




Transcriber's Note

Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of corrections
is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and
hyphenation have been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelled
and hyphenated words is found at the end of the text.




                             THE

                           LADIES'
                      WORK-TABLE BOOK;

                         CONTAINING

              CLEAR AND PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS

                             IN

                 PLAIN AND FANCY NEEDLEWORK,
         EMBROIDERY, KNITTING, NETTING, AND CROCHET.

                  WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS,
  ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE VARIOUS STITCHES IN THOSE USEFUL AND
                  FASHIONABLE EMPLOYMENTS.


                          NEW-YORK:
                J. WINCHESTER, 30 ANN-STREET
                            1844.




INTRODUCTION.


If it be true that "home scenes are rendered happy or miserable in
proportion to the good or evil influence exercised over them by
woman--as sister, wife, or mother"--it will be admitted as a fact of the
utmost importance, that every thing should be done to improve the taste,
cultivate the understanding, and elevate the character of those "high
priestesses" of our domestic sanctuaries. The page of history informs
us, that the progress of any nation in morals, civilization, and
refinement, is in proportion to the elevated or degraded position in
which woman is placed in society; and the same instructive volume will
enable us to perceive, that the fanciful creations of the needle, have
exerted a marked influence over the pursuits and destinies of man.

To blend the useful, with the ornamental and to exhibit the gushing
forth of mind, vitalised by the warm and glowing affections of the
heart, is the peculiar honor and sacred destiny of woman. Without her
influence, life would be arrayed in sables, and the proud lords of
creation would be infinitely more miserable and helpless than the beasts
that perish. To render then those "terrestrial angels" all that our
fondest wishes could desire, or our most vivid imaginations picture,
must be, under any circumstances, a pleasing and delightful employment;
while for a father or a brother to behold her returning all the care
bestowed upon her, by the thousand offices of love, to the performance
to which she alone is equal, is doubtless one of the most exalted
sources of human felicity.

Providence has, in a remarkable manner, adapted woman's tastes and
propensities to the station she was designed to occupy in the scale of
being. Tender and affectionate, it is her highest bliss to minister to
the wants, the convenience, or the pleasure of those she loves; and
hence, her inventive powers have been, in all ages, called into early
and active exercise, in the fabrication of those articles calculated to
accomplish those desirable ends. Amongst these, Useful and Ornamental
Needlework, Knitting, and Netting, occupy a distinguished place, and
are capable of being made, not only sources of personal gratification,
but of high moral benefit, and the means of developing in surpassing
loveliness and grace, some of the highest and noblest feelings of the
soul.

To become an expert needle-woman should be an object of ambition to
every fair one. Never is beauty and feminine grace so attractive, as
when engaged in the honorable discharge of household duties, and
domestic cares. The subjects treated of in this little manual are of
vast importance, and to them we are indebted for a large amount of the
comforts we enjoy; as, without their aid, we should be reduced to a
state of misery and destitution of which it is hardly possible to form
an adequate conception. To learn, then, how to fabricate articles of
dress and utility for family use, or, in the case of ladies blessed with
the means of affluence, for the aid and comfort of the deserving poor,
should form one of the most prominent branches of female education. And
yet experience must have convinced those who are at all conversant with
the general state of society, that this is a branch of study to which
nothing like due attention is paid in the usual routine of school
instruction. The effects of this neglect are often painfully apparent in
after life, when, from a variety of circumstances, such knowledge would
be of the highest advantage, and subservient to the noblest ends, either
of domestic comfort, or of active and generous benevolence.

The records of history inform us of the high antiquity of the art of
needlework; and its beautiful mysteries were amongst the earliest
developments of female taste and ingenuity. As civilization increased,
new wants called forth new exertions; the loom poured forth its
multifarious materials, and the needle, with its accompanying
implements, gave form and utility to the fabrics submitted to its
operations. No one can look upon THE NEEDLE, without emotion; it is a
constant companion throughout the pilgrimage of life. We find it the
first instrument of use placed in the hand of budding childhood, and it
is found to retain its usefulness and charm, even when trembling in the
grasp of fast declining age. The little girl first employs it in the
dressing of her doll: then she is taught its still higher use, in making
up some necessary articles for a beloved brother, or a revered parent.
Approaching to womanhood, additional preparations of articles of use, as
ornaments of herself and others, call for its daily employment; and with
what tender emotions does the glittering steel inspire the bosom, as
beneath its magic touch, that which is to deck a lover or adorn a
bride, becomes visible in the charming productions of female skill and
fond regard. To the adornments of the bridal bed, the numerous
preparations for an anxiously-expected little stranger, and the various
comforts and conveniences of life, the service of this little instrument
is indispensible. Often too is it found aiding in the preparation of
gifts of friendship, the effects of benevolence, and the works of
charity. Many of those articles, which minister so essentially to the
solace of the afflicted, would be unknown without it; and its friendly
aid does not desert us, even in the dark hour of sorrow and affliction.
By its aid, we form the last covering which is to enwrap the body of a
departed loved one, and prepare those sable habiliments, which custom
has adopted as the external signs of mourning.

The needle is also capable of becoming an important monitor to the
female heart; and we would impress this truth seriously upon their
recollection, that as there is

              "Sermons in stones,
    And good in every thing."

so the needle they so often use, is, or may be, a silent but salutary
moral teacher. They all know that however good the eye of a needle may
be, if it were rusted and pointless, it would be of little use. Let them
also recollect, that though it may posses the finest point and polish in
the world, if destitute of the eye, it would be of no use at all. The
lesson we wish them to derive from hence, is this; that as it is the eye
which holds the thread, and that it is by the thread alone that the
needle becomes useful, so it is the eye of intelligence directed to the
attainment of useful ends, that gives all the real value to the point
and polish, which is so much admired in the educated female; and that
unless the intellectual powers of the mind be engaged in the pursuits of
goodness, all other endowments will be useless to their possessor. Let
them learn also, not to despise such of their companions as, though
intelligent and useful, are neither possessed of wit or elegance equal
to their own. Circumstances may have rendered them, like the needle,
rusty and pointless; but the eye of intelligence is there, and they may
still be useful.

The want of a work containing clear instructions, without unnecessary
diffuseness, by which the uninitiated may become their own instructors,
has long been sensibly felt; and this want, the following pages are
intended to supply. Our aim is, not to make young ladies servile
copyists, but to lead them to the formation of habits of thought and
reflection, which may issue in higher attainments than the knitting of a
shawl, or the netting of a purse.

Indeed, it is only when accomplishments are rendered subservient to the
development of moral goodness, that they may become pursuits at all
worthy of an accountable being. We were not sent into this world to
flutter through life, like the gaudy butterfly, only to be seen and
admired. We were designed to be useful to our fellow beings; and to make
all our powers and capabilities, in some way or other conducive to the
happiness and welfare of our co-journeyers on the path of time. To this
end, we wish our fair countrywomen to devote their best attention; and,
in its attainment, to exert every energy which they possess. We wish
them to make all the knowledge which they may acquire subserve some
noble purpose, which will outlive the present hour. But to do this, the
well-spring of the purest affections must be opened in the soul; and the
elegant productions of taste and genius become vitalized, and animated,
by the spirit of love. Thus, and thus only, can the occupations of a
leisure hour be converted into efficient ministers of good; and such
they will assuredly be found, if practised from right motives, and
placed in due subordination to the right exercise of more important
duties, which we owe to Heaven, to our fellow beings, and to ourselves.

We are anxious to render elegant amusements conducive to the attainment
of moral ends; and to lay that foundation of intellectual superiority,
and affectionate regard, for the comfort and happiness of others, which
can alone give light and animation, sweetness and blooming freshness, to
the interesting scenes of future life. All engagements, which are
calculated to elevate, soften, and harmonize the human character, have
this tendency; and it is in the assured conviction that the employments
here treated of, are, when cultivated in due subordination to higher
duties, well adapted to secure these objects, and to promote these
domestic ends, that the Ladies' Work-Table Book has been prepared, and
is now presented to the lovely daughters of our land. The public will be
the best judge how far we have succeeded in our effort. Small as the
work is, it has not been produced without much labor, and considerable
exercise of thought; and it is dedicated to our fair countrywomen, in
the fervent hope, that it will not be found altogether unworthy of their
favorable notice and regard.

In concluding these introductory remarks, we wish to say a word or two
to the parents and guardians of those, whose excellence of character is
so essential to the welfare of our beloved country. We trust by you, our
little manual will be cordially approved, and placed, as a memento of
affection, in the hands of those you most desire to see models of
sincerity, elegance, and accomplishments. This will be well; but we
trust the matter will not be allowed to rest there. It is not when good
instructors and proper books are provided for the young, that the duties
of the parental relationship are performed. No; care must be taken to
give efficiency to the means thus called into requisition, by the most
assiduous care, devoted attention, and judiciously expressed approval on
the part of those who claim the highest regard from the rising
generation. The path of education is not always strewed with flowers,
nor can it ever be pursued with either pleasure or advantage unless a
foundation of practical piety and moral worth be laid, on which the
superstructure may securely rest.

It has been well remarked "that intellect may be cultivated at school,
but that the affections of the heart can only be properly developed amid
the scenes of home." Our aim in this work has been, while seeking to
promote the purposes of genuine education, to raise high the moral
sentiments, and cultivate to an eminent degree the best sensibilities of
the soul. In this we ask for your cordial and careful co-operation. We
know the influence of a judicious mother, and we confidently commend our
labor to your favorable regard.




CONTENTS.


  CHAPTER I.
  MATERIALS AND IMPLEMENTS FOR WORKING                              17

  CHAPTER II.
  PLAIN NEEDLEWORK--EXPLANATION OF STITCHES                         28

  CHAPTER III.
  PLAIN NEEDLEWORK--INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF BODY LINEN   37

  CHAPTER IV.
  PLAIN NEEDLEWORK--INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF HOUSE LINEN  54

  CHAPTER V.
  PLAIN NEEDLEWORK--MISCELLANEOUS INSTRUCTIONS                      59

  CHAPTER VI.
  FANCY NEEDLEWORK--EXPLANATION OF STITCHES                         63

  CHAPTER VII.
  FANCY NEEDLEWORK--EXPLANATION OF PATTERNS                         71

  CHAPTER VIII.
  FANCY NEEDLEWORK--INSTRUCTIONS IN EMBROIDERY                      79

  CHAPTER IX.
  FANCY NEEDLEWORK--PREPARATION OF FRAMES                           82

  CHAPTER X.
  FANCY NEEDLEWORK--APPLICATION OF FANCY NEEDLEWORK TO USEFUL
  PURPOSES                                                          88

  CHAPTER XI.
  FANCY NEEDLEWORK--SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS                            91

  CHAPTER XII.
  KNITTING--EXPLANATION OF STITCHES                                 97

  CHAPTER XIII.
  KNITTING--EXAMPLES IN KNITTING                                   111

  CHAPTER XIV.
  NETTING--EXPLANATION OF STITCHES                                 125

  CHAPTER XV.
  NETTING--EXAMPLES IN NETTING                                     135

  CHAPTER XVI.
  CROCHET--EXPLANATION OF THE PRINCIPAL STITCHES IN CROCHET WORK   142

  CHAPTER XVII.
  CROCHET--EXAMPLES IN CROCHET                                     148

  CHAPTER XVIII.
  TATTING--EXPLANATION OF STITCHES                                 153

  CHAPTER XIX.
  CONCLUDING REMARKS                                               155




THE LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK.


CHAPTER I.

MATERIALS AND IMPLEMENTS FOR WORKING.


MATERIALS FOR PLAIN NEEDLEWORK.

The subject of this chapter is one to which it is hardly possible to pay
too much attention; since, on the judicious selection of materials,
depends, to a vast extent, the success of that prudent and
well-regulated economy, which is so essential to the welfare and
prosperity of every family. On this account, we have thought it right to
place before our readers the following observations, which should be
carefully attended to, as of the utmost importance. In purchasing goods,
be careful to examine the quality; and, if not experienced in such
matters, take with you an experienced friend. Cheap goods generally
prove the dearest in the end. The following rules may assist you in this
respect, if under the necessity of relying upon your own judgment. Be
careful, in purchasing articles, such as linen, calico, &c., for a
specific purpose, to have it the proper width. A great deal of waste may
be incurred, by inattention to this important direction.

CALICO is often so dressed up, as to make it extremely difficult to
ascertain its real quality: hence, it is best to buy it undressed. It
should be soft, and free from specks. It is of various widths, and of
almost all prices. A good article, at a medium price, will be found
cheapest in the end.

LINEN is of various qualities. That which is called Suffolk hemp is
considered the best. Irish linen is also in great repute. But you must
be careful to escape imposition; as there are plenty of imitations,
which are good for nothing.

MUSLIN CHECKS are much used for caps, &c., and are of various qualities.
You may form a good judgment of these, by observing the thin places
between the checks and the threads; if the former be good, and the
latter even, they may generally be relied on.

BLUE CHECKS.--These may be procured either of cotton or linen; but the
linen ones, though highest in price, are cheapest in the end: they will
wear double the length of time that the cotton ones will.

PRINTS.--Give a good price, if you wish to secure a good article. Some
colors, as red, pink, lilac, bright brown, buff, and blue, wear well;
green, violet, and some other colors are very liable to fade. The best
way is to procure a patch, and wash half of it. This will test the
color, and may prevent much disappointment.

FLANNELS.--The Welsh flannels are generally preferred, as those that are
the most durable. Lancashire flannels are cheapest, but are far inferior
in quality. You may know the one from the other by the color: the
flannels of Lancashire are of a yellowish hue; those of Wales are a kind
of bluish gray tint.

WOOLLEN CLOTHS.--These vary exceedingly, as to quality. The low-priced
ones are not worth half the purchase money. Good woollen cloth is
smooth, and has a good nap. If the sample shown you, be destitute of
these qualities, have nothing to do with it, unless you want to be
cheated.

STUFFS.--The quality of these is sometimes very difficult to detect.
Holding them up to the light is a good plan. You should also be
particular as to the dyeing, as that is sometimes very indifferently
managed, and the stuff is dashed. Black dye is liable to injure the
material. Low-priced stuffs are rarely good for anything.

CRAPE.--This is often damaged in the dying. You should spread it over a
white surface before you purchase it, as by that means, the blemishes in
the material, if any, will be more likely to appear.

SILKS.--These are, if good, costly; and great care should be exercised
in selecting them. They should not be too stiff, as in that case they
are liable to crack; and on the other hand, they should not be too thin,
as that kind is liable to tear almost as soon as paper. A medium
thickness and stiffness is the best. If plain, you must be careful that
there are no stains or specks in them; and if figured, it is advisable
to have the pattern equally good on both sides. This will enhance the
price at first, but you will find it to be good economy afterward. In
silks that are to be sold cheap, a kind of camel's hair is frequently
introduced. This may be detected by pulling a piece of the suspected
silk cross ways, and if camel's hair be mixed with it, it will spring
with a kind of whirring sound. This should be attended to.

SATIN.--It is of various qualities and prices. The best is soft and
thick. When used for trimmings, it should be cut the cross way, as it
then looks better, and has a much richer appearance than when put on
straight.

These general observations will be of great use, and should be well
impressed upon the memory, so as readily to be called into exercise when
needed.

In making up linen, thread is much preferable to cotton. Sewing-silk
should be folded up neatly in wash leather, and colored threads and
cotton in paper, as the air and light are likely to injure them.
Buttons, hooks and eyes, and all metal implements, when not in use,
should be kept folded up; as exposure to the air not only tarnishes
them, but is likely to injure them in a variety of ways.


MATERIALS FOR FANCY NEEDLEWORK.

Canvas (coarse) eighteen threads to the inch. Work in cross stitch with
double wool. This is proper for a foot-stool, sofa-pillow, &c.

Canvas (very coarse) ten threads to the inch. Work in cross stitch, over
one thread, with single wool. If used for grounding, work in two
threads. This will accelerate the work, and look equally well.

Silk Leaves.--If no grounding is required, work in tent stitch. The
pattern should be large in proportion to the fineness of the material.
The finer the canvas, the larger the pattern.

Color.--An attention to shade is of the utmost consequence; as on this,
in an eminent degree, depends the perfection of the work. The shades
must be so chosen, as to blend into each other, or all harmony of
coloring will be destroyed. The canvas must be more distinct in tent
stitch than in cross stitch, or rather more strongly contrasted,
especially in the dark shades of flowers: without attention to this
point, a good resemblance of nature cannot be obtained.

Wool, (English and German) white, black, and various colors.--Two,
three, four, five, or six shades of each color, as the nature of the
work may require. The same observation applies to silk and cotton, in
cases where those materials are used.

Split wool, for mosaic work.

Silk. Split silk. Floss. Half twist. Deckers. China silk. Fine purse
silk.

Cotton, of various kinds.

Gold twist. Silver thread. Chenille.

Beads. Thick and transparent gold. Bright and burnt steel. Silver
plated, &c.

Perforated cards.

Canvas, called bolting, for bead work.


SCALE OF CANVASES.

              English Canvas.
  -------------------------------------------
  Canvas No.    Cross stitch.    Tent stitch.
  -------------------------------------------
      16           4-1/2              9
      18           5                 10
      20           5-1/2             11
      22           6                 12
      24           6-1/2             13
      26           7                 14
      28           7-1/2             15
      30           8                 16
      32           9                 18
      34           9-1/2             19
      36          10                 20
      38          10-1/4             21
      40          11                 22
      42          11-1/2             23
      45          12-1/2             25
      48          13                 26
      50          14                 28
      55          15                 30
      60          17                 34

                  Silk Canvas.
  -------------------------------------------
  Canvas No.    Cross stitch.    Tent stitch.
  -------------------------------------------
                  14                 28

                French Canvas.
  -------------------------------------------
  Canvas No.    Cross stitch.    Tent stitch.
  -------------------------------------------
      10           6-1/2             13
      12           7-1/2             15
      14           8-1/2             17
      16           9-1/2             19
      18          10                 20
      19          11                 22
      20          12                 24
      22          13                 26
      24          14                 28
      26
      30          15                 30
      40          16                 32


MATERIALS FOR EMBROIDERY.

Silk, satin, velvet, and cloth.


MATERIALS FOR KNITTING, NETTING, AND CROCHET.

SILK.--This material is extensively used in the various productions of
which we are about to treat. The kinds usually employed in Knitting,
Netting, and Crochet, are purse silk, or twist; coarse and fine netting
silk; second sized purse twist; plain silk; China silk; extra fine, and
finest netting silk; second sized netting silk; coarse and fine
chenille, and crochet silk. These are so well known that it would be a
waste of time to describe them in detail. They are of a great variety of
colors, and of different qualities; some sorts being much more durable,
both in fabric and color, than others. No young lady should trust, at
first, to her own judgment in making the selection: but a little
attention will soon render her a proficient in the art of choosing the
most profitable materials. The China silks of the French surpass all
others, of that kind, with which we are acquainted, both as to the
nature of tints, and the brilliancy of the various dyes and shades.

WOOL.--This is of various colors and shades; German wool, single, and
double; Hamburgh wool, fleecy, of three, four, five, six, seven, and
eight threads; embroidery fleecy Shetland wool; English wool, coarse
yarn, for mitts.


BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF WOOLS.

German wool is the produce of the merino breed, in its highest state of
cultivation, and is the best sheep's wool we possess. The merino fleece
is brought to the greatest perfection in Saxony, and the adjacent
states. It is chiefly manufactured for the purposes of needle-work, &c.,
at Gotha; the dyeing of it is performed at Berlin, and in other parts of
Germany. The wools of Germany are, in fineness and softness, much,
superior to those of Spain. The wool is prepared in various sizes, and
for some kinds of work, may be split with great advantage. A large
quantity is imported into this country in a raw state, and is dyed and
manufactured here. Some of this is equal to the wools prepared in
Germany, as to quality; but the brilliancy of the color will not bear
comparison. This remark does not extend to the black German wool,
prepared in this country, and which is far superior to that prepared on
the continent. Much wool, of a very superior quality is annually
prepared for the market; and so great is its resemblance to a superior
article, that it requires much attention, and an experienced eye, to
detect the fraud. English wool, or what is often called embroidery wool,
is much harsher than that of Germany; yet it is of a very superior kind,
and much to be preferred for some kinds of work. The dye of several
colors of English lamb's wool is equal to that of the best dyes of
Germany; especially scarlet and some of the shades of blue, green, and
gold color, which for brilliancy and permanency, may justly claim
equality with the most finished productions of the continental states.

Worsted is another description of our native produce, and is extensively
used for a great variety of useful purposes, which are familiar to every
one. A great portion of the needle-work of the last century was done in
a fine kind of worsted, called CREWELS: and some specimens still remain,
which do great credit to the venerable grandames of the present
generation. Yarn is a coarse kind of worsted, much employed in making
garden nets, and for various other purposes. Fleecy (English) is
manufactured from the Leicestershire breed, and is much used in knitting
and netting: it is of two qualities; both varying in size, from an
eighth to a quarter of an inch in diameter. They are made up of threads,
varying from two to twelve, and are both equally good. They are applied
to crochet as well as to the other descriptions of work named. German
fleecy, thought but little used, is much superior to that of this
country. Hamburgh wool is an excellent article, but has not hitherto
been much in request. Great care is necessary, in selecting wool of good
quality: but let the young novice give to the subject her best
attention; and should she find herself sometimes deceived, still
persevere, remembering that "practice makes perfect."

COTTON, of various sizes, as numbered from one to six, or higher if
required. In the choice of this material, much care is needed, not only
in the selection of colors and shades, but also to ascertain if the
color has been stained with a permanent dye.

DOWN.--This is sometimes used for stuffing knitted cushions, muffs, &c.,
and is too well known to need any description here.

GOLD AND SILVER THREAD AND CORD.--The precious metals are now very
generally employed in the ornamental parts of all kinds of fancy work.
Gold and silver threads consists of a thread of silk, round which is
spun an exceedingly fine wire of the metal required. For gold, silver or
copper gilt wire is employed, as pure gold could not be so easily
wrought. These threads can be employed in almost any way which the taste
of the fair artist may induce her to devise. Besides the thread, gold
and silver cord is also in much demand, and looks extremely beautiful,
when employed with taste and judgment. This material is a twist, and is
composed of different quantities of threads, according to the thickness
required. Much care is required in working with it, or the beauty of the
material will be spoilt. It is much used in crochet, and without due
attention, the point of the needle is liable to catch the cord, and to
break the wire, which would entirely destroy the beauty of the
performance.

BEADS.--These beautiful fabrications of art, are composed of gold,
silver, polished steel, and glass. There is also a beautiful sort called
garnet beads, with gold points. All these can be procured at any of the
establishments for the sale of fancy articles, and are to be employed as
the judgment or fancy may direct. The gold beads are used in making all
kinds of knitting, netting, and crochet, and look well either by
themselves, or when in connection with those of the other materials
named. Glass beads, may be procured of any variety of color, and when in
combination with gold, silver, or steel, form a beautiful relief.


NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS FOR FANCY NEEDLEWORK.

Frames. Cross stitch needles. Sewing needles. Meshes, of various
sizes--at least three. Chenille Needles. Pair of long sharp-pointed
scissors. Cartridge Paper. Tissue Paper. A fine piercer. Seam piercer.
Camel's hair brushes.

Mixture of white lead and gum water, to draw patterns for dark
materials.

Mixture of stone blue and gum water, for light colors.

Black lead pencils.


NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS FOR KNITTING.

Needles of various sizes. The Nos. referred to are those of the knitting
needle gauge. Needles pointed at either end, for Turkish knitting.
Ivory, or wooden pins, for knitting a biroche. A knitting sheath, &c.,
to be fastened on the waist of the knitter, toward the right hand, for
the purpose of keeping the needle in a steady and proper position.


NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS FOR NETTING.

A pin or mesh, on which to form the loops. A needle called a netting
needle, formed into a kind of fork, with two prongs at each end. The
ends of the prongs meet and form a blunt point, not fastened like the
eye of a common needle, but left open, that the thread or twine may pass
between them, and be wound upon the needle. The prongs are brought to a
point, in order that the needle may pass through a small loop without
interruption. Twine to form foundations. A fine long darning needle for
bead work. Meshes of various, sizes from No. 1 to 11. Flat meshes, and
ivory meshes; also of various sizes. The gauge is the same as that for
knitting-needles.


NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS FOR CROCHET.

[Illustration]

Ivory crochet needles of various sizes. Steel crochet needles. Rug
needles and a pair of long sharp pointed scissors. These implements
should be disposed in a regular and orderly manner, as should also the
materials for working. Order and regularity are matters but too
frequently neglected in the gay and buoyant season of youth; and this
fault, which is the parent of so much annoyance in after life, is but
too generally overlooked by those whose duty it is to correct these
incipient seeds of future mischief. No pursuit should be entered into by
the young, without having some moral end in view, and this is especially
needful to be observed in cases, where at first sight, it might appear a
matter of indifference, whether the pursuit was one of utility, or of
mere relaxation. We earnestly entreat our young friends, never to
forget, that even our amusements may be rendered an acceptable sacrifice
to their heavenly Father, if they assiduously endeavor to make the
habits they form in their seasons of relaxation from graver studies,
conduce to the development of the higher faculties of their nature, and
subordinate preparations for a more exalted state of being, than any
which this transitory scene can of itself present to their
contemplation and pursuits. Dyer, speaking of Tapestry, has beautifully
said--

                        "This bright art
    Did zealous Europe learn of Pagan lands,
    While she assayed with rage of holy war
    To desolate their fields; but old the skill:
    Long were the Phrygian's pict'ring looms renown'd;
    Tyre also, wealthy seat of art, excell'd,
    And elder Sidon, in th' historic web."

But we would have our fair friends to place before them a high and a
definite object. Let them seek, like the excellent Miss Linwood--

    "To raise at once our reverence and delight,
    To elevate the mind and charm the sight,
    To pour religion through the attentive eye,
    And waft the soul on wings of extacy;
    Bid mimic art with nature's self to vie,
    And raise the spirit to its native sky."




CHAPTER II.

PLAIN NEEDLEWORK.


EXPLANATION OF STITCHES.

Before commencing those directions, which we deem it necessary to
place before our readers, in reference to this important portion
of the work-table manual, we wish to say a word or two to our fair
countrywomen, on the importance of a general and somewhat extensive
acquaintance with those arts, on which so much of the comfort of
individual and domestic life depends. Economy of time, labor, and
expenses, is an essential requisite in every family; and will ever claim
a due share of attention, from her who is desirous of fulfilling with
credit to herself and advantage to others, the allotted duties of her
appointed station. To those, who are at the head of the majority of
families, an extensive knowledge of the various departments of plain
needlework is indispensable. The means placed at their disposal are
limited; in many instances, extremely so: and to make the most of these
means, generally provided by the continual care and unremitting
attention of the father and the husband, is a sacred duty, which cannot
be violated without the entailment of consequences which every well
regulated mind must be anxious to avoid.

The following are the principal stitches used in plain needlework.

