yosemite legends by bertha h. smith with drawings by florence lundborg [illustration] paul elder and company publishers san francisco copyright, 1904 by paul elder and company san francisco [illustration: the valley in the mist.] [illustration] the legends page yo-sem-i-te, large grizzly bear 1 po-ho-no, spirit of the evil wind 11 hum-moo, the lost arrow 19 py-we-ack, the white water 31 tu-tock-ah-nu-lah and tis-sa-ack 45 kom-po-pai-ses, leaping frog rocks 55 the illustrations the valley _frontispiece_ mirror lake 1 a grizzly facing page 6 oaks 11 po-ho-no in bridal veil facing page 14 the lost arrow 19 tee-hee-neh facing page 26 cloud's rest 31 spirits of vernal falls facing page 38 el capitan 45 the spirit of tis-sa-ack facing page 52 the three brothers 55 the patriarch's prayer facing page 60 [illustration: yo-sem-i-te large grizzly bear "ke-koo-too-yem, the sleeping water."] yo-sem-i-te, large grizzly bear when the world was made, the great spirit tore out the heart of kay-o-pha, the sky mountains, and left the gash unhealed. he sent the coyote to people the valley with a strong and hardy race of men, who called their home ah-wah-nee, and themselves, the ah-wah-nee-chees. the ah-wah-nee-chees lived the simple, savage life, which knows no law but to hunt and kill and eat. by day the trackless forests rang with the clamor of the chase. by the flaring light of their fires the hunters gorged themselves upon the fresh-killed meat, feasting far into the night. they made war upon the tribes that lived beyond the walls of ah-wah-nee and never knew defeat, for none dared follow them to their rock-ribbed fastness. they were feared by all save the outcasts of other tribes, whose lawless deeds won for them a place among the ah-wah-nee-chees. thus the children of ah-wah-nee increased in number and strength. as time went by, the ah-wah-nee-chees, in their pride of power, forgot the great spirit who had given them their stronghold and made them feared of all their race. and the great spirit, turning upon them in his wrath, loosed his evil forces in their midst, scourging them with a black sickness that swept all before it as a hot wind blights the grain at harvest time. the air of the valley was a poison breath, in which the death shade hovered darkly. before the evil spirit medicine men were powerless. their mystic spells and incantations were a weird mockery, performed among the dying and the dead; and when at last the evil one passed onward in his cursed flight, the once proud and powerful band of ah-wah-nee-chees was like a straggling pack of gaunt gray wolves. their eyes gleamed dully in their shrunken faces, and the skin hung in loose folds on their wasted bodies. those who were able fled from the valley, which was now a haunted place, eerie with flitting shadows of funeral fires and ghostly echoes of the funeral wail. they scattered among the tribes beyond the mountains, and ah-wah-nee was deserted. a vast stillness settled upon the valley, broken only by the songs of birds and the roar of cho-look when spring sent the mountain torrents crashing over his head. the mountain lion and the grizzly roamed at will among the rocks and tangled chinquapin, fearless of arrows; the doe led her young by an open path to the river, where trout flashed their colors boldly in the sun. in the autumn the choke-cherries and manzanita berries dried upon their stems, and ripened acorns rotted to dust upon the ground after the squirrels had gathered their winter store. the homeless ah-wah-nee-chees circled wide in passing the valley. over beyond to-co-yah, the north dome, among the mo-nos and pai-u-tes, a few of the ill-fated ah-wah-nee-chees had found refuge. among them was the chief of the tribe, who after a time took a mo-no maiden for his bride. by this mo-no woman he had a son, and they gave him the name of ten-ie-ya. before another round of seasons, the spirit of the ah-wah-nee-chee chieftain had wandered on to the land of the sun, the home of happy souls. ten-ie-ya grew up among his mother's people, but the fire of a warrior chief was in his blood and he liked not to live where the word of another was law. the fire in his blood was kept aflame by the words of an old man, the patriarch of his father's tribe, who urged him to return to ah-wah-nee, the home of his ancestors, and gather about him the people whose chief he was by right of birth. so ten-ie-ya went back across the mountains by a trail abandoned long ago, and from the camps of other tribes came those in whose veins was any trace of ah-wah-nee-chee blood; and, as before, the number was increased by lawless braves of weaker bands who liked a greater freedom for their lawlessness. again, under the favor of the great spirit, the ah-wah-nee-chees flourished and by their fierce strength and daring became to other tribes as the mountain lion to the wolf and the coyote and the mountain sheep. [illustration: "a monster grizzly that had just crept forth from his winter cave."] and it chanced that one day while ten-ie-ya and his warriors were camped near le-ham-i-te, the cañon of the arrow-wood, a young brave went out in the early morning to the lake of ke-koo-too-yem, the sleeping water, to spear fish. his lithe, strong limbs took no heed of the rocky talus in his path, and he leaped from boulder to boulder, following the wall that rose sheer above him and cut the blue sky overhead. as he reached the base of scho-ko-ni, the cliff that arches like the shade of an indian cradle basket, he came suddenly upon a monster grizzly that had just crept forth from his winter cave. the grizzly knows no man for his friend; least of all, the man who surprises him at the first meal after his long sleep. the rivals of ah-wah-nee were face to face. the ah-wah-nee-chee had no weapon save his fish spear, useless as a reed; yet he had the fearlessness of youth and the courage of a race to whom valorous deeds are more than strings of wampum, piles of pelt or many cattle. he faced the grizzly boldly as the clumsy hulk rose to its full height, at bay and keen for attack. with instinctive love of conflict roused, the young chief seized a broken limb that lay at his feet, and gave the grizzly blow for blow. the claws of the maddened brute raked his flesh. the blood ran warm over his glistening skin and matted the bristled yellow fur of the grizzly. the ah-wah-nee-chee fought bravely. while there was blood in his body, he could fight; when the blood was gone, he could die; but with the traditions of his ancestors firing his brain, he could not flee. furious with pain, blinded by the blows from the young chief's club and by the blood from the young chief's torn flesh, the grizzly struggled savagely. he, too, was driven by the law of his breed, the universal law of the forest, the law of indian and grizzly alike,--which is to kill. such a battle could not last. with a low growl the crippled grizzly brought himself together and struck with the full force of his powerful arm. the blow fell short. urging his waning strength to one last effort, the ah-wah-nee-chee raised his club high above his head and brought it down with a heavy, well-aimed stroke that crushed the grizzly's skull and sent him rolling among the boulders, dead. that night as the ah-wah-nee-chees feasted themselves on bear meat, the story of the young chief's bravery was told, and told again; and from that hour he was known as yo-sem-i-te, the large grizzly bear. in time the name yo-sem-i-te was given to all the tribe of ah-wah-nee-chees, who for fearlessness and lawlessness were rivaled only by the grizzly with whom they shared their mountain fastness. and when long afterward the white man came and took ah-wah-nee for his own, he gave it the name by which ten-ie-ya's band was known; and cho-look, the high fall that makes the earth tremble with its mighty roar, he also called by the name of the large grizzly bear, yo-sem-i-te. [illustration: po-ho-no spirit of the evil wind "and the oaks unfurl their soft green banners in welcome of the coming summer."] po-ho-no, spirit of the evil wind the white man calls it bridal veil. to the indian it is po-ho-no, spirit of the evil wind. the white man, in passing, pauses to watch the filmy cloud that hangs there like a thousand yards of tulle flung from the crest of the rocky precipice, wafted outward by the breeze that blows ever and always across the bridal veil meadows. by the light of mid-afternoon the veil seems caught half-way with a clasp of bridal gems, seven-hued, evanescent; now glowing with color, now fading to clear white sun rays before the eye. the indian, if chance brings him near this waterfall, hurries on with face averted, a vague dread in his heart; for in the meshes of the bridal veil hides an eerie spirit, a mischievous, evil one--po-ho-no. in the ripple of the water as it falls among the rocks, the indian hears po-ho-no's voice. in the tossing spray he sees the limp forms and waving arms of hapless victims lured by the voice to their destruction. the indian's mistrust of po-ho-no dates back to a day of long ago, a bright blue day of early spring such as the children of ah-wah-nee love, when the valley has thrown off its white winter blanket, and dogwood blooms, and the oaks unfurl their soft green banners in welcome of the coming summer. it was the time when deer begin to trail, leaving the lowlands of the river for the higher ranges; and while the men hunted in the forest, the women went forth to gather roots and berries for the feast. the sun had come back from the south; and as he stood high in the heavens looking into the valley over the shoulder of lo-yah, the sentinel, three women were tempted to stray from the others and wander along a trail that led high above the valley to the spot whence the misty spray of the waterfall flutters downward. [illustration: "for in the meshes of the bridal veil hides * * po-ho-no."] they talked with what zest women may whose simple lives give them no secrets to hold or betray. they laughed as they filled their baskets, stooping to scrape the earth from a tender root, to strip the seed from a stalk, or gather grasses used in basketry; and their voices were as the purling of lazy waters gliding over stones. they were happy, for as yet they knew naught of the joy-sapping fever of discontent. of a sudden the laughter ceased, and in its stead arose the mocking wail of po-ho-no, spirit of the evil wind. the youngest of the women, venturing near the edge of the cliff to pick an overhanging wisp of grass, had stepped upon a rock where moss grew like a thick-woven blanket. she did not know that the soft, wet moss was a snare of the evil one, and even as the others cried out in warning, po-ho-no seized her and hurled her down among the rocks. a pair of helpless arms waving in despair; long, loose hair sweeping across a face, half veiling one last look of terror--and she was gone. if she uttered a cry, the sound was lost in the gleeful chatter of po-ho-no and his impish host. the two women left above dared not go near the treacherous ledge, lest they too come within reach of the vengeful spirit. afraid even to give a backward glance, they hurried down the steep path to spread the alarm. scarce was their story told before a band of daring braves rushed to the rescue of the maiden; but though they searched till night among the rocks where the water swirls and leaps to catch the rainbow thrown there by the western sun, they found no trace of her. the maiden's spirit had joined the forces of po-ho-no, and could know no rest, nor be released from his hateful thrall, until by her aid another victim was drawn to his doom. here she must stay, hidden by the mist from watchful eyes, beckoning always, tempting always, luring another soul to pay the forfeit of her own release. then, and then only, would the spirit of the maiden be free to pass on to the home of the great spirit in the west. since that day of long ago many of the children of ah-wah-nee have fallen prey to po-ho-no, the restless spirit of the evil wind, who wanders ever through the cañon and puffs his breath upon the waterfall to make for himself a hiding-place of mist. now every ah-wah-nee-chee knows this haunt of the evil one. by day they hurry past, and not one would sleep at night within sight or sound of the fall lest the fatal breath of po-ho-no sweep over him and bear him away to a spirit land of torture and unrest. [illustration: hum-moo the lost arrow "in its stead they left a pointed rock lodged in the cliff."] hum-moo, the lost arrow tee-hee-neh was the fairest of the daughters of ah-wah-nee, and the happiest, for she was the chosen bride of the brave kos-soo-kah. when she went forth from her father's lodge to bathe in the shadowy depths of ke-koo-too-yem, the sleeping water, her step was light as the touch of a wind-swept leaf upon the rocks. when she stooped to lave her cheeks in the cool spray, her dark hair fell about her shoulders like a silken web, and the water mirror showed her a pair of laughing eyes of the color of ripened acorns, and in them the soft light of an indian summer day. the sound of her voice was as the patter of rain on green leaves, and her heart was fearless and full of love. no other woman of the tribe could weave such baskets as grew by the magic skill of her fingers, and she alone knew the secret of interweaving the bright feathers of the red-headed woodpecker and the topknots of mountain quail. her acorn bread was always sweetest, the berries she gathered ripest, the deerskin she tanned softer than any other; and all because of the love in her heart, for she knew that kos-soo-kah would eat of her bread and fruit, would drink from the baskets she wove, would wear upon his feet the moccasins she made. kos-soo-kah was a hunter, fearless and bold, sure with bow and spear, always fortunate in the chase. in his veins ran the blood that surges hot when there are daring deeds to do, and of all the young chiefs of ah-wah-nee he had the greatest power among his people. like the wooing of the evening star by the crescent moon was the mating of tee-hee-neh with kos-soo-kah; and when the young chief gathered together robes of squirrel and deerskin and of the skins of water-fowl, arrows and spear-heads, strings of coral and bear teeth, and gave them as a marriage token to tee-hee-neh's father, the old chief looked upon him with favor. this was their marriage. but before tee-hee-neh should go with kos-soo-kah to his lodge there must be a great feast, and all day long ah-wah-nee was astir with signs of preparation. from many shady places came a sound like the tap-tap-tapping of woodpeckers, where the older women sat upon smooth, flat rocks pounding dried acorns into meal to make the acorn bread; and the younger women went with their baskets to the meadows and woods for grass seeds, herbs and wild honey. early in the morning kos-soo-kah left his lodge and gathered about him the strongest of the young braves to go forth into the forest and net the grouse, and seek the bear and deer in their haunts, for this was the man's share of the marriage feast. while his hunters strung their bows and fastened arrow-heads to the feathered shafts, kos-soo-kah stole away for a last word with tee-hee-neh, his bride; and when they parted it was with the promise that at the end of the day's hunt kos-soo-kah should drop an arrow from the cliff between cho-look, the high fall, and le-ham-i-te, the cañon of the arrow-wood. by the number of feathers it bore, tee-hee-neh could tell what the kill had been. the morning mists were still tangled in the pines when kos-soo-kah and his hunters began to climb the trail that cut into the heart of the forest. from a covert spot tee-hee-neh watched her lover disappear through the cleft in the northern wall, where the arrow-wood grows thick; then she joined the other women and worked with a light heart until long shadows stretched across the meadow and warned her of the hour when she was to be near the foot of cho-look to receive the message from kos-soo-kah. far over the mountains kos-soo-kah laughed loud with a hunter's pride as he bound to his swiftest arrow all the feathers of a grouse's wing. sped by a hunter's pride and a lover's pride he leaped along the rocky trail, far in advance of the youthful braves of his band who bore among them the best of the kill. eagerly he watched the western sky, fearful lest the sun's last kiss should tinge the brow of tis-sa-ack before he reached the cliff whence his bow should let fly the message to the waiting one below. the frightened quail fluttered in his path unseen. a belated vulture, skimming the fading sky, seemed not to be in motion. so swiftly kos-soo-kah ran, the wind stood still to let him pass. he reached the valley wall at last, his strength well spent but still enough to pull his bow to a full half-circle. poised for an instant, the feathered shaft caught on its tip a sun ray, then flew downward; but though mighty and sure the force that sent it, no message came to the faithful tee-hee-neh. hour after hour she waited, the joy in her heart changing to a nameless fear as the blue sky faded gray, and the gray went purple in the thickening dusk, and yet no sign, no sound of the returning hunters. "kos-soo-kah! kos-soo-kah!" trembled her voice in the stillness. only a weird echo answered, "kos-soo-kah." perhaps they had wandered far, and kos-soo-kah could not reach the cliff till the night shadows had crept out of the valley, and over the tops of the mountains. perhaps even now he was returning down the cañon of the arrow-wood. this she whispered to a heart that gave no answering hope. she would go forward to meet him, and hear from his lips the message which the arrow failed to bring. as she hurried along the narrow trail, clinging to the slanting ledges, pushing aside the overhanging branches, she called and called, "kos-soo-kah!" now and again she stopped to listen for the sound of voices, or of footsteps, but only the cry of a night bird or the crackling of dry twigs stirred the still air. [illustration: "crouching there * * she called again, 'kos-soo-kah!'"] trembling with uncertainty and fear, she reached the top of the sharp ascent. there by the light of the stars she saw fresh footprints in the loose, moist earth. her heart told her they were his; her quick eye told her they went toward the cliff, but did not return. crouching there beside them, she called again, "kos-soo-kah!" not even an echo answered the despairing cry. slowly she crept forward, following the fresh trail to the edge of the wall. she leaned far over, and there on a mound of fallen rock lay her lover, motionless, nor answering her call. tight in his grasp was the spent bow, the sign of a promise kept. as she looked, there came again to tee-hee-neh's mind the dull roar of rending rock, the low moan of falling earth, that ran through the valley at the sunset hour. now she knew that as kos-soo-kah drew his bow to speed the messenger of love, the ground beneath his feet had given way, carrying him with the fatal avalanche. the girl's heart no longer beat fast with fear. it seemed not to beat at all. but there was no time for grief,--perhaps kos-soo-kah had not ceased to breathe. on the topmost point of rock she lighted a signal fire, and forced its flames high into the dark, flashing a call for help. it would be long, she knew, before any one could come; but this was the only chance to save kos-soo-kah. hours passed. with feverish energy she piled dry branches high upon the signal fire, nor let its wild beckonings rest a moment. at last old men came from the valley, and the young braves from the mountains bearing with them the carcasses of deer and bear. with their hunting-knives they cut lengths of tamarack, and lashed them together with thongs of hide from the deer killed for the marriage feast. by means of this pole they would have lowered over the edge of the cliff a strong young brave but that tee-hee-neh pushed him aside and took his place. hers must be the voice to whisper in kos-soo-kah's ear the first word of hope; hers the hand to push aside the rocks that pinioned his body; hers the face his slowly opening eyes should see. they lowered her to his side; and, loosing the cords that bound her, she knelt beside him, whispering in his ear, "kos-soo-kah!" no sound came from the cold, set lips. the wide-open eyes stared unseeing at the sky. tee-hee-neh knew that he was dead. she did not cry aloud after the manner of indian women in their grief, but gently bound the helpless form with the deerskin cords and raised it as high as her arms could reach when the pole was drawn upward; then waited in silence until she was lifted by the willing hands above. when she found herself again at kos-soo-kah's side, she stood for an instant with eyes fixed upon the loved form, there in the cold, starless dawn of her marriage day; then with his name upon her lips she fell forward upon his breast. they drew her away, but the spirit of tee-hee-neh had followed the spirit of kos-soo-kah. the two were placed together upon the funeral pyre, and with them was burned all that had been theirs. in kos-soo-kah's hand was the bow, but the arrow could not be found. the lovers had spirited it away. in its stead they left a pointed rock lodged in the cliff between cho-look, the high fall, and le-ham-i-te, the cañon of the arrow-wood, in token of kos-soo-kah's fulfilled pledge. this rock is known to the children of ah-wah-nee as hum-moo, the lost arrow. [illustration: py-we-ack the white water "the moon floated high above cloud's rest."] py-we-ack, the white water since the peaks of sky mountains were little hills, the ah-wah-nee-chees have lived in the deep, grassy valley the white man knows as yo-sem-i-te. eastward of to-co-yah, the acorn basket rock, live the mo-nos; and for a thousand years the sachems of the ah-wah-nee-chees and the sachems of the mo-nos smoked the pipe of peace together. in the autumn when the great spirit swept through ah-wah-nee with a breath of frost, painting the leaves all scarlet and gold and brown, scattering tufts of snow-white cloud across the blue sky, and weaving a web of bluish haze among the green pine tops, the ah-wah-nee-chee braves prepared for the last great hunt of the year. the feast of the manzanita berries was past, and the feast of acorns, and after the autumn hunt came the feast of venison. as the time of the feast drew near, runners were sent across the mountains, carrying a bundle of willow sticks, or a sinew cord or leaf of dried grass tied with knots, that the mo-nos might know how many suns must cross the sky before they should go to ah-wah-nee to share the feast of venison with their neighbors. and the mo-nos gathered together baskets of piñon nuts, and obsidian arrow-heads, and strings of shells, to carry with them to give in return for acorns and chinquapin nuts and basket willow, which do not grow on the farther side of sky mountains and which the great spirit has given in plenty to the children of ah-wah-nee. at the feast the great chiefs sat side by side and the smoke of their pipes curled into a single spiral in the air. and when all were gorged with food, they danced about the fire chanting the mighty deeds of their ancestors, or sat upon the ground playing the ancient hand game, he-no-wah, staking their arrows and their bearskin robes, their wampum and their women upon the hand that held the hidden willow stick. not only in their pastimes were they friends. when the great spirit wafted a soul to the happy land in the west, the runners went again across the sky mountains and the tribes gathered together to join in the funeral dance and mingle their voices in the funeral wail. in grief, as in joy, they were friends,--for a thousand years. but the law of the mountain and the forest is not a law of peace, and it was the will of the great spirit that they should not dwell always in harmony. the ah-wah-nee-chees numbered more men than women; and from time to time bands of young braves, in the flush of primal strength, swept through the country with the ungoverned madness of a bullock herd, carrying away women from the villages they raided. when the mo-no men came to ah-wah-nee to the feasts of the manzanita berry and of acorns and of venison, they brought their women with them. these mountain women were pleasing to the eye, erect as the silver fir that grows upon the mountain side, clean-limbed and free of motion as the panther; and more than all others were they coveted by the ah-wah-nee-chees, who chafed under a friendship that thwarted desire. and the story is told that at a certain feast of venison wa-hu-lah, a mo-no maiden, stirred the fancy of a young warrior of ten-ie-ya's band. spring, the love season of nature's children, had passed the young warrior many times since he came to manhood, and he had not heeded her soft whisper. but never before had he seen wa-hu-lah, the mo-no maiden. now, through all the time of feasting, he watched eagerly for the love sign in wa-hu-lah's eyes; but he saw there only the depth and the darkness and the mystery of a pool hidden in the heart of a forest of pines, which no ray of sunlight pierces. love was dead in the heart of wa-hu-lah. on her face could still be seen dim traces of mourning, lines of pitch and ashes not yet worn away, though there had been two seasons of grass and flowers since her voice rose in the funeral wail beside the pyre of her dead lover. she had not died as the dove does when her mate is gone; but she could not forget, and as she sat among the feasters sorrow throbbed in her heart like the ceaseless whirr of a grouse's wing. the ah-wah-nee-chee warrior sought in vain for an answering sign, and when the days of feasting were over wa-hu-lah went away with her father. day and night the ah-wah-nee-chee thought of his love; the face of wa-hu-lah was ever before his eyes; and he knew that he must follow her and bring her to his lodge. but already the snow-clouds resting on the peaks of sky mountains were scattering their burden, soft and white as the down of tis-sa-ack's wings. valley and forest lay lifeless under a thick blanket, and the trails were choked with snow. the ah-wah-nee-chee's love smouldered through the winter months, with naught but the memory of wa-hu-lah's sad, unanswering eyes to feed upon. far away, in the wig-wam of her father, wa-hu-lah nursed her grief. at last spring came, with soft, straying winds that breathe of new life. birds sang in the trees as they built their nests; squirrels chattered softly among the rocks; too-loo-lo-we-ack, the rushing water, babbled of the joys of summer; and yo-wi-we dashed from the heights to carry the message of love brought by the sun from the southland to all the valley. while yet the trails were heavy with melting snows, the ah-wah-nee-chee warrior stole away from his lodge one night and set his face toward the rising sun, yonder to the eastward of to-co-yah; and ere the day god had wrapped himself in his flaming cloud blanket in the far-off west, the ah-wah-nee-chee was smoking the peace pipe with the chief of the mo-nos, wa-hu-lah's father. [illustration: "the white spirits of the water threw themselves around the maiden and hid her in a shroud of spray."] before the sun again strode the bald peaks of the sky mountains, he was gone; and when the women came forth to make ready the morning meal, the old chief saw that wa-hu-lah was not among them; and he knew that the spirit of the peace pipe had been violated. wa-hu-lah made no struggle when she found herself borne along in the arms of her captor. her heart beat like the heart of a hunted thing that feels the hunter near and cover far away, but her face showed no sign. it was useless to resist; but had the ah-wah-nee-chee looked into the still, sad depths of her eyes, he would have seen there a glittering spark, the fire of a woman's lasting hate. along the heavy trail he toiled, and not until he reached the kinder paths that spring had cleared did he let wa-hu-lah's feet rest upon the ground. then she walked before him, silent, submissive, but with the spark still glowing in her downcast eyes. silent, submissive, she followed as he led the way to the place he had prepared for her,--a woodland bower, pine carpeted, roofed with boughs of oak and alder, the couch of branches spread with deerskin. silent, submissive, she ate of the food he brought her, fresh bear meat and acorn bread, and grass roots fattened by the melting snows. silent still, but with submission changed to defiant purpose, she watched him go away and take his place among the braves of his tribe who ate as the women prepared their food. hunger possessed him and he gave no thought to caution. at another time his quick ear might have caught the sound of twigs snapping under the pressure of a moccasined foot; now it heard only the hiss of meat thrown upon live coals. the moon floated high above cloud's rest and the valley was full of light, yet none saw the dark figure that crept stealthily, warily, into the shadow of the crouching chaparral, keeping with the wind that blew from, not toward, the camp-fire. once only wa-hu-lah paused, and turned to see that she was not discovered; and from her eyes shot one swift look that would have killed, could looks deal death. then she sped forward on the trail that led from ah-wah-nee, with its blossoming dogwood and azalea, its buckthorn and willow, to the snows of the higher mountains, the home of her people. swiftly she ran, frightened by the night shapes that danced before her in the path, nor daring to slacken her pace or give a backward glance. but scarce had she passed through the spray thrown across the trail by py-we-ack, the white water, when she heard wild shouts rising from the half-darkness below, shouts that told her the ah-wah-nee-chees knew that she was gone, had started in pursuit. behind her on the trail her footprints lay naked on the yielding earth, and she knew that here in ah-wah-nee the men of ten-ie-ya's band knew every path that she might choose, every tree and rock where she might find a hiding-place. already the race was won. nearer they came, her ah-wah-nee-chee captor and a score of braves who joined with boisterous shouts this chase that had no need of cunning since for a weak prey there was no escape. among the trees they caught uncertain glimpses of the fleeing figure, but at last wa-hu-lah bounded into a clear, broad stretch of moonlight where the trees fall back to let the river widen to a calmer course after its reckless plunge from the cliff above. the pool that shines emerald bright by day lay still and black with the pale gold moon upon its breast. straight for its bank wa-hu-lah ran, and as her foot touched the rocky ledge, her pursuers sprang with a cry of triumph into the open. not a moment did the maiden dare to lose. stooping, she unloosed the canoe that floated in the shadow of the ledge, a canoe used by the ah-wah-nee-chees in crossing the emerald pool. stepping into the shallow bark, wa-hu-lah pushed it from the shore, and with quick strokes drove it toward the middle of the stream, where she knew the water ran swift and deep and strong. like some strange night bird the canoe skimmed the surface of the pool, the girl erect, defiant, her long black hair tossing, winglike, on the wind. drawn by the current it glided on, dark and silent, toward py-we-ack, where the water with a second leap dashes itself to death upon the rocks. along the shelving bank the baffled ah-wah-nee-chee ran, but swifter ran the dark and silent figure in the stream; and even as the young chief plunged into the icy water in one last effort to reclaim his stolen bride, the boat slipped over the edge of the cliff and went to pieces on the rocks, where the white spirits of the water threw themselves around the maiden and hid her in a shroud of spray. thus wa-hu-lah proved herself faithful to her mo-no lover, and the ah-wah-nee-chee was cheated of his bride. [illustration: tu-tock-ah-nu-lah and tis-sa-ack "along the edge of the river and over the meadows * * one can now find tiny white violets."] tu-tock-ah-nu-lah and tis-sa-ack since the world was young tu-tock-ah-nu-lah, the rock chief, had guarded ah-wah-nee, the home of the children of the sun. for his watch-tower he chose a storm-tried rock on the northern wall of the valley, and from this far height defied all the powers of evil. in the spring he besought the great spirit to send rain that the wild corn might hang heavy with tasseling grain, the berries cluster thick on the branches of the manzanita, and the fish abound in the waters of the river. in the summer he fattened the bear and deer, and in the autumn he wandered through the mountains driving them from their haunts that the hunter might not return empty-handed from the chase. the smoke of his pipe spread like a soft haze through the air, sheltering the women from the sun when they went forth to gather acorns and wood for winter. his form was like a spear, straight and strong; and he reared his head high above the clouds. in his arm was the strength of an untamed grizzly; and his voice was like the sound of cho-look, the great fall that thunders down from the north, starting deep echoes from crag and gorge. when the sunlight danced upon the water, the ah-wah-nee-chees were happy, for they knew that tu-tock-ah-nu-lah smiled; when the sky was overcast, they trembled, fearful of his frown; when his sighs swept mournfully through the pines, they, too, were sad. the children of ah-wah-nee loved the mighty rock chief who dwelt above them in his lonely lodge. one morning, as his midnight watch drew to a close and the first pale glint of day shone on his forehead, he heard a soft voice whisper, "tu-tock-ah-nu-lah!" his eyes burned with the passion fire as a fair vision rose before him, yonder on the granite dome of the southern wall. it was the form of a maiden, not of the dark tribe he loved and guarded, but fairer than any he had seen or known in dreams. her face had the rosy flush of dawn, her eyes took their color from the morning sky, and her hair was like strands of golden sunlight. her voice was low as a dove call when she whispered tu-tock-ah-nu-lah's name. for a moment she lingered, smiling; but even as the rock chief leaped from his tower in answer to her call, she glided across the rounded dome and faded from his sight, leaving her throne shrouded in a snowy cloud. piqued by the mystery of her flight, tu-tock-ah-nu-lah followed the sound of her rustling garments, wandering all day over the mountains; but the pine trees wove a blue mist about her, hiding her from his eyes. not until he returned to his citadel at night did he see her face again. then for an instant she appeared upon her throne, her pale brow tinged with the rose glow of the sun; and he knew that she was tis-sa-ack, the goddess of the valley, who shared with him the loving care of the ah-wah-nee-chees. every morning now at dawn tu-tock-ah-nu-lah left his tower and sped across the valley to meet the lovely goddess of his heart's desire. through the day he hovered near her, gazing upon the fair form, always half hidden by billowing cloud, trying to read an answering love in her wide blue eyes. but never again did he hear the voice that came to him across the valley in the stillness of that one gray dawn. tu-tock-ah-nu-lah's passion grew day by day, as summer ripens the fruits of springtime budding; but tis-sa-ack had no joy in his love. her heart was heavy with a great sorrow, for she saw that the rock chief was blind to the needs of his people, that he had forsaken those who looked to him for life. the sun burned his way through the sky, and no rains fell to cool the aching earth. tu-tock-ah-nu-lah paid no heed to the withering leaves of the wild corn, the shrunken streams from which the fisherman turned with empty nets, the shriveling acorns that fell worthless to the ground. he neither knew nor cared that the hunter, after weary days in the mountains, came to his lodge at night with arrows unused, to meet the anxious glance of starving women and hear the wailing cry of hungry children. the ah-wah-nee-chees called upon the rock chief in vain. he did not hear their cries; he thought only of his love. the harvest moon looked down into the valley and saw the dark form of famine skulking there. then it was that tis-sa-ack's love was swept away by an overwhelming pity; and as she lay upon her couch she cried out to the great spirit to send the rain-clouds that bear life to all things of the earth. and even as she prayed, there came an answer to her prayer. with a voice of thunder the great spirit gave commands to the spirits of the air. with a barbed shaft of lightning he rent the granite dome where tis-sa-ack prayed; and from the cleft rock came a rush of water that filled the dry basin of wai-ack, the mirror lake, and sent a wandering stream through the thirsty fields. now the withered corn-stalks raised their drooping heads, flowers nodded among the waving grasses and offered their lips to the wild bees, and the acorns swelled with sap that crept upward from reviving roots. the women went joyously into the fields to gather the harvest, and the men no longer returned with empty pouches from the forest or fished by the riverside in vain. the chief of the ah-wah-nee-chees ordered a great feast, and all faces were turned in gratitude to the dome where tis-sa-ack dwelt. but tis-sa-ack was gone. she had sacrificed her love, her life, for the children of ah-wah-nee. through her they had suffered; through her their sufferings had ceased; and that all might hold her memory dear she left them the lake, the river and a fragment of her throne. upon the bosom of ke-koo-too-yem, the sleeping water, her spirit rests, wandering sometimes of a summer evening to the half dome, there to linger for a moment as the sun slips over the western wall of the valley. [illustration: "her spirit, * * wandering * * to the half dome, there to linger for a moment."] as she flew away a soft down from her wings fell upon the earth; and where it fell, along the edge of the river and over the meadows stretching toward tu-tock-ah-nu-lah's watch-tower, one can now find tiny white violets, whose fragrance is the secret of a loving spirit, a breath of happiness to all who gather them. when tu-tock-ah-nu-lah found that tis-sa-ack was gone, a great sadness came upon him. day and night his sighs swept through the pine trees. he puffed gloomily at his pipe until his tower was hidden in a cloud of smoke. at last, thinking to follow and find his lost love, he went away; and lest he be forgotten, he carved with his hunting-knife the outlines of his face upon the wall of his fortress, which the white man has named el capitan. as he turned sadly from his lodge, tu-tock-ah-nu-lah perceived that the air was filled with a rare and subtle perfume, blowing from a stretch of meadow fringed with tamarack. thinking it the breath of tis-sa-ack, he followed on and on, forgetful of the arts of e-ee-ke-no, who dwells among the water-lilies in the lake which the three brothers hold in the hollow of their hands. e-ee-ke-no had long loved the rock chief, but tu-tock-ah-nu-lah scorned her unsought love, which turned through jealousy to bitter hate. now as she saw him go away in search of tis-sa-ack, she threw around him the mystic fragrance of the water-lily, which, gentle as a caress, is deadly to all who win the hatred of e-ee-ke-no. on and on across the meadow fringed with tamarack, among the wild flowers and the waving grasses, tu-tock-ah-nu-lah wandered, following blindly the transformed spirit of e-ee-ke-no until he disappeared forever in the depths of the lake. [illustration: kom-po-pai-ses leaping frog rocks "forever and forever the three brothers sit looking over each other's shoulders from the north wall of ah-wah-nee."] kom-po-pai-ses, leaping frog rocks forever and forever the three brothers sit looking over each other's shoulders from the north wall of ah-wah-nee. the indians likened these peaks to frogs sitting back upon their haunches ready to leap, and called them kom-po-pai-ses, the leaping frog rocks. this the white man did not know when he named them the three brothers. the story of the three brothers is history, not tradition. it has to do with the coming of the white man to ah-wah-nee, and the downfall of ten-ie-ya, the last chief of the ah-wah-nee-chees. across the plains that billow away toward the sea, ten-ie-ya watched the approach of the white stranger, having always in mind the words of the old man who was his counselor when he left the land of his mo-no mother and returned to ah-wah-nee to rule over his father's people. the patriarch had heard the call of the great spirit, bidding him to the happy land of the west, and had told ten-ie-ya many things. this, last of all: "obey my word, o ten-ie-ya, and your people shall be many as the blades of grass, and none shall dare to bring war into ah-wah-nee. but look you ever, my son, against the white horsemen of the great plains beyond; for once they have crossed the western mountains, your tribe will scatter as the dust before a desert wind, and never come together again. guard well your stronghold, o ten-ie-ya, lest you be the last of the great chiefs of ah-wah-nee." the faded eyes had the light that comes when the call of the great spirit sounds very near, and the feeble hand of the patriarch trembled as he raised his pipe above his head, and said: "great spirit, i pray be good to my son, the chief of the ah-wah-nee-chees. toward the pines, north, cold wind treat him kindly; toward the rising sun, east, great sun shine upon his lodge in the early morning; toward the place where the sun goes in winter, south, bless my son; toward the land of the setting sun, west, waft on the breezes a peaceful sleep. and, lowering my pipe, i say, kind mother earth, when you receive my son into your warm bosom, hold him gently. let the howl of the coyote, the roaring of the bear and the mountain-lion, and the sound of winds swaying the tops of the pine trees, be to him a sweet lullaby." because of these last words of the dying seer, ten-ie-ya guarded his mountain retreat as a she-bear guards the refuge of her young. with vague foreboding he saw the white horsemen coming nearer. they took the land that the great spirit had made for the people of his race. they burrowed into it like moles, and washed the sands of its rivers, searching for something yellow and shining that the indian neither knew was there nor cared to know. they grazed their horses and their cattle upon the broad stretches that had been the indian's hunting-ground since time began. they even went so far, these pale-faced strangers, as to steal indian women for their wives. and always they made their camps nearer and nearer to ah-wah-nee. while the vigor of youth remained, ten-ie-ya did not fear these men of an alien race. he only hated them. with his band of lawless grizzlies he stole forth in the night and drove away their horses to kill for food; and as they feasted, drunk with the taste of warm blood, their spirits were made bold, and the deep gorge rang with shouts of defiance. but ten-ie-ya grew old, and the white horsemen of the plains, now strong in number, were at the very walls of ah-wah-nee. the words of the dying patriarch were ever in his ears, and he knew that the evil day was come. [illustration: "toward the pines, north, cold wind treat him kindly."] at last the white men climbed the western mountains, offering gifts in the name of the great father, their chief; and when they went away they led ten-ie-ya captive to their camp. the young braves fled from ah-wah-nee, across to-co-yah, the north dome, to the home of the mo-nos. it was well that ten-ie-ya should go to the plains, they said; but they were young and could find plenty in the mountains; they would not go to be herded like horses in the white man's camp. though he appeared to yield, the spirit of ten-ie-ya was not broken. like a wild beast in captivity, he chafed under restraint. with the cunning of his race, he watched his chance; and when it came, he returned to his stronghold in the sky mountains, bearing in his heart a fiercer hate for the white man, a hate made keener by defeat, a hate that burned for revenge. but an evil spell seemed cast upon the children of ah-wah-nee. they were scattered, and they did not rally round their chief. again the white horsemen climbed the western mountains, this time without gifts. but day and night signal fires had burned upon the mountain tops; and when the messengers of the great father entered ah-wah-nee they found the valley deserted, save for five dark figures that darted like shadows from tree to rock at the base of a jagged spur of the northern wall. feeling themselves secure because of the swollen river that lay between, the five scouts came into the open when discovered, and mocked the strangers; then disappeared up the side of a cliff so straight and pathless that no white man could follow. by fair promises carried to them by an indian guide they were induced to come into camp, and three of them were found to be sons of ten-ie-ya. it does not speak for the faith of white men that one of the brothers was killed while held as hostage until the aged chief should come in and deliver himself to the messengers of the great father; and that only an uncertain aim saved another who tried to escape through the cañon of the arrow-wood, where his father was hiding. when he saw it was useless to resist further these fearless, faithless horsemen of the plains, who had stolen his lands and his women, who would not let him live in peace in his mountains, ten-ie-ya came down from le-ham-i-te, the cañon of the arrow-wood, by a trail that led into the valley through the branches of a giant oak. the first sight that met the gaze of the twice-conquered chieftain was the dead body of his youngest son. he spoke no word, but lines of sorrow appeared in the hard, old face; and secretly, in the heart of the night, he had the young chief's body carried away--none knew where. once more he tried for his liberty; once more was captured. then in a passion of grief and rage, he turned his bare breast to his captors, and cried: "kill me, white chief, as you have killed my son, as you would kill all my people if they would but come to you. you have brought sorrow to my heart. for me the sun shines no more. kill me, white chief, and when i am dead i will call my people, that they shall come and avenge the death of their chief and his son. my spirit will follow your footsteps forever. i will not leave the spirit world, you will not see me, but i will follow you where you go and you will know it is the spirit of the old chief, and you will fear me and grow cold. this is the message of the great spirit." but ten-ie-ya's hour was not yet come. he was to die, for an act of treachery, at the hands of the mo-nos, his mother's people. even so, the prophecy of the seer was fulfilled, for the white horsemen of the plains had crossed the western mountains, the tribe was scattered, never to come together again, and ten-ie-ya was the last great chief of the ah-wah-nee-chees. because his three sons were captured at its base, the triple peak in the northern wall was given the name three brothers. this edition of yosemite legends was done for paul elder and company at the tomoyé press, san francisco, in the year nineteen hundred and four [illustration] transcriber's note this book uses a double asterisk, * *, as an ellipsis. captions for full-page illustrations originally appeared on their own page, with the illustration on a separate page. the captions have been moved to follow the illustration to which they relate. the frontispiece has been moved to follow the title page. other illustrations have been moved where necessary so that they are not in the middle of a paragraph. [illustration: _photograph by taber_.] [signature: galen clark] indians of the yosemite valley and vicinity their history, customs and traditions by galen clark author of "big trees of california," discoverer of the mariposa grove of big trees, and for many years guardian of the yosemite valley. with an appendix of useful information for yosemite visitors illustrated by chris. jorgensen and from photographs yosemite valley, california galen clark 1907 copyright 1904, by galen clark to my friend charles howard burnett contents introduction and sketch of the author ix chapter i. early history 1 ii. effects of the war 14 iii. customs and characteristics 21 iv. sources of food supply 31 v. religious ceremonies and beliefs 49 vi. native industries 67 vii. myths and legends 76 appendix: hints to yosemite visitors 101 official table of distances and livery charges 105 supplementary table of distances 107 interpretation of indian names 107 tables of altitudes 110 names of indian numerals 111 indian words in common use 111 tribes placed on reservations in 1850-51 112 list of illustrations cover design mrs. jorgensen frontispiece, galen clark taber page yosemite falls, fiske 3 an indian dancer, boysen 8 three brothers, foley 13 captain paul, foley 17 yosemite mother and papoose, boysen 20 indian o´-chum, jorgensen 25 yosemite maiden in native dress, jorgensen 27 a yosemite hunter, jorgensen 32 indian sweat house, jorgensen 34 chuck´-ah, mrs. jorgensen 39 ho´-yas and me-tats´, fiske 42 a wood gatherer, fiske 47 a young yosemite, dove 53 lena and virgil, boysen 55 old kalapine, boysen 62 yosemite basketry, boysen 66 mrs. jorgensen's baskets 68 indian bead work, fiske 70 a basket maker, boysen 73 mary, boysen 79 half dome, foley 84 a burden bearer, fiske 88 el capitan, foley 91 north dome, foley 93 bridal veil, fall, fiske 97 introduction and sketch of the author galen clark, the author of this little volume, is one of the notable characters of california, and the one best fitted to record the customs and traditions of the yosemite indians, but it was only after much persuasion that his friends succeeded in inducing him to write the history of these interesting people, with whom he has been in close communication for half a century. the indians of the yosemite are fast passing away. only a handful now remain of the powerful tribes that once gathered in the valley and considered it an absolute stronghold against their white enemies. even in their diminished numbers and their comparatively civilized condition, they are still a source of great interest to all visitors, and it has been suggested many times that their history, customs and legends should be put in permanent and convenient form, before they are entirely lost. many tales and histories of the california indians have been written by soldiers and pioneers, but mr. clark has told the story of these people from their own standpoint, and with a sympathetic understanding of their character. this fresh point of view gives double interest to his narrative. galen clark comes of a notable family; his english ancestors came to the state of massachusetts in the seventeenth century, but he is a native of the town of dublin, cheshire county, new hampshire, born on the 28th day of march, 1814, and is consequently nearly ninety years of age, but still alert and active in mind and body. he attended school in his early youth during the winter months, and worked on a farm during the summer, leading nearly the same life which was followed by so many others who afterwards became famous in our country's history. later in life he learned chair-making and painting, an occupation which he followed for some years, when he removed to philadelphia and subsequently to new york city. whilst residing in new york, in 1853, he resolved, after mature reflection, to visit the new eldorado. his attention was first attracted to this state by visiting the celebrated crystal palace in new york, where was then on exhibition quantities of gold dust which had been sent or brought east by successful miners. mr. clark left new york for california in october, 1853, coming via the isthmus of panama, and in due time reached his destination. in 1854 he went to mariposa county, attracted thither by the wonderful accounts of the gold discoveries, and the marvelous stories he had heard of the grandeur and beauty of the yosemite valley and the surrounding mountains. upon his first arrival in mariposa, he engaged in mining, and was also employed to assist in surveying government land on the west side of the san joaquin valley, and canals for mining purposes, some of which passed through the celebrated "mariposa grant," the subject of prolonged and bitter litigation, both in this country and in europe. he probably knows more about the actual facts concerning the mariposa grant than any one now living, and it is to be hoped that some day he may overcome his natural repugnance to notoriety, and give to the public the benefit of his knowledge. in the year 1855 mr. clark made his first trip into the yosemite valley with a party made up in mariposa and bear valley. returning to mariposa, he resumed his old occupation of surveying and mining, and, whilst so engaged, by reason of exposure, had a serious attack of lung trouble, resulting in severe hemorrhages which threatened to end his life. he then removed, in april, 1857, to the south fork of the merced river, and built a log cabin in one of the most beautiful of our mountain valleys, on the spot where wawona now stands. he soon recovered his health entirely, and, though constantly exposed to the winter storms and snows, has never had a recurrence of his malady. wawona is twenty-six miles from yosemite, and at that time became known as clark's station, being on the trail leading from mariposa to the valley, and a noted stopping place for travelers. this trail, as well as one from coulterville, was completed to the valley in 1857, and the trip to yosemite then involved a stage ride of ninety-two miles, and a journey of sixty miles more on horseback. in 1874 and 1875 the three present stage roads were constructed through to the valley. all travelers by the raymond route will remember wawona and the surroundings; the peaceful valley, the swift-flowing merced, and the surrounding peaks and mountains, almost equaling in grandeur the famous yosemite itself. in the early days this locality was annually visited by several bands of indians from the chowchilla and fresno rivers. the indian name for the place was pal-lah´-chun. whilst residing there mr. clark was in constant contact with these visiting tribes; he obtained their confidence, and retains it to this day. whilst on a hunting trip, in the summer of 1857, mr. clark discovered and made known to the public the famous big tree grove, now known all over the world as the "mariposa grove of big trees," belonging to the state of california. on this expedition he did not follow the route now traveled, but came upon the grove at the upper end, near the place where the road to wawona point now branches off from the main drive. the spot where he caught his first view of the big trees has been appropriately marked, and can be seen from the stage road. so impressed was mr. clark with the importance of his discovery, that he opened up a good horse trail from wawona to the trees, and shortly afterwards built a log cabin in the grove, for the comfort and convenience of visitors in bad or stormy weather. this cabin became known as "galen's hospice." in the year 1864 the congress of the united states passed an act, which was approved in june of the same year, granting to the state of california the "yosemite valley" and the "mariposa grove of big trees." this grant was made upon certain conditions, which were complied with by the state, and a commission was appointed by governor low to manage and govern the valley and the big tree grove. galen clark was, of course, selected as one of the commissioners. he was subsequently appointed guardian of the valley, and under his administration many needed improvements were made and others suggested. bridges were built, roads constructed on the floor of the valley, and trails laid out and finished to various points of interest overlooking the valley itself. in a word, the guardian did everything possible with the limited means at his disposal. after serving twenty-four years, mr. clark voluntarily retired from the position of guardian, carrying with him the respect and admiration of every member of the commission, of all the residents of the valley, and of every visitor who enjoyed the pleasure of his personal acquaintance. as showing the opinion of those with whom mr. clark was intimately and officially associated for so long a time, the following resolutions passed by the board of commissioners upon his voluntary retirement from the office of guardian, are herein given: whereas, galen clark has for a long number of years been closely identified with yosemite valley, and has for a considerable portion of that time been its guardian; and whereas, he has now, by his own choice and will, relinquished the trust confided in him and retired into private life; and whereas, his faithful and eminent services as guardian, his constant efforts to preserve, protect and enhance the beauties of yosemite; his dignified, kindly and courteous demeanor to all who have come to see and enjoy its wonders, and his upright and noble life, deserve from us a fitting recognition and memorial; now, therefore, be it resolved, that the cordial assurance of the appreciation by this commission of the efforts and labors of galen clark, as guardian of yosemite, in its behalf, be tendered and expressed to him. that we recognize in him a faithful, efficient and worthy citizen and officer of this commission and of the state; that he will be followed into his retirement by the sincerest and best wishes of this commission, individually and as a body, for continued long life and constant happiness. the subject of this sketch is one of the most modest of men; but perfectly self-reliant, and always actively engaged in some useful work. he has resided in the valley for more than twenty summers, and has also been a