lace requires a full rich edge, as shown in no. 478, &c. the simplest edge is point de bruxelles, which is worked somewhat like the stitch no. 433, and is secured by a knot worked in the braid. many lace-workers omit this knot. [illustration: 474.--point de bruxelles edging.] no. 475.--sorrento edging is worked with one short and one long stitch alternately. [illustration: 475.--sorrento edging.] no. 476.--point de venise is worked precisely like that stitch (see page 456), three and even four stitches being worked in the loop. [illustration: 476.--point de venise edging.] no. 477.--point d'angleterre edging is worked in point de bruxelles, the thread being again drawn through the braid before proceeding to the next stitch. this edging is strong and useful. [illustration: 477.--point d'angleterre edging.] no. 478.--point d'espagne edging.--this stitch is easily worked. insert the point of the needle through the braid and wind the thread round it 20 times, draw the needle through these windings and draw the picot tight, sew over the braid the space of 3 stitches, and repeat. [illustration: 478.--point d'espagne edging.] no. 479.--antwerp edge.--this edge is only a variety of point d'angleterre edging, and differs only in the mode of making the knot; the thread is passed over, under, and through the loop formed by the point de bruxelles lace. [illustration: 479.--antwerp edge.] note.--it will be observed that the stitches here given are much enlarged for the sake of clearness in showing details. patterns. no. 480.--_star in point lace_. materials: braid; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 20. trace the outline upon paper or leather, lay the braid on as directed. work the centre in sorrento bars, and on these work a rosette in point d'angleterre, the edge in point d'angleterre edging, and the wheels in open english lace. [illustration: 480.--star in point lace.] * * * * * no. 481.--_medallion in point lace_. materials: linen braid; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 14. this medallion is useful for cravat ends and for a number of purposes, as trimming for sachets, dresses, &c. having placed the braid as before directed, work an english rosette in the centre, fill in the ground with point de fillet or with point de bruxelles. an edging of spanish point completes this pretty medallion. [illustration: 481.--medallion in point lace.] * * * * * no. 482.--_point lace border_. materials: braid; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 12. this border represents the completed work shown on p. 454. a point d'angleterre rosette is worked in each circle. the plain braid is edged by sorrento edging. venice bars are worked above the trimming, and treble point de venise edges the border. [illustration: 482.--point lace border.] * * * * * no. 483.--_point lace border_. materials: braid; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 10. this border is both easily and quickly worked in sorrento bars. the edge is worked in two rows of point de bruxelles. [illustration: 483.--point lace border.] * * * * * no. 484.--_insertion in limoges lace_. materials: plain linen braid; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 14. this insertion will be found very useful, being so quickly worked. edge the braid with sorrento edging, fill up with bars and plain point d'alençon and sorrento wheels, no. 456. [illustration: 484.--insertion in limoges lace.] * * * * * no. 485--_point lace border for handkerchief._ materials: fine lace braid or cord; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 24. this border is suited for a handkerchief or for trimming a square bodice. the braid is not tacked on by stitches running through the centre, as is usual in point lace braids, but sewn on by passing a thread from underneath over the braid and out through the same hole, as is done by lace-workers with a thick thread; this forms the design. the stitches employed in this pattern are raleigh bars, which connect the work; sorrento edging, which finishes the whole outline; english rosettes filling the open spaces. point lace cord may be used for this in place of braid. [illustration: 485. point lace border for handkerchief.] * * * * * no. 486.--_star-centre for toilette cushion in point lace_. materials: braid; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread nos. 16 and 12. [illustration: 486.--star-centre for toilette cushion in point lace.] this beautiful star will be found useful for other purposes than as a toilette cushion cover, and is worked as follows:--english rosette in centre; sorrento wheels in the 4 ovals, worked with no. 12 thread; point de bruxelles ground, worked with no. 16; braid edged by dotted venetian edges. the eight spaces may be filled with 2 or 4 contrasting stitches, taking care that they contrast well, and are placed alternately, and worked in no. 12. * * * * * [illustration: 487.--cravat end in point lace.] 487.--_cravat end in point lace_. materials: fine braid: messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 12. this cravat is worked in sorrento wheels, point d'alençon bars, and sorrento edging. * * * * * [illustration: 488.--point lace edging.] [illustration: 489.--point lace edging.] 488 _and_ 489.--_point lace edgings_. materials: braid; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread nos. 12 and 16. these edgings can be used as a finish to insertions and other trimmings or for edging couvrettes. no. 488 is worked with sorrento wheels; the edge in two rows of point de bruxelles, a straight thread being drawn from the end to the beginning of each scallop over which the second row is worked. no. 489 is worked with the same materials in treble point de venise, edged by the same, and finished off with a row of point de bruxelles, the upper edge being worked in the same way. * * * * * 490.--_design in point lace for collar, lappet, &c._ materials: linen braid; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread nos. 10 and 16. this design may be used for a variety of purposes, and is extremely effective. the principal stitches required are given at the sides of the pattern. _a_ is valenciennes lace, _b_ brussels net, _c_ venetian spotted, _d_ sorrento edging, _e_ mechlin wheel, _f_ english rosette, _g_ raleigh bars. [illustration: 490.--design in point lace for collar, lappet, &c.] * * * * * 491.--_oval for cravats, &c._ materials: point lace cord; muslin; embroidery cotton; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread nos. 14 and 18. this beautiful oval is worked in point lace and embroidery. this is begun from the centre on the muslin by over-casting the space filled by a wheel. the eyelet-holes are then worked, and the satin stitch ornament raised and prepared for working. the edge, of point lace cord, is then laid on, and the under portion edged in tight and open point de bruxelles, the centre of the circles being worked in point de bruxelles. the light groundwork is worked entirely in mechlin wheels, the satin stitch being worked when these are completed. this pattern can be enlarged and applied to many purposes. the muslin is cut away when the whole work is finished. [illustration: 491.--oval pattern for ornamenting cravats, &c.] * * * * * 492.--_point lace trimming for square bodice_. materials: braid; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 12 or 20. we give two sizes of thread, as this design is capable of many uses, and the size of the thread differs with these. the pattern is worked in english rosettes and bars (see no. 467). no. 488 edging looks well with this pattern. [illustration: 492.--point lace trimming for square bodice.] * * * * * 493--_point lace collar._ materials: fine braid or cord; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 22. [illustration: 493--point lace collar.] set on the braid or cord by passing a thread through a hole pricked in the pattern over the braid and out again through the same hole. edge the braid with point de bruxelles, the design being filled by mechlin wheels, sorrento wheels, point de feston, and the mixed stitch shown in no. 494, which is composed of d'alençon and sorrento bars, and is easily worked. those who cannot work mechlin wheels easily, can substitute close english, as shown in illustration no. 495. the bars are sorrento. [illustration: 494.--d'alençon and sorrento bars.] [illustration: 495.--close english wheels.] * * * * * [illustration: 496--point lace collar.] 496.--_point lace collar._ materials: fine braid or cord; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 22. this collar is worked in the same way as no. 493, though the stitches vary. the grecian line is worked in point de reprise, the pattern in close english wheels, point de reprise, point de bruxelles, english rosettes, and raleigh bars. * * * * * [illustration: 497.--point lace lappet.] 497.--_point lace lappet._ materials: braid; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 16 or 24, according to the fineness required. this lappet is exceedingly pretty. it is composed of the following stitches:--point d'alençon, point de tulle, english rosettes, sorrento bars, d'alençon bars, dotted venise bars, and the fancy stitch point d'anvers, which is not a true point lace stitch, but which is much employed in modern point. [illustration: 497.--point lace lappet.] [illustration: 498.--point d'anvers.] [illustration: 499.--point grecque.] point grecque is another useful variety of fancy stitch, and so easily worked as to be a favourite stitch with beginners. * * * * * [illustration: 500.--letter a in point lace.] [illustration: 501.--letter a enlarged.] _500 to 502.--alphabet in point lace. (see endpapers.)