file was produced from images generously made available by the university of florida, the internet archive/children's library) uncle toby's series. dame duck's first lecture on education. * * * * * old mother duck has hatched a brood of ducklings, small and callow: their little wings are short, their down is mottled gray and yellow. there is a quiet little stream, that runs into the moat, where tall green sedges spread their leaves, and water-lilies float. close by the margin of the brook, the old duck made her nest, of straw, and leaves, and withered grass, and down from her own breast. [illustration] and there she sat for four long weeks, in rainy days and fine, until the ducklings all came out- four, five, six, seven, eight, nine. one peeped out from beneath her wing, one scrambled on her back: "that's very rude," said old dame duck, "get off! quack, quack, quack, quack!" "'tis close," said dame duck, shoving out the egg shells with her bill, "besides, it never suits young ducks to keep them sitting still." so, rising from her nest, she said, "now, children, look at me: a well-bred duck should waddle so, from side to side--d'ye see?" [illustration] [illustration] "yes," said the little ones, and then she went on to explain: "a well-bred duck turns in its toes as i do--try again." "yes," said the ducklings, waddling on: "that's better," said their mother; "but well-bred ducks walk in a row. straight--one behind another." "yes," said the little ducks again, all waddling in a row: "now to the pond," said old dame duck- splash, splash, and in they go. "let me swim first," said old dame duck, "to this side, now to that; there, snap at those great brown-winged flies, they make young ducklings fat. [illustration] "now, when you reach the poultry-yard, the hen-wife, molly head, will feed you, with the other fowls, on bran and mashed-up bread; "the hens will peck and fight, but mind, i hope that all of you, will gobble up the food as fast as well-bred ducks should do. "you had better get into the dish, unless it is too small; in that case, i should use my foot, and overturn it all." the ducklings did as they were bid, and found the plan so good, that, from that day, the other fowls got hardly any food. * * * * * new picture books for little children. * * * * * particular attention is called to the following unrivalled "three cent books." _uncle toby's series--new._ twelve kinds. a happy collection of enjoyable, childish stories. four full-page illustrations, elegantly printed in colors. 16mo. 10 pages. old mother bantry. dame duck's first lecture. the three tiny pigs. the naughty puppies. the little dog trusty. whittington and his cat. the enraged miller. jack and jill. tommy tatter. queen and princess of dolly-land. chattering jack. little totty. _dr. watts' divine and moral songs._ six kinds. some of the best that have ever been written, embracing those recommended by dr. watts, as standards for the guidance of other writers. 12 pages. well printed, with four elegant illustrations in colors. showy pictorial covers, printed in colors. against faults. good resolutions. good examples. praises for good. against evil. early religion. _pleasure books._ six kinds. standard stories, with full-page showy illustrations. 16mo. 16 pages. pictorial covers, printed in colors. the house that jack built. fox and geese. the three bears. old dame and her silver sixpence. life and death of jenny wren. little man and little maid. --> many novelties in preparation, which will be superior to anything heretofore published. for a complete list of our popular publications, send for catalogue to mcloughlin bros., 71 & 73 duane street, n. y. note: project gutenberg also has an html version of this file which includes the original illustrations. see 14814-h.htm or 14814-h.zip: (http://www.gutenberg.net/dirs/1/4/8/1/14814/14814-h/14814-h.htm) or (http://www.gutenberg.net/dirs/1/4/8/1/14814/14814-h.zip) the tale of jemima puddle-duck by beatrix potter author of "the tale of peter rabbit," &c frederick warne & co., inc. new york 1908 [illustration] [illustration] a farmyard tale for ralph and betsy [illustration] what a funny sight it is to see a brood of ducklings with a hen! --listen to the story of jemima puddle-duck, who was annoyed because the farmer's wife would not let her hatch her own eggs. [illustration] her sister-in-law, mrs. rebeccah puddle-duck, was perfectly willing to leave the hatching to some one else--"i have not the patience to sit on a nest for twenty-eight days; and no more have you, jemima. you would let them go cold; you know you would!" "i wish to hatch my own eggs; i will hatch them all by myself," quacked jemima puddle-duck. [illustration] she tried to hide her eggs; but they were always found and carried off. jemima puddle-duck became quite desperate. she determined to make a nest right away from the farm. [illustration] she set off on a fine spring afternoon along the cart-road that leads over the hill. she was wearing a shawl and a poke bonnet. [illustration] when she reached the top of the hill, she saw a wood in the distance. she thought that it looked a safe quiet spot. [illustration] jemima puddle-duck was not much in the habit of flying. she ran downhill a few yards flapping her shawl, and then she jumped off into the air. [illustration] she flew beautifully when she had got a good start. she skimmed along over the tree-tops until she saw an open place in the middle of the wood, where the trees and brushwood had been cleared. [illustration] jemima alighted rather heavily, and began to waddle about in search of a convenient dry nesting-place. she rather fancied a tree-stump amongst some tall fox-gloves. but--seated upon the stump, she was startled to find an elegantly dressed gentleman reading a newspaper. he had black prick ears and sandy coloured whiskers. "quack?" said jemima puddle-duck, with her head and her bonnet on one side--"quack?" [illustration] the gentleman raised his eyes above his newspaper and looked curiously at jemima-"madam, have you lost your way?" said he. he had a long bushy tail which he was sitting upon, as the stump was somewhat damp. jemima thought him mighty civil and handsome. she explained that she had not lost her way, but that she was trying to find a convenient dry nesting-place. [illustration] "ah! is that so? indeed!" said the gentleman with sandy whiskers, looking curiously at jemima. he folded up the newspaper, and put it in his coat-tail pocket. jemima complained of the superfluous hen. "indeed! how interesting! i wish i could meet with that fowl. i would teach it to mind its own business!" [illustration] "but as to a nest--there is no difficulty: i have a sackful of feathers in my wood-shed. no, my dear madam, you will be in nobody's way. you may sit there as long as you like," said the bushy long-tailed gentleman. he led the way to a very retired, dismal-looking house amongst the fox-gloves. it was built of faggots and turf, and there were two broken pails, one on top of another, by way of a chimney. [illustration] "this is my summer residence; you would not find my earth--my winter house--so convenient," said the hospitable gentleman. there was a tumble-down shed at the back of the house, made of old soap-boxes. the gentleman opened the door, and showed jemima in. [illustration] the shed was almost quite full of feathers--it was almost suffocating; but it was comfortable and very soft. jemima puddle-duck was rather surprised to find such a vast quantity of feathers. but it was very comfortable; and she made a nest without any trouble at all. [illustration] when she came out, the sandy whiskered gentleman was sitting on a log reading the newspaper--at least he had it spread out, but he was looking over the top of it. he was so polite, that he seemed almost sorry to let jemima go home for the night. he promised to take great care of her nest until she came back again next day. he said he loved eggs and ducklings; he should be proud to see a fine nestful in his wood-shed. [illustration] jemima puddle-duck came every afternoon; she laid nine eggs in the nest. they were greeny white and very large. the foxy gentleman admired them immensely. he used to turn them over and count them when jemima was not there. at last jemima told him that she intended to begin to sit next day--"and i will bring a bag of corn with me, so that i need never leave my nest until the eggs are hatched. they might catch cold," said the conscientious jemima. [illustration] "madam, i beg you not to trouble yourself with a bag; i will provide oats. but before you commence your tedious sitting, i intend to give you a treat. let us have a dinner-party all to ourselves! "may i ask you to bring up some herbs from the farm-garden to make a savoury omelette? sage and thyme, and mint and two onions, and some parsley. i will provide lard for the stuff--lard for the omelette," said the hospitable gentleman with sandy whiskers. [illustration] jemima puddle-duck was a simpleton: not even the mention of sage and onions made her suspicious. she went round the farm-garden, nibbling off snippets of all the different sorts of herbs that are used for stuffing roast duck. [illustration] and she waddled into the kitchen, and got two onions out of a basket. the collie-dog kep met her coming out, "what are you doing with those onions? where do you go every afternoon by yourself, jemima puddle-duck?" jemima was rather in awe of the collie; she told him the whole story. the collie listened, with his wise head on one side; he grinned when she described the polite gentleman with sandy whiskers. [illustration] he asked several questions about the wood, and about the exact position of the house and shed. then he went out, and trotted down the village. he went to look for two fox-hound puppies who were out at walk with the butcher. [illustration] jemima puddle-duck went up the cart-road for the last time, on a sunny afternoon. she was rather burdened with bunches of herbs and two onions in a bag. she flew over the wood, and alighted opposite the house of the bushy long-tailed gentleman. [illustration] he was sitting on a log; he sniffed the air, and kept glancing uneasily round the wood. when jemima alighted he quite jumped. "come into the house as soon as you have looked at your eggs. give me the herbs for the omelette. be sharp!" he was rather abrupt. jemima puddle-duck had never heard him speak like that. she felt surprised, and uncomfortable. [illustration] while she was inside she heard pattering feet round the back of the shed. some one with a black nose sniffed at the bottom of the door, and then locked it. jemima became much alarmed. [illustration] a moment afterwards there were most awful noises--barking, baying, growls and howls, squealing and groans. and nothing more was ever seen of that foxy-whiskered gentleman. presently kep opened the door of the shed, and let out jemima puddle-duck. [illustration] unfortunately the puppies rushed in and gobbled up all the eggs before he could stop them. he had a bite on his ear and both the puppies were limping. [illustration] jemima puddle-duck was escorted home in tears on account of those eggs. [illustration] she laid some more in june, and she was permitted to keep them herself: but only four of them hatched. jemima puddle-duck said that it was because of her nerves; but she had always been a bad sitter. [illustration] the ducks and the frogs by ff boston joseph.h.francis mdcccxlix. [illustration] the ducks & the frogs, a tale of the bogs. by fanny fire-fly the ducks and the frogs, a tale of the bogs. by fanny fire-fly. with engravings by hartwell, from designs by billings. boston: joseph h. francis. m dccc xlix. entered according to act of congress, in the year 1848, by alonzo hartwell, in the clerk's office of the district court of the district of massachusetts. white & potter, printers, j. w. wilcox, electrotyper a. hartwell, wood engraver. littleton, mass. [illustration] the ducks and the frogs it chanced upon a certain day, when cheerful summer, bright and gay, had brought once more her gift of flowers, to dress anew her pleasant bowers; when birds and insects on the wing made all the air with music ring; when sunshine smiled on dell and knoll, two ducks set forth to take a stroll. 'twas morning; and each grassy bank of cooling dew had deeply drank- each fair young flower was holding up its sweet and freshly painted cup, filled with bright dew drops, every one; gay, sparkling treasures for the sun, who bears them lightly to the sky, holds them as vapor far on high, till with his rays in dazzling tints, the rainbow on the cloud he paints. but our two ducks we'll not forget, they were not troubled by the wet; they rambled on, and soon they took the path that led them to a brook, [illustration] whose sparkling waters danced along, with a gushing, rushing, rippling song. the ramblers, when they reached the brink, stepped down to bathe, and take a drink. they loved to frolic, dive and dash beneath the water with a splash. they washed and smoothed each glossy feather, then said, "let's have a swim together!" as moving gracefully, they went, they heard loud tones of sad lament. they listened, and did sharply look for cause of woe in that sweet brook; and soon espied beneath some bushes, among the reeds and tall, green rushes, a company of long-faced frogs, a delegation from the bogs; sitting with their up-turned faces, in attitudes to please the graces, around a stone, on which was speaking a member of this grave marsh meeting. the ducks were pleased; they knew them all, for very often they did call at that sweet brook, to hear them sing; they thought their music quite the thing. "and now," said they, "we will draw near," for much they wished to see and hear what was this fuss and noise about, so joined the party to find out. the frogs received them with a smirk, and gave their hands with nervous jerk. bowing and smiling in return, the ducks prepared themselves to learn [illustration] from what the orator might say, the cause of all their friends' dismay. now the chief speaker in this scene, dressed in a suit of bottle green, folding his arms across his breast, again the meeting thus addressed: "my friends," said he, "i'm rather hoarse, and must be brief in my discourse; but as these ducks have joined our band, i wish to have them understand we have not come to this fair spot, to break the peace or hatch a plot; but we have met to form a plan to waken in the heart of man, pity for our sad condition. we would present a grave petition, beseeching of the men who rule, that we, lone dwellers of the pool, may be permitted to reside in safety, with our scanty tribe. we humbly say there's no occasion, to send an army of invasion into our loved and quiet bogs, to murder happy, harmless frogs. take our own dear sons and daughters, drag them from their winter quarters, then, when no heart with pity melts, to cut them up as food for smelts! think what a very shocking fate, caught and killed, and used as bait, to take those harmless little fishes to multiply man's dainty dishes." now, as the frog this sentence spoke, _each brother gave a solemn croak._ the gentleman in bottle-green was quite exhausted by his theme; he paused a moment, wiped his brow; then said, "i think you will allow we've been a persecuted race, since first on earth we had a place. there is, i'm told, a land called france, where all the people sing and dance- and they acquire their easy grace by living on our helpless race; and though i say it with a sigh, 'tis this that makes them all so spry." puffing for breath, the speaker stopped and quickly from the stone he hopped. the ducks, while listening to this tale, had felt their very hearts turn pale. at length, the largest of the two, a handsome drake, in green and blue, arose, and opening wide his beak, _bowed, coughed_, and then began to speak. "neighbors, i'm not a coward bird- but the sad story i have heard, would cause the boldest one to quake, and makes my every feather shake. i like the plan that you propose, to write a list of these your woes, and ask for mercy from these men; but have it done by some smart pen; if stated by some able writer, i think your fortunes may be brighter." [illustration] just at this moment, up there sprung a frog quite pert, for one so young; said he, "i vote for emigration, 'twill save us all this botheration!" our proud drake turned, in great surprise, while grave rebuke flashed from his eyes. said he, "it makes my blood run cold, to see young folks so smart and bold. there's not a duckling of my brood, that would presume to be thus rude; young sir, i will a lesson give, that may be useful while you live: wait till your counsel others seek, and then think twice before you speak! for you, the elders of this tribe, i hope you here will still reside. in every pleasant brook and marsh, you'll meet with cares and trials harsh; if you'll but try to be contented, much that's wrong will be prevented. my lady duck and i 'tis plain, are wiser than when here we came. we thought our lot was very hard, when shut within the poultry yard; although 'tis large, and well supplied with water, and all else beside for happiness and comfort too, yet much we wished for something new. our wings are clipped, we cannot fly, and this too costs us many a sigh. we seldom pass our owner's gate, he keeps his poultry rather straight. we should not have been out to-day, but duck and i just ran away; and as we came to bathe this morn, fretful we felt, and quite forlorn; we thought our lot in life so sad, and all our troubles quite too bad. could we have got our brood away, we had quit town this very day. as gloomily we stepped along, the air was filled with many a song from happy creatures, gay and bright, rejoicing in the morning light. the dew, o'er flowers and trees was flung, like diamonds pure, in drops it hung; all nature seemed reproaching us, for making all this dismal fuss. but we grew calmer as we walked, of all these cheering things we talked. and hearing all your griefs and sighs, much better feelings did arise. for let me tell you, friends and brothers, listening to the woes of others, and pitying their deep distress, will ever make our own seem less. then patience whispers, (pray regard her,) your lot though hard, might still be harder. now, gossips, i am tired of speaking, our ducklings too we must be seeking; although it makes our heart-strings quiver, to see yon bright and pleasant river; and hearing its cool waters splashing, we long beneath them to be dashing. yet we must close this visitation, and without farther hesitation, resist our very strong desire, and cheerful to our homes retire. our kindest wishes rest with you, so, now good friends, we'll bid adieu." the ducks then smoothed each ruffled feather, and gracefully walked off together. the frogs with courtesy arose, and stretched themselves high on their toes; and so far conquered all their fears, they gave their friends three parting cheers! then as they sank upon the grass, this resolution they did pass: "here, now, before we separate, we pledge ourselves, to bear our fate with patience; and if ill betide, we'll try to find some brighter side. our homes with cheerful tones shall ring, and over every care _we'll spring_." they stopped; each folded his green dress about him with much cheerfulness; shook hands all round, and said "good day," then merrily they _hopped away_. [illustration] when these bright people all were gone, and i sat musing quite alone, out of this their simple preaching, came the lesson they'd been teaching. each little reader too can see what seems so very clear to me. * * * * * 'tis this: that dark-browed discontent must from our hearts be quickly sent; whate'er may be our daily lot, think all is well, and grumble not; a generous pity feel for all, and charity for great and small. one other hint we also find, that children all should bear in mind, treat aged people--strangers too, with reverence; it is their due. take warning from that frog so young, and keep a bridle on the tongue! these teachings seem so very plain, we hope they are not given in vain. [illustration: the end.] [illustration: boston joseph. h. francis mdcccxlix.] note: project gutenberg also has an html version of this file which includes the numerous original illustrations. see 18884-h.htm or 18884-h.zip: (http://www.gutenberg.net/dirs/1/8/8/8/18884/18884-h/18884-h.htm) or (http://www.gutenberg.net/dirs/1/8/8/8/18884/18884-h.zip) ducks at a distance a waterfowl identification guide by bob hines department of the interior u.s. fish and wildlife service washington, d.c. 1978 table of contents identification is important what to look for eclipse plumage species identification: puddle ducks mallard pintail gadwall wigeon shoveler blue-winged teal cinnamon teal green-winged teal wood duck black duck diving ducks canvasback redheads ringneck scaup goldeneye bufflehead ruddy red-breasted merganser common merganser hooded merganser whistling ducks white-winged scoter surf scoter black scoter common eider oldsquaw harlequin swans canada geese brant snow white-fronted geese at a glance guide comparative sizes of waterfowl wetlands attract wildlife administrative waterfowl flyways identification is important identifying waterfowl gives many hours of enjoyment to millions of people. this guide will help you recognize birds on the wing--it emphasizes their fall and winter plumage patterns as well as size, shape, and flight characteristics. it does not include local names. recognizing the species of ducks and geese can be rewarding to birdwatchers and hunters--and the ducks. hunters can contribute to their own sport by not firing at those species that are either protected or scarce, and needed as breeders to restore the flocks. it can add to their daily limit; when extra birds of certain species can be taken legally, hunters who know their ducks on the wing come out ahead. knowing a mallard from a merganser has another side: gourmets prefer a corn-fed mallard to the fish duck. what to look for differences in size, shape, plumage patterns and colors, wing beat, flocking behavior, voice, and habitat--all help to distinguish one species from another. flock maneuvers in the air are clues. mallards, pintails, and wigeon form loose groups; teal and shovelers flash by in small, compact bunches; at a distance, canvasbacks shift from waving lines to temporary v's. closer up, individual silhouettes are important. variations of head shapes and sizes, lengths of wings and tails, and fat bodies or slim can be seen. within shotgun range, color areas can be important. light conditions might make them look different, but their size and location are positive keys. the sound of their wings can help as much as their calls. flying goldeneyes make a whistling sound; wood ducks move with a swish; canvasbacks make a steady rushing sound. not all ducks quack; many whistle, squeal, or grunt. although not a hard and fast rule, different species tend to use different types of habitat. puddle ducks like shallow marshes and creeks while divers prefer larger, deeper, and more open waters. eclipse plumage most ducks shed their body feathers twice each year. nearly all drakes lose their bright plumage after mating, and for a few weeks resemble females. this hen-like appearance is called the eclipse plumage. the return to breeding coloration varies in species and individuals of each species. blue-winged teal and shovelers may retain the eclipse plumage until well into the winter. wing feathers are shed only once a year; wing colors are always the same. puddle ducks puddle ducks are typically birds of fresh, shallow marshes and rivers rather than of large lakes and bays. they are good divers, but usually feed by dabbling or tipping rather than submerging. the speculum, or colored wing patch, is generally iridescent and bright, and often a telltale field mark. any duck feeding in croplands will likely be a puddle duck, for most of this group are sure-footed and can walk and run well on land. their diet is mostly vegetable, and grain-fed mallards or pintails or acorn-fattened wood ducks are highly regarded as food. mallard length--24" weight--2¾ lbs. the mallard is our most common duck, found in all flyways. the males are often called "greenheads." the main wintering area is the lower mississippi basin, and along the gulf coast, but many stay as far north as open waters permits. flocks often feed in early morning and late afternoon in nearby harvested fields, returning to marshes and creeks to spend the night. the flight is not particularly rapid. hens have a loud _quack_; the drake's voice is a low-pitched _kwek-kwek_. pintail length--26" weight--1¾ lbs. these ducks use all four flyways, but are most plentiful in the west. they are extremely graceful and fast fliers, fond of zig-zagging from great heights before leveling off to land. the long neck and tail make them appear longer than mallards, but in body size and weight they are smaller. they are agile on land and often feed in grain fields. the drakes whistle; the hens have a coarse _quack_. gadwall length--21" weight--2 lbs. gadwalls are most numerous in the central flyway, but not too common anywhere. they are often called "gray mallards" or "gray ducks." they are one of the earliest migrants, seldom facing cold weather. they are the only puddle ducks with a white speculum. small, compact flocks fly swiftly, usually in a direct line. wingbeats are rapid. drakes whistle and _kack-kack_; hens _quack_ like a mallard, but softer. wigeon length--21" weight--1¾ lbs. these are nervous birds, quick to take alarm. their flight is fast, irregular, with many twists and turns. in a bunched flock, their movements have been compared to those of pigeons. when open water is handy, wigeons often raft up offshore until late afternoon when they move to marshes and ponds to feed. the white belly and forewing are very showy in the air. drakes whistle; hens have a loud _kaow_ and a lower _qua-awk_. shoveler length--19½" weight--1½ lbs. shovelers, 'spoonbills' to many, are early migrants, moving out at the first frost. the largest numbers are in the central and pacific flyways. the usual flight is steady and direct. when startled, the small flocks twist and turn in the air like teal. they are not highly regarded as table birds, because one third of the usual diet is animal matter. drakes call _woh-woh_ and _took-took_; the hen's _quack_ is feeble. blue-winged teal length--16" weight--15 oz. their small size and twisting turning flight gives the illusion of great speed. the small, compact flocks commonly fly low over the marshes, and often take the hunter by surprise. they are more vocal than most ducks--their high-pitched peeping and nasal quacking is commonly heard in spring and to a lesser extent in fall. these teal are among the first ducks to migrate each fall, and one of the last in the spring. cinnamon teal in the pacific flyway, cinnamon teal are far more common than blue-wings. the hens look alike and the habits of both species are similar. the pale blue forewing patch is the best field mark, as drakes are usually in eclipse until january or longer. drakes have a whistling _peep_; hens utter a low _quack_. green-winged teal length--15 in. weight--14 oz. quite hardy--some birds stay as far north as open water is found. the smallest and one of the most common of our ducks. their tiny size gives the impression of great speed, but mallards can fly faster. their flight is often low, erratic, with the entire flock twisting and turning as one unit. they nest as far north as alaska, and migrate in all four flyways. early fall drakes are usually still in full eclipse plumage. drakes whistle and twitter; hens have a slight _quack_. wood duck length--18½ in. weight--1½ lbs. found in all flyways; most numerous in the atlantic and mississippi flyways and fewest in the central. they are early migrants; most of them have left the northern states by mid-november. frequents wooded streams and ponds; perches in trees. flies through thick timber with speed and ease and often feeds on acorns, berries, and grapes on the forest floors. flight is swift and direct; flocks are usually small. in the air, their wings make a rustling, swishing sound. drakes call _hoo-w-ett_, often in flight; hens have a _cr-r-ek_ when frightened. black duck length--24 in. weight--2¾ lbs. a bird of the eastern states, primarily the atlantic flyway and, to a lesser extent, the mississippi. shy and wary, regarded as the wariest of all ducks. often seen in company of mallards, but along the atlantic coast frequents the salt marshes and ocean much more than mallards. flight is swift, usually in small flocks. white wing lining in contrast to very dark body plumage is a good identification clue. the hen's _quack_ and the drake's _kwek-kwek_ are duplicates of the mallards. diving ducks diving ducks frequent the larger, deeper lakes and rivers, and coastal bays and inlets. the colored wing patches of these birds lack the brilliance of the speculums of puddle ducks. since many of them have short tails, their huge, paddle feet may be used as rudders in flight, and are often visible on flying birds. when launching into flight, most of this group patter along the water before becoming airborne. they feed by diving, often to considerable depths. to escape danger, they can travel great distances underwater, emerging only enough to show their head before submerging again. their diets of fish, shellfish, mollusks, and aquatic plants make them second choice, as a group, for sportsmen. canvasbacks and redheads fattened on eel grass or wild celery are notable exceptions. since their wings are smaller in proportion to the size and weight of their bodies, they have a more rapid wingbeat than puddle ducks. canvasback length--22 in. weight--3 lbs. normally late to start south, canvasbacks migrate in lines and irregular v's. in feeding areas, compact flocks fly in indefinite formations. their wingbeat is rapid and noisy; their speed is the swiftest of all our ducks. feeding behavior is highly variable. in some areas they feed at night and spend the day rafted up in open waters; in other areas they feed inshore mornings and evenings. on the water, body size and head shape distinguish them from scaups and redheads. drakes _croak_, _peep_, and _growl_; hens have a mallard-like _quack_. redheads length--20 in. weight--2½ lbs. range coast to coast, with the largest numbers in the central flyway. migratory flocks travel in v's; move in irregular formations over feeding areas. often found associating with canvasback. in the air, they give the impression of always being in a hurry. usually spend the day in large rafts in deep water; feed morning and evening in shallower sections. drakes _purr_ and _meow_; hens have a loud _squak_, higher than a hen mallard's. ringneck length--17 in. weight--2½ lbs. similar in appearance to scaups, but more often found in fresh marshes and wooded ponds. in flight, the dark wings are different from the white-edged wings of scaup. faint brown ring on drake's neck never shows in the field; light bands at tip and base of bill are conspicuous. fly as small flocks in open formation; often land without circling. drakes _purr_; hens are usually silent. scaup greater--length--18½ in. weight--2 lbs. lesser--length--17 in. weight--1-7/8 lbs. except for the wing marks, greater and lesser scaup appear nearly identical in the field. the light band near the trailing edges of the wings runs almost to the tip in the greater scaup, but only about half way in the lesser. greater scaup prefer large open water areas; lesser scaup often use marshes and ponds. both species migrate late, sometimes just before freezeup. flock movements are rapid, often erratic, usually in compact groups. hens are silent; drake lesser scaup _purr_; drake greater scaup have a discordant _scaup, scaup_. goldeneye common--length--19 in. weight--2¼ lbs. barrow's--length--19 in. weight--2¾ lbs. these are active, strong-winged fliers moving singly or in small flocks, often high in the air. distinctive wing-whistling sound in flight has earned the name of whistlers. goldeneyes generally move south late in the season; most of them winter on coastal waters and the great lakes. inland, they like rapids and fast water. barrow's goldeneye, predominantly a westerner, is less wary than the common goldeneye. hens of both species are look-alikes. drakes have a piercing _speer-speer_--hens a low _quack_. both are usually quiet. bufflehead length--14½ in. weight--1 lb. stragglers migrate south in mid-fall, but the largest numbers move just ahead of freezeup. most flocks in feeding areas are small--5 or 6 birds, with more hens and immatures than adult drakes. very small size, bold black and white color pattern, and low, swift flight are field marks. unlike most divers, they can fly straight up from a watery takeoff. largest concentrations are on both seacoasts and along the gulf of mexico. inland, they will remain as far north as open water permits. usually silent. drakes _squeak_ and have a guttural note; hens _quack_ weakly. ruddy length--15½ in. weight--1-1/3 lbs. the ruddy duck often dives or swims away from danger rather than flying. when flying, their small wings stroke so fast they resemble bumblebees. they are early to mid-fall migrants. drakes often cock their tails upright at an angle, the only species to habitually do so. both hens and drakes are silent in the fall. red-breasted merganser length--23 in. weight--2½ lbs. these birds winter most abundantly in coastal waters, including the gulf of mexico, and to a lesser extent, the great lakes. their flight, strong and direct, is usually low over the water. they are difficult to distinguish in flight from the common merganser. voice: seldom heard. common merganser length--25½ in. weight--2½ lbs. this species is larger than the red-breasted merganser, and is one of the largest of our ducks. it is one of the last to migrate south, and is more common than the red-breasted merganser on inland waters. flocks move in "follow the leader" style, low over the water. the only call seems to be a startled _croak_. hooded merganser length--18 in. weight--1½ lbs. often seen in pairs, or very small flocks. short rapid wingstrokes create an impression of great speed. winters in the inland waters of all coastal states; seldom goes to salt water. voice: seldom heard in fall. whistling ducks length--18-19 in. weight--1¾ lbs. the trailing legs and rounded wings of these slow flying ducks makes them look bigger than they are. both species are primarily mexican. in the u.s., the black-bellied is found only in south texas and louisiana. the fulvous also occurs there and in florida with occasional stragglers further north along both coasts and the mississippi valley. the fulvous is the more common of the two species in the united states. sexes are alike. both species have shrill whistling calls. white-winged scoter length--21½ in. weight--3½ lbs. the three scoters on these two pages are sea ducks, wintering on open coastal waters. white-wings are among the heaviest and largest of all ducks. surf scoter length--19½ in. weight--2 lbs. like all scoters, these birds move along our coasts in loose flocks, stringing into irregular, wavy lines. drakes can be distinguished from other scoters by two white patches on their head and the bright color of the bill. flight is strong, direct, usually close to the waves. black scoter length--19½ in. weight--2½ lbs. in flight, drakes appear all black except for the flash of the slight gray underwing and the bright yellow swelling at the base of the upper bill. scoters feed on mollusks, crabs, and some fish and very little vegetation. they are locally known as "coots." common eider length--23½ in. weight--5 lbs. thick-necked stocky birds, alternately flapping and sailing in flight; flocks string out in a line, close to the water. occurs in the united states chiefly along new england coasts and occasionally south to new jersey. other eiders--king, spectacled and stellar's--occur in alaska and are not pictured in this guide. king eiders occasionally are found in north atlantic coastal waters. oldsquaw length--20½ in. weight--2 lbs. a slim, brightly plumaged sea duck. smaller than the scoters or eiders. flight is swift and low with constantly changing flock formations. ranges along both coasts and the great lakes. one of the most vocal of ducks; drakes have a loud pleasant _caloo, caloo_, constantly heard. harlequin length--17 in. weight--1½ lbs. glossy slate-blue plumage enlivened by white stripes and spots give the adult male harlequin a striking appearance. the female resembles a small female scoter. at a distance, both sexes look black. flight is swift, with abrupt turns. flocks are small and compact. ranges both coasts, north from new jersey and san francisco. uncommon. swans trumpeter--length--59 in. weight--28 lbs. whistling--length--52 in. weight--16 lbs. once thought to be rare, trumpeter swans are slowly increasing in alaska and on western refuges and parks. whistling swans are common and increasing. they winter near chesapeake bay, san francisco bay, puget sound and salton sea. occasionally found in fields. both species are large with pure white plumage. canada geese numerous and popular, canada geese are often called "honkers." includes several races varying in weight from 3 to over 12 pounds. all have black heads and necks, white cheeks, similar habitats and voices. sexes are identical. brant length--24-25 in. weight--3¼ 3¾ lbs. these are sea geese, the blacks wintering south to baja, california, in the pacific. the atlantic race winters from virginia northward. flight is swift, in irregular and changing flock patterns. snow geese length--29-31 in. weight--6½-7½ lbs. two races of snow geese are recognized: greater snows along the atlantic coast, and lesser snows elsewhere on the continent. blue geese are a color phase of the lesser snow. white-fronted geese length--29 in. weight--6¼ lbs. migrates chiefly in the central and pacific flyways but also present in the mississippi. rare in the atlantic flyway. appears brownish gray at a distance. often called "specklebelly". most distinctive characteristic of the v-shaped flocks is the high pitched call _kow-kow-kow-kow_. comparative sizes of waterfowl all birds on these pages are drawn to the same scale. wetlands attract wildlife there's more than just ducks in our marshes. knowing and identifying other birds and animals add to the enjoyment of being in a blind. the same sources of food and shelter that draw waterfowl to ponds and marshes also attract other forms of wildlife. protected species are sometimes more numerous than ducks or geese. money from duck stamp sales is used exclusively to purchase wetlands, preserving areas for ducks, geese, and all wildlife for the enjoyment and pleasure of hunters and non-hunters alike. administrative waterfowl flyways waterfowl flyways the term "flyway" has long been used to designate the migration routes of birds. for management purposes, four waterfowl flyways--pacific, central, mississippi, and atlantic--were established in the united states in 1948. to varying degrees the waterfowl populations using each of these flyways differ in abundance, species composition, migration pathways, and breeding ground origin. there are differences, also, in levels of shooting pressure and harvest. for the most part flyway boundaries follow state lines. however, the boundary between the pacific and the central flyway general follows the continental divide. there are some problems in matching waterfowl migration corridors with flyway boundaries because some species nest and winter in areas that do not occur along a north-south axis. these species cross flyway boundaries during migration. on balance, the present arrangement is useful in that it permits reasonable management of waterfowl. at some future time, it is possible that further rearrangement of boundaries may permit better management of the waterfowl resource. flyway councils in 1952, flyway councils were formed in each of the four flyways. the council in each flyway is made up of representatives from the wildlife agencies of the states in that flyway--one representative from each state. the councils study flyway problems, develop waterfowl management recommendations, and generally work closely with the u.s. fish and wildlife service in implementing waterfowl management and research programs. u.s. government printing office: 1978 o--247-777 for sale by the superintendent of documents, u.s. government printing office washington, d.c. 20402 stock no. 024-010-00442-8 created in 1849, the department of the interior--america's department of natural resources--is concerned with the management, conservation, and development of the nation's water, fish, wildlife, mineral, forest, and park and recreational resources. it also has major responsibilities for indian and territorial affairs. as the nation's principal conservation agency, the department works to assure that nonrenewable resources are developed and used wisely, that park and recreational resources are conserved for the future, and that renewable resources make their full contribution to the progress, prosperity, and security of the united states--now and in the future. file was produced from images generously made available by the university of florida digital collections.) [illustration: sheep and lambs.] [illustration: violet stories] bessie's country stories. six volumes. the sheep and lamb. the young donkey. the little rabbit-keepers. the cock of the walk. the cows in the water. the young angler. bessie's country stories. the sheep and lamb. by thomas miller. _illustrated._ new york: sheldon and company. 1871. entered, according to act of congress, in the year 1868, by sheldon and company, in the clerk's office of the district court of the southern district of new york. electrotyped at the boston stereotype foundry, no. 19 spring lane. the sheep and lamb. the pet lamb. where you see the square church-tower, in the picture of the "sheep and lamb," stands the pretty village of greenham, hidden behind the trees. the sheep and lambs that appear so little, because they are such a way off, are grazing on greenham common. the two that are so near you, and the pet lamb, round the neck of which the little boy has placed his arm, are in a small paddock, often called a croft, close, or field, that is separated from the common by a bank, on the top of which the little child sits who is feeding the sheep. the girl holding the child, and the boy looking over his shoulder, live at greenham, and have come across the common to ask how johnny's father is, and to look at his pet lamb. you will notice that johnny looks very grave and sad; and well he may, for his father has met with an accident, and has not been able to do any work for several weeks, and is so poor that he will be forced to sell his two sheep and johnny's pet lamb to pay the rent of his cottage. you cannot see the cottage in the picture, nor anything but a bit of the little field that lies at the back of it, in which the boy sits fondling his lamb. that girl is servant in a great farm-house, though she does very little besides looking after the children and feeding the poultry, for they keep great strong servant girls where she lives, to milk, and brew, and cook, and wash, and clean, and make butter and cheese in the dairy. she is a girl with a very feeling heart, and the two boys she has brought across the common are very fond of her, and many a merry romp do they have together. "so, father is not able to get about yet," she says to johnny, "and he is going to sell your pet lamb to pay the rent? i am so sorry, johnny, and wish i were a rich lady; then your lamb should not be sold. but i am only a poor girl, and have but a shilling a week and my victuals." the tears stood in johnny's eyes, and he folded the lamb tighter in his arms, and said, "it's a deal fonder of me than our gip, for he runs away from me, and barks at everything he sees. it follows me everywhere, and licks my face and hands, and if i pretend to run away and hide myself, it stands and looks about, and bleats for me, just as it used to do when it was quite a little thing, and wanted its mammy. father says i mustn't cry; he hopes he shall get well soon, and next spring i shall have another pet lamb, and he won't sell that until it's a great fat sheep. but i can't help it; and i shall never have another little lamb i shall be so fond of as this, shall i?" and he drew the lamb closer to him, and looked very tenderly at it when he said "shall i?" and the lamb went "ba-a-a," as if it said, as well as it could, "no, never;" then it lay down, with its pretty head on his arm. "i'll tell you what i'll do, johnny," said the little boy who stood behind his brother close to the tree, "i'll give you one of my lambs, for father has given me two to do what i like with; then your father can sell it, for it's bigger than yours, and you can still keep your own pet lamb. come with me, polly, and help to drive it here, and make it jump over the bank; then you won't cry, will you, johnny?" "no," said johnny, crying harder than ever, for the kindness of the rich farmer's little son touched johnny's tender heart as much as the sorrow he felt for the loss of his lamb, which he came to bid farewell to, as the butcher was coming with his cart in the cool of the evening to take it away, along with its mother and another fat sheep. polly, who was a strong girl of her age, at once snatched up the little boy, who was sitting on the bank feeding the sheep, and ran off with him in her arms to help charley to drive his lamb off the common--where it was feeding--into the little close, to be in readiness for the butcher when he came with his cart. they had some trouble with it, for it had not been petted like johnny's; and charley had many pets that he cared more for than he did for his lambs. when it was driven off the common, and made to jump over the bank into the paddock where johnny still sat fondling his pet lamb--and not until then--that artful little polly said, "ought not you to have asked your father first, master charley, before you gave johnny one of your lambs?" "what should i ask father for, when he gave them to me to do what i liked with--sell, or give away, or anything?" asked charley; and there was a proud expression in his handsome face, which brought the color to polly's cheeks, and made her feel that she had no right to interfere, though she had "aided and abetted," inasmuch as she had helped to drive the lamb into the little close. "i shall look out to-night for butcher page's white horse," said charley, "and when he passes our door, cut across the corner of the common, and be here before him, johnny, and help to drive the sheep and lamb out, and tie yours up to the apple-tree until he's gone. don't say anything to your father and mother until butcher page has gone." johnny promised he wouldn't, so went in-doors, his lamb following him, while the one charley had given him made himself quite at home, and began nibbling away at a little patch of white clover which grew in one corner of the field. johnny's father was a hard-working laboring man; but farm labor is so poorly paid for in most country places, that it is very difficult to save up more than a few shillings against sickness or accidents, which often happen unaware, as was the case with him; for the shaft-horse chanced to back suddenly, as he was going to fasten a gate, and the wagon wheel went over his foot and crushed it. he had not been able to work for several weeks; and though his master was kind to him in sending little things from the farm, he knew he must not expect him to pay his rent, and to do that he had to sell his two sheep and johnny's pet lamb for a few pounds to butcher page. he was a kind-hearted man; for as soon as the lamb entered the cottage it went up to him, and as he patted its pretty head, he sighed heavily, for he felt almost as much troubled at parting with it as did little johnny. you will seldom see a dumb animal go up to anybody, of its own accord, that is not kind to all god's creatures. they seem to know who loves them and who does not. dogs, more than any other animals, seem gifted with the power of finding out those who are kind and those who are not. one strange boy shall pat a dog, and he will begin to wag his tail, while he growls if another boy only strokes him. i always like the boy best that the dog is pleased with. johnny's lamb laid its head on his father's knee, and while he patted it he shut his eyes, as if it were painful for him to look at the pretty creature necessity compelled him to part with. it then went bleating up to johnny's mother to be noticed, and as she stooped down to kiss it she had to "button up" her eyes very tight indeed to keep in the tears. johnny kept his secret faithfully, and said not a word about the lamb his friend charley had given him. instead of running across the corner of the common in the evening, charley and polly, with his little brother sitting in her lap, came riding up to the cottage in the cart with the butcher; for mr. page had to call at the great farm-house on his way through greenham about some fat calves he wanted to purchase of charley's father. polly asked if the children might ride with him, for she was very anxious about johnny's pet lamb; and, as she said to charley, "i shan't feel that it's quite safe until i see mr. page drive back without it." johnny's father was too lame to assist in getting the sheep and lamb into the cart, so polly and charley drove them out of the small close behind the cottage, while johnny minded the little boy, who sat with his tiny arms round the lamb's neck, kissing it, and saying "so pitty," for he could not talk plain enough to say "pretty." "surely this can't be the same lamb i bargained for a week ago," said the butcher, as he was about to lift it into the cart; "why, it's got four or five pounds more meat on his back. you must give johnny this shilling for himself. it's a much fatter lamb than i took it to be," and he gave the shilling for johnny to his mother, after looking around, and not seeing the boy. having paid the mother for the sheep and lamb, he drove off, and the poor dumb animals stood quiet, and seemed as happy in the cart as children who are only going away for a drive. how different they would look when put into the shed adjoining the slaughter-house, where so many sheep and lambs had been driven in to be killed. what a blessing it is that we do not know beforehand what is going to happen to us, for if we did, how wretched we should feel, counting the hours and days until the evil befell us, and living a life of misery all the time. nor is it ourselves alone that would be made miserable, but our parents, and all who love us; so that, however painful death may be, it is one of god's greatest mercies not to let us know when death, which comes to all, will come. this is not hard to understand, if you will be very still, and forgetting everything else, think about it. the two sheep and the little lamb, as they were driven along the pretty country road in the butcher's cart, could have no more thought that they were carried away to be killed, than you would that some terrible accident might happen to you, if taken out for a ride. no sooner had the butcher driven off than polly ran into the little meadow, clapping her hands, and exclaiming, "all right, johnny! he's gone!" then she stooped down and kissed the pretty lamb, which began to lick her brown, sun-tanned cheek, as if to show how grateful it was; for the few kind words she had uttered were the means of saving it from the butcher's knife. when the children returned home across the common, and after they had finished their supper of home-made brown bread and rich new milk, charley went and stood between his father's legs, for the rich farmer was smoking his pipe, and had a jug of ale of his own brewing before him. charley was deep enough to know that when his father was enjoying his pipe and jug of ale, after the day's labor was done, he was always in a good humor, and while polly stood fidgeting and watching him, biting the corner of her blue pinafore all the time, and "wishing it was over," charley looked up with his bold truthful eyes, and said, "please, father, i gave johnny giles one of my lambs to-day to sell to the butcher, so that he might keep his own, which he is so fond of; it's such a pet, and he was crying so, and mr. page would have taken it away to-night in his cart if i hadn't given him mine, for you know johnny's father is lame, and poor, and can't do any work, and so had to sell his two sheep and--" "johnny's pet lamb too," said the farmer, interrupting him, but still stroking charley's hair while speaking. "well, charley, it was your own lamb, to do what you liked with; but i should have liked johnny's father better if he had sent word to let me know that he had sold your lamb instead of his own." "please, sir, he doesn't know that butcher page didn't take away johnny's lamb in the cart," said polly, rushing to the rescue, "because we kept it in the little croft, and drove charley's lamb out instead, for little johnny had been crying so all day that it made us all sorry to see it." "i felt sure you had had a finger in the pie, polly," said the farmer, looking kindly on his little maid, and well knowing how fond she was of his dear children. "and now, sir," continued the farmer, looking at charley as sternly as he could, while a pleasant smile played about his mouth, plainly showing that the knitted brows were but drawn down in make-believe anger, "this is the way i shall punish you." polly saw the smile, and knew it was all right, and that there would be no punishment at all, though little charley looked rather frightened. "as you have given one of your lambs away to please yourself, you must give the other away to please me. drive it into mr. giles's little croft to-morrow morning, and, as it might miss its mother, let her go with it; then, when the lamb grows to be a sheep, johnny's father will have two sheep again besides his pet lamb. now kiss me, and say your prayers to polly, and be off to bed." "o, i'm so glad!" exclaimed polly, clapping her hands, while the tears stood in her eyes, as she came up to take charley away from his father. "i'm sure you are, polly, for you've a kind heart," said the farmer, kissing the little maid as well, "and now be off with you;" and five minutes after he was busy examining his stock-book, and seeing how many fat bullocks, heifers, calves, sheep, and lambs he had ready for market, and thinking no more of the value of the ewe he had ordered to be driven to the little croft of the lamed laborer, than he did of the second jug of ale he had sent one of his servants to draw from the cask. now polly, though but a poor cottager's daughter, and having only, as she had said, "a shilling a week and her victuals" as wages at the rich farmer's was a thoughtful little maid; and fearing that johnny's father and mother might be unhappy when they found that charley's lamb had been sold instead of their own, she set off full run to mr. giles's cottage, before she went to bed, to tell them all about the sheep and the other lamb which she and charley were to drive into the close in the morning, and how pleased her good master was at what charley had done. johnny was seated, fast asleep, on a little rush hassock, with his head on his mother's knee, and one arm round the neck of the pet lamb, which was coiled up before the fire; and when she had made known the good tidings, and kissed both johnny and his lamb, she started off back as fast as she came, for the bats were already flying about, snapping at the insects, and she heard an owl hooting from the trees that overhung the road she was running along. no one lay down to sleep in the beautiful village of greenham on that calm, sweet night, when spring was treading close on the flowery border of summer, with a more peaceful mind or happier heart than polly; for she felt that her pity for johnny's sorrow, caused by the thought of his so soon losing his pet lamb, had also been carried to the heart of little charley, and that but for the words she had spoken the pet lamb would then have been shut up at the end of the slaughter-house, where, no doubt, poor lambs were hanging up that had been killed. pretty thing! how could butcher page find in his heart to kill them, so kind a man as he was? and polly fell asleep while trying to puzzle out whether it was not as sinful to kill a sheep as a little lamb, and wishing that roasted lamb was not so nice to eat as it was, with mint sauce. the greedy duckling. [illustration: duck and ducklings.] although you cannot see her cottage, you can look at a portion of the brook that runs by the end of her garden, in which the old white duck and three of her little ducklings are swimming, while the remainder have left the water and got out on the grass to be fed. that is the old woman's little granddaughter who is holding the duckling in both her hands, and kissing it, and the other is her companion, who lives over the hill where you see a little morsel of blue sky between the overhanging leaves, and who has come all the way along that footpath to play with her, and feed the little ducklings. if you notice the duckling the granddaughter is petting, you will see it has got its eye on the food in the little girl's hand; and if you could read its thoughts, you would find it was saying to itself, "o, bother your fuss and stew! i wish you would put me down, and let me gobble up some of that nice new bread before it is all gone. kissing, and patting, and nursing me won't fill my belly, i can tell you; though it's all well enough, when i've eaten until i'm full to the very top of my neck, to snuggle to you and be kept nice and warm, while i have a good long nap." you can see by its eye it's a sly little duckling; and though it pretends to be so fond of the child, lying still and such like, yet it's all of a fidget to get down, and quite envies the little ducklings that are feeding out of the other girl's hand. that is the greedy duckling. now the grandmother is such a funny little old woman, having one leg shorter than the other, which causes her to go up and down as she walks! the villagers call her old hoppity-kick, because, when she walks with her horn-handled stick and moves it along, she goes "hop," and when she moves both her feet she goes "hoppity," and when she pulls up her short leg to start again, she gives a kind of a little "kick" with it; so that what with her long leg, her short leg, and her stick, the noise she makes when she walks rather fast sounds a good deal like "hoppity-kick, hoppity-kick." then she has a sharp, hooked nose, not much unlike the beak of a poll parrot; and she wears round spectacles with horn rims, and these she always calls her "goggles;" and, besides all this, she is hump-backed, and has an old gray cat that is very fond of jumping on her hump, and sitting there when she goes out into her garden, looking about him as well as she does, as if to see how things are getting on. she talks to her old cat, when she has no one else to speak to, just as she does to her granddaughter. she came up one day with her stick in her hand, her goggles on, and the gray cat sitting on her hump, where he went up and down, down and up, at every "hoppity-kick" she gave, and stopped to watch her granddaughter feed the ducklings. "why, what a greedy little duckling that is beside you," said granny, pointing to it with her horn-handled stick; "he doesn't seem willing to let his little brothers and sisters have a taste of the food you are giving them, pecking and flying at them, and driving them off in the way he does. i'm sure he is a nasty, greedy little duckling, and when he gets big enough i'll have him killed." "i don't think he's so greedy, granny," replied the little maid, taking him up in both her hands, and kissing him; "it's only because he's so fond of me, and jealous of the other ducklings when they come close to me. look how still he lies, and how he nestles up to me! he's very fond of me." "humph; fond of you for what he can get, like a good many more in the world," said old granny grunt, while the gray cat gave a "mew, mew," as if to say, "right you are, old granny;" then off she went, "hoppity-kick, hoppity-kick," back again into her cottage, the hem of her quilted petticoat making bobs up and down all the way she went. "you're not a greedy little thing, are you, ducky?" said the little maid to the duckling, kissing it again, when her grandmother and the cat had gone. "it's because you love me so, isn't it? and don't like any of the other little ducklings to be noticed, do you?" "o, what a silly sukey you are!" thought the greedy duckling, laying its head on one side of her face, as if to show it was so fond of her it didn't know what to do. "do you think i would make such a pretended fuss over you as i do if you didn't give me three times as much to eat as any of the rest of the ducklings get? not i. i often feel as if i should like to bite a bit off the end of your silly little nose when you are kissing and fondling me. do you know i would much rather have my head under the water, and be poking about among the mud for worms, little eels, and frogs, and such like things, than have your lips so near me? why, the other day you'd been eating onions; and though i dare say i shall smell strong enough of 'em some day, and sage too, as i've heard your old granny say when i have to be roasted, yet that time won't come yet for a long while, and i don't want to be reminded of my end before it does come. why don't you empty your old granny's jam pots, or her honey jar; that smell wouldn't be so bad to bear as onions,--fah!" now you begin to see what a deal of truth there was in what old granny grunt said, and what a wicked and ungrateful duckling this was, to have such evil thoughts, pretending to be so fond of the little granddaughter all the time. it was quite as bad as if a naughty child, after having as many "goodies" given it as it could eat, made fun of the giver behind the back, while before the face it pretended to be all love, and honey, and sugar. it's deceit, that's what it is, done for what may be got; and if anything, deceit's worse than story-telling, as you pretend to be what you are not, and to feel what you do not, while a story once told is done with, if you don't tell another on the top of it, and have the honesty to confess it was a story when close questioned and you speak the truth. but deceit! it's so dreadfully shocking! it's hypocrisy, and i know not what besides, as you have to keep it up, wear a mask, seem what you are not. o, dear! o, dear! i can't say how bad it is, it's so very bad. now the greedy duckling knew which way the granddaughter came, and used to watch and wait for her, often a good way from the others, when she was coming with food; and if the little girl in the drawn and magenta-colored bonnet happened to be with her, she would say, "look at the dear little duckling! though it's so fat it can hardly waddle, it couldn't stop till i came, but is so fond of me it's come to meet me!" then she began to feed it, giving it as much as ever it could eat, while the other dear ducklings, that were waiting so patiently by the brook, hadn't even so much as a smell, until that nasty, greedy little wretch had been crammed full to the very throat. let us hope he was often troubled with a touch of the bile as a just punishment for his greediness. he was now so fat that he used to fall asleep on the water, and the wind blew him on like a floating feather, while his little brothers and sisters were diving, and swimming, and playing, and splashing about, and having such jolly games as made one quite wish to join them on a hot summer's day. this was the first judgment that overtook him for his greediness: he was too fat to play, and if he tried, puffed and blew like a broken-winded horse, and was out of breath in no time; for his liver was not only out of order, but what little heart he had, and that wasn't much, was buried in fat. he now took to eating out of spite, so that there might be next to nothing left for the other little ducklings. whether he was hungry or not, he would stand in the centre of the food that was thrown down, and though he couldn't eat it himself, bite and fly at every duckling that attempted to touch a morsel. one of his little brothers one day went at him, and gave him "pepper," i can tell you; and when he found he'd met his match, what did the fat, artful wretch do but throw himself on his back, quacking out, "you ain't a-going to hit me when i'm down?" now, selfish and greedy although he was, and disliked by the rest of the family, he had a little sister,--which was, that dear duckling you see swimming at the front of its mother, as if asking her if it may go out of the water for a little time, and have a waddle on the grass, for it is a most dutiful duckling,--and this little sister was the only one of the family that treated the greedy duckling kindly, for she used to say, "bad as he is, he's my brother, and it's my duty to bear with him." after a time, when, on account of his selfishness and greediness, the rest of the family had "sent him to coventry," which means that they wouldn't have anything to do with him,--neither eat, drink, nor swim with him, nor even exchange so much as a friendly "quack,"--then it was that he began to appreciate the kindness and self-sacrifice of his little sister, who would go and sit with him for the hour together, though he was too sulky at first even to "quack" to her. it so happened one day, when his pretty little sister had been talking to him, and telling him how much happier his life would be if he were more social, and how greatly his health would be improved if he ate less, that after saying, "i don't care if they won't have me amongst 'em; little sukey gives me plenty to eat, and i can sleep well enough by myself, and much better than if they were all quacking about me; and though you come and stay with me, i don't ask you, nor i don't want you; and i dare say you only do it to please yourself, and----," before he could say another word, his little sister said, "run, run!" for she had seen a shadow on the grass, and knew that a great hawk was hanging over them; and they had only just time to pop under the long, trailing canes of a bramble, before down the hawk came with such a sweep, that they could feel the cold wind raised by the flapping of his great wings, though he could not reach them for the bramble; nor did he try to get at them where they were sheltered, for the hawk only strikes his prey while on the wing, picking it up and keeping hold of it somehow, just as betty does a lump of coal, which she has made a snap at, and seized with the tongs. "he would have been sure to have had you," said the little sister, after the hawk had flown away over the trees, "as you stood the farthest out, and are so fat; and i was so near the bramble, he would hardly have had room for the full spread of his wings, if he had made a snap at me." "i don't see that," replied the greedy duckling, "for as i'm so heavy, i think he would have been glad to have dropped me before he had reached his nest; while as for you, you're such a light bit of a thing, he would have carried you off as easily almost as he would a fly that had settled on his back." "but supposing he had dropped you after flying with you about six times the height of a tall tree; what use would you have been after you had fallen?" asked the little duckling. "why, there would have been neither make nor shape in you, but you would have looked like a small handful of feathers somebody had thrown down on the place where oil had been spilt. our dear old mother would not have known you, for you would no more have looked like what you are now, than a snail that a wagon wheel had gone over did before it was crushed, when he was travelling comfortably along the rut, and carrying his sharp-pointed house on his back." "well, as i don't care much about my shape now, i suppose the thought of it would have troubled me less after i'd been killed," said the greedy duckling; "all i care for in this life is to have as much to eat as i can tuck under my wings, and not to have any noise about me while i'm asleep. as to washing myself much, that's a trouble, though i do manage to give my head a dip when i have a drink. there was an old man used to come and sit under the tree beside our brook, and read poetry; and sometimes, between sleeping and waking, i used to pick up a line or two; and i liked those best of all that said,- 'i just do nothing all the day, and soundly sleep the night away,'-because they just suited me to a t." in vain did the clean little sister endeavor to persuade him to wash himself oftener, take more exercise, mingle more with his family, eat less, and try to make himself more respected; it was all of no use: instead of becoming better, he got worse. there was a hole under the wooden steps that led up to old granny's cottage, and the greedy duckling, having found it out, used to creep in and watch until the old woman's back was turned, when sukey would be sure to feed him; and very often he found food about, and helped himself to it, no matter what it was. one day granny had made a custard, which she left standing on the table until the oven was hot, when the greedy duckling got at it, and after putting in his beak, and having had a good drink, he held his head aside, and said, "bless me! though rather thick, it's very nice--not at all like muddy water. i can taste milk, and i'm sure there are eggs, also plenty of sugar; what that brown powder is floating at the top i don't know; but it must be spice, i think, for it warms the stomach. but here comes old granny: i must hide under the table until she goes out, or i shall have another taste of that horn-handled stick of hers; then, if she hits me fairly on the leg, i shall have to go hoppity kick, as she does. i should like to finish that lot very much, it's so good. o, how comfortably i could sleep after in my little nest under the step! i'll keep a sharp eye on old granny and her cat." the cat had been blamed for many things it had never touched, which the greedy duckling had gobbled up; and as he sat washing himself on the hob, which was beginning to be warm, granny having lighted a fire to heat the oven, he spied the duckling under the table, and kept his eye on him without seeming to take any notice at all. "i shall be having the cat lapping up all this custard, if i don't put it somewhere out of the way," said the grandmother; "it will be the safest here;" and she put it into the oven without quite shutting the door, then went out to get some more wood to put under the oven, which was hardly warm. "i shall have time enough to finish that lot before old granny comes back, for she has the wood to break into short pieces," said the greedy duckling, who had seen her put the custard into the oven; so he just put out his wings and went in after it, and began pegging away at the custard, for it was a big oven and there was plenty of room. "i've been blamed often enough for things you've stolen and eaten, and i'll get out of that," said the cat; "for though i know you'll be out of the oven and hiding somewhere the instant you hear her hoppity kick on the cottage floor, yet if she looks at the custard before she shuts the oven door, and finds half of it eaten, she'll say i've had it." so saying, the cat made a spring from off the oven on to the floor, and while doing so, his hinder legs caught the oven door, and, with the force of the spring, shut it to with a loud clap and a click, for the handle always caught when the door was pushed to sharp. away ran the cat, and in came old granny with the stick, which she began to shove under the oven, until in time it was so hot that she couldn't take hold of the handle to turn her custard without holding it with the dishclout. "why, i declare, if it isn't burnt to a cinder!" exclaimed old granny, as she threw open the oven door; when there was such a smell of burnt feathers and fat as nearly knocked her down; for the fat duckling first ran all to dripping, which ran all over the oven bottom, and then got burnt black, it was so hot; and she never could, nor never did, nor never will make out what it was that made her oven in such a mess and spoiled her custard, nor what became of her greedy duckling. juvenile books. published by sheldon & company, new york. rollo's tour in europe. by jacob abbott. 10 vols. price per vol. $0.90 abbott's american history. by jacob abbott. 8 vols. price per vol. 1.25 the florence stories. by jacob abbott. 6 vols. price per vol. 1.00 the rollo books. by jacob abbott. 14 vols. price per vol. .65 the same. large paper edition. per vol. .90 the rollo story books. by jacob abbott. 12 vols. price per vol. .40 the harlie stories. 6 vols. by jacob abbott. price per vol. .50 walter's 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from the original text have been faithfully preserved. only obvious typographical errors have been corrected. wild ducks [illustration: _w.l. colls. ph. sc._ "_the fleet at flight time._"] wild ducks how to rear and shoot them by captain w. coape oates with 4 photogravure plates from drawings by g.e. lodge, and 12 illustrations from photographs longmans, green, and co. 39 paternoster row, london new york and bombay 1905 all rights reserved to my wife preface the main object of this book is to assist those who are anxious to rear wild ducks on economical lines. the author is not without hope that the pages which it contains may even be of some use to old hands at the game. contents chap. page i. selection of stock and their home 13 ii. laying and sitting 25 iii. hatching and rearing 41 iv. shooting 61 list of illustrations photogravure plates _from drawings by_ g.e. lodge the fleet at flight time _frontispiece_ on guard _to face p._ 25 a tidy mother 33 quite tall enough 61 from photographs coming in to feed 16 the cage 20 the rearing paddock 41 a small run 46 ware wire! 48 wired in on the water 51 an ineffective cripple stopper 64 before the evening meal 67 a right and left 69 at the end of the day 70 coming on a side wind 73 ladies in waiting 74 selection of stock and their home wild ducks chapter i selection of stock and their home the first point to be decided by the would-be owner of wild-fowl is the locality where he intends to turn down his stock. wild-fowl can undoubtedly be reared far from any large piece of water, but i am strongly of opinion that birds do better on a good-sized stretch of water with a stream running into it and out of it. given these advantages, the running water must be constantly bringing a fresh supply of food, especially after a fall of rain sufficiently heavy to cause a rise of water; further, if the stream which runs out of our lake empties itself into a large river, the latter will, when it floods or rises rapidly, cause our stream to back up and bring in a further supply of food from the main river. some morning the ducks are absent from their accustomed haunts, and if we walk up to the spot where the stream enters the lake, ten to one we shall find our birds there thoroughly enjoying some duck-weed or other food swept down by a rise in the water. this supply of fresh food is a gratifying source of economy to the grain bill at the end of the year, and it is most fascinating to watch the birds "standing on their heads" in their endeavours to reach this change of diet. another great advantage, too, is that a far higher percentage of fertile eggs will be obtained if the ducks have a large piece of water at their disposal. given these advantages, it is, however, most necessary for the birds to have some shelter near the lake, both as a protection against the weather and to serve as suitable nesting places. nothing, for instance, could be better than a stackyard or paddock in the vicinity of the water, and if the paddock is bounded by a flood bank or tall hedge, giving shelter from the prevailing wind, so much the better. ducks love to nest in stacks, and i have known a pinioned bird work her way up the side of a stack and make her nest fifteen feet from the ground. in stacks birds can burrow so deep that no weather, however inclement, can damage the eggs. outhouses too are very favourite places for ducks to lay in; also old stick heaps and the bottom of thick hedges. my main point is this, that if you take the trouble to regularly feed your wild ducks morning and evening and keep them quiet, you will soon find that you can get them _to lay where you want them to lay_, and the places you select will naturally be those where they are secure, or nearly so, from their natural enemies, such as rats, cats, weasels, moles, and other vermin. this is the first secret of success. i have seen wild ducks so tame that within a fortnight from the time they first joined my own birds they were eating maize close to my feet. having obtained my piece of water and decided on the spot where i mean to feed my birds, the next step is to get the breeding stock. i consider that the best time to purchase the stock is december, as this gives ample time for the birds to pair and get used to their surroundings before the breeding season commences; one is almost sure to get some cold weather in january, and the cold will make the birds more dependent on the food given to them, and therefore more easily managed. next as to the stock and where to get it. i advise you to obtain your birds from different places, two or three birds from each place, taking care to get fairly young birds, and not older than, say, two years. by this means you will get a certain amount of change of blood, particularly during the second season, when the different broods, which have been well mixed at hatching time, pick their mates and breed. [illustration: coming in to feed] i believe that this method is more satisfactory than buying eggs in the first instance, as in the latter case you cannot tell for certain how long the eggs you purchase have been laid, nor what the birds are like which laid them. we next come to the question of the proportion of drakes to ducks. on a small piece of water, one drake to every three ducks will do very well, but if you have at your disposal a large lake, i am strongly in favour of plenty of drakes, say fifteen drakes to every twenty ducks. most of the birds will pair, though occasionally one finds as many as three drakes paying court to one duck, and one drake taking away two or even three ducks. it will generally be found, however, that if any of your ducks are without mates, wild birds will soon come and pair with them, and this is, of course, just what you want. i have adopted this principle for some time, and practically all the eggs collected are fertile. it will be found that at times--particularly whilst the ducks are sitting--the drakes are a great nuisance, but at this period one can always catch them and shut them up. the next point to be considered is as to what food is best for breeding birds, and i say unhesitatingly maize. there is practically no waste, and you have not the mortification of seeing crowds of sparrows swoop down on your ducks' food as you turn away. better still, ducks lay capitally on maize, and you may calculate on obtaining an average of twenty-three to twenty-four eggs apiece from your ducks if fed carefully. you will find that strange ducks when they first join your own will not eat maize, though they soon take to it when they see your own birds feeding. it is easy to tell the advent of a stranger by this peculiarity, and by his generally alert and suspicious manner. i am a strong believer in the infusion of fresh blood each year, and this is easily done by catching a few stranger drakes and pinioning them. these birds, if kept up until their wound is healed, and then enlarged in good time, will pair with your own birds and often become very tame. i did not find that pinioning strange ducks answered so well, as they were very prone to stray and lay their eggs at a distance, and their young were always shy and difficult to tame; moreover, the ducks never bred the first year after pinioning, whereas the drakes did. it is quite a simple matter to catch these wild birds; you have only to construct an ordinary wire-covered cage, somewhere near the water, and with the face nearest the water closed by a door; you then accustom your own birds to feed inside this cage, and you will soon find that in winter they will come for food as soon as it is light, or rather just as day is breaking, always provided that you feed them at that time. you have been careful to leave the door of the cage open over night, and have put some maize inside the cage. a strong cord attached to the door is passed across the doorway and round a wooden "runner" on the opposite post, and then to the back of the cage, where your man lies concealed. often during severe weather, which is always the best for this kind of work, your own birds will be followed by one or two strangers, who in the half light come inside the cage before realising their mistake. once you get them inside the cage with their heads away from the entrance, pull the string and shut the door. care should be taken that the string is fairly high up, so as not to catch the duck's eye. having got your birds safely inside, catch them quietly and quickly, and having pinioned them, take them, if possible, to a cage with some part of it projecting out into the water. you, of course, feed them regularly, and are careful to give them some artificial cover to skulk in, as for some time the pain of the wound and the fright they have had makes them terribly shy. this cage, once constructed, is most useful for such work, and can be built at trifling cost, and the size i would recommend is about fifteen yards long by five yards wide, with a height of five or six feet. your own birds soon get used to their part of the business, and, if you are quiet and quick, soon get over their nervousness. the advantage of confining your captives for a short time is obvious. they get used to their surroundings and recognise the lake as their new home, and soon take to their diet of maize, so that when you liberate them they rarely give much trouble, and readily mate with your own birds. [illustration: the cage] one very important point which i have omitted to mention is the necessity to kill down all rats, hedge-hogs, moles, and weasels in the vicinity of your breeding places. rats are the ducks' worst enemies, and i have known one old doe rat which had no less than sixteen wild ducks' eggs in her larder when she was dug out and killed. all these eggs had a small hole in them, and were of course spoilt. we proved conclusively that she had no partner in her crimes, as we never lost another egg after her death. rats are a perfect curse to young ducks, and they will carry them off even when they are half-grown, occasionally killing two or three ducklings in a single night without even taking the trouble to remove them. on another occasion i remember a rat killing a duck whilst sitting on her nest; the unfortunate bird had allowed herself to be killed apparently without moving. moles do a good deal of damage by burrowing under the nests, thus forming a cavity into which the eggs fall; they are then carried off by the mole. more than this, many a duck is either put off laying or induced to desert her nest when sitting owing to the restless movements of this little pest. a last word as regards the numbers you should retain as a breeding stock. this largely depends on the size of the piece of water you own and the amount of food it can supply to your birds. if your stock is too large, your birds will do a lot of harm to the meadows adjoining the water, and you must bear in mind that the possession of the goodwill of the farmers round is the second secret of success. ensure this, and you don't get eggs stolen, and, better still, you are informed of the whereabouts of any truant ducks that may be nesting away from home. a present of a couple of fat wild ducks will cover a multitude of their sins. laying and sitting [illustration: _w.l. colls. ph. sc._ "_on guard._"] chapter ii laying and sitting we now come to the time when the ducks, having paired, show an inclination to look for suitable nesting places. the drake takes the lead in this, and you may be sure that when you see birds peering about in hedge bottoms, stick heaps, &c., that eggs will soon be laid. at this time, too, they use a different note, and to quote a very apt term used by a friend of mine, they "begin to talk." about the beginning of february it is advisable to hint to the ducks where you want them to lay. if you have any large trees in your paddock, place a number of sticks up against the trees in the form of a circle, leaving one or two clear spaces inside the heap. then make some circular holes, one in each of the spaces, and about five or six inches deep, and shelving gradually from rim to centre. it is best to scatter some sand in these holes, so that the birds can more easily work the nests to the dimensions that suit them. don't make the nests too small or too shallow, as they may have to contain fourteen or fifteen eggs. it is advisable to put some short dry grass or old hay near the nest, and a very little in it, so that the duck can manipulate it at her pleasure. the principal thing to remember is, that the nest must be sheltered as much as possible from draughts, and be made well in the middle of the cover, as ducks like darkness when they are sitting. broom is about the best cover you can use for sheltering a nest, and is most adaptable. practical experience, and one's early failures, teach one more than anything else how a nest should be made, and yet often when you are satisfied that you have selected a most suitable spot for nesting purposes, you will find a duck occasionally preferring a miserably draughty position for her nest within a yard of the snug retreat you have devised for her. the only thing then to be done is to leave her alone until she has settled down to lay steadily, when you can gradually introduce pieces of broom, &c., so as to shelter her nest as much as possible from wind and rain, taking care to leave the entrance to the nest clear. young ducks as a rule are the most shy, and you will generally find the older birds only too glad to avail themselves of the well-sheltered nests that you have provided for them. nothing can be better for ducks to nest in than the corners of an outhouse or old stable, always provided that you have killed off the rats. in such places wind and rain can do no harm, and practically every egg hatches out. the roots of hollow willow trees are favourite nesting places, but a bit dangerous if too near the water's edge. many birds delight in straw stacks, and if disturbed will simply go up higher, so as to be out of the way of cattle or human beings. i believe that if you can get your birds to nest in outhouses or stacks, you will get a much better hatch out than elsewhere. last year one of my ducks took off all her sixteen eggs safely from the corner of a stable, and a bird sitting close to her hatched eleven, without a single bad egg; and we had almost as good results from birds nesting in stacks. one bird, after being disturbed from her nest in the side of a stack, built at the top, and quite twenty feet from the ground. one fine morning we found her with fourteen young ducklings, and she appeared much annoyed at the assistance which we gave to the family to descend. if the weather is dry and your nests are well situated, your birds nesting outside may do as well as those described above; but given a week of cold wind and penetrating wet, down goes your average at once. last season was a particularly favourable one, and from the first five nests (all sat upon by ducks) no less than sixty-five ducklings hatched out--a highest possible. naturally this extraordinary percentage was not maintained. we will now suppose that the ducks have begun to lay, an event which may take place any time from the middle of february to the middle of march, after which date they ought to be laying steadily. as they will lay many more eggs than they can successfully hatch, pick up some eggs at intervals from the nests, taking care always to leave two or three in each nest. these eggs should be placed on a large tray or shallow box, lined with hay, sawdust, or other suitable material. it is not advisable to place them touching each other, and care should be taken to turn them daily; if this is done the eggs will keep well for three weeks, by which time you have collected a sufficient number to put under hens, however small your stock may be. eggs left in the nest will, of course, not require turning, as the duck does this herself. when you have collected a number of eggs, place them under hens, having first satisfied yourself that the hens are good sitters. eight to ten sittings of twelve eggs each is a good number to put down as a start, as from this number you ought to get about a hundred ducklings, and these, when old enough, can be divided into two runs of about fifty each. i have found by experience that it is unwise to put a larger number than this together until the birds are about six or seven weeks old. naturally, the number of eggs you can put down will depend on the size of your stock and the number of sitting hens at your disposal. a certain amount of care is necessary in preparing the nest for the hens, as ducks' eggs are very fragile, and much more easily broken than hens' eggs. the following is the method which i recommend. get any square box of sufficient depth, and having cut some pieces of sod, build up the corners of the box with them: then cut a square sod to fit the size of the box, and having removed some of the earth underneath the centre of the sod, place it grass upwards in the box. by this means you will obtain the proper shape for the nest, viz., a gradual slope down from the sides to the centre; this will prevent your hens accidentally kicking eggs from under them, as owing to the shape of the nest any eggs which are displaced must roll towards the centre or lowest part of the nest; there is consequently little danger of any of the eggs getting cold. after this, line the nest with dry moss. the sod underneath has the advantage of producing greater heat, and gives a more satisfactory hatch out than nests made of other material, and being firm does not lose its shape. don't forget to give your sitting hen some ventilation, but be careful that _no draught can reach the eggs_. the sitting hens will, of course, be taken off to feed regularly every day, and you will find them give you less trouble if you take care to tether them on the same leg each day. and now to return to the laying ducks. as time goes on you must leave more eggs in the nest, as the birds will soon want to sit. a duck shows signs of this by lining her nest with down from her breast, and in a short time you will find the whole nest, sides and bottom, lined with a thick covering of down; while the eggs are covered by what i can best describe as a thick movable quilt, which protects them from the cold, and the prying eyes of carrion crows and other poachers. at this time you will observe the old duck staying longer and longer on her nest each day as she lays the last egg or two, and you may be sure that she has fairly begun to sit if you find her still on her nest about 6 or 7 p.m. a day or two before she begins to sit, her nest should be made up to its proper complement of eggs, and it is always wise to keep a few eggs in hand for such contingencies. the number of eggs a duck can sit on depends largely on the size of the duck and also the depth and breadth of the nest; given favourable conditions a duck can manage sixteen or seventeen eggs, and i knew of one nest, consisting of sixteen eggs, all of which hatched off. there is, however, this risk, that should bad weather come it is practically impossible for a duck to successfully brood so large a number as sixteen ducklings, even when her coop is turned away from the wind and rain; and it is here that large brooding hens such as the bufforpington score their strongest point as mothers to young ducks. of one thing you may be sure, a duck will not retain any more eggs in her nest than she can conveniently cover. i know of one case where a duck belonging to me was sitting on fifteen eggs. all appeared to be going well, until one morning a friend of mine, on whose veracity i can absolutely rely, saw the duck fly from her nest, close to where he was standing, _with an egg in her bill_. [illustration: _w.l. colls. ph. sc._ "_a tidy mother._"] she flew to the water, about 150 yards away, apparently without breaking the egg; but unfortunately my friend could not get up in time to see what she did with it. she hatched out the rest of her eggs satisfactorily. i presume that either the egg in question was cracked and she removed it for the sake of cleanliness, or because she felt herself unable to sit on so many eggs. on many occasions i have noticed an egg left bare on the top of the downy covering which ducks are so careful to leave over their eggs when they go off to feed, and these eggs, if taken away and placed under a hen, have invariably hatched. to the best of my recollection i have never known eggs disappear from a nest containing eggs up to thirteen in number; but over that i could quote many instances of one or two eggs going. this has led me to believe that the bird above alluded to had removed an egg from her nest, as she felt herself unable to sit on so many. a good number of eggs to leave under a duck is thirteen, and under a hen twelve. i have satisfied myself that hens, however small and light, break many more eggs than ducks, and for this reason i do not care to give a hen too many--one broken egg frequently leads to more. it is advisable when once the ducks have begun to sit, to catch their mates, if possible, and shut them up in some convenient place during incubation, as otherwise they bully the sitting ducks when they come off to feed, and you may have the annoyance of seeing a duck desert her nest just at hatching time, as nature has warned her that she must shortly lay again. i had one instance of this kind, when a duck which had been sitting very steadily left her nest when the eggs were actually "spretched" (cracked previous to hatching), and as later in the day she showed no signs of returning we had to put them under a hen. the duck in question never returned to her nest, but soon made another. she had not been disturbed in any way. should a duck forsake its nest, place the eggs under a good hen as quickly as possible, even if they are stone cold. i had one case last year, which i thought hopeless. the eggs had been sat on for about a fortnight. they were stone cold, and we knew the duck had been off her nest for at least twelve hours, probably much longer. eventually twelve out of the thirteen hatched. if you are unable to catch the drakes, the best plan is to put food and water near the nest of the sitting birds, the pan containing the water being large enough to allow her to wash herself thoroughly, as it is the daily tub which generates heat, and assists most materially the successful hatching of the young birds. i will now deal with the vexed question as to the best kind of hens to be employed. personally i have strong leaning towards "bufforpingtons"; they are, of course, heavy, and do break a few eggs--ducks' eggs being particularly brittle--but, on the other hand, they are very staunch sitters, quiet and easy to handle, and not likely to get excited when other hens are hatching in close proximity to them. i have tried lighter hens of several breeds, and i find that they break as many eggs, and trample on as many young ducklings as the buffs, whereas taking them all round, they are not so easy to handle, do not sit so steadily, and have nothing like the wonderful brooding capacity of the buffs. many people put all their wild ducks' eggs under hens, and do not allow the ducks themselves to sit. i think this is a mistake, as nature gives to ducks far greater powers to hatch their own eggs than she gives to hens. the daily bath, already alluded to, and the mass of warm soft feathers, greatly assist in generating heat, and in preventing the eggs from getting chilled. the old duck treads more lightly when going on to her nest, and certainly breaks far fewer eggs than the hen does. on the other hand, ducks are not such good "brooders" as hens, and are far more likely to get dirty when kept under coops, however often you may change the ground, owing to the fact that they do not get to the water for the daily bath which is essential to them; and if you leave a bath for them in the coop, the young ducklings will be sure to get to it and probably contract cramp. another strong point in favour of hens is the fact that when you have a large number of cletches of ducks in the wired run the hens do not kill them when they make a mistake and go to the wrong coop, whereas ducks frequently do. if, therefore, a considerable number of broody hens are available, the best plan is to let the ducks sit on the eggs until they are "spretched" (cracked), and then transfer them to hens which have been sitting for some time. this, however, is a cruel business at best. the plan i always adopt is to note down carefully the day on which a duck should hatch, and having satisfied myself that the young ones are dry after hatching and ready to move, i catch the old duck on the nest, and remove her and her whole family to a coop and run. care of course should be taken to see the bars in front of the coop are not sufficiently far apart to allow the duck to escape. ducks' eggs take from twenty-four to twenty-nine days to hatch as a rule, though occasionally a lot of eggs that have been put down soon after being laid will hatch in twenty-three days, if set under a good hen. i should put twenty-six days as the usual period of incubation. if the ducks are well and regularly fed, they should lay an average of twenty-three eggs apiece during the nesting season. we generally feed ours on maize, as it is less wasteful than smaller grain, and the birds lay well on it. one can, i think, count on 80 per cent. of the eggs hatching, and of birds actually hatched you ought, in a fair season, to rear 85 per cent. having taken my reader as far as the hatching out of the young birds, i propose in my next chapter, which i consider the most important in the book, to deal with the question of their food, up to the time they are fit to shoot. hatching and rearing [illustration: the rearing paddock] chapter iii hatching and rearing the time is now approaching when the ducklings may be expected to hatch out. care has been taken to plentifully sprinkle the eggs with tepid water, two or three times a week, whilst the hens are off for their daily feed, and everything is ready for the young birds. the first sign of approaching hatching is a curious opaqueness which affects the eggs. this is speedily followed by chipping, and by placing the egg close to the ear the young birds can easily be heard endeavouring to obtain their liberty. if all the eggs chip and hatch together it is a sure sign of healthy birds; but should they be hatching out patchily, remove the earliest birds at intervals from the different hens and put them in a basket lined with flannel, in a warm corner of a room, but not too near the fire. when the birds are quite dry and lively, remove them eleven or twelve together and place them in a coop, with a small wire run attached. always place the coops facing the sun, if possible, and with their backs to the wind. wind and rain must be kept out and the sun admitted. the latter will bring on young birds quicker than anything. during very bad weather coops may have to be shifted two or three times a day if the wind keeps changing. a matter of considerable importance is the nature of the soil on which the ducks are to be reared. let it be light and well drained, and the ground undulating, so that it may be always possible to shelter the young birds from a harsh wind. a high bank, such as that alluded to in chapter i., is often of the greatest assistance in sheltering them, particularly when they get a little older. the ducklings must be put on some grass, as otherwise the hens will scratch for food, and generally damage one or two of their brood. the young hopefuls require scarcely anything to eat or drink for the first twenty-four hours, and do little else but brood underneath the hen, though little patches of brown and yellow with a bright eye here and there form a fascinating picture for any passer-by. the first food given should be a little fine wild duck meal, scalded in the usual way, and put on a _shallow_ plate outside the coop, and inside the small wire run attached to the coop. to start with, a little food may be scattered over the grass inside the coops to attract the little birds to their meal; they should, however, be taught to feed as soon as possible outside for the sake of cleanliness. it is most important at this early stage that the food be not of too sloppy a nature, otherwise the birds soon get in a terrible state, and absolutely coated with their food. this always leads to their heads, eyes, and often their backs becoming sticky, and in the end spells a big death roll. very little water, and that pond water, should be given during the early stages; the colder the weather the less they ought to have to drink, and it is often a good plan to take the chill off what little is given them. don't forget to give the hens food and water twice a day. a busy time is now before the keeper, or whoever is responsible for the feeding. the earliest meal should be given at about 4 a.m. or as soon as it is light, and then regularly throughout the day, every four hours. be careful to feed more frequently during inclement weather, and move the coops prior to feeding. the ducklings are now fairly started on their journey, and before following them i propose to describe the method to be adopted in the case of ducks sitting on their own eggs. visit the sitting birds pretty regularly, so that they lose their shyness on seeing you, and when the birds have been sitting twenty-five days, go in the early morning and late in the evening to satisfy yourself that the eggs have not hatched. an experienced eye can generally tell, by the unusually elevated appearance of the duck on her nest, when she has hatched, and sometimes by creeping quietly forward the little birds may be heard chirping, though they instantly cease on receiving a warning from their mother. should you have doubt as to the hatching having taken place, a blunted stick put under her breast will generally reveal the state of affairs, and if she knows you the old bird will not mind this. directly it is ascertained that the brood is dry enough, the old bird should be caught and the little ones put in a warm basket, and the lot transferred to a coop and run, after which they are treated in exactly the same manner as those under a hen. i do not, however, think it wise to give the duck as many young ones to look after as are given to the hen; very often, however, there is no option in the matter. ducks are very cunning at hatching time, and unless the keeper is quick and observant, will frequently give him the slip, and get off with their brood to the water, where more than half of them will probably fall a prey to rats and pike. i remember on one occasion being unable until late afternoon to go and look at a nest which was due to hatch in the morning. i found fourteen empty shells and the family gone. it was a very cold day, and after a prolonged search the party were found snugly ensconced under a willow tree. they were speedily captured and brought home. the young ducks are now three or four days old, and have got into the way of running out of the coop and into the run for their food and water. they have overcome their early shyness, and on the appearance of the keeper speedily show themselves. a little fine crissel and flint grit can now with advantage be added to the meal, and some sand, which acts as a digestive, placed in the water and on the grass. never give them more than they can eat. nothing is worse than stale food left about; it leads to diarrhoea, &c., and gives the youngsters a distaste for their food. the food can be placed in long shallow troughs or on the grass in one long line. i prefer the former plan, as less is left about to become stale and sour. care should be taken to see that the troughs are thoroughly washed after each meal. when about ten days old the ducklings require more room to roam about in, and unless you give it them they will begin to go back. [illustration: a small run] place five or six coops, hens inside, in a line, and about a foot apart, and wire in a piece of ground about ten yards square round the coops; it is better to give them too much room than too little. it will generally be necessary to move on to fresh ground every four or five days during this stage, but much depends of course on the state of the weather. it is a good plan to leave the small wire runs inside the larger runs, as they give a certain amount of shelter in bad weather. it is delightful to see the little chaps appreciating their new liberty and dashing about in all directions in chase of flies, &c. nothing seems to hurt them at this time, and i once remember seeing three of my young ducks devour a bee apiece after first crippling it. i have noticed a bird swallow a bee alive, and have also seen one stung, but no ill effects resulted. it is a good plan now to give the birds a little boiled rabbit, chopped up fine; it makes a change from the crissel, and ducklings must have some animal food as a substitute for the slugs, worms, and many etceteras that they pick up in their natural state. the chopped rabbit should be mixed with the meal. one word of advice before going farther. previous to placing a number of coops containing the old ducks close together, ascertain carefully whether there are any vicious ones amongst them--some are very savage, and will immediately peck to death any unwary little one which enters a coop not its proper home. it is best in these cases to isolate the old bird and her brood altogether, if you have plenty of room, or, failing that, to place her by herself in one corner of the run. if bad weather comes on, a pinch of "cardiac" (a kind of tonic sold by messrs. spratt) may be added to the food, but i only advocate its use occasionally. the chief point i am anxious to impress on my readers is, don't let your birds get cold and wet; if you do, ground is lost which can never be recovered. a capital plan is to cover some portion of the run with sacking or a waterproof sheet to form a shelter against excessive heat or a sudden hail-storm. the most delicate time, in my opinion, is just when they are getting their shoulder feathers, and if you get them safely through this period the worst is over. [illustration: ware wire!] when they are about a fortnight old begin to give them some wheat in their drinking water; that known to farmers as "seconds" is best. i am a strong advocate of steeping the wheat before feeding, as i think it renders it more digestible, though this is not so necessary if one uses "seconds." the ducks having got to eat wheat nicely, introduce a little barley, and by the time they are seven weeks old you can afford to do without meal entirely, and it will be time to take the birds down to the water which is to be their home. the greatest obstacle to success in rearing during the early stages of a young wild duck's life is the extraordinary knack they have of getting their heads and backs dirty. this is a most serious matter, and causes great mortality unless attended to. it is generally caused by the food adhering to their heads and cheeks; being of a sticky nature, it will often, if neglected, cause inflammation to the eyes and eventually blindness. if once their heads get dirty, their backs soon follow suit, as the act of "preening" soon transfers the dirt from the head to the back. this curse to young ducks is most prevalent in wet weather, and it is therefore most necessary to constantly change the ground so as to keep the birds as clean as possible; if once the old bird gets dirty, it is good-bye to the general good health of her brood. the only remedy, if matters become serious, is to get some tepid water and soap, and carefully wash the affected places with a soft sponge, taking care to free the down or feathers which have adhered to the skin. a hot sunny day is the best for the purpose, as the young birds then have every chance of getting dry. if the old bird is dirty, try to allow her a good wash in a tub or small tank; she must, however, be watched, otherwise she may leave her young ones in the lurch. if your ducks are pinioned it is easy to manage this bath, and to prevent the birds straying afterwards from their young. when the ducklings are seven weeks old choose a nice warm day, and take them down to the water: i say a warm day, as owing to their delight at getting to their natural element, they are very liable to overdo their bathing at first, and, should the day be cold, the casualty list will be a big one next morning. [illustration: wired in on the water] at this time it is best to wire off a piece of land and water, making the whole into one large run, and taking care that there is some shelter on land for the young birds. it is a good plan to bring down the old birds, coops and all, to their temporary home, keeping the mothers shut up in the coops for the present. their presence gives confidence to the ducklings, and their sharp warning "quacks" tell them when danger is about, and also emphasise the fact that there do exist such things as gulls, carrion crows, cats, dogs, &c., and that in future the young hopefuls must look out for themselves. willow trees planted at the water's edge and kept about five to six feet high form admirable protection from bad weather and winged vermin, and also give welcome shelter from the heat of the sun, whilst they undoubtedly add to the amount of insect life in the run. if you wish to study economy in feeding, an excellent plan is to mix barley meal with your duck meal; commence in the proportion of four parts duck meal to one of barley meal, and increase the proportion of the latter until the mixture is half and half. too much barley meal is, i feel sure, a bad thing, and causes indigestion, and if expense is no object it is best to stick to the wild duck meal until the ducks are weaned to corn; if, however, you do decide to feed on barley meal, it is a good plan to mix a little bran with it, in the proportion of one part bran to four of barley meal. you should get the ducks on to corn as soon as possible, and teach them to eat it in shallow water; they don't eat it so fast if this plan is adopted, are less liable to get indigestion, and in searching for the food are constantly drinking water at the same time as the food, as well as a certain amount of grit, sand, &c. ducks must have water with their food, and the sooner they are trained to take corn and water together, the better will their meals be digested; moreover, if fed in this way birds certainly require less, and there is consequently a gratifying reduction in the grain bill at the end of the year. to return to the run at the water's edge, let it be assumed that the birds have been ten days to a fortnight in their new home, have become thoroughly accustomed to it, and naturally look upon it as the place where food is to be obtained at stated times. it is now time to enlarge them altogether, but before doing so liberate a few of the least vicious of the old ducks. these birds very soon take charge of a certain number of young ones, and directly the wire is pulled up will teach them where to look for food. it is a very pretty sight to see an old bird swimming at the head of twenty or thirty young ducklings, who form a compact mass behind her, and always accompany her in foraging expeditions. she it is who warns them that it is nearly feeding time; it is her eye which has detected a well-known figure hovering overhead, and her voice which warns them to make for the nearest shelter. by this time i am sure that my readers will be getting impatient because i have said so little as to the cost of food. a golden rule is to give your ducklings all they will eat during the first seven or eight weeks, and after that make them hunt for their natural food, giving them just sufficient to keep them fairly fat and prevent them from straying. it is quite possible to get them fat enough for the larder by increasing the supply of maize during the last fortnight or so before your shoot takes place. i am of opinion that, provided a man feeds and looks after his ducks himself, is in possession of a supply of coops and runs, and is fortunate enough to have a suitable piece of water of his own, as well as a bit of ground to rear them on, that he can make his accounts balance at the end of the year. in other words, he will be able to give his friends some very enjoyable shooting, and supply himself with a hobby of which he will never be tired, at no expense to himself. in support of my statement i propose to give a few figures. the breeding stock has of course to be purchased, and for the sake of simplicity let us put it at twenty ducks and fifteen drakes, making an initial cost of about â£7. in an experience of some years, however, i have found that my stock at the end of the season numbers practically the same as at the commencement, and i found it always possible to fill up any casualties by catching and pinioning wild birds which join my own. on these grounds i consider that my stock at the end of the season is of the same value as at the beginning, and that one side of my account balances the other. the stock fed on maize will cost about 12s. 6d. a month, and, supposing that the first birds are hatched out about the middle of april, and practically all, except a very few retained for breeding purposes and some immature birds, are killed the first week in september, this calculation brings the price of feeding the breeding stock for seven and a half months to â£4, 13s. 9d. now for the food of the young birds. i assume that from the above-mentioned stock about 250 ducklings will be reared, and, taking an average of several years, their food from the date of hatching (mid april) to early september works out roughly at â£16. this includes wild duck meal, wheat, barley, and barley meal, a little maize, and the many etceteras, such as crissel, grit, and cardiac. to this should be added a little extra for the feeding of the immature birds, which are not quite ready for killing. put this at 15s. in addition there is still the expense of sitting hens: if twenty hens are purchased at 3s. each and afterwards sold at 2s., this item will work out as an expenditure of â£1. they have of course to be fed, but their food--maize is the best--has been taken from the food purchased for the ducks, so that no further amount has to be charged under this heading. the debit side of the account will now work out as follows:- food for ducklings â£16 0 0 food for old birds 4 13 9 extra food alluded to above 0 15 0 expenses for sitting hens 1 0 0 -------- â£22 8 9 as against these figures there are 250 young ducks for sale: deduct from this number fifteen for casualties of various kinds, such as dead birds unpicked at the shoot, odd birds that may stray and be killed, &c., and this gives 235. if the birds are properly fed a game-dealer will be glad to give 2s. each for them, especially if the shoot is timed to fit some popular function, such as doncaster races; so that the credit side of the account shows a sum of â£23, 10s. for the sale of 235 birds, giving a small surplus of rather over â£1, which can be used to meet incidental expenses, such as purchase of wire, &c. each young bird will cost about 1s. 3-1/2d. to rear, and will sell for 2s., leaving 8-1/2d. a bird profit with which to meet the other expenses. many of my readers may think the margin of fifteen birds set apart as casualties far too small, but i can assure them that, so far with me, it has never reached that number, and need not do so provided the birds are kept at home by proper feeding, and the right people propitiated. naturally one does not sell all one's ducks, or anything like it. some are given to the friends who come to the shoot, and many are given to the farmers round, but in considering accounts, i think i am justified in including the value of birds given away as one of the assets. in any case i have made an honest attempt to help those who wish to look before they leap. ducks are very fond of maize; it certainly brings them on quicker than anything else, and i have had young drakes of the year in full plumage on august 1, when maize has been the only corn used. it is, however, too fattening, i think, and a bit apt to make the birds lazy. i do not believe that birds fed solely on maize fly so well or are as good for the table as those whose diet is composed of a mixture of wheat, barley, and maize. the birds must be encouraged to seek their natural food, as only by this means will the wild duck's flavour be retained. the birds must be fed at regular hours, as this is the only guarantee that they will be at home when wanted. i hope that in this chapter i have succeeded in showing how wild ducks can be fed in the best and also most economical manner, and i shall endeavour in the concluding one to give my readers some hints as to how the birds can be made to show reasonably good sport. shooting [illustration: _w.l. colls, ph. sc._ "_quite tall enough._"] chapter iv shooting the chief difficulty confronting a host who desires to give his guests good sport lies in the fact that it is no easy matter to get young hand-reared wild ducks to fly well, and i propose in this chapter to endeavour to show how it can best be done. i say _young_ birds, as i think it will be admitted that wild duck, if shot in late october or november, will nearly always fly well. many sportsmen will, however, for various reasons, not want to keep their birds so long, either on the score of expense or for fear of their straying from home. young wild ducks hatched about the second week in april should, if properly fed, be in good plumage and fit to shoot by the first week in september; and why, their owner naturally asks, should they go on eating their heads off when they are ready to be shot and eaten themselves. partridge driving has not begun and the first edge has been taken off the grouse, so why should not the ducks be shot now; moreover, if fed well they will fetch a good price in the market at this time, as they will be in the nature of a treat so early in the season. the methods of shooting hand-reared wild ducks may be divided into four:-1. posting the guns at different spots on the margin of a lake or near it, and flushing the ducks by means of dogs and beaters. 2. teaching the ducks to take a particular line of flight by means of a horn, and then, without using the horn on the day of the shoot, intercepting them during their flight. 