resident during many winters, and his descriptions of the valley, when wrapped in snow and ice, are intensely interesting. though always ready to give information, he is naturally reticent, and never forces his stories or reminiscences upon visitors; indeed it requires some persuasion to hear him talk about himself at all. for some years mr. clark was postmaster of yosemite; and he has made many trips on foot, both in winter and summer, in and out of the valley. in september, 1903, this writer made a trip through the high sierras from yosemite, and, upon reaching the top of the valley mr. clark was met coming down the trail, having in charge a party of his friends, amongst whom was a lady with her two small children. this was at a point 2700 feet above the floor of the valley, which is itself 4000 feet above the level of the sea. needless to say, he is perfectly familiar with all the mountain trails, and, notwithstanding his great age, he easily makes long trips on foot and horseback which would fatigue a much younger man. mr. clark is thoroughly familiar with the flora, fauna and geology of the valley and its surroundings. his knowledge of botany is particularly accurate, a knowledge gleaned partly from books, but mainly from close personal observation, the best possible teacher. his long residence in yosemite has made him familiar with every spot, his love for the valley is deep and strong, and when he departs this life his remains will rest close to the yosemite falls, in the little grave yard where other pioneers are buried. with his own hands he has dug his grave, and quarried his own tombstone from one of the massive blocks of granite found in the immediate neighborhood. his monument now rests in his grave, and when it is removed to receive his remains, will be used to mark his last resting place. his grave is surrounded by a neat fence, and trees, shrubs and vines, which he has himself planted, grow around in great profusion. in each corner of the lot is a young _sequoia_. may it be many years before he is called to occupy his last earthly tenement. w.w. foote. _san francisco, february, 1904_. indians of the yosemite indians of the yosemite chapter one. early history. during the past few years a rapidly growing interest in the native indians has been manifested by a large majority of visitors to the yosemite valley. they have evinced a great desire to see them in their rudely constructed summer camps, and to purchase some articles of their artistic basket and bead work, to take away as highly prized souvenirs. they are also anxious to learn something of their former modes of life, habits and domestic industries, before their original tribal relations were ruthlessly broken up by the sudden advent of the white population of gold miners and others in 1850, and the subsequent war, in which the indians were defeated, and, as a result, nearly exterminated. origin of the yosemite indians. according to statements made by teneiya _(ten-eye´-ya)_ [see footnote] chief of the yosemites, to dr. l.h. bunnell, and published by him in his book on the "discovery of the yosemite", the original indian name of the valley was ah-wah´-nee, which has been translated as "deep grassy valley", and the indians living there were called ah-wah-nee´-chees, which signified "dwellers in ah-wah´-nee." [footnote: the indian names are usually pronounced exactly as spelled, with each syllable distinctly sounded, and the principal accent on the penult, as in ah-wah´-nee, or the antepenult, as in yo-sem´-i-te. where doubt might exist, the accent will be indicated, or the pronunciation given in parenthesis.] [transcriber's note: the remaining footnotes in the original text are moved, in the present version, into the line of text and are marked by square brackets, thus: ah-wah´-nee [yosemite valley].] many years ago, the old chief said, the ah-wah-nee´-chees had been a large and powerful tribe, but by reason of wars and a fatal black sickness, nearly all had been destroyed, and the survivors of the band fled from the valley and joined other tribes. [illustration: _photograph by fiske_. yosemite falls (cho´-lack), 2,634 feet. near the foot of these falls was located the village of ah-wah´-nee, the indian capital and residence of chief teneiya. there were eight other villages in the valley.] for years afterwards this locality was uninhabited, but finally teneiya, who claimed to be descended from an ah-wah-nee´-chee chief, left the mo´nos, where he had born and brought up, and, gathering of his father's old tribe around him, visited the valley and claimed it as the birthright of his people. he then became the founder of a new tribe or band, which received the name "yo-sem´-i-te." this word signifies a full-grown grizzly bear, and teneiya said that the name had been given to his band because they occupied the mountains and valley which were the favorite resort of the grizzly bears, and his people were expert in killing them; that his tribe had adopted the name because those who had bestowed it were afraid of the grizzlies, and also feared his band. the yosemites were perhaps the most warlike of any of the tribes in this part of the sierra nevada mountains, who were, as a rule, a peaceful people, dividing the territory among them, and indulging in few controversies. in fact, these indians in general were less belligerent and warlike than any others on the pacific coast. when difficulties arose, they were usually settled peacefully by arbitration, in a grand council of the chiefs and head men of the tribes involved, without resorting to open hostilities. other tribes. other bands of indians in the vicinity of the yosemite valley were the po-ho-nee´-chees who lived near the headwaters of the po-ho´-no or bridal veil creek in summer, and on the south fork of the merced´ river in winter, about twelve miles below wawo´na; the po-to-en´-cies, who lived on the merced river; wil-tuc-um´-nees, tuol´-unme river; noot´-choos and chow-chil´-las, chowchilla valley; ho-na´-ches and me´-woos, fresno river and vicinity; and chook-chan´-ces, san joaquin river and vicinity. these tribes, including the yosemites, were all somewhat affiliated by common ancestry or by intermarriage, and were similar in their general characteristics and customs. they were all called by the early california settlers, "digger indians," as a term of derision, on account of their not being good fighters, and from their practice of digging the tuberous roots of certain plants, for food. indian war of 1851. dr. bunnell, in his book already referred to, has given the soldiers' and white men's account of the cause of the indian war of 1851, but a statement of the grievances on the part of the indians, which caused the uniting of all the different tribes in the mining region adjacent to yosemite, in an attempt to drive the white invaders from their country, has never been published, and a brief account of these grievances may be interesting. aggressions by the white settlers. the first parties of prospecting miners were welcomed by the indians with their usual friendliness and hospitality toward strangers--a universal characteristic of these tribes,--and the mining for gold was watched with great interest. they soon learned the value of the gold dust, and some of them engaged in mining, and exchanged their gold at the trading stations for blankets and fancy trinkets, at an enormous profit to the traders, and peace and good feeling prevailed for a short time. the report of the rich gold "diggin's" on the waters of the tuolumne, merced, mariposa, chowchilla, and fresno rivers, soon spread, and miners by thousands came and took possession of the whole country, paying no regard to the natural rights or wishes of the indians. some of the indian chiefs made the proposition that if the miners would give them some of the gold which they found in their part of the country, they might stay and work. this offer was not listened to by the miners, and a large majority of the white invaders treated the natives as though they had no rights whatever to be respected. in some instances, where indians had found and were working good mining claims, they were forcibly driven away by white miners, who took possession of their claims and worked them. moreover, the indians saw that their main sources of food supply were being rapidly destroyed. the oak trees, which produced the acorns--one of their staple articles of food,--were being cut down and burned by miners and others in clearing up land for cultivation, and the deer and other food game were being rapidly killed off or driven from the locality. [illustration: _copyrighted photograph by boysen_. an indian dancer. chow-chil-la indian in full war-dance costume.] in the "early days," before california was admitted as a free state into the union, it was reported, and was probably true, that some of the immigrants from the slave-holding states took indians and made slaves of them in working their mining claims. it was no uncommon event for the sanctity of their homes and families to be invaded by some of the "baser sort," and young women taken, willing or not, for servants and wives. retaliation. in retaliation, and as some compensation for these many grievous outrages upon their natural inalienable rights of domain and property, and their native customs, the indians stole horses and mules from the white settlers, and killed them for food for their families, who, in many instances, were in a condition of starvation. finally the chiefs and leading men of all the tribes involved met in a grand council, and resolved to combine their warrior forces in one great effort to drive all their white enemies from the country, before they became more numerous and formidable. beginning of hostilities. to prepare for this struggle for existence, they made raids upon some of the principal trading posts in the mining sections, killed those in charge, took all the blankets, clothing and provisions they could carry away, and fled to the mountains, where they were soon pursued by the soldiers and volunteer citizens, and a spirited battle was fought without any decisive advantage to either side. the breaking out of actual hostilities created great excitement among the whites, and an urgent call was made upon the governor of the state for a military force to meet the emergency, and protect the settlers--a force strong enough to thoroughly subdue the indians, and remove all of them to reservations to be selected by the united states indian commissioners for that purpose. meantime the governor and the commissioners, who had then arrived, were receiving numerous communications, many of them from persons in high official positions, earnestly urging a more humane and just policy, averring that the indians had real cause for complaint, that they had been "more sinned against than sinning" since the settling of california by the whites, and that they were justly entitled to protection by the government and compensation for the spoliations and grievances they had suffered. these protests doubtless had some influence in delaying hostile measures, and in the inauguration of efforts to induce the indians to come in and treat with the commissioners, envoys being sent out to assure them of fair treatment and personal safety. many of the indians accepted these offers, and, as the different tribes surrendered, they were taken to the two reservations which the commissioners had established for them on the fresno river, the principal one being a few miles above the place where the town of madera is now located. as before stated, these indians were not a warlike people. their only weapons were their bows and arrows, and these they soon found nearly useless in defending themselves at long range against soldiers armed with rifles. moreover, their stock of provisions was so limited that they either had to surrender or starve. discovery of yosemite valley. the yosemites and one or two other bands of indians had refused to surrender, and had retreated to their mountain strongholds, where they proposed to make a last determined resistance. active preparations were accordingly made by the state authorities to follow them, and either capture or exterminate all the tribes involved. for this purpose a body of state volunteers, known as the mariposa battalion, was organized, under the command of major james d. savage, to pursue these tribes into the mountains; and, after many long marches and some fighting, the indians were all defeated, captured, and, with their women and children, put upon the reservations under strong military guard. it was during this campaign that major savage and his men discovered the yosemite valley, about the 21st of march, 1851, while in pursuit of the yosemites, under old chief teneiya, for whom lake teneiya and teneiya canyon have appropriately been named. [illustration: _photograph by foley._ three brothers (waw-haw´-kee), 3,900 feet. named by the soldiers who discovered the valley, to commemorate the capture of three sons of teneiya near this place. the indian name means "falling rocks."] chapter two. effects of the war. the yosemites and all of the other tribes named in the previous chapter were put upon the fresno reservation. major savage, who had been the leading figure in the war against the indians, was perhaps their best friend while in captivity, and finally lost his life in a personal quarrel, while resenting a wrong which had been committed against them. the tribes from south of the san joaquin river, who were also conquered in 1851, were put upon the kings river and tejon (_tay-hone´_) reservations. life on the reservations. ample food supplies, blankets, clothing and cheap fancy articles were furnished by the government for the subsistence, comfort and pleasure of the indians on the reservations, and for a short time they seemed to be contented, and to enjoy the novelty of their new mode of life. the young, able-bodied men were put to work assisting in clearing, fencing and cultivating fields for hay and vegetables, and thus they were partially self-supporting. a large portion of them, however, soon began to tire of the restraints imposed, and longed for their former condition of freedom, and many of them sickened and died. old teneiya, chief of the "grizzlies," was particularly affected by the change in his surroundings, and by the humiliation of defeat. he suffered keenly from the hot weather of the plains, after his free life in the mountains, and begged to be allowed to return to his old home, promising not to disturb the white settlers in any way, a pledge which he did not break. death of teneiya. teneiya was finally allowed to depart, with his family, after having been on the reservation only a few months, and some of his old followers afterwards stole away and joined him. with this remnant of his band he returned to the yosemite, but not long afterwards they were set upon by the monos, a tribe from the eastern side of the sierras, with whom they had quarreled, and the old chief and many of his warriors were killed. it was perhaps fitting that he should meet his death in the valley which he loved, and which he had so long defended against his enemies. restored to liberty. in 1855, after four years of confinement on the reservations, an agreement was made with the indian commissioners, by the head men of the tribes, that if their people were again allowed their freedom, they would forever remain in peace with the white settlers, and try and support themselves free of expense to the government. they were soon permitted to leave, and have ever since faithfully kept their promise. most of them went back to the vicinity of their old homes, and made temporary settlements on unoccupied government land, as many of their old village sites were now in possession of white settlers. as there was a very large crop of acorns that season, they gathered an abundant supply for winter use, and, with what was given to them in the way of food and clothing by some of the white settlers, they managed to get through the winter fairly well. [illustration: _photograph by foley_. captain paul. one of the characters of the valley. supposed to be 105 years old, and a survivor of teneiya's band.] hardship and suffering. their four years' residence on the reservations, however, had been more of a school in the vices of the whites than one of a higher education. they became demoralized socially, addicted to many bad habits, and left the reservations in worse condition than when they were taken there. their old tribal relations and customs were nearly broken up, though they still had their head men to whom they looked for counsel in all important matters. as the country became more settled, much of their main food supply, the acorns, was consumed by the domestic animals of the ranchers, and their mode of living became more precarious and transitory, and many of them were, at times, in a condition near to starvation. in these straitened and desperate circumstances, many of their young women were used as commercial property, and peddled out to the mining camps and gambling saloons for money to buy food, clothing or whisky, this latter article being obtained through the aid of some white person, in violation of law. their miserable, squalid condition of living opened the way for diseases of a malignant character, which their medicine men could not cure, and their numbers were rapidly reduced by death. at the present time there are not in existence a half-dozen of the old yosemites who were living, even as children, when the valley was first discovered in 1851; and many of the other tribes have been correspondingly reduced. [illustration: _photograph by boysen._ yosemite mother and papoose. the baby basket is carried on the back, like all burdens, and supported by a band across the forehead.] chapter three. customs and characteristics. as stated in a previous chapter, all of the indian tribes occupying the region in the vicinity of the yosemite valley were more or less affiliated by blood and intermarriage and resembled each other in their customs, characteristics and religious beliefs. what is said, therefore, on these subjects in the following pages, will be understood to apply generally to all of the tribes which have been mentioned as inhabiting this region, although, of course, minor differences did exist, principally due to environment. as in the case of all primitive peoples, their mode of life, food supply, etc., were largely determined by natural conditions, and the tribes living in the warm foot-hills differed somewhat in these respects from those dwelling higher in the mountains. division of territory. in their original tribal settlements, at the time the first pioneer whites came among them, the indians had well defined or understood boundary lines, between the territories claimed by each tribe for their exclusive use in hunting game and gathering means of support; and any trespassing on the domain of others was likely to cause trouble. this arrangement, however, did not apply to the higher ranges of the sierras, which were considered common hunting ground. commerce among the tribes. as there was a difference in the natural products and resources of different sections of the country, there was a system of reciprocal trade in the exchange of the different desirable commodities. sometimes commerce between tribes extended for a long distance, as, for instance, the indians on the western side of the sierra nevada mountains were entirely dependent upon the pai-utes _(pye-yutes´)_ on the eastern side for the obsidian, a kind of volcanic glass, from which they made the points for their most deadly arrows, used in hunting large game or when in mortal combat with their enemies. they were also dependent upon the pai-utes for their supply of salt for domestic use, which came in solid blocks as quarried from salt mines, said to be two days' travel on foot from mono lake. from the indians at or near the catholic missions to the south, on the pacific coast, they got their hunting knives of iron or steel, and sea shells of various kinds, for personal or dress ornaments, and also to be used as money. from the same source they obtained beads of various forms, sizes and colors, cheap jewelry and other fancy articles, a few blankets, and pieces of red bunting, strips of which the chiefs and head men wore around their heads as badges, indicating their official positions. communication. they had a very efficient system of quickly spreading important news by relays of special couriers, who took the news to the first stations or tribes in different directions, where others took the verbal dispatches and ran to the next station, and so on, so that all tribes within an area of a hundred miles would get the good or bad tidings within a few hours. in this manner important communication was kept up between the different tribes. they also had well organized signal systems, by fires in the night and smoke by day, on high points of observation--variations in the lights (either steady, bright or flashing) indicating somewhat the character of the tidings thus given. dwellings. their winter huts, or _o´-chums_, as they termed them, were invariably of a conical form, made with small poles, and covered with the bark of the incense cedar (_libocedrus decurrens_). a few poles ten or twelve feet long were set in the ground around an area of about twelve feet in diameter, with their tops inclined together. the outside was then closely covered with long strips of the cedar bark, making it perfectly water-tight. an opening was left on the south side for an entrance, which could be readily closed with a portable door. an opening was also left at the top for the escape of the smoke, a fire being kindled in the center inside. [illustration: _drawing by jorgensen_. indian o´-chum. this style of house, made of cedar poles covered with bark, is more easily heated than any other form of dwelling known.] one of these huts would hold a family of a half-dozen persons, with all their household property, dogs included; and there is no other form of a single-room dwelling that can be kept warm and comfortable in cold weather with so little fire, as this indian _o´-chum._ their under-bedding usually consisted of the skins of bears, deer, antelope or elk, and the top covering was a blanket or robe made of the skins of small fur-bearing animals, such as rabbits, hares, wildcats and foxes. the skins were cut in narrow strips, which were loosely twisted so as to bring the fur entirely around on the outside, and then woven into a warp of strong twine made of the fine, tough, fibrous bark of a variety of milkweed (_asclepias speciosa_). these fur robes were very warm, and were also used as wraps when traveling in cold weather. during the warm summer season they generally lived outside in brush arbors, and used their _o´-chums_ as storage places. clothing. their clothing was very simple and scant, before being initiated into the use of a more ample and complete style of covering while living at the reservations. the ordinary full complement of dress for a man (_nung´-ah_) was simply a breech-clout, or short hip-skirt made of skins; that for a woman (_o´-hoh_) was a skirt reaching from the waist to the knees, made of dressed deerskin finished at the bottom with a slit fringe, and sometimes decorated with various fancy ornaments. both men and women frequently wore moccasins made of dressed deer or elk skin. young children generally went entirely nude. [illustration: _drawing by jorgensen_. yosemite maiden in native dress. this buckskin costume has now been replaced by the unpicturesque calico of civilization.] characteristics. the indians of the various tribes in this part of the sierras vary somewhat in physical characteristics, but in general are of medium height, strong, lean and agile, and the men are usually fine specimens of manhood. they are rather light in color, but frequently rub their bodies with some kind of oil, which gives the flesh a much redder and more glossy appearance. the hair is black and straight, and the eyes are black and deep set. the beard is sparse, and in former times was not allowed to grow at all, each hair being pulled out with a rude kind of tweezers. they are naturally of a gentle and friendly disposition, but their experience with the white race has made them distant and uncommunicative to strangers. most of the older indians still cling to their old customs and manner of living, and are very slow to learn or talk our language, but the younger ones are striving to live like the white people, and seem proud to adopt our style of dress and manner of cooking. they all speak our language plainly, and some few of them attend the public schools when living near by, and acquire very readily the common rudiments of an education. their style of architecture is in a state of transition, like themselves. their old _o´-chum_ form of dwelling is now very seldom seen--a rude building of more roomy and modern design having taken its place. all the able-bodied men are ready and willing to work at any kind of common labor, when they have an opportunity, and have learned to want nearly the same amount of pay as a white man for the same work. as a rule, they are trustworthy, and when confidence is placed in their honesty it is very rarely betrayed. during nearly the past fifty years, a great many thousands of people have visited the yosemite valley with their own camping outfits, and, during the day, and often all night, are absent on distant trips of observation, with no one left in charge of camp, yet there has never to my knowledge been an instance of anything being stolen or molested by indians. there are, however, some dishonest indians, who will steal from their own people, and some times, when a long distance from their own camp, they may steal from the whites. a few, if they can get whisky, through the aid of some white person, will become drunk and fight among themselves, and occasionally one of them may be killed; but, as a rule, they are peaceful and orderly, and hold sacred the promise made to the indian commissioners by the old tribal chiefs, when released from confinement on the reservations, that they would forever keep the peace, and never again make war against the white people. chapter four. sources of food supply. the food supply of the sierra indians was extensive and abundant, consisting of the flesh of deer, antelope, elk and mustang horses, together with fish, water-fowls, birds, acorns, berries, pine nuts, esculent herbage and the tuberous roots of certain plants, all of which were easily obtained, even with their simple and limited means of securing them. mushrooms, fungi, grasshoppers, worms and the larvae of ants and other insects, were also eaten, and some of these articles were considered great delicacies. hunting. their main effective weapons for hunting large game were their bows and obsidian-pointed arrows. their manner of hunting was either by the stealthy still hunt, or a general turn-out, surrounding a large area of favorable country and driving to a common center, where at close range the hunters could sometimes make an extensive slaughter. [illustration: _drawing by jorgensen._ a yosemite hunter. he wears a false deer's head, to deceive the game.] when on the still hunt for deer in the brushy, sparsely timbered foothills of the sierra range of mountains, or higher up in the extensive forests, some of the hunters wore for a headgear a false deer's head, by which deceptive device they were enabled to get to a closer and more effective range with their bows and arrows. this head-dress was made of the whole skin of a doe's head, with a part of the neck, the head part stuffed with light material, the eyeholes filled in with the green feathered scalp of a duck's head, and the top furnished with light wooden horns, the branching stems of the manzanita (_arctostaphylos_) being generally used for this purpose. the neck part was made to fit on the hunter's head and fasten with strings tied under the chin. this unique style of headgear was used by some indian hunters for many years after they had guns to hunt with. [illustration: _drawing by jorgensen_ indian sweat house. used by the yosemite hunters before starting after game.] the high ranges of the mountains, as already stated, were considered common hunting ground by the different tribes. the deer, many of them, were in some degree migratory in their habits, being driven from the higher ranges to the foothills by the deep winter snows, and in the spring following close to the melting, receding snow, back again to their favorite summer haunts. late in the summer, or early in the fall, just before holding some of their grand social or sacred festivals, the indian hunters would make preparation for a big hunt in the mountains, to get a good supply of venison for the feast. one of the first absolute prerequisites was to go through a thorough course of sweating and personal cleansing. this was done by resorting to their sweat houses, which were similar in construction to the _o´-chums_, except that the top was rounded and the whole structure was covered thickly with mud and earth to exclude the air. these houses were heated with hot stones and coals of fire, and the hunters would then crawl into them and remain until in a profuse perspiration, when they would come out and plunge into cold water for a wash-off. this was repeated until they thought themselves sufficiently free from all bodily odor so that the deer could not detect their approach by scent, and flee for safety. after this purification they kept themselves strictly as celibates until the hunt was over, though their women went along to help carry the outfit, keep camp, cook, search for berries and pine nuts, and assist in bringing to camp and taking care of the deer as killed, and in "packing" the meat out to the place of rendezvous appointed for the grand ceremonies and feast. their usual manner of cooking fresh meat was by broiling on hot coals, or roasting before the fire or in the embers. sometimes, however, they made a cavity in the ground, in which they built a fire, which was afterwards cleared away and the cavity lined with very hot stones, on which they placed the meat wrapped in green herbage, and covered it with other hot rocks and earth, to remain until suitably cooked. when they had a surplus of fresh meat they cut it in strips and hung it in the sun-shine to dry. the dried meat was generally cooked by roasting in hot embers, and then beaten to soften it before being eaten. a young hunter never ate any of the first deer he killed, as he believed that if he did so he would never succeed in killing another. fishing. they had various methods of catching fish--with hook and line, with a spear, by weir-traps in the stream, and by saturating the water with the juice of the soap-root plant (_chlorogalum pomeridianum_). before they could obtain fishhooks of modern make, they made them of bone. their lines were made of the tough, fibrous, silken bark of the variety of milkweed or silkweed, already mentioned. their spears were small poles pointed with a single tine of bone, which was so arranged that it became detached by the struggles of the fish, and was then held by a string fastened near its center, which turned it crosswise of the wound and made it act as an effective barb. their weir-traps were put in the rapids, and constructed by building wing dams diagonally down to the middle of the stream until the two ends came near together, and in this narrow outlet was placed a sort of wicker basket trap, made of long willow sprouts loosely woven together and closed at the pointed lower end, which was elevated above the surface of the water below the dam. the fish, in going down stream, ran into this trap, and soon found themselves at the lower end and out of the water. the soap-root was used at a low stage of water, late in summer. they dug several bushels of the bulbous roots and went to a suitable place on the bank, where the roots were pounded into a pulp, and mixed with soil and water. this mixture, by the handful, was then rubbed on rocks out in the stream, which roiled the water and also made it somewhat foamy. the fish were soon affected by it, became stupid with a sort of strangulation, and rose to the surface, where they were easily captured by the indians with their scoop baskets. in a stream the size of the south fork of the merced river at wawona, by this one operation every fish in it for a distance of three miles would be taken in a few hours. the fish were generally cooked by roasting on hot coals from burned oak wood or bark. acorns as food. acorns were their main staple article of breadstuff, and they are still used by the present generation whenever they can be obtained. [illustration: _drawing by mrs. jorgensen._ chuck´-ah. storehouse for nuts and acorns, thatched with pine branches, points downward, to keep out mice and squirrels.] they are gathered in the fall when ripe and are preserved for future use in the old style indian _cache_ or storehouse. this consists of a structure which they call a _chuck´-ah_, which is a large basket-shaped receptacle made of long willow sprouts closely woven together. it is usually about six feet high and three feet in diameter. it is set upon stout posts about three feet high and supported in position by four longer posts on the outside, reaching to the top, and there bound firmly to keep them from spreading. the outside of the basket is thatched with small pine branches, points downward, to shed the rain and snow, and to protect the contents from the depredations of squirrels and woodpeckers. when filled, the top also is securely covered with bark, as a protection from the winter storms. when the acorns are wanted for use, a small hole is made at the bottom of the _chuck´-ah_, and they are taken out from time to time as required. the acorns from the black or kellogg's oak (_quercus californica_) are considered much the best and most nutritious by the indians. this is the oak which is so beautiful and abundant in the yosemite valley. these acorns are quite bitter, and are not eaten in their natural condition, as most fruit and nuts are eaten, but have to be quite elaborately prepared and cooked to make them palatable. first, the hull is cracked and removed, and the kernel pounded or ground into a fine meal. in the yosemite valley and at other indian camps in the mountains, this is done by grinding with their stone pestles or _metats (may-tat´s)_ in the _ho´yas_ or mortars, worn by long usage in large flat-top granite rocks, one of which is near every indian camp. lower down in the foothills, where there are no suitable large rocks for these permanent mortars, the indians used single portable stone mortars for this purpose. [illustration: _photograph by fiske_. ho´-yas and me-tats´. rude mortars and pestles for grinding acorn meal. the holes have been worn in the granite by constant use.] after the acorns are ground to a fine meal, the next process is to take out the bitter tannin principle. this is done in the following manner: they make large shallow basins in clean washed sand, in the center of which are laid a few flat, fan-like ends of fir branches. a fire is then made near by, and small stones of four or five pounds in weight are heated, with which they warm water in some of their large cooking baskets, and mix the acorn meal with it to the consistency of thin gruel. this mixture is poured into the sand basins, and as the water leaches out into the sand it takes with it the bitter quality--the warm water being renewed until all the bitter taste is washed out from the meal sediment, or dough. this is then taken, and, after being cleansed from the adhering sand, is put into cooking baskets, thinned down with hot water to the desired condition, and cooked by means of hot stones which are held in it with two sticks for tongs. the mush, while cooking, is stirred with a peculiar stirring stick, made of a tough oak sprout, doubled so as to form a round, open loop at one end, which is used in lifting out any loose stones. when the dough is well cooked, it is either left _en masse_ in the basket or scooped out in rolls and put into cold water to cool and warden before being eaten. sometimes the thick paste is made into cakes and baked on hot rocks. one of these cakes, when rolled in paper, will in a short time saturate it with oil. this acorn food is probably more nutritious than any of the cereals. indian dogs. the indian dogs, of which every family had several, are as fond of the acorn food as their owners. these dogs are made useful in treeing wild-cats, california lions and gray squirrels, and are very expert in catching ground squirrels by intercepting them when away from their burrows, and when the indians drown them out in the early spring by turning water from the flooded streams into their holes. as far as can be learned, dogs were about the only domestic animals which the yosemites, and other adjacent tribes of indians, kept for use before the country was settled by the white people. nuts and berries. pine nuts were another important article of food, and were much prized by the indians. they are very palatable and nutritious, and are also greatly relished by white people whenever they can be obtained. the seeds of the digger or nut pine (_pinus sabiniana_) were the ones most used on the western side of the sierras, although the seeds of the sugar pine (_p. lambertiana_) were also sometimes eaten. on account of their soft shell, nuts from the pinon pine (_p. monophylla_), which grows principally on the eastern side of the mountains, were considered superior to either of the other kinds, and were an important article of barter with the tribes of that region. all of these trees are very prolific, and their crop of nuts in fruitful years has been estimated to be even greater than the enormous wheat crop of california, although of course but a very small portion of it is ever gathered. many other kinds of nuts and seeds were also eaten. the principal berries used by the indians of yosemite and tribes lower down in the foothills were those of the manzanita (_arctostaphylos glauca_). they are about the size of huckleberries, of a light brown color, and when ripe have the flavor of dried apples. they are used for eating, and also to make a kind of cider for drinking, and for mixing with some food preparations. manzanita is the spanish for "little apple," and this shrub, with its rich red bark and pale green foliage, is perhaps the most beautiful and most widely distributed in california. strawberries, black raspberries, elderberries, wild cherries and the fruit of the sierra plum (_prunus subcordata_) are also used by the indians, but wild edible berries are not as plentiful in california as they are in the atlantic states. grasshoppers and worms. in addition to the staple articles of food already mentioned, many other things were eaten when they could be obtained. these included grasshoppers, certain kinds of large tree worms, the white fungi which grows upon the oak, mushrooms, and the larvae and pupae of ants and other insects. the pupae of a certain kind of fly which breeds extensively on the shores of mono lake, about forty miles from yosemite, was an important article of commerce across the mountains, and was made into a kind of paste called _ka-cha´-vee_, which is still much relished by the indians, and is a prominent dish at their feasts. the manner of catching grasshoppers was to dig a large hole, somewhat in the shape of a fly trap, with the bottom larger than the opening at the top, so that the insects could not readily get out of it. this hole was dug in the center of a meadow, which was then surrounded by indians armed with small boughs, who beat the grasshoppers towards a common center and drove them into the trap. a fire was then kindled on top of them, and after they had been well roasted they were gathered up and stored for future use. [illustration: _photograph by fiske_. a wood gatherer. as in all indian tribes, the women do most of the work.] other articles of food were various kinds of roots, grasses and herbage, some of which were cooked, while others were eaten in their natural condition. the lupine (_lupinus bicolor_ and other species), whose brilliant flowers are such a beautiful feature of all the mountain meadows in the spring and summer, was a favorite plant for making what white people would call "greens," and when eaten was frequently moistened with some of the manzanita cider already referred to. among the roots used for food were those of the wild caraway (_carum_), wild hyacinth (_brodioea_), sorrel (_oxalis_), and camass (_camassia esculenta_). chapter five religious ceremonies and beliefs. the indians of this region, in common with most, if not all, of the north american aborigines, were of a highly religious temperament, most devout in their beliefs and observances, and easily wrought upon by the priests or medicine men of their tribes. elaborate ceremonies were carried out, in which all of the details were highly symbolical, and some of their curious and picturesque superstitions were responsible for acts of cruelty and vengeance, which in many cases were foreign to their natural disposition. dances. dancing was an important part of all religious observances, and was practiced purely as a ceremonial, and never for pleasure or recreation. both men and women took part, the men executing a peculiar shuffling step which involved a great deal of stamping upon the ground with their bare feet, and the women performing a curious sideways, swaying motion. some of the dancers carried wands or arrows, and indulged in wild gesticulations. they usually circled slowly around a fire, and danced to the point of exhaustion, when others would immediately take their places. the ceremony was accompanied by the beating of rude drums, and by a monotonous chant, which was joined in by all the dancers. the great occasions for dancing were before going to war, and when cremating the bodies of their dead. the war dance was probably the most elaborate in costume and other details, and of recent years the indians have sometimes given public exhibitions of what purported to be war dances, but these performances, like everything else which they do from purely mercenary motives, are very poor imitations of the originals, and it is doubtful if they have ever allowed a genuine war dance to be witnessed by white men. festivals. the various tribes in the vicinity of yosemite valley are accustomed to hold a great meeting or festival once a year, each tribe taking its turn as hosts, and the others sometimes coming from considerable distances. at these meetings there are dances and other ceremonials, and also a grand feast, for which extensive preparations are made. another feature of the occasion is the presentation of gifts to the visiting tribes, consisting of money, blankets, clothing, baskets, bead-work, or other valuable articles. these presents, or their equivalent, no matter how small they may be, are always returned to the givers at the next annual festival, together with additional gifts, which, in turn, must be given back the following year, and so on. at these gatherings an indian is appointed to secure and keep on hand a good supply of wood for the camp fires, and every day he spreads a blanket on the ground and sits on it, and the other indians throw money, clothing, or other contributions, into the blanket, to pay him and his assistants for their services. at other times this man acts as a messenger or news carrier--first spreading his blanket to collect his fees, and then starting off on his mission. marriage. many of the indians in mariposa and adjoining counties were polygamists, having two or three, and sometimes more, wives. some of the chiefs and head men would have wives from several of the adjacent tribes, which had a tendency to establish permanent friendly relations among them. every man who took a young woman for his wife had to buy her. young women were considered by their parents as personal chattels, subject to sale to the highest suitable bidder, and the payment of the price constituted the main part of the marriage ceremony. the wife was then the personal property of the husband, which he might sell or gamble away if he wished; but such instances were said to be very rare. in case negotiations for a marriage fell through, the preliminary payments were scrupulously returned to the rejected suitor by the parents. even a widow, independent of control in the matter of marriage, if she consented to become a man's wife, received some compensation herself from her intended husband. [illustration: _photograph by dore_. a young yosemite. the babies are tied to their baskets to make them straight, and keep them out of mischief.] it is said that in their marital relations they were as a rule strictly faithful to each other. if the woman was found to be guilty of unfaithfulness to her husband, the penalty was death. such a thing as a man whipping or beating his wife was never known. whipping under any circumstances was considered a more humiliating and disgraceful punishment than death. even in the management of children, whipping was never resorted to as punishment for disobedience. in fact, children were always treated in such a kind, patient, loving manner, that disobedience was a fault rarely known. the pre-natal maternal influence, and subsequent treatment after birth, were such that they were naturally patient and readily submissive to kind parental control. in recent years, under the influence and examples often seen in what is called civilized life, indian husbands have been known to beat their wives, and mothers to whip their children. [illustration: _photograph by boysen_. lena and virgil. the canopy of the baby basket is called cho-ko´-ni and the royal arches, from their resemblance to it, have also received this name from the indians.] medicine men. at the time of the settlement of california by the whites, every indian tribe had its professional doctors or medicine men, who also acted as religious leaders. they were the confidential counselors of the chiefs and head-men of the tribes, and had great influence and control over the people. they claimed to be spiritual mediums, and to have communication with the departed spirits of some of their old and most revered chieftains and dear friends, now in a much more happy condition than when here in earthly life. they were thought to be endowed with supernatural powers, not only in curing all diseases (except those due to old age), but also in making a well person sick at their pleasure, even at a distance; but when their sorcery failed to work on their white enemies and exterminate them, they lost the confidence of their followers to a large extent. with the invasion of the white settlers came forced changes in their old customs and manner of living, and a new variety of epidemic and other diseases. when a doctor failed to cure these diseases, and several deaths occurred in quick succession in a camp, they believed the doctor was under the control of some evil spirit, and killed him. after the indians were given their freedom from the reservations in 1855, the old ones, subdued and broken-hearted, sickened and died very fast, and most of the men doctors were killed off in a few years. there are none known who now attempt to act in that capacity. there are still some women doctors who continue to practice the magic art, but as there are now but very few indians, there is not so much sickness, and very few deaths in a year, so that the doctors very rarely forfeit their lives by many of their patients dying in quick succession. their most common mode of treatment in cases of sickness was to scarify the painful locality with the sharp edge of a piece of obsidian, and suck out the blood with the mouth. in cases of headache, the forehead was operated on; in a case of colic the abdomen was treated in the same way, as were also all painful swellings on any part of the body. the grand object of the doctor was to make the patient and family firmly believe that his course of treatment was removing the cause of the sickness. to aid in strengthening this belief, after diagnosing the case, and before commencing operations, he would quietly retire for a short time, ostensibly to get under the influence of the divine healing spirit, but in reality to fill his mouth with several small articles, such as bits of wood or stone; he was then ready to commence treatment. after sucking and spitting pure blood a few times, he began to spit out with the blood, one after another, the things he had in his mouth, at the sight of which all the attendants would join in a chorus of grunts of astonishment, and the doctor would pretend to be very much nauseated. in most ordinary cases two or three treatments effected a cure. the doctors also made use of certain rare medicinal plants in treating some diseases. the indian women have great faith in charms made of the pungent roots of some rare plants from the high mountain ranges, which they wear on strings around their necks, or on a string of beads, to protect them from sickness. in cases of malignant sores or ulcers on any part of the body, the doctors treated them by applying dirt or earth, and in warm weather would excavate a place in the ground and put the patient in it, either in a sitting or recumbent position, as the nature of the case required, and cover the affected part with earth for several hours, daily. sometimes, by this mode of treatment, wonderful cures were made. in all cases, if a doctor failed to cure a disease, and the patient died, he was obliged to refund to the relatives any fee which he had received for his services. disposing of the dead. in the early days of the settlement of california, it seemed to be the universal custom of the indians along the foothills of the sierra nevada range of mountains to burn the bodies of their dead. a suitable pile of readily combustible wood was prepared. the body was taken charge of by persons chosen to perform the last sacred rites, and firmly bound in skins or blankets, and then placed upon the funeral pyre, with all the personal effects of the deceased, together with numerous votive offerings from friends and relatives. the chief mourners of the occasion seemed to take but little active part in the ceremonies. when all was ready, one of the assistants would light the fire, and the terrible, wailing, mournful cry would commence, and the professional chanters, with peculiar sidling movements and frantic gestures, would circle round and round about the burning pile. occasionally, on arriving at the northwest corner of the pile, they would stop, and, pointing to the west, would end a crying refrain by exclaiming "_him-i-la´-ha!