_ materials: point lace cord; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 36. this alphabet is useful for marking pocket-handkerchiefs, and for initials for sachets, &c. the cord is laid upon the pattern and pricked out by passing a thread up through a hole over the cord, and back through the same hole; then pass on to the next hole, and repeat. the holes should be about an eighth of an inch apart, or nearer when the pattern is finely convoluted. the letters are worked in point de bruxelles, point d'alençon, and dotted sorrento bars. no. 501 shows the letter a greatly enlarged, to show the mode of working. * * * * * table of threads suited to various articles worked in point lace. |----------------------------------|-------------------| |caps | 36 " " | |collars | 30 " " | |couvrettes | 2 4 6 | |cravats | 18 30 " | |d'oyleys | 8 10 12 | |dress trimmimgs | 22 30 " | |edgings | 14 30 " | |handkerchiefs | 30 36 40 | |insertions, coarse | 6 8 12 | | " fine | 24 30 " | |----------------------------------|-------------------| point lace cord runs about twelve yards to the hank. point lace edged braid runs thirty-six yards on cards. plain linen twelve yards in each hank. * * * * * guipure d'art. instructions and patterns in guipure d'art. * * * * * ancient guipure was a lace made of thin vellum, covered with gold, silver, or silk thread, and the word guipure derives its name from the silk when thus twisted round vellum being called by that name. in process of time the use of vellum was discontinued, and a cotton material replaced it. guipure lace was called _intelle à cartisane_ in england in the sixteenth century. various modern laces are called guipure, but the word is misapplied, since guipure lace is that kind only where one thread is twisted round another thread or another substance, as in the ancient guipure d'art. in every design where lace can be introduced, guipure d'art will be found useful. it looks particularly well when mounted upon quilted silk or satin. the squares, when worked finely, look well as toilet-cushions, or, if worked in coarser thread, make admirable couvrettes, and as covers for eider-down silk quilts are very elegant. guipure squares should be connected by guipure lace, crochet, or tatting, or they may be edged with narrow guipure lace and joined at the corners only when placed over coloured silk or satin; thus arranged, a sofa-cushion appears in alternate squares of plain and lace-covered silk; a ruche of ribbon and fall of lace to correspond completes this pretty mounting. not one of the least important attractions of guipure d'art is the speed with which it is worked, and the ease with which fresh patterns are designed by skilful workers. guipure d'art is an imitation of the celebrated ancient guipure lace, and is worked in raised and intersected patterns upon a square network of linen thread, mecklenburg thread of various sizes being used for this purpose. the needles employed are blunt, and have large eyes, to admit the linen thread. materials required: one frame of wire covered with silk ribbon; one square of mecklenburg thread net (_fillet_), either coarse or fine; mecklenburg thread; netting-needles and meshes of various sizes. the netted foundation, or "_fillet_," upon which this elegant work is embroidered, can be made by ladies very easily, and at much less cost than when bought ready made. the square is worked by netting with coarse no. 2 or fine no.10 thread over a mesh measuring three-quarters of an inch or more, in rows backwards and forwards. begin with 2 stitches, and increase 1 at the end of every row till you have one more stitch than is required for the number of holes. thus, if a square of 26 holes is required, continue to increase up to 27 stitches, then decrease 1 at the end of every row till 2 stitches only remain. the last 2 stitches are knotted together without forming a fresh stitch. the completed foundation is laced upon the frame, taking the lacing cotton through the double edge formed by the increased and decreased stitches. if the four corners of the netting are tied at each corner of the frame before beginning the lacing, that operation is greatly facilitated. the netting should be laced as tightly as possible, it being far easier to darn on than when loose. [illustration: 503.--frame for guipure d'art.] ladies who wish to excel in working guipure d'art should practise each of the stitches until they attain perfect regularity and quickness in their execution. two or three hours devoted to this in the first instance will not be time wasted, as the most elaborate pattern will be worked with ease as soon as the stitches are mastered. the mecklenburg thread of messrs. walter evans and co., of derby, will be found a better colour than any other, as it closely resembles the shade of the ancient guipure lace. it is sold only in spools of 200 yards each, and the numbers run as follow; no. 2, 4, 6, 8, lo, 12, 16, 20; no. 2 being the coarsest, and no. 20 the finest. the principal stitches used in guipure d'art are point d'esprit, point de toile, point de feston, point de reprise, point de bruxelles, and wheels and stars. point d'esprit is worked with finer cotton than the foundation, say no. 10 on a foundation of no. 6. it consists of a succession of small loops, as will be seen clearly in the illustration. the learner should begin from the mark * no. 503, and working a row of loops the length required, turn the frame and work loops on the opposite half of each square intersecting the first worked loops in the centre of each intervening bar of netting. a careful examination of nos. 503 and 506 will explain this more clearly than is possible in words. * * * * * [illustration: 504.--point d'esprit.] point de toile, or linen stitch, is plain darning under and over each thread; this forms a fine close groundwork, and is much used in guipure d'art. care should be taken to keep the same number of stitches in each square, both along and across; the number of threads shown in illustration no. 504 is 4 only, but 6 and even 8 are used in many netted foundations in fine patterns. [illustration: 505.--point de toile.] * * * * * point de feston is worked by a series of overcast stitches, as seen by illustration 506, which clearly shows the manner of working. the frame is turned at each stitch, the stitches are taken across the squares, and increase in length at the top of the square. [illustration: 506.--point de feston.] * * * * * point de reprise, or darning, is worked by stretching 2 or 3 threads over 1, or 2, or more squares. the thread is darned over and under, and the needle used to arrange the last stitch while passing through to form the next. this stitch is very easily acquired. it is always worked with coarser thread than the foundation; no. 2 thread should be employed for a coarse groundwork. no. 510 shows this stitch used to form stars, figures, &c. [illustration: 507--point de reprise.] [illustration: 508.--leaf.] * * * * * point de bruxelles, as shown on pages 506 and 507, is a kind of loose button-hole stitch, and is used for forming various patterns and for filling up squares. it also forms "leaves," when the number of stitches is decreased each row until the leaf finishes off in a point. nos. 509 and 510 clearly show this stitch. [illustration: 509.--point de bruxelles.] [illustration: 510.--point de bruxelles.] * * * * * wheels are easy to work, and are begun in the centre. four threads are taken across, as shown in design no. 511; the thread is twisted in bringing it back to the centre, and the wheel formed by passing the thread under and over the netting and the crossing threads. it is fastened off on the back of the several wheels. [illustration: 511.--wheel (commenced).] [illustration: 512.--wheel.] wheel no. 513 is a square wheel, and is worked in the same manner, with the addition of point d'esprit loops, through which, and under and over the cross-twisted threads, 4 or 5 rows of thread are passed. [illustration: 513.--square wheel.] [illustration: 514.--wheel larger than its real size.] * * * * * stars are of various form, as shown in nos. 516, 517, 518, 519, and 520. no. 516 is worked in point de feston (see page 507) round a single square hole, which is filled in by a small wheel or rosette. no. 517 is worked in point de feston and point de bruxelles, alternately round a centre simply crossed by point d'esprit threads. [illustration: 516.--star.] no. 518 is more elaborate, and is worked thus:--begin at the place marked _a_; twist the linen thread 3 times round the nearest thread, draw it on to the knot _b_; repeat this 3 times, following the order of the letters; twist the linen thread also between the threads, as can be seen from the illustration, and fasten it underneath the knot _a_; for the wheel fasten on the cotton afresh and work the remaining pattern in darning stitch (point de reprise). [illustration: 517.--star.] [illustration: 518.--star.] no. 520 consists of a double cross formed by twisted loops of linen thread. copy these loops exactly from illustration 520 one part of the straight cross lies underneath, then comes the slanting cross, and lastly, the other part of the straight cross. [illustration: 519.--detail of star.] [illustration: 520.--star.] in the centre the loops of linen thread are fastened with two rounds of stitches. (see illustration 520). overcast stitch is worked like embroidery overcast, and forms the stems of the flowers and leaves of guipure d'art; it is worked over one or two coarse threads. it is employed in no. 530, and forms the triangles in the centre of the middle squares. * * * * * [illustration: 521.--insertion in guipure d'art.] 521.--_insertion in guipure d'art._ materials: guipure frame netting of 6 holes wide; mecklenburg thread no. 8 or 10; needle no. 7. for the netted foundation, which is six holes wide, begin at one corner with 2 stitches, work 5 rows, at the end of each of which increase 1 stitch, continue to work the strip with the same number of stitches, alternately decreasing 1 at the end of one row and increasing 1 at the end of the next. for decreasing net 2 stitches together, for increasing net 2 stitches in the same hole. when the strip is sufficiently long, complete it by decreasing in the same proportion as the increasing at the beginning. as the pattern is so clearly shown in the illustration, it will be very easy to work from it. it is worked in point de feston and star wheels; the border is in point d'esprit. the insertion is finished on either side with a row of button-hole stitches. * * * * * 522.--_lace border in guipure d'art_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 8 or 10. this border may be used for various purposes; it makes a pretty edging for toilet cushions if worked in fine thread, and looks equally well for trimming couvrettes, &c., in no. 2 thread. the netting is nine holes wide, the stitches employed are point d'esprit and point de feston, the edge is in button-hole stitch, the netted ground is cut away outside the scallops. [illustration: 522.--lace border in guipure d'art.] * * * * * 523.--_square for d'oyley_ materials: frame; 1 square of netting; mecklenburg reel thread nos. 8 and 10; needle no. 6. [illustration: 523.--pattern of square for d'oyley.] this square may be used to form part of a couvrette, or a d'oyley, or pincushion. the three other corners of the square are worked exactly like the one seen in illustration; the rosette in the centre is shown in full size. the square is worked in point d'esprit, linen stitch, and point de reprise. each of the leaves of the foliage is worked in one hole of the netting; they are worked by throwing the cotton three times across the hole, and working darning stitch on them. the stem is worked in overcast on the thread of the netting. the daisy in the centre is worked like the leaves, each leaf taking up one or more holes of the netting. * * * * * [illustration: 524.--corner border in guipure d'art.] 524 _and_ 525.--_corner borders in guipure d'art_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 2 for couvrettes, no. 8 for pillow-cases, no. 16 for lace edgings. these corner borders are suitable for pillow-cases or small couvrettes; the stitches worked on these patterns are linen stitch, darning stitch, point de bruxelles, and wheels. the edge is formed by button-hole stitches. the netting is cut away after these are worked. [illustration: 525.