3. catching the ducks beforehand, liberating them in convenient numbers, and then driving them over the guns. 4. flight shooting. to deal first of all with no. 1 method. let it be imagined that the host is fortunate enough to possess a lake or piece of marshy ground of considerable extent, and bordered by reeds or flags, which form good cover. possibly the lake may narrow at some part, and if so our host's dispositions are easy; he places his guns on either shore at the "neck," and if there is room he fastens a punt in the water, midway between the guns on land. a second line of guns might, of course, be placed farther back. if the lake winds about a good deal the ducks will probably cut across country, and in any case can be easily made to do so by being flagged in or by being fed in a certain direction; there will very likely be some belt of trees in their line of flight, and if so some delightful sport may be had at high birds, the guns being placed in the open and well back from the trees, unless the birds are very shy. when the dispositions of the host are made, spaniels and keepers will beat the rushes on either side of the lake, driving the ducks over the guns, and the dogs can then be taken to the farther end and a return drive given when the ducks have been over the guns once; the latter will probably have to conceal themselves for this return drive, as the birds will now be more wary, and many that have not settled at the farther end of the lake may be circling high overhead. after a time it will probably be necessary to rest the birds for an hour or two for fear of driving them clean away. don't forget when the shoot is over to have a thorough hunt for dead birds and cripples; the "pick up" is always a big one, as very few birds are missed entirely. the best time to shoot at a high-flying duck is just after he has passed overhead, as then the shot gets behind the feathers and penetrates more easily. the best shot to use is, i think, no. 4. the disadvantages of the above plan are: (_a_) all the birds are frightened badly, and some are sure to be lost; (_b_) some birds, which strictly speaking are barely ready, are certain to be shot. [illustration: an ineffective cripple stopper] many a good day's sport have i enjoyed with the ducks in india. in the north-west provinces, where i was once quartered, there are a number of "jheels" or huge lakes, and during the cold weather these are tenanted by countless wild-fowl of nearly every variety. the plan usually adopted is to post the guns some distance apart and where they can best command the favourite feeding grounds of the birds; natives are then sent to different parts of the lake to stir the fowl and afterwards to keep them on the move, should they settle at a distance from where the guns are placed. well i remember the keen pleasure, not unmixed with anxiety, with which i received an invitation to shoot a celebrated "jheel" which had not been disturbed that season. ten guns, i was told, were coming. now i knew that there were not more than half-a-dozen really safe guns in the immediate neighbourhood, and i determined that in my case discretion should be the better part of valour. i accepted the invitation with certain mental reservations. arrived at the rendezvous, i found an old friend and good shot; in addition several good fellows, some of whom, though charming from a social point of view, plainly showed by the rather defiant manner in which they handled their guns that they were best avoided on the present occasion. fortunately for my friend and myself we were rather short of boats, so with apparent good nature we insisted on staying on shore, where we could get well out of range if necessary. we speedily secreted ourselves amongst some tall reeds, and well away from the direction towards which the fleet of boats was making. one of these, strongly resembling a three-decker, had three guns on board, all of whom stood upright throughout the action. her we christened the _man of war_. the smaller craft skirmished in her vicinity, and for two hours the battle raged furiously. no distance was too great, no waterfowl too small or insignificant for their attention; but endurance has its limits, and at last we noticed that even the _man of war_ was silenced, having fired upwards of 600 rounds. slowly and solemnly the "fleet" worked its way back to tiffin. [illustration: before the evening meal] in the meantime my friend and i had some capital sport, killing several pintail before these birds, always the first to leave, had finally departed. in addition we got some grey duck, gadwall, and a number of garganey and pochard. later, when the boats had all left the "jheel," the fowl slowly began to return, and we now realised with satisfaction that we were well placed. never have i had better sport or enjoyed myself more, and when at length we were peremptorily informed that the return train was shortly due (and even indian trains don't wait for one more than half-an-hour), we staggered into the little wayside station, followed by our coolies, carrying enough ducks to feed the station for a week. the second method has now to be dealt with. nothing is easier than to accustom the ducks to come to feed at stated times. at first a horn may be used and then gradually dropped, and in a very short time the birds will know the time of day as well as their feeder does; the latter must be stern with them, absolutely declining to feed them except at the regular hours, one of which will be timed to suit the hour it is intended to commence the shoot. before commencing this tuition the host will have to select the place from which he wishes the birds to fly, and also the feeding ground which is the end of their journey. ducks prefer to rest during the day, and are very fond of shade; provide them, therefore, if possible, with a plantation on some sloping ground fairly near water, where they can get shelter from sun and wind. i have found willows excellent for this purpose, as by topping they can always be kept at the required height. such a spot will do admirably as jumping-off place, and here the birds may regularly be expected to rest after their night's wandering in search of food. the next step is to select the feeding ground, which should be some little distance from the spot described; preferably it should be on high ground, so that the ducks in their flight have to pass over some sort of valley situated between the two places. in this valley the guns are placed shortly before the feeding hour, and as that time approaches small detachments of ducks will wing their way across the valley for their meal, and give most sporting shots. it is, of course, essential that the resting-place by day and the feeding ground are not too close together, as if this is the case many birds hearing the firing close at hand may be scared from coming to their food. [illustration: a right and left] after this the birds may be driven back the reverse way, though naturally this practice cannot be repeated more than once or twice in the year, or the birds will be scared away from the feeding ground altogether. if the host has a piece of water at right angles to the flight of the birds many will scatter after passing the guns and settle; and later on these birds can be driven up and down the water as described in the first method. one great advantage of the first stage of this plan is that the birds mostly fall on dry land and are easily retrieved. if the ground does not lend itself favourably for high birds the difficulty can be largely overcome by planting a belt of trees and then placing the guns in the open a little distance back; birds inclined to break out at the sides can easily be flagged in. it is a good plan to run some wire along the slope of the ducks' resting place, as it facilitates their rising at once, and they get into the habit of flying the whole distance instead of walking part of it. the third system has now to be considered. it is the most artificial of all, and is most suitable in cases where the ground does not lend itself well for high birds, or the host is not a man of unlimited means, but is fortunate enough to have the shooting rights over a fine stretch of water. the ducks probably vary considerably in size and age, as the owner, not having a large breeding stock, has not been able to put down a large number of eggs at once. the time has, however, come, when he has sufficient to give his friends a very nice shoot. it is, of course, undesirable to frighten or damage either the pinioned or immature birds, and these latter will have to be sorted from those which are fit to kill. the first step will be to accustom the birds to feed inside a wire enclosure, with some dark building, such as a barn or stable, at one end of the enclosure, and connected with it by means of a door. the birds all having been coaxed inside the enclosure to feed, shut the door of the enclosure quietly, and gradually drive the birds into the dark building. here the birds will be left all night, and owing to the darkness will not damage themselves. a certain amount of ventilation and some water will be necessary. [illustration: at the end of the day] it is a bad plan to give them any food beyond a light meal the evening they are caught, and certainly nothing next morning, as otherwise they will fly badly and heavily when liberated. next morning, those ducks that are fit to shoot will be separated from the pinioned birds and those that are immature, and these latter can be conveyed in hampers to any convenient building, and fed. they will be kept in confinement during the shoot. now for the shoot itself. the man who feeds the ducks has for a considerable time trained the ducks to fly in and out of the paddock or yard, in which the enclosure is situated. this is easily done by stretching a piece of wire, which can be gradually increased in height, across the boundary of the paddock into which the ducks come for their food. they soon get accustomed to this wire, and realise they will get no supper if they don't take the trouble to fly. as has already been mentioned, the owner of the ducks has the shooting rights over a fine piece of water, and on this water, and in the cover which grows round it, the birds pass the time between their feeding hours. there is sure to be a line of willow trees of some sort or other near the water's edge, and it is over these the ducks must be made to fly. provided that a small clump of low willows, or other cover, is planted some distance from the rearing field, with the high willow trees standing between the two, it is quite easy, by occasionally feeding in this little cover, to accustom the birds to look on it as their sanctuary, and when liberated from their enforced confinement they will make straight for it, and over the tops of the intervening trees. all that has to be done now is to place the guns between the tall willow trees and the little cover, but well in the open, so that the ducks may see them and be induced to rise higher in consequence. a little false cover can now be put along the wire before alluded to at the edge of the rearing field, to make the birds rise better, and to prevent the guns from getting any inkling of your plan of operations. [illustration: coming on a side wind] all is now ready, and at a given signal the birds which have been shut up all night will be liberated in detachments of varied numbers, first from the dark building, and secondly from the wire enclosure. thoroughly frightened with their unaccustomed imprisonment, they take wing at once, and make the best of their way to the sanctuary, giving the guns most sporting shots. should the wind be across their line of flight to the sanctuary, you will of course have to flag them in, as ducks always rise up wind, and love to fly against it; nothing they detest so much as getting their feathers ruffled. it will be found that they always fly best on a dull stormy day. the piece of water behind the guns should preferably run at right angles to the line of flight of the birds from the paddock to their sanctuary, as after the birds have passed the guns they will split up right and left, and settle at one end or the other. the guns will next be placed so as to command the water from bank to bank, one of them being placed, if necessary, in a boat moored for the purpose in midstream. the ducks are now driven over the guns again, down wind for choice, and this can be followed by a return drive, which ends the day's sport. an hour later some one must search the lake thoroughly for cripples, and when this has been done the breeding stock and immature birds should be released. a modification of this plan may be tried, though i do not recommend it. instead of the birds being liberated from the enclosure as already described, they are caught, placed in hampers, and conveyed to some convenient spot at a distance from home, and then liberated in the numbers required. the birds naturally fly straight home, and sometimes fly well. care must be taken to set them free amongst surroundings they know, otherwise they are cowed like a rabbit liberated away from its burrow. it is also advisable to place some obstacle across their line of flight, and about sixty yards in front of the guns, so as to make the birds rise well. the last plan has the obvious disadvantage that the ducks must be cramped to a certain extent by their imprisonment in the hampers, and it savours too much of the artificial to ever prove a complete success. on the other hand, the method described as the third works well; the birds are not crowded, but on being liberated are glad to escape; they are frightened and mean to fly well: but best of all your breeding stock and immature birds will, if this principle be adopted, know nothing of the shoot, and on being let go, will settle down in a very few hours and will assist in taming those birds which have been shot at but escaped. whatever you do be careful to conceal all your plans from your guns, when artificial methods are adopted; the day is always more enjoyable if the guests cannot see how their host manages matters. [illustration: ladies in waiting] ducks are extraordinarily good barometers, and by their behaviour on the water invariably give warning of coming rain or storm. no one who has kept wild ducks long has failed to notice their peculiar uneasiness before bad weather. suddenly one bird with outstretched wings will dash madly on the surface of the water, and behaving much in the same way as a flapper chased by a dog, throw itself into the air, and dive suddenly on alighting again: in a moment this is taken up by every bird on the water, until one sees the extraordinary sight of two or three hundred ducks behaving just as if they were mad. they dash in all directions and appear quite unable to control themselves. when all this is noticed there is pretty sure to be rain within twelve hours. the last but by no means least sporting form of duck shooting must now receive a little attention. i allude to flight shooting. as winter comes on the ducks' natural instincts have begun to assert themselves, and regularly at dusk, heads will go up, and a peculiar uneasiness manifest itself: very shortly the birds will fly off, after one or two preliminary circles round, to the feeding ground they have selected, though if properly fed they will not go far. all that has to be done is to observe where the ducks feed, and place the guns either in the line of flight between the birds' home and their feeding ground or round the feeding ground itself. no sport is more fascinating than this--the absolute solitude, the dull red glow of the light fading in the west, gradually getting fainter and fainter, the light shiver of the reeds, as a breath of wind rustles through them, and best of all the whistle of beating pinions high overhead, betokening the welcome intelligence that birds are circling round, and making a full inspection of the feeding ground before alighting. don't move now whatever you do, your retriever, sitting close at your side, will move his head quite enough, without your stirring as well: if you watch him you will soon get a pretty good idea as to where the birds are. presently the noise becomes louder, and then with a loud "swish" the birds come right at you. throw up your gun quietly and quickly and fire at once--don't dwell on your aim, and let us hope that the dog has no difficulty in retrieving a bird that was evidently cleanly killed. ducks, like other birds, always alight facing the wind, and this fact must be borne in mind when selecting the stand. should there be no wind to speak of, it is best to face the fading light, unless the ducks are known to make a practice of coming from one particular direction. they are most capricious birds, here to-day, and gone to-morrow, but this all adds to the fascination of the sport. i remember once killing eight ducks at a particular spot one evening, and not even getting a shot the next, although there were hundreds of ducks in the neighbourhood. very different sport to this does one get in the east. the man who goes flight shooting there is almost certain of good sport, provided he knows what he is about. well i remember a certain evening in upper burmah. it was at alon on the river chindwin, and during the last burmese war. we were not supposed to go far from the fort, but if we took an armed escort with us, no objection was raised. there was a large "jheel" about two miles from the fort, which was much overshot by the small garrison quartered there, and during the day little could be seen on its surface besides a few whistling teal, a duck that gives poor sport, and is only just worth eating. i discovered, however, that at dusk hundreds of ducks returned to the "jheel" from all directions, remaining there probably until dawn. followed by my soldier servant as an escort, i made my way to the "jheel," and having made our passage in one of the frail boats, known as "dug-outs," we eventually arrived at a small island which i had selected for my stand. never shall i forget that evening. for about twenty minutes i shot nearly as fast as i could load, and not too well, i am afraid. ducks of several different varieties were coming fast, and at all angles and elevations. many an old sportsman will understand my difficulties. i had of course no second gun, no ejector, and at times i utterly forgot the motto "festina lente." at last it was over, and i went home moderately satisfied with about five-and-twenty ducks, leaving, alas! a large number unpicked, as we had no dog. when your shoot is over, and the season is drawing to its close, the only work left amongst the ducks is to select the breeding stock for next season. the best to keep are long and well-furnished birds, as they always fly better, and lay more eggs than the short thick-set variety: they should have rakish-looking heads, with long bills, chrome yellow tinged with green in the case of the drake, and dull brown fringed with bright orange in the case of the duck. the eyes should be set high in the head, and the head itself _appear_ to be slightly angular in appearance, and not too round at the crown. i believe in fairly light coloured birds, as i have always noticed that any strange birds that arrive appear lighter in colour than my own, and i think that the darker and coarser birds do not fly so well. in any case get rid of all short thick-set birds--they will do for the table, but not for sport. in taking leave of my readers, i hope that i may have been fortunate enough to secure a little of their interest, and that this book may prove of some assistance to those who, like myself, love wild duck, and consider a few hours spent daily in their company an education and a treat. printed by ballantyne, hanson & co. edinburgh & london transcriber note text emphasis is dentoed as _italic_ and =bold=. u. s. department of agriculture. farmers' bulletin no. 64. ducks and geese: standard breeds and management. by george e. howard, _secretary of national poultry and pigeon association_. [illustration] washington: government printing office. 1897. letter of transmittal. u. s. department of agriculture, bureau of animal industry, _washington, d. c., september 24, 1897_. sir: i have the honor to transmit herewith, for publication as a farmers' bulletin, an article on ducks and geese, prepared by mr george e. howard, secretary of the national poultry and pigeon association. it comprises an enumeration of the standard breeds of ducks and geese, and contains suggestions for their management. the practical information contained in this bulletin will undoubtedly prove of value to persons engaged in raising ducks and geese, and its publication and widespread distribution are respectfully recommended. the illustrations were drawn by the author from original sketches and photographs, with the exception of three of the cross-bred geese, which are after the illustrations published by the rhode island experiment station, and the wild goose, which is after the illustration in wright's book of poultry. the author has received generous assistance in treating of the practical details from james rankin, a. j. hallock, george h. pollard, and others who are largely engaged an the raising of water fowls for market. respectfully, d. e. salmon, _chief of bureau_. hon. james wilson, _secretary_. contents. ducks. page. standard breeds of ducks 3 white pekin ducks (illustrated) 4 white aylesbury ducks (illustrated) 5 colored rouen ducks (illustrated) 8 black cayuga ducks (illustrated) 10 colored and white muscovy ducks (illustrated) 12 gray and white call ducks (illustrated) 14 black east indian ducks 15 crested white ducks (illustrated) 17 management of ducks 18 starting a plant (illustrated) 19 buildings for breeding ducks (illustrated) 20 brooding houses (illustrated) 22 supplying water (illustrated) 29 feeding 30 mixing feed 32 how much to feed 32 oyster shells and grit 33 killing and dressing for market (illustrated) 33 development of the duckling in the egg 34 natural incubation 36 artificial incubation 36 geese standard breeds of geese 38 gray toulouse geese (illustrated) 38 white embden geese (illustrated) 39 gray african geese (illustrated) 40 brown and white chinese geese (illustrated) 41 gray wild geese (illustrated) 43 colored egyptian geese (illustrated) 43 management of geese 44 mating and setting 45 feeding and dressing for market 47 cross breeding (illustrated) 48 ducks and geese. ducks. standard breeds of ducks. =introduction.=--there are ten standard breeds of ducks raised in this country, as follows: the white pekin, white aylesbury, colored rouen, black cayuga, colored muscovy, white muscovy, gray call, white call, black east indian, and the crested white. of these breeds, the first six are considered profitable to raise; the two breeds of calls and the black east indian are bantams, and are bred more for the showroom; the crested white may be considered as almost purely ornamental. [illustration: fig. 1.--white pekin duck.] white pekin ducks. =history.=--of all ducks for farm and practical purposes none stand higher in popular esteem than the white pekin (fig. 1). it is valuable for raising on a large scale, and is the most easily raised of any. it is a very timid bird and must be handled quite carefully. it was imported from china in the early seventies, and has steadily grown in popularity since its introduction into this country. [illustration: fig. 2.--group of white pekin ducks.] =description.=--the pekin duck has a distinct type of its own, and differs from all others in the shape and carriage of its body. by some it is credited with having a shape much like an indian canoe, owing to the full growth of feathers under the rump and the singular turned-up carriage of the tail. the legs are set far back, which causes the bird to walk in an upright position. in size these ducks are very large, some reaching as high as 20 pounds to the pair. their flesh is very delicate and free from grossness, and they are considered among the best of table fowls. they are excellent layers, averaging from 100 to 130 eggs each in a season. they are nonsetters, hardy, easily raised, and the earliest in maturing of any ducks. the method given in this bulletin for raising ducks is based on the pekin as a standard, and the treatment, food, housing, etc., is given as used by the largest and most successful raisers of pekins. other ducks are judged for practical qualities by the pekin. fig. 2 shows a group of white pekin ducks. the standard-bred pekin has a long finely formed head, a bill of medium size, of a deep yellow color, that is perfectly free from any mark or color other than yellow. the color of the bill is very important for exhibition birds, and it is not infrequent that one of the best ducks in a showroom is disqualified for having a faint tracing of black in the bill. the eyes are of deep leaden-blue color. the neck of a pekin should be neatly curved; in the drake it should be large and rather long, while that of the duck is of medium length. the back is long and broad; breast is round, full, and very prominent. the body is long and deep, and the standard gives for adult birds a body approaching the outlines of a parallelogram. the wings are short, carried closely and smoothly against the body. the birds can not sustain flight, a 2-foot fencing being ample to restrain them in an inclosure. the tail is erect, more so than in any other specimen. the curled feathers in the tail of the drake are hard and stiff. the thighs are short and large; shanks short and strong, and in color are a reddish orange; toes straight, connected by a web, and reddish orange in color. the plumage is downy, and of a faint creamy white throughout. recently it has been noticed that preference in the showroom is being given to birds of whiter plumage. the breeders are selecting as their show birds those that have the snow-white plumage instead of the creamy white, as given in the standard. =weight.=--the standard weight of the adult drake is 8 pounds; adult duck, 7 pounds; young drake, 7 pounds, and young duck, 6 pounds. white aylesbury ducks. =history.=--the white aylesbury ducks (fig. 3.) are second to the popular pekins for market purposes, and are bred in large numbers in england and europe. in this country they are not so extensively bred as the pekin, neither have they been found so good as the latter. these ducks receive their name from aylesbury, the county town of buckinghamshire, england. they are of large size, pairs occasionally reaching the weight of 18 pounds, the male birds weighing 9 or 10 pounds, and the female 7 or 8. birds weighing 15 to 16 pounds to the pair are the average. =description.=--the head of the aylesbury duck is long and neatly formed; the eyes of a deep leaden-blue color; the long, wide bill is of a pale flesh color or pinkish hue, and should be free from dark spots, bills marked with black being a disqualification; the neck is slender, long, and gracefully curved; the body is long and oval; the breast is full and round; the strong shanks are of brilliant light-orange color; the wings are strong and nicely folded; the back is both long and broad, and the tail formed of stiff, hard feathers. [illustration: fig. 3.--group of white aylesbury ducks.] the soft white plumage is one of the chief attractions of the aylesbury breed, and like most white plumage has a tendency to assume a yellow hue if exposed to the sun. the beak will also lose its delicate pink hue and become yellow if exposed to too much sunlight in summer. the bill of the pekin should be yellow, but the bill of the aylesbury should be a delicate pink or flesh color, and birds intended for exhibition must possess this quality or they will suffer at the hands of the judge. birds raised for exhibition purposes must be guarded against too much exposure to the sunlight in the summer. of course, these delicate points are of no consequence to the market poulterer other than to show the true type of the breed. for farm purposes the aylesbury is to be recommended, second only to the pekin; it possesses the many good qualities of the pekin, and can be bred with almost the same success. the advantages claimed for aylesbury are the ease with which it is acclimated, thriving in every country and climate; its early maturity; its great hardiness; its large size; its great prolificacy, and the real beauty which it possesses. raisers recommend for raising exhibition birds one drake to two ducks, or two drakes to five ducks, all being allowed to run together. duck raisers who raise large numbers for market breed them as they do pekins, using from four to eight females to one male, according to the season of the year. fresh blood is introduced every year to keep up the size, and breeding stock is seldom kept longer than the second or third year. the aylesbury being an english duck, it will be of interest to note the methods employed in their native place for raising them, as given by an english writer in the following statements: in and about the town of aylesbury very many of the cottagers maintain, each of them, a set of ducks, about 4 ducks to a drake. these they keep in any outbuilding attached to their dwellings and, failing such a place, in the cottage itself. from them the "duckers" (dealers peculiar to the trade) collect the eggs, and generally bargain with the owners for their whole supply at a given rate for the season. they begin their collection in october, and the contract is often made for the whole produce up to june. the breeding stock of a "ducker" who does an average trade consists of six drakes and twenty ducks; these all run together, and the brooks and ponds are looked upon almost as common property. they are separated at night, driven up to their respective homes, well fed and warmly housed. the eggs which were laid during the nighttime are set, as soon as possible, under large and attentive hens, for which purpose good dorkings and cochins are considered best. the ducks themselves are never allowed to sit, though they may desire to do so, as the result would be almost certain failure. thirteen eggs comprise a setting, and these are easily covered by a large hen. hens are set either in fish pads, small hampers, or, in what we have found most serviceable, the round boxes in which cheeses are packed. in the bottom of these is placed some lime or wood ashes, and then a nest of hay or some soft straw; there the hens must be kept as quiet as possible. special care must be taken to guard against the intrusion of rats or other vermin by which the hen mother may be disturbed and, as is often the case, the whole setting be destroyed thereby. the period of incubation is twenty-eight days, and during the last week of that time care must be taken to sprinkle the eggs daily with lukewarm water, which softens the shells, so that when the time comes for the duckling to make its appearance it has not much difficulty in breaking through its covering. when the young are hatched they should be left with the hen until well nestled, well dried, and strong enough to stand. many scores of ducklings are lost by inexperienced persons through their impatience to remove them from the nest. the little duckling is at first clad with soft, yellow down, which gradually disappears as the feathers grow. after a few days, three or four broods are put together with one hen, which is quite able to take care of them all. for market purposes the treatment of the ducklings is as follows: they are not allowed to go into any water, but are kept in hovels or the rooms of cottages, each lot of thirty or forty separated by low boards. it is no uncommon thing to see 2,000 or 3,000, all in one establishment. they are kept very clean and dry on barley straw; their food consists of hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine and mixed with boiled rice and bullock's liver, cut tip small. this is given to them several times in the day for about a fortnight or more. when they are capable of consuming more they are fed on barley meal and tallow greaves (cracklings), mixed together with the water in which the greaves previously have been boiled. some poultrymen also use horseflesh to mix with their other food. the above constitutes all that is necessary to produce early ducklings for the table. in plumage the aylesburys are a pure, spotless white, and feathers of any other color will disqualify them. drake and duck vary only in the ordinary respect of the male bird, showing a very handsome curled feather in the tail and being of a larger size than his mate. =weight.=--the standard weight of the adult drake is 9 pounds; adult duck, 8 pounds; young drake, 8 pounds, and young duck, 7 pounds. colored rouen ducks. =history.=--the colored rouen duck (fig. 4) is deservedly popular throughout this country, and is considered one of the most profitable breeds to keep. these ducks are said to have come originally from the city of rouen, in normandy. it is known that large quantities of poultry are raised in normandy, and while there may be no positive proof that these ducks came originally from that city, large numbers of birds closely resembling them are to be found in the market places there. some writers contend that the name should be "roan," owing to their color, but the color itself does not support this contention. the correct name is rouen, and "roan" is undoubtedly a corruption. =description.=--the rouen duck is a fine market bird, but does not mature as early as does the pekin or the aylesbury. the flesh is considered very delicate, and the breed is acknowledged to be superior for table purposes, being easily fattened. the rouen will be found a profitable bird to raise on the farm, being hardy, prolific, quiet in disposition, and of beautiful plumage. their eggs are not as large as those of the pekin, and are diverse in color. the rouen is undoubtedly closely related to the mallard duck; its plumage alone would make good this belief. but the shape of the domestic rouen duck has been greatly modified from that of the wild mallard; the body is grown longer and heavier, with a tendency to drop down in the rear; the wings have lost the power of flight which the wild ancestor possessed. the plumage, however, remains almost the same. [illustration: fig. 4.--trio of colored rouen ducks.] the standard-bred rouen drake has a long, finely-formed head, with rich, lustrous green plumage; bill long and broad, wider at the extremity, of greenish-yellow color, with a black bead at the tip; the neck is long, slender, and neatly curved, covered with the same lustrous green plumage as the head, which is interrupted by a distinct white ring, not quite complete behind, on the lower part of neck. the back is long, the upper part being ashy gray, mixed with green, and running into a rich, lustrous green on the lower part and rump; the shoulder coverts are gray, striped with fine, wavy lines of brown. the breast is broad and deep and purplish brown or claret color, perfectly free from gray feathers; the claret color should extend down as far as possible toward the legs. the body is long, deep, and broad, the under part and sides being a beautiful gray, which grows lighter near the vent, ending in solid black just beneath the tail. the wings are short and carried closely and smoothly against the sides; in color the wings are of a brownish gray, interspersed with green, and marked with a band of rich purple, with metallic reflections of green and blue lights, and edged with distinct white bands; the primary feathers are of a dark, dusky brown. the tail feathers are hard and stiff, and of a dark ashy-brown color; the outer edge in old birds is edged with white; the curled feathers are well curled and hard. the thighs are short and stout and of ashy-gray plumage; the shanks are short and strong, and in color orange with brownish tinge; the toes and webs are of the same color as the shanks. the head of the rouen duck, like that of the drake, is long and finely formed, but with a deep-brown plumage and two stripes of lighter brown extending from the beak to behind the eyes; bill, long, broad, and somewhat flat, brownish orange in color, blotched with darker shade upon the upper part and ending in a black beam at the tip. the neck is neatly curved, long and slender, light brown in plumage, penciled with a darker shade of the same color; unlike the drake, there is no white ring on the neck. the back is long, of a light-brown color richly marked with green; breast, full and round and of dark-brown plumage, penciled with lighter brown; body, long, deep, and broad, the under part and sides of plumage being grayish brown, each feather penciled with rich dark brown to the point of the tail. the wings are short for the size of the bird and are carried closely against the sides; the color of the plumage is grayish brown, intermingled with green, with bars of purple edged with white, the colors being distinct; primaries are brown. the tail feathers are stiff and of a light-brown color, distinctly marked with pencilings of dark greenish brown; tail coverts are brown, penciled with the same dark brown, or greenish brown, as the tail. the thighs are dark brown, penciled; and shanks, toes, and webs are orange or orange brown. both the rouen drake and duck, clothed in plumage attractive and pleasing to the eye, are as much fanciers' fowls as any of the varieties of chickens, yet they are of much value as market birds. the only objection to them, aside from their slow maturing qualities, is that of the dark pinfeathers. this should not stand against them any more than it does against the many valuable varieties of chickens that have dark plumage and dark pinfeathers. to the farmer who intends raising ducks for market purposes they are to be recommended. =weight.=--the standard weight of the adult drake is 9 pounds; adult duck, 8 pounds; young drake, 8 pounds, and young duck, 7 pounds. black cayuga ducks. =history.=--the black cayuga (fig. 5) is distinctly an american duck, having been bred so long in this country that all trace of its origin is lost. it is said that it was first found in the central part of new york, on cayuga lake. it was sometimes called the "big black duck," and again the "lake duck," but is now known only as the black cayuga duck. by some it is supposed to have originally come from the wild black duck, and another story has it that it was first found in dutchess county, in the state of new york, where a miller was raising a flock of thirty, which, he said, were bred from a pair he had captured several years previous in a mill pond. they were kept in the poultry yard, easily tamed, and built their nests on the edges of the pond and raised large broods. for many years the cayuga has been raised in this country and has been considered by those who have bred it to be a profitable duck to keep. [illustration: fig. 5.--pair of black cayuga ducks.] =description.=--by some raisers the cayuga is considered to be as good as the pekin for early markets, and the claim is made that it can be grown as cheaply. this assertion is not verified by any practical demonstration, as these ducks are rarely, if ever, seen on any farm where ducks are raised exclusively. though raisers generally speak of their merits as making them profitable, and place them next to the pekin for early markets, they prefer the latter for exclusive duck raising where early maturity and plump carcasses are wanted. their black plumage is against them also, and many assign this as the reason why they are not more extensively bred. the farmer who desires a good, practical duck to raise on his farm in conjunction with other poultry will find this a valuable bird to keep. more time can be spent in dressing it for market than is generally given to the dressing of the white-plumage birds, and the profits will be proportionately as great. duck raisers, like broiler raisers, are partial to white feathers for market fowls, but those who do not look with this partiality on the white varieties will find an excellent choice in the cayuga duck. cayugas are splendid birds for a restricted range and breed well in confinement; they are quiet, docile, and form a strong attachment for their home, evincing no inclination or desire to stray far away from the place where they were bred. they are hardy and prolific, producing from 80 to 90 eggs in the spring, and sometimes they also lay again in the autumn. they are easily kept in good condition, but if fed too liberally they will fatten too quickly and will become too heavy behind. the ducklings are hardy and easy to raise, and attain good size and weight at an early age. the head of the cayuga is small, with glossy black plumage; bill rather short and broad, of dark color, black being preferred; the eyes dark hazel. the neck is medium, gracefully curved, clad in black feathers with a greenish luster; the back is broad, and the body long, well rounded, and very plump, the feathers being of a glossy black hue. the wings are long and are carried smoothly against the body, and are black in color, excepting those of the duck, which are sometimes of a dark brown. the coverts of the drake are a very lustrous green black; the tail feathers are black, as are the thighs. black shanks, toes, and webs are preferred, though dark slate color is permissible according to the standard requirements. the color of the plumage must be lustrous black throughout, and feathers of any other color will disqualify a bird in the showroom. =weight.=--the standard weight of the adult drake is 8 pounds; adult duck, 7 pounds; young drake, 7 pounds, and young duck, 6 pounds. colored and white muscovy ducks. =history.=--muscovy ducks (fig. 6) form a distinct genus, having several peculiarities or characteristics which make them different from others. they are sometimes called the musk duck, owing to the odor of musk which pervades the skin, but which is not noticeable when cooked. these ducks are found wild in the warmer regions of south america. in brazil they are extensively domesticated and are prized very highly for eating. in this country and europe, particularly in germany, they are bred in large numbers. wild muscovies are easily frightened and very good flyers; they fly into trees when alarmed and remain there for long periods of time before leaving their place of concealment. they sometimes build their nests in branches of trees, and also in hollows near water. =description.=--muscovy ducks are very unsatisfactory birds to keep on the farm with other poultry, owing to their quarrelsome and pugnacious natures. in the wild state, before pairing, the males tight desperately, doing great harm to each other; and this fighting, quarrelsome disposition is inherited by the domestic duck. the temper of the drake is spoken of as abominable; his persecution of other poultry is never ceasing, and he is credited with having attacked even children when his "dander was up." the flesh of the muscovy is considered very good when eaten young, and compares favorably with that of any other duck. they do not lay nearly so many eggs as the common kinds. when bred they must be kept in yards by themselves, and their wings must be clipped to keep them from flying. [illustration: fig. 6.--pair of white muscovy ducks.] the head of the muscovy duck is rather long, and in the drake it is large, the top being covered with long crest-like feathers, which rise and fall when the bird is alarmed. the bill is of medium length and very stout. the face is the most distinctive part of these ducks, the cheeks being naked, with a scarlet, fleshy space around the eyes, and the base of the bill carunculated also with scarlet folds. this large, red face gives them a savage appearance, and to some it is hideous. the neck is well curved and of medium length; back broad and flat, breast full and broad, and body long and broad. the wings are very long and stout, and the tail is rather long, with abundance of stiff feathering. the drake does not have the curled feathers in the tail, as do other ducks. there are two varieties of muscovy ducks, the colored and the white. the head of the colored muscovy is glossy black and white; the bill is dark horn in color; eyes, brown; the back in color of plumage is lustrous blue black, which is sometimes broken with white; the color of the breast and body is the same as that of the back. the wing coverts are rich, lustrous green black, and the tail feathers may be either black or white, the latter being preferred. the thighs, like the tail feathers, may be either black or white, white being preferred; the shanks, toes, and webs vary in color from yellow to dark lead or black. the white muscovy in color of plumage is pure white throughout; feathers of any other color will disqualify the bird for show purposes. the eyes in the white variety are of a leaden-blue or gray color, while those of the colored are brown. the shanks, toes, and webs are of a pale-orange or yellow color. =weight.=--the standard weight of the adult drake is 10 pounds; adult duck, 8 pounds; young drake, 8 pounds, and young duck, 7 pounds. gray and white call ducks. [illustration: fig. 7.--pair of white call ducks.] =history.=--call ducks are bantams, and are bred more for the fancy than for the profit there is in them for market. there are two kinds of call ducks, the gray call and the white call (fig. 7), and it is only a choice of plumage as to which is the better of the two. they are both of one character as to size, shape, and habits, and differ only as regards color. the gray call is very similar in color of plumage to the rouen, and is indeed called by many the bantam rouen, and the white is generally called the bantam pekin. their uses are only for the showroom, or as decoy ducks for wild-duck shooting. for the latter purpose they are sometimes crossed with the common "puddle duck" or with the wild mallard. this latter cross is considered excellent, the progeny being distinguished for tameness and domesticity. =description.=--when breeding call ducks, smallness of size is the first consideration; the smaller they are bred the better. the arts of skillful breeding for the showroom are being used in keeping down the size of these ducks. inbreeding has been resorted to, while late hatching, scanty feeding, and nonbone-making food have been the means that have retarded their natural development. the head of the call duck is full and round; bill, short and broad; neck of medium length, and back comparatively short; the breast is round and full, and body short, round, and compact, with medium-sized wings; the thighs are short and stout, and shanks short. the gray call drake is a beautiful little bird, with a rich, lustrous green head, dark-hazel or brown eyes, lustrous green neck, with a white ring on the lower part of neck, as in the rouen. the back is of ashy-gray plumage mixed with green on the upper part, while the lower part and rump are a rich, lustrous green. the under part of the body on the sides is a beautiful gray, which grows lighter toward the vent, and ends in solid black under the tail. the wings are grayish brown, mixed with green, and have the broad ribbon-like mark of rich purple with metallic reflections of green and blue, distinctly edged with white. the primaries are a dark, dusky brown. the tail feathers are of a dark, ashy brown, the outer web in old birds being edged with white; the tail coverts are black, with very rich purple reflections. the bill is greenish yellow in color, while the shanks, toes, and webs are orange, with a brownish tinge. the duck's head is deep brown, and has two pale-brown stripes on each side, like the head of the rouen duck, running from the bill to a point behind the eyes. her bill is of a brownish-orange color, and her eyes are dark hazel or brown. the neck is light brown, penciled with darker brown; breast, dark brown, penciled with lighter brown; back, light brown, marked with green, and the under parts and sides of body are grayish brown, each feather distinctly penciled with rich dark brown. the plumage of wing is grayish brown, mixed with green, and is crossed by a broad bar of rich purple edged with white; the primaries are brown. the tail feathers are of a light-brown color, with distinct, broad, wavy penciling of dark greenish brown; tail coverts are brown, with broad penciling of dark brown or greenish brown; thighs are dark brown; shanks, toes, and webs are orange brown. the white gall is pure white in plumage throughout, and feathers of any other color will disqualify it. it is in every respect like the gray call except in plumage, in the color of the eyes, which are a gray or blue, and the color of the shanks, which are a bright orange. =weight.=--no standard weight is given for call ducks. black east indian ducks. =history.=--another standard breed of ducks which is hardly considered a rival of the pekin, aylesbury, cayuga, or rouen, is the black east indian. this duck bears the same relation to those just named as does the bantam to the larger varieties of chickens. the black east indian and the call ducks are the bantam breeds of ducks, being bred more for their smallness of size than for their profitableness. the same devices are resorted to in breeding them as were mentioned for breeding the call ducks. =description.=--the east indian duck is hardy, and would, if carefully bred from the largest and best specimens, grow to a fairly good size, and be profitable to keep. in weight they seldom grow larger than 2 to 2â½, pounds each. the close inbreeding to which they have been subjected has been detrimental to their egg production, while those strains which have not been so closely bred have proved very prolific. it may be said in favor of these ducks, that if allowed to increase in size, which they will readily do under favorable circumstances, they would prove very profitable to those who prefer keeping small-sized birds to the larger ones. the east indian duck is very shy in its habits, and is given to long flights, but if attention is shown them in feeding they become attached to their home surroundings. they can not be successfully bred in confinement; their natures are roaming and they like freedom of life. the first eggs of a litter laid by these ducks are sooty or nearly black in color, but they gradually grow lighter until they assume the color common to the eggs of most varieties. they are splendid sitters, and will invariably steal their nests if permitted to do so, but the duck and brood when hatched should be confined for a couple of weeks, that the young may not be exposed until they have gained some strength and size. the head of the black east indian duck is short and small; eyes dark hazel; bill rather short. the head of the drake is of a dark yellowish green, free from all spots or blemishes, and the duck's head is very dark, almost black. the exact coloring of the bill of the drake is considered of the utmost importance. it is described by an enthusiast as being a sort of pale yellow, washed over with blackish green, the color being laid on thinly, as it were, so as to give an almost transparent effect, and shaded off at the tip into a kind of slate color. by another raiser the color of the bill is described as an olive green. the neck is neatly curved and short; back, of good length and medium width. the breast is full, round, and plump. the body is long and comparatively small; wings of medium length and nicely folded; tail short, and in the drake has the curled feathers. the thighs are short and stout, and shanks are short and rather small. the plumage is a rich black, with a brilliant greenish tint throughout. the color of the plumage is of much worth to the beauty of these ducks; it must be intensely black, rich in greenish' reflections, and perfectly free from white. the plumage upon the neck, back, and shoulder coverts will show more of the green than will the underparts, the coloring of the drake surpassing that of the duck. it is seemingly a difficult matter to breed specimens of the required color of plumage; more especially is it so with the duck, whose plumage is likely to be of a brownish tint. these ducks are quite likely to show more or less white in plumage. the white feathers usually appear about the eyes and also upon the breast. birds that have been free from white as ducklings have been known to molt almost pure white. the ducklings when first hatched are black, with a shade of yellow on the breast, and with jet-black feet, shanks, and bill. when breeding these ducks use two females to one male, and the eggs will prove very fertile. the young will be very hardy after five or six weeks of age, and there should be no trouble in rearing them after that time. give the youngsters free range and they will find nearly their whole living in grasses, insects, etc. =weight.=--there is no standard weight given for black east indians; the smaller their size the higher they rank for exhibition purposes. crested white ducks. _history._--the crested white duck (fig. 8) is what may be called an ornamental duck, much the same as polish chickens. they are not bred to any great extent in this country, and they are very seldom seen in the showrooms. they have no especial value to the farmer, as better and more easily-bred birds are to be found in the pekin and aylesbury. [illustration: fig. 8.--pair of crested white ducks.] =description.=--these ducks have a medium-sized head; medium-sized bill; a large, well-balanced crest upon the crown of the head; a rather long neck; a medium-length back; breast, round and full; body, round and of medium length; medium-length wings that smoothly fold; hard, stiff tail feathers, with well-curled feathers in the tail of drake; and short and stout thighs and shanks. their eyes are large and bright and of a deep leaden blue or gray color. the shanks, toes, and webs are of a light-orange color. =weight.=--the standard weight of the adult drake is 7 pounds; adult duck, 6 pounds; young drake, 6 pounds, and young duck, 5 pounds. management of ducks. duck raising has been developed within the last ten years into a flourishing industry. prior to that time the duck was not considered a profitable fowl to raise; its flesh was never prized very highly by the masses. ducks were raised without constraint in waterways, feeding mostly on fish and water insects. this food gave the flesh a strong fishy flavor; hence it was not particularly sought after, save by the few who were partial to that class of diet. the duck centers of long island and new england were then producing a limited number each season, and it was with difficulty that these were sold with any profit. in fact, one of the most prominent duck raisers may be quoted as saying that he was obliged to visit the city markets personally and tease the dealers to purchase his birds, in order to secure anything like satisfactory prices. artificial incubation and brooding, combined with judicious feeding, have been instrumental in the development of the industry. machinery has enabled the duck raiser to accomplish his ambition of having his stock in the markets when prices are the best, and also of raising large numbers of birds in a limited space of time. the season for raising ducks is about six months--from february to july. the methods employed by the most successful raisers will be given in this bulletin, and the most approved buildings, appliances, feeding, and care will be treated in detail. duck raising is to be recommended to farmers as a profitable source of revenue; and by careful attention to the work, as knowledge increases, the scope of the industry may be extended. there are numbers of farms in this country to-day that are devoted exclusively to raising ducks, averaging from 5,000 to 20,000 ducks as an annual output. an idea of the proportions of the business may be had from the fact that as high as three tons of feed are used daily by a single raiser during the busy season. the profits are the very best, and good incomes may be made when once the business is thoroughly mastered. but the reader should not jump imprudently to the conclusion that these results can be easily obtained. duck raising is an arduous task; one that requires an apprenticeship and absolute knowledge of the business before success is reached. those who have been successful in raising ducks have learned the business much as one does any other vocation. the beginner should start modestly, and increase his plant as his knowledge of the work increases. the average farmer has all the facilities for raising a goodly number of ducks, and may with a little outlay add considerably to his income. it is not at all necessary that ducks should have access to water to be raised successfully; they grow and thrive as readily without. there are successful plants where thousands of ducks are raised that have no water, save that which is given them as drink. it has been a matter of much dispute which is the better way. some duck raisers use water and allow their breeders the freedom of it; some allow their growing stock intended for market free access to water until they are eight weeks old, when they are penned and fattened for market. on the other hand, there are raisers who have no water on their farms, excepting wells, who are just as successful and raise as many birds as those who have the water. the only noticeable difference between "upland" and "water" ducks is that the latter are of prettier and cleaner plumage than the former. [illustration: fig. 9.--plans for a duck plant.] starting a plant. a duck plant should be located on a line of railroad in direct communication with the city markets, and not too far from the station. almost any location will do for the plant, and worn-out land, that can be had cheap, will do as well as the richer and more fertile land costing several times as much. sandy sod is to be preferred. the buildings should be arranged to secure good drainage and be convenient to each other, that labor may be reduced to a minimum. the labor attached to raising poultry is an item that is overlooked by many, and the cost of it often reduces very notably the earnings of the plant. every department of the plant should be so located as to economize the time of the attendants. the incubator cellar should be convenient to the brooder house, the brooder house to the growing house and pens, and these to the killing house. the feed house should be located conveniently to the brooder and growing houses and the breeding pens. the task of feeding the growing stock four times a day and the breeding stock twice a day is no small one. watering is also to be thought about. the exact arrangement of a plant suited to all locations can not be given, as each locality differs from others in some respect, and what may be suitable for one will hardly do for the other. the plans of no two of the largest plants are alike. they differ in location of the buildings to suit the lay of the land; but they all have the same general idea of the convenience of each building to the others. illustration of this will be seen in fig. 9. when laying out a plant, make provisions for future enlargement; allow plenty of room on all sides to extend the buildings without rendering inconvenient the work that will be necessary to attend to the additional stock. buildings for breeding ducks. [illustration: fig. 10.--house for breeding ducks.] houses for ducks are single affairs. they are built plain and comfortable, and have no furnishings whatever. a duck is differently constituted from a hen, and must be cared for under different conditions. the hen needs warmer houses and drier surroundings than does the duck. a duck does not mind the cold, if she can keep her feet warm; cold feet will affect a duck as a frozen comb does a hen, retarding laying and inducing ailments. the feathers of a duck are almost impenetrable and will withstand almost any degree of cold. again, a duck can not stand the amount of confinement in a house that a hen can; she is more restless in disposition and is given to exercise in a greater degree than is a hen. indigestion is not so prevalent with ducks as with chickens; the duck's ceaseless motion aids the digestive organs and keeps her generally in good health. in fig. 10 is shown a simple house that may be built at small expense. it is plain and has a shed roof. such a house should be built of rough boards, 12 inches by 1 inch, and joints covered by 3-inch by 1-inch strips. the roof should be made water-tight and covered with tarred paper, shingles, or tin. the outside should be well drained around the bottom, that it may not be damp. some advocate board floors, raised from 6 to 8 inches from the ground and covered from 4 to 6 inches with dry earth, straw, or leaves. the writer favors the using of board floors in all houses for chickens, but thinks it not essential for ducks. if the house is well drained on the outside and the earth floor is covered with hay, straw, or leaves, it will be perfectly satisfactory. there must not be dampness in the house, as the birds will not do so well; while they are given to water on the outside they must have comfortable quarters in which to "warm up," or "dry out." the building shown in fig. 10 may be constructed of any dimensions desired, according to the size of flock to be kept. a house 12 by 14 feet will accommodate nicely a flock of a dozen. there are no interior arrangements whatever, simply the floor surface of the building. it is better not to use nests. some raisers use a plain nest, as shown in fig. 11. these nests are made of 1-inch boards, 12 inches high and 16 inches long, set 14 inches apart, and held together in front with a 3-inch strip. the nests are nailed to the back of the house. but more than half the eggs are laid on the floor of the house or in the yard, and, if permitted, a duck will build herself a nest to her liking. again, a duck is liable to injure herself by falling over the strips in front of nests or other obstructions that may be in the house. in fig. 12 is shown the nest of a wild duck. [illustration: fig. 11.--nests for ducks.] [illustration: fig. 12.--nest of wild duck.] when two or more breeding pens are to be kept, the plan of the house shown in fig. 10 may be extended to any length desired, as shown in fig. 13. in figs. 14 and 15 are shown two more designs of duck houses, which are practical and cheap, and may be built singly or in rows for a number of pens. either of these houses, and also that shown in fig. 10, make excellent breeding houses for the farmer to keep ducks in. an inclosure should be given the breeding ducks, as they do better confined than when at liberty. give plenty of room and inclose the run with 2-inch wire mesh 2 feet wide. if water is accessible, it should be inclosed by the mesh-wire fencing of the same width as for the run. in fig. 16 is shown a duck house with water runs, and also the arrangement of wire runs in the water. this is an admirable plan for farmers who have running water on their farms. brooding houses. the general construction of a brooder house is similar to that of the breeding house, and differs only in interior arrangements. the latter has no interior arrangements whatever, while the former has the system of heating and covers necessary for giving warmth to the young stock. in fig. 17 is shown a design of single-brooder house and ground plan that is generally used by duck raisers. this house should be built upon a good foundation and be entirely proof against rats. a good plan is to sink half-inch wire mesh about 2 feet in the ground and around the entire inside of the building; this will make it perfectly secure against rats and mice. the accepted plan of a brooder house makes it 15 feet wide and as long as desired. the building is 4 feet high in front and 5 feet in rear. ground plan. [illustration: fig. 13.--plan and ground plan of five-pen breeding house for ducks.] it is divided into pens 12 feet long and 6 feet wide, and has a 3 foot passageway extending the entire length of the building. the ground plan (fig. 17) shows the general arrangement of the interior and location of the brooders. the brooder box is next to the passageway, or walk, and runs the entire length of the building. this box is 30 inches wide and 8 inches high; the sides are 7 inches high and nailed securely; the top of the cover is nailed across with cleats to make it substantial, and the cover has an inch strip nailed underneath in front and back to keep it in position. these strips rest against the 7-inch sides and make the brooder snug and tight when closed. the heating pipes are directly beneath the cover and are 2-inch pipes, flow and return. some prefer 1-inch pipes, using two flows and two returns. when three pipes are used they should be about 8 inches apart from center to center. these pipes rest on the partition boards of the pens. the front of the brooder, leading into the pens, is cut out in the center about 4 inches deep and 4 feet long (fig. 18, _a_), while the ends and the other side are solid, being 7 inches high. the construction of the brooder is clearly shown in fig. 18, _b_, with cover removed, while fig. 18, _c_, shows cover. the heater is located at the end of building. [illustration: fig. 14.--house for breeding ducks.] another plan of brooder house is that shown in fig. 19. this house is known as a double brooder house, with walk in the center and pens on either side, and with heater at the end. many prefer this plan to the single brooder house, as the care and attention required for the youngsters is much less and the cost of heating is reduced, one heater being sufficient for both lines of pipes. then, again, this latter plan shortens the length of the building by one-half and makes the work more concentrated. the arrangement of the interior is the same as that of the single brooder house. [illustration: fig. 15.--house for breeding and growing ducks.] the plans of brooder houses, as given above, are for ducklings from the time they are taken from the machines until they are ready for the cold brooder, or growing house. the young ducklings, when taken from the nest or incubator, are very delicate and susceptible to the changes of the atmosphere; they must be kept very warm and free from chilling. the first three weeks of a duckling's life is the most critical period, and after that time the liabilities of loss are reduced to a very low rate--hardly five to the hundred. the front of brooders for young ducklings should be hung with strips of woolen cloth to keep in the warmth of the brooder. the greatest care should be given them at this period; the duck raisers really consider it the most important part of their work, and after a bird has passed the "critical age" they may be counted on for the market. [illustration: fig. 16.--house for breeding ducks, showing water runs.] usually the care of the ducklings at this age is given to the women. they are more careful of the wants of the youngsters and attend to the detail work religiously. a case is known of a single attendant living, as it were, in the brooder house with the ducklings. she began her work with the morning feed at 6 a. m., and until sundown, when the night's meal was given, she was with her charges. the cleanliness of the brooder and pen was carefully attended to and everything was done to promote the health and comfort of the youngsters. at night they were all in their brooders and as snug as it was possible for them to be. a single neglect in the starting of a duckling will result in loss to the raisers. system is the key to the situation, and there should be no deviation from it whatever. [illustration: fig. 17.--single brooder houses and ground plan.] the duckling goes from the warm brooder house to the cold brooder house. the latter house is planned in a way similar to the former, with the exception of the 30-inch brooders. when the birds are taken from the warm brooder house they are three weeks old and of sufficient age to withstand a cooler temperature. they do not need the extra heat of the warm house, and in it would not grow nearly so well. the size of pens in the growing house is larger, and the ducklings are not crowded so many in a pen. if the birds are to be raised in colonies of one hundred each, the accommodations should be ample for them. it has never been proved to be good policy to crowd the growing stock; it retards their growth and encourages disease. the cold brooder house should have a system of heating if birds are to be raised for an early market. the same system of pipes used in the warm brooders should be run around the sides of the building, about 2 or 3 feet from the floor. this will give sufficient heat for the house and keep the birds comfortable. these pipes may be connected with the same heater used for running the warm brooder pipes. in the northern states, in extremely cold weather, raisers also use the heating pipes in the warm brooder house in addition to the cold brooder pipes. [illustration: fig. 18.--plans of brooder.] an excellent plan is shown in fig. 20 for the arrangement of the heater for connecting the pipes in the warm and cold double brooder house. it will be seen that the heater is placed in the center of the building; the warm brooder house is shown on the right and the cold brooder house with runs attached is shown on the left, and pipes, indicated by dotted lines, run in both directions. this is the most economical house to build and lessens the work in attending the stock. the room in the center of the building will be found very useful and is generally used as the feed room. the heater is in the cellar beneath this room. this plan is used by one of the largest and most successful raisers of ducks on long island, and it has his highest indorsement. the building may be of any size, the plan being as successfully carried out on a large scale as on a small one. if a small building is used at first, it may be enlarged on either end to suit the growing business, and extended upward of 100 feet in either direction, thus making the building more than 200 feet in length. the heater must be considered, when put in, with this object in view. a heater capable of heating the 200-foot house can easily be regulated to heat one of 50 feet, but a heater that will heat properly only a 50-foot or 100-foot house would be insufficient to heat the larger one. another difference between the cold brooder house and the warm brooder house is that the former has outside runs attached. these runs are used for feeding and watering when the weather permits, instead of the feeding troughs inside the house. the ducks should be allowed the freedom of the outside runs as soon as the weather is suitable. ducks like a life in the outer world, and they will grow more rapidly there than when they are confined to the house. [illustration: fig. 19.--plans of a double brooder house.] [illustration: fig. 20.--plan of a double brooder house, showing arrangement of beating pipes.] ducklings are kept in the cold brooder house until they are six or seven weeks old, when they are transferred to large quarters known as growing houses. it is here that they are pushed for the market until they are 10 weeks old, when they are salable. there is no heat in the growing houses, which are used only as a means of shelter during the early spring months. when the weather is well advanced, the ducks seldom take to the houses at night; they prefer the outside and spend their nights on the ground. the growing houses should be abundantly ventilated, as too close an atmosphere will do more harm in a single night than if they had not been housed at all. [illustration: fig. 21.--house for growing ducks.] [illustration: fig. 22.--two-pen house for growing ducks.] [illustration: fig. 23.--three-pen house for growing ducks.] a pekin duck at 10 weeks is quite large, weighing close to 4 pounds. it is quite as large as a full-grown duck of some of the other breeds. in the space of two or three weeks from the time the ducklings are placed in the growing houses they will be marketed at the weight of 4 to 5â½ pounds each. this weight is easily obtained, and when reached the profitable time to sell has arrived, as they then command the best prices. often a bird kept after this time loses in weight and becomes unprofitable. the growing houses are built after the plan of the breeding houses, only much smaller. they need not be more than 4 or 5 feet high in rear and 1 or 2 feet high in front. such a house is shown in fig. 21. this and other houses shown in figs. 22 and 23 may be built singly or in rows, with 12-inch boards separating the runs. supplying water. [illustration: fig. 24.--gutter water trough.] as has been previously stated, water for bathing is not at all necessary for growing ducks, but a liberal supply for drinking is absolutely essential to their growth. the food of the duck is such as to require drink when eating, as it is comparatively dry and can not be eaten hurriedly as grain is. when feeding, always replenish the water troughs or fountains with pure, fresh water. a duck when feeding will eat a small quantity and go to the water troughs, for drink, repeating this performance several times during the meal. conveniences for supplying drinking water to breeding and growing ducks are varied, and almost any contrivance will answer the purpose. when small numbers of ducks are kept, the simplest method of supplying water is in wooden troughs. these may be built v-shape or with square bottoms. they are shown in figs. 24 and 25. [illustration: fig. 25.--flat water trough.] for smaller ducks, those kept in the warm brooder house, the fountain plan is to be preferred, as the youngsters can not get into the water and become wet or chilled. these fountains may be made of air-tight cans for the reservoir and a tin plate 2 inches larger in diameter than the can. a tomato can and an ordinary tin pie plate make an excellent fountain. remove the top of the can and punch a small hole in the side about a quarter of an inch from the free top edge; fill the can with water and place it inverted on the plate. the water will run out until it reaches in the plate the level of the hole in the can. the plate will not overflow and water will be supplied automatically. [illustration: fig. 26.--plan for supplying water by pipes.] some raisers use a pan--a pie plate, for instance--and place a stone several inches smaller in diameter than the pan in the center, leaving a margin for water around the edge. when large numbers of birds are kept, it is of course necessary that a system for watering be adopted for saving labor. a practical system in use is where the water is supplied by 1-inch pipes and having a cock in each pen directly over the water trough. fig. 26 shows a diagram drawing of this plan. the flow of the cocks is regulated by having the one in the first pen run very slowly and gradually increasing the flow of the water in each pen. thus all the troughs will be full at the same time. the pipe should rest on top of the fencing about 2 feet high which divides the runs. this plan of watering can also be used in brooder houses to good advantage. feeding. the food of the duck is both vegetable and animal in nature. in the wild state it gathers its food from brooks and marshes, consisting of flag, grasses, small fishes, water insects, etc. when the birds are raised in confinement this diet must, in a measure, be imitated to get the most satisfactory results. the duck has no crop, the food passing directly from the throat to the gizzard, and as a consequence the food must be in a soft mushy state. too much hard food, such as grain, does not agree with these birds and they can not thrive on it. while some raisers use a small allowance of grain others do not, and it has not been proved to be of any advantage to feed it. soft food is their natural diet, together with grasses, vegetables, and animal food. the proper selection of the food is extremely important to secure the rapid growth of the duck, and the ingredients of the food must be such as will afford a well-balanced and substantial ration. as a whole, it may be said that the rations used by the largest duck raisers are essentially the same, differing only in the quantities used in the mixing. investigations show the real values of the food to be the same for producing rapid growth and early development. the duckling grows twice as rapidly and is a much heavier eater than the chick, and to produce the best results its food must be such as will be easily assimilated. the various methods of feeding given in this bulletin are recommended for raising ducks successfully. it costs from 6 to 12 cents a pound to raise a duck for market at ten weeks of age. the cost of feed is from 4â½ to 5 cents a pound, and that of labor, etc., is from 4 to 8 cents a pound. it costs from $1.75 to $2.50 each to keep breeding ducks a year. the three different methods of feeding ducks are as follows: (1) feeding ducks for market (ten weeks old); (2) feeding young ducks to be kept as breeders; (3) feeding old ducks. the first method, for the sake of convenience and to explain more fully the composition of the rations, is subdivided into four parts, as follows. (1) from time of hatching to five days old provide the following mixture: cracker or bread crumbs and corn meal, equal parts by measure; hard boiled eggs, 15 per cent of the total bulk of crackers and meal; sand, 5 per cent of the total of crackers and meal. mix with water or milk, and feed four times a day. (2) from five to twenty days old, the following mixture: wheat bran, two parts by measure; corn meal, one part; rolled oats, 50 per cent of this bulk; beef scraps, 5 per cent; sand, 5 per cent; green food, 10 per cent. mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed four times a day. (3) from twenty to forty-two days old, the following mixture: wheat bran, two parts by measure; corn meal, one part; beef scraps, 5 per cent of this bulk; sand, 5 per cent; green food, 10 per cent. mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed four times a day. (4) from forty-two to seventy days old, the following mixture: corn meal, two parts by measure; wheat bran, one part; beef scraps, 10 per cent of this bulk; coarse sand or grit, 5 per cent; green food, 10 per cent. mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed four times a day. the hours for feeding are 6 a. m., 10 a. m., 2 p. m., and 6 p. m. below is given another system of feeding ducks for marketing at ten weeks of age. this system is practically the same as the one given above, differing only in the ingredients used for the first two parts or until the duckling is twenty days old. the method given below is used successfully by one of the largest duck raisers on long island. it is divided into three parts, as follows: (1) from time of hatching to seven days old, feed equal parts by measure, corn meal, wheat bran, and no. 2 grade flour, and 10 per cent of this bulk coarse sand. mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed four times a day. (2) from seven to fifty-six days old, feed equal parts by measure, corn meal, wheat bran, and no. 2 grade flour; 10 per cent of this bulk beef scraps; 10 per cent coarse sand, and 12â½ per cent green foods (green rye, oats, clover, etc.). mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed four times a day. (3) from fifty-six to seventy days old, feed two parts by measure. corn meal; one part wheat bran; one part no. 2 grade flour; 12â½ per cent of this bulk beef scraps; 10 per cent coarse sand; 12â½ percent green food. mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed three times a day--morning, noon, and night. give last feed an hour before sundown. when ducks are raised for breeders they are fed differently from those intended for market. they are not forced so much as are the latter, and less fattening food is given them. the corn meal and beef scraps are reduced to one-half the quantity used in the above rations. the following is an excellent ration: equal parts corn meal, wheat bran, green food, 5 per cent beef scraps, and 5 per cent coarse sand or grit. a ration for breeding (laying) ducks is recommended as follows: fifty per cent, by measure, corn meal; 15 per cent wheat bran; 15 per cent green foods (cooked vegetables, such as potatoes, turnips, etc.); 12 per cent beef scraps, and 8 per cent coarse sand or grit. mix with water to a dry crumbly state and feed twice a day, morning and night. after the breeding season is over and the ducks have stopped laying they are changed from this to the equal-parts ration, as given above for ducklings from seven to fifty-six days old. mixing feed. the feeding stuffs should be mixed in a trough sufficiently large to hold the quantity without wasting over the edges. first mix the corn meal and bran together while dry; after these have mixed thoroughly, making an evenly colored mixture, it should be moistened with water and mixed to a dry, crumbly state. it should not be too wet or sloppy, as it is then not so good for the fowls, neither can it be handled and fed properly. warm water should be used when the weather is excessively cold. in a second trough place the green foods, such as cut rye, oats, etc., and dampen with water; then mix the allowance of the no. 2 grade flour with it. thoroughly mix, so that the flour will completely cover the green stuff. after this has been done mix the flour and green mixture with the corn meal and bran mixture and add the allowance of beef scraps and sand. when vegetables are used, they should be well cooked before mixing in the rations. the duck raisers on long island use large quantities of fish for their breeding stock. this is known as the "fish diet," and is considered as being very valuable to induce egg production. where fish are cheap they form an excellent substitute for beef scraps in the rations for breeding ducks or ducks not intended for market, but under no circumstances should fish be fed to stock that will be marketed. fish makes the flavor of the flesh strong and ducks fed on fish will not have ready sales in the market. the fish are cooked by boiling in iron camp kettles until well done, and then mixed, bones and all, in the rations as given above for breeding ducks. when fish is used the beef scraps are omitted. how much to feed. the amount of feed needed each day for young ducks varies as much as does their growth. their growth averages a half pound a week, and to make this increase of weight each week requires an additional quantity of food over the preceding one. the rule is, feed each meal what they will eat up clean with a relish, and do not allow them to linger over the feed trough. it is better they should have not enough than too much, as they will be in a much better condition to relish the next meal. one thing is considered to be of as much importance as the feed, and that is removing the feed left over and thoroughly cleaning the troughs after each meal. this is scrupulously attended to by successful duck raisers. one raiser gives, as a generous allowance for one day's ration for one hundred laying ducks, the following: for the morning meal, 35 quarts of the mash, and for the evening meal 40 quarts, making a total of 75 quarts for the day's portion, or three-fourths of a quart to each duck a day. another raiser allows 400 quarts, fed in halves, twice a day, to six hundred breeding or laying ducks, averaging two-thirds of a quart to each duck a day. there are many patterns of feed troughs in use, hardly any two being alike. they are simple affairs, the simpler the better, as they are more easily kept clean. the designs given for water troughs are equally as good for feed troughs and answer the purpose very well. each pen of birds should have two troughs, one for water and the other for feed, built proportionately to suit the age and size of the birds they are intended for. make them of sufficient length to avoid crowding, so that all the birds in each pen will have ample room to eat at the same time. oyster shells and grit. grit in some form is essential to ducks and should be kept before them at all times. many overlook this fact and do not seem to understand that it is of as much value to them as it is to chickens. the sand used in the mashes tends to supply a certain amount of grinding material or grit to them, but does not fully satisfy them for digesting their food. on a farm where more than ten thousand birds are raised annually, and where disease is practically unknown, it was noted that in every pen there was a box of grit and a box of crushed oyster shells. this raiser states that he considers grit and oyster shells an absolute necessity for ducks, and he attributes the healthy appearance of his stock to it. his birds eat it freely and the supply is never allowed to run out. killing and dressing for market. there are two methods of dressing ducks for market, by dry picking and by scalding. both of these methods are good and are being successfully employed by the largest raisers. some have a preference for dry picking and others for scalding, and it becomes only a matter of taste which method is used. when birds are dressed by scalding they should be dipped several times, or until the feathers come out easily. the back should be dipped in the water first. after scalding, wipe them as dry as possible with a sponge and pick the breast feathers first. a bird when dressed for market has left on it the feathers on the wing, the tail feathers, and the feathers on head and neck, as shown in fig. 27. the legs are left on, and the birds are not drawn. the process of dry picking is considered the simpler of the two methods, and one who is accustomed to the work can readily dress 3 dozen birds in a day. the picker's outfit consists of a chair, a box for the feathers, and a couple of knives, one knife being dull and the other being sharp pointed and double edged, for bleeding. the bird is taken between the knees, the bill held open with the left hand, and a cut made across the roof of the mouth just below the eyes. the bird is then stunned by striking its head against a post or some hard substance. the picker seats himself in the chair with the bird in his lap (fig. 28), its head held firmly between one knee and the box. the feathers arc carefully sorted while picking; the pins are thrown away and the body feathers with the down are thrown into the box. care should be taken about this, as the feathers from each bird will weigh about 2 ounces, and will quite pay for the picking. [illustration: fig. 27.--pair dressed ducks (10 weeks old).] the dull knife and the thumb are used to remove the long pinfeathers, and this should be done without tearing the skin. the down can usually be rubbed off by slightly moistening the hand and holding the skin tight. often some of the pins can not be taken out without tearing and disfiguring the skin; when such is the case they should be shaved off. seven or eight minutes is all the time necessary to dress a bird. after the birds are picked they should be carefully washed, and plumped by placing in a tank or barrel of ice water. they are hardened in this ice water and given a rounded and full appearance. they are then packed in barrels or boxes and shipped to market. the first or bottom layer is packed with backs down; a layer of ice is then placed over them, and all other layers are packed with the breasts down, a layer of ice being between each layer of ducks. the top of the box or barrel is then rounded off with ice and covered with burlaps. a flour barrel will hold about three dozen birds. some raisers use boxes for shipping and have the empties returned free. development of the duckling in the egg. eggs to hatch must have good, strong germs and must be laid by healthy stock. debilitated, degenerated stock will not produce healthy and vigorous young. the health of the breeding stock must be promoted and everything done that will assist to increase the fertility of the egg. comfortable houses, cleanliness, pure water, and above all wholesome and nutritious food, are the best promoters of health. the best stock to be had is none too good, and it is erroneous to send the earliest and best stock to market for the small increase in price, and save the later and inferior stock for breeding purposes. a continuation of this practice for a few years means degenerate stock, infertile eggs, weak germs, and large mortality among the newly-hatched birds. [illustration: fig. 28.--duck picker.] after an egg has been under incubation for thirty six hours, it will, if fertile, when held to the light, show a small dark spot a trifle larger than a pin's head. this little spot is the life germ and shows the egg to be fertile. from this time the development of the germ into the duckling can be plainly seen if the egg be held to a strong light. on the sixth or seventh day the first testing of the eggs should be made and all infertile ones taken out. the germ is very distinct at this time, and there has been a gradual change going on in the interior of the egg. the little spot has been constantly enlarging and becoming more dense, and little veins are seen running in divers directions. this is the appearance of an egg with a strong, live germ, which under favorable circumstances will produce a duck. an egg that is not fertile on the sixth or seventh day will be perfectly clear and transparent; all such should be removed at once, as it is useless to allow them to remain. another kind of egg often seen is a weak or imperfectly fertilized egg, and shows an irregularly-shaped blood vessel, which had started but lacked vitality enough to continue. such an egg will not hatch and should also be removed from the nest or incubator. frequently the germ in an egg will show life when tested on the seventh day, but lacks the vitality to carry it through, and when tested later will show dark, irregular blotches over the surface of the egg. these will not hatch, and should be taken out when noticed. on the fourteenth day the little creature inside the egg begins to assume shape and show considerable life. it has increased many times in size since it was seen on the seventh day; the red veins have become more numerous and have spread over the entire surface, while the yolk is scarcely distinguishable from the other portions. the pupil of the eye has now become distinct, and the projection of the wings is clearly perceived. the absorption of the yolk has also commenced, and this will continue until the twenty-fourth day, when it will be nearly completed. the egg from this time on will rapidly grow opaque, and at the eighteenth or twentieth day is entirely so. on the twenty-fourth day the duckling is ready to make its way out of the shell, and in forty-eight hours after pipping the shell it will be entirely out. natural incubation. hatching under the sitting hen (generally used for hatching ducks) is what is termed the natural process of incubation. the hatching of eggs by this means has always been followed, and no special skill is needed for success, provided the eggs are well fertilized with healthy germs. many who raise ducks in large numbers, however, use almost exclusively artificial means; some use both the natural and the artificial, while others use the natural entirely. of the natural method we shall treat first: hens of medium size of the american class, barred plymouth rocks and wyandottes, are considered the best for sitting. nine duck eggs are about the right number to place under a hen in early spring weather, but when the season is far advanced as many as thirteen are used. the hens should be provided with large, roomy nests, and slatted fronts that can be removed and replaced easily when the hens are fed and watered. the nesting material should be of hay or straw, and the nest should be slightly concaved; in the bottom place a little finely cut hay. before the hen is put on the eggs she should be thoroughly dusted with insecticides; the nest also should have a good dusting of the same. both hen and nest should undergo a thorough dusting several times during the process of hatching as a safeguard against lice. when the ducklings are hatched they should also have their share of the insecticides before they are given to the hen. when a large number of sitting hens are used for hatching, as many as possible should be set at one time, and the ducklings raised in brooders. hatching with hens may be done on a large scale and the young brooded artificially. as many as five hundred sitting hens are used on some farms for hatching ducks. they are set in small houses or rooms with the nests around the sides in tiers, each nest having its own lattice door. each day, in the morning, the hens are taken from their nests and fed and watered on the floor of the room. they are taken down in limited numbers, sections, as it were, at a time, and after they have had the food, drink, and a little exercise they are placed back on the nests and another section is fed and watered. artificial incubation. the subject of artificial incubation has engaged the attention of the civilized world for generations past; the method has done wonders for the poultry industry and has opened up the pathways to fortunes that might otherwise never have been made. the science of incubation and brooding has been developed wonderfully in this country during the last quarter of a century, and what seemed almost an impossibility then has indeed become a certainty now. there are many thousands of chicks and ducklings hatched by artificial means each year, and the numbers of good machines now being manufactured in this country at low prices make poultry raising a business that almost anyone with a limited capital may profitably engage in. the mission of an incubator is to supplant the sitting hen, and make it possible to hatch a large number of chicks at a minimum amount of cost and labor. that this can be done is proved each day. for artificial incubation, have a room with a temperature as nearly uniform as possible. balance the beat in the machines, or in other words, see that the heat is uniform at both ends, and, in fact, all over them. see that each is running steadily before placing the eggs in it, as there is a great deal in starting right. the machines should be run at a temperature of 102â° for the first three weeks, and 103â° the last week. the eggs should be turned twice each day at regular periods. introduce a pan of water from the fifteenth to the twenty-second day, no matter what the location of the machine, whether in a damp cellar or in a dry room overhead, in a moist atmosphere near the seashore or in a dry one at an altitude in the country. the temperature may go as high as 101â° just previous to and while hatching without injury. place the glass on a live egg after the animal heat rises, which will be when the circulation begins. this will be perceptible in good eggs the fourteenth and fifteenth days. considerable weight has been put upon the ventilation question in incubators by manufacturers and operators, but it has been found that when the egg chamber is roomy, and the eggs are taken out and cooled twice each day, it is not of so much consequence. there is no doubt but that there must be some ventilation in the egg chamber, but from the experience and observation of the writer the value of the subject has been overestimated by many. some machines have top ventilation, some bottom, and others both top and bottom, and there is seemingly no marked difference in the hatching. when the ducklings are hatching, the broken egg shells should be removed once in every six or eight hours, so that they will not slip over the pipped eggs, as it would be sure death to the imprisoned ones. occasionally a little bird is unable to free itself from the shell and needs help; the expert can readily detect when this is necessary. the one point to note in this connection is this: the egg just before hatching radiates a great deal of heat, while the duckling, when first out, being not unlike a little sponge, absorbs it, or in other words, the rapid evaporation which takes place generates cold; so that when the ducklings are out the machine should be gauged one degree higher. when the ducklings are all out and dried off, the machine will run at least two degrees lower than when they were in the egg. plenty of ventilation is needed in the machines while hatching. keep the ducklings in the machine at least twenty-four hours after hatching, when they will be strong enough to be removed to the brooder. the heat in the brooder should be started twenty-four hours previous to use, so that it will be perfectly heated and ready for the ducklings when they are taken from the machine. geese. standard breeds of geese. =introduction.=--there are seven standard breeds of geese, as follows: gray toulouse, white embden, gray african, brown chinese, white chinese, gray wild, and colored egyptian. gray toulouse geese. =history.=--gray toulouse geese (fig. 29) are named for the city in france of that name, where they are extensively bred. in this country they are bred in large numbers by farmers and are fairly well thought of for market purposes. their flesh is a trifle too coarse and flabby, when compared with some other geese, to be prized very highly for table purposes. they are termed a christmas goose, as being later in maturing than the others they are just about right at the holiday time. they are fairly good layers, averaging about 40 eggs in a season. [illustration: fig. 29.--pair of gray toulouse geese.] =description.=--toulouse geese are more compact in shape than other geese, and are preferred by many for this reason. the head is rather large and short, and they have a comparatively short bill that is stout at the base; the neck is carried well up and is of medium length. they have a broad back of moderate length, which curves slightly from the neck to the tail; their breasts are broad and deep. the body of the toulouse goose is moderate in length, broad, and very deep and compact, the more compact the better; and in birds in good condition the belly almost touches the ground. their wings are large, strong, and fold nicely against the sides, and they have comparatively short tails, and stout thighs and shanks. in color of plumage they are a dull gray, without penciling. the head is dark gray and the neck of the same color, which shades to a lighter gray as it approaches the back; the back is of dark gray, while the breast is light gray. the body plumage is light gray, which grows lighter and becomes white on the belly; the white extends back .to and around the tail, covering the fluffy parts. the primaries of the wings are dark gray or brown; the secondaries are a shade darker than the primaries and the coverts are dark gray. the tail feathers are gray and white, the ends tipped with white. their eyes are dark brown or hazel in color; their bills, shanks, toes, and webs are of deep reddish-orange color. =weight.=--the standard weight of the adult gander is 20 pounds; adult goose, 20 pounds; young gander, 18 pounds, and young goose, 15 pounds. white embden geese. =history.=--white embden geese (fig. 30) are considered very practical birds for farmers, and pay well for their keeping. they are nice looking, of large size, tall and erect carriage,, and snow-white plumage. they originally came from embden, in westphalia, and have been bred in this country for many years. =description.=--the embdens are not so prolific as the brown chinese or toulouse, 20 eggs in a season being a good average for them. their eggs are very large, white, and have a very thick, rough shell. in carriage they are very tall and erect, and have fine square bodies. they have rather large heads, medium-sized bill, and a long neck that is carried upright. their backs are of medium length, and arch slightly from the neck to the tail; the breast is round and full, and the body is large, square, and very deep, and, like the toulouse, almost touches the ground the wings are large and strong; tail short; thighs and shanks short and stout. their eyes are bright blue; bills flesh color; and their shanks, toes, and webs are deep orange. =weight.=--the standard weight of the adult gander is 20 pounds; adult goose, 18 pounds; young gander, 18 pounds, and young goose 10 pounds. gray african geese. =history.=--gray african geese (fig. 31) are by many raisers considered the most profitable of all geese to keep. they grow the heaviest in the shortest space of time, and are ready for market in ten weeks, weighing at that age between 8 and 10 pounds. they are very much like the pekin duck in this respect, and as compared with other geese give the most satisfactory returns for the least labor and time spent in growing them. they are, according to standard weights, as heavy as the toulouse and embden, but specimens are not uncommon that exceed these weights by several pounds. they are first-class layers and average about 40 eggs in a season. this is considered as a low estimate for their egg production. for table purposes they are esteemed very highly, their flesh being fine and nicely flavored. [illustration: fig. 30.--pair of white embden geese.] =description.=--these geese have a large head, with a large knob, and a heavy dewlap under the throat. these and the chinese geese are different from the others in the head, and are the only two breeds that have the knob on the head. the bill of the african is rather large and stout at the base, and their necks are long. their backs are long and flat, breasts round and moderately full, and they have large, long, and upright bodies. the wings are large and strong, and are folded well against the body; the thighs are short and stout, and shanks of medium length. the knob is black and the dewlap of a gray color, while the plumage of the neck is light gray with a dark stripe running from the head to the body. the back is dark gray, the plumage of the breast is gray, and the underpart of body is light gray. the wings and tail are dark gray, and the thighs are light gray. the eyes are hazel or brown; bill, black; shanks, toes, and web are of dark-orange color. =weight.=--the standard weight of the adult gander is 20 pounds; adult goose, 18 pounds; young gander, 10 pounds, and young goose, 14 pounds. [illustration: fig. 31.--pair of gray african geese.] brown and white chinese geese. =history.=--the smallest of the breeds of geese are the chinese, averaging in weight from 6 to 7 pounds lighter than those previously named. apparently their want of size has prevented them from becoming favorites with those who raise large numbers annually, but with those who keep a limited number they are found to be very practical. what they lack in size they gain in egg production, being the most prolific of all breeds of geese, averaging from 50 to 60 eggs a year. in size, aptitude to fatten, and ease of management they appear in no respect inferior to other geese, while the quality of flesh is decidedly superior. =description.=--they are exceedingly graceful in appearance, quite hardy, and the young mature early. there are two varieties of chinese geese--the brown (fig. 32) and the white. they have large heads, with large knob at base of a medium-length bill, and long, gracefully arched necks. the backs are medium in length, and the breast is round and full; body of medium size, round and plump; wings, large and strong; thighs, short and stout, and shanks of medium length. [illustration: fig. 32.--pair of brown chinese geese (young).] the color of head of the brown chinese geese is brown; knob dark brown or black; neck light brown or grayish brown, with a dark stripe from the head down to the body. the body is dark brown, breast grayish brown, and the under parts are a shade lighter in color. the wings and tail are brown, and the thighs are grayish brown. the eyes are hazel or brown; bill dark brown or black; and shanks, toes, and webs are a dusky orange color. the color of plumage of the white chinese geese is pure white throughout, perfectly free from feathers of any other color. the knob and bill are orange color, as are also the shanks, toes, and web. the eyes are a deep leaden blue. =weight.=--the standard weight of the adult gander is 14 pounds; adult goose, 12 pounds; young gander, 10 pounds, and young goose, 8 pounds. gray wild geese. =history.=--gray wild geese (fig. 33) are among the best known of domestic geese, and are very generally bred throughout the entire country. they are among the most valuable and practical birds for goose raising, and are prized very highly for table purposes, besides being good layers, hardy, and easy to rear. [illustration: fig. 33.--gray wild goose.] =description.=--these geese have a rather small head, small bill, sharp at the point, and long, slender neck, snaky in appearance. the back is long and rather narrow, and is arched from neck to tail; breast, full and deep, and body long and somewhat slender. the wings are long, large, and powerful, and the thighs are rather short. the head of the wild goose is black, with a white stripe nearly covering the side of the face; bill, black; neck, black; and back, dark gray. the breast is light gray, which grows darker as it approaches the legs; the plumage of the underparts of the body from the legs to the tail is white. the wings are dark gray; primaries dusky black, showing only a dark-gray color when the wing is folded; secondaries are brown, but of a lighter shade than the primaries. the tail feathers are glossy black, and the thighs are gray. the shanks, toes, and webs are black. the eyes are black. =weight.=--the standard weight of the adult gander is 16 pounds; adult goose, 14 pounds; young gander, 12 pounds, and young goose, 10 pounds. colored egyptian geese. =history.=--the most beautiful of the breeds of geese are the colored egyptians (fig. 34); they are purely ornamental, not having been bred in this country for any other purpose than the showroom. they are sometimes called the nile goose. this goose is tall and somewhat slender, which gives it an elegance of appearance not possessed by any other breed. it can generally be bred in confinement, but is of a most quarrelsome nature, and the male will fight to the death other males of the same species. the males must each be given a separate pen, and mated with the females; it is seldom that any two males can be kept in the same pen. =description.=--these geese have a medium-sized and rather long head, a bill of medium length, and a rather small neck. the back is narrow and slightly arched from the neck to the tail; breast, round; body, long, but somewhat small and slender. their wings are large, and have instead of the ordinary hard knobs horny spurs about five-eighths of an inch long; the thighs are of medium length, and the shanks rather long. the color of the head is black and gray; the bill is purple or bluish red, and the eyes orange. [illustration: fig. 34.--pair of colored egyptian geese.] the neck and back are gray and black; the center of the breast is chestnut, and the balance is gray. the upper parts of the plumage of the body are gray and black, and the under parts are a pale yellow, penciled with black. the shoulders of the wings are white, with a narrow black stripe or bar. the tail feathers are glossy black; thighs, pale buff; shanks, toes, and webs, reddish yellow. the eyes are orange. =weight.=--the standard weight of the adult gander is 15 pounds; adult goose, 12 pounds; young gander, 12 pounds, and young goose, 9 pounds. management of geese. goose raising is not so extensively engaged in as duck raising, the conditions under which they can be successfully raised being almost entirely different from those necessary for successful duck raising. the duck, being smaller, can be raised in a more limited space than can the goose, the latter needing free range and water, while the former has been proved to do equally as well without water. while the goose can not profitably be raised in as large numbers as the duck, still it can not justly be termed unprofitable. there are many places on a farm that are worthless for cultivation that could be utilized with excellent results for goose raising. fields that have streams, branches, or unused springs on them could be turned to good advantage by making them into goose pastures. many farmers are profiting by this and adding to their incomes annually. the care and attention necessary for raising geese are very small when compared with the returns, and the cost of food is also proportionately small in comparison with the cost of food used for other birds bred for market. a goose on range will gather the largest portion of its food, consisting of grasses, insects, and other animal and vegetable matter to be found in the fields and brooks. the simplest kinds of houses are used for shelter; these should be built after the plans of those given for ducks, but should be proportionately of larger size to accommodate comfortably the number of birds to be kept. geese are long-lived birds, some having been known to attain the age of 40 years, while birds of 15 and 20 years of age are not uncommon. they retain their laying and hatching qualities through life. ganders should not be kept for breeding after 3 years of age; young ganders are more active and insure greater fertility of the eggs than old ones do; besides, ganders become more quarrelsome as age advances. the feathers of geese are an important source of revenue and find a ready sale in the markets. a goose will average about 1 pound of feathers a year. the feathers should be plucked when there is no blood in the ends of the quills; this can be readily ascertained, as they will then leave the flesh without hard pulling. almost all breeds of geese are good sitters and attentive mothers, and if left to themselves will make their nests, much as when wild, and hatch a large percentage of their eggs. but hens are now more frequently used for hatching goose eggs; as by taking the eggs from the goose when laid and giving them to hens to hatch, the goose will lay a greater number of eggs than if she were permitted to sit. all breeds of geese, except perhaps the egyptian, are to be recommended to farmers who keep a limited number in addition to other poultry and allow them the freedom of the farm, but when goose raising is to be more extensively engaged in, the african goose is to be especially commended. it is the quickest to mature, most prolific, and the easiest to handle of any of the varieties. mating and setting. in breeding african geese, mate two geese to one gander, and it will be still better if pairs are used to secure better fertility of the eggs. those who contemplate raising geese should secure their stock in the fall, so that the birds may become accustomed to the place before the breeding season begins. the breeding stock should be at least 2 years old, and fully matured birds. when stock is purchased in the fall they should be turned out in a pasture, and no other food than what they gather themselves will be needed until the grass goes down. their rations should then consist of equal parts by measure, bran, middlings, and corn meal, with 5 per cent of this bulk of beef scraps. they should be given a light feed of this ration in the morning, and at night they should be fed cracked corn. ten per cent of the bulk of the daily ration should be green foods, steamed clover, and cooked vegetables. [illustration: fig. 35.--wild and african cross.] [illustration: fig. 36.--embden and toulouse cross.] the breeding season begins about february 1, though some geese will begin laying as early as december, then stop, and begin again the first of february. they make their own nests from the straw and litter on the floor of their houses, and will lay from 12 to 20 eggs before becoming broody. as soon as the goose shows an inclination to sit, remove her and place her in a dark box or small coop, and keep her there for two or three days with water for drink, but no food. then she may be placed back in the yards and she will begin another laying of eggs. the first and second layings of eggs should be set under hens. after the goose lays the second laying she should be confined again, when she will lay a third laying. when she has laid the third laying she should be permitted to sit on them, instead of giving them to hens. a goose will lay from 10 to 15 eggs in each of the second and third layings. it is recommended that after the eggs have been sat upon for twenty-five days, that they be taken from the nest and placed for about one minute in water heated to a temperature of 104â°. thirty days are required for incubation. after the eggs have hatched leave the hen and goslings in the nest for twenty-four hours; after the young have become thoroughly dry remove hen and brood and pen them in a large, roomy coop for four or five days. when the goslings have reached this age--four or five days--they are perfectly able to take care of themselves. the hen should then be taken from the goslings, which should be allowed freedom to roam at will, but they should always be cooped up at night. feeding and dressing for market. [illustration: fig. 37.--embden and african cross.] the first feed for goslings is grass, fed on sod; a small allowance of corn meal, slightly moistened, is also given them. sand and charcoal are sometimes mixed with the corn meal. they are fed on the above food three times a day for a couple of days, when they are given a ration composed of equal parts by measure, bran, middlings, and steamed cut clover or cooked vegetables. this feed is given them morning, noon, and night, until they are 8 weeks old, when they are penned to be fattened for market at 10 weeks old. to fatten young geese, place them in a pen, not too large, so that they will not exercise too much, and feed three times a day all they will eat up clean of the following: corn meal mixed to a dry crumbly state, and beef scraps amounting to 20 per cent of the bulk of the corn meal. while fattening young geese they should be kept as quiet as possible; no excitement whatever should disturb them. when feeding approach them quietly, and do not irritate them in the least or they will not fatten, but will "throw out" or grow another crop of feathers. at 10 weeks of age, or when the tips of the wings reach the tail, they are ready for market and should weigh between 8 and 10 pounds. when young goslings are to be dressed for market they are killed by cutting them in the roof of the mouth, severing the artery, or by stunning them by hitting them a sharp, quick blow on the head. the picker uses a box in front of him about the height of the knees, holding the bird with the left hand and clasping the feet and wings together; he places the head of the bird against the box and holds it in place with the knee. pick the feathers from the body of the bird, then dampen the right hand and brush the body to remove the down. leave about 2 inches of feathers on the neck, and also leave feathers on the wings at the first joint. lay the wings against the body of the birds and tie a string around to hold in position. i lace the birds, when picked, in cold water for an hour or so to plump them; if they are in the water too long they are liable to bleach and become water-soaked. they are then iced up in barrels already to ship to market. young geese should be marketed in october. it is best to market all possible before cold weather sets in. it is much harder to dress a gosling in cold weather. the feathers set tighter, and in picking them the flesh is torn. cross breeding. the most satisfactory results are to be had by breeding pure standard-bred stock without crossing. but to those who are partial to crosses the following are considered the best to make: (1) wild gander on african goose (fig. 35); (2) embden gander on toulouse goose (fig. 36); (3) embden gander on african goose (fig. 37), and (4) embden gander on white china goose. these crosses will give good growth and the young birds will dress well for market. crosses should only be made for market purposes, and should always be bred from original stock. * * * * * farmers' bulletins. these bulletins are sent free of charge to any address upon application to the secretary of agriculture, washington, d. c. only the following are available: no. 15.--some destructive potato diseases: what they are and how to prevent them. no. 16.--leguminous plants for green manuring and for feeding. no. 18.--forage plants for the south. no. 19.--important insecticides: directions for their preparation and use. no. 21.--barnyard manure. no. 22.--feeding farm animals. no. 23.--foods: nutritive value and cost. no. 24.--hog cholera and swine plague. no. 25.--peanuts: culture and uses. no. 26.--sweet potatoes: culture and uses. no. 27.--flax for seed and fiber. no. 28.--weeds; and how to kill them. no. 29.--souring of milk and other changes in milk products. no. 30.--grape diseases on the pacific coast. no. 31.--alfalfa, or lucern. no. 32.--silos and silage. no. 33.--peach growing for market. no. 34.--meats: composition and cooking. no. 35.--potato culture. no. 36.--cotton seed and its products. no. 37.--kafir corn: characteristics, culture, and uses. no. 38.--spraying for fruit diseases. no. 39.--onion culture. no. 40.--farm drainage. no. 41.--fowls: care and feeding. no. 42.--facts about milk. no. 43.--sewage disposal on the farm. no. 44.--commercial fertilizers. no. 45.--some insects injurious to stored grain. no. 46.--irrigation in humid climates. no. 47.--insects affecting the cotton plant. no. 48.--the manuring of cotton. no. 49.--sheep feeding. no. 50.--sorghum as a forage crop. no. 51.--standard varieties of chickens. no. 52.--the sugar beet. no. 53.--how to grow mushrooms. no. 54.--some common birds in their relation to agriculture. no. 55.--the dairy herd: its formation and management. no. 56.--experiment station work--i. no. 57.--butter making on the farm. no. 58.--the soy bean as a forage crop. no. 59.--bee keeping. no. 60.--methods of curing tobacco. no. 61.--asparagus culture. no. 62.--marketing farm produce. no. 63.--care of milk on the farm. no. 64.--ducks and geese. no. 65.--experiment station work--ii. no. 66.--meadows and pastures. no. 67.--forestry for farmers. no. 68.--the black rot of the cabbage. no. 69.--experiment station work--iii. no. 70.--the principal insect enemies of the grape. no. 71.--some essentials of beef production. no. 72.--cattle ranges of the southwest. no. 73.--experiment station work--iv. no. 74.--milk as food. no. 75.--the grain smuts. no. 76.--tomato growing. no. 77.--the liming of soils. no. 78.--experiment station work--v. no. 79.--experiment station work--vi. no. 80.--the peach twig-borer--an important enemy of stone fruits. no. 81.--corn culture in the south. no. 82.--the culture of tobacco. no. 83.--tobacco soils. no. 84.--experiment station work--vii. no. 85.--fish as food. no. 86.--thirty poisonous plants. no. 87.--experiment station work--viii. no. 88.--alkali lands. no. 89.