_" when these became exhausted, others would step in and take their places, and thus keep up the mournful ceremony until the whole pile was consumed. after the pile had cooled, the charred bones and ashes were gathered up, a few pieces of bone selected, and the remainder buried. of the pieces retained, some would be sent to distant relatives, and the others pounded to a fine powder, then mixed with pine pitch and plastered on the faces of the nearest female relatives as a badge of mourning, to be kept there until it naturally wore off. every indian camp used to have some of these hideous looking old women in it in the "early days." one principal reason for burning the bodies of the dead was the belief that there is an evil spirit, waiting and watching for the animating spirit or soul to leave the body, that he may get it to take to his own world of darkness and misery. by burning the perishable body they thought that the immortal soul would be more quickly released and set free to speed to the happy spirit world in the _el-o´-win_, or far distant west, while with their loud, wailing cries the evil spirit was kept away. the young women take great care of their long, shiny, black hair, of which they all feel very proud, as adding much to their personal beauty, and they seldom have it cut before marriage. but upon the death of a husband the wife has her hair all cut off and burned with his body, so that he may still have it in his future spirit home, to love and caress as a memento of his living earth-wife. [illustration: _photograph by boysen_. old kalapine. one of the oldest indians in the valley. the short hair is a badge of widowhood.] these indians believe that everything on earth, both natural and artificial, is endowed with an immortal spirit, which is indestructible, and that whatever personal property or precious gifts are burned, either with the body or in later years for the departed friend's benefit, will be received and made use of in the spirit world. in recent years the yosemites and other remnants of tribes closely associated with them, have adopted the custom of the white people, and bury their dead. the fine, expensive blankets, and most beautifully worked baskets, which have been kept sacredly in hiding for many years, to be buried with the owner, are now cut into small fragments before being deposited in the ground, for fear some white person will desecrate the grave by digging them up and carrying them away. there are no people in the world who more reverence for their dead, or hold memory more sacred, than these so-called "digger" indians. after being released from the reservations they kept themselves in abject poverty for many sacrificing their best blankets, baskets and clothing in the devouring flames of a fire kindled for that purpose, when holding their annual mourning festivals in memory of their dead friends. religious beliefs. the old indians are all very reticent regarding their religious beliefs. they hold them too sacred to be exposed to possible ridicule, and it is therefore very difficult to get information from them by direct questions. they seem, however, to have a vague, indistinct belief or tradition that their original ancestors, in the long forgotten past, dwelt in a better and much more desirable country than this, in the _el-o´-win_, or distant west, and that by some misfortune or great calamity they were separated from that nappy land, and became wanderers in this part of the world. they also believe that the spirits of all good indians will be permitted, after death, to go back to that happy country of their ancestors' origin; but that the spirits of bad indians have to serve another earth life in the form of a grizzly bear, as a punishment for their former crimes. hence, no indians ever eat bear meat if they know it. all the old indians are spiritualists, and very superstitious in their religious beliefs. one special tenet is that if one of their relatives or friends has been murdered, he will not receive them on terms of friendship in the spirit world unless they revenge his death, by either killing the murderer or some one of the same blood. this belief sometimes results in an entirely innocent person being put to death. they all have a great fear of evil spirits, which they believe have the power to do them much harm and defeat their undertakings. they also have a fairly distinct idea of a diety or great spirit, who never does them any harm, and whose home is in the happy land of their ancestors in the west. [illustration: _photograph by boysen_. yosemite basketry. the ellen boysen collection of baskets and bead work.] chapter six native industries. the yosemites and other kindred or adjacent tribes have been branded as "diggers," and are generally thought to be the lowest class of indians in america, but in some lines of artistic work they excelled all other tribes. for example, their basketry work, for domestic and sacred purposes, and their bows and arrows, were of very superior workmanship and fine finish. basketry and bead work. many years ago the chief industry of the indian women, aside from their other domestic duties, was the making of baskets. they made a great variety of shapes and sizes for their common use, and also many of a more artistic design and finer finish for the sacred purpose of being burned or buried with their bodies, or that of some relative or dear friend, after death. the baskets devoted to this special purpose are the finest made, but are very seldom seen by any white person, and are not for sale at any price. this finest style of work seems to have been made a specialty by certain of the most artistic workers in each tribe. [illustration: mrs. jorgensen's collection of baskets. for the mythical origin of basket-making in the yosemite see "legend of to-tau-kon-nu´-la and tis-sa´-ack."] at the present time, in their more modern style of living, they do not require so many baskets, and the industry of making them is fast on the decline. some of the old women, however, still continue to make such as are required for their own use, and a few others for sale. most of the ornamental figures and designs worked into the finest basketry are symbolical in character, and of so ancient an origin that indians of the present day do not know what many of them are intended to represent. they have simply been copied from time immemorial, with the idea that they were necessary for the complete finish and beauty of the article made. in recent years they sometimes make use of more modern styles of ornamentation, which they see in print. [illustration: _photograph by fiske_. indian bead work. mrs. george fiske's collection of yosemite and pai-ute´ bead work.] many of the young women are now giving their attention to making fancy bead work, in the form of ornamental belts and hat-bands, but this is an industry of very modern origin. some of them are employed by white people to do laundry and other work, and any labor of this kind pays them better than making baskets for sale. forty years ago a finely made basket could have been bought for less than ten dollars. at present, if the time spent in getting and preparing the necessary materials, and in working them into the basket, were paid for at the same rate per day that a young woman receives for doing washing in the hotel laundry, or for private families, it would amount to over one hundred dollars. most of the baskets made for domestic use are so closely woven that they are practically water-tight, and are used for cooking and similar purposes. over on the eastern side of the sierra nevada mountains, near the dry, desert country, the indians make some of their baskets in the form of jugs of various sizes. these are smeared over with a pitch composition, which renders them perfectly water-tight, and they are used for carrying water when traveling over those desolate, sandy wastes. bows and arrows. the indian men showed no less ingenuity artistic skill in their special lines of work than the women, especially in manufacture of their bows and arrows, in the making of fish lines and coarser twine out of the soft, flexible bark of the milkweed (_asclepias speciosa_), and in making other useful implements and utensils with the very limited means at their disposal. their bows were made of a branch of the incense cedar (_libocedrus decurrens_), or of the california nutmeg (_tumion californicum [torreya])_, made flat on the outer side, and rounded smooth on the inner or concave side when the bow is strung for use. the flat, outer side was covered with sinew, usually that from the leg of a deer, steeped in hot water until it became soft and glutinous, and then laid evenly and smoothly over the wood, and so shaped at the ends as to hold the string in place. when thoroughly dry the sinew contracted, so that the bow when not strung was concave on the outer side. [illustration: _photograph by boysen._ a basket maker. she is weaving a burden basket. the one to the left is for cooking, and a baby basket stands against the tent.] when not in use the bow was always left unstrung. to string it for use, it was necessary in cold weather to warm it, thus making it more elastic and easily bent. the best strings were also made of sinew, or of pax-wax cartilage, for their finest bows. the arrows were made of reeds and various kinds of wood, including the syringa (_philadelphus lewisii_) and a small shrub or tree which the indians called _le-ham´-i-tee,_ or arrow-wood, and which grew quite plentifully in what is now known as indian canyon, near the yosemite falls. the finest arrows were furnished with points made of obsidian, or volcanic glass, which was obtained in the vicinity of mono lake on the eastern side of the sierras. it required great care and delicate skill to work this brittle material into the fine sharp points, and the making of them seemed to be a special business or trade with some of the old men. arrows furnished with these points were only used in hunting large game, or in hostile combat with enemies; for common use, in hunting small game, the hard wooden arrow was merely sharpened to a point. the butt, or end used on the string, was furnished with three or four short strips of feathers taken from a hawk's wing, and fastened on lengthwise. these strips of feathers are supposed to aid in the more accurate flight of the arrow when shot from the bow. when out on a hunt the indian carried his bow strung ready for use, and his bundle of assorted arrows in a quiver made of the skin of a small fox, wild-cat or fisher, hung conveniently over his shoulder. these primitive weapons, which were in universal use by the yosemite indians fifty years ago, are now never seen except in some collection of indian relics and curios. other articles manufactured by these tribes were stone hammers, and also others made from the points of deer horns mounted on wooden handles, which they used in delicately chipping the brittle obsidian in forming arrowheads. rude musical instruments, principally drums and flageolets, were also made. chapter seven. myths and legends. the indians of the yosemite valley and vicinity have a great fund of mythological lore, which has been handed down verbally from generation to generation for hundreds of years, but they are very reluctant to speak of these legends to white people, and it is extremely difficult to get reliable information on the subject. moreover, the indians most familiar with them have not a sufficient knowledge of the english language to be able to express their ideas clearly. many yosemite legends have been published at different times and in various forms, and it is probable that most of them have had at least a foundation in real indian myths, but many are obviously fanciful in some particulars, and it is impossible to tell how much is of indian origin and how much is due to poetic embellishment. when asked about some of these legends, many years ago, one of the old yosemite indians remarked contemptuously, "white man too much lie." on the other hand, red men as well as white men are sometimes given to romancing, and i have known of cases where "legends" would be manufactured on the spur of the moment by some young indian to satisfy an importunate and credulous questioner, to the keen but suppressed amusement of other indians present. it will therefore be seen that this subject is surrounded with some difficulty, and it must not be understood that the legends here given are vouched for as of wholly indian origin. some of them, notably those of the tul-tok´-a-na and the second legend of tis-sa´-ack, have been accepted by eminent ethnologists, and are believed to be purely aboriginal, while others have doubtless been somewhat idealized in translation and in the course of numerous repetitions. the legend of to-tau-kon-nu´-la and tis-sa´-ack is made up of fragments of mythological lore obtained from a number of old indians at various times during the past fifty years. it varies somewhat from other legends which have been published regarding these same characters, but it is well known that the indians living in yosemite in recent years are of mixed tribal origin and do not all agree as to the traditional history of the region, nor the names of the prominent scenic features, nor even of the valley itself. and this largely accounts for the fact that some of the legends do not harmonize with each other in details or in sentiment. all of them, however, are picturesque, and they certainly give an added interest to the natural beauties and wonders with which they are associated. legend of to-tau-kon-nu´-la and tis-sa´-ack. innumerable moons and snows have passed since the great spirit guided a little band of his favorite children into the beautiful vale of ah-wah´-nee [yosemite valley], and bid them stop and rest from their long and weary wanderings, which had lasted ever since they had been separated by the great waters from the happy land of their forefathers in the far distant _el-o´-win_ (west). here they found food in abundance for all. the rivers gave them plenty of _la-pe´-si_ (trout). they found in the meadows sweet _ha´-ker_ (clover), and sour _yu-yu-yu-mah_ (oxalis) for spring medicine, and sweet _toon´-gy_ and other edible roots in abundance. the trees and bushes yielded acorns, pine nuts, fruits and berries. in the forests were herds of _he´-ker_ (deer) and other animals, which gave meat for food and skins for clothing and beds. and here they lived and multiplied, and, as instructed by their medicine men, worshipped the great spirit which gave them life, and the sun which warmed and made them happy. [illustration: _photograph by boysen_. mary. daughter of captain john, one of the last chiefs of the yosemites.] they also kept in memory the happy land of their forefathers. the story was told by the old people to the young, and they again told it to their children from generation to generation, and they all believed that after death their spirits would return to dwell forever in that distant country. they prospered and built other towns outside of ah-wah´-nee, and became a great nation. they learned wisdom by experience and by observing how the great spirit taught the animals and insects to live, and they believed that their children could absorb the cunning of the wild creatures. and so the young son of their chieftain was made to sleep in the skins of the beaver and coyote, that he might grow wise in building, and keen of scent in following game. on some days he was fed with _la-pe´-si_ that he might become a good swimmer, and on other days the eggs of the great _to-tau´-kon_ (crane) were his food, that he might grow tall and keen of sight, and have a clear, ringing voice. he was also fed on the flesh of the _he´-ker_ that he might be fleet of foot, and on that of the great _yo-sem´-i-te_ (grizzly bear) to make him powerful in combat. and the little boy grew up and became a great and wise chieftain, and he was also a rain wizard, and brought timely rains for the crops. as was the custom in giving names to all indians, his name was changed from time to time, as his character developed, until he was called choo´-too-se-ka´, meaning the supreme good. his grand _o-chum_ (house) was built at the base of the great rock called to-tau-kon-nu´-la [el capitan], because the great _to-tau´-kons_ made their nests and raised their young in a meadow at its summit, and their loud ringing cries resounded over the whole valley. as the moons and snows passed, this great rock and all the great rocky walls around the valley grew in height, and the hills became high mountains. after a time choo´-too-se-ka´ built himself a great palace _o´-chum_ on the summit of the rock to-tau-kon-nu´-la, and had his great chair of state a little west of his palace, where on all festival occasions he could overlook and talk to the great multitude below; and the remains of this chair are still to be seen. choo´-too-se-ka´ was then named to-tau-kon-nu´-la, because he had built his _o´-chum_ on the summit of the great rock and taken the place of the _to-tau´-kons_. he had no wife, but all the women served him in his domestic needs, as he was their great chief, and his wishes were paramount. the many valuable donations which he received from his people at the great annual festivals made him wealthy beyond all personal wants, and he gave freely to the needy. one day, while standing on the top of the great dome [sentinel dome] above the south wall of the valley, watching the great herds of deer, he saw some strange people approaching, bearing heavy burdens. they were fairer of skin, and their clothing was different from that of his people, and when they drew near he asked them who they were and whence they came. and a woman replied, "i am tis-sa´-ack, and these are some of my people. we come from _cat´-tan chu´-much_ (far south). i have heard of your great wisdom and goodness, and have come to see you and your people. we bring you presents of many fine baskets, and beads of many colors, as tokens of our friendship. when we have rested and seen your people and beautiful valley we will return to our home." [illustration: _photograph by foley_ half dome (tis-sa´-ack). 5,000 feet. named for a woman in indian mythology who was turned to stone for quarreling with her husband. see "legend of tis-sa´-ack."] to-tau-kon-nu´-la was much pleased with his fair visitor, and built a large _o´-chum_ for her and her companions on the summit of the great dome at the east end of the valley [half dome], and this dome still retains her name. and she tarried there and taught the women of ah-wah´-nee how to make the beautiful baskets which they still make at the present day; and to-tau-kon-nu´-la visited her daily, and became charmed with her loveliness, and wanted her to remain and be his wife, but she denied him, saying, "i must return to my people," and, when he still persisted, she left her _o´-chum_ in the night and was never seen again. and the love-stricken chieftain forgot his people, and went in search of her, and they waited many moons for his return and mourned his long absence, but they never saw him more. this was the beginning of a series of calamities which nearly destroyed the great tribe of ah-wah-nee´-chees. first a great drouth prevailed, and the crops failed, and the streams of water dried up. the deer went wild and wandered away. then a dark cloud of smoke arose in the east and obscured the sun, so that it gave no heat, and many of the people perished from cold and hunger. then the earth shook terribly and groaned with great pain, and enormous rocks fell from the walls around ah-wah´-nee. the great dome called tis-sa´-ack was burst asunder, and half of it fell into the valley. a fire burst out of the earth in the east, and the _ca´-lah_ (snow) on the sky mountains was changed to water, which flowed down and formed the lake ah-wei´-yah [mirror lake]. and all the streams were filled to overflowing, and still the waters rose, and there was a great flood, so that a large part of the valley became a lake, and many persons were drowned. after a time the great spirit took pity on his children, and the dark cloud of smoke disappeared, the sun warmed the valley again into new life, and the few people who were left had plenty of food once more. many moons afterwards there appeared on the face of the great rock to-tau-kon-nu´-la the figure of a man in a flowing robe, and with one hand extended toward the west, in which direction he appears to be traveling. this figure was interpreted to be the picture of the great lost chieftain, indicating that he had gone to the "happy hunting grounds" of his ancestors, and it is looked upon with great veneration and awe by the few indians still living in yosemite. at about the same time the face of the beautiful tis-sa´-ack appeared on the great flat side of the dome which bears her name, and the indians recognized her by the way in which her dark hair was cut straight across her forehead and fell down at the sides, which was then considered among the yosemites as the acme of feminine beauty, and is so regarded to this day. another legend of tis-sa´-ack. tis-sa´-ack and her husband traveled from a far-off country, and entered the valley footsore and weary. she walked ahead, carrying a great conical burden-basket, which was supported by a band across her forehead, and was filled with many things. he followed after, carrying a rude staff in his hand and a roll of woven skin blankets over his shoulder. they had come across the mountains and were very thirsty, and they hurried to reach the valley, where they knew there was water. the woman was still far in advance when she reached the lake ah-wei´-yah [mirror lake], and she dipped up the water in her basket and drank long and deep. she was so thirsty that she even drank up all the water in the lake and drained it dry before her husband arrived. and because the lake was dry there came a terrible drouth in the valley, and the soil was dried up and nothing grew. [illustration: _photograph by fiske_ a burden bearer. the women are the principal burden bearers and all loads are carried in large baskets, supported by a band across the forehead.] and the husband was much displeased because the woman had drunk up all the water and left none for him, and he became so angry that he forgot the customs of his people and beat the woman with his staff. she ran away from him, but he followed her and beat her yet more. and she wept, and in her anger she turned and reviled her husband, and threw her basket at him. and while they were in this attitude, one facing the other, they were turned into stone for their wickedness, and there they still retain. the upturned basket lies beside the husband, where the woman threw it, and the woman's face is tear stained with long dark lines trailing down. half-dome is the woman tis-sa´-ack and north dome is her husband, while beside the latter is a smaller dome which is still called basket dome to this day. legend of the grizzly bear. the significance and derivation of the name "yosemite," as given by old tenei´-ya, chief of the tribe, have been explained in another chapter, but there is also a legendary account of its origin, which may be of interest. long, long ago, when the remote ancestors of the yosemite indians dwelt peacefully in the valley called ah-wah´-nee [yosemite valley], one of the stalwart young braves of the tribe went early one morning to spear some fish in the lake ah-wei´-yah [mirror lake]. before reaching his destination he was confronted by a huge grizzly bear, who appeared from behind one of the enormous boulders in that vicinity, and savagely disputed his passage. [illustration: _photograph by foley._ el capitan (to-tau-kon-nu´-la), 3,300 feet. indians believe that this great rock grew from a small boulder. see "legend of the tul-tok´-a-na."] being attacked in this unexpected manner, the indian defended himself to the best of his ability, using for the purpose the dead limb of a tree which was near at hand, and, after a long and furious struggle, in which he was badly wounded, he at length succeeded in killing the bear. his exploit was considered so remarkable by the rest of the tribe that they called him yo-sem´-i-te (meaning a full-grown grizzly bear), in honor of his achievement, and this name was transmitted to his children, and eventually to the whole tribe. legend of the tul-tok´-a-na. there were once two little boys living in the valley of ah-wah´-nee, who went down to the river to swim. when they had finished their bath they went on shore and lay down on a large boulder to dry themselves in the sun. while lying there they fell asleep, and slept so soundly that they never woke up again. through many moons and many snows they slept, and while they slept the great rock [el capitan] on which they lay was slowly rising, little by little, until it soon lifted them up out of sight, and their friends searched for them everywhere without success. thus they were carried up into the blue sky, until they scraped their faces against the moon; and still they slept on. [illustration: _photograph by fiske_. north dome (to-ko´-ya). 3,725 feet. this rock is believed by the indians to represent tis-sa´-ack's husband, turned into stone for beating his wife. the lower dome to the right is the basket which she threw at him. see "legend of tis-sa´-ack."] then all the animals assembled to bring down the little boys from the top of the great rock. each animal sprang up the face of the rock as far as he could. the mouse could only spring a hand's breadth, the rat two hands' breadths, the raccoon a little more, and so on. the grizzly bear made a great leap up the wall, but fell back like all the others, without reaching the top. finally came the lion, who jumped up farther than any of the others, but even he fell back and could not reach the top. then came the _tul-tok´-a-na,_ the insignificant measuring worm, who was despised by all the other creatures, and began to creep up the face of the rock. step by step, little by little, he measured his way up until he was soon above the lion's jump, and still farther and farther, until presently he was out of sight; and still he crawled up and up, day and night, through many moons, and at length he reached the top, and took the little boys and brought them safely down to the ground. and therefore the rock was named for the measuring worm, and was called tu-tok-a-nu´-la. legend of grouse lake. i will here relate a personal experience which occurred in september, 1857, while out with a large party of indians on a deer hunt in the mountains. one day, after a long tramp, i stopped to rest by the side of a small lake about eight miles from the present site of wawona, and i then named it grouse lake on account of the great number of grouse found there. very soon a party of indians came along carrying some deer, and stopped on the opposite side of the lake to rest and get some water. soon after they had started again for their camp i heard a distinct wailing cry, somewhat like the cry of a puppy when lost, and i thought the indians must have left one of their young dogs behind. when i joined the indians in camp that night i inquired of them about the sound i had heard. they replied that it was not a dog--that a long time ago an indian boy had been drowned in the lake, and that every time any one passed there he always cried after them, and that no one dared to go in the lake, for he would catch them by the legs and pull them down and they would, be drowned. i then concluded that it must have been some unseen water-fowl that made the cry, and at that time i thought that the indians were trying to impose on my credulity, but i am now convinced that they fully believed the story they told me. po-ho´-no lake, the headwaters of the bridal veil creek, was also thought to be haunted by troubled spirits, which affected the stream clear down into the yosemite valley; and the indians believed that an evil wind there had been the cause of some fatal accidents many years ago. the word po-ho´-no means a puffing wind, and has also been translated "evil wind," on account of the superstition above referred to. legend of the lost arrow. tee-hee´-nay was a beautiful ah-wah´-nee maiden, said to be the most beautiful of her tribe, and she was beloved by kos-su´-kah, a strong and valiant young brave. valuable presents had been made to the bride's parents, and they had given their consent to an early marriage, which was to be celebrated by a great feast. to provide an abundance of venison and other meat for this banquet, kos-su´-kah gathered together his young companions and went into the mountains in search of game. in order that tee-hee´-nay might know of his welfare and the success of the hunt, it was agreed between the lovers that at sunset kos-su´-kah should go to the high rock to the east of cho´-lak [yosemite falls], and should shoot an arrow into the valley, to which should be attached a number of grouse feathers corresponding to the number of deer that had fallen before the skill of the hunters. [illustration: _photograph by fiske_. bridal veil fall (po-ho´-no). 940 feet. the-source of this stream is supposed by the indians to be haunted by troubled spirits, which affect the water along its whole course. the word po-ho´-no means a "puffing wind."] at the time appointed tee-hee´-nay went near the foot of the great cliff and waited, with her eyes raised to the towering rocks above, hoping with her keen sight to see the form of her lover outlined against the sky, but no form could she see, and no arrow fell into the valley. as darkness gathered, gloomy forebodings took possession of her, and she climbed part way up the canyon called le-ham´-i-tee [now known as indian canyon] because the arrow-wood grew there, and finally she stood at the very foot of the rocky wall which rose to dizzy heights above her, and there she waited through the long night. with the first streak of dawn she bounded swiftly up the rough canyon, for she was fully convinced that some terrible fate had overtaken the brave kos-su´-kah, and soon she stood upon the lofty summit [yosemite point], where she found her lover's footsteps leading towards the edge of the precipice. drawing nearer she was startled to find that a portion of the cliff had given way, and, upon peering over the brink, what was her horror to discover the blood-stained and lifeless body of kos-su´-kah lying on a rocky ledge far beneath. summoning assistance by means of a signal fire, which was seen from the valley below, a rope was made of sapling tamaracks lashed firmly together with thongs from one of the deer that was to have furnished the marriage feast, and tee-hee´-nay herself insisted on being lowered over the precipice to recover the body of her lover. this was at last successfully accomplished, and when his ghastly form lay once more upon the rocky summit, she threw herself on his bosom and gave way to passionate outburst of grief. finally she became quiet, but when they stooped to raise her they found that her spirit had fled to join the lost kos-su´-kah and that the lovers were re-united in death! the fateful arrow that was the cause of so much sorrow could never be found, and the indians believe that it was taken away by the spirits of kos-su´-kah and tee-hee´-nay. in memory of them, and of this tragedy, the slender spire of rock [sometimes called "the devil's thumb"] that rises heavenward near the top of the cliff at this point is known among the indians as hum-mo´, or the lost arrow. appendix hints to yosemite visitors. secure stage seats in advance. take only hand baggage, unless for a protracted visit. for a short trip, an outing suit and two or three waists, with a change for evening wear, will be found sufficient. the free baggage allowance on the stage lines is fifty pounds. men will find flannel or negligee shirts the most comfortable. in april, may and june wear warm clothing and take heavy wraps. in july, august and september wear medium clothing, with light wraps. in october and november wear warm clothing, with heavy wraps. the nights are cool at all seasons. dusters are always advisable, and ladies should provide some light head covering to protect the hair from dust. sun bonnets are frequently worn. short skirts are most convenient. divided skirts are proper for trail trips, as ladies are required to ride astride. heavy denim for skirt and bloomers is very satisfactory. such skirts can be hired in the valley. waists of soft material and neutral shades are appropriate. avoid white. something absolutely soft for neckwear will be found a great comfort, both by men and women. leggings, stout, comfortable shoes, and heavy, loose gloves, will be found very serviceable. a soft felt hat is preferable to straw. one that will shade the eyes is best. a cloth traveling cap is the worst thing to wear. smoked glasses will sometimes save the wearer a headache. except in april, may and november, an umbrella is apt to be a useless encumbrance. if the skin is sensitive, and one wishes to avoid painful sunburn, the use of a pure cream and soft cloth is preferable to water, and far more efficacious. a week is the shortest time that should be allowed for a trip to yosemite. two weeks are better. the grandeur of the valley cannot be fully appreciated in a few days. those not accustomed to staging or mountain climbing should make some allowance in their itineraries for rest. many visitors spoil their pleasure by getting too tired. take a little more money than you think will be needed. you may want to prolong your stay. hunting, or the possession of firearms, is not permitted in the yosemite national park. fishing is allowed, and in june and july an expert angler is likely to be well rewarded. rods and tackle may be hired in the valley. there is no hardship, risk or danger in any part of the yosemite trip. many old people and children visit the valley without difficulty. a knowledge of horsemanship is not needed for going on the trails. the most timid people make the trips with enjoyment. some of the finest views can only be obtained in this way. there is a laundry in the valley. there is a barber shop. there is a post office, telegraph and express. there is a general store and places for the sale of photographs, curios and indian work. treat the indians with courtesy and consideration, if you expect similar treatment from them. do not expect them to pose for you for nothing. they are asked to do it hundreds of times every summer, and are entitled to payment for their trouble. kodak films and plates can be obtained in the valley. developing and printing are done in the valley. take your camera. official table of distances and livery charges. the following are the legal rates for transportation of tourists in and about the yosemite valley: carriages. from hotels or public e d ( r o m r o f camps, and return. s i r a f o a f o t s o t r t u i t u e f e e l r m a n o e a n d f u f s t c o r o s e e t r r d r o t i p r p h p a a a ) r r n t t y y miles each each person person to cascades, yosemite and bridal veil falls 16.00 $1.50 $2.00 to mirror lake 5.82 1.00 1.00 to river view and bridal veil falls 10.41 1.00 1.50 to new inspiration point 14.38 2.00 2.50 to happy isles 4.00 .50 1.00 to yosemite falls 3.00 .50 .75 saddle horses. ----------------------------+------------+---------------+-------------from hotels or public | estimated | rate for | rate for camps, and return. | distance | party of | party of less | (round | four or more | than four | trip) | | ----------------------------+------------+---------------+------------- | miles | each person | each person to vernal and nevada falls | 10.90 | $ 2.50 | $ 3.00 to yosemite falls and eagle | | | peak | 13.18 | 3.00 | 3.00 to glacier point and | | | sentinel dome | 11.14 | 3.00 | 3.00 to yosemite point | 10.00 | 2.50 | 3.00 to eagle peak | 13.00 | 3.00 | 3.00 to vernal and nevada falls | | | and glacier point | | | (continuous trip) | 19.22 | 4.00 | 5.00 to glacier point, sentinel | | | dome and fissures | 14.00 | 3.50 | 3.75 to old inspiration point | | | and stanford point | 16.00 | 4.00 | 4.00 to vernal and nevada falls | | | and cloud's rest (same day) | 22.00 | 4.00 | 5.00 charges for guide | | | (including horse) | | | when furnished | | free | 3.00 ----------------------------+------------+---------------+---------1. trips other than those above specified shall be subject to special arrangements between the parties and the stables. 2. any excess of the above rates, as well as any extortion, incivility, misrepresentation, or riding of unsafe animals, should be reported to the superintendent's office. 3. all distances are estimated from the superintendent's office. supplementary table of distances. from superintendent's office. miles bridal veil falls 4 yosemite falls, base 3/4 upper yosemite fall, base 2 3/4 upper yosemite fall, top 4 1/4 little yosemite valley 8 glacier point (short trail) 4 1/2 glacier point (via nevada falls) 14 1/2 cascades 8 * * * * * interpretation of indian names. the indians had names for all the prominent features of the yosemite valley, and these have been variously translated (sometimes with considerable poetic license), and variously spelled. the translations given below are as literal as possible, without embellishment, and are believed to be fairly accurate. the spelling adopted is such as best indicates the pronunciation. the english names, by which the falls and peaks are commonly known, bear no relation to the indian names, but were bestowed by the soldiers of the mariposa battalion at the time the valley was discovered. the appropriateness and good taste of most of them are due to dr. l.h. bunnell, the surgeon of the expedition. ah-wah´-nee (original name of yosemite valley)--"deep grassy valley." yo-sem´-i-te--"full-grown grizzly bear." po-ho´-no (bridal veil)--"a puffing-wind." loi´-ya (the sentinel)--"a signal station." cho´-lack (yosemite falls)--"the falls." cho-ko´-ni (royal arches)--"canopy of baby basket." strictly speaking, this name applies only to a deep alcove near the top of this cliff. yo-wei´-yee (nevada)--"twisting." to-tau-kon-nu´-la (el capitan)--named from the to-tau´-kons, or cranes, which used to make their nests in a meadow near the top of this rock. ku-so´-ko (cathedral rock)--interpretation doubtful. pu-see´-na chuck´-ah (cathedral spires)--"pu-see-na" means mouse or rat, and might possibly be applied to a squirrel. "chuck-ah" is a store house or _cache_. waw-haw´-kee (three brothers)--"falling rocks." pom-pom-pa´-sus, usually given as the indian name of the three brothers, is the name of a smaller rock immediately to the west. wei-yow´ (mt. watkins)--"juniper mountain." to-ko´-ya (north dome)--"the basket." tis-sa´-ack (half dome)--a character in indian mythology. mah´-ta (cap of liberty)--said to mean "martyr mountain." pi-wei´-ack (vernal fall)--said to mean "sparkling water." le-ham´-i-tee (indian canyon)--"the place of the arrow-wood." hum-mo´ (devil's thumb)--"the lost arrow." ah-wei´-ya (mirror lake)--"quiet water." too-loo´-lo-wei-ack (illillouette fall)--interpretation doubtful. wah´-wo-nah--"big tree." (now commonly spelled and pronounced wa-wo´-na.) heights of yosemite's water-falls. feet cascades 700 bridal veil 940 ribbon 3,300 sentinel 3,270 yosemite (upper 1,600 ft.; lower 400 ft.) 2,634 royal arch 2,000 vernal 350 nevada 700 illillouette 500 yosemite's peaks and domes. with altitudes above floor of valley. (the valley floor is about 4,000 feet above sea level.) feet inspiration point 1,248 el capitan 3,300 cathedral rock 2,678 cathedral spires 1,934 royal arches (span) 2,000 the sentinel 3,100 sentinel dome 4,122 three brothers 3,900 eagle peak 3,900 yosemite point 3,220 glacier point 3,250 north dome 3,725 half dome 5,000 cap of liberty. 3,062 union point 2,350 cloud's rest. 5,912 mt. starr king 5,100 names of indian numerals. king-eet´ one o-tee´-cat two tul-o´-cat three o-e´-sart four mo´-ho´´-cat five te´-mo´´-cat six te-tow´-ok seven cow-in´-tuk eight el´-e´´-wok nine ne-ah´-jah ten larger numbers are expressed by combinations of these numbers. indian words in common use. wat-too´ the sun co´-ma moon he-a´-mah day cow-il´-la night tum-aw´-lin north chu´-muck south he´-home east el-o´-win west het-a-poo´-pa cold wool-tut´-tee hat* come´-haw burn chum´-haw dead or die na´-win up or above hoo´-ya down or below wool-ar´-nee to hunt or look for took´-hah to kill e´-win now oo´-haw by and by man´-nik more ut´-tee much wa´-le-co quick now´-tah to steal nung´-hah man o´-hock woman es-el´-lo baby or infant *transcriber's note: this appears to be a typographical error for "hot." see "central sierra miwok dictionary with texts" by l. s. freeland and sylvia m. broadbent (publications in linguistics vol. xxiii, university of california press, berkeley, 1960). names of the indian tribes placed on the fresno and kings river reservations in 1850 and 1851. names of tribes- from-wil-tuk´-um-nees tuolumne river yo-sem´-i-tees yosemite valley po-to-en´-sees and noot´-choos merced river chow-chil´-lies chowchilla valley me´-woos fresno valley chook-chan´-cies fresno and san joaquin rivers ho-na´-ches san joaquin river pit-cal´-chees and tal-an´-chees san joaquin valley cas-was´-sees fine gold gulch wah-too´-kees, wat´-chees, no´-to-no´-tose and we-mel´-chees kings river cow-il´-lees and tel-um´-nees four creeks woo´-wells and tal´-chees tule lake guide to yosemite a handbook of the trails and roads of yosemite valley and the adjacent region _by_ ansel f. hall u.s. national park service in charge of information yosemite national park transcriber's note: words surrounded by the symbol ~ indicate instances of bold type. [illustration: aeroplane view of yosemite valley and its adjacent region. key to aeroplane view. 1 artist's point 2 inspiration point 3 old insp. point 4 stanford point 5 crocker point 6 dewey point 7 bridal veil falls 8 cathedral rocks 9 cathedral spires 10 taft point 11 the fissures 12 sentinel rock 13 union point 14 glacier point 15 sentinel dome 16 illilouette falls 17 panorama cliff 18 vernal falls 19 nevada falls 20 little yosemite 21 liberty cap 22 mt. broderick 23 half dome 24 mt. watkins 25 indian rock 26 basket dome 27 north dome 28 washington column 29 royal arches 30 yosemite point 31 lost arrow 32 yosemite falls 33 el capitan 34 ribbon fall 35 mirror lake 36 camp curry 37 yosemite village and sentinel hotel 38 yosemite lodge 39 three brothers, (eagle peak) 40 red peak. 11,700 ft. 41 mt. starr king. 9,181 ft. 42 grey peak. 11,561 ft. 43 mt. clark. 11,506 ft. 44 foerster peak. 12,062 ft. 45 electra peak. 12,462 ft. 46 rodgers peak. 13,006 ft. 47 mt. lyell. 13,050 ft. 48 mt. florence. 12,507 ft. 49 mt. mcclure. 12,500 ft. 50 lake washburn. 7,640 ft. 51 lake merced. 7,150 ft. 52 cloud's rest. 9,924 ft 53 sunrise mt. 9,800 ft 54 mammoth peak. 12,215 ft. 55 castle in the air. 10,760 ft. 56 cathedral peak. 10,433 ft. 57 gibbs mountain. 12,700 ft. 58 tenaya peak. 10,200 ft. 59 dana mountain. 13,050 ft. 60 lake tenaya. 8,141 ft. 61 fairview dome. 9,737 ft. 62 tuolumne meadows. 8,594 ft.] introduction this guide and trail companion was brought about by thousands of requests for practical information concerning the many short excursions from yosemite. besides briefly describing yosemite valley, its scenic features, and the immediately adjacent portion of the sierra, detailed information has been introduced concerning each trail and road in the region. these are described just as they are actually followed, and attention is called to each point of interest just as it is discovered during the trip itself. as far as possible, complete data has been introduced on condition of trails, time required to make the trips, fishing, camp sites, forage conditions, etc., in short all kinds of information which would be demanded of a hired guide. the original draft of this handbook was prepared in collaboration with forest s. townsley, chief ranger of yosemite national park. later, each of the park rangers suggested valuable additions, and several members of the sierra club contributed bits of valuable information. the author has freely consulted old books and pamphlets in the bancroft historical library at the university of california and has included several points of historical interest. acknowledgment is also due to mr. herbert maier for the drawings and maps here reproduced and to the united states geological survey for permission to reproduce a portion of the "administrative map of yosemite national park." suggestions as to additions or corrections which would make this booklet more useful to the public would be greatly appreciated and should be addressed to the author, care of united states national park service, yosemite, california. ansel f. hall in charge of information yosemite national park yosemite, california may 1, 1920 copyright 1920 _by_ ansel f. hall contents ~the yosemite region~ 1 ~yosemite valley~ 2 origin 2 early history 2 general features of the valley 3 the waterfalls 5 ~yosemite village~ 8 ~yosemite roads~ 13 i el portal to yosemite via el capitan road 14 i-a pohono bridge to yosemite via bridalveil road 18 ii-a tour of the floor of the valley 20 iii yosemite to glacier point via chinquapin road 26 iv yosemite to tenaya lake, tuolumne meadows, and mono lake via big oak flat and tioga roads 30 v yosemite to hetch hetchy via big oak flat road and hetch hetchy railroad 38 vi yosemite to el portal via el capitan road 39 vi-a yosemite village to pohono bridge via bridalveil road 43 ~yosemite trails~ 46 1 yosemite to glacier point via vernal and nevada falls and return via the short trail 47 2 yosemite to glacier point via the short trail and return via vernal and nevada falls 52 3 yosemite to north dome via yosemite falls and return via mirror lake 56 4 yosemite to north dome via mirror lake and return via yosemite falls 60 5 yosemite to tenaya lake via clouds rest and forsyth pass and return via mirror lake 63 6 yosemite to tenaya lake via mirror lake and return via forsyth pass and clouds rest 67 7 yosemite to lake merced 70 8 yosemite to tuolumne meadows via sunrise trail 72 9 yosemite to eagle peak, el capitan and gentry 75 10 yosemite to ten lakes via yosemite creek 76 11 yosemite to hetch hetchy via yosemite creek, harden lake, and smith meadow 79 12 yosemite to sierra point 81 13 little yosemite 81 14 half dome 83 15 yosemite to glacier point via the ledge trail 85 16 glacier point to sentinel dome 86 17 glacier point to fort monroe via pohono trail 87 18 fort monroe to glacier point via pohono trail 88 19 glacier point to wawona via alder creek trail 90 20 glacier point to ostrander lake 92 21 glacier point to chilnualna falls or johnson lake via the buck camp trail 93 22 glacier point to johnson lake via buena vista trail 94 23 yosemite or glacier point to moraine meadows via merced pass trail 96 24 wawona road to el portal via the sunset trail 97 25 wawona road to el portal via the hennessy trail 98 the yosemite region "by far the grandest of the western ranges is the sierra nevada, a long and massive uplift lying between the arid deserts of the great basin and the californian exuberance of grain-fields and orchards; its eastern slope, a defiant wall of rock plunging abruptly down to the plain; the western, a long, dry sweep, well watered and overgrown with cool, stately forests; its crest a line of sharp, snowy peaks springing into the sky and catching the _alpenglow_ long after the sun has set for all the rest of america."[1] [1] from "mountaineering in the sierra nevada," by charles king. about midway between the north and south ends of this "snowy range" and extending from the ragged summits of its eastern edge to the semi-arid foothills at the west, lies yosemite national park, 1125 square miles of incomparable scenic beauty. yosemite valley, contrary to most peoples' preconceived idea, lies fully 25 miles west of the sierra crest. it is countersunk 4000 feet into the granite of the gently inclined plateau, which above its rim averages from 7000 to 8000 feet in elevation. the characteristics of this region immediately adjacent to yosemite valley are different from those of the high sierra to the past. very little of it is above the timber-line, as the dominating summits--mount hoffman (10,921) at the north, clouds rest (9924) at the east, mount starr king (9179) at the southeast, and horse ridge (9600) at the south--average less than 10,000 feet in altitude. the magnificent forests with which the slopes are clothed are interspersed with perfectly formed granite domes, with meadows and wild-flower gardens, with polished granite pavements, and with innumerable manifestations of nature which give the trails of the region an ever-changing charm. yosemite valley bisecting this district from east to west is the great trough of yosemite valley, its bottom gouged down more than half way to sea level. the same type of geological architecture is exemplified by the hetch hetchy a few miles to the north and by the canyons of the san joaquin, kings and kern to the south. in none of these however, are magnitude, beauty and accessibility so ideally combined as in yosemite. origin as to the origin of these valleys, and of yosemite in particular, there is still some discussion among scientists. whitney's old theory of a great cataclysm and the sinking of a small block of the earth's crust has been entirely displaced, and geologists are now seeking to determine if glaciers have been solely responsible for the present landscape or whether ice and water worked hand in hand. a good summary of the various theories of geological history, as well as a popular discussion of all the geological phenomena of the region, is contained in the "sketch of yosemite national park and an account of the origin of yosemite and hetch hetchy valleys," by dr. f. e. matthes of the u.s. geological survey. this government publication may be obtained in yosemite at the office of the superintendent for ten cents. early history yosemite valley remained undiscovered by white men until in 1850 marauding indian bands from the mountains raided several foothill trading posts. in retaliation the "mariposa battalion" was organized to subdue these mountain tribes and force them into a large reservation, the san joaquin valley. the last to be conquered and the most warlike were the yosemites living in fancied security in their stronghold, the deep grassy valley of "awahnee." it was in pursuit of this tribe that the members of the mariposa battalion first entered yosemite on march 21, 1851. the story of the one-sided campaigns which extended over two summers is well told by dr. w. l. bunnell, the surgeon of the party, in his "discovery of the yosemite and the indian war of 1851" (4th edition, 1911, g. w. gerlicher, los angeles). an excellent summary of the early history of yosemite valley has recently been published as a park service bulletin and may be obtained free at the government information bureau in yosemite. general features of the valley all points of scenic interest are indicated in the road and trail trips, but the following brief discussion of the major features of the valley may serve to orient the new-comer. in this connection the aeroplane-view frontispiece will be found exceedingly useful. first and most impressive are the great rock masses. the square-cut 3200 foot cliff of el capitan at the gates of the valley is regarded by many as the most awe-inspiring of all great rocks; yet others affirm that half dome, a few miles eastward, is just as mighty and far more lovable. the castellated cathedral rocks rising half to two-thirds as high as el capitan on the opposite side of the valley are dwarfed in comparison, but are given an individual personality by their exceptional outline. just eastward, the marvelously delicate pinnacles of the cathedral spires, each towering over 500 feet from its base, stand out from the great south wall. less interesting but very mighty are the three brothers, rising 3800 feet as a great buttress of the north wall. opposite them the sentinel rock, a huge obelisk-like watch tower, guards the south ramparts. at the upper end of the valley the dome formation is dominant. to the north are the rounded summits of north dome, basket dome and mount watkins. the granite walls below them have fractured in great concentric arcs, forming the marvelously symmetrical royal arches, at the east end of which is the striking vertical promontory of washington column. at the edge of the perpendicular cliffs of the south wall is glacier point, the finest lookout point in the valley, and a short distance back from the rim are the symmetrical curves of sentinel dome. yosemite valley is formed by the confluence of two great canyons--tenaya canyon from the northeast and the upper merced canyon from the southeast. between them originates a great backbone ridge which extends many miles to the northeast and exhibits many examples of dome structure and glacial sculpture. lowest of its promontories is the roughly hewn grizzly peak, which is flanked on the east by the well rounded summits and smoothly planed sides of mount broderick and liberty cap. then, standing in massive isolation 5000 feet above the valley and 2000 feet above its immediate base is half dome. further to the northeast along the ridge are the two quarter domes, the pinnacles and clouds rest, the highest summit in the immediate vicinity of yosemite. tenaya canyon, a great glaciated gorge countersunk thousands of feet into the granite, is practically impassable. the main canyon of the merced, however, as it comes from the east, widens to form the little yosemite valley. with its level meadows and sheer granite walls flanked by perfectly formed domes, it is marvelously like yosemite but smaller. further eastward is the high sierra. the waterfalls there are five great waterfalls in yosemite and a number of lesser ones which would be world-famous were it not for the comparison. during the flood waters of spring they are at the height of their beauty, amplifying the living landscape by their many columns and booming power. later, as the snow fountains of the high places are gradually depleted, they take on a more filmy gracefulness but are lacking in exuberant impressiveness. three of the five falls, the bridalveil, yosemite and illilouette, leap from hanging valleys into the main canyon. all of the minor falls are of the same type. vernal and nevada falls, on the other hand, are formed by the entire merced river pouring over great steps in the mighty box canyon at the east end of the valley. first seen and most graceful is the ~bridalveil~, dropping daintily 620 feet at the right portal of the great valley gate. well may we wonder how this charming fall with its exquisite rainbows came to be called pohono or "spirit of the evil wind" by the indians. most famous of all, the highest fall in yosemite and in all the world, is the ~yosemite~. its first sheer plunge of 1430 feet would set it apart as the greatest of its kind, but by a series of six quick jumps it descends another 800 feet to the brink of the final precipice, over which it leaps gracefully 320 feet to the valley floor. seen from below, the 2600-foot drop often appears as one fall though in reality the upper fall is fully one third of a mile back of the lower. in winter a great ice cone, sometimes 500 feet high, forms beneath this upper fall, and its collapse causes riotous ice-floods in early spring. "choolook," which in yosemite dialect meant simply "the fall," has a most changing personality. in late summer and autumn he loses much of his springtime power and obeys every whim of the ever-changing winds. but the most delightful of all his moods may be seen during the time of the full moon when the foot of the lower fall is veiled by the delicate iridescence of lunar rainbows. from the western edge of panorama cliff the lace-like ~illilouette falls~ disappears into its box canyon east of glacier point. the filmy character of its 370-foot foam-curtain is almost never appreciated because of the lack of a proper view-point. the old indian name too-tool-a-we-ack sought to reproduce the sound of gurgling and falling water. ~vernal~ and ~nevada~ pour over the rims of two successive glacial amphitheatres in the main canyon of the merced. both carry a great volume of water and are much less variable than the mural falls. ~vernal~, dropping 317 feet in a wide and unbroken sheet, has often been pronounced the symmetrically perfect of all falls. its foot is always bathed in blowing mists which give rise to most exquisite circular rainbows. referring to the spray, the yosemites called the fall yan-o-pah or "little water cloud." ~nevada~, widely tossing out its spray-rockets, gives a vast impression of power which is probably nowhere equaled except in the grand canyon of the tuolumne. in its descent of 594 feet it strikes a projecting ledge, which caused the indians to name it yo-wy-we or "twisting rock." there is yet another great fall in the yosemite region, but concerning it little is known. it is so inaccessible in the mighty tenaya canyon that it is even nameless, and no one has ever reached its base. seen from afar pouring over a rounded precipice in the canyon bottom it appears to be between 600 and 1000 feet in height. the ~minor falls~ are very beautiful in early spring but all are ephemeral, blooming delightfully with the melting of snows, but dying in summer. largest and best known are the cascade falls, which drop 594 feet over the north wall of the lower merced canyon and form one of the chief objects of interest in the ride from el portal to yosemite. ribbon fall, highest of all, descends delicately in one 1612-foot leap into a recess just west of el capitan. from the rugged south wall widow's tears pours 1170 feet to the rock talus. just west of sentinel rock is a series of picturesque cascades which, in spring, are dignified by the name of sentinel falls. royal arch fall is one of the most beautiful but most ephemeral of the small falls. during sudden rainstorms or usually rapid thaws, supplementary falls pour into the valley over many of its ramparts. john muir describes the storm of 1871 in which fifty-six such cataracts appeared in the upper end of yosemite valley. yosemite village on the banks of the merced where once stood haw-kaw-kooâ´-e-tah, the home of the yo-hamâ´-i-te tribe, is yosemite village. the accompanying map, drawn may 1, 1920, indicates all places of public interest, but on account of contemplated building activities several changes may be expected within the next few seasons. yosemite has recently been granted a second-class postoffice with branches at camp curry and yosemite lodge and with free delivery service to camps on the valley floor. at the u.s. national park service administrative building are the offices of the park superintendent, chief ranger and other executive officers. in front of the building is a free information bureau with a park ranger in charge. government maps and bulletins may here be obtained free or at a very nominal cost. adjacent is a motorists' information bureau maintained by the california state automobile association. at the left entrance is the telegraph and telephone office maintained by the government. the yosemite museum, which contains many excellent exhibits of the flora and fauna of the region is temporarily housed in this building. hotel accommodations in yosemite valley are limited to one hotel and two large hotel-camps. the sentinel hotel in yosemite village, though offering good service and a splendid cuisine, has been outgrown and will soon be superseded by a very much larger and more modern building. camp curry, a large hotel-camp about one mile east of the village on the road to happy isles, is delightfully situated beneath glacier point, an ideal spot from which to view the famous "fire fall," a beautiful cataract of fire which is nightly pushed from the cliff 3000 feet above. the camp has a wide reputation for its democratic atmosphere. [illustration: map of yosemite village. legend = road === sec. road --footpath 1. p.o. and general store 2. boyson studio 3. foley studio 4. n.p.s. office 5. best studio 6. government pavilion 7. y.n.p. co. office 8. ivy cottage 9. sentinel hotel 10. cedar cottage 11. river cottage 12. rock cottage 13. native son sequoia 14. fiske house 15. bakery and creamery 16. butcher shop 17. pillsbury studio 18. chapel 19. garage 20. foot bridge 21. sentinel bridge 22. old jorgensen studio 23. grizzly hotel site 24. new administration bldg. site 25. ranger's clubhouse 26. government barns & shops 27. zoo 28. government cottages 29. old camp lost arrow 30. school house 31. camp yosemite 32. camp yos. swimming pool 33. government cottages 34. superintendent's house 35. yosemite hospital] yosemite lodge, formerly called yosemite camp, is the other large hotel-camp, and is located one-half mile north of yosemite village near the azalia-bordered yosemite creek. it offers most attractive views of yosemite falls and is well maintained by the yosemite national park company. at the rim of the valley is glacier point hotel with every modern convenience, and an unsurpassable view of yosemite and the high sierra. lodges are maintained at the mariposa grove of big trees and at lake tenaya and merced lake in the high sierra. the general store is adequately stocked to supply the tourist and camper with all his needs--supplies, clothing, sporting goods, drugs, etc. the housekeeping camps department supplies all kinds of camping or outing equipment at very reasonable rates. opposite the store is the bakery and creamery, and the meat market. during the season of 1920 the general garage will be moved from its location near yosemite lodge to a point just southeast of the new rangers' club house. a large free storage garage is maintained by camp curry. gasoline and oils may be obtained at several service stations on the floor of the valley and at a few outposts on the park roads. the government pavilion, on the banks of the merced near the center of the village, is a social center for dances, lectures, moving pictures, etc. there is also an excellent entertainment and dance hall at camp curry. religious services are held in yosemite chapel which faces the postoffice. in the village are four studios, two of them doing photographic work exclusively, and the other two specializing in oils and water-colors. studios are also maintained at yosemite lodge and camp curry. there are two large swimming tanks, one at yosemite lodge and one at camp curry. both are open to the general public. between the village and camp curry is the picturesque le conte memorial lodge, which is sustained by the sierra club. the yosemite library is housed here and hundreds of photographs, flower specimens, maps, etc., make the building a favorite of the thousands of visitors. each year the extension division of the university of california arranges a series of "le conte memorial lectures," which are here delivered. they are exceptionally interesting and all well attended, for in them the most eminent scientific authorities interpret the natural history, folklore, geology and other subjects exemplified by the yosemite region. north of the merced and about a third of a mile from the center of the village is the schoolhouse and a group of other government buildings. one of these is the menagerie and contains several wild animals captured in the region. the chief exhibits are a pair of california mountain lions, and a number of bear. in this vicinity is also the quaint old yosemite cemetery, where rest many of the pioneers of the early days. near yosemite lodge is the yosemite hospital with a competent physician and surgeon in charge. during part of the season a dentist is also in attendance. about twenty camp grounds have been prepared for the free use of the public by the park service. water is piped to these localities and a sanitation system provided for. applications for camp sites should be made at the national park service office in yosemite village. those without outfits, who desire to establish camps, may arrange at the housekeeping camps department of the yosemite national park company (at camp 17, a quarter mile east of sentinel bridge and north of the river) to rent all necessary equipment. this will be delivered and set up ready for occupancy. it is advisable to arrange in advance for the outfit desired. an auto-bus service (fare 10c and 25c) to all points on the valley floor provides a quick and convenient means of transportation. all main roads are paralleled by trails for the use of pedestrians. information as to the hiring of horses and automobiles, arrangements for camping tours, and about many other items of general interest, is contained in the "circular of general information regarding yosemite national park," which may be obtained free at any of the government information bureaus. yosemite roads the roads of yosemite have just passed their initial stage of development. most of the 138 miles of road in the park were built for old-time stage coaches and for horse travel. with the advent of the motor has come a second period--that of reconstruction and improvement. the highway from el portal to yosemite and the roads on the floor of the valley illustrate the type of present-day construction; but it must be remembered with indulgence that such roads are just beginning to be, and that most of the park routes, although not at all bad, are yet mountain roads. let us assume that the motorist is now in yosemite. besides the routes to the low country, the following scenic trips may be taken within the park: 1. a tour of the valley. 