--corner border in guipure d'art.] * * * * * 526.--_strip of insertion in guipure d'art._ material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 8. this strip of insertion is 8 stitches wide, and is worked in zigzag lines of point de feston, with a border of point d'esprit and point de toile; a four-point star occupies the centre of the triangle left by the zigzag line. this pattern is so easy to work that it hardly needs description, the only part requiring care being the squares of point de feston; these are begun in the centre, and the thread should be drawn rather tightly so as to form a good square. [illustration: 526.--pattern for a strip of insertion in guipure d'art.] * * * * * 527.--_small square_. materials: frame; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 4, 6, or 8 for the netting, and no. 16 for the pattern. [illustration: 527.--small square.] work over a mesh measuring 2-1/10 inch round the foundation of each square, which has seven stitches in length, and as many in breadth. it is embroidered in darning stitch, and point d'esprit, and wheels. the outer edge is worked round in button-hole stitch. larger squares are worked in the same manner, only a few rows larger in length and breadth. the squares are fastened together with a few stitches, and sewn on the pincushion or any article they are intended to ornament. * * * * * 528.--_insertion in guipure d'art_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 8, or 16 for very fine work. this strip of insertion is very pretty, and can be used for all kinds of lingeries. the size of the material depends, of course, on the use to be made of the insertion. the guipure pattern is worked in linen stitch and point d'esprit, the raised leaves in darning stitch. the edges are worked round with button-hole stitches. [illustration: 528.--insertion in guipure d'art.] * * * * * 529.--_rosette in guipure d'art._ [illustration: 529.--rosette in guipure d'art.] material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 6. this rosette is worked in point de toile and small wheels. a larger wheel occupies the centre, and is ornamented with a round of overcast. * * * * * 530.--_quarter of a square in guipure d'art_. materials: one guipure frame; mecklenburg thread nos. 6 and 12; needle no. 7. [illustration: 530.--quarter of a square in guipure d'art.] this pattern shows, in full size, one quarter of a square in guipure d'art. the outer border is in point d'esprit, then comes a border in linen stitch. there are large stars in the corners; these stars are worked in raised darning stitch only, and fastened on the netting at the points of each brand; in the centre of the star there is a wheel (see no. 515) edged with button-hole stitch. the pattern for the centre, one quarter of which only is seen in the illustration, consists of 4 branches forming small triangles in point de bruxelles, 4 open-worked stars or wheels worked over 4 holes of the netting, and a four-branched centre of point de feston with a wheel in the middle. * * * * * 531 _and_ 532.--_square patterns in guipure d'art_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s linen thread no. 2 for the netting, and their mecklenburg thread for the guipure stitches no. 8. [illustration: 531.--square pattern in guipure d'art.] no. 531. the outer border of this pretty square is worked in point d'esprit, the inner border in point de toile; then follows a round of small wheels or rosettes. for these, fasten the cotton to one of the knots of the first square stitch of this round, work one loop upon each of the three other knots, so as to form a slanting cross; then work round the centre point of the cross, passing alternately under and over its branches, then twist the cotton over the threads of the foundation until the next square is reached, and begin another wheel. [illustration: 532.--square pattern in guipure d'art.] the centre of no. 531 is composed of wheels and point de reprise; the pattern round the centre is worked in point de feston, differing a little from that given on pages 505 and 506, but the illustration clearly shows the difference. no. 532 has similar borders to no. 531; the centre is occupied by a star (see page 512) in point de feston; four large wheels surround this; the square stitches between are filled with small wheels and with groups of long loops, fastened together in sheaves. point d'esprit and point de toile, worked one way only, complete this square. * * * * * 533 _to_ 536.--_four patterns in guipure d'art_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 2 or 16, according to the size of the work. these four patterns will be found useful for filling up small squares, or for varying the usual groundwork of point d'esprit. [illustration: 533.--pattern in guipure d'art.] no. 533 is a succession of point de feston stitches, which half fill each square of the netting. this pattern must be worked with great regularity. [illustration: 534.--pattern in guipure d'art.] no. 534 consists of a kind of double point d'esprit. no. 535 is a thread twisted and taken _across_ each square, and resembles lace stitches. [illustration: 535.--pattern in guipure d'art.] no. 536 is a succession of small close wheels, intermingled with point d'esprit. this grounding is very effective. [illustration: 536.--pattern in guipure d'art.] * * * * * 537.--_lace border for veils, &c_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 16; strip of square netting of the required length; oblong frame. this simple border is easily and quickly worked. the edge is overcast, the ground worked in point d'esprit, the border in point de toile, and the pattern in point de reprise. when completed the netting is cut away from the overcast edge. [illustration: 537.--lace border for veils, &c.] * * * * * 538 _and_ 538_a_.--_squares in guipure d'art_. materials: 2 squares of netting of 8 holes; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 10 or 16, according to the fineness required. [illustration: 538.--square in guipure d'art.] these squares are very pretty for cravat ends, cuffs, or handkerchiefs. they are worked on netting with very fine cotton in the usual manner, beginning on two stitches in one corner the different stitches of the guipure darning can be distinctly seen in illustration, and are point de feston, point de reprise, point de toile, and point d'esprit on no. 538, and the same stitches surround a wheel in no. 538_a_. [illustration: 538_a_.--square in guipure d'art.] * * * * * [illustration: 539.--guipure d'art insertion.] 539.--_insertion in guipure d'art_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread nos. 8 to 16; strip of netting length, required. this insertion is worked in point de toile, and wheels worked in point de feston. the ground in point d'esprit. * * * * * 540 _and_ 541.--_square in guipure point de venise (reticella)_ materials: coarse or fine linen; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 4 or 12. [illustration: 540.--square in point de venise.] [illustration: 541.--quarter square in reticella work (enlarged).] this square is worked in the so-called point de venise, together with other squares; it is very pretty for covers, toilet cushions, &c. it is worked on coarse or fine linen, according to the use you wish to make of it. prepare a square piece of linen, by drawing out long and cross threads, so as to form perfect squares. in the pattern no. 540, which is worked on fine linen, 28 threads have been drawn out, both the long and cross way; 8 squares are formed in this way each time that 28 threads have been drawn out; leave 7 or 8 threads of the ground, which form the framework. then fasten the piece of linen on cardboard, and work close button-hole stitch round the inner edge then work with darning stitch over the long and cross threads of the ground. from no. 541, which shows the fourth part of the square 4 times larger than full size, it is easy to see how the framework is darned. when the latter is entirely darned, work the patterns in the different squares in button-hole stitch. the circular and serpentine patterns consist of 3 rows of button-hole stitch; the patterns which imitate whole rosettes and half rosettes are worked in rows of button-hole stitch. for each row the thread must be first drawn from one place to the other, as can be seen in illustration, and fastened on the framework. the knots in the last button-hole stitched row are made by working in each stitch when completed, another stitch, and drawing the cotton again through the first completed knot. it is easy, however, to work all the patterns from no. 541. the dotted lines in the right-hand corner show the direction of the patterns which are wanting there. the square is edged all round with an open-work hem, which can also be worked from no. 541. * * * * * 542 _and_ 543.--_corner patterns in guipure d'art_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 14. these patterns are very pretty for cushions, handkerchiefs, &c. the netted ground is to be worked from the corner. cast on 2 stitches, and work in rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every row. the pattern is worked in point d'esprit, linen, and darning stitch, as can be seen in illustration. [illustration: 542 and 543--corner borders.] * * * * * 544.--_flower for ornamenting cravats and caps in guipure d'art_. materials: black or coloured silks, or messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 10. [illustration: 544.--flower in guipure d'art.] this pattern is worked with middle-sized light-coloured purse silk in guipure d'art on netting. this pattern can also be worked with white thread or black silk in point de reprise. * * * * * 545.--_work basket with covering of darned netting_. materials: bamboo cane basket; blue satin; cardboard; netting; messrs. walter evans and co's mecklenburg thread no. 16. [illustration: 545.--work basket covered with guipure d'art.] this elegant basket is made of bamboo cane and blue satin, fastened on cardboard, and covered with guipure d'art. the stand of varnished bamboo is twelve inches long, seven and a half inches wide, and five and a half inches high. the case inside is made of cardboard, covered on both sides with blue satin, and the guipure d'art on the outside only. the stitches used are point de toile, point de reprise, and point d'esprit. * * * * * 546 _and_ 547.--_squares in guipure d'art_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 12 or 20; and point d'esprit according to the fineness required. [illustration: 546.--square in guipure d'art.] both these square patterns are suitable for ornamenting lingerie, cravats, collars, &c. repeated at regular intervals on a larger centre, they are likewise suitable for couvrettes, cushions, pillow-cases, &c.; they are worked in darning and linen stitch. [illustration: 547.--square in guipure d'art.] * * * * * 548.