--cowpeas. * * * * * transcriber note minor typos may have been corrected. illustrations were repositioned to avoid splitting paragraphs. david garcia. note: project gutenberg also has an html version of this file which includes the original lovely illustrations. see 15280-h.htm or 15280-h.zip: (http://www.gutenberg.net/dirs/1/5/2/8/15280/15280-h/15280-h.htm) or (http://www.gutenberg.net/dirs/1/5/2/8/15280/15280-h.zip) bedtime stories lulu, alice and jimmie wibblewobble by howard r. garis author of _sammie and susie littletail_, _johnnie and billie bushytail_, _those smith boys_, _dick hamilton's fortune_, etc. illustrations by louis wisa 1912 * * * * * r.f. fenno & company 18 east seventeenth st. new york children's books by howard r. garis the bedtime stories series eight colored illustrations price 75 cents each, postpaid sammie and susie littletail 31 rabbit stories johnnie and billie bushytail 31 squirrel stories lulu, alice and jimmie wibblewobble 31 duck stories jackie and peetie bow-wow 31 dog stories other volumes in preparation * * * * * the uncle wiggily series eight colored illustrations price 75 cents each, postpaid uncle wiggily's adventures 31 of the old gentleman rabbit stories uncle wiggily's travels 31 more old gentleman rabbit stories boy's books those smith boys series four illustrations price 75 cents each, postpaid the smith boys or, the mystery of the thumbless man those smith boys on the diamond or, nip and tuck for victory the island boys series four illustrations price 75 cents each, postpaid the island boys or, fun and adventures on lake modoc other volumes in preparation * * * * * r.f. fenno & company bedtime stories--lulu, alice and jimmie the stories herein contained appeared originally in the evening news, of newark, n.j., where (so many children and their parents have been kind enough to say) they gave pleasure to a number of little folks, and grown-ups also. permission to issue the stories in book form was kindly granted by the publisher and editor of the news, to whom the author extends his thanks. [illustration] lulu, alice and jimmie wibblewobble story i lulu wibblewobble stuck in the mud once upon a time, not so very many years ago, there lived three ducks in a duck pen. and this pen was not far from where sammie and susie littletail, the rabbit children, had their burrow, and it was close to the trees where johnnie and billie bushytail, the squirrel brothers, learned to jump from their nest. now i am going to tell you some stories about these ducks, and what they did. to begin with there was the mamma duck. she was mrs. wibblewobble, a nice, white duck, being a cousin to mrs. quack-quack, who once rescued billie and johnnie bushytail, and jennie chipmunk from the desert island where they had been shipwrecked, you remember. then there was the papa duck, and, of course, his name was mr. wibblewobble. also there were the children ducks; jimmie wibblewobble and his two sisters, lulu and alice. lulu was a duckling who could throw a stone almost as well as could jimmie, but alice was not so fond of doing this. she would rather dress up, and play keep house, while lulu wanted to be off having a good time with her brother. but the three ducklings got along very nicely together just the same. what's that? why were they named wibblewobble? well, because, you see they did wibblewobble from side to side when they walked, and so they had to be named wibblewobble, or things wouldn't have come out right. so there! well, the wibblewobble family lived in a nice, wooden house, called a pen, near a pond of water, and their house had a door and two windows to it, so you see they were quite well off. in fact they were very stylish ducks, and once jimmie wibblewobble even rode in an automobile, but i can't tell you about that now, because you see i am going to relate to you how lulu was caught fast in the mud. it happened one day when jimmie and his two sisters were swimming about on the pond, just like three white boats. "let's see who can swim the fastest!" suddenly called the little boy duck. "we'll race over to the other side of the pond," and he put his head down under the water to get a fine, juicy bit of weed, with some water-cress sauce on it. "oh, no," exclaimed alice wibblewobble, "it's not nice for girl ducks to race," and she spread out her wings to see how they looked. "yes it is," said lulu. "come on, jimmie, i'll race with you." so off they started, splashing the water with their yellow, webbed feet, throwing up a little spray, which sparkled in the sunshine, just like baby's eyes when you come close to her and she laughs at you so cunningly. on they went, faster and faster and faster, lulu and jimmie, while alice remained behind, to gaze in the water which was just like a looking glass, you know. oh, my yes, but please don't try it, unless the water is very, very shallow. you see alice wanted to see if all her feathers were on straight, and they were, believe me, as straight as straight can be. well, of course, jimmie won the race, being a very good swimmer, but lulu was close behind him, and would have beaten, only one of her legs got caught in a weed. now i call that too bad, don't you? for i was hoping, all the while, that lulu would win. but you never can tell what is going to happen in this world; now can you? no, indeed. "let's race back again," proposed lulu, after she had rested. "oh, don't race any more," spoke alice, swimming up just then. "let's walk out on land and see if we can't find some nice corn meal. i'm sure it must be almost dinner time, and i just love corn meal." "i know something better than that," suddenly said a quivery-quavery voice, right beside the ducks, and when they looked around who should be there but mr. goosey-gander, the grandfather of all the ducks in the pen. "i know something better than corn meal, little ones," he said, and he splashed his wings in the water. "what is it?" asked lulu, as quickly as you can shoot a marble into the ring and out again. "is it gum drops?" "no," answered grandfather goosey-gander, "it is not gum drops. it is better than that. it is nice, sweet roots and grasses that grow down under water," and, with that, what do you think he did? why, he stood right up on his head, and reached his bill down beneath the pond, and got some of the nicest grass that ever was. "there," said the old gentleman duck, poking up his head, "do as i did, little ones." so those three wibblewobble children did, and pretty soon, alice and jimmie had as much as they could eat, and raised their heads. then they saw that lulu still had her bill down under the water. "she must be getting lots more than we did," spoke alice. "yes, indeed," replied jimmie. "i wonder how she can hold her breath so long?" just then, what should happen but that lulu began to wave her feet in the air, and she flapped her wings until the spray went up in a regular shower, just like at asbury park. "oh, my goodness me sakes alive, and three teaspoonsfull of corn meal with pepper in!" cried grandfather goosey-gander. "lulu is stuck in the mud! we must pull her out. quick!" that's just the way he said it. and, would you believe me, lulu was held fast in the mud by her dear little bill! oh, how terribly frightened jimmie and alice were. they squawked and they quacked, and they tried to pull lulu out, but she was stuck too fast. then all the other ducks came swimming up to see what the trouble was, and they tried to pull her out, but they couldn't, and, all the while her feet were wiggling as fast as they could wiggle, almost like sammie littletail's nose. then grandfather goosey-gander called out: "what ho! make way there! i will save her!" and with that, what do you think he did? why, he dived right down under the water, yes, sir, right down in the mud, and he pushed, and he pulled, and he hauled and he splashed, and he yanked, and he rooted, and he twisted, and he turned, and he shoved, and then, all alone, brave old grandfather that he was, he got lulu up from the mud, where she had been stuck by her little bill! and it was almost time, too, let me tell you, for her breath was nearly gone. but she soon got better, and she never put her head so far down under water again. then all the ducks said: "quack, quack, quack!" three times, they were so glad, and they swam around in a circle, and the old rooster stood on the bank and crowed, just as if he had done it all! oh, how glad papa and mamma wibblewobble were that lulu was saved! now, if you do not get your feet wet, i shall tell you, to-morrow night, how jimmie rode in an automobile. story ii jimmie wibblewobble in an auto one day, well, it must have been about a week after lulu wibblewobble got caught in the mud, she and jimmie were out swimming around the pond. "come on," said lulu, "let's go over and see mrs. greenie, the frog. she always has some candied sweet-flag root hidden away, and perhaps she will give us some." "i don't believe there's any left," spoke jimmie, "for bully, the boy frog, is so fond of it that he eats all he can get." "well, we'll go, anyhow," went on lulu. just then she heard her mother calling: "jimmie! lulu! where are you going?" "we are going over to see mrs. greenie," replied jimmie. "wait for alice," called mamma wibblewobble. "she will go with you. she is just putting a clean apron on." "oh, dear!" cried lulu. "why does alice always make us wait while she puts on something clean?" "i suppose," answered jimmie, and he scratched his bill with his left leg, "i suppose it is because she wants to look nice." "yes," agreed lulu, with a sort of quacking-sigh, "i suppose i ought to want to look nice, too; but, somehow i don't--ever. i always seem to be in such a hurry." "maybe you'll change, some day," suggested her brother. "maybe," spoke lulu, and just then alice came swimming along, looking just as nice and pretty as do some ducks which are in a picture. they all went over to see mrs. greenie, the old lady frog, who lived down on the bottom of the pond, at the far edge, by a big willow tree. and, honestly, though i don't like to mention it, for fear you'll think bully a greedy little boy, there wasn't a single bit of candied sweet-flag root in the house. no, sir, not a tiny, weeny bit. so mrs. greenie gave the wibblewobble children some nice snails, which they liked very much, and then they went on swimming around. jimmie was looking for bully, but the little boy frog had hopped off to see his cousin. now, in a few minutes jimmie is going to have an adventure, and, if you please, i want you to listen very carefully, so as not to miss it. well, the three ducklings swam on, thinking how nice it was on the water, with the warm sun on their backs, when they suddenly came to the end of the pond. and who should be standing there but the man who owned the little puddle. and, more than that, there was another man also standing there in the road and beside him was a queer thing, with big fat wheels, fatter than the fattest duck or goose you ever saw. it was puffing away, and some smoke and a funny smell came from it. of course, you've guessed it! an automobile! now, what do you think about that? the ducks listened to what the men were saying, for, though the wibblewobbles couldn't talk as the men did, they could understand our language. "it's too bad," said the man who owned the pond. "can't you go any farther?" "no," said the man who had the automobile, "i can't. you see my horn, that i blow to tell people to get out of the way, is broken. i can't sound any warning, and if i ran my machine i might hurt some one; and i wouldn't do that for the world; no, not for two worlds, if you were to offer them to me." "that is very kind of you; very kind, indeed, i'm sure," went on the man who owned the pond. "i am glad to have met you; and i wish i could help you." "i'm afraid you can't," answered the other. "i have to walk way down to newark, to get a new horn for my auto, so i can blow it, to warn people out of the way." so he started to walk off, and then what do you think happened? why, jimmie wibblewobble got so excited that he gave a loud "quack-quack!" oh, so loud and clear! as soon as the man who owned the auto heard it he cried out, "my gracious goodness! what's that?" "that," replied the man who owned the pond, "is one of my ducks. doesn't he speak very loudly?" then jimmie, just to show what he could do, quacked again, harder than before. "oh, extemporaneousness!" cried the auto man. "that is very fine quacking, indeed. i never heard better. i have the greatest idea," he added. "would you be so kind as to lend me that little duck? i will bring him safely back to you and not harm him in the least." "what will you do with him?" asked the man who owned the pond. "i will take him on the seat beside me," replied the other, "and maybe he will go 'quack-quack' whenever a person gets in the way of my auto. then they will not be run over. why, this little duck will be as good as an auto horn! will you let me take him?" "i guess so," answered the other man. "but please do not frighten him, as he is very little." the man who owned the auto said he would be careful, and he went over to where jimmie was, and picked him right up. now i should have thought that jimmie would have been frightened, but he wasn't a bit, no, would you believe me, not a bit. so the man took him and put him on the seat and started off in the auto. jimmie knew exactly what to do. every time he came to a crossing he "quack-quacked" as loudly as he could, without being told, and he did the same thing whenever he saw a person in the way of the big machine. oh, what a fine ride he had in the auto, and how proud he was! not too proud, you know, but just proud enough. well, as true as i'm telling you, if jimmie wasn't as good an auto horn as one could wish. not a single accident happened when he was on the seat, "quack-quacking" away, and when the man went to a store and got his regular horn, with the rubber handle to it, why, he brought jimmie right back to the pond. now, wasn't that quite an adventure? all the other ducks thought so anyhow. to-morrow night, if you do not slam the door, you shall hear about alice wibblewobble's new bonnet. story iii alice wibblewobble's new bonnet when the wibblewobble family came back to their house after a swim around the pond one bright sunny afternoon, and when the grass on the edges of the water was as green as it could be, mamma wibblewobble looked at her children, who were walking ahead of her. jimmie and lulu were throwing stones along the path, but alice, who was as ladylike a little duck as one could wish, would not throw pebbles even, to say nothing of stones. "i declare," exclaimed mamma wibblewobble, "those girls will have to have new bonnets. i must see to it at once." "very well," answered papa wibblewobble, "i will get them when i come home to-morrow. i met mrs. gooseyoosy this morning and she said they had a special sale of hats at the store by the barnyard gate." "a man duck cannot get bonnets for alice and lulu," declared mrs. wibblewobble. "you would not know what to pick out! it is bad enough to have you get jimmie's hats and shoes, but you would never know how to buy bonnets for the girls." "very well," answered papa wibblewobble, "then i will let you do the buying. i think a green colored bonnet would be nice for alice." "green! with her complexion!" cried his wife. "never! it must be blue--blue for alice and a brown one for lulu. give me the money and i will start out shopping to-morrow." so mamma wibblewobble started out the next day, taking alice and lulu with her, while jimmie stayed home and played cross-tag with bully, the frog, and nurse jane fuzzy-wuzzy, who had a day's vacation. they had lots of fun, and once jimmie nearly fell down a great big--but there, i started to tell you about alice wibblewobble's bonnet, and i must not get off the track. that story about jimmie will do for another time. well, you should have seen the numbers and numbers of duck-bonnets that mrs. wibblewobble looked at before she was satisfied with two for the girls. not that alice and lulu were hard to please. oh, my, no! but their mamma wanted them to look just right, and you know it is quite difficult to fit a bonnet on a duck and make it look like anything. the milliner said so herself, and she ought to know. but at last the two duck girls both had very fine bonnets indeed; as fine as mustard seeds, which are very, very fine. alice had a nice blue one, and lulu a brown one. well, would you ever imagine it? something is going to happen to alice's bonnet, and very soon, too. just be patient and you shall hear. "now children," said mrs. wibblewobble, when they had reached the pen where they lived, "you may go out and swim around a bit with your new bonnets on until your papa comes home. i want him to see how well they fit you, for i think i have very good taste when it comes to bonnets." "oh, i don't want to wear my new one," spoke lulu. "i will put on my old one and go and play with jimmie and bully, the frog." so she did, but alice, who was very fond of nice clothes, went for a swim on the pond. at first she paddled around, gazing down in the water, which was just like the looking-glass some men shave by, and she thought: "oh, what a lovely bonnet i have! how fine i shall look when i go for a walk on sunday!" and just then--really i'm not exaggerating a bit--if it didn't begin to rain! now, of course, rain couldn't hurt alice any, for she was a duck and was used to the water, but she knew it would spoil her new bonnet. so she took it off and laid it under a big burdock plant leaf near the pond, to keep the flowers and ribbons dry. "i wish it would stop raining," said alice, after a while. "i want to go home," but the big drops kept on falling, and she had to remain near her bonnet for fear something would happen to it. then, in a little while, oh, maybe half an hour or so, all at once as quick as a wink, along came mooleyooly, the big brown cow. mooleyooly walked up to the burdock leaf, under which was the new bonnet, and mooleyooly saw the pretty yellow flowers on it, and she saw the blue flowers on it and she saw the red flowers on it. then mooleyooly said, as she licked her lips with her red tongue: "what have we here? it looks very nice." "it is nice," answered alice proudly, for she was glad to have some one, even a cow, admire her bonnet. "it looks just like the green meadow where i live," went on mooleyooly, "with buttercups, and daisies, and ragged sailor flowers and some red poppies growing in it. oh, very fine, indeed. why, those flowers are real!" exclaimed the cow, looking carefully at the new bonnet under the big leaf. "of course," cried alice, "certainly they are real." "better and better!" went on mooleyooly. "most delightful, i am sure!" then, oh, how sorry i feel that i have to tell it--then, if that brown cow didn't start right in and eat up alice's new bonnet! yes, sir, every single bit, down to a bunch of green grass that looked so pretty on it. she ate it all up at one mouthful, before alice could cry out "stop" or "halt" or "cease" or any words like that. well, of course, alice cried. wouldn't you, boys and girls--i mean, of course, you girls--have done the same? well, i guess so! then, when the cow saw how sorry alice felt, mooleyooly felt badly, too, and she cried great big tears until you would have thought it was raining harder then ever. then, being a good cow, mooleyooly promised to get alice a new bonnet, which she did, made of the finest straw in the stable. so alice had a hat for sunday after all, even if one was eaten up by mistake. well, pretty soon it stopped raining and alice went home with the bonnet the cow gave her, and mamma wibblewobble said it was even better than the one she had bought. now, wasn't that rather odd? i thought so, myself. to-morrow night if you do not sneeze, i hope to have the pleasure of telling you how jimmie wibblewobble almost fell over the waterfall; but don't let that alarm you the least bit, for he was saved in a most wonderful way. story iv jimmie and the waterfall it was such a nice day that mr. and mrs. wibblewobble decided to go visiting, as they had an invitation to call on mrs. greenie, the frog lady who lived at the end of the pond. so the two ducks, after seeing that the pen was in order, and the windows nice and clean, in case any company should call on them while they were out, started off, swimming very slowly, for they had their best clothes on and did not want to splash water on them. "now, i hope you children will be good," called mamma wibblewobble to jimmie and lulu and alice. "don't get into any mischief and we'll be back at supper time." "we'll be good," promised alice, but jimmie and lulu didn't say anything, though, of course they meant to be good also. only, sometimes, you know how it is, just when you want to be good and make no trouble something is sure to happen; that is, most always. well, that's the way it was this time. the papa and mamma ducks hadn't been gone more than half an hour before jimmie thought of something to do. of course, he didn't know it was mischief but it was, all the same. it happened that at one end of the pond where the ducks lived there was a waterfall. that is, the water ran from the pond, and fell over a high wall of stones upon some more stones down below, and made a lot of foam and a rushing, gurgling noise that was very cool in summer, making you think of ice cream and all nice things like that. and besides this there was, near the waterfall, a big mill, with a wheel that went around and around, to grind the corn and grain. well, jimmie's papa and mamma hadn't been gone more than half an hour before the little boy duck called to lulu and alice. "let's see how near we can go to the waterfall," he said. now this was a very dangerous thing to do, because there was a strong and swift current at the fall, and any one who went too near it might be carried over. mr. and mrs. wibblewobble knew this, and many times had told their children to keep away. but, you see, jimmie forgot, or else didn't want to remember, so he called to his sisters, telling them to see how near they could go. "i'll not," spoke alice. "and you hadn't better either, jimmie. you know what mamma said." "oh, well, the water's low now," replied jimmie. "i don't believe there's any danger. come on, lulu." "all right," said lulu. so she and jimmie started to swim as close as they could to the waterfall. but alice stayed near shore, and who should come along but nurse jane fuzzy-wuzzy, the muskrat nurse who was out for a walk. she told alice about sammie and susie littletail, and said the little rabbit children were well. now all this while jimmie and lulu were swimming nearer and nearer to the waterfall. they could hear the water splashing on the rocks below, and they liked to listen to it. "we had better stop," called lulu, after a while. "no, i'm going closer," declared jimmie. "there is no danger; come on!" but just then lulu felt something pulling her down toward where the big wheel went around and around, and she got frightened. then she swam just as hard as she could toward shore, and called to her brother: "jimmie, don't go any closer! come back!" but jimmie was a boy duck, and wanted to be brave, so he answered: "i'm going just a little bit closer." now lulu had a very hard time, indeed, getting to shore, as the current was so strong, but she finally managed it. jimmie, however, kept on swimming nearer and nearer to the falls. then, all at once, before you could stick a pin in a cushion, what should take place but that the little boy duck felt himself being pulled along by the rushing water, just as the soap floats along when you pull the plug out of the bathtub. oh, how fast the water swept him along! jimmie splashed and paddled with all his might, and tried to swim ashore, where lulu was anxiously watching him, but he couldn't seem to move. there he was, being carried along to the edge of the falls, with the cruel, sharp stones below, and the big millwheel going around and around. then jimmie knew he was in great danger, and he cried out: "help! help! help!" three times, as loudly as he could call. lulu and alice heard him, and were much frightened. they started to go to the aid of their brother, but grandfather goosey-gander warned them not to. "but who will save jimmie?" they cried. "i will try to," answered the old gentleman duck. so he got a rope and threw it to jimmie, but the rope wasn't long enough, and the poor little boy duck kept getting closer and closer to the edge of the falls, and the big millwheel. oh, how hard he was swimming, but the water was stronger than he was. "get a board!" cried bully, the frog, who came hopping along just then. so the ducks and the geese got a board and threw it to jimmie, but it floated past him, and he couldn't get upon it. then it surely did look as if he were going to be carried right over the falls, for he was being swept nearer and more near, and he could hear the water making a terrible roaring, splashing sound on the rocks. you have no idea how scared jimmie was, and he wished he had never gone near the falls. then the other ducks got a long stick and grandfather goosey-gander held it out, so the little boy duck could grasp it in his bill, but the stick broke, and every one said it was too bad! then, just as jimmie was almost to the edge of the falls, if nurse jane fuzzy-wuzzy didn't call out: "stand aside, everybody! i am a good swimmer and i will save him!" then what do you think happened? why that good, kind muskrat jumped right into the water, and hurried to where jimmie was. she dived down, and got hold of his yellow legs in her teeth, but she took hold very gently, so as not to hurt him. then she was such a fine swimmer that she managed to get to shore, towing and pulling jimmie with her, for the water could not hurt nurse jane fuzzy-wuzzy, no matter how hard the millwheel splashed. so that is how jimmie was saved from the waterfall, and when his papa and mamma came home they were very glad, of course, and why shouldn't they be? but, all the same lulu and jimmie had to be punished for disobeying, and going too near the falls when they had been told not to, and their punishment was that they could not go in swimming for three days. and if you ever were a duck you know that was very severe punishment indeed, very severe. but i'm not going to say that jimmie and lulu didn't deserve it, no indeed i'm not; not if you were to offer me an orange and a half; and i'm very fond of oranges; very. well, that's how things will sometimes happen in this world, won't they? do the best that you can. but now i suppose you want to know what the story will be about to-morrow night. well, if i see a pink grasshopper, i shall tell you about a visit the wibblewobble children paid to poor, sick, billie bushytail. story v a visit to billie bushtail you remember how lulu and jimmie had to be punished for disobeying their papa and mamma, and going too near the waterfall, i suppose? they couldn't go in swimming for three days. well, the three days were very nearly up; that is there was just one day left, so lulu said: "come on, jimmie, we will go for a walk in the woods. don't you want to come, too, alice?" now, of course, alice could go in the water if she wanted to, for she was not punished, as she had not gone near the waterfall, but instead of going swimming alone, she stayed with her brother and sister, and i call that very kind of her. so, when lulu asked her to take a walk in the woods, alice answered: "of course, i will go with you. who knows, perhaps we may have an adventure!" for you see alice was very romantic. that is, she always hoped something would happen that never had happened before, and she was always hoping a fairy prince would come along and rescue her from some danger. but, up to this time, nothing like this had ever occurred, though those duck children are going to have a small adventure pretty soon, i think. "all right," spoke jimmie, "let's take a walk, and see what happens." so they walked on through the woods, which were very fine that day, and they felt the nice, warm, brown earth on their yellow feet, and it was almost as good as going in the water. pretty soon, just after they had passed under a buttonball tree, the ducklings heard a noise, and who should run out from under a bush but little sister sallie. you remember her, i hope; sister sallie, who was named after lolly-pop-lally, and who lived with johnnie and billie bushytail. "why, sister sallie!" cried lulu wibblewobble, "where are you going this bright, beautiful, sunshiny day?" "i'm going for the doctor," answered sister sallie. "are you sick?" inquired jimmie. "you don't look so." "no, it's billie bushytail," said the little girl squirrel. "he is quite ill, and i am going for dr. possum. billie has a fever and headache, and he snuffles something terrible. his papa and mamma are quite worried about him. isn't it terrible to be sick?" "i don't know," answered jimmie, "for i was never sick." "i was once," remarked alice, "and it is not nice, i do assure you. suppose we go call on billie bushytail maybe we could cheer him up." "i think that would be lovely," spoke sister sallie. "you go see him, while i hurry for the doctor." so the three wibblewobble children walked on through the pleasant woods, until they came to the place where the bushytail family had moved. their home was now in a hollow stump, close to the ground, and there was a fallen tree leading up to it, just like a plank over the brook, so the ducks could easily walk up it. they went right to the front door, and jimmie knocked with his strong, yellow bill. mrs. bushytail opened the door, and when she saw the little ducklings, she said: "oh, my dears! do not come too near, for we don't know what disease billie may have. i would not want you to catch it." "oh, we are not afraid," spoke jimmie. "but we will not come too near. we were out walking in the woods, and we met little sister sallie. we came to call on billie, and cheer him up." "that is very kind of you," said mamma bushytail. "the poor little fellow is quite miserable. i put his feet in hot mustard water, and gave him some jamaica ginger, and he is now in bed. i fear he has the epizootic, which is a very dreadful disease." "oh, i hope not!" exclaimed alice, kindly. "perhaps he only has the pip, which is not nearly so bad." "perhaps," answered mamma bushytail. "i have sent johnnie for some quinine, and that may help billie." "may we see him?" asked lulu. "perhaps we can cheer him up." "to be sure, you may see him," replied billie's mamma; so she opened the door a little wider in order that the ducklings might look in the hollow-stumphouse, for of course they could not enter, as it was too small. they saw billie, all wrapped up in blankets, in bed, and he looked quite ill. but he seemed happy in spite of that, for the hot mustard footbath had helped him some. he smiled when he saw jimmie and lulu and alice. then jimmie gave mrs. bushytail some nice acorns he had picked up in the woods and had carried under his wing. "they are for billie," said jimmie. next lulu gave the sick squirrel-boy some nice, sweet grass she had gathered on the edge of the pond, and alice had some lovely sugared sweet-flag root, which is very good in case of sickness. then billie felt much better, and after a while jimmie said: "let's sing a funny little song for billie." so jimmie, alice and lulu sang this little verse to cheer up poor, sick billie, and, if you can get a good singer to sing it for you, it doesn't sound at all bad, i assure you: don't mind if you have to take stuff from a spoon, 'tis better than having to climb to the moon. you might make a stumble or else have a tumble, and then you would fall pretty soon. we came, little billie, to make you feel better. at first we were going to write you a letter; but we had no ink, dear, so that's why we came here. we're dry now, but we'll soon be wetter. then billie laughed right out loud, he felt so much better, and he ate some acorns and the sweet-flag root, nibbling at it with his sharp teeth. then a scratching sound was heard on the stump, and who should come up it but sister sallie, with dr. possum. the doctor said "he!" and he said "hum!" and he said "ahem!" then he felt billie's pulse and made him put out his tongue. then dr. possum exclaimed: "why, this little squirrel isn't sick at all! no, sir! not at all. my goodness me; no, indeed! why, the very idea! sick? i guess not!" but mrs. bushytail said her little boy had been very ill, and dr. possum answered: "well, if he was sick, these little ducks have cured him. they are just as good at doctoring as i am; yes, indeed; and a thermometer or two besides. there is no need for me." "it was the funny little song that cured me," said billie. then he got out of bed and began frisking around; the doctor went home, and the little squirrel was all well. after a while jimmie, lulu and alice had to leave, and they went home, feeling very happy for the good they had done to billie bushytail, for it always makes you feel happy to help some one. now, if you promise not to whisper in school next week you shall hear to-morrow night how jimmie tried to become a flying machine. [illustration:] story vi jimmie as a flying machine one day, i think it must have been about three-and-a-half-quacks past cornmeal time, there was a great commotion in the yard, and around the pond where jimmie wibblewobble and his two sisters and his papa and mamma lived. there was a great fluttering in the air, and something, colored in beautiful tints, flew down and settled on the water with a little splash. "my goodness, what is that?" asked alice wibblewobble, who was easily frightened. at first no one knew, for, though the creature was shaped just like a duck, it was not colored like any duck jimmie had even seen. it was gold and bronze and green, with little patches of red and blue here and there, and was a most beautiful creature. "maybe that is a fairy," suggested lulu, who sometimes read fairy stories. "oh, if it only might be one, and could tell me where the fairy prince is!" exclaimed alice, with a sigh. "nonsense!" cried jimmie, who was just going off to see his friend bully, the frog. "stuff and nonsense!" "that's what i say, too," called out the strange creature. "nonsense! i'm not a fairy at all. i'm a duck like yourselves, only i am a wild duck." then its wings beat the air and water, and the wild duck arose and flew right over the pond and back again, as quickly as could be. "my goodness! how do you do that?" asked jimmie, who never could fly more than a few feet. "why," answered the wild duck, "i just did it, that's all." "snippery, snappery snails!" cried jimmie, "you're just like a flying machine that my papa read about in the paper." "well, somewhat like one, perhaps," admitted the wild duck. "i can fly a long distance. did you ever try?" "no," answered jimmie; "i never did." "perhaps you would like to try now," suggested the other. "i will stay here a little while, and show you. it is very easy. you can just as well become a flying machine as not. come, i will fly up on the fence. you come up here, too, and when i say 'go!' why start off, and, who knows? perhaps you will do as well as i. don't be afraid." "of course, i'll try," said jimmie, very bravely, for he was always wanting to try new things. "so will i," cried lulu. "i want to fly, too." "oh, you had better be careful," warned alice, who was a very cautious duckling, never getting into danger if she could help it. "oh, we'll be careful, but we are going to become flying machines just the same," said jimmie. so the wild duck flew up on the fence, which was at one edge of the pond, and, oh, how beautiful he looked with the sun shining on his finely colored feathers. jimmie had quite a struggle to get on the top rail of the fence, and so did lulu, but they finally managed it, and, just as they stood beside the wild duck, who should come along but grandfather goosey-gander. he asked the two wibblewobble children what they were going to do, and when jimmie said they were going to learn to become flying machines, the old duck said, "humph!" just as quickly as he could. "if you had such hard work getting to the top of the fence, how do you think you can fly across the pond?" he asked, and then he sneezed three times, for he was catching cold. "oh, we will do it," answered jimmie, for, of course, you see, he really thought he could. but something is going to happen, just as sure as you can add up two and three and make five out of them. "are you all ready?" asked the wild duck of jimmie and lulu, as they stood beside him, balanced on the fence rail. "yes," replied jimmie, trying to stop his heart from beating so rapidly, "we are ready, mr. wild duck. you fly and we will fly also." "watch me carefully," said the beautiful creature, "and do exactly as i do." they were just about to fly, when the old rooster, who had been picking up corn down the road, come running up. "hold on!" he cried, "i can fly as good as that wild duck! wait for me and we will have a race!" so they waited until the old rooster got up on the fence rail, too. then the wild duck counted: "one to begin with, two for a show, three to make ready and four to go!" then he flapped his wings, gave a loud "squawk-squawk" and sailed over that pond as nice as you please. well, of course, i've got to tell exactly what happened, or it wouldn't be fair. jimmie tried to fly, but i wish you could have seen him. he only went a little way, and then, because his body was too heavy for his wings, or because his wings were too light for his body, he came flopping right down to the ground, ker-thump, and he hurt his nose considerably, let me tell you, for considerably is quite a lot. well, poor lulu, if she didn't fall, too! yes, sir, she turned a somersault right in the air, before all those watching ducks, and she, too, came down ker-flimmax-ker-flump, and she hurt her left-hand wing. then she cried once, "boo-hoo!" just like that. then she stopped. jimmie didn't cry at all, if you'll believe me, no, sir, not a mite, but he felt badly all the same. and then that rooster! oh, dear me, how foolish some roosters are, anyhow, now aren't they, really? well, he started off all right, but just then the wind got in the wrong place, and it turned him upside down. now, no rooster can fly upside down, no matter what else he can do, so that one came flippity-flop down into the water ker-splash-ker-sposh; and one more besides! maybe he didn't feel mortified! but that wild duck! oh, my, goodness me! how he did fly. around and around, and around that pond he went, never touching the water once. then he came to where jimmie and lulu were, and he told them how sorry he felt for them, before he flew away to a far, far distant land, where only wild ducks live. then grandfather goosey-gander went up to those two wibblewobble children, and so did alice, to lend lulu her handkerchief. and grandfather goosey said: "it is better for tame ducks to stay on the water, or on land. they were not made for flying." so that was the end of jimmie trying to become an air ship. to-morrow night you may hear about lulu and the gold fish, that is if the lemon squeezer doesn't pinch me. story vii lulu and the gold fish well, here we are again, after a rest over night, and all ready for another story, i suppose. let me see, it was to be about the fairy prince and alice wibblewobble--no, hold on there, i'm wrong. i know it. lulu and the gold fish; to be sure! well, here we go. now, of course, i could make this about the fairy prince--in fact, he has something to do with this story--but as the gold fish has more, i put her name at the top. lulu wibblewobble, the little duck girl, who could throw stones almost as straight as a boy, was swimming around the pond near the pen where she lived. it was a nice, warm, sunshiny day, and lulu wanted to do something, but she didn't just know what. jimmie, her brother, was off playing with bully, the frog, and alice, her sister, was straightening out her feathers in the back parlor bedroom, where a piece of tin could be used for a looking glass. all at once lulu's mamma called to her: "lulu, i want you to go to the store to get some acorn meal and a yeast cake. i am going to set bread to-night. hurry, now, that's a good girl." "all right, mamma," answered lulu, and she steered herself around, just like a motorboat in the water, and started for the store, paddling as hard as she could. she had not gone very far, with the little ripples and waves chasing each other across the pond, before she saw something swimming close beside her. lulu looked down, and what do you think she saw? well, you might guess, but then again, you might not, so i'll tell you. it was a gold fish. oh, it was such a beautiful gold fish, with red and silvery spots and streaks, and a long, feathery tail that looked like lace in the water. "hello!" exclaimed lulu; "i didn't know you lived here." "oh, yes," answered the fish. "i have lived here for some time, but, you see, during the cold weather i stay down in the mud. however, as it is now spring, i have come up, and i am going to play around all summer." "that's nice," remarked lulu. "what's your name?" "my name is fannie tail," replied the fish. "you see i got that name because my tail is shaped like a fan, but most persons just call me fan tail. you may, if you like." "all right," agreed lulu. "i will. my name is lulu, but you may call me lu, if you wish." "good," answered the fish, turning a double somersault in the water and wiggling her right fin as if trying to shake hands. "now we are well acquainted. and may i ask where you are going?" so lulu told the fish girl about having to go to the store, and fan seemed quite pleased to hear it. the two swam on together for some distance, the fish just under the water and lulu on top. pretty soon lulu asked fan where she was going, and the gold fish replied: "i am going to the drug store for some sweet flag root for the fairy prince," and once more the fish girl turned a double somersault and opened her mouth wide, for she had a cold in her head, in consequence of being so wet. but as it is very difficult to write a story and make a gold fish talk as if she had a cold in the head, i have decided to make fan talk just ordinarily. you never would have known anything about the cold if i hadn't mentioned it, so it's just as well. "pardon me," said lulu, just like a telephone girl, "but did i understand you to say you were going for some sweet flag root for the fairy prince?" "yes," answered fan tail, "that's what i said." "but!" cried lulu. "a fairy prince! i never knew there were fairies in this pond!" "neither did lots of other persons," replied fan. "it's supposed to be a secret, but i'll tell you. and, another thing. there is something strange about this fairy prince. do you promise never to tell?" "yes," answered lulu. "cross my heart i'll never tell," and she lifted one leg out of the water and crossed her heart as well as she could. "then," said the gold fish in a whisper, "if you will come with me i will show you the fairy prince. that is, after i go to the drug store for him. but mind, it's a great secret." so the two swam on together, but lulu felt sad. and the reason she felt sad was this: her sister alice, who was very romantic--that is, she continually wanted things to happen that never could happen--alice always had wished to see a fairy prince. now, unless fan would let lulu tell the secret, alice would never see a prince. and to think he was right in the same pond with her! oh, it's dreadful to have a secret you can't tell even to your own sister, i think. lulu sighed so that she made quite a wave in the pond, and when the fish saw this she knew something was the matter. so she asked lulu what it was, and lulu told her how alice was just crazy to see a fairy prince, and had been dreaming of one for ever and ever so long. "and i've promised not to tell," ended lulu. "poor alice! how disappointed she will be not to see a real, live fairy!" "well, perhaps it is too bad," admitted fan tail, and she sneezed so hard that the water flew up in a spray, just like a fountain. "perhaps i shall let you off from your promise," the gold fish went on. "yes, i think you may bring alice to see the fairy prince." "and jimmie? jimmie's my brother. i know he would love to see him, too. may he come?" "yes, you may bring jimmie also. but mind, i don't want you to be disappointed. most fairy princes are disappointing, so don't say i didn't warn you." "oh, that will be all right," spoke lulu, now quite happy again. "may i bring them this afternoon?" "oh! i suppose so, but no one else, mind. you see the fairy prince is rather bashful." so lulu promised she would bring no one else, and she hurried to the store and back again. fan tail, the gold fish, went to the drug store for the sweet flag root for the fairy prince, and on the way she stubbed her nose against a stone, which made her cold in the head worse than ever; but of course we have nothing to do with that except to feel sorry for her. when lulu got home she was so excited she dropped the yeast cake in the pond, and it would have gotten all wet only it was wrapped in tin-foil. then she told alice and jimmie about the fairy prince she was going to see, but, as this story is too long already, i must stop, and in case the postman does not blow his whistle too loud and scary, i shall have the pleasure, to-morrow night, of telling you about the fairy prince. and i hope you won't be disappointed. story viii who the fairy prince was mamma and papa wibblewobble were sitting in front of the duck pen, talking with grandfather goosey-gander and the big rooster. they were so busily engaged in conversation about the best way to serve cold corn meal mixed with water, that when lulu asked her parents if she and jimmie and alice could go for a swim, mrs. wibblewobble said: "yes, my dear, but be careful you don't get wet." now wasn't that a funny thing for a duck mamma to say to her little duck girl? but mamma wibblewobble was absent minded, so we must excuse her. you see she thought lulu wanted to go for a walk in the woods. well, it didn't much matter, but i thought i would speak about it. "can we go?" asked jimmie, when lulu came back. "yes," she answered. "hurry now, for we are going to see the fairy prince, as the gold fish promised." "oh, i'm so excited i can hardly wait!" exclaimed alice, who was quite romantic, as i have explained. "am i swimming straight, lulu? i wouldn't for all the world, have a fairy prince see me swimming crooked." "oh, don't be so fussy!" called out jimmie. "i wish bully, the frog was here. he and i could have some fun." "oh, no!" cried lulu. "we are the only ones allowed to see the fairy prince. it's a secret, and he is quite bashful." "how are you going to find him?" asked jimmie. "this is a large pond, and it's going to be quite a task to locate the fairy prince, or even the gold fish." "oh! let's don't worry," suggested alice. "worrying is one of the very worst things you can do, especially when there is anything in it about a fairy. don't you know that fairies are especially made not to worry? we will find our way somehow. either a golden ball will appear and roll on before us to show us the right direction, or else a magical boat will suddenly come up in the water, and we can ride right to the place." "hu! what do we want of a boat?" asked jimmie. "can't we swim? i don't believe much in this fairy business, anyhow." "then, if you don't believe, you never will see the fairy prince," declared alice. "only those who believe in fairies can see them. i know, for i've read lots of fairy stories." you see alice was very much in earnest about this matter. so the three children swam on together over the pond, and the waters sparkled in the sun, until you would have thought there were thousands of diamonds floating on top. the breeze blew just enough to make little ripples, and altogether it was a very fine day. they went on and on, until pretty soon they were in a part of the pond they had never before visited. tall rushes grew on either side, and the long meadow grass came right down to the edge of the water and trailed in it, making little green caves in which to hide. it was cool and quiet there, and very lovely. the ducks liked it, but still there was no sign of the fairy prince; and the gold fish had not come to show them the way. "i don't believe we'll ever see any fairy prince," said jimmie. "oh! but the gold fish promised me," spoke lulu. "hush!" cried alice. "we must keep very quiet. we may meet the magical boat, or the golden ball, any minute." and just then, what should happen, but that they heard a voice singing. yes, sir, just as true as i'm telling you, a voice singing, right down under the water. and this is what it sang, in silvery tones, just like the little bell that tinkles on pussy's neck: the fairy prince lies deep and dark, waiting for the firefly's spark; if you wish to see him now, follow me, and make a bow. and, all at once, who should appear but fan tail, the gold fish. she popped right out of the water, and when she saw the three duck children she asked: "did you hear me singing?" "was that you?" asked lulu. "it was," replied fan. "but why don't you do as i said? if you wish to see the fairy prince you must bow. he always wants people to do that." so lulu and jimmie bowed once, and alice bowed three times, and when they asked why she did that she said you must always do things by threes where fairies are concerned. "now, follow me," called the gold fish; so they swam farther and farther up the part of the pond where they had never before been. it got smaller and smaller, until it was like a little brook, with rushes bending over it, while the water whispered to the green stems. "the fairy prince lives in there," suddenly said the gold fish, poking her head up out of the water, so she could speak more plainly, and she pointed with her fin to a hole in the bank. "he will come out presently. bow your prettiest." well, you can just imagine how excited the duck children were. alice fairly trembled, and even jimmie was interested, as they all bowed. "all ready now!" went on the gold fish. "behold the fairy prince. behold! behold!" and she made a booming noise under the water, just like the big bass drum, when a man in the circus jumps over sixteen elephants and a quarter all at once. then, all of a sudden, oh! maybe in a second and a little more what should come out of that hole in the side of the bank, just above the water, what, i say, should come out of that hole--now be careful, take tight hold of the arms of the chair, and hold your breaths, so as not to be disappointed, what should come out of the hole but a big, brownish-black, spotted with red and yellow, wrinkle-legged, hard-shelled, sharp-beaked mud turtle! there, now! at first the duck children were so frightened and surprised that they did not know what to do or say. they had expected something so different. did you? well, i'm awfully sorry, but you know i'm not responsible. i merely tell what happens. "why, that isn't a fairy prince!" cried jimmie, speaking first. "of course not," added lulu. then the gold fish came quite close to them and whispered something. "do you know," said fan tail, "i have always had my doubts about it myself. he says he's the fairy prince--insists on it, in fact,--and he has it engraved on his visiting cards. but i have my doubts, only i don't dare say so, for you see i work for him, run errands and the like of that; so far be it from me to say he is not a fairy prince. i have, however, guided you to him. behold, the fairy prince!" and she called the last real loudly, for the mud turtle was looking right at her. then she added in a whisper: "but i have my doubts." "hush! oh hush, please!" begged alice. "of course he is a fairy prince! they are always disguised like that--always appearing as something different from what they really are, you know. sometimes they are toads, and sometimes frogs, and sometimes mud turtles, i suppose, though i never heard of any of the last kind. but of course he is a fairy prince." then she bowed again, three times, and said: "fairy prince, i salute thee." "fairy nothing!" grunted jimmie. "he is no more a fairy than i am." then the mud turtle heard them talking, and he stuck his head farther out of the shell, and he looked around with his snaky neck, and he came a little more out of the hole, and said: "of course i am the fairy prince. everybody knows that. i've been a fairy prince for ever and ever so long." and then he sneezed, just to show that, though he was a fairy prince, he was not proud. "what shall i do, o fairy prince, to change you back into your own rightful shape?" asked alice. "tell me, and i will do it at once. dost thou need three drops of magical water?" "no," answered the mud turtle, "not any at all, thank you, so much. i am a fairy prince, but i am satisfied with my shape as i am; and i do not want to change. i have always been this way, and i always want to stay so. please be so kind as to go away. i want to eat my dinner." so they hurried away, for the gold fish whispered that the mud turtle was always cross when he ate. jimmie and lulu were much disappointed, but alice was not, for she insisted that the mud turtle was really wonderful, and was a fairy prince in disguise. now what do you think about it? i leave it to you. but whatever you may think please don't be hasty. take plenty of time. perhaps you had better wait for the story to-morrow night, which if the cow bell doesn't ring and awaken the doll in the baby carriage will be about how grandfather goosey-gander got into trouble and out again. story ix grandfather goosey-gander in trouble on their way home, after having seen the mud turtle fairy prince, jimmie, lulu and alice wibblewobble, of course, talked of nothing else. they wished the prince had done something wonderful, instead of merely sending them away when he ate his dinner, and they hoped he would perform a magical feat another time. he really did, as i shall tell you about later, if i do not forget it. the gold fish swam a little way back with the duck children, as she said the prince always liked to be alone when he ate. "well, how did you like him?" asked fan tail of the ducks. "not very much," replied lulu. "i never did care for mud turtles." "nor i," added jimmie. "i don't believe he was really a mud turtle at all," declared alice. "he was a real, truly, fairy prince, and he only looked like a mud turtle, because we did not have the right kind of eyes with which to see him or else because we had no faith in him. it is always so, in fairy stories. you must believe, or you can't see the beautiful things." "well, i'd rather have some snails to eat," said jimmie. "you don't care how they look; it's how they taste. i'm never going to bother with fairies again." it was about three days after this that jimmie and lulu were walking in the deep, green woods, under the trees, picking tender leaves and roots to eat. they were hoping they might meet johnnie and billie bushytail, the squirrels whom they had not seen for some time. alice stayed home to curl her feathers. all at once, as they were walking along, the little boy and girl duck heard a funny noise. "what's that?" cried jimmie. "i don't know," answered lulu. "it sounds like some one calling." and, sure enough, it was. as they stopped to listen they could hear some one crying: "help! help! oh, help!" "let's go and see who it is," suggested jimmie. "maybe it's a dog, or a bad rat, or a fox," objected lulu. "no," said her brother, "they would never call for help. come on." [illustration:] so they walked on, looking this way and that, to see what they could see; on and on through the woods, until, just as they came from behind a big oak tree, what should they catch sight of, but poor, grandfather goosey-gander, caught fast in the middle of a pile of brush. "oh dear me! oh my goodness me sakes alive! oh, floppy! floppy! floppy! oh, a bag of salt and some corn meal!" cried the poor old gentleman duck. "i am in a terrible state! help me!" then lulu and jimmie ran right up to him, and asked him what was the matter. "oh dear," he said, "i really can't say. i've lost my glasses, and i can't see very well. all i know is that i was walking in the woods, thinking what a nice day it was, when, all of a sudden, in about a quack and a half, i found myself caught fast. and the worst part of it is that i can't get loose!" "let me take a look," said jimmie. so he went quite close and looked, and he saw that grandfather goosey-gander's right leg was held in between two sticks. the old gentleman duck was in great pain. "is my leg broken?" he asked jimmie. "no," answered the little boy duck, "but some of the skin is scraped off." "i knew it!" cried grandfather goosey-gander. "now i won't be able to go fishing next week. oh, i do seem to have the worst luck; don't i?" "we will get you out," lulu said to him, and then she and her brother went to the aid of the poor old duck. they pushed this way and that way, and they pulled that way and this way, and they lifted up on the pieces of sticks, and they pushed down on them, but it was no use. poor grandfather goosey-gander was stuck fast there, and i think it was a shame, but it couldn't be helped. oh my no, and a bit of peppermint candy besides! "well, i guess i will have to stay here and die," said the discouraged old duck, and he felt so badly that he wept. lulu and jimmie cried also, they felt so sorry. the three of them cried, and their tears were so many that if they had cried long enough there would have been quite a pond there, and they could have gone in swimming. that is, of course, all but grandfather goosey-gander, and he couldn't swim for he was held fast. but they didn't weep long enough. "let's try once more," said lulu, after a while, and then she and jimmie tried harder than ever to get grandfather's leg out. but they couldn't. "if i only had a saw!" cried jimmie, "i could get him loose." "ha! perhaps i can help you!" suddenly exclaimed a voice. then, as quickly as you can break an egg by dropping it on the floor (only of course you must not do it without permission), who should appear but nurse jane fuzzy-wuzzy, the muskrat. she was out walking with sammie and susie littletail. "oh, somebody do please help me!" cried grandfather goosey-gander. "i've lost my glasses, my leg is caught, and i have a pain in my back. oh, oh, oh!" "i'll gnaw through those sticks in a jiffy!" cried jane fuzzy-wuzzy, for a jiffy is very quick time indeed. oh, yes, and a broken down couch besides! so, telling sammie and susie littletail to stand back, and calling to jimmie and lulu to remain with them, the muskrat nurse set to work to free grandfather goosey-gander. her teeth were like the chisels the carpenter uses and in a few seconds the old duck's leg was free. oh, how glad he was, and how thankful to nurse jane fuzzy-wuzzy! of course the duck and rabbit children also were glad. then jane gnawed out a little crutch for grandfather to walk with, as he was a trifle lame, and what do you think? why, susie littletail found his glasses for him; and sammie and jimmie rubbed his back so nicely that the pain all went out of that. now i call that doing something don't you? well, grandfather goosey-gander started for home, and jimmie and lulu asked sammie and susie to come and play with them. nurse jane fuzzy-wuzzy said they might, and they had a fine time under the trees in the woods, playing tag of all kinds; cross-tag, wood-tag, dirt-tag, leaf-tag, stump-tag, and a new kind, called acorn-tag, which i will explain about later. then the bunny children went home with their nurse and jimmie and lulu also went home and about two days after that a very funny thing happened. what it was you shall hear to-morrow night if the trolley car doesn't get off the track, but i'll let you know this much--it's going to be about the rooster trying to swim. story x the rooster tries to swim grandfather goosey-gander was quite lame the next day from having been caught in the brush pile, and could not go very far away from the duck pen. he did manage to hobble around on the crutch which nurse jane fuzzy-wuzzy made for him, and he sat in a sunny corner, reading the newspaper with his glasses which susie littletail found. he was reading away as alice, lulu and jimmie wibblewobble were playing about on the edge of the pond, and the little duck children made so much noise that the old grandfather could not understand what was in the papers. "can't you children play something quiet?" he asked for papa and mamma wibblewobble had gone visiting, and grandfather goosey-gander was left to mind the house. "play some nice, easy game," he suggested. "let's play acorn tag," said lulu. "all right, you're it," answered jimmie. so they each took an acorn which they found in the woods and put it in their bills. then lulu had to chase after jimmie and alice, and when she touched either one of them with her wing she had to call out: "you can't run a little bit, i've tagged you, and now you're it." yes, that's what she had to call, and she had to do it without letting the acorn fall out of her bill. now, if you think that's a very easy thing to do, just you try it, that's all. lulu didn't have much trouble putting her wing on jimmie or alice, but, every time she tried to call out the little verse the acorn would roll out of her bill and she'd have to start all over again, or it wouldn't have been fair. so it was some time before she got over being "it," and then it was jimmie's turn. well, they played acorn tag for quite a while, and, when they got tired of that they all went in swimming. they swam around in circles, and criss-crossed and went in squares, and in triangles and all sorts of queer figures, including eight, nine, ten, which are very difficult figures, indeed, for little ducks. while they were swimming away, having lots of fun, and far enough off so that grandfather goosey-gander could read his paper in peace, who should come down to the edge of the pond but the rooster. his name was mr. cock a. doodle, and he was very proud. he walked right down to the edge of the water, and looked at the ducks. then he crowed as loud as he could, and flapped his wings, just as if he were saying: "there! i'd like to see any of you do that! ha! hum! oh my, yes, indeed!" "how do you do, mr. cock a. doodle?" asked jimmie. "ahem! i am pretty well, my young friend," replied the rooster. "and how may you happen to be to-day? and how are your sisters, lulu and alice wibblewobble?" "we are very well," answered lulu and alice, and lulu went on: "don't you wish you could swim, mr. doodle?" "i can," said the rooster, and he strutted back and forth at the edge of the pond. "certainly i can swim. what put the notion into your heads that i can't?" "we never saw you," spoke jimmie. "ahem! perhaps not. you never saw me stand on one foot and jump over a barrel, but that doesn't prove that i can't do it," replied mr. doodle. "i can swim if i choose. i have never cared to, that's all." "try now," suggested lulu, for she didn't believe that rooster could swim, no matter what he said. "oh, the water is too cold to go swimming now," said mr. doodle. "i never swim in cold water." "why, it's as warm as warm can be," declared alice, and she splashed a few drops upon the rooster, so he could feel it. "well, er--ahem! the wind is blowing too much," said the rooster, when he felt the nice, warm water. "why, it doesn't blow at all," answered jimmie. "well, i haven't my swimming shoes on," objected mr. cock a. doodle. "i can't swim without them. you ducks have pieces of skin between your toes, so the water won't slip through, but i haven't my webbed feet on." "oh, that is very easily fixed," said lulu. "we will take some pieces of cloth, and tie them over your claws to make them like ours. do you think you could swim then?" "yes," answered the rooster, "i think i could." you see he had no more excuses to make. oh, wasn't he a tricky old rooster, though, eh? so lulu and jimmie got some bits of cloth, and, with long pieces of ribbon grass, they bound the cloth on the rooster's claws so his feet looked something like a duck's. "now come on and we'll have a swimming race," suggested jimmie. "walk right down into the water as we do. it won't hurt you the least bit, mr. doodle." "pooh! do you think i'm afraid?" inquired mr. doodle, and he actually did walk right into the water, while all the ducks and chickens and geese looked on in wonder, for they had never seen the rooster swim, and didn't believe he could. oh, but mr. doodle was proud! he even tried to crow as he stepped into the water, but, as he wasn't used to it, it made his breath feel just as if it were choking him when he tried to swallow. yes, he tried to crow, but all the noise he could make was a sort of a gasp and a sigh and a cough and a splutter and a sneeze and choke and a whimper. "ha! aha! ahem! ha! ha! ho! ho i will now swim" cried the rooster, and then the water got so deep that he couldn't wade any more, and he had to float. he struck out with his feet, and tried to paddle just as he saw lulu and alice and jimmie doing, but a very funny thing happened. the rooster went right around in a circle, for he only used one leg at a time. then he got dizzy, and went around the other way. then he had to stop. next he flapped his wings and splashed the water all over. say, i wish you could have seen him. it was as good as a circus! he got his tail all wet, and his back got all wet, and, as his feathers weren't the kind that water runs off from, he was soon as soaked as your umbrella ever was. that made him heavy and he began to sink. oh, how he splashed and spluttered around in that pond! he couldn't swim any more than my typewriter can, and, all at once, what do you suppose happened? why, he felt himself sinking more and more and more. oh, it was terrible! "save me! oh, save me!" mr. doodle cried. "i am going down! help me, please! help! help! help!" then the duck children felt sorry, and swam to him as fast as they could. each one took hold of that poor rooster; lulu and alice by a wing, and jimmie by the rooster's tail, and they towed him to shore. oh, but he was a sorry looking sight! he couldn't even crow, nor flap his wings. "i thought you said you could swim," spoke jimmie. "hush!" begged alice, who was very kind-hearted. "don't be casting up! don't make him feel bad." "oh, i feel bad enough without that," said mr. doodle, sighing. "i guess the water wasn't right for swimming to-day," and with that he walked off, and hid himself in some leaves, to get dry, for he hadn't any towels at his house. but the wibblewobble children kept on swimming, for they knew how; and now, let me see; well, how about a story of an enchanted castle for to-morrow night; eh? that is if the scissors don't cut up too much. story xi alice wibblewobble's enchanted castle alice wibblewobble had made up her mind to find out more about the fairy prince. she couldn't believe he was only a mud turtle. she felt sure he was merely in that form until some one came along, pronounced the magical words, or sprinkled the magical water on him, or did something else, to change him back again. "i think i will have another talk with him," she said. "perhaps, if i go all alone, he will tell me what to do. oh, wouldn't it be perfectly lovely if i could change him into a king with a golden-diamond-ruby crown. yes, i certainly shall go." so alice swam off up the pond, in the direction the gold fish had once led lulu and jimmie and her. well, alice went on and on and on, for ever so long, but she couldn't seem to find the place where the mud turtle fairy prince lived. she saw the green rushes hanging over the water's edge, she saw the bright ripples, just like diamonds that might be in a king's crown, and she heard the birds singing; but there was no mud hole where the fairy prince lived. "oh dear!" exclaimed alice. "i'm afraid i'm lost." "what? lost in this beautiful place?" asked a voice just above her head, and, looking up, alice saw a dear little yellow bird sitting on a tree over the water. "yes," said alice, and a tear came into her eye, and ran down her yellow bill. "i am lost. i can't find the fairy prince." "oh, that is too bad," said the little yellow bird. "i don't just know what a fairy prince is, but it must be dreadful not to be able to find one when you want to. do not feel badly, however. i can take you to an enchanted castle, if that will do." "oh, can you?" cried alice. "that will be lovely. i had almost as soon see an enchanted castle as a fairy prince. is it a really, truly one?" "oh, yes," answered the bird. "it certainly is. it is the most beautiful place in all the world. come, and i will show you." then alice felt delighted, and she walked out of the water, and waddled along on the land. the bird flew along, going slowly, so as not to get ahead of alice. on and on they went, over green fields, and through the woods, until, pretty soon, they came to a place where the bird stopped. "we are near the enchanted castle," he said. "but you must be very careful." "why?" asked alice. "oh, because every once in a while a lot of water spouts up out of the castle, and it might drown you, if you were not careful." "oh, i don't mind water," answered alice. then they went on a little farther, and, in a short time, oh, perhaps about as long as it takes you to peel an orange, and put some salt on it, they came to a most beautiful place. i wish you could have seen it! at first alice thought the rainbow had fallen from the sky, there were so many colors. there was red and green and blue and orange and violet and yellow and pink and purple and even some of that skilligimink color, that once turned sammie littletail sky-blue-pink. then the little duck girl saw that the colors were all from different flowers that smelled just like mamma's perfume bottles. next, as she walked on a little farther, she saw a great pile of stones high in the air, and, around the bottom of the pile was a big basin of water, not quite as large as the pond at the ducks' pen, but nearly, green vines and flowers were growing in and out among the stones, and birds were flying here and there, singing. "this," said the little yellow bird, "is the enchanted castle. i live here all summer, and so do all my friends. sometimes we bathe in the water, and sometimes we hide under the flowers. then, when the water spouts up out of the top of the castle we all fly away." and just then, what should happen but that some water began to spurt, then and there, right out of the top of that big pile of stones. up, up it went, in a spray, spreading out at the tops like an umbrella in a rain storm, and the drops fell with a splash into the basin below. then alice wibblewobble cried out! "why, this isn't an enchanted castle at all!" "no?" asked the yellow bird, putting its head on one side, so as to see better. "why, we always call this our enchanted castle; always." "no," answered alice. "it is only a fountain in a stone pile in somebody's flower garden. i've seen one before, near our house." "well, it looks like an enchanted castle," said the bird, "and i'm sure it's just as pretty as one. isn't it as good as your fairy prince?" "well," replied the little duck girl. "i suppose it is. but it's only water, such as i swim in." "oh, do you swim?" asked the bird. "do please show me how. i've always wanted to learn." so, though alice was disappointed about the enchanted castle, she got in the little pond at the foot of the fountain, and swam around. the water spurted up in the air and fell all over her, but she didn't mind that. all the birds gathered around to watch, and even the flowers nodded their heads, they were so delighted. "oh, i'm sure we never can learn to swim," said the yellow bird, as alice went around again. "it is much too difficult." then, all of a sudden, something happened. a boy and a girl came running down the gravel walk to the fountain. the little girl had yellow hair, just like a daffodil, and as soon as she saw alice she cried out: "oh, norman! come quick! here is a lovely duck! i hope we can keep it!" that frightened alice very much, especially as the boy tried to grab her. so she sprang out of the water and ran and hid under some bushes where the children couldn't find her, and as soon as she could, she went back the way she had come, into the pond, and started to swim home. and on the way a fox chased her and a big hawk tried to swoop down, and grab her, but she managed to get away. she was all tired out when she got home, and when jimmie and lulu asked her where she had been she told them all her adventures. "well," said jimmie, when his sister had finished, "i think i would rather see that enchanted castle than the fairy prince again. will you take us there some day, alice?" "perhaps," she said, but before they made that trip something else happened, which you shall hear about to-morrow night if i find a green popcorn ball with a pink ribbon on it. it's a story of a visit to grandpa wibblewobble's house. story xii a visit to grandpa wibblewobble jimmie wibblewobble was playing marbles with bully, the frog, one day. they had just finished one game, and were beginning another when alice wibblewobble came alone. "jimmie," she said, "mamma wants you." "what does she want?" asked her brother. "she wants you to come for a walk in the woods with us. papa is going along. come right away." "aw, i'd rather play with bully," answered jimmie, but just then his mamma called him, and he had to go. bully hopped off, and jimmie and alice walked home together. "come, lulu, are you all ready?" asked mrs. wibblewobble, as she saw her other daughter throwing stones in the pond, and making a great splash. "yes," was the reply, and then jimmie said: "oh, mamma, i don't want to go walking." "i think you will want to when you know where we are going," said his papa. "where are we going?" "to grandpa wibblewobble's." "oh, goody!" cried lulu and jimmie at once, for they always had a nice time at their grandfather's. so the ducks set off through the woods and over the fields, and every time they came to a bit of water they swam over it as fast as a cat can wash her face. pretty soon, after awhile, not very long, they came to the pen where grandpa wibblewobble lived with his daughter, miss weezy wibblewobble, who kept house for him. "ha, i think grandpa has company," said papa wibblewobble, as they came close to the pen and heard talking. "yes, he certainly has." and, sure enough, the old gentleman duck had. and whom do you suppose it was? my uncle wiggily longears, the old gentleman rabbit! "how is your rheumatism?" asked mrs. wibblewobble of uncle wiggily longears, after they had sat down. "oh, it doesn't seem to get any better," he answered. "i have carried a piece of horse chestnut in one ear, and a bit of dried potato in the other for ever so long, but nothing seems to do me any good. i am going to have a new doctor soon if i don't get well. oh my, yes, and some pepper hash on bread and butter also! ha! hum! oh my! ouch! and jack and the bean stalk!" uncle wiggily called out that last because his rheumatism hurt so. well, grandpa wibblewobble gave each of the wibblewobble children some nice sugared corn meal, flavored with sweet flag, peppermint and watercress, and a few snails to eat, and maybe they didn't like them! "now," said grandpa, "you children go out to play, while we old folks talk about the weather and rheumatism," for you see rheumatism was about all uncle wiggily cared to talk about. well, the little duck children had a fine time playing around grandpa's house, and now, in about a minute something is going to happen. they had wandered off a little way, and, just as they were resting under some burdock leaves, in the shade, they heard voices talking. and one voice said: "now i'll go up to the front door of grandpa wibblewobble's house and you go up to the back door. we'll both knock at the same time, and the ducks won't know which door to go to first. then we'll jump in the windows and eat them all up--all up--up! there are some extra fine ducks there to-day." oh, maybe jimmie and his sisters weren't frightened. they trembled so that the leaves shook as if the wind was blowing them, and when jimmie got a little quiet he looked out, and what do you suppose he saw? why two mean, wicked, sly old foxes, who were getting ready to go to grandpa's house and eat him up, and mamma and papa wibblewobble up, and probably uncle wiggily longears, too; who knows? "oh, isn't this awful?" asked alice in a whisper. "i am going to faint! i know i am!" "silly!" said jimmie to her. "don't you dare faint! here, smell of this," and he picked some spearmint, and held it under his sister's nose, which made her feel better. "we must do something," said lulu. "it will never do to have those bad foxes go to grandpa's house! how can we stop them?" "let me think," whispered jimmie, quite bravely, and he put his head under his wing, so he could be quiet and think better. "ah, i have it!" he cried out. "come with me, girls!" so they stepped softly from under the burdock leaves, those three duck children did, and ran to grandpa's house as fast as they could, leaving the bad foxes in the woods. well, you can imagine how surprised all the folks were, even uncle wiggily, when they heard the alarming news which the children told. "oh, whatever shall we do?" cried weezy wibblewobble. "i know what i'd do, if it wasn't for my rheumatism!" said uncle wiggily. "i'd bite those foxes, and jump on them, too, but i can't! oh, if nurse jane fuzzy-wuzzy were only here!" "never mind. i will save you," spoke jimmie. "come now, we must get a lot of stones and some boards. hurry, for the foxes will soon be here." so the ducks, with uncle wiggily helping them as much as he could, put a board over the front door, and one over the back door, just inside the house. then they piled a lot of stones on the boards and fixed them with strings, so that when the cords were pulled the boards would fall down and the stones would also fall, with a clatter on the head of whoever was at the door. well, after all this was done, the ducks and uncle wiggily went and hid in the house. then, in a little while, those bad foxes came sneaking along. and, sure enough, one went to the back door and the other to the front door. they knocked at the same time, just as they had said they would, and papa wibblewobble opened one door and grandpa wibblewobble the other. then just as soon as the doors were opened jimmie, who had hold of the strings that were fast to the boards, pulled them with his bill, and down clattered the stones, rattlety-bang-go-bung-ker-plunk, right on top of the heads of those two bad foxes! oh, how scared they were! "the house is falling! the house is falling! run away!" cried one fox and they both ran as fast as they could, glad enough to escape, i tell you. now, wasn't that a good trick jimmie played on those bad animals? i thought so, myself, and so did his grandpa and his papa and mamma, to say nothing of uncle wiggily longears. and that's how the foxes didn't eat up the ducks, and to-morrow night, if the robin sings under my window as sweetly as he did yesterday morning, you shall hear about how aunt lettie came on a visit. story xiii a visit from aunt lettie one day it was so very pleasant out of doors that lulu and alice and jimmie wibblewobble didn't want to go to school. the sun was sparkling on the water in the duck pond, and alice said, as she felt the wind blowing on her feathers: "oh, i just wish i could go see the fairy prince again!" "pooh! i don't," spoke jimmie. "but i wish we could stay home from school. bully, the frog, and i were going to get up a baseball nine. let's go ask papa if we can stay home." "can't i play on your ball team?" asked lulu, who could throw a stone almost as well as a boy. "no," said jimmie. "girls never play on ball teams." "couldn't i even umpire?" went on his sister. "no, uncle wiggily longears is going to do that," replied jimmie. "billie and johnnie bushytail and sammie littletail are going to play on the team. but let's go ask papa if we can stay home. it's too nice to go to school." so they went and asked mr. wibblewobble, who had remained at home from work that day, because, you see, he happened to swallow a shoe button by mistake for a grain of corn, and he had indigestion something awful; yes, really. you know it was a tan shoe button, and if your eyesight isn't very good, why it does look like a grain of corn, especially if you're very hungry and in a hurry. so mr. wibblewobble wasn't feeling very well when jimmie and lulu came in to ask him if they could stay home from school, and he was the least bit cross, perhaps, because his indigestion was really very bad at that moment. so he answered them: "no, indeed, you can't stay home. go to school at once! quack!" now when a duck says one quack, instead of a double quack-quack, you may know he is feeling very, very miserable, and you don't want to bother him any more than you can help. lulu and jimmie knew this, and they hurried out of the pen to go to school. then their papa felt sorry for them, because, you see, he did not really mean to be cross, only he knew it was best for them to learn all they could. so he said "quack-quack," which meant he was feeling better, and he added: "when you come home, my dears, you may each have a penny. run along now, like good ducks." so, though jimmie felt badly about not being able to get up a ball nine, he waddled along with his sisters, and pretty soon they were at the owl school, where they met sammie and susie littletail and billie and johnnie bushytail, and sister sallie and bully, the frog. yes, they were all there, and, what's more, they had their lessons, too, so they were not kept in. they hurried home after school, alice and lulu and jimmie, i mean, because this story is about them, you see; and they got their pennies from their papa, and each one bought some watercress snails, preserved in salted cornmeal; very fine they were, too, for ducks. just as the three wibblewobble children were finishing the last of the snails, who should come hopping along but bully, the frog. he hopped into the water to cool himself off and then, when he had hopped out again, he asked: "i say, jimmie, are your folks expecting company?" "i don't think so," answered jimmie. "i saw mamma setting the table and she wasn't putting the clean cloth on. no, i guess we're not going to have company, or there'd be a clean cloth put on. why do you ask?" "because, as i was coming through the woods just now i met a funny looking creature asking the way to your pen." "who was it?" inquired lulu. "oh, it was a nice old lady. she had long hair and she carried a basket and she wore such a funny bonnet! two sharp things stuck right out of the top of it. i offered to show her the way here, but she said i went in the water so often that she couldn't follow me, for she didn't want to get her feet wet. you must be going to have company." "maybe we are!" cried alice. "let's go ask mamma." so they went, and asked their mother, but she said she did not know of any company coming, but, for fear some one might come along unexpectedly she did put the clean table cloth on, and she got out the napkins, and opened a jar of preserved sweet flag root. "come on," proposed lulu, after a bit, "let's go through the woods. bully, you show us where you met the queer lady, and maybe we'll see her." so the four started off, bully hopping along in front, and pretty soon, just as they got to the place where the weeping willow tree stands, what should they hear but a funny noise. it sounded like "ma-a-a-a-a!" you know, just like a sheep cries. "there she is!" exclaimed bully. "that's just the way she talks. and there she is! look! the nice old lady!" the three wibblewobble children looked, and what should they see but a big white goat. she was an old lady goat, and she was walking along with her basket on her arm, and the things sticking out of her bonnet were her horns. as soon as she saw the children she called: "oh, my dears, can you show me the way to mrs. wibblewobble's? i'm afraid i'm lost!" "why, mrs. wibblewobble is our mamma," answered lulu, quickly. "oh, my dears! you don't mean it!" cried the goat. "then you must be my little nieces and nephew i've heard so much about. but who is this little green boy? i've seen him before." "oh, he's the catcher on our base ball nine," said jimmie. "he catches the balls in his mouth. but, who are you, if i may be so bold as to ask?" "i'm your aunt lettie," replied the goat. "i've come to pay you a long visit. oh, i'm so glad i found you, for i feared i would never get to your house! see, i have brought you some apple turnovers, and some gooseberry tarts. now let's hurry home, but first kiss me." so aunt lettie kissed them all, even bully, the frog, and then she and the wibblewobble children went to the ducks' pen, where she stayed several days. and quite a number of things happened, too. in fact, one took place the very next day, as you shall hear to-morrow night, when i am going to tell you about lulu and the pussy willows, provided a doggie with a yellow nose and pink ears doesn't scare me. story xiv lulu and the pussy willows "what shall we do now?" asked lulu the next morning after aunt lettie came, and the duck children had gone out to play, leaving their mamma and the old lady goat to do the dishes. "let's go see the fairy prince," suggested alice. "oh, you're always thinking of that fairy prince," objected jimmie. "i say let's go for a walk." "all right," agreed lulu. "i know where there are some nice pussy willows. we'll get some to take to our school teacher next monday." so they started off up the pond to the place where the pussy willows grew. they gathered quite a number, breaking off the stems in their strong yellow bills, and then, putting the willows under their wings, they started back home again. they didn't have to hurry because, you see, it was saturday, and there wasn't any school. oh, my no! ducks don't have to go to school on saturday any more than you do, even if they are only in the kindergarten class. now, if you please, pay close attention, for something is going to happen very shortly, if uncle wiggily longears doesn't come along and bother me, and i don't believe he will. well, lulu and alice and jimmie got safely home with the pussy willows, and as they were putting them in water to keep until monday, aunt lettie came into the room. "what have you there, my dears?" she asked, wiggling her horns and looking over the tops of her glasses as easily as you can draw a picture of a horse. "what have you there, my dears?" "they are pussy willows, aunt lettie," replied lulu. "oh dearie me! oh sacramento!" cried aunt lettie, who was quite excitable at times. "why ever did you bring them here, little ones?" "why, we want them for teacher," explained alice. "i don't," declared jimmie. "boys never bring the teacher flowers; that is unless they don't want to be kept in when there's a ball game. but don't you like pussy willows, aunt lettie?" "oh, no indeed," she answered. "i don't like cats of any description." "but these are only pussy willows," said alice. "oh, they'll turn into cats quickly enough," remarked aunt lettie. "there was a family who once lived next to us, and they had kittens. why it wasn't any time at all before those kittens had turned into cats, and land goodness, how they did howl nights and keep me awake! and i had lumbago that summer, too! oh, yes, indeed, kittens are all very well, but when they turn into old cats they're not so nice." "oh, but aunt lettie, you don't understand," explained jimmie, smiling the least bit. "you see these are only plant pussies. they can't ever become real cats you know." "they grow, don't they?" asked the old lady goat, shaking her horns again, "don't they grow?" "yes," admitted lulu. "they certainly grow." "well, if they're pussies now they'll grow to be cats soon enough, you mark my words," went on aunt lettie quite sorrowfully. "that is unless they drown in that water," she added quickly. "why, no; pussy willows can't drown in water," said lulu. "we put them there to keep them fresh. you don't need to worry about those pussy willows, dear aunt lettie." [illustration] but aunt lettie did worry. in fact she had to worry about something, anyhow, so i suppose it is just as well that she worried about the pussy willows. and, when they all went to bed that night, the last thing she said was: "now, you mark my words! those pussies will be cats before you know it." but lulu and alice and jimmie did not think so. however you just wait and see what happened. along in the middle of the night, when it was all still and quiet, and when even the frogs had stopped croaking, and it wasn't time for the roosters to begin to crow; yes, when it was dark, and still and silent and not a sound was heard, suddenly what should happen but that right in the wibblewobble house there came a loud: "mew! mew! mew!" "there!" exclaimed aunt lettie, jumping out of bed. "what did i tell you? those pussy willows have turned into cats, and the house will be full of them! oh, dear! why did you bring them in here? it's dreadfully bad luck!" lulu and jimmie and alice jumped out of bed, too. so did mr. and mrs. wibblewobble. all the while they kept hearing that: "mew! mew! mew!" "whatever can it be?" asked mamma wibblewobble. "maybe it's a burglar." "nonsense!" replied mr. wibblewobble, "burglars don't mew. i'll go look." so he went to look, and what do you think he found? why, right under a vase of the pussy willows, on a cushion, was a dear, sweet, little white kitten. yes, sir, as true as i'm telling you! and so soon as lulu saw it she cried: "it's mine! one of my pussy willows has turned into a kittie! oh, how glad i am!" and, honestly, the kittie was right under lulu's vase of pussy willows, just as sure as that two and two make four. "i told you so!" cried aunt lettie. "now, maybe you'll believe me next time. the pussy willows turned into a kitten." "oh, but this kitten can't be from those willows," said papa wibblewobble. "this is a real pussy. it must have come in from out of doors. i guess i must have left a window open." and the funny part of it was that he had left a window up, and it was a real kittie that had wandered in, straying away from its mamma. but aunt lettie was sure it had come from a pussy willow. lulu didn't care, because she was allowed to keep the kittie for herself, and what do you think? why that kittie joined jimmie's baseball nine, and to-morrow night i'll tell you about a game of ball that was played. that is if the man in the moon doesn't tumble down and hurt his nose. story xv playing a ball game one day jimmie wibblewobble was going over to where bully, the frog, lived. "come on!" cried the little boy duck, to the frog. "let's get up a ball game. we'll find johnnie and billie bushytail, and sammie littletail, and have some fun. have you seen uncle wiggily longears? he will umpire for us, i know, and tell who's out, and when the balls go straight, and all that. have you seen him?" "i saw him limping along a while ago," answered bully. "he can't have gone very far, for his rheumatism is bad again." "let's hurry up and catch him," suggested jimmie. so they ran on through the woods as fast as they could and, sure enough, they soon saw the old gentleman rabbit. "will you come to our ball game?" asked jimmie. "why, of course, to be sure," answered uncle wiggily. "but i can't play very well, you know, on account of--oh my! ouch! oh dear! um um! present arms! ready! aim! fire! oh! oh! oh!" that's the way he cried all of a sudden. "what's the matter?" asked jimmie. "matter? why my rheumatism; that's what's the matter! it does seem to catch me at the wrong time. i'm afraid i won't be able to play ball to-day after all, boys. i'm sorry, but--oh dear! there it goes again!" and that poor, old gentleman rabbit had to lean on his crutch, because his legs hurt him so. "oh, we only want you to look on, and tell us when the game is going all right," said jimmie very kindly. "you can have a seat in the shade, and you will decide who's out, and who makes a run, and which side wins." "well, i might manage that," replied uncle wiggily. "come on, but please walk very slowly." so they walked on very slowly, and pretty soon they met johnnie and billie bushytail with sister sallie. and the little girl squirrel was singing: "hippity-hop to the barber shop to buy a lolly-pop-lally. one for me and one for thee and one for sister sallie." "come on, let's play ball," called jimmie to johnnie and billie. the bushytail brothers said they would, and on they all went, through the woods and over the fields, and pretty soon, oh, maybe in about two quacks and a half, whom should they meet but sammie and susie littletail. sammie said he would play ball, and susie said she would look on. then along came lulu and alice wibblewobble, and lulu had her white kittie with her. "my kittie ought to play, as long as i can't play, especially as she knew how to roll a ball," spoke lulu. so jimmie said the kittie could very nicely with her paws. "but that's all the girls who are going to be on the team," said jimmie very decidedly. well, they started to play, and they had an old wooden door knob for a ball. i just wish you could have seen them, honestly i do. it was as good as going to a show, where they charge five pins to get in. bully, the frog, was the catcher, for all he had to do was to open his large mouth, and the ball would go right in. uncle wiggily was a sort of judge, or umpire. that is, he sat in the shade, on a pile of soft leaves, and told when it was right for one of the players to give up the bat, and let some one else have a chance. now whom do you suppose threw the ball? why, johnnie bushytail. and billie was on first base, while jimmie wibblewobble had the bat, which was a piece of hickory stick. he was to hit the ball and sammie littletail and the white kittie, whose name was sadie, were to chase it. oh, what fun they had! jimmie knocked the ball as hard as he could, and then he ran, and sadie and sammie tried to put him out, that is to tag him with the ball, for that's the way they played. then it came bully's turn to bat, while johnnie bushytail caught, and then you should have seen how cutely sadie, the kittie, would roll the ball along to first base whenever any one hit it. and as for billie bushytail, when it was his turn, he knocked a ball away over in the field, and lulu ran after it, even if she wasn't supposed to play. she threw it back too, and then she went and sat down with alice and susie and sister sallie. uncle wiggily did fine at umpiring, and he was as kind and good as could be, so no one found fault with what he said, even when he had to rub his leg that had rheumatism in it. but something dreadful happened. i've got to tell about it, or else it wouldn't be fair, and we must always be honest and fair in this world, no matter whether we want to or not. it was jimmie's turn at the bat again. he hit the ball very hard. away it sailed, over the fence and across the field, and then, oh, don't breathe or wiggle for a few seconds now! then, if that ball didn't smash, bang, crash right into the window of grandfather goosey-gander's house! yes, sir, it broke the window all to flinders, and out rushed grandfather goosey-gander! oh, but he was angry! he quacked, and he squawked, and he called out: "who broke my window?" "i--i did, please sir," answered jimmie. "but i didn't mean to. it was an accident." "ha, hum! an accident, eh? well, you'll have to pay for it," said grandfather goosey-gander. "yes, that's what you will!" "oh we'll all chip in and pay for it," said bully, quickly. "that's what we always do in a ball game when a window is broken. i'll pay my share." "ha! hum!" cried grandfather goosey-gander, and then he sneezed, for he had run out without his cap on and he was bald headed. so they all agreed to pay for the window, and even sister sallie said she would help. but they didn't have to. no, sir, as true as i'm telling you, if aunt lettie didn't happen along just then, and, when she heard what the matter was, she just took out her purse and said: "i'll pay for the window which jimmie broke. i am rich, and i'll never miss the money. boys and girls must have some fun." "fine!" cried uncle wiggily. "i'm the umpire and i say that's just fine." now, wasn't that kind of aunt lettie? well, i guess so! then the game went on, and billie and johnnie bushytail won, but no more windows were broken. now, if we don't get an april shower to-morrow, you shall hear, in the next story, to-morrow night, about how the duck's pen caught fire, and who put it out. story xvi the wibblewobble home on fire after the ball game, which i told you about last night, all the players, and those who had looked on, and uncle wiggily, the umpire, started for home. on the way they talked of how kind aunt lettie was. "she's the kindest person i have ever known," said uncle wiggily, as he limped along on his crutch that nurse jane fuzzy-wuzzy had gnawed out of a cornstalk for him. "she is very--oh dear! oh me! oh my! oh disproportionability! wow! ouch! my rheumatism again!" and it hurt him so he had to stand still and waggle his ears as hard as ever he could. then he felt better, especially after he had rubbed a horse chestnut on his sore leg. you see the rheumatism which was cured by a red fairy, as i told you about in the first book, came back because uncle wiggily got his feet wet going out one day without his umbrella. of course papa and mamma wibblewobble were much surprised to hear about the ball game, and the broken window, but they didn't scold jimmie very much, and pretty soon, oh, in a little while after supper, you know, it was bedtime for the duck children and they went to bed. well, it got darker and darker, and soon it was nice and quiet around the pond where the ducks lived. only the frogs seemed to be awake, and they were croaking away in the water. and pretty soon lulu and alice were dreaming and so was jimmie, and the funny part of it is that they all dreamed different things. pretty soon it got even darker, and then up popped the silvery moon, and it wasn't quite so dark. but it was more quiet. oh my, yes! it was so quiet that i believe if a feather had fallen off a duck's back it would have made a noise when it struck the ground. oh, it was very quiet. then, all of a sudden jimmie awakened. he sniffed and he snuffed, and he smelled smoke. so he got up and he called to lulu and alice in the next room: "say, don't you smell smoke?" "yes," said alice, "i do." "maybe it's grandfather goosey-gander smoking his pipe," suggested lulu. "no, he doesn't smoke as late as this," said jimmie. then the smell of smoke got stronger, and, in about as long as it would take you to count one and a half, what should happen but that the whole duckhouse was suddenly lighted up. then there came a crackling, roaring sound, and papa and mamma wibblewobble jumped up. "oh, dear! it's burglars! i know it's burglars!" cried mrs. wibblewobble. "quack real loud, leander" (you see mr. wibblewobble's name was leander). "quack real loud, and call the police!" so mr. leander wibblewobble quacked as loudly as he could, and just then aunt lettie jumped out of bed. "oh dear! oh dear! oh dear!" she cried, three times, just like that. "the house is on fire! the house is burning up! run! jump, everybody!" and, sure enough, the ducks' house was on fire, and it wasn't a burglar at all; no sir! whether the moon was so hot that it caused the fire, or whether it was sparks from grandfather's pipe, i can't say, but anyhow, the house was on fire, and it was burning fiercely. "oh dear! oh dear!" cried aunt lettie again. and mamma wibblewobble cried just the same, too. then they all ran and jumped out of the second-story window, but it didn't hurt them, for they could fly a little bit, you know, and they came down like balloons. that is all but aunt lettie, and she was used to jumping, so she came down like a lot of dishes falling off the table. well, you should have seen that house burn! oh, it was a dreadful sight. all the other ducks and the geese and the chickens gathered around. the rooster crowed the alarm. box number twenty-one it was, but of course there were no engines to come and put out the fire. "oh, we must save the house!" shouted papa wibblewobble. "everybody bring water from the pond and throw it on the fire!" cried aunt lettie, and she ran down and filled her two horns, which she carried on her head. the horns were hollow and had the tops sawed off, so she could fill them quickly and pour out the water just as easily. she splashed some water on the fire, but it didn't do much good. then lulu and alice and jimmie, they filled their bills with water and threw it on the blaze, but that didn't do much good. no, sad to tell, all the water the ducks and the geese and aunt lettie could carry, to say nothing of the rooster who couldn't bring much, because he stopped to crow every now and then--all this water didn't do a bit of good, and the house was burning faster and faster. then, what do you think happened? why, all at once there came running up old nero, the big, shaggy, yellow dog, who was so old and kind that he would never hurt any one. yes, he ran right up and called out: "make way, if you please. i will put out that fire!" so he ran down into the pond as fast as he could run and soaked himself in the water. then he ran up close to the fire and shook himself hard, and the drops of water scattered from his shaggy sides all over the blaze, just like a rain storm. and the fire was partly out. then he ran down again and got all wet and shook himself, and scattered some more water over the fire. and that fire was pretty nearly out. then for the third time that dog, nero, ran down into the water and got all soaking wet, and scattered the drops over the blaze, like two showers and a half. and then that fire was all completely out! oh, wasn't he a good dog, though? well, the house wasn't burned so much after all, and the ducks could go back into it. and maybe they weren't thankful to nero, but he only said: "ah, you should have watched me gnaw bones when i was a young dog. that was a sight worth seeing." but i think it was great for him to put out the fire, don't you? now, to-morrow night's story, providing my automobile doesn't hit a balloon, will be about how the fairy prince was caught. story xvii how the fairy prince was caught aunt lettie, the nice old lady goat, wanted lulu and alice and jimmie to have a good time, so one day she fixed them up a basket of lunch to take off in the woods and eat. she made some jam tarts--oh, such lovely, flaky ones!--and there were cookies and bread and butter and i don't know what all. i just wish i had that basket of lunch now, don't you? but, of course, we wouldn't want to take it away from the duck children, would we? so they started off, and as they passed by nero, he opened one eye--only one, mind you, and looked at them. and he said: "i am feeling a little hungry, but i don't s'pose you have anything for me." "yes," said lulu, "you may have a jam tart because you saved our house from burning up." so they gave nero one tart, and he gobbled it up as quickly as you can cross your "t" or dot your "i" when you're writing in school. pretty soon, well, not so very long, you know, the three duck children came to the woods. oh, the woods were the nicest place you ever saw! there was a little brook running in and out among the trees, and it sounded like music when it went over the stones. well, they sat down on the grass, near a mossy old stump, and ate their lunch, until there wasn't even so much as a crumb of a jam tart left. they had just gotten through when, all of a sudden, they heard a big noise. it was like some one stamping his feet down and breaking sticks. the duck children were terribly frightened, for they thought maybe it was an elephant or a rhinoceros coming along, but jimmie peeked through the bushes and whispered to his sisters: "it's a big boy!" "what's he doing?" asked alice. "i guess he's going fishing," said lulu, "for he has a fish pole over his shoulder." and, sure enough, that boy was going fishing! he walked on a little farther, stepping on sticks and breaking them, and then he sat down on the edge of the little brook and began to fish. then the duck children weren't so much afraid, and they watched him. pretty soon the boy pulled up his line with a jerk, but there wasn't anything on it. then he said: "oh, dear! that was a big fish, but he got away." "i'm glad it got away," whispered alice, "for i don't like to see the poor fish caught." then, in about two quacks and a waddle, the boy pulled up his pole again, and this time he didn't have anything on the hook, either. so he said again: "oh, dear me, and an angle worm! that's two big fish that have gotten loose." then he threw in his line again, and the next time when he pulled it up something came with it. something wiggily, and black and yellow and red-spotted with wrinkly legs and a long snaky neck and head. "ker-thump!" it landed on the bank and the boy ran up to it. "why, i've caught a mud turtle!" he cried. "i am not!" the mud turtle called out, only he couldn't speak very plainly, for the hook was in his mouth. "i'm a fairy prince, and you had no right to catch me," he said. now, of course, the boy couldn't hear this, for he didn't understand the language used by the fairy prince. but alice heard him, and so did lulu and jimmie. "oh, dear!" cried alice. "that bad boy has caught the fairy prince! let's run out and make him let the prince go!" "oh, no!" answered lulu, "the boy might catch us then." "i know what let's do," whispered jimmie. "we'll get in the bushes right behind that boy, and quack and squawk as loud as we can: that will scare him and make him run away. i don't believe the mud turtle is fairy prince, but i don't want to see him hurt. come on, girls. now when i say: 'ready,' quack real loud." so the three duck children went softly up to a bush right behind where that fisherman--i mean fisherboy--was sitting. all this while the fairy prince was talking to the boy, and asking to be let go, for the hook hurt him. the boy finally did take the hook out, not hurting the mud-turtle any more than he could help, for he was not a bad boy. then, in an instant, or maybe in an instant and a half, jimmie cried, "ready!" and he and his sisters quacked as loudly as possible, or even louder. the boy was just going to put the mud turtle into the basket, but when he heard the quacking, coming right out of the bushes behind him, he was so frightened that he dropped the fairy prince on the ground. and the fairy prince crawled off as fast as he could, let me tell you. then the boy saw that it was the duck children who had frightened him, and he laughed; but they didn't care, not a bit. then the boy said: "oh, i guess there is no good fishing here. i'm going to try a new place," so he walked away. then alice went right up to the mud turtle and said: "o fairy prince, art thou much hurt?" "i am hurt considerable," said the mud turtle. "i am hurt in two ways. my mouth hurts where the hook went in, and my feelings are hurt because the boy didn't believe i was a fairy prince." "well, if you are a fairy prince," asked jimmie, "why didn't you turn him into an elephant or a lion and scare him, or why didn't you change him into a bug or a mosquito, so he could fly away? why didn't you do that, eh?" "there are several reasons," replied the mud turtle. "oh, wilt thou tell them to us?" asked alice, romantically. "not now," replied the fairy prince, "but i will later. return here to-morrow and i will tell you," and he stretched first one wrinkly leg, and then the other, and went to sleep. "we will return," said alice, and then the duck children hurried home, and to-morrow night you shall hear about a magic trick and why the fairy prince didn't turn that boy into an elephant or a lion. that is, if the thanksgiving turkey doesn't go to a football game. story xviii the fairy prince does a magic trick one day, after they had been out roller skating, lulu and alice and jimmie wibblewobble suddenly remembered that it was time they went back to the woods to meet the fairy prince, who was to tell them why he didn't turn that fisher-boy into a lion or an elephant. so they took off their skates and hurried to the place, and by and by, after awhile, not so very long, they got there. then they stopped and looked around. "hu!" exclaimed jimmie. "he isn't here. i _thought_ he was fooling us." "hush!" begged alice. "he may be only hiding to test us, to see if we really believe in him. he may appear any moment in a big balloon or on the back of a great bird." "somebody's coming now," said lulu, suddenly, for she heard a rustling in the bushes. they all turned around, and whom do you think they saw coming right out of the woods? why, uncle wiggily longears! the old gentleman rabbit was limping along, making his nose go up and down and sideways at the same time, the way you have seen all the bunnies do, you know. "ha! ha!" he exclaimed. "what have we here? why, i do declare! if it isn't jimmie wibblewobble and his sisters! what are you doing here, little ones?" "we came here to meet the fairy prince," replied jimmie. "he was going to tell us about why he didn't change a boy into an elephant. but he isn't here." "who--the fairy prince, the boy or the elephant?" asked uncle wiggily, gently rubbing a horse chestnut on his left hind leg, that had the worst rheumatism in it. "neither one," said alice, "but the fairy prince is sure to come." "stuff and nonsense. nonsense and stuff, also snuff and red pepper!" cried uncle wiggily. "fairy prince indeed! there's no such thing!" "oh, yes, there is!" said alice. "pray do not speak so loudly. he might hear you." "thank you, my dear, for trusting in me!" exclaimed a voice suddenly, and honestly, you may not believe me, but if there wasn't that mud turtle! yes, sir, as true as i'm telling you, he appeared right from behind a bush! "thank you, my dear, for believing me," said the fairy prince to alice again. "as for this--ahem!--this person!" and the mud turtle looked very severely at uncle wiggily, very severely indeed, "as for this person, i will soon show him! oh, my, yes! and a tortoiseshell comb in addition," he said; and then the turtle stuck out its long neck, straight at the old rabbit, until uncle wiggily thought it was a snake. "fairy prince, we salute thee!" exclaimed alice, making a low bow. "good, very good," remarked the mud turtle. "i believe i promised you i would tell you why i did not change the boy, who caught me, into something strange, say an elephant or a lion." "yes," replied jimmie, "you did promise us. go ahead, please." "that's not the way to talk to a fairy prince," objected alice. "you should speak more politely." "never mind him, he doesn't know any better," went on the mud turtle. "i will now give you my reasons. in the first place i did not want to scare that boy after the way you frightened him. he had been punished enough, i thought. besides, if i had turned him into a lion or an elephant he would have run through the woods, scaring every one he met, and that would not have been right. and the reason i didn't change him into a bug or a mosquito was because he might fly away, and then, when the magic spell had passed off, and he was changed back into a boy again, the transformation might have happened in the air, and he would fall right down on somebody's head, and that would never do, never, never, not in a year and a half. so i concluded not to do anything to him." "i don't believe you could have changed him into anything at all," said uncle wiggily, quite boldly. "i don't even believe you are a fairy prince." "there it goes again!" cried the mud turtle, and he wept big tears that made a little puddle of water. "very few persons do believe in me. but i assure you i am a fairy prince," he added, "and, what's more, all i would have had to say to that boy was 'oskaluluhinniumhaddy,' and he would have been turned into anything i liked. but i see you still do not believe me--that is, all but alice. so i will just do a magic trick for you. return here in an hour, and in this very spot you shall find a round stone. take a rock and break open the stone and you will see what happens." so the wibblewobble children and uncle wiggily went away, wondering what was going to happen. they came back in an hour, and, sure enough, right where the mud turtle had been standing was a large, round stone. "wonderful!" cried alice. "let's see what's inside," suggested jimmie. so he and uncle wiggily took up a rock, and hit that stone once, and they hit it twice, and they hit it three times, and, at the third blow, if that stone didn't break open, and out stepped the mud turtle fairy prince! he was right inside that stone! now, wasn't that a magic trick? i think so, anyhow. "oh, tell us how you did it!" begged lulu. "it was very simple, very simple," said the turtle, as he flicked a bit of mud off his nose. "you see, i just rolled myself up in some soft clay, and then made it round like a stone. then i stayed in the sun until it was baked as hard as a rock, and then i rolled along here to wait for you. very simple, indeed. but, now, do you believe i am a fairy prince?" and they all declared they did, even uncle wiggily, and alice said three times: "we salute thee, fairy prince." oh, it was as good as a play! well, now, let's see about to-morrow night. how about a story of the rat who took the eggs? do you think you would like that? very well, then, you shall hear it, providing my golden slipper doesn't fall off. story xix the rats who took the eggs nothing had happened at the wibblewobble house in several days, and jimmie and lulu and alice were beginning to feel that it was about time they went off on another picnic, or else tried to find the fairy prince again. but, one day, just as jimmie was looking for his baseball and his catching glove, his mamma came out of the pantry, where she had gone to get some dishes to set the table. "did any of you children take my eggs?" she asked, and she looked very severely at them. "what? are the eggs gone?" asked aunt lettie, the old lady goat. "yes," said mamma wibblewobble, "there were just thirteen eggs, and now there are only ten. three have been taken, and i hope lulu and alice and jimmie didn't touch them." "oh, no indeed, mamma," spoke alice very quickly, as she finished tying a sky-blue-pink ribbon around her neck. "i never touched them." "neither did i," added lulu. "nor me," said jimmie. "i don't like eggs anyhow." "i was saving them to hatch more little ducklings out of," went on mamma wibblewobble, in sorrowful tones. "now i shall have to wait. oh, it's such a disappointment to me!" "maybe they fell off the shelf," suggested jimmie. "no," replied his mother. "if they had fallen from the shelf out of the basket, where i had them, the eggs would have broken, and made a mark on the floor," and, of course, you know they would, for when an egg breaks on the floor it makes a splish and a splash and a big yellow and white spot that you can't help but see; now, doesn't it? so mamma wibblewobble knew the eggs couldn't have fallen. "well," remarked aunt lettie, "it's very strange. perhaps they have been stolen. you should notify the police." "or tell mr. cock a. doodle, the rooster," added jimmie. "he would crow over it; and if we offered a reward, maybe we would get the eggs back." "well, i'm glad you children didn't take them, at all events," said their mother. "run along and play now. aunt lettie has made some molasses cookies, with corn meal and raisins on top, and you may have some of them." so lulu and alice and jimmie went out to play, but all the while they were thinking of the missing eggs. it was very strange. their mamma and aunt lettie hunted all over the duck pen for them, but the eggs couldn't be found, any more than you can find a penny after you drop it down a crack in the board walk. well, when papa wibblewobble came home, he was told about the three missing eggs. he was much surprised, but he said at once: "why, a burglar has taken them; that's what! i remember now i heard a suspicious noise last night. it was some one sneezing. that was the burglar taking the eggs. i thought of getting up and going down to catch him, but i was too sleepy, so i stayed in bed." "no, it wasn't a burglar who sneezed," said aunt lettie. "it was i. i left my window open, and i caught a little cold." "then who did sneeze and take the eggs?" asked papa wibblewobble. but no one could tell him, and it was more mysterious and wonderful than ever, yes indeed. not a trace of those eggs could be found, and mamma wibblewobble felt terribly. [illustration] well, that night jimmie thought of a plan. he decided he would catch the bad burglar, or whoever it was that had taken the eggs, for the little boy duck thought if they took three eggs they would come back for more. "i'm going to hide in the pantry to-night," he said to lulu and alice, "and when the burglar comes i'm going to grab him." "won't you be afraid?" asked alice, shivering. "afraid? humph! i guess not," replied her brother. so that night, after every one had gone to bed, and it was all still and quiet in the house, and aunt lettie was snoring the least little bit, jimmie crawled softly out of bed. oh, so softly, and went and hid in the pantry. it was dark, so he took a candle and was all ready to light it whenever he heard a sound. well, he had to wait quite some time, and it was getting pretty lonesome, and he was beginning to feel sleepy when, all of a sudden, he heard a noise! then he heard another noise, and then a scratching and a squeaking. then he lighted the candle as quickly as he could, and what do you suppose he saw? why, two great big rats, no relation to good, kind nurse jane fuzzy-wuzzy, the muskrat, oh, not at all, but two other bad rats! well, as true as i'm telling you, if one rat didn't climb up on the shelf, where the duck eggs were in the basket, and take one up in his paws; and then what do you suppose he did? why, he went to the edge of the shelf and dropped the egg to the rat on the floor below. then the rat on the floor caught it and lay down on his back, and hugged the egg in his four paws, and the rat on the shelf ran down and got hold of the tail of the rat that had the egg and began pulling him along the floor, just as if he were a little wagon or sled with an egg on it. all this jimmie saw, and he cried out: "oh, you bad rats, you, to steal my mamma's eggs!" well, you should have seen how frightened those rats were at that! one dropped the egg out of his paws and ran away, and the other followed. oh, but they were frightened, though! and wasn't jimmie brave to hide in the pantry and discover them? so that's how the first three eggs were taken, but no more were, for papa wibblewobble stopped up the rat hole. and that's the end of this story. the one to-morrow night will be about how jimmie tried to stand on his head, that is, if the pussy cat doesn't go to sleep in the milk bottle. story xx how jimmie stood on his head jimmie wibblewobble was quite a hero after he had found out about the rats taking the eggs, and every time he walked in the chicken yard the old rooster would crow and say: "there goes jimmie, the boy who scared the rats." but do you s'pose jimmie was proud? not a bit of it. he was just as nice as ever, and lulu and alice thought a lot of him, let me tell you. well, one day, bully, the frog, came over to play with jimmie. they tossed a baseball around, bully catching it in his mouth. all of a sudden the frog boy cried out: "oh, my, i'm so warm, i think i'll jump in the pond and cool off." so he jumped into the pond just as easily as butter melts on a hot stove, and when he came up he felt better. then he said to jimmie: "why don't you dive down under the water the way i do? it's lots of fun." "i would," answered jimmie, "only i can't stay under water as you do. i have to float on top. i can put my head under, to dig in the mud for snails and sweet, spicy weeds, but i can't get my whole body under." "i know how you could do it," went on bully. "how?" asked jimmie, and he wobbled his tail so fast you could hardly see it move. "tie a stone around your neck," went on bully. that will make you sink under water, and you can then dive as good as i can. come on, we'll have some fun." "oh, don't you do it, jimmie!" cried lulu, who came along just then with alice. "maybe you can't get the stone loose, and you'll be drowned!" "oh, i guess not," answered jimmie. "i can stay under water a long time. i want to see how it feels to dive in--ker plunk!