SEWING AND FELLING.--If you have selvages, join them together and sew
them firmly. If you have raw edges, turn down one of the edges once, and
the other double the breadth, and then turn half of it back again. This
is for the fell. The two pieces are pinned face to face, and seamed
together; the stitches being in a slanting direction, and just deep
enough to hold the separate pieces firmly together. Then flatten the
seam with the thumb, turn the work over and fell it the same as hemming.
The thread is fastened by being worked between the pieces and sewn over.

HEMMINGS.--Turn down the raw edge as evenly as possible. Flatten, and be
careful, especially in turning down the corners. Hem from right to left;
bring the point of the needle from the chest toward the right hand.
Fasten the thread without a knot, and when you finish, sew several
stitches close together, and cut off the thread.

GERMAN HEMMING.--Turn down both the raw edges once, taking care so to do
it, as that both turns may be toward your person; you then lay one below
the other, so as that the smooth edge of the nearest does not touch the
other, but lies just beneath it. The lower one is then to be hemmed or
felled to the piece against which you have laid it, still holding it
before you. You are next to open your sleeve, or whatever else you have
been employed upon; and laying the upper fold over the lower, fell it
down, and the work is done.

MANTUAMAKER'S HEM.--You lay the raw edge of one of your pieces a little
below the other; the upper edge is then turned over the other twice, and
felled down as strong as possible.

RUNNING.--Take three threads, leave three, and in order that the work
may be kept as firm as possible, back-stitch occasionally. If you sew
selvages, they must be joined evenly together; but if raw edges, one
must be turned down once, and the other laid upon it, but a few threads
from the top. It is, in this case, to be felled afterwards.

STITCHING.--The work must be even as possible. Turn down a piece to
stitch to, draw a thread to stitch upon, twelve or fourteen threads from
the edge. Being thus prepared, you take two threads back, and so bring,
the needle out, from under two before. Proceed in this manner, to the
end of the row; and in joining a fresh piece of thread, take care to
pass the needle between the edges and bring it out where the last stitch
was finished.

GATHERING.--You begin by taking the article to be gathered, and dividing
it into halves, and then into quarters, putting on pins, to make the
divisions. The piece, to which you are intending to gather it, must be
gathered about twelve threads from the top, taking three threads on the
needle, and leaving four; and so preceding, alternately, until one
quarter is gathered. Fasten the thread, by twisting it round a pin;
stroke the gathers, so that they lie evenly and neatly, with a strong
needle or pin. You then proceed as before, until all the gathers are
gathered. Then take out the pins, and regulate the gathers of each
quarter, so as to correspond with those of the piece to which it is to
be sewed. The gathers are then to be fastened on, one at a time; and the
stitches must be in a slanting direction. The part to be gathered must
be cut quite even before commencing, or else it will be impossible to
make the gathering look well.

DOUBLE GATHERING, OR PUFFING.--This is sometimes employed in setting on
frills; and when executed properly has a pretty effect. You first gather
the top, in the usual way; then, having stroked down the gathers, you
gather again under the first gathering, and of such a depth as you wish
the puffing to be. You then sew on the first gathering to the gown,
frock, &c. you design to trim, at a distance, corresponding with the
width of the puffing: and the second gathering sewed to the edge, so as
to form a full hem. You may make a double hem, if you please, by
gathering three times instead of only twice; and one of the hems may be
straight, while the other is drawn to one side a little. This requires
much exactness, in the execution; but if properly done, it gives a
pleasing variety to the work.

WHIPPING.--You cut the edge smooth, and divide into halves and quarters,
as for gathering. You then roll the muslin or other material very
lightly upon the finger, making use of the left thumb for that purpose.
The needle must go in on the outside, and be brought through, on the
inside. The whipping-cotton should be as strong and even as possible. In
order that the stitches may draw with ease, they must be taken with
great care. The roll of the whip should be about ten threads.

[Illustration]

BUTTON-HOLE STITCH.--These should be cut by a thread, and their length
should be that of the diameter of the button. In working, the
button-hole must lie lengthways upon the forefinger; and you begin at
the side which is opposite to the thumb, and the furthest from the point
of the finger on which it is laid. The needle must go in on the wrong
side, and be brought out on the right, five threads down. To make the
stitch, the needle is passed through the loop before it is drawn close.
In turning the corners, be careful not to do it too near; and in order
that a proper thickness may be obtained, it is necessary that the needle
should go in between every two threads. Making button-holes, requires
great care and attention.

[Illustration]

FANCY BUTTON-HOLE STITCH.--This resembles a very wide button-hole
stitch, and is very neat for the fronts of bodies, where it has a very
pretty appearance; likewise for the bands and the shoulder bits, and
above the broad hems and tucks of frocks.

[Illustration]

CHAIN STITCH.--In making this stitch, you are to employ union cord,
bobbin, or braid, whichever you think most suitable. Make a knot at the
end, and draw it through to the right side. While you put in the needle,
let the end hang loose, and bring it out below, so as to incline a
little towards the left hand. Pass your needle over the cord, as you
draw it out, and this will form a loop. In drawing out the mesh, you
must be careful not to draw the stitch too tight, as that would destroy
the effect. You proceed in the same manner to form the next, and each
succeeding loop; taking care to put the needle in a little higher, and
rather more to the right than in the preceding stitch, so that each loop
begins within the lower part of the one going before it, and you thus
produce the resemblance of a chain.

[Illustration]

FANCY CHAIN STITCH.--The only difference between this and the common
chain stitch, is that very little of the cord is taken up on the needle
at a time, and the stitches are far from each other. Its appearance will
be varied, according as you put in the needle, to slant little or much.
If you should work it perfectly horizontal, it is the same as
button-hole stitch.

[Illustration]

HERRING-BONING.--This is generally employed in articles composed of
flannel, or other thick material. The edge is to be cut even, and turned
down once. You work from left to right, thus: Put your needle into the
material, and take a stitch of two or three threads, as close as
possible, under the raw edge, and bring the needle half way up that part
which is turned down, and four or five threads toward the right hand;
make another stitch, and bring down the needle; thus proceed until the
work is finished. This stitch is something like the back-bone of a fish,
and is sometimes used as an ornament for children's robes, and at the
top of hems. It looks both neat and elegant, when carefully executed.

[Illustration]

FANCY HERRING-BONING.--This is the same as common herring-bone, only it
is done in a perpendicular manner, instead of being worked horizontally
from left to right; and the thread is brought round behind the needle,
so as to finish the work in a more elegant manner. It has an exceeding
neat and pleasing look, when it is well executed, and is considered as
highly ornamental, in appropriate situations.

[Illustration]

ANGULAR STITCH.--This stitch resembles button-hole stitch, only it is
carried from right to left to form the pattern. It is a neat ornament
for cuffs, skirts and capes, and children's pelisses. As much of its
beauty depends on its regularity, care should be taken to make the
patterns very even and straight, and of an equal width; without due
attention to this, the work will be spoiled.

[Illustration]

DOUBLE HERRING-BONING.--This pattern is a kind of double herring-bone,
on each side; it is too intricate to describe minutely. The engraving
will give a better idea of this stitch than any description we could
give. Great care being required to keep the pattern even, it is
advisable to run a tacking thread down the middle of it, to serve as a
guide.

[Illustration]

HORSE-SHOE STITCH.--This is done with thick, loosely-twisted cotton, or
bobbin, and is worked from left to right, as shown in the accompanying
engraving. It has a very neat and pretty appearance, when worked near
the edge of hems, robings, &c.

[Illustration]

FANCY BOBBIN EDGING.--This is formed by a succession of loops made in
the following manner: Make a knot at the end, and put the needle through
to the right side, just below the hem. Bring the bobbin over the hem,
and, putting the needle in at the wrong side, bring it through to the
right. Draw the loop to the size you desire, pass the bobbin through it,
and commence the next stitch, proceeding as before.

CHAIN STITCH, ON GATHERS.--This looks well, if worked in colored
worsted, or in cord. Two gathers are taken up for each stitch, taking
care always to take one of the previous stitches and one new gather on
the needle at the same time.

[Illustration]

CORAL PATTERN.--This requires great accuracy in the working, and it is
advisable for the inexperienced to run lines, in long stitches, to fix
the middle and outsides of the pattern. It may be best understood by the
engraving, merely observing that the stitch is begun on the left hand,
and continued alternately from left to right, always pointing the needle
toward the centre. It is very suitable for the waist-bands of children's
frocks, the tops of broad hems, &c.

[Illustration]

SERPENTINE STITCH.--This is exceedingly pretty, and is much employed for
children's dresses. It is worked with the hand, being sewn on to the
material when made. Take the cord, knot it so as to form a loop at the
end; then pass the other end through the loop, toward the front, to form
another loop to the right hand; continue passing the bobbin through the
loop on one side, then through the loop on the other, directing the cord
so as to pass from the side of the work invariably towards the inner, or
that part next the work.

[Illustration]

BIASSING.--In this operation, the first part of the stitch is the same
as gathering. You then stitch down; and upon the right side of the
gather, you lay a thread a good deal thicker than the one you used for
gathering thread. Over this thread you sew, taking care to take hold
also of the gathering thread. The needle is always to be pointed toward
your chest. You may work two or three rows in this way, on the sleeves
and shoulders of dresses, &c., which has a handsome effect. You must
take great care to bring the needle out between each one of the gathers.

[Illustration]

HONEY COMBING.--The material may be velvet, silk, &c.; and the mode of
working is as follows: The piece you intend honey-combing, must be
creased in regular folds, taking care that they are as even as possible.
Then make the folds lie closely together, by tacking them with a strong
thread, and in long stitches. You then take silk of the right color;
stitch together at equal and proper distances the two first folds, and
proceed, with each succeeding two, in the same manner, only taking the
stitches in the intermediate spaces. Thus the stitches of each alternate
row will correspond together. Draw out the thread, when the work is
finished, and on pulling it open, it will form diamonds on the right
side. This work is proper for the inside of work-boxes, and is sometimes
employed to ornament the tops of beds. It looks well, if carefully
executed.

A perfect acquaintance with these various stitches, will enable the
practical needlewoman to pursue her occupation with ease and pleasure.




CHAPTER III.

PLAIN NEEDLEWORK.


INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF BODY LINEN.

In order to secure economy of time, labor, and expense, and also to do
everything neatly and in order, the lady who is intending to engage in
the domestic employment of preparing linen necessary for personal and
family use, should be careful to have all her materials ready, and
disposed in the most systematic manner possible, before commencing work.
The materials employed in the construction of articles, which come under
the denomination of plain needlework, are so various, that a mere list
of them would occupy more than half our space; and they are so well
known, that no necessity exists for naming them in detail. We shall
therefore proceed, at once, to give plain directions, by which any lady
may soon become expert in this necessary department of household uses,
merely observing, that a neat work-box, well supplied with all the
implements required--including knife, scissors (of at least three
sizes,) needles and pins in sufficient variety, bodkins, thimbles,
thread and cotton, bobbins, marking silks, black lead pencils, india
rubber, &c., should be provided, and be furnished with a lock and key,
to prevent the contents being thrown into confusion by children,
servants, or unauthorized intruders.

The lady being thus provided, and having her materials, implements,
&c., placed in order upon her work-table, (to the edge of which it is an
advantage to have a pincushion affixed, by means of a screw,) may
commence her work, and proceed with pleasure to herself, and without
annoyance to any visitor, who may favor her with a call. We would
recommend, wherever practicable, that the work-table should be made of
cedar, and that the windows of the working parlor should open into a
garden, well supplied with odoriferous flowers and plants, the perfume
of which will materially cheer the spirits of those especially whose
circumstances compel them to devote the greatest portion of their time
to sedentary occupations. If these advantages cannot be obtained, at
least the room should be well ventilated, and furnished with a few
cheerful plants, and a well filled scent-jar. The beneficent Creator
intended all His children, in whatever station of life they might be
placed, to share in the common bounties of His providence; and when she,
who not for pleasure, but to obtain the means of subsistence, is
compelled to seclude herself, for days or weeks together, from the
cheering influence of exercise in the open air, it becomes both her
duty, and that of those for whom she labors, to secure as much of these
advantages, or of the best substitutes for them, as the circumstances of
the case will admit.

We now proceed to lay down what we hope will be found clear though
concise rules, for the preparation of various articles of dress and
attire.

APRONS.--These are made of a variety of materials, and are applied to
various uses. The aprons used for common purposes, are made of white,
blue, brown, checked, and sometimes of black linen; nankeen, stuff, and
print, are also employed. The width is generally one breadth of the
material, and the length is regulated by the height of the wearer. Dress
aprons are, of course, made of finer materials--cambric, muslin, silk,
satin, lace, clear and other kinds of muslin, &c., and are generally two
breadths in width, one of which is cut in two, so as to throw a seam on
each side, and leave an entire breadth for the middle. Aprons of all
kinds are straight, and either plaited or gathered on to the band or
stock at the top. Those with only one breadth, are hemmed at the bottom
with a broad hem; those with two breadths, must be hemmed at the sides
likewise. The band should be from half a nail to a nail broad; its
length is to be determined by the waist of the wearer. It should be
fastened at the back, with hooks and eyelet holes. To some aprons,
pockets are attached, which are either sewed on in front, or at the
back, and a slit made in the apron to correspond with them. The slit, or
opening of the pocket is to be hemmed neatly, or braided, as may be most
desirable. In some kinds of aprons, bibs are introduced, which are
useful to cover the upper part of the dress. Their size must be
determined by the taste of the person who is to wear them.

DRESS APRONS.--Take two breadths of any material you choose, dividing
one of them in the middle. Hem all round, with a broad hem,
three-fourths of a nail deep. The band is to be one and a-half nails
deep in the middle, into which a piece of whalebone is to be inserted,
on each side of which work a row or two in chain stitch. The band is
scolloped out from the centre on its lower side, five and a-half nails,
leaving the extremities of the band one nail broad. To the scolloped
portion, the apron is to be fulled on, so as to sit as neat as possible;
leaving the space beneath the whalebone plain. Confine the folds, by
working two rows of chain stitch, just below the curved lines of the
band, leaving half an inch between each row. The lower edge of the band
is ornamented with a small piping, but is left plain at the top.

VANDYKE APRON.--This may be made either of silk or muslin. The edge of
the apron is to be turned down, once all round, on the right side, to
the depth of three-quarters of a nail; and the vandykes are formed by
running from the edge of the apron to near the rough edge of the
material, which is afterward to be turned in. When the vandykes are
completed, they are to be turned inside out, and made as smooth as
possible. A braid, or a row of tent stitch, on the right side, over the
stitches, is a pretty finish. In setting on the band, the plaits must be
placed opposite each other, so as to meet in the middle. You may line
the band with buckram, or stiff muslin, and ornament it with piping if
you please.

APRON FOR A YOUNG PERSON.--Clear muslin is the best material. Hem round
with a hem, three-fourths of a nail deep; lay all round, within the hem,
a shawl bordering, not quite so broad as the hem. Of course, the latter
must be taken off before washing.

A MORNING APRON.--This may be made like the last, but instead of the
shawl bordering, surround the outer edge of the hem by a deep crimped
frill, a nail in breadth. The material most in use, is jacconet or
cambric muslin: the frill, of lawn or cambric, which you please.

GIRL'S APRON.--Use any material that is deemed advisable. The bib is to
be made to fit the wearer, in front, between the shoulders, and sloping
to the waist. The apron is to be gathered, or plaited to the band; and
the shoulder straps may be of the same material, or of ribbon. The bib,
either plain or ornamented, with tucks or folds, as may be deemed most
suitable.

BATHING GOWN.--The materials employed are various, flannels, stuff, or
calamanca, are the most preferable, giving free ingress to the water.
The length must be determined by the height of the wearer, and the
width at the bottom should be about fifteen nails. It should be folded
as you would a pinafore, and to be sloped three and three-quarters nails
for the shoulder. The slits for the arm-holes must be three nails and
three-quarters long, and the sleeves are to be set in plain: the length
of the latter is not material. It is useful to have a slit of three
inches, in front of each. The gown is to have a broad hem at the bottom,
and to be gathered into a band at the top, which is to be drawn tight
with strings; the sleeves are to be hemmed and sewn round the arm or
wrist, in a similar manner.

BUSTLES.--These are worn, to make the waist of the gown sit neat upon
the person. They are made the width of the material, and eight nails
deep. The piece is to be so doubled as to make two flounces; one four
nails and a half and the other three and a-half deep. A case, to admit
of tapes, is to be made one nail from the top, and the bottom of each
flounce is to have a thick cord hemmed into it. When worn, the article
is turned inside out. The materials are strong jean, or calico.

CAPS.--These are made of a great variety of patterns, and the materials
are as various as the purposes to which the article is applied. Muslins
of various kinds, lawn, net, lace, and calico, are all in request; and
the borders are extremely various. Muslin, net, or lace, being those
most in common use. The shapes are so multifarious, as to preclude us
from giving any specific directions. Every lady must choose her own
pattern, as best suits the purpose she has in view. The patterns should
be cut in paper, and considerable care is requisite, in cutting out, not
to waste the material. A little careful practice will soon make this
department familiar to the expert votaress of the needle.

CHILD'S COLLAR.--This is made of double Irish linen, and is stitched
round and made to fall over the dress. Frills are generally attached to
them, and give them a pretty finish. They are proper for children, of
eight or nine years of age.

CRAVATS.--These are of fine muslin, and are made in the shape of a half
handkerchief. They are hemmed with a narrow hem, and should be cut from
muslin, eighteen nails square.

CLOAKS.--These useful and necessary articles of dress are generally made
up by a dress-maker; it is unnecessary therefore to give particular
directions concerning them. The materials are silks and stuffs, of
almost every variety, including satin, merino cloth, real and imitation
shawling plaids, and Orleans. The latter is now very generally used.
Travelling cloaks are made of a stronger material, and are trimmed in a
much plainer style than those used in walking dresses. Satin cloaks look
well with velvet collars, and are also frequently trimmed with the same
material. Merino, and also silk cloaks, are often trimmed with fur, or
velvet, and lined with the same. Sometimes they are made perfectly
plain. The lining of a silk or satin cloak, should be of the same color,
or else a well-chosen contrast; and care should be taken, that the color
should be one that is not liable to fade, or to receive damage. An
attention to these general remarks, will be found of much advantage to
the lady who, in making her purchase is desirous of combining elegance
of appearance with durability of wear, and economy of price.

FRILLS.--These are used as ornaments, or a finish to various articles of
dress. The materials are cambric muslin, lace, net, &c., and the manner
in which they are made is various. Sometimes they are set on quite
plain, that is, hemmed round and plaited up into neat folds, to the
width required. At other times, frills are fitted to a band, and the
edge that is to be hemmed, is stiffened by rolling it over a bobbin; it
is put on as an ornament to a gown, and is tied with strings at the end.
Crimped frills are worn by young children, and look extremely neat. They
are made of lawn or cambric, and sewed on to a band. The other edge is
hemmed, and the frill is double the size round the neck. The band should
be half a nail in depth, and the frill is to be crimped as evenly as
possible.

GENTLEMEN'S BELTS.--These are worn by persons who have much and violent
exercise, and are extremely useful. They are made of strong jean or
other material, and sometimes of leather, and may either be made
straight, or a little slant, or peaked. Runners of cotton are inserted,
to make them more strong, and they must be furnished with long straps of
webbing at the ends, sewed on with leather over them. The straps are
about three inches in depth.

GENTLEMEN'S COLLARS.--These are very generally worn, and are shaped in a
variety of ways. They are made double, and ornamented with a single or
double row of back stitch. They are made to button round the neck, or
are set on to a band for that purpose. It is best to cut the pattern in
paper, and when a good fit is obtained, cut the cloth by the paper
model.

GENTLEMEN'S FRONTS.--The material is fine lawn or cambric. Sometimes the
sides are composed of the former, and the middle of the latter. A false
hem is made down the middle, furnished with buttons, as if to open; the
neck is hollowed to the depth of a nail, and is plaited or gathered into
a stock or band. In order that it may sit neat upon the bosom, two neck
gussets are introduced.

LADIES' DRAWERS.--Choose any proper material, and form the article by
making two legs, set on to a band to fasten round the waist. Set on a
plain or worked frill at the bottom. When setting the legs on to the
band, place them so as to overlap each other. The band is eleven nails
long, and three deep.

LADIES' FLANNEL WAISTCOAT.--This is, in many cases, an indispensable
article of female attire. For an ordinary size, you must take a piece of
flannel twelve nails wide, and seven deep, folding it exactly in the
middle. At two nails from the front, which is doubled, the arm holes
must be cut, leaving two nails for half of the back. The front is to be
slightly hollowed. At the bottom, cut a slit of three nails, immediately
under the arm holes; insert a gore three nails broad, and the same in
length, and terminating in a point. Bosom-gores are also to be
introduced of a similar shape, and just half the size. They are to be
put in just one nail from the shoulder-strap. In making the waistcoat,
it is to be herring-boned all round, as are also all the gores and
slits. A broad tape, one nail in width, is laid down each side of the
front, in which the button holes are made, and buttons set on; the
shoulder-straps are of tape, and the waistcoat fastens in front.

LADIES' NIGHT JACKETS.--The materials are various, including lawn,
linen, and calico. The jackets are made of two breadths, and as it is
desirable not to have a seam in the shoulder, the two breadths should be
cut in one length, and carefully doubled in the middle. The neck is to
be slit open, leaving three nails on each side for the shoulders; and a
slit is also to be made in front, so as to allow the garment to pass
freely over the head of the wearer; the sides are then to be seamed up,
leaving proper slits for the arm holes; and the neck and bosom are to be
hemmed as neatly as possible. The sleeves are to be made the required
length, and gathered into a band at the wrist, after being felled into
the arm holes mentioned above. A neat frill round the neck, bosom, and
wrists, finishes the whole.

NIGHT GOWNS.--These must be made of a size suitable for the wearer. The
following are directions for three different sizes. The length of the
gown on the skirts is one yard and a half for the first size, one yard
and six nails for the second, and one yard and three nails for the
third; the width of the material is eighteen, sixteen, and fourteen
nails, respectively; and the garment is to have one yard and a half
breadth in width. They are to be crossed so as to be at the bottom
twenty-one, eighteen, and sixteen, nails: and at the top, fifteen,
fourteen, and twelve nails, as the sizes may require. The length of the
sleeves is nine, eight, and seven nails, and the width half a breadth;
they are to be furnished with gussets, three, two, and two nails square,
and with wristbands of the proper width, and of any depth that is deemed
desirable.

A binder of one nail and a half is put down the selvage of each sleeve,
which strengthens it much. The gown is furnished with a collar about
three nails deep, and of the length required by the wearer; and, in
order that it may fit properly, neck gussets of two, one, and one nail
square, are to be introduced. A slit of about six nails is made in
front, which is hemmed round, and the space left for the shoulders is
three, two and a-half and two nails, respectively. The whole is finished
with a neat frill round the collar and wristbands. If economy is an
object, cut three gowns together. This will prevent much waste of
material; an object, by every head of a family, to be constantly kept in
view.

NECK AND POCKET HANDKERCHIEFS.--These are made of a great variety of
materials, as silk, muslin, cambric, lawn, and net. The neck
handkerchiefs are generally a half square, and are hemmed all round. It
is a good plan to turn up the extreme corners, as it makes it more
strong and durable. A tape is set on, which comes 'round the waist, and
ties in front. Sometimes a broad muslin hem is put on the two straight
sides, which looks extremely well. Some ladies work a border to their
neck handkerchief, which gives to those made of net the appearance of
lace. Pocket handkerchiefs are neatly hemmed, and sometimes have a
worked border. Those used by gentlemen are of a larger size than those
of ladies.

PETTICOATS (FLANNEL).--These are not only useful, but indispensable
articles of dress. Fine flannel is the best, as it is most durable, and
keeps its color best in washing. The length of the petticoat is
regulated by the height of the person for whom it is intended; and the
width ranges from three breadths to one and a-half. The bottom is hemmed
with a broad hem; and the top is gathered, and set on to a strong band
of calico, or jean, leaving the front nearly plain. Sometimes a button
hole is made, about two nails from the ends of the band, to which
strings of tape are attached; these are passed through the opposite
holes, and the parts thus brought over each other form a kind of bustle,
which makes the garment sit more neatly to the figure. A slit of about
four nails is left on the back which is hemmed round, or bound with a
strong binding.

PETTICOATS are worn under the dress for the sake of warmth, and also to
make the gown hang more gracefully upon the person. They should have
three or three and a-half breadths of the material in the width, and the
bottom is made with a broad hem three nails deep, or with tucks or
worked muslin. The latter is extremely neat. They are to be set on to a
strong band, or stock, and are to have a slit left at the back about
four nails in length. The skirt may be gathered full all round, or only
at the back and front, leaving the sides plain; sometimes all the
fulness is thrown to the back. Having shoulder-straps to keep up the
petticoat, is a great advantage; but they are unnecessary if a waist,
or body with or without sleeves, be set on the band. In this case the
body should be made to fit as tight to the person as possible. The band
is generally about one nail in breadth. The materials proper for
petticoats are dimity, calico, cambric, jacconet muslin, calamanca,
stuff, &c. What are called middle, or under petticoats, are made in the
same manner. Those ladies who pursue the laudable practice of nursing
their own infants, and who wear petticoats with bodies to them, have
them open in front.

PINAFORE.--This is a useful article of dress, especially in large
families. Holland is the best material. For an open one, one breadth is
sufficient. Double the pinafore into four, and cut the arm holes to the
required depth in the two side folds, so that half will form the front.
The neck is to be hollowed out about a quarter of a nail in the middle,
and the pinafore is to be set on to the neck band, which fastens by a
button behind. Sleeve lappets are attached to the arm holes, being
gathered near the edge, and set on before the arm hole is hemmed, so
that when the edge is turned down no stitches will appear. The lappet is
a second time to be gathered at the edge, and sewed down as fast as
possible. Then hem the other edge, and conceal the stitches with silk
braid that will wash. A small gusset put into the bottom of the slits is
an advantage, as it makes it stronger. They are to be fastened round the
waist with a band, or with a strap and buckle. The latter is most to be
preferred. For a close pinafore, two breadths of Holland, or other
material, will be required. It is seamed up at the sides, leaving slits
for the arm holes, and has a collar and sleeves; as also a band to go
round the middle of the wearer. Neck gussets may be introduced, but the
much neater way is, to double the pinafore into four, and let in a piece
at each shoulder, about a nail wide, and two nails in length, gathering
each quarter from the arm holes, into the pieces so let in, and felling
similar pieces on the inside of the shoulder. The two middle quarters
are to be gathered into half the collar, and the back in the same
manner. The sleeves are made with gussets like a shirt, and are gathered
into the arm holes. A slit is made at the hands, and the bottom is
gathered into a wristband about an inch in breadth.

POCKETS.--These are made of any kind of material you please. You take a
piece of double, and cut it to the shape required. Stitch the two pieces
neatly round, a little distance from the edge. Then turn it, and let the
seam be well flattened, and back stitch with white silk a quarter of an
inch from the edge; cut a slit down about four nails, which is to be
either hemmed, or have a tape laid round it on the inside. Set on the
strings, and the pocket is complete. Some ladies have pockets attached
to the petticoat. In that case, it is only a square of calico, about ten
nails long, and eight broad, set on to the inside of the petticoat, as
plain as possible.