--_insertion in guipure d'art_. materials: strip of netting 6 holes wide, and of the required length; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 8 or 12. this simple insertion consists of double rows of wheels worked at each side of a strip of point d'esprit, an edge of button-hole stitches being worked between the rows. [illustration: 549.--guipure d'art insertion.] * * * * * 550 _and_ 551.--_squares for antimacassar_. materials: square of netting of 12 holes; messrs. walter evans and co's mecklenburg thread no. 8. [illustration: 550.--square for antimacassar.] no. 550 is very quickly worked. the border and groundwork in point d'esprit, the centre star in point de reprise, the pattern in point de toile. wheels fill in the four holes in the centre of the squares. no. 551 has a border in point d'esprit, the star is worked in point de feston, the other stitches are point de toile. wheels in part of star pattern no. 518. [illustration: 551.--square for antimacassar.] * * * * * 552 _and_ 553.--_borders in guipure d'art_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 8 or 16. these corner borders are very suitable for couvrettes, and, worked with fine thread, for pocket-handkerchiefs. the netted ground of the borders is to be worked in the size seen in illustration; for the border no. 553 darn the ground in button-hole stitch, darning stitch, point d'esprit, and point de feston; the pattern no. 552 is worked in linen stitch and point d'esprit; small wheels are also to be worked. both borders are to be worked round in button-hole stitch; the netted ground is cut away along the outside. [illustration: 552.--border in guipure d'art.] [illustration: 553.--border in guipure d'art.] * * * * * 554 _and_ 555.--_squares in guipure d'art_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 20; netted squares of 7 and 8 holes. [illustration: 554.--square in guipure d'art.] these two small squares are suitable for ornamenting cravats, lappets for caps and lingeries. they are worked in darning and linen stitch. the centre part of the square, no. 554, is a small wheel covered with raised stitches. [illustration: 555.--square in guipure d'art.] * * * * * 556.--_square in guipure d'art_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 12. the centre of this square is worked in point de feston as well as the border; point de toile forms the groundwork of the square in the centre, round which a row of button-hole stitch is worked. [illustration: 556.--square in guipure d'art.] * * * * * 557.--_insertion in guipure d'art_. materials: strip of netting of 4 holes in width; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 12. the ground of this simple pattern is worked in point d'esprit, square wheels are worked in the centre of the strip. [illustration: 557.--insertion in guipure d'art.] * * * * * 558 _to_ 563.--_different strips of insertion, rosettes and lace, in guipure d'art_. materials: fine white cotton; messrs. waiter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread nos. 16 and 20. these strips of insertion, rosettes, and borders are very suitable for ornamenting lingeries, cravats, &c. the ground of insertion, nos. 558 and 560, is worked with fine white cotton over a fine steel knitting-needle, in slanting netting, and darned with thread in the manner seen in illustrations. the ground of each strip is 11 rounds wide, and worked with button-hole stitch along the edges; the darned patterns can be worked from illustration. [illustration: 558.--insertion in guipure d'art.] [illustration: 559.--insertion in guipure d'art.] * * * * * [illustration: 560.--rosette in guipure d'art.] for the rosette, no. 560, cast on 6 stitches over a fine knitting-needle, and join the stitches into a circle; in the 1st round work 2 stitches in every stitch. in the 2nd--5th rounds work 2 stitches in every increased stitch of the preceding round, and in every other stitch 1 stitch. in the 6th round take a steel knitting-needle double the size of the first, and work over it 1 stitch in every stitch of the preceding round. then work the 7th round over the fine needle as follows:-[illustration: 561.--border in guipure d'art.] draw always the second stitch of 2 stitches through the first, and work 1 stitch in the stitch which has been drawn through the first, and then 1 stitch through the other stitch. in the 8th round work always 2 stitches in the stitch between the 2 crossed stitches, 1 stitch in all the other stitches. lastly, darn the rosette, from illustration, with fine glazed cotton. for the ground of the rosettes, illustrations nos. 562 and 563, cast on 6 stitches, join the stitches into a circle, and work then in the 1st round 2 stitches in every stitch; in the following 8 rounds 2 stitches in every increased stitch, in all the other stitches 1 stitch. the last (10th) round is worked without increasing. then darn the rosettes, from illustrations, with thread in darning stitch, linen stitch, and point d'esprit. the edges of the two rosettes are worked round in button-hole stitch; in every selvedge stitch work 3 button-hole stitches. these two rosettes can be joined together for small couvrettes. [illustration: 562.--rosette in guipure d'art.] [illustration: 563.--rosette in guipure d'art.] the ground of the border, no. 561, is formed by a strip of straight netting 9 squares wide, cut out in vandykes on one side, and worked round in button-hole stitch, as seen in illustration. this ground is darned, from no. 561, in darning stitch, point d'esprit, linen stitch, and ornamented with bars and wheels (see illustration). * * * * * [illustration: 564.--corner border in guipure d'art.] 564 _and_ 565.--_corner borders in guipure d'art_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 20 for handkerchief, or no. 8 for couvrettes. these corner borders are suitable for handkerchiefs, couvrettes, &c., or as strips of insertion for cushions or pillow-cases. they are worked with more or less fine cotton, according to the use they are meant for. they are edged round with button-hole stitch on the outside, and finished off with a row of crochet purl. work 1 double in every button-hole stitch; after every other stitch draw out the loop on the needle about one-tenth of an inch; take out the needle and leave the loop as a purl; take up 1 loop in last double stitch, and cast it off with the next double stitch. [illustration: 565.--corner border in guipure d'art.] * * * * * 566.--_jewel case, forming pincushion_. materials: deal box; satin ruche; satin ribbon; quilted satin and silk cord; guipure netting. this case consists of a square cardboard or deal box, lined with satin, and slightly quilted; it is also covered on the top with satin, and ornamented all round with a satin ruche four-fifths of an inch wide, pleated in the manner seen in illustration. the top of the box is stuffed so as to form a pincushion. it is then covered with guipure d'art no. 567. ornament all round with silk cords, and at the corners with bows of satin ribbon. [illustration: 566.--jewel case, with pincushion.] * * * * * 567.--_guipure pattern for jewel case_. materials: netting 25 holes square; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 14. this cover is worked in point d'esprit, point de toile, point de reprise, and point de feston. thick dots are introduced occasionally. [illustration: 567.--guipure pattern for jewel case (no. 566).] * * * * * 568.--_parasol cover in guipure d'art. (seepage 580.)_ materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 20, and cotton no. 80. for working this cover, one part of which is shown in our illustration two-thirds of its full size, work first a straight strip of netting for the foundation, which must count as many holes in width as are required for the width of the covering. the size of the holes depends on the size of the knitting-needle or mesh which you use. the pattern is worked with cotton no. 80, over a steel knitting-needle which measures two-fifths of an inch round. begin the strip in one corner. cast on 2 stitches, and work in rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every row, till you have 1 stitch more than the stripe is to have holes in width, on our pattern 68 stitches; then work 1 row on the same number of stitches, and then increase alternately 1 stitch at the end of 1 row, and decrease 1 at the end of the next, till the strip is 250 stitches long. the strip is finished off in a straight line at the bottom by working a certain number of rows in which the last stitch remains untouched. at the beginning of the row do not work 1 stitch ever the mesh, but only 1 knot in the stitch of the preceding row, so that the cotton is drawn on tight. when the strip is completed, trace from no. 568 the outlines for the pattern of each of the eight parts of the parasol with double thread, in such a manner that two parts lie next to each other, but reversed, that is, the point of one part must lie next to the wide part of the next part. then work in each part the pattern seen in illustration, and afterwards each part round with button-hole stitch, working over the double outline. cut out the different parts, and sew them together on the wrong side with close overcast stitch. * * * * * [illustration: 569.--scent sachet in guipure d'art.] 569.--_scent sachet in guipure d'art_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 18; green satin; poudre d'iris; green satin ribbon; green silk cord. the size of the netting depends on that of the sachet. the netting must be fastened in a frame, and darned with fine thread; the flowers are worked in darning stitch, and the ground in point d'esprit. the cushion is made of green satin, perfumed with poudre d'iris. when the netting has been fastened on, it is edged all round with a green satin ruche, and green silk cord, forming loops at every corner. * * * * * [illustration: 570.--square in guipure d'art.] 570.--_square in guipure d'art_. materials: netted square of 26 stitches; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 12. this pattern is worked in point d'esprit, edged with an outline of point de reprise. this outline may be worked in close button-hole stitch. point de toile is used for the groundwork, upon which point de reprise is worked. * * * * * 571 _and_ 572.--_work case in guipure d'art_. materials: blue satin; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 16; blue silk cord. [illustration: 571.--work case in guipure d'art (back).] this little work-case, of darned netting and blue satin, is five inches and four-fifths long, four inches wide, and is fastened with a loop and button. the back, front, side, and the flap are worked all in one piece. the netting is worked with white thread no. 12, over a mesh measuring at least two-fifths of an inch round. for the flap the netting must be slanted off on both sides; this is done either by decreasings, or by cutting off the corners of the work. the latter is then darned in linen stitch, darning stitch, and point d'esprit, from no. 572, which shows the front of the case, and from no. 571, which shows the back. the netting is then lined with blue satin, and sewn together at the sides with button-hole stitches on the right side. the flap is edged with button-hole stitch; sew on a small button, and make a small loop to correspond. the case is edged all round with blue silk cord. [illustration: 572.