--like a frog." "i'm going to tell mamma," cried alice. "tattle-tale! tattle-tale!" called jimmie. "i never tell on you!" "well, then, i won't tell," said alice, "but lulu and i will stay close by, so if you can't get the stone off we can help you." "well, that's kind of you," spoke her brother, "but i'll be all right. you will see me stand on my head, just like bully does, and dive under the water." so he got a stone and a piece of long grass for a string, and bully tied the stone around jimmie's neck. now, this was a very risky thing to do, but, you see, jimmie didn't know any better. neither did bully. but you just wait and see what happens. i'm coming to it very shortly now. pretty soon the stone was tied on good and tight, and then jimmie and bully stood on the edge of the pond. "are you all ready?" asked bully. "yep," replied jimmie, and he stretched out his neck, for it felt funny to have a stone tied around it. oh, how foolish some ducks are; now, aren't they, honestly? "all ready," went on bully. "one for the money, two for a show, three to make ready and four to go!" and he yelled the "four" real loudly. then they jumped in, jimmie and bully, ker-splash, ker-splosh, ker-splish, ker-thump! oh what a lot of water they scattered about, wetting lulu and alice, but the girl ducks didn't mind it. of course, bully went right to the bottom, and so did jimmie, too. his head went right down in the mud, the way lulu's did that terrible day i told you about once. and poor jimmie's yellow feet were right up in the air, and that's where a duck's feet ought never to be. oh my, no! and some shingle nails besides. well, jimmie tried to swim along under water, as he saw bully doing, but he couldn't. no, sir, not the least bit. you see the stone was too heavy, and it held him down. besides, his feet were out of the water, and as a duck has to have his feet in water to swim with, of course, jimmie couldn't move along at all. there he was, held down under water, and all the while his breath was getting shorter and shorter, and he kept feeling worse and worse, and he wished he had taken lulu's advice and not tried to stand on his head and dive. well, naturally, when jimmie didn't come up in some time, lulu and alice got worried. bully popped up, after swimming across the pond under water and out of sight, and they asked him what had become of jimmie. "i'll go look," he said, and when he dived down, and came back, he was pale green instead of dark green as he usually was. you see he turned pale green because he was so frightened. "oh, dear!" cried bully. "jimmie is held fast down there by the stone on his neck, and can't get up." "can't you bite the stone loose?" asked alice. then bully tried, but he couldn't, and lulu and alice tried, but they couldn't. and there wasn't any one else around to help, and it began to look pretty bad for poor jimmie. and then, just as he surely thought he would never see his papa, and mamma, and sisters, and aunt lettie again, who should come walking along the bottom of the pond but the mud turtle fairy prince. he saw right away what the matter was, and it didn't take him a second, with his sharp jaws, to bite through the grass that held, the stone around jimmie's neck, and up popped the little boy duck! his life had been saved just in time, let me tell you! and oh, how thankful alice and lulu were, to say nothing of jimmie; and how they thanked the fairy prince. "maybe you will believe that i am a fairy now," said the mud turtle to jimmie, and jimmie said he would. he also said he would never stand on his head again, with a stone tied around his neck, and i'm glad to say he never did. now, in case i should see a sky-blue-pink-green rose in blossom to-morrow i'll tell you a story about lulu, and how aunt lettie did her a great favor. story xxi lulu and aunt lettie lulu wibblewobble was walking in the deep, dark woods, and, what is more, she was all alone. yes, and she wasn't afraid. you see, jimmie had gone off with the boys in the lots back of the duck pond to play ball, and alice had gone shopping with her mamma. lulu could have gone, too, only felt she would rather go walking in the woods, so she went. at first it was very pleasant with the birds singing in the trees, and the wind blowing through the leaves, and making music, and lulu liked it very much. she found some fine eel grass in a little brook, and she was eating the green stems, and thinking how nice it was, when all at once she heard a funny noise. it was just like when a great, big door swings on rusty hinges. lulu stopped eating eel grass at once, and she called right out loud: "my goodness! what's that?" then it was all still, and quiet; as quiet, you know, as when a little mouse walks along, and doesn't want any one to hear him, going after the crackers and cheese, and maybe the jam tarts, too; who knows? well, it was just as still and quiet as it could be, when all of a sudden the noise came again. "oh, dear!" cried lulu. "i believe i'm going to be frightened. i wish jimmie was here!" but jimmie, the brave boy duck, was a long way off, playing ball with bully, the frog, and his other friends, though he would have come at once to help his sister if he had known what a dreadful thing was almost going to happen to her. well, as i said, the noise sounded again, and then, when lulu looked right at a tree, what should she see but something big and bushy, waving in the wind. "oh, maybe it's johnnie and billie bushytail, and perhaps sister sallie is with them!" she said, aloud, and she didn't feel quite so frightened. then that terrible noise came again, and the bushy thing got bigger, and lulu saw that it was the tail of a great, big black dog. oh, such a big black dog as it was! and he was growling, and that's what made the sound like a big door creaking on big, rusty hinges. the dog came out from behind the tree, and he stared right in the face of lulu, as bold as bold could be. "who are you?" growled the dog. "if--if you please, kind sir, i'm lulu," she answered. "bur-r-r-r!" growled the dog. "i'm not a kind sir at all. i'm a bad dog! bur-r-r-r! bur-r-r-r! what's your last name? bur-r-r-r!" "my last name is wibblewobble, bad dog," she replied. "bur-r-r-r! what are you calling me names for?" he asked, and he showed his teeth something frightful, yes, indeed! now cuddle up close to me if you want to, and you won't be a bit afraid, because, in a few minutes lulu is going to be saved in a wonderful way. just you wait and see. "why do you call me names?" asked the dog again. "i--i--if you please," said lulu, "i thought you said your name was bad dog, sir." "bur-r-r-r!" cried the dog. "i didn't at all. no matter what my name is. i am a bad dog, however, and i'm proud of it!" oh, wasn't he the bold, ugly dog, though? then he looked at lulu some more, and growled even louder, and he asked her: "what are you, a chicken or a turkey?" "neither," replied lulu, "i'm a duck, if you please." "ha!" exclaimed the bad dog. "a duck! the very idea! of all things i love ducks! i just dote on 'em! i love 'em just like you love jam tarts, i expect. but why aren't you larger, lulu? i like big ducks." "oh!" cried the little duck girl, "are you going to eat me up?" "yes," replied the dog, "i am." "then," went on lulu, very bravely, for she was trying to think of a way to get out of the deep, dark woods, "if you will wait a year or two, i will be larger." "no," said the dog. "i can't wait. i'm in a hurry. i must have you now." then he growled some more, and rushed right at lulu, and i suppose he would have eaten her up, feathers and all, only for what happened. now, what do you suppose prevented him? why, just as he was about to grab the little duck girl there was a crashing and a smashing in the bushes and who should appear but dear aunt lettie, the old lady goat! as soon as she laid eyes on that dog she knew what he was going to do, and without speaking a word, she rushed right at him and lowered her horns. now, it's a good thing for that dog that the sharp ends of aunt lettie's horns had been sawed off. so, you see, when she stuck them in that dog's ribs, they only tickled him and he had to laugh, instead of sticking right through him. oh, how hard he laughed! but he didn't want to, not a bit. then aunt lettie just lowered her head, and then she raised it up, and over her back that bad dog went, right up in the air, and he was tossed in some briars and brambles that scratched him well. but he wasn't satisfied yet, and he rushed back at lulu, but aunt lettie tickled him in the ribs again, and he laughed: "ha! ho!" though he didn't want to at all, and over into the briars and brambles he was tossed once more. then he had had enough, and he ran off, howling instead of laughing, and that's the way it was that aunt lettie saved lulu. you see the old lady goat happened to be walking in the woods, when she heard the dog growl and she ran up just in time. then she went home with lulu, and jimmie said if he ever saw that dog he would throw a stone at him, and i wouldn't blame him, would you? now to-morrow night i think the story is going to be about how alice cut her foot, and what happened after it. but i can't tell it unless i happen to see a grasshopper standing on his head and eating jam tarts. story xxii how alice cut her foot did you ever go barefooted in the summer time? i suppose you have, and i don't blame you a bit, especially on hot days, or when you are at asbury park or ocean grove. now, to go barefooted, you know, you have to take off your shoes and stockings, and that's quite a bother at times. well, alice wibblewobble didn't have to do this when she wanted to go barefooted, for, you know, she never wore shoes and stockings in summer. you see it would be too much trouble to take them off every time she went in swimming with lulu and jimmie, so that's why it was arranged that she never had to wear any. now it happened one day, oh, i guess it must have been about a week and a minute after lulu had been frightened by that big dog, that alice was going to the store for her mother. the store was kept by mr. drake, who had a little round door knob on the top of his head, so his hat wouldn't blow off in windy weather. "bring me a pound of butter and some cornmeal, alice," her mother had said to her, "and be sure the cornmeal is fresh. i am going to fry some for your father's supper." so alice said she would be sure about it, and she started off. "want me to come, alice?" asked lulu. "no, dear," replied her sister. "i think it is too hot for you to-day. i'll soon be back again." "better take jimmie," went on lulu. "you may meet the bad dog or an ugly fox." "no," spoke alice again, "i think i'll go alone. besides, jimmie is off with sammie littletail, playing leapfrog. i'll go alone." so off she went. now i'm going to tell you why she wanted to go alone, but don't whisper it to any one. you see, alice thought maybe she might meet the fairy prince, for she still hoped that some day he would change into a king with a golden diamond crown on his head. but, as she walked on toward mr. drake's store she saw nothing of the fairy prince, though she kept a sharp lookout. well, she got the pound of butter and the cornmeal, and to make sure it was fresh she ate a little, for that's the surest way to tell. then she started for home, with the butter under one wing and the cornmeal under the other. well, all of a sudden, just as she got past the weeping willow tree, if she didn't step on a sharp stone and cut her foot, because, you see, she had no shoes on, and the stone was very, very sharp, almost as sharp as an exclamation point; yes, indeed! there, i had the printer put one in (!) so you could see how very sharp it is. always be careful of exclamation points, children. "oh! oh! oh!" cried alice, as she felt the sharp stone go in her foot, and she had to sink down to the ground, it hurt her so. then the cornmeal fell from under her wing and the bag burst and it spilled all over. then the butter fell from under the other wing, but that didn't get hurt any. it only got some dents in it, and you know that doesn't matter, for butter. "oh, dear! whatever shall i do?" cried alice again. "i--i can't walk on my sore foot, and i can't carry the cornmeal and the butter! oh, dear! oh, dear! my foot's bleeding, too!" and, sure enough it was. poor alice! how sorry i feel for her. "ah, if only the fairy prince would appear now," she went on. "he would cause a golden chariot to take me home!" you see, alice hadn't gotten over being romantic, even if she had cut her foot. oh, my, no, and a diamond earring besides! well, as true as i'm telling you, no sooner had she made that wish about the fairy prince than a voice called out: "who is crying? does any one need help?" "yes," replied alice, "i do. i've cut my foot, and i've dented the butter in several places, but that doesn't matter much, and i've spilled the cornmeal." "oh, what a lot of troubles for one poor little duck girl!" cried the voice again. "perhaps, i can help you," and who should come along but uncle wiggily longears, the nice old gentleman rabbit. "let us see what's the trouble," he went on, and he put his strongest spectacles over his nose and he looked at the cut in alice's foot. then he cried: "oh, i should say that was a cut! oh, my, yes! no doubt about it whatever! but there, don't cry," he added, for he saw some tears running down alice's yellow bill. "i'll fix it for you." so he got some nice, soft leaves, and he tied them on her sore foot with some stout grass. then she felt better, but she couldn't walk, and she didn't know how she was ever going to get home. so she asked uncle wiggily. "why, the easiest thing in the world!" cried uncle wiggily. "all i have to do is to say a little verse, and i'll think of a way." so he said this little verse: "wiggily, waggily, woggily wome, how shall i get alice home? she has hurt herself quite much and she'll have to use my crutch." of course, uncle wiggily knew that wasn't a very good verse, but it was the best he could do. "you shall use my cornstalk crutch, that nurse jane fuzzy-wuzzy made for me," he went on. "it will be just the thing." "won't you need it?" asked alice, very politely. "no," said uncle wiggily. "my rheumatism is much better to-day. you may have it," and he fitted it under alice's wing, and she could walk pretty well, not having to use her sore foot. then that kind old rabbit scraped up all the cornmeal, and he put some in his big left ear and some in his big right ear, because the bag was broken, and he carried the dented butter, which wasn't hurt the least mite. then they started for the duck pen and they reached it safely, alice limping along as well as she could. and uncle wiggily told mamma wibblewobble about the accident, after he had emptied his left ear and his right ear of the cornmeal and had handed over the dented butter. dr. possum was called in to put some salve on alice's foot, and she was soon better. now that's all to-night, but, if the moving man doesn't take my typewriter away, i shall tell you to-morrow night about jimmie in a tall tree. story xxiii jimmie in a tall tree it had rained in the morning, and of course the grounds were too slippery and wet to play ball. that is, they were for sammie littletail and billie and johnnie bushytail, but naturally jimmie wibblewobble, the boy duck, and bully, the boy frog, would not have minded the wet the least bit. but there wasn't any ball game, and so jimmie was playing all alone in the woods back of his house, and wishing it hadn't rained. "oh! i wish some of the boys would come over," he said. "we could do something, even if it is wet. i'm lonesome." just then he heard a voice singing in the woods, and he heard the branches of the trees moving about, and bits of bark falling off. and this is the song he heard: you have to sing it quite slowly to get the full effect: "oh! it is such fun if you see the sun when the rain has gone away. if you'll come with me you may climb a tree, and in the top we'll play. "oh! the winds may blow and the cows may crow, but what care we for that? as you scamper high, near the bright, blue sky, look out, or you'll lose your hat." and with that who should come scampering out of a tree but billie and johnnie bushytail, the squirrel brothers. no, sister sallie wasn't with them this time, having stayed at home to wheel her corncob doll in the carriage her brothers had made for her. "hello!" cried billie and johnnie. "hello, jimmie!" "aw, why didn't you chaps come over to play ball?" asked the little boy duck. "oh! it was too wet," replied johnnie. "but say, jimmie, did you hear us singing?" "sure," answered jimmie. "but say; cows don't crow!" "i know it," replied johnnie. "billie made up that verse, and i made the first one. he said he had to have something like that in it or it wouldn't be right. but no matter. did you like it?" "yes, pretty well." "shall we sing it again?" asked johnnie. "no, don't!" begged his brother. "he's been singing it all the morning, and i'm getting tired of it, even if i did make up one verse," he explained. "but say, jimmie, don't you wish you could climb a tall tree, like this?" and before you could say salimagundy or maybe incomprehensibility or even disproportionability, why billie had run to the top of the tree and down again. "don't you wish you could?" he asked again. "yes," answered jimmie, looking up, "i wish i could climb a tree, but i guess ducks weren't made for that. i once tried to fly, and i didn't succeed very well. i'll stay on the ground, i think. come on, let's have a catch. i've got a ball." "no," spoke johnnie, "i have an idea. billie, why can't you and i teach jimmie to climb a tree? if we pick out one with branches close together i'm sure he could get up it. we can help him, and he can take hold of some limbs in his bill, like a parrot takes hold of the wires in his cage." "fine!" cried billie. "will you do it, jimmie?" "sure," answered the little boy duck, but he didn't know what was going to happen, or, maybe, he wouldn't have tried to climb up. well, the squirrels selected quite a tall tree, but rather an easy one, and jimmie managed to scramble up to the first low limbs, with billie and johnnie boosting him. after that it wasn't quite so hard, and he was able to get up quite a distance, pulling himself with his yellow bill. he was not very graceful, and i'm sure if you ever saw a duck climb a tree you would agree with me, but finally, after a great deal of hard work, jimmie was right on the top branch where the two squirrels sat blinking their eyes. "how do you like it?" asked johnnie. "fine!" cried jimmie. "quack! quack! quack!" now when a duck says "quack" three times, you may know he is very much pleased indeed. oh, what a fine view jimmie had, but he didn't dare frisk around as billie and johnnie did, for he was a trifle dizzy. then, after he had been up there some time, he thought he had better go down, for the wind was blowing the treetop, and he wasn't used to it. so, after billie and johnnie had sung their song again, jimmie started for the ground. well, you know how it is yourself, if you have ever climbed a tree. it's easy to go up, but it's hard to get down. the limb for your feet is never where you think it is. poor jimmie tried, and billie and johnnie helped him, but he didn't dare turn around to go down, backward, and that's the only way you can get down a tree, unless you're a squirrel. then jimmie began to get frightened. he knew it was time for him to go home, but it began getting darker and darker and darker, and there he was right in the top of the tree, as far away from the ground as ever. he tried once more, but he didn't dare let go of one branch with his bill, while he put his foot down on another limb below, and there he was. oh, what an unpleasant situation to be in, to say the least! "oh, i'll never get down!" cried jimmie. "i wish i'd stayed on the ground!" billie and johnnie began to get frightened, too, for it was partly their fault, and they were just going off for some kind of help, though what kind they didn't know, when they heard a noise. it was a swishing, swooping, swoshing noise, and who should fly down out of the sky but that good, kind fishhawk, who once carried billie and johnnie on his big back to lincoln park. as soon as the squirrels saw him they cried out: "oh, please help jimmie wibblewobble down! he's in a tall tree and can't reach the ground." "why, of course, to be sure," replied the kind fishhawk, and he alighted in the tree, and jimmie got upon his strong, broad back, and the fishhawk flew gently to the earth, and that's how jimmie got down. and maybe he wasn't glad of it! i know i am, anyhow. now, listen: the moving man didn't get my typewriter, after all, so if we have cocoanut-chocolate-mustard-apple-pie cake for supper, i can tell you a story to-morrow night, and it will be about the party alice and lulu had, and what happened at it. something wonderful, too, let, me tell you. story xxiv the wibblewobbles' party there was great excitement in the duck pen. and the reason for it was that lulu and alice were going to have a party. it was the first party they had ever had, and it was on their birthday. you see, it was this way: lulu and alice both had the same birthday; that is, they, were twins. jimmie was a day older than they were, and he wasn't a twin. there, now i've explained it all to you, and i'll get on with the story. well, mamma wibblewobble arranged for the party. she did all the baking and got the ice cream ready and made the pies and tarts, and alice and lulu sent out the invitations. they were written on nice little pieces of white birch bark that johnnie and billie bushytail gnawed off the trees for the little duck girls. of course, johnnie and billie were invited, and so was sammie littletail, and susie and sister sallie, and mr. and mrs. bushytail, and mr. and mrs. littletail, and uncle wiggily longears, and nurse jane fuzzy-wuzzy, and grandfather goosey-gander, and bully, the frog, and the goldfish, and, let me see, who else? oh, of course, the fairy prince. alice would not have had him left out for anything. alice and lulu had their best hair ribbons on and their new dresses, and were all dressed up for the party nearly an hour before it was time. jimmie got ready, too. that is, he put on a clean collar and a new, red necktie, and he looked very nice. but he really didn't care much about the party. he said he and the boys would go off by themselves and talk about baseball. "no," said his mother, "you must not do that. i want you and the boys to entertain the little girls. be nice, now, jimmie." so jimmie said he would, and pretty soon the company began to come. bully, the frog, hopped along first, and right after him came grandfather goosey-gander, and, would you believe me, he never said a word about jimmie breaking his window that time. "we are very glad to see you," said alice and lulu, as they stood at the front door to receive their friends. aunt lettie, the nice old lady goat, was also there, and as the guests came up, she called out: "now, girls, walk right in the bedroom and put your things on the bed. you boys take your things in jimmie's room." oh, it was a real party, let me tell you. uncle wiggily was the last to arrive, and you know why that was. it was because his rheumatism hurt him so. but he finally got there, and then the party was complete; that is, all but the fairy prince, and even the goldfish didn't know what had become of him. first the boys all stayed on one side of the room and the girls on the other, but when alice said, "let's play spin the platter," they all cried out, "oh, yes, let's do it." and they used one of mamma wibblewobble's dishes for the platter, and didn't break it a bit. jimmie was "it" part of the time, and so was johnnie bushytail. "now let's play going to jerusalem," proposed lulu, and they did, grandfather goosey-gander whistling through his bill, just like a fife, to make the music. then they played blind-duck-bluff, and post-office and clap-in clap-out, and forfeits and, oh, such lots of games that i can hardly remember them. oh, yes, there was one more, puss in the corner, and whom do you suppose was the puss? why the little kittie; lulu's little kittie, you know, that aunt lettie thought had come from the pussy-willows. "when are we going to eat?" asked bushytail, after a while, and he spoke out loud. "hush!" cried sister sallie. "you mustn't ask that, billie; it isn't polite!" "well, i wanted to know," said the little boy squirrel. "bless your heart!" exclaimed aunt lettie. "of course you do. it must be time to serve the refreshments. i'll go ask mrs. wibblewobble." "i don't want refreshments," objected billie, in a whisper to sister sallie. "i'm hungry, and i want something to eat!" "hush!" cried his little sister again. "refreshments are good things to eat!" "oh," said billie, and just then in came mamma wibblewobble and aunt lettie and mrs. bushytail and mrs. littletail and nurse jane fuzzy-wuzzy, all of whom helped serve the good things to eat. oh, what a lot of refreshments there were, including maple sugar, hickorynut ice cream and chocolate-covered carrots, and cornmeal made into little balls with cocoanut marshmallow on the outside, and candied cabbage leaves, and water-cress flavored with spearmint, and the land knows what! well, those children at alice's and lulu's party ate so much it's a wonder that they ever got home. they had a lovely time, though alice felt disappointed because the fairy prince didn't come, and everyone wished alice and lulu many happy returns, and bully, the frog, said: "when _you_ have a party, jimmie, i'm coming to that, too." "sure," answered jimmie. "i'll have one next week, if mamma will let me," for you see he found he liked parties better than he thought he would. well, they played some more games, including one called hide the peanut, and then it was time to go home; and now comes the queer part of it. just as they were all saying good-night, and uncle wiggily was looking for his crutch, there sounded out in the woods three blasts from a silver trumpet. "ta-ra-ta-ra-ta-ra!" you know, just like when the procession starts in a circus, and who should come riding up to the ducks' house but a little boy, all dressed in silver and gold, with a long white plume in his hat and he was on a white horse. once more the trumpet sounded, and the boy called out: "am i too late for the party?" "yes, you are," said uncle wiggily, leaning on his crutch, which he found behind the door. "but who are you?" [illustration] "me? i am the fairy prince!" cried the boy, and the trumpets blew again. "what? not the mud turtle fairy prince?" asked alice, fanning herself, so she wouldn't faint. "the very same," answered the boy. "i got tired of being a mud turtle, but i am still a fairy prince!" "i don't believe it!" exclaimed uncle wiggily. "you are only a little boy on a horse, and not a fairy prince at all!" "wait, and you shall see!" cried the boy, waving his hand, and the silver trumpet blew again, "ta-ra-ta-ra-ta-ra!" and the horse reared up on his hind legs. "i certainly am the fairy prince, and to prove it i will do something wonderful. come to the woods to-morrow, uncle wiggily longears, and see!" "what will i see?" asked uncle wiggily. "you will see a red fairy," answered the boy who used to be mud turtle, "and the red fairy will do something wonderful for you." "oh!" cried uncle wiggily, "i don't believe in fairies!" but, all the same, he had to, after what happened, for he went back to the woods, and met a red fairy, and the red fairy stopped uncle wiggily's rheumatism for a time, as you can find out by reading the first book of this series, entitled "sammie and susie littletail," which tells a lot about two little rabbit children and their friends, as well as about uncle wiggily longears. now i've reached the end of this story, but there's another one for to-morrow night, in case you don't hit anybody with your bean shooter, and it's going to be about lulu and the golden fairy. story xxv lulu and the golden fairy once upon a time it was raining very hard one morning. it was just when lulu and alice and jimmie wibblewobble were looking out of the window of the duck pen, getting ready for school. "jimmie, is your hair combed?" asked his mamma. "no, ma'am," he answered; "but i'm just going to comb it." "and did you brush your teeth?" "no, mamma, but i'm just going--" "now, now, jimmie, that's what you always say. hurry to the bathroom and clean your teeth at once, or else there'll be a dentist coming to the school looking into your mouth and goodness knows what will happen then. hurry, now, or you'll be late." jimmie cleaned his teeth quickly, and ran on to school so he wouldn't be late and get a bad mark. what's that? you didn't know ducks had teeth? well, the next time you get a chance, when a duck opens his mouth real wide, you look in, and maybe you'll see them. they're very small, i know, but that doesn't count. well, lulu and alice ran on ahead, and jimmie came following after. he wasn't late at school because he met bully the frog, who hopped, and so jimmie had to run to keep up. the little boy duck was the first one in the classroom, and the teacher said: "why, jimmie, this is a delightful surprise. you are not late this morning, though you were every other day this week." "yes, ma'am," was all jimmie said, as he took his seat. well, you should have seen it rain! honestly, i don't know when it ever rained so hard before; maybe not since the animals came out of the ark, or the last time i wanted to go to a picnic. some of the kindergarten children got quite wet, because, you see, they were so little that they couldn't hold their umbrellas up straight. and even some of the high school girls got wet, too; but they didn't mind. jimmie and his sisters didn't need an umbrella, for, you know, water always runs off a duck's back, and doesn't do a bit of harm. it rained when the duck children got home from school, and it was still raining when mrs. wibblewobble said: "my dears, i don't like to ask you to go out in the storm again, but i do wish you would run over to grandfather goosey-gander's house. he is ill, and i want to send him some hot watercress tea." now alice didn't want to go because her foot, that she once had cut on a stone, pained her. and jimmie, well, no sooner had he gotten in the house, and taken some bread and butter, with jam on it, than he had run out in the rain again, to play with bully, the frog. that left only lulu to go to grandfather goosey-gander's house, but she said she didn't mind in the least, and afterward she was very glad she went, for she saw a most wonderful sight. just you wait, and i'll tell you about it. so mrs. wibblewobble put the hot tea in a tin pan, and covered it over with a burdock leaf, to keep the rain out, and then she put some cold potatoes in a dish, for she thought the old gentleman duck might like them as well. then lulu started off through the woods to go to her grandfather's house. it was still raining, but she didn't mind, and pretty soon, oh, maybe in about ten quacks, she came to where mr. gander lived. well, you would have felt sorry for him if you could have seen him. there he was, sitting on a stool, with his feet in a pail of hot water, and seven bottles of medicine on a table at his right wing, and six bottles of pills on a table at his left wing, and there was a blanket up around his neck, and he had a nightcap on, and he was groaning something terrible; yes, really he was. "oh, grandfather!" cried lulu. "are you very sick?" "yes," he replied, "i am very sick. i think i have the pip, or maybe the epizoodic." "which is worse?" asked lulu, as she set the hot tea and the cold potatoes on the table. "they are both worse," answered the old gentleman duck. "that is, they seem so, when you have them both at once. but i think i would feel better if i had a hot cornmeal poultice on the back of my neck. only i can't make it and put it there, for i can't take my feet out of the hot water, and i don't know where the cornmeal is, and i'm home all alone, for my wife has gone shopping." "oh, i'll make it for you," said lulu very kindly. "i know where the cornmeal is." so she went to get some, and, on the way to the meal box she began to think: "wouldn't it be lovely if a blue fairy, or a green one or a purple one, or even a skilligimink colored one would appear now? i would ask her to make grandfather better. but i don't s'pose one will come, for i never have any luck seeing fairies," and she sighed three times as she opened the cornmeal box. then, all of a sudden, as she lifted the cover, as true as i'm telling you, if she didn't see something all glittering and shining down in one corner of the box. at first she thought it was the yellow meal, but then she saw that it was a little creature, all gold, with shimmering wings, like those of a humming bird. "oh!" cried lulu, "are you a fairy?" "yes," replied the little creature, "i am the golden cornmeal fairy. i have been shut up here for ever and ever so long, and i thought i would never get out. but, since you have let me out, i will do anything in the world for you," and she waved her golden wings, and sang a jolly, golden song about diamonds. "will you?" cried lulu. "then please make my grandfather better, for he is very sick and has to take thirteen kinds of medicine." "i will make him well," said the fairy, as she flew out of the box, "and it is very kind of you to ask that, instead of something for yourself. now, you make a nice hot poultice of this meal, which is magical, and put it on the back of his neck. "then you say this fairy word: bibbilybab-bilyboobily-bag,' and see what happens. but don't tell your grandfather i am a fairy; in fact, say nothing to any one about it, for we fairies are going away for a time, but we may come back later." then the golden fairy waved her wings and disappeared. but lulu did just as she had been told, even to saying that magical word, and, my gracious! if grandfather goosey-gander didn't get all well in a second, and he thanked lulu very much. she felt sorry about the fairy disappearing so suddenly, but you can't always have fairies, you know. now, if you girls don't lose your pink hair ribbon i'll tell you to-morrow night about jimmie and the black cow. story xxvi jimmie and the black cow lulu wibblewobble felt quite proud of having seen the golden fairy in the corn meal box. in fact she was the only one of her family who saw a fairy for ever and ever so long after that, because the fairies happened to go away from that part of the country. of course, lulu wondered how the tiny creature got into the meal box, and she wondered if she might tell alice and jimmie about having seen her, but she decided she had better not. now it was about a week after lulu had taken grandfather goosey-gander the hot tea and the cold potatoes, that something happened to jimmie wibblewobble. it was one afternoon when he was on his way home from school, and he was all alone, for he had been kept in for missing his spelling lesson, and all the other children had gone on. you see he couldn't spell "vinegar." of course that's an easy word, i know, but jimmie didn't like sour things, and i suppose that's why he missed vinegar. he put the "x" and a "k" of the word in the wrong places. anyway he was kept in, and he had to write "ketchup" on his paper fifty times. well, after he was let out jimmie started off through the woods and over the fields. pretty soon, right after he was passing along a deep, dark, dingly dell, which is a sort of little valley, with flowers and ferns growing in it, he heard a bell ring. "ding-dong! ding-dong! ding-dong!" went the bell. at first jimmie thought he was near a church, but just then the bell rang differently. this time it went: "tinkle-tankle! tinkle-tankle! tinkle-tank--" just like that. "why!" exclaimed jimmie. "i wonder what that can be?" then he went on a little farther, and he came out of the deep, dark dingle-dell, and he heard the bell more plainly still. this time it rang very rapidly, and right after it jimmie heard a loud voice calling: "moo! moo! moo! help me, will you; will you?" "why!" cried jimmie. "that's a cow!" then, in another moment he came from behind a big tree, and what should he see but a big, black cow, standing in a swamp. the cow was shaking her head and shaking her horns at the same time, and ringing the bell, which was fastened around her neck by a strap, and she was mooing as hard as she could moo. "why, what's the matter?" asked jimmie, wobbling up quite close to her. "what ever is the matter?" "lots and lots is the matter," answered the cow. "but aren't you afraid of me, little boy duck; afraid of me and my sharp horns?" "why no," answered jimmie, after he had thought it over for a minute or two. "i don't believe i am afraid of you. why should i be afraid?" "no reason at all; none in the world," replied the cow. "but since i'm in trouble so many creatures seem to be afraid of me. i saw a frog hopping past, and i asked him to help me, but i guess he was afraid i'd step on him, so he wouldn't come near, but hopped off as far as he could." "that must have been bully," said jimmie. "he's afraid of lots of things. but maybe he was in a hurry," he added, for he did not want to say that bully was afraid if the frog wasn't frightened, you know. "well," agreed the cow, "maybe he was. then a rabbit boy hopped past, and i asked him to help me, but he was afraid, too." "that must have been sammie littletail," said jimmie. "but i don't believe he was afraid. sammie is very brave. maybe he was in a hurry." "well," admitted the cow, "maybe he was. but then two little squirrel boys came along, and i asked them to help me, but they ran away, frisking their tails. i guess they were afraid." "no," answered jimmie, "they weren't afraid. they were billie and johnnie bushytail, and the reason they ran was to get some one to help you, for they are very kind. maybe bully and sammie will bring some one to help you, also. but what seems to be the matter?" "my foot is caught under a stone," said the cow, and she blinked her big brown eyes as fast as she could. in fact, they opened and shut so rapidly that big tears came from them, and splashed down her nose. "oh! i am so sorry!" cried jimmie. "your foot caught under a stone!" "wait a minute! hold on!" exclaimed the cow. "that is not the worst of it! you have not heard all! my foot is under a stone, and the stone is under water, so i can't see to get my foot out. that's why i feel so badly about it. you can see for yourself, johnnie--" "my name is jimmie," said the little boy duck quickly. "well, jimmie, then," went on the cow. "you can see for yourself how it is, or, rather, you can't see, for the water is in the way," and then jimmie noticed that one of the cow's hoofs was down in a puddle of water, and no matter how hard she pulled she couldn't get loose from that stone; no, sir, any more than you can tie a string to one of your teeth and get the tooth loose--that is, not counting a tooth that needs pulling, of course. "well," remarked jimmie, after he had looked very carefully at the puddle where the cow's foot was, "it's too bad." "it certainly is," agreed the cow. "you see if the stone wasn't under water i could see to loosen it with my horn, but as it is i can't, and i've tried several times," and she tried once more, just to show she was telling the truth. "i've been here some time," the cow went on, "and no one seems able to help me," and she mooed some more, and the bell tinkled some more, and more of her tears fell splish-splash in the puddle of water, making it bigger than ever. "i will help you!" cried jimmie, suddenly. "i am a duck, and i know all about water!" so he jumped right in that puddle, and he commenced to splash with his wings and his yellow feet, and my goodness gracious sakes alive! if in about two quacks he didn't have all the water splashed out of that hole where the poor cow's foot was fast. then the cow could see to loosen the stone with her horn, and she could walk home. and because jimmie was so kind she gave him a pail of milk to take to the duck pen for alice and lulu. now to-morrow night the story will be about alice and the puppy dogs, providing the automobile does not turn upside down and spill me out. story xxvii alice and the puppy dogs alice wibblewobble had been over to pay a visit to sister sallie, the little squirrel-sister of johnnie and billie bushytail, and she had ever so much fun; and a good time, and such a nice supper! ending up with butternut ice cream, with maple sugar for dessert. well, before alice knew it, night had come, and it was all dark. "oh! dear!" she cried, "i didn't know it was so late." "are you afraid to go home in the dark?" asked mrs. bushytail. "no, not exactly," answered alice, "but you see it's so dark i might tumble into a hole, or cut my foot again on a sharp stone. i'm not exactly afraid of the dark, but--" "oh! i understand," said mamma bushytail. "but i hardly know what to do," she went on. "my husband is away this evening, or he would take you home, and billie and johnnie are over at grandpa lightfoot's, and i'm so busy getting through my spring housecleaning, and sewing a new dress for sister sallie, that i don't believe i could spare the time to go." "oh! i wouldn't think of asking you," spoke alice quickly, but she looked out into the dark, and she didn't feel very happy, even if she had just eaten a large plate of butternut ice cream. "couldn't you stay all night, my dear?" asked sister sallie's mother. "no, i'm afraid my mamma would worry," replied alice. "perhaps jimmie will come for you pretty soon," suggested sister sallie, and then she hummed that little verse about going hippity-hop to the barber shop to buy a lolly-pop lally. you remember it, i dare say. "maybe he will," agreed alice, so she and sister sallie played another game, but it got darker and darker, and no jimmie came, and then alice knew she must start for home, or her papa and mamma would be worried. but she didn't like to go out in the black night, and she was almost ready to cry, and didn't know what to do, when, all of a sudden, sister sallie called out: "oh, mamma, i know the very thing! i'll run next door, to where mrs. bow wow lives, and ask her to send jackie and peetie home with alice." "who are peetie and jackie?" asked the little girl duck. "they are puppy dogs," replied sister sallie, "and the cutest ones you ever saw! oh, they are darlings! they'll go home with you through the woods, because they are very brave. some day they will grow to be big dogs, and guard the house. i'll ask mrs. bow wow, their mamma, to let them take you home." "that will be a good plan," agreed mrs. bushytail. "run in and ask mrs. bow wow, sister sallie." so sister sallie ran in next door, and pretty soon she came back with two of the cutest puppy dogs alice had ever seen. "which one is peetie and which one is jackie?" alice asked, as they tumbled about on the floor, getting up and falling down again. "i am peetie," answered one. "you can tell that because i am all white with a black spot on my nose." "and i am jackie," said his brother. "i am all black, with a white spot on my nose. so you see it is easy to tell us apart." "yes," agreed alice with a laugh, "i see; that is, i would see if you kept still long enough, only you don't, for you wiggle and tumble about so much. but will you please take me home?" "of course we will," answered jackie, rubbing the black spot on his brother's nose with his paw. just then, if those two puppy dogs didn't see one of papa bushytail's boots, and, land sakes alive! if one didn't grab one end and one the other end, and they began to pull and growl. puppy dogs always do such things, you know. "oh! oh! you mustn't do that," cried mamma bushytail. "you must take alice home." "we will," answered peetie, rubbing the black spot on his own nose with his little white paw. "we were only doing this for practice. come on, alice! bow-wow! bow-wow!" so pretty soon, after a while, oh, not so very long, alice started for the duck pen, with jackie and peetie bow wow tumbling over each other in their eagerness to see which would walk at her right wing, and which at her left. well, weren't those puppy dogs brave, though, to go out in the dark night? they never thought anything about it, really; any more than you mind going to bed in the dark. then, all of a sudden, as they were walking through a very dismal place in the woods, jackie began to growl. "oh, don't do that!" cried alice, "you frighten me! did you see a burglar or a wolf?" "why, i only growled because i smelled a bone," said jackie, and he laughed, and fell over and over, turning a complete somersault. "i smelled the bone first!" cried peetie, "and i'm going to have it!" then the two of them made a rush for the nice, juicy bone, and they each got hold of it and began to pull, one on one end and one on the other, and they fell down and slipped and stumbled all over in the darkness, getting mixed up in the leaves, growling and snarling; but, of course, it was all in fun, you know, for the puppy dogs loved each other. "oh, don't do that, peetie!" begged alice, touching one of the puppy dogs with her foot. "don't tumble about so, peetie!" "i'm not peetie; i'm jackie!" was the answer. "can't you tell by the white spot on my nose? peetie has a black spot." "i can't see very well in the dark," replied alice. then something very funny happened, for when jackie opened his mouth to speak to alice he had to let go of the bone, and of course peetie ran off with it and hid it. but that was a good thing, for they couldn't pull on it any more, and when peetie came back they both rubbed noses, and went on through the dark woods, taking alice home. they had only one accident. that is, they fell down a hole, but they weren't hurt at all, i'm glad to say. then, when alice was safe in the duckpen, the puppy dogs ran back home and went right to sleep. now, if you don't spill the salt in the sugar bowl, i'm going to tell you to-morrow night about jimmie and jackie. story xxviii jimmie and jackie bow wow when alice reached the duckpen that night, after she had gone visiting sister sallie, and was brought home by the puppy dogs, she told her folks all about it. "jackie and peetie bow wow, eh?" remarked jimmie, her brother, when she had told their names. "i never heard of them. they must be new around here." "they are," answered alice. "but they are just as cute as they can be; really they are." "cute, eh?" asked jimmie. "can they play ball?" "i don't know," replied his sister. "but you ought to see them pull on that old boot and the bone! oh, it was too funny!" "and they took good care of you, didn't they," asked lulu. "indeed, they did," answered alice. "they weren't afraid of anything, even when an owl hooted." so the next day, which was saturday, when there wasn't any school, jimmie started off with his wooden bat over his shoulder, his catching glove under one wing and his ball under the other. "where are you going?" asked his mother. "i'm going over to mrs. bow wow's house to see if i can find the puppy dogs," he said. "i want to get acquainted with them." "all right, jimmie, but be sure to wipe your feet if you go in mrs. bow wow's house, and don't forget to take off your cap and say 'yes, ma'am,' and 'no, ma'am,' jimmie." "s'posin' she doesn't ask me anything?" inquired jimmie. "what'll i say?" "well, then, of course, you needn't say anything; but be polite," warned the little boy duck's mother, for sometimes he forgot, though he didn't mean to. well, he was walking along through the woods, and over the green fields where the dandelions were just coming up, looking like buttons on a policeman's coat, if the policeman's coat was green instead of blue, and i think green would be a nice color. but no matter about that. jimmie was walking along, when, all of a sudden, he heard a little growl. at first he thought it was the bad fox after him again, but in a moment he saw a little black ball of fur rolling along, and then he saw a little white spot, and he thought that might be sammie littletail, only he knew the rabbit boy never growled. then, all at once, if that ball of fur didn't unroll, and there stood a puppy dog! "hello!" called jimmie wibblewobble, real friendly-like. "hello!" answered the puppy dog. "are you peetie or jackie bow wow?" asked the little boy duck, for he knew the puppy dog must be one or the other. "i'm jackie," was the answer. "can't you tell? i'm all black with a white spot on my nose, and my brother, peetie, is all white with a black spot on his nose. see? i'm black with a black spot--no, i mean i'm black with a white spot, and jackie he's black--no, hold on--he's white--no, i'm jackie, and he's peetie--he's white with a white--no, a black spot--" "oh, for mercy sakes, stop!" cried jimmie. "i'm all tangled up with white spots and black spots!" "so am i," admitted jackie. "it's hard to tell who i am, sometimes." "is it, really?" asked jimmie. "yes, it is. in fact i'm mixed up now. would you kindly look and tell me if i have a white or a black spot on my nose. i could look myself, only it makes me cross-eyed, and i don't like that." so jimmie looked, very carefully, and he saw a white spot on the puppy dog's nose, and told him so. "it's all right. i'm jackie then," answered the little fellow. "i thought i was, but it's best to make sure." "can you play ball?" asked jimmie. "my sister told me about you. it was very kind of you to bring her home. you haven't lived here very long, have you?" "not very. but i'm glad i could help your sister. she is a nice girl." "where's your brother, peetie?" asked jimmie. "oh, he's gone to the store for mamma." "then let's you and i have a catch until he comes back. you can play ball, can't you?" "of course." so jimmie tossed the ball to jackie, and the puppy dog stood up on his hind legs and caught it in his front paws, and then he fell right over, ker-thump, and rolled along the ground. "here!" cried the boy duck. "that's no way to play ball! you must stand up and catch." "oh, i know that," declared jackie. "you see i was only practising at biting the ball with my teeth. i always bite things to sharpen my teeth so i can gnaw big bones when i get to be a big dog." "well, you needn't sharpen your teeth on my new ball!" cried jimmie, and he felt a little angry; not much, you know, but a little and he took the ball and was going home, for he didn't like jackie, he thought. it was too bad the little creatures had had a falling-out so soon, but please wait just a moment and see what happens. no sooner had jimmie started to go home--jackie didn't know why, you see, for he didn't know it was wrong to bite the ball--no sooner, i say, did jimmie start home, than out from the bushes jumped a great big water rat, with ugly, cruel, sharp teeth and wicked eyes. oh, how frightened jimmie was, for he knew big water rats ate ducks. but what do you suppose jackie, that puppy dog, did? why he just growled away down in his throat, and he stuck up one ear as far as it would go, and he let the other ear fall down as far as it would fall, and he opened his mouth, and he showed his teeth, that he had sharpened on jimmie's ball, and he jumped right at that bad rat! yes, sir, right at him, growling all the while! at first the rat was going to fight, but when it saw how brave jackie was, it turned and ran away. and then that puppy dog just put his little tail between his legs, and howled, and ran away, too; jimmie waddling after him. you see jackie was frightened after it was all over, but he had frightened the rat worse yet. "how brave you were!" cried jimmie, when they were at mrs. bow wow's house. "you were very brave, indeed." "do you really think so?" asked jackie. "then i must be." "you can bite my ball all you want to," went on jimmie, and then peetie came home from the store, and they all had a fine time playing catch. now to-morrow night i'm going to tell you about grandfather goosey-gander's tall hat, if i don't lose a penny off the front stoop. story xxix grandfather goosey-gander's tall hat jimmie wibblewobble was in the back lots, playing ball with billie and johnnie bushytail, sammie littletail, and bully, the frog, besides some other friends of his. they were having a fine time, knocking the ball this way and that, just as if the ball didn't care what happened to it. when it came jimmie's turn to bat, he called out: "watch me knock it away over the tree," and land sakes, goodness me and a pop-corn cake! if that ball didn't fly away over the tree, just like a little bird. well,--jimmie was pretty proud, i can tell you, and he was such a good hitter that bully said: "let jimmie knock some more balls for us to catch." so he did, after billie bushytail had run to get the one that went over the tree, and brought it back. well, so the game went on, and pretty soon, oh, i guess it must have been about as long as it takes to eat two pieces of bread and butter, but not with jam on, mind you; i guess in about that time, it was billie bushytail's turn to bat. and just as he stepped up to hit the ball, if all the boy animals didn't see something black moving along by the hedge fence. it was black and round and shiny, this moving object was, and as soon as sammie littletail saw it he cried out: "oh, there's a bad fox. let's see who can hit him." so they all caught up stones to throw at the bad fox, to drive him away. jimmie had the largest stone, and he could throw the straightest, so it is no wonder he hit the tall, round, shining black thing by the hedge. but this is the funny part of it, that black thing wasn't a fox at all. no, siree! it was grandfather goosey-gander's new tall hat, and that wasn't at all funny, i do assure you. and the worst part of it was that grandfather goosey-gander was under that hat! for, you know, a tall hat couldn't walk along by a hedge, all alone its own self, now, could it? of course, i know it could if this were a fairy story, but it isn't. [illustration] well, something dreadful happened. the stone which jimmie threw hit grandfather's tall hat, went inside, just grazing the top of the old gentleman duck's head, and then, what do you think? well, i don't believe you could guess if you tried a week, so i'll tell you. that stone came out on the other side. it went right through the hat, making a hole where it went in, and another hole where it came out. two holes; you could easily have counted them if you had been there. of course, as soon as jimmie heard the noise, made by the stone which he threw, hitting the hat, he could tell by the plinkity-plunkity sound that there was going to be trouble. and there was. grandfather goosey-gander jumped up in the air. he uttered a loud quack, and then he took off his tall hat. he looked at the two ragged holes in it, and then he looked over at the boys in the field. he knew right away they had done it, but he didn't know which one. jimmie, however, was a good boy, and he wasn't going to have any one else blamed for what _he_ had done. so he ran to where his grandfather stood, sorrowfully looking at his hat, and jimmie said: "i did it, grandpa. i cannot tell a story. i did it with my little stone." "ha! hum! did you; eh?" cried grandfather goosey-gander. "well, that's a pretty bad thing to do, jimmie. this is my best hat. i put it on to go down to the bank, to put money in. i mean to put money in the bank, not in the hat, of course. i always wear it when i go to the bank, so folks will know i am rich. now i can't wear it any more. it's too bad!" and the old gentleman duck looked very sorrowful. "yes," agreed jimmie, "it is too bad," for he couldn't think of anything else to say. "you will have to pay for a new hat for me," went on his grandfather. "i haven't any money," said jimmie, and tears began to run down his broad, yellow bill, for the little boy duck felt pretty bad, i can tell you. "you will have to save up all the pennies you get," decided grandfather goosey-gander. "boys should not be so careless." "we thought you were a fox," said billie bushytail. "and we all threw stones at you," added sammie littletail. "but i'm the only one who hit your hat, though," admitted jimmie. "do i look like a fox?" demanded the old duck. "that's what i want to know. do i look like a fox?" well, of course, you know he didn't, and the ball players had to admit it. "you will have to pay for my hat, jimmie," grandpa continued, looking again at two ragged holes. "have you any money now?" "no," said jimmie, and he was crying real hard by this time. then all the other boys felt badly, too, and they were just looking in their pockets to see if they had any money, but they hadn't. all they had was some marbles, and tops, and broken knives, and chewing gum, all sticky, and some strings. then it began to look as if grandfather goosey-gander would never have a new hat, but, all at once, there was a buzzing sound in the air, and what should come flying along but a darning needle. you know what i mean: one of those funny, long bugs sometimes called a dragon fly, with beautiful wings, and long legs and body. "what is the trouble?" asked the darning needle, and then the boys told him about the broken hat. "ah," said the darning needle, careless-like, "do not distress yourself, jimmie. i know you are a good boy. to fix that hat is a mere trifle for me, and i'll do it." and what did that dragon-fly-darning-needle do but buzz back and forth, all around the holes in grandfather goosey-gander's tall hat, right through the hat itself, until he had the holes all sewed up, and you could hardly tell where they were. then mrs. spider came along, and she spun some glossy silk web over the places where the seams were, and presto-chango! if that hat wasn't as good as ever! well, you can just imagine how glad jimmie was that he didn't have to pay for it. and his grandpa was pleased, too, and so were the boys. then the darning needle flew away, mrs. spider crawled off, grandfather goosey-gander went to the bank, the boys played ball some more and everything was lovely. now, if the window curtain doesn't fly up lickety-split and come off the roller, i'll tell you to-morrow night about jimmie flying a kite. story xxx jimmie wibblewobble's kite jimmie wibblewobble was out flying his kite. he had made it all himself, out of sticks, and paste, and paper and strings, and it was a very fine kite indeed. it was nearly as large as the little boy duck, and it was the kind of a kite that doesn't need a tail. that was good, because a tail gets all tangled up in the weeds. well, jimmie was flying his kite, and the wind was pretty strong, and the kite was pulling real hard, just like a little dog pulls, when you tie a rope to his collar, and he wants to get away. pretty soon along came bully, the frog. "does your kite pull much?" he asked. "does it?" replied jimmie. "well, i should say it did!" "let me hold it a minute, will you?" asked bully, and jimmie very kindly let him. then along came billie and johnnie bushytail, and sammie littletail, and they all took turns holding the kite. well now, in a few minutes, something dreadful is going to happen to jimmie. i tell you in advance so you won't be frightened, and, really, there is no need to be, for i'll see to it that, after the thing happens, jimmie will be all right again. now if you watch, and listen closely, you can tell the moment the thing happens. it's almost time. the wind kept growing stronger and stronger, and it blew the dust up in a cloud, and it blew bits of paper and sticks along with the dust, and raised a dreadful commotion. then long came alice and lulu wibblewobble. they had been to the store for their mamma, and had just come back. they felt the strong wind blowing on their feathers, and alice said to her brother: "you had better take down your kite, jimmie. the wind may blow it away, and you with it." "oh, i guess i can hold it," answered the little boy duck, as he let out some more cord. the kite was now almost out of sight, and it was pulling harder than ever. then, all at once, if jackie and peetie bow wow, the two puppy dogs, didn't come along. jackie had his white spot on his nose, and peetie had his black spot on his nose, so that you could tell them apart. and those two doggies felt so full of fun that they ran right up and made believe bite jimmie's yellow heels. now you know it feels queer to have two puppy dogs biting your heels, even if it is only in fun, and as soon as jimmie felt jackie and peetie nipping him, he turned around quickly and cried out: "oh, don't do that!" but the minute he looked around, if the kite string didn't get tangled in his legs, and then if the wind didn't blow a regular strong blast, the kind that howls down the chimney on a cold night; and oh, dear me, suz-dud! if jimmie wasn't carried right up in the air by his kite! there, i told you something would happen, and it did! maybe you'll believe me next time. well, up and up and up went jimmie, pulled by the kite, until he was quite high in the air, hanging dingling, dangling down--o! by his yellow heels. oh, it was a perfectly dreadful position to be in! really it was, and i'm not fooling a bit, honestly. "oh, oh! save him!" cried lulu. "yes, somebody get him down; please do!" added alice, flapping her wings. billie bushytail tried to jump up in the air, and grab hold of poor jimmie, but he couldn't reach him, and then sammie littletail, he tried, but he couldn't reach him, and all the while poor jimmie was being carried higher and higher by the kite. "save me! oh, save me!" he cried, but there didn't seem to be any way of getting him down, and it began to look as if he would go right up to the sky. on the ground lulu and alice were running here and there, flapping their wings and quacking, and billie and johnnie bushytail were chattering, and as for sammie littletail, he made a noise just like a rabbit. oh, there was great excitement, i can tell you! mr. cock a. doodle, the rooster, he came running out, and he crowed as loud as ever he could crow, as if that could do any good. then he flapped his wings as hard as he could, and that didn't do any good, either. jimmie kept going farther and farther away. "oh, will no one save him?" asked lulu, crying big tears. "wait a minute, i'll try it!" said bully, the frog. "i am a good jumper, and i'll jump up. maybe i can pull the kite down." so he jumped up as high as ever he could, but it wasn't nearly high enough, and bully came back on the ground, ker-thump, ker-bump! and jimmie wibblewobble kept on going up. poor bully hurt his ankle, too, and he was lame for some days. "run and tell grandfather goosey-gander," cried lulu. "maybe he can think up a way of getting jimmie down." so they all ran and told the old gentleman duck, for mr. and mrs. wibblewobble were away that afternoon. grandfather goosey-gander hurried out, and he squinted up at jimmie, who looked only about as big as a baby chicken now, he was so far away, and then the grandfather flapped his wings. "nothing can save him!" said grandfather goosey-gander, very solemnly, "jimmie has gone to the sky!" then, oh, how badly lulu and alice felt for their little brother! and all the others felt badly, too, for they liked jimmie. but don't get excited now. all will be well in a very few minutes. do not fear. bully, the frog, made one more jump, hoping to reach the kite, and pull it down, but he might as well have tried to jump over the moon, which only a hey-diddle-diddle-cat-and-the-fiddle-cow can do. well, it looked as if jimmie was gone for ever, when, all at once, there was a rushing of wings, and who should appear, but a kind fish hawk, that once gave johnnie and billie bushytail a ride on his back. "i will save jimmie!" cried the fish hawk. so he flew up in the air, right to the kite, and, with his strong beak, he tore a hole in the paper to let the air through. then the kite came gently down, just like a red balloon, or maybe a blue one, that you get at the circus, and some one sticks a pin in it. yes, the kite came gently down, and jimmie came with it, and that's how he was saved! and, maybe he wasn't glad! well, i just guess, and some cornstarch pudding besides! of course peetie and jackie were very sorry for biting jimmie's heels and never did it again. now, if i don't get stung by a bee, i'll tell you to-morrow night about alice in a bag. [illustration] story xxxi alice wibblewobble in a bag you remember i told you last night about jimmie wibblewobble being carried up by a kite. well, when his papa and mamma came home that evening, they heard all about it, and how much excitement there was, and they told jimmie he must be more particular after this. he promised that he would be very careful. "i'll fly smaller kites," he said, and he went out the next time with one about the size of a postage stamp, and that couldn't take any one up in the air, you know, except, maybe, a mosquito, and they don't count. well, it was about two days after this that something happened to alice. you see she had been sent to the store for a yeast cake and some prunes, for her mamma was going to make prune bread--that is, bread with prunes in it, and it's very nice, i assure you, for i've eaten it. as alice was coming home, through a lonely part of the woods, where the trees were so thick that it was almost dark, she began to feel a little bit frightened. so, to stop herself from feeling scared she began to sing. if she had been a boy, she would have shouted, or if she had been lulu she would have whistled, for lulu could whistle as good as could jimmie. but instead alice sang, and this is the song she made up so she wouldn't be frightened. you are allowed to sing it if you are not more than seven-and-three-quarters years old. if you are any older than that you will have to have a special excuse; or some one else will have to sing it for you. well, this is the song: "i'm not afraid to wander in woodlands dark and drear, for who is there to harm me when not a soul is near? the birds, the trees and flowers are kind as kind can be, i'm sure that not a single one would do a thing to me. "the bugs and pretty butterflies will form a fairy band and guard me safely while i walk throughout this dark woodland. but just the same, i'll hurry, and not stay here too long; because, you see, i only know two verses of this song." well, as soon as alice finished singing, land sakes! goodness, gracious me! if a big fox didn't pop out from behind a tree, and before alice could say "how do you do?" or even "good afternoon," or anything like that, if he didn't grab her by the legs and put her into a bag he carried over his shoulder, and then he tied the bag tight and started to run away. "oh! oh!" cried alice. "let me out! please let me out of this bag, mr. fox, and i'll give you all the money i've got saved up in my bank! honest, i will; every cent in my bank!" "no," answered the fox savagely. "i don't want your money. what good would money be to me? i can't eat money! ha! ha! ha!" and he laughed that way three times, just like a mooley cow. "are you going to eat me?" asked alice, from inside the bag, where she was trembling so that she squashed the yeast cake all out, as flat as a pancake on a cold winter morning, when you have brown sausage gravy and maple syrup to pour on it. "eat you? of course, i'm going to eat you!" cried the fox. "that is why i caught you. but i can't decide whether to have you boiled or roasted. it's quite trying not to know. i must make up my mind soon, however." then he ran on some more, over the hills, bumpity-bump, with poor alice jouncing around in that bag, and the little duck girl wished the fox would be a long time making up his mind which way to cook her, for she thought that maybe jimmie might come and save her in the meanwhile. "it didn't do much good to sing that song," thought alice, and i suppose it didn't, but you know you can't always have what you want in this world. oh, my, no, and a bottle of cough medicine besides. well, the old fox hurried on, with alice in the bag and he ran fast to get to his den, and pretty soon the little duck girl felt him coming to a stop. then she heard some one saying: "ah, good day, mr. fox; what have you in that bag?" "i have apples in this bag," said the fox. oh, but wasn't he the bold, bad story-telling fox, though? "apples, eh?" asked the voice again, and then alice knew right away who it was. can you guess? no? well, i'll tell you. it was nurse jane fuzzy-wuzzy, the kind old muskrat lady. it was she who had asked the question. "oh, so you have apples in there?" jane fuzzy-wuzzy repeated to the fox. "well, now, do you know," she went on, "i am very fond of apples. i wish you would give me one." "no," answered the bad fox, "i can't. these are very special apples, very sour, in fact, and i'm sure you wouldn't like them." "oh, i just love sour apples," said the muskrat, moving nearer to the fox, and showing her sharp teeth, like the carpenter's chisel when he shaves the door down to make it smaller. "i just love sour apples," said the nurse. "oh, i made a mistake, these are sweet apples," said the fox, quickly, waggling his big tail like a dusting brush. "i made a mistake, too," went on miss fuzzy-wuzzy. "i guess i love sweet apples instead of sour ones." "you will have to excuse me," again spoke the fox quickly. "i made two mistakes. these apples are half sweet and half sour, and not good at all." "if there is anything i am fonder of than anything else it's a half sweet and a half sour apple," declared the muskrat, and she showed her teeth some more, as if she were smiling, only she wasn't. she was getting ready to bite the bad fox, i guess. just then alice moved around in the bag, hoping miss fuzzy-wuzzy would see her, and what's more, the kind muskrat nurse did. "ah!" she exclaimed, "you have moving apples, i see. i just love moving apples." then the fox knew it was of no use to tell any more stories, so he started to hurry off with alice in the bag. but jane fuzzy-wuzzy jumped right at him, and she bit him on the nose, and on his front legs and on his hind legs, until he was glad enough to drop the bag containing poor alice, and run away, over the hills, as fast as he could go. then the muskrat gnawed open the bag, and alice came out, her feathers all ruffled up, but she was not much hurt; only the yeast cake was all squashed out of shape, like a piece of putty. then jane fuzzy-wuzzy took alice home safely, and nothing more happened right away. well, now, to-morrow night, let's see. ha! hum! oh, how careless of me! of course there isn't going to be any story to-morrow night, because we're at the end of this book. you can see for yourself, if you look carefully, that there are no more stories in it; not a single one. but, listen, as the telephone girl says; i think, in case that you liked the stories about the ducks, that i will write something about the adventures of jackie and peetie bow wow; you know, those two puppy dogs who once took alice home after she had been on a visit to sister sallie, and was afraid to go out in the dark. i have quite a number of stories about those two puppy dogs; peetie, you know, who was all white with a black spot on his nose, and jackie, who was all black with a white spot on his nose. so if you want to read about them you may do so in the next book of the bed time series, which will be called "jackie and peetie bow wow," and the book will have in it some pictures of the doggies; and tell how they had a show, and built a swing, and got lost, and ran away to join a circus, and did ever so many things that it was really astonishing; honestly it was! well, i think i'll say good night now, for i must get right to work on that other book. so go to sleep, and be good children, and maybe you'll dream about peetie and jackie--who knows? the end * * * * * books for boys by howard r. garis * * * * * _those smith boys series_ 12mo, finely illustrated. price 75c each, postpaid those smith boys or the mystery of the thumbless man those smith boys on the diamond or nip and tuck for victory other volumes in preparation * * * * * _the island boys series_ 12mo, finely illustrated. price 75c each, postpaid the island boys or fun and adventures on lake modok the island boys in camp or the secret of the falling water other volumes in preparation * * * * * books for little folk * * * * * _the bedtime stories series_ illustrated in color, with fine cover design a story for every night in the month. price 75c each, postpaid sammie and susie littletail 31 rabbit stories johnnie and billie bushytail 31 squirrel stories lulu, alice and jimmie wibblewobble 31 duck stories jackie and peetie bow wow 31 dog stories uncle wiggily's adventures 31 rabbit stories natural and artificial duck culture james rankin _price 50 cents._ fifth edition, revised and enlarged south easton, mass. 1906 entered according to act of congress, in the year 1906, by james rankin, in the office of the librarian of congress, at washington, d. c. all rights reserved. designed and compiled by h. a. summers boston, mass. [illustration: birds-eye view maplewood farm. james rankin, proprietor.] introduction. our original motive in publishing this little book, was one of self-defense, to relieve ourselves, in a measure, of a correspondence which was becoming much too large for the time at our disposal. after reading from fifty to one hundred letters per day, from people, asking all manner of questions concerning the hatching, growing and marketing of ducks, in detail, there were not hours enough in the twenty-four to answer them. this book was published to send out with our machines to meet these queries and give our patrons our method of growing, supposing it would cover all the points in duck-culture, but it does not as yet answer the ends. the questions still come in far beyond our ability to answer, and as our fourth edition is about exhausted, we now publish a fifth, revised, enlarged and illustrated; also adding a question bureau, which will answer many of the questions which have reached us during the past few years concerning the growing, as well as the diseases to which the pekin duck is subject. though we have been in this business for nearly forty years, and have been eminently successful, we do not claim to know all about it; but by persistent effort, careful selection and breeding, have succeeded in developing a mammoth strain of pekin ducks, which, for symmetry, precocity and fecundity (experts who have visited our place from all parts of the country tell us), stand unrivalled on this continent. many of our customers write us that their birds average from 150 to 165 eggs per season. we would say that there is no domestic bird under so perfect control, so free from diseases of all kinds, or from insect parasites as the pekin duck. from the time the little bird is hatched until it is full grown and ready to reproduce its own species, it is under the perfect control of the intelligent operator, who can produce feathers, flesh or bone at will, and even mature the bird and compel it to lay at four-and-a-half months old. there is no bird in existence that will respond to kind treatment, generous care and feed as the pekin duck. on the other hand, there is no bird more susceptible to improper feed or neglect, and a sad mortality is sure to follow among the little ones, where proper food and system are wanting. it may surprise some one to know that the predisposition to disease may exist in the egg from which the little bird is hatched, or even in the condition of the parent bird which produces the egg. strong physique in animal life, as in man, are like exotics, requiring the most assiduous care and cultivation, and are the most difficult to transmit. defects, like weeds, seem indigenous to the soil and will reproduce with unerring regularity, and will often crop out in all directions, generations after you think you have wiped it all out. so it is one thing to produce an egg from good, strong, vigorous stock during the winter in inclement weather, when all nature is against you, and so poorly fertilized that if it hatches at all, will hatch a chick so enfeebled in construction that no amount of petting or coaxing can induce it to live, but quite another to produce an egg so highly vitalized, that it will be sure to hatch a healthy young bird, bound to live under all circumstances. but this is not all the danger. the operator, though he may have good eggs, may be neglectful or ignorant, and the health of the young birds seriously injured during the hours of incubation; or he may have a defective machine which under no condition can turn out healthy birds. with healthy, vigorous parent stock, judicious care and food, there is no reason why good hatches of strong, healthy young birds may not be obtained, and the same matured with very little loss. natural and artificial duck culture. it is only within a few years that the public at large have become awake to the importance of the poultry interests in the country. formerly it was supposed to be of insignificant proportions compared to the beef and pork product. but recent statistics show that the poultry interests in magnitude not only exceed either of the above, but are vastly on the increase year by year. yet, strange to say, the supply, enormous as it is, does not keep pace with the demand. as a natural consequence, we are obliged to import millions of dozens of eggs from europe, and carloads of poultry of all descriptions from canada. (december 21, 1888, a train of twenty refrigerator cars loaded with dressed poultry, aggregating 200 tons, arrived in boston from canada,--$50,000 worth of dressed poultry at one shipment.) still the demand goes on. our large cities, which form the principal market for poultry and eggs, are growing larger every year. the rich men who inhabit them are growing richer and more numerous, and are always ready to pay the poulterer a good round price for a first-class article. good poultry has not only become an every day necessity to the well-to-do classes, but is a common article of diet at least six months of the year on the workingman's table. it is everywhere recognized by physicians as the best and most palatable, as well as the most wholesome and nutritious, of all our flesh diets. duck culture an important industry. duck culture now assumes a most important part in the poultry business, and yet, until within a few years, people did not suppose that ducks were fit to eat. but now the public appetite is fast becoming educated to the fact that a nice, crispy, roasted duckling of ten weeks old is not only a dish fit for an epicure, but is far ahead of either turkey, chicken or goose. as a natural consequence, the demand for good ducks is rapidly increasing. one of the principal poultry dealers in boston assured me that his sales of ducks had nearly doubled each season for the past five years. twenty years ago, when growing less than 1500 ducks yearly, i was obliged to visit the city markets personally and tease the dealers to purchase my birds in order to secure anything like satisfactory prices. now, with a ranch capacity of nearly 20,000 ducks yearly, i cannot fill my orders. pond or lake not necessary. the reason is very plain. formerly people supposed that ducks could not be successfully grown without access to either pond, stream or coast line. as a natural consequence, a large share of the birds sold in the markets were grown on or near the coasts, fed largely on fish, partially fattened, and were anything but a tempting morsel. for years there have been large establishments on the long island shores devoted to duck-culture. large seines and nets were used regularly to secure the fish on which the young birds were fed and fattened. these birds grew to a large size and attained a fine plumage, but, as might be surmised, their flesh was coarse and fishy. occasionally a person was found who relished these birds, but the majority of people preferred to eat their fish and flesh separately. now this is all changed. duck-culture of today is quite a different thing from the days of yore. then, the young birds were confided to the tender mercies of the old hen. now, the business is all done artificially. the artificially-grown, scrap-fed duckling of the interior is a far different bird from his fishy-fed brother of the coast. he has been educated to a complete indifference to water except to satisfy his thirst. taught to take on flesh and fat instead of feathers, his body is widened out and rounded off, and, when properly denuded of his feathers, is a thing of beauty. ducks in great demand for food. this sudden popularity of the duck in our markets, the great demand for them on the tables of our epicures, together with the immense profits realized from growing them, has naturally created quite an interest among poultry men; so much so that i am constantly flooded with letters filled with inquiries as to which is the best variety to raise, which are the best layers, if they can be hatched in incubators, what kind of buildings are necessary, the amount of profit realized,--in short, wishing me to give them the whole thing in detail, which, were one willing, it would be completely out of one's power to do. as there seems to be no work published in the country to meet this case and answer these queries, in pure self-defense, and through earnest persuasion of many friends, i shall, to the best of my ability, through this little treatise, endeavor to answer them, together with many other points which will naturally suggest themselves. i shall confine myself almost entirely to an exposition of the artificial method, giving my own experience in the business for the last thirty years in detail. in doing this, the most approved buildings will be (both for brooding and breeding) described in full, together with cuts of the egg in different stages of incubation, and the living and dead germ compared, and how to distinguish each, plainly told. just here let me say that a great deal of skepticism prevails among people in general and farmers in particular. they do not believe in the success of artificial poultry growing, or, indeed, of growing it in large numbers in any other way. as a proof of their assertions they will tell you that more than three-fourths of the people who attempt the business on a large scale make a complete failure of it. and it is the plain truth. there are few communities in this country, large as it is, but that, at some time in the past, has had a bogus incubator within its limits, or a good one that has been badly managed. the unfortunate experience of these men has spread for miles in all directions. there is but one verdict. the man is never condemned. the system is so denounced that a strong prejudice exists against all incubators, which it is difficult to combat. every town, too, has had its representative poultry man who has erected extensive building's with a view to growing poultry on a large scale in the natural way. he, too, has met with disaster. failure has attended his efforts, and the community is still more embittered against the whole thing, and the emphatic "it can't be done," meets you on every side. now, there is a cause for all this. where is it? in the men. they do not comply with the conditions of success, and failure is the result. we will endeavor to give some of the reasons why: nearly three-fourths of these people come from the city. now, city people have unfortunately imbibed the impression that the necessary amount of brains and executive ability required to successfully run a mercantile, manufacturing or broker's business in the city is largely in excess of that required to run a successful poultry or agricultural ranch in the country. raising poultry in the country. men who have impoverished themselves by repeated failures in the city come out to retrieve their fortunes by raising poultry in the country. they visit your place and see thousands of young ducklings of all sizes and ages, each one vieing with the other as to which will consume the most food. they are completely carried away with the sight. they question you closely in regard to the profit derived from the business, and then openly avow their intention of doing the same thing themselves. you advise beginning small, and meekly suggest the possibility of failure through inexperience. the incredulous smile that plays over their features informs you that advice is wasted. "why, haven't i read up all the poultry journals and got the whole thing down fine?" others, still, who, from close confinement at sedentary work in the city, are anxious to engage in a business which promises equally to restore their health as well as to provide them a livelihood. these invalids come out with their exhausted energies and dilapidated constitutions to engage in a business which, to insure success, requires a minuteness of detail and intensity of application second to none. they are unequal to the six or eight hours required of them on a revolving stool in the counting-room in the city, but are equal to the fourteen and sixteen hours indispensable to the poultry business in the country. is it strange that a large proportion of these men fail? others, still, come to us wishing to engage in the business, at the same time candidly acknowledging their complete ignorance and inexperience. they frankly state their circumstances. they are poor, with families to support, and are not afraid of work, throwing themselves, as it were, upon one's mercy. they seek a good, healthy and fairly profitable occupation in which they can cultivate the physique and morals of their children away from the temptations of city life. now you take kindly to such men; readily forfeit any advantages which may accrue to yourself through want of candor on your part, gauge their calibre, and to the best of your ability measure their chances of success, and give them the best advice you can, which advice usually is to begin small,--say with one machine, buildings in proportion, and increase their plant as their experience and judgment dictates. raise ducks and chicks. but the reader will say: "what has all this to do with duck-culture?" simply this: it is to give the would-be poultry enthusiast some idea of what he has to contend with before he begins. to convince him that this is no child's play--that the care of young ducks and chicks means early hours and late. the closest confinement and application is required for at least six months of the year, and if he is at all afraid of hard work or of soiling his fingers, he had better stop where he is. the theory that the poultry business furnishes a good occupation for little boys and girls, superannuated old men and invalids, has long since exploded. we advise people to secure a fair share of health before they begin and then they will be sure to keep it. as an inducement to all, i would say that there is nothing in the way of farm industry or any other legitimate occupation which will at all compare with the profits obtained from poultry when artificially conducted. there are, however, a few notable exceptions in favor of watered railroad stock, bogus mining shares, patent medicines, and the business done by our bank cashiers when guaranteed a safe transit through to canada. i would advise all contemplating the poultry business to combine the growing of ducks and chicks together, for the reason that more profit can be realized from both than from either alone, because they do not necessarily interfere with each other, and the same buildings and machinery can be utilized for both. the brooding-house should be filled with chicks in november and december, which they will have outgrown by february, when the building will be required for ducklings. the ducklings, strange to say, though two months younger, will be ready for market as soon as the chicks (provided the latter are held for roasters, as they should be) and they will both be in the market in time to command the highest prices. this is what the poulterer should always cater for, and machinery alone will enable him to do it. he who expects to incubate with old hens during the winter will surely get left. but more of this hereafter. select a good site. the first thing for one to do (if he is not already located), is to select a good site. it should have a gradual slope to the east or south, enough for natural drainage. no matter how poor the land, it will be rich enough before your fowls get through with it. i need not say that in those regions where snow lies upon the ground four or five months of the year, the conditions are not as favorable for the poultry grower as near the coast line, where snow, though a frequent visitor, remains but a few weeks or days at a time. in the one case it means close confinement to the fowls a great part of the winter, with want of exercise and consequent want of action in the digestive organs. the food is not assimilated, the fowls become debilitated, and though they may give a fair share of eggs, these eggs can seldom be depended upon to hatch. it is true, the active poulterer may overcome this in a measure by clearing away the snow for ten or fifteen feet in front of his buildings after each storm, and by a free use of barn chaff and chopped straw induce his fowls to go out on sunny days, but all this increases his work and makes the conditions against him. i simply mention these facts, assuming that where a man has his choice of locations, these hints may have their proper weight in the matter. advantages with ducks. the same rule holds good in a measure with breeding ducks, though not in so great a degree. for instance, your hen when closely confined seems to lose her ambition, and spends a large part of her time on the perches, apparently indifferent to all sublunary things. not so your duck. she is in constant motion, no matter how small her quarters. no meditation for her. indeed, the days seem too short for her to exercise in, and so she keeps it up through a great part of the night. her greatest ambition seems to be to distribute the few quarts of water you have given her for drink, evenly all over the pen you have just covered with dry, finely-chopped straw, and make it as sloppy as possible, and it is astonishing in how short a space of time she will succeed in doing it. again, snow and ice are the aversion of the hen. she cannot be induced to step in either except under pressure of circumstances. not so your duck. she likes nothing better than to be out in a snow bank during a thaw, and if she can only work it up into the color and consistency of mud it suits her exactly. she does not mind the cold if she can only keep her feet warm. she is clothed with an impenetrable coat of feathers and an equally thick coat of down. she does not take kindly to confinement in a building and will utter her constant protest, and like the average school boy of ten prefers to suffer from the cold outside to being comfortable in. therefore, the main point in breeding early ducks and erecting buildings for the same, next to supplying them with the right kind of food, is to keep their feet warm. cold feet affect the winter laying of the duck the same as a frozen comb affects the hen. it stops the egg production at once. locate near a railroad. your plant should be located on a line of railroad, in direct communication with one or more of our great city markets, and not too far from the station, as you will necessarily be in frequent and close communication with that. arrange the buildings. to secure good room in front, also good drainage, and especially with a view to reducing the labor to a minimum, both inside and out. always remember that the labor is the most expensive part of the poultry business. now is the time for forethought and caution--save all the steps, all the work you can. you will never suffer from want of exercise, if your fowls do. i never knew a case of gout in a man in the poultry business in my life. it is well, also, when arranging a poultry plant, to make provision for future contingencies, so that should one in the course of time and experience wish to increase his plant and the size of his buildings longitudinally he will have plenty of room to do it, by simply moving the end of his building out as far as he wishes and filling in between. i have been obliged to do this several times in the course of my experience, and have the past fall built a double brooding house 250 feet long by 16 feet wide. one important point in erecting poultry buildings is the difficulty in building them, warm, cheap, and rat-proof. formerly i built stone foundations on which were placed the buildings, cementing the stone work to the sill carefully inside and out. this proved in the end not only an expensive but a very unsatisfactory arrangement, for cement it as one would the action of the frost would always part the sill from the foundation and admit the cold air from all around just where it should be kept warm. i have since hit upon a plan which has not only met the case but is comparatively inexpensive. place posts, with one square side to them, about four feet apart, on which place the 2x4 inch sill. set these posts in the ground so that the tops rise but one inch above the surface, with the flat side exactly horizontal and perpendicular to the inside of the sill. then sink a hemlock board twelve or fourteen inches wide into the ground inside of the building, and immediately in front of the two-inch sill, until the upper edge is flush with the upper side of the sill, nailing it firmly thereto, filling up inside nearly to a level of the top of the sill. this gives a warm, cheap foundation on which the frost does not act. hemlock, too, seems to have an affinity for moisture and will last in that condition from eight to ten years, when it can be easily renewed. this arrangement is also comparatively rat-proof, as a hemlock board is a rat's aversion. it does not agree with their teeth. they cannot possibly dig under during the frozen months of the year, and as it affords them no concealment they do not care to, during the warm season. the outside plan of a breeding and brooding house with the exception of a little more glass in the latter, should be precisely the same both for ducks and ducklings. the internal arrangements can be made to suit. as i shall give a full description with cuts of this building later, i will now merely give the manner in which it should be arranged as a good breeding-house for ducks. this building should be fifteen feet wide and any length required. it should have an uneven double roof, five-foot posts in the rear and four foot in front. about one-quarter of this front should be glass. there should be a walk the entire length of the building three and one-half feet wide. the main body of the building should be divided into pens twenty feet long, by either lath or wire two feet high. the walk should be separated from the pens by laths three inches apart, to allow the birds to feed and water from the walk. this method simplifies the labor very much, as it enables the operator to load his barrow, travel the whole length of a 200-foot building and feed and water 500 ducks in a few minutes. this arrangement has many other advantages besides, as it permits the birds to feed and water readily from the walk without being able to waste either, or mix the contents of food and water-dishes with filth. it also prevents the birds from sopping the straw in the bottom of their pens, or of soiling their white plumage, both of which they are bound to do if possible, and as the duck, especially the pekin, is a very timid bird, this plan familiarizes her with the appearance of the attendant without bringing her into actual contact with him. use half the pens for feeding purposes. one-half or ten feet of the twenty-foot pens should be utilized for feeding purposes. the lower board of this slat partition should not be more than three inches wide and should rest upon the ground so the birds can readily feed over it. as this ten-foot partition is but two feet high, the attendant can readily step over it to pick up a stray egg occasionally. six feet of this partition should be portable and secured with a groove or button so it can be easily removed to allow the entrance of a barrow in cleaning out the pens; this should be done when the birds are out, never when they are in. the remaining ten feet of the pen should be used for nest boxes, which can be fifteen inches square and one foot high. a board four inches wide may be fastened in front to prevent the nest material from being drawn out. this latter may be composed of finely cut hay or chaff. this must be perfectly dry, as the duck while laying will work it all over and cover her eggs carefully, which as they are pure white, become easily soiled and stained; this will necessitate washing unless things are kept dry and clean. this is a vital point with us, as it never did seem as if a filthy egg would hatch as well as a clean one. i abominate a machine filled with filthy eggs; it actually hurts my feelings to handle them. these nests should be covered closely and the partition above them be correspondingly high, as the birds will often mount upon the boxes. the back of the nest boxes next the walk should be closed with a board hinged below so that the attendant can let it down readily and secure the eggs from the walk. the room for mixing feed. some twelve feet of this breeding-house may be utilized as a cook and mixing room, and must necessarily be a little higher posted than the rest of the building,--say, two feet higher. this cookroom, with boiler, is an essential thing in a duck-house. unlike hens, they do not take kindly to hard food and whole grain. their digestive organs, in many points, are different from the hens, and they do not assimilate hard food readily. they require more vegetable food, and those vegetables must be cooked,--but more about this hereafter. of course, this building should be sweet and clean, and must be well deodorized; for, though ducks do not generate vermin like other fowl, and are not subject to as many diseases, or as readily affected by thermal changes,--in fact, a good driving rainstorm is their delight,--yet they will not thrive when confined in filthy quarters. it engenders a morbid appetite, impairs digestion, and your bird is poor before you know it. this, of course, arrests the egg production at once. i wish here to impress upon the breeder the absolute necessity of the careful handling and feeding of his birds; and, when necessary, handle very gently, always taking the bird by the neck. this is very essential, because the bones of a well-bred, well-fatted duck seem wholly disproportioned to the size and weight of his body, and we have often seen a wing broken or a leg disjointed by the convulsive efforts of the bird to escape when caught by those members through the carelessness of the attendant. the timidity of the pekin is proverbial. you should move quietly among your layers if you would have them thrive, as constant agitation and disquietude will surely debilitate them and reduce their flesh. i have known a pair of heavy exhibition birds to lose a pound per day during their confinement the first four days of exhibition, and to be eight pounds lighter than they were ten days before when started for the show. their recuperative powers are equally wonderful. i have often seen pekin ducks, after having produced one hundred eggs in nearly as many days, on evincing a desire to sit, and being somewhat reduced in flesh, when shut up in a yard with drakes and well fed, in less than a week commence her regular contribution of an egg per day. water not needed. the majority of people have the impression that water to bathe in is essential to secure fertility in duck eggs, but it is a great mistake. my ducks never see water, the year round, except to drink. they are confined in yards 24x100 feet, some forty in each yard, twenty-four feet being the size of the pens inside of the breeding house. they are confined in these yards for nine months, or till august 1, when they are removed in order that the land may be disinfected. this is done by plowing and growing a crop of barley or rye, when the land is ready for the ducks again. free range unnecessary. i am constantly experimenting to see if there are defects in my system. a few years ago i had thirty breeding-yards devoted to ducks. i wished to ascertain the difference in egg production and percentage of fertility between ducks yarded close and those with free range, the feed and other conditions being the same. one lot of fifty ducks were allowed the range of a five-acre lot, in addition to their own yard. they ranged in common with our cows, there being plenty of grass. another lot of seventy-five were allowed the range of the whole premises, with the same feed and care as the eight yards confined. the latter were liberally supplied with all the green and vegetable food needed. the egg production and the fertility of each were carefully noted. i was much surprised to find that the difference was very little, and that in favor of the birds confined. the mode of feeding. differs with the season of the year. during the autumn and early winter months feed twice each day about equal quantities of corn-meal, wheat-bran, and boiled turnips and potatoes, with about ten per cent. of ground beef scrap thrown in. at noon, give a small amount of dry food, composed of equal quantities of cracked corn, oats, and wheat. when the birds commence laying, as they will about january 1st, gradually increase the quantity of meal and animal food, proportionally decreasing the amount of bran. the pekin duck. is my favorite. i have experimented carefully during the last thirty years with all the larger breeds, crossing them in every conceivable way to obtain the best results, and am perfectly satisfied with the pekins. i am now through experimenting, and as i grow nearly 20,000 ducklings yearly, can hardly afford to guess at it, as one cent per bird makes a difference of over $200. in my receipts,--one cent per pound, a difference of over $1200. it is readily seen that i can only afford to use the bird that will grow the greatest number of pounds of flesh in the shortest space of time. nor is this all. it must be the bird that will give you the first eggs of the season, as this will enable you to get your birds on the market when they will command the highest price, as there is more clear profit from one early bird than from three later ones. this will be the more readily understood when it is known that the maximum price paid for early birds is thirty cents per pound in boston and new york, the minimum price for late ones eighteen cents, the cost of production being the same for both. [illustration: pekin ducks.] the pekin combines the best points. the pekin is the only bird that will cover all these points. it has two slight defects,--its extreme timidity and its heavy, coarse voice, which it does not scruple to use when congregated in large numbers. the former can be easily overcome by careful handling. but to off-set these defects the pekin will not only produce the first eggs of the season, but by far the greatest number of any of the breeds, with one exception, the indian runner. they mature earlier, are more hardy and domestic in their habits, never wandering far, and always returning to the coops at night. they are not mischievous, and require less water than either of the other breeds. my birds have for generations been bred in dry yards, with simply water to drink, and all desire for it for other purposes seems to have been bred out of them. when allowed their freedom in the fall, the flocks never visit the brook, fifteen or twenty rods distant, and when driven there occasionally for the purpose of purifying their feathers, get out again just as soon as possible. indeed, after a water bath their feathers cling to their bodies, and they present the same bedraggled appearance that the old hen did many years ago after one had immersed her in a water-barrel to cure her propensity for sitting. a wealthy new yorker ordered a dozen of my best ducks, a year or two ago. in a few weeks he wrote that he wished to return them, as they did not answer his purpose; "for," said he, "i have an artificial lake on my lawn, near my piazza, and i wanted these ducks to disport in the water for the pleasure of my wife and children, and they will not go in the water at all unless i drive them in with a whip, and i have to stand guard over them all the time, as they get out the moment my back is turned." i wrote him in return that had i known he wanted the ducks for their aquatic performances, i should have recommended the common puddle duck, when he would have had as much trouble to get them out of the water as he had to get the pekins in. feathers are pure white. another advantage of the pekin over the other breeds is their pure white, elastic feathers which are largely mixed with down. these feathers readily command from forty to fifty cents per pound, and as the reader can see, are no mean source of income, especially when the birds are grown in large numbers. these birds, as their name indicates, originated in china. they are large, beautiful birds, of a proud, erect carriage, with pure white plumage outside. the inside feathers are slightly cream colored. the neck is long and gracefully curved; the head long and finely shaped, with a full bright eye. the legs and beak are of a very dark orange, and form a fine contrast to the pure white feathers. the minimum weight of our birds when matured is about fourteen pounds per pair, while the very heaviest will tip the scales at twenty-two pounds. my first experience with ducks commenced more than forty years ago. we used the common puddle ducks and grew them for the city market. the ducks were very small and so were the profits. they were fed but little and allowed full range, consequently the home ties were not strong. those ducks followed the little brook in the pasture through swamps and marshes for half a mile in either direction, wholly regardless of farm limits. if we expected any eggs from those ducks they should have been safely housed at night. this task devolved upon the boys. now our paternal head, though a kind and indulgent parent (unfortunately for us), had the impression that boys were made to work, and work we did. now, what boy of ten or twelve years had not rather chase ducks through the mud in the swamp than to wield the hoe among the weeds in the corn field? it was our recreation, our chief solace and delight through those long, hot summer days--the anticipation of that duck hunt in the evening. i think our extraordinary love for the duck hailed from this date. later on we used a cross between a rouen and cayuga. this cross made a much larger and better market bird. the flesh was better flavored. they produced more eggs and began earlier in the spring, consequently prices and profits slightly improved. these birds did not stray as far, but were as fond of mud and water as their little predecessors. it was a pleasing and comical sight to see three or four hundred of these ducklings of all ages, when first let out in the morning, run down the hill in their eager haste to reach the swamp, a part of them right side up, then rolling over and over on their broadsides; others still reversing themselves end for end down the steep incline, apparently a matter of supreme indifference how, so long as they reached the mud first. these ducklings always returned at night with their numbers more or less depleted, as they were the legitimate prey of skunks, minks, weasels and mud turtles; and if we reached the summer's end with sixty per cent. of the original number we were well satisfied. all this has been changed. we have learned a number of points on duck culture since then. first, that all losses by vermin can be easily avoided by yarding your little birds at home and keeping them under your own eye. second, that mud and water externally applied are not essential to their growth and well-being, and that in fact they will thrive better without. ready for market 3 months earlier. third, that it is not necessary to keep your birds till they are six months old in the fall and then put them on the market when it is sure to be glutted, but much better to market them at ten weeks, when they are nearly as heavy, and you are sure to get more than double the price, as well as save three or four months extra feed. there are many other points connected with this thing which the novice must ponder carefully before he begins, as a slight mistake in the beginning often means a great loss in the end. as pioneers in the business we have for many years been carefully experimenting with the different breeds, different treatment and variety of food. we have met with many failures, suffered some loss, but with a gradual improvement through it all, which has been very encouraging to us, and though we do not claim perfection, yet we are now reaping a rich harvest compared to which our former losses are simply insignificant. it is a source of gratification to know that success has at last crowned our efforts. when we look back forty years--when year after year chronicled failure and our best efforts met with loss--when we were the butt, ridicule, and laughing stock of the whole community; when we were assured again and again that we were fighting against nature and never could succeed, and repeated failures only seemed to confirm that assertion,--and compare it with the present, when we can grow our birds by the thousands, regulate the growth, control the mortality, and grow flesh or feathers at will; have shortened the precocity, increased fecundity, and even educated the birds to an aversion for water, which was formerly their home; we have completely reversed the order of things and taught our birds to reproduce at a season of the year when all nature is against them, we can safely feel the victory is won. we hope that our readers will not only benefit by the experience we shall present, but that many of them will be able to take this and carry it on where, according to the natural course of things, we shall be obliged to leave it. we are no longer young, the infirmities and decrepitude of age are slowly creeping upon us and admonish us that our days of research are nearly over, and we find that our life is all too short. but there is a satisfaction in knowing that others will take this thing up where we leave off and carry it on to the end. the superiority of artificial poultry growing. we predict a great future for artificial poultry growing. it is yet in its infancy. the time will come when it will gradually supersede many of the regular farm crops on the sterile soil of new england, when every farmer will have his proper complement of poultry appliances, and when you can prove to the average farmer that the capital necessary to run a poultry plant (which will with less labor ensure him a greater income than that from his whole farm) is less than one-fourth of that required for any other farm investment. you will begin to see him scratch his head to evolve ideas. the beginner in starting, should recollect that this is a business of detail and that small things must be taken into account. it is not only a very essential thing to choose the best breeding stock that can be had, but, all other conditions being the same, to select the color of their feathers. we have always had a predilection in favor of white birds, for the feathers (which are no small item in ducks) command nearly double the price of colored ones, and are always more saleable. again, we must cater for the market with young birds, and every one knows that young birds are more or less addicted to pinfeathers, many of which it is very difficult to remove, as they have secured a lodgment just under the skin, but have not found their way through. now a dark pinfeather is a blot upon the fair surface of a fine chicken or duck, and the thrifty housewife in selecting her dinner will always leave the pins behind. she does not like a variety of colors in her duckling, if she does in her dress. the dealer, aware of this peculiarity of the ladies (who, by the way, form a large share of his customers) will, if he buys at all, cut you on the price. unfortunately we started in with dark birds, but it did not matter at that time, as the pekin had not been imported, and there were very few aylesburys in the country. we were surrounded by vermin of all kinds. our young birds disappeared mysteriously, and in such large numbers that we were nearly discouraged. hawks do not trouble ducks, but rats, weasels and minks developed such a fondness for them as to completely atone for any neglect on their part. we made a free use of steel traps, guns, and phosphoretic poison. the battle raged for two years; at the end of that time i think it would be difficult to find one of the above-mentioned vermin one-fourth of a mile from the place. it was a great relief; our ducklings could range at will, even be left out during the night, and still the full complement appear at the dough-troughs in the morning. do not have neighbors too near. another source of discomfort was our neighbors' cats. now, we are eminently social in our disposition, and enjoy our neighbors' company very much. we like to spend a social evening with them and have them do the same by us. but not so their cats. we never interchanged civilities with them, their visits were too ill timed and frequent. our ducklings were carried off in large numbers, and in pure self-defense we shot the cats. of course, this made trouble in our neighbors' families, especially the female portion, by whom it was promptly resented. the principle of "touch my dog, touch me," was illustrated here in all its force. no amount of provocation ever justified us in their eyes in killing their cats. with pater familias it was different. his affections were not engaged. he recognized the necessity of the thing, laughed it off, and said it was all right. now, cats breed fast and are very prolific, and our neighbors were plenty, and we are unwilling to state the amount of our losses from those sources, for fear our veracity would be doubted. we endured this sort of annoyance for some twelve years, but made up our minds that if we ever selected another poultry ranch we would locate our neighbors at a distance. we have done so, and now have no trouble from this source. we found that the cayuga duck was a more precocious bird than the rouen, and were better layers. the eggs were more fertile. they were also much hardier, and, as a consequence, there was less mortality among the young. but they were rather small in size, dressing only seven to nine pounds per pair. the rouens were nearly four pounds heavier, but had their disadvantages. they were not so productive in eggs, and those did not give us the same percentage of hatch, while the mortality among the little ones was much greater. we do not like to condemn any variety of birds on one trial, as we may be unfortunate in our selection of a strain, but our subsequent experience with these birds fully confirms the above; and though they are a large, attractive bird, we do not consider them as hardy as either pekin, aylesbury or cayuga. [illustration: cayuga ducks.] we conceived the plan of crossing this bird with the cayuga, with a view of increasing the size, not knowing whether the good or the negative qualities of the two birds would prevail. we were very much pleased with the results of this cross, as it gave us all the good qualities of the cayuga with the largely increased size of the rouen. it gave us also a good table bird, the flesh of which was far better flavored than that of the puddle duck. we made the duck business then supplementary to that of growing chickens. our chicks were hatched out early in the winter in order to secure the high prices. our ducks during the spring and summer were not marketed until fall. we did not expect those ducks to lay till the first of april, and they did not disappoint us. if anyone had told us that young ducks could be made to lay at four or five months old, and that we could have our young broods out by the thousands at that time, we should have called him insane. we then gave our ducklings free range, and, as a consequence, lost large numbers of them from eating injurious insects, which, in their haste, they did not stop to kill, and paid the penalty with their lives. [illustration: rouen ducks.] now, the genuine duckling is proverbially stupid. he has an immense faculty for getting himself into trouble, without the first idea as to how he shall get out. as, for instance, we had taken up some old fence-posts one day, and carelessly left the holes (some two feet deep) unfilled. when feeding time came at night we missed many of our little ducklings, and, at the same time, heard a great squeaking, which we could not locate. we finally traced it to the post-holes, which we found nearly full of young ducklings, not much the worse for the adventure. when we look back at the difficulties with which we had to contend, and the losses we sustained in consequence, i often wonder that we were not discouraged. it was blunder after blunder, repeated always with the same results. we had very little idea of the systematic care and regular food required to ensure against loss and enable the young birds to attain a weight in a few weeks which we supposed required almost as many months. we still had the impression that water was essential to the welfare of the birds, both old and young, and that eggs would not be fertile unless copulation took place in the water. so we built a tank for use during the dry season of the year (which held about a hogshead), and cemented it thoroughly. this tank we laboriously filled with water for the birds to sport in, but it did not work, as it soon became so offensive that we were obliged to renew it at least every three days, so that we soon became tired of it, and once more allowed the ducks the liberty of the swamp. we never obtained more than half of the number of eggs that we now get from our pekins. about this time the aylesbury duck came under our notice, and we procured a number of them at once, as they came highly recommended, but they did not meet our expectations. they were a very pretty bird to look at, and their feathers were more valuable, but there the advantage ended, for the strain we obtained was a trifle smaller than the mongrels we had been breeding,--rather more delicate to rear, and, worse than all, we found it almost impossible to pick them. in all our experience before or since we have never seen anything to equal those birds. the tenacity of those feathers was exasperating. every one was bound to retain its complement of flesh. of course the birds were so disfigured that the most of them were retained for family use. it was no use to think of scalding them,--that would not only seriously injure the feathers, but would completely spoil the birds for boston market, as scalded birds are rejected at once and classed with cheap western fowls. while going the rounds of boston market one pleasant june day, shortly after our experience with the aylesburys, we noticed some fine young birds nicely dressed, that had evidently snow-white plumage. as this was before the advent of iced poultry, we supposed the birds had come from the regions of the far south, and our curiosity was excited. we interviewed the dealer and was surprised to learn that the birds were grown to the north of us, and that they were the pekin ducks we had heard of for a year or two, but had taken no stock in. yet here they were in the market, while ours were toddling about at home less than half grown. here was a revelation. we procured some eggs of this party, at once, and in due time hatched out sixty lively young ducklings. they were tended with the utmost care and not one was lost. we were very much interested in these little fellows, they were so hardy, and you could fairly see them grow. it occurred to me at this time to try and experiment with these ducklings, keep a correct account of all food consumed by them, and ascertain what they cost per pound when ready for market. the average weight was taken from the rejected drakes which we did not need for breeding purposes, and which were culled out and sent to market at ten weeks old. we were very much surprised to find the cost to us (exclusive of the cost of eggs) was about 4-3/4 cents per pound. we could hardly credit our own eyes. the calculation was made again and again with the same result. the same calculation was made a year later on two yards of some three hundred ducklings with a result obtained, when ready for market, of 5-1/4 cents per pound, including cost of eggs. [illustration: aylesbury ducks.] as i had long since left the paternal abode, and for years had ceased to superintend the establishments of others, and as the following experience will be entirely my own, i shall hereafter use the personal "i". it is needless to say that the figures arrived at from the calculations made of those ducks were startling. what! can i grow ducks in three months as cheaply as i can grow pork in a year, or beef in two years, and then get six times as much per pound for it after it is grown? yes, if figures tell the truth. can i afford longer to grow large crops of fruit and vegetables, working early and late, risking frosts and drouths, making a bare livelihood, when with one-tenth part of the labor and capital involved i can grow a crop which drouths and frosts do not injure, and make five times as much? no! i have not had a hog on my farm since i kept a kemp's spreader to work over the manure, and simply grow fruit and vegetables enough for feathered thieves and home consumption. another question arose: "what shall i do with my cows?" some sixteen or eighteen in number, bull, young stock, etc. my farm. now, i had become somewhat proud of my farm, as what man does not who had quadrupled its increase within ten years? i was cutting yearly some two hundred tons of hay on less than half that number of acres, and i knew that if i sold my cows i should, in some way, be obliged to get rid of my hay and that would mean disaster to the farm. there might be no decrease in acres, but there would be a sad diminution in the tons of hay. the result is, i keep cows for my own use. have built two new barns, each one hundred feet long, the basements of which are utilized for box stalls, accommodating sixty boarding horses. these convert my hay and grain (for which i receive the market price) into manure. this is all i expect and all i get. a while ago a gentleman from new york caught me hoeing in my onion patch. he expressed his astonishment at the size of the onions. (i now grow two or three hundred bushels yearly to supply my own and neighbors' wants, and just to keep my hand in.) said he: "your land seems well adapted to this crop." "yes, i have some twenty or thirty acres that are level, the soil is easily worked and friable, not troubled much with maggot, and, if properly handled, is about sure of a crop." "why don't you put it all into onions?" "i cannot afford to." "why," said he, "if our new york farmers had that land within twenty or thirty miles of new york city it would be worth $1,000 an acre, and they would make it pay twenty-five per cent. of that, too, every year." "possibly they could, but with one-tenth of the labor and capital employed i can raise ducks enough on one acre to buy all the onions i can raise on ten. if i am going to increase my capital and labor in any direction i should put it into ducks, not onions." he acknowledged that perhaps i was right, but at the same time thought it was poor economy to grow nothing but hay on such land as that. the muscovy duck. the muscovy duck as its name implies is a denizen of the mediterranean and is a beautiful bird, quiet and inoffensive in its habits, but cannot compare with the pekin either in fecundity or in market value. it cannot be induced to lay so early in the season as the pekin, thus forfeiting the high spring prices. the eggs require about the same time to incubate as the goose egg (five weeks) and they do not hatch well in an incubator. it is some three weeks longer in maturing than the pekin and does not command as high a price in the market by two cents per pound. i asked a prominent boston market man yesterday the reason for it. he said that the flesh was coarser than that of the pekin while the disparity in the size of the sexes made them very unpopular, for instance, while the drake will dress from eight to ten pounds the duck will rate but four or five pounds. said he, "i want none of them." there are two varieties of this bird, white and colored. the indian runner duck. this bird is of recent introduction, and while it can never be a first-class market bird on account of its small size and dark pins, it has many good points. its fecundity is wonderful. there is, perhaps, no bird that will excel it as an egg producer for market. its patrons are enthusiastic in its praise and claim an average yield of one hundred and seventy-five to two hundred eggs per year from each of their birds, but their small size, four to four and a half pounds, together with their dark pins, militates against their value as a market bird. i have always emphasized the point that size as well as fecundity is a necessary adjunct to a profitable market bird. it is no more trouble or risk to grow a large bird than a small one, while the market returns are often double. the large bird will always command at least two or three cents per pound more than a small one, as well as a more ready sale. the runner is a parti-colored bird. i was very much pleased with the pekin ducks. they not only layed some weeks earlier than any other breed i had ever kept, but were precocious, maturing earlier than either of the other breeds, excepting the cayugas, there being but little difference between the latter and the pekins, but the pekins laying some weeks sooner, it gave us control of the early spring markets, which are by far the most profitable of the year. disinfecting. my neighbors had become much interested in the business and often visited me, and were not backward in giving their opinions. they predicted failure for me, giving as reasons that the market would soon be glutted with so much of that kind of stuff, for poultry never could be as good grown in that unnatural way, and that if i kept on growing those ducks in the same yard, year after year, the land would eventually get poisoned, and then disease would clean me out. but i had thought this thing all over before laying out my yards. i knew that reversing land and cropping it would disinfect it, so a crop of ducks is always followed by a crop of something else; and thus i succeed each season in getting two crops of ducks and two crops of either rye, barley, or oats, so that the land has not been poisoned, and is still growing its complement of large, fat ducks every year, and as i have set it to plum trees, it is beginning to yield fine, luscious plums. neither is the market glutted, as the demand is far in excess of the supply. the way of