A RIBBON SCARF.--This is made of broad satin ribbon, and must not be
less than two nails and a half wide: its length is two yards and three
quarters. The ribbon is to be doubled on the wrong side, and run in a
slanting direction so as to cause it to fall gracefully on the neck. The
ends are to be embroidered and ornamented with braid, or left plain, as
may suit the fancy. The scarf is to be surrounded by an edging of swan's
down. This is an elegant article of female attire.

PLAIN SCARF.--This is generally made of net, the whole breadth, and two
yards and a half long. It is hemmed all round with a broad hem so as to
admit a ribbon to be run in, which gives it a neat and finished
appearance.

AN INDIAN SCARF.--This is an elegant article of dress and can be easily
made. The material is a rich Cashmere, and three colors are required:
that is, black, scarlet, and a mazarine blue. You must have the scarf
four nails and a half in width, and one yard and six nails in length:
this must be black. Then you must have of the other two colors, pieces
seven nails long, and the same width as the black, and you are, after
finding the exact middle of the black stripe, to slope off one nail and
a half toward each side, and then slope one end of the blue and of the
scarlet piece, so as to make them accord precisely with the ends of the
black previously prepared. You are to cut one nail and a half from the
middle to the ends. You are then to split the blue and the scarlet
stripes down the middle, and join half of the one to the half of the
other, as accurately, as possible. The pieces thus joined together are
to be sewed to the black stripe, and the utmost care must be taken to
make the points unite properly. You are to sew the pieces fast together,
and herring-bone them all round on the right side. You finish by laying
a neat silk gimp all round and over all the joinings. It should be of a
clear, bright color. The ends are to be fringed with scarlet and blue,
to correspond with the two half stripes. This is suitable for a walking
dress, or an evening party.

A DRESS SHAWL.--Take a half square of one yard and twelve nails of satin
velvet or plush, which you please, and line it with sarcenet either
white, or colored; trim the two straight edges with a hem of either silk
or satin, from one to one nail and a half in breadth, and cut crossway.
Or you may trim it with fur, lace, or fringe.

CASHMERE SHAWL.--You will require for the centre a piece of colored
Cashmere, one yard six nails square, which is to be hemmed round with a
narrow hem. You must then take four stripes all of Cashmere, or of a
shawl bordering to harmonize or contrast well with the centre, which
must be hemmed on both sides, and then sewed on, so as that the stitches
may appear as little as possible. The border should be three nails
broad, and of course joined point to point at the corners; and it must
be so set on as that the two corners shall fall properly over each
other. The shawl is finished by a fringe set on all round, and sometimes
by a colored gimp laid on over the joinings.

A LADY'S WALKING SHAWL.--This may be made of cloth, merino, or silk; and
either a whole, or half square, at pleasure. The dimensions are one yard
and twelve nails, and the lining is of silk. In order that when the
shawl is doubled the hems of both folds may appear at the same time,
care must be taken, after laying on the border on two successive sides,
to turn the shawl, and then lay on the remainder of the border. The
trimmings for these kind of shawls are of great variety.

A TRAVELLING SHAWL.--This is easily made, and is very warm and
convenient. Take a square of wadding, and double it cornerways; cover it
with muslin, or silk, and trim it as you please.

MOURNING SHAWLS.--These may be made either of half a square of black
silk, entirely covered with crape, which is proper for deep mourning, or
you may take half a square of rich and rather dull black silk, and
border it with a hem of crape, two nails deep, laid on upon the two
straight sides of the shawl.

SHIFTS.--These are generally made of fine Irish, or calico. They are
made either with gores, or crossed. The latter is the neatest method.
Two breadths are sufficient for a full sized shift, and gores are cut
off a given width at the bottom, and extending to a point, in order to
widen the garment. In crossing a shift, you first sew the long seams;
then you double it in a slanting direction, so as to mark off at the
top and bottom ten nails at opposite corners; this done, you join the
narrow ends together, and sew the cross seams, leaving a sufficient slit
for the arm holes. There are various methods of cutting the back and
bosom. Some cut out a scollop both before and behind; but in this case,
the back is hollowed out one third less than the front. Some ladies
hollow out the back, but form the bosom with a flap, which may be cut
either straight, or in a slanting direction from the shoulders. Another
method of forming the bosom is by cutting the shoulder-straps separate
from the shift, and making the top quite straight; bosom gores are then
let in, in front; the top is hemmed both before and behind, and a frill
gives a neat finish to the whole. The sleeves may be either set in plain
or full, as suits the taste of the wearer. Sometimes the sleeve and
gusset are all in one piece; at other times they are separate. In all
cases, great care should be taken in cutting out, not to waste the
material. For this purpose it is always advisable to cut out several at
one time. Shifts for young children of from five to ten years of age,
are generally made with flaps both before and behind. This is decidedly
the neatest shape for them. The bottom, in all cases, should be hemmed
with a broad hem.

SHIRTS.--These are generally made of linen; but calico is also made use
of. The degree of fineness must be determined by the occupation and
station of the wearer. A long piece of linen will, if cut with care,
make several shirts of an ordinary man's size. In cutting, you must take
a shirt of the required dimensions, as a pattern; and, by it, measure
the length of several bodies, not cutting any but the last. Then cut off
the other bodies; and from the remainder, cut off the sleeves, binders,
gussets, &c., measuring by the pattern. Bosom-pieces, falls, collars,
&c., must be fitted, and cut by a paper or other pattern, which suits
the person for whom the articles are intended.

In making up, the bodies should be doubled, so as to leave the front
flap one nail shorter than that behind. Then, marking off the spaces for
the length of the flaps and arm holes, sew up the seams. The bosom-slit
is five nails, and three nails is the space left for the shoulders. The
space for the neck will be nine nails. One breadth of the cloth makes
the sleeves, and the length is from nine to ten nails. The collar, and
the wristbands, are made to fit the neck and wrists, and the breadths
are so various, that no general rule can be given. You make the binders,
or linings, about twelve nails in length, and three in breadth; and the
sleeve gussets are three; the neck gusset, two; the flap gussets, one;
and the bosom gusset, half a nail square. The work, or stitches,
introduced into the collar, wristbands, &c., are to be regulated
according to the taste of the maker, or the wearer.

Gentlemen's night shirts are made in a similar manner, only they are
larger. The cloth recommended to be used, is that kind of linen which is
called shirting-width. Where a smaller size is required, a long strip
will cut off from the width, which will be found useful for binders,
wristbands, &c.

VEILS.--These are made of net, gauze, or lace, and are plain or worked,
as suits the taste of the wearer. White veils are generally of lace:
mourning ones are made of black crape. The jet-black is to be preferred,
as it wears much better than the kind termed blue-black. Colored veils
look well with a satin ribbon of the same color, about a nail deep, put
on as a hem all round. For white ones, a ribbon of a light color is
preferable, as it makes a slight contrast. A crape, or gauze veil, is
hemmed round; that at the bottom being something broader than the rest.
All veils have strings run in at the top, and riding ones are
frequently furnished with a ribbon at the bottom, which enables the
wearer to obtain the advantage of a double one, by tying the second
string round her bonnet, where she is desirous to screen her eyes from
the sun and dust, and at the same time to enjoy the advantage of a cool
and refreshing breeze. Demi-veils are short veils, fulled all round the
bonnet, but most at the ears, which makes them fall more gracefully. It
is advisable to take them up a little at the ears, so as not to leave
them the full depth: without this precaution, they are liable to appear
unsightly and slovenly.




CHAPTER IV.

PLAIN NEEDLEWORK.


INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF HOUSE LINEN.

BED-ROOM LINEN.--This includes quilts, blankets, sheets, pillow covers,
towels, table covers, and pincushion covers.

QUILTS.--These are of various sizes and qualities, in accordance with
the purposes to which they are to be applied. They are generally made of
the outside material and the lining, (wadding or flannel being laid
between,) and stitched in diamonds or other devices. The stitches must
pass through the whole, and the edges of the quilt are to be secured by
a binding proper for the purpose. They are best done in a frame.

BLANKETS.--These are bought ready prepared for use. It is sometimes
advisable to work over the edges at the end, which should be done with
scarlet worsted in a very wide kind of button-hole stitch.

SHEETS.--These are made of fine linen, coarse linen, and calico. Linen
sheets are in general to be preferred. The seam up the middle must be
sewed as neat as possible, and the ends may either be hemmed or seamed:
the latter is the preferable method. Sheets, and all bed-room linen,
should be marked and numbered. To add the date of the year is also an
advantage.

PILLOW COVERS.--These are made of fine or coarse linen, and sometimes
of calico. The material should be of such a width as to correspond with
the length of the pillow. One yard and three nails, doubled and seamed
up, is the proper size. One end is seamed up, and the other hemmed with
a broad hem, and furnished with strings or buttons, as is deemed most
convenient. We think the preferable way of making pillow covers is to
procure a material of a sufficient width when doubled, to admit the
pillow. The selvages are then sewn together, and the ends seamed and
hemmed, as before directed. Bolster covers are made in nearly the same
manner, only a round patch is let into one end, and a tape slot is run
into the other.

TOWELS.--Towels are made of a diaper or huckaback, of a quality adapted
to the uses to which they are applicable. They should be one yard long,
and about ten or twelve nails wide. The best are bought single, and are
fringed at the ends. Others are neatly hemmed, and sometimes have a tape
loop attached to them, by which they can be suspended against a wall.

DRESSING TABLE COVERS.--These may be made of any material that is proper
for the purpose. Fine diaper generally, but sometimes dimity and muslin
are employed, or the table is covered with a kind of Marseilles quilting
which is prepared expressly for the purpose. Sometimes the covers are
merely hemmed round, but they look much neater if fringed, or bordered
with a moderately full frill. Sometimes a worked border is set on. All
depends upon taste and fancy. A neat and genteel appearance in
accordance with the furniture of the apartment, should be especially
regarded.

PINCUSHION COVERS.--A large pincushion, having two covers belonging to
it, should belong to each toilet table. The covers are merely a bag into
which the cushion is slipped. They may be either worked or plain, and
should have small tassels at each corner, and a frill or fringe all
round.

TABLE LINEN.--This department of plain needlework comprises table
cloths, dinner napkins, and large and small tray napkins.

TABLE CLOTHS.--These may be purchased either singly or cut from the
piece. In the latter case, the ends should be hemmed as neatly as
possible.

DINNER NAPKINS.--These are of various materials; if cut from the piece,
they must be hemmed at the ends the same as table cloths. Large and
small tray napkins, and knife-box cloths, are made in the same manner.
The hemming of all these should be extremely neat. It is a pretty and
light employment for very young ladies; and in this way habits of
neatness and usefulness may be formed, which will be found very
beneficial in after life.

PANTRY LINEN.--In this department you will have to prepare pantry
cloths, dresser cloths, plate basket cloths, china, glass, and lamp
cloths, and aprons. Pantry knife-cloths should be of a strong and
durable material. The dresser cloths, or covers, look neat and are
useful. They are generally made of huckaback of moderate fineness; but
some ladies prefer making them of a coarser kind of damask. The plate
basket cloth is a kind of bag, which is put into the plate basket to
prevent the side from becoming greased or discolored. They are made of
linen, which is well fitted to the sides, and a piece the size and shape
of the bottom of the basket, is neatly seamed in. The sides are made to
hang over the basket, and are drawn round the rim by a tape, run into a
slit for that purpose. China cloths, and also glass cloths, are to be
made of fine soft linen, or diaper; and the cloths used in cleaning
lamps, &c., must be of flannel, linen, or silk. All these articles are
to be made in the same manner, that is, hemmed neatly at the ends; or
if there be no selvages, or but indifferent ones, all round. Nothing
looks more slovenly than ragged or unhemmed cloths, which are for
domestic use. Little girls of the humbler classes might be employed by
the more affluent, in making up those articles and a suitable
remuneration be given them. They would thus become more sensible of the
value of time, and would contract habits of industry, which would be of
essential service to them in the more advanced stages of their progress
through life. A fair price paid for work done, either by a child or an
adult, is far preferable to what is called charity. It at once promotes
industry, and encourages a spirit of honest independence, which is far
removed from unbecoming pride, as it is from mean and sneaking
servility. Benevolence is the peculiar glory of woman; and we hope that
all our fair readers will ever bear in mind, that real benevolence will
seek to enable the objects of its regard to secure their due share of
the comforts of life, by the honest employment of those gifts and
talents, with which Providence may have endowed them.

HOUSEMAID AND KITCHEN LINEN.--The next subject to which the attention of
the votress of plain needlework ought to be directed, is the preparation
of housemaid and kitchen linen. On these subjects, a very few general
observations will be all that is necessary. In the housemaid's
department, paint cloths, old and soft, and chamber-bottle cloths, fine
and soft, are to be provided. To these must be added, dusters, flannels
for scouring, and chamber bucket cloths, which last should be of a kind
and color different from any thing else. All these must be neatly hemmed
and run, or seamed, if necessary. Nothing in a well directed family
should bear the impress of neglect, or be suffered to assume an untidy
appearance. Clothes bags of different sizes, should also be provided, of
two yards in length, and either one breadth doubled, in which case only
one seam will be required; or of two breadths, which makes the bag more
suitable for large articles of clothing. These bags are to seamed up
neatly at the bottom, and to have strings which will draw, run in at the
top. The best material is canvas, or good, strong unbleached linen. In
the kitchen department, you will require both table and dresser cloths;
which should be made as neat as possible. Long towels, of good linen,
and of a sufficient length, should be made, to hang on rollers; they are
generally a full breadth, so that hemming the sides is unnecessary. They
should be two yards long, when doubled, and the ends should be secured
strongly and neatly together. If the selvage is bad, the best way is to
hem it at once. Kitchen dusters, tea cloths, and knife cloths, may be
made of any suitable material; but in all cases let the edges be turned
down, and neatly sewed or overcast.

PUDDING CLOTH.--This should be made of coarse linen, neatly hemmed
round, furnished with strings of strong tape, and marked.

JELLY BAG.--This is made of a half square, doubled so as to still form a
half square. The top must be hemmed, and be furnished with three loops,
by which it is to be suspended from the frame when in use.

Some miscellaneous instructions, which could not otherwise be
introduced, are to be found in the concluding chapter.




CHAPTER V.

PLAIN NEEDLEWORK.


MISCELLANEOUS INSTRUCTIONS.

BINDING.--Various kinds of work have binding set on to them in
preference to hemming them, or working them in herring-bone stitch.
Flannel is generally bound; sometimes with a thin tape, made for that
purpose, and called "flannel binding." It is also common to bind flannel
with sarcenet ribbon. The binding is so put on, as to show but little
over the edge on the right side, where it is hemmed down neatly; on the
other side, it is run on with small stitches.

BRAIDING.--Silk braid looks pretty, and is used for a variety of
purposes. In putting it on, it is best to sew it with silk drawn out of
the braid, as it is a better match, and the stitches will be less
perceived.

MARKING.--It is of essential importance that cloths should be marked and
numbered. This is often done with ink, but as some persons like to mark
with silk, we shall describe the stitch. Two threads are to be taken
each way of the cloth, and the needle must be passed three ways, in
order that the stitch may be complete. The first is aslant from the
person, toward the right hand; the second is downward, toward you: and
the third is the reverse of the first, that is, aslant from you toward
the left hand. The needle is to be brought out at the corner of the
stitch, nearest to that you are about to make. The shapes of the letters
or figures can be learnt from an inspection of any common sampler.

PIPING.--This is much used in ornamenting children's and other dresses.
It is made by inclosing a cord, of the proper thickness, in a stripe of
silk, cut the cross-way, and must be put on as evenly as possible.

PLAITING.--The plaits must be as even as it is possible to place them,
one against another. In double plaiting they lie both ways, and meet in
the middle.

TUCKS.--These require to be made even. You should have the breadth of
the tuck, and also the space between each, notched on a card. They look
the best run on with small and regular stitches. You must be careful to
take a back-stitch constantly, as you proceed.

MAKING BUTTONS.--Cover the wire with a piece of calico, or other
material of the proper size; turn in the corners neatly, and work round
the wire in button-hole stitch; work the centre like a star.

Some may think that we have been too minute; but we were desirous to
omit nothing that could be generally useful; and we have had regard also
to those ladies who, having been under no necessity of practising plain
needlework in their earlier years, are desirous of preparing articles
for their humbler fellow creatures, or by the sale of which, they
procure more ample supplies for the funds of charity. We have good
reason to believe, that many well-disposed persons would be glad, in
this way, to aid the cause of humanity--and to devote a portion of their
leisure hours to the augmenting of the resources of benevolence--but
they are destitute of the practical experience necessary to enable them
to do so. To all such, we hope our little manual will be an acceptable
offering, and enable them, by a judicious employment of the means and
talents committed to their trust, to realize the truth of the saying of
the wise man, "There is that scattereth and yet increaseth."


DIAGRAM.

  ___________________________________________________
  |  1 |  2 |  3 |  4 |  5 |  6 |  7 |  8 |  9 | 10 |
  |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----|
  | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 |
  |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----|
  | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 |
  |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----|
  | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 |
  |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----|
  | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 | 46 | 47 | 48 | 49 | 50 |
  |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----|
  | 51 | 52 | 53 | 54 | 55 | 56 | 57 | 58 | 59 | 60 |
  |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----|
  | 61 | 62 | 63 | 64 | 65 | 66 | 67 | 68 | 69 | 70 |
  |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----|
  | 71 | 72 | 73 | 74 | 75 | 76 | 77 | 78 | 79 | 80 |
  |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----|
  | 81 | 82 | 83 | 84 | 85 | 86 | 87 | 88 | 89 | 90 |
  |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----|
  | 91 | 92 | 93 | 94 | 95 | 96 | 97 | 98 | 99 |100 |
  |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----|
  |101 |102 |103 |104 |105 |106 |107 |108 |109 |110 |
  |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----|
  |111 |112 |113 |114 |115 |116 |117 |118 |119 |120 |
  ---------------------------------------------------

In order to render the elementary stitches of fancy needle-work as easy
of acquirement as possible, we subjoin the following diagram; any lady
will thus be able to form the various stitches, by simply taking a piece
of canvas, and counting the corresponding number of threads, necessary
to form a square like the diagram; she will perceive the lines
represent the threads of the canvas, the squares numbered being the
holes formed by the intersection of the threads; and following the
directions given in the accompanying chapter, she will soon be able to
work any patterns here exhibited, and such new ones as her inventive
genius may lead her to design.




CHAPTER VI.

FANCY NEEDLEWORK.


EXPLANATION OF STITCHES.

The Art of Fancy Needlework is closely allied to the sister ones of
Painting and Design; and appears to have been well understood amongst
the most polished nations of antiquity. We know that the art was
practised with considerable success, by the Babylonians, Egyptians,
Persians, and Arabians, as well as by the Greeks and Romans. The Jews
brought the art of needlework with them, out of Egypt, as we learn from
the directions for building the Tabernacle, and preparing the holy
garments; and Sidon is celebrated for the rich wares of broidered
cloths, in which part of her extensive traffic consisted. In more modern
times, we find the fair hands of the ladies of Europe employed in
depicting the events of history, in tapestry, of which the much
celebrated Bayeux tapestry--supposed to have been wrought by Matilda,
the beloved wife of William the Norman--detailing the various
occurrences in the life of Harold, from his arrival in Normandy, to the
fatal battle of Hastings, is a standing proof. Ladies of high rank
employed themselves thus, for various purposes, previous to the
reformation; and it is a fact, worthy of especial notice, that in those
ages, when it has been required for the adornment of the temples, and
the encouragement of honorable valor and has thus become associated with
the sanctifying influences of religion and manly virtue, it has
flourished most.[64-*] Queen Adelicia, wife of Henry I.; Ann, queen of
France; Catherine, of Aragon; Lady Jane Grey; Mary Queen of Scots; and
Queen Elizabeth, all excelled in this delightful art. At the
Reformation, or soon after that event, needlework began sensibly to
decline, and continued to do so, until the commencement of the present
century. At that time, a new and elevated development of mind began to
appear, which was accompanied by a very visible advancement in every
department of arts and sciences. This revival of the fine arts, like the
mental and sacred gushing forth of mind, which gave it birth, was often
in extremely bad taste; but as the latter becomes more purified and
exalted, the former advances in improvement--mind asserts its
superiority over matter, and infuses into the useful and ornamental, a
living spirit of moral affection and enlightened sentiment. The year
1800 gave to the world, the celebrated Berlin patterns; but it was not
until a lapse of thirty years, that their merits became generally
appreciated; but now, such is the perfection attained in the cultivation
of the art of needlework, that some of its productions, for delicacy and
expression, may almost bear comparison with painting in oil.

[Illustration]

TENT STITCH.--Work the cross way of the canvas, bringing your needle up
through the diagram, No. 2 down 11, one stitch; up 3 down 12, up 4 down
13, and so continue to the end. This stitch is proper for grounding, and
for groups of flowers; but in the latter case, it will produce the best
effect if the flowers are done in tent stitch, and the grounding in
tent cross stitch (which is the same as tent stitch, only crossed.)

[Illustration]

CROSS STITCH.--Is the same as marking stitch; bring your needle up 21
down 3, up 23 down 1, one stitch, up 41 down 23, up 43 down 21, and so
continue till your work is finished. All the stitches must incline to
the right, or the work will appear imperfect and unsightly.

[Illustration]

DOUBLE CROSS STITCH.--This is a stitch very easy of execution. Bring
your needle up No. 41, over four threads, down 5, up 1 down 45, up 43
down 25, up 3 down 25, up 3 down 21, up 43 down 21, one stitch. Four,
six, or eight threads may be taken in depth, and two in width, according
as taste may suggest. This is an admirable stitch for large pieces of
work. Gold thread introduced between each row is a desirable addition to
its attractive beauty.

[Illustration]

STRAIGHT CROSS STITCH.--This is a new invention, and has a pretty
appearance. Bring your needle up No. 11 down 13, up 2 down 22, one
stitch; up 31 down 33, up 22 down 42, and so on in like manner, till the
work is finished.

[Illustration]

DOUBLE STRAIGHT CROSS STITCH.--Bring your needle up No. 3 down 43, up 21
down 25, up 14 down 32, up 12 down 34, one stitch. Owing to the number
of times the wool is crossed, each stitch has a very bead-like
appearance. A piece wholly worked in this, has an admirable effect.

[Illustration]

GOBELIN STITCH.--This truly beautiful stitch is especially calculated
for working on canvas traced with flowers, leaves, &c.; and also for
working designs, copied from oil paintings. Bring your needle up No. 2
down 21, one stitch, up 3 down 22, up 4 down 23, and so on to the end of
the row. The stitches may be taken either in height or width, as may
best accord with the taste, or with the subject represented.

[Illustration]

BASKET STITCH.--This is the same as Irish stitch, but the arrangement is
different. Work three stitches over two threads; these are called short
stitches; and then the long ones are formed by working three over six
threads, the centre of which are the two on which the short stitches
were worked. Thus you must continue the short and long stitches
alternately, until you have finished the row. In the next, the long
stitches must come under the short ones; and this diversity must be kept
up until all the rows are completed. To finish the pattern, you have
only to run a loose film of wool under the long stitches on each of the
short ones, and the task is done.

[Illustration]

IRISH STITCH.--This is the production of an Irish lady of high rank.
Bring your needle up No. 1 over four threads down 41, one stitch back
two threads, up 22 down 62, up 43 (observe this is in a line with 41)
down 83, up 64 (in a line with 62) down 104, up 102 down 62, up 81 down
41, continuing thus over the square. The spaces left between every other
stitch must be filled up with half stitches; for instance, up 81 down
101, up 83 down 103. It is also sometimes worked covering six and eight
threads of the canvas at a time, coming back three or four threads, in
the same proportion as the directions given. This stitch is proper for
grounding, when the design is worked in tent or cross stitch; and the
effect would be heightened by two strongly contrasted shades of the same
color. It can be applied to a great variety of devices, diamonds and
vandykes for example, and many others which will suggest themselves to
the fair votaries of this delightful art. It looks pretty, and is easy
of execution.

[Illustration]

FEATHER STITCH.--This, as its name implies, has a light and feathery
appearance, and will be found proper for any work in which lightness
should predominate. You must proceed as in tent stitch, and work over
twelve threads or less, but not more; then bring your needle out one
thread below, and cross on each side of your straight stitch: you must
so continue, taking care to drop a thread in height and keeping the
bottom even with the long stitch with which you began. Thus proceed
until you have ten threads on the cross, which will make a square: of
course you must, in the same manner, form all the squares necessary to
complete the row. You can vary the pattern considerably by making the
edges irregular, which is done by lowering your slant stitches, the
first one two, and the next one thread, and so proceeding. This will, in
our opinion, improve the appearance of the work. You can introduce as
many shades as you please, only taking care that a proper contrast is
duly preserved. You finish by stitching up the centre of each row on a
single thread. For this purpose, silk or gold thread may be introduced
with advantage. It should be remarked, that each row must be worked the
contrary way to the one that preceded it, so that the wide and narrow
portions may meet and blend with each other.

[Illustration]

POINT STITCH.--To work this stitch, take four threads straight way of
the canvas, and bring the needle three steps up, and so proceed until
your point is of a sufficient depth. This stitch looks pretty, worked in
different and well contrasted shades, and may be applied to many useful
and ornamental purposes.

[Illustration]

QUEEN STITCH.--Work over four threads in height and two in width,
crossing from right to left, and back again. Finish each row by a stitch
across, between them, taking a thread of each, and, of course, working
upon two threads. This is a very neat stitch.

[Illustration]

QUEEN'S VANDYKE.--This is supposed to be the invention of Princess
Clementina, one of the daughters, we believe of a king of France. Take
twelve threads, and reduce two each stitch, until the length and breadth
are in conformity. It can be introduced into a variety of work, and
looks well.

[Illustration]

SINGLE PLAIT STITCH.--Pass the needle across the canvas through two
threads, from right to left; you then cross four threads downward, and
pass the needle as before; then cross upward over two threads aslant,
and again pass over four threads, always working downward, and passing
the needle from right to left, across two threads, until the row is
completed as far as you desire.

[Illustration]

DOUBLE PLAIT STITCH.--This stitch is from left to right across four
threads aslant downward, and crossed from right to left, the needle
passing out at the left, in the middle of the four threads just crossed,
and so continue working downward, until you have finished the pattern.

VELVET STITCH.--This is a combination of cross stitch and queen stitch,
and is very ornamental when properly done. You work in plain cross
stitch three rows, then leave three threads, and again work three rows
as before; thus proceed until your canvas is covered, leaving three
threads between every triple row of cross stitch. Then across the rows
work in queen stitch with double wool; but instead of taking two
distinct threads for each stitch, you may take one thread of the
preceding stitch; this will give an added thickness to your work. It
will be advisable to work the wool over slips of card or parchment, as
doing so will make it better to cut. If you work it in squares, they
should not be larger than seventeen stitches; and to look well, they
must each be placed the contrary way to the other.