--work case in guipure d'art (front).] * * * * * 573.--_banner screen in guipure d'art_. materials: netting; messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 12; carved oak stand; glacé silk; cords; tassels. banner-screens are used in two ways, either suspended from the mantelpiece or mounted as shown in illustration no. 573. the banner is 23 inches long, 19 inches wide, lined with coloured glacé silk, and edged with a lace border of guipure d'art. the design for the banner is given in page 554. work the netting for the groundwork over a larger or smaller mesh, according to the size you wish it to be. the pattern is worked in point d'esprit, point de reprise, and point de toile. when the pattern is completed, line the banner with coloured silk, edge with a gathered border of guipure d'art, finish with coloured silk cords and tassels. the banner may be finished off in close button-hole stitch, instead of adding the lace border. [illustration: 573.--banner screen in guipure d'art.] * * * * * [illustration: 575.--border in guipure d'art.] 575.--_border in guipure d'art_. material: messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 8. this border is suited for couvrettes. it is worked in point d'esprit, point de reprise, or plain darning stitch, edged by a row of button-hole, and finished with a crochet edging. * * * * * [illustration: 576.--square in guipure d'art.] 576.--_square in guipure d'art_. materials: messrs. walter evans and co.'s mecklenburg thread no. 12; netted square of 20 holes. this pretty square is worked in a pattern formed by point de feston, point de toile, and point de reprise, the star in the centre as that shown on page 514, omitting the alternate points; border of point d'esprit, ground worked in simple crossed bars. table of the right size of mecklenburg thread to use in working:-|----------------------------------|--------------| | | no. | |----------------------------------|--------------| | antimacassars | 2 | | borders | 4 | | handkerchiefs | 20 | | insertions | 8 | | lace edgings and insertions | 16 | | lamp shades | 16 | | parasol covers | 18 | | sachets | 12 | | sofa cushions | 8 | | toilet cushions | 10 | | toilet mats | 10 | |----------------------------------|--------------| * * * * * frames may be obtained for large, middle-size, and small squares. oblong frames are used for working insertions and lace edgings. * * * * * berlin work instructions. berlin work includes every kind of stitch which is made upon canvas with wool, silk, or beads. the principal stitches used are common cross stitch, gobelin stitch, leviathan stitch, raised or velvet stitch, tent stitch, and others. the materials and needle must always be carefully chosen of a corresponding size. for common cross stitch and raised stitch penelope canvas must be used; for small articles, such as slippers, bags, or borders, single berlin wool is preferable; for larger ones fleecy wool or double berlin wool (the latter, however, is much more expensive). for gobelin stitch and tent stitch undivided canvas (not penelope) is required. purse silk is often used for the latter; it is more brilliant than floss silk or filoselle. floss silk is generally used for other stitches because it covers the thread of the canvas better than purse silk; it is, however, often replaced by filoselle, which is a much cheaper material. moss wool is hardly ever used. before beginning to work upon a piece of canvas the raw edges must be hemmed or sewn over with wool. care must be taken not to crumple the canvas in the course of the work. it is best to roll one end of the canvas upon a round piece of deal while the other end is kept down upon the table with a lead cushion. handsome artistic patterns should always be worked in a frame. when you undertake to work a large pattern begin in the centre, and complete one half before you commence the other. always work the stitches in the same direction, from the top downwards--this is very essential to the beauty and regularity of the pattern. always begin with the colour which is used the oftenest; those colours that lose their dye in working must be put in last. when the pattern is finished begin the grounding. the wool must not be drawn too tightly, otherwise the threads of the canvas appear. if the wool is too coarse for the canvas, one long stitch is to be made from left to right as far as the particular colour is to be worked, and over this long stitch, cross back in the usual way. the plainest stitch in berlin wool work is the common cross stitch; illustrations 577 to 584 show varieties of the same. we now proceed in the following pages to show, by description in writing and by most careful illustration, all the stitches which are used in berlin work. these are numerous, but neither too great in number nor too simple or too elaborate in execution for those who aspire to become berlin workers. * * * * * [illustration: 577.--common cross stitch.] illustration 577.--the common cross stitch is worked in rows backwards and forwards over 2 threads in height and 2 in width (square of the canvas) in straight lines; the 1st row is worked from left to right; the 2nd row, which completes the stitches, from right to left. illustration 577 shows 2 rows of completed stitches and 1 row in course of working. * * * * * [illustration: 578.--long cross stitch.] illustration 578 shows the long cross stitch. it is worked like the preceding one, only over 4 threads in height and 2 in width. * * * * * [illustration: 579.--long cross stitch.] illustration 579 shows a long cross stitch, which is worked like the preceding one, except that 2 threads are missed between 2 stitches, and in the next row the stitches are worked between those in the preceding row. this stitch is not worked in rows backwards and forwards; each stitch is completed before beginning the next. * * * * * [illustration: 580.--slanting cross stitch.] illustration 580.--the long slanting cross stitch is worked like no. 578, in rows backwards and forwards; the 1st row is slanting, the 2nd is straight. the places for inserting the needle and for drawing it out are marked on the illustration with a cross and dot. * * * * * [illustration: 581.--damask stitch.] illustration 581.--the damask stitch is worked in single rows from left to right, over 4 threads in height and 2 in width. the stitches of one row come between those of the next. the cross and dot shown in illustration are where to insert and draw out the needle. * * * * * [illustration: 582.--rep stitch.] illustration 582 shows the rep stitch--a variety of the preceding. the first half of it is worked slantways over 6 threads in height and 2 in width, the second half, like the common cross stitch, from right to left over the 3rd and 4th of the 6 canvas threads; each stitch is completed at once. the illustration shows the last stitch being worked; the first half of the stitch is completed; the dot shows where the needle must be inserted for the second half; it is drawn out where the cross is placed on illustration. * * * * * [illustration: 583.--leviathan stitch.] illustration 583.--the leviathan stitch consists of 1 slanting and 1 straight cross stitch over 4 threads in height and 4 in width. each stitch is completed immediately. no. 583 shows one half of the stitch completed and the wool as it must be placed for working the first half of the straight cross stitch. * * * * * [illustration: 584.--leviathan stitch.] illustration 584.--the leviathan stitch is worked exactly like the preceding, only the stitches are not worked on the same threads in the different rows, as may be seen from illustration. * * * * * [illustration: 585.--double leviathan stitch.] illustration 585.--the double leviathan stitch is a variety of the preceding; it is worked over 6 threads in height and as many in width. make a common cross stitch over these 6 threads, then a long cross stitch in height and a long cross stitch in width. illustration 585 shows 2 stitches completed and 1 being worked. * * * * * [illustration: 586.--tent stitch.] illustration 586.--tent stitch. each stitch is worked over 1 stitch in height and 1 in width, and is worked in rows from left to right. * * * * * [illustration: 587.--slanting gobelin stitch.] illustration 587.--the slanting gobelin stitch is worked on undivided canvas; each stitch is worked over 3 threads in height and 2 in width, divided from the next stitch only by an interval of 1 thread. * * * * * [illustration: 588.--straight gobelin stitch.] illustration 588.--the straight gobelin stitch is worked over 2 threads in height with 1 thread between, so that the stitches appear more raised; they are worked over thin cord or a thick piece of wool. * * * * * illustration 589.--the raised or velvet stitch is worked over small round wooden meshes, and forms small raised loops. take 2 similar meshes and as many threaded needles as there are colours in the work; make first a slanting stitch, as for the beginning of the common cross stitch, but instead of drawing out the needle straight under the place where it was inserted, draw it out exactly at the same place, so as to form a slanting stitch on the right and on the wrong side; then begin to work over 1 mesh; insert the needle above it and draw it out in a slanting direction underneath. on the wrong side of the work a regular cross stitch is formed. illustration 589 shows 2 rows of velvet stitch completed and 2 rows being worked; the first of the latter is yet on the mesh, the second being worked so as to show the position of the wool upon the mesh. observe that the rows of the velvet stitch are worked upwards, and that 2 meshes are necessary, because the lower one must not be drawn out before the next row is completed. the loops may be cut open if preferred. [illustration: 589.--raised or velvet stitch.] * * * * * [illustration: 590.--plaited stitch.] illustration 590.--the plaited stitch is worked like the herring-bone stitch. each stitch is worked over 4 threads in height and 4 in width. illustration 590 shows one part of the plaited stitch completed, and the place where the needle is to be inserted for the next stitch is marked by a dot. for the next stitch the needle is carried under the 2 threads below the stitches of the preceding row. * * * * * illustration 591.--the plush stitch is also worked upwards. begin to work a common cross stitch, then insert the needle through the canvas over 2 threads in height and 2 in width, downwards in a slanting direction. do not draw the wool close up, but leave a loop hanging down about four-fifths of an inch long, and make 1 more common cross stitch to fasten the loop. this stitch can also be worked over flat meshes. work a common cross stitch at the end of every row. when the work is completed the loops are cut open and clipped, as may be seen from illustration. [illustration: 591.