growing does not seem to be any objection, as the marketmen are willing to pay me, at least, two to four cents per pound more than they can possibly get for those grown in the natural way. perhaps a word here would not be amiss regarding the merits of artificially and naturally-grown poultry for fancy and market purposes. this is a vital question, and it is as well for the public to fully understand this thing now, as well as its origin. there is many a person who has been thoroughly convinced of the great advantages and the economy of the artificial over the natural way of doing it, and who would gladly have started in the business, but was deterred by the prevailing opinion that artificially-grown birds were always deficient in plumage, and could never win at a show, and that the flesh was inferior for table use and could not find a ready sale. it is as well to explode this thing now, and expose its utter fallacy. there is not a shadow of doubt but that much poor poultry has been put upon the market by people who have attempted its culture in the artificial way by growing hundreds of ducks and chicks in the same limited space that they formerly used for a dozen with an old hen. these, of course, could not be otherwise than poor and the mortality great. another reason: the fancy business in poultry is fast being overdone. the best breeds are now scattered far and wide over the entire country. there is not the demand for them that there has been, because good birds can be obtained nearer home. many of our old and well-known fanciers are making frantic but vain efforts to keep their business up to its former standard. they have suffered considerably from competition with artificially-grown birds, and they roundly assert that it is an unnatural method, that the conditions are not right, that it affects the growth and plumage of the bird in such a manner as to preclude its ever taking a first-class premium at our shows. now if they can convince the public that naturally grown birds can capture premiums, and they grow all their birds in the natural way, it is easy to see how their trade would be increased. now, i never could see how the old hen could impart vigor to her chicks by imparting lice, or how the increased contributions of filth from the old hen, united to that from the chicks, could ever make the conditions more favorable than that from the chicks alone. it can no longer be denied that the artificially-grown fowls are fast coming to the front,--a place which they already occupy in the market. knapp bros., fabius, n. y., the greatest prize winners on white leghorns in the country, grow their birds artificially. we could mention many others who are doing equally well. our own pekin ducks have, for many generations, been hatched and grown artificially, and today, for size, symmetry, and beauty of plumage they stand unrivaled in north america. they have won first from canada to the gulf, and have never been defeated. three times during the past ten years we have been obliged to enlarge market boxes to accommodate the increased size of our birds; and yet we have bred only from our own stock. a number of times i have procured winning birds at the pennsylvania and western state fairs, with a view to a change of blood, only to cast the birds aside on their arrival here, as i could not breed from them without deteriorating my flock in size. if this is the result of artificial growing and of in-breeding, i shall keep right on. in-breeding. i have always selected the very choicest and best from the many i raised for breeding stock, and the result has been a gradual increase of size. i have seen many persons who, from a mistaken idea of introducing new blood, have reduced both the size and quality of their stock. let it be here understood that a man who keeps but one drake and a few ducks is breeding-in fast. but the one who keeps a thousand in different yards can breed many years with impunity, because the intermingling of blood is exactly in inverse ratio to the numbers kept. i have repeatedly heard prominent marketmen in new york and boston say that my artificially-grown poultry, both in chicks and ducks, were the best that they ever handled.... i will endeavor to secure their signatures to that effect, as convincing proof of this, as i wish the public to know the truth as it is. i was then breeding pekins exclusively, and found the business while growing them was far more profitable than ever before, and accordingly increased my incubating and brooding capacity, and instead of growing 1,500 to 2,000 ducklings, grew from 10,000 to 20,000. this was done during the early spring and summer, the machines and brooders being used for early chicks during the winter. i had observed that, during my experience with chicks, that crossing with the best breeds always made better layers and better market birds than either of the breeds from which they originated; also, that the first cross was always the best, and that continued breeding from crosses is sure to deteriorate both in size and quality. crossing. i conceived the idea of procuring some of the best stock possible of rouens, aylesburys, cayugas, and crossing them on the pekins, with the object of increasing the size and precocity. i experimented first with cayugas, and crossed both ways, using both pekin and cayuga drakes, and, in order to test the experiment fairly, the mongrel eggs were hatched in the same machine, the young birds grown in the same yards, subjected to the same care and feed, with the pekins. the cayuga cross was very satisfactory, with two exceptions. they were fine, plump birds, took on fat readily, and matured as early as the pekins, while the mortality was not more than one per cent. on either, but we found that the skin was dark, the dark pins, when there were any, showing very plainly beneath. these birds were sent to market in the same boxes with the pekins. our dealers to whom we shipped allowed us the same price for them as for the pekins, as there were but few of them, but had they all been of that color would have been obliged to cut them two cents per pound on the price. this was enough for me, especially as i found that the feathers commanded but little more than half the price of the pure white feathers of the pekins. the experiment, though conducted in the same manner, with the rouens, was somewhat different in result. there was a great loss from those mongrels. they evidently inherited the same weak constitutions of the rouens. they had not the vitality of the pekins, while they required at least three weeks longer to mature. this latter alone was sufficient to condemn them for all market purposes, especially when subjected to the same discount on dark pins and feathers as the cayugas. this was sufficient to discard both breeds for my use as market birds. aylesburys. but i expected great things from the aylesburys. i procured the best ducks to be had in the country, while i used imported drakes from the best prize-winners in england, and i have never yet seen those drakes equaled in size; and i was unusually careful in this experiment, because i knew that the english breeders claimed for their birds a superiority in all the points essential for a good market bird, namely, delicacy and flavor of flesh, size, precocity, and greater egg production,--laying special stress on their hardiness and vitality. i bred those birds clear and crossed them, carefully noting the result. our first batch of pekins and those crosses numbered about 300, nearly equally divided. these were mixed and confined in two yards. for the first two weeks there was no perceptible difference, when gradually the young pekins began to outgrow the crosses, the difference increasing with age. the former were very even in size, the latter irregular, while the mortality was as six to one in favor of the pekins. when we began to kill those birds the pekins were all in the market at the end of eleven weeks, while the crosses remained in the yards fully one week behind. the weight was in favor of the pekins about one pound per pair. the same difficulty existed as in former years--the tenacity of the feathers. the pickers grumbled, while the birds were more or less disfigured. i notified the dealers of the breeds of those ducks, and of the claim made by the english breeders, and wished them to ascertain if possible if there was any difference in favor of the aylesburys. they said their customers found no preference, for themselves they preferred the pekins on account of the larger size and finer appearance of the dressed birds. but i found it made a vast deal more difference than that to me. one pound per pair on 2,000 pairs of ducklings, at an average price of twenty-five cents per pound, made a difference of more than $500 to me; especially the extra ten days required to mature the aylesburys cost more than the feed for extra pound of flesh grown upon the pekins. i do not keep aylesburys now, and have not since that experiment; i never shall again. precocity. there is one point which i wish to impress, which is too often overlooked, and yet is of the most vital importance to the poultry grower, and that is the early maturity of his market birds. i often hear growers say that as there is very little change in the poultry market during nine months of the year, and as they do not contend for the early spring prices anyway, if their birds are three or four weeks longer in maturing it does not matter. does is not? i have always contended that it requires just so much to sustain life in either bird or animal, and the profit consists in what we can get them to consume and digest over and above that; and if the time required to do this is protracted longer than is necessary, it is done at the expense of the grower. if it takes ten weeks to grow five pounds of flesh on one bird and fourteen weeks on another the one must necessarily cost more than the other per pound, simply because you have to sustain life four weeks longer in one case than in the other, and that cannot be done for nothing. that is why, though i can easily grow a pound of duck for six cents, i must have eight cents to grow a pound of chicken, because the ducks will take on six pounds of flesh in ten weeks, while the chicken requires twenty weeks to obtain the same size. these appear trivial matters when a person grows only a few dozen fowls yearly, but when he makes a life business of it and grows fowls by the thousands, it is of the utmost importance. first-class breeding stock. the above shows the necessity of first-class breeding stock to start with. i do not mean fancy stock at all, as many of the points of excellence claimed by the american standard militate directly against the market value of the birds. a few years ago several men came here to buy pekin ducks for breeding stock. on looking at the birds and getting the price, one man said: "those are the best birds i ever saw. i want thirty of the best birds you have." another said: "they are fine birds, but i cannot afford to pay two dollars for a duck; have you no cheaper birds?" "yes, i have some later birds--culls from which the rest have been selected. they are not as large as these. my late birds never attain the size of the earlier-hatched ones, and they will not lay quite as early. you can have your choice of these at one dollar each, which is about their market value." he took those birds, and i consider when he made that choice that he threw away more than $100 of his first season's work alone, for, with a fair share of success he might easily expect to raise 100 young birds from each of his breeding ducks, and as the birds he chose were at least one-third lighter than those he rejected, their progeny would not be as heavy at a marketable age by at least one pound per bird. the excess in cost to him, had he bought the better birds, would have been but one cent on each of the young birds he raised. he lost, on making the choice he did, more than twenty cents on each bird, and this is not all; those birds will be small for generations to come. he never can get them up to the standard of the others. they will go upon the market as small birds, and as such, command at least two cents per pound less than the larger ones; in fact, his losses in this transaction will represent a large share of the profits. how to begin. i will now suppose that the breeder has secured his stock, erected his building, and is ready for business. the next thing is to feed them well, keep them warm and comfortable, giving them as great a variety of green food as is obtainable during the winter months, in order to induce winter laying and insure fertility of the eggs. this matter requires close attention, because the profits in one week of the early market will always equal the profits in four or five of the late. the proportion of the sexes in the early spring should be about one drake to five or six ducks. one point here i wish to emphasize particularly and that is in the selection of drakes. the drakes should be, at least, two months older than the ducks, as the latter will mature some two or three months earlier and begin their egg production two or three months before the drakes are ready for breeding. as a consequence, we always select our february hatched drakes for breeding purposes. this comes a little hard, as these birds will average to dress seven to nine pounds at ten weeks old and will always bring, at least, 30c per pound at that time in the market, making them worth about $2.50 each. would-be purchasers think we are crazy when we charge $3 each for these birds at eight months old, expecting us to keep them for six months and coop them for less than fifty cents. now this selection of early hatched birds is absolutely necessary for good profits, as early hatched, means early reproduction and these great profits can hardly be ignored. we sold thousands of birds the past spring for 30c per pound, having almost complete control of boston and new york markets for at least six weeks. later in the season, when many of the ducks are off duty from a desire to incubate, the proportion should be about one drake to ten ducks. be particular about this, as the eggs will be much more fertile if a part of the drakes are removed. the feeding boxes should be long and roomy; mine are 6x7 feet long, eight inches wide and three inches high. this is essential, as the birds are rapid eaters, and if there is not room, some will gorge themselves to repletion, while others will get but little. do not keep food by them, as that will clog their appetites, and always effects the egg production, as well as the condition of the birds. keep the feed clean. i have often visited poultry establishments where the food was lying around in all conditions,--in troughs, on the ground, trodden upon, mixed with excrement and filth; had become sour and offensive, so that the birds would not eat it. the attendant would go his rounds periodically and throw more food upon the already offensive mass; the owner looking on, passively complaining that his ducks did not lay and his ducklings would not fat. i require my men to go the rounds after feeding, and if there is any food left, to take it up clean. if this is insisted on they will soon learn to feed just what is required and no more. clean feeding is of the utmost importance, both for young and old birds, as neither will thrive from overfeeding, as it destroys the appetite completely. another essential thing is that ducks will not produce their proper quota of fertile eggs on hard food alone. the natural food of the duck is principally vegetable and animal, and is obtained in brooks, puddles, swales, and consists of flag, grass roots, small fish, pollywogs, etc. unlike the hen, the duck has no crop,--the passage or duct leading from the throat to gizzard direct, is very small compared to the size of the bird. consequently it does not assimilate or thrive on hard food. i am continually receiving letters from amateurs during the months of march and april, complaining that their ducks do not lay, at the same time saying that they give them all the corn they will eat. i write back suggesting soft food, giving ingredients and proportions. in an incredibly short space of time a postal will come to hand saying, "thanks, my ducks are all laying." success or failure in the poultry business often date their origin from just such trivial things as the above. so insignificant in themselves as to be entirely overlooked by the novice who, if he is persevering, will eventually discover both cause and remedy; but only through years of costly experiment and a loss of valuable time which he can never recall. how to feed breeding ducks for eggs. there should be quite a distinction between feeding ducks to obtain a supply of eggs and feeding them for market, as in one case the object is to lay on fat and the other is to furnish the most available supply of egg material. as before hinted, soft food is much more readily utilized in a duck's organization than a hen's. we make a habit of turning out our breeding ducks to pasture during the moulting season, housing them in the fall according to the nature of the season, say, from the middle of november to the first of december. we feed soft food morning and evening composed largely of bran with a little meal, keeping them purposely short to induce them to forage for themselves, but when the birds are housed this is all changed. they are then fed on equal parts of corn meal, wheat-bran and low-grade flour, with about twelve or fifteen per cent. of animal food. one fourth of this food should be composed of vegetables cooked--say, small potatoes, turnips, etc., with all the green rye and refuse cabbage they will eat. we feed this compound morning and evening with a little corn, wheat and oats at noon. feed all the birds will eat clean and no more. the birds, young and old, may be expected to lay in three weeks from the time they are housed. this part of the thing seems to be under perfect control. you turn in the proper variety of food and they cannot help turning out a generous supply of eggs. the fertility however, cannot, at this season of the year be so perfectly controlled, as the standard of fertility in the first eggs is apt to be very low, but soon comes to a high point. the fecundity of these birds is wonderful. as a general thing each bird can be depended upon for 140 eggs each season, and as the eggs always command from 5 to 10 cents per dozen more than those from hens it makes the pekin ducks more profitable for eggs alone than any other fowl. incubators. with the necessary buildings constructed and the stock selected, the next thing required is the incubator, for i do not suppose the modern poultry grower is going to do his incubating with hens, for the simple reason that he cannot afford to. hens show no desire to incubate when you want them to the most, or in time to command the high prices for ducks and chicks in the early spring, and this is attended with a loss of at least one-half of the season's profits. i often have letters filled with questions concerning incubators. which is the best incubator? can a person of ordinary intelligence run one successfully? do they require watching during the night? is there an incubator in the market today that will hatch as well as the average hen? and many more of like import. to the first i would say that modesty forbids a candid answer. there are objections to many machines, though the same do not apply to all. it does not become me to mention their failings. but first of all do not buy a cheap incubator, as the conditions to which the material of an incubator is exposed are of the severest kind. it must be exposed constantly to a temperature of 103 degrees, and that in an atmosphere surcharged with moisture; and unless the material of which the machine is constructed is of the choicest kind, well kiln-dried and put together, the chances are that it will warp out of shape, admit drafts of air and injure, if not destroy, the regulation. i do not think an incubator can ever be complete unless it is a double-cased machine. it requires that to effectually resist thermal changes. years of careful experiment, and of experience in the competitive show room have convinced me of the truth of this. extreme cold will affect the uniformity of heat in the egg-chamber of single-cased machines. imagine if you can a single-cased machine constructed of five-eighth inch stuff, with a temperature of 103 degrees inside, and that of freezing outside. how can the eggs at the extreme corners and the thin cold sides of that machine be as warm as those in the centre? of course that difference does not exist in warm weather, but that is the time when incubators are usually let alone and the business is given up to the old hen. now, i say this frankly, as much for the benefit of incubator manufacturers as for their customers. i have letters every day from parties ordering circulars and saying that they have used from one to three machines of different makes, denouncing the machines and their makers in the most emphatic terms as frauds. now, this is all wrong; one-half of the time you will find that it is the purchasers, not the makers, who are at fault. there are probably just as many honest incubator makers as there are in any other branch of business. but there is such a thing as a man being honest and yet ignorant. many of the manufacturers of incubators know very little about the first principles of artificial incubation. they have the idea that a simple heat regulator is all that is necessary to insure the success of an incubator, when in reality it is only one of the many requirements. i will enumerate some of the most essential points, viz.: heat regulation; uniformity of heat in egg-chamber; absolute control of heat by the operator on any given egg-tray; automatic moisture supply; accurate thermometers; thorough construction and good material to avoid warping and shrinkage, together with a safe lamp adjustment. there are many other minor points which will come up with care of machines. i am often asked, "why do so many fail to hatch with incubators?" i will answer by saying: "not because it is difficult; for i have always found it a far more difficult thing to grow ducks and chicks successfully after they are hatched, than it is to hatch them." doubtless everyone knows that an incubator, different from other machines, must run three weeks continually night and day, (and when filled with duck eggs, four weeks,) and preserve an even temperature all the while. some machines as described above, are not adapted to this business, and some men are not adapted to the use of machines even when they are good ones. they are not willing to bestow the little but intelligent and regular care required, and many times during the four weeks they will forget some of the most essential points, such as replenishing their lamps, or forget to attach the extinguishers, thus depriving the machine of all self-control, or they neglect to trim the lamps for days, and perhaps a week, allowing the wick to crust and the heat to decrease. others of nervous temperament will open their machines every fifteen minutes during the day and get up many times during the night to do the same thing, necessarily creating a great variation in the temperature of the machine. now, all these, when repeated often enough, mean disaster and grief. one man who had been very successful, said he liked the hatching very well, but there was too much confinement growing chicks and ducks, and he was not going to make a slave of himself any longer. another very young man who has been uniformly successful, and is running four large machines, said that the hatching and care of incubators was nothing, as he simply looked at his machines twice per day, but that the care of chicks and ducks was hard work; but there was more money in it than anything else he could do, and he should stick to it. another man, because his machine did not run to suit him, threw his boot at it, knocking the regulation all off, which he called upon me to duplicate. (this man has done better since and increased the number of his machines). so the reader will see that there are cranks even among the poultry men, and that many of them enter the poultry business simply because they are looking for an easy job,--a sad mistake on their part. i have always noticed that the man who knows the least, but is willing to acquire knowledge and follow instructions implicitly, is the man who generally succeeds. best place for incubators. having secured a good machine, the next thing is to locate it where it will give you the least trouble to run it, and at the same time do you the most good. the best place for this is either in a barn or house cellar or in some building partly under ground, for obvious reasons. though a good machine can be regulated to run in any temperature (provided it can generate heat enough), yet constant thermal changes of 30 or 40 degrees between night and day will necessitate regulating to meet them,--as the amount of flame required to run a machine in a temperature of 40 degrees, will be far in excess of that needed to run it in one of 70 degrees, for, though the change will be very slow in a nicely packed double cased machine, yet in time even that change will affect. this, of course, could be easily overcome with a little care, yet it is just as well to avoid all unnecessary care and trouble in the beginning; there will be still enough left to keep you thinking. in a common building above ground during the winter months it will often freeze around your machine, and in turning eggs in a freezing atmosphere do it as quickly as you can, as it will always cool your eggs perceptibly, and more or less derange the temperature of your machine. this is of course decidedly injurious and will more or less impair the hatch. now, this is a very important matter, and people do not give it sufficient consideration. it is even advocated by some incubator manufacturers, that eggs should be cooled every day to 70 degrees, for the simple reason that the old hen does. they do not take into consideration that it is a necessity for the old hen, but may not be for the embryo chick. when the hen leaves her eggs to feed, and they become partially cold, when she recovers them and brings those eggs in immediate contact with the rapidly-pulsating arteries of her body, in fifteen minutes they have acquired their normal heat. with the machine it will require an hour or two. to meet this difficulty, suitable instructions should be given with and to suit different machines. where the eggs are turned automatically inside the machine, it is necessary that they should be cooled at least once a day during the last two weeks of the hatch. taking the eggs out to turn twice each day, as in the monarch, cools them sufficiently during the winter months; in warm weather, leaving the outside and inside doors open while turning cools them sufficiently. some incubator manufacturers will tell you that thermal changes, however great, will not affect their machines. their patrons tell a different story. no machine was ever made, or ever will be, that will run as well or give as good results amid constant thermal changes as in an even temperature. it is true that they reduce the heat, but it is by admitting large draughts of air, running off the moisture and completely destroying the humidity of atmosphere in their machines. then, how about those little ducklings which have been pipped forty-eight hours? they can never get out unless you help them. suitable buildings. many insurance companies object to incubators being run in buildings covered by their policies, and will often cancel them. this originated from the fact that so many fire-traps, which were thrust upon the public in the shape of incubators, had consumed the buildings in which they were operated. the insurance companies were obliged in self-defence to prohibit their use in insured buildings. but the interdiction is usually removed upon the representation that the machine is safe. sometimes a slight premium is exacted. in the event of insurance companies being obdurate, it is very easy to excavate a place in a side hill, or on level ground. stone it up five feet high at the sides. it is not necessary to dig more than two or three feet deep, as the excavated dirt can be used to bank up with on the outside. upon this stone-work put a simple roof. i use a building of this description. the original cost, exclusive of labor, was $15. it was large enough for two machines. my new incubator room is ten times as large, but the cost was in proportion. this building never freezes in winter, and is always some ten or fifteen degrees colder than the outside temperature in summer, making a very handy place to keep eggs for incubating purposes. it is well to run your machine a few days and get the control of it. the next thing is to fill it with fresh fertile eggs. in the winter time, if one does not have eggs himself, this is sometimes a very difficult thing to do, for the eggs must not only be fresh, but fertile. the young beginner is often obliged to depend upon others for his eggs when first starting in the business, but the poulterer, as a rule, cannot afford to do this, because he can grow them a good deal cheaper than he can buy; and not only this, and what is more to the point, he, by proper care and feed during the winter months, can make his own eggs a great deal more fertile than any he can buy of others. usually about one-third of our novices go right to the stores and purchase eggs to fill their machines with. [illustration: our incubator house.] this is running a great risk, especially during the winter months, but will give the reader an idea of the amount of knowledge that many of our would-be poultry men have acquired to begin with, and when he knows that the incubator has to shoulder all these mistakes, he will naturally have a little sympathy for the maker. several years ago i sold a six hundred-egg machine to a lady, who, on receiving it, filled it promptly with eggs obtained from the grocers. now, as this was in the month of december, it was, to say the least, an exceedingly doubtful operation. as she only got about forty chicks she was naturally very much dissatisfied, and strongly denounced both the machine and the maker. her husband suggested that possibly the machine was not to blame, and that the eggs might have something to do with it. they went to the grocer to enquire about it. he told them that he had had some of those eggs on hand for several weeks, and that they had been exposed to the cold and freezing weather, and that probably the farmers from whom he had obtained them had held them for high prices. they found on enquiry that this was the case, and one party especially, who kept a large number of hens, and from whom he had collected the largest share of his eggs, kept no "crowers" with his hens. this threw some light on the subject, and stock on that incubator went up at once. the next time she had parties save their eggs for her, taking them in several times each day. she then obtained a hatch of ninety per cent, and was uniformly successful afterwards, getting out some 3,000 chicks and ducks during the season with her machine. how to keep eggs for incubation. the above is only one case out of many that are constantly taking place. in nine cases out of ten, failure with good machines may be traced directly to the operator or the eggs. occasionally there is a defect in a machine overlooked by the maker, which he is in honor bound to make good. the best way to secure good eggs is to engage them beforehand from reliable parties, who will gather them carefully several times each day in cold weather to prevent them chilling, and turn them at least every other day. if these eggs are kept on end it is not necessary to turn them as often. i have egg boxes for the purpose, in which the eggs are set on end, like the common market box. these boxes and contents can be turned as readily with a dozen as when full. eggs intended for incubation should always be kept in a cool place,--duck eggs especially,--as the fertile eggs will change at a temperature of eighty-five to ninety degrees, and spoil within three or four days. one may safely calculate on one-half of them being spoiled in a week at a temperature of 80 degrees. all kinds of eggs can be safely kept three weeks for purposes of incubation, say, at forty-five to fifty degrees, though i always like to have them as fresh as possible. in filling orders for eggs at a distance i make it a point never to send eggs more than four days old, or with less than seventy-five per cent of fertility. transportation, even over rough roads, does not affect their hatching, except in extreme warm weather, when the contents, becoming thin and slightly evaporated through the heat, are apt to mix, when they will surely cloud and rot. i have often sent eggs 2,000 miles, with the report that every egg produced a duckling. with machine ready and running steadily the eggs may be introduced at once. they need no moisture now, and it is not necessary to disturb them for the first forty-eight hours. how to choose and use thermometers. place your thermometer on the eggs in middle of egg-tray. be sure, in the first place, that you get a good glass, as all depends upon its accuracy. do not use one with the mercury bulb lying upon a solid metal plate, as the refraction of heat upon the plate from the tank above will always run that glass one or two degrees higher than the heat in the egg-chamber, but get one, if possible, with a hole in the plate opposite the bulb, so that the heat can play around the bulb and through the plate, giving the correct heat of eggs and chamber. do not hang your glass up over the eggs, or put it down between the eggs, but lay it on them, for the reason that, though either of these positions may be all right during the first twelve days of the hatch (if your eggs are fertile), they will surely be all wrong during the last part. i will endeavor to explain this thing, so that the novice will understand how important it is. before circulation begins in the embryo chick or duck, and there is no animal heat in the egg, the temperature of the egg chamber regulates that of the eggs. but after circulation begins, and especially during the latter part of the hatch, when the rapidly-developing young bird throws out a great deal of heat, the thing is often completely reversed. for instance, a glass may be hung one inch above the eggs and another placed immediately on the eggs beneath. the one above may register 102 degrees; the one below, on the eggs, will register 105 degrees,--conclusively showing that the eggs are now, by their own caloric, heating the egg-chamber. i have often, during the last part of a hatch, when the thermometer was ranging from 70 to 80 degrees outside of machine, placed a glass on the hottest part of the boiler, where but one lamp was dimly burning, carefully covering the glass. in that position it would register perhaps 96 to 98 degrees, while a glass inside the machine, and on the eggs, would register 103 degrees, proving beyond a doubt that the eggs, by their own caloric, were not only heating the egg-chamber, but contributing their quota towards heating the water in the tank. now, who will pretend to say that a glass hanging above the eggs will give the correct heat of the egg after circulation begins. so that, even in cold weather, the amount of oil consumed during the last week of the hatch is less than half the amount required during the first part. the operator must not expect the eggs to heat up at once. on the contrary, they will cool the air in the egg-chamber very sensibly, though they will not affect the heat of the water in the tank. it will be from five to eight hours before they arrive at their normal heat. how to turn eggs. at the end of forty-eight hours they may be turned. this should be done by gathering up the eggs at the end of egg-tray and placing them upon the eggs in centre of the tray, rolling the centre ones back to the end of the tray. the tray should be reversed, and the same thing done to the other end. it is not necessary that the eggs should be completely reversed,--simply change the position, rolling over one-half or one-third. the egg-trays should always be turned end for end, and changed from end to centre of machine. this is necessary in case there should not be a uniform heat in egg-chamber, as it will equalize matters, and, in a measure, obviate the difficulty. now, all this, though it takes some time to describe it, can be done very quickly, requiring only a few moments for each machine. i usually allow about ten minutes for each 1,000 eggs, though it can be done much quicker if one is in a hurry. i am often requested by people to put in patent automatic egg-turning trays in my machines, it would so simplify matters. i reply: "so it would; and when you can produce a machine with a perfect uniformity of heat in the egg-chamber, i should be most happy to use an automatic tray, but i have never yet seen that machine." in our own double-cased monarch, in cold weather, there is at least one degree difference between the end and centre of egg-tray. in single-cased machines this difference must be largely increased, and in automatic trays the eggs must necessarily remain where they are placed through the entire hatch. now, under these conditions, if the heat is right in the centre of trays it must be all wrong in the ends. the hatch will be protracted long after the proper time, and if those on the ends of trays come out at all it will be forty-eight hours behind time and with weakened constitutions, keeping one in constant stir with their sickly plaints. it is needless to say that there is a great mortality among birds of that description, and at the end of ten days they are usually among the things that were. hatching the eggs. the next thing is testing the eggs. this matter is essential as well as economical, with both hens and incubators. i once knew a man who ran a six hundred-egg machine for three weeks on one fertile egg. the other 599 proved infertile, and he did not know it until they refused to hatch at the end of three weeks--a great waste of oil, but a greater waste of time,--three whole weeks in the best part of the season. another man kept forty hens sitting three weeks with an average of one fertile egg to each bird, when three of them could have done all the hatching just as well, and then, at the end of four days, could have had the rest put upon better eggs. a great waste of hen power, you will say, with time lost, together with forty dozen eggs, which would have been just as good for table use had they been tested out in four days. it often happens in the winter, when eggs are apt to be infertile, that, after testing the contents of four trays, they can be contained in three, when the other can be filled with fresh eggs. here is where the advantage of adjustable trays comes in. often the operator running a large machine has not eggs enough to fill it without a part of the eggs becoming very old, and also losing ten or twelve days of valuable time; with the adjustable tray, eggs can be introduced at any time, and the same heat preserved on all. i usually test duck eggs at the end of the third day. the fertile germ is then plainly visible, and the eggs can be passed before the light, several at a time. the novice had better postpone the operation till the fourth day, when he, too, will have no trouble in detecting the germ. the same rule will hold good with all white eggs, but dark-brown eggs should not be tested till the sixth or seventh day. this can be done much sooner, but a large machine full cannot be tested in a minute, and the eggs should be far enough advanced so that the operator can take two or three in his hand at once, and passing them before the flame, readily detect the germ. i never use a tester for duck eggs, as a simple flame is sufficient, the egg being translucent. during the first stages of incubation the germ is very distinct, even at the third day. the clear eggs are reserved for family use or disposed of to bakers. an expert cannot distinguish them from a fresh-laid egg, either in taste or appearance. there is usually a small percentage of the eggs that are slightly fertilized, in which the germ will die during the second or third day. these can be readily detected at the end of the fifth day, and should be taken from the machine, and reserved as food for the young ducklings. another and potent reason why all infertile eggs, and those with dead chicks in them, should be taken out of the machine, is that after the circulation begins in the egg, especially during the last part of the hatch, the temperature of a live egg is several degrees higher than that of a dead one. the one radiates heat, the other absorbs it; so that if the operator is running his machine 102 degrees, with his glass on a dead egg, he may be all unconsciously running it at 104 or 105 degrees on a live one. i had a letter from a man some time ago stating that his thermometers were developing strange freaks,--that though they registered the same while in water, at 103 degrees, when lying on the eggs a few inches from each other in the machine, they were several degrees apart, and wishing to know by which he should run, the higher or lower. i wrote him that his glasses were all right, and that he was the one at fault, and had he followed instructions and tested his eggs he would have had no such trouble. he wrote that as his machine was not quite full, and as he had plenty of room, he neglected to test them, thinking it would make no difference. i do not propose here to give my experience, together with the many experiments made during the last twenty years, but shall aim to give the reader simple instructions for hatching and growing ducks for market and selection of breeding stock. i would say here that the first thing for the operator to learn in turning the eggs is to do it carefully and well, without breaking or unnecessarily jarring them; and then, to do it as quickly as possible, especially if done in a cold atmosphere, so as not to derange the heat in the egg-chamber. the next thing is to maintain as even a temperature as possible during the hatch. i do not think that a variation of one degree is at all detrimental. but different people have different ideas of regularity. a man who did not have a first-class hatch, wrote me that he had kept the machine right to business, as it had run between 90 and 110 degrees during the entire hatch. another man wrote that his machine had been as low as 100 degrees, and once up to 103 degrees, and wishing to know if i thought it would be fatal to his hatch. there is no such thing as accuracy in the composition of some men, things are run "hap-hazard," failure and misfortune are always attributed to conditions, circumstances, or hard luck,--never to themselves,--and in case of a poor hatch, always the incubator. instructions go for nothing with them. an enterprising incubator maker told me one day that he believed that the world was composed of cranks and fools (at least the poultry part of it). the one-half did not know anything, while the other half had all that was worth knowing and despised all instructions and common-sense. in running your machine, the first step is to set it level and see that the glasses register alike in both ends of the machine. next, procure good oil, 150 test (as poor oil will necessitate frequent trimming, besides crusting the wick). do not use more flame than is necessary, as it will only be a waste of oil, and with some machines will increase the ventilation, and at the same time decrease the moisture. be regular in both filling lamps and trimming them, as irregularity frequently involves forgetfulness, and that sometimes means disaster to the hatch. in trimming, it is well to turn on the same amount of flame in relighting your lamp as it had previously. in the monarch incubator this required amount can readily be seen at once by the action of the regulating bar. it informs the operator just when he has enough,--when too much and when too little. keep both lamps and chimneys clean, and have stated periods for turning your eggs, which should be done twice each day. as i said before, an egg-tester is not required with duck eggs, as they are so transparent that the whole process can be plainly seen without in the flame of a common kerosene lamp. if a duck egg is carefully examined, after being subjected to a heat of 102 degrees for twenty-four hours, a small dark spot will be seen about the size of a large pin-head. this little spot, if the egg is gradually turned, will always float over the upper surface of the egg. this is the life germ, and the first indication of fertility in the egg, and is represented in figure 1. [illustration: figure 1.--showing first indication of fertility.] at the end of forty-eight hours this dark spot will have nearly doubled its size, and a faint haze will appear around its edges a shade darker than the surrounding contents of the egg. this haze is the first appearance of the blood veins radiating out from the germ. figure 2 shows how the egg appears at this stage with the air-cell slightly enlarged. [illustration: figure 2.--egg at end of 48 hours.] at the end of the third day the dark spot, which is the heart of the embryo duck, can still be seen; but not so distinctly, because a dark circle some three-quarters of an inch in diameter will now appear in the upper surface of the egg, in the centre of which the dark spot is visible. this circle is several shades darker than the rest of the egg, and no matter how the egg is turned will always float in its upper surface. figure 3 represents the egg at this stage, with its enlarged air-cell. figure 4 represents the egg as it appears at the end of the fourth day. the circle surrounding and inclosing the germ will have nearly doubled in size, and is of a still darker hue; indeed, the whole contents of the egg is perceptibly darkened. if the egg is broken carefully at this date a delicate tracery of veins will be found to have enveloped the entire yolk of the egg, all originating from the centre or heart of the embryo; the pulsations of which (if the shell is removed) can now be plainly seen with the naked eye. this net work of veins cannot be plainly seen with a common lamp, but with a powerful glass are very distinct. this latter is not at all necessary in testing the egg. [illustration: figure 3.--egg at end of 72 hours.] [illustration: figure 4.--egg at end of 96 hours.] the discovery and locations of the minute organisms may be interesting to the scientist, but not at all necessary to the operator, who simply wants to be assured of the life and health of the germ. this he can readily determine from the increased size and gradual development of the circle; it, and the contents of the egg, now assume a darker shade. up to this time i use no moisture, and the contents of the eggs have gradually evaporated and the air-cell proportionately enlarged. this air-cell is slightly enlarged till the tenth day, when no further evaporation should take place. about three days before hatching the rapidly developing duck will gradually diminish the size of the air-cell, leaving himself just room enough to work out. nature, in the case of the old hen, provides for her own contingencies, while we must resort to art to obtain the same conditions. while incubating under the hen during the first few days, the egg evaporates rapidly. then the pores gradually become coated with an oily secretion from the feathers of the hen until evaporation ceases. now, we cannot successfully fill the pores of the eggs, it is too delicate an operation to attempt; but we can easily obtain the same conditions in another way, and that is to prevent the further evaporation of the egg by vaporizing water in the egg-chamber, so that evaporation will not take place. exactly when this should be done is already known, but exactly how much is quite another thing, and depends largely upon the conditions of the atmosphere outside. the point is this: the humidity inside the egg-chamber must be the same, whatever the conditions are outside. if your machine is in a warm, dry room, heated by a fire, far more evaporating surface will be required than in a cool, dry cellar, for the reason that water vaporizes just in proportion to its heat; and as the circulating pipes upon which the water-pans rest must necessarily be much warmer in a cold room than in a warm one, of course more surface must be exposed in a warm than in a cold one. the operator will always have to use his judgment more or less in that. it may perplex the novice somewhat, but it is easily understood when one becomes accustomed to it. as a rule, in our machines, we introduce one moisture pan about the 18th day for both duck's and hen's eggs. it makes some difference whether a machine is run in a humid atmosphere near the seashore or in a dry, rarified atmosphere at an altitude in the country. figure 5 represents the egg at the end of the fifth day, the circle enlarged, shaded darker in color; the whole egg being slightly darker in hue. [illustration: figure 5.--egg at end of 120 hours.] figure 6, at the end of the sixth day, shows still more plainly the germ undergoing a gradual change in the egg, enlarging and assuming a darker hue. the outline of the circle is now gradually acquiring the form of an ellipse, and in a live embryo the line of demarkation should be distinct. if it is at all wavy and irregular in its outline, and instead, remaining intact, the contents of this ellipse show a disposition to assimilate with the surrounding liquids when the egg is revolved, it can be safely removed as a dead duck. [illustration: figure 6.--egg at end of 144 hours.] figure 7 represents a dead embryo, as it will appear from the seventh to the twelfth day. the germ being separated and appearing in dark irregular blotches over the entire surface of the egg; the egg having become nearly opaque over its entire surface. at this stage the egg, if it has not already become so, will soon be very offensive. these should be removed at once and handled carefully the while, as they are apt to explode and unpleasant consequences ensue. the operator should run no risks, as discoloration on the outside shell of a duck egg is a sure sign of decay, and they can safely be taken from the machine. there are always a certain number of duck eggs (especially during the month of august and the latter part of july) that have the appearance of fertility during the first three or four days of the hatch, but do not possess vitality enough to carry them through. these die at all stages of the hatch; neither operator nor machine is responsible for them. this is caused by the condition of the mother bird. [illustration: figure 7.--a dead embryo.] in order to economize the room thus made by the removal of the fertile eggs, i run a small 150-egg machine, in connection with twenty-one of the largest size, using it, as it were, as a tender. when filling one of the larger machines, i always fill one tray in the smaller one so that when the eggs in the large one are tested, after the third day, there will usually be eggs enough in the small tray to replace those removed as infertile, so that the large machines are kept full during the entire hatch by the little one. thus the small machine is made to accomplish far more than it would were it run through the hatch. i am thus enabled to have a hatch come off nearly every day, consequently our eggs are never older than that when introduced into the machine. always date each day's quota of eggs--keep them by themselves, then there will be no mistakes made. i have known parties to keep one general receptacle for their eggs, and when filling their machine take them from the top, while the bottom ones were never disturbed, not even turned, and of course soon became worthless for any purpose. figure 8 denotes the appearance of the egg during the eighth day of incubation. if portions of the shell are carefully removed at this stage, the rudimentary intestines may be plainly seen, together with the gradual development of the beak and eyes, as well as the trembling of the pulsating arteries through the whole embryo. [illustration: figure 8.--egg after 192 hours.] at this stage the operator should mark all doubtful eggs and return them to the machine, as he will find plenty of room there. he will soon become expert, and can detect life and death in the germ at a glance. experience alone will give the operator an insight into this business. the incipient stages of decay, though easily detected by the expert, cannot be intelligently described by him. the application of a little heat for the short space of twenty days to an inert mass, developing it into active, intelligent life, is simply wonderful. the process and effect he can easily describe, but the procreative power behind it all is beyond his ken. should a little duckling be taken from the shell on the thirteenth or fourteenth day it will resemble figure 9. it will kick and struggle several moments after its removal. the yolk is not yet absorbed, but the process is just beginning and will continue until the twenty-fourth day, when it will be nearly absorbed. the egg, from the fourteenth day rapidly assumes a darker hue. [illustration: figure 9.] the extremities of the little bird gradually develop, the feathers grow, and at the twentieth day the egg is opaque. at this stage the embryo will endure greater extremes of heat or cold than at the earlier stage of the hatch. i should not advise the operator to presume upon this, however, but just make the conditions as favorable as he can, so that the little bird will have the strength to free himself from the shell. i need not say that this is the most critical time during the whole process, and matters should be made as favorable for the little duckling as possible. about the twenty-fourth day he will be already to break the shell, but, unlike the chick, who will make his way out of the shell a few hours after he has pipped, the duckling will lay for forty-eight hours before he is ready to come out. at this time there should be plenty of moisture in the egg-chamber, for should the orifice or broken parts become dry, and the little duckling, in consequence, be attached to the inside lining so that he cannot turn, he can never get out without help. [illustration: figure 10.] when the hatch is well underway a little more air should be allowed to circulate in the egg-chamber, and a part of the evaporating surface can be removed, for as each duckling makes its appearance he becomes a little sponge, until dried off, and furnishes plenty of moisture for the machine. when nearly dried off the duckling should be dropped into the nursery below the egg-trays. while hatching, the eggs should be kept pipped side up in the trays, as the birds sometimes get smothered when the orifice is underneath. the dry birds should be dropped below about once in four hours, for, if allowed to accumulate, they will roll the egg upside down, crowd the egg-shells over the pipped eggs, or pile themselves over the egg, smothering the young birds. this work should be done very quickly, so as not to derange the temperature of the machine. be sure to keep the heat up in your machine, for its tendency is always to go down during hatching, for the reason that the egg radiates a great deal of heat, while the little duckling, with its woolly covering (which is a non-conductor), retains it. many people advocate allowing the little fledglings to remain with the eggs until all are hatched, but this is all wrong, not only for the above reasons, but for one which is far more important than either. the amount of heat requisite to hatch the eggs is too much for the young birds already hatched and dried off. with chamber at 102 degrees, they will be seen crowding around the sides of machine with their little bills wide open, gasping for breath, when, had they been placed below, the proper temperature can be maintained in both, as the bottom of machine runs at least five degrees lower than the egg-trays. be sure and follow instructions. another fertile source of trouble is removing ducklings from machine, putting them behind the stove, or somewhere else to dry off. for every fifteen birds removed, the heat in egg-chamber is reduced at least one degree, as you are removing so many little stoves, and if the machine is not gauged higher, to correspond with the number of ducklings taken out, the result will be fatal to the unhatched eggs. i corresponded a whole summer with one man on this very point before i found out what he was doing. he said he had never been able to get out more than fifty per cent. of fertile eggs. his machine ran splendidly until his chicks were about half hatched, when it would drop down to 90 degrees, and the rest would die in the shell, after they were nearly all pipped. at last a letter came from him stating that he had just had a worse experience than ever. he had a most promising hatch of three hundred fertile eggs, nearly all of which were pipped, and that, after a little more than half were hatched, he took them out as usual, about one hundred and fifty in number, and put them behind the stove to dry off, and his machine dropped to 90 degrees at once, and not another chick came out. the cat was out of the bag. i wrote him at once that for every fifteen chicks he had taken out he had taken one degree of heat from his machine, and had he followed instructions he would not have suffered loss. he wrote back that he had shut up his machine for the season, but that he should run it one more hatch just to prove that i was wrong. at the end of three weeks a letter was received saying, "i tender you my hat. i got a splendid hatch of 88-1/2 per cent." proving that occasionally there is danger of the operator knowing too much. after the ducklings are all out, the egg-trays should be removed, the valves opened, and the machine cooled down to 90 degrees, and the birds allowed to remain in the machine for at least twenty-four hours. i always cover the bottom of machine with an inch of fine wheat-bran, otherwise the ducklings would soon make it filthy and offensive. this acts both as absorbent and disinfectant. after each hatch there will be more or less fertile eggs left in the trays with dead ducklings in them. there will be, comparatively, but few of these in the spring of the year, but during the latter part of the summer there will be more of them, and many of the eggs will have but little vitality in them. forcing the bird reduces the vitality of the egg. the reason is this: the bird in its natural condition does not produce her eggs in our climate until april. she will lay twenty-five to thirty eggs, then show a desire to incubate, then will recuperate, and set a second time, perhaps giving a total of thirty-five or forty eggs. now, we have completely reversed nature in this respect. by judicious feeding, good care, warm quarters, and careful breeding, we have induced the bird to produce her eggs in winter instead of summer, and, not only that, we compel her to lay three or four times as many of them; and when the poor bird shows a desire to incubate and recuperate her exhausted frame, we induce a change of mind, as soon as possible, and set her at it again. as a natural consequence, as the warm season advances many of the birds are off duty, as it were, and the eggs not only decrease in numbers but in size as well, and during the extreme heat of summer, the later part of july and august especially, the eggs show a decided want of vitality. i never expect, at this season, to realize more than one duckling from two eggs. the same machine full of eggs that would give a hatch of 350 ducklings in the early spring, at this season will not give more than 175 to 200. the eggs appear to be as well fertilized during the first two or three days as in the early spring but evidently there is not vitality enough to carry them through, as the germs soon begin to die, and before the hatch is out you have taken nearly one-half of the eggs away as worthless. nor is this all. there is always a far greater mortality among the later hatched birds than in those got out earlier. they are more uneven in appearance, and never attain the size of those hatched earlier in the season,--convincing evidence that the old birds have transmitted their enfeebled, debilitated constitutions through the egg to the young ones. the natural laws of cause and effect are plainly represented here. i have tried repeatedly to overcome this difficulty by changing the feed and quarters of the old birds, dividing their numbers, but without effect. this shows the absolute necessity of selecting large, vigorous breeding stock. this principle applies equally to both land and water fowl. the absolute necessity of good breeding stock. debilitated, degenerate stock will not produce healthy and vigorous young. this is a prime cause of failure with many of our poultry breeders. they say that they cannot afford to breed from their early-hatched stock. they are worth too much in the market, so they are sent to the shambles, and their owners breed from the later-hatched, inferior birds. a few years practice of this kind soon degenerates the stock so that you will hardly recognize the original in it, and both birds and eggs are not only thus, but a very small per cent. of those eggs can be induced to hatch, and no amount of petting and coaxing can induce those that are hatched to live. every young breeder of poultry should inform himself of these facts before he starts in, for no living man can afford to breed from inferior stock. i passed through experiences of this kind many years ago, and always found that the laws of primogeniture cannot be lightly set aside. i invariably select the choicest of my early hatched birds for breeding stock, and no matter how high the price in market, i cannot afford to sell them. a gentleman, who is a large breeder, said to me the past spring: "how is it that your ducks are so much larger than mine? i bought stock from you four years ago, and have been breeding from it ever since, and now your birds are six or eight pounds per pair heavier than mine." "true, but you bought my latest-hatched birds, because they were cheap, and have been breeding from your latest-hatched birds ever since, while i have been breeding only from the choicest of my early birds. you have been steadily breeding your stock down, while i have been breeding mine up. there is now a wide gap between them." caring for the ducklings when hatched. the little ducklings should be left in the machine for at least twenty-four hours longer. be sure and open the air-valves and give them plenty of air, so that they may be well dried off. a uniform heat of 90 degrees should be held in the egg-chamber. the outer doors of the machine should be closed and the little fellows kept in darkness the first twelve hours. after that the outer doors should be let down. then you will see some fun, for the little ducklings are far more active than chicks, and will begin to play at once. in the meantime the brooding-house should be prepared for the reception of the young brood. the heat should be started some twenty-four hours previous to use. the brooding-house should be the same whether you are growing on a small scale or a large one, with simply the length proportioned to your needs. but always recollect that heat should radiate from above on your ducklings, as bottom heat will soon cripple them in the legs and render them helpless. in fact, i do not consider bottom heat as essential even for chicks. the most successful grower i know of, who grows 3,000 chicks each spring, getting them all out between january 1st and march 1st, and closes up the whole business by july 1st, uses top heat exclusively. he has experimented fairly with both, and says he wants no more bottom heat. if the breeder is growing on a small scale it will be economy for him to use brooders instead of a heater. figure 11 represents the best duck brooder i know of. as there is no patent on it anyone can make it who has the conveniences. this brooder is six and a half feet long by three feet wide, and will accommodate 150 ducklings. these brooders are of the most improved construction, are intended for both indoor and outdoor work, keeping the young ducks dry and warm in cold, stormy weather, even when located out of doors. the heat is generated in copper boilers, the water flowing through a galvanized iron tank, under which the young ducklings hover. this tank is five feet long, twelve inches wide, and about an inch thick, and is hung about eight inches from ends and back of brooder, leaving nearly eighteen inches in front the entire length of brooder, in which to feed the first day or two. the case of this brooder is made of matched boards and thoroughly ventilated and furnished with glass doors to admit light. this brooder should be used in the brooding-house during winter and early spring, after which it can be used to better advantage out of doors. [illustration: figure 11.--brooder.] let it be understood that a good brooder is, next to the incubator, the most important thing in the business. it is worse than useless to get out large hatches of strong, healthy birds, only to have them smothered or chilled in worthless brooders. numbers of the patent brooders now on the market are made by men who never raised a chick or duck in their lives, and are regular fire and death traps. many instances have come under my personal notice where not only ducks, chicks, and brooders, but the buildings themselves have been entirely consumed by these fire traps. again, those brooders are always rated for higher than their actual capacity. ignorant parties buy them, fill them up according to instructions, when a sad mortality is sure to follow from overcrowding and consequent overheating. this is especially the case with chicks. ducklings never smother each other from overcrowding, but, of course, will not thrive when too closely packed. these 150-duck brooders can be run at an expense of two cents per day for oil. in extreme cold weather artificial heat should be kept up in these brooders for three weeks; in warm weather, a week is sufficient. the same brooders can be used over and over as fast as the new hatches come out. when brooders are removed, closed boxes can be used instead. when the operator does business large enough to require the use of five or six brooders, it would be cheaper for him to put in a heater at once, as the original cost of the heater would be less than that of the brooders. years ago, when the question of heaters was first agitated, the cost was enormous, and the consumption of coal in proportion. large hot-house boilers were used, often at a cost of several hundred dollars before the thing was ready for use. now a good heating system can be arranged for a building one hundred feet long at an expense not exceeding $100. this, of course, would be much less than a complement of brooders for the same building. advantages of the heating system. the heating system has several marked advantages over the brooders. one is, that during the extreme cold of winter the building is always warm enough for the little birds, while with nothing but brooders it would often freeze around them, necessitating feeding inside the brooders, which would not be as healthy for the ducklings. again there would be a great saving of labor, as a self-regulating heater would require no more care than a single brooder, while the oil consumed in the brooders would fully equal the cost of coal required for the heater. there is one point here which the beginner should always take into consideration in the selection of a heater, and that is, be sure and get one that will give you the greatest amount of heat for the fuel consumed. the patent steam and water heaters now upon the market are too numerous to mention. but there is a vast difference in the economy of these heaters. when contemplating the purchase of a heater, several years ago, i called upon a party who was running a newly-purchased heater. he seemed very much pleased with it, and said it ran admirably,--warmed his buildings nicely, and only cost about one dollar per day for coal. i made up my mind then and there that i should run my brooders a while longer. but on interrogating another party using one of a different pattern, he assured me that his heaters warmed both brooders and buildings in good shape at a cost of fifteen cents per day. this was presenting the matter in a new phase. the difference in cost of running these heaters one year would purchase two. i am now running three heaters called the "bramhall-deane heater" and am heating two brooding houses (one 250 feet long, the other 175 feet long), at half the cost per day. either steam or water may be used. i prefer water for both safety and economy. for instance, should the fire go out accidentally the heat would cease at once where steam was used, while water would hold its heat for hours, and would continue to circulate just so long as the water in the boiler was hotter than that in the pipes. i do not know but there are other heaters in the market just as economical as the "bramhall-deane," but i know of several prominent poultry men who are changing their heating principle, not because they are dissatisfied with the work done by that now in use, but solely on account of the expense attending it. figure 12 represents our brooding-house as it appears outside. its dimensions have already been given. it is boarded in with closely-fitting hemlock boards, the whole being covered on the outside with the heaviest quality of "paroid" roofing. [illustration: brooding house. (fig. 12.)] this roofing is manufactured by f. w. bird & son, east walpole, mass. we have more than an acre under roofing, a large proportion of which is covered with paroid. we find it strong, pliable, insusceptible to either heat or cold and to all appearances will be more durable than anything we have ever used. i have many buildings covered with this roofing. in applying it, begin at the eaves, lapping it 1-1/2 inches. it is so heavy that it does not require wooden strips to hold it down, simply nails and tin caps, which should be about an inch apart. a coat of the liquid, which goes with it, will glaze it over in good shape. for a flat roof, it is far better than shingles at less than half the cost. interior arrangement of brooding-house. as the construction of this building has been already noticed, i will proceed to describe its interior arrangement for a brooding-house. in the first place, as in the breeding-house, there should be a walk three feet wide the entire length of the building on the back side. next to the walk, and parallel with it, the brooder box should run. this box will be thirty inches wide, and like the walk, the entire length of the building. in my building the brooding arrangement is very simple, being a box with two sides resting on the ground, eight inches high in the clear, the ground being utilized as the bottom of brooder. this brooding-box consists of two parts. the sides, seven inches wide, are nailed securely, and constitute the sides of the pipe-stand. the cover is portable, with cleats nailed across the top to strengthen it, and with strips an inch wide nailed underneath, in front and in back, to keep it in position. these strips are supposed to rest on the seven-inch strips in the sides, and, when the cover is on, make a tight brooder. figure 13 represents the interior of brooding-house, with these covers on the brooders and ready for use. also, with two of the covers removed showing the heating pipes. these consist of a two-inch flow and return, running parallel with each other the entire length of the building, and lying ten inches apart from centre to centre. these pipes rest upon cross boards, whose length corresponds with the width of the brooder, and to which the sides are nailed; two-inch holes are cut out in the top of these boards into which the pipes are laid, the upper surface of which comes flush with the top of the boards, so that when the cover of brooders is in position it rests equally on pipes and boards. [illustration: _plan of brooding house._ (fig. 13.)] the distance between these boards corresponds with the width of pens outside of brooder, and constitute partitions for the same. the partitions are simply inch boards, twelve or fourteen inches wide, fitting into ground in front of building to keep them upright and in position. the front of the brooder leading into the pens is cut out in centre of brooder four feet long and four inches deep to allow the free passage of the ducklings. these openings in the first four pens are fringed with woolen cloth, cut up every four inches, to keep the brooder warmer in cold weather. the remaining brooders are not fringed, for reasons which will appear hereafter. the heater can be located in the end of building most convenient to the operator. the bottom of the pens should consist of sand which, when it becomes wet, and before it becomes offensive, should be covered with fine sawdust. this is a good absorbent and disinfectant as well. the inside of the four brooders next the heater should be filled up with hay chaff to within four inches of the pipes, the distance being gradually increased as you near the other end of the building, until the whole eight inches in height will be required, using simply sawdust enough to disinfect the bottom of brooder. this is my present brooding arrangement, with the exception of a common door handle screwed on each brooder cover to facilitate handling. it may not suit every one; some may want it more ornamental, more expensive; others may wish to simplify it still more. but such as it is, it is now all ready for use, with heat applied. but those little ducklings, who have been waiting all this time in the machine, are getting both hungry and impatient, and require immediate attention. the food which has already been prepared consists of a formula composed of four parts wheat-bran, one part corn-meal with enough of low grade flour to connect the mass without making it sticky or pasty, in fact, it should be crumbly so that the little birds can eat it readily. about five per cent. of fine, sharp grit should be mixed into their first feed, after that, one or two per cent. is all sufficient. this grit should be increased in size as the birds grow older. about the third day, a little fine beef-scrap should be introduced, soaking it a little before mixing. when a few days old, a little green rye, if obtainable, should be given them, or as a substitute, finely chopped cabbage or lettuce. when the birds are two weeks old, one part corn-meal to three parts bran should be used. this food should be scattered upon the feeding-troughs, which are simply one-half inch boards, nine or ten inches wide, by three or four feet long, with laths nailed on the sides and ends. small water-cans, inverted in tin saucers, so that the ducklings can drink readily without getting wet, should stand convenient to the food. how to remove the ducklings without injury. to facilitate the removal of ducklings from the machine, i have a square basket some two and one-half feet long, by fifteen inches wide and one foot high, with close covers, hinged in the centre. in order to secure the ducklings, usually all that is necessary is to open one door of machine, hold this basket under it and make a little chuckling noise, and strange to say, the little fellows will run out over the pipes, over the glass door, down into the basket in dozens as fast as their little legs and wings can carry them. this basket will hold 100 ducklings conveniently. when full, it should be carried to the brooding-house and carefully inverted over the feeding-boards. the little birds will begin eating at once. this process can be repeated until the machine is emptied. there will be some of the later-hatched ones that should be allowed to remain in the machine ten or twelve hours longer, as they can be cared for better there. these can be readily detected, as they are not as active as the others, and perhaps not completely dried off. the ducklings should be put out, if possible, during the middle of the day, and while the sun shines through the windows, as they can be fed in the sun and put under the brooder later in the day. in event of there being no sun, it will not do to feed under the brooding-box, as it is too dark. i then take a one-half inch board, four feet long (to correspond with the length of opening in front of brooder) and six inches wide. i nail two pieces of the same width and height, one foot long, on to each end of this board, forming a parallelogram four feet long and one foot wide, minus one side. this is set up in front of the opening in brooder, and being of the same length, forms a little pen in front of brooder one foot wide, in which the feeding-trough can be placed with drinking fount. the ducklings can then run out and in and feed when they wish. this board will only be needed for a day or two, when it can be taken up and reserved for the next brood. the ducklings should be fed once in two hours, scattering a little food on the troughs. be sure that they eat clean before more is given. at the end of a week the regular feed should be four meals each day. how to feed. when i can get stale baker's bread i use that in connection with, and instead of, bran. it can be profitably mixed with milk, not too sour, when it can be had for a cent a quart. but do not give milk as drink,--the young birds will smear themselves all over with it, their beaks and eyes will be stuck up, the down will come off their little bodies in large patches, and they will be a constant aggravation. i was once called upon to visit an establishment, the owner of which complained that his ducklings did not grow, and he was very anxious for me to locate the trouble. i found six to eight hundred ducklings there of all ages, and, strange to say, nearly of one size; and one lot of nearly three hundred ducklings eight weeks old would not average one pound each, when they should have weighed four pounds. [illustration] such a sight i never saw before, and hope never to see again. of all the miserable, squalid, contemptible looking objects, those ducklings took the lead. this man had not only mixed their food with milk, but had kept it by them in open troughs, and the birds had bathed in it and spattered it over each other until there was hardly a feather left on their emaciated bodies; and yet this man did not know what ailed his ducks. is it strange that some people fail in the poultry business? when in full operation, we run twenty-one large machines, and as it requires twenty-seven days to close up each hatch, of course we have a hatch come off nearly every day. now as each hatch is supposed to occupy two brooder-pens with the corresponding yards, in the course of five or six weeks that brooding-house will be filled with its complement of 3,000 ducklings. these will be of all ages, from the little puff-balls just from the machine, to the half-grown bird of six weeks old. the brooding pipes are supposed to radiate the same amount of heat at the extreme end of the building as they do next the heater, consequently the brooders are of the same temperature in all their parts. not so the building. as the heater radiates a great deal of heat, the end in which this is located is always 12 or 15 degrees warmer than the other and is thus better adapted to the comfort of the newly hatched ducklings than the other, so i always put the birds fresh from the machine next the heater, while the older ones are passed down the building. this is a very simple process. one end of the partition board is lifted up a little, food scattered in a trough in the empty pen adjoining, the ducklings will rush under in a moment, then the board is dropped. the same process is continued until all are moved and the building filled. [illustration: inside plan of double brooding house.] the building just described we term our nursery, and has a capacity of about 2,500 birds. when full, the older birds are probably about two weeks old, and of course these older ones must be removed to make room for successive hatches of younger birds. for this purpose, we constructed a building 125 feet long, 32 feet wide, which we style our double brooding house. it runs east and west with a walk four feet wide through the centre, with brooding-pens on each side. this building has the same capacity of a single building 250 feet long, and accommodates about 5,000 birds. on the south side of this walk our brooder boxes are arranged. at one end of the building is a heater, from which an inch-and-a-half flow and return pipe runs under the brooder boxes the entire length of the building and furnishes heat for the little birds. the brooder-boxes are located twenty inches from the side of the walk. the ducklings are fed and watered in this space, and are not allowed in it except for that purpose. to effect this, the covers of the brooding-boxes, which are six feet long by two feet wide, are cut in the centre the entire length, and hinged with a perpendicular lip, which when closed, meets an upright board below, some two inches high, shutting brooders tight, excluding ducklings from feeding apartment, so that it is always sweet and clean. by this arrangement, the ducklings are all fed and watered from the walk, thus reducing the labor to a minimum, while there is no danger of crushing the little birds under foot or under the troughs. the attendant is not hampered in his movements, but can work as quickly as he likes. all he has to do is to distribute the food and water, throwing the covers back as he goes, when the ducklings, which are always waiting, rush in and soon fill themselves. twenty minutes is all that is required for them to eat and drink. a person of good judgment can easily determine about how much the birds will consume, though it is well for him to pass along the walk, giving a little more food where their wants are not satisfied, or taking up what is left over, shutting the covers down when the birds are through. as this building is well piped, distributing water at both ends, as well as at the mixing-box and heater, it makes the feeding almost a pastime, the work is done so easily. this building is just what we have been looking for. there are none on the place that pleases us so well. its many advantages over a single building must be evident to all. the increased facility for doing the work, as well as its economy in housing many more birds for the money invested, are not the least. when planning this building, we had some misgiving about running it east and west as the lay of the land required, thinking that the exposure on the north side during the inclement weather of the early spring, would confine the young birds to the building and they would suffer for want of exercise, but we were agreeably disappointed as we found that they thrived equally as well, if not better, on the north side as on the south, proving what i have always known in duck culture, that the extreme heat of summer is more debilitating to young birds than the cold of winter, and that early hatched birds will always be of larger size and more robust physique than late ones. that is why i have always made it a point to select my early hatched birds for breeding purposes. i have never known any too good for that. i insert cuts of this double building, with the older ducklings on the north side and the younger ones on the south. were i to build another, i should duplicate it in every respect. [illustration] regulation of heat in brooders. now, as the birds grow larger, they naturally need less heat, and we must contrive to fix it so they do not get so much. as stated before, no fringe is used beyond the first four brooders,--the space in front being left open; and not only that, but we gradually raise the back of the cover next the walk until it opens an inch or more the entire length of the pen. those ducklings, before they reach the other end of this brooding-house, will weigh (if well cared for) over a pound each. the brooder will not then be large enough to hold them, neither do they require the heat, in fact it would be injurious at this age; so before the birds reach the extreme end of the building i shut them off from the brooders entirely by placing a board in front of the opening. the young birds will always thrive better out of doors than in; and when two weeks old i always let them out during the sunny days of april, by opening the slides in front. at this stage of growth when the birds are from two to four weeks old, especially with the early hatches when confined as they usually are during the inclement weather in winter, unless extreme care is taken, a sad mortality is sure to follow. there is a great tendency at this stage of growth, when the birds are confined, to overfeed as well as to overheat in the brooders. this, coupled with too little exercise is sure to cripple the birds, weaken their legs and render them helpless. even experienced growers sometimes get a little careless and lose whole hatches. we have numerous letters from all parts of the country in which people write "my ducklings are all crippled, cannot walk and are dying off fast. what shall i do?" there is only one thing; feed sparingly, and give all the exercise possible. often, the want of grit will cause the same trouble. (our yards have been prepared for this the previous autumn, and are now covered with a thick coat of green rye five or six inches high.) to accomplish this, i make pens outside the building in front, ten feet long, and of a width to correspond with the pens inside. i simply use old boards a foot wide, tacking them together with wire nails, as it is only a temporary arrangement. when snow falls it must be shoveled out at once. just as soon as the weather and the condition of the ground will allow, i set up the partition wire outside to correspond with the width of pens inside. this wire partition runs the whole length of the yard; and as the yards are 100 feet deep, it gives the ducklings a yard 6x100 feet. i always feed outside whenever the weather will permit. it is needless to say that the sanitary arrangements in this building are of the utmost importance. indeed, it will require constant watchfulness and care on the part of the attendant. the sanitary arrangements. with several thousand ducklings confined in one building, the tendency is decidedly filthy. the capacity of the duckling for filth is wonderful, and he comes honestly by it. it is simply astonishing how soon he will manage to mix the contents of his water-tank with that of his yard and make both sloppy and offensive. the chick is nowhere in comparison. it is true, the duck is not so easily affected by it as the chick, but it will not do to presume too much upon that. at this stage the attendant will be kept busy every moment from daylight to dark. not only the regular feeding four times a day requires his attention, but the simple mixing of seventy-five to one hundred bushels of feed each day is quite a little job of itself, especially when the different ingredients should be exact. the water tanks also must be regularly cleaned and filled. the troughs should be carefully cleaned before feeding, as the ducks will readily eat all foreign matter together with the food. in short, the whole business must be systematized all the way through, and the attendant should understand that it is never safe to neglect a single detail. [illustration: our double brooding house. (south side.)] i had always made a point of doing this duty myself. a few years ago, not feeling well and having other business requiring my attention, i engaged a man whom i considered competent to do this business for me. i took him over the yards, showed and told him just how the thing must be done; watched him to see that he did the work faithfully and complied with all its details. things went on apparently well for a week or two, when, going home one day, i noticed a number of dead ducklings lying around, and looking under the brooder i found quite a number more. i at once interviewed the man and cautioned him. he insisted that he had followed the instructions to the letter. but the mortality did not abate, on the contrary it increased to an alarming extent; and i had lost more ducklings in one month than i had lost for ten years previous. i watched him and found that the feeding-troughs were not cleaned at all, and when the birds scattered the sawdust in them the food was thrown on that, the ducklings consuming both. the food was thrown partly in the trough and partly on the ground; apparently a matter of perfect indifference to him. the water-tanks were not rinsed out. instead of stepping over the eighteen-inch partition wires he stepped on them, breaking down the standards and flattening down the wire, so that the birds were all mixed together promiscuously,--ducklings two weeks old with those of six weeks. the little ones were trodden down by the older ones and almost denuded of their feathers, and there was no thrift to be seen anywhere. to say that i was indignant does not express it. i had often seen such a condition of things elsewhere, but not before on my own ranch; i was absolutely ashamed to show visitors around the yards as long as this state of things existed. [illustration: our double brooding house. (north side.)] that man was promptly discharged, and i undertook the feeding myself. the birds were sorted out and returned to their own yards, the wire replaced, the feeding-troughs cleaned, the pens carefully disinfected. in four days double the amount of food was consumed and things were decidedly improved. but those birds never acquired that uniformity of size and appearance which had always characterized my market birds. the best material to use in the pens inside the brooding-house is dry, fine sawdust, if it can be obtained. it is by far the best thing i know of for the purpose. the next best is finely chopped straw or hay, tanbark, etc. the brooders, like the pens, require close attention. the top should be scraped off before it becomes offensive, and new material applied. this can be easily done by simply lifting the edge of the cover next the walk and drawing it over into the walk, when it can be taken in a barrow or basket. the necessity of green food. it must be remembered that as the broods grow older the cleaning process must be repeated oftener, as their capacity for generating filth will always be in proportion to their size. those unacquainted with duck-culture have little idea how fast these birds will grow; how soon they will successively outgrow brooders, pens and yards, and how soon every vestige of green will disappear from yards that were thickly covered with rye. but the ducklings must be kept growing at all hazards, and a vegetable supply must be procured from outside. [illustration: west side of lane.] rye comes first in the season (i always cultivate it for the purpose, and when coarse, it must be cut so that it can be readily eaten); then grass; and next corn fodder, which is best of all. it is astonishing how much of the latter these birds will consume--hundreds of pounds each day. it should be cut very fine, not more than one-third of an inch in length. unlike the hen, the birds prefer the stalk to the leaf. give them all they will eat, once each day. [but we have forgotten that empty machine. after the ducklings are taken out it will be found running at 85 to 90 degrees. i gauge it up to 102 and fill it with fresh eggs at once, not forgetting to fill one tray in the little tender.] there is one bad habit to which ducklings of four or five weeks old are addicted, and that is feather eating. first the down will begin to disappear from their backs; next, as the birds grow older, the quills which grow out from the end of the wings will disappear, and they are all exposed for tempting morsels. these quills bleed profusely when disturbed, which, of course, seriously retards the growth and progress of the birds. this vice should be checked at once, for vice it is,--superinduced by idleness and close confinement. when the first indications of these troubles appear, the attendant should watch the birds closely for a few moments, when the aggressors can soon be detected. they should be removed at once and confined by themselves, or placed in yards with older birds already feathered out, which affords them no temptation to practice their newly acquired art. if this is not done at once the vice becomes general, and disastrous consequences are sure to follow. if it has already attained headway, before the novice detects it, he must change them to new quarters; a grassy area is best, where they usually forget all about it. this can be readily done, as the operator should always have a spare roll of eighteen-inch wire netting on hand with which he can enclose a given area in a few moments. too much cannot be said in favor of this wire, it is so cheap, portable and convenient. it can be taken up and removed in an incredibly short time to facilitate plowing and disinfecting the yards. while it effectually separates the birds, it affords little or no impediment to the attendant during the process of watering and feeding. i fasten this wire up to short stakes driven in the ground, using small staples for the purpose. when removed it can be rolled up, stakes and all, without disturbing the staples. [illustration: our twenty-five hundred breeding ducks. kodak standing in centre of yard.] [illustration] [illustration] it is then ready for resetting or stowing away for next season's work. this wire is now the cheapest of all fencing for poultry work,--much more so, even, than lath-fencing; and has the great advantage of being portable and far more durable than any other material. two-inch mesh, no. 19 wire, can be had now for three-quarters cent a square foot by the single roll, and proportionately cheaper by the quantity. never purchase no. 20 wire, as it will prove unsatisfactory in the end. it is not self-supporting and can only be kept in position by boards, both above and below. there is great difference in the quality of this wire; that made by some firms being of so soft material that it will not stand alone. the squares soon become ellipses, and your eighteen-inch wire settles to a foot. the best i have ever used is that made by the gilbert & bennett manufacturing company, georgetown, conn. previous to this our oldest ducklings will have reached the extreme end of the brooding-house, and it will be filled to its utmost capacity. in order to make room for the successive hatches i drive the older hatches out and round to my cold buildings, two in number. these buildings are each seventy-five feet long, with contiguous yards one hundred feet deep. the slides in the buildings are left open, and the ducklings are at liberty to go out or in as they see fit,--a privilege of which they avail themselves as the state of the atmosphere inclines. these yards always have a thick mat of rye growing on them. the partition wires have been set up and the young birds are quietly driven to their respective quarters. after ducklings reach the age of six weeks, it is not necessary to confine them in buildings during the night. indeed, they are far better not, unless it is extremely cold, or there is danger from vermin. even severe rainstorms will not injure them. they should be watched carefully, however, as they are apt, during their antics, to fall over on their backs, when, through suction from the wet and muddy ground, they are seldom able to turn back again. prompt assistance should be rendered, or it will surely be too late, as the back of a duckling is his most susceptible part. after the birds are six weeks old it will not be necessary to feed more than three times per day, gradually substituting meal for bran, until the birds are eight weeks old, when their food should be, at least, three-quarters meal. there should also be a steady increase of animal food after the seventh week. careful watering even more essential than food. particular care should be taken at this time to give the birds all they need to drink, or your food will be thrown away, as they require more water during the warm weather. they will consume and waste vast quantities, and the water supply should be made as convenient as possible, to facilitate the business. our water is forced by a windmill into a two hundred-barrel tank, and leads from there through pipes into brooding and breeding houses, into the yards and mixing room,--all with a view to saving labor and time. the water-pans in the buildings are raised six or eight inches from the ground to prevent the birds getting in or wasting the water. at this stage, during warm, dry spells, the dried excrement of the birds will accumulate on the surface of the ground. this, as a matter of economy, as well as a sanitary necessity, should be carefully swept up before a rain, as the birds will sometimes drink water from the puddles standing around, and it will often seriously affect their appetites, as both yards and droppings are very offensive when wet. shade is absolutely necessary at this age during warm weather, as ducklings can never be made in good condition when exposed to the sun during the extreme heat of summer. it affects their appetites at once, reducing the consumption of food by one-half. it is always well, if possible, to locate your yards so that the birds can have access to shade. if not, artificial shade must be constructed to meet the ends. my plan is to set up four stakes, about 6x10 feet, forming a parallelogram. sideboards should be nailed on these stakes about two feet high. these can be covered with old boards, pine boughs, bushes, or thatched over with meadow hay,--whatever is most convenient to the grower. great care should be taken in feeding by giving all the concentrated food the birds can be made to eat, and no more, as the largest of them will be ready for market when nine weeks old. frighten and excite the birds as little as possible while sorting them. the best way to do this is to use a wide board some ten feet long, with two holes cut in the upper side near the middle. these holes should be two feet apart, and large enough to admit the hands for convenient handling. fifteen or twenty of the birds should be driven in a corner and confined with this board. the birds should now be taken by the neck, one at a time, the largest and choicest selected for market, the rejected ones put in a temporary yard by themselves. [illustration] this process should be repeated until the whole hatch is sorted, when the culls can be returned to their old quarters. they will have a better chance than before, and in a few days will be as good as the others. the oldest hatches, which usually come out in february and march, are all sent to market. the price is too high to save for breeders, but from subsequent hatches, those that come out in april and may, we select our breeding stock. how to select breeding stock. even these birds will command a high price, but i cannot afford to wait longer. i am very particular in this selection. the birds must not only be of the largest size, but of the most perfect form. the contour of head and neck, size and shape of bill, length and width of body, all are taken into consideration. as a consequence, not more than one in ten will be found to fill the bill, and my 2,500 breeding birds will be selected from many thousands. the result of all this care and solicitude on my part has been extremely gratifying, as it has not only given me the control of the fancy market, but the birds have always commanded a higher price in the general market on account of their large size and fattening properties. as the ducklings are now ready for market, it is necessary that the grower should make some arrangements for disposing of them. he cannot afford to sell them alive to the carts, for though this may be a great convenience to persons who grow a few fowls, the profits which enable these parties to run their collecting carts all over the country, and hire men to pick and dress their fowls, will be quite an item in the pocket of the one who grows on a large scale. the best plan for him is to hire an expert to do his picking for him, and if he cannot get one, to take lessons of one so that he can do it himself. this is a very particular business, as there is a great knack in it. years ago i thought i knew something about picking ducks, but after watching an expert for thirty minutes i was enabled to double my day's work. [illustration] this usually has the same effect upon others. for though it may be weeks before the tyro will be able to do what would be called a fair day's work, yet if he keeps his wits about him, and is endowed with a fair share of energy, there will be constant improvement. i received a letter a short time since from a lady in ohio, saying that she was very much interested in growing ducklings, and was satisfied that there was money in it, but that her greatest trouble was in getting them picked, as it cancelled a large share of the profits, and that she hired a woman for the purpose and paid her twenty-five cents apiece for picking; at the same time saying that she could not bear to pay the woman less, as it took her a half day to pick one duck. method of dressing ducklings. a fair day's work for an expert is forty ducks per day, though i have had men who could pick seventy-five and do it well. the process is very simple. all that is necessary is a chair, a box 2x3 feet and 2 feet high for the feathers, a few knives, and a smart man to handle them. one knife should be double-edged and sharp-pointed, for bleeding. the bird should be held between the knees, the bill held open with the left hand, and a cut made across the roof of the mouth just below the eyes. the bird should then be stunned by striking its head against a post, or some hard substance. [illustration] the picker seats himself in the chair, with the bird in his lap, its head held firmly between one knee and the box. the sooner he gets at it the better, and if he is smart he will have the bird well plucked by the time life is extinct. the feathers should be carefully sorted while picking; the wing and tail-feathers and pins thrown away and the body feathers, with the down, thrown into the box. care should be taken about this, as the feathers are no mean source of income, and will always pay for the picking. a dull knife should be used in connection with the thumb in removing the long pins, and, in fact, all that can be removed without tearing the skin. the down can usually be rubbed off by slightly moistening the hand and holding the skin tight. as there are often some pins which cannot be taken out without tearing and disfiguring the skin, and some down that will not rub off, they must be shaved off. a knife should be kept for the purpose. this knife should be made of the finest oil-tempered steel, and must be sharper than the best razor. the tops of the wings should be left on, and the bird picked half way down the neck. the bird should not be drawn nor the head removed. all this is in reality done in much shorter time than is required to describe it. the expert performs his duties mechanically. the feathers actually seem to stick to his fingers, and he will in seven minutes pick a duck in far better shape than a novice would in an hour. the bird on being picked, should, after the blood is washed carefully from the head, be thrown into a barrel or tank of floating ice. it will harden up so that its rotundity of outline will be preserved. this method is far better than that practiced by some parties, who pack their birds in ice at once, where the bodies are compressed into all manner of shapes and harden up in that position, and never again can acquire that attractive appearance and rounded outline which a well-fattened duckling should present. after the birds are hardened they should be packed close in light boxes, back down, with the head under the wing, and if your market is within twelve hours ride, can be safely shipped without ice, and they will always arrive in good condition. dealers like to have them come in this way, they look so much nicer and are far more saleable. i have boxes for the purpose, of different sizes, holding, when closely packed, twelve, eighteen and thirty-six pairs of birds. these boxes are light, made of five-eighth inch pine, are strongly cleated at the corners and ends, and are fitted with hinged covers, fastened down with clasps and screws. i find this much the best way, as the birds always preserve their shape and arrive in good condition, while express companies return the empty boxes free, and when they "get the hang of it" soon learn to deliver promptly and handle carefully. how to ship poultry. in shipping poultry the first thing the young poulterer should do is to establish a reputation among the first-class dealers in his vicinity. this can only be done by shipping first-class stock. never kill a bird unless it is in good condition. pick and dress them neatly, box them carefully, and they will always command a good price and a ready sale; while equally as good stock, slovenly and carelessly thrown together, will go begging. i have often seen good stock cut several cents per pound, owing to the shipper's carelessness. a prominent dealer in boston said to me one day, pointing to a barrel of poultry, "the man who shipped that stuff is a fool! look here!" he opened the barrel,--it was half full of ducks fairly well fatted and picked. but how those ducks looked. the shipper had evidently thrown those birds in head first, or any way to suit, and then had thrown a lot of ice on the top. the barrel not being very clean, he had introduced blue paper between the ducks and barrel. the ice had melted, the barrel had been capsized repeatedly during transit, and the paper had been completely disintegrated. it was stuck all over the ducks in little patches and rubbed in, while the birds had acquired a fine tint of blue that would have done credit to a laundryman. "there," said the dealer, "i shall have to cut that man four cents per pound." if occasionally you should have poor stock always ship it by itself, and notify your dealer of its quality. he will know it soon enough without you telling him, but, at the same time, he will know that you are not trying to put a poor article on him for a good one. one or two pairs of poor birds in a box of good ones will often affect the price of the whole. never pack a bird till after the animal heat is out. by a close observance of the above, the time will soon come when you will have no trouble in selling your stock. you will have more orders than you will be able to fill. the past season has been a very satisfactory one to us, as we have not only largely increased our business, but the prices obtained have been better than ever before, while we have been overwhelmed with orders from dealers in new york and boston which we have been wholly unable to fill. but to return to the feathers. they should be taken up every day and spread out thinly on a dry floor, turned occasionally, and, in a few days, when thoroughly dry, can be thrown in a heap. do not neglect this, for if allowed to accumulate they soon become offensive, and nothing but superheated steam will ever deordize them, and be sure that the feather firms will always take advantage of this and charge you roundly for doing it. disinfecting the ground a necessity. when we first begin shipping for market, our yards are usually filled to their utmost capacity, and we are often crowded for room. as fast as the yards are emptied, they should be disinfected by turning them and sowing a crop of oats at once. by the time these oats are two or three inches high they can be reoccupied by young birds, so that two crops can be grown upon the same ground each season. my plan is this: i do not heat my brooding-house artificially after the first of june, as the building will always be warm enough at that date for ducklings ten days old, without artificial heat. i locate some of my large duck-brooders a short distance apart out-of-doors, building a square pen in front of them, 8x12 feet, with boards a foot wide. into these brooders i put the newly-hatched ducklings as they come out. they need artificial heat the first few days. of course it would be poor policy to run the heater for the benefit of a few when it would be a decided injury to thousands. when the ducklings no longer require heat, which will be in a very few days, i remove them at once, either to the brooding-house or to the vacated yards above mentioned, when by this time the oats will be high enough to furnish them with green food. the business is managed in this way as long as there are eggs to hatch. i use the eggs for incubating long after i cease putting them out; for, if there is but one-third fertile, it is more profitable to hatch them than to market them, as the prices on young ducklings after the middle of october usually rule some three or four cents higher per pound than during august and september. during the spring and summer months, when things are under full headway, there is naturally great care and responsibility. it will not do to make too many mistakes or neglect necessary duties. the young birds must be fed regularly and given the differently prepared foods according to age,--water supplied, grass and corn fodder cut and distributed according to need. lamps to trim and replenish, eight thousand eggs to turn twice each day; a new hatch of ducklings coming off nearly every day; the machine to be filled with nicely washed eggs; one to two thousand pounds of ducklings dressed and packed for market daily; cleaning and disinfecting yards; entertaining visitors, who flock here by dozens,--furnish all the occupation we need. indeed, were it not for the immense profits attending the business, we might consider it rather more than we ought to do. i disinfect my duck yards with rye about sept. 1. when, in this climate, frost has destroyed all green vegetable life, then rye is in its prime. if sowed september 1, in duck yards, it will attain a height of eighteen inches, and if sowed thickly will crop many tons to the acre. when corn-fodder is gone, we use green clover, then turnip, cabbage and green rye in turn and then just before a snow storm we cut a large quantity of the frozen rye and pile it up in the shade, where, of course, it will neither heat or thaw. should we get out before the snow is gone, we always have surplus of clover-rowen cured for the purpose. this, together with refuse cabbage and boiled turnips, small potatoes, etc., makes a fine winter diet on which breeding ducks will always thrive if the other ingredients are properly mixed,--a diet upon which, combined with housing and plenty of exercise, the birds are bound to contribute a good quota of strong fertile eggs. i mention this particularly here, because the mortality among young birds will depend largely upon the strength and vitality of the eggs from which they come. natural duck-culture. doubtless some of my readers are getting impatient and saying to themselves, "why do you not give us some ideas how to do this business in the natural way? many of us wish to begin small. every one has not the conveniences to use or the means to command incubators." i am coming to that. i have a vivid recollection of using hens to incubate with some twenty years ago; and the persistent obstinacy of the perverse birds, the large proportion of valuable eggs spoiled and broken, as well as the time consumed in caring for them, are still fresh in my memory. it was wholesome discipline for me. it will be the same to the reader, and enable him to appreciate a good incubator later on. a good, quiet hen, who attends closely to her business, will always hatch as large a proportion of her eggs as a good incubator; but there are so many with dispositions quite the opposite of this that it leaves the odds largely in favor of the machine. success with hens depends quite as much with the operator as with machines. he must begin right and hold out to the end. as ducks seldom make good incubators, he will have to rely upon hens to do that business for him. the best breeds for that purpose i have found to be the brahma or plymouth rock. a cross of these birds makes a good quiet sitter. the birds must be got out early so that they will begin laying in the fall and be ready to incubate by the time you want them. it is well to have a room for the purpose and have the sitters by themselves. the nests should be in rows around the room, the feeding and water-troughs in the centre, with the dust-bath at one end. the nest boxes should be some fourteen inches square and about a foot high. each one should be furnished with a slide so that the bird can be confined when necessary. if the slide is planed, all the better, as the date of the sitter can then be marked on it. the first thing is to prepare the nests. there is quite a knack in this; indeed, success largely depends upon this one thing. the best material for this is soft hay or straw, cut six or eight inches long, placed upon a soil bottom. the sides of this nest should be packed hard, the bottom smooth and slightly concaved, not too much, as the tendency then would be to break the eggs if they crowded towards the centre. there should be plenty of room in the nest for the bird's feet and legs and the eggs too, so that she can turn at will without danger of breaking them. a piece of tarred paper five or six inches square, should be placed on the soil in the bottom of the nest; the whole covered with a half inch of finely cut straw. a few porcelain eggs should be placed in the nest, and when a hen shows a strong desire to incubate she should be placed upon the nest and the slide closed, giving the bird all the air she needs. this removal should be made after dark as the birds are always more gentle then. it is well to set a number of hens at once, if they can be had, for reasons that will shortly appear. if the birds take kindly to the porcelain eggs they can be removed the next evening and replaced with ducks' eggs. as they are much larger than hen's eggs, nine or ten will be enough in cold weather and eleven or twelve in warm; proportioned, of course, something to the size of the bird. i always take the birds from their nests at a certain time every day; they will learn to expect it. this should be done during the warmest part of the day. handle your hens carefully. now is the time to exercise caution. take your birds off carefully several at a time. if one should fly in your face, break her eggs and spatter the contents over your person, and you should feel like wringing her neck, don't do it; you would only be so much out. take things easy, don't get mad; she may do better next time, if not, replace her with one that will. when taking your birds off in cold weather cover the eggs at once with a circular piece of heavy paper previously prepared, and they will not cool perceptibly during the fifteen minutes the birds are off. be sure and return each bird to her own nest, for if you have an uneasy sitter, though she may spoil her own eggs, she should have no opportunity to spoil those of others. besides, if you do not, hens that have been sitting but a day or two may be placed upon eggs just ready to hatch when she will not take kindly to the young birds as they hatch, and a great mortality is sure to follow. if you should be running 100 sitters, the more you can take off at a time the sooner you will get through. have a sponge and warm water handy as you will have more or less broken eggs. the rest should be washed clean at once and returned to the nest. when hatching out be sure and remove the little ducklings, as fast as they come out, to a warm place to dry off, as owing to their long necks and peculiar shape the mother hen will unconsciously crush many more of them than she would of chicks. in fact, they should never see the hen after being taken away, as they can be grown to much better advantage, and with far less mortality, in brooders. and just here is the great economy of setting six or eight hens at the same time; the young ducklings can be all put together in one brooder and cared for with less trouble and with less mortality than that resulting from one hen with her brood. the ducklings should be confined in yards, the same care and feed given them as already recommended for artificially hatched birds. allusion has already been made to the proverbial timidity of the pekin duck. this sometimes causes trouble to the grower when the birds are confined together in large numbers. when six or eight weeks old, and even after they are full grown, they often get frightened, or gallied as it were, in dark nights. being unable to see, one bird will touch another, he will spring away and come in contact with several more. in an instant the whole are in the most violent commotion, whirling and treading each other down. it will be a perfect stampede and will sometimes be kept up the entire night. after a night of such dissipation many of the birds will appear completely jaded out, and some of them unable to rise. of course, this must be stopped at once or the grower may bid farewell to all fattening or laying on the part of the birds. hanging lanterns in the yards at stated distances will usually restore order. it will not be needed when there is a moon. see that there are no sharp projections in either yards or breeding-pens, as both old and young birds are often lamed for life by simply coming in contact with them in the night. too much care cannot be exercised on this point, as the bones of the birds are so small and their bodies so frail. as has been intimated before, ducks are not subject to so many diseases as hens,--while they are entirely free from lice or body parasites of any kind. indeed, i never saw a louse on a duck in all my experience. still, it cannot be denied that good sanitary conditions, together with plenty of pure air and water, will not only greatly increase the egg-production, but facilitate the growth and improve the properties of the duckling. ducklings when confined to yards are sometimes troubled with sore eyes. the adjacent parts become inflamed, the head slightly swelled. this is caused by feeding sloppy food, and from filthy quarters. the feathers around the eyes become filled with the food, the dust adheres to them. the eye is naturally inflamed. washing out thoroughly and bathing the eye with a little sweet oil will usually effect a cure. diarrhoea. young ducklings are sometimes afflicted with diarrhoea. this disease is caused more by overheating brooders and the exhausted condition of the mother bird than from improper food. do not overfeed or overheat the ducklings. feed bread or cracker crumbs, moistened with boiled milk, into which a little powdered chalk has been dusted. abnormal livers. this disease is the most dangerous to which young ducks are subject. it is seldom prevalent except during the warm weather, and usually in young birds of from two to six weeks of age. the livers of the young birds enlarge to such an extent as to force up their backs,--a deformity which will cling to them through life. it is caused by a complete stagnation of the digestive organs, and often makes its appearance after a heavy rain, or long wet spell, when the yards are invariably wet, sloppy and offensive. the young birds will, while in constant contact with this mud, absorb more or less of it, clogging the digestive organs, and deranging their appetites. remove the birds to some dry, shady place, feed sparingly, and give a little of the "douglas mixture" in the drinking water. ducklings must be carefully yarded while young. a great mortality often occurs to young ducklings when allowed free range during warm weather, from devouring injurious insects. bees, wasps, hornets, bugs of all descriptions, are eagerly swallowed alive but not always with impunity, and the birds often pay the penalty with their lives. always confine them, even when designed for breeding purposes, until they are six weeks old, when they can be allowed their liberty. the most of the diseases to which ducks and fowls are subject can usually be traced to some infraction of conditions, and of course are always more or less under the control of the careful operator. two young men called here a short time ago wishing to know what was the trouble with their fowls. hitherto they had occupied a cold building, so open that the snow sifted through on them, and they had never to their recollection had a diseased fowl. within a year they had put up a nice, warm building with a glass front, and their fowls had been diseased ever since. they had shut their birds in a building that would run up to 100 degrees during the day and that would go down nearly to zero at night, subjecting their fowls to thermal changes, under which neither animal or vegetable life could possibly live, and then expect them to thrive. the amateur poulterer should understand in the beginning that it is far easier to anticipate disease in poultry than to cure it. where fowls are kept in large numbers, their health and well-being can only be insured by extreme care and cleanliness, together with a free use of disinfectants. buildings should be kept dry, clean and sweet, and not too warm. the greater the variety of food the better, so long as it is healthy and nutritious; while gravel, sand, shell and granulated charcoal should be kept by them during confinement in winter. i am often asked by parties, "why do so many would-be poulterers fail if it is a legitimate business and fairly profitable?" i reply, i am not prepared to concede the point that the proportional number of failures in the poultry business is greater than among other vocations in life. hundreds of men fail every year in mercantile, manufacturing and brokerage pursuits. people do not decry any legitimate business from this cause, because they know there are hundreds who are not only getting a livelihood, but are amassing fortunes at them. there are hundreds, yes thousands, of farms on the market in new england today, for less than the value of the buildings, because their owners have made failures of them. do men denounce agriculture? no! because they know that from time immemorial men have not only secured an honest living, but have gained a competence from tilling the soil. you simply say that it is the men. why not be equally frank with the poultry business? they say the whole thing is contrary to nature, and you can't improve upon nature. can't we? that is just what man is placed upon this sublunary sphere for, and he must begin by improving himself. with the present opportunities for obtaining information, no one has a right to remain ignorant because he begins by making a failure of himself; and when a man has failed in the poultry business or elsewhere, it is simply want of that indomitable pluck, energy, and perseverence, which are the requisites of success everywhere, coupled with a disinclination to sacrifice his comfort and ease, or conform his life to his business requirements. again, we hear that artificially grown fowls are stunted and small, the flesh tasteless and insipid, and many other things which have no shadow of truth in them. i append the testimonials of some of the largest poultry dealers both in boston and new york cities, who cheerfully and voluntarily testify to the superiority of our artificially-grown birds. these firms are square and honest dealers, and we heartily recommend them to any who stand in need of their services. i have endeavored in this little book to impart what little knowledge i possess on this important subject to the reader. if he can learn wisdom by my experience and avoid the errors into which i fell, it is all i ask. the business, as i have learned its details, has become more profitable each year; while the experience of the past season has been highly satisfactory, as the demand has been greater than ever before. formulas for feeding ducks. for breeding birds. (old and young, during the fall.) we turn them out to pasture, when we can, in lots of 200. feed three parts wheat-bran; one part low grade flour; one part corn meal; five per cent. of beef-scrap; three per cent. of grit, and all the green feed they will eat, in the shape of corn-fodder, cut fine, clover or oat-fodder. feed this mixture twice a day, all they will eat. for laying birds. equal parts of wheat-bran and corn meal; ten per cent. beef-scrap; twenty per cent. of low grade flour; ten per cent. of boiled turnips or potatoes; fifteen per cent. of clover-rowen, green rye or refuse cabbage, chopped fine; three per cent. of grit. feed twice a day, all they will eat, with a lunch of corn and oats at noon. keep grit and ground oyster shells constantly by them. we never cook the food for our ducks, but mix it with cold water. for feeding at different stages of growth. the first four days, feed four parts wheat-bran; one part corn-meal; one part low grade flour; five per cent. fine grit. feed four times a day, what they will eat clean. when from four days to four weeks old, feed four parts wheat-bran; one part corn-meal; one part low-grade flour; three per cent. fine grit; five per cent. of fine ground beef-scrap, soaked. finely cut green clover, rye or cabbage. feed four times a day. when from four to eight weeks old, feed three parts wheat-bran; one part corn-meal; one part low-grade flour; five per cent. of fine grit; five per cent. of beef-scrap. mix in green food. one per cent. fine oyster shells. feed four times a day. when from six to eight weeks old, feed equal parts corn-meal; wheat-bran and fifteen per cent. low grade flour; ten per cent. of beef-scrap; ten per cent. of green food; three per cent. of grit. feed three times a day. when from eight to ten weeks old, feed one half corn-meal; equal parts of wheat-bran and low grade flour; ten per cent. of beef-scrap; three per cent. of grit. oyster shells and less green food. feed three times a day. they should now be ready for market. note.