2. el portal and return. 3. glacier point. 4. the mariposa big trees. 5. tuolumne big trees. 6. hetch hetchy. 7. lake tenaya and the high sierra route to mono lake and tahoe. each of these (except number four) is described in the following road trips. road trip i el portal to yosemite _via_ el capitan road (15 miles--1-1/4 hours by stage) most charming because of the climax of ever-increasing scenic beauty and grandeur, is the fifteen-mile ride from el portal up the gorge of the merced to yosemite. it is rather to be regretted that modern auto-busses hurry us over the new highway in less than an hour and a half, giving us scarce time to appreciate the majesty and beauty of the ever-changing panorama. leaving ~el portal~, the road parallels the north bank of the merced, passing beneath gnarled oaks and silver-gray digger pines. in the high water of early spring, indian creek, across the canyon, descends over the picturesque ~chinquapin falls~. entering the gateway of yosemite national park, we follow up the riotous merced river, noting here and there a hardy yellow pine or an incense cedar venturing down to the canyon bottom. about two miles inside the park is ~avalanche falls~ across the river. the trail bridge below is the crossing of the sunset trail, which ascends past the foot of the fall and climbs 2500 feet to the wawona road. a short distance up the canyon the road passes beneath ~arch rock~, a natural tunnel formed by huge blocks of granite. just beyond, grouse creek descends the south canyon wall by a series of cascades. we have now entered the true mountain forest, and ride beneath yellow pines, incense cedars, douglas firs and now and then a true fir. ~elephant rock~ towers above and to the right. just below it is ~battleship harbor~, a placid stretch of the merced in which fancied granite dreadnaughts ride anchor. at the left the old ~coulterville road~ steeply descends the canyon wall and joins the main highway. this first road to yosemite was opened in 1874 and was for years the main stage route from merced. for the benefit of those who require entertainment the chauffeur often points out the image of a white persian cat on the rock wall to the left. a short distance beyond and on the same side of the road are ~wildcat falls~. crossing two small bridges we obtain the best view of elephant rock down the canyon. at the left are the ~cascade falls~, during the flood waters of early spring one of yosemite's most beautiful cataracts. the top of the cascade is 594 feet above the road. about a half mile further is ~pulpit rock~, on the south side of the river. it is best viewed by driving beyond and then looking back down the canyon. below the road and at the right is the government power plant, where the water from the merced drives two thousand-kilowatt electric generators. the intake and dam are passed further up the canyon. three thousand feet above, the ephemeral ~widow's tears fall~ drops 1170 feet from the rugged ramparts of the south wall. another mile takes us past the site of the old indian village ah-wah-ma to ~pohono bridge~. from this point two roads ascend the valley, one on either side of the river. the more picturesque pohono road runs up the south side of the canyon. this is described in road trip i-a. the ~el capitan road~, following up the north side of the valley will first be traced. a short distance from the bridge we are treated to a most impressive view of the ~gates of the valley~. at the left the sheer 3300-foot precipice of ~el capitan~ dominates the entire landscape. its majesty is matched by the beauty of the ~bridalveil fall~ and ~cathedral rocks~ opposite. between them is nature's threshold, the brilliantly verdant ~bridalveil meadows~, dotted with dark green pines and oaks. beyond, ~half dome~ is partly hidden by the projecting cliff of ~glacier point~ at the right. the summit of the lofty bare granite ridge in the distance is ~clouds rest~, the highest point on the yosemite walls. if the winter snows be still melting above the rim we will see at the left the ~ribbon fall~ dropping delicately over its 1612-foot precipice into a recess just west of el capitan. its indian name was lung-oo-too-koo-ya, or "pigeon fall." near its base the ~big oak flat road~ branches to the left and ascends thru the piles of shattered granite talus of the north wall. at this point was the indian village, hep-hepâ´-oo-ma. the road to the right leads past the el capitan checking station and across ~el capitan bridge~ to the bridalveil road (road trip ~i-a~) south of the river. continuing up the north road we pass thru ~el capitan meadows~, where were the indian villages of awâ´-o-koi-e, he-leâ´-jah, ha-engâ´-ah and yu-aâ´-chah. as we skirt the base of the almost vertical wall, the stage driver will generally point out more or less interesting images. chief among these is tote-ack-ah-noo-la, the "rock chief" of the indians, whose title was translated into spanish to make the present name. in a shallow niche 1189 feet above the road stands a hardy jeffrey pine 82.4 feet in height and two feet in diameter. across the river are the massive ~cathedral rocks~ and the delicately pinnacled ~cathedral spires~. further up the canyon the massively sculptured pyramids, the ~three brothers~, rise abruptly to the north. opposite them the road to the ~bear pits~ turns into the woods. turning northeast, our road passes ~rocky point~ at their base. this is we-ã¤ck, the place where chief tenaya's three sons were captured in 1851. one mile beyond is ~yosemite lodge~, one of the two large hotel-camps of the valley. the main buildings occupy the site of koom-iâ´-ne, the largest and most important of the old indian villages. just northward the ~yosemite fall~ makes its triple plunge of 2600 feet, the highest waterfall in the world. the upper fall drops 1430 feet sheer. crossing the azalia-bordered ~yosemite creek~, the road skirts a wide meadow and turns sharply across the valley. to the left is a magnificent panorama of the ~royal arches~, ~north dome~, ~washington column~ and the precipice of ~glacier point~. at the right the great obelisk of ~the sentinel~ rises from the south wall. crossing sentinel bridge to ~yosemite village~ we halt at the ~sentinel hotel~ which, with the cottages opposite, occupies the site of the old indian village haw-kaw-kooâ´-e-tah, the home of the band called yo-hamâ´-i-te, for whom the valley was named. a short distance beyond is the office of the u.s. national park service, where all campers should stop and register. we continue up the canyon, now paralleling the south river margin thru a beautiful pine, fir and cedar forest. thru the trees we now and then catch a glimpse of the ~quarter domes~ beyond the dominating ~half dome~, and finally the summit of ~clouds rest~. three-quarters of a mile from the village is the picturesque ~sierra club lodge~ at the right of the road. a short distance further is ~camp curry~, delightfully situated among the giant pines and cedars at the base of the towering cliff of glacier point. at this spot was the large indian village of too-yuâ´-yuâ´-yu, and a short distance to the northeast in the meadow was too-lahâ´-kahâ´-mah. this famous hostelry, camp curry, is the final destination of all stages. the road continues up the canyon to happy isles. road trip i-a pohono bridge to yosemite _via_ bridalveil road (5 miles--20 minutes by stage) the ~bridalveil road~, ascending the south side of the valley, is scenically superior to the north, or el capitan road. crossing pohono bridge to the south side of the merced the road immediately enters a dense and beautiful forest. a short distance takes us to ~fern spring~, justly famous for the purity of its ice cold water. one-half mile beyond we suddenly emerge at ~bridalveil meadows~, obtaining a most charming view of the gates of the valley. at the right, ~bridalveil fall~ leaps 630 feet from its hanging valley, the one side of which is formed by the massively sculptured ~cathedral rocks~, and the other by a solid granite ridge terminating at ~leaning tower~, another eminence of the turreted south wall. on the opposite side of the canyon rises the sheer face of ~el capitan~. in the recess at its west the evanescent streamer of ~ribbon fall~ descends in a lace-like film. at the edge of the meadow about 100 feet north of the road a dense grove of oaks and pines shelters the graves of two pioneers, rose and shurban, who were massacred here by the indians in may, 1852. near the river was once the indian village of sap-pahâ´-sam-mah. the road now passes near ~bridalveil fall~, charming glimpses of which are now and then revealed. a subsidiary road turns to the right and leads to the foot of the falls. this short side trip should be taken by all visitors. just below a very large rock at the east margin of the stream is the site of the ancient village of lem-meâ´-hitchâ´-ke. in view of this fact, our stories of the indians' great fear of pohono, "the spirit of the evil wind," may be somewhat overdrawn. just below the imposing buttress of the lowermost of the cathedral rocks is ~el capitan bridge~, and near it ~lo-to-ya~ (flower) ~spring~. north of the river is el capitan checking station and the terminus of the ~big oak flat road~ (road trip iv). east of cathedral rocks we are treated to a sudden view of the two marvelously slender ~cathedral spires~, each rising 500 feet from its base and appearing to tower even above the yosemite rim. directly opposite across ~el capitan meadows~ is a most comprehensive view of the mighty wall of tote-ack-ah-noo-la, the "rock chief" of the indians, whose title was merely translated into spanish to make the present name. chauffeurs often point out the likeness of the chief and other more or less imaginary mural images. in a shallow niche 1189 feet above the road stands a hardy jeffrey pine 82.4 feet high and two feet in diameter. in driving beneath the oaks, alders, pines and firs we enjoy ever-changing vistas across the placid river. ~three brothers~, massively piled promontories of the north wall, are least harshly seen from this road. directly ahead rises the watchtower of ~sentinel rock~. at its west flank the transitory ~sentinel fall~ descends in a series of cascades during the spring thaws. below sentinel rock we pass the site of galen clark's cabin, of old camp awahnee, and of the more ancient indian village of loi'-ah. about one and a quarter miles further is yosemite village. all campers should register at the national park service headquarters. road trip ii a tour of the floor of the valley (9 miles--2 hours ride--1/2 to 1 day walk) every yosemite visitor should spend at least one day within the valley itself before beginning the more strenuous trail trips. there is so much to be seen from the valley floor that weeks might be spent there were it not for "the call of the high country" beyond the walls. the following itinerary includes a visit to most places of interest in the upper (east) end of the valley: sentinel bridge, indian village, royal arches, washington column, indian cave, mirror lake, half dome, mineral springs, tenaya bridge, happy isles, camp curry and le conte memorial lodge, in the order mentioned. road trips i and vi describe the region west of the village. the following excursion may be made by motor in two or three hours. hikers will find it a moderately long half-day tramp or a leisurely one-day ramble. an early start should be made in order to see the sunrise at mirror lake. it is well to ascertain the hour beforehand, for this varies with the season of the year. from ~yosemite village~ we cross sentinel bridge and follow the poplar-bordered road across the meadow. straight ahead is ~yosemite fall~ and the ~lost arrow~, and at our right a most comprehensive view of ~north dome~, the ~royal arches~, ~washington column~, ~half dome~ and ~glacier point~. at the grizzly hotel site the el capitan road (road trip vi) branches westward, while our route turns up the canyon. the distant buildings to the left of the road are the government barns, shops and warehouses. in this group is the menagerie which will well repay a subsequent visit. nearer is the picturesque old cemetery where many pioneers of the region lie at rest. a little farther eastward on the largest open level area in yosemite is the site of the important old village of ah-wahâ´-ne, from which the valley took its indian name. continuing along the ~royal arch road~ we soon pass the new rangers' club house. just beyond, a cross road to the right leads to the garage. to the northward, high overhead, are the silhouettes of the ~castle cliffs~, and at their east the deep cleft of ~indian canyon~ which, to the yosemite tribe, was "le hammo" because of the arrowwood which grew there. along the precipitous cliffs of the east wall ran their main trail into yosemite from the north. from the valley floor at the base of a cliff just west of the royal arches they first climbed a large oak and then made their way along narrow ledges toward the northwest. it was at this oak that old chief tenaya was captured in 1851 by lieutenant chandler and the scout sandino. at the mouth of indian canyon is ~yoâ´-watch-ke~, the only indian village in the valley which is still occupied. during the july celebrations it is picturesquely alive but at other times the few dirty oâ´-chums are almost repulsive. this area on the alluvial fan of indian creek is the warmest spot in the valley and botanists will here find many plants typical of the lower altitudes. a short distance further we pass camp 17 at the right of the road. about a quarter of a mile beyond and on the opposite side is camp 20. at a road junction is a small settlement called kenneyville, which occupies the site of the former indian camp of wisâ´-kah-lah. here the ~le conte road~ turns south, leading to camps 15 and 7, and across stoneman bridge to camp curry on the happy isles road. doubling back to the westward is ~sequoia lane~, a road leading to camps 6 and 7, and to yosemite village, one mile distant. we continue eastward, passing camp 8, which is above the road and just at the west end of the ~royal arches~. during the spring thaw the beautiful but ephemeral ~royal arch fall~ descends over a cliff at the left. its indian name, scho-ko-ya, meant "basket fall." in the next half mile our road is flanked by the overhanging cornices of the colossal arches. they must be viewed from afar if we would realize how aptly they were called by the yosemites "scho-ko-ni," which means "the movable shade to a cradle basket." at the left of the road and directly beneath the arches is camp 9. as we continue along the road, breaks in the forest reveal intermittent views of ~washington column~ towering above to the left, and of the great face of ~half dome~ dominating all the east. a short subsidiary road to the left now leads to ~indian cave~ immediately under washington column. the yosemites named this retreat holâ´-lowâ´, but sometimes called it lah-kooâ´-hah, which means "come out!" it is a low, broad, deep recess under a huge rock and is said to have been occupied as a winter shelter; also when the yosemites were attacked and almost exterminated by the mono lake piutes. the overhanging rock is black with the smoke of ages, and far back in the cave large quantities of acorn shells have been found. returning the short distance to the main road, we again turn eastward, soon passing a group of excellent mineral springs at the right. the highway now bears gradually to the north into the mouth of ~tenaya canyon~ and in one-half mile ends in a "loop" at the west margin of ~mirror lake~. the relative darkness in this deep canyon and the absence of wind during the early morning hours insures a perfect reflection for almost every morning of the vacation season. most perfect are the reflections of ~mount watkins~ (the wei-yow or "juniper mountain" of the yosemites) guarding the entrance to the forbidden gorge of tenaya. unfortunately the delta of tenaya creek has greatly encroached upon the mirror and has reduced it to but a remnant of the beautiful lake which the indians called ah-weiâ´-yo, or "quiet water." from the end of the road the tenaya lake and north dome trail (trail trips 4 and 6) continue around the western shore of the lake and up the canyon. after the appearance of the sun over the shoulder of half dome, we retrace the last half mile of our route, turning aside for a short visit to the mineral springs. a little distance further the main road forks and we take the left-hand branch which crosses ~tenaya bridge~. a detour to the westward now takes us around and over a portion of the lateral moraine left at the junction of the ancient tenaya and merced glaciers. near this point was hoo-keâ´-hahtch-keâ´, an indian village inhabited up to about 1897. a road which branches to the right offers a short-cut to camp curry, about three-quarters of a mile distant. it passes camps 11 and 14, and the site of the lick house, one of the inns of early days. the main road, however, bears to the left and parallels the beautiful banks of the merced. less than a mile takes us to the ~happy isles bridge~. here the main trail to vernal and nevada falls, glacier point, half dome, clouds rest, merced lake, etc. (see trail trips), turns south and ascends the ~merced canyon~. at the right of the bridge is a u.s. weather bureau observation station. on the west side of the stream is the old power plant and from it starts the footpath to ~happy isles~. the short side trip from island to island should not be missed. especially are these charming garden spots noted for the beauty of their flowering dogwoods, maples and alders. the round trip to sierra point (trail trip 12) may easily be accomplished from this point in one hour. a refreshment stand is maintained in the vicinity. to escape the dust of the road one may follow the picturesque ~happy isles trail~ from its beginning near the power house to camp curry, one mile westward. our road now bears to the northwest and rounds the imposing buttress of ~glacier point~. one-half mile takes us to a spring at the left of the road which once supplied the large indian village of umâ´-ma-taw. a short distance beyond, our route is joined by the short-cut road from mirror lake. near this road is a cabin often pointed out as having belonged to john muir. it was really built and used by james c. lamon, a pioneer and the first permanent resident of the valley. muir's cabin has long since disappeared and its only existing photograph is in the possession of dr. wm. f. badã©. the orchard at the right occupies the site of tooâ´-lahâ´-kahâ´-mah, another vanished community of the yosemite tribe. extending for a considerable distance along the road are the tents and bungalows of ~camp curry~. if we have time to stop, we may be refreshed by a swim in the huge open-air swimming pool, by cooling drinks at the soda fountain or by a rest beneath the great pines and cedars. from the camp center a road to the north leads across the stoneman bridge to kenneyville. at the right of the road is the site of the old stoneman hotel, which was built and maintained in the early days by the state of california, but which burned down in 1896. close to the bridge, on the banks of the merced, was once the large indian village of too-yuâ´-yuâ´-yu. west of the camp curry bungalows we pass camp 16, between the road and the river. near this point the ~ledge trail~ turns to the south and mounts the talus slopes above camp curry. a short distance beyond is the new ~le conte memorial lodge~ picturesquely set among the pines and incense cedars where once was the indian village of ho-low, and where the old schoolhouse stood until 1911. the lodge is an ideal place to spend the remainder of the afternoon amongst photographs, flowers, books and maps, and in a cool and absolutely restful atmosphere. to the right of the road, where the river makes a big detour to the north, is camp 19. one should note the remarkably perfect reflections in the river below the rock wall parapet during the remaining half-mile walk to yosemite village. road trip iii yosemite to glacier point _via_ chinquapin road (28 miles--4 to 5 hours by auto) a trip to glacier point should be part of everyone's yosemite itinerary. many motorists prefer to make the excursion by road instead of by trail. the round trip from yosemite can be made by machine in one day, but it is better to reserve accommodations in advance at the glacier point hotel and remain there over night to view the sunrise over the high sierra. another excellent plan is to send one's machine around by road while one walks or rides to glacier point via the vernal and nevada falls trail (trail trip 1), returning to the valley via chinquapin road. the description of the first 14.5 miles of this trip, which follows the wawona road as far as chinquapin, will be of interest to those leaving yosemite by that route. from yosemite village we follow the ~bridalveil road~ (road trip vi-a) down the valley four and a half miles to the bridalveil checking station, where the wawona road turns to the left. here all motorists must register. for safety the park regulations permit the ascent on even hours only, and at a speed of not more than twelve miles per hour. we now climb steadily beneath a dense forest of pines, fir, incense cedar, oak and laurel, and at one and a half miles halt at ~artist point~ (alt. 4701, 750 feet above the valley floor). the view of the ~gates of the valley~ to the east is claimed to be one of the most perfect of all yosemite landscapes. gradually climbing another 690 feet we finally halt at ~inspiration point~ (alt. 5391). the view of yosemite is similar to that from artist point, but with the depths and distances more impressively accentuated. across the canyon is ~fireplace bluff~. a view-finder beside the road indicates each point of interest. all machines should be registered at the government checking station. telephone communication and water are here available. about half a mile beyond inspiration point is ~fort monroe~ (alt. 5540), an old-time stage relay station. this is a fair campsite for auto parties. a good spring will be found near the pohono trail junction. the visit to the wild-flower gardens and many fine lookout points of the ~pohono trail~ (trail trip 18) is an especially fine one-day walking trip from this point. our road now leads thru most magnificent pine forests, which open now and then to give us short glimpses of the canyon of the merced, thousands of feet below. about two miles from fort monroe the ~hennessy trail~ (trail trip 25) branches to the right and descends to el portal, ten miles distant. ~grouse creek crossing~, a half mile further, is a good auto camp. fishing is fair downstream. another two miles takes us to ~avalanche creek~. there are here no camping places and the stream contains no trout. _caution_: the worst turn on the road is about 200 yards beyond the crossing. one mile beyond avalanche creek the ~sunset trail~ (trail trip 24) leaves the road at the right, descending to the mid-winter ranger station near arch rock on the el portal road. one mile further is ~chinquapin~, an old stage relay station at the junction of the glacier point and wawona roads. there is here a ranger station and during the summer gas and oil can be obtained. in the vicinity are many good camp sites. an excellent spring will be found 200 yards north of the ranger cabin. fishing is fair in ~indian creek~ about a quarter of a mile southward; best fishing is downstream. many deer are generally to be seen in the region. chinquapin is especially noted for its wonderful sunsets. before leaving, all machines should take water. the main road continues southward to wawona and the mariposa grove of big trees and thence to merced, madera and fresno. our route turns eastward and climbs abruptly 1300 feet in the next three miles to the head of the canyon of indian creek. this long, hard grade takes us to the 7500-foot level, where we are at last on the gently sloping plateau above the valley walls. the following eleven miles is a delightful succession of mountain meadows and forests of red fir, lodgepole pine and other sub-alpine species. numbers of deer can almost always be seen from the road, especially early in the morning. ~peregoy meadow~, about five miles from chinquapin, was famous in the early days for its wayside inn on the "yosemite trail" from clarke's (now wawona). the old buildings have long since disappeared, but the trail, now called the ~alder creek trail~ (trail trip 19), is still used. from peregoy meadow to glacier point are many fine camp sites. about one mile eastward is ~bridalveil creek crossing~. fishing is good upstream, and fair about one mile downstream, but generally poor near the road. at a trail junction about one and a half miles further, the ~ostrander lake and buck camp trail~ (trail trips 20 and 21) turns southward (right). here one may park his machine and walk to ~ostrander lake~ via trail trip 20 and return, a fifteen mile one-day round trip. the lake offers some of the best fishing in this section of the park. swinging gradually to the northeast the road passes to the east of ~ostrander rocks~. a trail to the right leads to mono meadow and the basin of the illilouette. three miles further at ~pothole meadows~ the ~peregoy meadow trail~ (trail trip 19) leaves the road at the left. a short distance beyond and at the same side of the road is the ~pohono trail~ turn-off (trail trip 17). a half mile further, just as the road starts its final descent to glacier point, is a trail to the left leading to ~sentinel dome~. the summit is but a few minutes distant and from it is revealed a vast panorama of the high sierra. a gradual descent in the final one and a half miles takes us past several lookout points to the road termination at ~glacier point hotel~. excellent accommodations are here obtainable. the overhanging rock and ~glacier point~ are 200 yards northward. (for trips from glacier point see trail trips 1, 2, and 16 to 23.) road trip iv yosemite to tenaya lake, tuolumne meadows and mono lake _via_ big oak flat and tioga roads (lake tenaya 57.7 miles. tuolumne meadows 65.2 miles. mono lake 88.2 miles) most charmingly scenic of all trans-sierran routes is the historic old ~tioga road~. built by chinese labor in 1881 to transport ore from the tioga mine (near mono lake) across the sierra to the san joaquin valley, it soon fell into decay when the venture was abandoned. in 1915 the road was purchased by a group of public-spirited citizens and presented to the government. since being well repaired it makes yosemite accessible from the east and opens up the wonderfully fine camping country of the high sierra to the automobile tourist. hundreds of motorists take this exceptionally scenic short-cut to lake tahoe. in normal years the road opens july 15th and closes september 30th. detailed information may be obtained from the "circular of general information regarding yosemite national park," or at the motorists' information bureau in yosemite village. the first twenty-three miles of the following trip describes the big oak flat road as far as carl inn, and should be of use to auto parties leaving the park by that route. from yosemite we may follow either the ~bridalveil~ or the ~el capitan road~ westward. at el capitan bridge, four miles west of the village, the ~big oak flat~ road turns abruptly northward. all machines should be registered at the nearby checking station. for safety, the park regulations permit the ascent on even hours only and at a speed of not more than twelve miles per hour. gradually mounting the talus slope of the rough canyon side, we emerge 1200 feet above the valley floor at ~new inspiration point~ from which is our last comprehensive view of the ~gates of the valley~. the outlook, although scenically not as perfect as that from the wawona road, is nevertheless quite attractive, for the depths below when viewed from this point seem almost always to be permeated by a transparent blue haze. near the top of the steady four-mile climb is ~gentry checking station~, where motorists should again register. this is a possible camp for motorists but rather a poor location. one-half mile further is the "gentry townsite," laid out about 1914, and beyond, the site of the old gentry sawmill. there are here a few good places for auto camps. water will be found at a spring above the road. ~cascade creek~ is crossed a short distance northward. the crossing offers no good camp sites. fishing is fair. the short steep grade beyond the bridge is known locally as "fords' rest." we now ascend ~lilly creek~ to the crossing about half a mile above. here the blazes of the old ~mono trail~ may be seen at the left leading down to a point on the rim of the canyon about three miles distant, where was once the terminus of the coulterville road. in the early days this was one of the chief routes used by the indians and cattlemen. two miles beyond cascade creek is ~tamarack flat~ (alt. 6390), named from the "tamarack" or lodgepole pine here so abundant. this is a splendid camping place, but somewhat cold. fishing is fair and horse feed may be found upstream. a trail branching to the right leads to ~aspen valley~, six miles distant. it is extremely brushy, poorly marked and almost impassable. three miles westward is ~gin flat~, the summit of the big oak flat road. the meadow, bordered by red and white fir and jeffrey and lodgepole pine, offers an attractive but cold campsite. there is a tradition that a barrel of gin was once buried here by one of the old-time whiskey peddlers, who was shortly afterwards killed. a more or less desultory search on the part of not a few "old-timers" failed to discover the prize, so after a few decades the matter became almost legendary. but in 1909, as a battalion of negro cavalry were marching to yosemite for patrol duty, the tradition was in some way "picked up" in groveland by one of the troopers. the commanding officer could hardly understand why his troops pushed on so readily the next day until, when camp was pitched at gin flat, they started to dig. not a stone in the vicinity was left unturned--but the gin was never found. at ~crane flat~ (alt. 6311) two miles further west are many excellent camp sites. this camping ground is the one nearest to the ~tuolumne grove of big trees~. water is conveniently piped from a spring to the vicinity of the ranger cabin. it is a good plan, if camp is to be made at crane flat, to gather firewood _en route_, for it is scarce in the immediate region. motorists should register at the log cabin of the park ranger, and all east-bound cars should take water. a road branching southwestward leads to ~hazel green~, about five miles distant on the coulterville road, and to the ~merced grove of big trees~, seven and a half miles away. it is narrow and steep, but in fair condition. about a quarter of a mile from crane flat the ~davis~ (private) ~road~ turns to the left from the hazel green cut-off and leads to ~big meadows~ (4.5 miles) and ~el portal~ (11.5 miles). the main road bears to the north a short distance after leaving crane flat and, after one mile of steep descent, enters the ~tuolumne grove of sequoias~. most of the thirty trees in the small grove are advantageously seen from the road, but a short side trip to the tunnelled ~dead giant~ (above and to the right) is well worth while. this subsidiary road is steep and narrow and most people prefer to walk to the giant. one-half mile below the grove the main road passes beneath the rustic gateway which marks the boundary between ~yosemite national park~ and the ~stanislaus national forest~. there are two possible auto camps in the next mile, but neither are very good. bearing westward the road follows down the canyon of ~north crane creek~. good camp sites will be found at the crossing about two miles below the park line. ~hogdon ranch~, a little more than a mile further, is another good place to camp. at this abandoned cattle ranch an old road branches to the left. it is impassable because of washouts. a mile and a half further along the main road is ~carl inn~, a mountain summer resort on the ~south fork of the tuolumne river~. accommodations are excellent. gasoline and oil may here be obtained. there are many fine camp sites in the vicinity and fishing is fair. one may obtain saddle or pack animals at the hotel for trail trips in the region. just west from the hotel is a main road junction. the ~big oak flat road~ to chinese camp, knights ferry and stockton continues down the south fork, while our road crosses the new england bridge and bears northward. one mile takes us to another junction where the ~hetch hetchy road~ (road trip v) branches to the left. the tioga road turns eastward, ascends a rather steep grade thru a fine forest of pine, cedar and oak, and in 4.2 miles again enters the park at ~aspen valley ranger station~. motorists should stop and register. a government telephone is here available. there are excellent camping places in the vicinity and a good spring about two hundred yards northwest of the ranger cabin. two miles inside the park is ~aspen valley~, another abandoned cattle ranch. the long meadow offers a delightful camp. the ~carlin trail~, which is used chiefly by cattlemen, branches to the westward at this point and makes a rough descent to ~ackerson meadow~ six miles distant. leading southeast is a trail to ~tamarack flat~ on the big oak flat road. over most of its six miles it is so brushy as to be almost impassable and it is now little used. about one mile north of aspen valley the seldom used "~packers' trail~" begins at the left of the road and bears northward toward ~hetch hetchy~. from aspen valley eastward good camping places are so numerous that several will be passed each hour. they will therefore not be mentioned in the following text. our road now ascends ~long gulch~, passes over a low divide, and in 4.2 miles crosses the ~middle fork of the tuolumne river~. this is an attractive auto camp but horse feed is scarce. the stream is well stocked with rainbow and eastern brook trout. we now follow along the well-wooded banks of the middle fork and in about three and a half miles, where the road makes a big bend toward the southeast, we find the beginning of the trail to ~harden lake~, ~hetch hetchy~, and ~the grand canyon of the tuolumne~. the beautiful little ~harden lake~ (alt. 7575) is only one mile distant by trail. it is a most attractive place to lunch and the round trip can easily be made in less than one hour. from points just north of the lake a most comprehensive view of the grand canyon of the tuolumne is revealed. harden lake contains no trout. ~white wolf~, some two miles beyond the harden lake trail junction, is one of the many fine meadows which our road now traverses. the old ~ten lakes trail~ shown on the u.s.g.s. maps as leading eastward from this point has been superseded by the new ~ten lakes trail~ up yosemite creek. the old blazes may be followed eastward two and a half miles to ~lukens lake~ (alt. 8450), a charming little mountain lakelet surrounded by a park-like forest. it has not yet been stocked with trout. about three miles beyond white wolf the ~yosemite creek trail~ (trail trip 11) branches to the right (south). yosemite is ten miles distant by this excellent trail. passing several small meadows, one of which is ~dark hole~, we descend in about two miles to ~yosemite creek ranger cabin~. the station is connected by telephone to yosemite. from here a good trail bears to the southwest and joins the main yosemite creek trail one and a half miles below. good camp sites are numerous in the vicinity and at the ~yosemite creek crossing~, about a quarter of a mile eastward, the new ~ten lakes trail~ follows up the east bank of the creek. our road now ascends about two and a half miles of heavy grades, finally passing over a flat divide and descending almost imperceptibly to the large meadows at ~porcupine flat~, an excellent camping place. one mile further the ~yosemite falls trail~ branches to the right and leads southwest five miles to ~yosemite point~. in another mile ~snow creek~ is crossed. fishing is fair down stream. ~snow flat~, two and a half miles further, is an especially good place to camp. it is the usual base camp for the ascent of ~mount hoffman~ (alt. 10,921), three miles to the northwest. ~may lake~ (alt. 9400) is about one mile north of the road by a plainly blazed but rough trail which climbs about 500 feet _en route_. beautifully set in the rugged glacial amphitheatre at the east shoulder of mount hoffman, which towers imposingly above, it offers one of the most attractive side trips of the region. as a campsite it is unsurpassed. in the days when troops were guardians of the park this was the officers' private fishing lake--and fishing is most excellent. it was stocked with loch leven trout in 1908, with eastern brook in 1908 and 1917, and with rainbow in 1908 and 1913. from ~snow flat~ the road rises abruptly for a short distance, then descends 800 feet in the next three miles to ~lake tenaya~. near a sharp bend in the road about one mile from the lake, a trail to the right (trail trip 5) leads to yosemite via mirror lake. ~tenaya lake~ (alt. 8141) is one of the gems of the high sierra. it is a large, deep, glacial lake imposingly surrounded by granite crags and domes. its indian name, py-we-ack, meant "lake of the glistening rocks," referring to the glacier polished granite at its upper end. the lake and the pyramidal peak to the east were renamed tenaya when the last remnant of chief tenaya's yosemite tribe was captured here by the mariposa battalion on june 5, 1851. the lake is one of the best in the park for a permanent auto camp. it was stocked with loch leven trout in 1911 and with rainbow, eastern brook, black spotted, and steelhead in 1917, 1918, and 1919, but fishing is only fair. from the lower end of the lake the ~forsyth pass trail~ (trail trip 6) bears eastward across the rocky meadows, and the ~yosemite trail~ (trail trip 5) takes off toward the southwest. our road skirts the western lake shore. at a point where ~murphy creek~ enters from the north are the ruins of a log cabin which was built by john l. murphy, one of the early pioneer guides of the region. the ~mcgee lake trail~ to ~waterwheel falls~ here turns off from the road. rounding the polished base of ~polly dome~ (alt. 9786) we finally halt at ~tenaya lake lodge~ near the white beach at the lake's upper extremity. accommodations are excellent and fishing tackle and rowboats may be rented. at the head of the long flat canyon bottom is a peculiar glacial monument often mistaken for polly dome. passing this, our road continues up the stream to its source, where the great tuolumne glacier overflowed and sent a branch southward to help carve out the stupendous depths of tenaya canyon. ~tuolumne meadows~ (alt. 8594), the most superb of all high mountain pleasure grounds, lies seven and a half miles from tenaya lake. in the region are innumerable side trips to alpine summits, to lakes and streams teeming with trout, to thundering waterfalls, and to peaceful green pastures of the highlands. ~tioga pass~ (alt. 9941) is seven miles further, and another sixteen miles takes us down leevining canyon to the weird semi-desert region at ~mono lake~. the road then continues northward to ~lake tahoe~ about 118 miles distant. road trip v yosemite to hetch hetchy _via_ big oak flat road and hetch hetchy railroad (round trip 77 miles--1 day by motor and railroad) a new and exceptionally scenic one-day round trip between yosemite and hetch hetchy has been made possible by the construction activities on the san francisco dam. throughout the entire season a gasoline railroad bus runs on daily schedule between mather (hog ranch) and hetch hetchy, stopping long enough to allow one to view the wonderful canyon and to inspect the enormous engineering project. one may motor privately from yosemite to mather or may ride by the auto stage, which makes one round trip daily. from yosemite we follow the ~big oak flat road~ (road trips vi and iv) to the road junction one mile north of ~carl inn~, a resort on the ~south fork of the tuolumne river~. at this junction (23.4 miles from yosemite) we turn to the left on the old ~hog ranch road~, which bears to the northwest thru the pines of the stanislaus national forest. the following six-mile drive to ~mather~ is entirely thru delightful woods and meadows--a country quite attractive but with no startling scenic effects. at mather is the ~hog ranch ranger station~, which is connected by telephone with yosemite and outside points. here we again enter ~yosemite national park~. in the nine-mile rail-motor excursion to hetch hetchy we first traverse a dense pine forest for one mile and then, emerging at the rim of ~tuolumne canyon~, have a wonderfully scenic ride to our destination. ~hetch hetchy~ is a deeply sculptured yosemite-like valley with the broad meadows of its level floor flanked by dominating castellated cliffs. its most impressive feature is ~kolana rock~, a massive promontory buttressing the precipitous south wall. the two great waterfalls--~tueeulala~, the spirit of gracefulness, and ~wapama~, the very soul of power--tumble over the north ramparts at the upper end of the valley. fortunate, indeed, will be the visitors of the next few seasons, for the great gorge will be as yet unflooded. road trip vi yosemite to el portal _via_ el capitan road (15 miles--1-1/2 hours by stage) the final hour in yosemite national park--that generally spent in the ride from the valley to el portal--is one of interest, but it must be admitted, of anti-climax. facing westward we lose the wonderful views which burst upon us in entering, but the trip, for all of that, is attractive. from yosemite village either the bridalveil or the el capitan road may be followed. the former is the more scenic and is described as road trip vi-a. the latter is set forth in the following text. crossing ~sentinel bridge~ our poplar-bordered road bears northward across a wide meadow from which are magnificent views of ~yosemite falls~ and the ~lost arrow~ straight ahead, and ~north dome~, ~royal arches~ and ~half dome~ to the right. at the grizzly hotel site a road forks eastward to mirror lake (road trip ii). turning westward beneath the giant black oaks of the meadow border, we soon pass the old hutchings orchard. the memorial bench at the left marks the spot from which galen clarke so loved to contemplate the beauty of "cholook," the fall of falls. a little further are the wild azalia gardens of ~yosemite creek~. just west of the rustic bridge a short branch road turns to the right to the foot of yosemite falls. we continue straight ahead, passing yosemite hospital at the right and then running beneath the arcade of ~yosemite lodge~. just across the road is the swimming tank, the tennis courts, laundry, etc. the main buildings occupy the site of koom-iâ´-ne, the largest and most important of the old indian villages. bearing southward, we now round the base of ~three brothers~, the waw-hawâ´-kee or "falling rocks" of the indians. at the foot of the great buttress is ~rocky point~. the yosemite tribes called the place we-ã¤ck (the rocks) because, according to their traditions, the huge boulders in the vicinity fell _upon_ their trail. it is among these boulders that tenaya's three sons were captured in 1852, and the colossal monument above was named for them. swinging more directly westward, our road now skirts the base of ~el capitan~, the tote-ack-ah-noo-la or "rock chief" of the indians. the image of their fanciful chief is to this day pointed out on the wall two thousand feet overhead, but he is now called "the wandering jew." in a shallow niche 1189 feet above the road stands a hardy jeffrey pine 82.4 feet high and two feet in diameter. for half a mile we pass thru ~el capitan meadows~, where once were the indian villages of yu-aâ´-chah, ha-engâ´-ah, he-leâ´-jah and awâ´-o-koi-e. at certain times during the day the ~cathedral spires~ and ~cathedral rocks~ on the opposite side of the valley stand out in remarkable perspective, but under general light conditions this stereoscopic effect is entirely lacking. beyond el capitan the ~ribbon fall~ may be seen, its dainty streamer gracefully descending into the rather harsh box-like recess in the canyon wall. its indian name was lung-o-to-ko-ya, or "pigeon falls." a cross road to the left passes ~el capitan checking station~ and crosses ~el capitan bridge~ to the ~bridalveil road~ south of the merced (road trips i-a and vi-a). a few steps further along our route the ~big oak flat road~ turns to the right and ascends thru the shattered granite talus of the north canyon side. at this junction was the old indian village of hep-hep'-oo-ma. paralleling the merced, we now and then are treated to glimpses of ~bridalveil fall~ dropping gracefully from its hanging valley and guarded at the left by ~cathedral rocks~ and at the right by the ~leaning tower~. where our route traverses a small meadow is the site of another vanished village, we'-tum-taw. a short distance beyond is ~black spring~, which is but a few steps to the right of the road. the yosemites called it poot-poo-toon, and among the rocks surrounding it was a small community of the same name. our road now bends gradually southward following the banks of the merced. across the stream is ~bridalveil meadow~ and an especially fine view of the ~gates of the valley~. a short distance further is ~pohono bridge~, where our road is joined by the ~bridalveil road~ (road trips i-a and vi-a) from the south side of the valley. about a quarter of a mile westward is the old mail carrier's cabin, the site of the ancient village of ah-wah'-ma. across the canyon the rugged ramparts of the south rim rise imposingly above and ~meadow brook~ pours over the edge to leap 1170 feet as ~widow's tears fall~. a small dam in the merced diverts water for the intake of the two thousand-watt generators of the new government power house just below the road. south of the river is a grotesque promontory which is well named pulpit rock. at the two small bridges about one and a half miles further down the canyon we pass the foot of ~cascade falls~ which, during the flood waters of early spring, is one of the most attractive scenic features of the el portal highway. from these bridges is also the best view of ~elephant rock~, down the canyon. less than a quarter of a mile further, ~wildcat falls~ pour over the cliff at the right. a short distance beyond, stage drivers often point out the image of a white persian cat on the wall above the road. the old ~coulterville road~ now branches to the right and steeply ascends the canyon wall. this was the first road into yosemite and was completed in 1874. just below elephant rock is ~battleship harbor~, a placid reach of the merced in which fancied granite dreadnaughts ride anchor. a little more than a mile further down the canyon ~grouse creek~ tumbles over the south wall in a series of cascades. we now pass beneath ~arch rock~, a natural tunnel formed by two huge granite talus blocks. the trail bridge across the merced, a short distance westward, is the crossing of the ~sunset trail~, which passes the mid-winter ranger station opposite and ascends past the foot of ~avalanche falls~ to the wawona road, 2500 feet above. two miles further down the canyon we pass out of the park and into the ~stanislaus national forest~ thru a region of gnarled oaks and silver-gray digger pines. during the early season ~indian creek~, across the canyon, forms the picturesque ~chinquapin falls~. one mile below the park line is ~el portal~, the terminus of the ~yosemite valley railroad~. there is here a hotel and a small store. on the opposite slope is the incline of the yosemite lumber company down which flat cars loaded with logs are lowered. from el portal a four-hour ride by railroad takes us to ~merced~. road trip vi-a yosemite village to pohono bridge _via_ the bridalveil road (5 miles--20 minutes by stage) the ~bridalveil road~ parallels the south bank of the merced from yosemite to pohono bridge, five miles westward. this route is more attractive and more scenic than the northern, or el capitan road, which is often taken by the stages. from yosemite village we bear westward across the meadows. the ~sentinel~ towers above at the left and in the distance are the portals of the valley. about one mile takes us past a park ranger's cabin near the spot where galen clarke's house stood until 1919. just northward, at the edge of a big meadow, was once the indian village of hoo'-koo-me'-ko-tah. a little further and directly under the sentinel stand the remaining buildings of old camp awahnee, occupying the site of the large and important indian community of loi'-ah. the name, which means "a long water basket," was also the yosemites' appellation for the great rock tower above. the ~short trail to glacier point~ here turns to the left and begins its zigzag course up the canyon wall. the ~ford road~, a subsidiary route branching to the right, leads to ~the big pine~, which is the largest known specimen of western yellow pine in the park. during the flood waters of early spring, ~sentinel falls~ descend in a picturesque cascade at the western flank of the great obelisk. again continuing westward, we are treated to charming vistas across the merced. especially effective from this angle is the great triple pyramid of ~three brothers~ buttressing the north wall. just opposite them on the banks of the river was kisâ´-se, the westernmost of the large indian villages on the south or "coyote" side of the valley. to the west a splendid profile of ~el capitan~ is revealed and suddenly at the left of the road the ~cathedral spires~, each rising 500 feet from its base, seem to tower above the south rim. the yosemites called the latter po-seeâ´-na chuckâ´-ah, or "mouse-proof rocks," from a fancied resemblance to their acorn caches. a village just below them in a small meadow near the river was called weâ´-sum-meh. we now skirt the powerfully outlined ~cathedral rocks~. at ~el capitan bridge~ one may cross to the north side of the river. directly opposite is a ranger station at the foot of the ~big oak flat road~ (road trip iv). from that point the ~el capitan road~ (road trips i and vi) leads both up and down the valley. continuing along the shaded highway, we veer to the south, passing close to the foot of ~bridalveil fall~, charming glimpses of which are here and there revealed between the trees. just below a very large rock at the east margin of ~bridalveil creek~ is the site of the ancient village of lem-meâ´-hitchâ´-ke. perhaps the unspeakable awe with which the yosemites were supposed to look upon pohono, "the spirit of the evil wind," has been somewhat exaggerated in the past. a short subsidiary road turns to the left to the foot of the fall, a brief side trip which should be taken by all visitors. a short drive now takes us to the junction with the ~wawona road~ (road trip iii) which bears to the left at ~bridalveil checking station~ and climbs thru the forests of the canyon-side. turning to the right, we soon enter ~bridalveil meadow~. near the river was once the indian village of sap-pahâ´-sam-mah. at the edge of the meadow, about 100 feet north of the road, a dense grove of oaks and pines shelters the graves of two pioneers, rose and shurban, who were massacred here by the indians in 1852. the view back across the meadows towards the ~gates of the valley~ is one of the best from this elevation. at the left is the great shoulder of ~el capitan~, with the ~ribbon fall~ almost hidden in a deep recess at its west. at the right of the portal the beautiful ~bridalveil~ leaps gracefully from its hanging valley between ~cathedral rocks~ and the ~leaning tower~. plunging again into the deep woods, we stop for a draught of ice-cold water at ~fern spring~, and a short distance beyond emerge at the beautiful border of the merced. crossing ~pohono bridge~ we join the ~el portal road~. el portal is ten miles westward via road trip vi, and yosemite five miles eastward via road trip i. yosemite trails for an ideal vacation-land, yosemite could scarcely be surpassed. of the 600 miles of trails in the park probably half are within two days walking distance of the valley. it is this portion of the park which is described in the following trail trips--the region which may be seen on walking tours from the valley as a base camp. for the person whose days in yosemite are limited, glacier point undoubtedly offers the most attractive one-day excursion. it is reached by a number of trails, chief of which are the beautiful vernal and nevada falls trail, the steep but thrilling climb up the narrow ledge trail, and the dusty, toilsome ascent of the short trail. most thrilling of all yosemite trails is the ascent of half dome, made possible by the recent construction of a cable-guarded route up its north shoulder. further northeastward is the commanding summit of clouds rest, a long one-day round trip, but well repaid by a magnificent panorama of the high sierra. north of the yosemite walls the most comprehensive views may be had from eagle peak. the top of north dome is also a vantage point of the first order, but the round trip is a long one-day climb. the summit of el capitan, although exceedingly lofty, is rather disappointing except for the view over its rim into the abyss below. sierra point is but one hour's climb above the valley and offers an especially good panorama. many ideal two-day walking trips from yosemite are made possible by accommodations at the lodges in the high sierra. chief among these excursions are the trips to lake tenaya, tuolumne meadows and merced lake. other charming trails are described in the following text. trail trip 1 yosemite to glacier point _via_ vernal and nevada falls and return _via_ the short trail reverse of trail trip 2 (16 miles--8 hours) if one were so time-poor as to have but one day in yosemite, he should by all means climb to glacier point via vernal and nevada falls and return via the short trail. this most scenic trip is easily made afoot in one day and should be taken as follows rather than in the opposite direction because (_a_) one faces the falls in ascending, and (_b_) the gradual ascent is less tiring. early in the season it is a good plan to carry a sack or newspaper for protection while passing thru the mist of vernal falls. the ~vernal and nevada falls trail~ starts near happy isles bridge, 2.3 miles from yosemite village. the trail leaves the road at the right just beyond the bridge, or we may take the footpath through ~happy isles~, crossing the river on a foot-log and joining the main trail a quarter mile above. ascending the canyon, the trail climbs 200 feet above the roaring merced, which was here called by the indians the "yanopah" or "water cloud," referring to the mist of vernal falls. a quarter of a mile from the bridge is a fine spring. here the ~sierra point trail~ (trail trip 12) turns left. rounding the base of ~grizzly peak~ we pass opposite the mouth of ~illilouette canyon~ and see ~illilouette falls~ (drop 350 feet) at its head. the name is a corruption of the indian name, too-tool-a-we-ack. the small dam in the river below diverts water to the happy isles power house. to the left of illilouette canyon is ~panorama cliff~, along the rim of which our trail runs after a three-hour climb by the mist trail (one hour longer by horse trail). descending 100 feet the trail crosses ~vernal bridge~, from which is a fine view of ~vernal falls~, a half mile distant. near this point was the old indian camp of apâ´-poo-meh. straight ahead the horse trail climbs 1600 feet and then descends to the top of vernal falls. pedestrians should take the much more scenic ~mist trail~, which turns left just beyond the bridge, saving thereby one hour and several hundred feet climb. paralleling the river we pass ~lady franklin rock~, from whence may be obtained excellent photographs of vernal falls. the trail mounts thru the boulder-strewn forest and finally rounds a rocky point on a narrow ledge. use extreme caution on slippery wet rocks! we now enter the mist, traversing the luxuriant garden of flowers and grasses which gives the fall its name. between 10 and 12 a.m. beautiful ~circular rainbows~ may be seen in the mist. climbing the steep slope at the right we obtain fine profiles of the fall. the trail then swings beneath an overhanging cliff and mounts a steep narrow ledge to the top of ~vernal falls~ (alt. 5049, drop 317 feet). the indians called the fall "yan-o-pah," or "water cloud," which was also the name for the canyon below. over the rim of the natural granite parapet we have an excellent outlook down the canyon. by climbing along the rim southeast of the falls we find a ladder and hanging trail descending to a grotto, from which a good view of glacier point is obtained. above vernal falls we pass a glacial tarn called ~emerald pool~, at the upper end of which the merced rushes down over smooth granite, forming the beautiful ~silver apron~ and ~waterwheel~. just above is the ~diamond cascade~ and bridge. our trail now joins the horse trail, which descends from the slope above. crossing the river at diamond cascade, the trail ascends to ~snow flat~ below ~liberty cap~ (alt. 7072), which towers above to the left. this granite dome, the mah'-ta, or "martyr mountain" of the indians, can be ascended by a difficult climb up its eastern flank. good rock-climbers will find an interesting scramble up the