--plush stitch.] * * * * * illustrations 592 to 594.--three berlin wool work borders for trimming baskets, &c. no. 592.--the 2 outer rows which edge the border are worked in long straight cross stitch; each stitch is crossed in the centre with a back stitch. [illustration: 592.--berlin work border.] the grounding consists of 2 rows of vandykes placed opposite each other, which are formed of long straight stitches of different lengths. the squares in the centre are formed in the same way, and are completed in the middle with a knot. no. 593.--the ground is worked in cross stitch, the raised patterns in satin stitch; in the middle of each pattern there is a cross stitch. the outer rows are worked in half cross stitch over 2 threads in height and 4 in width in 2 different shades. no. 594.--the petals of the flowers are worked over 4 threads in height and in width, and consisting of 4 slanting stitches. [illustration: 593--berlin work border.] [illustration: 594.--berlin work border.] in the centre the flower is completed by a knot; the ground in cross stitch is completed on either side by a narrow border of scallops, formed of slanting stitches divided in the centre by 1 slanting stitch. it is easy to work these stitches from illustration. the choice of colours depends upon what use the border is intended for and upon personal taste. * * * * * plates [illustration: tatted antimacassar (see page 80).] [illustration: 214--couvrette in appliqué] [illustration: 334--knitted table cover (_see page_ 347).] [illustration: 337--knitted d'oyley (_see page_ 352).] [illustration: 568.--parasol cover in guipure d'art (_see page 549_).] index. acacia spray in embroidery, 162. antimacassar, crochet, 276. antimacassar in tatting, 65. antimacassar, knitted, 318 to 320. appliqué, pattern for a couvrette in, 213 to 215. arm-chair, covered with crochet, 254. arm-chair in crochet, patterns for, 255,256. baby's boot, knitted, 326. bag, crochet silk, over rings, 245. banner screen in guipure d'art, 573, 574. bars, point lace. d'alençon, 463. point d'angleterre, 467. point de venise, edged, 468. point de venise, dotted, 469. raleigh, 471, 472. sorrento, 461, 462. sorrento, dotted, 469. venetian, plain, 464, 465, 466. basket, small, crochet, 239. basket, crochet, 272. basket, crochet, 273. basket, embroidered in chenille, 134. bedford plaited lace (1851), 423. bed-quilt, knitted border for, 327. berlin wool-work instructions, p. 559. berlin work, borders in, 592 to 594. berlin stitches. common cross stitch, 577. damask stitch, 581. leviathan stitch, 583, 584. leviathan double stitch, 585. long cross stitch, 578, 579. plaited stitch, 590. plush stitch, 591. raised or velvet stitch, 589. rep stitch, 582. slanting cross stitch, 580. slanting gobelin stitch, 587. straight gobelin stitch, 588. tent stitch, 586. (black lace) buckingham point trolly (1851), 422. bodice, knitted, 324, 325. boot, baby's, knitted, 326 borders, crochet, 252, 253 border, embroidered, 150. border for a reading-desk in embroidery, 204. border for couvrettes, guipure d'art, 561. borders for handkerchief, corner, in guipure d'art, 564, 565. borders, guipure d'art, 552, 553, 557. border, guipure d'art, 575. border in crochet and tatting, 52. border in oriental embroidery, 179. border in tatting and crochet, 6. border in tatting and crochet, 15. border in tatting and crochet, 22. border in tatting and lace stitch, 44. border in tatting, with beads, 13. border in tatting, with crochet edging, 5. border, knitted, 321. border, tatting, 47. borders, two crochet, 274, 275. border, with beads, tatted, 13. bouquet, embroidered, for travelling-bag, 169. braces, embroidered, 202. braces, knitted, 338. brioche cushion in crochet, 249. butterfly, embroidered, for handkerchief corner, 212. cap, border for, in tatting, 38. cap crown in tatting, 37. cap in tatting, 38, 39. chenille, basket embroidered in, 134. cigar-case, embroidered, 190. circle for collars, cuffs, &c., in tatting, 21. circle in tatting, 12. circle in tatting, 21. circle in tatting, 57. collar in tatting, 56. collar in tatting and darned netting, 28. collar, linen, trimmed with tatting, 49. collar, linen, trimmed with tatting, 54. collar, pine pattern, in tatting, 1. collar, tatted, 55. collar, trimming for, in tatting, 49. collar, trimming for, in tatting, 54. comforters, &c., knitting stitch for, 336. convolvulus leaf insertion in embroidery, 141. corner borders in guipure d'art, 524, 525. corner borders in guipure d'art, 542, 543. corner borders in guipure d'art, 564, 565. corner for handkerchief in point russe embroidery, 149. corner in embroidery, 151. corner in embroidery, 152. cotton, tatting, page 82. couvrette, centre of a tatted, 25. couvrette, daisy pattern for a, in crochet, 250. couvrette for arm-chair in crochet, 257. couvrette in appliqué, embroidery, 147. couvrette in crochet, 240 to 243. couvrette in tatting, 25. covering for a quilted counterpane in embroidery, 138. cravats, &c., in embroidery, patterns for, 184. cravats, &c., in embroidery, patterns for, 185. cravat in tatting, 50. cravat end in embroidery, 136. cravat end in embroidery, 153. cravat end in raised embroidery, 156. cravat end in tatting, 60. cravat end in tatting, 62. cravat end in tatting and darned netting, 64. cravat end, oval, in tatting, 51. cravat in muslin and tatting, 50. cravat, muslin, embroidered, 153. crochet, antimacassar in, 276. crochet, arm-chair covered with, 254. crochet, arm-chair, patterns for, 255, 256. crochet bag, silk, over rings, 245. crochet basket, small, 239. crochet basket, 272. crochet basket, 273. crochet borders, 252, 253. crochet borders, two, 274, 275. crochet, brioche cushion, 249. crochet, couvrette for arm-chair, 257. crochet, couvrette in, 240 to 243. crochet, daisy pattern for a couvrette in, 250. crochet d'oyleys in imitation of point lace. no. 1, 262. no. 2, 263. no. 3, 264. no. 4, 265. no. 5, 266. no. 6, 267. no. 7, 268. no. 8, 269. no. 9, 270. no. 10, 271. crochet garter, 285. crochet, insertion, 258. crochet, insertion, 259. crochet, insertion, 260. crochet, insertion, 277. crochet, insertion, 283. crochet, insertion, 284. crochet instructions. crochet hook, page 185. foundation chain, double, 217. foundation chain, plain, 216. foundation chain, purl, 218. spots, raised, 232. spots, hollow, 233. spots, open work, 234. crochet, lace, 251. crochet, lace, 261. crochet, purse in, over rings, 248. crochet rosettes, 280, 281. crochet sovereign purse, 246. crochet, star in, 244. crochet, stars in, 247. crochet stitches. cross stitch, 224. cross treble stitch, 229, 230, 231. double long treble stitch, 228. double stitch, 220, 221. long double stitch, 225. long treble stitch, 227. purl stitch, 236. purl stitch, 237. purl stitch, 238. raised treble stitch, 235. raised ribbed stitch, 222. raised slanting stitch, 223. slip stitch, 219. treble stitch, 226. crochet trimming for a lady's chemise, 286. crochet trimming, with embroidered flowers worked in appliqué and velvet ribbon, 282. crochet work, tobacco-pouch in, 278, 279. crochet work, work-basket in straw and, 272, 273. curtains, knitted pattern for, 339. daisy pattern for a crochet couvrette, 250. dalecarlian lace, 419. diamond in tatting, 20. diamond in tatting, 36. diamond in tatting, 53. diamond in tatting, 59. diamond netting, 306. diamond tatting for collars, &c., 20. d'oyleys, crochet, in imitation of point lace. no. 1, 262. no. 2, 263. no. 3, 264. no. 4, 265. no. 5, 266. no. 6, 267. no. 7, 268. no. 8, 269. no. 9, 270. no. 10, 271. d'oyley, knitted, 337. edgings and purled edgings, point lace. antwerp, 479. point d'angleterre, 477. point de bruxelles, 474, point d'espagne, 478. point de venise, 476. sorrento, 475. edging, embroidered, 178. embroidered border, 204. embroidered border, 150. embroidered bouquet for travelling bag, 169. embroidered braces, 202. embroidered braces, full-sized pattern for, 201. embroidered braces, full-sized pattern for, 203. embroidered butterfly for handkerchief corner, 212. embroidered cigar-case, 190. embroidered edging, 178. embroidered handkerchief, 197. embroidered hanging letter-case, 176. embroidered in chenille, basket, 134. embroidered key-bag, 182. embroidered key-bag, 183. embroidered knife-basket, 159. embroidered knife-basket, 160. embroidered lace insertion, 207. embroidered lady's purse, 157. embroidered letter-case, pattern for, 177. embroidered linen collar, 193. embroidered linen collar, 194. embroidered needle-book, pattern for, 166. embroidered needle-book, pattern for, 167. embroidered penwiper, full-sized circle for, 187. embroidered slipper, on java canvas, 208. embroidered slipper, point russe stitch for, 209. embroidered what-not, in the shape of a hammock, 195, 196. embroidery, acacia spray in, 162. embroidery and stitching, insertion in, 132. embroidery, appliqué, couvrette in, 147. embroidery border for a reading-desk, 204. embroidery, border in oriental, 179. embroidery, convolvulus leaf insertion in, 141. embroidery, corner for handkerchief in point russe, 149. embroidery, corner in, 151. embroidery, corner in, 152. embroidery, covering for a quilted counterpane in, 138. embroidery, cravat end in, 136. embroidery, cravat end in, 153. embroidery, cravat end in raised, 156. embroidery, fuchsia spray in, 161. embroidery, glove-box in, 174. embroidery, glove-box in, 175. embroidery, handkerchief border in, 197. embroidery, handkerchief in, 140. embroidery, insertion in, 131. embroidery, insertion in, 142. embroidery, insertion in, 145. embroidery, insertion in, 146. embroidery, insertion in, 155. embroidery, insertion in, 165. embroidery, insertion in, 188. embroidery, insertion in, 189. embroidery, insertion in, 192. embroidery instructions, p. 83. bead partly covered, 103. blossom in satin stitch, 101, 102. bluebell, 113. bluebell, inner part, 114. bluebell, part of, 116. borders, 118, 119. ear of corn, 112. flower, 115. flower in satin stitch, 107. flower appliquéd on net, 117, heartsease, 110. initials, 123 to 130. insertions, 120 to 122. leaf, 94. leaf in raised satin stitch, 90, 91. leaf, raised, 92, 93. leaf, raised, 95. leaf, half of, 99. leaf, centre of, 100. raised embroidered leaf, 98. raised flower, 111. raised leaf, 96. raised leaf, 97. raised satin stitch leaf, 90, 91. rose in satin stitch, 108. rose, petal for, 109. star, 106. star in point de reprise, 105. star in satin stitch, 104. stitch, embroidery. stitch, back, 70. stitch, button and eyelet holes, 86, 87. stitch, button-hole scallop, 82 to 85. stitch, double overcast, 67. stitch, knotted, 73, 74, 75. stitch, ladder, 80, 81. stitch, overcast, 68. stitch, point croisé, 71, 72. stitch, point de minute, 79. stitch, point de plume, 78. stitch, embroidery--_continued_. stitch, satin, raised, 76, 77. stitch, scallop, 