--the above ingredients should be made into a mash, and should be crumbly, not pasty. proportions by measure, not weight. question bureau. question 1.--why do my ducks not lay? i feed them all the corn they will eat. answer.--ducks will not lay on hard grain alone. they should have a mash composed of equal parts wheat-bran, corn-meal, and twenty per cent. low grade flour, with about one-quarter green food and vegetables; ten per cent. of beef-scrap, with grit and oyster shells. question 2.--my ducklings are weak in the legs, cannot stand, and soon die. what is the matter? answer.--your trouble is too highly concentrated food and too much of it. feed on mash composed largely of wheat-bran, low-grade flour and about fifteen per cent. of corn-meal. mix in plenty of green food, as green rye, clover, corn-fodder, etc. ten per cent. of ground beef-scrap, or other animal food; five per cent. of coarse sand. this diet is absolutely necessary to properly develop the bird and form flesh, bone and feathers. feed sparingly. this is essential, as it invites exercise, which is much needed during close confinement in inclement weather. question 3.--my ducklings are troubled with sore eyes and do not seem to thrive, what can i do for them? answer.--this disease savors of filthy quarters, and yet it is not always attributed to that. improper assimilation of food through want of grit and other ingredients will have a tendency in the same direction. a gummy secretion exudes from the eyes, hardening up among the feathers around them, seriously retarding the growth and development of the bird. feed sparingly of light food with plenty of grit, and sprinkle a little ginger in their food. remove the bird to clean quarters and a few days will usually effect a cure. question 4.--i am losing my ducklings from diarrhoea. have but twenty left out of eighty, and they are not ten days old. please counsel me? answer.--this disease may have several causes, though i am convinced that the food has but little to do with it. it may originate through the degenerate condition of the parent bird, and consequent want of vitality in the egg from which the little bird comes out in no shape to live; or from the extremes of heat and cold to which the eggs have been subjected during the process of incubation; or from the same cause after the little duckling has been placed in the brooder. i am convinced that with a careful selection of the proper ingredients in feeding the old bird, and a reasonable control of the heat in the incubator and brooder (if they are good ones), there need be but little apprehension from this disease. question 5.--my breeding birds have the gapes. they stretch their necks and gape, eat nothing, and die in a few days. can you diagnose the case and help me? answer.--this is undoubtedly a lung trouble, for on dissecting the birds, i have always found the lungs not only highly inflamed but nearly gone. for years i had supposed this disease incurable, and incidental to bird and clime, but later experience has convinced me that it is not only largely under control but easily anticipated. first, i never knew a case in summer or early spring, when the birds were not confined to buildings but had free and open range, and only when confined during inclement weather, so that it is more or less a denizen of foul air and filthy quarters. i would much rather have my breeding houses freeze a little than to have them filled with foetid air, and the birds breathe over and over again the ammonia arising from their own excrements. it is one thing for the birds to be confined over their own ordure, their nostrils but a few inches from it, but quite another with the attendant in the walk with his nose six feet away. he may think his buildings quite clean and free from noxious gases, but could his ducks speak they would tell him a different story. this disease, if taken in the early stages, can usually be cured. isolate the bird with the first appearance of trouble, in a warm, dry place. feed on food formula for little ducklings. mix a little cayenne pepper in the food, a little douglas mixture in the drinking water, and a large proportion of the affected birds may be saved. keep your breeding birds dry and clean when confined. question 6.--i turned my ducklings out in a grass plot today and have lost nearly one-third of them. what is the cause? answer.--this may result from two causes. ducklings from two to four weeks old are ravenous birds and will devour all manner of insects within their reach, which they do not stop to kill. bees, wasps, hornets and beetles of all descriptions are acceptable, and the little birds, themselves, often pay the penalty with their lives. again, at that age, they are extremely sensitive to the heat of the sun, and they must have shade. years ago, we sometimes lost twenty birds out of a hundred in thirty minutes, before we knew the cause. question 7.--how many birds should constitute a breeding-yard? answer.--twenty-five is enough unless the birds have free range, then fifty may run together with safety. question 8.--how shall i proportion the sexes for the best results? answer.--five ducks to one drake. later in the season, six or eight ducks to one drake. question 9.--how can i distinguish the sexes? answer.--it is easy for the expert to detect the sex of the bird when very young. the drake has a longer bill, neck and body, with a more upright carriage. at two months old the duck may be distinguished by her coarse quack, the drake by a fine, rasping noise, and later on by the curled feathers in his tail. question 10.--how soon will a young duck begin laying? answer.--at about five months old, often at four and a half months old. at present, september 1st, we are getting some three dozen eggs per day from our young birds, and we are trying to hold them back all we can by light feeding. question 11.--which will lay first, old or young birds? answer.--young birds will usually lay from two to three weeks before the old ones, but as the first eggs of the old birds are usually more fertile than eggs from the young ones, there is very little discrepancy in the result. question 12.--how many eggs will a pekin duck lay in a season? answer.--about one hundred and forty. their fecundity is wonderful, excelling that of any other duck. we have birds in some yards with a record of one hundred and sixty-five eggs to each bird. question 13.--to what age is it profitable to keep a duck? answer.--we have kept them till four years old with good results. if not forced they may be kept longer to advantage. question 14.--is there a market for their eggs, and at what price? answer.--pekin duck eggs sell readily in market, as they are much larger than the other duck eggs. they command from five to ten cents per dozen more than hen's eggs. question 15.--how much does it cost to keep a duck each season? answer.--from $1.75 to $2.00. they are gross feeders, of bulky food, but the greater number and value of the eggs in market over the average hen, makes the duck more profitable as an egg-producer than the hen. question 16.--at what season are the eggs of a duck most fertile? answer.--during the months of february, march, april and may, though they are usually fertile with us during january, june, and even july. question 17.--what per cent. of the eggs will usually hatch? answer.--that depends entirely upon how the mother-bird is cared for and fed. see formula for laying birds. question 18.--what is the average loss sustained in growing ducklings? answer.--not more than two per cent. with us, but it depends largely upon how the old birds are fed; how the eggs are incubated, and the young birds cared for. question 19.--how many birds can be safely kept in one brooder and one yard? answer.--about one hundred, and as they grow older, unless the yards are of good size, a less number would grow and fat better. question 20.--at what age should the young birds be put upon the market? answer.--when the prices are very high in the early spring we market them at about nine weeks old, when they will dress from ten to eleven pounds per pair. later on, when prices are lower, we market them at ten to eleven weeks old, when they will dress from twelve to thirteen pounds per pair. question 21.--when and how do you select your breeding birds? answer.--as soon as we can distinguish the quality and merits of the bird, and from our earliest hatches, as they always develop into larger and better birds. question 22.--how do you treat the young birds for breeding purposes? answer.--turn them out to pasture, and feed lightly on food calculated to develop bone, muscle and feathers. question 23.--what shall i do to keep my ducks still in the night, when they make a great noise and commotion? some of them are broken down and cannot stand. answer.--hang a lantern in their yard. you must keep them still. question 24.--can ducks be shipped safely any distance? answer.--we ship ducks safely all over the united states, canada and europe. question 25.--would you recommend incubator or hens for hatching duck's eggs? answer.--incubator, by all means, if hatched in large quantities. question 26.--would you use brooders, if hatched under hens? answer.--brooders are better than hens, for two reasons. it is less trouble to care for them. hens crush large numbers of them when small. question 27.--how long can the eggs be kept for hatching? answer.--they can be kept three weeks, safely, if kept on end, in a cool place, but should prefer them fresher. question 28.--can pekin ducks be crossed with other breeds profitably? answer.--from our experience, we can say no. in every case it has required longer time to mature the mongrels, and as the prices decline in the early spring, this is quite an item, besides the introduction of colored feathers injures the appearance of the dressed bird, as well as the quality of the feathers, which is also quite an item. question 29.--what is the price of duck's feathers in the market? answer.--formerly, white duck feathers commanded fifty cents per pound, but since white feathers have been imported from russia in such quantities, ours average about forty-five cents per pound. question 30.--what makes their wings turn out from their bodies? answer.--this is often caused by the rapid development of the bird. the resting feathers on the sides under the wings, do not keep pace with the rapid growth of the bird, and the constant efforts of the bird to keep the wings in place, tends to turn the wings outward. we have always noticed that these are invariably the best birds. question 31.--which are the most profitable, ducks or chickens? answer.--this will depend upon whether the grower is a care-taker, or whether he is careless, lazy or untidy. we think that ducks will bear more neglect than chicks, but it will not do to presume upon that, as ducks will not thrive in filth more than chicks. we think that the average price of chicks in market is rather higher than that of ducks, but as it costs at least two cents less per pound to produce duck flesh, than that of the chick, there is very little difference. question 32.--where are the best markets for ducks? answer.--good markets may be found in all of our large cities, though we think new york and boston the best. sometimes, when large shipments produce a glut in the new york markets, the surplus is shipped to boston, where it may be a cent or two higher. then in a few days things may be reversed and the exodus be the other way, and as the freight is only one-half cent per pound between the two cities, i have known tons to be shipped at a time. question 33.--what would a plant cost, with a capacity of 5,000 ducklings, per year? answer.--with good machines, and buildings barely practical, $1,500 (if economically expended) would cover cost, independent of land. question 34.--what effect does extremes of heat and cold have upon young ducklings? answer.--after they are a week old they will stand much more of either than chicks. question 35.--is the flesh of birds artificially grown, as good as that grown in the natural manner? answer.--just as good. the quality of the flesh depends entirely upon the care and feed given the birds. question 36.--how large should the yards be in which the breeding birds are kept? answer.--at least one hundred feet long, where the buildings are long, and the width of the pens in which the birds are housed. question 37.--do you think it will pay to grow celery to flavor the flesh of the birds? answer.--we have never done so, and parties who have grown celery for that purpose, have discontinued it as being unprofitable in the end, as they were not able to obtain increased prices for their product. question 38.--what is the best green food for ducks, old and young? answer.--green clover, green corn-fodder, rye, oats and clover-rowen cured nicely, with green rye, in winter when ground is bare. question 39.--should pekin duck eggs be pure white? answer.--yes. question 40.--should a pure bred pekin have any black feathers? answer.--no. the feathers should be a creamy white. dark feathers are a sign of mongrel stock. question 41.--will rain injure young ducklings? answer.--they are as susceptible to rain as chicks up to three weeks of age, but after that, will endure more, and at eight or ten weeks old, will really enjoy a good rain storm. question 42.--how large do pekin ducks grow? answer.--we have had drakes to tip the scales at 13 pounds each, though this is somewhat rare. the past season, one of our drakes weighed 9-1/2 pounds, dressed, at 10 weeks old. question 43.--what is the weight of pekin duck eggs? answer.--in the height of the season, ours weigh about 3 pounds to the dozen. question 44.--is wet, marshy land suitable for ducks? answer.--should prefer dry land contiguous to a stream or pond. question 45.--how many duck eggs should be placed under one hen? answer.--from nine to eleven, depending upon the size of the hen. question 46.--how long does it require to incubate duck eggs? answer.--pekin eggs twenty-seven days. muscovy eggs thirty-two days, same as geese. question 47.--do pekin ducks sit well on eggs? answer.--no. they are unreliable. hens are better. a good incubator still better. question 48.--if you were a young man, with the same experience you have now, would you enter the poultry business? answer.--i certainly would, for two reasons. first, because it is a congenial occupation to me; second, it is by far the most profitable of any branch of farm industry. question 49.--who is the best commission dealer in boston market to whom i could consign my product? answer.--we consider adams and chapman, north market st., safe and reliable, and a first-class firm in every respect. question 50.--who is the best retail dealer? answer.--we consider nathan robbins co., quincy market, as a-1. they have handled a large part of our product for many years, and we would heartily recommend them. our imperial pekin ducks. we run one of the largest duck farms in america; and the birds in our breeding pens are the very choicest, carefully selected, from the thousands we raise, and are all bred from our premium yards. we feel justly proud of our birds; for not only have they won all the premiums at new england state fairs, but throughout the west, south and canada. our birds cannot be duplicated in north america. we confidently challenge competition; and, strange to say, the birds in our yards are now far superior to our best imported birds. they thrive better on our feed and in our climate than in that in which they originated. the boston and new york marketmen have repeatedly assured us that our ducks are the best that come into the market, and as a natural consequence we have not been able to fill our orders for market ducks. our birds have dressed, on an average, the past season, twelve pounds per pair, at nine and ten weeks old. we have now 2,500 of these mammoth birds in our breeding pens, and we are prepared to fill all orders for both birds and eggs at reasonable prices. our young birds commence laying at five months old, lay through the fall months, moult slightly during the first of december, and about the middle of december begin again. the average number of eggs laid by our ducks we find, after careful computation, to be about 140 each year--more than our best hens. our birds and eggs have given universal satisfaction wherever they have gone; and we have numerous letters from our patrons, expressing themselves as more than satisfied with their bargains. our prices range as follows: per pair, according to size and quality, from $4.00 to $6.00 per trio, according to size and quality, from 6.00 to 9.00 exhibition birds, each $5.00, or 10.00 per pair eggs from our choice yards, per setting of 15 2.00 eggs from our " per two settings 3.50 eggs from our " per fifty 5.00 eggs from our " per hundred 8.00 eggs from our " per thousand 70.00 the above prices may seem large to some, but when it is known that many of the birds we now offer for sale were worth june 1st, $1.50 each in the market, and that we have kept them for the last six months at a cost of not less than fifty cents each, it is easy to see that the profits are not large. our maximum price for market birds the present season was thirty cents per pound; the minimum, eighteen cents. our ducks are all hatched and raised artificially, and are put upon the market at a cost not exceeding six cents per pound. testimonials. pekin ducks. niles, ohio, oct. 28, 1905. mr. james rankin, south easton, mass.: dear sir-the ducks arrived safely and prompt, and i thank you very much for sending such fine large ducks--why they are more like geese as far as size. i also thank you for the prompt attention given my order. the poor little duck i kept of the ones raised by me this year looks very small--only about one-third the size of those received from you, and i thought her quite a respectable size before. i've long wanted some of your ducks, and i'm very much pleased with them. wishing you greater success, i remain, respectfully yours, clara g. caratu. r. f. d. 1, niles, ohio. * * * * * ruslerstown, md., sept. 21, 1905. mr. jas. rankin, south easton, mass.: dear sir-i beg to advise that the ducks have been received, and with them i am very much pleased. am building a home for them in accordance with your plans, and when it is completed i shall want more ducks. yours very truly, h. d. owen. * * * * * cambridge springs, pa., sept. 18, 1905. dear sir-received the ducks all right. am well pleased with them. yours truly, m. f. trainer. * * * * * mt. holly, sept. 28, 1905. dear sir-i received the ducks today, and i am well satisfied with them. thanking you for your promptness, i remain jeremiah donovan. r. f. d. no. 1. * * * * * tradesmen's national bank. the united states depository of pittsburgh. may 20, 1905. mr. james rankin, south easton, mass.: dear sir-the four (4) ducks you sent me arrived on the 16th, and i want to thank you for so promptly and satisfactorily filling my order. i am very highly pleased with them. sincerely yours, t. b. barnes. * * * * * white plains, md., mar. 27, 1905. mr. james rankin: dear sir-we are pleased to say that duck eggs arrived safe, only four broken. we tested them and got 96 per cent. fertile. very good. thanks for promptness. may send for another 100 soon. yours very respectfully, gough bros. & co. * * * * * baltimore, md., saturday, jan. 1905. mr. rankin: the duck arrived safely yesterday. very many thanks. she is a lovely large bird. mrs. e. c. robinson. "elgin." * * * * * brooklyn, n. y., may 3, 1904. mr. james rankin: dear sir-the pekin duck eggs you shipped me arrived safely, not one broken. would have written sooner, but waited to see result of the hatch. i have ten little beauties. should have had thirteen, but the chicken crushed three, two were unfertile. but i am very well pleased. thank you for such fair treatment. wishing you every success, yours sincerely, b. nicklaus. vienna ave. and barby st. * * * * * arlington heights, mass., jan. 17, 1905. mr. james rankin: dear sir-received the drake and ducks all right, and i must in candor tell you how pleased my wife and daughter were with them. i have two ducks i was told were your strain, but they are eclipsed by those you sent me. i hope later on, i may send for more, as i am highly pleased with them. yours respectfully, r. park. * * * * * common pleas court, 10th district. bucyrus, ohio, may 7, 1904. mr. james rankin, south easton, mass.: dear sir-we received the ducks and they are good in every respect, and beside mr. ----, make his look like culls. if he sends the same kind to every person, he is certainly a detriment to the business. he excused himself by saying that he was away from home; then he retains incompetent help. no criticism whatever can be made of your selection, and the ducks you sent us are as good as your reputation, and the latter is the best in this part of the country. we shall probably want a few show birds this fall, and will write you later. yours truly, james c. tobias. * * * * * owosso, mich., oct. 21, 1904. james rankin, so. easton, mass.: dear sir-i overlooked writing you in regard to the drakes. the first lot arrived nicely, except two. one seemed to be quite badly lamed, and the other a little. we took them out immediately on arrival, and the one that was slightly lamed has come out all right. the other fellow died. probably got hard usage somewhere on the road. the lot right through was a very nice lot. the second lot arrived in fine condition, and the two lots together are entirely satisfactory every way. do not see how any one could ask for anything nicer. the hundred we had from you last year were equally as good, however, in fact, can see no difference. either the drakes or the ducks ought to be satisfactory to any reasonable person. yours truly, e. f. dudley. * * * * * glen wild p. o., sullivan co., 1904. mr. james rankin: dear sir-the trio of pekin ducks arrived safe on monday, oct. 3d. they are exactly as represented. i like them very much. they seem to be very tame and easy to get along with. very truly, (mrs.) edgar ketcham. * * * * * u. s. s. "forward.," key west, fla., may 23, 1904. mr. j. rankin, south easton, mass.: dear sir-sitting of eggs duly received last month. got now ten lively ducklings, had eleven, but one got killed. thanking you for prompt attention, i remain, very truly yours, geo. schopfer. * * * * * hill city, south dakota, june 11, 1904. mr. rankin: i received ducks o. k. my other ducks are laying fine. they are all fine ones; although they cost me $4.92 1-2 apiece i would not take the money back for them. g. w. wallace. * * * * * portage la prairie, manitoba, nov. 3, 1904. mr. james rankin, south easton, mass.: dear sir-i am very much pleased with the ducks you sent me, they are the finest pair i ever saw. the people here say they are like geese. thank you for the splendid selection you made for me. geo. e. stacey. * * * * * north detroit, mich., r. f. d. no. 2, jan. 9, 1905. mr. james rankin: dear sir-the ducks arrived safe saturday evening, jan. 7, in good condition. i am very much pleased with your selection. they are certainly two fine birds. i remain, yours truly, chas. glarbon. * * * * * morris, ill., jan. 24, 1905. mr. james rankin: dear sir-the ducks arrived in good condition, and they are the largest ducks i have ever seen. thank you for your satisfactory shipment. yours truly, l. l. ness. * * * * * east berlin, conn., march 29, 1905. mr. rankin: i received the duck eggs this afternoon in fine order, and i am delighted with them. they are beautiful eggs, and i feel sure of a good hatching. i only expected nine, as my friends all told me that nine was a sitting. i am more than pleased to receive 15. i will let you know how many birds i get later. yours with many thanks, mrs. s. mccrum. * * * * * monroe, n. y., june 6, 1904. mr. rankin: dear sir-excuse me for not writing to you sooner. i have been so busy that i have not taken the time, but i received the duck eggs in due time, also the little book, for which i thank you very much. received 15 eggs, more than i expected for a sitting. two were cracked, as the basket looked as if it had been handled roughly by the express co. out of the thirteen (13) remainder, were hatched eleven ducks, but the hen killed two of them on the nest. that left nine (9) fine little ducks, which are all alive at present and doing nicely--the largest i ever saw for their age. they are now but ten days old, but i would not take five dollars for them, as they look as if they were going to make fine big fellows. i don't mind buying eggs from a man like you, as you are sure to get your money's worth. wishing you a prosperous season, chas. g. reinhardt. * * * * * elwood, ind., jan. 13, 1905. mr. james rankin: dear sir-the trio of pekin ducks received in good condition. am well pleased. also the book on "duck culture" received and read, which was much enjoyed. learned many new points in duck raising. thanking you, i am yours respectfully, mrs. a. t. cox. * * * * * elkton, md., jan. 9, 1905. mr. james rankin: dear sir-received ducks yesterday in good condition, and i am pleased with them. can you let me have two more ducks at same price and as nice as these? if so, let me hear from you, and oblige, yours respectfully, mrs. j. b. conner. * * * * * east berlin, ct., may 4, 1905. mr. rankin: dear sir-i want to tell you how delighted i am with my little ducks. i had 13 out of 15 eggs. only one egg that was bad, as there was one duckling in the egg, but was not strong enough to come out. but i am more than pleased with my 13. i feel sure they will grow to be fine, large ducks. yours respectfully, mrs. s. mccrum. * * * * * rockaway, n. j., jan. 9, 1905. mr. james rankin: dear sir-the two ducks and a drake you shipped me arrived in good condition. they are the finest birds of their class i ever saw. different people who have examined them say they are the biggest and best ducks they ever looked at. yours resptfully george s. stone. morris county. * * * * * lynbrook, long island, oct. 16, 1905. mr. j. rankin: sir-the drake and duck arrived on friday, p.m. in the very finest of shape. thanking you for the selection you made for me, i remain, respectfully, w. h. young. * * * * * 30 bernard st., east orange, n. j., oct. 18, 1905. james rankin, esq., south easton, mass.: dear sir-your shipment of one duck and one drake came to hand today, and they are a fine pair of birds. thanks for your promptness in this matter. yours truly, chas. h. waring. * * * * * suffolk, va., june 2d, 1905. mr. jas. rankin, south easton, mass.: dear sir-just as the ducks came to hand i was called away from home, hence the delay in acknowledging receipt of them. they arrived safe and well, and it is but due to you to say, in size and beauty they exceeded my most sanguine expectations. they are indeed handsome birds. many persons who saw them took them to be geese. i thank you for your promptness in filling my order, etc. yours truly, v. s. kilby. i. w. morgan, sr., sec'y-treas. * * * * * the board of education of the town of port arthur. port arthur, ont., aug. 30, 1905. james rankin, esq., south easton, mass.: dear sir-the drake and two ducks you shipped to me on the 26th inst. arrived this evening, and are apparently in very good "trim" after their four days' journey. they are the finest looking ducks i ever saw and i have seen many thousands. i am more than pleased with them. thanking you for your prompt and fair dealing with me i am sincerely yours, j. w. morgan, sr., port arthur, ont., canada. * * * * * commission house of w. h. rudd & son, no. 10 merchants' row, boston. friend rankin--with the exception of yourself, we doubtless hatch and raise more poultry, by actual count, than any one on this continent. we do it entirely by artificial means, and shall never employ any other so long as we raise poultry at all and retain our senses. at our headquarters, in boston, we receive and handle, to say the very least, as many market ducks as any firm in the city, and unless we are dull scholars, we ought to form a pretty accurate opinion of the relative merits of natural and artificial methods of incubation; or perhaps better expressed, the comparative quality of poultry raised by each, whether designed for market or other purposes. we were looking over our breeding stock the other day, and certainly never saw so handsome a lot for so large numbers, and we should have to travel as far as south easton to find as fine a flock of ducks. the best market ducks that reach boston (present company excepted, of course), are sent there by yourself and your brother, william rankin of brockton; not only are they two or three weeks in advance of others, but being grown with so great rapidity gives them that fineness and firmness of flesh, a superior flavor, and excellence in general appearance which cannot be found--or at least never is found--in ducks raised in the natural way, and which must necessarily be kept much longer to attain the same height. we could refer you to the proprietors of five of the leading hotels in the city, who state that the artificially-hatched ducks furnished by us during the last few years are by far the best they ever used, and that since the raising of ducks had thus been reduced to a science, fully twice as many as formerly are now daily called for by the guests, and consequently the demand is correspondingly increased, and we predict it will continue to increase indefinitely. your ducks sell quicker and bring more per pound than any we get. next come those raised and sent by mr. carpenter and mr. otis, both, like ourselves, using your machines. by the way, we have now secured mr. otis for our superintendent at the brighton farm, and his well-known skill and experience, combined with our own, will render it necessary for you to keep your eye peeled and look to your laurels, lest you find yourself playing second fiddle. fraternally and very truly, w. h. rudd & son. * * * * * what the boston marketmen say about our ducks. boston, aug. 8, 1898. the ducks we received from maple farm duck yards are the largest and best we find in the market. nathan robbins co. * * * * * boston, aug. 6, 1898. we give the preference to ducks shipped us from maple farm duck yards over all others, as we consider them the largest and fattest on the market. we readily pay a higher price for them. b. s. cole. * * * * * boston, aug. 9, 1898. we have handled ducks from mr. rankin's duck yards for many years, and find them superior in size and condition to all others, and readily command a higher price. nathan a. fitch. * * * * * boston, aug. 8, 1898. we willingly pay a higher price for ducks shipped to us from maple farm duck yards, as we consider them the best on the market. geo. w. kimball & co. * * * * * boston, aug. 5, 1898. we willingly acknowledge that the ducks received from j. rankin's duck yards not only command the highest price, but are largest and finest that come into boston market, and handle no others when we can get those. william h. jones & co. * * * * * boston, aug. 6, 1898. we certify that the ducks shipped us from maple farm duck yards are the largest and best we have handled. h. l. lawrence & co. * * * * * columbia sta., o., sept. 15, 1897. mr. james rankin: dear sir-i received the pair of pekin ducks you sent me in good condition. people at the station thought they were geese. am well pleased with them; will write you later. yours very truly, theron d. goodwin. * * * * * laceyville, pa., sept. 1, 1897. mr. james rankin: dear sir-the ducks arrived here safely saturday morning. i was more than pleased with them. i have about one hundred ducks which i thought were large and were the admiration of all who saw them, but the ones from you beat anything i ever saw. quite a number asked me what i was going to do with the geese, and could hardly believe they were ducks. when in want of any more ducks will send direct to you. yours truly, w. e. shoemaker. * * * * * burlington, vt., aug. 24, 1897. mr. james rankin: dear sir-drake came today, and is very satisfactory. hastily, robert h. wilson. * * * * * bay city, mich., july 7, 1897. mr. james rankin: dear sir-the eggs received in good order. had a nice hatch of ten strong ducks; one dead in shell, have not lost one of the ten; am well pleased and satisfied. truly yours, w. p. latlin. * * * * * alexandria, va., may 27, 1897. mr. james rankin: dear sir-i am so pleased with the good hatch i had from the two sittings i bought of you this spring i wanted to let you know. from fifteen hen eggs i have fifteen nice, large, strong chicks, and from fifteen duck eggs hatched ten lovely ducklings. they are so large they are almost like goslings. thanking you for your kindness and the feather, i am, very respectfully, mrs. lena carter. * * * * * casawood, station r, n. y. city, jan. 9, 1897. mr. james rankin: dear sir-the trio of handsome pekin ducks you sent me were promptly received. they seemed to me to be equal in size and beauty to those ducks which received prizes at the late poultry show in madison square garden, and i regret now that i had not entered them. yours truly, grace mcvay. * * * * * nantucket, jan. 8, 1897. mr. james rankin: dear sir-ducks received in fine shape. they weighed just twenty pounds for the pair the day they arrived. a number of people thought they were geese. please send me your catalogue and oblige, yours truly, h. g. worth. * * * * * rockford, ill., jan. 2, 1897. mr. james rankin: dear sir-the drakes ordered of you a few days ago arrived in fine shape, and give perfect satisfaction in every way. yours respectfully, j. a. breckenbridge. * * * * * georgetown, dec. 30, 1896. mr. james rankin: dear sir-the ducks arrived safe and in good condition. i am very well pleased with your selection, and to show you i appreciate it, i add my testimonial. respectfully yours, leon s. gifford. * * * * * fall river, may 1, 1896. mr. james rankin: dear sir-for that setting of duck eggs i received from you april 1st, i want to thank you now for giving me sixteen eggs when i did not expect but twelve. i should have written before, but i wanted to tell you how many i hatched out. they started to hatch out two days before i looked for them, so that now, may 1st, i have twelve little beauties. i am well satisfied with my dealings with you. i remain yours truly, mrs. f. e. palmer. * * * * * riverview poultry yards, woodsville, n. h., jan. 25, 1896. mr. james rankin: dear sir-the ducks arrived all right this a. m., and they are beauties. we are very much pleased with them and thank you for the selection. yours respectfully, s. s. evans & son. * * * * * pocomoke city, md., mar. 23, 1896. mr. james rankin: dear sir-i am much indebted to you for the prompt and satisfactory way in which you filled my recent order for duck eggs. they arrived safe, and are the largest duck eggs that i have ever seen. i enclose here fifty cents, for which please send me your book on duck culture, yours truly, j. phillis crockett. * * * * * springfield, ill., oct. 28, 1896. mr. james rankin: dear sir-ducks arrived monday evening (26th), in good shape. am well satisfied with my bargain. also received your book, "duck culture," for same i am very thankful. respectfully yours, john h. rockford. * * * * * new haven, conn., april 10, 1896. mr. james rankin: dear sir-i received the eggs yesterday, and am more than pleased with their size and appearance. i also appreciate your method of doing business. you sent me forty-five eggs, when i ordered three dozen, a surplus for breakage, etc., of nine eggs, five of which were broken in shipping. this alone shows your business capacity. hoping that we shall be able to do more business in the near future, i remain, yours very truly, j. j. tomkins. * * * * * sterling, luedown co., va., oct. 31, 1896. mr. james rankin: dear sir-ducks arrived o. k. and am very much pleased with them, as is everyone else. i shall let you hear from me very soon in regard to incubator. yours truly, r. s. van deventor. * * * * * hull, p. q., can., dec. 4, 1896. mr. james rankin: dear sir-the trio of imperial pekin ducks that you sent me arrived dec. 2d at ottawa all right, and i must say they are beautiful birds of large size. the gentleman in charge of the customs examining warehouse at ottawa, says he never saw one like them before. he took your name and address. i had a number of visitors and they all admired them. i think i will send for one more drake. i thank you for your selection. * * * * * no. duxbury, mass., april 10, 1897. mr. james rankin: dear sir-inclosed find $10.00. please forward more pekin duck eggs. yours are the most fertile and produce the strongest ducks that i ever saw. bill eggs--a. m. fletcher, mansfield, and oblige, yours, a. m. fletcher. * * * * * the incubator and its use by james rankin a work compiled from over 30 years' experience by the author, telling the novice just how to manage his incubator, hatch his eggs and grow his chicks successfuly. price, by mail 25 cents we obtain the most of our cereals from the washburn crosby co., chamber of commerce building, boston, mass. we find them a reliable firm always having a first-class article on hand, at reasonable rates. * * * * * what is worth crowing over mico-spar cubical grit? mico-spar cubical grit is a hard mineral product containing sodium, aluminum, magnesium, lime and iron, natural chemical properties which every poultry raiser knows are necessary to produce paying hens. paying hens lay their share of eggs regularly and willingly, never needing to be "forced" because they are well and strong. these are the slow but sure kind, the kind that helps raise the mortgage. [illustration] mico-spar cubical grit produces this kind of paying hens because it _makes_ and _keeps_ hens healthy. it creates perfect digestion because it keeps things in the crop on the move, owing to the fact that the corners of the cube always remain sharp. honest, practical tests have shown that mico spar cubical grit is the hen's _choice_, and that the minutest cube left in the crop retains its sharp corners. mico-spar cubical grit is not a hen food or powder. its use is to tone _naturally_ the entire system. it is an economical grit because it does not crush in handling, because its bright shining surface in the scratching pen attracts the hen, thereby preventing loss, and because no oyster shells are needed. if you are a hen raiser put mico-spar cubical grit on the hen yard menu and you will prove that mico spar cubical grit is _worth crowing over_. international mineral co. 120 tremont st., boston mica crystal grit we buy this grit by the carload and find it the best we have ever used. it is clean, sharp and economical, and we heartily recommend it to all. james rankin, south easton, mass. * * * * * paroid roofing "it lasts" [illustration: paroid roofing it lasts don't cover your barn with a mortgage. use _paroid roofing_ the unexcelled permanent roofing for buildings of all kinds. economical, durable and easy to apply. any one can put it on and it stays where you put it. complete roofing kit with each roll. our book, "building economy," tells all about inexpensive buildings. it's free to you.] paroid contains no tar. it is made of strong felt, thoroughly saturated and coated. it is proof against climatic changes--can be applied by anyone and does not require painting when first laid. paroid, used as a siding, makes a neater job, keeps buildings warmer, and is less expensive than shingles and clapboards. made in 1, 2, and 3 ply put up in rolls 36 inches wide, containing 216 and 108 square feet. complete kit for applying, inside of each roll. we have nearly one-half acre of roof covered with paroid. it appears to be elastic and very strong, and unaffected by heat or cold, and we believe it will be very durable, and the cheapest thing on the market. we have one stable 100 feet long, 32 feet wide, covered with it. james rankin south easton, mass. send for price list produced by core historical literature in agriculture (chla), cornell university) transcriber's note this plain text version uses the latin-1 character set. the figure captions have been retained in the same order of appearance as the plates in the original, but moved to follow the section which each illustrates. minor inconsistencies in spelling have been retained as in the original. where typographical errors have been corrected and missing references added, these are listed at the end of this book. bold and small capital typeface in the original is represented in the plain text version by upper case. italic typeface in the original is indicated in the plain text version by _underscores_. * * * * * [illustration: _frontispiece._ general view of water yards and ducklings on a large long island duck farm. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] ducks and geese by harry m. lamon senior poultryman, bureau of animal industry, united states department of agriculture and rob r. slocum poultryman, bureau of animal industry, united states department of agriculture _authors of "the mating and breeding of poultry" and "turkey raising"_ illustrated new york orange judd publishing company london kegan paul, trench, trübner & co., limited 1922 copyright, 1922, by orange judd publishing company _all rights reserved_ printed in u. s. a. preface of all lines of poultry keeping, duck raising is unique in that it lends itself to the greatest degree of specialization and intensification along lines which are purely commercial. on a comparatively small area thousands of ducklings can be reared and marketed yearly. the call for information concerning the methods used by these commercial duck raisers has been considerable, and since such information is not available in complete concise form the present book has been prepared partly to furnish just this information. the methods used by successful long island duck raisers differ widely in some particulars and since in the space at command, it has been impossible to describe all the methods used, the plan has been adopted of detailing in the main the methods of one successful grower. this it is believed will prove to be more helpful and less confusing than to attempt to give the method of several different men. much space has been given to the operations of the commercial duck raisers but the fact is recognized that the great bulk of the ducks entering into the trade of the country is the product of small flocks kept on general farms. for this reason a chapter has been added dealing with duck raising on the farm, and attention is here called to the fact that most of the information given under commercial duck raising can be readily adapted to use in connection with the farm flock. detailed, complete information on goose raising is even more fragmentary than is the case with ducks. yet there is a fine opportunity to rear a few geese at a profit on many farms, and the need and call for information is quite general. it is for this reason that a section of this book has been devoted to goose raising and in that section all the good reliable information available on the subject is given. the special attention of the women of the farm is directed to the opportunity which goose raising offers to make a good profit on a small side line with the minimum of initial investment and of labor. the greatest care has been taken to make the information on both duck and goose raising as complete and clear as possible. however, the authors appreciate the unlimited value of good illustrations in making clear methods and operations which are more difficult to grasp from a word description, and have therefore assembled a set of illustrations for this book, the completeness and excellence of which have never before been approached in any book on the subject. the illustrations alone are an education. in preparing and presenting this book to the public, the authors take pleasure in acknowledging their deep indebtedness to the following persons for help and information furnished: roy e. pardee john c. kriner charles mcclave stanley mason dr. balliet william minnich george w. hackett dawson brothers particular acknowledgment is due robert a. tuttle for the manner in which he threw open his duck plant to the authors and for the most generous amount of time which he gave in furnishing information. special acknowledgment is likewise due alfred r. lee, poultryman, u. s. department of agriculture, for information secured from his farmers' bulletins on duck raising and goose raising. table of contents preface list of illustrations. part i--ducks chapter. page. i. extent of the industry--opportunities 3 present extent of the industry--different types of duck raising--opportunities for duck raising--prices for breeding stock--ducks for ornamental purposes. ii. breeds and varieties--how to mate to produce exhibition specimens--preparing ducks for the show--catching and handling 9 breeds of ducks--classification of breeds--marking the ducks--nomenclature--distinguishing the sex--size--popularity of breeds--egg production--size of duck eggs--color of eggs--broodiness--general considerations in making the mating--making the mating--the pekin--the aylesbury--the rouen--the cayuga--the call--the gray call--the white call--the black east india--the muscovy--the colored muscovy--the white muscovy--the blue swedish--the crested white--the buff--the runner--the fawn and white runner--the white runner--the penciled runner--preparing ducks for the show--catching and handling ducks--packing and shipping hatching eggs. iii. commercial duck farming--location--estimate of equipment and capital necessary in starting the business 42 distribution--stock used--location of plant--making a start in duck farming--equipment, capital, etc. required--lay-out or arrangement of the plant--land required--number of breeders required--housing required for breeders--incubator capacity--brooder capacity--fattening houses or sheds--feed storage--killing and picking house--resident--horse power--feeding track--electric lights--water supply--fences--labor--invested capital--working capital--profits. iv. commercial duck farming--management of the breeding stock 55 age of breeders--distinguishing young from old ducks--selection of breeding ducks--number of females to a drake--securing breeding drakes--houses and yards for breeders--bedding and cleaning the breeding houses--cleaning the breeding yards--water yards for breeders--feeding the breeders--egg production--time of marketing breeders--disease--insect pests--dogs. v. commercial duck farming--incubation 70 kinds of incubators used--incubator cellar--incubator capacity required--age of hatching eggs--care of hatching eggs--selecting the eggs for hatching--temperature--position of thermometer--testing--turning the eggs--cooling the eggs--moisture--fertility--hatching--selling baby ducks. vi. commercial duck farming--brooding and rearing the young stock 80 removing the newly hatched ducklings to the brooder house--brooder houses required--brooder house no. 1--construction of house--heating apparatus--pens--equipment of the pens--grading and sorting the ducklings--cleaning and bedding the pens--ventilation--other types of brooder houses--length of time in brooder house no. 1--brooder house no. 2--brooder house no. 3--yard accommodations for ducklings--shade--feeding--lights for ducklings--pounds of feed to produce a pound of market duck--water for young ducks--age and weight when ready for market--cripples--cleaning the yards--critical period with young ducks--disease prevention--gapes or pneumonia--fits--diarrhoea--lameness--sore eyes--feather eating or quilling--rats--cooperative feed association. vii. commercial duck farming--marketing 102 proper age to market--weights at time of marketing--the last feed for market ducks--sorting market ducklings--killing--scalding--picking--dry picking--cooling--packing--shipping--cooperative marketing association--prices for ducks--shipping ducks alive--saving the feathers--prices and uses of duck feathers--marketing eggs. viii. duck raising, on the farm 120 conditions suitable for duck raising--size of flock--making a start--selecting the breed--age of breeding stock--size of matings--breeding and laying season--management of breeders--housing--feeding--water--yards--care of eggs for hatching--hatching the eggs--brooding and rearing--feeding the ducklings--water for ducklings--distinguishing the sexes--marketing the ducks--diseases and insect pests. part ii--geese ix. extent of the industry--opportunities 141 nature of the industry--opportunities for goose raising--goose raising as a business for farm women--geese as weed destroyers--objections to geese. x. breeds and varieties--how to mate to produce exhibition specimens--preparing geese for the show--catching and handling 147 breeds of geese--nomenclature--size--popularity of the breeds--egg production--size of goose eggs--color of goose eggs--broodiness--size of mating--age of breeders--marking young geese--general considerations in making the mating--making the mating--the toulouse--the embden--the african--the chinese--the brown chinese--the white chinese--the wild or canadian--the egyptian--preparing geese for the show--catching and handling geese--packing and shipping hatching eggs--prices for breeding stock. xi. management of breeding geese 164 range for breeders--number of geese to the acre--water for breeding geese--distinguishing the sex--purchase of breeding stock--time of laying--housing--yards--feeding the breeding geese. xii. incubation 172 care of eggs for hatching--methods of incubation--period of incubation--hatching with chicken hens--hatching with geese--breaking up broody geese--hatching with an incubator--moisture for hatching eggs--hatching. xiii. brooding and rearing goslings 178 methods of brooding--brooding with hens or geese--length of time brooding is necessary--artificial brooding--general care of growing goslings--feeding the goslings--percentage of goslings raised--rapidity of growth--diseases. xiv. fattening and marketing geese 187 classes of geese marketed--markets and prices--prejudice against roast goose--methods of fattening geese for market--pen fattening--noodling geese--methods used on fattening farms--selling geese alive--killing--picking--packing for shipment--saving the feathers--plucking live geese for their feathers. index 215 list of illustrations frontispiece. water yards and ducklings. 1. mule ducks and blue swedish ducks 10 2. mallard ducks 11 3. goose, duck and hen eggs 18 4. young pekins for breeders and aylesbury drake 19 5. rouen drake and black east india ducks 24 6. rouen drake in summer plumage and rouen duck 25 7. cayuga ducks 26 8. gray call ducks 27 9. white call ducks 28 10. colored muscovy drake and white muscovy drake 29 11. crested white drake and young white muscovy showing black on head 32 12. wing of blue swedish duck 33 13. pair of buff ducks 36 14. penciled runner drake and white runner drake 37 15. methods of carrying ducks 40 16. power feed mixer 41 17. duck houses 58 18. house for breeding ducks 59 19. another type of breeding house 62 20. feeding the breeders 63 21. interior of breeding house 74 22. incubator cellar 75 23. interior of no. 1 brooder house 82 24. watering arrangement in brooder pens 83 25. another type of no. 1 brooder house 86 26. brooder house no. 2 87 27. brooder house no. 3 88 28. long brooder house and yards 89 29. pekin ducklings 3 days and 2 weeks old 90 30. pekin ducklings 3 weeks and 6 weeks old 91 31. interior of cold brooder house 92 32. yard ducks 93 33. duck sheds 94 34. feeding and watering arrangements 95 35. green feed for ducks 96 36. feeding from track 97 37. yard ducks at rest 98 38. artificial water yards 99 39. catching pens for fattening ducklings 104 40. carrying ducklings to slaughter 105 41. hanging ducklings and cutting throat veins 106 42. bleeding ducklings 107 43. washing heads 108 44. ducklings ready for the pickers 109 45. scalding 110 46. picking ducks 111 47. dressed duckling 112 48. weighing out ducklings for packing 113 49. curing duck feathers 148 50. egyptian gander and sebastapol goose 149 51. toulouse and embden ganders 154 52. canadian and african ganders 155 53. brown and white chinese ganders 158 54. methods of handling geese 159 55. geese fattening in an orchard 198 * * * * * ducks part i chapter i present extent of the industry duck raising while representing an industry of considerable value to the united states when considered from a national standpoint, is one of the minor branches of the poultry industry. according to the 1920 census there were 2,817,624 ducks in the united states with a valuation of $3,373,966. as compared with this the census for 1910 shows a slightly greater number of ducks, 2,906,525, but their value was considerably less being only $1,567,164. in the ten years between the census of 1900 and that of 1910 there was a decrease in the number of ducks of nearly 40%. according to the 1920 census the more important duck raising states arranged in their order of importance were iowa, illinois, pennsylvania, new york, missouri, minnesota, tennessee, ohio, south dakota, indiana, nebraska and kentucky. the number reported for iowa was 235,249 and for kentucky 99,577. new england, the north atlantic, the east north central, the west north central, the mountain and the pacific states showed an increase, while the south atlantic, east south central and west south central states showed a decrease. in spite of the existence of quite a number of large commercial duck farms, the great bulk of ducks produced are those which come from the general farms where only small flocks are kept. yet only a small proportion of farms have ducks on them. the comparatively small number of ducks is distributed over practically the entire united states, being more common in some sections than others, particularly along the atlantic coast and along the pacific coast, with fairly numerous flocks on the farms of the middle west. _different types of duck raising._ the conditions under which ducks are kept and the purpose for which they are kept fall under four heads: first, commercial duck raising for the production of duck meat; second, duck raising as a by-product of the general farm; third, duck raising for egg production; fourth, duck breeding for pleasure, exhibition or the sale of breeding stock. _opportunities for duck raising._ undoubtedly the greatest opportunity for profitable duck growing lies under the first of these heads, namely, commercial duck raising. where the conditions of climate, soil and land are favorable and where the location is good with respect to market there exists an excellent opportunity for one skilled in duck growing to engage in that business in an intensive manner for the purpose of putting on the market spring or green ducklings. where these are in demand they bring a good price and since the output per farm is large they pay a good return even with a small margin of profit per pound. the second greatest opportunity undoubtedly consists of duck raising as a by-product of the general farm. where conditions are suitable, that is to say, where there is a considerable amount of pasture land easily accessible, and particularly where there is a stream or pond to which the ducks can have access, a small flock of ducks, say 10 or 12 females, can be kept to excellent advantage on the farm. the cost of maintaining them will not be great and they will not only provide a most acceptable variety in the form of duck meat and duck eggs for the farmers' table but they will also produce a surplus which can be sold at a profit. it must be remembered, however, that where only a small flock is kept it is generally impracticable for the farmer to give his ducks the attention necessary to cater to the market for green ducklings. as a result he usually keeps them until fall and sells them on the market at a considerably lower price than is obtained by the commercial duck grower. there also exists an opportunity which has not been developed to any great extent to keep some one of the egg producing breeds of ducks such as the indian runner for the primary purpose of egg production. a few ventures of this sort seem to have been successful but it must be remembered that the market for duck eggs is not nearly so broad as that for hens' eggs and that in some quarters there exists considerable prejudice against duck eggs for table consumption. before engaging in duck raising primarily for the production of market eggs it would therefore be necessary to investigate and consider carefully the market conditions in the neighborhood so as to know whether the eggs could be marketed to advantage. while the runner ducks are prolific layers there is no advantage in keeping them in preference to fowls as egg producers. the eggs are larger in size but it takes more feed to produce them, while they cannot as a rule be disposed of at much if any higher price than can be secured for hens' eggs. for baking purposes duck eggs can be readily sold on account of their larger size. there is always an opportunity to produce fine stock of any kind, whether it be ducks, chickens, turkeys or geese. ducks are not exhibited to the same extent as are chickens and the competition in the shows is not as a rule so keen. nevertheless many persons are interested in producing and exhibiting good stock and there exists a very definite market for birds of quality. there is also a probability that a good business could be worked up by one who would pay special attention to producing a strain of ducks of early maturity, large size and good vigor in order to supply breeding drakes to many of the commercial duck farms. these farms usually secure drakes for breeding from sources outside their own flocks each year but the usual practice is to exchange drakes with some other commercial grower. while very good birds are to be found on these duck farms there is no greater opportunity to engage in any systematic breeding, the selection of the breeding stock being of rather a hurried nature during certain seasons of the year when the ducks are being marketed. moreover, the long continued custom of exchanging drakes with the neighboring farmers has in most cases led to the blood being so largely confined within one circle that no great percentage of new blood is obtained by these exchanges. of course, the opportunity along breeding lines for this purpose is limited to the pekin duck as this is the breed which is kept upon all the large commercial duck farms in the united states. _prices for breeding stock._ duck breeders who make a specialty of selling breeding stock or eggs for hatching find a steady and quite a wide demand for their stock. the eggs are usually sold in sittings of 11 and bring a price of from $3 to $5 per sitting depending on the quality of the stock. the prices received for the birds themselves depend of course upon their quality and may run anywhere from about $5 to $25 per bird. _ducks for ornamental purposes._ on estates or in parks where natural or artificial ponds are included in the grounds, waterfowl are often kept for ornamental purposes. any breeds may be used, and often the gay colored wood duck and mandarin, or some one of the small breeds such as the calls, black east indian or the mallards are kept for this purpose. it is said that these small ducks will absolutely destroy the mosquito larvae in any such ponds or lakes. chapter ii breeds and varieties--how to mate to produce exhibition specimens--preparing ducks for the show--catching and handling _breeds of ducks._ there are 11 standard breeds of ducks. all of these breeds with the exception of the call, muscovy and runner consist of a single variety. the call is divided into two varieties, the gray and the white; the muscovy consists of two varieties, the colored and the white; and the runner consists of three varieties, the fawn and white, the white and the penciled. duck breeders, of course, whether raising the birds for fancy or for profit, keep one of the standard breads or varieties. frequently, also, the farm flocks consist of standardbred ducks but on many farms, probably a great majority, the flock consists of the common or so-called "puddle" duck. in certain parts of the south there is a duck known as the "mule duck" which is a cross between the muscovy and the common duck. this is a duck of good market quality but will not breed from which characteristic it gets its name. most of the common or "puddle" ducks which are found on farms are of rather small size, are indifferent as layers, and do not make a desirable type of market duck. they have arisen simply from the crossing of standard breeds with resultant carelessness and indifference in breeding. because of the care with which they have been selected and bred for definite purposes, the standard breeds are decidedly superior to the common "puddle" ducks and should by all means be kept in preference since they will yield better results and greater profits. in addition to the standard breeds and varieties flocks of mallards are also kept to a limited extent. the mallard is a common small wild duck which has lent itself readily to domestication and which thrives with proper care under confined conditions. in weight, the drakes will run from 2½ pounds to 3 pounds or even a little larger. the ducks average about 2¼ pounds with a variation of from 1 pound 12 ounces to 2 pounds 8 ounces. by selecting the large eggs for hatching and by liberal feeding, it is easy to increase the size of mallards to such an extent that they resemble small rouens rather than wild mallards. the plumage of the mallard is very similar to that of the rouen but of a lighter shade. another small wild duck known as the wood or carolina duck, which is a native of north america, has been domesticated and on account of the great beauty of its plumage is usually to be found wherever ornamental waterfowl are kept. the mandarin duck is a small duck of about the same size as the wood duck, is of beautiful plumage and like the wood duck is generally kept for ornamental purposes. this duck is said to be a native of china. [illustration: fig. 1. upper--pair of mule ducks. lower--pair of blue swedish ducks. (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 2. upper--mallard duck. lower--mallard drake. the mallard is a wild duck which is quite easily domesticated and which has a plumage color very similar to the rouen. it is small in size. (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] classification of breeds so far as the standard breeds and varieties are concerned they may be divided into three classes according to the purpose for which they are kept and for which they are best suited. first is the meat class which consists of the pekin, aylesbury, muscovy, rouen, buff, cayuga and blue swedish. these breeds could well be termed general purpose ducks for they are quite good layers in addition to producing excellent table carcasses and are therefore well suited for general farm use. they are, however, kept more particularly for meat production. the second class is known as the egg class and consists of the three varieties of the runner duck, formerly known as the indian runner. the runner duck is much smaller in size than the birds of the meat class, is longer in leg and more active, and is not so well suited for the production of table ducks but is a very prolific layer. with proper feeding and management the runner ducks will compare favorably with hens as egg producers. the third class is known as the ornamental class and is composed of the ducks which are kept and bred principally for ornamental purposes. this class consists of the call duck with its two varieties, the black east india duck and the crested white duck. both the call and east india ducks are small in size being really the bantams of the duck family. while they make good table birds, their small size handicaps them as commercial meat fowl. the crested white duck is of larger size, possesses a crest and is bred mainly as an ornamental fowl. _marking the ducks._ the duck raiser who is breeding his ducks for exhibition quality has need for knowledge of the breeding of the birds he may contemplate using in his matings. in order that this information may be available, the young ducks as they are hatched can be marked by toe punching them on the webs of their feet in the same manner that baby chicks are toe punched. a different set or combination of marks is used for each mating so that the breeding of the different ducks can be distinguished. mature ducks can, if desired, be leg banded in order to furnish a distinguishing mark. nomenclature before taking up a description of the matings of the different standard breeds and varieties it is well to indicate the common nomenclature which is used in connection with these fowls and which differs from that used for chickens. the male duck is called drake, the female duck is termed duck, and the young duck of either sex is termed duckling. in giving the standard weights for the different breeds of ducks, weights are given for adult ducks and adult drakes, and for young ducks and young drakes. by adult duck or drake is meant a bird which is over one year old. by young duck or drake is meant a bird which is less than one year old. the horny mouth parts of the duck instead of being termed beak as in chickens are called bill, and the separate division of the upper bill at its extremity is termed the bean. ducks do not show any comb or wattles as in chickens. in england use is made of the terms ducklet and drakerel. ducklet is used to signify a female during her first laying season just as the word pullet is used in contrast to hen. drakerel is used to signify a young drake as contrasted with an older drake just as the word cockerel is used in comparison to cock in chickens. _distinguishing the sex._ the sex of mature ducks can be readily told by their voices and also by a difference in the feathering. the duck gives voice to a coarse, harsh sound which is the characteristic "quack" usually thought of in connection with this class of fowl. the drake on the other hand utters a cry which is not nearly so loud or harsh but which is more of a hissing sound. distinction of sex by this means can be made after the ducklings are from 4 to 6 weeks old. before this age, both sexes make the same peeping noise. mature drakes are also distinguished from the ducks by the presence of two sex feathers at the base of the tail. these are short feathers which curl or curve upward and forward toward the body of the bird. in ducks these feathers are absent. size an idea of the size of the different standard breeds can best be obtained by giving the standard weights. they are as follows:- adult drake. adult duck. young drake. young duck. pekin 9 8 8 7 aylesbury 9 8 8 7 rouen 9 8 8 7 cayuga 8 7 7 6 muscovy 10 7 8 6 blue swedish 8 7 6½ 5½ crested white 7 6 6 5 buff 8 7 7 6 runner 4½ 4 4 3½ there are no standard weights for the call duck and for the black east india duck but these are all small in size, being really bantam ducks. the drakes will weigh from 2½ to 3 pounds and the ducks from 2 to 2½ pounds. popularity of breeds in the meat class by far the most popular duck in this country is the pekin. it is the breed which is used exclusively on the large commercial duck farms. next to the pekin in this class probably comes the muscovy which is quite commonly kept in some sections of the country, particularly in the south. the aylesbury duck has never proved to be very popular in the united states perhaps due to its white bill and skin, although it is the popular market duck of england. the other breeds included in the meat class are kept more or less commonly but do not approach in popularity either the pekin or the muscovy. any of the breeds in this class will prove to be satisfactory for a farm flock, although the colored breeds and varieties are at a disadvantage when dressed due to their dark pin feathers. in the _egg_ class there is included only the indian runner and this of course is the breed which is kept wherever the production of duck eggs is the primary object. the fawn and white is the most popular variety of this breed. in the ornamental class there is no particular outstanding breed, since the ducks belonging in this class are kept very largely to satisfy the pleasure of the owner and the selection of a breed is entirely a matter of personal preference. egg production while the conditions under which ducks are kept and the care they are given will affect their egg production greatly, there are certain rather definite comparisons that can be made between the different breeds. the pekin is a good layer and will produce from 80 to 120 eggs. the aylesbury and the rouen are about alike in laying ability, neither being quite as good as the pekin. the cayuga is a good layer ranking with the aylesbury and rouen or between these and the pekin. the muscovy is an excellent layer being fully as prolific as the pekin, especially if broken up when broody and not allowed to sit. the blue swedish is about equal to the cayuga in laying ability. the buff duck is an excellent layer comparing favorably with the pekin or even with the runner. the runner ducks are the best layers of the duck family and if given proper care and good feed will compare favorably with hens in egg producing ability. the crested white duck is not a particularly good layer. the calls and the black east india ducks will lay from 20 to 60 eggs per year, approaching the latter number if the eggs are collected as laid and the ducks are not allowed to sit which will induce some of them to continue to lay for quite a portion of the year. extremely large ducks of any breed do not lay as well as the more medium sized birds. _size of duck eggs._ the eggs of the different meat breeds will run about the same in size with the exception of the muscovy whose eggs run a little larger. actual weights of eggs from representative flocks show pekin, rouen, aylesbury and cayuga eggs to average about 2½ pounds per dozen although there is a tendency for the rouen eggs to run somewhat larger and for cayugas to run a little smaller. muscovy eggs weigh about 3 pounds per dozen with selected large eggs weighing as high as 3¼ pounds. eggs of the runner duck are smaller but are considerably larger than average hens' eggs or about the size of large minorca eggs. they weigh about 2 pounds per dozen. eggs of the bantam breeds of ducks, the calls and the black east india, together with those of the mandarin and wood ducks will weigh from one pound to 1½ pounds per dozen depending upon the size of the ducks themselves. eggs of the mallard duck will run from 26 to 32 ounces to the dozen. the size of eggs laid by ducks, especially the bantam breeds and the mallard can be increased somewhat by liberal feeding. average hens' eggs should weigh about 1½ pounds per dozen. [illustration: fig. 3. upper--comparison of size of goose egg on the left a black egg of a cayuga duck in the center and a hen egg on the right. lower--duck eggs--at the left is a pekin duck egg, next a black egg laid by a cayuga duck, third a muscovy egg, fourth a duck egg of green color and on the extreme right the egg of a runner duck. (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _color of eggs._ the color of duck eggs ranges from white to a polished black. pekin eggs run mostly white although some show a decided blue or green tint. aylesbury eggs run quite uniformly white. the color of rouen eggs varies from white to a dark green. the cayuga produces very few white eggs, most of them being green or black, some being as black as though polished. muscovy eggs run from a white to a greenish cream in color. the eggs of the blue swedish and the buff ducks usually run white. the runner duck lays white eggs as a rule while the crested white duck lays eggs which range in color from white to green. the eggs of the call ducks run from white to green while the eggs of the black east india, like the cayuga, for the most part run from green to black. a peculiarity in regard to the egg color is that the same female may lay eggs which are widely different in color. it is likewise true that the color of the shell is influenced to some extent by the feed. ducks on range will lay darker colored eggs than those which are yarded. there is also a tendency for the eggs to run darker in color when laying first begins and for the eggs to lighten as laying proceeds. a peculiarity in regard to duck eggs with a dark colored shell is that a thorough washing will lighten up the shell color decidedly. _broodiness._ the muscovy, the call and the black east india ducks are broody breeds. the ducks of these breeds will make their nests, hatch their eggs and are good mothers. all the other breeds are classed as non-broody breeds. of course, a certain percentage of them will go broody and show a desire to sit but they do not make reliable sitters and mothers and are not as a rule used for this purpose. considerations in making the mating[1] since ducks are kept for different purposes there will of course be certain fundamental differences in the different classes in the selection of the individuals to make up the mating. whatever the purpose, however, the first consideration in selecting the breeders must be to secure those which possess excellent vigor and general health and which meet insofar as possible the standard requirements for size. where the call duck and the black east india are concerned the selection for size must be for smallness since that is a characteristic greatly desired. in the other breeds the selection for size must be to see that they come up to the standard weights for the particular breed in question. as in other classes of fowls the condition and cleanliness of the plumage and the general appearance and actions of the birds are good indications of their health and thriftiness. a bright eye is likewise a valuable indication of good health while a watery eye is usually a sign of weakness. it is necessary to guard against birds which show any tendency toward crooked or roach back, hump back, crooked tails, or twisted wings. since all breeds of ducks should have clean or unfeathered legs it is likewise necessary to guard against any breeders which show down on the shanks or between the toes as this sometimes occurs. [footnote 1: for a more detailed discussion of the principles of breeding as applied to chickens and which is equally applicable to ducks, the reader is referred to "the mating and breeding of poultry" by harry m. lamon and rob r. slocum, published by the orange judd publishing company, new york city.] in selecting the mating for any one of the meat breeds use birds which have good length, width and depth of body so that they will have plenty of meat carrying capacity. for breeders of market ducks, birds which are active, well matured and which are not extreme in size for the breed are preferable as the fertility is likely to run better than with the extremely large birds. where birds are bred for exhibition purposes, it frequently happens that it is desirable to use large breeders and to hold them for breeding purposes as long as they are in good breeding condition. where this is the case it becomes necessary to mate a smaller number of females to a drake than would be the case with smaller and younger breeders. where old birds are used as breeders better results will be secured by mating old ducks to a young drake or vice versa than by mating together old birds of both sexes. while ducks of any of the meat breeds are kept primarily for meat production, it is essential that the egg production be good throughout the breeding season in order to raise as many ducklings and secure as great a profit as possible. selection of the females as breeders should be made therefore on the basis of good egg production as well as good meat type if the conditions under which the ducks are kept are such as to make it possible to check this in any manner. in selecting the mating in the runner breed it is necessary to keep in mind that the general type of body is quite different from that of the meat breeds, being much slimmer and much more upright in body carriage. for this mating select thrifty, healthy birds and those which are active. some breeders trapnest their runner ducks or have some other means of checking up the better layers. as in chickens, it is of course desirable to use these better layers as breeders since the purpose in keeping this kind of duck is primarily egg production. in selecting the mating in the call and east india breeds it is necessary to use the smaller ducks since the object here is to keep the size small. in addition, with these breeds or with any other breeds kept and bred primarily for fancy or exhibition purposes, it is necessary to conform just as closely as possible to the standard requirements[2] both insofar as size and type are concerned, and also with respect to color. [footnote 2: for a complete and official description and list of disqualifications of the standard breeds and varieties of ducks, the reader is referred to the american standard of perfection published by the american poultry association, and obtained by orange judd publishing company, new york, n. y.] breeds of ducks _the pekin._ while this variety wants to be of good size and to have length, breadth and depth of body it is somewhat more upstanding than some of the other meat breeds, showing a definite slope of body downward from shoulders to tail. the back line of the pekin should show a slight concavity from the shoulders to the tail and the upper line of the bill is likewise slightly concave between the point where it joins the head and its extremity. the shoulders should be broad and any tendency toward narrowness at this point must be avoided. while a good depth of keel is desired, the standard does not call for so deep a keel as in the aylesbury. as a matter of fact, however, the winning specimens as seen in the shows are not as a rule as erect in carriage as called for by the standard illustration, there being a tendency to get them almost if not quite as deep in keel as the aylesbury. in fact, some breeders seem to strive for a low down keel approaching a condition where they are nearly as low in front as behind but this is not desirable pekin type. sometimes a drake will show a rough neck, that is, the feathers on the back of the neck will be crossed or folded over showing a tendency to curl. these birds should be avoided as breeders since there is a tendency for them to produce ducks having a crest. sometimes a green or a greenish spotted bill will be encountered. since the bill should be a clear yellow, breeders showing this defect should be avoided particularly as they are likely to produce birds having greenish or olive colored legs. the shanks and toes should be a clear deep orange. black sometimes occurs in the bean. this may occur in birds of either sex but is more common in the ducks than in the drakes. in the drake black in the bean disqualifies but while it is undesirable and a serious defect in the duck it does not disqualify. the color of the plumage is white or creamy white throughout. creaminess in this variety is not a serious defect as it is in white chickens. the use, however, of yellow corn and of foods very rich in oil tends to increase the creaminess of the plumage and should not be used to excess for birds which are to be exhibited. [illustration: fig. 4. upper--young pekins which on account of their size, thriftiness and rapid growth were selected out of a lot about to be killed for market and saved for breeders. lower--aylesbury drake--notice the depth and development of the breast. (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _the aylesbury._ this breed is particularly noted for its deep keel. it differs from the pekin in type in that it is more nearly level in body. there is a decided tendency for the aylesbury to run too short in body which has probably come about by extreme selection for deep keel. it is well, therefore, in making the mating to select breeders with good length of body. since the deep full breast and keel is characteristic of this breed it is necessary to avoid breeders which show any tendency toward a flat breast. as in the case of the pekins avoid any birds which have green or olive colored bills. the back line of the aylesbury should be straight, showing no tendency toward a slight concavity as in the pekin. birds showing this shape back should be avoided. as in the pekin black on the bill or bean of the drake will disqualify and in the duck is a serious defect. the color of plumage should be white throughout and should show no tendency toward creaminess. the bill in this breed is flesh colored instead of yellow as in the pekin. the aylesbury is not quite as nervous a breed as the pekin. _the rouen._ the rouen duck is a parti-colored breed and is therefore much more difficult to secure in perfection of color and marking than is the case with the white breeds. moreover, the dark pin feathers make the ducks more difficult to dress than in white breeds. in type these birds are very level in body and are massive, carrying a great deal of meat. avoid birds showing a lack of length of body or depth of keel or which are too flat in breast. the back of the rouen should have a slightly convex or arched shape from neck to tail and it is necessary to guard against birds which have a flat or a concave back. the body of the rouen should be carried practically horizontal. the upper line of the bill should be slightly dished or concave. the white ring about the neck of the drake is an important part of the marking. this should not be too wide but should run about a quarter of an inch in width. it should be as distinct and clean cut as possible but should not quite come together in the rear. any approach to a ring in the female is a disqualification. white in the primary or secondary wing feathers is a serious defect since it constitutes a disqualification. it must therefore be carefully avoided. white feathers in the fluff of the drake is another color defect which must be guarded against. _breast of drake._ the farther the claret color on the breast of the drake extends down the better will be the females secured from the mating. drakes which are deficient in the amount of claret on the breast should therefore be thrown out as breeders. a purple rump in drakes must be avoided as must black feathers over the rump as they tend to keep up too dark a body color in the female. on the other hand too bright or light a color in the male or exhibition female will produce females which are too light in color. drakes with light olive colored bills must be avoided as these will have a tendency to produce offspring which show too much yellow in the females' bills, and clear yellow bills constitute a disqualification. in the females solid yellow bills, fawn colored breasts and absence of penciling must be avoided. females which are dark or nearly black over the rump are good breeders as they tend to keep up the ground color of the body and tail. the rouen shows some tendency to fade in color. this is evidenced first on the tips of the wings. the fading will also show in the fluff of drakes. the drakes of this breed and likewise of the gray call and the mallard show a peculiar behavior with respect to the color of their plumage. about june 1 the drakes moult, losing their characteristic male adult plumage and the new plumage is practically that of the female. this female plumage is retained until about october when they gradually regain their normal winter male plumage. young rouens of both sexes have female plumage until the last moult which occurs at about four or five months of age, when the drakes assume the adult male plumage. the sex of the young rouens can, however, be told by the difference in the color of the bills. [illustration: fig. 5. upper--rouen drake. notice the low set, nearly horizontal body, the massive appearance and the arched back. lower--pair of black east india ducks. (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 6. upper--rouen drake showing summer plumage. at this season the rouen drake assumes a plumage resembling quite closely that of the female. in the fall the drake again assumes the normal male plumage. lower--rouen duck. (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _the cayuga._ the cayuga is much like the other breeds of the meat class in general type or shape of body showing good length, breadth and depth. it is a very solid duck and weighs heavier than it looks. the body carriage is slightly more upright than the rouen but not so much so as the pekin. the back line should be straight and any tendency toward an arched back must be avoided. it is slightly smaller than the pekin, aylesbury and rouen, averaging about a pound less. in making the mating, size is important and breeders should be selected which are up to standard weights if possible. while this breed is not kept very widely at the present time, nevertheless it is an excellent market duck, dressing out into a very plump yellow carcass in spite of its black plumage which is a disadvantage in dressing. the color should be a lustrous greenish black throughout, being somewhat brighter in the drake than in the duck. the duck is more likely to show a brownish cast of plumage, particularly as she grows older. it is hard to hold good black color with age. moreover, white or gray is apt to occur in the breast of females. with age also a little white sometimes develops on the back of the neck, around the eyes and underneath the neck at the base of the bill. the white which occurs in breast is more likely to come in ducks and is not commonly found in the drakes. in the drakes on the other hand, there is a tendency for the white to come on the throat under the bill. drakes as a rule run truer in color and hold their color better than do the ducks. where the white mottling occurs in plumage with age one need not hesitate to breed from these birds if they were of good black color as young birds. the drakes of the best color do not as a rule fade or become mottled to any great extent with age. it is necessary to guard against birds as breeders which have a rusty brown lacing on the breast and under the wings, also those which have a wing-bow laced with brown. there is a tendency for the bill of drakes, which should be black, to be too light or olive in color and this tendency increases with age. drakes with bills of this color should be avoided as breeders. when cayugas are first hatched the baby ducks all show a white breast. [illustration: fig. 7. upper--cayuga duck. lower--cayuga drake. (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _the call._ the call ducks are the bantams of the duck race. there is always a tendency for them to grow too large and this is especially true when they have an opportunity to eat all they want as for example when they are fed with the larger ducks. they should not be fed too liberally and should be given wheat or some other solid grain rather than any mash. if there is a good pond of water to which the call ducks can have access they do not need to be fed much of anything. in breeding, the smallest individuals which are suitable in other respects for breeders, should be selected in order to keep down the size and offset the tendency to breed larger in successive generations. in type the calls are practically miniature pekins except that they should have a very short, rather broad head and bill. the broad flat and short bill and the round short head give the head an appearance which is often described by the term "button headed". in this breed avoid birds which show arched backs. the body should have what is known as a flatiron shape, that is, should be broad at the shoulders and taper toward the tail. too deep keels and narrow shoulders should be avoided as should also too long bills. call ducks, together with east indias and mallards should have their wings clipped or be pinioned, that is, have the first joint of one wing cut off, to prevent them from flying away. _the gray call._ the plumage of the gray call is practically that of the rouen although they are not quite as good in color as a breed. there is more of a tendency for some of the birds to run to dark and others, especially the males, to run too light in color. while they are likely to be well penciled the shade of color is apt to be wrong. white in the flights and under the wings must be guarded against as must also absence of ribbon or wing bar in females. the color of the plumage is likely to fade with age but after the birds moult and secure their new plumage, the color is usually higher again. in general the same color characteristics hold true as with the rouen and the same defects must be guarded against. [illustration: fig. 8. upper--gray call drake. lower--gray call duck. (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture_.)] _the white call._ this variety is, both in type and color, practically a miniature pekin except for the short, rather broad head and bill. they breed very true in color and should be free from creaminess. the same general defects must be watched for and avoided as in the pekin. [illustration: fig. 9. upper--white call duck. lower--white call drake. (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _the black east india._ this is a black breed which is small in size being a bantam duck like the call. as a matter of fact it is a miniature cayuga. the color should be black throughout and the same color characteristics hold true as in the case of the cayuga. the same color defects must therefore be guarded against, the worst one being white in the breast of females especially. avoid breeding from a drake with a black bill as in this respect the breed differs from the cayuga since the bill of the duck should be black but that of the drake should be very dark green. purple barring must be carefully selected against. _the muscovy._ this breed differs in certain respects very markedly from the other standard breeds of ducks. they are long and broad in body which is carried in a horizontal position but are not so deep in keel as the pekin, aylesbury or rouen. the longest bodied young ducks will make the largest individuals. the head should have feathers on the top which can be elevated at will to form a crest. guard against breeders having smooth heads, or in other words, lacking a crest. the face is covered with corrugations or caruncles and should be red in color. at the base of the upper bill there is a sort of knob-like formation in the drake which serves as one of the distinguishing characteristics between the duck and drake of this breed. the more prominent the knob and the more wrinkled or corrugated the face the better is the specimen in this respect. the wings are long and strong and these birds fly very well. they will also climb fences. the drakes are quite pugnacious and fight one another badly at times. they are especially pugnacious when they have young. this breed of ducks will often roost on roosts like chickens or in the trees or on the barn. they do not quack like other ducks and unlike other domesticated breeds which moult two or three times a year, they moult only once, taking longer to do so, usually about 90 days, although the female may complete her moult a little sooner. the period of incubation for muscovy eggs is longer, being from 33 to 35 days as compared to 28 days for other breeds. in size the male and female differ considerably as will be seen from the standard weights given (see page 14), the male being considerably larger. these ducks lay well, the fertility runs good, the eggs hatch well, and the little ducks are hardy and easily raised. they are a broody breed. the ducks will make their nests and hatch out their eggs if allowed to do so and are excellent mothers. sometimes they will fly up and make their nests in a hollow tree. a muscovy duck can cover properly about 20 eggs. in spite of the fact that they fly well they are easily domesticated. it takes about two years for the males of this breed to fully mature although the ducks get their full size when one year of age. the muscovy is perhaps the best general purpose breed for a farm flock. the extent and intensity of the red of the face increases up to maturity and the redder the face the better. the plumage of the muscovy is not as downy or oily as other breeds, the feathers being harder. for this reason the birds are more apt to become water soaked and to drown as a result when they have not been accustomed to water in which to swim. this is especially true of the drakes on account of their large size and long wing feathers. muscovy ducks dress well, having a rich yellow skin, and therefore make a good market duck, although the difference in size of the duck and drake and the dark pin feathers of the colored variety are disadvantages from a market standpoint. select against breeders which run small in size as there is more or less of a tendency for this breed to decrease in size. the muscovy is long lived, specimens having been known to breed until they were eight or ten years of age. _the colored muscovy._ although the standard calls for more or less white in different sections of this variety, as a matter of fact breeders desire to get the birds as dark as possible except for a very small patch of white on the breast and a small patch of white on the center of the wing. indeed, birds without the white on the breast and with very little on the wing are valuable breeders since there is a tendency for too much white to occur in the plumage. occasionally all black birds occur and these can be used to advantage in breeding when there is a tendency toward too much white in plumage. plumage more than half white is a disqualification. the dark plumage birds such as are wanted are very likely to show considerable black or gypsy color in the face which should be a good red. this must be selected against insofar as possible. the nearly black or the darkest birds are quite likely to show some white or grizzling on the head. grizzled or brownish penciled feathers sometimes occur in various parts of the plumage and must of course be guarded against as the markings should be distinctly black and white. the baby ducks of this variety are quite apt to show considerable white although the best of them come yellowish black. this variety tends to run a little larger in size than the white variety although the standard weights are the same for both. dun or chocolate colored ducks sometimes come from colored muscovies while blue muscovies can be produced by crossing the colored and the white varieties. [illustration: fig. 10. upper--colored muscovy drake. notice the partly erect crest feather on top of the head. lower--white muscovy drake. notice the long, horizontal body and the rough or carunculated face. (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _the white muscovy._ this variety should have pure white plumage throughout. young muscovies of both sexes often have a patch of black on top of the head up to the time they moult at maturity. since black disqualifies it is impossible to show young ducks in this condition but these black feathers usually come in white after the moult and such birds need not therefore be discarded as breeders. when it is desired to show young white muscovies which have black on the head it is customary to pluck these black feathers a sufficient time before the show so that the white feathers which come in their place will have time to grow out. there is little or no trouble with black or gypsy face in this variety. [illustration: fig. 11. upper--crested white drake. lower--young white muscovy duck showing black on top of the head. this is not an unusual occurrence and the black is lost when the bird gets its mature plumage in the fall. (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _the blue swedish._ in type and size this breed is about the same as the cayuga although perhaps slightly more upstanding. in selecting the mating it is important to use birds which are close to standard weight as there is somewhat of a tendency for the size to be too small. as its name indicates the color is largely blue except for a white heart-shaped patch or bib which should be present on the breast. sometimes this white extends along the underside of the body from the under-bill almost to the vent. such birds are undesirable as breeders since they show too much white. on the other hand birds lacking a prominent white bib must also be avoided. two of the flight feathers should be white and birds lacking these must be avoided. guard against any red, gray or black in any part of the plumage. sometimes, however, birds having more or less black throughout the plumage are used as breeders for the purpose of strengthening the blue color. avoid any tendency toward a ribbon on the wing-bow and also birds that are too light, ashy or washed out in the blue color. sometimes birds show lines of white feathers around the eyes and over the head and these should be selected against as breeders as they are likely to cause white splashing in the plumage. yellow or greenish bills must likewise be avoided since the first of these is a disqualification. in general this variety in breeding behaves insofar as color is concerned, very much like the blue andalusian chicken.[3] the young ducks when hatched are yellow or creamy blue and from blue matings there are also produced black and white ducklings. as in other colored breeds and varieties, the dark pin feathers are somewhat of a disadvantage from a market standpoint. [footnote 3: for a detailed discussion of the behaviour of the blue andalusian in breeding, the reader is referred to "the mating and breeding of poultry" by harry m. lamon and rob r. slocum, published by the orange judd publishing company, new york city.] [illustration: fig. 12. blue swedish duck showing white flight feathers. the standard calls for only two white flights, but there is a decided tendency as shown here for more flights to be white. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _the crested white._ although not so large, this breed is much like the pekin but with body carried more nearly horizontal and with a crest on the head. the type varies considerably however, the principal selection practiced having been for crest. the plumage is white in color throughout. what is desired in the crest is to have as large a one as possible, round and perfect in form, and set squarely on the head. not infrequently crooked crests occur and also double or split crests, that is to say, where the crest is parted or divided. in some cases the crests may even come treble, that is, split into three parts. entire absence of crest is by no means uncommon. in fact, it is considered a pretty good proportion if one half of the ducks hatched have crests although the matings vary considerably in this, occasionally one producing practically 100% of the offspring with crests. avoid as breeders birds with small crests, lopped crests, split crests or showing an absence of crest. avoid also breeders showing mottled or green bills in females and black bean in the bill of drakes. _the buff._ in type this breed is similar to the swedish. as will be seen from the standard weights it is one of the medium sized breeds and makes a very nice market bird as it dresses out into a nice round fat carcass and is a good layer. in color the birds of both sexes should be as uniform a buff as possible except that the head and upper part of the neck in the drake should be seal brown when in full plumage. color defects which are likely to be encountered and which should be avoided are the tendency for the head of the drake to run to a chestnut color and for his neck to be too light or faded out in color. sometimes the head of the drake runs too dark in color approaching a greenish black like the head of the rouen. this is of course undesirable. the wings of both sexes are apt to run to light or even in some cases, pure white flights. blue wing bars are sometimes shown and these must be carefully avoided. penciling such as is found in the fawn and white runner sometimes occurs and since it is a serious defect must be rigidly guarded against. any tendency toward a white bib or a white ring around the neck of both sexes must likewise be avoided. greenish or mottled bills must be avoided in ducks which are to be used as breeders. not much trouble is experienced in the bill of drakes which as a rule comes good. any blue cast in the feathers on the rump and back of both sexes must be selected against. as a rule the females of this breed tend to be better colored than the males. at certain periods of the moult the head coloring of the drakes becomes a good buff color and later when the moult is complete, it changes to a copper color. when hatched the ducklings are a creamy yellow. [illustration: fig. 13. pair of buff ducks--drake on the right (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _the runner._ the type of this breed is quite different from that of the other breed of ducks and type is very important. the runner wants to be decidedly upstanding and to be very reachy. it should have very slim slender lines. the neck should be straight and the head should be carried at right angles to the neck. the bill should be perfectly straight on top and on a line with the skull showing absolutely no tendency to be dished. the legs of this breed are longer than those of other ducks and this accounts for the fact that they run rather than waddle when they move about. it is from this fact that they get their name. they are very active and are troublesome about crawling through fences. they are good layers and non-sitters and they have often been called the leghorns of the duck family. it must be remembered, however, that while they have the inherent ability to lay as well as hens they will do this only when they receive proper feed and care. it is quite useless to expect a high egg yield from them when they are carelessly fed and improperly housed and cared for. avoid as breeders ducks of both sexes that are too heavy behind, or in other words, are too heavy-bottomed. avoid birds which are too short in legs. avoid crooked or sharp backs. round heads must likewise be avoided. _the fawn and white runner._ in this variety the markings must be very distinct and definite. there is a tendency which must be avoided for the head to run to black instead of chestnut, especially in males. it is likewise necessary to avoid females which tend to show penciling on the sides of the breast or on the wing-bows. these defects are apt to be associated with colored flight feathers which is also a defect to be avoided. guard against too much fawn extending up the neck from the body to the head as the neck should be white in color. too dark tail coverts approaching a greenish black sometimes occur and are undesirable. in type this variety will not average quite as good as the white. _the white runner._ this variety is best in type and it likewise runs good in color which should be white throughout. sometimes foreign color will be shown in the back of females and this of course must be avoided. also avoid birds as breeders with green or mottled bills. [illustration: fig. 14. penciled runner drake on left and white runner drake on right. (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _the penciled runner._ in type this variety runs about the same as the fawn and white. the color combination is rather difficult to breed as it is hard to get the good penciling desired in the female together with the white markings. in general, in breeding this variety there is a tendency to pay more attention to type than to color. the penciling is like that of the rouen but lighter in color consisting of a brown penciling on a fawn colored ground. avoid any grayish stippling on the breast of the drake and also on the wing-bows. these defects are likely to be associated with colored flights which are undesirable. the colored portion of the head of the drake is darker than that of the duck in this variety. avoid lack of white on the neck in both sexes and avoid females which are lacking in penciling. _preparing ducks for the show._ aside from selecting the individuals which most nearly approach the standard requirements there is very little which can be done in the way of preparing the birds for the show as these fowls are practically self-prepared. for a period of at least a week or ten days before they are shipped to the show those intended for exhibition should be given access to a grass range and also if possible to running water. the grass range will keep them in good condition and the running water will allow them to clean themselves. any broken feathers should be plucked at least six weeks before the birds are to be shown in order to allow the feathers time enough to grow out again. it must be remembered that most ducks after getting in a good condition of flesh do not tend to hold this for a very long period but soon grow thinner again and will not take on fat the second time for some little period. often there will be a difference in weight as high as 3 pounds when a duck is in good condition and after it has thinned. in order to have the ducks in top form, therefore, it is necessary to bring them up to flesh at the proper time. in order to bring ducks which are to be exhibited up to standard weight, they should be fed twice daily, for at least 10 days before shipping, a grain mixture consisting of one part corn and two parts oats. give them all they will eat of this mixture. with runners and the small breeds of ducks there is a danger of their putting on too much weight if corn is used in the ration and it is therefore best to give them oats alone. when the birds are shipped to the show they are quite likely to get their plumage soiled during the journey. when this occurs fill a barrel about half full of water. then as the ducks are taken out of the shipping coops take three of them at a time, put them in the barrel and cover it over, leaving them for a few minutes. when they are taken out they will usually be clean. catching and handling ducks ducks should never be caught by the legs which are short and weak and are very likely to be injured. for the same reason they should never be carried by the legs. ducks should be caught by the neck, grasping them just below the head. they can be carried short distances without injury in this way but it is not advisable to carry fat ducks by the neck for any considerable distance. the best way to handle them is to catch them by the neck, then carry them on the arm with the legs in the hand just as one would carry a chicken. see fig. 15. a scoop net about 18 inches in diameter and with a six foot handle can also be used to excellent advantage in catching ducks. [illustration: fig. 15. two methods of carrying ducks. (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] packing and shipping hatching eggs eggs for hatching must be shipped when they are fresh as duck eggs tend to deteriorate in quality quite rapidly. they may be shipped fairly long distances. shipment may be made either by express or by parcel post. in order to prevent breakage and to lessen the effects of the jar to which the eggs are subjected during shipment, they must be carefully packed. one of the best methods is to use an ordinary market basket. line the basket well on the bottom and sides with excelsior. wrap each egg in paper and then wrap in excelsior so that there will be a good thick cushion of excelsior between the eggs and they will not be allowed to come in contact with one another. pack the eggs in the basket securely standing them on end so that they cannot move or shift around. cover the top of the eggs with a thick layer of excelsior using enough so that it runs up well above the sides of the basket. over the top sew a piece of strong cotton cloth. instead of sewing the cloth it can be pushed up under the outside rim of the basket with a case knife, this being quicker and equally as effective as sewing. chapter iii commercial duck farming--location--estimate of equipment and capital necessary in starting the business _distribution._ commercial duck farming is confined very largely to the sections within easy shipping distance of the larger cities. a great majority of these farms are located about new york city, particularly on long island. some duck farms are located on the pacific coast and a few commercial plants are scattered about here and there throughout the country. the size of these farms ranges all the way from plants with an output of 5,000 or 10,000 ducklings up to those with an output around 100,000 yearly. _stock used._ the stock used on the commercial duck plants of the united states consists exclusively of the pekin. the reasons for the use of this particular breed are the fact that it has white plumage and therefore dresses out well, that it is of good size, that its egg production is good, and that it makes quick growth. _location of plant._ on long island the commercial duck plants are located along the streams, especially those on the southern shore of the island, which empty into the various bays. locations along these streams are not easy to secure at the present time owing to the fact that duck farms are not allowed in many sections where summer homes have been built. a water site of this sort is very valuable, although not absolutely essential, since it provides water yards for the breeding ducks and for the fattening ducklings if desired, and reduces the labor and cost of equipment materially since the ducks always have access to water and no additional provision need be made to provide them with drinking water. it also enables the ducks to keep their plumage clean. usually these locations are on fresh water streams but some of them are further out toward the bay where the water is salty or at least brackish. the mature ducks thrive well on the salt water and do not have to be furnished with fresh drinking water in addition. for the young ducks, however, with a salt water location it is necessary to provide fresh drinking water. a few farms in other sections of the country are what are known as dry land farms, that is to say, they are not situated on the bank of a stream. in such locations running water is carried through the yards so that the ducks have an ample supply of drinking water and in some cases artificial ponds are constructed to provide water in which the breeding ducks can swim. formerly the idea was universally held that swimming water was essential for the breeders in order to secure good fertility, and many duck farmers still believe that better results can be secured in this way. on some of the dry land duck farms, however, breeding ducks are successfully kept without such swimming places. the young market ducklings do not require water to swim in although some raisers prefer to have it and it is commonly allowed where readily available. on the dry land farms provision is made simply for a continuous supply of fresh drinking water for the fattening ducklings. ducklings kept out of the water, do not take as much exercise and, in consequence, fatten a little more readily. making a start in duck farming duck farms or plants are sometimes operated on a considerable scale at the beginning, the plans being carefully laid by some experienced duck man. in these cases, operations at the start may be of sufficient magnitude so that the output will amount to 15,000 or 20,000 ducklings in a year. in most cases, however, these places have been the result of a more gradual growth from a small beginning, a condition made necessary either by the inexperience of the grower or by lack of capital. not infrequently men engaged in other forms of farming but possessing a suitable location will keep 200 or 300 breeding ducks and from this gradually build up a good sized duck plant. _equipment, capital, etc. required._ the estimates given as to the amount of equipment and capital required are based on the assumption that a plant is to be operated of sufficient size to have a yearly output of about 30,000 ducklings. it must be understood in this connection that location and various other conditions or circumstances will influence the cost of different items of equipment and for this reason these estimates must not be considered as absolute but should rather serve as a guide or basis on which to figure. the figures here given contemplate the building up of an establishment which is efficient but which is in no particular elaborate, the buildings and other equipment being as simple and inexpensive as possible. _lay-out or arrangement of the plant._ the plant must be carefully planned so as to make the best possible use of the land and particularly of the water frontage. it is particularly important to arrange the buildings in such a manner as to cut down labor as much as possible. if there is any expectation of enlarging the capacity at some future time, this must also be borne in mind in the arrangement of the various buildings and yards. the incubator cellar should be convenient to the no. 1 brooder house and the various brooder houses to one another. the brooder house must likewise be convenient to the growing and fattening houses and yards and these in turn to the killing house. the feed room should be centrally located so as to save labor as much as possible in feeding the ducks. _land required._ for a duck plant of the size indicated 10 acres of land should be ample. this, however, means that no effort would be made to grow any of the feed for the ducks or ducklings with the exception of green feed. in some cases where the lay of the land is unusually favorable so that the plant can be laid out to the very best advantage, a smaller amount of ground than this might be sufficient but it is not well to figure on less than 10 acres. _number of breeders required._ with the usual methods of management and with good success, one may estimate that 40 young ducks can be marketed each year from each breeding female. this is a good average although in some good years duck raisers will do a little better than this. on the other hand in poor years they will not do so well. for a plant having an output of 30,000 market ducks there would therefore be needed in the neighborhood of 800 breeding ducks in addition to 100 drakes. _housing required for breeders._ in figuring on the amount of housing required for this number of breeding ducks, it is necessary to figure on 2½ to 3 square feet of floor space per bird, 3 square feet being better than 2½. this would require a housing space 20 feet deep by 120 feet long. however ducks are not usually housed in one building of this size, and in fact it is better not to do so since the smaller the flock of breeders kept together the better they will do. in no case should a duck raiser run more than 400 ducks in a flock and it is very much better to run them in pens of 100 each. in fact, some breeders do not place more than 25 to 50 breeding ducks in a pen. _incubator capacity._ incubators are used exclusively for hatching the eggs. at the present time in practically all cases some form of hot water mammoth incubator is utilized for this purpose. an investment is required both in incubators and in a cellar in which to operate them. in figuring on the incubator capacity necessary to take care of a proposition of this size, it is necessary to base the estimate on the number of eggs produced during the season of flush production. the duck raiser figures on incubating all eggs suitable for the purpose rather than to sell any of them for other purposes as there is a greater profit in rearing and marketing the ducklings. for that reason he must have incubator capacity enough to take care of all the eggs laid at any time of the year. during the season of flush production the yield will ordinarily run in the neighborhood of 80%. the period of incubation is 28 days but 2 days more should be added to this to allow for cleaning out the machines, etc., before starting another hatch. this means that there would be 30 days between hatches. figuring on 800 ducks with an 80% production for 30 days an incubator capacity of around 19,200 eggs would be required. _brooder capacity._ a brooder house capacity, where artificial heat can be supplied, sufficient to take care of about half of the total output of the plant at one time is necessary. this means there would have to be on this plant a heated brooder house capacity for 15,000 ducklings. about half of this number or 7500 would need accommodations in the number 1 or warmest brooder house where the heat can be kept up to 65 or 70 degrees in the house itself, and warmer of course under the hover. the other 7500 ducklings capacity would be in the number 2 house, that is, a house where heat could be supplied in the early spring and where the temperature could be run up to 60 degrees. hovers in such a house are not really needed but it is common to cover the hot waterpipes with a platform in order to provide a runway on which one can run a wheel barrow and thus simplify feeding. ordinarily after may 1 no heat is needed in the number 2 brooder house. the young ducks are usually 2 to 3 weeks old when they go into the number 2 house and they stay there for about 2 weeks depending on the weather. heat for the brooder houses is supplied by means of hot water pipes and a coal burning stove such as are used in brooder houses for chickens. a number 3 or cold brooder house is also needed where ducklings can be housed and can be driven in at night and in cold weather after they have graduated from the number 2 house. from the number 3 house a part of the ducklings are taken directly to the yards where they are housed in open front sheds. _fattening houses or sheds._ in addition to the brooder houses, there are required fattening houses or sheds for the ducks when they are moved from the no. 3 brooder house to the yards. suitable houses for this purpose are 16 feet deep by 24 feet long. in front they are 5 feet high and in the rear 3½ feet. they are set on posts with a base board around to make them tight. the fronts are entirely open and provided with curtains which are used only in the winter to keep out the snow. the ducklings are shut in these houses when desired by means of wire panels which close the lower part of the front. houses such as described are divided into two parts and each side will accommodate 200 ducklings. _feed storage._ considerable feed storage room is necessary as it is very desirable to be able to buy feed in quantity and also to carry a considerable stock on hand in order to offset the possibility of not being able to secure feed at any time. there should be storage capacity for 4 cars of 30 tons each, in other words, for 120 tons of feed. still greater capacity than this is desirable. in connection with the feed storage there should be a place where the feed can be mixed and where feed can be cooked. two power operated feed mixers are required as one is not sufficient during the busy season to allow the mixing and feeding of the mash for both the breeders and the young stock at the same time. a feed cutter is necessary in preparing the green feed which is mixed in the mash. the usual type of kettle feed cooker is commonly used for boiling fish and preparing other cooked feeds but in its place a small four-horse steam boiler can be utilized to good advantage as this makes it possible to cook the feed right in the mixer by using a steam hose. _killing and picking house._ a killing and picking house where the ducks can be prepared for market is another necessary building but this need not be an expensive building. it must be located with reference to its convenience to the rest of the plant. it is also desirable to locate it over a spring if one is available for the spring water can be used to excellent advantage in cooling the dressed ducklings. when a spring is not available water must be piped to this building. the killing house is usually built with at least one side open or partly open. a place is provided outside the picking room where the ducks can be hung and bled. inside room is required for six or eight pickers. a kettle for heating water to be used in scalding the ducks is necessary as are also tanks in which to place the ducks after they are picked. additional room is needed where the ducks can be weighed and packed ready for shipment. _residence._ in addition to the other buildings enumerated, a residence would of course be necessary. the size and elaborateness of this and consequently its cost depends entirely upon the owner's needs and wishes. _horse power._ one horse and wagon for the purpose of drawing the feed about the plant and for certain other necessary work would be required. if the owner desires to do his own hauling of the feed from the railroad and the other necessary trucking he would, of course, have to keep more horses, a team at least, or an automobile truck. where only one horse is kept, this trucking must be hired done. _feeding track._ on many of the larger duck farms, a feed track is employed in feeding the stock. such a track consists of a framework of sufficient strength to support a car filled with mash which is pushed along the track by hand. the track leads from the feed mixer across the various yards where the ducks to be fed are located, including both the breeding ducks, yard ducks and brooder ducks in yards. this involves a considerable amount of trackage which must be fairly level and which runs over the yard fences or along the ends of the yards so that the feed can be shoveled directly from the car into the feeding trays in the yards. the use of a feed track simplifies the feeding considerably but its construction is quite expensive. where a track is not used, the feed as mixed is dumped into a low wagon which is driven along the yards, or through them by removing movable panels in the fences and the feed shoveled from the wagon to the feed trays. [illustration: fig. 16. power feed mixer. the feed is dumped into a low wagon from which it is shoveled to the ducks. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _electric lights._ most duck farms at the present time are located where electric lighting is available. it is desirable and in fact almost necessary to have the various houses wired so that lights can be turned on when desired. in addition, lights are usually provided in the yards for fattening ducks and are used at night and especially during storms to keep the ducks from stampeding. _water supply._ an adequate water supply is essential. this will consist of a well or spring furnishing an ample amount of water, a power pump and a water supply tank. from the tank, the water must be piped to the incubator cellar, the brooder houses, the killing house, the feed house and to any of the yards where the ducks do not have access to a natural supply of good water. in addition, of course, the water from the same tank is usually used to supply the residence. _fences._ not a great deal of investment is necessary in fences since the yards are rather small and the fences are low. two-foot fences of two-inch mesh wire are used for the yard ducks while for the little ducks 18-inch wire of one-inch mesh is used. the biggest items of expense connected with the fences are the cost of the stakes or posts used in their construction and the labor used in this work. the portion of the yards extending into the water are the most troublesome and most expensive to build. in some cases, rather elaborate wooden picket fences are used in the water yards. these are more permanent but are more expensive to build. _labor._ for a plant of the size indicated there would be required in addition to an active working proprietor three other men. one man would be needed to operate the incubators, one man would devote his time to the brooder houses, one man would feed the yard ducks and the fattening pens, and one man would do the killing and packing, take care of the feathers, clean the yards, etc. of course, there would be periods when these men would not have their entire time taken up with their particular duties and this would permit them to turn in and help with the miscellaneous work on the plant. in addition to the regular men employed, additional labor would be necessary to do the picking. for this purpose pickers are usually brought in and work by the piece. during the spring of 1920 these pickers received six cents per duck and they will average about 75 ducks a day, beginning work at 6 in the morning and finishing by noon or a little later. some pickers will average as high as 100 ducks a day. in the busy season from 800 to 1200 ducks will be marketed per week and the usual practice is to kill and pick not over three days a week, usually during the first part of the week. _invested capital._ investment in the business exclusive of working capital, that is to say, the money in the land and buildings and other equipment would require under present conditions about $1,000 for each thousand ducks marketed. in other words, in a plant of this size, close to $30,000 would be invested. the amount of invested capital depends to some extent upon location and upon the elaborateness of the buildings and other equipment but with a well laid out economical plant an investment of the size indicated should be sufficient. _working capital._ in addition to the capital invested in the plant there would be required a considerable amount of working capital. from the first of november to the beginning of the marketing of the ducks there would be required from $6,000 to $8,000 with which to purchase feed, meet the pay roll, and for other running expenses. even after the marketing begins there would be a period of from a month to six weeks when the expenses will continue to be greater than the receipts so that some additional capital might be necessary. however, returns would begin to come in which could be used to take care of the more pressing current obligations so that additional working capital which might be needed over that indicated would not be large. _profits._ the profits in commercial duck raising vary widely, as must be expected, depending upon the management, upon the season and upon prices received. after deducting all overhead charges and interest on the investment, the net return per duck should be at least 10 cents per duckling marketed. in fact the return should be 15 cents to provide much inducement to engage in the business. some seasons the returns will run greater than this but on the other hand, there is always the chance of occasional big losses. chapter iv commercial duck farming--management of the breeding stock _age of breeders._ on most large commercial duck plants the entire breeding stock is renewed each year. in other words, the breeders are kept only through their first laying season. this makes it necessary to select from the young stock reared and save for breeders as many head as it is desired to carry for the coming year. this practice is used for the reason that ducks lay best during their first year. therefore, since it is desired to keep up the maximum egg production in order to raise as many market ducks as possible, young breeders are considered better. some raisers, however, keep a part of their breeding ducks for two years and occasionally for 3 or even 4 years but this is not the usual practice. recent comparison made between young and two year old ducks as breeders would seem to indicate that ducklings hatched from the eggs of the latter live a little better. _distinguishing young from old ducks._ in this connection it is of interest to know how young ducks can be readily distinguished from the older birds. the young ducks have bright yellow legs and bills while the old ducks after a period of laying, lose a considerable amount of the yellow from these sections. in addition, soon after the ducks begin to lay, their bills as a rule will begin to be streaked with black. young ducks can also be told from the old ducks by feeling of the end of the breast bone which runs to a point at the abdomen. in the older ducks this is hard while in the young ducks it is gristly and bends easily. the windpipe of an old duck is hard and rather difficult to compress or dent while in the young duck it is softer and easily dented. _selection of breeding ducks._ the breeders are usually selected from the ducklings which reach market age from the last week in june through july. as these lots become ready for market and are driven into the pens to be slaughtered each duck is handled and any especially good birds which the proprietor thinks will make good breeders are thrown out at this time. in making selection of breeders those are chosen which are healthy and thrifty and which have good wide, long and deep bodies. ducks with crooked wings, crooked tails, hump backs or paddle legs are rejected for this purpose. after the young ducks for breeders are selected they are put in a yard or fattening pen until the number which the owner expects to keep is complete. these young breeders generally begin to moult soon after they are selected and from this time on they are fed whole corn and plenty of green feed until it is time to begin feeding the laying ration. some of the breeding ducks will usually begin to lay about december 1 although they will not lay heavily at that time. the laying ration described later should be begun about that time or a couple of weeks earlier. _number of females to a drake._ as a rule on commercial duck farms the birds are mated in the proportion of about one drake to seven ducks. this proportion will vary to some extent under different methods of management and weather conditions and may run all the way from 1 to 5 to 1 to 8. the smaller number of drakes should be used late in the season while the larger number will give better fertility early in the breeding season. since the drakes do not fight seriously, flock matings can be made. better results will be obtained from smaller flocks than from large flocks and there will also be less cracked eggs and less very dirty eggs from the smaller flocks. before the ducks are let out in the morning there is a tendency for them to run back and forth through the pens, and in this way they tramp over many of the eggs which are laid anywhere about the floor. the larger the flock the more cracked and dirty eggs will result. while the drakes do not fight each other they do at times injure and kill the ducks to some extent when three or four drakes may chase one duck. in this way they may injure the ducks' backs and often pick their eyes and necks. whenever a duck is found which is injured she should be removed from the flock. difficulty of this sort is most prevalent about the 1st of march. if the trouble gets very bad it can be stopped to some extent by cutting back the upper bills of the drakes about one-fourth of an inch with a tinsnip or by reducing the proportion of drakes. _securing breeding drakes._ it is common practice on duck plants to avoid inbreeding by securing drakes from some other flock each year. this is usually accomplished by buying the drakes outright from some neighboring duck farmer. it may also be accomplished by purchasing a few eggs for hatching in order to secure new blood. in any particular community there is a tendency for the duck farmers to trade breeding drakes among themselves for a period of years with the result that they all have much the same blood and not a great deal of benefit is obtained from securing the drakes from some neighbor's flock. it is undoubtedly good practice to go farther afield occasionally for a supply of breeding drakes. in purchasing stock for new blood be sure that it is as good as the home stock and better if it can be found. it will do no good to purchase and use inferior stock and may do much harm. houses and yards for breeders the breeding flocks are usually confined to breeding yards. the size of these yards depends upon the size of the breeding flock but large yards are not required. a yard for 200 breeders is not as a rule larger than 100 by 200 feet including the water part of the yard. houses and yards should be located on sand if possible as this is easier to keep clean and therefore keeps the birds in better condition. occasional flocks of breeding ducks are allowed their liberty but this is not common practice nor is it good practice unless the surroundings are clean and the ducks do not have access to stagnant mud or refuse in which they can work. if ducks work too much in this kind of material they will eat more or less of it which injures the eggs for hatching purposes. many different styles of houses are used for breeders, some of which are decidedly more elaborate than is necessary. a very satisfactory economical house is one 20 feet deep, 7 feet high in front and 4 feet at back, with a shed roof. this can be constructed of tongue and groove material or may be made of unmatched stuff and covered with paper. a house of this proportion makes a good light house and it can be carried in length according to the size of the flock. for a breeding unit of 200 ducks, which is a good unit to use, a house 20 feet deep and 30 to 40 feet long is suitable. no floor is used in the house but it should be well filled up with dirt so that the water will not come in. one or more good sized openings are left in the front of the breeding house for ventilation, or windows may be placed in the front which can be used for this purpose. good ventilation is necessary. additional ventilation is secured from the doors. if the weather is mild the doors are left partly open, if cold they are nearly closed, while when the weather is hot they are left entirely open. a good scheme is to use a sort of dutch door so that the bottom or top half can be opened independently. in this way the top part of the doors can be left open so as to let in the sunlight and still keep the ducks in the house or the top may be left closed and the bottom opened so as to allow the ducks to go in or out and still cut down the amount of ventilation. when the weather is warm the doors may be left entirely open except for a board 18 inches to 2 feet wide inserted in the bottom of the door when it is desired to keep the ducks in. shade is essential for the breeders and if not provided naturally by trees must be supplied by means of artificial shelters. [illustration: fig. 17. upper--rear and end view of house or shed used for fattening ducks. lower--general view on a duck plant, showing open front fattening houses in the foreground and houses for breeders in the background. (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 18. a good house for breeding ducks. it is 20 feet deep, 40 feet long, 7 feet high in front and 4 feet in the rear and will accommodate 200 breeders. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _bedding and cleaning the breeding houses._ usually straw, meadow hay, or swale hay is used for bedding. shavings make good material for this purpose if they do not contain too much sawdust. the principal objection to shavings is that it takes longer to bed with them. often a few joists are laid at the back of the house on which to pile bales of straw or other bedding so that it will be kept dry and will serve as an emergency supply available for bedding the house in stormy days. the houses should be bedded fairly often in order to keep the floors clean and dry and so as not to allow the ducks' feet to get cold. the frequency with which bedding is necessary will depend upon the weather. in winter it may at times be necessary to bed every day. in may it may be necessary only twice a week and still later in the season only once a week. in wet weather the ducks track in lots of mud and water and frequent bedding helps to keep the eggs clean. the houses are cleaned out only once a year and this is usually done after the ducks have stopped laying. to clean out the houses while the ducks are laying would disturb them and tend to stop their egg production. _cleaning the breeding yards._ the yards should be cleaned whenever they need it, that is, whenever they begin to get sloppy or sticky. it is a matter of judgment to decide when this is necessary. the character of the soil influences this, as sandy yards absorb the droppings better and do not need cleaning as frequently as heavier soils. in the yards for the breeding ducks, or the water yards, this will as a rule not be over 2 or 3 times a season. in dry weather cleaning is accomplished by sweeping the yards with a broom. in wet weather the droppings spread over the yard and are packed down by the ducks' feet until they form a layer of putty-like material which cannot be swept off but is scraped off by means of a hoe. _water yards for breeders._ formerly it was the consensus of opinion that breeders needed water in which they could swim in order to keep in good breeding condition and to give the best results in fertility of the eggs. at present it is not considered necessary to have sufficient water to permit swimming although many breeders prefer to do this and feel that they get better results from it. however, breeding ducks have been and are being kept successfully in dry yards where water is supplied to them simply in an amount sufficient to allow them to drink and to clean themselves. where water yards are provided this should not be on stagnant water but there should be some circulation of the water so as to keep it clean and fresh. where the lay of the land is such that it is not possible to run all the yards down to a stream for this purpose it is sometimes possible to dig a canal or ditch from the stream to the yards so as to allow the ducks access to the water. where the yards can extend into the water it saves a great deal of labor or considerable expense in equipment as it is not then necessary to provide the ducks with drinking water by means of some artificial arrangement such as a concrete gutter or ditch extending through the yards or by means of artificial ponds. if the water yards used freeze over in winter it is necessary to cut holes in the ice so that the ducks can get water for drinking purposes. sometimes the ducks will go into these water holes and after getting their plumage wet will come out and sit down in the yard and freeze fast to the ground. during such weather conditions it is necessary to make the rounds of the yards frequently and to loosen any ducks that have frozen fast. if they are left in that condition they are apt to injure themselves in trying to pull free and if left too long will die. [illustration: fig. 19. another successful type of house for breeding ducks. it is 20 ft. by 40 ft. and is divided into two pens each of which will accommodate 100 breeders. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 20. meal time for the breeders. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _feeding the breeders._ breeding ducks are fed twice a day, in the morning and at night. it is usual practice to feed the breeders last in the morning and first at night. the reason for feeding them last in the morning is that they are usually fed in the yards rather than the house and they should be kept in until they are through laying which will be after daylight. a good breeding ration consists of the following, the proportions being given by measure in bushels. 1 bushel bran. 1 bushel low-grade flour. 1 bushel corn meal. 1 bushel green feed. ½ bushel either raw or cooked vegetables. 1 bushel in 10 of beef scrap. ½ bushel in 10 of cooked fish. this ration will keep the breeding ducks in good flesh but there will be no difficulty in their getting too fat. it is also a good laying ration and will promote good egg production. the vegetables used in this ration usually consist of sugar beets, cow beets, potatoes, etc. however, if potatoes are used the amount of flour in the ration should be reduced a little so as not to make the ration too heavy. beets, when used, are fed raw cut up and mixed in the feed. small potatoes, boiled and mixed in the feed are more valuable as they have a greater food value than beets. some duck growers feed fish entirely, using no beef scrap. this is done where a plentiful supply of fish can be secured by going out into the bay after them. however, this is not very good practice for a sufficient supply of fish may not always be available and the ducks are so fond of the fish that they will not eat well the beef scrap used as a substitute for the fish, until they have become used to it. fish is prepared for feeding by boiling it thoroughly in a feed cooker. the available land on the plant is used to grow a supply of green feed. rye is used for this purpose early in the spring as soon as it is high enough to mow. it is mowed the first time when it is like a lawn. at this stage it does not have to be cut up. oats are used in the same way. during the summer fodder corn is used. this is the poorest crop for the purpose but is as a rule the only one available at that time. rape is sowed in august and its use begun about the time of the first frost and kept up until the hard freezes come or until it is buried under the snow. creek grass which is secured from the fresh water streams on long island by going out in a flat bottom boat and raking it off the creek bottom with a wooden rake, is very much relished by the ducks and is used whenever it is available. however, the supply of this material is not as plentiful as it was formerly and it is rather hard to get. when it is available it can be used either in winter or summer. good field clover cut up and boiled with the potatoes or with the fish makes a good green feed. all of these green materials for use in the ration, unless they are already in short lengths, are cut up by means of a power feed cutter before they are mixed in the mash. when no other form of green feed is available ground alfalfa is used but only half as much of this material is mixed with the ration as is used of any of the other kinds of green feed. wherever possible the various duck yards should be used to grow a crop of green stuff such as oats or rye as this not only helps out on the supply of green feed but also helps to sweeten the soil. the growing of a crop on the heavier types of soil used for ducks is especially important as such soils are more likely to become contaminated from the droppings. the ration for the ducks is mixed up in a power feed mixer which works much on the principle of a power dough mixer. in fact, dough mixers are used on some plants. in mixing the feed enough water should be added to bring the material to a consistency where it will hold together when squeezed in the hand. in fact, the consistency should be between crumbly and sticky, but should never be sloppy. the feed is dumped from the mixer into a low horse drawn wagon and driven around to the various yards where it is shoveled off on to the feed troughs or trays. on some large duck plants a track is provided which runs over the yards and over this a car loaded with feed is pushed and the feed shoveled into the feed trays. the breeders should be fed in the same place. if feeding is begun in the house this practice should be continued. if feeding is begun in the yards it should be continued there. to change disturbs the ducks and interferes with their egg production. coarse ground oyster shell about as large as corn should be kept before the breeders all the time in boxes where they can help themselves. a flock of 700 or 800 breeders will eat upwards of 200 pounds a week of this material. unless sand is available in the yards where they can get it, ducks should also have access to a supply of good sharp creek sand but when kept in sand yards no other form of grit need be furnished. the usual method of feeding is to utilize flat troughs on which the feed is shoveled. only as much feed should be given at the regular feeding time as the ducks will eat up clean. this makes it necessary to watch the feeding carefully and to regulate the amount accordingly. it is good practice to gather up any feed that is left by the ducks so that it will not lie there to sour and spoil as such feed is bad for the birds. egg production the average egg production of pekin ducks kept under commercial farm conditions will run from 80 to 125 eggs per head for the season. this will vary somewhat from year to year and also with the management and feed given the ducks. the laying begins to a small extent about december 1 and gradually increases until the ducks are laying freely in february. as the hot weather of summer begins to come on the laying drops off until about july 1 and after this not enough eggs are produced as a rule to pay to hold the breeding ducks longer. often many ducks will stop laying considerably before this, especially those which have started laying early and it may not pay to keep such pens later than may. laying takes place early in the morning and practically all the eggs are laid soon after daylight. it is for this reason that the ducks are usually shut up at night so that all the eggs laid will be secured as some of them would otherwise be lost by their being laid around in the yard or in the water. in the spring the ducks can be let out about 6 a. m., as the laying will be pretty well over by that time, but in winter they must be kept shut up later in order to secure all the eggs. after the ducks start laying in the spring they are very regular and continuous layers and will miss fewer days than most hens. after the breeding ducks are first put in the breeding pens and shut in the houses at night it is common practice to use electric lights for the first 2 or 3 weeks in order to keep them from stampeding as ducks in strange surroundings are quite nervous and are quite likely to stampede and to run over one another thus causing cripples. electric lights have also been used to some extent during the late fall and winter for the purpose of inducing egg production earlier than the natural season. as a rule the ducks can be started to laying about 4 weeks after turning on the lights but the average production under this system is not likely to run more than 60 eggs for the season as so handled they moult quite early in the spring. a single 25 watt light is sufficient for a house or pen 16 × 24 feet and the lights are left turned on all night. the object in feeding and caring for the breeding ducks is to keep them from moulting and to keep them laying as long as possible. it must be remembered that any radical change in feed or manner of feeding, shutting them up too closely, change of temperature, or other disturbing conditions are likely to cause moulting and to check egg production. any change in feed must be made carefully and gradually, not suddenly. it must also be remembered that ducks are excitable birds and must be handled and driven carefully so as to disturb them as little as possible. time of marketing breeders the breeders should be turned off to market whenever their egg production drops off so decidedly that it no longer pays to hold them. in most cases this will be about the 1st of july but it may range considerably earlier than this, especially with pens of ducks that have started laying early. when the ducks finish laying their eggs they begin to moult and it is at this time that they should be marketed. if marketing is delayed, the ducks will lose condition as the moulting progresses and will therefore be held at a loss. diseases and pests _disease._ old ducks, that is, mature ducks, are practically free from disease. of course, there will be a certain amount of loss in the breeding stock from various causes but this should not run for the entire season more than 10% of the flock. ducks do not become egg bound, but sometimes, especially during heavy laying, they become ruptured. _insect pests._ ducks are remarkably free from lice and other insect pests and those which they do have do not trouble them much. it is unnecessary therefore to take any precautions in the way of treating the ducks to keep them free of insects. _dogs._ occasionally trouble may be experienced from dogs. if these animals get into the yards with the breeders or the fattening ducks, they may kill a good many and in addition will seriously injure the rest by chasing them and by the fright which the ducks are given. chapter v commercial duck farming--incubation the pekin duck is essentially a non-broody breed. it, therefore, becomes necessary to resort to incubators for the purpose of hatching the eggs. occasional ducks will sit if allowed to do so but it is not the practice on commercial duck farms to allow them to sit and hatch their young. no special means are taken to break them of broodiness other than not to allow them eggs to sit on. _kinds of incubators used._ both the smaller kerosene lamp heated incubators and the large or mammoth hot water heated incubators are used for hatching duck eggs. at the present time the mammoth hot water machines are those which are in principal use due largely to the lessened labor required to operate them. _incubator cellar._ it is necessary to provide some room in which the incubators can be installed and operated. this may take the form of a cellar, or the incubators may be operated in rooms above the ground. many of the incubator cellars on duck farms are only partially under ground and not a few of them are built entirely out of ground. the particular size and shape of the cellar or incubator room will, of course, depend upon the number of incubators to be installed and upon their make and shape. usually these buildings are constructed with rather thick walls so that the temperature of the room will fluctuate less with changes in outside temperature. provision is also necessary by means of windows or other ventilating devices to provide for good ventilation in the room. the cellars are usually constructed with cement floors as moisture is used freely and wooden floors would rot out quickly. _incubator capacity required._ the aim on commercial duck farms is to hatch all of the eggs produced which are suitable for the purpose. practically no eggs are sold except the cracked eggs or those which would not give good results in the incubator such as too large or too small eggs. occasionally, of course, there will be sales of duck eggs in comparatively large lots for incubation purposes where someone is starting a duck farm. occasionally also duck farmers buy from each other a few eggs for incubation in order to secure new blood. on the whole, however, practically all of the eggs laid are incubated and it is necessary to have an incubator capacity sufficient to take care of the eggs as they are produced during the flush season. since the egg production at this time will run around about 80% and since the period of incubation is 28 days and a couple more days must be allowed to take the ducklings out of the machines and to clean up the machines, it is necessary to figure on 30 days between hatches. to take care of the flush production at this time there would be required an incubator capacity of from 20 to 25 eggs per head of breeding ducks. the latter figure is a safer estimate than the former. of course, eggs sufficient to fill the entire incubator capacity are not put in the machines at any one time but different lots are put in as soon as a sufficient number is obtained to make it worth while. there will be, therefore, eggs in various stages of incubation in different sections of the machines at the same time. while pekin duck eggs will run about ½ heavier in weight than hens' eggs they do not take up a proportionately greater amount of space in the incubator. an incubator tray will accommodate about 5/6 as many pekin duck eggs as it will hens' eggs. _age of hatching eggs._ duck eggs should be set as often as enough are secured to fill one or more trays in the incubator or enough to produce a sufficient number of ducklings to utilize brooding space to advantage. since duck eggs deteriorate more rapidly than hens' eggs they cannot be kept so long before they are set. it is best not to save them for longer than one week. during the season of flush production it is not, of course, necessary to save them that long since enough eggs will be secured to set each day if desired. the usual practice at this time is to set twice a week. during the early part of the season when the production of eggs is low and the temperature cool the eggs are often saved for as long a period as two weeks without noticeably bad results. _care of hatching eggs._ eggs for hatching should be kept in a cool place. any place suitable for keeping hens' eggs for hatching is a suitable place for duck eggs. the temperature should be from 50° to 70° fahrenheit. where the eggs are not kept longer than one week, it is not necessary to turn them, especially if they are kept on end. if kept longer than this it is safer to turn them once a day or once in two days, handling them carefully so as not to crack any or to injure their hatching qualities. _selecting the eggs for hatching._ medium sized eggs are preferred for this purpose. therefore, the extremely large eggs and the very small ones are thrown out. rough shelled eggs or eggs with crooked or deformed shells are likewise thrown out since they are not likely to hatch well. eggs that are badly soiled so that they cannot be tested easily are washed but the clean eggs are not. all the eggs intended for incubation purposes are sounded by striking them gently against one another in order to detect and remove the cracked eggs. no selection is made on the basis of color. the eggs may be white, creamy white or a blue, or bluish green in color. at the present time a considerably less proportion of the eggs show a blue tint than formerly. as the egg laying season advances the eggs laid by the ducks tend to get a little larger. _temperature._ up to the time of testing, that is, about the fifth day, the incubator is run at a temperature of from 101 to 102 degrees. after the fifth day the temperature is kept as near 103 as possible. the most sensitive period for a duck egg is during the first 3 or 4 days of incubation. if they are allowed to get too warm during this time the germ may be killed while if the temperature is too low, development will be retarded. _position of the thermometer._ in figuring on the proper temperature at which to run the incubator, the thermometer should be so placed that the bulb is on a level with the top of the eggs, preferably touching a fertile egg. if the thermometer bulb rests on an infertile egg the temperature recorded will be lower than the actual temperature of fertile eggs in the later stages of incubation, due to the animal heat of the developing embryos, with the result that the machine would be operated at too high a temperature. _testing._ it is common practice to make only one complete test. this is done on the evening of the fifth day. testing may be done by means of an ordinary candling device such as is used with hens' eggs, each egg being examined separately. to save time a piece of apparatus may be used which is simple in construction and which simplifies the process of candling considerably. this may be termed a testing table. it consists of a table the same width as an incubator tray and longer than the tray. in the table there is an opening the size of a row of eggs and beneath this are placed several electric light bulbs with reflectors back of them so as to throw the light up through the eggs. by sliding the tray along the table each row of eggs is brought over the lights and their condition can be quickly noted. at this test all the infertile eggs are taken out as well as any eggs in which the germs have died. the infertile eggs after a careful retest are then packed in cases and sent to market where they are usually sold to bakers as tested eggs. while no second test is made of the eggs left in the machines the experienced incubator operator is constantly on the watch for and is constantly removing any eggs which die at a later time. to the experienced eye the color of the egg indicates that it has died as it takes on a sort of pinkish or darkish tint. duck eggs after they die will spoil very quickly and must be removed promptly as the odor which they throw off is very strong and will prove harmful to the other eggs. the inexperienced operator can readily locate dead eggs by smelling over the tray. [illustration: fig. 21. interior of house for breeding ducks. notice the heavy bedding and the feeding track. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 22. incubator cellar on large duck plant. trays of eggs set out to turn and cool. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _turning the eggs._ the eggs are neither turned, cooled nor otherwise disturbed after they are put in the incubator until after they are tested on the fifth day. from this time on they are turned twice a day, morning and night, until they begin to pip. _cooling the eggs._ there is a considerable difference in the practice of incubator operators with regard to cooling. no cooling should be done until after the first test. after this some incubator men cool the eggs by dropping the doors of the machine. others take the trays of eggs out and put them on top of the machine. cooling is usually done once a day. the amount of cooling which the eggs require seems to vary greatly and here again the judgment of the operator comes into play. about the best general rule which can be given is that the eggs should be cooled until they do not feel warm to the face but they should never be cooled to the extent that they feel cold to the face or hands. the length of time to bring this about varies with the age of the eggs and the temperature of the room. _moisture._ a good deal of moisture is used in incubating duck eggs. it is usual to begin to spray the eggs with water the next day after testing. however, this may vary anywhere from the sixth to the tenth day. they are sprayed quite thoroughly, some men using water enough so that it runs out of the bottom of the machine. no particular care is taken to see that the water used is warm. ordinary water just as it comes from the pipes is commonly used and is applied by means of a spray nozzle attached to a hose. however, extremely cold water should not be used for this purpose. this spraying is done once or twice a day as the operator may think necessary until the eggs begin to hatch. in many cases even then if the ducklings seem to be drying too fast after they come out of the shell, or to be having difficulty to get out it is well to open the machines and wet the eggs down thoroughly. _fertility._ the fertility varies with the season that is, with the weather. at the beginning of the laying season when the weather is cold the fertility usually runs rather low. this is likewise true at the end of the laying season when the heat of summer sets in. during the interval between these two times of low fertility there will usually be one or more periods during which the fertility will go down and then come back again. this seems to occur even though the weather remains about the same and though there is no change in the method of feeding. fertility may be considered to be good when it runs about 85%. when the fertility is running poor the hatching of the eggs left in the machines after testing will usually be poor also. _hatching._ it takes longer as a rule from the time that the ducklings pip the eggs until they hatch than it does with chicks. to retain the moisture which is so necessary during hatching, the machines are usually shut tightly and are not opened until the hatching is pretty well completed unless it becomes necessary to add more moisture as indicated above. the little ducklings should be left in the incubator until the hatching is over and they are thoroughly dried off. as soon as the hatching is completed, the ventilators in the machines are opened to hasten the drying process. if the ducklings open their bills and pant it is an indication that they are not getting enough ventilation and this should be supplied by fastening the machine door open a little way. if the ducks are not ready to be taken out of the machines by noon or soon after, it is best to leave them until the next morning before removing them to the brooder house. in the meantime, however, the old eggs and shells and other refuse should be taken out. usually the hatch is completed in time so that the ducklings can be removed to the brooder house on the afternoon of the 28th day. as a rule the earlier the hatch is completed the better are the ducklings. figures secured on results in hatching for the entire season on long island duck farms indicate that as a whole the duck raisers will not average much over 40% hatch of all eggs set. some hatches may run as high as 60% or even more and in some seasons the average percentage will run higher than 40. some especially skilled operators may also secure considerably better average results than this. it is quite a common practice on the part of duck farmers to pay their incubator man a bonus on all ducklings over 40% hatched during the season. this bonus may range anywhere from $1 to $5 per thousand ducklings. such an arrangement serves to give the incubator man a greater incentive to give the machines good attention and to secure just the best results of which he is capable. _selling baby ducks._ within the last two or three years there has sprung into existence a small but increasing trade in baby ducks. they are handled and shipped about the same as baby chicks. baby ducks are ready for shipment as soon as they are thoroughly dry, usually about 12 hours after the hatch starts to come off. they are neither fed nor watered before shipment and are packed in cardboard boxes used in shipping baby chicks. as a rule the shipping boxes will accommodate about half the number of ducklings that they will chicks. of course the outside temperature very largely governs the matter of the number to a compartment. in warm summer weather, a two compartment box intended for 50 chicks will accommodate 26 ducklings if well ventilated at the sides and top. they are shipped by parcel post and can be sent anywhere within a radius of one thousand miles if the trip does not require more than 36 hours. for best results the ducklings should not be allowed to go much beyond this length of time before they are fed. on receipt they should be placed immediately in a brooder already prepared for them. chapter vi commercial duck farming--brooding and rearing the young stock young ducks are easier to brood than chicks. they seem to learn more quickly where the source of heat is and they are less likely to cause trouble from crowding. they are also less subject to disease. _removing the newly hatched ducklings to the brooder house._ the ducklings should be left in the incubator until they are thoroughly dried off. usually they will be dried so that they can be moved on the afternoon of the 28th day of incubation. if, however, they are not ready early in the afternoon it is best to leave them in the machine until the next morning. in moving the ducklings, place them in boxes, baskets or other suitable carriers and cover them with burlap or cloth to avoid any danger of the ducklings becoming chilled. _brooder houses repaired._ there are many different types and styles of brooder houses which are used with success. for this reason only one type of each class of brooder house needed is described in detail. these particular houses have been in successful use for a considerable period of time and are given because they embody all the necessary requisites for such houses and at the same time utilize the space to good advantage and are economical in construction. in general there are required three different brooder houses. the first of these requires sufficient heating capacity so that the temperature of the house itself can be maintained at 65 to 70 degrees even in the cold weather of winter or early spring. in addition, hovers are required in this house under which a temperature can be maintained from 80 to 90 degrees. for convenience this house will be spoken of as brooder house no. 1. a second brooder house which can be called brooder house no. 2 will be required which is equipped with heating apparatus so that the temperature can be run up to 60 degrees when required. the third brooder house known as brooder house no. 3 is a cold brooder house or one without artificial heat. it furnishes shelter for the young ducks where they can be driven in at night and during the day in cold weather. as the ducklings pass out of the brooder house no. 3 they are housed in sheds or shelters with yards which usually extend into the water but which may not do so in all cases. brooder house no. 1 the length of this house determines its capacity, the required amount of which will depend upon the output of any particular plant. there should be brooder capacity in this house sufficient to care for approximately ¼ of the total output for the year at one time. _construction of house._ a suitable house which has been in practical use for some time consists of one 20 feet wide and running east and west with windows in the south or front side. if the location were right such a house could be run north and south to good advantage and should then have windows on each side so as to let in the sunlight from both directions. the front wall of this house is 7 feet high, the back wall 4 feet. the ridge of the house is about 2 feet in front of the center, the front slope of the roof having an eight inch pitch while the back slope has a 6 inch pitch. the roof rafters are 2 × 4's placed every two feet. the studs and plates are likewise 2 × 4. the walls are made of matched material. the roof is constructed of 1 × 2 inch strips placed every 4 inches and these covered with shingles. tie beams every 8 feet extend from front to rear plates. this particular brooder house is not ceiled but a good tight ceiling 8 feet above the walk or runway would make it easier to keep the house clean and would also render it somewhat easier in cold weather to maintain the temperature desired. the house is built on a concrete wall or foundation and a dirt floor is used but the dirt must be filled in well above the level of the ground outside so that there is no danger of water coming into the house or the floors becoming damp or sloppy. windows are placed in the front wall, one to each pen. in every other pen there is a small door in the back of the house to facilitate cleaning out the pens. a window can be substituted for this door to good advantage as it makes the house lighter. [illustration: fig. 23. interior of no. 1 brooder house showing walk and hover combined in the middle of the house and pens on each side. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _heating apparatus._ heat is furnished by means of a coal burning stove which heats water and causes it to circulate through pipes run the length of the house. the heater must always be placed in the windward end of the building as otherwise it is hard to get the heat down to the other end as the wind tends to drive it back. the hot water pipes are carried down the center of the house and the return pipes are located in the same place. a low partition is run lengthwise of the house dividing the pipes and thus forming double pens, half extending from the center to the front and half from the center to the rear of the house. the pipes and the partition between them is covered over with boards making a 4 foot walk or runway directly over the pipes, which comes into most convenient use as a place to convey, by means of a wheelbarrow, feed or other material needed in the house, and as a convenient place from which to care for the ducklings in the pens on each side. this board covering over the pipes also serves to hold the heat and thus forms hovers. it is advisable to partition off the first third of the house, that is, the portion in which the heater is located, with a solid partition. then by having suitable valves in the pipes, the heat can be cut off from the rest of the house and only the smaller partitioned off end used as a separate and independent section of the brooder. this is especially useful when only a small number of ducklings are being hatched early in the spring when the weather is cold and it may be difficult to heat the whole building properly. it is also economical in fuel under such conditions. if, on the other hand, the number of ducklings hatched during the cold weather is so large that all or nearly all of the house capacity is needed to care for them, it will usually pay to install an additional heater, the pipes from which can be run along the rear wall of the building, in order to keep up a proper house temperature when the weather is severe. _pens._ having the hovers in the center of the house, makes it possible to have double sets of pens, one running from the center to the front wall and the other from the center to the rear wall. the pens are divided off by means of partitions made of one foot boards. these are high enough to confine the ducklings to their own pen and at the same time are easy to step over. in a house of this width, 20 feet, with 4 feet in the center taken up by the double hovers or walk, each pen is 8 feet long in the clear or 10 feet to the partition under the hover. the pens in the first third of the house are made 5 feet wide, in the next third 6 feet and in the last third 7 feet wide. when the ducklings are first brought from the incubator cellar they are placed in the pens nearest the heater as the temperature will run somewhat higher there than in the portions of the house more remote from the heater. these 5 × 10 foot pens will accommodate 125 baby ducklings although better results will be obtained by placing only 100 in a pen if sufficient room is available. some duck growers use boards which can be slipped into slots made of cleats nailed to the pen partitions at different distances from the hover and which serve to confine the baby ducklings close to the hover for the first few days or until they learn to go under the hover to get warm. as additional ducklings are hatched later and brought to the brooder house, the ducklings already there are moved along the necessary number of pens in order to accommodate the new-comers in the pens nearest the heater. for this purpose, a small door is made in each partition next the outside wall of the house through which the ducklings can be driven. a broom is a handy implement to use in driving the ducklings as they can be pushed along in front of it. it is best to drive the ducklings just after they have been fed as they are not so nervous and afraid at that time. the increased width of the pens in the second and third portions of the house is for the purpose of taking care of the growth of the ducklings as they are moved along the house. pens of the same width as those in which they were started become too crowded as the ducklings increase in size. _equipment of the pen._ the equipment of the pens is quite simple. water is piped through the house along both walls so that it is available to each pen. a spigot is provided in each pen and under this is placed the drinking dish, which consists of a round metal pan about a foot in diameter and 3 or 4 inches deep. a square pan should never be used as the ducklings are apt to get their bills caught in the corners. one quarter inch mesh wire netting is bent in a circle and placed in the drinking dish as a guard to keep the ducklings from getting into the pan. this guard should be made of such size that there is a space between the wire and the edge of the dish of about 1½ inches all around. this guard should be about 8 inches high. the water pan itself is set upon a wire covered frame about 18 inches square under which is dug a pit 4 or 5 inches deep to drain away any water which the ducklings slop out of the pan. such an arrangement keeps the pens from becoming sloppy and damp. each pen must also have a flat metal dish on which to place the feed for the little ducks. metal pans are better than wooden feeding trays as they are easier to keep clean. in each pen is provided a small hopper filled with fine sharp creek sand to which the ducklings have access at all times. some duck growers prefer to mix the sand in the feed rather than to provide it in hoppers. after the ducklings are allowed to run in the yards, sand need not be furnished if the yards are sand as the ducklings will help themselves. if the land in the yards is not sand, however, it is necessary to continue to furnish this material. [illustration: fig. 24. watering arrangement in the brooder pens for young ducklings. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 25. another type of no. 1 brooder house. here the hovers are along the back of the house and the work is done from an alleyway along the front. the box with handles on top of the hover is used in carrying the newly hatched ducklings from the incubator cellar to the brooder house. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _grading and sorting the ducklings._ as the ducklings are moved from pen to pen through this house as well as the other houses, they are constantly graded for size and thriftiness, the smaller, less thrifty individuals being left with younger lots. some ducklings do not grow as quickly as others, and these if left with ducklings larger than themselves will not get their share of the feed and will not do as well. in this connection it should be noted that when young ducks are not fairly clean it is a good indication that they are not doing as well as they should. _cleaning and bedding the pens._ careful attention must be given to keeping the pens and the ducklings themselves clean if they are to do well. therefore the pens must be cleaned out as often as may be necessary to accomplish this purpose. the judgment of the brooder man must decide how often this is necessary but it will be at least once a week. when cleaning the pens the old bedding is thrown out from the front pens through the windows and from the back pens through the door provided in the rear wall for this purpose. bedding the pens must be done more frequently, usually about every other day. fresh bedding will help to absorb the droppings and will keep the pens from becoming sloppy or sticky. for bedding, straw, meadow hay, swale hay or any other suitable material available should be utilized. _ventilation._ plenty of ventilation is required in the brooder house in order to take out the ammonia odor which arises from the droppings. properly managed, the doors and windows provide sufficient means of ventilation but some duck growers prefer to have roof ventilators in addition. _other types of brooder houses._ many other types of brooder houses are used, some of them being shed roof construction and many of them being built narrower than this house, that is to say, 14, 16 or 18 feet wide with an alleyway along the front or rear side of the house from which the work is done. the hovers are placed at the back of the pens when the alley-way is in the front, otherwise, they are placed next to the alley-way. the disadvantages of these houses are that only single pens are provided and that valuable brooding space is used up by the alley-way. the advantages of the house described above lie in the fact that the hovers are in the center of the house with the pens on each side of this, thus doubling the capacity, and that by making use of a walk over the hover pipe no room is wasted in an alley-way. having pens on each side also lessens the labor of taking care of the ducklings to some extent as the arrangement is more compact. length of time in brooder _in house no. 1._ as a rule the ducklings are kept in the no. 1 house until they are from 2 to 3 weeks old, this of course depending somewhat upon the time of year and the weather and also upon the number of ducklings for which accommodations must be provided at any particular time. as the ducks are moved down through the house and eventually reach the last pens they are taken from this house and placed in brooder house no. 2. _brooder house no. 2._ this is a heated house like brooder house no. 1 but in which it is not necessary to maintain so high a temperature. sufficient heating apparatus should be installed to make it possible to maintain the temperature at 60 degrees if this becomes necessary in the early spring. the particular brooder house described is 14 feet wide and has a shed roof. it is provided with a window in the front of each pen. no openings are required along the back since this is not a double pen house. the space in such a house could undoubtedly be used to better advantage if it were constructed as wide as the no. 1 house and the hot water pipes and walk put through the middle of the house so as to provide double pens. in this house the hot water pipes are run along the rear of the pens, and while hovers are not really necessary, a walk is constructed over the pipes in order to save space and provide a convenient place from which to do the work, and this forms hovers. ordinarily after may 1 no heat is needed in the no. 2 house. the pens in this house are 12 feet wide and they are equipped with feeding and watering arrangements as in brooder house no. 1. as the ducklings are moved to this house from the no. 1 house from 150 to 200 are placed in each pen. they are moved through the house from pen to pen in the same manner as in the no. 1 house to make way for new arrivals. as a rule they stay in this house about two weeks depending somewhat on the weather and upon the number of ducklings being brooded. yards are used in connection with this house which are the same width as the pens and 50 feet in length. as in the no. 1 house the pens in this house should be cleaned at least once a week and they should be bedded with straw or other bedding material every other day. as soon as the ducks have been moved through this no. 2 house they are put in brooder house no. 3. [illustration: fig. 26. brooder house no. 2 and yards. the trees furnish fine shade for the growing ducklings. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] brooder house no. 3 this is a shed roof house 16 feet wide equipped with single pens. no heat is required in this house. yards of the same width as the pens and 50 feet deep are used. usually the ducks are fed outside the house from a wagon driven along a roadway just in front of the yards. the pens are 16 feet wide and the same number of ducks is used in them as in the no. 2 house. as a rule the ducks stay in this house about 2 weeks and are then moved to the duck pens or shelters with the larger yards which may or may not have water. from this point on the ducks are termed yard ducks. in all three of the brooder houses the young ducks are supplied with their drinking water from pipes through the houses. they are not given access to water until they are moved to the yards. [illustration: fig. 27. brooder house no. 3. at the time this picture was taken there were no ducklings in the house and advantage was taken of this fact to give it a good cleaning by throwing out the bedding and droppings, which will be hauled away and spread on cropped land. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 28. long brooder house and yards with feeding track. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 29. upper--pekin ducklings 3 days old. lower--pekin ducklings 2 weeks old. duck egg used for size comparison. (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 30. upper--pekin ducklings 3 weeks old. lower--pekin ducklings 6 weeks old. (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 31. interior of a cold brooder house. the low partitions can easily be stepped over. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] yard accommodations for ducklings as the ducklings get to be 8 weeks old they can stand ordinary weather conditions and it is not absolutely necessary to have houses for them. however, it is common and good practice to provide shelter where they can be housed at night and can take refuge from storms. a suitable house for this purpose consists of a building 16 × 24 feet divided into two parts with 200 ducklings to a side. this house is 5 feet high in front and 3½ feet in back. it is set on posts with a baseboard around it to make it tight. it can be constructed of matched stuff or unmatched stuff covered with paper. the front is left open but curtains are placed on the front which can be used to close the openings so as to keep out the snow. these are used only in the winter. when the ducklings are first started in these sheds they are shut in when desired by means of wire panels fitted into the lower part of the open front. the ducklings are left in these yards and fed there until they are ready for market. [illustration: fig. 32. eat, drink and grow fat for tomorrow they die. fattening or yard ducks with fattening house or shelter used. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _shade._ shade is important for the ducklings as soon as the sun gets hot. exposure to the sun without shade will cause quite a heavy loss in ducklings. if natural shade is not furnished by trees, some artificial means must be adopted to supply the shade. this may take the form of shelters or low frames covered with boards, brush or burlap. _feeding._ the first feed and water is given as soon as the ducks are placed in the no. 1 brooder house or when 24 to 36 hours old. they are fed 3 times a day, in the morning about 6 a. m., at noon, and at night about 4:30 or 5 o'clock. the time of feeding should be regular, and fairly early in the morning but not any earlier in the afternoon than one can help so that the time between the evening and the morning feed will not be too long. some growers prefer to feed 4 or 5 times daily for the first week or two. the birds are fed as much as they will clean up at each feeding and if any feed is left it should be gathered up so that it will not sour and cause digestive troubles. the first feed consists of the following:--one measure corn meal, one measure bran, one measure ground crackers, stale bread or shredded wheat waste, one measure in 10 of beef scrap or fish, one measure in 6 of creek grass or other very fine green stuff. green rye or oats should never be used for this purpose after it becomes jointed. if the feed is mixed up with cold water about ½ measure of low-grade wheat flour should be used to cause it to stick together. if hot water is used in the mixing this is not needed. sand must be fed either by mixing it in to the extent of about 3% of the ration or the sand can be fed separately in hoppers as previously described. this same mixture may be fed in the no. 1, no. 2, and no. 3 brooder houses, or in other words, until ducklings go to the yards, or ration no. 2 given below may be substituted either at the start or after a week or ten days. after the ducklings go to the yards the following fattening ration is used: 200 pounds corn meal, 100 pounds low-grade flour, 100 pounds bran, 1 part in 10 of beef scrap and 2 tubs or bushels of green stuff. some duck growers prefer to feed 300 pounds of corn meal instead of 200 pounds. this ration like the other is fed 3 times a day. of course, there are many different rations in use with good results, every grower having more or less personal preferences in this matter. a proper proportion of animal feed, consisting of beef scrap or fish is very important as the ducklings will not grow and make normal gains if this is omitted or reduced in amount. much has been written about the feeding of celery seed to fattening ducklings for the purpose of improving the flavor of the flesh and formerly ducklings were advertised and sold as "celery-fed". as a matter of fact, the amount of celery seed fed was small and it is questionable how much influence it had on the flavor of the birds. at the present time, celery seed is not used in fattening the ducklings on most of the large duck farms of long island. a comparison of gains made by ducklings on two different rations is shown in the following table. ration no. 1 consists of the fattening ration given above. ration no. 2 consists of 100 pounds bran, 100 pounds corn meal, 50 pounds rolled oats, 50 pounds gluten feed, 10% beef scrap. the ducks used were three days old at the first weighing and there were 27 in each lot. after the second weighing the number in each lot was reduced to 24 ducks. feed no. 1 feed no. 2 total weight average weight total weight average wt august 14 4¾ lbs. 0.176 4¾ lbs. 0.176 august 21 10 " 0.37 9½ " 0.352 august 28 16½ " 0.687 17½ " 0.729 september 5 25 " 1.041 27 " 1.125 september 13 44½ " 1.854 48½ " 2.02 september 19 50 " 2.083 56½ " 2.354 september 27 64 " 2.666 67 " 2.62 october 4 78½ " 3.27 82½ " 3.437 october 11 99½ " 4.145 103½ " 4.312 october 18 115½ " 4.812 119 " 4.958 october 25 126 " 5.25 135 " 5.62 _lights for ducklings._ often when the ducks are about one-third grown or about 4 weeks old they will stampede at night at any unusual noise or any other disturbance. in doing this, especially when they are in fairly large lots, they surge back and forth in the pens, running over one another with the result that their backs are torn and scratched while not infrequently more serious injuries result and may cause cripples. to keep them quiet it is common to use lights at night. formerly lanterns were used but now on most duck plants electric lights are available for this purpose. for a house 140 feet long, six 15-watt lights scattered at equal intervals will be sufficient, and these can be used in like proportion for houses of other lengths. the lights are left on all night. even when the ducks are half grown and may be out on the yards it is still necessary to use lights on stormy nights so that they will stay in and keep quiet and not get drowned in the rain. with a 16 × 24 foot house such as described previously, a single 25 watt light is sufficient. ducklings are especially likely to be stampeded during thunderstorms and if a storm is coming up it is well to turn on the lights and to shut the ducklings in their shelters when they are first placed in the yards. one should not carry a lantern when moving among the ducklings at night as this will cause moving shadows which are very likely to frighten and stampede the birds. [illustration: fig. 33. another type of duck shed used on long island. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 34. convenient feeding arrangements. at the right of the feeding track runs a water pipe with spigots and pans at frequent intervals. at the left are the feeding trays. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _pounds of feed to produce a pound of market duck._ it is stated by long established duck growers that from 5 to 7 pounds of feed is required, this including the feed given to the breeding ducks for the season, to produce a pound of market duck. _water for young ducks._ drinking water is provided to the ducklings while in the brooder houses by means of a piped supply. the drinking pans are filled at each feeding time but at no other time. water is not left before them continuously while they are in the brooder houses as they would be working in it all the time and this would keep them dirty and make the house sloppy. after they are put out on the yards they may or may not be provided with water in which they can swim. most duck growers on long island allow them to have access to water. while it is undoubtedly true that swimming in the water induces them to take more exercise and thus tends to reduce somewhat the rapidity of fattening, at the same time it lessens the labor very materially as they do not need to be provided with a supply of drinking water other than the water in which they swim. ducklings can be grown very successfully with only a limited amount of water, that is, only enough to drink and in which to wash themselves. _age and weight when ready for market._ ducklings are usually marketed when they are 10 to 12 weeks old. a partial moult on the neck and breast occurs about this time giving them a somewhat rough look. this indicates that they are in proper condition to kill. if killing is not done within a week after this moult starts they will begin to lose flesh and it will be some time before they will fatten again. ducks when ready to ship will average from 5 to 6 pounds. a majority will weigh nearer 5 than 6 pounds. a pen of fattened ducks is driven up to the killing house and into a pen where each one is caught up and examined to see if it is in good condition. if the duck has a good smooth breast so that the breastbone is not felt when handled and is well fleshed on the back it is ready to kill. if it is not in this condition it is thrown out and these thin ducks are returned to the yards for further fattening or are utilized for shipping alive. thin ducks are generally used for live shipments as they will not shrink as much as well fattened ducks. [illustration: fig. 35. an important part of rations for ducks. green feed ready to be cut up into short lengths suitable for mixing in the feed. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 36. feeding fattening or yard ducks from the feeding track. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _cripples._ there will always be found in the flocks more or less crippled ducks and those with crooked backs, twisted wings, etc. as a rule ducks with twisted wings fatten well and are in good condition and can be killed about as soon as any of the others. the crippled ducks are sorted out into a lot by themselves where they are held until they can be put into condition to market. it is doubtful whether it pays the duck growers to bother with these ducks since they are rather difficult to condition and it would probably pay better to kill them. however, it is quite common practice to carry them until they can be marketed. _cleaning the yards._ the yards must be cleaned whenever they need it. it is a matter of judgment to decide when this is necessary but they must be cleaned whenever they get sticky or sloppy. the weather will have a considerable influence upon the frequency of cleaning which may be necessary once in two weeks, or in the yards of brooder houses nos. 2 and 3 may run as often as once a week. in dry weather the yards are cleaned by sweeping up the droppings and carting them away. in wet weather the ducks in running about over the yard pack down the droppings until they form a sort of putty-like layer which has to be scraped off with a hoe. _critical period with young ducks._ the critical period with young ducks is the first week of their existence. with good management after they have passed this point not many are lost. the loss in young ducks from the time they are hatched until they are ready for market will range all the way from 5 to 30%. when the loss does not average more than 10% for the season this is considered good. undoubtedly many duck raisers lose a greater percent than 10. [illustration: fig. 37. yard ducks at rest. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry. u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 38. on this plant, the lay of the land was such that not all of the yards could be run down to the stream. so a shallow canal was dug from the stream through the yards which were without natural water frontage. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] disease prevention trouble from disease in young ducks is not severe although there is a greater loss from this source than in the case of mature ducks. the aim of the grower should be to use such methods of management and feeding as will keep the ducklings in good health and reduce the losses to a minimum. to accomplish this care must be taken to see that the brooding temperatures are correct, that the feed used contains what the ducklings need, that they are not overfed and that the house and yards are clean and dry and the feed and water dishes are clean. remember that green feed and animal feed are essential ingredients in the ration. _gapes or pneumonia._ one of the principal troubles is a disease which is called "pneumonia" by some duck raisers and by others "gapes". it is not the same disease which is called gapes in chickens. in fact, it is a form of cold which approaches pneumonia. the little ducks stretch their necks up and breathe hard and usually die within a comparatively short time. this disease may affect either the baby ducks or ducks which are old enough to kill. all that can be done is to make sure that the housing and brooding conditions are such as to correct the trouble which causes the colds. _fits._ in addition, the little ducks for the first 3 or 4 days may be more or less subject to a disease which is called "fits" by some duck growers. with this disease they simply keel over and soon die. it is probably a digestive difficulty of some sort. the feeding of plenty of green stuff or the turning of the ducks out on grass will usually stop this trouble. _diarrhoea._ this is a fairly common trouble. it may be due to improper feeding, or to too high or low temperature in the brooder. the obvious treatment is to remedy the cause or causes of the trouble. _lameness._ not infrequently growers, particularly beginners, experience difficulty from a fairly large proportion of their ducklings becoming lame. this may grow worse until a considerable number of the birds will die. this trouble may be due to a lack of animal matter and mineral matter in the ration or may be due to digestive troubles caused by poor rations, by over feeding, by failing to gather up feed not eaten by the ducklings and leaving it to sour, or by lack of cleanliness of the feed and water dishes. where the pens are allowed to become damp and sloppy this may also cause some lameness. _sore eyes._ occasionally duck growers complain that their ducklings suffer from sore eyes. this may be due to a cold causing a discharge from the eyes or may be due to the use of too sloppy feed which adheres to the eyes and causes an irritation. affected birds should be placed in a separate pen from the others and the eyes should be bathed with an antiseptic solution. _feather eating or "quilling"._ this is a bad habit which is apt to cause more or less trouble when the ducklings are about two-thirds grown. it is much more likely to occur when the birds are kept in cramped quarters. it is usually started by one or a few individuals but when the feathers are injured so that they begin to bleed, which they will very quickly do, the vice will spread among the whole flock and serious damage will occur. it is therefore necessary to be on the lookout for this trouble, and as soon as detected, the birds responsible should be removed. if the culprits are placed with older birds which are already feathered, they will not trouble by trying to eat the feathers. it is the blood in the growing feathers which attracts them. if the habit has become general, it is more difficult to check. about the best thing that can be done, is to turn them out in a roomy yard, one with a growing green crop, if available, where they will be so busy as to stop the feather eating of their own accord. _rats._--rats are very destructive if they get into the brooder house. a single rat has been known to kill and drag off as many as 200 ducklings in one night. if a rat gets into the brooder house it is therefore of the utmost importance that it be hunted down and killed without delay. otherwise serious losses will result. cooperative feed association a very large proportion of the feed used on a duck plant is that which is fed to the market ducks. by purchasing feed in considerable quantities the duck grower is able to cut down the cost to some extent. a number of the duck raisers on long island have developed this idea further by forming a cooperative feed organization. stock in this concern is held both by the duck growers and by outsiders but is controlled by the duck growers. the feed association maintains a feed warehouse, purchases feeds in quantity and does business both with the duck growers and with other persons in the market for feed. the existence of a cooperative feed purchasing association of this sort not only cuts down to some extent the cost of feed but likewise makes it possible for the duck growers to have greater assurance of securing the supply which is so necessary to them during the growing season. chapter vii commercial duck farming--marketing on commercial duck farms, the business consists mainly of producing large quickly grown ducklings which are marketed before they are mature. because of this immaturity, the ducks are quite commonly termed green ducks. the business has also become so highly specialized on long island and this is such a center of the industry, that the birds are commonly quoted on the new york market as long island ducklings. _proper age to market._ it is important that the ducklings be marketed as soon as they have reached the proper age and stage of development. when the ducklings are about 10 to 12 weeks old they begin to shed their first growth of feathers. this is apparent first on the neck and breast, giving them somewhat of a rough appearance. the ducklings must be marketed within one week after they begin this moult. if they are allowed to go longer than this they will begin to get thin and as it will take them 6 weeks or more to grow a new crop of feathers it will be a considerable period before they get back in market condition again and any additional weight which they may attain will not be sufficient to pay for the feed eaten during this period. _weights at the time of marketing._ well grown ducklings should average in weight from 5 to 6 pounds at 10 to 12 weeks of age when they are ready to be marketed. a majority of the ducks will weigh closer to 5 pounds than they will to 6. the vast majority of ducklings are marketed at this age as it does not pay to keep them past the time they reach prime market condition. on commercial duck farms practically the only ducks which are marketed at an older age than this are the breeders which are turned off at the end of the laying season and the ducklings which by reason of their being crippled or less thrifty are not in suitable market condition at this time and are held longer until they are in good condition. the ducklings are marketed from early spring until late fall. the time at which ducklings are first available for market in any quantity depends upon the earliness with which the breeders begin to lay and the end of the season depends upon how late the breeders continue to lay at a profitable rate. _the last feed for market ducks._ it is important in order to have the dressed ducklings appear to the best advantage and also in order to insure their keeping qualities as much as possible that they should have no feed in their crops when they are killed. this means that if they are to be killed in the morning, which is the usual practice, they should be fed for the last time the previous night. if, however, they are not to be killed until afternoon they can be fed lightly in the morning. _sorting market ducklings._ when a pen of ducklings which are being fattened are deemed ready to be killed they are driven up to the killing house and a few of them at a time driven into a small pen where it is easy to catch and examine them. each duck as it is caught is examined to make sure that it is in proper market condition. the examination consists of feeling of the duck's body to see that it has a good smooth breast so that the breast bone cannot be readily felt. if it is in that condition it is ready to kill. ducks which do not show this condition are thrown out and returned to the yards where they are fed for a longer period unless it is desired to ship them alive. at the proper season of the year when breeders for the next season are to be selected, suitable birds for that purpose are picked out from the market lots as they are examined. in any lot of ducks there will be found some cripples. it is common practice to sort these out and group them together in a pen by themselves where they are held until they are in suitable condition for marketing. it is doubtful whether it pays to hold these cripples as they are hard to get in good condition and in many cases are probably kept and fed at a loss. some ducklings will show twisted wings but as a rule they are thrifty and will fatten readily and be in good market condition. [illustration: fig. 39. awaiting slaughter. the fattened ducklings are driven into these catching pens. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 40. carrying the ducklings from the catching pen to the killing place. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _killing._ as the ducklings suitable for killing are selected, 10 or 12 of them, depending upon the capacity of the killing room, are hung up by their feet, the head being fastened down by means of a hook or else weighted down by means of a blood can hung from a hook inserted through the bill. by means of a long, narrow bladed sharp knife the veins in the throat just beyond the skull are severed so as to cause free bleeding. the blood flows either into the blood can or into a trough above which the birds are hung. the birds are not stuck or brained unless it is desired to dry pick them nor are they as a rule stunned by hitting them on the head before bleeding. in some states, however, the law requires that all birds bled shall first be stunned in this manner. the bleeding of the ducks causes their death and they are allowed to hang until they are thoroughly bled out. they are then taken down, the blood washed off of their heads and placed on a table or on the floor convenient to the pickers, other ducks being hung in their places. [illustration: fig. 41. the ducks are hung by the feet and the veins in the neck cut from inside the mouth to cause free bleeding. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 42. after the throat veins are cut, the ducks are allowed to hang until they are well bled out. the blood is caught in the trough below. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 43. ducks which have been bled, ready to have the blood washed from their heads and mouths before they are picked. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 44. after they are bled and washed, the ducks are laid in the picking room ready for the pickers. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _scalding._ the picker selects a duck from the table where they are placed after being taken down and carries it to a large kettle of water which is maintained at a temperature just below boiling. they are thoroughly soused in this water holding them by the head and feet so as to allow the water to penetrate into the feathers until they can be readily plucked. the picker tests the readiness with which the feathers come out by plucking a few from the breast or body and thus determines whether the scalding is sufficient or whether more is required. care is taken not to dip the feet or head in the water as this might discolor these parts. practically all market ducks from long island are scald picked at the present time. dry picking which is demanded in some markets such as boston makes a somewhat better looking carcass and also increases the value of the feathers, but is generally considered too slow and too highly skilled a process for use on the average duck farm. [illustration: fig. 45. holding the head in one hand and the feet in the other, the picker dips the duck in water heated nearly to the boiling point and souses well to work the water into the feathers until they pluck easily. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _picking._. after scalding the picker starts removing the feathers. in doing this the duck is held either on the lap or on a board nailed to the side of the feather box. the feathers on the breast are picked first, then working down toward the tail, pulling the feathers with the grain. the soft body feathers as plucked are thrown into the feather box, the coarser feathers being thrown on the floor. the main wing and tail feathers are left on as are likewise some of the feathers of the neck next the head. the most troublesome part of picking ducks is removing the down. this may be removed to some extent by rubbing with the hand although care must be taken not to bruise the skin severely. in some cases the down is shaved off with a sharp knife. in some of the commercial packing houses the duck's body is sprinkled with powdered rosin and then dipped into the hot water. this melts the rosin so that the down and rosin can be rubbed off easily with the hand leaving the body clean. pin feathers are usually removed by grasping them between the thumb and a dull knife. in some packing houses, ducks are steamed before picking. where this is done they are picked clean and the wing and tail feathers are pulled before steaming takes place. six or eight ducks which have been bled are hung at the same time in the top of a steam box or barrel which can be made air-tight and the steam turned on until the soft feathers of the breast come off easily. the length of time to steam depends on the temperature of the steam itself and varies from one-half to 2 minutes. in some cases the ducks are hung in a steam box with the heads outside so as to prevent the steam from coming into contact with the heads, possibly discoloring them. on long island women are used very largely for picking and they secure for this service 6 cents per duck. a good picker should do 75 ducks or even more a day. the value of the feathers will slightly more than pay for the cost of picking. picking usually begins early in the morning about 6 o'clock and is generally finished by noon or soon after. most duck raisers figure on doing their killing and picking during the first half of the week and do not like to kill if they can help it during the latter days of the week. [illustration: fig. 46. picking the ducks. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _dry picking._ where the market requires it, the ducks must be dry picked. in doing this the procedure is the same as in dry picking chickens. after the cut is made to bleed the ducks, the point of the knife is plunged through the roof of the mouth until it reaches the brain when it is turned to cause a paralysis of the muscles which enables the feathers to be plucked more easily. the duck is then struck on the back of the head with a club to stun it and make it easier to handle when picking. the picker seats himself by the feather box, with the duck on his lap, holding the head pressed against the outside of the box and held there by the picker's leg. he then proceeds immediately and as quickly as possible to pluck the feathers. it is necessary to accomplish this without delay, for the feathers soon set and are then much harder to pluck and are more likely to result in tears in the skin. when removing the down, the hand is moistened when much of the down can be rubbed off. pin feathers are removed by grasping them between the thumb and the edge of a dull knife and any which cannot be gotten in this way are shaved off with a sharp knife. after picking, the carcasses are cooled in cold water the same as the scalded birds. _cooling._ after the birds are plucked they are thrown into cold water and are left there for several hours or until the body heat is entirely removed. it is most important that this be thoroughly accomplished for if any body heat is left in the carcasses they are almost sure to become green-struck when packed. the length of time that they must be left in the water depends upon the weather conditions. if the weather is warm so that the water is not very cool it is necessary to add ice in order to hasten the cooling and to accomplish it thoroughly. cooling in water also serves to plump the carcasses somewhat. _packing._ after the ducks are thoroughly cooled they are removed from the water and packed. long island ducklings are usually packed in barrels. forty-five ducks will pack in a sugar barrel and 33 in a flour barrel. the proper number for the barrel used is placed on hanging spring scales and weighed before being packed. the best method of packing is to lay the ducks on their sides. if they are packed on their backs or bellies, the ice used between the layers is apt to cause a cutting or bruising of the soft abdomens and injure the appearance of the carcasses. between each layer of ducks a scoopful of cracked ice is used although in cool weather it may only be necessary to use half a scoop of ice. after the barrel is packed it should be allowed to stand for a while to settle. then the top of the barrel is piled up with cracked ice and covered with burlap. on the side of the barrel is marked the number of ducks and their weight. later a card is tacked alongside of this showing the consignee's and the shipper's names as well as the number of ducks and their weight. [illustration: fig. 47. dressed duckling. the main feathers of the tail and wings and the feathers of the neck part of the way from the head to the body are left on. the rest of the body is picked clean. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 48. after thorough cooling a sufficient number of ducks to fill a barrel is weighed out and packed with or without ice depending upon the weather. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _shipping._ the barrels should be packed and shipped the same evening. shipping may be done either by express or by automobile truck. a good many of the long island ducklings are now shipped into new york city by truck. _cooperative marketing association._ the duck growers on long island have formed a cooperative marketing association. this association maintains its own house in new york city and sells practically the entire output of long island ducklings, controlling probably 90%. during the year 1919 there were in the neighborhood of 800,000 head of ducks marketed through this house. practically all of the capital stock of this concern is held by the duck growers and they are not allowed to sell any of their stock without first offering it to the association. _prices for ducks._ early in the season the ducklings bring the best prices, that is to say from march 1 to may 1. then as the output of ducks increases prices gradually drop. the heaviest shipments occur in june, july and august. in september as the output of ducks begins to drop off the price begins to climb a little. the following prices as quoted in the new york produce review show the range from march, 1920, to june, 1921. long island ducklings--fresh dressed 1920 march 31 45c per lb. april 21 45c " " " 28 38c " " may 5 35c " " " 12 35c " " " 26 35c " " june 2 35c " " " 9 35c " " " 16 35c " " " 23 35c " " " 30 35c " " july 7 35c " " " 14 35c " " " 21 35c " " " 28 35c " " august 4 36c " " " 11 36c " " " 18 36c " " " 25 36c " " september 1 36c " " " 8 37c " " " 15 37c " " " 22 38c " " " 29 38c " " october 6 38c " " " 13 38c " " " 20 39c " " " 27 39c " " november 3 40c " " 1921 march 30 48c per lb. april 6 46c " " " 13 38c " " " 20 38c " " " 27 38c " " may 4 35c " " " 11 32c " " " 18 28c " " " 25 28c " " june 1 28c " " the following quotations from the same source give the prices for frozen long island ducklings. 1920 january 7 41c per lb. " 14 41c " " " 21 41c " " " 28 41c " " february 4 41c " " " 11 41c " " " 18 41c " " " 25 41c " " march 3 41c " " " 10 41c " " " 17 41c " " november 10 40c " " " 17 40c " " " 24 40c " " december 1 40c " " " 8 40c " " " 8 40c " " " 15 40c " " " 22 40c " " " 29 40c " " 1921 january 5 40c per lb. " 12 40c " " " 19 40c " " " 26 40c " " february 2 41c " " " 9 41c " " " 16 41c " " " 23 41c " " march 2 41c " " " 9 41c " " " 16 41c " " " 23 41c " " quotations from the same source are given below to give some idea of the range in price of the live long island spring ducklings and likewise of live old long island ducks or breeders. long island spring ducklings--live. 1920 march 3 50c per lb. " 24 50c " " " 31 55c " " may 5 40c " " " 12 40c " " " 19 36 @ 40c per lb. " 26 40 @ 41c " " june 2 40c per lb. " 9 36 @ 38c per lb. " 16 36c per lb. " 23 37c " " " 30 38c " " july 7 38c " " " 14 38c " " " 21 40c " " " 28 40c " " august 4 38c " " " 11 34 @ 36c per lb. " 18 38c per lb. " 25 38c " " september 1 40c " " " 8 42 @ 45c per lb. " 15 45c per lb. " 22 45c " " " 29 40c " " october 6 42c " " " 13 42c " " " 27 42c " " november 3 42c " " " 10 42c " " " 17 44c " " " 24 44c " " december 1 44c " " " 15 42 @ 46c per lb. 1921 march 2 55c " " " 9 55c " " " 16 52c " " " 23 50c " " " 30 55c " " april 6 50c " " " 13 40c " " " 20 45c " " " 27 38 @ 42c per lb. may 4 38c per lb. " 11 38c " " " 18 33c " " " 25 33c " " june 1 32c " " long island old ducks or breeders--live 1920 march 17 45c per lb. " 31 45c " " may 19 30c " " " 26 35c " " june 9 30 @ 32c per lb. " 16 32c per lb. " 23 32c " " " 30 35c " " july 7 35c " " " 14 35c " " " 28 30c " " august 4 35c " " april 6 42c " " " 13 36c " " " 20 39c " " " 27 33 @ 37c per lb. may 11 33c per lb. " 25 30c " " _shipping ducks alive_. while the great majority of ducks are shipped dressed there is some shipment of live ducks. this is particularly true during the jewish holidays in march and in september and october when the demand for live ducks and the price paid for them is excellent. as a rule it pays better to ship alive the ducks which are inclined to be a little thin rather than to ship those which are in top market condition. this is due to the fact that fat ducks will shrink very considerably when cooped and shipped alive, this shrinkage running from one-half to three-quarters of a pound per head where they are cooped not to exceed 12 to 15 hours. the ducks which are in the fattest condition will shrink the most. at the season of the year when live ducks are in best demand it often pays to ship alive the ducklings which are sorted out as not being in the best condition rather than to hold them for further fattening. _saving the feathers._ the feathers from the ducks form quite an important source of revenue to the duck farmers. as stated before the value of the feathers will a little more than pay for the cost of picking and since this is a considerable item of expense the grower cannot afford to neglect the feathers. the soft body feathers are kept separate from the coarser feathers, the latter being thrown on the floor as they are plucked. these coarser feathers are later swept up and are commonly spoken of as sweepings. feathers from dry-picked ducks are superior in quality and bring a better price but most of the duck feathers now marketed from commercial duck farms are scalded feathers. the feathers after each day's killing are gathered up and spread out in a loft where they can be placed in a layer not over 3 or 4 inches deep. this should be an airy place so as to give the feathers a good place to dry out. on the second day they are scraped up in a pile and then spread out again, thus turning them over and changing their position. they are then left until they are dry enough to sack which should be in a little over a week. unless the feathers are thoroughly dried out they will heat when sacked and this will seriously hurt their market quality. when dry they are packed either in the large special feather sacks made for this purpose or in smaller sacks, about as big as two bran sacks, which will hold from 60 to 80 pounds of feathers. the feathers are shipped to regular feather dealers or manufacturers. [illustration: fig. 49. a valuable by-product of duck plants. the feathers from a duck will pay for the cost of picking. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _prices and uses of duck feathers._ the soft body feathers and the coarser feathers often called "sweepings" should be kept and sold separate. while scalded feathers are not worth as much as dry picked feathers, the former if properly dried out or cured will find a ready sale. feathers packed before they are thoroughly dried out, are likely to arrive at their destination in a matted and musty or heated condition. this, of course, injures their quality and the price paid for them is discounted according to their condition. the soft body feathers of ducks are used almost entirely for bedding purposes, that is, are put in pillows and feather beds. white feathers are preferred and usually bring a somewhat higher price. the prices paid for the feathers vary quite widely at different times of the year, and in different sections of the country, and also of course with the condition of the feathers themselves. the quotations given below represent the prices paid in june, 1921. duck feathers cents per pound pure white, dry picked 50 " " stained and scalded white 40 " " dark or mixed, dry picked 33 " " dark or mixed, scalded 20 to 25 " " _marketing eggs._ on commercial duck farms very few eggs are marketed. this is due to the fact that the duck growers find it more profitable to incubate all eggs suitable for that purpose and to rear and market the ducklings rather than to sell the eggs. there are always, however, a certain number of cracked eggs and others which may be too large or too small to use for hatching and which are therefore marketed. in addition the infertile eggs tested out on the 5th day are sold. the eggs may be packed in ordinary 30 dozen egg cases such as are used for hens' eggs, utilizing a special filler 5 cells square. with these fillers a case holds 20 5-6 dozen duck eggs. a special duck case, holding 30 dozen duck eggs may be used, the fillers in this case being 6 cells square like the fillers used for hens' eggs. the cells in these fillers are 2 inches square and 2¼ or 2½ inches deep. chapter viii duck raising on the farm duck raising as ordinarily conducted on the general farm consists of the keeping of a comparatively small flock purely as a side line. ducks on the general farm may be kept for the production of meat and eggs, for egg production, or mainly as a breeding proposition where the idea is to produce birds of exhibition quality. on occasional farms ducks of the rarer breeds are kept mainly for ornamental purposes. _conditions suitable for duck raising._ a small flock of ducks on the farm can be kept to best advantage where they can be separated from the other poultry and where they can have access to a pasture or an orchard which will provide them with a plentiful supply of green feed. ducks stand confinement quite well but if they are closely confined it is necessary to provide for them the green feed which they cannot secure for themselves. on many farms the flock of ducks is allowed to range at liberty and under these conditions the cost of maintaining them is much lower since they pick up a considerable part of their feed. an enclosed run or yard, however, should be available where they can be confined when desired. it is also necessary to provide a house or shed in which they can be shut at night and during the early morning. otherwise, many of the eggs may be dropped anywhere about the place or in the water with the result that some of them will be lost. a pond or stream to which the ducks can have access and in which they can swim is a great advantage since it helps to keep them in good breeding condition. it is a common but mistaken idea that low, wet land is best suited for ducks. _size of flock._--the average farm flock of ducks is small, rarely running over 15 to 20 head. in many cases not over 10 or 12 ducks with one or two drakes will be kept. a flock of this size will furnish quite a large number of ducks for the farmer's table or for sale in addition to more or less eggs which can either be used at home or sold. _making a start._ in making a start with a farm flock of ducks it is probably best to figure on keeping only a few head. if the farmer begins with 4 or 5 ducks and one drake he can make his start at small expense and from this number he will be able to increase the size of his flock if he finds that results warrant it. probably the best way to make a start is to purchase the desired breeding stock in the fall. this will give the ducks a chance to get settled and to be in good condition and accustomed to their quarters by spring so that they will begin to breed and lay. eggs for hatching can be purchased if desired and the young ducklings hatched and reared with chicken hens. baby ducks are rarely purchased in making a start as are baby chicks. _selecting the breed._ any one of the breeds forming the so-called meat class will prove satisfactory for a farm flock. this class includes the pekin, aylesbury, muscovy, rouen, cayuga, buff and blue swedish. the birds of any of these breeds are of good size and therefore produce a suitable table fowl. at the same time they are layers and will produce eggs for the table or for market as well. where the purpose in keeping the ducks is mainly that of producing eggs for market the runner is undoubtedly the breed to select. while these ducks are smaller in size the ducklings will make good carcasses of broiler size for the table being killed for this purpose when about 2½ to 3 pounds in weight. in addition, the runner is the best laying breed and by many persons is considered to be equal in its egg producing qualities to any of the breeds of chickens. selection of any breed or variety of the meat or egg classes and especially the selection of a breed or variety for ornamental purposes or for the pleasure of breeding will depend upon the individual preference of the owner for body shape, color of plumage and other characteristics. a pure breed of some kind should by all means be kept in preference to the common or so-called "puddle" duck. not only will the pure breeds give greater uniformity in the carcasses produced but the results in egg production will likewise be better. _age of breeding stock._ the best results in breeding are secured from ducks during their first laying season. not only is egg production better but they are less likely to become so fat and large as to interfere with the fertility and hatchability of the eggs. in fact, on commercial duck farms the breeding stock is entirely renewed each year. however, ducks can be profitably kept until they are 2 or 3 years old, and it is common practice in a farm flock to hold over some of the breeders after they have finished their first year. of course, where the duck breeder has some especially fine stock which will produce just the quality he desires in the offspring, he holds and utilizes these birds just as long as they are in good breeding condition. as a rule it is best not to hold breeding ducks after they have finished their second laying season. _size of matings._ the proper number of ducks which should be mated to a drake varies with the different breeds. pekins and aylesbury can be mated in the proportion of one drake to 6 to 8 ducks. in the rouen mate 4 or 5 ducks to a drake and in the cayuga 5 or 6 ducks to a drake. in the muscovy as high as 10 females may be mated with one male. in the blue swedish and buff mate in the proportion of 6 or 7 ducks to one drake. in the call and east india breeds from 5 to 8 ducks can be mated to one drake. in the crested white use 5 or 6 ducks and in the runner 6 to 8 ducks to a drake. where young drakes are used more ducks can be mated to them than is the case with old drakes. it is also true that where especially large exhibition birds have been reserved for breeding purposes it is necessary to reduce the number of ducks mated to a drake as otherwise the fertility is very likely to run lower with these older heavier ducks. _breeding and laying season._ under ordinary farm conditions where the ducks receive only fairly good care and feed the laying does not begin to any extent until february or march. with exceptional care the ducks will begin to lay in january and a few may even lay in december. the ducks lay very persistently and continue their laying until hot weather sets in or usually about the first of july. they gradually let up in their laying until it ceases almost entirely soon after that date. the breeding season is at its height in the months of april and may. at this time the fertility will run best and the results in hatching will be most satisfactory. however, it is possible to continue to hatch the duck eggs which are produced with fair results as long as the ducks continue to lay. management of breeders. _housing._ some sort of house or shelter must be provided for the breeding flock. any available shed or a part of the poultry house may be utilized for this purpose. no special requirements are necessary except that the house should provide sufficient ventilation. this is best furnished by means of a window and in addition, an opening in the front of the house should be provided which can be closed by means of a curtain during severe winter weather. a board floor is not necessary if the dirt floor is filled up 6 or 8 inches above the ground level outside the house. the floors should be provided with an abundance of litter which is usually changed only once or twice during the year. as the litter tends to become dirty more litter must be added. no equipment is necessary in the houses as the birds rest on the floor and lay their eggs anywhere about the house or wherever they may make their nests. the house should be so arranged that the ducks can be shut in at night and can be kept there until they have finished laying in the morning. as most of the duck eggs are laid early in the morning they can be let out by 8 or 9 o'clock in the summer. if let out earlier than this they are likely to lay some of their eggs in the pond or stream to which they have access and these would be lost. _feeding._ on many farms the breeding flock of ducks is fed on the same ration which is given the farm fowls. however, better results will be obtained if they are given special feeds. after the laying season is over the breeding ducks can be fed sparingly on a mash consisting of one part by weight corn meal, 2 parts bran, 1 part low grade wheat flour, 1 part green feed, 8% beef scrap and 3% oyster shell. this mash is mixed up with water until it has a consistency just between sticky and crumbly. it should never be fed in a sloppy condition. a feed of this mash should be given in the morning and at night and during the long days of summer it is well also to give a light feed of cracked corn or mixed grains in the middle of the day. however, judgment must be used in feeding ducks especially if they have range over which they can roam where they can pick up more or less animal feed and other material. in this case it is not necessary to feed nearly so much. another mash which may be used instead of the one given consists of 3 parts by measure of corn meal, 4 parts bran, 2 parts low grade wheat flour, three-fourths part beef scrap and 2 parts green feed with a supply of oyster shell. along about december 1 the feed should be changed with the idea of inducing egg production. a feed consisting of one part by weight corn meal, 1 part low grade flour or middlings, 1 part bran, 15% beef scrap, 15% vegetables or green feed together with oyster shell should be fed morning and evening and in addition a feed consisting of corn and wheat may be given at noon in a quantity of about one quart for each 30 ducks. as much mash should be given them at the morning and evening feed as they will clean up. another good mash feed which may be used consists of 2 parts by weight of bran, 2 parts middlings, 2 parts corn meal, 1 part beef scrap, 1 part ground oats and one-tenth of the total weight sand. in addition, of course, green feed must be added to the ration if it is not available at all times in the yard. this mash is fed in the morning and in the evening. the noon feed consists of 1 part by weight of corn and 2 parts oats. where green feed is not available and must be supplied, cut clover, alfalfa, rye, oats and corn may be utilized cut up into short pieces and mixed in the mash. the mash should be fed either to breeding stock or to ducklings on flat trays or boards rather than in troughs as the ducks can get at it better in this form. it must be kept in mind that while ducks are good egg producers during the laying and breeding season they will not lay any great number of eggs unless they are fed for this purpose. for rations used on commercial duck farms see chapter iv. _water._ it is important that a plentiful supply of drinking water be available to the ducks. a fresh supply must be provided at each feeding time before the feed is thrown to the ducks as they like to eat and drink alternately when feeding. where the breeding ducks have access to a stream or pond of fresh water it is not necessary to provide any other supply of drinking water. where water is available in which the ducks can swim it is essential to see that provision is made so that the ducks can get in and out of the water easily. if this is not done they may become exhausted and unable to climb out or they may become partially cramped when the water is very cold with the result that they will drown. if given access to water in which they can swim during cold weather it is necessary to be on the look-out to see that the ducks do not freeze fast to the ground when they come out of the water. _yards._ where yards are provided for ducks poultry netting about 2 feet high is ordinarily used. this will confine most of the breeds but higher fences even 5 or 6 feet high must be provided for the breeds which fly readily such as the muscovy, call, east india, mallard, wood and mandarin. in some cases it is even necessary to cover over the tops of the yards in order to keep the birds from flying out or to pinion the birds, that is, to cut off the outermost joint of one wing. the netting used for yards should be strung on posts set in the ground and the lower edge should be pegged down so that the birds cannot get under it. _care of eggs for hatching._ duck eggs for hatching must be gathered each day and should be put in some cool place to be held until they are set. they should be turned daily, the same as hens' eggs and the general care is exactly similar. it does not, however, pay to keep duck eggs as long before setting them as they spoil more quickly than hens' eggs. in fact, it is best to set duck eggs when they are not over a week old if this can be arranged. _hatching the eggs._ the period of incubation for duck eggs ranges from 26 to 28 days for all of the breeds except the muscovy. in this breed it takes from 33 to 36 days for the eggs to hatch. inasmuch as most of the commonly kept breeds are not very broody and therefore do not make reliable hatchers and mothers it is necessary to resort either to the use of chicken hens for this purpose or else to utilize incubators. either one of these methods can be used with good success. with the small farm flock it is very common to utilize hens. the ordinary hen will be able to cover 9 to 11 duck eggs to advantage depending on her size and upon the season of the year. in cold weather the smaller number should be used rather than the larger number. before setting the hen she should be thoroughly dusted with insect powder to free her from lice. several hens can be set in the same room but they should be confined on their nests allowing them to come off only once a day for feed and water. cracked corn makes an excellent feed for sitting hens. if desired muscovy, call, east india, mallard, wood or mandarin ducks can be allowed to make their nests and to hatch their eggs as they are reliable sitters and good mothers. after the duck eggs first pip there usually elapses a longer period of time before the ducklings get out of the shell than is the case with chicks. for this reason it is well to take the hens off for feed and water when the first eggs are pipped returning them to the nest as quickly as possible and confining them there until the hatch is over. during the last week of incubation it is desirable to sprinkle the eggs daily with water using quite a liberal amount as duck eggs seem to require more moisture than hens' eggs in order to hatch well. all duck eggs which are at all badly soiled should be washed before they are set. washing does not seem to injure their hatching qualities. in fact, some breeders prefer to wash all duck eggs whether dirty or not, feeling that this opens up the pores and causes a better hatch. this belief is based upon the idea that when ducks hatch their own eggs under natural conditions they have access to water in which they swim and in coming back on the nest their wet feathers serve to wash the eggs. where an incubator is used for hatching the eggs are placed in the machine just as hens' eggs. for the first week the temperature is kept about 102 degrees and for the rest of the period is maintained as close to 103 degrees as possible, the bulb of the thermometer being on a level with the tops of the eggs. often the temperature will run up a little higher than this at hatching time but this does not do any harm. an incubator will accommodate from four-fifths to five-sixths as many duck eggs as it will hens' eggs. about the fifth or sixth day the duck eggs are tested and all infertile and dead germs removed. from this time on eggs are turned twice a day and usually cooled once a day until they pip. a second test may be made about the fifteenth or sixteenth day when any eggs which have died are removed. if dead germ eggs are left in the machines they spoil very quickly and cause a strong odor which makes it necessary to remove them. during the last week or ten days and in some cases for a longer period than this incubator operators supply moisture daily to the machine. this is usually provided by sprinkling the eggs liberally with water which has been warmed to about the temperature of the machine. however, if warm water is not available, water of ordinary temperature may be used although it is not well to use extremely cold water. as a rule the eggs begin to pip about the twenty-sixth day. at this time the machine should be tightly closed up and left so until the hatching is over. in case moisture seems to be lacking and the ducklings are having a hard time to get out of the shell the machine can be opened and the eggs sprinkled again. if there seems to be sufficient moisture, however, the machines should not be opened or disturbed. as a rule it takes ducklings from 24 to 48 hours to hatch after the pipping first begins. it is advisable to leave the ducklings in the incubator until they are well dried off before removing them to the brooder. as a rule the hatching will be entirely over by the twenty-eighth day. _brooding and rearing._ ducklings can be brooded if desired by means of chicken hens. in this case the ducklings which the hen hatches should be given to her and she should be confined to some kind of a coop which will allow the ducklings to run at liberty. if the hen is given her liberty she goes too far and takes too much exercise for the little ducks. where artificial brooders are used any type of brooding apparatus can be utilized which is used with success for chickens. it must be remembered, however, that ducklings do not require as high a degree of heat as do baby chicks and should be started off at a temperature of about 90 degrees under the hover. this can be reduced rather rapidly until it is down to 80 at about 2 weeks of age. the length of time that the ducklings require heat after this depends upon the season and the weather. even in fairly cool weather they do not need any heat after they are 5 or 6 weeks old. it is necessary to keep the brooders clean and in order to do this they must be cleaned out frequently and new litter supplied. while the ducklings are small the brooders should be cleaned at least every other day and as they get larger, cleaning once a week with the addition of fresh litter between times will be sufficient. _feeding the ducklings._ ducklings do not need to be fed until they are from 24 to 36 hours old. at this time they may be given a mixture composed of equal parts by measure of rolled oats and bread crumbs with 3% of sharp sand mixed in the feed. this may be given them five times daily although some duck raisers feed only 3 times daily from the start. about the third day this feed is changed to equal parts of bread, rolled oats, bran and corn meal. after the seventh day the ration may consist of 3 parts bran, 1 part each of low-grade wheat flour and corn meal, 10% green feed, 5% beef scrap with about 3% of sand mixed in. the ducklings should be fed four times daily after the seventh day until they are two or three weeks old. after that time they need be fed only three times daily, morning, noon and night. the sand may be given to the ducklings either by mixing it in the mash or by feeding it in a hopper where they can help themselves. the mash feed which is prepared for the ducklings is mixed with water until it has a consistency a little wetter than crumbly but not exactly sticky. sloppy feed should never be used. as the ducklings grow older the amount of beef scrap can be increased until it consists of 15% of the ration by the end of the third week. the proportion of corn meal can likewise be increased and simultaneously the amount of bran decreased until the ducklings are on a fattening ration. unless they have a plentiful supply of green feed in the yards to which they have access it is necessary to provide this to the extent of about 10% of the feed and it should consist of tender green stuff rather finely chopped and mixed in with the mash. about 2 weeks before the ducklings are to be marketed they should be put on a ration consisting of three parts by weight of corn meal, two parts low-grade flour or middlings, one part bran, one-half part beef scrap, 10% green feed and about 3% oyster shell or sand. this mash is fed three times daily. another ration which can be used for fattening purposes consists of 3 parts corn meal, 1 part low-grade wheat flour, 1 part bran, 5% beef scrap and 3% oyster shell with green feed and grit in addition. where fish is available it can be substituted for the beef scrap but on most farms this is impractical. the fish where fed is boiled and mixed in the mash. however, no fish should be fed up to within 2 weeks before the ducks are killed as there is danger of giving a fishy taste to the carcass. for additional information as to feeding methods used on commercial duck farms which could be utilized to advantage for the farm flocks, see chapter vi. birds which are to be reserved for breeders should be selected out and taken away from the ducklings which are to be fattened. these breeding birds should be carried along on the ration which