ALGERINE WORK.--This work much resembles a Venetian carpet, but is
finer; it looks best done in very small patterns. It is worked over
cotton piping cord, the straight way of the corners; the stitches are
over three threads. Your work as in raised work, putting the colors in
as you come to them, and counting three stitches in width, as one stitch
when you are working Berlin pattern. The paper canvas is No. 45 and the
cord No. 00. It is proper for table mats and other thick kinds of work.

TO FILL UP CORNERS.--Work in any stitch you prefer and shade in
accordance with the subject. In these, and ornamental borders, &c.,
there is much room for the development of taste and judgment. In all
that, you undertake, it will be well for you to recollect, that nothing
is lost by taking time to think. However trivial and unimportant our
actions may be, they should always be preceded by mature deliberation. A
habit of thought once established will remain through life, and protect
its possessor from the countless miseries of rash actions, and the
agonies of remorse and unavailable repentance.


FOOTNOTES:

[64-*] The presentation of an embroidered scarf was a common mark of
approval in the ages of chivalry.




CHAPTER VII.

FANCY NEEDLEWORK.


EXPLANATION OF PATTERNS.

[Illustration]

THE BEAUFORT STAR.--This is a beautiful pattern, and will look well, as
a centre, for any moderately-sized piece of work. Begin on the width of
the canvas, and take twelve threads, reducing at every stitch, one
thread for six rows, and thus continue decreasing and increasing
alternately, to form squares like diamonds, to the end of the row. The
next row is performed in the same manner, only you work on the long way
of the canvas. Introduce gold or silver thread between where the
stitches join, and so finish.

[Illustration]

CHESS PATTERN.--Work a square in cross stitch, with three stitches,
making three of a dark shade and six of white, working as many squares
as you require, and leaving spaces equal to those occupied by cross
stitch, which you must fill up with Irish stitch, working across the
canvas. You can employ any color that will harmonize well with the cross
stitch; and to complete the pattern, you must work a single stitch
across each square, in Irish stitch.

DICE PATTERN.--This is formed by working rows of eight stitches, in any
color you please. You must here have four shades, and work two stitches
in each shade. Commence a stitch, over ten threads, and drop one each
time, until you have taken eight stitches; the intermediate spaces are
for the ground, which must contrast with the pattern; and the
introduction of a little gold or silver thread, would be an improvement.

[Illustration]

DOUBLE DIAMOND, IN LONG STITCH.--This pattern, when it is worked in two
colors strongly contrasted, and the diamonds composed of beads, is
exceedingly beautiful. The shades of scarlet and blue, on a white or
black ground, produce the most agreeable effect.

[Illustration]

GERMAN PATTERN.--There is a Gothic grandeur and sobriety about this
pattern which gives to it a noble and grave aspect. It is worked in
Irish stitch, six threads straight down the second row, falling about
four stitches below the first; the third, the same below the second; the
fourth and fifth the same number below the third; the next three the
same; and then six in the same proportion. You then increase, and so
render the arch uniform. The pattern then looks like the head of a
Gothic column reversed; and the centre should be so disposed as to
produce the best effect: those for the first and last row must be of the
same tint; and the same rule applies to all the rest. A lady can, of
course, choose her own colors; but care must be had to blend the
alternate light and dark shades so as to produce a natural harmony.

[Illustration]

IRISH DIAMOND.--This is beautiful, and is very easy of execution.
Commence with two threads, and increase to fourteen, working across the
canvas, and increasing one thread each way; then decrease to two in the
same manner; and so proceed, until the row is completed. Begin the next
row two threads down the canvas, and place a gold or steel bead in the
centre of each diamond. Finish with a bordering of gold twist, or mother
of pearl.

[Illustration]

LACE.--This is a new invention, and is somewhat difficult of execution.
The recognized material is a black Chantilly silk. It is mostly worked
from Berlin patterns, and may be done either in cross stitch, or in
straight stitch pattern: the edge is finished in cross stitch with wool.
You may imitate a pearl border, by taking two threads directly behind
the border. It is used for sofa pillows, &c., to which it forms a very
pretty termination indeed.

HEART PATTERN.--This pattern looks well. Pass the wool over ten threads
in the centre, then make four additional stitches of ten threads,
dropping one each time from the top, and taking one up at the bottom;
then take the sixth stitch, dropping a thread at the top as before, but
keeping the bottom even with the fifth stitch; your seventh stitch must
be in six threads, decreasing two both at the top and bottom; and your
last will be on two threads, worked in the same manner: then proceed to
form the other half of the pattern. The hearts may be worked in various
shades of the same color, and the space between them is to filled up
with a diamond, or with an ornament in gold twist, or pearl.

[Illustration]

PRINCESS ROYAL.--Work this in rows of stitches over four and two threads
alternately, leaving one thread between each stitch: begin the next row
two threads down, with a stitch over two threads, and proceed as before.
Work in two strongly contrasted shades, and fill in the vacancies with
gold or pearl beads.

ROMAN PATTERN.--The material to be used, in working the pattern, is
purse twist; and the grounding may be done in gobelin or tent stitch.
The pattern is to be worked in three shades, of the same color; the
centre forming a diamond in the lightest shade, then the next, and
lastly the darkest to form a broad outline. This kind of work is done
quickly, and presents a rich appearance.

[Illustration]

RUSSIAN PATTERN.--This is worked in rows across the canvas, in stitches
of irregular lengths, and has a pleasing effect. Pass the first stitch
over sixteen threads, the second over twelve, the third over sixteen,
and so proceed to the seventh row, which is the centre. Pass the stitch
over eighteen threads, and proceed as before for six rows; leave a space
of four threads, and commence as at first. Form the second row in the
same manner, leaving four threads between the longest stitches in each
row: the rows may be worked in any number of shades, taking care to
preserve uniformity, and the spaces must be filled in with a diamond,
worked in the same manner, but reduced in size, and in one color; or it
may be worked in gold thread, which would greatly relieve the monotonous
appearance of the pattern. It will be best to begin and finish each row
with a half diamond.

[Illustration]

VICTORIA PATTERN.--Pass the wool or silk for the centre stitch over six
threads, the next over five, and so proceed to the corner, which will be
on one thread; the other side must be done in a different shade, but the
same color, and the shades of each must be turned alternately the
opposite way. The corner stitch should be of some brilliant colored
silk, if not of gold thread: the top of one square will be the bottom of
another, and you work the three stitches between the corners in black or
dark wool. The squares must be filled in with long stitch, working from
corner to corner, across the canvas.

WAVE PATTERN.--These are extremely beautiful, when worked in four or
five shades. They are done in Irish stitch, and the rows must be worked
close together, the wool is passed over six threads, and the rows
dropped a few threads below each other, so as to form a wave. The
pattern may be varied almost infinitely; the following forms a beautiful
specimen: work six rows of any length you choose, dropping one stitch at
the top and adding one to the bottom of each row; then proceed upwards,
for six rows, and you will obtain a beautiful pointed wave, the seventh
row forming the centre; then work nine rows, of which the first, third,
fifth seventh, and ninth, must be level with the second row of the
pointed wave; and the second, fourth, sixth, and eight, must be on a
level with the first and last rows, while the first, third, fifth,
seventh, and ninth, must drop two stitches, so as to produce an
irregular edge; then work a pointed wave, as before, and the pattern is
complete.

[Illustration]

WINDSOR PATTERN.--In working this pattern, you must count eight threads
down the canvas, and then increase one each way, until you have twelve,
so as to form a diamond of six sides. The second row must be begun with
twelve threads, so as to join the longest stitch in the former row. When
each row is finished, the intersectional diamonds must be filled in;
which may be done either in silk or gold thread, and has an extremely
neat appearance.


SUGGESTIONS AS TO PATTERNS.

For bottle-stand, or any small piece of work, star patterns are very
beautiful. The materials proper for working them, are silk and wool,
with gold or any other kind of beads, and gold thread or twist. For
foundations, you may use either velvet or silk canvas.

Small sprigs are pretty, for work that is not too large; chenille is
proper for the flowers, and the stalks and leaves look best in silk; a
few gold beads add to the effect.

For large pieces of work, medallion patterns are much used, and produce
a good impression on the eye; the outline is to be traced in brilliant
silk, and for the centre employ two shades of the same color, working
half in each shade; the medallion should be placed upon a white field,
and the whole grounded in a dark color, which harmonizes well with the
design of the pattern.

Bags may be worked in a variety of ways, to suit taste and convenience.
The border is often made to resemble black lace, and when properly
executed, looks extremely well. The parts filled up, should be worked in
black floss or black wool. Leaves may be worked with gold twist, or
beads may be employed. The grounding should be in fine twisted silk: any
color may be used. In other cases, white wool, white silk, silver and
glass beads, and several other materials are in requisition; so that
here is ample scope for classification and arrangement. A mourning bag
looks well done to imitate lace, worked in black floss silk, and
ornamented with black glass and silver beads, disposed in a tasteful and
ornamental style. Sometimes a bag is worked as a shield of four squares;
in such a case, two squares should be worked in feather stitch, and the
others in any stitch that will form a pleasing contrast: the border
should be a simple, but elegant lace pattern.

For braces and bracelets, any small border pattern may be adopted. They
should be worked in two colors, highly contrasted, for bracelets: gold
twist round the edge is a great addition.

These suggestions in reference to patterns, might have been greatly
extended; but we wish every young lady to draw upon the resources of her
own mind, and to think for herself. To one, who is desirous to excel, we
have said enough; a little thought will enable her to apply the general
principles, here laid down, to any particular case; and, without the
employment of the thinking faculty, the most minute instructions, in
this or any other art, would fail in producing their intended effects.




CHAPTER VIII.

FANCY NEEDLEWORK.


INSTRUCTIONS IN EMBROIDERY.

EMBROIDERY WITH SILK.--The materials used as foundations, are various,
embracing silk, satin, cloth, and velvet; and the silk employed in
working is purse silk, deckers, half twist, and floss; but floss is most
in request.

Embroidery should always be worked in a frame, as it cannot be done well
on the hand, except in very small pieces. The same careful attention to
shades, before recommended, is necessary here; for small flowers two or
three shades are sufficient; but in roses and others, that are large,
five shades are in general required; the darker shades should be worked
into the centre of the flower, (and it is often advisable to work them
in French knots,)[79-*] and thence proceed with the lighter, until you
come to the lightest, which forms the outline. The pattern must be
correctly drawn upon the material, and in working leaves you must begin
with the points, working in the lighter shades first, and veining with a
shade more dark: you may soften the blending, by working each shade up,
between the stitches of the preceding shade. Three, or at most four
shades, are sufficient for the leaves: the introduction of more would
injure the effect.

CHENILLE EMBROIDERY.--Is very beautiful for screens, &c., but must not
be used for any work that is liable to pressure. Choose a needle as
large as can be conveniently used, and be careful not to have the
lengths of chenille too long, as it is apt to get rough in the working.
For flowers, it is necessary that the shades should not be too near. The
chenille must pass through the material freely, so as not to draw it. It
looks well done in velvet, with occasional introductions of gold and
silver thread.

RAISED EMBROIDERY.--Draw the pattern on the material as before. Work the
flowers, &c., to the height required, in soft cotton, taking care that
the centre is much higher than the edges. A careful study of nature is
indispensable to the attainment of excellence in this kind of work.
Pursue the same method with your colors, as in flat embroidery, only
working them much closer. The most striking effect is produced when the
flowers or animals are raised, and leaves in flat embroidery. Much in
this, as in every department of this charming art, must depend upon the
taste and judgment--correct or otherwise--of the fair artist. A servile
copyist will never attain to excellence.

EMBROIDERY IN WOOL.--This is proper for any large piece of work. The
rules for shading embroidery with silk apply here; only the work must
not be quite so thick on the material; care must also be taken to bring
the wool through on the right side, as near as possible to where it
passes through, in order that none may appear on the wrong side, which
would occasion much trouble in drawing it, even when removed from the
frame. When finished, and while in the frame, it will be proper to damp
the back with a little isinglass water, and press with a warm iron on
the wrong side. This kind of work is appropriate for the ornamenting of
various articles of dress, on which, when judiciously placed, it has a
pleasing effect.

PATTERNS.--This is a part of fancy needlework to which too much
attention cannot be paid, but it is one much neglected. We want to see
native genius developed, and we are convinced that many a fair one could
increase our stock of patterns, with new and surprising conceptions, if
she could but be induced to make the trial. To draw patterns for
embroidery or braid work, get a piece of cartridge paper, and having
drawn out the design, trace it off upon tissue paper, or which is
better, a tracing paper, properly prepared; after which you will find it
easy to pierce it through with a piercer, taking care not to run one
hole into another. Lay the paper so prepared upon the material which you
intend to work, and dust it with a pounce bag, so that the powder may go
through the holes; the paper must then be carefully removed, and if the
material be dark, take a camel's hair pencil, and paint the marks with a
mixture of white lead and gum water; or if you prefer it, you can trace
the marks left by the pounce, with a black-lead pencil, but the other
methods are preferable. A little practice and perseverance will enable
you to became tolerably proficient in this department, and confer upon
you the further advantage of aiding you in acquiring those habits of
untiring diligence, which are so essential to the attainment of any
object. Ever recollect, that anything worth doing at all, is worth doing
well.


FOOTNOTES:

[79-*] This applies especially to the working of dahlias: begin with the
centre knot and work round it as many as are required.




CHAPTER IX.

FANCY NEEDLEWORK.


PREPARATION OF FRAMES.

This is a subject which must be carefully attended to, or much
unnecessary trouble will be incurred in consequence.

TO DRESS A FRAME FOR CROSS STITCH.--The canvas must be hemmed neatly
round: then count your threads, and place the centre one exactly in the
middle of the frame. The canvas must be drawn as tight as the screws or
pegs will permit; and if too long, should be wrapped round the poles
with tissue paper, to keep it from dust and the friction of the arms, as
that is essential to the beauty of the work. It must in all cases be
rolled _under_, or it will occasion much trouble in the working. When
placed quite even in the frame, secure by fine twine passed over the
stretchers, and through the canvas very closely; both sides must be
tightened gradually, or it will draw to one side, and the work will be
spoiled.

TO DRESS A FRAME FOR CLOTH WORK.--Stretch your cloth in the frame as
tight as possible, the right side uppermost.

The canvas on which you intend to work, must be of a size to correspond
with the pattern, and must be placed exactly in the centre of the cloth,
to which it is to be secured as smooth as possible. When the work is
finished the canvas must be cut, and the threads drawn out, first one
and then the other. It is necessary to be especially careful in working,
not to split the threads, as that would prevent them drawing, and would
spoil the appearance of the work. In all cases, it is advisable to place
the cloth so as that the nap may go downward. In working bouquets of
flowers, this rule is indispensable.

The patterns for cloth work should be light and open. It looks well for
sofas, arm chairs, &c., but is by no means so durable as work done with
wool, entirely on canvas.

TO DRESS A FRAME FOR TENT STITCH.--Prepare the frame, and brace the
canvas as for cross stitch, only not quite even, but inclining the
contrary way to that in which you slant your stitch. This is necessary,
as tent stitch always twists a little. This method will cause the work,
when taken out of the frame, to appear tolerably straight. Should it
after all be crooked, it should be nailed at the edges to a square
board, and the work may then be pulled even by the threads so as to
become perfectly straight. The back of the work should then be slightly
brushed over with isinglass water, taking care not to let the liquid
come through to the right side. A sheet of paper must be placed between
the work and the board, and when nearly dry, another must be laid upon
it, and the whole ironed with a warm iron, not too hot, or the
brilliancy of the colors will be destroyed.

Some persons use flour instead of isinglass, but it is highly improper,
and should never be resorted to.


INSTRUCTIONS FOR WORKING.

ARMORIAL BEARINGS.--Work the arms and crest in silk, as brilliancy is
the thing here principally required. It will be proper that the scroll
should be worked in wool. The contrast will have a pleasing effect.

APPLIQUE.--This is a very beautiful kind of work. The material may be
either silk, or cloth, or any other fabric which may be preferred. Upon
this foundation, pieces of satin, velvet, &c., are to be carefully
tacked down; the pattern, leaves, flowers, &c., must then be drawn, both
on the foundation, and the materials of which they are to be formed;
after which, they must be cut out and sewed on in the neatest manner
possible. They are then to be braided with their own colors round the
edges; you must also braid the tendrils and the veins of leaves; work
the centre of leaves in a long stitch, and the kind of silk called purse
silk, and after braiding the centre of flowers--if single--work over
them with French knots, made by twining the silk twice round the needle,
and passing it through the material. This kind of work, as covers for
tables chairs, &c., is very elegant, and has a good effect.

BEAD WORK.--Use the canvas called bolting; and work two threads each way
on the slant, with china silk, taking especial care that the beads are
all turned the same way, that the whole may appear uniform. Work the
pattern with thick beads and ground with transparent ones. You must, in
this kind of work, have as few shades as possible.

BRAID WORK.--Trace the pattern in the material, and proceed with the
various shades, from the outline or lightest, to the darkest, till the
whole is completed. In this work only two shades are for leaves, and
three for flowers; make the points as sharp as possible, and in turning
the points, work one stitch up close to the point where you turn the
braid, and another immediately afterwards to keep it in its place. Vein
the leaves in a bouquet with purse silk use gold braid in finishing as
taste may direct; and in fastening draw the braid through the material.
The best instrument for this purpose is a chenille needle. In braid work
and applique, only one stitch must be taken at a time, or else the work
will appear puckered.

BRACES.--Work in silk canvas three inches broad, in silk or wool, in any
pattern you prefer.

GEM, OR SET PATTERNS.--For this kind of work, ground in black or dark
wool, and work the patterns in silks, as distinct and bright as
possible, and with the utmost variety of colors. The beauty of these
productions of the needle, depends chiefly upon their brilliant and
gem-like appearance.

GOBELIN.--If you work in coarse canvas, adopt the same contrast of
shades as you employ in cross stitch; if the material be fine, you must
shade as in tent stitch.

GENTLEMEN'S WAISTCOATS.--To ornament the dress of a father, brother, or
husband, must at all times be a pleasing employment for domestic
affection. For dress waistcoats, embroider satin, either in the form of
a wreath, round the edge of the waistcoat, or in small sprigs; for
morning, you may work in any pattern you prefer. Patterns of the
Caledonian Clans are now much admired.

LANDSCAPES.--These may be rendered extremely beautiful, if properly
managed. The trees in front should be much lighter than those seen in
the back ground, and great care should be taken to prevent the latter
having too blue a cast, as this renders them unharmonious, when
contrasted with the sky. Represent water by shades of a blue grey: the
sky should be a serene blue, with much closeness, and mingled with
clouds composed of varying tints of a white and a yellow drab. If
mountains are seen in the distance, they should be of a grey lavender
tint, and some living animal should, in nearly all cases, be
introduced. The presence of a cow, sheep, &c., gives life and animation
to the view.

MOSAIC WORK.--If you work with wool, cut it into short lengths, and
untwist it. No wool can be procured sufficiently fine for this kind of
work. If you work with silk, the finest floss is preferable to any
other: split silk would be found extremely inconvenient, and the work
would not look so well. Care must be taken that the shades are very
distinct, or they will appear jumbled and unsightly. It will also be
necessary to fasten off at every shade, and not to pass from one flower
to another, as in that case the fastenings would become visible on the
right side, and thus impair the beauty of the performance. In working a
landscape, some recommend placing behind the canvas a painted sky, to
avoid the trouble of working one. As a compliance with such advice would
tend to foster habits of idleness, and thus weaken the sense of moral
propriety which should in all we do be ever present with us, as well as
destroy that nice sense of honor and sincerity which flies from every
species of deception, we hope the fair votaries of this delightful art
will reject the suggestion with the contempt it merits.

PATTERNS ON CANVAS.--Employ for canvas four or five shades, beginning
with the darkest, and softening gradually into a lighter tint, till you
come to the lightest, following the distinction of contrast exhibited by
the Berlin patterns. If you wish to introduce silk into any part, it
will be best to work it in last. Be careful to avoid taking odd threads,
if you work the pattern in cross stitch.

PERFORATED CARD.--The needle must not be too large, or the holes will be
liable to get broken. The smaller ones must be worked in silk: the
larger patterns may be done in either silk or wool. Sometimes the
flowers are worked in Chenille, and the leaves in silk; this gives to
card cases, &c., a beautiful and highly ornamental appearance.

RUG BORDERING.--Use a wooden mesh, grooved, an inch and a quarter in
width; pass the material over the mesh, and work in cross stitch: the
material to be used, is what is called slacks, (a kind of worsted,)
which must be six or eight times doubled. You must leave three threads
between each row, and not more than eight rows are required to complete
the border.

WIRE WORK.--For this work choose shades of a light in preference to a
dark color, and work with silk. If you employ both silk and wool, silk
must be used for the lighter shades, or the beauty of the work will be
impaired. Sponge the whole before commencing work.




CHAPTER X.

FANCY NEEDLEWORK.


APPLICATION OF FANCY NEEDLEWORK TO USEFUL PURPOSES.

LACE.--This imitation is used as an elegant finish for carriage bags,
sofa pillows, &c.; and also for ladies' work bags, to which it is both
ornamental and becoming.

PRINCESS ROYAL.--This pattern is especially proper for bags or small
stands.

POINT STITCH, is well adapted for working covers for hassocks, as well
as for bags of a considerable size.

BASKET STITCH.--This kind of work is very elegant for flower, fruit, or
work baskets; or any other of an ornamental character.

GERMAN PATTERN, is well adapted for slippers, as, when worked, it is
found to be very durable, and its appearance peculiarly fits it for this
application.

EMBROIDERY, is of almost universal application: that with chenille is
much used in the ornamental parts of dress, and is productive of a most
pleasing effect. Embroidery in wool is also much in use for the same
purpose.

RUG BORDERINGS.--These may be considered as articles of domestic
economy; and besides the pleasure which arises from seeing the parlor,
or the side-board, adorned with the elegant productions of a daughter,
or a sister, this kind of work is at all times, when properly executed,
superior, considered merely as work, far superior to any similar
productions emanating from the loom.

GENTLEMEN'S WAISTCOATS AND BRACES.--By being able to perform this kind
of work, it is at all times in the power of the fair sex to offer an
elegant present to a father, husband, or brother, and thus to increase
the hallowed pleasures of the domestic circle. This reason is amply
sufficient to induce our lovely countrywomen to cultivate this
department of fancy needlework.

WIRE WORK.--This is a lovely material for baskets, and various kinds of
ornamental fabrications.

WORKING FIGURES.--This delightful application of the needle may be
rendered subservient to numerous useful and interesting purposes. By it
the sister arts of painting and design may be materially promoted: the
scenes of former days may be delineated on the historic canvas, or the
portrait of a departed friend may be placed before us, as when blooming
in all the living lustre of angelic loveliness. Let this portion of the
art be especially and assiduously cultivated.

ARMORIAL BEARINGS.--These are proper for screens, and may be made of a
high moral utility, by exciting in the minds of the young, an ardent
desire to become acquainted with the events of history, and with the
actions and principles of former times.

MOSAIC WORK, AND PERFORATED CARD.--These are used for note books,
ornamental card cases, hand screens, book marks and a variety of other
useful purposes.

BRAID WORK.--The application of this kind of work is well known, and is
so general, that no particular cases need be pointed out.

APPLIQUE.--This is very elegant, as employed for table covers, sofas,
chairs, &c.; indeed it always looks pretty, and to whatever it is
applied it has a pleasing effect.

STAR PATTERNS, are proper for sofa cushions, bottle stands, or any piece
of work that is small.

MEDALLION PATTERN.--Where the work is coarse, or large, these may be
introduced with good effect; but especial attention must be paid to a
proper combination of colors and shades.




CHAPTER XI.

FANCY NEEDLEWORK.


SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS.

INSTRUCTIONS IN GROUNDING.--Care must be taken in grounding to make the
effect of contrast very conspicuous. Thus, if you ground in dark colors,
your pattern should be worked in shades of a light and lively tint; for
those in which dark shades predominate, a light ground is indispensible.
The canvas for white grounding should be white; and if for dark
grounding, a striped fabric is employed. The stripes will sometimes
appear through the wool. To prevent this it will be necessary to rub
over the surface with a little Indian ink water previous to commencing
working, but care must be taken not to let the mixture run into the
edges of the work, and it must be quite dry before you commence
grounding. A camel's hair brush is best for this purpose. In working in
cross stitch, it is best to do so on the slant, working from right to
left across the canvas, and then back again. This is preferable to
crossing each stitch as you proceed, and gives an improved appearance to
the work.

If you work in tent stitch, work straight, or your performance will be
uneven when taken out of the frame. In all cases begin to go round from
the centre, and work outwards, taking care to fasten off as you finish
with each needleful, which should not be too long, as the wool is
liable to get rough and soiled. It is also necessary to have them
irregular as to length, to prevent the fastenings coming together which
they will be apt to do if this suggestion is not attended to. For
working in tent stitch with single wool, the canvas must not have more
than fourteen threads to an inch; for cross stitch you must have a
canvas not coarser than twenty-two threads to an inch; for the former,
you will for every two and a half square inches require a skein of wool;
in the latter case a skein will cover two inches. Following this
calculation, you can easily ascertain the quantity of wool required for
any piece of work; and it is advisable to purchase all your wool at the
same time, otherwise you will have much trouble in matching the shades.
An attention to these instructions will soon make you a proficient in
the grounding department of the art.

WORKING FIGURES.--This is at once one of the most difficult, and at the
same time one of the most pleasing tasks which the votary of fancy
needlework will have to perform; they generally produce the best effect
when worked in wool and silk, with a judicious mixture of gold and
silver beads. The hair and drapery should be worked in cross stitch; and
the face, neck, and hands, in tent stitch; working four of the latter
for one of the former. To obtain the proper tints for the face, &c., is
no easy task; but it _must_ be carefully attended to, as almost the
whole beauty of the work depends upon it. The shades in these parts of
the figure must be extremely close; indeed upon shading of the features
the perfection of the performance mainly depends. The drapery also
demands considerable care: the shades must be very distinct,
particularly the lighter ones in the folds of the dress; and the back
ground should be subdued as much as possible, that a proper prominence
may be given to the figure: this object will be aided considerably by
working in the lighter shades in silk: any representation of water or of
painted glass, should be worked in the same material. The intention of
the fair worker should be to give to her performance as near an
approximation to oil painting as possible.

RAISED WORK.--This should be done with German wool, as it more nearly
resembles velvet. For working flowers, you must have two meshes,
one-seventh of an inch in width, and the pattern must be worked in
gobelin stitch. Be careful not to take one mesh out, until you have
completed the next row. You work across the flowers; and in order to
save an unnecessary waste of time, as well as to facilitate your work,
it will be best to thread as many needles as you require shades, taking
care not to get the various shades mixed together. This is more needful,
as you cannot, as in cross stitch, finish one shade before commencing
another. When the pattern is worked, cut straight across each row, with
a pair of scissors suitable to the purpose, and shear the flower into
its proper form.