66. stitch, shaded button-hole, 88, 89. stitch, slanting overcast, 89. embroidery, medallion for a purse in, 198. embroidery, medallion for a purse in, 199. embroidery, medallion in point russe, 210. embroidery, medallion in point russc, 211. embroidery, monograms and initials in. embroidery, alphabet in coral stitch, 353. embroidery, alphabet in floral, 361. embroidery, alphabet in florid style, 356. embroidery, alphabet in forget-me-nots, 352. embroidery, alphabet, point d'or, 357. embroidery, alphabet, raised satin stitch, 359. embroidery, alphabet in satin stitch, 351. embroidery, alphabet scalloped, 355. embroidery, alphabet, small, 354. embroidery, initials in, 366 to 417. embroidery, monograms in, 366 to 417. embroidery, names in, 362 to 418. embroidery, sampler in, 360. embroidery, star alphabet, capitals, 349. embroidery, star alphabet, small, 350. embroidery, white, alphabet in, 358. embroidery, pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in, 135. embroidery, pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in, 137. embroidery, pattern for cravats, &c., in, 184. embroidery, pattern for cravats, &c., in, 185. embroidery, pattern for cravat ends, &c., in, 133. embroidery, pattern for cravat ends, &c., in, 139. embroidery, pattern for trimming lingeries in, 143, 144. embroidery pattern for what-not (full size), 196. embroidery, penwiper in, 186, 187. embroidery, rose-leaf in, 173. embroidery, sandwich-case in, 154. embroidery stars, 137, 143, 144. embroidery stars, 180, 181. embroidery, table-napkin ring in, 158. embroidery, tobacco-pouch in, 163. embroidery, tobacco-pouch in, 164. embroidery, travelling-bag in, 168. embroidery, trimming in, for bodices, 170. embroidery, venetian border in, 206. embroidery, venetian, lappet or sash end in, 205. embroidery, waste-paper basket in, 191. embroidery, white, toilet-cushion cover in, 171, 172, 173. embroidery, wing of bird, 172. embroidery, work-bag in, 200. embroidery, wreath in, for centre of pincushion or toilet-mat, 148. english netting, 308 fichu, netted, 315, 316. flower in guipure d'art, 544. frame for guipure d'art 503. full-sized circle for embroidered pen-wiper, 187. fuchsia spray in embroidery, 161. garter, crochet, 285. glove-box in embroidery, 174. glove-box in embroidery, 175. gauge, knitting, 287. guipure d'art. guipure d'art, banner-screen in, 573, 574. guipure d'art, border for couvrettes in, 561. guipure d'art t, borders for handkerchief, corner, 564, 565. guipure d'art, borders in, 552, 553, 557. guipure d'art, border in, 575. guipure d'art, corner borders in, 524, 525. guipure d'art, corner borders in, 542, 543. guipure d'art, corner borders in, 564, 565. guipure d'art, flower in, 544. guipure d'art, frame for, 503. guipure d'art, insertion in, 521. guipure d'art, insertion in, 526. guipure d'art, insertion in, 528. guipure d'art, insertion in, 539. guipure d'art, insertion in, 548. guipure d'art, insertion in, 558. gaipure d'art, insertion in, 559. guipure d'art, insertions, &c., in, 558 to 563. guipure d'art, instructions in, p. 503. guipure d'art jewel-case cover, 567. guipure d'art, jewel-case covered in, 566. guipure d'art, lace borders for veils in, 537. guipure d'art, lace border in, 522. guipure d'art, parasol-cover in, 568. guipure d'art, quarter square in, 530. guipure d'art, rosettes in, 529. guipure d'art, rosettes in, 562, 563. guipure d'art stitches. grounding, 533 to 536. point de bruxelles, 509, 510. point d'esprit, 504. point de feston, 506. point de reprise, 507, 508. point de toile, 505. stars, 516 to 520. wheels, 511 to 515. guipure d'art, scent-sachet in, 569. guipure d'art, small squares, 527. guipure d'art, squares for antimacassar, 550, 551. guipure d'art, square for d'oyley in, 523. guipure d'art, squares in, for dresses, 546, 547. guipure d'art, square in, 531. guipure d'art, square in, 532. guipure d'art, square in, 556. guipure d'art, squares in, 570, 576. guipure d'art, squares in, 533 to 536. guipure d'art, squares in, 538, 538a. guipure d'art, squares in, 554, 555. (guipure d'art), square in reticella work, 540. (guipure d'art), square in reticella work, enlarged, 541. guipure d'art, work-basket covered with, 545. guipure d'art, work-case in, 571, 572. handkerchief border in embroidery, 197. handkerchief in embroidery, 140. hanging letter-case embroidered, 176. honiton guipure lace, 424. insertion, crochet, 258. insertion, crochet, 259. insertion, crochet, 260. insertion, crochet, 277. insertion, crochet, 283. insertion, crochet, 284. insertion in embroidery, 131. insertion in embroidery, 142. insertion in embroidery, 145. insertion in embroidery, 146. insertion in embroidery, 155. insertion in embroidery, 165. insertion in embroidery, 188. insertion in embroidery, 189. insertion in embroidery, 192. insertion in embroidery and stitching, 132. insertion in guipure d art, 521. insertion in guipure d'art, 526. insertion in guipure d'art, 528. insertion in guipure d'art, 539. insertion in guipure d'art, 548. insertion in guipure d'art, 558. insertion in guipure d'art, 559. insertions in guipure d'art, 558 to 563. insertions in tatting, 2. insertion in tatting, 7. insertion in tatting, 11. insertion in tatting, 14. insertion in tatting, 24. insertion in tatting, 31. insertion in tatting, 32. insertion in tatting and crochet, 41. insertion in tatting and crochet, 43. insertion in tatting and lace stitch, 23. insertion in tatting for trimming lingeries, 11. insertion, knitted, 340. insertion, wide, tatting, 10. insertion, wide, tatting, 14. insertion, wide, tatting, 43. insertion, worked in tatting, 10. instructions in berlin wool work, p. 559. berlin work, borders in, 592 to 594. berlin stitches. common cross stitch, 577. damask stitch, 581. leviathan stitch, 583, 584. leviathan double stitch, 585. long cross stitch, 578, 579. plaited stitch, 590. plush stitch, 591. raised or velvet stitch, 589. rep stitch, 582. slanting cross stitch, 580. slanting gobelin stitch, 587. straight gobelin stitch, 588. tent stitch, 586. instructions in crochet. crochet hook, p. 185. foundation chain, double, 217. foundation chain, plain, 216. foundation chain, purl, 218. spots, raised, 232. spots, hollow, 233. spots, open work, 234. instructions in embroidery. bead partly covered, 103. blossom in satin stitch, 101, 102. bluebell, 113. bluebell, inner part, 114. bluebell, part of, 116. borders, 118, 119. ear of corn, 112. flower, 115. flower in satin stitch, 107. flower appliquéd on net, 117. heartsease, 110. initials, 123 to 130. insertions, 120 to 122. leaf, 94. leaf, half of, 99. leaf, centre of, 100. leaf in raised satin stitch, 90, 91. leaf, raised, 92, 93. leaf, raised, 95. raised embroidered leaf, 98. raised flower, 111. raised leaf, 96. raised leaf, 97. raised satin stitch leaf, 90, 91. rose in satin stitch, 108. rose, petal for, 109. star, 106. star in point de reprise, 105. star in satin stitch, 104. stitch, embroidery. stitch, back, 70. stitch, button and eyelet holes, 85, 87. stitch, button-hole scallop, 82 to 85. stitch, double overcast, 67. stitch, knotted, 73, 74, 75. stitch, ladder, 80, 81. stitch, overcast, 68. stitch, point croisé, 71, 72. stitch, point de minute, 79. stitch, point de plume, 78. stitch, satin raised, 76, 77. stitch, scallop, 66. stitch, shaded button-hole, 88, 89. stitch, slanting overcast, 69. instructions in guipure d'art, p. 503. instructions in tatting. joining the work, p. v. pin, tatting, p. ii. shuttles, tatting, pp. i, iii. the way to hold the hands, p. iii. the way to make a loop in tatting, p. iv. the way to make a purl, p. v. the way to make a stitch in tatting, p. iv. jewel-case cover, guipure d'art, 567. jewel-case covered in guipure d'art, 566. key-bag, embroidered, 182. key-bag, embroidered, 183. knee-cap, knitted, 322. knife-basket, embroidered, 159. knife-basket, embroidered, 160. knitted antimacassar, 318 to 320. knitted baby's boot, 326. knitted bodice, 324, 325. knitted border, 321. knitted border for bed-quilt, 327. knitted braces, 338. knitted comforters, pattern for, 336. knitted counterpanes, pattern for, 313. knitted cover for sofa-cushion, 341, 342. knitted curtains, patterns for, 339. knitted d'oyley, 337. knitted insertion, 340. knitted knee-cap, 322. knitted neckerchief, 323. knitted pattern, 345. knitted pattern, with embroidery, 332. knitted purse, lady's, 317. knitted quilt, 328. knitted shawl, 346 to 348. knitted sleeping sock, 314. knitted sock for a child, 312. knitted table-cover, 333, 334. knitted veil, 330, 331. knitting cotton, table of sizes of, p. 368. knitting gauge, 287. knitting, looped, 335. knitting, materials required for, 287. knitting needles, 287. knitting on, 287. knitting, rosette for antimacassar in, 319. knitting stitches. brioche stitch, 301. casting off, 295. casting on, 288. decreasing, 293. increasing, 292. knitting on, 289. knotted stitch, 299. looped knitting, 335. moss borders, 300. peacock's tail pattern, 297. picking up stitches, 296. plain knitting, 290. purling, 291. round knitting, 294. spiral stitch, 298. knitting stitch for comforters, &c., 32. lace, bedford plaited (1851), 423. (lace, black), buckingham point troll (1851), 422. lace border for veils in guipure d'art 537. lace border in guipure d'art, 522. lace, crochet, 251. lace, crochet, 261. lace, dalecarlian, 419. lace, deep, in tatting, 27. lace edging in tatting, 3. lace edging in tatting, 4. lace, honiton guipure, 424. lace insertion, embroidered, 207. lace in tatting and crochet, 40. lace, mechlin (queen charlotte's), 4 lace, netted, 309. lace, netted, open, 310. lace, old mechlin, 420. lace point. braid, placing the, 442. braids, 426 to 431. cords, p. 453. edgings, 474 to 479. general directions for working, pp. 453, 454. materials required, p. 451. modes of working dots and picots, 470, 473. scissors for, 425. threads, sizes of, p. 500. lace, tatted, 26. lace, tatted, 27. lady's embroidered purse, 157. lady's veil in net and tatting, 16, 17. lappet or sash-end in. venetian embroidery, 205. linen collar embroidered, 193. linen collar embroidered, 194. linen tatting-bag, 46. linen bag for tatting cotton, 30. looped knitting, 335. materials required fur knitting, 287. materials required for netting. 