they have been receiving until about december 1 when they should be put on a laying ration. it is very necessary to see that the ducklings have a plentiful supply of drinking water. it is especially important to renew this supply just before the ducklings are fed so that they will have ample water while they are consuming their feed. the water should be given in dishes deep enough so that the ducks can immerse their entire bill as this enables them to wash the sand out of their nostrils. _water for ducklings._ in addition to the drinking water provided duck raisers sometimes allow the growing ducklings access to water in which they can swim. if it is desired to fatten the ducklings quickly and turn them off on the market as green ducks many raisers do not consider this advisable as it induces the ducklings to take more exercise and makes it more difficult to fatten them. however, access to water in which they can swim makes it unnecessary to provide any other supply of drinking water and for this reason lessens the work considerably. unless it is easy for the ducklings to get in and out of the water there is danger of some of them drowning as they are likely to get tired and unable to climb out. little ducklings allowed access to very cold water are subject to cramp and may be drowned as a result. _distinguishing the sexes._ it is difficult to distinguish the sexes of growing ducks until they begin to reach maturity. there is, however, a difference in their appearance. the drakes are coarser or thicker and more masculine in appearance showing this especially about the head and neck. also as they secure their mature plumage the drake shows curled feathers on top of the tail which are often referred to as sex feathers. in addition, the voice of the duck is harsher and coarser than that of the drake. _marketing the ducks._ most of the ducks produced on farms are marketed alive. this is because the farmer has no special market and he does not find that it pays him to dress and ship the ducks with the chance that they might spoil. in fact, most of the farm raised ducks are not turned off as green ducks at 10 to 12 weeks as is done on the commercial duck plants but are held until fall and then sold as spring ducks. they will weigh somewhat more at that time but as a rule the price received per pound will be lower than that obtained for green ducks during the spring and summer. where there is a special demand for ducklings which the farmer can supply it will pay him to dress and deliver the ducks. if it is desired to dress the ducks, the directions given under chapter vii can be modified to suit the farmer's needs. the soft body feathers should be saved in accordance with the directions given on page 106, as they can be used at home in making pillows or can be sold. such eggs as are produced in surplus may either be utilized on the home table or sent to market. as a rule duck eggs are not in great demand except at certain seasons such as at easter and during the jewish holidays in the spring and fall when they bring somewhat higher prices than hens' eggs. the larger size of duck eggs, however, makes them favored by bakers and they can usually be sold at any time in a city of any size at prices as good as those received for hens' eggs. eggs for market can be packed in the ordinary 30-dozen hen egg cases by using special fillers which hold 25 eggs instead of 36 as in the case of hens' eggs. see page 119. a farmer with a small flock of ducks will usually not have eggs enough to fill a case frequently and for this reason he usually finds it more convenient to market the few eggs he has by taking them into town in a basket. _disease and insect pests._ ducks are very little troubled by insect pests, nor are they greatly troubled by diseases. the usual difficulties encountered along this line are those discussed under this head in chapter vi. losses are often experienced as the result of predatory animals. rats will cause a great amount of havoc among the young ducks if they are able to get at them. a single night's work on the part of one rat may practically clean out a small flock of ducklings. it is necessary to make sure that the ducklings are shut in at night so that rats cannot get at them. geese part ii. chapter ix extent of the industry--opportunities geese can be raised successfully in practically all parts of the united states and are in fact scattered in small flocks over a considerable portion of the country being most abundant in the south and in the middle west. the census figures for the year 1920 show illinois with 195,769 geese to be the leading state in numbers, closely followed by missouri, arkansas and iowa. next in order of importance as goose raising states come kentucky, tennessee, minnesota, north carolina and texas. the census figures of 1920 compared with those for 1910 show a decrease in the number of geese from 4,431,980 to 2,939,203. the only groups of states which showed an increase in the number of geese during this period were the north atlantic and the mountain states. of the total farms in the united states only a small proportion, probably one-tenth, have any geese and the number of geese per farm would not average over 4 to 10 depending on the section. _nature of the industry._ geese are kept almost wholly in small flocks as a side line on general farms. the purpose of goose raising is primarily one of the production of meat although in the past flocks of geese have been kept to some extent, particularly in the south for the purpose of plucking them to secure the feathers. this practice of plucking live geese is decreasing and is much less common than formerly. the eggs of the geese do not enter to any extent into the egg trade of the country. as a rule all the eggs produced are hatched for the purpose of rearing young geese and it is only occasionally that goose eggs are used for culinary purposes. _opportunities for goose raising._ undoubtedly the greatest opportunity along the line of goose raising lies in the small flock kept on the general farm. where conditions are suitable, that is to say, where there is an abundance of suitable pasture land together with some water to which the geese can have access, a small flock can be most profitably kept. they can be reared very cheaply as both the young and old geese will secure practically their entire living during the summer from pasture if an abundant supply of suitable green material is available. the cost of rearing them therefore is low. in addition both the young and old geese are very hardy and require comparatively little care. they are little subject to disease and therefore losses are small. geese live and breed for a long time and this makes it possible to turn off to market a larger proportion of the young stock reared than is the case with most other classes of poultry. for all of these reasons, therefore, a small flock of geese will return a good profit to the farmer without having to supply any great amount of equipment or without having to feed very much in the way of expensive feeds. in addition to the geese which can be marketed, the maintenance of a small flock also helps to provide a variety in the farmer's diet by furnishing suitable birds for the holiday seasons such as thanksgiving and christmas. in addition to the opportunity for goose raising in small flocks on general farms there likewise exists a definite opportunity to specialize along this line somewhat more extensively. in certain places, notably the state of wisconsin, goose raising becomes a more important activity on some farms than merely that of a by-product. larger numbers are reared and special steps are taken in fattening and finishing them for market either by means of pen fattening or by means of hand fattening or noodling the geese. geese so finished for market bring a special price and allow a good profit to the raiser for the time which he has put into them. an outgrowth of the goose raising industry which has been worked to a limited extent consists of the gathering together of the geese raised in any particular portion of the country on one farm and the feeding of them there in large flocks in the fields so as to fatten them for market. there are not many of these special fattening farms but several persons in different sections of the country who have made a practice of gathering together and marketing the geese in this way have found it very profitable. probably a similar opportunity exists in certain other sections where goose raising on the farms in small numbers is common and where no one has yet made the effort to collect and fatten the geese before marketing them. while geese are not exhibited to the same extent as chickens, still there will always be found a market for birds of good quality, both for the purpose of exhibition and also as breeders to be used in improving the stock of other goose raisers. _goose raising as a business for farm women._ like turkey raising goose raising as a side line on the farm offers an excellent money making opportunity for the farm women. without any great outlay of capital to get a start and without its being necessary to provide much in the way of buildings or other equipment, a flock of geese can be started which will allow a nice profit to the farm woman for the care and attention which she gives them. in this connection it should be remembered that while the opportunities for profit may not be so large as in turkey raising, yet the care required is much less and the chances of serious difficulties due to disease and to inability to raise the young stock are relatively small. goose raising therefore offers a most profitable side line employment for the farm woman. _geese as weed destroyers._ as stated before geese are close grazers. in fact, during the growing season of the year green vegetation forms most and in some cases practically all of their diet. the vegetation which they will eat readily is quite varied and in many cases geese will be found to be very valuable in ridding pastures or fields of troublesome weeds. in the southern states geese are often kept on farms where cotton is raised for the purpose of keeping the cotton fields free from weeds. objection to geese an objection to geese often expressed but without good foundation is that they will spoil the pasture for other stock. this is not true if the pasture is not overstocked with geese. of course geese are very close grazers and if too many of them are kept on a field they will eat the grass down so close that there will be none for other animals to get. similarly the idea that other animals will not eat grass grown where goose droppings have fallen is not true except where the birds are too thick so that the grass is soiled badly by the droppings. the fact that geese are noisy creatures makes them undesirable to some persons. it is true that they make a good deal of noise and that their cry is of a very hoarse, rasping character and to a person with bad nerves they may be annoying but this is no valid or weighty objection to the normal, healthy farmer. the chinese geese are the noisiest and consequently the greatest offenders in this particular. a more valid objection to geese lies in the fact of their rather ugly disposition. ganders, especially as they grow older and during the breeding season, are decidedly pugnacious and will not hesitate to attack human beings. they strike heavy formidable blows with their wings and with their strong bills they inflict most painful bites. where there are children about the house it may be necessary to dispose of ugly ganders to safeguard the children from serious injury. chapter x breeds and varieties--how to mate to produce exhibition specimens--preparing geese for the show--catching and handling _breeds of geese._ there are six standard breeds of geese consisting of the following: toulouse, embden, african, chinese, wild or canadian and egyptian. all of these breeds consist of a single variety with the exception of the chinese which is composed of two. the toulouse is known as the gray toulouse, the embden as the white embden, the african as the gray african, the two varieties of the chinese as the brown chinese and the white chinese, the wild or canadian as the gray and the egyptian as the colored. the first four of these breeds are the ones which are commonly kept in domestication. in a general way it may be said that these breeds are meat breeds for the reason that they are kept mainly for the production of meat. the wild or canadian and the egyptian are more in the nature of ornamental breeds since they are not so commonly kept and are principally to be found where ornamental water-fowls are maintained. the chinese are sometimes classed as ornamental geese on account of their smaller size but they are much more commonly kept than either the canadian or the egyptian and make a good market fowl where the demand is not for such a large carcass. in addition to the standard breeds there are several other rare breeds among which is the sebastapol which is kept purely as an ornamental breed by reason of its peculiar feathering. the sebastapol is a white goose in which the feathers of the upper part of the body show a twisted or frizzled condition which gives it much the general effect of the feathers being curled. in addition to the standard breeds of geese there are kept on a great majority of farms ordinary common geese of no definite breed or variety. these geese in general are of smaller size than the larger standard breeds and have probably arisen as the result of the crossing of the standard breeds and the subsequent deterioration in size and color marking is due to careless breeding and selection. in some sections and for certain special purposes definite crosses of standard breeds are made for the production of table geese having certain desired qualities. for this purpose the african ganders are very popular used upon the toulouse geese. to some extent there is produced and marketed a goose known as the mongrel goose. this has excellent table quality and is in good demand on account of its superior eating qualities and its rapid growth. it is produced by using the wild or canadian gander upon toulouse, african or embden geese. the result of this cross is a hybrid goose which has much the appearance of the wild goose but which will not breed although the females will lay eggs. as a rule toulouse or african females are used for the cross rather than embden as from the latter there is a greater tendency to get a lighter cross which would not resemble its wild father so closely and might not therefore be so readily recognized as genuine mongrel geese. _nomenclature._ the term geese is used to indicate the birds of both sexes taken as a whole and also as a plural form for the word goose. the term goose is used to distinguish the female of the species. the male is given the specific name of gander to distinguish it from goose. the young of both sexes are termed goslings. in giving the standard weights for the different breeds of geese the birds are classified as adult ganders and young ganders and as adult geese and young geese. by adult goose or gander is meant a bird which is over one year old, by young goose or gander is meant a bird which is less than one year. not infrequently in connection with market reports use will be made of the term "green geese". this indicates birds which are marketed when they are of large size but still young and immature, the green referring to this immature condition. _size._ an idea of the size of the different standard breeds of geese can best be secured by giving the standard weights. they are as follows: breed adult adult young young gander goose gander goose toulouse 26 lbs. 20 lbs. 20 lbs. 16 lbs. embden 20 " 18 " 18 " 16 " african 20 " 18 " 16 " 14 " chinese 12 " 10 " 10 " 8 " wild or canadian 12 " 10 " 10 " 8 " egyptian 10 " 8 " 8 " 6 " _popularity of the breeds_. of the different standard breeds kept the toulouse is undoubtedly the most popular in this country probably due to its large size as well as to its quick growth. the embden follows the toulouse closely in popularity. the chinese geese are probably third most numerous in numbers while the african ranks fourth. in certain sections the african seems to be very popular and one would expect to find more of this breed than seem to be present on farms. neither the canadian nor the egyptians are to be found in any great numbers, the latter in particular being very rare. egg production it must always be remembered in speaking of the egg production of any breed of poultry that there will be a considerable variation in individuals within a breed and that egg production will also be affected very largely by the conditions under which the birds are kept. for this reason any attempt to give an average egg production for a breed is at best only an approximation. these approximations often serve, however, to show some well established contrast between the different breeds with respect to their egg laying ability. the toulouse is a fairly prolific breed of geese and individuals should average from 12 to 36 eggs, the majority laying about 20 eggs. the embden is very similar to the toulouse in laying ability although probably on the whole not quite so good a layer. the african is generally considered a good layer and is said to average from 20 to 40 eggs. some breeders state that the pure african are not as good layers as this, being about equal to the embden and that the better laying africans really have some brown chinese blood in them which has been introduced to increase prolificacy. the chinese is the most prolific breed. the birds of either the white or brown variety should average from 60 to 100 eggs. the eggs laid by the chinese are smaller than those of the toulouse, embden or african. the wild or canadian and the egyptian geese are small layers. they rarely lay more than one sitting during a season and the eggs will as a rule range from 4 to 8 in number. _size of goose eggs._ goose eggs are decidedly larger than duck eggs. there is a considerable variation in size, depending upon the breed. the eggs of the toulouse, african and embden are of about the same size and will vary from 6½ to 8 ounces each. the eggs of the chinese are smaller and will weigh from 5½ to 6 ounces each, while eggs of the canadian and egyptian are the smallest of the standard breeds, running from 5 to 5½ ounces each. _color of goose eggs._ in general goose eggs are whitish in color but may shade to a gray or buff tinge. the wild or canadian sometimes lay eggs which are off the white, showing a considerable green tinge. about geese and matings _broodiness._ all of the breeds of geese with the exception of the toulouse may be classed as broody breeds, that is to say, they will make their nests and hatch their young if given a chance to do so. not infrequently individuals of the toulouse breed will do this also but as a rule they are not dependable for this purpose. _size of mating._ in making the mating it is usual in order to secure best results to use one gander with from two to four geese in the toulouse, embden and african breeds. in fact, better results will be secured in these breeds where not over 3 geese are used and in many cases the geese are mated in trios or even in pairs. in the chinese geese a somewhat larger mating can be employed, one gander being used with 4 to 6 geese. the wild or canadian and the egyptian geese in most cases pair only. _age of breeders._ geese can be retained and will give good results as breeders for a longer period than most other classes of poultry. while the young geese will often lay during their first year the results from the eggs produced by them are not as a rule very satisfactory. it is sometimes claimed that the eggs of young geese will not hatch but this is untrue and goslings have been raised from such eggs. canadian and egyptian geese do not lay until they are 3 years old. females may be kept for breeding purposes until they are 8 to 10 years old and should give good results during this time. if they continue to lay longer than this and are valuable breeding individuals they should of course be retained just so long as they lay at a profitable rate. instances are reported where geese 15 to 20 years old were still giving good results as breeders. as a rule ganders cannot be successfully kept for breeding purposes as long as can the geese. yearling ganders are often used but they are at their best for breeding purposes when from 3 to 5 years old and it is not generally wise to retain them after they are 6 or 7 years old. egyptian and canadian ganders will not breed before they are 2 years old. in general it is good practice to mate young ganders to older geese and to mate younger geese with older ganders as this seems to get better results both in fertility and in hatching. _marking young geese._ it is often desirable to mark young geese in some way so that their breeding can be told or so that a record can be kept of their age. this can be readily accomplished by punching various combinations of holes in the webs between the toes at the time the goslings are hatched. _considerations in making the mating._[4] in making the mating in breeding geese it must be kept in mind that it is of primary importance to select the breeders first of all for size, prolificacy and vitality. without these qualities no matter what else the breeding geese may be there is scant chance of satisfactory results. having selected birds which are of suitable size and vitality those should then be utilized for breeding which approach most nearly both in type and color to the requirements as given in the american standard of perfection. as a rule, a new mating can be made by taking the birds selected and shutting them up together in a pen away from the other birds and out of sound of the voices of their former mates. as a rule about a month of this treatment will suffice to bring about the new matings desired and the birds can then be allowed to range at liberty. [footnote 4: for a more detailed description of the principles of breeding as applied to poultry and which is equally applicable to geese, the reader is referred to "the mating and breeding of poultry" by harry m. lamon and rob r. slocum, published by the orange judd publishing co., new york, n. y.] some ganders are very troublesome about mating. this is particularly true as they get older. in some cases it is impossible to get ganders to mate at all while frequently they will refuse to mate with more than one goose. as a rule, matings once made are permanent from year to year unless changed by the breeder on account of poor results. where new matings are to be made or where changes are to be made this should be done in the fall so that the birds will have been mated for several months before the breeding season begins in order to insure good results. after the matings are made the geese can be allowed to run together in larger flocks but the practice is frequently employed of keeping the different matings in pens to themselves so as to avoid the fighting which will otherwise occur between the ganders. during the breeding season the ganders are quite savage and will fight fiercely. breeds of geese[5] _the toulouse._ this breed is characterized by its very low down deep broad massive body. the body should come well down in front and should be so deep and full behind that it tends to drag on the ground when the bird walks. the skin of the rear portion of the body should have folds. the appearance or type of the toulouse depends a great deal upon the condition of flesh which a bird may be in at the time as a fat well fleshed condition will improve type very materially. a dewlap, that is to say, a pendulous flap of skin on the throat, is desired but comparatively few birds show a well developed dewlap. it is more likely to appear with age than it is in the younger birds. in color the toulouse breeds quite true. the principal difficulty which is encountered is the occasional appearance of one, two or three white flight feathers in the wing. these white flights constitute a disqualification and must of course be avoided in the breeding. it is necessary also to avoid any birds which lack in size, length, breadth or depth of body, particularly depth in front. birds of this breed are of large size and make quick growth and for this reason are a fine market goose although the dark colored pin feathers are somewhat of a drawback from a market point of view. [footnote 5: for a complete and official description and list of disqualifications of the standard breeds and varieties of geese, the reader is referred to the american standard of perfection published by the american poultry association, obtainable from orange judd publishing company, new york, n. y.] _the embden._ this breed is of good size but somewhat smaller than the toulouse. it has not quite so long a keel or underline as the toulouse and while deep in body it is not so baggy. there should be no dewlap in this breed. the plumage should be pure white throughout, the only difficulty of any importance occurring here being the occasional appearance of slate on the backs of young geese. this, however, is not serious as it almost invariably disappears with the first moult. embden geese are rapid growers and mature early which together with the fact that their plumage is white makes them an excellent market bird. _the african._ in type the african is much the same as the toulouse although not quite as large being about the size of the embden. what is desired is a low down body which is flat in keel and without any folds of skin. the neck should be short. this bird unlike the toulouse is characterized by a knob or protuberance extending out from the head at the base of the upper bill. this knob should be black in color and should show no tinge of yellow on the top or about the base. if the knob gets scarred or injured it is apt to turn yellow and freezing likewise is apt to cause it to turn yellow. birds of this breed both young and old should show dewlaps, the absence of these in adult specimens constituting a disqualification. as in the toulouse avoid any white flight feathers. the african makes an excellent market goose being like the embden and toulouse, quick growing and early maturing. the ganders are especially in favor for use in crossing with other varieties for the production of market geese. it seems probable that some brown chinese blood has been crossed into the africans on various occasions probably for the purpose of increasing the prolificacy of the african as the brown chinese is an excellent layer. it is also true that crosses between the brown chinese and the toulouse are sometimes shown for africans but as a rule this cross results in too dark a bird and such crosses should never be used for breeding purposes since they would not continue to give the uniformity and other qualities obtained in the first generation. _the chinese._ the chinese is quite different in type from the three preceding breeds. it is much smaller and higher set on legs and has a body much more upright in carriage. the neck is long and slender and the head has a large knob. an important part about the type is to secure a very slender neck, another important point being to secure a very large knob; the larger this is the better. there is, however, a decided tendency for the knob to run small when the neck is slender and it is difficult to secure in perfection the combination of a very slender neck and a large knob. the chinese geese should be in good condition but should not be too fat when shown as too good a condition of flesh injures the type materially. if fat there is a decided tendency for the birds to bag down behind which is undesirable. the chinese geese are the best layers but the egg which they lay is smaller. on account of their smaller size they do not make as good market geese where large sized carcasses are desired but where smaller carcasses suitable for family use are in demand the chinese make a satisfactory market breed. _the brown chinese._ in this variety the knob should be dark brown or black. as in the african, injury or freezing may turn the knob yellow which is undesirable. the plumage should be a rich brown shade of color, a faded gray color being very undesirable. the stripe down the back of the neck should be well defined and should be distinctly in contrast with the rest of the neck color. white feathers in the primaries or secondaries must be avoided. _the white chinese._ the knob in this variety should be orange and any tendency toward yellow should be avoided. the plumage should be pure white throughout. occasional young females may show slate in the back but this is not serious as it almost invariably disappears with the first moult. _the wild or canadian._ contrary to expectation this breed when domesticated is very peaceable and very tame. there is often, however, a tendency for them to grow uneasy when the migratory season comes. to keep the birds from flying away it is necessary to clip the flight feathers of one wing or what is safer still to pinion the bird. pinioning consists of cutting off the first joint of one wing. this may be done when the birds are small or may be done at any time and does not seem to bother them much. one of the best ways to accomplish this is to break the joint and then cut it off by using a chisel and hammer. not much bleeding will result but it is well to put a little iodine on the cut. these birds breed very true in type and color and progress in the mating simply consists of continuing to select those birds for breeders which show markings in the greatest excellence. in type a canadian goose is quite different from that of the other breeds mentioned. it is smaller, set much higher on legs and its body is neater and trimmer, and is oblong and carried in a horizontal position. the neck is long and slender. these birds mate only in pairs as a rule and the females do not mature and lay until they are three years old. the ganders often breed when they are two years old. usually only a single sitting of eggs is laid consisting of from 4 to 8. usually, however, all of these eggs will hatch and the young prove to be strong and easily reared. _the egyptian._ this is the smallest of the standard breeds of geese. in type it more nearly approaches the canadian than any other breed but it is somewhat longer in legs, showing more of the thigh beneath the body. the body is not carried in quite such a horizontal position as the canadian but slopes downward slightly from the breast to the tail. the neck is neither so long nor quite so slender as that of the canadian. this breed is the brightest colored of any of the geese and breeds fairly true in color and markings. like the canadian the egyptian goose is likely to become uneasy at times and one wing should therefore be pinioned or the flight feathers clipped to keep the birds from flying away. like the canadian the egyptians mate in pairs only and lay but one sitting during the year. the females do not lay until they are three years old. neither the egyptian nor the canadian geese should be closely confined or no eggs will be laid. the goose should be allowed to make her own nest and hatch her eggs. [illustration: fig. 50. left--egyptian gander. right--sebastapol goose. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 51. left.--toulouse gander. right--embden gander. (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 52. left--wild or canadian gander. right--african gander. (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] [illustration: fig. 53. left--brown chinese gander. right--white chinese gander. (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] preparing geese for the show the preparation of geese for the show is comparatively a simple matter. it requires first of all that individuals shall be selected which approach nearest to the standard requirements both in type and in color. as to the actual preparation for exhibition the geese are practically self-prepared. for a period of at least a week or ten days before they are shipped to the show they should be given access to a grass range and to running water. the grass range tends to put them in good condition while the running water will give them an opportunity to clean themselves. any broken feathers should be plucked at least six weeks before the birds are to be shown so as to give them an opportunity to grow in new ones. since all of the common breeds of geese, with the exception of the chinese, should be shown in a fat condition in order to give them their best type they should be given a grain mixture twice daily for a period of at least ten days before the show in order to get them in good flesh and to bring them up to standard weight. this ration should consist of one part corn and two parts oats. in chinese geese where it is desired to have them in good condition of flesh but without showing any tendency toward bagginess, oats alone should be fed as they are apt to put on too much fat when corn is fed as well. when the birds are shipped to the show they are quite likely to get their plumage soiled during the journey. if this occurs fill a barrel about half full of water. as the geese are taken from the shipping coops place two of them at a time in the barrel, cover it over and leave them for a few minutes. then take them out and they will usually be clean. catching and handling geese never catch geese by the legs which are weak and are easily broken or injured. for the same reason they should never be carried by the legs. in catching geese grasp them by the neck just below the head. often a crooked stick is of value in getting hold of the birds by the neck. geese can be carried short distances by the neck without injury but it is not advisable to carry them for any considerable distance in this manner, particularly if they are fat. the best way to handle the geese is to catch them by the neck, then place one arm over the shoulders and around the bird's body thus holding the wings in place while both legs are grasped with the hand. the neck should be held with the other hand to keep the bird from biting. in releasing the bird in a pen or shipping coop do not let go of the neck until the bird is placed where it is wanted. [illustration: fig. 54--proper manner of picking up and carrying geese with the head and neck under the arm. (_photographs from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] packing and shipping hatching eggs goose eggs for hatching must be shipped when they are fresh if they are to be received in good condition and are to give good results in hatching. they can be shipped long distances either by express or by parcel post. in order to prevent breakage and to lessen the effects of the jar to which the eggs are subjected during shipment they should be carefully packed in a market basket or other suitable receptacle. the same method of packing the eggs should be employed as with duck eggs described on page 137. prices for breeding stock while the demand for breeding stock is not so broad with geese as it is with some other classes of poultry, there does exist a steady and profitable demand for this class of fowls. goose eggs for hatching are usually sold in sittings of 5 and the price varies somewhat depending upon the variety. as a rule, embden and toulouse eggs will bring from 60 cents to $1.20 each. chinese goose eggs will bring from 40 cents to $1 each while the eggs of the african goose will bring from $1 to $2 each. of course the price of eggs for hatching like that of breeding birds depends on the quality of the stock. the prices for the birds themselves for breeding purposes will run anywhere from about $8 to $10 apiece for good birds suitable for breeding on farm flocks, to $25 or even $50 each of birds of especially fine quality. chapter xi management of breeding geese _range for breeders._ since grass or other vegetation, when plentiful, will furnish practically the entire living both for breeding and growing geese, it is by all means desirable to have suitable range for the breeding stock. aside from economy of production range is desirable from the fact that the breeders keep in better condition and better results in breeding and fertility are obtained. the range for breeding geese should therefore consist of grass land or pasture. often rather low wet land can be used for this purpose, particularly if some higher land is also available to provide a more favorable kind of grass. often geese can be ranged on the same pasture with horses or cattle. later in the season after the harvest, both breeding and growing geese can be given the range of the stubble fields to good advantage as they will glean most of the shelled grain. the entire flock of breeders is generally allowed to run together but the flock may be divided if desired, or each mating may be kept in a colony by itself if the fighting of the ganders proves troublesome. _number of geese to the acre._ the number of geese which can be kept or run to the acre depends of course upon the nature of the land available for the purpose. the better the pasture and therefore the more green feed available throughout the summer and fall, the more geese can be run. in general, the practice is to run from 4 to 25 geese to an acre; ten is a fair average under normal conditions. _water for breeding geese._ while water to which the geese can have access for swimming is not absolutely essential for their well being, they like it and it is well to provide water if possible especially during the breeding season. it not only takes care of the problem of supplying drinking water, but in the opinion of many goose raisers, increases the fertility of the eggs laid. a natural water supply such as a stream or pond in the pasture is therefore desirable, but if none is available an artificial pond or tank can be furnished to good advantage. _distinguishing the sex._ it is difficult to distinguish the sex of geese. it is, of course, necessary to know the sex so as to provide the proper number of ganders and so as to know what birds to pen together in making a mating. once the sex of a bird is determined it is well for the novice to mark it by means of a suitable leg band so that its sex can be easily distinguished in the future. it is more difficult to distinguish the sex of young than of old geese. the gander is generally slightly larger and coarser than the goose, with a longer, thicker neck and larger head. the gander also has a shriller cry than the goose whose cry consists of a harsher sound. some goose raisers claim that they can distinguish the sex of mature geese by the body shape, the underline of the body of the gander from the tail to the point where the legs join the body being nearly straight, while in the goose this line tends to round out with the fuller development of the abdomen. this difference is more marked during the laying season than at other times. considerable experience is necessary in order to distinguish sex by any of the means described and the really sure way is by an examination of the sexual organs or by observing the actions of the geese when mating. upon examination the sphincter muscle which closes the anus of the female when stretched will be found to have a folded appearance. if the gander is placed upon his back and pressure applied around the anus, the penis will protrude. this test is more easily made on a mature than on an immature gander and is also easier to make during warm than during cold weather. _purchase of breeding stock._ geese when mated usually stay mated permanently. matings are not, therefore, changed from year to year as a rule so long as they continue to give satisfactory results. if it becomes necessary to make new matings or to break up old matings, this should be done in the fall, so that the birds will be thoroughly used to the new order of things by the time the breeding season arrives, and the results in eggs laid and young stock grown will not, therefore, be adversely affected. for this reason, any breeding stock purchased should be secured in the fall rather than to wait until just before the breeding season opens. as a rule, also, a better selection of breeding stock to choose from is available to the purchaser in the fall. _time of laying._ geese start laying in the early spring and continue to lay throughout the spring. with special attention given to the feeding, they should begin in the northeastern part of the united states about february 1 and should continue to lay until about june 1 when geese of the heavier breeds such as the toulouse, african and embden will generally be pretty well through. some individuals will lay later than this and the chinese geese also have a rather longer laying season extending further into the summer. the length of the laying season is also affected by whether the geese are broken up when they become broody or whether they are allowed to sit. the latter practice, of course, stops the layings. it must be remembered that the canadian and egyptian as a rule lay only a single small setting of eggs during the season. as a rule geese lay during the night or the forenoon. the frequency of laying varies, some geese laying every other day while others lay more or less often. _housing._ geese withstand the weather very well and do not need much in the way of houses or shelter except during winter and during severe storms. in the north it is the usual practice and good practice to provide shelter for the geese, which may take the form of a poultry house, or of any shed or barn available for the purpose. a shed with openings on the south side makes an ideal goose shelter or house. most breeders in the south who give their flocks good attention also provide shelter for them during the winter although geese are also successfully kept in that section without shelter. the houses provided for the breeders must be kept clean and as dry as possible. the best way to do this is to bed them liberally with straw, shavings or some similar material, especially during the winter. as the bedding becomes soiled, more should be added and the house should be cleaned out from time to time and fresh litter put in. no equipment for the houses is necessary. the geese will lay their eggs in nests which they make on the floor and if plenty of clean bedding is provided, the eggs will not get badly soiled. large boxes, barrels, or similar shelter provided with an abundance of nesting material may be scattered about the range to provide places in which the geese may make their nests. _yards._ usually no yards are provided for geese as they are allowed the range of a pasture or are allowed to roam at liberty about the farm. any ordinary woven wire stock fence such as might be used to fence a pasture will serve to keep the geese confined as well as the other stock. if for any reason it is desired to confine geese to a yard, the effort should be made to provide yard enough so that the geese will have a constant supply of green feed. in a small yard this is impossible. a 2½ or 3 foot fence is high enough to confine any of the common breeds of geese and will also serve for canadian and egyptian geese if they have been pinioned which should always be done. _feeding the breeding geese._ while the flock of geese may be allowed to pick most of their living from a good grass range during the summer and fall, it is necessary to feed them during the winter. in fact during the summer it may be necessary to feed them lightly on grain or wet mash if the pasture gets short. the quantity of feed necessary for this purpose depends upon the condition of the pasture and must be judged by the condition of the birds. during the winter, they must be fed regularly. the feed given them should consist of both grain and some form of roughage. it is necessary to be careful not to overfeed so that the geese will become too fat, for while they should be in good condition of flesh at the beginning of the breeding season, if they are too fat, poor fertility and poor hatches will result. _feed._ oats makes the best feed for breeding geese as it is not too fattening. corn, wheat or barley fed alone is likely to prove too fattening but a limited quantity should be fed for variety. the grain should be fed twice a day throughout the winter and should be given rather sparingly, depending on roughage to make up the bulk of the feed. vegetables, clover or alfalfa hay, chopped corn stover or silage make good roughage for this purpose. corn silage is a fine feed if it is not moldy and does not contain so much corn as to be too fattening. about three weeks or a month before it is desired to have the geese commence laying, which should be at such a time that the first goslings hatched will have good grass pasture, a mash should be added to the feed to stimulate egg production. this mash is generally fed in the morning with the vegetables or roughage and may consist of three parts bran or shorts, one part corn meal and one-fourth part meat scrap. if available buttermilk or skim milk can be used to mix the mash and replace the meat scrap. another mash for this purpose consists of corn meal one-fourth part, bran two parts, and ground oats one part, mixed up with skim milk or buttermilk. grit and oyster shell should be kept where the geese can help themselves particularly during the laying season. drinking water must be available at all times and if a natural supply is not available, must be given in drinking fountains or dishes which should be so arranged that the geese cannot get their feet into the water. when they can get into the drinking water, they will quickly get it into a filthy condition. when the geese are running in a field with horses or cattle a small enclosure should be fenced in to which the geese can gain access by means of suitable openings but which will keep the other stock out. in this should be placed the drinking fountain for the geese and in this enclosure the geese should be fed. otherwise the cattle or horses will get most of the feed intended for the geese and in addition, some of the geese may be stepped on or kicked and injured when the stock crowds around at feeding time. chapter xii incubation _care of eggs for hatching._ since egg production usually begins early in the spring while the weather is still cold, it is necessary to gather the eggs at frequent intervals to prevent their freezing or becoming chilled. later in the season daily collection will be satisfactory. the eggs as collected should be kept in a cool place and where the evaporation of the egg contents will not be too great. if set at fairly frequent intervals, there will be no difficulty on this score. if they are to be kept for some time, they may be stored in bran to prevent evaporation. it is well to mark the eggs as gathered with the date they are laid so as to overcome the possibility of saving too long any eggs for hatching. some goose raisers think that it is best to wash goose eggs before setting them. this belief is based on the fact that when a goose makes her own nest and has access to water in which to swim she comes on the nest with her feathers wet. it is to simulate this condition that the eggs are washed. certainly any dirty eggs should be washed. _methods of incubation._ the most usual methods of hatching goose eggs are by means of the chicken hen and the goose. incubators may also be used but do not as a rule seem to give as good results as they do with hen or duck eggs. turkey hens may also be utilized for this purpose but are not commonly available although they make good mothers. probably the most common method of hatching is the use of chicken hens. next common is to allow the goose to hatch her own eggs. goose eggs hatch well under hens or geese. during the height of the season nearly every fertile egg should hatch if the breeding geese are managed and fed so that they are in good condition. early in the season the eggs may not run as fertile or hatch as well as later. _period of incubation._ the period of incubation of goose eggs is approximately 30 days, but may vary from 28 to 33 or occasionally even 35 days. _hatching with chicken hens._ chicken hens are used very commonly to hatch goose eggs both because they give good results and are readily available and also because it is desirable to take the first eggs laid by the geese away and not to let them get broody and sit so that they will lay more eggs. for the latter reason practically all the eggs laid early in the season are hatched by chicken hens. the nest can be prepared for the hen either in a suitable place in a poultry house or in a shed or other building or in a box or barrel on the ground. as soon as the hen shows that she is ready to sit by staying on the nest, in which has been placed a nest egg or two, for a couple of nights in succession, she may be given a sitting of eggs. four to 6 goose eggs will constitute a sitting for a common hen. the hen should be confined to the nest being let off only once a day for exercise, feed and water. the sitting hen must be given good care, being even more particular in this respect than when she is sitting on hens' eggs as the period of incubation is longer. in addition to being careful to see that the hen comes off her nest for food and water she should be dusted 2 or 3 times during the hatch with some good insect powder to keep her free from lice and therefore contented to stay on the nest. two or 3 days before the goslings hatch she should be dusted with especial care so that the goslings will be free from vermin. on account of the large size of the eggs the hen should not be depended upon to turn them and this should be done by hand once or twice daily. _hatching with geese._ all breeds of geese will hatch their eggs although some are more persistently broody than others while there is a considerable difference in individuals in this respect. toulouse and chinese are perhaps the least broody of the breeds and are sometimes termed non-broody. the eggs laid by geese are generally gathered as laid. if this were not done they will become broody and stop laying quicker than they do under this treatment. the goose should be allowed to make her own nest. often she will do this in a barrel, box or other shelter if these are conveniently available. when she shows that she is broody and has stopped laying she should be given a sitting of eggs which will consist of 10 or 11. geese are often difficult to manage when they have young. wild and egyptian geese should always be allowed to make their own nests which they like to do on dry ground near the water, using straw leaves or similar material to make the nest. they should not be disturbed as they are ugly during this time. they will hatch practically every egg. _breaking up broody geese._ a goose which shows a desire to sit, can be broken up quite easily by confining her to a slat-bottomed coop without any feed, but with plenty of water to drink, for from 2 to 4 days. after being broken up she will generally commence laying again after an interval of a few days. _hatching with an incubator._ while it is more difficult to hatch goose eggs in incubators than it is hen or duck eggs, this can be done by an experienced operator with a fair degree of success. the incubator should be operated at a temperature of 101.5 to 102.5 degrees f., with the thermometer so placed that the bulb is on a level with the top of the eggs. beginning with the third day, the eggs should be turned twice a day as with hens' eggs. beginning about the tenth day, the eggs should be cooled once a day, and they need more cooling than hens' eggs require. they should be cooled down to a temperature of about 80 to 85 degrees. all goose eggs whether in incubators or under hens or geese should be tested once during the hatch. the best time to do this is sometime between the tenth and fourteenth days, when any infertile eggs or dead germs should be thrown out. _moisture for hatching eggs._ where eggs are being hatched in an incubator, there is need for the use of considerable moisture. it should be added first at about the end of the first week of incubation and should be repeated a couple of times during the second week. this can best be done by sprinkling the eggs liberally with water heated to about 100 degrees. beginning with the 15th day and until 2 or 3 days before the eggs are ready to hatch soak them in warm water for from one-half a minute to a minute once every 2 or 3 days. for the last 2 or 3 days do this daily. when the eggs are being hatched by chicken hens or geese in nests indoors or in boxes or barrels and in dry weather, moisture should be added in the same manner and with the same frequency and amount as in the incubator. when the nest is on damp ground, it is not necessary to use any moisture on the eggs. _hatching._ goslings as a rule hatch rather slowly and somewhat unevenly, especially when under hens. for this reason it is well to remove each gosling as it hatches from under the hen or goose and place it in a covered, cloth-lined box or basket and keep near the stove until the hatch is completed. as soon as the hatch is over, the goslings that have been removed from the nest can be put back under the hen or goose which is to be allowed to assume the duties of motherhood. chapter xiii brooding and rearing goslings when the hatch is completed all the goslings which have been removed from the nest should be returned; and the hen or goose removed to the coop which she is to occupy while brooding them. at this time, if hatched with a hen the goslings should be examined carefully on the head and neck to see whether there are any head lice present. if any are found the heads and necks of the goslings must be greased with a little lard or vaseline. not too much grease should be used as it may prove harmful to the goslings. _methods of brooding._ the most common methods of brooding goslings are the use of geese, of chicken hens or of artificial means. geese make the best mothers but are not always available especially during the early hatches. geese may also prove rather unruly when they have young and for this reason are not in favor with some goose raisers. when hatching is done simultaneously with geese and hens it is the practice of some raisers to give all the goslings hatched to the geese to rear. hens can be used very successfully for rearing goslings especially if they are confined to a coop for the first week or two so that they cannot range too far and too fast and tire the goslings out. not over 6 or 8 goslings should be given to a hen to brood. artificial methods are very successful with goslings much more so in fact than are artificial methods of hatching the eggs. some goose raisers prefer to use artificial means of brooding, especially if they have only a few goslings and are brooding at the same time some chicks or ducklings. _brooding with hens or geese._ a suitable roomy coop should be provided to which the goslings with their mother, either hen or goose, can be moved when the hatch is completed. the coop should be so constructed by means of a slatted front or otherwise, that the hen can be confined and the goslings allowed to range. it is very desirable to get the goslings out on grass as soon as possible. a goose with goslings is often allowed to have her liberty but many raisers prefer to confine her to a coop the same as when a hen is used. the coop should have a board floor well bedded with straw, shavings or similar material. this will not only help to keep the goslings dry but will also serve to protect them from their enemies during the night. for this same reason the coop should be so constructed that it can be closed at night by means of a wire covered door so as to shut out marauders, and at the same time allow plenty of ventilation. the coop must be cleaned often so as to keep the goslings clean and dry. _length of time brooding is necessary._ the time that goslings need brooding will, of course, depend upon the weather. during mild weather 10 days is usually sufficient, after which they can do without any brooding. early in the season, brooding must be extended over a longer period. this may mean anywhere from 2 to 4 weeks or even longer. _artificial brooding._ for this purpose any brooder utilized for chicks or ducks can be used for goslings. to start with they should have a temperature of about 100 degrees but this can be reduced in a few days until in a week or ten days it is only 70 to 80 degrees or if the weather is mild artificial heat may be dispensed with entirely. where there are only a few goslings they may be put with a brood of ducks as long as they need heat. it does not work so well to put them with chicks both because they do not require a high temperature so long as the chicks and also because they are so large as to be likely to tread on and injure some of the chicks. brooders should be well bedded with straw, shavings or some similar material and should be cleaned out every 2 or 3 days so as to be kept clean and dry. do not crowd the goslings; give them plenty of room. some goose raisers do not depend upon heated brooders at all, especially when only a few goslings are to be brooded. for the first day or two the goslings are kept in a covered basket or box in the house near a fire and after this are put out during the warmth of the day but brought into the house and put in the basket or box at night until they are two or three weeks old. the same practice should be followed with goslings reared in brooders, these being used only during the night after the first 2 or 3 days, the goslings being put out-doors during the day in good weather. when goslings which are being artificially brooded are put out during the day on the grass, they should be confined at first. this can be easily accomplished by building a triangular enclosure, formed of 3 boards, 1 foot wide or wider, placed up on edge. this enclosure can be easily shifted to a new position each day thus giving the goslings fresh ground and fresh grass. general care of growing goslings goslings should be kept dry and for this reason should be kept shut up until the dew is off the grass in the morning. for the same reason they should not be allowed access to water in which to swim until they are at least 3 or 4 weeks old. when allowed to swim, care should be taken to see that they can get out of the water easily. goslings caught in a cold rain will often be overcome and apparently dead. frequently they can be revived and saved by wrapping them in a heated cloth and placing them near a warm fire. while they are still young, goslings should be driven under shelter whenever a rain storm comes up. when allowed to run at liberty, goslings must be kept track of to some extent. they may become lost and have to be driven back to their shelter at night. or they may fall into holes or get caught in fences and corners and must be released. when allowed to run with larger stock they are more or less liable to injury from being stepped upon or kicked. a growing coop or shelter of some sort should be provided for the growing goslings although this is not always done after they are pretty well feathered out. such a coop should be large enough so that the goslings are not crowded, and should be well ventilated. it should have a board floor and be capable of being closed so as to protect the goslings from their enemies, but without cutting off ventilation. if natural shade is not available where the goslings range, artificial shade of some sort must be provided during the hot weather. growing goslings are quite susceptible to extreme heat and will not make as good growth if not provided with shade. artificial shade of boards or brush can be easily provided. if for any reason it is necessary to confine growing goslings, they should be provided with good grass yards or runs and their coops or shelters should be moved to a fresh location frequently. it is better, if possible, to keep the growing stock separate from the old breeding stock as they will do better and make more rapid growth under these conditions. usually, however, where only a few geese are reared each year, old and young stock are allowed to range together. _feeding the goslings._ like chicks or ducks, goslings do not need to be fed as soon as hatched, the yolk of the eggs providing all the nourishment they need for at least 36 hours. they should, however, be furnished water to drink as soon as the hatch is completed. the first feed should consist of stale bread, soaked in milk or water. with this material should be mixed boiled eggs chopped up fine. the goslings should be fed 3 or preferably 4 times daily until they are 2 or 3 weeks old. chopped grass or some other green feed should be added to the feed, the quantity fed being increased steadily. it is important to get the goslings out on grass as soon as possible, which should be after the first 2 or 3 days if the weather is good, so that they will be able to graze for themselves. five per cent of fine grit or sharp sand should likewise be added to the feed. some growers prefer to feed the grit or sand in a hopper to which the goslings have constant access and from which they can help themselves. a constant supply of fresh drinking water is essential and this should be provided in drinking fountains or dishes such that the goslings cannot get their feet or bodies in them. when a good grass range is available, the goslings, after they are 2 or 3 weeks old, will need only one light feed of mash daily in addition to the grass they eat. such a mash will consist of 2 parts shorts and 1 part corn meal, ground oats or ground barley. where the pasture is good many goslings are raised from the age of 2 or 3 weeks until they are ready to be fattened without any other feed than the grass and other material which they get for themselves. however, the feeding of one light feed of mash a day is advantageous as it insures adequate feed for their need and promotes quicker growth. after the goslings are 6 weeks old, if they are still fed, the mash should be changed to equal parts shorts, corn meal and ground oats with 5% meat scrap. this same mash can be continued until fattening time. whole grains are not generally fed to goslings until they are well feathered and often not until it is desired to fatten them. _percentage of goslings raised._ goslings are for the most part quite hardy and are comparatively easy to brood. this coupled with the fact that they are relatively free from disease and are not much troubled with insect pests makes it possible to raise a large per cent of the thrifty goslings hatched. with good care and with good strong healthy stock, it should be possible to raise in the neighborhood of 90% of the goslings hatched. _rapidity of growth._ goslings make a very rapid growth. when marketed as green geese they are usually turned off at from 12 to 16 weeks of age. at this age they should weigh from 9 to 12 pounds, depending upon the breed and upon the rapidity of growth. many, probably most, young geese are not marketed at as early an age as this but are held until the christmas season or later and marketed at heavier weight. the best grown toulouse goslings should attain a weight of 16 to 18 pounds by christmas or when 6 to 8 months old. other breeds will weigh proportionately less. special attention or special feeding will, of course, increase the weight over that attained without such feeding. as a rule the heavier breeds such as the toulouse do not get their full growth until they are about 18 months old. after this as geese of both sexes grow older, they will, of course, fill out more and attain greater weight. _disease._ goslings are remarkably free from disease and a very large percentage of all strong goslings hatched should be reared. one of the principal difficulties is diarrhoea. this is usually caused by faulty feeding. it may be due to feeding too great a quantity of soft feed or to giving soft feed in too sloppy a condition. access to stagnant water, unclean enclosures or unclean drinking dishes may also cause diarrhoea. when partly grown goslings which are being given soft feed are troubled with diarrhoea, this may sometimes be checked by substituting a light feed of corn daily for a part of the soft feed. goslings are sometimes troubled with lameness. this is usually caused by faulty feeding also, particularly by feeding a ration which is lacking in something needed, such as some form of animal feed like beef scrap which may cause a lack of mineral matter in the ration. if the goslings cannot secure it for themselves a supply of grit or gravel should be placed at their disposal. there is an infectious disease of geese which sometimes causes trouble known as goose septicemia or hemorrhagic septicemia. this is a disease similar to fowl cholera and may attack either young or mature geese. it is not often found on farms where the geese are raised in small lots, but sometimes proves troublesome on farms where a large number of geese are gathered together for fattening. the geese are often found dead when one goes to feed them without having shown much preliminary sickness. the disease is usually fatal. shortly before they die the affected geese may acquire an uncertain gait and may twist the head about and burrow it in the dirt. treatment is of no avail. if the disease occurs in a flock, the affected birds should be removed and killed, while the rest of the flock should be moved to new ground if possible. the ground which they previously occupied should be plowed and any houses, shelter, feed troughs, and drinking vessels should be thoroughly disinfected. chapter xiv fattening and marketing geese _classes of geese marketed._ the market geese consist principally of the surplus young ganders not required for breeding purposes and such of the old geese of either sex as it may be considered desirable to get rid of. some young females, when the number raised is in excess of the number required for breeders also find their way to market. while these geese are marketed in the largest numbers during the thanksgiving and christmas holiday season, particularly the latter, some geese of course find their way to market practically throughout the year. there is also a rather limited trade in "green geese" which corresponds to the trade in spring or "green" ducklings. green geese are goslings about 12 to 16 weeks old, generally of the larger breeds, which are forced for rapid growth and are made to weigh in the neighborhood of 10 pounds at that age. these bring a good price and yield a good profit where there is demand for this class of geese. _markets and prices._ as with most classes of poultry, the large cities offer the best market for geese. especially the cities which have a large foreign population make good markets as many foreigners are more in the habit of using geese for a holiday dish than are native americans. the most favorable market usually occurs at christmas when roast goose and apple sauce is in considerable favor. considerable numbers of geese are also used at thanksgiving time and in recent years as the price of turkeys has steadily increased there has been an increasing tendency to substitute goose for turkey on that day. following are prices paid for various classes of geese on the new york wholesale market from may 1920 to june 1921 as reported by the new york produce review. quite a wide variation in price will be noted in many cases which reflects the difference in condition of the geese as received. in the case of express receipts of live geese where a wide variation in prices occurs the high quotations represent the receipt of especially fattened geese from nearby farms. western geese, frozen 1920 may 5 25 @ 31c per lb. 12 25 @ 31c " " 19 25 @ 31c " " 26 25 @ 31c " " june 2 25 @ 31c " " 9 25 @ 31c " " 16 25 @ 31c " " 23 25 @ 31c " " 30 23 @ 29c " " july 7 23 @ 29c " " 14 21 @ 27c " " 21 21 @ 27c " " 28 21 @ 27c " " aug. 4 20 @ 25c " " 1921 jan. 26 26 @ 34c " " feb. 2 26 @ 34c " " 9 26 @ 36c " " 16 26 @ 36c " " 23 26 @ 36c " " mar. 2 26 @ 36c " " 9 25 @ 35c " " 16 25 @ 35c " " 23 25 @ 35c " " 30 25 @ 35c " " apr. 6 25 @ 35c " " 13 25 @ 35c " " 20 25 @ 35c " " 27 25 @ 35c " " may 4 25 @ 35c " " 11 25 @ 35c " " fresh dressed geese 1920 nov. 17 34 @ 43c per lb. 24 30 @ 38c " " dec. 1 25 @ 36c " " 8 30 @ 36c " " 15 30 @ 39c " " 22 30 @ 40c " " 29 30 @ 40c " " 1921 jan. 5 30 @ 37c " " 12 25 @ 35c " " 19 25 @ 34c " " 26 25 @ 34c " " fresh dressed geese 1921 feb. 2 25 @ 34c per lb. 9 26 @ 36c " " 16 26 @ 36c " " 23 26 @ 36c " " mar. 2 26 @ 36c " " 9 25 @ 35c " " 16 25 @ 35c " " 23 25 @ 35c " " live geese--via freight 1920 may 5 18 @ 20c per lb. 12 22c " " 19 20 @ 22c " " 26 20 @ 22c " " june 2 20 @ 22c " " 9 20 @ 22c " " 16 20 @ 22c " " 23 18 @ 20c " " 30 18 @ 20c " " july 7 18 @ 20c " " 14 18 @ 20c " " 28 25c " " aug 4 25c " " 18 25c " " 25 25c " " sept. 1 25c " " 22 26c " " 29 26c " " oct. 20 25 @ 28c " " 27 27 @ 30c " " nov. 3 32c " " 10 32c " " 17 32c " " 24 28 @ 32c " " dec. 1 28 @ 30c " " 8 30 @ 34c " " 15 28 @ 35c " " 22 25 @ 30c " " 29 27 @ 32c " " 1921 jan. 5 26 @ 32c " " 12 26 @ 30c " " 19 25 @ 29c " " 26 25 @ 29c " " feb. 2 27 @ 33c " " 9 28 @ 33c " " 16 26 @ 32c " " 23 25 @ 26c " " live geese--via freight 1921 mar. 2 25c per lb. 9 18 @ 20c " " 16 18 @ 20c " " 23 20c " " 30 20c " " apr. 6 15 @ 18c " " 13 15 @ 18c " " 20 15 @ 18c " " 27 15 @ 18c " " may 4 14 @ 16c " " 11 14 @ 16c " " 18 14 @ 16c " " 25 14 @ 16c " " june 1 14 @ 16c " " live geese--via express 1920 nov. 24 30 @ 33c per lb. dec. 1 30 @ 32c " " 8 32 @ 35c " " 15 30c " " 22 30c " " 29 28 @ 35c " " 1921 jan. 5 29 @ 38c " " 12 28 @ 38c " " 19 28 @ 36c " " 26 27 @ 37c " " feb. 9 28 @ 40c " " 16 28 @ 42c " " 23 26 @ 28c " " mar. 2 25 @ 28c " " 9 20 @ 23c " " 16 18 @ 22c " " 23 18 @ 22c " " 30 20 @ 23c " " apr. 6 17 @ 20c " " 13 17 @ 20c " " 20 17 @ 21c " " 27 16 @ 20c " " may 4 15 @ 18c " " 11 15 @ 18c " " 18 15 @ 18c " " 25 15 @ 18c " " _prejudice against roast goose._ there exists on the part of some persons a prejudice against goose on the grounds that it is too greasy a dish. when improperly cooked, goose will prove to be too greasy to suit many fastidious palates but this condition is not so much the fault of the fowl as it is of the method of preparation and cooking. when dressed if the goose shows a large amount of abdominal fat, as it usually does and should, a large part of this should be removed. this fat when tried out is highly esteemed by many cooks and by other persons is treasured as an efficacious treatment for croup in children. also while the goose is roasting, a part of the fat as it cooks out of the carcass should be removed. treated in this way one need have no fear that the roast goose will prove too greasy but instead one will be pleasantly surprised at the rich taste which the roast goose possesses. _methods of fattening geese for market._ many geese are sent to market without any special treatment or effort to fatten them, being taken right off pasture in such condition as they happen to be or at best with only a half-hearted attempt to fatten them by feeding a little corn or some other grain for a short period. when a real effort is made to fatten geese for the market it is generally done in one of three ways. first is pen fattening which is the method best adapted to small lots of geese on the average farm. second is by noodling which is only attempted in sections where the goose raisers are somewhat of specialists and where the effort is made to turn out geese of superior quality. third is fattening in large flocks which is practiced only by a very limited number of farmers in scattered sections who take the unfattened geese raised on the general farms and finish them for market. _pen fattening._ for this purpose the geese are put in pens large enough to hold them comfortably but without any yards. not over 20 to 25 geese should be penned together for this purpose. to get the best results the geese should be kept as quiet as possible and to accomplish this the pens are partly darkened and the geese disturbed only at feeding time. the geese are fed three times daily; in the morning, at noon and at night, being given all they will clean up. one feed should consist of a moist mash composed of one part shorts and two parts corn meal. this mash should not be sloppy. the other two feeds consist mainly of corn with some oats or barley. some roughage such as vegetables or hay should also be supplied. the pens should be deeply bedded with good oat straw. the geese will eat a considerable amount of this which thus helps to supply the roughage which they need. the straw also, of course, serves to keep the pen and the birds clean. a plentiful supply of good drinking water is also necessary. the usual period of fattening is three to five weeks and a gain of from 4 to 6 pounds per bird can be secured. this method of fattening is commonly used by goose raisers in wisconsin and the geese from this state are noted for their fine quality. a less intensive form of pen fattening is often used by farmers where a small yard is provided in addition to the pen itself and where no effort is made to darken the pen. if no other means for fattening are available, a small yard can be built, a few boards arranged for a shelter at one end and the birds fed in this enclosure as described above. _noodling geese._ noodling geese is a method of hand feeding which has for its purpose the production of the best fattened geese. it is not employed to any extent except in the section about watertown, wisconsin, where the farmers specialize to some extent on goose fattening. it is a method requiring long hours and tedious labor and cannot be profitably carried on unless a special price can be obtained for the product. in noodling geese, 8 or 10 geese are placed in a pen about 8 by 12 feet which is heavily bedded with straw. a partition extends halfway across the pen and is utilized to keep the geese separate as they are fed. young ganders and any old ganders or geese which are to be marketed are used for noodling. the pen is kept dark and the geese should be disturbed only at feeding time. the first feed is given at 5 o'clock in the morning and five feeds are given daily at about 4 hour intervals, the last feed coming at 11 p. m. however, when the geese are first put on feed they are noodled only 3 times a day this being gradually increased to 5 times. the feeder sits on a box or stool in a corner of the pen, grasps each goose in turn holding it between his legs to keep it from struggling as he stuffs it with noodles. the goose is handled by its neck, never by its legs which are easily injured, and is held with its back toward the feeder. the feeder usually wears gloves to protect his hands from the severe bites which the birds will inflict. the feeder must also handle the birds as carefully as possible, especially as killing time approaches for the flesh bruises easily and the discolored patches spoil the appearance of the dressed goose. the feeder at the start usually gives each goose from 3 to 5 noodles, gradually increasing this to 6 or 7 noodles if the birds will stand it, the number of noodles fed depending upon the size and condition of each bird, the feeder being obliged to use his judgment in this matter. in general if any feed can be felt in the craw, no noodles are given until the next feeding time. failure to observe this is likely to cause the bird to go off feed. if any geese are noticed which are off feed they should be taken out and marketed. the noodles are made of scalded corn meal, ground oats, ground barley and ground wheat or wheat flour, using equal parts of each. this material is thoroughly mixed and salted as one would bread and is then put through a sausage stuffer. the product as it comes from the stuffer is cut into noodles about 2½ or 3 inches long and these are boiled for 10 or 15 minutes or until they float. a wash boiler with a wire rack forming a false bottom about 1½ inches above the boiler bottom is used for this purpose. when cooked the noodles are dipped in cold water and then rolled in flour to keep them from sticking together. a supply of noodles is made which will last for 2 or 3 days' feeding. just before feeding, hot water is poured over the noodles to make them warm and slippery. the mouth of the goose is forced open and the noodles are put in, one at a time, and worked down by using the fingers on the outside of the neck. as each goose is fed it is placed on the other side of the partition until all in the pen have been fed. it is important that plenty of drinking water be kept before the geese. the feeding period where geese are noodled usually extends from 3 to 4 weeks. gains of 6 to 10 pounds per bird can be secured and often an increased price of 10 to 15 cents a pound can be secured for such specially fattened geese. noodled geese will average about 25 pounds and some individuals have been made to weigh nearly 40 pounds. one man can noodle from 50 to 100 geese but has to put in long hours. noodled geese should be dressed where fattened as they are soft fleshed and would shrink badly if shipped alive. fattening methods similar to the noodling described are used in parts of europe for the production of the enlarged goose livers which are employed in making "patte de fois gras". methods used on fattening farms as previously mentioned, a few farmers make a specialty of buying the geese in their section of the country in the fall when it is too late for serious trouble to develop from hemorrhagic septicemia, a disease similar to fowl cholera, and to fatten or finish them in large flocks for the thanksgiving and christmas markets. methods are employed in different sections which differ quite widely. on a farm in the middle west the geese are collected from the general farms where they are produced in small flocks and brought to the farm where they are kept in flocks as large as 1,000 or even more, and are allowed to run in a cornfield or orchard. they are fattened for about a month. corn on the cob and plenty of water is kept before the geese all the time and if they are running in a cornfield they eat the leaves off the corn stalks for roughage. roughage is supplied if not available otherwise and straw, hay or vegetables are utilized for this purpose. no shelter is provided during mild weather, the geese getting such protection as they can from the trees or corn stalks. if the weather turns unusually severe, the geese are generally driven into sheds or barns. when fattened the geese are usually shipped to some large market alive. several farms in the neighborhood of boston make a specialty of finishing geese each fall, and the methods used are quite different from those described above. no geese are raised on these farms, the operation being confined to the fattening or finishing of the geese and to killing and dressing them for the market. some of these goose fatteners also have stalls or stands in the boston markets where they are enabled to dispose of their fattened geese to the best advantage. [illustration: fig. 55. large flock of geese fattening in an orchard. (_photograph from the bureau of animal industry, u. s. department of agriculture._)] _fatteners._ in previous years these fatteners depended largely upon the geese produced on the rhode island farms for their supply. in the past few years, however, the supply from this source has dwindled greatly and the bulk of the geese for fattening are now shipped from prince edward island, canada, in carload lots. such summer geese as are now fattened still come from rhode island and are brought in by truck. the fattening season begins in september and lasts until christmas. some early goslings are bought in june but there is not as good a profit from the summer geese, the demand and prices being adversely affected by the supply of spring ducklings available at that time. experience and good judgment will benefit the goose fattener greatly when purchasing his supply of geese for fattening. what he wants are goslings, not older geese, which have made a good growth and which have a large frame but which are in poor flesh rather than fat. such geese will make more rapid and more profitable gains. when geese are bought for shipment by the carload from prince edward island, they should be penned and fed at the point of shipment for 3 or 4 days before they are loaded in the cars, so as to put them in shape to stand the journey well. on the farms from which they come, the goslings are not fed much and in consequence are not in shape to stand shipment. _the goslings_ which are secured from the farms for fattening are mainly common geese of no particular breed. some pure bred geese are also obtained as are some first crosses between the pure breeds. a class of geese which is obtained in some numbers from prince edward island and which is much desired is the so-called "mongrel" goose. these are obtained by breeding a wild or canadian gander to geese of dark plumage similar to the toulouse or african. the mongrel geese much resemble the wild gander in type and color and are in demand on the market because of their wild or gamy flavor. they bring about 10 cents per pound more than common geese. the market, however, is somewhat limited. these geese will not breed although the females will lay eggs. where the wild gander is mated with light colored or white geese the offspring will have more or less light colored feathers and will not as closely resemble the wild parent and for this reason are not as desirable. _shipping._ the geese are loaded into stock cars into which three separate decks are built to accommodate them. from 1200 to 1400 geese can be loaded into a car thus arranged. the journey usually takes about 5 or 6 days and some fatteners send a man along with the car to feed and water the geese 2 or 3 times during the trip. if a man does not accompany the car, buckets of corn should be placed in the car for feed and some potatoes should also be supplied as these will serve in place of drinking water. if the car is not subjected to unusual delay, the geese should come through in good shape, but if much delayed there may be 25 to 100 geese dead when the car arrives at its destination. when the car arrives at the end of its journey, the geese are unloaded and driven to the farm where they are turned into the fields together in a large flock. the fields in which they are thus kept should have a supply of growing green feed or grass and a good supply of fresh drinking water. they are kept here until they are wanted for the fattening pens which may be from a week to 20 days after their arrival at the farm. while in this large supply flock they are fed on corn and grass which they can get for themselves. _summer geese_ to be fattened are placed only about 50 in a pen or enclosure; and are provided with a few boards set on posts to protect them from the hot sun. the later geese are fattened in lots of 3 or 4 hundred or even more, depending upon how many pickers are available to be kept busy. it is for this reason also that the geese are not all put on the fattening ration at the same time, but are started at intervals so as to have a continuous supply coming along to keep the pickers busy. the geese not put in the fattening lots at the start are left in the fields to grow and develop until they are needed. the enclosures in which the geese are penned for fattening are small lots or fields enclosed by stone walls or board fences 2½ to 3 feet high. these lots should be dry and well-drained, a location on a side hill being good for this purpose. the fattening lots must be kept clean and stagnant water must not be allowed to stand in the lots as this is likely to cause sickness, especially diarrhoea. these yards should be plowed up each spring and planted to oats, corn or some other growing crop to sweeten them. no houses or shelters are provided for these geese but some yards are somewhat wooded which affords a measure of protection from the wind. _feeding._ when the geese are placed in the fattening lots, some fatteners prefer to fast the geese for from 3 to 5 days, giving them no feed but plenty of water to drink. this gives them a good appetite and puts them in good shape for fattening. the geese are fed three times a day, in the morning, at noon and at night. the morning and night feed usually consists of a moist mixed feed fed in troughs; while the noon feed is whole corn thrown on the ground. the use of one feed of corn a day is supposed to check any tendency toward diarrhoea. in very cold weather some fatteners feed the mixed feed at noon and the corn at night. at first the geese are not given all they will eat but are worked up gradually, increasing the amount each day until they are getting all they want. as a rule the geese will drop back a little in feed consumption after they reach the point where they get all they want and from this time on, the feeding must be very carefully watched to see that they are not given so much that they will leave some to sour which would cause diarrhoea. the morning and noon feeds are lighter, the heaviest feed being given at night. the bird's appetites will vary from day to day so that it is best to make the rounds twice in feeding to make sure that they have enough and that none is left. if any is left it must be gathered up and carried away. no provision is made for furnishing the fattening geese with green feed or roughage. the practice with respect to drinking water varies. some fatteners keep a supply before the birds in troughs which must be washed out each day to keep them clean. others furnish no water except that used in mixing up the feed. _corn meal_ is the principal ingredient of the fattening mixture. to a sack of corn meal is added 10% beef scrap and five good shovels of grit or medium sized gravel. in addition some fatteners add 10% of flour to bind the mixture together. this material should be thoroughly mixed up in a dry state as a better mix can be obtained in this way. it is then mixed up with water, the practice here varying. some fatteners mix in a trough with boiling water a short time before feeding, while others mix it with cold water letting it soak over night and adding more water in the morning if it is too dry at that time. it should be mixed until it can be shoveled readily but should be quite solid, never in a sloppy condition as this is likely to cause diarrhoea. a little salt may be added, if desired, as an appetizer. while corn meal is generally used, hominy may take its place. after the geese are started on the fattening ration, this must be given throughout the fattening period. changing to some other feed will throw the geese off feed and cause a loss. _feeding._ when the mixed feed is ready it is shoveled into boxes or barrels on a low wagon and driven to the fattening lots where it is shoveled into the troughs for the geese. ordinary v-shaped troughs are favored instead of flat troughs as the latter afford hiding places for rats which may cause damage in addition to the feed which they eat by frightening the geese. geese are easily frightened and must therefore be handled rather carefully and gently as a severe fright will interfere with the gains they will make. some fatteners provide electric lights where the geese rest at night so that they can see and will not be so likely to become frightened. when the geese are ready to be killed they are driven up to the killing house and into a pen where they may be easily caught. each goose as caught is examined to see whether it is in condition for killing. if it is not it is put back with a later lot for additional fattening. good condition in a goose is judged by its weight when handled and also by the condition of its breast and the fat on its back. a good place to test geese for fat is on the side of the body just below the point where the wing joins the body. if fat can be seized between the thumb and finger at that point, the goose is in good condition. _dry picking._ all fattened geese for the boston market are dry picked. the goose is held between the knees of the picker with the wings held fast against the sides of the body. the head is grasped by the left hand, the mouth forced open and the veins in the back of the throat just beyond the skull severed with a sharp knife for the purpose of bleeding the bird. if the bird is to be stuck, which is not always done, the point of the knife is then plunged through the roof of the mouth to the brain. the legs are then seized in the left hand, together with the ends of the wings to prevent the goose from struggling and the goose is struck once or twice sharply on the back of the head with a club held in the right hand. this is for the purpose of stunning the bird. the geese may also be bled by sticking the knife through the neck from the outside just below the head. the picker then takes his seat beside the feather box, holding the goose on his lap with the head held between his knee and the outside of the box. he proceeds to pluck the feathers as rapidly as possible, removing all the feathers except the main wing feathers or those of the first joint of the wing and the feathers of the neck half way from the head to the body. all the soft body feathers are thrown in the box and saved. the coarser feathers are thrown on the floor. the down is removed by rubbing the moistened hand over the skin. to save the hands, ordinary rubber heels dipped in water are often used. sharp knives are also used to shave off the pin feathers which cannot be plucked and any down not removed by rubbing. the dry picked goose presents a much better appearance than a scalded goose and the feathers are more valuable. the skin of a dry picked bird is not so likely to be rubbed off in removing the down. _the value of the feathers_ is sufficient to pay for the cost of the picking or perhaps a little more. the cost of picking in the fall of 1920 ranged from 15 to 20 cents per goose where the picker was boarded and 24 cents without board. a good man can pick about 40 geese in a day. women are not employed for this work as the geese are too big and too strong for them to handle. after the geese are picked, the blood is washed from the head and the feet washed if that is necessary. they are then thrown into barrels of cold water to cool and must be left there until the body heat is entirely removed. the wings are tied in place by means of a string or tape tied around the body and wings and the legs may also be crossed over the back and tied. the geese when ready for market are either shipped in by express or are taken in by automobile truck. _gain in weight._ in fattening according to the methods described above a gain in weight is secured of from 6 to 8 pounds per goose. this does not represent the total gain in value, however, for the fattened geese will bring more per pound as a result of their finished condition. the fattened geese when ready for market will weigh from 12 to 20 pounds. weights taken on two carloads of fattened geese showed an average weight of 14 pounds. on december 2, 1920, fattened geese from these farms were bringing 42 cents per pound on the boston market while the mongrel geese were worth 50 cents or a little better. the question may arise as to the size of farm necessary to carry on a business of this sort. using the methods employed about boston a farm of 30 acres would be sufficient to handle 20,000 geese in a season. in selecting a farm for such a purpose, a location should be chosen where there are no close neighbors as the odor from the geese and yards is offensive to most persons. _selling geese alive._ most farmers who raise only a few geese ship them alive, either sending them to some commission house or selling them to someone who makes a specialty of fattening. such geese are often in poor condition and bring the lowest quotation. large coops similar to those used for turkeys should be used in shipping geese. _killing._ where geese are killed on the farm for shipment to market they are usually hung up by means of a cord about the legs. when geese are to be dry picked the veins in the throat just beyond the skull are first severed with a long bladed knife such as used for killing turkeys to cause good bleeding and the point of the knife is then plunged through the roof of the mouth to the brain performing the stick which serves to make the feathers come out more easily as with other classes of poultry. since it is rather difficult to dry pick geese, they are usually scalded or steamed and where this is done, the stick is not made but after the veins in the throat are cut, the goose is stunned by a blow on the back of the head with a short club. a blood can or weight is then hooked through the lower bill which keeps the neck straightened out and prevents the blood from being thrown about the room or on the birds. the birds are allowed to hang until they are dead and thoroughly bled out. _picking._ when geese are dry picked, the feathers are removed just as soon as the birds are stuck for the longer the delay the harder the feathers pull. the wings are picked to the first joint and the feathers of the neck half-way to the head. the soft pin feathers and fine down may be removed by shaving the skin or rubbing the body with moistened hands will partially remove them. usually geese are scalded or steamed for picking. for steaming a wash boiler three-quarters full of boiling water and with a burlap sack tightly stretched over its top can be used. the goose is simply laid on the sack and the steam coming through the burlap steams the feathers and makes them easy to remove. the breast should be steamed first, then the back and then each side. two or three minutes will be time enough to complete the steaming. the feathers are steamed until they pull out easily. the goose must be kept moving to prevent the flesh from becoming scalded and since the breast is especially tender it is usual to lay the head under the breast to prevent the latter from scalding. after steaming the body feathers are removed and the bird is then singed over a flame furnished by alcohol burned in shallow tin plates, in order to remove the down. the down may also be removed by sprinkling powdered rosin over the goose's body which is then dipped into hot water. the hot water melts the rosin which sticks to the down and the down and rosin can then be rubbed off together. geese may also be steamed by scalding slightly in hot water and then wrapping tightly in burlap or some other cloth. they are kept wrapped for about five minutes which allows the steam to work thoroughly through the feathers which can then be plucked easily. exactly the same methods can and often are employed in dressing geese as are used with ducks. the reader is therefore also referred to the material in chapter vii. there seems to be no great insistence on the part of most markets for dry picked geese. some will pay slightly more for the dry picked birds but others make no difference. _packing for shipment._ after picking, the geese are washed and then placed in cold water to cool. ice water is best for this purpose and is essential in warm weather. the carcasses must be allowed to remain in the water until they are thoroughly cooled, which will take at least one to two hours. if any animal heat is left in the bodies, they will spoil very quickly. often the carcasses are dipped in hot water, before being thrown in the cold water, to plump them. after they are thoroughly cooled, the geese are packed in barrels for shipping. if the weather is cool they may be packed in well ventilated barrels without ice, but if the weather is warm, cracked ice must be used in packing, proceeding in the same way as when packing ducks as described on page 109. it is always risky to pack without ice. _saving the feathers._ goose feathers are valuable and should therefore be saved when the geese are plucked. the soft body feathers and the coarser feathers should be kept separate. the feathers should be cured by spreading them out in a thin layer on the floor of a loft or room, stirring them up occasionally until they are thoroughly dried out, when they can be sacked and sold. failure to dry the feathers thoroughly will result in their heating and molding with the result that they will arrive at their destination in bad shape and will be worth less money. the soft body feathers of geese are practically all used in making beds and pillows while the quills are sometimes utilized in making toothpicks and cigarette holders. prices for goose feathers in june 1921 were as follows: pure white dry picked 75c per lb. good average white " " 65c " " largely gray " " 55c " " largely gray scalded 40c " " long goose quills 5c " " these prices were for good dry feathers. plucking live geese for their feathers in the days of feather beds and home-made pillows the practice of plucking live geese for their feathers was very common. now, however, with the demand for goose feathers less and with the opinion of some breeders that plucking geese is both cruel and injurious, the practice seems to be decreasing. many goose raisers in the south and a less number in the middle west and north however still pluck the feathers from the live geese prior to the time of moulting. the frequency with which the picking is done varies greatly, some picking as often as every six weeks during the spring, summer and early fall while others pick twice, once in the spring and once in the fall, or once in the spring only. geese should never be picked during the late fall or winter when the weather is cold or during the breeding season. both young and old geese are plucked and the average yearly production of feathers per goose is about one pound. when the quills of the feathers are dry and do not contain any blood, the feathers are ripe for picking. in plucking, a stocking is placed over the head of the goose and the goose held on the lap and between the legs during the process. an assistant to hold the goose during the plucking simplifies the work greatly. in plucking, part of the soft feathers of the breast, sides, abdomen and back are taken but these sections should not be plucked clean. it is especially important that enough short feathers be left to support the wings. after plucking, the feathers must be cured before they are shipped. this may be done by spreading them out on a floor as described for the feathers taken from slaughtered geese or they may be placed loosely in burlap sacks and hung up in a garret or loft. hanging in this way and in the loosely woven sacks, they are subjected to a good circulation of air and will dry out without heating. sacks of feathers should not be piled or packed closely together, on top of one another or even be allowed to lie on the floor until they are thoroughly dry as otherwise they are almost sure to heat and mold. index a absence of crest in crested white duck, 34 african goose, 156, 157 age of breeding ducks, 55, 123 breeding geese, 152 duck eggs for hatching, 72 ducklings for market, 96, 102, 136 green geese, 187 muscovy duck, 31 amount of feed per pound of market duck, 95 for noodled geese, 197 amount of land for duck plant, 46 for goose fattening farm, 208 arrangement of cars for shipping live geese, 202 arrangement of duck plant, 45 artificial water yards for ducks, 62 aylesbury duck, 23 b baby ducks, selling, 78 bantam ducks, 27, 29 bean, definition of, 13 black in, 22, 23, 35 bedding brood coop for goslings, 180 duck breeding houses, 60 duck brooder houses, 87 goose breeding houses, 168 pens for fattening geese, 195 beef scrap, feeding, to ducks, 64 bib in blue swedish ducks, 33 buff ducks, 36 bill, definition of, 13 black in, of black east india, 29 black east india duck, 29 black in bean of aylesbury, 23 crested white duck, 35 pekin, 22 black bill in black east india drakes, 29 black head, greenish, in buff drakes, 35 head, in fawn and white runners, 37 in face of muscovy, 32 plumage of blue swedish, 33 on head of young white muscovy, 32 tail coverts, greenish, in fawn and white runners, 37 bleeding ducks, 105 geese, 206, 209 blue cast in buff ducks, 36 muscovy, 32 swedish ducks, 33 wing bar in buff ducks, 35 body shape in breeding ducks, selecting for, 19 braining geese, 206, 209 breaking up goose matings, 154 broody geese, 175 breast-bone as index of age in ducks, 56 breeding drakes, securing, 58 ducks, opportunity to produce, 6 ducks, prices for, 7 season for ducks, 124 breeds of ducks, 9 aylesbury, 23 blue swedish, 33 broodiness of, 18 buff, 35 call, 27 cayuga, 25 common or puddle, 9 crested white, 34 east india, 29 egg, 11 egg production of, 15 mallard, 10 mandarin, 10 meat, 11 mule, 9 muscovy, 29 ornamental, 11 pekin, 21 popularity of, 14 rouen, 23 runner, 36 size of, 14 wood, 10 breeds of geese, 147 african, 156 canadian, 159 chinese, 158 common, 148 egyptian, 160 embden, 156 mongrel, 148 sebastapol, 148 toulouse, 155 wild, 159 brood coop for goslings, 179 brooder capacity on duck plants, 47 houses for ducklings, 80-90 brooders for goslings, 180 broodiness of ducks, 18 geese, 152 geese, breaking up, 175 brooding ducklings, 80-90, 131 goslings, 178 by artificial means, 180 with geese, 179 with hens, 179 without artificial heat, 180 brown chinese goose, 158 brownish color in cayuga ducks, 26 buff ducks, 35 button head in call ducks, 28 buying geese for fattening, 200 c call ducks, 27 canadian goose--see wild capacity of car for geese, 202 farm for fattening geese, 208 incubator for duck eggs, 130 capital, invested, for duck plant, 53 working, for duck plant, 54 care of duck eggs for hatching, 73, 128 goose eggs for hatching, 172 growing goslings, 181 hen sitting on goose eggs, 174 carrying ducks, 39 geese, 162 caruncles on face of muscovy, 29 cases, shipping, for duck eggs, 119, 137 catching ducks, 39 geese, 162 cayuga duck, 25 celery seed, feeding, to fattening ducks, 93 changing feed for fattening geese, 205 chestnut colored head in buff drakes, 35 chilling of goslings by rain, 181 chinese goose, 158 chocolate colored ducks from colored muscovy, 32 claret in breast of rouen drakes, deficiency of, 24 classification of breeds of ducks, 11 cleaning brood coops for goslings, 179 duck breeding houses, 60 brooder houses, 87 yards, 61, 97 goose breeding houses, 168 cleanliness of plumage as indication of health, 19 color of duck eggs, 17 goose eggs, 152 colored flights in fawn and white runners, 37 penciled runners, 38 colored muscovy, 31 commercial duck farming, opportunity for, 4 distribution of, 42 condition of breeding geese, 169 ducks ready to kill, 96 geese for fattening, 200 geese ready to kill, 206 conditioning exhibition ducks, 38 conditions for duck raising on the farm, 120 confining goslings to yards, 181 considerations, general, in making duck matings, 18-21 goose matings, 154 consistency of feed for ducks, 65, 126, 133 fattening geese, 205 construction of brooder houses for ducks, 82 cooking geese to overcome greasiness, 194 cooling duck carcasses, 108 eggs during incubation, 75, 131 cooling goose carcasses, 207, 211 eggs during incubation, 175 coop, growing, for goslings, 182 cooperative feed buying, 101 marketing, 110 copper colored head of buff drakes, 36 cost of picking ducks, 107 geese, 207 creaminess in plumage of aylesbury, 23 pekin, 23 crest, tendency toward, in the pekin, 22 of muscovy, 29 of crested white, 34 crested white duck, 34 crippled ducks, 97, 104 critical period with young ducks, 98 crooked back in ducks, 19 in runner ducks, 37 crooked crest in crested white, 34 crooked tail in ducks, 19 crossed feathers on neck of pekin drake, 22 crossing african and brown chinese geese, 157 curing duck feathers, 117 goose feathers, 211, 213 d darkening pens for fattening geese, 195 for noodling geese, 196 dewlap in toulouse geese, 155 african geese, 157 diarrhoea of ducklings, 99 of goslings, 185 diseases of ducklings, 98-100 of goslings, 185 of mature ducks, 69 prevention of, 98 dished bill in rouen, 24 distinguishing sex in ducks, 13, 135 in geese, 165 young from old ducks, 55 distribution of duck raising, 3 dogs a source of loss in ducks, 69 double crest in crested white ducks, 34 down, removing, from market ducks, 108 from market geese, 207, 210 drake, definition of, 12 adult, meaning of, 13 young, meaning of, 13 drakerel, definition of, 13 drinking dishes for ducklings, 86 for goslings, 183 driving geese from railway to farm, 202 drowning ducks, 31, 128, 135 dry, keeping goslings, 181 dry land duck farms, 44 dry picking ducks, 107 geese, 206 duck, definition of, 12 adult, meaning of, 13 young, meaning of, 13 duck raising as a side line, 120 distribution of, 3 for egg production, 5 for ornamental purposes, 7 kinds of, 4 on the general farm, 5 opportunities for, 4, 120 ducklet, definition of, 13 duckling, meaning of, 12 ducks, number of, in leading states, 3 in u. s., 3 value of, in u. s., 3 dun colored ducks from colored muscovy, 32 e egg class of ducks, 11 egg production, duck raising for, 5 of breeds of ducks, 15 of breeds of geese, 150 of pekins on commercial plants, 66 selection of breeders for, 21 eggs, duck, color of, 17 for hatching, age of, 72 care of, 73, 128 frequency of setting, 72 packing and shipping, 40 prices of, 7 selection of, 73 washing, 130 marketing, 118 size of, 16 eggs, goose, care of, for hatching, 172 color of, 152 size of, 151 washing for hatching, 172 egyptian goose, 160 electric lights for breeding ducks, 67 for duck plants, 51 for ducklings, 94 for fattening geese, 205 embden goose, 156 equipment of pens in duck brooders, 86 examining geese to determine sex, 165 fattened geese for market condition, 206 extent of duck industry, 3 goose industry, 141 eye as indication of health in ducks, 19 f faded gray in brown chinese geese, 158 fading of color in buff ducks, 35 cayuga ducks, 27 gray call ducks, 28 rouen ducks, 25 fasting geese before fattening, 203 fattening farms for geese, 199 fattening geese, by noodling, 196 methods of, 194 on farms in the east, 200 on farms in the middle west, 199 on large fattening farms, 199-208 pen, 195 fattening houses or sheds for ducklings, 48 fattening summer geese, 202 fawn and white runner, 37 fawn colored breasts in rouen females, 25 fawn on neck, too much, in fawn and white runner, 37 feather eating in ducklings, 100 feathered legs in ducks, 19 feathers, saving duck, 117 saving geese, 207, 211 plucking from live geese, 212 feed, cooperative buying of, 101 feed cooker for ducks, 49 cutter for ducks, 49 last, for market ducklings, 103 mixer for ducks, 49 storage for duck plant, 49 troughs or trays for ducks, 66 troughs for fattening geese, 205 wagon for ducks, 65 for geese, 205 feeding breeding ducks, 63 breeding geese, 169 call ducks, 27 ducklings, 92, 132 fattening geese, 195, 196, 203 geese during shipment, 202 goslings, 183 growing and fattening ducklings, 92-94, 132 noodles to geese, 198 show ducks, 39 show geese, 161 supply geese on fattening farms, 202 track on duck plants, 51, 65 fences for ducks, 52, 128 for fattening geese, 203 for geese, 168 fertility of duck eggs, 20, 77 fireless brooding goslings, 180 first feed for ducklings, 92 for goslings, 183 fish, feeding, to ducks, 63, 92, 134 fits in ducklings, 99 flat breast in aylesburys, 23 flatiron shape in call ducks, 28 folded feathers on neck of pekin drake, 22 foreign color in back of white runner ducks, 37 free range for ducks, 120 for geese, 168 for goslings, 182 freezing of ducks to the ground, 62, 128 frequency of plucking live geese for feathers, 212 of setting duck eggs, 72 frightening breeding ducks, 67 ducklings, 94 fattening geese, 205 g gains in weight made by ducklings, 94 secured in noodling geese, 198 secured in pen fattening geese, 195 secured on goose fattening farms, 208 gander, definition of, 149 gapes in ducklings, 99 geese as weed destroyers, 145 goose eggs for hatching, care of, 172 washing, 172 goose fattening farms, 199 goose raising, as a business for farm women, 144 as a side line, 141 distribution of, 141 on general farms, 142 opportunities for, 142 goose septicemia, 186 gosling, definition of, 149 grading growing ducklings, 87 grass yards for goslings, 182 gray call duck, 28 gray, faded, in brown chinese geese, 158 in plumage of blue swedish ducks, 33 stippling on penciled runner drakes, 38 greasing heads of goslings for lice, 178 green bill in aylesbury, 23 in buff ducks, 36 in crested white ducks, 35 in pekin, 22 in white runner, 37 green ducks, 102 green feed for breeding ducks, 64 for breeding geese, 169 for ducklings, 92, 133 for fattening geese, 204 for goslings, 183 green geese, 149, 187 grit for breeding geese, 170 for fattening geese, 204 for goslings, 183 growing green feed for ducks, 64 growth of goslings, rapidity of, 184 gypsy face in muscovy ducks, 32 h handling ducks, 39 geese, 162 geese during noodling, 197 hatches of duck eggs, 78 hatching duck eggs with an incubator, 70, 130 with hens, 129 hatching eggs, duck, packing and shipping, 40 hatching goose eggs with chicken hens, 173 with geese, 174 with incubators, 175 health, selection of breeding ducks for, 19 indications of, in ducks, 19 heating apparatus for duck brooder house, 83 heavy bottoms in runner ducks, 37 hemorrhagic septicemia of geese, 186 horse power required on a duck plant, 50 house capacity for breeding ducks, 46 for fattening ducks, 48 houses for breeding ducks, 59 for breeding geese, 167 hump back in ducks, 19 i identification of ducks by toe punching, 12 incubation, period of, for ducks, 47, 129 for geese, 173 incubator capacity on duck plants, 47, 71 incubator cellar, 70 incubators, kinds of, for duck eggs, 70 injury to ducks, 57, 62 to goslings, 182 insect pests of ducks, 69 k keel, deep, in aylesbury, 23 in call, 28 in pekin, 22 in rouen, 24 killing ducks, 105 geese, 206, 209 house for duck plants, 50 knob on head of african geese, 157 of chinese geese, 158 of muscovy drake, 29 l labor required on duck plants, 52 in noodling geese, 198 lameness of ducklings, 99 of goslings, 185 land required for duck plants, 46 laying ration for ducks, 126 for geese, 169 laying season for ducks, 66, 124 for geese, 167 lay-out of duck plant, 45 length of time in brooder house for ducklings, 88 brooding necessary for goslings, 180 lights for breeding ducks, 67 for ducklings, 94 for fattening geese, 205 live ducks, shipping to market, 116 live geese, shipping to market, 208 plucking for feathers, 212 location of duck plant, 42 of goose fattening farm, 208 lopped crest in white crested ducks, 35 loss in ducklings, 98 in geese during shipment, 202 lost, goslings becoming, 182 lots, fattening, for geese, 203 m making a start in duck raising, 121 making new goose matings, 154 mallard duck, 10 summer plumage of males, 25 mandarin duck, 10 marketing duck eggs, 118, 136 ducks, 102, 135 markets for geese, 187 marking ducklings, 12 goslings, 153 mating ducks, general considerations in, 18 geese, general considerations in, 154 meat class of ducks, 11 mixing feed for ducks, 65 for fattening geese, 204 moisture for duck eggs during incubation, 76, 131 for goose eggs during incubation, 176 molt of ducklings as indication of market condition, 102 mongrel goose, 148, 201 mortality of breeding ducks, 69 of geese during shipment, 202 mosquito larvae, destruction of, by ducks, 8 mule ducks, 9 muscovy duck, 29 n narrow shoulders in call ducks, 28 in pekin ducks, 22 nest, preparing the, for hatching goose eggs, 173 nomenclature of ducks, 12 of geese, 149 noodles, making, for fattening geese, 197 noodling geese, 196 number of breeding ducks required, 46 of ducklings marketed per breeding duck, 46 of ducklings to a pen, 85, 90 of ducks in leading states, 3 of ducks in u. s., 3 of ducks to a drake, 57 of geese carried on fattening farms, 208 of geese in leading states, 141 of geese in u. s., 141 of geese noodled by one man, 198 of geese to the acre, 164 of times ducklings are fed, 92 geese are fed on fattening farms, 203 noodled geese are fed, 197 pen fattened geese are fed, 195 o objections to duck farms, 43 to geese, 145 to goose fattening farms, 208 odor from goose fattening farms, 208 opportunities for duck raising, 4 for goose raising, 142 ornamental purposes, ducks for, 7 class of ducks, 11 output of duck plants, 42, 45 oyster shell, feeding, to breeding ducks, 66 to breeding geese, 170 p packing dressed ducks for shipment, 109 geese for shipment, 211 packing duck hatching eggs, 40 goose hatching eggs, 162 pasturing geese, 164 goslings, 183 patte de fois gras, 199 pay for picking ducks, 107 geese, 207 pekin duck, 21 pekin duck on commercial plants, 42 penciled runner duck, 37 penciling in buff ducks, 35 fawn and white runner females, 37 rouen females, 25 penciling, lack of, in penciled runner females, 38 pen fattening geese, 195 pens for fattening geese, 203 for noodling geese, 196 in brooder house for ducklings 84, 89 percent hatch of duck eggs set, 78 loss in ducklings, 98 in goslings, 184 period of incubation for duck eggs, 129 for goose eggs, 173 for muscovy duck, 30 period of feeding noodled geese, 198 pen fattening geese, 195 picking house for duck plants, 50 picking market ducks, 106 market geese, 206 pin feathers, removing, from ducks, 107 pinioning ducks, 28 wild geese, 159 pneumonia in ducklings, 99 popularity of breeds of ducks, 14 of geese, 150 pounds feed to produce pound of market duck, 95 prejudice against roast goose, 194 preparing ducks for the show, 38 geese for the show, 161 prevention of disease in ducklings, 98 prices of duck breeding stock and eggs, 7 of duck feathers, 118 of goose breeding stock and eggs, 163 of goose feathers, 212 of market ducks, 110 of market geese, 188 of mongrel geese, 208 of specially fattened geese, 208 prince edward island geese, 201 production, yearly, of feathers from live geese, 213 profits from duck farming, 54 protecting feed of geese from other stock, 171 puddle ducks, 9 pulling broken feathers in ducks, 38 in geese, 161 purple barring in black east india ducks, 29 purple rump in rouen drake, 24 q quilling in ducklings, 100 r range for fattening geese, 199 for geese, 164 rapidity of growth of goslings, 184 rations for breeding ducks, 63, 125 for breeding geese, 169 for ducklings, 92, 132 for fattening geese, 195, 197, 203 for goslings, 183 rats as source of loss in ducklings, 101 red in plumage of blue swedish, 33 removing baby ducks to the brooder, 80 newly hatched goslings from the nest, 176 reviving goslings chilled by rain, 181 rhode island geese, 200 ribbon or wing bar, absence of, in gray call, 28 ring, white, in buff ducks, 36 in rouen, 24 width of, in rouen, 24 roach back in ducks, 19 rouen duck, 23 roughage for fattening geese, 195, 199, 204 in rations for geese, 170 round head in runner ducks, 37 runner duck, 36 s sand, feeding, to breeding ducks, 66 to ducklings, 86, 93 to goslings, 183 scalding market ducks, 105 geese, 209 sebastapol goose, 148 selection of breeding ducks, 19 on commercial plants, 56 on general farms, 134 selection of breeding geese, 154 selection of duck eggs for hatching, 73 selecting the breed of ducks, 122 separating growing goslings from old stock, 182 septicemia, goose or hemorrhagic, 186 sex in ducks, distinguishing, 13, 135 in geese, distinguishing, 165 shade for breeding ducks, 60 for fattening summer geese, 202 for goslings, 182 for growing ducklings, 92 sharp backs in runner ducks, 37 shaving market geese to remove down, 209 shelter for fattening geese, 199, 203 for growing goslings, 181 shipping dressed ducks, 109 dressed geese, 208 hatching eggs, duck, 40 geese, 162 shipping live geese for fattening, 201 short legs in runner ducks, 37 shrinking in shipping ducks alive, 116 size of breeding ducks, 19 of breeds of ducks, 14 of breeds of geese, 150 of duck eggs, 16 of duck farms, 42, 44, 46 of flocks of breeding ducks, 46 of flocks of ducks on general farms, 121 of flocks of fattening geese, 195, 196, 199, 202 of goose eggs, 151 of male and female muscovy, 30 of mating in ducks, 20, 123 of mating in geese, 152 of sitting of duck eggs, 7, 129 of sitting of goose eggs, 163, 174 slate on backs of young embden geese, 156 of young white chinese geese, 159 smooth head in muscovy duck, 29 sore eyes in ducklings, 100 sorting growing ducklings, 87 market ducklings, 104 split crest in crested white ducks, 34 steaming ducks for picking, 107 geese for picking, 210 sticking or braining geese, 206, 209 stippling, gray, on penciled runner ducks, 38 stunning geese, 206, 209 summer geese, fattening, 202 summer plumage of rouen drakes, 25 swimming, preventing goslings from, 181 temperatures, incubation, for duck eggs, 74 for goose eggs, 175 temperatures, brooder, for ducklings, 81 for goslings, 180 testing duck eggs, 74, 130 table for candling duck eggs, 75 time of feeding breeding ducks, 63, 126 geese on fattening farms, 203 noodled geese, 196 pen fattened geese, 195 time of first feed for ducklings, 92 for goslings, 183 time of laying with ducks, 67 with geese, 167 time of marketing breeding ducks, 68 of plucking live geese for feathers, 212 to purchase breeding ducks, 121 breeding geese, 166 toulouse goose, defects in, 155 tray, feed, for ducks, 66 triple crest in crested white ducks, 34 trough, feed, for ducks, 66 turning duck eggs during incubation, 75 goose eggs during incubation, 174, 175 twisted wings in ducks, 19 u uses for duck feathers, 118 for goose feathers, 212 v value of duck feathers, 117 of ducks in the u. s., 8 of goose feathers, 207 vegetables, feeding, to ducks, 63 ventilation for goslings, 179 of brooder houses, 88 of incubator cellars, 71 of incubators when hatching, 77 vigor, selection of breeding ducks for, 19 w washing duck eggs for hatching, 130 goose eggs for hatching, 172 show ducks, 39 show geese, 162 water for breeding ducks, 61, 127 for breeding geese, 165 for ducklings, 96, 135 for fattening geese, 195, 198, 204 for geese during shipment, 202 for goslings, 183 water site for duck plants, 42 water supply for duck plants, 52 water yards for breeding ducks, 61 for growing and fattening ducklings, 96, 135 weed destruction by geese, 96, 103 weight of ducklings when ready for market, 96, 103 of geese from fattening farms, 208 of goslings when ready for market, 185 of green geese, 184, 187 of noodled geese, 198 weights of black east india ducks, 14 of call ducks, 14 of duck eggs, 14 of goose eggs, 151 of mallard ducks, 10 of standard breeds of ducks, 14 of standard breeds of geese, 150 white around eyes of blue swedish, 34 of cayuga, 26 white bib in blue swedish, 33 in buff ducks, 36 white call duck, description of, 28 white chinese goose, 159 white in breast of black east india, 29 of cayuga, 26 white in fluff of rouen drake, 24 white in wings of african geese, 157 of blue swedish ducks, 33 of brown chinese geese, 159 of buff ducks, 35 of gray call ducks, 28 of rouen ducks, 24 of toulouse geese, 156 white muscovy duck, description of, 32 black on head of young, 32 white on head of colored muscovy, 32 white on neck of cayuga, 26 white runner duck, 37 wild or canadian goose, 159 windpipe as indication of age in ducks, 56 wing bar, absence of, in gray call females, 28 wood duck, 10 y yards for breeding ducks, 58, 128 for breeding geese, 168 for fattening ducklings, 91 for fattening geese, 203 for goslings, 181 yellow bills in blue swedish, 34 in rouen females, 25 yellow, loss of, legs and bills of pekin with laying, 56 yellow on knob of african geese, 157 of brown chinese geese, 158 of white chinese geese, 159 yield of feathers from live geese, 213 * * * * * transcriber's notes apart from minor changes to formatting, table alignment and punctuation, the only changes made to the text from the original are as follows: preface (2nd page): "minumum" changed to "minimum" (... with the minimum of initial investment and of labor.) "sebastapool" changed to "sebastapol" in list of illustrations (egyptian gander and sebastapol goose) figure 50 caption, and twice in the index. this is consistent with the use of "sebastapol" in the text. page 20: "neccessary" changed to "necessary" (... it becomes neccessary to mate a smaller number of females ...). page 30: missing page reference added (see page 14). page 72: comma deleted after "of" (of course, eggs sufficient to fill the entire incubator capacity ...). fig 28 caption: "yords" changed to "yards" (long brooder house and yards with feeding track.) page 107: duplicate word "the" deleted (... hung in a steam box with the heads outside ...) page 131: "chickens" changed to "chicken" (ducklings can be brooded if desired by means of chicken hens.) page 136: missing page reference added (... in accordance with the directions given on page 106). page 137: missing page reference added (see page 119). page 141: "1920" changed to "1910" (the census figures of 1920 compared with those for 1910 ...) page 145: "in" changed to "is" (an objection to geese often expressed but without good foundation is that they will spoil the pasture for other stock.) page 154: "ameriacn" changed to "american" (... the american standard of perfection.) page 155 footnote: "standard" changed to initial upper case "standard" (american standard of perfection). page 163: missing page reference added (the same method of packing the eggs should be employed as with duck eggs described on page 137.) page 165: "thoughout" changed to "throughout" (... green feed available throughout the summer and fall ...) page 166: "penus" changed to "penis" (... the penis will protrude.) page 182: "close" changed to "closed" (it should have a board floor and be capable of being closed ...) page 194: "pleasanty" changed to "pleasantly" ( ...one will be pleasantly surprised at the rich taste which the roast goose possesses.) page 211: missing page reference added ( ... in the same way as when packing ducks as described on page 109.) page 222 (index): "stipling" changed to "stippling" (gray stippling on penciled runner drakes). 