For working animals or birds, you must have three meshes; the first, one
quarter; and the third, one seventh of an inch: the second must be a
medium between these two. You will require the largest for the breast,
and the upper parts of the wings. Cross stitch may be employed in
working the beak, or feet, and is indeed preferable. You may work
leaves, either in cross stitch or in gobelin stitch, as taste or fancy
may direct. You may work either from a drawing on canvas, or from Berlin
pattern; but the latter is decidedly to be preferred.

WORKING BERLIN PATTERNS.--For these patterns, it will be necessary to
work in canvas, of eighteen or ten threads to the inch, according as you
may desire the work to be a larger, or of the same size as the pattern:
and, it must be borne in mind, that all the patterns are drawn for tent
stitch, so that if you work in cross stitch, and wish to have it the
same size as the pattern, you must count twenty stitches on the canvas,
for ten on the paper. The choice of colors, for these patterns, is a
matter of essential importance as the transition from shade to shade, if
sudden and abrupt, will entirely destroy the beauty of the design. A
natural succession of tints, softly blending into each other, can, alone
produce the desired effect. In working flowers, five or six shades will
be required: in a rose, or other large flower, six shades are almost
indispensible; of these, the darkest should form the perfect centre,
then the next (not prominently, though perceptibly) differing from it,
and the next four to the lightest tint; the whole, to be so managed, as
to give to the flower that fulness, and distinctness, which its position
in the design demands. For small flowers, so many shades are rarely
necessary. The two darkest shades should be strong, the others soft;
this secures sufficiency of contrast, without impairing that harmony of
tints, which is so indispensible. You must recollect, that for work done
in tent stitch, a greater contrast of shade is required, than for that
done in cross stitch. This remark should never be lost sight of. A
proper attention to the shading of leaves, is indispensible; the kinds
of green required, for this purpose, are bright grass green, for a rose;
Saxon green, for lilies, convolvolus, peonies, &c.; French green, for
iris, marigold, narcissus, &c.; and for poppies, tulips, &c.; a willow
green, which has a rather bluer tint than French green is generally; and
for leaves which stand up above the flowers, or near them, it is proper
to work the tips in a very light green, as reflecting the rays of light:
the next shade should be four times darker, or three at the least; the
next two; then the fourth shade, two darker than the third; and the
fifth, two darker than the fourth: take care that the veins of leaves be
distinctly marked, and those which are in the shade should be darker
than those upon which the light falls; and if of a color having a bluish
tint, a few worked in olive green will have a fine effect. The stalks of
roses, &c., should be worked in olive brown or a very dark green. White
flowers are often spoilt, by being worked of too dark a shade; if you do
not work with silk, you may obtain two distinct shades of white, by
using Moravian cotton and white wool; these combined with three shades
of light stone color--the second two shades darker than the first, and
the third darker than the second, in the same proportions--will produce
a beautiful white flower, which if properly shaded, by leaves of the
proper tints, will have a most beautiful appearance. The lighter parts
of all flowers, in Berlin patterns, may be worked in silk; and in many
cases that is a decided improvement; but it should never be introduced
in the leaves; here it would be out of place. We again repeat, beware of
servile copying: try to engage your own judgment in this work, and,
remember, that to become used to think and to discriminate, is one of
the most valuable acquisitions that a young lady can attain.

We have now, we trust, placed before the young student of fancy
needlework, such plain directions, in all things essential to the art,
as cannot fail, if a proper degree of thought and attention is bestowed
upon them, to make her a proficient in this delightful employment. With
one or two additional remarks, we will conclude this portion of our
labors. The young votary of the needle must recollect that, if she
allows her fondness for this accomplishment to draw off her attention
from the more serious or useful business of life, she will act decidedly
wrong and had far better never learn it at all. Another thing to be
especially guarded against, is, not to devote too much time to this, or
any other engagement, at once; the mind and body are both injured, to a
serious extent, by dwelling too long on a single object. Let it never
for a moment be forgotten, relaxation and exercise are indispensible, if
you wish to enjoy good health, or an even and pleasant temper. Again,
take care that you never become so absorbed in the object of your
pursuit, as to allow it to interfere with the calls of friendship,
benevolence, or duty. The young lady who can forget her moral and
domestic duties, in the fascinations of the embroidery frame, gives but
little promise of excellence, in the more advanced stages of life.

Let neatness, and order, characterize all your arrangements.

Cut your silks and wools into proper lengths, and fold them in paper,
writing the color on each, and numbering them according to their shades,
1, 2, 3, &c., beginning with the darkest.

Dispose all your materials so as to come at them without trouble or
inconvenience, and use every possible care to prevent your work from
being spoiled in the performance.

We advise every young lady to pay particular attention to painting and
design; and to render every accomplishment subservient to some high and
moral development of the heart, and of the character.




CHAPTER XII.

KNITTING.


EXPLANATION OF STITCHES.

Before entering upon the immediate subject of this chapter, we wish to
make a few remarks; which, we trust, will be acceptable to our fair
readers.

The art of knitting is supposed to have been invented by the Spanish;
and would doubtless form, in connection with needlework, an agreeable
relaxation, amid the stiff formality and unvarying mechanical movements
which made up, for the most part, the lives of the ancient female
nobility of that peninsula. The Scotch also lay claim to the invention,
but we think upon no sufficient authority. Knitted silk-hose were first
worn in England by Henry VIII., and we are told that a present of a pair
of long knitted silk stockings, of Spanish manufacture, was presented to
the young prince (Edward VI.), by Sir Thomas Gresham, and was graciously
received, as a gift of some importance. Clumsy and unsightly cloth-hose
had been previously worn: and, though we are told by Howel, that Queen
Elizabeth was presented with a pair of black _knitted_ silk stockings,
by Mistress Montague, her silk-woman, yet her maids of honor were not
allowed to wear an article of dress, which her royal pride deemed only
suited to regal magnificence. We believe the first pair of knitted
stockings, ever made in England, were the production of one William
Rider, an apprentice, residing on London Bridge; who, having
accidentally seen a pair of knitted worsted stockings, while detained on
some business, at the house of one of the Italian merchants, made a pair
of a similar kind, which he presented to the Earl of Pembroke, 1564. The
stocking-frame was the invention of Mr. W. Lee, M. A., who had been
expelled from Cambridge, for marrying, in contravention to the statutes
of the university. Himself and his wife, it seems, were reduced to the
necessity of depending upon the skill of the latter, in the art of
knitting, for their subsistence; and as necessity is the parent of
invention, Mr. Lee, by carefully watching the motion of the needles, was
enabled, in 1589, to invent the stocking-frame; which has been the
source of much advantage to others, though there is reason to believe
the contrivance was of little service to the original proprietor. Since
its first introduction, knitting has been applied to a vast variety of
purposes, and has been improved to an extent almost beyond belief. It
has furnished to the blind, the indigent, and almost destitute Irish
cottage girl, the means, pleasure and profit at the same time. Many
ladies, including some in the rank of royalty, have employed their hours
of leisure in the fabrication of articles, the produce of which have
gone to the funds of charity, and have tendered to the alleviation of at
least some of

    "The numerous ills that flesh is heir to;"

and amongst those, the labors of the Hon. Mrs. Wingfield, upon the
estates of Lord de Vesci, in Ireland, ought not to be forgotten.

TO CAST ON THE LOOPS OR STITCHES.--Take the material in the right hand,
and twist it round the little finger, bring it under the next two, and
pass it over the fore finger. Then take the end in the left hand,
(holding the needle in the right,) wrap it round the little finger, and
thence bring it over the thumb, and round the two fore fingers. By this
process the young learner will find that she has formed a loop: she must
then bring the needle under the lower thread of the material, and above
that which is over the fore finger of the right hand under the needle,
which must be brought down through the loop, and the thread which is in
the left hand, being drawn tight, completes the operation. This process
must be repeated as many times as there are stitches cast on.

KNITTING STITCH.--The needle must be put through the cast-on stitch, and
the material turned over it, which is to be taken up, and the under
loop, or stitch, is to be let off. This is called plain stitch, and is
to be continued until one round is completed.

PEARL STITCH.--Called also seam, ribbed, and turn stitch, is formed by
knitting with the material before the needle; and instead of bringing
the needle over the upper thread, it is brought under it.

TO RIB, is to knit plain and pearled stitches alternately. Three plain,
and three pearled, is generally the rule.

TO CAST OVER.--This means bringing the material round the needle,
forward.

NARROWING.--This is to decrease the number of stitches by knitting two
together, so as to form only one loop.

RAISING.--This is to increase the number of stitches, and is effected by
knitting one stitch as usual, and then omitting to slip out the left
hand needle, and to pass the material forward and form a second stitch,
putting the needle under the stitch. Care must be taken to put the
thread back when the additional stitch is finished.

TO SEAM.--Knit a pearl stitch every alternate row.

A ROW, means the stitches from one end of the needle to the other; and
a ROUND, the whole of the stitches on two, three, or more needles. NOTE,
in casting on a stocking, there must always be an odd stitch cast on for
the seam.

TO BRING THE THREAD FORWARD, means to pass it between the needles toward
the person of the operator.

A LOOP STITCH, is made by passing the thread before the needle. In
knitting the succeeding loop, it will take its proper place.

A SLIP STITCH, is made by passing it from one needle to another without
knitting it.

TO FASTEN ON.--This term refers to fastening the end of the material,
when it is necessary to do so during the progress of the work. The best
way is to place the two ends contrarywise to each other, and knit a few
stitches with both.

TO CAST OFF.--This is done by knitting two stitches, passing the first
over the second, and so proceeding to the last stitch, which is to be
made secure by passing thread through it.

WELTS, are rounds of alternate plain and ribbed stitches, done at the
top of stockings, and are designed to prevent their twisting or curling
up.

Sometimes knitting is done in rows of plain and pearl stitches, or in a
variety of neat and fanciful patterns. Scarcely any kind of work is
susceptible of so much variety, or can be applied to so many ornamental
fabrics or uses in domestic economy. The fair votary of this art must be
careful neither to knit too tight or too loose. A medium, which will
soon be acquired by care and practice, is the best, and shows the
various kinds of work to the best advantage. The young lady should take
care to preserve her needles entirely free from rust, and to handle the
materials of her work with as delicate a touch as possible.

Having thus given instructions in the common rudiments of this useful
art, we proceed to give plain directions for some of the most beautiful.


FANCY STITCHES IN KNITTING.

BEE'S STITCH.--In knitting a purse in this stitch, you must cast the
loops on three needles, having twenty on each. The two first rows in
plain knitting. The third is thus worked. Having brought the silk in
front, a stitch is to be slipped, and you knit the next, pulling the one
you slipped over it; you knit the next, and the succeeding one is
pearled; proceed in this manner for one round. The next round you knit
plain; the next is to be executed like the third. Proceed thus in
alternate rounds, and you can introduce two colors, highly contrasted,
knitting six or eight rounds of each.

BERLIN WIRE STITCH.--The stitches cast on must be an even number. Knit
three, four, or five plain rows. Then begin the work by taking off the
first stitch, knit one stitch, knit off two stitches together, and make
a stitch; repeat this process to the end of the row; the next row is to
be knitted plain, and so on alternately.

This work may be done either with large pins and lamb's wool, if it be
intended for shawls, &c., or with fine needles and thread, in which case
it forms a beautiful kind of insertion work for frocks, capes, collars,
and other articles of dress. If it is intended for insertion work, the
number of stitches cast on are eight, and one pattern is formed by each
four stitches.

COMMON PLAIT.--This is employed for muffatees, coverlets, and various
other articles. You cast on the stitches in threes: the number is
unlimited. Knit one row plain, then proceed as follows. Row first, three
plain stitches and three pearled. Second row the same, taking care to
begin where the last is finished, that is, if you ended with plain
stitches, you begin with the pearled. Proceed in the same way with the
third row, and you will have a succession of squares, of inside and
outside knitting, alternately. The fourth row is to be begun with the
same kind of stitches as completed the first row; continue as before,
and the work will be in squares, like those of a chess board. This
stitch is extremely pretty.

CHAIN STITCH.--The number of loops to be cast on is thirteen. Knit the
first two rows plain, and in beginning the third, knit three plain
stitches, and bring the material in front, then pearl seven stitches;
the material is then to be turned back, and you knit the other three
stitches plain. The next row is plain knitting, and then you proceed as
in the third row, and so on alternately, until you have completed
sixteen rows. You then knit three stitches plain, and take off the four
succeeding ones upon a spare pin. The next three stitches from behind
the pin, are to be knitted so as to miss it completely, and the material
is to be drawn so tight, as that the pins may be connected together as
closely as possible. This done you knit the four stitches of the third
pin, which completes the twist. The remaining three stitches are then to
be knitted, and a fresh link begun, by knitting three stitches, pearling
seven, knitting three, and so proceeding for sixteen rows, when another
twist is to be made.

CROW'S-FOOT STITCH.--This stitch may be worked in two ways. If it be for
a shawl, begin at the corner, and raise at the beginning and end of each
row.

In the other method, you cast on any number of stitches that can be
divided by three, and you must cast on one additional for the
commencement. You knit the first row plain and then proceed according to
the following directions: First, knit a stitch. Second, make a stitch.
Third, slip the next. Fourth, knit two stitches together. Fifth, put the
stitch you slipped over the two last knitted; this is to be repeated,
with the exception of the first knitted stitch, to the end of the row.
The next row is composed entirely of pearled stitches. This stitch is
neat and elegant.

DOUBLE KNITTING.--Of this stitch there are three kinds, now in general
use. In executing them proceed as follows. Having cast on any even
number of stitches, knit a few rows in plain knitting; then, for the
double stitch, begin the row by knitting a stitch, and pass the material
in front, between the knitting pins. Then a stitch is to be taken off,
being careful to put the needle inside the loop, and to pass the
material back again. You then knit another stitch, and so proceed to the
end of the row.

For the second kind of double knitting, you cast on an even number of
stitches, as before, and the first stitch is knitted plain; the material
being put twice over the pin. Then, as in the first kind, pass the
material between the needles; a stitch is to be slipped, and the
material passed again behind. This process is repeated in every stitch
to the end of the row. In the next row, you reverse the work, knitting
the stitches that were before slipped, and slipping the knitted ones.
The third kind is very simple, and can be done quicker than the others.
It is worked on the wrong side, and when completed must be turned inside
out; hence it is necessary to knit plain at the sides or ends. The
number of stitches must be even, as in the previous methods. No plain
row is needed; but you commence by putting the material in front of the
pins, and being careful to keep it constantly in that position. Turn
the first stitch, take off the second, and so on alternately, till the
row is finished.

DUTCH COMMON KNITTING.--This is the common knitting stitch, performed in
a more expeditious manner than that in general practised. The needle
filled with stitches, is held in the left hand, and the material also,
which is to be wrapped round the little finger once or twice. It passes
to the needles over the fore finger. To form the loop on the needle held
in the right hand, it is only necessary to put it into the stitch from
behind, and knit off by putting the material round the needle.

EMBOSSED DIAMOND.--You cast on any number of stitches which can be
divided by seven. The first row is plain: for the second, pearl one
stitch, knit five, and pearl two; thus proceed, alternately, to complete
the row: for the third, knit two, pearl three, and knit four, and so
proceed. The fourth row you pearl three, knit one, and pearl six,
alternately. The fifth row is plain knitting. The next row you pearl
two, knit two, pearl five, and so on to the end. Next knit two, pearl
four and knit three, alternately. Next knit six, and pearl one,
successively. Reverse the next, pearling six, and knitting one. Then in
the succeeding row, knit five and pearl three, and knit four in
succession. Next knit three, pearl two, and knit five, alternately. The
succeeding row is plain.

EMBOSSED HEXAGON STITCH.--You can work with any number of stitches you
choose, which can be divided by six. The first row is plain, the next
pearled throughout; the third row is plain. For the first knit four
stitches, and slip two at the end; then pearl a row, taking care to slip
the stitches that were slipped before. Next knit a row slipping the two
stitches as before. The next row is pearled still slipping the two
stitches. The succeeding two rows are knitted and pearled like the
others, and the two stitches are still to be slipped. The next row is
pearled, and you take up all the stitches; then a row is to be knitted
plain, and a row pearled, which completes the pattern. In beginning the
next pattern, you pearl a row, slipping the fifth and sixth stitches, so
that they shall be exactly in the centre of the previously worked
pattern; you then proceed as before.

ELASTIC RIB.--This as its name implies, is the proper stitch for
garters, or any kind of an article which is wanted to fit easily yet
firmly. You are to set on any number of loops you please, and knit one
row plain; the next is pearled, the two next are plain; then one
pearled, and so on alternately to the end.

FANTAIL STITCH.--The application of this stitch is in the preparation of
mitts, gloves, &c., and sometimes it is used for purses, in which it
looks extremely pretty. The material generally employed is cotton, and
you begin by setting on any even number of stitches you require. A loop
is made, by throwing the cotton over the pin; you then knit a loop, and
make and knit alternately; each of the two last are knitted plain, and
you narrow the commencement and conclusion of each row, at the second
and third loops, until you have reduced it to the number originally cast
on. The usual number of stitches cast on is fourteen.

FRENCH STITCH.--You set on the loops in fours, and must have two over.
The first stitch is pearled, then turn the thread back, and knit two
stitches together. Form a new stitch by bringing the thread in front,
and knit a stitch; the thread is again to be brought in front, and the
last stitch pearled, which completes the pattern. The next row is begun
in a similar manner, the thread is turned back, two stitches are knitted
together at the end, the thread is turned, and you knit the last stitch.

GERMAN KNITTING.--You cast on twenty-one stitches, and proceed as
follows. First row, the material is to be passed forward, one stitch
slipped, then knit one, and pass the slipped one over; three stitches
are then to be knitted, and two taken as one; again pass the material
forward, and knit one stitch. Second row, the same, except that when in
the first you knitted three stitches, knit one; and when one, you knit
three. For the third row, you pass the material as before, and slip one
stitch, then two are taken as one, and the slipped one is passed over
again; repeat this, except that in taking two stitches together, you
knit one, and pass the slipped one over; finish by knitting two
stitches.

HONEYCOMB STITCH.--This is also often used for shawls. It is knitted as
follows. You knit the first stitch, and pass the other to make a loop
over the needle. Two stitches are then knitted together, and you thus
continue making the loops, and knitting two stitches together, until you
have completed the row. You knit every second row thus; the alternate
ones plain.

HERRING-BONE BAG STITCH.--You cast on the stitches by fours, and the
material used is silk. Knit two plain stitches, and then make a large
one, by turning the silk twice over the needle; after which, knit two
stitches together, and repeat this, until you have completed the work.

IMITATION NET-WORK STITCH.--You set on any number of stitches you
please, but you must have no odd ones. The first row is plain knitting.
The next row you commence by bringing the wool upon the first pin, and
twisting it round it by bringing it over from behind, and putting it
behind again. You are then to knit two loops together, and the pin must
be put first into the one nearest to you, and the wool is to be twisted
round the pin as before. Then again, knit two together, and so on to the
end. Each row is done in the same manner.

KNIT HERRING-BONE STITCH.--Any number of stitches you please may be cast
on, observing to have three for each pattern, and one over at each end.
The first row must be plain: then, in beginning the second, take off the
first stitch, and knit two together in pearl stitch. Next make one, by
passing the material before, and knitting one, pearl two stitches
together, and make and knit a stitch as before. Every row is the same.

LACE WAVE STITCH.--The number of stitches must be even. The first stitch
is to be slipped; then knit one, and make one, by casting the material
over the pin. Narrow, by knitting two stitches together, and again knit
a stitch; then make one, and again narrow; and so on till you complete
the row. The next row is done plain. The third row is as follows: two
stitches knitted plain; make one stitch, and narrow two in one; then
knit one stitch; make and narrow, as before to the end; then knit a row
plain. For the fifth row, knit three stitches plain, and thus proceed as
in the third row. The sixth row is done plain; and the seventh one
commences by knitting four stitches plain, and then proceeding as
before. The eighth row is plain; and the ninth is begun by knitting five
plain stitches, and proceed as above; then knit two rows plain, and the
pattern is complete. This can be continued to any length required.

MOSS STITCH.--This is easily done. Cast on any even number of loops, and
for the first row, the first loop is slipped, the material brought in
front; the stitch is pearled, and repeat so to the end. The next row is
so worked, that the stitches knit in the proceeding row, must be pearled
in this.

OPEN HEM.--The number of stitches is unlimited, but they must be capable
of being divided by four. At the beginning of each row you slip the
first stitch, and knit the second. Then make a stitch by putting the
cotton over the pin; knit two loops together; knit one stitch, make a
stitch, and so proceed. You must have very fine pins and sewing cotton.

OPEN CROSS STITCH.--This is done in the following manner. Two colors are
to be employed, and the first row of each is done in pearl stitch. In
working the second row of each, the following is the order of procedure:
first, knit a stitch: second, make a stitch; third, slip one; fourth,
two are to be knitted together, and the one slipped is to be drawn over
the knitted ones; thus you proceed to the end of the row. The two next
are to be commenced with the other color; and thus you work two rows
with each color, successively. The fresh color is always to cross from
beneath the last one, or otherwise a hole would be left in the work. In
the making of shawls, this stitch is often adopted, and it looks well,
but, of course, requires to be bordered with some other pattern.

ORNAMENTAL LADDER STITCH.--The stitches are to be set on in elevens.
Commence by knitting two stitches plain, then knit two together, and
repeat the same, drawing the first loop over the second; proceed thus to
the end. Commence the second row by pearling two stitches; pass the
material over the pin twice; again pearl two stitches, and so proceed to
the end. In the next row, knit two; pass the material round the pin
twice, knit two, and so continue. Thus you proceed with alternate rows
of knitted and pearled stitches, being careful to slip the stitches made
by throwing the material round the pin, without knitting them.

PINE APPLE STITCH.--For a bag you must cast on thirty-six loops on three
needles, and proceed thus: First row, knit one plain, raise one by
throwing the silk over the pin, knit one plain, then raise, knit two
plain, you knit the next two together, drawing the last loop over the
first; you will then have six loops. In the second row, knit the first
raised loop, then raise, knit the next one plain, then raise, knit plain
till you come to the next raising, and omit knitting the two together as
in the first row. Third row, you knit plain to the raising, and then
proceed as in the first row. You knit the fourth as the second; and so
proceed alternately, until you have twelve rows. Then in the stitches
you had previously narrowed, you must raise, and introduce a bead upon
each plain loop, with a thread, and again raise. Where you had
previously raised, you must narrow with the bead you have upon the silk.
In this manner proceed raising and narrowing alternately, until you have
twelve rows as before. You then reverse, and again work as in the first
part of the pattern.

PLAIN OPEN STITCH.--The stitches set on must be an even number. The two
first rows are plain. Then commence the third row, by knitting one
stitch; pass the material in front, and form a new stitch, by knitting
two together. This is to be repeated, until you come to the last stitch,
which must be knit. Then knit two plain rows and proceed as before.

PORCUPINE STITCH.--This is proper for a purse, and when properly
executed, is extremely pretty. You cast on, upon each of three needles,
thirty-six loops, and knit one plain round. For the next, you knit four
stitches: and, having brought the silk forward, knit one loop: this will
form the middle stitch of the pattern. Then, again bringing the silk
forward, knit fourteen stitches; after which, slip one, and leaving the
under part, knit two together, and draw the stitches, last slipped, over
it. Then knit four stitches, as at the commencement, and so proceed for
six rounds, increasing before and after each middle stitch. You knit
till within one of where you decreased. The stitch thus left is to be
slipped, and you then knit two together, and draw the slipped loop over
it. You are then to knit one plain round, and the next row is also
plain, except the loops which are over the middle stitches, where you
are to insert a bead, by bringing it through the stitches. You next knit
a round plain, and must be careful to keep the beads on the outside of
the purse, or rather in the inside while knitting, as this purse is done
the wrong side out. You are to knit, until you come within one loop of
the bead, which must be slipped, and you knit the next two together. You
are then to increase six rounds on each side of the stitch decreased as
in the proceeding pattern, which will make that the middle or bead
stitch. The material should be done in middle sized purse silk, on
needles, No. 18.

ROUGH-CAST STITCH.--Any odd number of stitches may be cast on. Each row
is begun with a plain stitch, and the others are plain and pearled
alternately. This is very suitable for borders, as it is firm and looks
neat.

WAVE KNITTING.--This is proper for a pin-cushion, and looks extremely
neat. Commence by casting on seventy-nine loops. Then proceed as
follows. First row, knit four loops plain, pearl one, knit nine plain,
and repeat to the end of the row, finishing with four plain loops.
Commence the second row with three pearled stitches, knit three plain,
pearl seven, repeat as before. Third row, knit two plain, pearl five,
knit five plain, repeat. Fourth row, pearl one, knit seven plain, pearl
three, repeat. Fifth row, pearl nine, knit one plain, pearl nine, and
repeat to the end. This finishes the pattern.




CHAPTER XIII.

KNITTING.


EXAMPLES IN KNITTING.

A BIROCHE.--The stitch is very simple. You bring the wool forward, slip
one, and knit two together. This elegant cushion is made up of sixteen
narrow rows, and sixteen broad stripes, which decrease gradually toward
the centre. It may be made in double German wool, or other material,
with No. 19 ivory or wooden pins. Cast on ninety stitches, and knit two
turns; then in gold color three turns, and again two in black: this
forms the narrow stripe. Then form the broad stripe thus: knit two
stitches, and turn; then knit two of the black, and turn; this must be
continued, taking every time two additional stitches of the black, until
you are within two stitches of the top, and then turn. You will now find
the wool has descended to the wide part of the stripe. You then again
commence a narrow stripe, and so go on, until the whole is completed.
When the last wide stripe is finished, knit it to the first narrow
stripe, and make up the biroche in any manner you please.

A BABY'S CAP.--Cast on 240 stitches, on three pins; knit twelve rounds,
and be sure you pearl every alternate stitch: in the succeeding round
you must pearl the stitches which were left plain in the preceding ones.
Then take in eighty stitches, namely; one at every fourth, which will
form a full border; then proceed to knit the cap thus: one row plain,
the next open, then three plain, and twenty-four double knitting; again
knit three rows plain, one open, repeat the three plain rows, again
repeat the double knitting, and the plain and open rows as before; you
next proceed to form the hinder part of the cap, by casting on
twenty-four stitches at each end of the pins; knit forty-eight rows of
double knitting, take in to the size of the crown, and knit three rows
plain, one open, and repeat the three plain rows; then fasten off at
top, unite the open space at the back, and repeat the plain and open
rows as before. You form the crown, by casting on sixteen loops; then
increase a loop at each end, for sixteen rows; then knit sixteen, and
decrease as you increased, and thus the circle becomes regularly formed.

BABY'S HOOD.--Use No. 18 needles, and double German wool; cast on fifty
stitches, and knit eighty rows plain; roll up sixty, to form the front.
Three inches of the cast off part are to be sewed together, and the rest
is to be drawn up for the crown. Then cast on fifty stitches to form the
foundation of the hood, and knit forty rows plain. Line with white silk,
and trim with satin ribbon.