deep defile between this dome and ~mt. broderick~ (alt. 6705) just northward. at the left of the trail is the site of the old la casa nevada hotel (the snow house), which was built in the early days and burned down in 1897. the old register is in the yosemite museum. the rockslide to the left fell from the face of liberty cap in 1918. fishing is fair from diamond cascade to nevada falls. the trail turns left and mounts 500 feet by the famous ~nevada falls zigzags~. when white men first visited yosemite, part of the merced descended in a cascade where the trail is now built. at the top of the switchbacks the trail to ~little yosemite~, ~clouds rest~, ~tuolumne meadows~ and ~merced lake~ (trail trips 13, 5, 8 and 7) continues up the canyon. there is here a government telephone (central 1 ring). the new location of a refreshment stand and rest house in the vicinity is indicated by a sign. our trail turns right and crosses a small bridge, thence turning southwest to the top of ~nevada falls~ (alt. 5910, height 594 ft.). nevada is "snow" in spanish and replaces the old indian name yo-wy-we. note especially the shooting spray rockets. these are most wonderful when painted by first rays of sunshine at 7.30 to 8 a.m. many claim that, looking down from the rim, the nevada is the valley's most fascinating and beautiful fall. above this point the river was called by the yosemite tribe "yo-wy-we-ack," or the "twisting rock" branch. crossing the river just above the falls, the trail climbs abruptly 700 feet by switchbacks. at the summit the ~mono meadow~ and ~merced pass trail~ up ~illilouette creek~ turns left (trail trip 23). our trail turns right and follows the rim of ~panorama cliff~ almost level for about one mile to ~panorama point~ (alt. 6224). from here is a fine view of ~royal arches~, ~washington column~ and ~north dome~ across the head of ~yosemite valley~, and of ~half dome~ and ~grizzly peak~ to the right. the trail descends 400 feet to the top of ~illilouette falls~ (alt. 5850, fall 370 ft.). good fishing is reported in upper ~illilouette creek~. exploration up this canyon will well repay those interested in glacial phenomena. climbing out of the ~illilouette canyon~, the trail runs north thru open forest. the fallen trees and prostrate bushes are caused by snow-slides from ~illilouette ridge~ above (alt. 8250. fine view from summit). as the trail climbs, the view of ~mt. starr king~, ~mt. clark~ and the ~high sierra~ gradually unfolds. the trail joining from the south leads to ~buena vista lake~ and ~royal arch lake~ (trail trip 22). from one point in the ascent is an especially good profile of ~half dome~ across the canyon. following along granite ledges the trail passes ~glacier point hotel~ (alt. 7200), from which is a most comprehensive panorama of the high sierra. accommodations are excellent and one should remain here over night if possible to see the sunrise. ~glacier point~ and the overhanging rock are about 200 yards beyond the hotel. this lookout point was called patill'ima by the yosemite tribe. from here we obtain what is without doubt the vastest and most awe-inspiring view readily accessible to tourists. the valley floor is 3250 feet below. an inclined shaft elevator thru solid granite from the foot of the cliff is being planned. for trips from glacier point see trail trips 16 to 23. the descent from glacier point to yosemite is generally made by the ~short trail~ (5 miles, 1-1/2 hour walk). from the hotel the trail follows westward along the canyon wall. rounding a point we get an excellent profile view of the ~gates of the valley~ with ~sentinel rock at~ the left and ~el capitan~ at the right. descending 900 feet by switchbacks thru a forest of fir, sugar pine, yellow pine, douglas fir and incense cedar, we reach ~union point~ (alt. 6314--2350 feet above the valley floor). there is here a refreshment stand where cooling drinks and light lunches may be obtained. a short distance from the point is a shelter cabin and a government telephone (central 1 ring). descending past ~agassiz column~, a huge balancing shaft of granite, the trail zigzags down the mountain side, emerging at several vantage points from which are obtained especially fine views of ~half dome~ and the north end of the valley. the character of the forest now changes, oaks and laurel entering to replace the diminishing fir. the trail terminates at the foot of ~sentinel rock~ at the site of the old camp awahnee and the more ancient indian village of loi'-ah. yosemite is 1.3 miles distant by road to the right. during the season a regular auto-bus service is maintained between this and other valley points. trail trip 2 yosemite to glacier point _via_ the short trail and return _via_ vernal and nevada falls reverse of trail trip 1 (16 miles--8 hours) the glacier point excursion is a most scenic one-day trip and this is the most widely used of yosemite trails. parties are advised to take the reverse of this trip (trail trip 1) thereby obtaining views of the falls which are unnoticed on the down trip. the ascent is also more gradual and therefore less tiring. the ~short trail to glacier point~ starts from the bridalveil road 1.3 miles west of yosemite at the site of old camp awahnee and of the more ancient indian village of loi'-ah. turning southward we ascend abruptly thru a dense forest of oak, mountain laurel, scattered pines, cedar and douglas fir. as the trail climbs rapidly by switchbacks, broad-leaved trees disappear, their places being taken by sugar pines and true firs from above. frequently the trail emerges at vantage points from which are obtained especially fine views of ~half dome~ and the north end of the valley. a climb of 2350 feet takes us past a balancing shaft of granite, ~agassiz column~, to ~union point~ (alt. 6314). at this fine view-point are a government shelter cabin and telephone (central 1 ring.) the remaining 900-foot climb to glacier point is thru a dense forest with some vast views to the northeast. a short level stretch near the end leads to ~glacier point~ (alt. 7214). the view from the vicinity of the overhanging rock is without doubt the vastest and most awe-inspiring sight readily accessible to tourists. the yosemite tribe called this lookout point patill'ima. yosemite is 3250 feet below. an inclined shaft elevator thru solid granite from the foot of the cliff is being planned. for trips from glacier point see trail trips 16 to 23. the ~glacier point hotel~ and cottages are but 200 yards distant. the panorama of the ~high sierra~ from the hotel balcony is especially fine. accommodations are excellent and it is recommended that the tourist remain over night if possible to see the sunrise. passing the hotel the trail descends gradually along granite ledges revealing a most impressive profile of ~half dome~ across the canyon. during the descent into the canyon of the illilouette several patches of fallen trees and prostrate brush are passed. these are caused by the frequent snow slides from the ~illilouette ridge~ above (alt. 8250. fine view). at a trail forks, the ~buena vista trail~ (trail trip 22) branches south up the ~illilouette canyon~. an abrupt descent by zigzags takes us to a point from which is obtained a good view of the lace-like ~illilouette fall~. the name is a corruption of the old indian name too-tool-a-we-ack. a few feet below we stop at the lip of the fall (alt. 5850). the canyon above abounds in glacial phenomena and will well repay a side trip for those interested in geology. fishing is good up the canyon. a climb of 375 feet takes us to ~panorama point~ (alt. 6224), from which is an imposing view of the upper end of the valley and the mouth of ~tenaya canyon~. to the right is the sheer edge of ~panorama cliff~, along which our trail now follows almost level for about a mile. in the canyon below can be seen our route of about two hours hence. at a trail forks the ~mono meadow~ and ~merced pass trail~ (trail trip 23) turns right into the ~illilouette creek basin~. now begins an abrupt descent of 700 feet by switchbacks to the ~merced river~ which, above this point, was called by the yosemite tribe the yo-wy-we-ack or "twisting rock" branch. a few steps from the bridge is the top of ~nevada falls~ (alt. 5910, drop 594 ft.). nevada is spanish for snow and replaces the old indian name yo-wy-we. many claim that the view from the overhanging ledge is the most fascinating water-vista of yosemite. note especially the shooting spray rockets. these are most wonderful when painted by the first rays of sunshine at 7:30 to 8 a.m. about a quarter of a mile upstream the trail crosses a small bridge and is joined by the ~clouds rest~, ~sunrise~, ~lake merced~ and ~little yosemite trail~ (trail trips 5, 8, 7 and 13). here is a government telephone (central 1 ring). fishing is good about two miles upstream in ~little yosemite~. in the following abrupt 500-foot descent by zigzags some fine profile views of ~nevada falls~ are obtained. when white men first visited yosemite part of the merced cascaded down the steep slope where the trail is now built. as the trail crosses ~snow flat~ at the foot of nevada falls, the ruins of the old "la casa nevada," or "snow house," are seen at the right of the trail. the old register, which dates back to 1871, is in the yosemite museum. ~liberty cap~ (alt. 7072), which the indians called mah'ta or "martyr mountain," towers above to the right. it may be ascended from the east and good rock climbers will find an interesting scramble up the deep defile between this dome and ~mount broderick~ (alt. 6705) just northward. the talus of huge rocks above the trail fell from the face of liberty cap in 1918. a bridge across the merced takes us directly over the ~diamond cascade~. below is the ~silver apron~. from the bridge upstream is fair fishing. a short distance beyond the crossing is a fork where the main or "horse trail" turns to the left and climbs 350 feet up the canyon wall in order to pass vernal falls. pedestrians should turn to the right and take the far more scenic ~mist trail~, thereby saving a half hour and several hundred feet climb. following down the river we pass the ~silver apron~ and ~waterwheel~, below which is a perfect glacial tarn called ~emerald pool~. near its mouth is the rim of ~vernal falls~ (alt. 5049, drop 317 ft.). from behind the natural breast-high granite parapet we have another excellent outlook. the fall was called by the indians yan-o-pah, or "water cloud," which term was also applied to the canyon below. by climbing along the rim southeast of the falls we find a ladder and hanging trail descending to a ~grotto~, from which is a good view of ~glacier point~. nearer the fall the ~mist trail~ suddenly drops over the edge of the cliff and follows down a steep, narrow ledge which is well guarded by chains and iron posts. from here and from the zigzags just below we obtain excellent profiles of the fall. we now enter the mist, passing down thru a luxurious growth of grasses and flowers, which caused the fall to be given its present name. between 10 and 12 a.m. the beautiful ~circular rainbows~ may here be seen. use extreme caution on slippery wet rocks! following around the base of a cliff on a narrow ledge, the trail again enters a forest and parallels the river. we stop at ~lady franklin rock~, where is obtained one of the best vistas of the falls (good photograph). a short distance downstream the two trails reunite just before crossing ~vernal bridge~, from which is a good distant view of the falls. in the canyon below was the old indian camp of apâ´-poo-meh. the trail now mounts about 200 feet above the riotous merced and in rounding the base of ~grizzly peak~ offers a clear perception of the deep recess below ~illilouette falls~. again approaching the river we pass a spring and water trough where the ~sierra point trail~ (trail trip 12) joins from the right. the ~happy isles bridge~ on the main road is a quarter of a mile distant. we have the choice of descending by the main trail or crossing the foot-log to ~happy isles~, and thence by several bridges and footpaths to the main road. the road to the right leads to mirror lake. we turn left. camp curry is one mile distant and yosemite village 2.3 miles. trail trip 3 yosemite to north dome _via_ yosemite falls and return _via_ mirror lake reverse of trail trip 4 (19.5 miles--10 hours) the ~north dome~ trip is a strenuous one-day climb and should be taken as follows rather than trail trip 4, thus avoiding the hot ascent of the mirror lake zigzags. one should start early, reaching the top of the falls before the heat becomes excessive. the ~yosemite falls trail~ was built in the early days and operated as a toll trail. it leaves the road a short distance west of ~yosemite lodge~. in the first mile we ascend by sharp zigzags thru a shady grove of golden oak and laurel, emerging above into the open and climbing granite ledges to ~columbia point~ (alt. 5031). from here is a splendid view, especially of the upper end of the valley. turning north, the trail ascends a few feet and then follows along a granite ledge beautifully shaded by oaks, laurel, douglas fir and pines. at the left of the trail about a quarter of a mile above columbia point is a spring. a short, rather steep descent takes us to ~valley view~, a lookout point a short distance to the right of the trail, from which is an excellent view of the valley and the ~upper yosemite fall~. skirting the base of an almost perpendicular cliff at the left, the trail approaches the foot of the upper fall and bears to the left. from this point it is possible to leave the trail and climb to the foot of the upper fall, entering the cave under its base except during high water. the climb is dangerous because of slippery rocks. by switchbacks the trail ascends the steep slope west of the falls, crossing a small stream after a quarter-mile climb. during the hour ascent of the zigzags, ~mount clark~ (alt. 11,506), ~gray peak~ (alt. 11,581) and other high sierra summits may be seen to the southeast. across the canyon are ~glacier point~ and ~sentinel dome~. at a trail junction 100 feet beyond the canyon rim is a government telephone (central 1 ring). here the ~eagle peak~ and ~yosemite creek trails~ continue straight ahead (trail trips 9, 10 and 11). our trail turns to the right and crosses a small stream. just beyond, the main trail passes over a low rise. a branch to the left follows south along the open ridge for a short distance to the top of the falls. from the railed lookout point, peering into the chasm below we see what muir describes as one of the most impressive phenomena of the valley. retracing our route to the main trail and turning left, we cross ~yosemite creek~ and climb 300 feet on the further side, thence turning southward. a short trail to the rim takes us to ~yosemite point~ (alt. 6935), from which is a vast view of the valley and the high sierra. the granite spire at the right and just below is "le hammo," the lost arrow of one of the most beautiful yosemite indian legends. returning to the main trail we climb parallel to the eastern rim of the cliff. to the right are ~castle cliffs~ and the flat summit of ~north dome~ beyond. after a climb of 400 feet the trail crosses a ridge and traverses a dense forest of fir and pine, descending 400 feet and crossing ~indian creek~. directly south is ~indian canyon~, called by the yosemite tribe "le hamite," because of the arrowwood which grew there. their main trail into yosemite followed along the precipitous east side of the canyon. the ~little winkle branch of indian creek~ is crossed a half mile beyond the main stream, and here the ~snow flat trail~ continues upstream. turning to the right, our trail passes thru a fir forest about one mile to ~indian ridge~, which it follows south over disintegrating granite and thru stunted forest to the rounded summit of ~north dome~ (alt. 7531). the view is most comprehensive and the sheer vertical wall of ~half dome~ gives an impression of massiveness nowhere else obtained. to the north of the trail near the summit is ~slipper rock~. in returning to yosemite we take all main trails to the right. retracing our path up ~indian ridge~ it is possible to follow the trail back to the ~east~ or ~little winkle fork of indian creek~, and turn right on the ~snow flat trail~, but the better and the shorter way is to follow the plain blazes which turn to the right about a half mile from the north dome summit and just west of the crest of ~indian ridge~. running thru a beautiful forest this trail joins the main ~snow flat trail~ at the ~little winkle branch of indian creek~ just west of ~indian rock~. it is also possible to leave the trail and follow up indian ridge from north dome, gradually bearing to the right of ~indian rock~ and intersecting the main ~mirror lake trail~ near the top of the zigzags. our trail follows up the ~east~ or ~little winkle branch of indian creek~, at the source of which the ~porcupine flat trail~ branches to the left. the ~mirror lake trail~ swings north of ~indian rock~, and descends east to a branch of ~snow creek~, passing ~snow creek falls~. further down snow creek is the junction with the ~lake tenaya trail~ (trail trips 5 and 6). turning right we further descend snow creek and pass over the rim of the canyon between ~basket dome~ (alt. 7602) at the right and ~mt. watkins~ (alt. 8235) at the left. in the next one and a half miles a descent of 2500 feet is made by 108 switchbacks to the floor of ~tenaya canyon~. following down the canyon one mile, the trail joins the road at ~mirror lake~. yosemite is three miles distant by road. trail trip 4 yosemite to north dome _via_ mirror lake and return _via_ yosemite falls trail reverse of trail trip 3 (19.5 miles--10 hours) this is a strenuous one-day climb. the advantage of taking the trip as follows and seeing the sunrise at ~mirror lake~ is more than offset by physical penalty of climbing the hot and steep ~tenaya trail~ zigzags. the trip is better taken in the reverse direction (trail trip 3). if the following route is adhered to, it is best to leave yosemite as early as possible, carrying a canteen which should be filled about three-quarters of a mile above mirror lake. ~mirror lake~ is three miles distant by road from yosemite. here our trail leaves the end of the road and skirts the west shore. following up the canyon beneath the dense forest about one mile we suddenly turn left and start the 2500-foot ascent. from the 108 switchbacks are many fine views. after a long, tiresome climb the trail passes over the canyon rim between ~mt. watkins~ (alt. 8235) at the right and ~basket dome~ (alt. 7602) at the left. a short distance takes us to ~snow creek~, which cascades beautifully further down its rough canyon. turning upstream we soon arrive at a trail fork where the ~tenaya lake trail~ (trail trip 6) turns right. we turn left, following up the west branch about a mile further. in high water ~snow creek falls~ is especially attractive. the trail now makes a wide detour to the north of ~indian rock~ (alt. 8526). if desirable, pedestrians may leave the trail and climb to its summit, from which are good views, thence following south down the long open ridge to the summit of ~north dome~. the trail keeps at a lower elevation, passing thru almost level fir forests and meadows with a charming diversity of wild-flowers and trees. gradually bearing southward our trail follows down the ~east~ or ~little winkle branch of indian creek~ from its source. the main ~snow flat trail~ continues down this stream, but we turn left on the plainly blazed ~cut-off trail to north dome~. passing thru the dense forests on the west flank of ~indian ridge~, we finally emerge on the open disintegrated granite at the crest of the long slope leading southward to north dome. here the ~yosemite falls trail~ joins from the west. the rounded summit of ~north dome~ (alt. 7531) is now easily reached by a walk thru the open forest and over granite pavements, which here exhibit very well the geological phenomenon of exfoliation or weathering in concentric shells. near the summit and to the north of the trail is ~slipper rock~. from the top is a vast outlook, especially westward toward the ~gates of the valley~ and eastward where the great wall of ~half dome~ dominates the entire landscape. the floor of ~yosemite valley~ is partly hidden by the projecting ~royal arch cliff~. daring rock climbers who have made the descent to the edge describe this dizzy precipice as one of the most impressive in the park. in returning to yosemite we take all main trails to the left. retracing our path for about half a mile up ~indian ridge~, we turn westward. one mile more thru dense forest takes us past a small stream and to the ~little winkle branch of indian creek~, where the main ~snow flat trail~ joins from upstream. the steep canyon below was called "le hamite" by the yosemite indians because of the arrowwood which grew there. their main trail into yosemite followed along the precipitous east wall of the canyon. a climb of 400 feet thru the forest now takes us to the summit of a long ridge which we follow southward, finally paralleling the edge of a deep precipice just westward from ~castle cliffs~ and emerging abruptly at ~yosemite point~ (alt. 6935). this is one of the justly famous view-points of yosemite and offers a remarkable combination of depths and distances. the granite spire just below and at the right is the ~lost arrow~, the "le hammo" of the yosemite tribe, the story of which is one of their most charming legends. returning a short distance to the main trail we descend to ~yosemite creek~. on the open ridge just beyond the crossing is a secondary trail which leads to the rim of the ~upper yosemite fall~, a few hundred feet distant. the wonderful view from this point is most thrillingly described by muir. returning to the main trail we cross a small stream where is the junction with the ~yosemite creek~, ~eagle peak~ and ~ten lakes trails~ (trail trips 11, 9 and 10). there is here a government telephone (central 1 ring). turning left we descend abruptly 1600 feet by sharp, dusty switchbacks, finally skirting the bottom of the almost vertical cliff west of the falls. at this point one can leave the trail and climb to the foot of the upper fall, in times of low water even entering the cave beneath its base. the climb is dangerous because of the slippery rocks. the trail now passes southward along a granite ledge beneath the shade of oaks and laurel. a short steep descent at the left of the trail takes us to ~valley view~, an excellent lookout point. less than one-half mile further is ~columbia point~ (alt. 5031) from which is a particularly wide and effective panorama. the following 2000-foot descent to the floor of yosemite valley is first along granite ledges among scattered douglas firs and golden oaks, and finally beneath the dense laurel and oak forests of the lower talus slopes. at the foot of the trail is the ~el capitan road~. auto busses run between this and other valley points on half-hour service. ~yosemite lodge~ is a short distance eastward and ~yosemite village~ is about three-quarters of a mile distant via yosemite lodge and the foot-bridge. trail trip 5 yosemite to tenaya lake _via_ clouds rest and forsyth pass and return _via_ mirror lake reverse of trail trip 6 (32.25 miles--2-day trip) owing to the stupendous mountain scenery and the charming diversity of meadows and forests thru which this trail passes, it deserves to be ranked among the most scenic of yosemite trails. two days should be taken for the trip. excellent accommodations will be found at tenaya lake lodge, but reservations should be made in advance from yosemite. from yosemite we take the road past ~camp curry~ to ~happy isles bridge~. here we turn to the right on the main ~glacier point trail~ and follow trail trip 1 as far as the trail junction at the top of the ~nevada falls~ zigzags. at this point we turn left, rising rather abruptly about 200 feet and then following up the north bank of the merced river. about a half mile takes us to a junction where the ~little yosemite trail~ (trail trip 13) continues on up the ~little yosemite valley~. our trail turns to the left uphill and mounts by switchbacks thru a dense stand of pine, fir and cedar. a climb of 1000 feet in one and a half miles takes us to the junction where the ~half dome trail~ (trail trip 14) turns to the left. our trail turns right along a gently inclined bench and in one-half mile again branches. to the right is the ~sunrise trail~ (trail trip 8). by taking this trail and branching north on the cut-off route about two miles further, some distance can be saved by those who do not wish to visit clouds rest. the main trail, which turns to the left, should be followed. it continues the climb towards the northeast. about half a mile westward are the two ~quarter domes~ (alt. 8160 and 8276). at an altitude of 8200 we pass a spring. above this the trail rises sharply by zigzags to the base of the ~pinnacles~ (alt. 9451). a climb of a few hundred feet along their east flank takes us near the summit of ~clouds rest~ (alt. 9924). a short branch trail up the steep and rocky slope leads to the crest, from which is a vast view in all directions. this is the highest of the yosemite valley summits. we descend again to the trail, which turns northeast and follows along the canyon rim, keeping generally just east of the crest. in two miles the cut-off trail from little yosemite joins from the right. after gradually bearing to the left, now on the tenaya canyon slope, we pass a small lake at the right of the trail. the lake contains no fish, but upstream one mile is ~mildred lake~ (alt. 9600), in which are some very large trout. traversing ~forsyth pass~, the picturesque trail now descends 1000 feet in the next two and a half miles over rough granite to the rocky meadows just below ~lake tenaya~ (alt. 8141). this large, deep glacial lake is beautifully surrounded by granite crags and domes. its indian name, py-we-ack, meant "lake of the glistening rocks," referring to the glacier-polished granite at its upper end. the lake and the peak to the east were renamed "tenaya" when the last remnant of chief tenaya's yosemite tribe was captured here by the mariposa battalion on june 5, 1851. there is here good camping, and pasturage seems abundant, but horses do not like it and should therefore be hobbled to prevent straying. the lake was stocked with loch leven trout in 1911 and with rainbow, eastern brook, black spotted and steelhead in 1917, 1918 and 1919, but fishing is only fair. crossing the meadows at the outlet our trail joins the ~tioga road~, which follows the western margin of the lake to the ~tenaya lake lodge~, about one and a half miles distant, where good accommodations will be found. the road continues up the canyon to ~tuolumne meadows~ seven and a half miles distant, and to mono lake. from tenaya lake to mirror lake are two trails, which unite after about two and a half miles. the first of these starts from the road just beyond the sharp bend about one and a quarter miles from the lake and bears southwest thru the forest. the other, which is far more scenic, crosses the meadow and park-like forest below the lake, passing a beautiful little unnamed lake where good camp sites and horse-feed will be found, but no fishing. beyond this is a gradual 300-foot ascent along an open ridge. below is the deep chasm of the inaccessible and little known ~tenaya canyon~. the unbroken granite abutments of ~clouds rest~ sweep down almost 4000 feet. after each snowstorm these cliffs shed avalanche after avalanche. at about two and a half miles from tenaya lake the less scenic trail from the tioga road joins from the right. descending southwest thru timber the trail passes ~hidden lake~ (alt. 8400--picturesque but no fishing) which is to the left of the trail but invisible without making a detour. about two miles further is ~tenmile meadow~ (alt. 8400) on a small tributary of ~tenaya creek~. this is a good place to noon. there is here fine horse-feed, also good camp sites, but no fishing. an abrupt climb of 650 feet now takes us over a spur ridge and to the source of the east branch of ~snow creek~. there is here a small meadow at the left of the trail, where good horse-feed and camp sites will be found. a 1500-foot descent by zigzags thru scattered timber takes us down a side canyon to ~snow creek~, across which is a foot-log. about 300 yards beyond the crossing, the ~north dome trail~ (trail trip 4) turns northwest and follows up the west branch of snow creek. we turn left, passing thru a beautiful forest of jeffrey pine, lodgepole pine and fir. fishing is fair, but the trout are small. about one mile below the crossing we suddenly emerge at the rim of the canyon between ~mt. watkins~ (alt. 8235) at the left and ~basket dome~ (alt. 7602) at the right. the following abrupt descent of 2500 feet by 108 switchbacks takes us to the bottom of ~tenaya canyon~. turning downstream our trail enters a dense forest of oaks, laurel, pine and cedar. one mile of almost level path takes us to ~mirror lake~, where we skirt the west shore to the end of the road. yosemite is three miles distant by road. trail trip 6 yosemite to tenaya lake _via_ mirror lake and return _via_ forsyth pass and clouds rest reverse of trail trip 5 (32.25 miles--2-day trip) ~tenaya lake~ is one of the gems of the high sierra. the very scenic two-day round trip from yosemite is too long and strenuous to be attempted in one day. excellent accommodations will be found at tenaya lake lodge, but reservations should be made in advance by telephone. if the trip is to be taken in the following direction one should start early to avoid the intense heat of the zigzags above mirror lake. water should be carried. the trail starts at ~mirror lake~, three miles from yosemite. one should plan to see sunrise there (about 8 a.m. in summer). skirting the west shore the trail follows up the canyon about one mile, thru a dense forest of oak, laurel, yellow pine, douglas fir and incense cedar. then begins a long, hard climb of 2500 feet up 108 switchbacks (one and a half miles--two hours). above the rim of the canyon the trail follows the west bank of ~snow creek~. fishing is fair but the trout small. further down stream are picturesque cascades. after passing thru a forest of jeffrey pine, lodgepole pine and fir for about one mile the trail to north dome and tioga road (trail trip 4) branches to the left. our trail turns right and crosses ~snow creek~ (foot-log) about 300 yards beyond. we then climb 1500 feet by zigzags up an east branch of snow creek thru scattered timber. at the headwaters of this creek is a small meadow at the right of the trail, a good campsite with forage fairly abundant. rising over a spur ridge, the trail drops abruptly about 650 feet to ~tenmile meadow~ (alt. 8400) on a small tributary of ~tenaya creek~. this is a good place to noon. it is a fine camp and horse-feed is abundant, but there is no fishing. climbing to the northeast thru timber the trail passes ~hidden lake~ (alt. 8400--picturesque, but no fishing), which is a short distance to the right of the trail but not visible from it. about two and a half miles beyond tenmile meadow the trail forks. the left branch leads to the ~tioga road~, about one mile distant, which may then be followed to lake tenaya. the trail to the right is far more scenic. it follows an open granite ridge revealing the wonderfully glaciated canyon below and ~clouds rest~ opposite. down the canyon are half dome and the head of yosemite valley. descending about 300 feet the trail passes a beautiful little unnamed lake, where are good camp sites and abundant pasturage, but no fishing. from here the trail traverses almost level meadows and a scattered forest of lodgepole pine one mile to ~lake tenaya~ (alt. 8141). this large, deep glacial lake is beautifully surrounded by granite crags and domes and is a splendid place for a permanent camp. its indian name was py-we-ack, or "lake of the glistening rocks," because of the glacier-polished granite pavements near the north end. on june 5, 1851, when the last remnant of old chief tenaya's yosemite tribe was captured here by the mariposa battalion, the lake and the dominant pyramidal peak at the east were renamed "tenaya." forage is abundant in the vicinity but it is not liked by horses, so stock should be hobbled. the lake was stocked with loch leven trout in 1911 and with rainbow, eastern brook, black spotted and steelhead in 1917, 1918 and 1919, but fishing is only fair. the ~tioga road~ follows around the western margin of the lake to ~tenaya lake lodge~, about one and a half miles distant, where good accommodations will be found. the road continues up the canyon to ~tuolumne meadows~, seven and a half miles distant, and to ~mono lake~. our return trail starts just below the lake. crossing the meadow it mounts the east slope steadily climbing 1000 feet up the rough granite to ~forsyth pass~, two and a half miles distant. fine views are obtained all along the trail. near the summit a small shallow lake can be seen east of the trail. by leaving the trail and following up the small stream about one mile, ~mildred lake~ (alt. 9600) can be reached. this little lake contains some very large trout. from forsyth pass the trail follows southwest along the rim of tenaya canyon about two miles and then forks. the trail to the left descends thru timber about three miles and joins the ~sunrise trail~, making the shortest route to yosemite. the trail to the right leads to clouds rest and is far more scenic than the cut-off. it follows just east of the canyon rim for about two miles and joins the ~clouds rest trail~. a short, steep ascent by foot over rough granite takes us to ~clouds rest~ (alt. 9925), the highest point near yosemite. from here is a vast panorama to all sides. returning to the trail we descend thru stunted forest and rough granite. to the right are ~the pinnacles~ (alt. 9451). the trail descends about 1000 feet by switchbacks to a spring. ~quarter domes~ (alt. 8160 and 8276) are half a mile west on the canyon rim. the trail descends thru denser and denser forest. a short distance below, the ~sunrise trail~ joins from the east. after trending westward along a bench the trail is joined from the northwest by the ~half dome trail~. descending thru the pine forest, we now and then are treated to glimpses of ~mt. starr king~ across little yosemite. about one-third of a mile takes us to another junction where a branch trail turns left descending 400 feet into little yosemite. the main trail passes to the right of a granite knob and reaches the floor of ~little yosemite valley~ near the lower end, where it is joined by a trail from up the canyon. turning right we pass ~liberty cap~ and after a 200-foot descent join the main glacier point trail at the top of ~nevada falls~. there is here a government telephone (central 1 ring). we turn right. yosemite is six miles distant via trail trip 2. trail trip 7 yosemite to lake merced (16.5 miles--6 hours) the round trip from yosemite to ~merced lake~ is an exceedingly scenic two-day excursion. one should telephone in advance for accommodations at the merced lake lodge. pedestrians may save an hour's hard climb by taking the mist trail to the top of vernal falls. an excellent three-day trip may be made by combining trail trips 7 and 6. first day: lake merced. second day: clouds rest and lake tenaya via forsyth pass. third day: yosemite via the summit of north dome and yosemite falls trail. from yosemite we take the road on the south side of the valley past camp curry to ~happy isles bridge~. here we turn right on the main glacier point trail and follow trail trip 1 to the junction at the top of the ~nevada falls~ switchbacks. the ~glacier point trail~ (trail trip 1) turns right and crosses a small bridge. we take the left-hand trail, which rises about 200 feet and follows up the ~merced river~. about half a mile beyond, the ~little yosemite trail~ (trail trip 13) continues up the canyon. the main trail turns to the left and zigzags upward thru a dense stand of pine, fir and cedar. a climb of about 800 feet in one and a half miles takes us to the junction with the ~half dome trail~ (trail trip 14), which branches left. our trail turns eastward along a gently sloping bench. after a quarter of a mile the ~clouds rest trail~ (trail trip 5) continues to climb to the left. the ~merced lake trail~ turns right, fording a small creek and thence following up the west bank of ~sunrise creek~, crossing about a mile above to the east bank. about half a mile above the crossing is ~hopkins meadow~, where the ~sunrise trail to tuolumne meadows~ (trail trip 8) branches to the left. we turn right, passing thru almost level open granite country for the next two miles where we obtain grand views of ~little yosemite~, of the deep canyon of the ~merced~, and of ~mt. clark~ and ~mt. starr king~ toward the south. descending some short, steep switchbacks the trail again becomes almost level and passes the picturesque little ~duck lake~ at the right of the trail. rising a few feet we now descend abruptly into ~echo creek canyon~, crossing ~echo creek~ about a quarter of a mile from the merced river. here at ~echo valley~ are good camp sites, excellent feed and fine fishing. echo creek was stocked in 1905 with eastern brook trout. steelhead and german brown trout will also be found in the river. the old "merced lake trail," which is shown on the u.s.g.s. map as ascending echo creek is in very poor condition and is no longer used. from echo valley the trail climbs about 100 feet over a granite spur, in the ascent passing thru a beautiful forest of western yellow pine. following for one mile along the glaciated granite slope, the trail parallels the river, which here descends in a series of rapids, cascades and low falls. we arrive finally at ~lake merced~ (alt. 7300). this is one of the most accessible and well known of the lakes in yosemite's high sierra. at its shores and along the entire seven-mile canyon above are ideal camping places. horse-feed is abundant above the lake. fishing is excellent in both lake and river. the lake contains loch leven, german brown and rainbow trout. rowboats may be hired at fifty cents per hour or $2.50 per day. merced lake is undoubtedly the best base camp for trips thruout the entire upper watershed of the merced river. the trail skirts the north edge of the lake, passing into a beautiful forest of sugar pine and western yellow pine at the upper end. just above the lake is ~merced lake lodge~, with excellent accommodations. one may here rent a fishing outfit and some supplies may be obtained. ~washburn lake~ is three miles further up the canyon. trail trip 8 yosemite to tuolumne meadows _via_ sunrise trail (28 miles--12 hours) the ~sunrise trail~ has long been famous as one of the most scenic routes between yosemite and tuolumne meadows. the walk is almost too long to be enjoyed in one day and is better taken in two. from yosemite village we follow the road south of the river, past camp curry to happy isles bridge. there we turn left on the ~glacier point trail~ and follow trail trip 1 to the junction at the top of ~nevada falls~. again turning left we skirt the south base of ~liberty cap~ and climb 200 feet to the ~little yosemite valley~. after following along the margin of the placid merced we veer abruptly to the left at the first trail junction. straight ahead is ~little yosemite~ (trail trip 13). our route mounts the timbered slope to the northward and we now and then catch glimpses of the round dome of ~mt. starr king~ across little yosemite. a climb of 800 feet takes us to the junction where the ~half dome trail~ (trail trip 14) turns northwest. we take the right-hand trail, which trends eastward along a gently sloping bench. the ~clouds rest trail~ (trail trip 5) now branches northward directly up the slope. our trail bears eastward and shortly crosses a small branch of sunrise creek. the trail now follows up the north bank of ~sunrise creek~, crossing about a mile above to the south side. one-half mile further is ~hopkins meadow~ and a junction where the ~merced lake trail~ (trail trip 7) turns right. horse-feed is here moderately abundant and camp sites fair. the ~sunrise trail~ continues up the canyon and is shortly joined by the ~forsyth pass trail~ from the north (trail trip 5). reaching the head of sunrise creek and ascending the east flank of ~sunrise mountain~ by long sandy zigzags, the trail emerges at several vantage points from which ~mt. clark~ is most advantageously seen to the south. the trail now leads almost level through lodgepole pine and fir forests, emerging suddenly at the foot of ~long meadow~. to the north is the sharp spire of ~columbia finger~ (alt. 10,700) and ~tenaya peak~ (alt. 10,300) at the left. horse-feed is abundant here late in the season but the meadow is generally cold. there is no fishing in the creek. just beyond the 400-foot ridge to the west is ~mildred lake~, in which are some very large trout. after following up long meadow, the trail rounds the eastern base of columbia finger, passing over glaciated granite and thru stunted forests. the serrate crest of ~echo peak~ (alt. 11,100) towers imposingly at the right across the canyon. a rise of a few feet takes us over ~cathedral pass~ (alt. 9850). just beyond is a beautiful unnamed lake above which the spires of ~cathedral peak~ rise impressively at the north. skirting the east shore of this little lake at about timber line, the trail bears northward across a sandy plateau where white bark pine grows abundantly. to the west, down the canyon, can be seen the upper end of ~cathedral lake~ (alt. 9250) about one mile distant. here camping and fishing are good. the lake was stocked long ago and re-stocked in 1915 by fish from tuolumne meadows. continuing around the west flank of cathedral peak the trail gradually bears northeast, descending into denser forests of lodgepole pine, fir and hemlock. to the left can be seen the summit of ~fairview dome~ (alt. 9250) about one mile distant. a gradual descent through the dense forest, which is especially noted for its many beautiful mountain hemlocks, takes us finally to the south edge of ~tuolumne meadows~, where the trail joins the tioga road. the ranger camp and sierra club lodge are about one mile east. trail trip 9 yosemite to eagle peak, el capitan and gentry (14 miles. eagle peak and return, 13 miles--8 hours) the round trip to the summit of eagle peak via yosemite falls trail is one of the most attractive of one-day yosemite excursions. from the valley to the crest of el capitan via the yosemite falls trail, returning via gentry and the big oak flat road, is too long and hard a trip to be attempted in one day except by the most hardened walkers. the trail to eagle peak is excellent, but from that point to the summit of el capitan it is in poor condition. from this point along the north rim to gentry the route is so overgrown by brush as to be almost impassable. from ~yosemite~ we follow trail trip 3 as far as the trail junction above the zigzags west of the ~upper yosemite fall~. here we continue straight ahead, paralleling ~yosemite creek~, to another junction a quarter of a mile above. the trail to the north leads to ~ten lakes~ and ~hetch hetchy~ (trail trips 10 and 11). we turn to the left, climbing westward near the north bank of ~eagle creek~ over an old terminal moraine. one mile from the junction is ~eagle peak meadow~ (alt. 7200), where are good camp sites and forage. ascending the creek to its source, the trail continues south along the ridge, climbing abruptly the last half mile to ~eagle peak~ (alt. 7333), one of yosemite's finest lookout points. to the east the 3800-foot precipice gives a vast impression of depth. about one-third mile from the summit the little-used ~el capitan trail~ branches to the west. descending by sharp switchbacks to the head of a small draw, the trail follows the rim westward thru a brushy forest, undulating over the flat divides between several brooklets. swinging southward our trail emerges on an open transverse ridge, which it follows a short distance to the summit of ~el capitan~ (alt. 7564), from which is a commanding outlook both up and down the valley. it is possible to carefully descend towards the southeast to the rim, where a slightly extending ledge allows one to peer over the sheer wall of the 3000-foot cliff. the old ~el capitan trail to gentry~ branches to the west about one-third of a mile north from the summit and continues thru very brushy country along the north rim to ~ribbon creek~, about one mile distant. from this point if one is a good woodsman and brush-fighter, the old blazes may be followed thru a three-mile tangle to the ~gentry checking station~ on the ~big oak flat road~. yosemite is then 8.1 miles distant by road. trail trip 10 yosemite to ten lakes _via_ yosemite creek (one way 17 miles--7 hours) the recently constructed ~ten lakes trail~ makes the exceptionally beautiful ~ten lakes basin~ and ~grant lakes~ easily accessible from yosemite. the round trip is too long to be attempted in one day. the lakes offer most attractive sites for a permanent camp, and several of them are well stocked with trout. we follow the ~yosemite falls trail~ (trail trip 3) from its beginning just west of ~yosemite lodge~ to the trail junction at the top of the upper zigzags. here the ~yosemite point and north dome trail~ turns right and crosses a small creek. those who have not visited the top of the upper fall should by all means turn aside, for it is but a short distance--less than five minutes' walk. our main trail continues straight ahead paralleling without crossing ~yosemite creek~ thru a beautiful mixed forest where the tree-lover will find a few specimens of western white pine. at about one-quarter mile (4.0 miles from yosemite) the ~eagle peak trail~ (trail trip 9) branches to the left. we follow up the west margin of the creek, generally thru dense forests, but emerging at times to clatter over polished and striated granite pavements where monster mountain junipers grotesquely spread their gnarled branches. great "potholes" have been formed by the stream where it rushes over the smoothly planed bedrock. at a point 3.7 miles above the eagle peak trail junction the main trail continues to the left up the west fork (trail trip 11). our trail, which turns right and keeps on up the main fork canyon, is considerably less traveled. in the next 2.3 miles we pass over rough granite up the west bank of the main stream to the ~yosemite creek ranger station~ on the ~tioga road~. there is here a government telephone. good camp sites will be found at the crossing a quarter of a mile east of the cabin and fair feed upstream. fishing is fair to poor. there are better camps, feed and fishing about three miles upstream. at the tioga road the trail is indistinct. we cross the bridge and follow up the east bank of yosemite creek on the main road until the blazes are sighted. the first third of a mile is easily traversed, but the following one and a quarter miles are rough. about three miles above the bridge is a meadow with abundant pasturage. this is a good campsite and fishing is fair upstream. in the next three miles the trail gradually ascends to an elevation of 9200 feet, leaving yosemite creek and passing over the flat divide into the tuolumne river drainage. at the summit one can leave the trail and walk southeast 1.5 miles to ~grant lakes~ (alt. 9500). these are two beautiful mountain lakes, the upper one being in a rugged cirque with sheer walls rising above at the east. both were stocked in 1917 with rainbow and eastern brook trout. the ten lakes trail continues north over the tableland and descends 600 feet by switchbacks into the ~ten lakes basin~ (alt. about 9400), seven miles from the tioga road. here are many ideal camp sites and good forage except early in the season. the lakes were stocked with eastern brook trout in 1908, 1913, 1915 and 1918 with loch leven in 1908, and with steelhead in 1918. fishing is reported excellent. a walk of one and a half miles due north takes us without climbing to the summit of ~grand mountain~ (alt. 9350), from which is obtained a most impressive view of the ~grand canyon of the tuolumne~ and ~muir gorge~ just below. a still finer and more comprehensive panorama may be had from the summit of ~colby mountain~ (alt. 9700) on the canyon rim 2.5 miles northeast from ten lakes. for this short side trip one should leave the trail just before its descent into the basin and follow northward on the ridge that juts out into the main tuolumne canyon. trail trip 11 yosemite to hetch hetchy _via_ yosemite creek, harden lake and smith meadow (31 miles--12 hours) from yosemite to hetch hetchy is a long one-day trail trip. the following route is not especially scenic, traversing as it does the rather flat forested plateau west of yosemite creek. the country north of the tioga road is heavily grazed. feed is sometimes scarce on this account, and the numerous cattle trails are often confusing. near hetch hetchy the railroad has obliterated about three miles of trail, making it necessary to follow the railroad grade. further changes may be expected as the work in hetch hetchy advances. from ~yosemite~ we follow trail trip 3 to the trail junction near the top of ~yosemite falls~ zigzags. here we continue straight ahead up the west bank of yosemite creek, passing beneath a beautiful forest of jeffrey pine, white and red fir, lodgepole pine and scattered western white pine. at about a quarter mile (four miles from yosemite) a trail branches left to ~eagle peak~ (trail trip 9). in tracing the following few miles up ~yosemite creek~ we often cross pavements of glaciated granite where will be found some magnificent specimens of mountain juniper. note also the potholes in the creek bed. at three and three-quarters miles from the eagle peak trail junction the ~ten lakes trail~ (trail trip 10) turns northeast, following up the main stream. our trail turns left and parallels the west branch of ~yosemite creek~, two and a half miles to the ~tioga road~, which we now follow northwestward for five miles, passing several meadows in which are good horse-feed and camp sites. one of the largest of these meadows is ~white wolf~. the small stream south of the road is the headwaters of the ~middle fork~ of the ~tuolumne river~. there is here fair fishing but the trout are small. at a point where the road curves to the southwest, the ~harden lake trail~ branches to the right. about one mile northward is a trail junction where the ~hetch hetchy trail~ turns westward and the ~harden lake and pate valley trail~ turns eastward. ~harden lake~ (alt. 7575) is but a few steps distant but invisible from the hetch hetchy trail. it is small and contains no trout, but offers an attractive campsite among the meadows and park-like forests. from harden lake we turn westward and for six miles ride thru unbroken forest to ~smith meadow~ on ~cottonwood creek~. here the ~smith peak trail~ turns northeast. the 1200 foot climb in two miles to ~smith peak~ (alt. 7835) is well worth a side trip, as it offers a superb panorama. the north slope drops precipitously 4200 feet to the grand canyon of the tuolumne. at smith meadow another trail follows down cottonwood creek and leads to ~hog ranch~, seven miles distant. our trail turns northeast and in five miles descends to the ~san francisco railroad~ grade, which it intersects about halfway between hog ranch and hetch hetchy. since the trail has here been obliterated it is necessary to follow the railroad grade which, with pack animals, is rather dangerous on account of the possible meeting with a train. two miles northward at the end of the railroad is the city camp and offices, and a short distance beyond, the dam-site. from here a good road descends to the floor of ~hetch hetchy~, about one mile distant. trail trip 12 yosemite to sierra point (4 miles--3 hours--round trip 1/2 day) for years there was a search for a point in yosemite from which the five great waterfalls--upper and lower yosemite, vernal, nevada and illilouette--might be seen. the quest was finally ended when in 1897 mr. charles a. bailey and a friend computed the location of such a point by triangulation. to their surprise it was not one of the dominating summits, but occurred rather low on the west flank of grizzly peak. the first ascent on june 14, 1897, proved the calculation to be correct and the crag was named sierra point in honor of the sierra club. the trail starts from ~happy isles~, which are 2.3 miles distant from yosemite. here we turn south on the main ~vernal~ and ~nevada falls trail~ or cross happy isles by the footpath. a quarter mile takes us to a spring and water-trough, where the ~sierra point trail~ branches to the left and ascends the flank of ~grizzly peak~ by switchbacks. a leisurely ascent may be made in forty-five minutes. from the point is not only a good view of the falls but an impressive panorama. the depths and distances are accentuated by the promontories being above the observer and the canyons far below. trail trip 13 little yosemite (round trip, 14 to 20 miles--6 to 12 hours) ~little yosemite~, although quite accessible and most charming in its diversity of scenery, beauty and absolute restfulness, remains unknown to most tourists. it deserves at least one day in one's yosemite itinerary. fishing is reported good and those interested in geology or botany will be well repaid by the trip. above nevada falls the canyon of the merced expands to broad level meadows walled in by precipitous cliffs 1500 to 2000 feet high. here in little yosemite are exhibited all of the yosemite features--dome structure, exfoliation, glacial phenomena, "royal arches," etc., but on a somewhat smaller scale. even the forests and flowers are similar, for the altitude is here only 6000 feet--two thousand feet higher than yosemite. the level floor, which has also resulted from the filling in of an ancient lake, is broken in but three places by the crests of terminal moraines, which extend across the valley and cause the merced to cascade beautifully in "silver aprons." in three miles the polished granite walls again converge to form a narrow canyon from which the river emerges, plunging over a beautiful cascade and into a picturesque glacial tarn. the most outstanding scenic feature of the valley is the perfectly formed ~sugarbowl dome~ (lately renamed bunnell point) at its head. ~lost lake~, near the south base of ~half dome~, is a swamp part of the season and later a boggy meadow. it is interesting only as being in the transition stage between mountain lake and mountain meadow. kah-winâ´-na-bahâ´ was the indian name for the valley as well as the large summer camp located there. the river was known as the yanopah. ~little yosemite~ is reached by following trail trip 1 to the top of the nevada falls zigzags, thence turning left and following trail trip 5 to the first junction, from which we continue up the canyon. the head of the canyon is three miles eastward. the region is an excellent place for a permanent camp away from the overcrowded valley and one may easily arrange at yosemite for the delivery here of a camp outfit and supplies. trail trip 14 half dome (round trip, 20 miles--12 hours) from the time yosemite was discovered, the mile-high summit of half dome was regarded as unattainable. the few mountaineers who attempted its ascent returned saying it would never be climbed. finally there came a young scotchman, captain george c. anderson, with an irrepressible determination to accomplish the feat. after all methods of clinging to the smooth, steeply inclined granite had failed he procured drills, hammer and eye-bolts, and set out to reach the summit by rising from peg to peg. slowly his ladder grew and finally his goal was reached on october 12, 1875. anderson was so enthused over the wonderful dome and the sublime views from the summit that he constructed a trail to "the saddle," from whence his pegs led to the top. here he determined to build a hotel, but his untimely death in a lonely cabin in little yosemite prevented its completion. in 1883 the pegs were swept away by a great, avalanche. some were later replaced by daring climbers, but the ascent remained so dangerous that it was seldom attempted. from 1899 no ascents were made until 1912, when two adventurous youths fastened ropes to the few remaining pegs and attained the summit. following this, the dome was frequently climbed. in 1919 a public-spirited citizen of san francisco donated the money to build a first-class trail to the summit. this was constructed under the auspices of the sierra club, and the once perilous ascent finally made safe to all. the round trip to the summit is one of the most thrilling and scenic one-day yosemite excursions. parties should start early and carry canteens. from ~happy isles~ the main ~glacier point trail~ (trail trip 1) should be followed (take the mist trail if walking) to the top of the ~nevada falls~ zigzags. here we turn left and follow the ~clouds rest trail~ (trail trip 5). a climb of 800 feet above the little yosemite valley takes us to a small stream. about 200 yards further, in a fine grove of jeffrey pine and incense cedar, the clouds rest trail bears to the right along a bench, while our trail climbs the long switchbacks to the left. the remaining 500-foot climb is thru dense forest. anderson's old trail crosses our route in one place and zigzags up the hillside about a quarter mile eastward. just below the ridge and about 200 yards to the right of the trail is a spring near the big pile of stones, which are the only relics of captain anderson's camp. canteens should be filled here, as no water will be found higher. a short climb takes us to the crest of the ridge at the lowest point between ~quarter domes~ (alt. 8276 and 8160) at the northeast and ~half dome~ at the southwest. at the ridge top is a forest of lodgepole pine and a sudden transition to pure fir as we cross to the northwestern slope where the climate is more severe. climbing beneath these firs we suddenly emerge at the crest and obtain a wide view of the ~high sierra~ on one side and the depths of ~tenaya canyon~ on the other. a few minutes' walk along the open ridge takes us to the rustic entrance which marks the beginning of the foot trail. the pile of timbers and boards nearby were hewn and split by captain anderson to be used for his half dome hotel. the foot-trail now climbs abruptly 250 feet by short zigzags and stairs to "~the saddle~," along the crest of which we continue to the base of the final ascent. if tennis shoes are to be used they should be put on at this point. the tool-box nearby contains ropes and safety belts for the use of the public, but the ascent is perfectly safe without them. from here an 800-foot double cable railing with iron posts every ten feet leads to the top. on the steep slopes are footholds, and at one place a fifty-foot ladder carries us over the most dangerous part of the ascent. turning to the right at the top of the cableway we follow the monuments across the surprisingly flat summit to the brink of the great northeast face, where we find an overhanging shelf of granite. the panorama at all sides is inexpressibly grand, but some of the valley features suffer by being dwarfed in the great distances below. the descent should be started not later than 3 to 4 p.m. in order to reach yosemite before dark. trail trip 15 yosemite to glacier point _via_ the ledge trail (2.5 miles. average 4 hours climb) next to half dome, the ~ledge trail~ is the most thrilling of yosemite climbs. the ascent was formerly quite dangerous, but in 1918 a safe foot-trail was constructed. the record ascent is fifty-three minutes, but this is a steep, hard, 3200-foot climb and will take the average individual three to five hours. the trail starts from the happy isles road, turning southward just east of the new ~le conte lodge~. it climbs the talus slope above ~camp curry~ and turns westward up a steep ledge. as the trail mounts to view-commanding heights there are many unusual and impressive glimpses into the depths below. reaching a steep canyon, the trail turns sharply to the left and climbs beside a small creek. ~the water is polluted~ and to drink it is dangerous. near the top, the trail gradually becomes less and less steep and finally crosses the canyon rim only a few feet distant from ~glacier point~ and the ~overhanging rock~. glacier point hotel is about 200 yards southward. trail trip 16 glacier point to sentinel dome (round trip, 2 miles in 2 hours) the short excursion from ~glacier point~ to the summit of ~sentinel dome~ is well worth while. the round trip can easily be made afoot in two hours and many hikers include it in their "glacier point" day. from the hotel we follow the ~chinquapin road~ about a quarter of a mile. just beyond a spring at the left of the road, the trail turns to the right and climbs abruptly beneath the firs and pines. gradually the forest becomes more open and park-like, and the firs are replaced by hardy jeffrey pines. during the last quarter mile of the ascent we pass over weathered granite which has exfoliated in slabs near the top. at the rounded summit is a gnarled and wind-blown jeffrey pine--probably the most photographed tree in the park. to the east is an exceptionally fine panorama of the high sierra. in returning to glacier point we follow the trail to the south, intersecting the road about 300 yards away. here we turn left, noting the soft decomposing granite which seems particularly susceptible to weather conditions. the distance beyond to the hotel is one and a half miles. trail trip 17 glacier point to fort monroe _via_ pohono trail reverse of trail trip 18 (11.7 miles--5 hours. round trip from yosemite, 24 miles--13 hours) this is one of the most beautiful yosemite trails. with very little climbing the trail parallels the south rim thru delightfully attractive forests and wild-flower gardens, emerging from time to time to reveal vast views across and into the valley. the round trip from yosemite to glacier point and thence to fort monroe via the pohono trail, returning to the valley via the wawona road is too long a trip to be attempted by the average walker in one day. it is best to stay over night at the glacier point hotel, starting early the next morning. leaving the ~glacier point hotel~ we follow the road southwestward about two miles, turning to the right at the ~pohono trail~ sign. we now follow thru a dense fir forest for one mile, emerging at the canyon rim at ~the fissures~. these are great cracks only a few feet wide and hundreds of feet deep. just beyond is ~taft point~ (alt. 7503). from here is a wonderful view, especially of the sheer 3500-foot precipices of ~el capitan~ and ~three brothers~ rising as massive buttresses of the great north wall. swinging south along the rim for a short distance, the trail again turns westward thru the fir forests passing beautiful small meadows and wild-flower gardens and descending to ~bridalveil creek~. the bridge has been destroyed but a foot-log is in place. there is fair fishing in this stream but the fish are small. bearing west and north and climbing slightly, the trail emerges at ~dewey point~ (alt. 7316), another of the promontories of the south rim. from here the ~cathedral rocks~ and ~leaning tower~ are viewed from an unusual angle, and ~el capitan~ and ~ribbon falls~ dominate the opposite wall. following the rim westward about half a mile we reach ~crocker point~ (alt. 7090), from which is obtained another vast outlook. descending 430 feet thru the forest we cross a small stream and emerge at ~stanford point~ (alt. 6659), another prominent lookout on the southern ramparts. about half a mile westward one sees ~old inspiration point~, from which yosemite was first seen by white men on march 21, 1851. retracing our path a short distance, we turn to the right and cross ~meadow brook~, which flows over ~widow's tears~ a quarter mile below. the vicinity is a mecca for flower lovers. the trail continues westward, dropping 1400 feet in the next one and a half miles to ~fort monroe~ (alt. 5540), an old stage relay station on the ~wawona road~. yosemite is eight miles eastward by this road. trail trip 18 fort monroe to glacier point _via_ pohono trail reverse of trail trip 17 (11.7 miles--5 hours. round trip from yosemite, 24 miles--13 hours) the ~pohono trail~ trip is one of the most beautiful of yosemite excursions. striking eastward from fort monroe on the wawona road, it traverses a delightful wooded country in which are some of the finest wild-flower gardens of the park. from time to time it emerges at the rugged ramparts of the south wall and affords many vast panoramas. the round trip from yosemite to fort monroe via pohono trail and return to the valley via the short trail is too long to be attempted by the average walker in one day. even the trip to glacier point by this route is a long one, and it is suggested that the itinerary outlined in trail trip 17 be followed in preference. at fort monroe, an old stage relay station on the wawona road, is a fairly good auto camp. from here one may visit all the lookout points on the south rim by an easy one-day walk, or may continue to the glacier point hotel (11.7 miles), returning the next day. the ~pohono trail~ turns eastward from the wawona road at ~fort monroe~, eight miles distant from yosemite. in the long steady climb of 1400 feet in the first two miles we cross two small mountain streams and near the top of the ascent pass about a quarter mile south of ~old inspiration point~ (alt. 6603), from which yosemite was first seen by white men on march 21, 1851. the gently sloping trail now winds beneath the firs thru most luxurious gardens of wild-flowers. shortly we cross ~meadow brook~ which, a quarter mile below, plunges over ~widow's tears~. trending northward about half a mile we now emerge at ~stanford point~ (alt. 6659), one of the promontories of the south rim. from here, as from all other lookouts along the top of the great south wall, is a vast panorama. retracing our path a short distance we turn to the left, cross another small brook, and climb 350 feet in the next half mile to ~crocker point~ (alt. 7090). closely paralleling the rim for another half mile we halt at ~dewey point~ (alt. 7316), the imposing apex of one of the great granite buttresses. ~cathedral rocks~ and the ~leaning tower~ are here viewed from an unusual angle. to the northward ~el capitan~ dominates the north wall and ~ribbon falls~ is most advantageously seen. a long detour to the southeast now takes us into the ~bridalveil creek basin~. the trail bridge has been destroyed, but a foot-log is in place. fishing is fair, but the trout are small. turning again eastward we continue thru the fir forests, passing beautiful small meadows and wild-flower gardens until we again approach the canyon rim, which we follow northward for a short distance to ~the fissures~. these are great cracks only a few feet wide and hundreds of feet deep. just beyond is ~taft point~ (alt. 7503). from here is a wonderfully vast view, especially of the sheer 3500-foot precipices of ~el capitan~ and ~three brothers~ on the north wall. following eastward along ~profile cliff~, our trail again enters the fir and lodgepole pine forest and leads across the gently sloping plateau about one mile to the ~glacier point road~. we here turn left and an easy walk of two miles takes us to the ~glacier point hotel~, where excellent accommodations will be found. the lookout point and overhanging rock are about 200 yards northward. for trail trips from glacier point consult trail trips 16 to 23. trail trip 19 glacier point to wawona _via_ alder creek trail (20.5 miles--7 hours) this is one of the oldest trails in the region and was the main thorofare to yosemite prior to the construction of roads. the "old timers" like to tell of the famous hostelries along the route--clark's, westfall's, peregoy's and mccauley's--which have long since ceased to be. the trail is not of great importance from the scenic stand-point, but offers a short-cut between its termini. throughout most of its course it is maintained in good condition. from ~glacier point~ we follow the road southwestward about two and a half miles. a short distance beyond the pohono trail turn-off, our trail branches to the right and enters the fir and pine forest. in the next four miles we first climb over a low spur and then descend into the basin of ~bridalveil creek~, where we cross the ~glacier point road~ at ~peregoy meadow~. this is a good camping place and forage is abundant. fishing in bridalveil creek is rather poor near the road. bearing southward, our trail emerges in one mile at ~westfall meadow~, another good campsite. passing across an almost imperceptible divide we cross the headwaters of ~alder creek~ and follow along the west side of its canyon thru a beautiful forest of western yellow pine, sugar pine, fir and cedar, part of which has lately been logged. about three and a half miles below westfall meadow is ~empire meadows~, where feed is abundant and camp sites good. fishing is fair but the trout are small. the nearest campsite downstream is at the creek crossing three miles further. here there is a fair camping place but forage is scarce. from this crossing wawona is about six and a half miles distant. rising a short distance above the stream, the trail follows the 5500-foot level detouring around the west flank of a well-wooded mountain. about three miles from the crossing, a trail to the right descends to ~alder creek ranger station~ on the ~wawona road~ about one mile distant. we now continue around the mountain, gradually bearing to the southeast. the trail in the last two miles is rather rough and zigzags abruptly down to the main road, which it intersects a short distance from ~wawona bridge~. the hotel, store and postoffice are just beyond. trail trip 20 glacier point to ostrander lake (13.5 miles--5 hours) at the very source of bridalveil creek and only five hours' easy walk from glacier point lies the picturesque ostrander lake, famous since the early days for its splendid fishing. the round trip from glacier point hotel (twenty-seven miles) may be made in one day by good hikers, but it is far better to camp at the lake at least one night in order to be there for the best fishing. motorists, by parking machines at the trail junction six miles southwest of glacier point on the chinquapin road, can easily make the round trip (fifteen miles) in one day. from ~glacier point~ we follow the ~chinquapin road~ about six miles to the point where a sign indicates the ~buck camp and ostrander lake trail~ turning to the left. this trail bears south, crossing a small tributary to ~bridalveil creek~, then continues through the open lodgepole pine forest and crosses the main stream about two miles from the road. a short distance beyond, the ~buck camp trail~ (trail trip 21) continues up the south branch of the creek. our trail turns abruptly to the east (left) and again crosses the main stream, following up the northeast bank. in the first two miles the trail is good, but the remaining three miles are somewhat rough and steep. ~ostrander lake~ (alt. 8600) is beautifully set in a glacial amphitheater on the north side of ~horse ridge~ (alt. 9600), which towers 1000 feet above. it is shallow on the north and west sides but deep under the bluffs, where are generally deep snowbanks. the lake was stocked with rainbow trout in 1892, 1893, 1899 and 1911, and with eastern brook trout in 1893 and 1899. fishing is excellent. ~buena vista lake~ (see trail trip 22) is about four miles distant and may be reached by walking southeast about two miles through open forest (no trail) on the north slope of horse ridge and joining the ~buena vista trail~ in ~buena vista canyon~. here we may turn south up the canyon, at the head of which is buena vista lake. trail trip 21 glacier point to chilnualna falls or johnson lake _via_ the buck camp trail (15.5 miles--6 hours) the old ~buck camp trail~ connects yosemite with the favorite hunting grounds of the chowchilla tribe. it traverses a beautifully wooded country but offers no startling scenic effects. from ~glacier point~ we follow the road southwestward about six miles to a junction, where our trail branches to the left. bearing southward we cross a small stream and traverse a rather flat lodgepole pine forest, finally fording ~bridalveil creek~. just beyond, and at a distance of about two miles from the road, the ~ostrander lake trail~ (trail trip 20) turns to the left. we continue southward, crossing a tributary of bridalveil creek and gradually mounting the slope beyond. as the trail turns southeast along the flat ridge, the wooded canyon of ~alder creek~ is seen to the west. two miles further on an almost imperceptible pass is traversed. just beyond is the source of one of the northern tributaries to ~chilnualna creek~. this we follow for about two miles to the main stream, where are good camp sites and abundant forage. fishing is fair but the trout are small. one mile further is the main ~chilnualna falls trail~. westward one and a half miles is the ~chilnualna ranger station~, with good camp sites in the vicinity, and a half mile further is the top of ~chilnualna falls~. the trail eastward leads to ~grouse lake~ (two miles), ~crescent lake~ (three and a half miles) and ~johnson lake~ (four and a half miles). trail trip 22 glacier point to johnson lake via the buena vista trail (16 miles--7 hours) this is a good new trail and is the most direct route between glacier point and the excellent fishing lakes of the southern part of the park. the one-way trip is an easy day's journey from glacier point. for those walking from yosemite there are good camp sites and excellent fishing _en route_ at buena vista and royal arch lakes. from ~glacier point~ we follow the main ~vernal-nevada falls trail~ about two miles. just east of ~illilouette ridge~ we take the right branch and continue southeastward up the canyon of the illilouette. about three miles takes us to another trail junction. to the west is ~mono meadow~, about one and a half miles distant, and to the northeast, crossing ~illilouette creek~, are the ~merced pass trail~ (trail trip 23) and the cut-off trail to the rim of ~panorama cliff~. our trail continues up ~illilouette creek~, finally crossing a low "hog back" and turning south up ~buena vista creek~. in a glacial cirque at its head is ~buena vista lake~ (alt. 9200). the south, or upper side is backed by a rugged rock bluff from which huge boulders have fallen into the water, making an excellent place from which to fish. the lake was stocked with eastern brook trout in 1892, 1908 and 1919, and with rainbow trout in 1892. it is one of the park's best and most accessible fishing lakes. surrounded by open parks of timber, it offers many beautiful camp sites, especially near the outlet. forage is fair downstream from the lake but is rather scarce early in the season. ostrander lake is four miles northeast and can be reached by foot. there are no blazes or monuments to mark the route. our trail now mounts abruptly 400 feet to ~buena vista pass~ (alt. 9600). to the right about half a mile is ~buena vista peak~ (alt. 9600), and to the left and running east is ~buena vista crest~. excellent views are obtained from the trail as it crosses the open ridge. near the summit the granite has fractured perpendicularly, forming regular rectangular slabs. an 800-foot descent thru the open forest in the next two miles takes us to the picturesque little ~royal arch lake~ (alt. 8800). this is a small lake, deep on the north and east sides, and shallow near the southwest margin. it is named from the arches in the steep northeast granite wall, which are similar to the royal arches of yosemite valley but on a smaller scale. the lake was well stocked with eastern brook trout in 1897 and fishing is excellent, especially in the deep water along the rocky northwest shore. there are fine camp sites here and good horse-feed. skirting the west margin of the lake our trail follows the small stream about one mile to the main ~chilnualna trail~. eastward is ~buck camp~ (two miles), ~moraine meadows~ (seven miles), and ~fernandez pass~ (eleven miles). we turn westward to ~johnson lake~ (alt. 8550), about a quarter mile distant. this is a small, round, deep lake beautifully set in meadows and forest. it is bountifully stocked with eastern brook trout and rainbow trout. the locality is ideal for camping. further westward are ~crescent lake~ (one mile), ~grouse lake~ (two and a half miles), and ~chilnualna falls~ (six and a half miles). trail trip 23 yosemite or glacier point to moraine meadows _via_ the merced pass trail (from yosemite, 22 miles--10 hours. from glacier point, 18 miles--7 hours) the ~merced pass trail~ has been replaced to a large extent by the more scenic and better built buena vista trail, which offers a short-cut to the splendid fishing lakes in the upper basin of the south fork of the merced. for those whose destination is the wild country at the headwaters of the san joaquin river, the merced pass trail is still the preferable route. the upper basin of illilouette creek abounds in glacial phenomena and fishing is reported good. from yosemite we follow the ~vernal and nevada falls trail~ (trail trip 1) as far as the rim of ~panorama cliff~ just above nevada falls. here we turn to the right on the ~mono meadow trail~, which bears due south four miles to the main stream of ~illilouette creek~. to reach this point from ~glacier point~ one should follow the ~vernal-nevada falls trail~ (trail trip 2) for two miles, turn to the right on the ~buena vista trail~ (trail trip 22), and after three miles more turn to the left on the ~mono meadow trail~. a short distance will take one to the banks of ~illilouette creek~. at this point--twelve miles from yosemite and five and a half miles from glacier point--the ~merced pass trail~ turns eastward, following for ten miles up the main stream of the illilouette and keeping always within a short distance of its north bank. gradually ascending to an elevation of 9295 feet, we traverse ~merced pass~. to the right is the long ridge of ~buena vista crest~ (alt. 9712). a descent of 600 feet in the next two miles takes us to ~moraine meadows~. this is a splendid camping region with abundant horse-feed and good fishing. nearby will be found a summer ranger outpost. a trail to the east leads to ~fernandez pass~ and the headwaters of the ~san joaquin~; one to the southeast to ~chain o' lakes~, where is most excellent fishing; and one to the west to ~royal arch~, ~johnson~, ~crescent~ and ~grouse lakes~ and ~chilnualna falls~. trail trip 24 wawona road to el portal _via_ the sunset trail (4 miles--1-1/2 hours) this is a cut-off trail widely used by the park rangers in their winter patrols but seldom used by the public. starting from the ~wawona road~ one and a half miles northwest of ~chinquapin~, the trail runs down the ridge on the north side of ~indian creek~. swinging to the north, the trail passes just west of ~lookout point~, from which is a fine view down the canyon of the merced. bearing to the right, it descends to ~avalanche creek~, where it passes just below ~cougar falls~. the trail then zigzags down the canyon wall to the midwinter ranger station and trail bridge across the ~merced river~, joining the ~el portal road~, about three miles above el portal. trail trip 25 wawona road to el portal _via_ the hennessy trail (10 miles--4 hours) the ~hennessy trail~ is no longer used by the public since the bridge across the merced at its lower end was washed away in 1917. use the sunset trail (trail trip 24). [illustration: map of yosemite valley and adjacent region from u.s.g.s. topographic map of yosemite national park scale â· 1 inch = 2 miles contour interval 100 feet] sunset publishing house, san francisco transcriber's note: inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have been preserved. obvious typographical errors have been corrected. italic text is denoted by _underscores_. on page 64 "phenicians" may be a typo for "phoenicians". on page 78 "sterites" may be a typo for "stearites". on page 93 "asisis" may be a typo for "assisi". in the index, hyphens indicate both a range of numbers (156-158) and a series of numbers (157-172-174). inconsistent punctuation in the ads section has been retained as printed. the book uses both san josé, and san jose. bancroft's tourist's guide yosemite. san francisco and around the bay, (south.) san francisco: a. l. bancroft & company, 1871. entered according to act of congress, in the year 1871, by a. l. bancroft & co., in the office of the librarian of congress, at washington, d. c. bancroft's steam printing, lithographing, engraving and book-binding establishment, san francisco, cal. contents. preface, 4 introduction, 7 routes and expenses, 13-24 yosemite valley, 25 the big trees, calaveras, 52 mariposa, 57 other groves, 67 bower cave, 72 alabaster cave, 77 index to san francisco, 89 san francisco, 95 excursion routes, 205 sacramento, 232 stockton, 243 oakland, 209 san jose, 212 mt. diablo, 227 lake tahoe, 250 donner lake, 251 preface. this is a pocket guide to yosemite valley and the big trees, with the best routes thither and thence. it also includes san francisco with the cities, towns, caves, mines and beaches within a hundred miles south and east of this city. we have tried to make it accurate and reliable in all statements of routes, distances, time required, conveyances, fares, hotels, rates, etc., making a snug, neat and tasteful book, to be sold at a low rate on all overland trains and ocean steamers bound hither, meeting all tourists, excursionists and travelers some hundreds of miles before they reach san francisco, posting them on all the most attractive spots in the state, and answering in advance all necessary questions, thus enabling them, before setting foot in the city, to plan their excursions, decide upon routes, choose conveyances, select hotels, and calculate expenses. and then, when they have actually been over the whole ground, and thoroughly tested it, find everything "_just as the book said_." true, we already have three or four costly volumes, written for a similar purpose, but we claim that for the ordinary use of the average tourist this is superior to any or all of them in at least three important particulars: 1st. it omits all tedious, long-drawn, and unnecessarily minute descriptions, which may occasionally suit some very critical or scientific tourist, but whose chief value is to _guide_ the traveler's money into the publisher's pocket. 2d. it contains brief descriptions of all the most notable curiosities and wonders of the state. its statements are drawn from the latest official scientific sources, or taken from the personal observation and actual measurements of the writer, made expressly for this work. 3d. it is compact and economical of time, space and money, none of which the tourist usually cares to waste or lose or throw away. the public have called for it, and we have done our best to respond, with the material, and in the time, at our command. that it contains _no_ mistakes we do not claim, but that it includes fewer than any similar book we confidently affirm. we have availed ourselves of every practicable source of reliable information up to date, june, 1871. in a new and fast-growing state, like ours, where railroad companies sometimes lay nearly a league of track a day, it is simply impossible that any publication should remain perfectly accurate in every particular, even for twenty-four hours after its issue. we pledge ourselves to disappoint no reasonable expectation, and shall thankfully receive and gratefully appreciate any correction or later information which any traveler, railroad, stage or saddle-train agent, or hotel manager, will kindly communicate. in response to many calls, constantly repeated, and now pressingly urged, we offer this little common-sense hand-book guide, which truthfully tells tourists just where to go; how far it is; how to get there; when to start; whom to stop with; how long it takes; and, how much it costs. san francisco, cal., june, 1871. yosemite. you are going to yosemite. of course you are. what else did you come to california for? the idea of a man in his right mind, having the slightest love of beauty, grandeur and sublimity, coming to california and _not_ going to yosemite! why, it's preposterous; it's incredible; it's impossible. we may as well dismiss the thought at once. of _course_ you go. so that's settled. now, _when_ will you go? if you have means and are sure of time to see all the wonders and beauties which the state offers, then might you wisely and safely leave the best until the last; that is, reserve yosemite for your final trip before you return. but, lest time or cash should fail, or sudden summons hasten your departure, it is wisest and safest to make sure of it at once while you may. it would never do to go back east, confront inquiring friends, and have to humbly confess that you _had_ been to california, but had _not_ seen yosemite. then, _how_ shall you go. if you are fresh and strong, with the nerve and muscle of a young and enthusiastic college pedestrian, you can do it on foot, as bayard taylor did europe. it's the most independent and enjoyable way of all if you have time and disposition, and no ladies in your party. if you _should_ wish to try that, get a copy of the overland monthly for july, 1870, turn to the article "yosemite on foot," and you have your guide. if you haven't time or ambition to distinguish yourself by emulating weston, you may possibly contemplate an excursion on hoofs. several parties have done yosemite on all fours, and report a tough american nag, or a wiry little mexican mustang as an indispensable auxiliary. parties who wish to avoid the sense of dependence, as well as the pecuniary expense of hiring a stable horse, frequently buy a tough native horse for seventy-five or a hundred dollars, use him for the entire trip, with no expense beyond that of daily feeding, keep him until they have finished their tour, and then sell him for nearly as much, in some cases even more, than they paid. mounted in this way you accomplish a sort of vicarious pedestrianism, gladly substituting equine hoofs for human heels, while the animal himself rejoices in a responsible backer in the bifurcated person of your bestriding self; or, still again, it may be--it probably _does_ be, as our little four-year-old says--that you are too fashionably _lazy_,--i beg pardon, i meant to say, it is possible that you have inherited a constitutional aversion to protracted exertion, which, by long indulgence, has quite unfitted you for the thoroughly manly or womanly pursuit of grandeur, beauty, and pleasure in the saddle--chasing health on horseback. one other way remains, before you fall back upon the fashionable and feeble way of "being carried" in the regular, orthodox and popular style, which suffers you to attempt no personal exercise beyond "the heavy looking on." you may combine saddle and wagon: that is, take a strong wagon, carrying tent, provisions and cooking apparatus, with one or two of the more unskillful riders on the seat, while the others in the saddle revolve as equestrian satellites around. but if you decide, as most do, and as you probably will, to take no responsibility and cumber yourself with no care, you select one of the various public routes, seek out its agent, make your contract, give up all planning and providing on your own part, pay over your coin, take your tickets for the round trip, commit yourself to one of the various lines of public conveyances, dismiss all anxiety and give yourself up to receive and absorb all the pleasure that may lie along the route, or await you at its end. and if your object is simply enjoyment, untroubled by exertion, and unmixed with anxiety, that is, undoubtedly, the best way. you are in san francisco, at the grand, at the occidental, at the lick house or the cosmopolitan. in their luxurious beds you have slept off the fatigue of thirty-three hundred miles across the continent, and at their bountiful tables you have fed yourself into courage and spirit for new and further enterprise. you have come forth so fresh and brave that you feel ready for eight thousand miles more, straight across the tranquil pacific; or climbing, unaided, the loftiest vertebral peak of that spinal range which furnishes the backbone of the continent. your new vigor has let off its frothy effervescence in sundry spasmodic dashes about the city and around its suburbs. you have driven to the cliff house, interviewed the seals, climbed telegraph hill, rusticated at woodward's, spent an afternoon at bancroft's, crossed to oakland, inspected alcatraz and fort point, and, in short, completed the little day-trips and half-day tours which so restfully entertain the newly-arrived traveler, gradually acclimate him to our occidental air and familiarize him with our cosmopolitan people. you feel strong and fresh: ready for the grand excursion. all your drawing-room and dining-table suits are snugly packed in trunks, folded away in drawers or carefully hung in wardrobe or clothespress. the roughest, strongest and warmest suit in your possession you have donned. specially provide good stout, yet easy, boots or shoes, with the softest and most comfortable of socks or stockings. remember that every day brings two climates, a cool or even cold one for morning and evening, with a hot and dusty noon sandwiched between. umbrellas and rubber blankets you won't need, though a good traveling shawl will serve you frequently and well. stovepipe hats are an abomination--a hard hat of any shape, first cousin to it, and the extra wide brimmed ladies' picnic hat, closely akin to both. browns, drabs and grays are your best colors; linens and woolens your best materials; fine flannels next the skin, and especially provide plenty of something soft and thick to come between you and the horse, during the necessary miles in the saddle. this last is not a matter of choice, but of necessity. calculate to spend at least two weeks in the valley, and allow two or even three days each way for your trip in and out. of course you can go faster and quicker if you wish or must, but of all excursions imaginable, yosemite most needs deliberation and leisure. these are precisely the two things of which the average american tourist has the least. whence it has happened that very few indeed, especially of our own countrymen, have ever really _visited_ yosemite. hundreds have dashed in, plunged around and rushed out. horace greeley staid about as long as it would take him to rush off one of his patent chain-lightning, hieroglyphic tribune editorials. he rode in at midnight, reached his lodging at one o'clock in the morning, too tired to eat, and too sore to tell of it; went to bed, sick, sore and disgusted. up late next morning, so lame he could hardly sit in his saddle, hobbled hurriedly around three or four hours, and was on his way out again at a little after noon. many of the grandest sights he didn't even catch the remotest glimpse of; those he did see he just glanced at, too weary to appreciate their slightest beauty, and too hurried to allow himself time to begin to grow to the true scale of their grandeur; and having given to the whole valley about one quarter of the time necessary to thoroughly study, intelligently enjoy and heartily appreciate the least of its wonders, he has the presumption to fancy he has "been to yosemite." the fact is, he never really _saw_ a single object about the valley, except, possibly, the giant cliff, tu-toch-ah-nu-lah, which, as he says, looked as if it might have leaned over and buried him beneath its vastness, and which, as i say, _would_, doubtless, have done so speedily, had it known that the shabby rider who shambled along under its base that moonlight night, sore at one end, sleepy at the other, and sick all the way between, was going to rush off and talk so inadequately, unworthily and even untruthfully about objects which no human eye ever did see or could see in the condition of his sleep-oppressed optics on that slumbrous august morning. he has the cheek to declare that the fall of yosemite is a humbug. it would be interesting to know what the fall thought of greeley. one thing is sure, all earlier and later visitors unite in the opinion that the only humbug in the valley that year went out of it in his saddle about three o'clock on that drowsy august afternoon, and has never since marred the measureless realities which he sleepily slandered. the simple fact is, mr. greeley saw the little which he did see three or four months too late in the season. if he ever comes again, at the right time, and stays to really _see_ the wonders of the valley, he will be heartily ashamed of what he then wrote, and freely pardon his present critic. meantime, exit h. g. we bear thee no malice. the soul that can see and feel as little as thine did in yosemite provokes no anger, but only sorrow and compassion. for the sake of thy sore and raw and sadly-pummeled body, we freely forgive the terribly shaken soul that inhabited it on that memorable midnight when horse and saddle maliciously united in assault and battery on the most sensitive portion of thine editorial corporosity. vale, greeley, vale. the next time thou comest hither, wear what hat thou likest and match it with what suit may please thee best, but if thou lovest life, and wouldst see good days, tell, oh horace, tell the truth. pardon our digression to greeley. we have spent so much time on him, not because he occasionally scribbles illegible manuscript for a new and struggling paper in a small eastern village, but because he came faster, arrived sorer, stayed fewer hours, saw less of the valley, and slandered it more than any one else has ever attempted. olive logan spoke disparagingly of the yosemite fall, but the fall is still there. she adds some slanderous remarks about the conduct of the drivers along the route, to which the only fitting answer would be these questions: "when a man or a woman, all alone in a room, looks into a mirror, and doesn't see a gentleman or lady reflected therein--_whose fault is it?_ is the difficulty in the glass or in _front_ of it?" but let us start. from san francisco to yosemite there are three routes. all of them carry one, first, to or near stockton, which city we reach by rail or river, and all of them bring us, at last, into the valley by one of the only two trails which enter it. between the outer ends of these trails and stockton, or vicinity, lie the various intermediate places or way stations which have given name to the routes which pass through them, and concerning which the tourist chiefly needs reliable information. looking upon any good map, not drawn in the exclusive interest of some one of these rival routes, you can easily see for yourself, spite of all agents' representations, which is the most direct way, geographically or topographically. we now mention these in regular order, reckoning from north to south; that is, _down the map_, as we used to say at school. for convenience, we may distinguish the three routes as the upper or north route, the middle route, and the lower or south route. big oak flat route. the upper or north route is commonly called the big oak flat, or the hutchings route. if we go by this, we can either go directly into the valley, or make a detour by way of the calaveras big trees. the following table showing distances, times and conveyances, by the straight and quick way. to yosemite valley--direct. ========================================================== from | to | miles.| hours. | by ---------------+--------------+-------+--------+--------- san francisco | stockton | 90 | 10 | steamer. stockton | milton | 28 | 1¼ | car. milton | chinese camp | 24 | 4 | stage. chinese camp | garrote | 14 | 2½ | " garrote | tamarack | 32 | 6 | " tamarack | yosemite | 11 | 4 | saddle. | +-------+--------+ | | 199 | 27¾ | ---------------+--------------+-------+--------+---------by the above way you leave san francisco at four o'clock p.m., from the wharf, at the foot of broadway, by one of the california pacific railroad company's steamers for stockton. you have a fine afternoon and sunset view of san francisco, the shipping, oakland, yerba buena and alcatraz islands, the golden gate, angel island, mount tamalpais, san quentin, san pablo bay, vallejo, mare island, suisun bay, benicia, martinez, and mount diablo. those who have crossed the continent by rail find this sail a pleasant change. they avoid the dust, get a good night's rest on the steamer, reach stockton at from two to three o'clock in the morning, breakfast at six, and at seven take the cars of the stockton and copperopolis railroad from the station near the landing. we reach milton, twenty-eight miles, at 8.20, find the stage waiting, and immediately embark, and are off at once. the road lies through a mountainous country, well timbered. the air is clear and invigorating, and the scenery sublime. the road is good, the stages first-class, and the drivers obliging. about one we reach chinese camp, and after twenty-four miles staging are ready for a half-hour's rest and a good dinner; or, we may wait for both until we reach garrote, fourteen miles farther. here either of two good hotels will feed and lodge us. next morning we'd better dress for the horse-back ride in the afternoon. lay aside all superfluous luggage and pack your extra nice clothing, if you have been foolish enough to bring any, in your valise. a small hand-satchel you can pack behind you on the horse, or take it before you. let it be as small and snugly-packed as possible. one word further, and a most important one, especially to ladies. calculate to _ride astride_, and dress for it. you can wear a long skirt to tamarack, but beyond it is a nuisance. a woman who has only one leg, or has two on one side, may have some excuse for the unnatural, ungraceful, dangerous and barbarous side-saddle. the last word was prompted by remembering the raw back of the beautiful horse which carried miss dix into the valley, under the old, conventional, side-saddle. the lady is, unquestionably, a noted philanthropist, but that poor horse probably never suspected it. anna dickinson rode in man-fashion, arrived fresh and strong, and so did her horse. ask her animal if he wants to carry that lady again and he'll never say nay (neigh). on a trip like this the side-saddle is barbarous to the horse and dangerous to the rider. the only good thing about it is that it jolts and racks and strains and tires the rider so outrageously, that it is fast converting many women to the sensible and safe way. from tamarack flat the road dwindles to a trail, winds among pine trees, crosses an occasional rivulet, commands a fine outlook through the trees, now and then, and finally, almost before you know it, brings you to the brink of the valley. thence let your horse have his head. he'll take care of himself and you too--land you safely at the foot of the trail, and deposit you at hutchings' by five or six o'clock, in good time for the ample dinner which will be waiting. if you wish to take the calaveras big trees on your way, you can do so, either going or coming, by taking the same general route as far as milton, to which place the times, distances, and conveyances are the same as in the table already given. from milton you take stage through murphy's to sperry & perry's hotel, where you dine in the very shadows of the big tree grove. having stayed among the vegetable monsters as long as you can, you return thence by stage to sonora, twenty-nine miles; time six hours; from sonora to garrote, also by stage, twenty-five miles in five hours, and then you strike the same road which you would travel by going directly in, so that the conveyances, time and distances of the former table will also serve you hence. as we said a few paragraphs back, these two routes are not really separate and distinct routes, as nearly one hundred and twenty miles on the western end, and about fifty miles at the eastern end, are the same in both. the time occupied in going or coming by the way of the trees is twelve and one half hours more than by the direct route, and the fare is seven dollars more, besides, of course, the expense of one night's lodging and two meals more on the route, than will be necessary to one going directly in. the second route, the middle one, is the coulterville route, so named from the principal town through which it passes, which took its own name from general coulter, who still manages the business of the line. by this route you leave san francisco at four p.m., by cars on central pacific railroad; change cars at lathrop for modesto, arriving same evening. remain over night at the ross house, james cole, proprietor, and leave by stage at eight a.m. for coulterville, forty-eight miles, ten hours, arriving at six p.m. you dine at la grange, twenty-eight miles from modesto. stay all night at wagner's hotel, coulterville, where supper, lodging and breakfast cost you $2.50. next morning rise early, take a good hot breakfast, leave coulterville at five o'clock for gobin's ranch at crane's flat, thirty miles, where you are due at twelve. dine at gobin's for $1.00. at one o'clock leave gobin's by saddle train, arriving at black's hotel, in the valley, fifteen miles, at six p.m., thus taking it leisurely, especially down the mountain-side trail into the valley, where no animal can go fast and keep his feet, and no rider can hurry and save his neck. returning, leave the valley at six in the morning, and reach gobin's, crane flat, at eleven, taking five hours, the same time as when going in, as horses can go full as fast _up_ the trail as down. dine at gobin's, as when going in. leave crane flat at twelve, and reach coulterville at half past five, where the same hotel, wagner's, accommodates you with supper, lodging and breakfast, and at the same rates as before. leave coulterville at six next morning, and drive twenty-eight miles to roberts', where we dine, at noon. from roberts' to modesto is twenty miles. we are due at modesto at from four to half past four p.m. from modesto we may take cars for stockton and sacramento, at five, and go through direct to either of those places. but if we wish to return to san francisco, we stop at lathrop, in a station where an excellent dinner or supper can be had for 75 or 50 cents; and wait until eleven p.m., when a freight train, with sleeping car attached, comes along and bring us to san francisco at half past seven next morning. this route gives regular rest, takes one through a beautiful and picturesque country, from the fact that, after striking the foothills, it lies along the dividing ridge between the tuolumne and merced rivers. on the east lies the sierra nevada, with castle peak, mount dana, and other prominent points, while westward it commands a view of the san joaquin valley and the coast range. to this may be added the fact that as a good part of the road runs east and west, and as the prevailing winds are northerly, the dust is blown away to one side instead of along with you. another and very great advantage of this route is that, from and after the fifteenth of this month, june, 1871, it will run stages to the very brink of the valley, leaving but two and a half miles of saddle riding to the valley below, and only seven miles on horseback to the hotels. this same advantage will then be true, also, of the big oak flat, or hutchings' route, which enters the valley by the same trail. mariposa route. this is the lower, or southern route, taking its name from that of its chief town, mariposa, once famous as the seat of fremont's famous "estate," with its gold mines of supposed exhaustless wealth. this route takes one by california pacific railroad from san francisco, through lathrop to modesto, one hundred and one miles; thence ninety-six miles of staging, through snelling's, hornitos, bear valley, and white & hatch's (stop over night) to clark & moore's, at the end of staging. from clark's to the brink of the valley, by saddle, is twenty-three miles, and thence to the hotels, seven miles; making a total of thirty miles horseback riding. as an offset to this the mariposa route claims the advantage of the view from inspiration point, which lies nearly a mile off the direct trail, and for grandeur and beauty is certainly all that can be claimed or desired. besides the view from inspiration point, this route also presents the attraction of the mariposa big trees, six miles from clark's, and requiring an additional expense of $2.50 for each horse, besides the cost of another day's board and the fee of the guide. the calaveras trees, while equally grand and beautiful and even loftier, have the great advantage of an excellent hotel in the very midst of them, so that the tourist can spend much more time in rambling among their monumental bulks. besides the three routes already named, two others have been opened during the present season. the first of these may be called the mokelumne hill route. parties of eight, leaving san francisco on the morning train, or sacramento on the noon train, can take stage at mokelumne station, at 1.30 p.m., reach mokelumne hill the same evening at seven o'clock, stay all night, and reach the calaveras big trees at noon next day. price, from san francisco to the trees, and return, $17.00; from sacramento to the trees and back, $15.50. parties of four will be taken for $15.00 each from mokelumne station to the trees and back, in first class coaches and carriages. any wishing to try this route can address peck & co., mokelumne hill. from the trees one can go on to the valley by regular stages, and come out by any trail he likes, by making previous arrangements accordingly. the second additional route is known as hamilton's new route. by this route the tourist from either san francisco or stockton takes the western pacific railroad to galt, whence stages leaving at one p.m., carry him by the way of ione city and valley, through jackson to mokelumne hill, where he arrives at 7 p.m., and stays over night. leave mokelumne hill at 6.30 next morning; take the direct route through railroad flat and reach the big trees at noon. fare, for the round trip from san francisco or sacramento, $20.00. from either city to the big trees, $12.00, leaving one free to go from the grove to yosemite, when and as he likes. independent trips, are commonly made in one of three ways: 1st. by private wagons, taking camping apparatus, cooking utensils and provisions along. 2d. in the saddle, taking apparatus, utensils and food along on pack horses. 3d. on foot, taking as little as possible, and depending mainly on hotels and wayside ranches or farm houses for the necessary meals and lodging, unless you choose to lodge in your own blankets. i. by private wagons. parties of from four to thirty try this method every season, and report themselves delighted with the enjoyment of it, and subjected to an average expense not exceeding $2.00 a day for each one of a party less than eight, or $1.50, or even less, a day for a party of from twelve to thirty. ii. by saddle and pack animals. by this method the party is still more independent than by wagons, as hoofs can go where wheels cannot. the expense is about the same, as what is saved in the hire of wagons is balanced by the cost of the greater number of horses where there must be one animal for each person in the party, besides from one to four, or even six, animals to carry camp equipage and food. iii. on foot. for complete independence, combined with the ability to go where and as you please, unconfined by roads or trails, this is the best way of all. you can feed and lodge at hotels and wayside houses, or you can take along blankets and lodge where night overtakes you. to the untrained this may seem exceedingly rough and uncomfortable; to those who have fairly tried it, you will have no need to recommend it. hotel rates along these routes. the hotel rates vary but little by whatever route you may go or come. you will seldom find a meal or a lodging as low as fifty cents, especially among the mountains and at the places most frequented by summer travel. the more common price is seventy-five cents for either, and as we approach the valley, or the big trees, we may calculate on that figure as the usual cost. the reasonable tourist,--and those who have souls great enough to lead them to nature's wonders are supposed to be reasonable at least,--will readily see two good reasons why the charges along routes like these must be relatively higher than along the more frequently and permanently traveled routes of the thickly settled portions of the state: 1st, everything which requires transportation, furniture, carpets, and all articles of food which cannot be raised in the immediate vicinity, necessarily cost much more for transportation than where steamers or cars bring them almost to the door. 2nd, the travel along all such routes, and the consequent profit upon that travel, must be made within less than one third of the year. during the remaining two thirds, furniture must stand unused, and nearly the whole amount invested for the accommodation of tourists must remain idle, not only yielding no income, but actually becoming a source of additional expense until the opening of a new season. we have no disposition to apologize for any extortionate or unreasonable charges; for we are very happy to say that any such apology is rarely needed. every experienced and fair-minded traveler knows that his fellow passengers are unreasonable and extortionate in _their_ demands fully as often as the transportation companies and their agents are in theirs. the various lines into the valley and the big trees are managed by men who realize perfectly well that the amount of patronage they receive, and consequently, the profits which they make, must depend upon their gaining and keeping the good will of the traveling public. there is plenty of opposition; among the rival lines, no one has or can obtain any monopoly. the sensible and safe way, here, as everywhere, is to make a definite agreement beforehand. don't trust _any_ stranger's assurance that "we'll make _that all right_." that very fair sounding phrase has made more trouble than almost any other of equal length. the trouble is that it has two meanings. the speaker's "all right" means, for himself, and the hearer's "all right" means for _himself_, too; hence the frequent upshot of such loose understanding is, that it proves a complete _mis_understanding, when they come to settle. distinctly specify what is to be done; how it is to be done; by whom and when; and then add at least ten per cent. to the specified cost for those little extras which will inevitably force themselves upon you in almost every trip. thus you may escape adding yourself to the list of those improvident ones whose usual exclamation at the close of any pleasure trip is "it cost me a great deal more than i _expected_; _and i always thought it would_." valley hotels. there are three--hutching's, black's, and liedig's. any of them will keep you well for from $3.00 to $3.50 a day, or $20.00 a week. hutchings' is the farthest up the valley and nearer the greater number of points of interest. hutchings himself, as poor dan setchell used to make captain cuttle say of his friend "ole sol gills," is the "chuck-fulledest man o' science," in all matters pertaining to the valley and its history, that one can find in the state. he keeps an excellent house and usually entertains the more distinguished literary and scientific tourists. the yosemite branch of the western union telegraph now completed and working as far as garrote, will be extended into the valley and have its office at hutchings, by july 1st. black's is a new house, built expressly for the increased travel of late years--having excellent bath and other accommodations, with well-finished and furnished rooms. it stands three quarters of a mile nearer the west end of the valley. liedig's is also new, and is specially noted for the bountiful supply of well-cooked food which usually loads its hospitable table, under the immediate and personal superintendence of its obliging hostess. it is situated nearly in front of the base of sentinel rock. each of these houses, of course, has its warm friends, loud in its praises. all of them do their best for the satisfaction of guests and any one of them will provide the tourist with a comfortable home. horses and guides in the valley. for a good horse and saddle the charge is $2.50 a day, or for a trip, if it occupies such part of the day that the animal cannot go out on any other one the same day. if you propose to stay a week or more, and wish to engage the same horse for your regular and exclusive use every day during that time, you can do so for one fifth less; sometimes lower than that. the horses are good, trusty, serviceable beasts, trained to their business and generally safe and reliable. going into or coming out from the valley with any regular trip, over any route, you have nothing to do with providing or paying for a guide. one accompanies the saddle-train each way. in and about the valley, you can have the company and attention of a practiced and competent guide for $3.00 a day--or, a trip. the guide's fee is the same whether the party be small or large. no tourist who has the nerve and muscle of an average man or woman really _needs_ either horse or guide. the valley is only seven miles long and but a mile wide. the perpendicular walls, from three to five thousand feet high, shut you in all around. you certainly can't get _out_; and with so many prominent landmarks all about you, you can't get _lost_, unless you try very hard indeed. with a good guide-book before you and well-rested legs under you, a very moderate exercise of common sense will take you all about the valley, and enable you thoroughly to explore its wonders "on foot and alone" if you choose so to go. bear in mind, however, that you are nearly a mile--in some places more than a mile--above the sea; that the atmosphere is rare and light; that you need to restrain your impulse to _dash_ about, especially at first. for the first two or three days "go slow"--take it moderately; see _less_ than you think you might, rather than more. as you become more familiar with the character of the rocks and ravines and accustomed to the exertion of climbing about them, you can extend your excursions and attempt harder things. for the longer trips, such as the ascent of the sentinel rock, it may be safer and wiser to employ a good guide. expenses. the total necessary expenses by each route are: 1st. by big oak flat (hutchings') route: from san francisco to yosemite valley, _or_ return $20 from san francisco to yosemite _and_ return 38 from san francisco to the calaveras big trees, _or_ return 10 from san francisco to the calaveras big trees and valley, _or_ return 25 from san francisco to the calaveras big trees and valley, _and_ return 45 thomas houseworth & co., agents, 317 and 319 montgomery street, san francisco. 2d. by the coulterville route: from san francisco to yosemite valley, _or_ return $20 from san francisco to yosemite valley, _and_ return 38 g. w. coulter, agent, 214 montgomery street, san francisco. 3d. by mariposa route: from san francisco to yosemite valley, _or_ return $25 from san francisco to yosemite valley, _and_ return 45 ed. harrison, agent, grand hotel, san francisco. board and lodging en route, per day $3 00 board and lodging in the valley, per day 3 00 board and lodging at big trees, per day 3 00 board and lodging in either place, per week 20 00 horses in valley, or to big trees, per day 2 50 guides in valley or to big trees, per day 3 00 total expenses of excursion. 