302. mechlin lace (queen charlotte's), 421. medallion for a purse in embroidery, 198. medallion for a purse in embroidery, 199. medallion for trimming lingeries in tatting, 58. medallion in point russe embroidery, 210. medallion in point russe embroidery, 211. medallion, tatting, 58. mignardise and tatting, 29. monograms and initials in embroidery. alphabet, coral stitch embroidery, 353. alphabet, floral embroidery, 361. alphabet, florid style of embroidery, 356. alphabet, forget-me-nots (embroidered), 352. alphabet, point d'or (embroidered), 357. alphabet, raised satin stitch embroidery, 359. alphabet, satin stitch (embroidered), 351. alphabet, scalloped, in embroidery, 355. alphabet, small, in embroidery, 354. alphabet, star, capitals, in embroidery, 349. alphabet, star, small, in embroidery, 350. alphabet, white, embroidery, 358. initials in embroidery, 366 to 417. monograms in embroidery, 366 to 417. names in embroidery, 362 to 418. sampler in embroidery, 360. muslin cravat, embroidered, 153. neckerchief, knitted, 323. needle and mesh for netting, 302. needles, knitting, 287. netted fichu, 315, 316. netted lace, 309. netted nightcaps, 343, 344. netted open lace, 310. netted shell border, 311. netting, 302. netting, 303. netting stitches. diamond, 306. english, 308. bound, 305, 307. square, 304. netting, materials required for, 302. netting needle and mesh, 302. nightcaps, netted, 343, 344. old mechlin lace, 420. on knitting, 287. parasol-cover in guipure d'art, 568. patterns for arm-chair crochet borders, 255, 256. pattern for a couvrette in appliqué, 213 to 215. pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in embroidery, 135. pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in embroidery, 137. pattern for cravats, &c., in embroidery, 184. pattern for cravats, &c., in embroidery, 185. patterns, embroidery, for what-not (full size), 196. pattern for cravat ends, &c., in embroidery, 133. pattern for cravat ends, &c., in embroidery, 139. pattern for embroidered braces (full size), 201. pattern for embroidered braces (full size), 203. pattern for embroidered letter-case, 177. pattern for embroidered needle-book, 166. pattern for embroidered needle-book, 167. pattern for knitted comforters, 336. pattern for knitted counterpanes, 313. pattern for trimming lingeries in embroidery, 143, 144. patterns for veil in tatting, 18, 19. pattern, knitted, 345. patterns, point lace. alphabet, 502. alphabet, description of, 500 to 502. bars, d'alençon and sorrento, 494. borders, 482, 483. collars, 493, 496. cravat end, 487. design for point lace collar, lappets, &c., 490. dress trimming, 492. edgings, 488, 489. handkerchief border, 485. insertion (limoges), 484. lappet, 490. lappet, 497. letter __a in point lace, 500, 501. medallion, 481. oval for cravats, 491. star, 480. toilet cushion centre, 486. wheels, close english, 495. penwiper in embroidery, 186, 187. point lace. braid, placing the, 442. braids, 426 to 431. cords, p. 453. edgings, 474 to 479. general directions for working, 453, 454. materials required, p. 451. modes of working dots or picots, 470, 473. scissors for, 425. threads, sizes of, p. 500. point lace bars. d'alençon, 463. point d'angleterre, 467. point de venise, edged, 468. point de venise, dotted, 469. raleigh, 471, 472. sorrento, 461, 462. sorrento, dotted, 469. venetian, plain, 464, 465, 466. point lace edgings and purled edgings. antwerp, 479. point d'angleterre, 477. point do bruxelles, 474. point d'espagne, 478. point de venise, 476. sorrento, 475. point lace patterns. alphabet, 502. alphabet, description of, 500, 502. bars, d'alençon and sorrento, 494. borders, 482, 483. collars, 493, 496. cravat end, 487. design for point lice collar, lappets, &c., 490. dress trimming, 492. edgings, 488, 489. handkerchief border, 485. insertion (limoges), 484. lappet, 490. lappet, 497. letter _a_ in point lace, 500, 501. medallion, 481. oval for cravats, 491. star, 480. toilet cushion centre, 486. wheels, close english, 495. point lace stitches. brussels lace, 433, 434. escalier lace, 454. mechlin lace, 453. point d'angleterre, 444. point d'angleterre, enlarged, 445. point d'anvers, 498. point d'alençon, 442. point d'alençon, 443. point brabançon, 449. point de bruxelles, 433, 434. point de cordova, 447. point d'espagne, 437. point d'espagne; close, 438. point d' espagne, treble, 439. point de fillet, 450. point de fillet and point reprise, 451. point de grecque, 440, 499. point de reprise. 448. point de tulle, 452. point turque, 446. point de valenciennes, 441. point de venise, 435. point de venise, petit, 436. spanish point, 455. point lace wheel and rosettes. english, plain, 458. english, raised, 459. mechlin, 453. rosette for centres, 460. sorrento, 456, 457. wheels and rosettes, 456, 457. point russe stitch for embroidered slipper, 209. purse, crochet sovereign, 246. purse in crochet over rings, 248. parse in tatting and beads, 42. purse, knitted, 317. quarter-square in guipure d'art, 530. quilt, knitted, 328. rose-leaf in embroidery, 173. rosettes, crochet, 280, 281. rosettes, embroidery and tatting, 48, 61, 63. rosette for antimacassar in knitting, 319. rosettes in guipure d'art, 529, 562, 563. rosette in tatting, 8. rosette in tatting, 34. rosette in tatting, 35. rosette in tatting, 45. rosette in tatting and embroidery, 48. rosette in tatting and embroidery, 61. rosette in tatting and embroidery, 63. round netting, 305, 307. sandwich-case in embroidery, 154. scent-sachet in guipure d'art, 569. shawl, knitted, 346 to 348. shell border, netted, 311. sleeping sock, knitted, 314. slipper, embroidered on java canvas, 208. sock, knitted, for a child, 312. sofa-cushion, knitted cover for, 341, 342. squares for antimacassar in guipure d'art, 550, 551. square for d'oyley in guipure d art, 523. square, guipure d'art, 531. square, guipure d'art, 532. square, guipure d'art, 556. squares, guipure d'art, 570, 576. squares in guipure d'art, 533 to 536. squares in guipure d'art, 538, 538a. squares in guipure d'art, 554, 555. squares in guipure d'art for dresses, 546, 547. square in reticella work (guipure d'art), 540. square in reticella work (guipure d'art), enlarged, 541. square in tatting for pincushion or couvrette, 33. square netting, 304. squares, small, in guipure d'art, 527. star, crochet, 244. stars in crochet, 247. stars in embroidery, 137, 143, 144. stars in embroidery, 180, 181. star in tatting, 9. stitches, crochet. cross stitch, 224. cross treble stitch, 229, 230, 231. double long treble stitch, 228. double stitch, 220, 221. long double stitch, 225. long treble stitch, 227. purl stitch, 236. purl stitch, 237. purl stitch, 238. raised treble stitch, 235. raised ribbed stitch, 222. raised slanting stitch, 223. slip stitch, 219. treble stitch, 226. stitches, guipure d'art. grounding, 533 to 536. point de bruxelles, 509, 510. point d'esprit, 504. point de feston, 506. point de reprise, 507, 508. point de toile, 505. stars, 516 to 520. wheels, 511 to 515. stitches, knitting. brioche stitch, 301. casting off, 295. casting on, 288. decreasing, 293. increasing, 292. knitting on, 289. knotted stitch, 299. looped knitting, 335. moss borders, 300. peacock-tail pattern, 297. picking up stitches, 296. plain, 290. purling, 291. round knitting, 294. spiral stitch, 298. stitches, netting. diamond, 306. english, 308. round, 305, 307. square, 304. stitches, point lace. brussels lace, 433, 434. escalier lace, 454. mechlin lace, 453. point d'alençon, 442. point d'alençon, 443. point d'angleterre, 444. point d'angleterre, enlarged, point d'anvers, 498. point brabançon, 449. point de bruxelles, 433, 434. point de cordova, 447. point d'espagne, 437. point d'espagne, close, 438. point d'espagne, treble, 439. point de fillet, 450. point de fillet and point reprise, 451. point de grecque, 440, 499. point de reprise, 448. point de tulle, 452. point turque, 446. point de valenciennes, 441, point de venise, 435. point de venise, petit, 436. spanish point, 455. table-cover, knitted, 333, 334. table-napkin ring in embroidery, 153. table of sizes of knitting cotton, p. 363. tatting and beads, purse in, 42. tatting and crochet, border in, 22. tatting and crochet, border in, 52. tatting and crochet, insertion in, 41. tatting and crochet, insertion in, 43. tatting and crochet, lace in, 40. tatting and darned netting, collar in, 28. tatting and darned netting, cravat-end in, 64. tatting and embroidery, rosette in, 48. tatting and embroidery, rosette in, 61. tatting and embroidery, rosette in, 63. tatting and lace stitch, insertion in, 23. tatting and mignardise, 29. tatting and muslin, cravat in, 50. tatting and net, lady's veil in, 16, 17. tatting, antimacassar in, 65. tatting-bag, linen, 46. tatting, border, 47. tatting, border for cap in. 6. tatting, border in crochet and, 15. tatting, border in crochet and, 22. tatting, border in, with crochet edging, 5, 6. tatting, border in lace stitch and, 44. tatting, border, with beads, 13. tatting, cap-crown in, 37. tatting, cap in, 38, 39. tatting, circle for collars, cuffs, &c., in, 21. tatting, circle in, 12. tatting, circle in, 21. tatting, circle in, 57. tatting, collar in, 55. tatting, collar in, 56. tatting, collar, pine pattern in, 1. tatting-cotton, p. 82. tatting-cotton, linen bag for, 30. tatting, couvrette, centre of a, 25. tatting, cravat-end in, 60. tatting, cravat-end in, 62. tatting, oval cravat-end in, 51. tatting, cravat in, 50. tatting, deep border in crochet and, 52. tatting, deep lace in, 27. tatting, diamond in, 20. tatting, diamond in. 36. tatting, diamond in, 53. tatting, diamond in, 59. tatting, diamond, for collars, &c., 20. tatting, insertion, 27. tatting, insertion, 11. tatting, insertion, 14. tatting, insertion, 24. tatting, insertion, 31. tatting, insertion, 32. tatting, insertion in, for trimming lingeries, 11. tatting, insertion worked in, 10. tatting instructions. joining the work, p. v. pin, tatting, p. ii. shuttles, tatting, pp. i, iii. the way to hold the hands, p. iii. the way to make aloop in tatting, p. iv. the way to make a purl, p. v. the way to make a stitch in tatting, p. iv. tatting, lace, 26. tatting, lace, 27. tatting, lace edging in, 3. tatting, lace edging in, 4. tatting, linen collar trimmed with, 49. tatting, linen collar trimmed with, 54. tatting, medallion for trimming lingeries in, 58. tatting, oval cravat-end in, 51. tatting, patterns for veils in, 18, 19. tatting, rosette in, 8. tatting, rosette in, 34. tatting, rosette in, 35. tatting, rosette in, 45. tatting, square in, for pincushion or couvrette, 33. tatting, star in, 9. tatting, trimming for collar in, 49. tatting, trimming for collar in, 54. tatting, wide insertion in, 10. tatting, wide insertion in, 14. tatting, wide insertion in, 43. tatting, with beads, border in, 13, tobacco-pouch in crochet work, 278, 279. tobacco-pouch in embroidery, 163. tobacco-pouch in embroidery, 164. toilet-cushion cover in white embroidery, 171, 172, 173. travelling-bag in embroidery, 168. trimming, crochet, with embroidered flowers worked in appliqué and velvet ribbon, 282. tramming for a lady's chemise, in crochet, 286. trimming in embroidery for bodices, 170. veil, knitted, 330, 331. veil, lady's, in net and tatting, 16, 17. veils, patterns for, in tatting, 19. venetian border in embroidery, 206. waste-paper basket in embroidery, 191. what-not, embroidered in the shape of a hammock, 195, 196. wheels and rosettes, point lace. english plain, 458. english raised, 459. mechlin, 453. rosette for centres, 460. sorrento, 456, 457. wheels and rosettes, 456, 457. wing of bird in embroidery, 172. work-bag in embroidery, 200. work-basket covered with guipure d'art, 545. work-basket in straw and silk crochet* work, 272, 273. work-case in guipure d'art, 571, 572. wreath in embroidery for centre of pin-cushion or toilet-mat, 148. * * * * * 