BABY'S SHOE.--Work with two colors, in stripes. You cast on twenty-eight
stitches, _in blue_, and knit one row plain; then knit a plain row in
white, adding one stitch at the end to form the heel, and turn; then a
similar row in blue, to increase and turn, repeat this without
increasing, and changing the colors each time, until you have ten
stripes. Then knit one row in blue, and turn, casting off seventeen
stitches. You begin from the heel. The remaining thirteen stitches are
knitted with white; turn; knit a row with blue; turn: and so continue,
until you have five rows of one color, and four of the other. The
thirteen stitches are then to be done in blue, and seventeen to
correspond, are to be added; turn: this side is finished like the other,
decreasing from the heel. You then sew up the heel and toe, so as to
form a shoe. You are then, with four needles, to pick up the stitches
round the ankle and fore foot, putting an equal number upon each of the
three needles, and knit five rows plain; make a stitch by bringing the
wool forward, then slip one; knit the next two, and pass the slip-stitch
over them; again bring the wool forward, and repeat the process for one
round: knit eighteen rows, five plain, four pearled; repeat and finish,
bringing the wool forward, knitting two together; then knit two rows
plain, and cast off. You must use No. 14 needles, and double German
wool.

A BEAUTIFUL FRINGE AND BORDER.--This can be applied to a variety of
useful purposes. It is executed as follows. The number of stitches must
be even, and of any depth you deem desirable. Begin, by making a stitch,
laying the material over the needle; put it through two loops, and knit
them as one; repeat to the end of the row; thus continue to knit as many
rows as you please, and when the stripe is of sufficient length, fasten
off, letting from four to ten stitches fall off the needle to unravel
for the fringe.

A COMFORTER.--On a moderate sized pin, cast on forty stitches; and in
knitting, carry the wool twice round the pin for each stitch. The
comforter is to be done in double knitting, and may be finished with a
fringe and border at the end. Without the fringe, you will require a
quarter of a pound of six-thread untwisted lamb's wool; for the fringe a
little more will be required.

ANOTHER COMFORTER.--You are to cast on thirty stitches, and knit plain
sixty-four ribs, knitting them backwards and forwards; then take
twenty-two stitches from the middle of the side, and you will have
twenty-one left one each end. Form a chest-piece, by knitting as before,
twenty-two ribs, and fasten off: you have only to sew up the end, and it
is done.

ZEPHYR.--This is a light shawl for a baby, and may be made either of a
half-handkerchief form, or a square. Cast on about 130 loops, and knit
in French or honey-comb stitch, which you like; or any other pretty
pattern you prefer, as embossed hexagon, &c. You may add a fringe and
border, which gives to the zephyr a rich and finished appearance.

AN OVER-SHOE.--These are useful to wear in the house, or to slip over a
satin shoe, when occasion requires. The number of stitches to be cast on
is thirty-four. Knit a square, plain, which is to be doubled, and sewn
up on one side, to the heel; then sew up three inches for the instep,
and form the toe by puckering in the end.

A KNITTED MUFF, IN IMITATION OF SABLE.--You cast on seventy or eighty
stitches. Knit the first three rows plain; then, for the fourth row,
bring the wool forward, and taking two stitches at the back, knit them;
repeat to the end: these four must be repeated, until the piece is about
half a yard long, taking care that the shading is as correct as
possible. You must here use No. 19 needles, and double German wool. The
shades required are four, and you begin with the lightest, proceeding to
the darkest, and then reversing them. The muff must be stuffed, and
lined with silk.

A STRONG KNITTED PURSE.--Any number of stitches, that can be divided by
three, will do. First and third row: The wool is to be brought forward,
then slip one, knit two, and pass over them the slip stitch; repeat
second and fourth row plain. Third and fifth row: knit two, before
commencing the pattern; the holes will then fall in a diagonal
direction: It will require to be well stretched.

BAREGE KNITTING, FOR SHAWLS.--In this kind of work, you commence with
any number of stitches you require: and, after knitting one row plain,
you begin the second, by knitting three stitches; then, bring the wool
forward, and knit three together, taking them off at the back; again you
bring the wool forward, and knit three, as before. The third row is
pearled; and the fourth is the second repeated, only beginning by
knitting three stitches together. Fifth row, the same as the third; and
thus proceed with any number of rows you choose. You may introduce any
patterns in flowers, &c., you may desire, by breaking off the ground
color, and fastening on that which is designed for the pattern, by means
of a slip knot, made at the end of the wool. All flowers, &c., must be
done in plain knitting.

CHECKED PATTERNS.--Any number of stitches may be cast on, that can be
divided by six. Then knit the first three rows three pearl stitches, and
three plain; second three rows, knit three stitches plain, and three
pearl. This pattern may be worked for children's socks, bags, mats, (if
done in coarse materials,) &c.

CLOSE STITCH, FOR A WAISTCOAT.--This is to be done in two colors, and
cast on any odd number of stitches. First and fifth row, with one color;
knit one, and slip one, in succession. Second and sixth row, with the
same color; knit one, bring the wool forward, and slip one; pass the
wool back, knit one, repeat. The third is the first reversed, and the
fourth is worked exactly as the second, omitting the first stitch.

PINE APPLE PURSE.--The material is purse twist, and you will require two
colors; one skein of green, and one and a half of orange. Cast on 159
stitches, and proceed as follows. Knit the first row, and turn it, then
knit two rows, and again turn. To have ten points you must narrow and
widen alternately every seven stitches. Proceed in this way with the
green twist for fifteen rounds; then with the orange knit one plain row
and turn, knit seven rows as before, knit one plain row and turn, then
reverse the narrowings, so as to take up the loops at the beginning of
every row of points, and make a loop on each side: you are to have eight
rows of points. You make no loops in the second row, but having counted
when you have finished the points, you seam in the first row of green
and reverse the narrowings without taking up the loops, proceed to knit
twelve rows; after which, you must narrow until you have but four loops
on each pin, then knit the stalks, and narrow off.

STAR, WITH EIGHT POINTS.--This is proper for the bottom of a bag or
purse. In working it, proceed according to the following directions. You
work with five needles, on each of four of which you cast on two
stitches, eight in whole, knit one plain round. Then, first row, raise,
knit one, raise, knit one, and put on one bead at every knitted loop.
Second row, you knit a plain round. Third row, raise, knit two plain,
raise, two plain; the raising is at the beginning and middle of each
needle; and you thus proceed, until you have fifty beads on a needle,
for a bag, and eighteen for a purse. To take off the points, proceed as
follows: first row, raise one, knit one, raise one, slip one off needle
as in knitting, knit one, and draw the one not knitted over it; knit
plain, and put on beads until you come to the middle of the needle; thus
proceed with each pin, and the star will be completed.

KNEE CAPS.--You commence with casting on eleven loops, and knitting
eight rounds; then begin to raise every alternate round until you have
forty-seven loops on the pins, knit eleven rounds plain, and then
narrow until you have reduced the loops to eleven. Take off.

KNITTING FOOTING.--The material is fine cotton, and you cast eleven
stitches. Knit one row plain. Second row, knit one, make one, knit two
together, knit three plain, make one, knit two together knit three
plain. Third row, is the second row reversed; the fourth is the same as
the second; and you thus proceed with each row, alternately, for any
length you please. A bag knitted the same way, and put over blue or
crimson silk, looks extremely handsome. The material for a bag is fine
worsted, and you may cast on any number of stitches that can be divided
by eleven, taking care to have one additional stitch for each
twenty-two; that is, for four elevens, cast on forty-six.

DOUBLE NIGHTCAP.--You will find five needles are required. You must cast
on two stitches on each of four needles, and in the first row increase
two, and in the second one plain stitch in each. In the third row, the
centre stitch on each needle must be seamed, and you must increase on
each side of it every other row, until you have attained the width
required. You then knit the fourth and every succeeding row plain, until
the cap is of a sufficient length, say twenty-four to twenty-eight
inches, then decrease the first row, and make the other end to
correspond with the one first knitted.

DOTTED KNITTING, FOR BABY'S SHOES, &C.--Cast on and knit as many rows as
you desire, knitting one stitch plain, and the next pearled. Begin every
other row with a pearled stitch. An odd number of stitches are required,
and No. 8 needles.

KNITTED FRINGE.--This may be made of any material deemed most suitable
for the purposes to which it is to be applied. Cast on eight stitches.
First knit two, then make one by bringing the cotton round the needle,
and knitting it when it occurs in the next row; then knit two stitches
together, knit one, make one as before, knit two together, knit eight,
and so proceed to the end of the row. When you have knitted as many rows
as you require, cast off five stitches and leave three, to be
unravelled, for the fringe. They may be knitted in two or more colors,
taking care to knit them in equal spaces; that is, with an equal number
of stitches in each color.

GENTLEMAN'S TRAVELLING CAP.--You first cast on an even number of
stitches, and thus proceed; the first row is plain; then slip off the
first stitch in each row, and make one, by bringing the material in
front; then slip a stitch the contrary way, knit the next, and so
proceed to the end of the row: you commence the next by slipping a
stitch as before; then knit two stitches together to the last, which is
to be knitted plain: repeat these rows alternately.

HERRING-BONE PURSE.--The number of stitches must be so as to be divided
by four. The silk is to be brought forward, then slip one, knit one, and
bring the slip stitch over it. Knit one, again bring the silk forward,
pearl one, and so repeat. This purse should be knitted with second sized
netting silk, No. 13.

HALF HANDKERCHIEF.--This is extremely pretty, when properly executed.
Begin with one stitch to form the point, and knit as many rows,
increasing one each row as is required to give you seven loops upon the
pin. You must increase always at the same end: then commence the
pattern. Make one stitch, slip one, and knit two stitches together,
putting the slipped stitch over the two knitted as one. Repeat this
until you have got to four stitches from the end; then again make a
stitch, and knit the remainder plain. The next row is to be done in
pearl stitch, and the succeeding one as the first pattern. Every row of
pearl stitch must be increased one, and the three last stitches are to
be knitted plain. This handkerchief must be one yard and a quarter long
on the straight side. When completed, fasten off.

HABIT SHIRT.--These are worn under a shawl, and are extremely
comfortable: they protect the chest from cold. The material most proper
for them is floss wool, and they should be knitted with steel pins. You
knit the front first, and begin by casting on as many loops as will form
the length required. As it is necessary that one end should be a good
deal more sloped than the other, you must be careful to increase at the
end most sloped, at each end of the row; but at the other, you are only
to increase at the end, and not at the beginning: having knitted one of
the fronts, knit the other to match it, and then begin the back.
Commence at the bottom, or narrow part of the waist, and increase at
each end of every row, until it is wide enough to reach from one
shoulder to the other, and then decrease at both ends of each row for
the neck. You then finish the centre stitches, and knit up first on one
side and then the other, decreasing each row, until a proper hollow is
obtained. You then knit the collar straight, and of any depth you
please. Make up, by sewing the various parts together, and set on a
ribbon to the back, to tie round the waist, and another to secure it at
the throat.

HARLEQUIN QUILT, WITH TUCKS.--This is done in double knitting stitch,
with six threads fleecy. The pieces are six inches square. Each square
consists of about 24 stitches, and they are to be sewn together with a
tuft of wool, black or white, at each corner. The square should be
knitted in at least three colors, including white; in a quilt one yard
and a half square, there will be 225 pieces, 113 of which should be
white. Make the tufts as follows: wind four-thread fleecy about 12 times
round a grooved wooden mesh, one inch in width: then slip a coarse
thread in the groove, and tie the wool quite tight, but taking care that
an end is left to it, which can be drawn through and fastened to the
quilt. The loops of wool are to be cut through on the other side of the
mesh; after which it is to be combed and dressed as neatly as possible.

PATTERN FOR A LIGHT SCARF.--Cast on the number of stitches required upon
No. 18 needles, and any kind of material you choose; three-threads
fleecy is generally preferred. Knit one plain stitch, then two together,
and so on alternately, to the end of the row: each succeeding one is but
a repetition of the first: it may be done in stripes, with various
colors.

PLAIN KNITTED MUFFATEES.--For these you will require four needles. On
three of these cast on an equal number of stitches, according to the
size required, and knit each round three pearl and three plain: finish
with one plain and two pearl rows.

STOCKINGS.--Cast on first size 73, second 85, third 91, fourth 99, fifth
109, sixth 133. Then knit rounds to the commencement of the narrowings,
40, 52, 54, 56, 60, and 74, respectively, according to the sizes given
above. The narrowings in the leg are according to the size, 8, 10, 12,
13, 14, and 21. After which you knit 18, 20, 25, 27, 30, or 45 rounds to
the heel, which is to be formed in the following manner. The stitches
are to be divided in half, taking care to have the seam stitch for the
middle, and the heel is to be knitted in alternate turns of plain and
pearled stitches. The length, of course, varies in proportion to the
size, being 12 turns for the first and second, 13 for the third, 14 for
the fourth, 15 for the fifth, and 20 for the sixth. The heel is finished
by knitting the nine middle stitches in rows, the same as the heel, and
taking up one of the others with the last loop of each row, till all is
taken off. There will thus be nine stitches when the heel is finished.
Having got thus far, you proceed to form the foot as follows. You take
up sixteen on each side of the heel, in the second row, and taking them
up, you make a seam on each side of the instep, knitting another stitch
in the loop under the first and last, which prevents holes in the
corners, that would otherwise occur. Then narrow every second round on
the heel sides of the seam until the number of stitches are the same as
those in the instep, or what is commonly called the fore foot needle.
You will have for the instep 28, 32, 34, 40, or 46, as the case may be;
and the rounds between the heel and toe narrowings, will be 14, 18, 23,
26, 30, and 34, respectively; and the narrowings for the feet will be 6,
8, 8, 8, 9, and 10, on each side, according to the measurement given.
You begin the toe by narrowing double at the seams, leaving only the
seam stitch between, and narrowing twice with three, and twice with two
rounds left between each narrowing: then narrow twice, leaving but one
round between, and then every round until sixteen stitches only are
left. Finish by putting the two needles having stitches on them
together. And when two stitches are done in this manner, cast them off,
the first over the last, until the whole is taken off the needles. It
should be noted, that the stitches in the heel vary with the size of the
stocking, and are as follows: first size 29, second 33, third 33, fourth
37, fifth 41, and sixth 45.

Some workers take off the heel, in the same manner as the toe is here
directed to be finished.

OPEN-WORK STOCKINGS.--On each needle cast on 52 stitches with fine
cotton, knit the welts and raise one stitch for the seam. When you
arrive at the narrowings, narrow every eighth row, and when you have 38
stitches on each needle, cease, and knit until the article is
completed; then take half the stitches to form the heel, knit 23 loops,
and narrow on each side of the seam for three rows. In forming the heel,
narrow every row once the fourth loop from the seam, and then the loops
must be taken up, the end one as close as possible. Take three stitches
from each side of the fore foot needle to the other, and knit a round
plain; after which, widen every fifth stitch on both sides of the heel.
Alternate rows of the heel needles are then to be narrowed until only 36
loops remain on each. The stitches to be narrowed are the fifth and
sixth from the ends. Knit the feet of a proper length, and then narrow
at the ends of the needles every other row, until only ten remain on
each; narrow every row until you have only three, which you cast off in
the usual manner. The open pattern is produced by knitting every fifth
round thus: take two stitches in one, and bring the cotton in front of
the needle, that it may form a stitch before taking the succeeding two
into one. The more open you desire the work to be, the fewer stitches
and the finer needles you will require.

A NIGHT STOCKING.--This is easily done: cast on 54 stitches on large
needles, and pearl every other stitch, narrowing gradually toward the
end.

SOCKS.--These are very useful articles, and are easy of execution. In
the first size there are 49 stitches, in the second 55, and in the third
85; they have 16, 23, or 24 turns to the heel, in which there are 25,
29, or 43 stitches, as the size may require. The instep has 24, 25, or
42 stitches; and the length of the heel is 10, 12, or 14 turns. The
length of the foot between the narrowings, is 10, 15, and 28 rounds.

CORNER FOR A SHAWL.--This, if properly executed, according to the
directions, looks extremely handsome. Begin by casting on two loops, to
form the point; knit them, and proceed as follows. First row, make a
loop, knit the two original ones together, make a loop; you will then
have three loops upon the pin; knit four additional rows in plain and
pearled alternately, increasing a stitch at the beginning and end of
each row, and then on the fifth row you will have eleven stitches. In
the next row commence the pattern thus. Sixth row begin with six plain
stitches, pearl one, knit six plain. Seventh row plain knitting. Eighth
row, knit six plain, pearl one, knit two together, pearl one, knit two
together, pearl one, knit six plain. Ninth row plain. Tenth, knit six
plain, pass the material in front to make a stitch, knit two together,
again make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make
a stitch, knit six plain. Eleventh row plain. Twelfth, knit six plain,
knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two
together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together,
knit six plain. Thirteenth row plain. Fourteenth, knit six plain, pearl
three, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, knit two together,
pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, pearl three, knit six
plain. Fifteenth row plain. Sixteenth, knit six plain, knit two
together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together,
make a stitch, pearl five, make a stitch, knit two together, make a
stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, knit six plain.
Seventeenth row plain. Eighteenth, six plain, pearl three, knit two
together, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three,
knit five plain, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make a
stitch, knit two together, pearl three, knit six plain. Nineteenth row
plain. Twentieth, knit six plain, knit two together, pearl three, knit
two together, make a stitch, pearl four, make a stitch, knit two
together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together,
make a stitch, pearl four, make a stitch, knit two together, pearl
three, knit two together, knit six plain. The twenty-first row is plain,
and you then decrease as you increased, knitting the twenty-second row
as the twentieth, and so proceed until you have two loops on the pin.
The square is then complete.

BORDER FOR THE SHAWL.--Having finished the corner, pick up the
twenty-one stitches on one side, and knit one row plain; the second row,
knit two plain, three pearled, three plain, again pearl three, then
three plain, pearl three, knit four plain. The third row knit plain; the
fourth row, pearl one stitch, knit one, pearl one, knit two together,
make a stitch, pearl three together, knit one, pearl one, knit two
together, make a stitch, pearl four, knit four plain. Fifth row plain.
Sixth row knit one, pearl one, knit one, pearl one, knit two together,
make a stitch, pearl three, knit one, pearl one, knit one, pearl one,
knit two together, make a stitch, knit six plain. Seventh row plain.
Eighth row, same as the sixth. Ninth plain. Tenth as the fourth.
Eleventh plain. Twelfth as the second, repeat the first three rows, and
re-commence the pattern. The shawl must be knitted on the same sized
pins as the border and corner, and must have as many loops as there are
stitches in the length of the border. The border and corner may be done
in two colors, which must harmonize well with each other, and form a
good contrast to the shawl itself.




CHAPTER XIV.

NETTING.


EXPLANATION OF STITCHES.

Netting is another employment, to which the attention of the fair has
been directed from the remotest times. Specimens of Egyptian network,
performed three thousand years since, are still in existence; and, from
that time, the art, in connection with that of spinning flax, was there
carried to its highest state of perfection. With these specimens, are
preserved some of the needles anciently used in netting. They are to be
found in one of the museums at Berlin. The Egyptian nets were made of
flax, and were so fine and delicate, that according to Pliny, "they
could pass through a small ring, and a single person could carry a
sufficient number of them to surround a whole wood. Julius Lupus, while
governor of Egypt, had some of these nets, each string of which
consisted of one hundred and fifty threads." But even this fineness was
far exceeded by the thread of a linen corslet, presented by Amasis, king
of Egypt, to the Rhodians, the threads of which, as we learn from the
same authority, were each composed of three hundred and sixty-five
fibres. Herodotus also mentions a corslet of a similar texture.

In connection with other elegant female accomplishments, netting has
continued to claim the attention of the ladies of Europe, in every
advanced state of civilization, and, in the present day, is cultivated
with considerable success. Netting was a favorite employment of the late
Queen Charlotte, during the latter years of her life.

[Illustration]

PLAIN NETTING.--Take the mesh in the left hand, (having previously made
a long loop with twine, and fixed it to any convenient support,) between
the two first fingers and the thumb. The netting needle must be threaded
with the material, and fastened by a knot to the long loop before spoken
of, and the mesh must be held up as close as possible to this knot
_under_ the twine. The silk is to be held in the right hand between the
fore finger and the thumb and must be passed under and around the left
hand, so that the material may be formed into a slack loop, passing over
all the fingers, except the little one. In this position, the silk must
be held between the upper side of the mesh and the left-hand thumb, and
the needle must be passed back, round the pin or mesh, allowing the
material to form a larger loop, so as to include the little finger. The
needle will thus be brought round, in front of the mesh, and must pass
under the first loop, between the mesh and the fingers, and thus through
the loop called the foundation loop, and thence over that portion of the
material which goes backward for the purpose of forming the second loop.
The needle must be kept in its position, till the right hand is so
brought round as to be able to pull it through, and then the needle
being drawn out and held in the right hand, the worker must disengage
all the fingers of the left except the last, which is to retain its hold
of the second loop, which was formed by passing the material round it.
By means of this hold, retained by the little finger, the material is to
be drawn to the mesh, and the knot thus formed be drawn tight to the
foundation. This process is to be repeated, until a sufficient number of
stitches are formed as are necessary, according to the width of the net
desired. As the mesh is filled, some of the loops must be suffered to
drop off; and when the row is completed, it must be drawn out, and a row
of loops will be found suspended from the foundation by their respective
knots, and moving freely onwards. The work is then to be turned over,
which will cause the ends of the rows to be reversed; and in netting a
second row, it will be done as before from left to right. In commencing
the second, and all the succeeding rows, the mesh must be so placed as
to come up close to the bottom of the preceding row or loops, and the
former process with the needle must be repeated. It will be needful, to
have a sufficient quantity of material always wound on the needle, or
otherwise it will not move freely round, as it is indispensible it
should do.

BEAD STITCH.--To execute this stitch properly, requires care, but it is
very ornamental. Beads of all kinds, may be introduced. In order to net
with beads, you must procure a long taper darning needle: the stitch is
as follows; string a bead upon the thread or silk you net with: this
bead is to be brought to the front of the mesh, and held there until the
knot is made; at the back of the mesh, bring the needle and thread,
passing the point through the bead which is upon the front of the mesh.
The needle and thread are then to be drawn through it, by which means
the bead will be brought quite up to the knot just made. By working the
beads in this manner, they will be kept stationary upon the thread, and
so remain in their places, and impart much beauty to the work.

[Illustration]

DIAMOND NETTING.--This kind of netting is easy of execution, and looks
extremely pretty. It is done by making every other stitch a loop stitch,
in order to effect which, the silk must be put twice round the mesh,
instead of once, as in plain netting. Treble diamond netting is similar,
only the process is rather more difficult in execution. After netting
three rows plain, at the beginning, the first row is to be composed of
one loop stitch, and three plain stitches, repeated until the row is
finished: then in working the second row, commence with a plain stitch,
then follow with a loop, then two plain stitches, and repeat as before.
For the third row begin with one or two plain stitches, make a loop,
then net a stitch plain, and repeat the two loops and the plain stitch
to the end of the row. For the fourth row you net three stitches in
plain netting, then make a loop stitch, and repeat as in previous rows.
An attention to this arrangement, will soon enable the young student in
net-work, to net in as many stitches as may seem desirable.

[Illustration]

DIAMOND NETTING, OF FIVE STITCHES.--Commence with a long loop, then net
five loops plain, repeat to the end of the row, finishing with a long
loop. Second row, begin with a plain loop, make a loose stitch to meet
the short loop in the previous row, and withdraw the mesh before
commencing the next loop, work four loops plain, and so proceed. Third
row is commenced as the second: withdraw the mesh as before, and work
three plain loops. Begin the fourth row with a plain stitch, work a
long loop, then a loose stitch; withdraw the mesh, and work two plain
stitches; again withdraw the mesh, work a plain stitch, and so proceed
to the end. The fifth is begun with two plain stitches; then form a
loose stitch, withdraw the mesh, work one plain loop, again withdraw the
mesh, and finish with two plain stitches. The sixth row commences with
three stitches plain, then make one loose stitch, and finish with two
plain ones. For the seventh row, commence as in the last case; make a
long loop, and finish with two plain stitches. The eighth row begins
with three stitches in plain netting; withdraw the mesh, net one stitch
plain, make a loose stitch, again withdraw the mesh, and finish the row
with a plain stitch. In doing the ninth row net two stitches plain,
withdraw the mesh, net two more plain stitches, make a loose stitch,
again withdraw the mesh, and finish with a plain stitch. The tenth row
is begun as the last, but instead of the loose stitch, net a plain one,
then make the loose stitch, and withdraw the mesh. The mesh proper for
this kind of netting is No. 18, and the silk called second-sized purse
twist, is the best adapted for this kind of work.

[Illustration]

DOTTED NETTING.--This is easily done. Cast on the number of loops you
require, and proceed as follows. Begin with long loop, in which you next
increase two stitches; repeat to the end of the row. None of the rows
are at all varied; and you must carefully preserve its uniform
appearance, as in that consists its principal beauty.

SHADED SILK NETTING.--This is beautiful, when the shades blend well
together. Of course, each row must be worked in one shade, and the next
needful must be matched with the utmost care. It is not possible to
give minute rules on such a subject: but, in this, as in other things,
practice will insure success.

[Illustration]

GRECIAN NETTING.--This is beautiful, and should be worked with fine
silk, and with two meshes, No. 9 and 18; one plain row is to be netted
with the large mesh, and then in the next row employ the small one. The
silk is twisted round the fingers as in plain netting, and the needle
must pass through the finger loop into the first stitch, and thence into
the second. Then let the second be drawn through the first, and the
first through the second, finishing the stitch by releasing your fingers
and pulling the material tight. The succeeding stitch is a small loop,
that appears to cross the stitches twisted together. These three kinds
of stitches form the pattern, and are to be repeated until the work is
completed. Grecian netting may be employed for a variety of purposes,
and you can, of course, vary both the material and the meshes as best
accords with the design you are intending to accomplish.

[Illustration]

FRENCH GROUND NET.--You must have an even number of loops on the
foundation, then proceed. First row, plain stitches and long loops,
alternately; second row plain; make a loose stitch, and repeat. Begin
the fourth with a loose stitch, net one plain, repeat to the end;
commence the fifth row by netting one plain loop, make a long loop, and
the little loop as in the third row; in coming after the last long loop,
the little loop must be exchanged for a plain stitch.

ANOTHER KIND OF HONEYCOMB NETTING.--Use a mesh No. 17, and set on an
even number of stitches. Net the first row plain, having the silk round
the mesh twice. For the second row you put the silk once round the mesh
and net the second loop, having previously half twisted it. Then net the
first loop plain, net the fourth as the second, again net a stitch
plain, and thus proceed with plain and half-twisted stitches,
alternately. The third row is the same as the first, and the fourth as
the second. These kinds of netting are very pretty for purses, bags,
&c., and may be done in different colors if the purse is worked in four
or five rows of plain, and the same number of honeycomb netting.

[Illustration]

HONEYCOMB NETTING.--You are to make an even number of loops, putting the
silk twice round a No. 18 mesh, for the second row net with the silk
once round the mesh, and put the first stitch through the second at the
back, and net it; then the second stitch is pulled through the middle of
the first and netted: you do the same with each two of the other
stitches, and must be careful not to burst them. For the third row, the
silk is put twice round the mesh, and the netting is plain. You proceed
thus in alternate rows until the work is done.