1. to yosemite valley, direct, by big oak or coulterville, stay one week in the valley, hiring guide and horse three days, and returning by same route $80 2. above excursion, including calaveras big trees 90 3. to yosemite valley direct, by mariposa, staying a week in the valley, hiring guide and horse three days, and coming out same way 87 4. above excursion, including mariposa big trees 93 5. in by big oak flat or coulterville, and out by mariposa, or _vice versa_, other conditions as above 87 6. in by mariposa, and out by big oak flat, visiting _both_ groves of big trees, same conditions as above 110 in the above statement the expense for guide is based on the supposition that the party includes at least three persons. yosemite valley. the name is indian. pronounce it in four syllables, accenting the second. it means "big grizzly bear." the valley lies very near the centre of the state, reckoning north and south, about one fifth the way across from east to west, and almost exactly in the middle of the high sierras which inclose it. its direction from san francisco is a little south of east, and its distance about one hundred and forty miles in an air line. the valley itself lies nearly east and west. its main axis runs a little north of east by a little south of west. it consists of three parts: 1st. the surrounding wall of solid rock, nearly vertical, and varying in height from one thousand to four and even five thousand feet. 2d. the slope of rocky masses and fragments which have fallen from the face of the cliffs, forming a sort of _talus_ or escarpment along the foot of this wall, from seventy-five to three hundred and fifty feet high, throughout the greater part of its extent. 3d. the nearly level bottom land, lying between these slopes, forming the valley proper, and divided into two unequal parts by the merced river flowing through westerly, from end to end. the main valley is seven miles long; though one may make it longer if he estimates the branches or divisions at the upper or eastern end. its width varies from a few feet on either side of the stream, to a full mile and a quarter in its broadest part. it contains over a thousand acres; two thirds meadow, and the rest a few feet higher, somewhat sandy, gravelly, and, in places, covered with rocks and boulders from the surrounding cliffs. over the latter portion, at irregular intervals, trees, shrubs and ferns are sparsely sprinkled or set in irregular groups. the richer bottom supports several fine clumps and groves of graceful trees. the bottom of the valley is four thousand feet above the level of the sea, and has an average fall, towards the west, of about six feet to the mile. the river varies in width from fifty to seventy feet, and in depth from six to twelve feet. its bottom is gravelly, its current remarkably swift, its waters clear as crystal. trout, of delicious quality, abound, but seldom allow white men to catch them. the rocky wall which shuts it in, averages over three quarters of a mile in perpendicular height. nothing on wheels has ever gone up or down this tremendous precipice, and in only two places have the surest-footed horses or mules been able to find a safe trail. yosemite valley is really a huge sink or cleft in a tangle of rock-mountains; a gigantic trough, not scooped or hollowed out from above, but sunk straight down, as if the bottom had dropped plumb toward the centre, leaving both walls so high that if either should fall, its top would reach clear across the valley and crash against the opposite cliff several hundred feet above its base. in many places these cliffs rise into rock-mountains, or swell into huge mountainous domes, two or three of which have been split squarely in two, or cleft straight down from top to bottom, and the two halves, still standing straight up, have been heaved or thrown a half-mile asunder, whence each looks wistfully across at its old mate, or frowns sternly and gloomily down upon the beautiful valley which quietly keeps them apart. here and there they tower into lofty spires, shoot up in shattered or splintered needles, or solemnly stand in stately groups of massive turrets. high bastions surmount steep precipices, and both look down on awful chasms. back from the edge of the valley, behind these cliffs, the rock country stretches away in every direction through leagues of solid granite, rising irregularly into scattered hills, peaks and mountains, between which run the various snow-fed streams, whose final, sudden plunge over the valley's sharp and rocky brink makes the numerous falls of such wonderful height. coming in by either trail, one enters the western or lower end of the valley. we will suppose ourselves entering by the mariposa trail. we have clambered, or allowed our animals to clamber, safely down the rocky, steep, and crooked trail, which lands us finally at the foot of the precipitous slope of two thousand seven hundred feet. as we follow the trail up the valley, that is, bearing away to the right, going eastward along the foot of the south wall, we encounter the falls, mountains, spires and domes in the following order: one coming in by the coulterville, hardin's or big oak flat trail, finds himself at the same end of the valley, directly opposite the foot of the mariposa trail, having the river between; and as he bears away to the left, along the base of the north wall, he would, of course, meet all these wonders in exactly the reverse order. but to return to the foot of the mariposa or clark's trail: first, the bridal veil fall, indian name po-ho-no, meaning, "the spirit of the evil wind." the fall is over nine hundred feet high, and of indescribable beauty. the stream which forms it has an average width of some sixty-five feet at the edge of the cliff where it breaks over the brink. it is narrower in summer and wider in winter. for six hundred and thirty feet the stream leaps clear of the cliff in one unbroken fall. thence it rushes down the steep slope of broken rocks in a confusion of intermingled cascades nearly three hundred feet more. the varying pressure of the changeful wind causes a veil-like waving, swaying and fluttering, which readily suggests the obviously fitting and most appropriate name. what could a bride be made of, who would wear a veil like this? no sooner asked than answered, she must be "maid o' the mist." this fall presents its greatest beauty in may or june when the volume of water is not too great. the situation of pohono, added to its intrinsic beauty, waving a welcome as the tourist enters and fluttering a farewell as he leaves, make it the universal favorite. ladies especially love to linger at its foot, feasting their eyes with its marvelous and changeful beauty, and delighting their hearts with the delicious suggestiveness of its most appropriate name. the honeymoon can nowhere be more fittingly or happily spent than within sight of pohono. half a mile further the cliff rounds outward and swells upward into an enormous double, rocky bastion, the cathedral rocks. two thousand six hundred and sixty feet above the valley. indian name, po-see-nah choock-kah, meaning a large store or hoard of acorns. from certain points of sight the form of these rocks readily suggests the outline of a dilapidated gothic cathedral. only the superior grandeur of tu-toch-ah-nu-lah and the south dome, prevent this rock from greater fame. outside of yosemite it would quickly attain a world-wide celebrity. just beyond these rocks the cliff bears away to the southeast and sends up two slender, graceful pinnacles of splintered granite, rising five hundred feet above the main wall, which supports them. these are the cathedral spires. their summits are twenty-four hundred feet above the valley. seen from the northeast, a mile distant, these spires appear symmetrical, of equal height, squarely hewn and rising above the edge of the cliff behind, exactly like two towers of a gothic cathedral. one who doubts the appropriateness of their name, has only to view them from this point, whence a single glance will end his skepticism. beyond the spires the wall runs southeasterly a quarter of a mile, then curves through an easterly and northerly sweep into a north and south line. the whole sweep forms a sort of precipitous coast with its rocky headlands, inclosing the valley between like an emerald bay. beyond this bay the rocky wall gradually curves again, and resumes its easterly trend. an eighth of a mile further brings us to the fissure. this is a cleft or split in the rock, running back southeasterly at nearly a right angle with the face of the cliff. it is one thousand feet deep, five feet wide at the top and front, and grows gradually narrower as it extends downward and backward into the mountain. several boulders have fallen into it and lodged at different depths. a third of a mile east of this fissure, and a mile and three quarters from the cathedral rocks, another rocky promontory projects northwesterly, like a huge buttress, a third of a mile into the valley, crowned with a lofty granite obelisk, three hundred feet thick, and standing straight up twelve hundred feet above the giant cliff which supports it. this is the famous sentinel rock, so named from its resemblance to a gigantic watchtower or signal station, for which, the legends say, the indians formerly used it. the indian name was loya. its top is three thousand and forty-three feet above the river at its foot. the sides show plainly-marked perpendicular cleavages in the granite. although so steep in front and at the sides, a strong grasp, a sure foot, a cool nerve and a calm head can safely climb it from the rear, that is, the southwest side. at least they have done so more than once, and planted a flag to wave in triumph from its summit. by the unanimous and unquestioned verdict of all tourists, this rock is one of the grandest and most beautiful even in yosemite itself. its striking prominence has made it a favorite subject with all artists who have visited the valley. three quarters of a mile southeast of the sentinel tower, half a mile back from the brink of the precipice, and partially or totally hidden by it, according as the spectator stands nearer to or farther from the foot of the cliff, the sentinel dome lifts its hemispherical bulk four thousand one hundred and fifty feet. this is one of the most regularly formed of all of the peculiar dome-like peaks about the valley. the indian name was loy-e-ma. a horseman can reach the very summit by a trail up the eastern slope, and enjoy a most extensive view as his reward. from this dome, the profile of the south dome and strongly marked moraines of the too-loo-le-wack cañon appear to better advantage than from any other point. a mile east of sentinel rock the face of the cliff becomes less precipitous, bends sharply around to the south, and thence back towards the southwest, forming an angular and sloping rocky bluff known as glacier rock, called by the indians, oo-woo-yoo-wah, which means, the "great rock of the elk." the story has it that during one of the expeditions of troops into the valley, a party of soldiers, searching for indians, undertook to climb this rock, and while, slowly and with great labor, working their way up its smooth and steep slope, the hunted red men suddenly appeared upon its summit, and began to roll large stones down upon them. these came thundering down with terrific noise and frightful speed. the pale faces turned and fled with headlong haste, but the destructive missiles smote several of them with instant death. from the point of glacier rock one has a fine view of the valley. all the domes, with the yosemite, vernal and nevada falls are plainly visible thence. for nearly a mile southeast of glacier rock the cliff becomes steeper and more precipitous, forming the western wall of a wild, rough cañon, stretching away southeasterly for nearly a mile. over the cliff at the head of this cañon the south fork of the merced plunges six hundred feet in the illilouette fall. this is also called the too-loo-le-wack, or too-lool-we-ack fall. the meaning of either of these indian names is not certainly given. cunningham, one of the oldest and best guides of the valley, calls the cañon and the fall at the head of it, the el-lil-o-wit. the tourist who attempts this cañon must leave all hoofs behind, and, falling back to first principles, depend entirely upon his own understanding. among the enormous masses of rock which obstruct it, several extensive fissures and romantic caverns furnish additional stimulus to the wonder-loving pedestrian. as general coulter says: "rough is no name for it." it is one of the wildest places imaginable. few tourists accomplish it, but those who do are amply repaid. from the foot of the il-lil-ou-ette cañon make your way directly east, clamber along half a mile, or let your horse do it for you, then bear away to the right, slightly south of east, and you find yourself entering the cañon of the main merced itself. now pick your way carefully along, and, as soon as you feel sufficiently sure of your foothold, look about you, and look ahead. did you ever see finer boulder-scenery in your life? stop under the sheltering lee of this huge, church-like boulder, and don the oiled or rubber suit which awaits your hire. you can get on without it, but the spray will quickly wet you into a "dem'd damp, moist and disagreeable body," if you try it. now take a stout stick, a deep breath, hold firmly on to both and plunge sturdily along the ascending trail. the deepest, richest and greenest of moss lines the narrow foot-path on either hand. look quickly; enjoy it while you may, for presently you find breath and sight nearly taken away together by heavy spray-gusts, rushing, wind-driven, down the cañon. catching the intervals between, and catching your breath at the same time, you lift your nearly blinded eyes to the vernal fall, four hundred and fifty feet high, one hundred feet wide, and from three to five feet deep where it breaks over the square-cut edge of the solid granite beneath. the name vernal was given it on account of the greenness of its water as it plunges over the brink, as well as to distinguish it from the very white fall a mile above. the indian name was pi-wy-ack, which is differently translated to mean "a shower of crystals," or "the cataract of diamonds." this fall pours in one solid unbroken sheet of emerald green, flecked and fringed with creamy foam, and filling the whole cañon below with a thick, and fine and ceaseless spray, which keeps its moss, and grass and foliage of a rich, deep green nowhere surpassed in nature. this spray also combines with the sunshine to develop another and a marvelous beauty. at almost any point along the trail for several rods below the fall, the visitor who is climbing in the morning has only to turn square about to find himself glorified by an exquisitely beautiful circular rainbow surrounding his head like a halo. this rainbow forms a complete circle of so small a diameter that the tourist who views it for the first time involuntarily stretches out his hands to grasp it. the path is wet and slippery, and the ladder-stairs which carry one up the right-hand face of the cliff, just at the south edge of the fall, are steep and tiresome. but good oil or rubber suits keep out the wet, a good restful pause now and then keeps in the breath, while careful stepping and firm holding on rob the steepness and slipperiness of all their real danger. scores of ladies go up and come down every season without accident or harmful fatigue. arrived at the top of the singularly square-cut granite cliff, we turn to the left, walk to the very edge of the stream and the brink of the fall, and gaze into the misty chasm in which the foot of the fall disappears. one need not fear to do so, for nature, as if with special forethought for the gratification of future guests, has provided a remarkable parapet of solid granite running along the very edge of the brink for several yards south of the fall, just breast high, and looking as if made on purpose for timid tourists to lean over, and gaze with fearless safety into the seething chasm in whose foaming depths the foot of the cataract shrouds itself in impenetrable mist. this ceaseless mistiness makes it almost impossible to estimate or calculate the exact height of the fall with any satisfactory accuracy. another variable element which enters into all conjectures of its height is the fact that the rock on which it strikes slopes sharply down for upwards of a hundred and sixty feet. hence in late spring or early summer, when the volume and velocity of the river are greatest, the water, shooting further out, falls at the very base of this slope, and gives the fall a height of four hundred and seventy-five or even five hundred feet in may or june. in october, on the other hand, when the stream is at its lowest, the water, falling straight down, strikes upon the top of this slope, a hundred and sixty or seventy-five feet above its base, and thus diminishes the height of the fall by just that amount. in its volume, this fall resembles niagara more than any other in the valley. in width, of course, it falls far below, but its height is more than three times as great. it also resembles niagara in its greatening on the gaze with each successive visit. in its approaches, in its surroundings, and in itself, the vernal fall surpasses expectation and fully satisfies desire. half a mile above the vernal is a small but beautiful gem of a little fall, called the kachoomah, or wild cat fall. the reason of the name is obvious to one standing a hundred feet below, and noting how the impetuous stream, breaking over the sharp edge of a huge transverse boulder, dashes against the sloping side of another; lying angularly across; and is thrown, or seems to spring, diagonally across towards the northern bank, readily, though roughly, suggesting the sudden side-spring of the animal for whom the observing red man named it. another half mile, and the rocky walls close together, shut us in and bar our further progress. the cañon narrows to a point, over whose right hand wall, close to the very angle of meeting, the same river, the main merced, plunges its whole volume in the famous nevada fall, seven hundred feet high, seventy-five feet wide at the brink, and one hundred and thirty below. this fall is, in all respects, one of the grandest in the world. in height, in width, in purity and volume of water during the early summer, in graceful peculiarities and in grandeur of surrounding scenery, it is simply stupendous. other falls, though few, surpass it in the single element of height, but in surrounding grandeur, in the harmony of beauty and magnificence, none equal this. none brings the visitor oftener to its foot, detains him with greater delight, or sends him away with more profound satisfaction. the exact statement of the height of this fall is hindered by causes similar to those at the vernal, viz: the constant and blinding spray around the bottom, and the consequent uncertainty as to the exact spot where the water strikes. the rock beneath this fall is not vertical, but rather steeply inclined, having a slope of about eighty-five degrees through its upper half and not far from seventy-five degrees through its lower. hence in summer, when tourists usually see it, the diminished force of the current causes the water rather to slide down the slope, than to shoot out over and fall clear of it, as in the spring. thus, from june to november the nevada is more properly a chute or slide than a fall. during this season the friction of the rock breaks the stream into a white froth; hence the name, nevada, or snowy fall. when the water is very low, the fittest thing to which one could liken it would be to myriads of white lace or gauze veils hung over the face of the cliff, waving and fluttering in the wind. a party of ladies originated this figure, and it occurred also to mr. bowles in his fine descriptions of yosemite wonders. as one stands in the cañon below gazing at the nevada, the snowy fall, away upon his left, about a third of a mile back from the brink of the northeast wall of the cañon, rises mt. broderick, or the cap of liberty, whose general outline suggests its name. its rounded summit lifts its smooth, weather-polished granite two thousand feet above the fall and nearly five thousand above the main valley. it bears upon its crown a single juniper of enormous diameter. away to the right of the cañon, just peeping above the edge of the cliff, and nearly two miles south-southeast of the nevada fall, rises the steep, conical summit of the south dome, or mt. starr king, reaching an estimated height of one mile above the valley. next to the wonderful half-dome, this is the steepest and smoothest cone in the region. indian name, see-wah-lam, meaning not known. its exact height, like that of its great namesake, has never been satisfactorily settled. clambering back down this cañon, depositing our oiled or rubber suits, and experiencing an immediate sense of relief and lightness, we retrace the trail up which we came, bear away to the right, that is, going nearly northwest, proceed nearly or quite a mile round the base of a lofty buttress, and open the tenaya cañon, stretching away northeast nearly in a continuous line with the main valley itself. about one mile up this cañon towers yosemite's sheerest and loftiest isolated cliff, the half-dome itself. it is a bare crest of naked granite, four thousand seven hundred and forty feet high, cleft straight down in one vast vertical front on the tenaya, or northwest side, while on the back, that is, toward the southeast, it swells off and rounds away with a dome-like sweep that utterly dwarfs the grandeur of a thousand st. peters in one. following still on up the tenaya cañon, nearly two miles beyond the dome, and a thousand feet higher, rises the clouds' rest, a granite ridge, long, bare and steep, having its axis parallel with that of the valley, and falling away along its southeastern slope into the rocky mountain wilderness of the high sierras. this is one of the few points about the valley which the geological survey has not yet measured. they estimated its height one thousand feet above that of the half dome, which would make its summit ten thousand feet, or nearly two miles above the sea level. beyond this, little of note invites the traveler's delay, so we make our way northwesterly straight across this cañon from the base of its southeasterly wall toward that of the opposite cliff. on the way, however, mirror lake arrests and enchants us. surely water reflections were never more perfect. the indian name ke-ko-too-yem, sleeping water, was never more happily bestowed. imagine a perfect water mirror nearly eight acres in extent, and of a temperament so calm and deep and philosophic that it devotes its whole life to the profoundest reflection. a mile of solid cliff above, a mile of seeming solid cliff beneath; for though the mind knows the lower to be only an image, the eye cannot, by simple sight alone, determine which is the solid original and which the shadowy reflection. twin mountains, base to base, here meet the astonished eye; one towers toward heaven in substance vast, one looms below in shadow cast, as grand, as perfect as its peer on high. in early morning, when no breeze ripples the lake, its reflections are, indeed, marvelously life-like. so exactly is every line and point repeated that the photographic view has puzzled hundreds to tell which mountain is in the air and which is in the water. the spectator who takes the photogram in his hand for the first time often hesitates for several minutes before he can determine which side up the picture should be held. the depth of the lake is from eight to twenty feet. one sufficiently vigorous and persevering may push on up the tenaya creek till he finds the tenaya lake, over a mile long, snugly nestled in among the mountains. this lies beyond the usual limit of tourists' excursions, but well repays a visit. nearly a mile northwest of the lake, and about a third of a mile back from the edge of the cliff, the north dome lifts its rounded granite bulk three thousand five hundred and seventy feet above the valley. it looks as if built of huge, concentric, overlapping, hemispherical domes, piled one upon another, and having their overlapping edges irregularly broken away. on the valley side, that is, toward the south and southeast, it is so steep that no human foot has ever climbed it. in the rear, however, that is, toward the north and west, it falls away in a vast ridge or spine, along which one can easily gain the very summit of the dome itself. the indian name was to-coy-ah, meaning the shade of an indian baby basket. passing three quarters of a mile still down, we reach the angle or turn between the tenaya cañon and the valley proper. in this turn, in fact forming the angle, stands the washington column, a rounded, columnar rock tower, partially standing forth from the abutting cliff behind. this reaches the height of two thousand five hundred feet. immediately beyond this, large masses of the huge concentric, overlapping plates, have cracked off, slipped away and fallen, leaving rough bas-relief arches several hundred yards long, and projecting some scores of feet, like rudely-drawn gigantic eyebrows. these are commonly called the royal arches, or the arched rocks, but the indian name, hun-to, "the watching eye," will better satisfy the poetical visitor, unless, indeed, his masonic proclivities quite overpower his poetic appreciation, in which case he will undoubtedly prefer the former title. for the next mile and a half northwest nothing of special wonder for yosemite detains us. the relief is fitting and needful, not only that we may recover in some degree from the continued effect of the marvels already past, but, more especially, that we may rally in preparation for the most stupendous wonder of them all, the great yosemite fall itself. here language ceases and art quite fails. no words nor paintings, not even the photogram itself, can reproduce one tithe of the grandeur here enthroned. a cataract from heaven to earth, plunging from the clouds of the sky to bury itself among the trees of the forest. the loftiest waterfall yet known upon the face of the globe. don't mention figures yet, please. when a man is overwhelmed with the sublime, don't plunge him into statistics. by and by, when we have cooled down to a safe pitch, we may condescend to hear the calm calculator project his inexorable mathematics into the very face of nature's sublimity and triumphantly tell us just _how_ great this surpassing wonder is. but after all his exactest calculations, his absolute measurements and his positive assurances, one _feels_ how small the fraction of real greatness which figures can express or the intellect apprehend. a cataract half a mile high, setting its forehead against the stars and planting its feet at the base of the eternal hills. gracefully swaying from side to side in rhythmical vibration, swelling into grandeur in earlier spring, and shrinking into beauty under the ardency of summer heat; towering far above all other cataracts, it calmly abides, the undisputed monarch of them all. a half mile is no exaggeration, for the official measurement of the state survey makes the height two thousand six hundred and forty-one (2,641) feet--a _full_ half mile, and _one foot more_. the fall is not in one unbroken, perpendicular sheet, but in three successive leaps. in the upper fall, the stream slides over a huge rounded lip or edge of polished granite, and falls one thousand five hundred and eighty-seven feet in one tremendous plunge. here its whole volume thunders upon a broad shelf or recess, whence it rushes in a series of roughly-broken cascades down a broken slope of over seven hundred feet in linear measurement, but whose base is six hundred and twenty-six feet perpendicularly below its top. from the bottom of this broken slope it makes a final plunge of four hundred and twenty-eight feet in one clear fall, and then slides off contentedly into the restful shadows of the welcoming forests below. its width, like that of all snow-fed streams, varies greatly with the season. in march or april, when the tributary snows are melting most rapidly, and myriads of streamlets swell its volume, the stream is from seventy-five to a hundred feet wide, where it suddenly slips over the smoothly-rounded granite at its upper brink. during the same season it scatters or spreads to a width of from three to four hundred feet, when it breaks upon the rocky masses below. in later spring, or earlier summer, it dwindles to less than a third of its greatest bulk; and its most intimate friend, the veteran yosemite pioneer, hutchings, tells us that he has seen it when it hardly seemed more than a silver thread winding down the face of the cliff. under a full moon, the element of weirdness mingles with its graceful grandeur, shrouds it with mystery, and transports one into a soft and dreamy wonder-land, from which he cares not to return. a mile further on our way back toward the western end, brings us under, or in front of, the triple rocky group, or three-peaked stone-mountain, whose name, the three brothers, readily suggests itself to one standing in the proper place below. they are three huge, bluntly conical, rocky peaks, fronting nearly south, slightly inclined toward the valley and descending in height as they approach it. to the rude indian fancy they might well suggest the name _porn-porn-pa-sue_--"mountains playing leap-frog,"--with which they christened them. the highest, which is the northernmost, the one furthest back from the valley, is three thousand eight hundred and thirty feet high. the summit of this rock is readily reached by a trail from the rear, and affords a superb view of the valley and its surroundings. nearly all who have enjoyed it consider it the very best to be had. another mile-and-a-half and the rocky wonders of yosemite fitly culminate and terminate in tu-toch-ah-nu-lah, "the great chief of the valley" more commonly, though very weakly, called "el capitan," an ordinary spanish word, meaning simply, "the captain;" good enough for a ferry-boat or river steamer, but entirely beneath the dignity of this most magnificent rock on the face of the earth. tu-toch-ah-nulah is an immense granite cliff, projecting angularly into the valley, toward the southwest. it has two fronts, one facing nearly west, the other southeasterly, meeting in a sub-acute angle. these two fronts are over a mile long, and three thousand three hundred feet high, smooth, bare and vertical, and bounded above by a sharp edge, standing pressed against the sky, which its atlas-like shoulder seems made to uphold. the state survey, with all its scientific coolness, could not help saying, "_el capitan_ imposes upon us by its stupendous bulk, which seems as if hewed from the mountains on purpose to stand as the type of eternal massiveness. it is doubtful, if anywhere in the world, there is presented so squarely cut, so lofty and so imposing a face of rock." starr king declared, "a more majestic object than this rock, i never expect to see on this planet." horace greeley, who enjoyed the rare experience of entering the valley by night, and in moonlight too, thus pays tribute to the great chief: "that first, full, deliberate gaze, up the opposite height! can i ever forget it? the valley here, is scarcely half a mile wide, while its northern wall of mainly naked, perpendicular granite, is at least four thousand feet high, probably more. but the modicum of moonlight that fell into this awful gorge, gave to that precipice a vagueness of outline, an indefinite vastness, a ghostly and weird spirituality. had the mountain spoken to me in an audible voice, or begun to lean over with the purpose of burying me, i should hardly have been surprised." after tutochahnulah, nothing on earth can seem very grand or overpowering, and with this the wonders of the valley fitly close. we have, by no means, seen all the falls, nor even mentioned all the peaks, but the others are of little note in yosemite, though, elsewhere, tourists might go a thousand miles to see the least of them. this valley is, beyond comparison, the most wonderful and beautiful of all earthly sights. no matter how incredulous one may be before entering, the great chief and his tremendous allies, soon crush him into the most humble and complete subjection. do not expect, however, that your first view will stagger your skepticism. on the contrary, it may even confirm it. upon our first view of tutochahnulah, as we were walking into the valley, one bright july forenoon, we stopped a mile and a half from its foot, collected ourselves for a calm, cool, mathematical judgment and said with all confidence, "that rock isn't over fifteen hundred feet high. it _can't_ be. why, just look at that tree near its base. that tree, certainly, can't be more than a hundred and twenty-five feet high, and certainly, the cliff doesn't rise more than ten times its height above it." but, unfortunately, we had forgotten that never before had we seen the works of nature on as grand a scale. one's judgment has to change its base. he has to reconstruct it; to adopt a new unit. comparison serves him little, for he has no adequate standard by which to measure, or with which to compare the rock-mountains before him. they are like nothing else. they are a law unto themselves, and one must learn the law, the _new_ law, before he can begin to enter the secret of their greatness. look at that tree. elsewhere you would call it lofty. it measures a hundred and fifty feet, and yet, that wall of solid rock behind rises straight up to twenty times its height above it. look again; now, turn away; shut eyes and think. forget all former standards and adopt the new. slowly you begin to "even" yourself to the stupendous scale of the gigantic shapes around. even niagara requires two or three days before one begins to fully realize or truly appreciate its greatness. how much more, then, yosemite, compared with which niagara is but a very little thing! then, on the other hand, one must remember that after he has adjusted himself to the new and grander scale of yosemite, upon coming out into the midst of ordinary hills and mountains, for several days they seem low and flat and small. a single visit to yosemite dwarfs all other natural wonders and spoils one for all places else. he who has seen it listens quietly to the most enthusiastic rhapsodies of the most widely traveled tourists, and simply answers, with a calm, superior smile, "ah, that's all very well, but you should see _yosemite_." the traveler's university--should such an institution ever exist--can never righteously graduate the most widely traveled tourist, until he can truthfully add to his name, "y. s. t."--yosemite tourist. the big trees. the california big trees are a kind of redwood; or, if the strictest and most scientific judgment does not rank them in the same family, it must, at least, allow a very close relationship. nine groves are already certainly known, and, every year or two, as the exploration of the state becomes more exact, or approaches completion, other smaller groves, straggling groups or solitary clumps, are added to the number. of all those thus far discovered the calaveras grove and the mariposa grove are the most celebrated, both from the extent of the groves and the size and height of the trees composing them. the calaveras grove receives its name from that of the county in which it stands. it is near the source of the south fork of the calaveras river, while the upper tributaries of the mokelumne and the stanislaus rivers flow near it: the former on the north, the latter on the southeast. it is about sixteen miles from murphy's camp, and on or near the road crossing the sierras by the silver mountain pass. this grove has received more visitors and attained greater celebrity than any other, for four reasons: 1st. it was the first discovered. 2d. it was nearer the principal routes of travel, hence more easily accessible. 3d. one can visit it on wheels. 4th. last, and best for the tired tourist, an excellent hotel at the very margin of the grove; sperry & perry, proprietors. the grove extends northeast and southwest about five eighths of a mile. its width is only about one fifth as great. it stands in a shallow valley between two gentle slopes. its height above the sea is four thousand seven hundred and fifty-nine feet. in late spring or early winter a small brook winds and bubbles through the grove; but under the glare of summer suns and the gaze of thronging visitors, it modestly "dries up." the grove contains about ninety trees which can be called really "big," besides a considerable number of smaller ones deferentially grouped around the outskirts. several of the larger ones have fallen since the grove was discovered, in the spring of 1852; one has had the bark stripped off to the height of one hundred and sixteen feet, and one has been cut down, or, rather, bored and sawed down. the bark thus removed was exhibited in different cities in this country, and finally deposited in the sydenham crystal palace, england, only to be burned in the fire which destroyed a part of that building some years since. the two trees thus destroyed were among the finest, if not the very finest in the grove. among those now standing, the tallest is the "keystone state;" the largest and finest, the "empire state." the following table gives the height of all the trees measured by the state survey, and their girth six feet from the ground: names of trees. girth. height. keystone state 45 325 general jackson 40 319 mother of the forest (without bark) 61 315 daniel webster 47 307 richard cobden 41 284 starr king 52 283 pride of the forest 48 282 henry clay 47 280 bay state 46 275 jas. king of william 51 274 sentinel 49 272 dr. kane 50 271 arbor vitae queen 30 269 abraham lincoln 44 268 maid of honor 27 266 old vermont 40 265 uncle sam 43 265 mother (and son) 51 261 three graces (highest) 30 262 wm. cullen bryant 48 262 u. s. grant 34 261 gen. scott 43 258 geo. washington 51 256 henry ward beecher 34 252 california 33 250 uncle tom's cabin 50 250 beauty of the forest 39 249 j. b. mcpherson 31 246 florence nightingale 37 246 james wadsworth 27 239 elihu burritt 31 231 the exact measurement of the diameter and the ascertaining of the age of one of the largest trees in this grove, was accomplished by cutting it down. this was done soon after the discovery of the grove. it occupied five men during twenty-two days. they did it by boring into the tree with pump augers. the tree stood so perfectly vertical that, even after they had bored it completely off, it would not fall. it took three days' labor driving huge wedges in upon one side until the monumental monster leaned, toppled and fell. they hewed and smoothed off the stump six feet above the ground, and then made careful measurements as follows: across its longest diameter, north of centre, 10 feet 4 inches. across its longest diameter, south of centre, 13 " 9½ " ------------------ total largest diameter, 24 feet 1½ inc's. the shorter diameter, from east to west, was twenty-three feet, divided exactly even, eleven and one half feet from the centre each way. the thickness of the bark averaged eighteen inches. this would add three feet to the diameter, making the total diameter as the tree originally stood, a little over twenty-seven feet one way, and twenty-six feet the other. that is _eighty-five feet in circumference, six feet from the ground_. the age was ascertained thus: after it had been felled, it was again cut through about thirty feet from the first cut. at the upper end of this section, which was, of course, nearly forty feet above the ground, as the tree originally stood, they carefully counted the rings of annual growth, at the same time exactly measuring the width of each set of one hundred rings, counting from the outside inwards. these were the figures: first hundred rings 3.0 inches. second " " 3.7 " third " " 4.1 " fourth " " 3.9 " fifth " " 4.1 " sixth " " 4.1 " seventh " " 4.6 " eighth " " 5.6 " ninth " " 7.3 " tenth " " 7.9 " eleventh " " 10.1 " twelfth " " 13.0 " fifty-five years 9.4 " ----------------- ----------- 1,255 years. 80.8 inches. a small hole in the middle of the tree prevented the exact determining of the number of rings which had rotted away, or were missing from the centre; but allowing for that, as well as for the time which the tree must have taken to grow to the height at which they made the count, it is probably speaking within bounds, to say that this tree was, in round numbers, thirteen hundred years old! as the table shows, this grove contains four trees over three hundred feet high. the heights of these big trees, in both the great groves, are usually overstated. the above measurements were carefully and scientifically made--in several cases repeated and verified--and may be relied on as correct. the "keystone state" enjoys the proud honor of lifting its head higher than any other tree now known to be standing on the western continent. australia has trees a hundred and fifty feet higher. the stories occasionally told of trees over four hundred feet high having once stood in this grove, have no reasonable foundation and are not entitled to belief. neither is it true, as some have marvelously asserted, that it takes two men and a boy, working half a day each, to look to the top of the highest tree in this grove. the calaveras trees, as a rule, are taller and slimmer than those of mariposa. this has probably resulted from their growing in a spot more sheltered from the high winds which sweep across the sierra, to which other groves have been more exposed. the mariposa grove, likewise named from the county in which it stands, is about sixteen miles directly south of the lower hotel in yosemite valley, and about four miles southeast of clark's ranch. like the calaveras grove, it occupies a shallow valley or depression in the back of a ridge which runs easterly between big creek and the south merced. one branch of the creek rises in the grove. the grant made by congress is two miles square and embraces two distinct groves; that is, two collections of big trees, separated by a considerable space having none. the upper grove contains three hundred and sixty-five trees of the true _sequoia gigantea_ species, having a diameter of one foot or over. besides these, are a great number of younger and smaller ones. the lower grove is not as large, and its trees are more scattered. it lies southwesterly from the upper. some of its trees grow quite high up the gulches on the south side of the ridge which separates the two groves. on wednesday, july 7th, 1869, the largest trees of this grove were carefully measured, under the guidance and with the assistance of mr. clarke himself, one of the state commissioners charged with the care of these groves and of the yosemite valley. to prevent misunderstanding and insure uniformity, each tree was measured three feet from the ground, except where the outside of the base was burned away, when the tree was girted seven and a half feet above ground. the following figures are taken from that day's phonographic journal, written on the spot: the "grizzly giant," seven and one half feet up, measures seventy-eight and one half feet in circumference. three feet above ground this tree measured over a hundred feet round; but several feet of this measurement came from projecting roots, where they swell out from the trunk into the mammoth diagonal braces or shores, necessary to support and stiffen such a gigantic structure in its hold upon the earth. one hundred feet up, an immense branch, over six feet through, grows out horizontally some twenty feet, then turns like an elbow and goes up forty feet. it naturally suggests some huge gladiator, uncovering his biceps and drawing up his arm to "show his muscle." this is the largest tree now standing in the grove, and is the one of which starr king wrote: "i confess that my own feeling, as i first scanned it, and let the eye roam up its tawny pillar, was of intense disappointment. but then, i said to myself, this is, doubtless, one of the striplings of this anak brood--only a small affair of some forty feet in girth. i took out the measuring line, fastened it on the trunk with a knife, and walked around, unwinding as i went. the line was seventy-five feet long. i came to the end before completing the circuit. nine feet more were needed. i had dismounted before a structure _eighty-four feet_ in circumference, and nearly three hundred feet high, and i should not have guessed that it would measure more than fifteen feet through." here, as in yosemite and at niagara, tourists are usually disappointed in the first view. the lifelong familiarity with lesser magnitudes makes it almost impossible for the mind to free itself from the trammels of habit, and leap at a single bound, into any adequate perception of the incredible magnitudes which confront him. one needs spend at least a week among these brobdignagian bulks, come twice a day and stay twelve hours each time, before he grows to any worthy appreciation of their unbelievable bigness. of the other trees, the largest ten, measured three feet above ground, gave the following circumferences: la fayette 83 feet. the governor 75 " chas. crocker 75 " the chief commissioner 74 " governor stanford 74 " washington 72 " pluto's chimney 71 " the big diamond (koh-i-noor) 65 " the governor's wife 62 " the forest queen 58 " others of equal size, possibly greater than some above, were not measured. "the governor" is a generic name, applied in honor of him who may happen to be the actual incumbent at any time. at present, of course, it means gov. haight. it is an actual botanical fact, that the tree has actually _gained_ in _height_ under the present gubernatorial administration. it certainly is not as _low_(e) by several inches as during the reign, or lack of rain, of the preceding incumbent. the same general complimentary intention christened the "governor's wife," which has as graceful a form and as dignified a bearing among trees as such a lady should have among the women of the state. then, too, the tree stands with a gentle inclination toward "the governor," which may not be without its suggestions to those fond of tracing analogies. the "chief commissioner" is the largest of a clump of eight, which stand grouped, as if in consultation, at a respectful distance from the governor. "pluto's chimney" is a huge old stump, burned and blackened all over, inside and out. hibernian visitors sometimes call it "the devil's dhudeen." it is between forty and fifty feet high. on one side of the base is a huge opening, much like a puritan fireplace or a scotch inglenook; while within, the whole tree is burned away so that one can look up and out clear to the very sky through its huge circular chimney. outside, the bark and the roots have been burned wholly away. before the burning, this tree must have equaled the largest. nearly in front of the cabin in the upper grove, and not far from the delicious spring before alluded to, stands a solitary tree having its roots burned away on one side, leaning south, and presenting a general appearance of trying to "swing round the circle." in view of all these facts, some imaginative genius once christened it "andy johnson." the only inappropriate thing in the application of that name was the fact that the tree stood so near a spring of cold water. the "big diamond" or "koh-i-noor" is the largest of a group of four very straight and symmetrical trees occupying the corners of a regular rhombus or lozenge, so exactly drawn as to readily suggest the name "diamond group," by which they have been called. as already remarked, the mariposa grove really consists of two groves--the upper and the lower, which approach within a half mile of each other. the upper grove contains three hundred and sixty-five trees; one for every day in the year, with large ones for sundays. by an unfortunate omission, however, it makes no provision for leap year. this is the principal objection which unmarried spinster tourists have thus far been able to urge against it. the lower grove has two hundred and forty-one trees, generally smaller than those of the upper grove. the total number in both groves, according to the latest official count, is six hundred and six. within ten years several trees have fallen, and others follow them from time to time, so that the most accurate count of them made in any one year might not tally with another equally careful count a year earlier or later. among the prostrate trees lies the "fallen giant," measuring eighty-five feet around, three feet from the present base. the bark, the sapwood, the roots, and probably the original base, are all burned away. when standing, this monster must have been by far the largest in both groves, and, indeed, larger than any now known in the world. it should have been called "lucifer," a name hereby respectfully submitted for the consideration of future tourists. the living trees of this species exude a dark-colored substance, looking like gum, but readily dissolving in water. this has a very acrid, bitter taste, which probably aids in preserving the tree from injurious insects, and preventing the decay of the woody fibre. the fruit or seed is hardly conical, but rather ellipsoidal or rudely oval in form, an inch and a half long by one inch through, and looking far too insignificant to contain the actual germ of the most gigantic structure known to botanical science. their age, indicated by the concentric rings of annual growth, carefully counted and registered by the gentlemen of the state survey, varies from five to thirteen, possibly fifteen, centuries. the word "_sequoia_," is the latin form of the indian _sequoyah_, the name of a cherokee indian of mixed blood, who is supposed to have been born about 1770, and who lived in will's valley, in the extreme northeastern corner of alabama, among the cherokees. his english name was george guess. he became famous by his invention of an alphabet, and written letters for his tribe. this alphabet was constructed with wonderful ingenuity. it consisted of eighty-six characters, each representing a syllable, and it had already come into considerable use before the whites heard anything of it. after a while, the missionaries took up sequoyah's idea, had types cast, supplied a printing press to the cherokee nation, and in 1828 started a newspaper printed partly with these types. driven, with the rest of his tribe, beyond the mississippi, he died in new mexico, in 1843. his alphabet is still in use, though destined to pass away with his doomed race, but not into complete oblivion, for his name, attached to one of the grandest productions of the vegetable kingdom will keep his memory forever green. for the foregoing bit of aboriginal biography, we gratefully acknowledge our obligation to prof. brewer and the gentlemen of the state survey, to whom he originally furnished it. had sequoyah's name been cadmus--had the cherokees been phenicians--and had this modern heathen of the eighteenth century invented his alphabet away back before the christian era, his name would have stood in every school history among those of inventors, philosophers, discoverers and benefactors; as it is he's "only an indian." no one can deny, however, that he was one of the best re(a)d men in the history of the world. both the calaveras and the mariposa groves contain hollow trunks of fallen trees, through which, or into which, two and even three horsemen can ride abreast for sixty or seventy feet. each grove, also, has trees which have been burned out at the base, but have not fallen. still standing, they contain or enclose huge charcoal-lined rooms, into which one can ride. the writer has been one of four mounted men who rode their horses into such a cavity in the mariposa grove, and reined their horses up side by side without crowding each other or pressing the outside one against the wall. one who has seen only the ordinary big trees of "down east," or "out west," forests, finds it hard to believe that any such vegetable monsters can really exist. even the multiplied and repeated assurances of friends who have actually "_seen_ them, sir," and "measured them _myself_, i tell you," hardly arrest the outward expression of incredulity, and seldom win the inward faith of the skeptical hearer. fancy yourself sitting down to an after-dinner chat in the fifteen-foot sitting room, adjoining the dining room of equal size. you fall to talking of the "big trees." you say, "why, my dear sir, i have actually rode into, and sat upon my horse in, a tree whose hollow was so big that you could put both these rooms into it, side by side, and still have seven or eight feet of solid wood standing on each side of me. no, sir, not romancing at _all_. it's an actual, scientific, measured _fact_, sir." your friend looks quizzically and incredulously into both your eyes, as he says, "why, now see here, my dear fellow, do you suppose i'm going to believe that? tell a _moderate_ whopper, and back it up with such repeated assertion and scientific authority, and you might possibly make me believe it, or at least, allow it until you were fairly out of hearing; but to sit here at a man's own fireside and tell him such a _monstrous_ story as that, and expect him to swallow it for truth--ah, no, my dear fellow, that's _too_ much, altogether too much." so you have to give it over and drop the argument for the present, in the hope that some one of the numerous excursion parties, now so rapidly multiplying every year, will soon include him, carry him into the actual presence of these veritable monsters of the vegetable kingdom, confront him with their colossal columns, and compel his belief. and yet the general incredulity is hardly to be wondered at, after all. in nearly every one of us, our faith in what _may_ be, largely depends upon our personal knowledge of the _facts_ which _have_ been. in matters pertaining to the outward, the material, the physical world, our actual experience of the past governs our belief as to the future. and even when the objects of our disbelief are set bodily before our vision, and we have actually seen them and handled them, it is often difficult to believe our own eyes. so far is "seeing from believing" when the sight so far surpasses all former experience. there is another grove of big trees in fresno county, about fourteen miles southeast of clark's. it is not far from a conspicuous point called wammelo rock. the state survey did not include it, neither have tourists usually visited it. according to the description of mr. clark, who has partially explored it, it extends for more than two miles and a half in length, by from one to two in width. he has counted five hundred trees in it, and believes it to contain not far from six hundred in all. the largest which he measured had a circumference of eighty-one feet at three feet from the ground. following along the slope of the sierras, to the southeast about fifty miles, between king's and kaweah rivers, we find the largest grove of these trees yet discovered in the state. the state survey partially explored this locality, and have given us the following particulars: the trees form a belt rather than a grove. this belt is found about thirty miles north-northeast of visalia, near the tributaries of the king's and kaweah rivers, and along the divide between. they are scattered up and down the slopes and along the valleys, but reach their greatest size in the shallow basins where the soil is more moist. along the trail from visalia to big meadows the belt is four or five miles wide and extends through a vertical range of twenty-five hundred feet; that is, the trees along the lower edge of the belt stand nearly half a mile in perpendicular height below those along its upper boundary. the length of this belt is as much as eight or ten miles and may be more. these trees are not collected in groves, but straggle along through the forests in company with the other species usually found at this height in the sierras. they are most abundant between six and seven thousand feet above the sea. their number is very great; probably thousands might be counted. in size, however, they are not remarkable; that is, in comparison with those of calaveras and mariposa. but few exceed twenty feet in diameter--the average is from ten to twelve feet, while the great majority are smaller. one tree which had been felled, had a diameter of eight feet, not including the bark, and was three hundred and seventy-seven years old. the largest one seen was near thomas' mill. this had a circumference of one hundred and six feet near the ground, though quite a portion of the base had been burned away. another tree, which had fallen and been burned hollow, was so large that three horsemen could ride abreast into the cavity for thirty feet, its inside height and width being nearly twelve feet. seventy feet in, the diameter of the cavity was still as much as eight feet. the base of this tree could not be easily measured; but the trunk was burned off at one hundred and twenty feet from the base, and at that point had a diameter, not including the bark, of thirteen feet and two inches. at one hundred and sixty-nine feet from its base, this tree was still nine feet through. the indians speak of a still larger tree to the north of king's river. it was not in the power of the state survey to look it up and measure it at that time. all through these forests young big trees of all sizes, from the seedling upwards, were very numerous. at thomas' mill they cut them up into lumber, as if they were the most common tree in the forest. fallen trunks of old trees are also numerous. many of these must have lain for ages, as they had