[Illustration]

HONEYCOMB NETTING, WITH TWO MESHES.--The meshes proper are No. 9 and 16.
Cast on an even number of stitches, and net the first row plain, with
the No. 9 mesh. With mesh No. 16 net the second row, working the second
stitch first and the first second, and so proceed netting the fourth
stitch, and then the third, and so on to the end. Work the third row
with No. 9 as before, and the fourth row as the second, only netting the
first loop plain, and then taking, first the third, and then the second,
and so on to the end, finishing with a loop in plain netting. The next
row is done plain with No. 9, the next with No. 16, exactly as the first
twisted row. The odd stitch netted plain, only occurs at the
commencement of each alternate row of netting done with No. 16. This
kind of netting is proper for a veil.

[Illustration]

LEAF NETTING.--This is pretty when executed properly. You should work
with cotton, and No. 14 mesh. Five loops are required for each pattern.
Commence the first row by netting two plain loops for the edge, then net
three plain, in the next loop increase four, and repeat this operation
to the end of the row; finish with two plain loops. Begin the second row
as before, and collect all the loops increased in each of the twice four
loops formed in the last row, into one; then net four loops plain;
repeat this to the end of the row, and net two plain as before. The
third row is plain netting. The fourth row has two loops netted plain,
then two more plain; you then increase four on each of the next two
loops, net one plain, and repeat the operation to the end of the row;
finish by netting two stitches plain. Fifth row, commence as before, net
one plain loop, collect the increased loops as the second row, net three
plain, and so repeat; net two plain to finish the row. The next row is
netted plain. Repeat these rows as often as your work requires it to be
done.

NET WITH POINTS.--This is done by making a foundation of, say, ninety
stitches. Net on this foundation with any color you please. Net fifty
stitches and return back again, proceed as before, only decreasing ten
stitches, and so go on, until the required point is gained. Two colors
are required.

[Illustration]

MALTESE NETTING, IN SPOTS.--This is neat and elegant: it is done as
follows. The first two rows are netted plain: you commence the third row
by netting seven stitches; the silk is then to be passed round the mesh,
and the needle brought under the knot in the second row, but without
netting it; that is between the stitch you last netted and the one you
are about to net. A loop is then made, which is not to be netted
separately, as that would increase a stitch in the next row; but it is
to be taken up with the last of the seven stitches previously netted. If
you desire the spots to appear very distinct and prominent, let the silk
pass twice round the mesh, and afterwards through the loop, and repeat
the operation to the end. You may do this spotting, either as it appears
in the pattern, or in almost any form you please.

[Illustration]

PLAIN OPEN NETTING.--This is pretty, and easy of execution. The
operation is performed by netting three rows plain, then a row of loop
stitches, then three rows plain, and a row of loops as before. You may
net to any length you please. The direction here given is all that is
necessary, and if duly attended to will enable any young lady to attain
proficiency.

[Illustration]

ROUND NETTING.--You commence making the loops, as in common netting, by
twisting the silk round the fingers, then pass the needle and the silk
through the finger-loop, and bring it up on the back side of the mesh,
between it and the fore finger; the fingers and loop are still to be
kept on them as before; the middle is then to be reversed, and brought
down through the first loop, (on the foundation,) and taking a slanting
direction over the mesh. Having drawn it entirely through, you withdraw
your finger from the loop, as in ordinary netting. You every succeeding
loop in the same way.




CHAPTER XV.

NETTING.


EXAMPLES IN NETTING.

A PURSE, WITH CHINA SILK.--Make as many stitches on the foundation as
you please. Net three rows with plain colors, then five with China silk.
Repeat.

A SEAM PURSE, WITH BEADS.--You will need four skeins of fine silk, and a
mesh, No. 8. On a foundation of one hundred stitches, net one plain row.
Then in the next row, net a plain and a bead stitch successively. Net
the third row plain, and begin the next with a bead stitch. Proceed thus
till the purse is completed.

A NETTED BAG, WITH RING.--On a foundation of sixty stitches, net the bag
to half the length required; then net in a gilt ring, and finish the
bag. Draw it up with ribbon, and place a gilded or silk tassel at the
bottom. You will require coarse netting silk, and a No. 16 mesh. You may
use union cord, or gilt twist, if you prefer it.

DICE PATTERN PURSE.--This is done in two colors, highly contrasted. You
must have two skeins of second sized silk, and a No. 10 mesh. On a
foundation of ninety-eight stitches, net seven with the darkest color.
You net seven rows. Then introduce the lighter silk, by joining it to
the seventh stitch of the first row of the dark color, and net seven
rows upon the succeeding seven stitches of the foundation. You must be
careful to loop in the last dark stitch on each row: repeat this process
until the purse is of the length you require; of course reversing the
squares. In cutting off the silk, you must leave sufficient to make a
weaver's knot, with which is to be fastened to the succeeding color.

HONEYCOMB MITTENS.--You commence by casting on fifty stitches; the first
four rows are to netted plain: after which, you net one row with the
silk, twice round the mesh; again net two rows with the silk round the
mesh once: you then commence netting rounds, and net rows as before. The
first row is to be netted with the silk twice round the mesh, the second
is in honey-comb pattern; the third round is executed as the first, and
the fourth as the second; for the fifth round you net eleven stitches
with the silk, round the mesh, as in the first row, and make two
increased stitches in the twelfth loop; in the next row, you are to net
five stitches and increase two, netting the whole, as in the first row;
net the seventh like the second, and let this be repeated for the four
succeeding rounds, a plain and a pattern round alternately; in the next
round, which is plain, pass the silk twice round the mesh, and net seven
stitches; increase two stitches in the eighth round and net seventeen in
plain and pattern, alternate rounds; in the eighteenth increase two, and
net five rounds; again increase two, and net five; and on each side
again increase two; net three rounds after the last increase, continuing
to net till you arrive at the stitch over the last stitch you increased,
and net it to the one corresponding to it on the other side of the
thumb; if it does not fit as it ought to do, you must decrease, until
that object is secured; you are to finish the thumb, by netting a round
with the silk, put twice round the mesh, and two rounds in plain
netting; the silk is to be fastened to the side of the thumb, in order
to finish the hand: and you are to net plain and pattern rounds
successively. When the mitten is nearly the length you wish, finish in
the same manner you did the thumb, using double silk.

NETTED CUFFS.--The materials are German wool and French floss silk, and
the work is executed with a mesh, No. 11, and a small steel one, No. 15.
You commence on a foundation of fifty-four loops; and in order to form
the right side, you net one row of wool with the large mesh, and three
rows of silk with the small one, alternately, till you have netted
twenty four rows. Then you form the wrong side, by netting one row of
wool with the larger mesh, and two rows of the same material with the
small one. You will require nine rows netted with the wide mesh, with
two narrow rows between each. Then net one wide row with wool, having in
each loop three stitches; above this, knit one narrow row of silk, and
do the same at the other end. You have only to double the cuffs, turning
the plain side inmost, and the rows of wool and silk will form a kind of
border and finish to the whole.

NETTED CUFF WITH SILK AND WOOL.--On a foundation of ninety-six stitches,
and with a No. 11 mesh, net one row plain in floss silk. Second row the
same. Then with an ivory mesh of half an inch in width, net one row in
German wool. The fourth row is to be done two stitches in one, with
wool, using a small mesh. Then for the inside half of the cuff, net
fourteen rows with the large and small meshes, successively. These to be
done in silk and wool alternately. The next three rows to be netted in
dark wool. Then with the small mesh net two rows in silk, the same color
as at the commencement, alternately, with seven rows of wool, in proper
shades, and finish with an edge to correspond with the beginning.

NETTED FRINGE.--Use a mesh No. 18, and net the required length, dropping
off the stitches on the left. Net the next row the same. Then with a
flat mesh, the width of the fringe, placing the grooved edge downward,
net one row. These latter loops are to be cut, and either left as they
are, or knitted two and two together, as the taste of the worker may
dictate.

NETTED OPERA CAP.--Work with one mesh, half an inch wide; and another,
smaller, of steel; and begin on a foundation of seventy-four stitches.
You must procure in double German wool, two colors that contrast well:
commence with the darkest shade, and net with the wide mesh one row; the
second is to be netted with the narrow one, and so on alternately: the
sixth and seventh are both worked with the narrow mesh: then net five
more rows with the wide and narrow meshes alternately: this done, you
commence with the other color, and net one row, having three stitches on
each loop of the row preceding: you now introduce silk of the same color
as that of the wool first used, and net one row with the narrow mesh; in
that row all the stitches of the last row, netted in wool, must be taken
up separately; the foundation is now to be removed, and rows of the
lighter colored wool and silk, are to be netted to correspond. Net
another piece of work in exactly the same manner as the former, and
taking one of the pieces, fold it in the middle, and net one row with
the narrow mesh in the centre row of knots; in the piece thus doubled,
proceed to net a row with the wide mesh, then two with the narrow one,
and again one with the wide mesh. The other piece is then to be folded
in the same manner, and united to the former one by netting a row,
taking up as before the centre row of knots. This makes the front of the
cap appear in four pieces. At the back, in the centre row of knots, net
a row with the narrow mesh, to keep it on an even fold. You draw up the
cap at the end, and put the strings on. This completes it.

[Illustration]

NETTED SCOLLOP EDGING.--You work this with a flat mesh, and set on as
many stitches as you intend to have scollops. The flat mesh should be
No. 3; and you will also require two round ones, one No. 14 and the
other No. 18. Begin the work as follows. Net the first row with the flat
mesh, and increase eighteen stitches into each of the loops on the
foundation. For the second row, use the mesh No. 14, and net a plain
stitch into each loop. Then, with the mesh No. 18, net the third row in
long loops, by passing the material twice round the mesh; you are to
increase two stitches in the same loop, and so continue to the end of
the row. In the fourth row you use the mesh No. 14 and leaving all the
increased stitches without netting them, net the long loops plain. The
fifth and sixth rows are netted plain with the mesh No. 14, which
finishes the scollop.

PLAIN NETTED GENTLEMAN'S PURSE.--Of coarse netting silk, you will
require five skeins, and a mesh, No. 13. You must have a foundation of
eighty stitches on which to commence, and you net to the length of ten
inches. Net up the sides and damp it slightly, after which it is put
upon a purse stretcher, where it is to be left for a few hours, then
take it off and trim it as you please.

A LADY'S PURSE.--Net in the same manner seventy stitches on the
foundation, and nine inches in length is sufficient. Employ a mesh No.
10, and fine netting silk. Two colors may be used, netting five rows
with one, and four with the other.

PLAIN NETTED MITTENS.--Begin on forty-eight stitches as a foundation,
and net four rows plain; then form the loops, for the ribbon, with a
mesh double the size of that you work with. Then five rows more are to
be netted plain; and in the next you must join both ends, and net one
plain round, taking care in the twelfth stitch to increase. Again net
round, and increase as before. Net the remaining stitches. You must then
net sixteen rounds, increasing two stitches, to form the thumb, in the
same place as the other increased stitches, every other round. Join the
thumb stitches, and net seven rounds, which is the length of the thumb,
decreasing a stitch or two in every round. With the larger mesh you are
to net two stitches in every loop, and then net one round, taking the
two together. Net two or three rounds with a finer mesh: this finishes
the thumb. Net as many rounds as are wanted for the hand, and finish as
before. Run in the ribbon, and edge with lace. You must have a No. 12
mesh, and five skeins of silk.

[Illustration]

A PLAIN SCOLLOP.--You must cast on one stitch for each scollop: this is
the first row. For the second, use a flat mesh No. 1, and increase
twenty stitches in each loop. Net the third with a round mesh No. 14,
netting all the increased loops plain. The two next rows are netted
plain, with the same mesh, which finishes the pattern.

[Illustration]

CAP BORDER SCOLLOP.--You commence with one stitch for each scollop, as
in last pattern. For the second row, use the flat mesh No. 1, and
increase in each loop twelve stitches. Net the third round with the
round mesh No. 15, and be careful to net the increased stitches plain.
The last row is netted plain, with the same mesh as the preceding one.
The cotton used in the netting of these scollops, should be about the
size of what is called third-sized purse twist.

NET CRAVAT.--This is netted with German wool, and with a mesh No. 9.
Having cast on 400 stitches, in the color you intend first to use, net
twenty-three rows in plain netting. Then introduce the other color, or
white; and again, in the same manner, net twenty-three rows. Proceed
thus, till you have three stripes of each color: then net the two sides
together, and draw up the ends. You may add tassels, if you choose.

A NET SCARF.--This is to be worked with two flat needles, No. 8 and No.
2, and in that kind of silk called _dockers_. You are to commence, by
casting on 210 stitches, and netting four rows with the smaller mesh,
and thirty or thirty-two with the larger one. These repeated, six times,
completes the scarf. You must add the four narrow rows, which will
complete the edge. The scarf is to be drawn up at each end, and have
tassels attached.

A LONG PURSE, IN POINTS.--Upon your foundation loops, put sixty stitches
in one of the colors you intend to use, and return on them. Then, in the
next row, put on forty stitches, the next forty, and so on to ten,
always returning on the number last put on, and leaving the ten
unnetted. You then, with another needle, introduce your other color, and
put on ten stitches upon the foundation loops, commencing ten loops from
the sixty of the first color. When you have reached the last of the
sixty, which you will do when you have put on the ten, you must draw the
mesh out, and pass the needle with the second color, through the
concluding stitch of the first, working back upon the second color the
ten stitches last introduced. The rest of the row is increased ten; and
you must then decrease, as you did with the first color. One pattern is
then complete; and you re-commence and proceed as before.




CHAPTER XVI.

CROCHET.


STITCHES IN CROCHET.

Crochet has been long known, but it has only become a favorite with the
fair votaries of the needle, during the last few years. It is very
difficult to describe, though easy of execution, and can be applied to a
variety of useful and ornamental purposes. It is most frequently adopted
in working shawls, table covers, pillows, mats, slippers, carriage mats,
and a great variety of other things of elegance and utility. Silk,
cotton, and wool, are employed, and the work is so easy, that a moderate
share of attention to details, will make an expert workman.

STITCHES.--These are called plain single crochet, plain double crochet,
plain stitch open crochet, and open crochet, with a variety of stitches.
It is not easy to describe the manner of working crochet stitch, though
it is easy of execution: perhaps the following will be found tolerably
correct. Take a skein of wool, and having wound it, make a loop at one
end, like the first link in a chain; through this draw another, and so
on, until the chain is of the length required. Each must be made rather
tight as it is drawn through its preceding loop. This forms the
foundation, and the young worker may then proceed with the article she
intends to make. She must pass the needle through the last loop of the
foundation, and catching the silk or other material from behind, draw it
through and so proceed with every succeeding loop of the foundation,
until the row is completed. Having thus formed the first row, she must
proceed as before to form a second, and so on from right to left, and
from left to right, until she has all the rows required. This is the
most effectual way we know of for the learner to pursue and she will
find that her work is the same on both sides, producing raised and
depressed rows in alternate succession. In working she must not
generally work backward and forward, but must finish each row
separately.

PLAIN CROCHET.--Make only one loop in each stitch. In making common
purses in crochet, this is the stitch generally employed.

PLAIN DOUBLE CROCHET.--Keep two loops on the needle before finishing the
stitch. This stitch is more generally in use than any of the others
described.

PLAIN STITCH OPEN CROCHET.--This stitch is done in the following manner.
To the last link of the foundation chain, crochet five stitches, which
must be again crocheted in the fifth stitch of the chain. This is to be
repeated to the foundation. The rest of the rows are to be done in the
same way, attaching every fifth stitch to the centre one of each loop in
the row preceding. This looks extremely well for purses, and it can be
varied by employing two or more colors as taste or fancy may direct.

[Illustration]

OPEN CROCHET.--This stitch is difficult to describe; an attention to the
following rules will, we hope, enable the reader to understand it. First
make a chain of the length required for the foundation; then work one
stitch plain, and bring the material round the needle, which must be
passed through the first loop of the chain, through which bring the
material, and you will thus have three stitches on the needle. Through
the two first of these the material must be drawn, which will leave two;
through these the material must be again drawn, and that will leave one,
through which you are to make one stitch plain, as at the commencement.
You then put the material over the needle, and through the fourth link
of the chain, and proceed as before. You will thus have one plain stitch
between each two double ones, which will leave an open space.

[Illustration]

DOUBLE OPEN CROCHET.--This is a similar stitch, only the single stitch
is omitted, and the two long stitches are made together, by passing the
needle through the next loop without making a stitch. Thus you will have
two long stitches and one open stitch in succession.

[Illustration]

TREBLE OPEN CROCHET.--This is exactly like the last, only making three
long stitches, instead of two, before every plain stitch. It looks neat
and elegant, and may have beads introduced, which produce a charming
effect. The following directions will enable the novice to work with
beads with freedom and accuracy. Thread the beads on a strong silk, and
pass one on to the middle stitch of each of the three long ones.

This will, of course, place a bead in the centre of each square. Beads
of various colors may be introduced, so as to form a diamond. A gold or
polished steel one should form the centre of each diamond.

DOUBLE STITCH CROCHET.--To work this you have only to take both meshes
of the chain, instead of one, as in common crochet.

PLAIN STITCH ELASTIC CROCHET.--Work backward and forwards, first taking
one mesh of the chain, and then the other. The upper mesh must be taken
first.

BEAD STITCH.--If you wish to work with beads, you must thread all you
intend to use, before you begin to work. Then when you wish to insert a
bead, no matter what the pattern is you are executing, you have only to
pass a bead down to the last stitch you have worked, and to fasten it on
by working the stitch as usual; but this will leave it on the wrong
side; to prevent which, you must bring the crocheting thread to the
front, having it on the fore finger of the left hand: by thus keeping
the bead in front, and inserting the needle from the back of the stitch
you are about to work, you can draw the thread through the back, and
make the finishing loop in the common way: you will then find that the
bead is on the right side.

EDGE STITCH.--To work this stitch you are to draw a loop through the
first stitch on the row, or on the round, if you work in rounds, then
draw a second loop through the one last made. Thus the edge stitch is
formed. It is of importance to attend to the regular working of this
stitch, because if it is not done, you will lose in each row a stitch.
On a round, it is not necessary to work the edge stitch; but when the
work has to be turned to work round the contrary way, the edge stitch is
indispensible.

A RAISED STITCH.--Make this by passing the needle through, both meshes
of the chain, and working two stitches instead of one, in the same space
or hole.

TO INCREASE OR DECREASE A STITCH.--In the former case, make two stitches
in the mesh; and in the latter, take two stitches together as one, or
miss one.

TRUE STITCH.--This means to keep the stitches exactly over each other,
when working in different colors, so as to conceal the half stitch.
This must be done with care: and the more attention is paid to it, the
more beautiful will the work appear.

TO FASTEN ON OR OFF.--The former is done by laying the two ends of the
material contrary wise, and working a few stitches with both. The latter
process is performed by drawing the material through the last stitch,
which must be fastened at the back.

A DIVIDING LINE.--The most general form is that of working two stitches
up and down alternately, between the stripes in the groundings; but it
can be varied according to taste.

What is called making a stitch, at the beginning and end of a row, means
making one stitch of a chain before the first and after the last, which
new stitches are to be crocheted in the succeeding row.

TO CARRY ON A THREAD IN DOUBLE CROCHET.--It is a very common thing to
work a pattern in crochet, in more than one color; when this is the
case, it is necessary that the colors, not required, should be so
managed, as not to make loops, or stitches, at the back. To accomplish
this, they must be worked in the following manner. Let the threads, that
are not required, be laid along the fore finger of the left hand; and
the crochet needle must be inserted in the usual manner, into the
stitch; you are to let it go below the threads you are carrying on, and
the thread with which you are working is to be drawn at the back,
through the stitch, into which you inserted the needle or hook. Make the
finishing loop as usual, which you carry over the threads, and pull
through the two loops you have upon the needle. Thus you will make one
stitch, and the process is to be repeated as often as your work requires
it.

JOINING THE THREADS.--In order that threads may be united neatly and
properly, observe the following directions. Do not work up the thread
quite to the end, but leave a small portion; then, on the fore finger of
the left hand, by the end of the thread you are about to commence
working with, the end to be toward the tip of the finger, the ball will
of course be toward the arm; work over it for about six stitches,
proceeding as you do in carrying over the threads; then by the thread
you worked with, but on the same finger, and continue with the thread
you have last fastened on, and work over it, in the same manner, for
about six stitches. The ends are then to be cut, and you work on as
usual, with the thread just joined. This is the best method we know, of
making the work appear neat, and, at the same time, of securing the
required degree of fineness.

TO INCREASE A STITCH IN CROCHET.--The process by which this is done, is
as follows. First, make the stitch as usual, then work it again from the
hinder or back part of the stitch. This prevents a hole, which would
otherwise occur.

TO TAKE IN A STITCH.--To do this, two stitches are taken on the needle
at the same time, and you work them off as one.

We have given the fullest explanation of the various stitches in
crochet, that our limited space will allow; and we hope that the
directions are so plain that no one will be at a loss to comprehend
their meaning. But we cannot promise any votary of this delightful
employment, even tolerable success, unless she will assiduously apply
her own mind to the various directions. "No one can become an expert
needlewoman, who does not think, and think deeply, too."




CHAPTER XVII.

CROCHET.


EXAMPLES IN CROCHET.

[Illustration]

CROCHET EDGING, FOR COLLARS, &C.--Ascertain the length you will require,
and cast on the necessary number of chain stitches; you must use a steel
hook No. 19. You will find your labor facilitated by sewing a piece of
tape at the beginning and the end of the foundation-row of chain stitch.
If the tops be an inch wide, it will form a good beginning and
termination. The foundation of chain stitch forms the first row; the
second is worked thus; the hook is inserted through the first loop of
the foundation; (this will be on the tape,) through which, a loop is to
be brought in the usual manner; directly above this, a second loop is
worked, which forms the beginning. You now leave the tape, and work two
chain stitches; after which, you throw a stitch on the needle, by
casting the material over it. Then, taking the third loop on the
foundation, counting from the one last worked, you insert the hook,
passing two loops without working them, and catching the thread from
behind, pull it through. Thus, you will have on the needle three loops;
and you must now throw a stitch on the hook, which is, in like manner,
to be pulled through the first loop, near the point. By this, you will
still have three loops on the hook. Again, throw on a stitch as before,
which draw through the two first loops on the end of the hook; then
throw on another stitch, which must be pulled through the two loops
remaining on the hook. You will then have only one loop upon the needle;
and thus one stitch is completed. Make two chain stitches, as before,
and then perform another stitch; and so proceed, as in the former row,
but instead of inserting the hook in the third loop, as before, pass it
into the first open portion of the work, and work the stitch over the
two chain stitches of the second row, as follows. The needle being
inserted into the open space, you are to catch the material in from
behind, and draw it through, by which you will have three loops on the
hook: then throw a loop on as before, and let it be drawn through the
first loop, on the point of the hook. Another loop is next to be thrown
in, and drawn through the two loops nearest the hook, on which you will
now have two loops. You thus complete the stitch, as in the previous
row, and so proceed to the end. The next row is the same in all
respects; and the fifth is to form a Vandyke edge: it is worked in the
following manner: the needle is inserted into the open space, and work a
double tambour stitch round the chain stitches of the fourth row; then
seven chain stitches are to be made and fastened to the two chain
stitches of the last row, in the same manner as before. Thus one scollop
or vandyke is completed, and you work all the others in the same way.

[Illustration]

PETTICOAT CROCHET EDGING.--Work this in the following manner. First row
like the last pattern. The second like the second of the last; and
finish with the fifth row of the same pattern. Persian cotton, No. 6, is
the best material; and you work with a long steel crochet needle, having
an ivory screw handle.

CROCHET EDGING, HANDKERCHIEFS.--This is done in three rows, worked as
the first, second, third, and fifth rows of crochet edging, for collars.
The material is Persian thread, No. 12; and you work with a fine steel
crochet needle, with a screw handle.

INSERTION, OR CROCHET BEADING.--You work this, if narrow, as first and
second rows of the first pattern; if you have it wider, work it as the
third row. It may be either worked with No. 8 or No. 12 cotton, and
looks neat and handsome.

The following remarks on crochet should be carefully attended to. It is
necessary to work this kind of work, rather loose than otherwise, as it
is liable to cut, if done over tight. The size of the stitch depends, of
course, upon that of the needle; and, therefore, care should be taken,
to have them gauged. If a needle will go into the slit, opposite No. 4,
but not into No. 5, then it is a No. 4 needle.

SOFA PILLOW.--Work in six threads fleecy, and with a good sized crochet
needle; work as follows. For the first stripe, commence with two rows of
the same color; the three next rows, in different shades, of a color
that will contrast well with that of the two first; the sixth row must
be of a different color, or it may be white. The next five rows are to
correspond, reversing the colors and shades. The second stripe is
composed of seven rows: the first, three distinct shades of the same
color; the middle one, a contrast; and the other three, the same shades
as the first, but reversed as before. The third stripe is the same, but,
of course, the colors are different. A white row in the middle of each
stripe, is, in our opinion, the best. The fourth stripe is a repetition
of the first, omitting the color in the first two rows, the fifth of the
second, and the sixth of the third. The last stripe is to correspond
_exactly_ with the first.

TURKISH PATTERN, FOR A TABLE COVER.--Use a steel needle, and six threads
fleecy. Form the dividing line of two shades of the same color, say
claret, and have four stripes, namely, white, gold color, blue, and
scarlet. Then, on the white stripe, work the pattern in two greens, two
scarlets, two blues, a brown, and a yellow. On the gold color, in two
blues and one claret, white, lilac, and green. On the blue, in two
scarlets, two greens, one drab, white, brown, and orange. And on the
scarlet, one green, one white, two blues, a claret, and a bright yellow.
We have merely given the colors in the above, as a specimen, and to
assist the youthful artist in the formation of habits of arrangement.
She can, of course, adopt any colors and shades she pleases; and the
more she employs her own thought and judgment, the more original will
her work appear.

A PLAIN CROCHET BAG, IN SILK.--Begin at the top with a chain, of one
hundred and fifty stitches. The material to work with, may be any kind
of silk that is proper for the purpose, and of any color that may be
deemed desirable. On this foundation, a plain row is to be worked, and
then a row in two colors, in two stitches of each alternately. The
second color is employed to form the ground of the pattern. Work one
plain row, and then work large stars, in a color to contrast with the
plain ground. Between the large stars, work small ones, in a different
color. One row of plain ground is to be crocheted on each side of the
pattern; and before commencing the second stripe, repeat the row of two
colors in two stitches of each. The ground of the next stripe is to
contrast highly with that of the former one. The larger stars should
also be well contrasted; but, all in the same stripe, must be of the
same color; all the small stars should be alike. The stripes are to be
repeated successively, until the bag is completed.

A GREEK CAP, IN COARSE CHENILLE.--With a chain of six or eight stitches,
begin at the top, and having united the ends, work round and round, in
rows, until it is eight inches across. You must increase your stitches,
in each row, so as to preserve the work flat. Work the stitches in open
crochet, and between every two rows, it will be best to introduce a few
plain lines, in black and gold. This cap is extremely elegant.

A CROCHET NECK CHAIN.--Commence with fine plain stitches; then put the
needle through the back of the second, and make one stitch plain. By
twisting the chain, after every stitch, you will find that one stitch
appears to cross; that stitch is the one to be next taken, and
crocheted.

A PLAIN CROCHET PURSE.--This purse is made with middle-sized netting
silk, and is strong and durable. A chain is to be made of one hundred
and forty stitches, of any color you prefer, on which, you are to
crochet three rows plain in the same color. Then, five rows, in a color
making a good contrast. Repeat these stripes as many times as are
requisite, and crochet up the sides. Draw up the ends, and trim the
purse.

We deem it unnecessary to add more examples in crochet, as without
engravings, they would not be understood. This kind of work is capable
of being applied to an almost indefinite number of purposes; but in
almost all cases, though easy of execution, the patterns are not easy to
be described in writing. We have, however, done all that is required, to
afford an insight into this kind of needlework; and have shewn that for
purses, bags, caps, neck chains, &c., it can be readily brought into
requisition. Much care and judgment are required in the arrangement of
colors, as on this, almost the whole beauty of the work depends.




CHAPTER XVIII.

TATTING.


EXPLANATION OF STITCHES.

[Illustration]

TATTING OPEN STITCH.--Take your tatting needle, and, having threaded it
with the appropriate material make a knot at the end. In order to make
the loops, put the knot just made on the fore finger of the left hand,
and form also a loop round the second, third and fourth fingers,
extending them for that purpose. These loops are made by carrying the
thread round the back of them, bringing it to the fore finger again, so
as to pass over the knot. In this position they must be held tightly
down by the pressure of the thumb. You will observe that the thumb and
fore finger are never to be moved while you form the scollop, but you
are to bring the needle and thread toward you in a straight direction
from the fore finger and thumb, between the second and third fingers:
the needle is then to be inserted from behind the finger loop, up
through the middle, between the thread which is on the needle, and the
thread round the fingers. You must be careful to have the thread (on the
needle) between you and the needle, after you have drawn it through.
From the right hand to the left the needle must be extended as tight as
possible, leaving loose the loop which is round the finger as you make
the stitch with the loop, and not with that portion of the thread which
is next the needle. You are to withdraw the second finger, and allow the
loop round the fingers to form round the thread. The fingers are then to
be again inserted, and form the stitch with the second finger by drawing
it up to its proper place, close to the thumb. This will finish the
stitch. For the next, cast the thread over the back part of the hand,
instead of bringing it to you as in the former stitch, and let the
needle be inserted down through the finger loop, between the first and
second fingers; then draw it up through between the two threads over the
back part of the fingers, and form the stitch with the second one, as in
the previous stitch. You work the third stitch the same as the first,
only longer, that it may form a long loop. Repeat the second stitch,
then the long loop; and thus proceed until you have seven loops: after
this, the thread is to be drawn up, so as to form the scollop.

[Illustration]

STAR TATTING.--The material for this kind of work is bobbin, such as is
generally used for children's caps. You have only to work six scollops
and draw them up close, so as to form a star. When made with precision
and regularity, they present a neat appearance. Star tatting is well
adapted for trimmings to a great many articles of apparel and ornament.

[Illustration]

COMMON TATTING EDGING.--Make the loops, and work the first stitch as in
the first pattern; then work twenty stitches the same way to form the
scollop. When it is finished, you must draw up the thread tight, and
then commence another. If it has been properly done, the scollop will
draw freely.




CHAPTER XIX.

CONCLUDING REMARKS.


In bringing the Ladies' Work-Table Book to a close, we cannot persuade
ourselves to dismiss the subject, without a word or two to our fair
friends, as to the use, necessary to be made, of all the useful or
ornamental accomplishments their circumstances and situations may enable
them to acquire. We should never, for one moment, suffer the utile to be
absent from our thoughts: she who has no definite aim in what she does,
can never have any good ground of hope, that, in her progress through
life, she can attain to excellence.

These remarks apply principally to that large class, who are dependent
upon exertion of some kind, for the means of comfort and respectability,
in their respective stations. But, as those ladies, whose circumstances
render a practical acquaintance with the arts here treated of, a matter
of indifference, a knowledge of them is, by no means, unnecessary. In
many ways indeed, a lady, blessed with affluence, may render an
acquaintance with the details of needlework extensively useful.

It is often the case that young persons are engaged in families, whose
education has been, from some cause or other, lamentably neglected. In
those cases, the lady who feels her obligations, and is actuated by a
true Christian spirit, will consider herself as standing in the place of
a mother to her humble dependents; and, under a deep sense of her high
responsibilities, will endeavor to improve, and fit them, by suitable
and kindly-imparted instructions, for the proper discharge of the duties
of that station, which it may be presumed they will in after days be
called upon to fill. In this case, how useful will the kind and careful
mistress find a knowledge of that art, which teaches the proper method
of making those articles of dress which are so essential to every family
who, however humble, are desirous of securing the respect of the wise
and the good, by judicious economy, and a neat and respectable
appearance.

Those ladies who are in the habit of devoting a portion of their time to
the superintendence of our female charity schools, will also find such
knowledge extremely beneficial. To those who are disposed to follow the
example of the holy Dorcas, in providing garments for the deserving and
destitute poor, an acquaintance with _plain needlework_ is
indispensible; and indeed, it will, in every walk of life, be found
useful to her who is, by the animating love of the Lord Jesus, disposed

                  "To seek the wretched out,
    And court the offices of soft humanity."

Another advantage may also be gained, by a manifestation of the kindly
solicitude for the improvement of domestics, here pointed out. In cases
where the secular tuition of young persons has been neglected, it will
be generally found that their religious and moral training has been
equally uncared for. Let the Christian lady evince a real desire to
improve the temporal condition of those beneath her influence, and she
will soon find that the best affections of the heart are opened to the
reception of instructions of a higher and still more important
character. Hard indeed must be that heart which can resist the influence
of genuine kindness exercised in a friendly Christian spirit. We once
had the pleasure of seeing a young servant baptized in the faith of
Christ, while those in whose service she was, and two others, highly
respectable persons, answered for her at the font. This beautiful
meeting together of the rich and the poor, took place in one of the most
splendid parish churches in England, and left on our minds an impression
which will never be effaced.

In the foregoing pages we have endeavored to lay before the young votary
of the needle, such instructions as we hope will be found sufficiently
clear to enable her to produce many a delightful specimen of her
assiduity, taste, and judgment. We have sought to be concise, without
being obscure; and to give plain directions, without making our readers
mere imitators, or copyists. One fault which is to be found in all the
books on these subjects, which we have seen, we have carefully avoided;
that is, the giving a list of the various colours to be employed in the
fabrication of each example given. Nothing can be more absurd, and
mischievous than this. The young work-woman can only exercise her
judgment, to any extent, in this department of her labors. The various
stitches she must form according to the prescribed rule; because, in
most instances, they can be performed in no other manner; but in the
choice of materials, and colors, she should have free scope: here
judgment, taste, and fancy, should range untrammelled by rules and
forms; and yet this is rarely done, because the lady is taught to rely
upon her patterns, and scarcely ever to consult her own sense of beauty
or propriety. We see the effect of this, in the sameness, and monotonous
appearance of almost all kinds of fancy-work: and we have endeavored to
do our best, to introduce a more correct taste and principle into this
department of the elegant arts, in which females are engaged. We know
that much native genius exists among our fair countrywomen; and we wish
to see it expand, as freely as the refreshing breeze, that sweeps over
our native hills.

We have before alluded to the various and interesting uses to which the
needle can be applied, and the high moral ends it is so well calculated
to promote: and if such be its importance, then it will be readily
admitted by all, that he who has made the most improvements, and
produced the most finished specimens of this all-important instrument,
has conferred a real benefit upon his race.

We have a higher end in view, than promoting the acquisition of
accomplishments, however elegant or pleasing. We wish to direct the
minds of those whom we are thus endeavoring to interest and instruct, to
the immortal beauties of moral excellence. These works may be made
conducive, in a high degree, to the development of family affection, and
the promotion, to a vast extent, of the purposes of genuine charity,
benevolence, and friendship. But there is yet a higher kind of use, to
which we would apply them. We would have the young lady, who is becoming
expert and clever at her needle to reflect, as the beautiful fabric
grows beneath her forming hand, that her work, and the power and skill
to plan and execute it, is an emanation of the Immortal Mind; of that
Mind, whose creative powers are a faint, but legible transcript of the
Omnipotent Wisdom of the Deity. This thought gives a permanency to what
would, in any other light be only transitory as the summer cloud. It is
Omnipotent Wisdom and Power, which has contrived and executed all the
beautiful wonders of creation; and that Wisdom and Power were called
into activity by Omnipotent Love. We wish to impress this sublime truth
upon the mind of our young readers, because we wish them to place their
Heavenly Father before them--as their pattern and example--in all that
they take in hand; and to remember that, as He formed the universe by
Wisdom, from Love--so all their actions and elegant contrivances should
be the result of judgment, guided by affection--that they may thus
become like their Father, who is in Heaven.

Indeed, it is only when accomplishments are rendered subservient to the
development of moral goodness, that they may become pursuits at all
worthy of an accountable being. We were not sent into this world to
flutter through life, like the gaudy butterfly, only to be seen and
admired. We were designed to be useful to our fellow beings; and to make
all our powers and capabilities, in some way or other conducive to the
happiness and welfare of our co-journeyers on the path of time. To this
end, we wish our fair countrywomen to devote their best attention; and,
in its attainment, to exert every energy which they possess. We wish
them to make all the knowledge which they may acquire subserve some
noble purpose; which will outlive the present hour. But to do this, the
well-spring of the purest affections must be opened in the soul; and the
elegant productions of taste and genius become vitalized, and animated,
by the spirit of love. Thus, and thus only, can the occupations of a
leisure hour be converted into efficient ministers of good; and such
they will assuredly be found, if practised from right motives, and
placed in due subordination to the right exercise of more important
duties. The young votaress of the needle, of drawing, or of music,
should ever bear in mind, that the time employed in those pursuits, will
be accounted lost or improved, by the impartial Judge of all--just in
proportion as they have been made to serve the purposes of selfish
gratification, or to minister to the development of an elevated moral
character--generous and warm affections--and the cultivation of those
virtues, which, as essentials of the Christian character, shall outlive
the ravages of time, and qualify the soul for all the beatitudes of a
coming eternity.

In all then that the young lady aims to learn, or to accomplish, let her
place a high and moral standard before her, and resolve to render every
transaction of her life conducive to her preparation for a higher state
of being. Our various faculties and powers were not given us to be
wasted, but to be used to the honor of our Creator--the comfort and
welfare of those around us--and, as a consequence of our faithful
discharge of our several obligations, conducive, in an eminent degree,
to our happiness. No mistake can be more fatal, than an idea that, for
what we call trifles, we shall have no account to render. What we call
trifles, may be, in their consequence, both to ourselves and others, the
most important acts of our lives. It is not by great events that our
characters are formed; but by the neglect or performance of our duties
in that state of life, into which the Wisdom of our Heavenly Father has
seen fit to call us. To elevate the sufferings, soothe the sorrows,
increase the comforts, and enhance the joys of all around us, should be
the highest aim of a laudable ambition--and every endeavor should be
most assiduously devoted to the accomplishment of these important ends.
It is, in fact, only when we thus employ our various talents and
capabilities, that they are really useful, in any other case, they are
only ministers to our personal pride, and selfish gratification, instead
of becoming links in that golden chain, by which the faithful
performance of appointed duties is elevated to the possession of "a
crown of righteousness, that fadeth not away."

Let, then, the youthful female, as she plies her needle, or exercises
her judgment or ingenuity, in the choice of colors or materials, or in
the invention of new developments of creative genius, ever remember to
exercise those powers as a Christian--let her cultivate, in her inmost
soul, the conviction, that all her skill and power is imparted from on
high--and let her be careful to make all she does, a sacrifice,
acceptable to her God, by doing all in the spirit, and under the
influence of that sacred charity--that boundless benevolence--which ever
rejoices, in making its various capabilities subservient to the good of
others, and thus gives to the otherwise perishable occurrences of time,
an endurance and a continuity, that shall endure for ever.




INDEX.


  Algerine Work, 69

  Angular Stitch, 33

  Applique, 84, 89

  Apron, Girl's, 40

  ----, Morning, 40

  ----, Vandyke, 40

  ---- for a young person, 40

  Aprons, 38

  ----, Dress, 39

  Armorial Bearings, 83, 89


  Baby's Cap, 111

  ---- Hood, 112

  ---- Shoe, 112

  Barege Knitting for Shawls, 115

  Basket Stitch, 66, 88

  Bathing Gown, 40

  Bead Stitch, 127, 145

  Bead Work, 84

  Beaufort Star, 71

  Beautiful Fringe and Border, 113

  Bed-room Linen, 54

  Bee's Stitch, 101

  Berlin Wire Stitch, 101

  Biassing, 35

  Binding, 59

  Biroche, A, 111

  Blankets, 54

  Border for a Shawl, 124

  Braces, 85

  Braiding, 59

  Braid Work, 84, 89

  Brief Description of Wools, 22

  Bustles, 41

  Button-hole Stitch, 31


  Cap Border Scollop, 140

  Caps, 41

  Cashmere Shawl, 49

  Cast off, To, 100

  Cast on, To, 98

  Cast over, To, 99

  Chain Stitch, 32, 102

  ---- ---- on Gathers, 34

  Checked Patterns, 115

  Chenille Embroidery, 80

  Chess Pattern, 71

  Child's Collar, 41

  Cloaks, 42

  Close Stitch for Waistcoats, 115

  Comforter, A, 113

  Comforter, Another, 113

  Common Plait, 101

  Common Tatting Edging, 155

  Coral Pattern, 35

  Corner for a Shawl, 122

  Corners, To fill up, 69

  Cravats, 42

  Crochet Edging, for Collars, 148

  ---- ---- for Hdkfs., 150

  ---- Neck Chain, 152

  Cross Stitch, 65

  Crow's-foot Stitch, 102


  Diagram, 61

  Diamond Netting, 128

  ---- ---- 5 stitches, 128

  Dice Pattern, 72

  ---- ---- Purse, 135

  Dinner Napkins, 56

  Dividing Line, A, 146

  Dotted Knitting, Baby's shoe, 117

  ---- Netting, 129

  Double Cross Stitch, 65

  ---- Diamond, long stitch, 72

  ---- Herring-boning, 34

  ---- Knitting, 103

  ---- Nightcap, 117

  ---- Open Crochet, 144

  ---- Plait Stitch, 69

  ---- Stitch Crochet, 144

  ---- Straight Cross Stitch, 65

  Dressing Table Covers, 55

  Dress Shawl, 49

  Dutch Common Knitting, 104


  Edge Stitch, 145

  Elastic Rib, 105

  Embroidery, 88

  ---- in Wool, 80

  ---- with Silk, 79

  Embossed Diamond, 104

  ---- Hexagon Stitch, 104


  Fancy Bobbin Edging, 34

  ---- Button-hole Stitch, 31

  ---- Chain Stitch, 31

  ---- Herring-boning, 33

  Fantail Stitch, 105

  Fasten on, To, 100

  ---- off, To, 146

  Feather Stitch, 67

  French Ground Net, 130

  ---- Stitch, 105

  Frills, 42

  Frame, to Dress for Cloth Work, 82

  ----, to Dress for Cross Stitch, 82

  ----, to Dress for Tent Stitch, 83


  Gathering, Double, or Puffing, 30

  ----, 30

  Gem, or Set Patterns, 85

  Gentlemen's Belts, 43

  ---- Braces, 89

  ---- Collars, 43

  ---- Fronts, 43

  ---- Travelling Cap, 118

  ---- Waistcoats, 85, 89

  German Knitting, 105

  ---- Pattern, 72, 88

  Gobelin, 85

  ---- Stitch, 66

  Grecian Netting, 130

  Greek Cap, coarse Chenille, 152


  Habit Shirt, 119

  Half Handkerchief, 118

  Harlequin Quilt, with Tufts, 119

  Heart Pattern, 73

  Hemming, 29

  ----, German, 29

  Herring-bone Bag Stitch, 106

  ---- Purse, 118

  Herring-boning, 33

  Honeycombing, 36

  Honeycomb Mittens, 136

  ---- Netting, 131

  ---- ----, with two Meshes, 131

  ----, Another kind, 130

  ---- Stitch, 106

  Horse-shoe Stitch, 34

  Housemaid and Kitchen Linen, 57


  Imitation Net-work Stitch, 106

  Indian Scarf, 49

  Insertion, Crochet Beading, 150

  Instructions in Grounding, 91

  Irish Diamond, 73

  ---- Stitch, 66


  Jelly Bag, 58

  Joining the Threads, 146


  Knee Caps, 116

  Knit Herring-bone Stitch, 107

  Knitted Footing, 117

  ---- Fringe, 117

  ---- Muff, 114

  Knitting Stitch, 99


  Lace, 73, 88

  ---- Wave Stitch, 107

  Ladies' Drawers, 43

  ---- Flannel Waistcoats, 44

  ---- Night Jackets, 44

  ---- Purses, 139

  ---- Walking Shawls, 50

  Landscapes, 85

  Leaf Netting, 132

  Long Purse, in Points, 141

  Loop Stitch, 100


  Making Buttons, 60

  Maltese Netting in Spots, 133

  Mantuamaker's Hem, 29

  Materials for Plain Needlework, 17

  ---- for Embroidery, 21

  ---- for Fancy Needlework, 20

  ---- for Knitting, Netting and Crochet, 21

  Marking, 59

  Medallion Pattern, 90

  Mosaic Work, 86, 89

  Moss Stitch, 107

  Mourning Shawls, 50


  Narrowing, 99

  Necessary Implements in Crochet, 26

  Necessary Implements in Fancy Needlework, 25

  Necessary Implements in Knitting, 25

  Necessary Implements in Netting, 25

  Neck and Pocket Handkerchiefs, 45

  Net Cravat, 141

  ---- Scarf, 141

  ---- with Points, 132

  Netted Bag, with Ring, 135

  ---- Cuffs, with Silk and Wool, 137

  ---- Cuffs, 137

  ---- Fringe, 138

  ---- Opera Cap, 138

  ---- Scollop Edging, 139

  Night Gowns, 45

  ---- Stockings, 122


  Open Cross Stitch, 108

  ---- Crochet, 143

  ---- Hem, 107

  ---- Work Stockings, 121

  Ornamental Ladder Stitch, 108

  Over Shoe, 114


  Pantry Linen, 56

  Pattern for a Light Scarf, 120

  Patterns on Canvas, 86

  Pearl Stitch, 99

  Perforated Card, 86, 89

  Petticoat Crochet Edging, 149

  Petticoats, 46

  ----, Flannel, 46

  Pillow Covers, 54

  Pinafore, 47

  Pincushion Covers, 55

  Pine Apple Purse, 115

  ---- ---- Stitch, 108

  Piping, 60

  Plain Crochet, 143

  ---- Crochet Bag, in Silk, 151

  ---- ---- Purse, 152

  ---- Double Crochet, 143

  ---- Knitted Muffatees, 120

  ---- ---- Gentleman's Purse, 139

  ---- Netted Mittens, 139

  ---- Netting, 126

  ---- Open Netting, 133

  ---- ---- Stitch, 109

  ---- ---- Elastic Crochet, 144

  ---- Stitch Open Crochet, 143

  ---- Scarf, 48

  ---- Scollop, 140

  Plaiting, 60

  Pockets, 48

  Point Stitch, 68, 88

  Porcupine Stitch, 109

  Princess Royal, 74, 88

  Pudding Cloth, 58

  Purse, with China Silk, 135


  Queen Stitch, 68

  Queen's Vandyke, 68

  Quilts, 54


  Raised Embroidery, 80

  ---- Stitch, A, 145

  ---- Work, 93

  Raising, 99

  Rib, To, 99

  Ribbon Scarf, 48

  Roman Pattern, 74

  Round Netting, 133

  Rough Cast Stitch, 110

  Row, A, 99

  Rug Bordering, 87, 88

  Running, 29

  Russian Pattern, 74


  Scale of Canvases, 21

  Seam, To, 99

  Seam Purse, with Beads, 135

  Serpentine Stitch, 35

  Sewing and Felling, 29

  Shaded Silk Netting, 129

  Sheets, 54

  Shifts, 50

  Shirts, 51

  Single Plait Stitch, 68

  Slip Stitch, 100

  Socks, 122

  Sofa Pillow, 150

  Star Pattern, 90

  ---- Tatting, 154

  ---- with Eight Points, 116

  Stitches in Crochet, 142

  Stitching, 30

  Stitch, To take in a, 147

  ----, To increase or decrease a, 145

  ----, To incr. in Crochet, 147

  Stitches, To cast on the Loops or, 98

  Stockings, 120

  Straight Cross Stitch, 65

  Strong Knitted Purse, 114

  Suggestions as to Patterns, 77


  Table Cloths, 56

  ---- Linen, 56

  Tatting, Open Stitch, 153

  Tent Stitch, 64

  Thread, To bring forward a, 100

  ----, To carry on a, in Double Crochet, 146

  Towels, 55

  Travelling Shawl, 50

  Treble Open Crochet, 144

  True Stitch, 145

  Tucks, 60

  Turkish Pattern for a Table Cover, 151


  Veils, 52

  Velvet Stitch, 69

  Victoria Pattern, 75


  Wave Pattern, 75

  ---- Knitting, 110

  Welts, 100

  Whipping, 31

  Windsor Pattern, 76

  Wire Work, 87, 89

  Working Berlin Pattern, 93

  ---- Figures, 89, 92


  Zephyr, A, 114


THE END.




Transcriber's Note


The following typographical errors were corrected.

   iv  human felicity changed to human felicity.
    v  fair one changed to fair one.
    v  then, how, to fabricate changed to then, how to fabricate
   vi  form and utilty changed to form and utility
   ix  netting of a purse, changed to netting of a purse.
   18  very difficult t changed to very difficult to
   19  both sides, This changed to both sides. This
   20  MATERIALS FOE changed to MATERIALS FOR
   21  Knitting Netting, changed to Knitting, Netting,
   22  than others changed to than others.
   22  Wool.--This changed to WOOL.--This
   22  yarn, for mitts, changed to yarn, for mitts.
   24  her to devise changed to her to devise.
   25  Tissue Paper changed to Tissue Paper.
   27  extacy;" changed to extacy;
   27  native sky. changed to native sky."
   28  principal stiches changed to principal stitches
   29  thread with out changed to thread without
   30  GATHERING changed to GATHERING.
   30  are gathered, Then changed to are gathered. Then
   33  appropriate situations changed to appropriate situations.
   34  intricate to describle changed to intricate to describe
   36  must take grest changed to must take great
   38  visiter changed to visitor
   41  colico, ore changed to calico, are
   44  ADIES' NIGHT JACKETS. changed to LADIES' NIGHT JACKETS.
   48  wrong, side changed to wrong side
   48  PLAIN SCARF changed to PLAIN SCARF.
   51  Another meth d changed to Another method
   55  into the other, changed to into the other.
   60  in the middle changed to in the middle.
   60  like a star changed to like a star.
   64  painting in oil, changed to painting in oil.
   65  CROSS STITCH changed to CROSS STITCH.
   65  This is a stich changed to This is a stitch
   66  arrangment changed to arrangement
   67  same color changed to same color.
   70  unavailable repentance changed to unavailable repentance.
   71  increas-increasing changed to increasing
   72  inprovement changed to improvement
   76  is complete changed to is complete.
   76  ane xtremly changed to an extremely
   fn 79-*  The footnote marker was missing on the footnote
   80  CHENILLE EMBROIDERY changed to CHENILLE EMBROIDERY.
   81  perseverence changed to perseverance
   83  restored to changed to resorted to
   84  braided with ther changed to braided with their
   85  lavendar changed to lavender
   88  CHAPTER X changed to CHAPTER X.
   88  considerable size changed to considerable size.
   89  assidously changed to assiduously
   93  the, first changed to the first
   96  forgotton changed to forgotten
   96  incovenience changed to inconvenience
   98  Lee., M. A, changed to Lee, M. A.,
   98  first intoduction changed to first introduction
   98  the means changed to the means,
   99  PEARL STITCH changed to PEARL STITCH.
  100  NOTE, in cas tingon changed to NOTE, in casting on
  102  other three stiches changed to other three stitches
  102  that tbe pins changed to that the pins
  103  previous methods changed to previous methods.
  104  stitches, you choose changed to stitches you choose
  104  taking careto changed to taking care to
  106  loops, and kniting changed to loops, and knitting
  107  knit three siitches changed to knit three stitches
  111  preceeding changed to preceding
  112  five rows o changed to five rows of
  113  ancle changed to ankle
  113  each stitch; The changed to each stitch. The
  114  fringe and borber changed to fringe and border
  115  knitting three stiches changed to knitting three stitches
  118  when it ouccurs changed to when it occurs
  120  PATTERN FOR A LIGHT SCARF changed to PATTERN FOR A LIGHT SCARF.
  120  generaly changed to generally
  122  every other stich changed to every other stitch
  123  Eleventh row plain changed to Eleventh row plain.
  123  make a siitch changed to make a stitch
  123  knit two togteher changed to knit two together
  124  twenty-seeond changed to twenty-second
  127  bottom of the preceeding changed to bottom of the preceding
  128  For the fouth changed to For the fourth
  129  principal beauty changed to principal beauty.
  131  the end Work changed to the end. Work
  134  You every is missing a word, probably "work." This change was
       not made in the text
  134  succeding changed to succeeding
  135  ninety-eight stiiches changed to ninety-eight stitches
  136  net seven stiches changed to net seven stitches
  137  double silk changed to double silk.
  137  to the whole, changed to to the whole.
  140  loop Net changed to loop. Net
  143  can be be varied changed to can be varied
  144  each square, changed to each square.
  145  back or the changed to back of the
  145  loose in each changed to lose in each
  145  TO INCREASE OR DECREASE A STITCH. changed to TO INCREASE OR
       DECREASE A STITCH.
  145  conceal the the half changed to conceal the half
  146  means meaking changed to means making
  150  This is done it changed to This is done in
  152  same color changed to same color.
  153  Take you tatting changed to Take your tatting
  157  of a highe changed to of a higher
  160  puposes of selfish changed to purposes of selfish
  161  sooth changed to soothe
  163  Bedroom changed to Bed-room
  163  ---- on Gathers changed to ---- ---- on Gathers
  164  Tatting Edging changed to Tatting Edging,
  164  Fan-tail changed to Fantail
  165  Travelling Cap changed to Travelling Cap,
  165  Imitation Network changed to Imitation Net-work

The Index has been standardized to have a , between the index entry
and the page number.

The following words had inconsistent spelling and hyphenation.

  cross-way / crossway
  honey-comb / honeycomb
  indispensible / indispensable
  needle-woman / needlewoman
  needle-work / needlework
  net-work / network
  pin-cushion / pincushion
  vitalized / vitalised