almost wholly rotted away, though the wood is very durable. judging from the number of these trees found between king's and kaweah rivers, it would seem that the big trees best like that locality and its vicinity, so that it is not improbable that a further exploration would show a continuous belt of some fifty or sixty miles in extent. from the researches thus far made, it appears that the big tree is not as strange and exceptional as most suppose. it occurs in such abundance, of all ages and sizes, that there is no reason to conclude that it is dying out, or that it belongs exclusively to some past geological or botanical epoch. the age of the big trees is not as great as that assigned by some of the highest authorities to some of the english yews. and in height they hardly begin to equal that of the australian _eucalyptus amygdalina_, many of which, on the authority of dr. muller, the eminent government botanist, have exceeded four hundred feet. one, indeed, reached the enormous height of _four hundred and eighty feet_, thus overtopping the tallest _sequoia_ by one hundred and fifty-five feet. and in diameter, also, there are trees which exceed the big tree, as, for example, the _baobab_; but these are always comparatively low, rarely reaching the height of more than sixty or seventy feet, while their excessive diameter comes from a peculiarly swollen and distorted base. on the whole, we may safely claim that no known tree in the world equals the california big trees in the combined elements of size and height, and in consequent grandeur, unless, indeed, it may be the _eucalyptus_. the largest australian tree yet reported, is said to be eighty-one feet in circumference, four feet from the ground. this is a highly respectable vegetable, but not quite equal to the certified measurements of some of the largest of the california big trees. so the american tourist through the wonders of california, may yet claim that his country still possesses the loftiest waterfalls, the most overpowering cliffs, and the grandest trees yet known upon the face of the globe. bower cave. the traveler who desires good roads, romantic scenery, comfortable conveyances, and excellent hotel accommodations, will be sure to go in or come out by way of coulterville. this town lies on maxwell creek, a branch of the merced, about eighteen hundred feet above the sea, and not far from the border-land between the "foot-hills" and the mountains proper. the road runs from coulterville nearly northeast, about eight miles, when it strikes the north fork of the merced. along the side of this stream it descends for a short distance, then crosses and passes near the bower cave. this is a picturesque and unique locality, and is well worth a visit. the cave is an immense crack or sink, or both combined, in the solid limestone of the mountaintop. at the surface it presents a somewhat crescent-shaped opening, one hundred and thirty-three feet long, eighty-six feet wide near the centre, and one hundred and nine feet deep in the deepest place. trees grow from the bottom and lift their branches out through the opening at the top, while a beautifully tranquil and wonderfully clear lake occupies the greater portion of the floor. we enter at the north end and go down by a rough but strong and safe staircase. the walls of the cleft are perpendicular, or nearly so, throughout the greater portion of their extent, but near the south end the upper part of the wall projects or overhangs several feet. the bottom has the form of an irregular square, measuring over a hundred feet one way and somewhat less than a hundred the other. from the bottom and near the centre grow three large maples, the largest of which is more than two feet through, and about a hundred and twenty-five feet high. around these trees are benches, capable of seating a score or two of persons. on one side of the wall, some twenty feet above the bottom, is a singular niche or alcove which has been christened the "pulpit." it is occasionally used for the legitimate purpose of similar constructions, though more frequently occupied by the fiddler of some festive party. upon special occasions, such as a fourth of july celebration, they erect tables here and use all the available floor as a dining hall. over a hundred have thus dined here at one time. in one corner, and nearly under the pulpit, is a small but singularly beautiful lake, rendered somewhat ghostly and mysterious by the overhanging rocky wall, and the intercepted light falling through the overshadowing trees. upon this lake is a small boat, in which the imaginative visitor may easily fancy himself crossing the styx, with himself as his own charon. not far from the corner of this lake, nearly under the pulpit, the water is claimed to have an immense depth. in all parts it is so clear that one can plainly see the cracks and crevices in the sloping limestone sides at the depth of forty feet. the vision would, doubtless, penetrate much deeper did not the overhanging walls obstruct the light. having rowed across the lake, as you are returning to the shore, the guide may possibly ask you to keep very quiet while he calls and feeds his fish. he gives a few soft whistles, places his hand in the water, waits a moment, repeats his whistle, and softly whispers, "here they come." up swim several large trout, rub their noses against his hand, and circle slowly around it, evidently waiting for the customary food. and that hand seldom disappoints them. it is a pleasant and restful sight. after enjoying it, seeing them finish feeding, and returning to the landing, you ask the guide how they became so tame. he tells you, that for several weeks after putting them into the lake, which he did some years ago, he came every day, about the same time, softly whistling and gently dropping crumbs and worms into the water. after a few days he began to hold on to one end of a worm while the trout would swim up, take hold of the other end and tug away until he pulled it apart, or the hand let go. after a few months they seemed to have learned to associate the whistling and the feeding, so that whenever they hear the first they swim up in evident expectation of the second. at various heights upon one wall several large cavities or small caves are worn into the rock, some of which admit the tourist for a considerable distance. these make that side of the wall a collection of cells, some of which are high enough to permit the visitor to walk erect; others so low that they compel one who would enter to crawl upon his hands and knees. when first discovered, the walls of these chambers were covered with beautiful stalactites of various sizes and fanciful forms, but the ruthless hands of vandal visitors have gradually broken them off and carried them away, until hardly a trace of their original beauty and variety remains. during the heat of the summer, the time when nearly all visitors enter this cave, its cool and refreshing temperature makes it a comfortable and welcome retreat, especially during the hotter midday hours. the place seems as if nature and art had combined to make it as attractive as possible for hot weather picnics, or midsummer lunch parties. it is difficult to imagine, and almost impossible to discover a more fascinating combination of dell and grotto, grove and lake, cave and bower, than nature has kindly provided for the tourist in the romantic bower cave. alabaster cave. the following account of one of the most beautiful of all nature's marvels, is taken, with few alterations, from yosemite hutchings' book, entitled "scenes of wonder and curiosity in california." the alabaster cave is in el dorado county, twelve and a half miles from folsom by the "whisky bar" road, and ten miles by the el dorado valley turnpike. its more exact location is upon kidd's ravine, about three quarters of a mile from its opening upon the north fork of the american river. from sacramento it is thirty-three miles; by rail to folsom: from auburn, about three miles, by stage. it was discovered in april, 1860, in the following way: a ledge of limestone, resembling marble in appearance, cropped out by the side of el dorado valley turnpike road. upon testing it was found to be capable of producing excellent lime. on the 18th of april, 1860, two workmen, george s. hatterman and john harris, were quarrying limestone from this ledge, when, upon the removal of a large piece of rock, they discovered a dark opening sufficiently enlarged to permit their entrance. availing themselves of the light pouring in through the opening, they went in as far as they could see--some fifty feet. before venturing further into the darkness, they threw a stone forward, which, striking in water, determined them to return for lights. at this juncture mr. gwinn, the owner of the ledge, came up, and, upon learning of their discovery, immediately sent for candles to enable them to further prosecute their explorations. the result of these, after several hours spent in them, can hardly be better described than in mr. gwinn's own language, taken from a letter, dated april 19, 1860, addressed to mr. holmes, a gentleman friend of his residing in sacramento, and first published in the _bee_, of that city: "wonders will never cease. on yesterday, we, in quarrying rock, made an opening to the most beautiful cave you ever beheld. on our first entrance we descended about fifteen feet, gradually, to the centre of the room, which is one hundred by thirty feet. at the north end there is a most magnificent pulpit, in the episcopal church style, that man has ever seen. it seems that it is, and should be, called the "holy of holies." it is completed with the most beautiful drapery of alabaster sterites of all colors, varying from white to pink-red, overhanging the beholder. immediately under the pulpit there is a beautiful lake of water, extending to an unknown distance. we thought this all, but, to our great admiration, on arriving at the centre of the first room, we saw an entrance to an inner chamber, still more splendid; two hundred by one hundred feet, with the most beautiful alabaster overhanging in every possible shape of drapery. here stands magnitude, giving the instant impression of a power above man; grandeur that defies decay; antiquity that tells of ages _unnumbered_; beauty that the touch of time makes more beautiful; use exhaustless for the service of men; strength imperishable as the globe, the monument of eternity--the truest earthly emblem of that everlasting and unchangeable, irresistible majesty, by whom, and for whom, all things were made." as soon as the news spread, hundreds of people flocked to see the newly discovered wonder, from all the surrounding mining settlements, so that within the first six days, it was visited by upwards of four hundred persons, many of whom, we regret to say, possessed a larger organ of acquisitiveness than of veneration, and laid vandal hands on some of the most beautiful portions within reach, near the entrance. upon this, the proprietor closed it until arrangements could be made for its protection and systematic illumination; the better to see and not to touch the specimens. at this time messrs. smith & hatterman leased the cave and immediately began to prepare it for the reception of the public by building barricades, platforms, etc., and placing a large number of lamps at favorable points, for the better illumination and inspection of the different chambers. at the time of its discovery, in the spring, considerable water was standing in some of the deepest of the cavities, but it presently began to recede at the rate of nearly six inches a day, and continued to do so, until, in a few weeks, it had entirely disappeared, leaving the cave perfectly dry. this afforded opportunity for further exploration, upon which it was found that a more convenient entrance could be made, with but little labor, from an unimportant room within a few feet of the road. this was accordingly done, and the new opening, in addition to its increased convenience, allows the free circulation of pure air. having thus given a historical sketch of its discovery, with other matters connected with its preservation and management, we shall now endeavor to take the reader with us, at least in imagination, while attempting a detailed description of its interior. upon approaching the cave from the roadside, we descend three or four steps to a board floor. here is a door which is always carefully locked when no visitors are within. passing on we enter a chamber about twenty-five feet long by seventeen feet wide and from five to twelve and a half feet in height. though very plain and comparatively unattractive at both roof and sides, it is yet quite curious, especially to visitors unaccustomed to caves. here is also a desk, upon which lies a book inscribed, "coral cave register." this book was presented by some gentlemen of san francisco, who thought that the name "coral cave" would be more appropriate. the impression produced upon our mind upon the first walk through it, was that "alabaster cave" would be equally as good a name, but, upon examining it more thoroughly, we afterwards thought, that as a great proportion of the ornaments at the roots of the stalactites look like beautifully frozen mosses, or very fine coral, and the long icicle-looking pendants being more like alabaster, the name, coral cave, was to be preferred. but as mr. gwinn had given the name "alabaster" to the works themselves, on account of the purity and whiteness of the limestone there found, even before the discovery of the cave, we cheerfully acquiesce in the name originally given. the register was opened april twenty-fourth, 1860, and upon our visit, september thirtieth of the same year, two thousand seven hundred and twenty-one names had been registered. some three or four thousand persons had visited it before the register was provided, many declined entering their names after it was furnished, and many others visited it after the date of our visit, so that it is probable that the number of persons who entered this cave during the year of its discovery must have been nearly or quite three thousand five hundred. advancing beyond the vestibule, or register room, along another passage or room, our eyes rest on several notices, such as, "please do not touch the specimens," "no smoking allowed," "hands and feet off," with _feet_ scratched out, amputation of those members not intended! the low, shelving, rocky wall upon the left and near the end of the passage are covered with coral-like excrescences, resembling bunches of coarse rock-moss. this brings us to the entrance of the dungeon of enchantment. before us is a broad, oddly-shaped and low-roofed chamber, about one hundred and twenty feet long, by seventy in width, and from four to twenty feet high. bright coral-like stalactites hang down in irregular rows and in almost every variety of shape and shade, from milk-white to cream color; forming a most agreeable contrast with the dark arches and the frowning buttresses on either hand, while low-browed ridges, some almost black, others of a reddish-brown, stretch from either side, the space between which is ornamented with a peculiar kind of coloring which nearly resembles a grotesque species of graining. descending toward the left, we approach one of the most singularly beautiful groups of stalactites in this apartment. some of these are fine pendants, hardly larger than pipestems, from two to five feet long, and hollow from end to end. when the cave was first discovered there were four or five of these pendants over eight feet long, but the early admitted vandals ruthlessly destroyed, or selfishly carried them off. others resemble the ears of white elephants, or, rather, the white elephant of siam, while others still present the appearance of long and slender cones, inverted. examining this and other groups more closely, we discover at their bases coral-like excrescences of great beauty; here, like petrified moss, brilliant, and almost transparent; there, a pretty fungus, tipped and spangled with diamonds; yonder, miniature pine trees, which, with a most obliging disposition to accommodate themselves to circumstances, grow bottom up. in other places appear fleeces of the finest merino or silky floss. leaving these, and turning to the right, we can ascend a ladder into the loftiest part of this chamber. here new combinations of beauty surprise and delight us. thence passing on, we come to a large stalagmite, whose form and size suggest a tying post for horses. this has been dignified, or mystified, anything but beautified, by different names, more or less appropriate. one is "lot's wife." if the woman was no higher than the stalagmite she must have been a dwarf, for the top of the post is but four feet and a quarter above its bottom, while its diameter at the bottom is hardly one foot. its two other names, "hercules' club," and "brobdignag's forefinger," are more appropriate, though the latter would suggest an "exaggeration," as mrs. partington would have it. continuing on, we pass over a gently rising floor resembling solidified snow, until we approach the verge of, and look down into, an immense abyss, surmounted by a cavernous roof. icicle and coral formations depend from the roof, and a rude drapery of jet covers the sides. here is suspended a singular petrifaction resembling a human heart, which looks as if it might have belonged to one of the primitive titans, or come from the chest of that miltonian monster, whose spear-shaft was like a norway pine. on one side of this is an elevated and nearly level natural floor, upon which a table and seats have been temporarily erected for the convenience of choristers, choirs or singing societies, and even for the accommodation of public worship, should any desire to witness or participate in it in this most beautiful of god's natural temples. the lover of sacred music would be delighted beyond measure to hear these "vaulted hills" resound the symphonies of mozart, haydn or mendelssohn. scores of these pendent harps would vibrate in unison, or echo them in delicious harmonies from chamber to chamber, or bear them from roof to wall in diminishing reverberations even to the most remote of these rock-formed corridors. we may not linger here too long, so passing hence, we enter other and smaller chambers, along whose roofs we trace formations that resemble streams of water suddenly arrested in their flow and turned to ice. in another, a peculiarly shaped petrifaction presents a perfectly formed beet from one point of view, while from another it resembles a small elephant's head. not far hence, a bell-shaped hollow, a beautiful combination of grotto and arcade, has received the name of "julia's bower." once more advancing, a narrow, low-roofed passage brings us into the most beautiful chamber of all, the crystal chapel. no language can suitably convey, nor any comparisons worthily suggest, the combined beauty and magnificence of this wonderful spot. "from the beginning," says hutchings, "we have felt that we were almost presumptuous in attempting to portray these wonderful scenes, but, in hope of inducing others to see, with their natural eyes, the sights that we have seen, and enjoy the pleasure that we have enjoyed, we entered upon the task, even though inadequately, of giving an outline--nothing more. here, however, we confess ourselves entirely at a loss. "the sublime grandeur of this imposing sight fills the soul with astonishment that swells up from within as though its purpose was to make the beholder speechless, the language of silence being the most fitting and impressive when puny man treads the great halls of nature, the more surely to lead him, humbly, from these to the untold glory of the infinite one who devised the laws, and superintended the processes that brought such wonders into being. "after the mind seems prepared to examine this gorgeous spectacle somewhat in detail, we look upon the ceiling, if we may so speak, which is entirely covered with myriads of the most beautiful of stone icicles, long, large and brilliant; between these are squares or panels, the mullions and bars of which seem to be formed of diamonds; while the panels themselves resemble the frosting upon windows in the very depth of winter; and even those are of many colors, that most prevailing being of a light pinkish-cream. moss, coral, floss, wool, trees, and many other forms, adorn the interstices between the larger of the stalactites. at the further end is one vast mass of rock, resembling congealed water, apparently formed into many folds and hillocks; in many instances connected by pillars with the roof above. deep down and underneath this is the entrance by which we reached the chamber. "at our right stands a large staglamite, dome-shaped at the top, and covered with beautifully undulating and wavy folds. every imaginable gracefulness possible to the most curiously arranged drapery, is here visible, 'carved in alabaster' by the great architect of the universe. this is named 'the pulpit.' "in order to examine this object with more minuteness, a temporary platform has been erected, which, although detractive of the general effect, in our opinion, affords a nearer and better view of all these remarkable objects in detail. "this spectacle, as well as the others, being brilliantly illuminated, the scene is very imposing, and reminds one of those highly-wrought pictures of the imagination, painted in such charming language and with such good effect in such works as the 'arabian nights.' "other apartments known as the 'picture gallery,' etc., might well detain us longer, but, as in many of their most important particulars, they bear a striking resemblance to those already described, we leave them for the tourist to examine for himself." if what we have said excites the desire of any tourist to visit this new combination of wonder and beauty, we are quite sure he will agree with us that the words of man utterly fail to adequately picture forth the works of god, and will ever after delight his soul with the life-long memory of his charming visit to the wonderful alabaster cave. tourist's complete guide to san francisco, suburbs and vicinity; with special trips and short excursions in and about the city. i. city proper. sketch of the city--historical, topographical, general plan 95-107 approaches to the city--from the east, by boat; from the south, by rail; from the ocean, by steamship, 107-113 conveyances--hacks, coaches, cars, porters, legal rates, caution, baggage and package express, 113-116 hotels--grand, occidental, cosmopolitan, lick house, brooklyn, russ house, american exchange, morton house, international, hotel gailhard, what cheer, (males only), 116-121 lodging houses--nucleus, clarendon, 121 restaurants--saulman's, swain's, job's, martin's, lermitte's, 121-122 baths--fresh, salt, turkish, russian, roman, steam and vapor, 122 places of amusement--california, metropolitan, alhambra, maguire's, and chinese theatres; museums, melodeons, dance halls, and beer cellars, 122-125 halls--platt's, union, pacific, mercantile library, mechanic's institute, y. m. c. a., mozart, dashaway, 125-126 billiards, bowling saloons and shooting galleries, 127-128 gymnasiums--olympic club, y. m. c. a., german turn verein, skating rinks, base ball ground, 128-130 gardens--woodward's, city, 130-140 menageries--woodward's zoological grounds, north beach, 140 squares and parks--plaza, (portsmouth square), washington square, south park, 141 promenades--montgomery street, kearny street, california street. best time, 141-144 drives--cliff house road, ocean house road, bay view, new ocean road, best time, 145-148 libraries and reading rooms--mercantile, mechanic's institute, odd fellow's, pioneers, y. m. c. a., what cheer, woodward's gardens, 148 public buildings--_federal_: post office, custom house, old mint, new mint, marine hospital. _city and county_: old city hall, new city hall, jail, almshouse, industrial school, engine houses, engines. _corporation and society buildings_: pioneer's, merchant's exchange, bank of california, mercantile library building, mechanic's institute, masonic temple, odd fellow's hall, y. m. c. a. building, mechanics' pavilion, 148-157 business buildings and blocks--alta california building, bancroft's, donohoe, kelly & co., harpending's block, murphy, grant & co., tobin, dixon & davisson, treadwell's, tucker's, wells, fargo & c.'s building, white house, 157-159 manufactories--kimball car and carriage factory, pacific rolling mills, mission woolen mills, foundries and iron works, locomotives, boilers, mining machinery, shot tower and lead works, sugar refinery, glass works, ship yards, 159-161 churches--baptist, congregational, episcopal, jewish, methodist, presbyterian, roman catholic, swedenborgian, unitarian, chinese mission house, mariner's church, old mission church, 161-167 hospitals and asylums--city and county, french, german, protestant orphan, roman catholic orphan, 167-169 colleges--california business university, city college, st. ignatius', st. mary's, toland medical, 169-170 school buildings--denman, girl's high, lincoln, valencia street, 171-172 printing, lithographing, binding, and blank book manufacturing establishment, 172-173 private residences--davis', eldridges, laidley's, latham's, bancroft's, otis', parrott's, tallant's, taylor's, tobin's, 174 points of observation--telegraph hill, russian hill, clay street hill, california street hill, rincon hill, lone mountain, twin peaks, bernal heights, u. s. observatory. views from each, 174-184 how to get about--horse car lines, routes, distances, times, fares, buggies, carriages, coaches and saddle horses; qualities of, and charges for. hacks, with rates of hire, 184-188 ii. suburbs and vicinity. commencing at the foot of market street, thence southward along or near the water front, continuing around the entire city and returning to the point of starting. also, mentioning more distant points, visible to the spectator looking beyond the suburbs. lumber yards; wharves and merchant fleet; california and oregon s. s. co.'s wharves and ships; black diamond coal co.'s pier; rincon point; u. s. marine hospital; p. m. s. s. co.'s piers, docks, sheds and ships; gas works; c. p. r. r. co,'s freight pier, depot and boat; mission bay; mission rock; u. s. ship anchorage; steamboat reserves; long bridge; yacht club and boat-house, with yachts; potrero; glass works; pacific rolling mill; deep cut; islais creek and bridge; rope walk; italian fishing fleet and flakes; celestial ditto; south san francisco; catholic orphan asylum; hunter's point; dry dock; bay view race course; visitacion point and valley; san bruno road; new butchertown; ocean house road; lake honda; almshouse; small pox hospital; ocean house race track; lake merced; ocean house; pacific beach; seal rocks; cliff house; farallones; point lobos; signal station; helmet rock; fort point; fort; light-house; golden gate; lime point; point bonita; mountain lake; lobos creek; presidio; barracks; parade ground; black point; pacific woolen mills; north beach; angel island; alcatraz; north point; sea wall; ferries, 188-196 iii. how to see the city. under this head we suggest: morning, or half-day excursions, in and about the city and its suburbs. i. in and about the city. 1. montgomery street, telegraph hill, north beach, washington square, the plaza, city hall, kearny street, 197 2. chinese quarter, 197 3. third street, south park, long bridge, potrero, south san francisco, dry dock, 201 4. water front, (south), stewart street, p. m. s. s. co.'s docks and mammoth steamships, foundries, factories, shot tower, 202 5. water front, (north), sea wall, north point, warehouses and clippers, iron ships, bay and river steamboats and docks, 202 6. southwestern suburbs, mission street, woodward's gardens, old mission church, jewish cemeteries, woolen mills, howard street, 202 7. western suburbs and beyond bush street, laurel hill, lone mountain cemeteries, cliff house road, race track, cliff house, seal rocks, pacific beach, ocean house, road track, lake honda, new ocean road, 203 8. northwestern suburbs and beyond: russian hill, spring valley, fort point, fortress, lighthouse, golden gate, presidio, black point, 203 san francisco. historical. the site of what is now the city of san francisco was first permanently occupied by white men, september 17, 1776. the same year witnessed the entrenchment of a garrison and the establishment of a mission. san francisco owes its origin to catholic missionaries and spanish soldiers. father junipero serra led the missionaries--and virtually commanded the soldiers. the name san francisco was given in honor of saint francis of asisis, a city of italy, the founder of the order of franciscans to which father junipero belonged. the presidio, garrison or fort, was founded first, sept. 17, and the mission about three weeks later, oct. 9th. the site first chosen was near a small lagoon back of, that is, west of, what is now called russian hill, but the prevailing winds proved so high and bitter as to compel its early removal to the more sheltered spot, over a mile south, under the lee of high hills, and near the present mission creek. here, at the head of what is now center or sixteenth street, the old church still stands. for nearly sixty years the mission stood, the nucleus of a little village of rude adobe houses, tenanted by a fluctuating population of indians, mexicans and spanish--and the center of a military and religious authority, which upon more than one occasion made itself felt and feared for leagues around. the population rarely rose above four hundred and frequently fell to less than a hundred and fifty. in 1835, capt. w. a. richardson put up the first pioneer dwelling, with rude wooden walls and sail-cloth roof. on the fourth of july of the next year, 1836, jacob p. leese finished the first frame house. this house stood where the st. francis hotel now stands,--on the southwest corner of clay and dupont streets, a single block west of the present city hall. leese had his store on the beach, which was where montgomery and commercial streets now intersect. nearly seven solid blocks of made-land now stretch between where that old beach lay and the present water front. other houses soon rose near that of leese, and presently the villagers saw their little settlement fast approaching the dignity of a new town, and cast about to find a name. nature caused it to spring out of the ground for them in the form of a species of aromatic mint, which, surrounding their dwellings, perfuming the morning air and supplying frequent and varied medicinal needs, had proved indeed, as the spaniards called it, "yerba buena," the good herb. so the herb named the town, and the name "_stuck_" as the californians say, for nearly a dozen years. during these years the houses grew in number, until 1847, when the town contained seventy-nine buildings,--thirty-one frame, twenty-six adobe, and the rest shanties--and these houses sheltered three hundred souls, or, at least, that number of bodies. on the 30th of january of that year, these three hundred dropped the old name yerba buena, and adopted the older one, which had belonged to the neighboring mission for nearly fourscore years. thus the town also became san francisco, and has ever since so remained. the first steamboat appeared in the bay, november 15th of the same year. in march, 1848, the houses had grown to two hundred, and the population to eight hundred and fifty. on the third of the next month, the first public school began. new year's day, '49, the new city claimed a population of two thousand. three days later the two previously published weekly papers merged into the alta california, the earliest established of all newspapers now existing in the state. the early miners were making from twenty to thirty dollars a day, getting "bags" of dust and "piles" of nuggets, and rushing down to "frisco" to gamble it away. these were the "flush times" of the new city. fresh eggs cost from seventy-five cents to one dollar apiece. for a beefsteak and a cup of coffee for breakfast one had to pay a dollar and a half, and a dinner cost him from two to ten or even twenty dollars, according to appetite and drinketite. rough labor brought the old congressional pay of eight dollars a day; draymen earned twenty dollars a day; and family "help" could hardly be had for forty, or even fifty, dollars a week. the great mass of the men lived in tents. very few women had come, but those few were overwhelmed with attention; if one wished to cross the street in the rainy season, a score of brawny arms would fight for the privilege of gallantly wading through the sea of mud to carry her across the unpaved street. great fires came, four of them; the first the day before christmas, '49--it burned over a million dollars worth; the second, may 4th, '50--it destroyed three millions dollars worth. a little over a month later, june 14th, 1850, the most destructive fire the city ever saw left it poorer by four millions of dollars; and on the 17th of the next september the fourth fire consumed another half million. nearly nine million dollars worth burned in less than nine months! business thrived immensely. in 1852, more than seven vessels a day arrived at or departed from san francisco. commerce overdid itself. long piers ran out over the flats where now solid blocks of lofty buildings have stood for half a score of years. sometimes storms kept back the clippers; then prices went still higher. between march and november, flour went up from eight to forty dollars a barrel, while the "alta" came down from its usual broad and sightly page to the size of a pane of window-glass, fourteen by ten. villainy flourished; drinking, gambling, robbery and murder held high carnival; the law did little, and did that little shabbily and tardily; so the people woke and resumed their original legislative, judicial, and especially their executive, functions. in '51 and '52, and again in '56, they came nobly to the front, hung the worst villains who defied the common law, frightened away the others, restored order, established security for honest men, and resolved themselves again into law-abiding citizens. and thus, through perils of fire, social convulsions, and financial fluctuation, the cosmopolitan city has swept swiftly on until to-day, though having barely attained her majority, she stands in the first half-score of american cities. every year she leaves a city or two behind in her steady progress toward the throne of the continent which she will surely occupy before the present century has fully fled. situation and extent. in extent, population, commerce, wealth and the growth, san francisco of to-day is not only the chief city of california, but the great commercial metropolis of the whole pacific slope. it is both a city and a county; the county occupies the extreme end of a hilly peninsula stretching north to the golden gate, between the pacific ocean on the west, and san francisco bay on the east. the whole peninsula has a length of from thirty-five to forty miles, with an average width of from twelve to fifteen miles. the average width of the county from bay to ocean is four and one half miles, and its extreme length, from the golden gate on the north, to the san mateo county line on the south, is six miles and a half. its boundary line being the natural one of a coast or shore on the west, north and east, is more or less irregular; on the south it is straight. its entire area is 26,681 acres, including the presidio reservation of 1,500 acres, which belongs to the general government. the county also includes the farallon islands, lying nearly thirty miles west in the pacific ocean, with the islands of alcatraz and yerba buena, or goat island, in san francisco bay. the city proper occupies the northeast corner of the county. its limits extend about two miles and a half from east to west, by three and a half from north to south, thus including between one fifth and one sixth the area of the county. the natural surface was very uneven and the soil equally varied--sand beach, salt marsh, mud flats, low plains, narrow ravines, small and shallow valleys, elevated benches or plateaux, sandy knolls and dunes, and stretches of the close, adobe soil, made up its original surface; while rocky bluffs fortified its shore line, and extensive ledges underlaid its hills or cropped out from their sides, or crowned their tops. these hills varied in height from two hundred and sixty to four hundred and ten feet, while west and south of the city limits they rose still higher. one or two small lagoons lay sluggishly about, and as many small streams found their way thence to the bay. the original founders of the city, as is usual in similar cases, seemed never to suspect that they were moulding the beginnings of a grand metropolis. hence they laid out what little they did project with the least possible regard to present symmetry, or the probable demands of future growth. the natural inequalities of surface, the grade and width of streets which must become necessary to a large city, reservations for public buildings, promenades, gardens, parks, etc., with the sanitary necessity of thorough drainage, were matters of which they seem to have been serenely unconscious, or, worse still, sublimely indifferent. and many of their immediate successors in authority were legitimate descendants, or humbly imitative followers. we have not an important street in the city which conforms its course to the cardinal points of the compass, and but one main avenue, market street, which begins to be wide enough. as cronise truthfully says: "the whole town stands _askew_." we now proceed to "orient" the tourist, as horace mann used to say, in regard to such streets, avenues, thoroughfares, cuts, parks, etc., as mainly constitute the highly artificial, though not particularly ornamental, topography of our little occidental village. general plan. market street is the widest and the longest, starting at the water front, half a mile east of the old city hall, and slightly ascending through eight or nine blocks, it runs thence southwesterly on a nearly level grade beyond the city limits. its western end is yet unfinished. a mile and a half from the water it cuts through a moderately high and immoderately rocky hill, beyond which it stretches away toward the unfenced freedom of the higher hills, and the dead level of the western beach beyond, at which it will probably condescend ultimately to stop. its surface presents every variety of natural conformation ingeniously varied with artificial distortion. plank, rubble, mcadam, cobble, nicolson, gravel, stow foundation, gravel, adobe, sand, and finally undisguised dirt, offer their pleasing variety to the exploring eye. from two to four horse-railroad tracks diversify its surface with their restful regularity, while the steam cars from san josé follow their locomotive a short distance up its western end. stately blocks, grand hotels, massive stores, lofty factories, tumble-down shanties, unoccupied lots and vacant sand-hills form its picturesque boundary on either hand. when the high summer winds sweep easterly down its broad avenue, laden with clouds of flying sand from vacant lots along its either margin, it becomes a decidedly open question whether the lots aforesaid really belong in the department of real estate, or should, properly enter the catalogue of "movable property." we have dwelt thus at length upon this street, not only on account of its central position and superior dimensions, but because it is a representative street. others are like it as far as they can be. they would resemble it still more closely, did length, width and direction permit. it is fast becoming the great business street of the city, and, spite of the roughness and crudeness necessarily attaching to all the streets of a new and fast-growing city, it unmistakably possesses all the requisites of the future "grand avenue" of the pacific metropolis. on the northeast of market street, through the older portion of the city, the streets run at right angles with each other, though neither at right angles or parallel with market. one set runs, in straight lines, nearly north and south. the other set, also straight, crosses the former at right angles, that is, running nearly east and west. the principal of these streets, as one goes from the bay westerly, back toward the hills, and, in fact, some distance up their slopes, are front, battery, sansome, montgomery, kearny, dupont, stockton, powell, mason, taylor, and a dozen others, of which those nearer the bay are gradually growing into importance as business streets, especially along the more level portions of their southern blocks, near where they run into market street. beyond these, that is, west of them, the streets are chiefly occupied by dwelling houses, among which are many expensive residences of the most modern construction and elegant design. between front street and the bay run two shorter streets, davis and drumm, along which, as well as upon the northern part of front street, are several of the principal wharves, piers, docks and steamboat landings. at right angles with these streets, running back at an acute angle from market street, and at a right angle with the water front as well as the streets already named, are geary, post, sutter, bush, pine, california, sacramento, clay, washington, jackson, pacific, broadway, with a dozen or more others still further north, and a score or so south. along the eastern blocks of these streets, that is, within five or six squares of the water, stand many of the leading business houses, hotels, newspaper offices, etc. a sufficient variety of pavement diversifies the surface of all these streets--from the primitive, original and everlasting cobble, destroyer of quiet, destruction to wheels and death on horses, to the smooth-rolling nicolson and the beautifully level stow foundation, blessed bane of all the above abominations, and not a specially bad thing for the contractors. the sidewalks generally have a liberal breadth. they are commonly covered with plank, asphaltum or brick, and, near the corners and in front of the numerous rum-holes, with gangs of bilks or crowds of loafers, who have only, as sydney smith once said of a certain vestry in london, to lay their heads together to make a first-class wooden pavement. south of market street, that is, in the newer and more rapidly growing portion of the city, the streets were laid out under a new survey, and, of course, have an angle and direction of their own. one set runs parallel with market, that is, nearly southwest and northeast. their names, in receding order from market, are mission, howard, folsom, harrison, bryant, brannan, etc. these streets are generally wider than those of the older, northern part. southeast of them are seven or eight parallel streets, gradually growing shorter as they come nearer the mission bay, ending in south street, less than a block and a half long, lying along the water front. the lower or eastern ends of nearly all these streets run down to piers and wharves, upon which are the leading lumber and coal yards of the city, the largest hay and grain barns and sheds, and the immense docks of the great pacific mail steamship company. nearly two miles back from the water front all these streets "swing around the circle" far enough to bring them into an exactly north and south line, and creep southward down the peninsula, a block or two farther south every season. the streets running at right angles with market street, beginning at the water front and reckoning back southwesterly, are named by their numbers, first, second, etc., up to thirtieth, and even beyond. between first street and the present water front, some six or seven blocks have been filled in and are occupied chiefly by gas works, lumber yards and large manufactories. the new streets thus formed are named, in receding order from first street, fremont, beale, main, spear, stuart and east. to reduce blocks to miles, one has only to know that in the older part of the city the blocks, reckoning east and west, number twelve to the mile, including the streets between. from north to south they are shorter, numbering sixteen to the mile. south of market street the blocks are about one seventh of a mile long from east to west, and one ninth of a mile wide. in both the older and newer parts of the city, the regular standard blocks are frequently subdivided by one, and sometimes two, smaller streets, running through them each way. near the city front, the first six blocks, reckoning back from the water, have from one half to two thirds the standard size. bearing these dimensions in mind, one can readily reduce blocks to miles, and calculate distance and time accordingly. approaches to the city. from only one direction can the traveler approach the city by land; that is, by coming up from the south, through san josé and the intervening places. from every other direction one approaches by water. between sacramento and san francisco there are two principal routes by rail. the first brings the tourist to vallejo, sixty miles, and thence twenty-three miles by boat, making a total of eighty-three miles, over the shortest and quickest route. time, four hours and a half, fare, $3.00. approaching by this route, he comes down upon the city from the northeast. on the left, the san pablo, berkeley, oakland and alameda shores, rising gently back into broad plains, whose further edges fringe the feet of the back-lying hills. beyond the hills, mount diablo. on the larboard bow, as the sailors say, that is, a little southwest, rises goat island, or yerba buena, three hundred and forty feet. this island looks "very like a whale," and in outline seems a very monster among leviathans at that. directly south the waters of the bay stretch so far that one can seldom discern the shore line, and may easily fancy himself looking out to sea in that direction. further round to the right, that is, more westerly, he may catch a glimpse of hunter's point with the chimney and engine house of the dry dock. nearer lies the potrero, with the suburban city fast creeping up the sides, and crowning the summit of its rocky promontory. from the beach, at its nearest base, stretch out the piers and rise the grimy buildings of the pacific rolling mills. still nearer you see the south end of the long bridge, stretching southerly across mission bay, and connecting the potrero with the city. in a line with the further end of this bridge, and a mile or more nearer, we have the piers and sheds of the pacific mail steamship company, with the immense ships of their china line, the largest wooden vessels afloat. the steep slope just to the right of them, on which you see the upper stories of a large brick building, is rincon hill, and the building is the u. s. marine hospital. that monument, as it seems, is the shot tower, while in front of, around and beyond it, you see the usual medley of ordinary city buildings, here and there rising into single or double church spires, broken by the bulk of some big business block, and relieved by the regular lines of intersecting streets. right of rincon hill, where the city fills a broad hollow, you are looking over what was once the "happy valley" of early times. in a line beyond it lies the mission, which you cannot now discover, backed by the "twin peaks," and the high hills which form the back-bone of the peninsula. still following around, the larger buildings of the older city meet the eye, gradually rising up the southern slope. those singular minarets or mosque-like twin towers or spires, surmount the jewish synagogue. here and there a church spire shoots above the roofs, but one sees fewer of them than in eastern cities of equal size, because the possibility of earthquakes, and the certainty of high winds, restrain architects and builders from attempting anything too lofty or exposed. several of the finest churches in the city, spread out on the earth much more than they rise toward heaven. one reason may be that they do not own far in the latter direction. north of the synagogue towers, the hill still rises through three blocks, when it reaches its full height in california street hill. then a slight depression in the hill-top outline, followed by another rise into the clay street and washington street hill, two blocks north and three blocks west of the former. the higher hill still further north but nearer the front, is the famous land-mark and signal-station, telegraph hill, from whose top the long familiar observatory has but recently disappeared; prostrated on a stormy night last winter, by one of the giant winds whose fury it had so long defied. beyond, or to the right of telegraph hill, the city falls away to the northwest, and the bay shore also trends in that direction. black point, the presidio, and finally fort point, bring us to the golden gate. unfolding to empire its way, wide opened by gold and by fate, swung by tides which no nation can stay, here standeth the continent's gate. through the narrow gate one has a single glimpse of the grand old sea, which stretches so peacefully away under the sunset. for northern gate-post you have lime point; and thence the vision rests on high hills packed in behind, and gradually lifting the gaze to mount tamalpais, beyond whose sharply-cut summit, nothing of note attracts the sight. between us and tamalpais, four miles nearer and half a mile lower, close at the water's edge, we have the small but beautifully situated town of saucelito, with its sheltered picnic grounds and tranquil bay. beyond the saucelito bay you can almost see through raccoon strait, and discover that the higher land nearer the boat is not a point, but an island. its name is angel island. it is the largest and most valuable island in the bay. the government owns it and occupies its southwestern side with barracks, garrison and parade grounds. several batteries dot the shore at different points, and a military road around the island, connects them with the garrison. this other small island of solid rock, crowned with a heavy fortress and girt with forts and batteries, is alcatraz, the pacific gibraltar. instead of coming by way of vallejo, the passenger from sacramento may come by rail through stockton, forty-eight miles; thence by rail to oakland, eighty-six miles; and thence by boat to san francisco, four miles; making a total distance of one hundred and thirty-eight miles, all rail except the last four. through fare, $2.50. by this route you approach the city on the east, and have only to change the point of sight from northeast to east, and remember that goat island will be seen close by on the right hand, that is, north of the boat, to make the description of the approach from vallejo almost equally accurate and easily adaptable for the approach from oakland, which is the direction from which the great majority approach. those who may prefer can have their choice of a third way from sacramento, and a second from stockton; that is by steamer, usually leaving each of those cities at noon, and due in san francisco in eight hours. from sacramento by water the distance is one hundred and twenty-five miles, and the fare, $1.50; from stockton, one hundred and twenty miles, fare, $1.50; dinner on board, $1.00; staterooms, $2.00, single berths, $1.00. these boats reach san francisco so early one seldom needs a stateroom, except in case of illness, or a strong desire for seclusion. both lines of steamers land at the same pier, at the foot of broadway, from ten to twelve blocks from the leading first-class hotels. the only important route of approaching san francisco, and riding into the city by land, lies on the south, coming from gilroy, san josé, santa clara, redwood city, and intermediate places, in the cars of the southern pacific railroad. coming in by this route, one traverses the fertile plains of the santa clara valley, and skirts the foot-hills lying along the western base of the almost mountains, which form the divide between the bay slope and the ocean slope of the broad peninsula. near redwood city, and for the succeeding fifteen miles, the track runs between fresh water fields on the west and salt water marsh upon the east. from the twelve-mile farm in, we strike nearer the centre of the constantly narrowing peninsula, and near san miguel catch the first glimpse of the broad pacific. the large building just west of the track is the industrial school, our california house of reformation. the southern suburbs of the city, through which we enter, present nothing remarkable beyond the usual medley of old shanties, broad vegetable gardens, pleasant, home-like cottages, and here and there the more pretentious suburban residence, increasing in number as we come nearer the centre. we come in by valencia street, and reach the station upon market, just east of its junction with valencia. ocean approach. besides the approaches already mentioned, one may come in from panama, mexico, oregon, the sandwich islands, australia, japan or china. from whichever he may come, for the last ten miles before reaching the dock, his track will be the same. a few miles west of fort point, all these various ocean routes converge into one, enter san francisco bay by the golden gate, and bear away southward until they intersect, and for a short distance coincide with, the approach from vallejo, already briefly described. conveyances. hacks.--approaching the wharf or the railroad station, you encounter the usual jargon of hotel and baggage runners, each shouting his hotel, hack or coach, as if strength of lungs was his chief stock in trade. it is but simple justice to san francisco hackmen, however, to say that a more obliging, prompt, and courteous set, can hardly be found in any american city of equal size. that travelers may exactly understand for themselves the law regulating hacks and coaches, we quote order no. 718, of the board of supervisors of the city and county of san francisco: section 7. "for a hackney carriage drawn by more than one horse, for one person, not exceeding one mile, $1.50, and for _more_ than one person, not exceeding one mile, $2.50; and for each additional mile, for _each_ passenger, 50 cents. for a hackney carriage drawn by one horse, for one person, not exceeding one mile, $1.00; for more than one person, not exceeding one mile, $1.50; for each passenger, for each additional mile, 25 cents." sec. 8. "from any landing of any steamboat, to any point east of the west line of larkin street, and north of the south line of brannan street, and east of third street, shall, in all cases, be estimated not to exceed one mile." in forty-nine cases out of fifty, no newly-arrived gentleman or lady will have any personal need to know the law; the foregoing is written mainly for the fiftieth. bear in mind that these rates, like all fares and charges in the golden state, are payable in gold or its equivalent coin; also, that they are the _highest_. hackmen often carry for less. coaches.--besides the hacks, one may find hotel coaches, which carry free to the hotel for which they run, or charge fifty cents for each passenger within the limits above specified. cars.--the red cars of the city front line pass the head of the dock every five minutes. these carry one to the very door of the "cosmopolitan," and "occidental" hotels, within one block of the "lick house," and two blocks of the "grand hotel." directly across the street from the pier of the sacramento and stockton steamers, half a block from the landing for passengers by rail, and one block from the landing of those coming by vallejo, the green cars of the sutter street line carry one directly by the "cosmopolitan," the "lick house," and the "occidental," and within half a block of the "grand." on both these lines the rate is ten cents coin for a single fare, or twenty-five cents for a coupon ticket good for four rides. wagons.--at or near any landing, one can always find numbered express wagons, waiting to carry baggage for from 50 cents to $1.00, according to bulk, weight, or distance. porters.--black, white and yellow, will serve you for "two bits," that is 25 cents, for carrying any reasonable package within reasonable distance. it is well, however, to keep your eye on porter and package. baggage and package expresses.--half an hour or more before reaching the city, either by car or boat, agents of the above companies will take your checks and your money, give you a receipt for both, and deliver your baggage, for 25 cents for each ordinary-sized trunk or valise, at any place within the single-fare limits already given. these are reliable and responsible companies, whose agents none need fear to trust. they deliver baggage promptly and in as good condition as received. hotels. the foreign tourist can witness to the great lack of really fine hotels abroad. all england hardly furnishes a single hotel to rank with the best of our second-class hotels in america. outside of boston, new york, philadelphia, chicago, st. louis, and cincinnati, few, even of the northern cities, present any notable hotel attractions to the temporary guest. new orleans has a single good hotel, but hardly one of the other southern cities has yet outgrown the old-fashioned "tavern." in respect to these--in good hotels--by the immediate and unanimous verdict of every tourist, san francisco stands preëminent. nowhere on the continent can the traveler find beds, tables and rooms superior to those of the "grand," the "occidental," the "cosmopolitan," and the "lick house," and in no large city of america will he find as reasonable charges, considering the amount and quality of accommodation and the style of service rendered. the usual standard rate at the four leading first-class houses, is $3.00 a day, for board and room. at the "brooklyn," "russ," and "american exchange," the rates are $2.00 to $2.50 a day, for good rooms and equally good board. the grand hotel.--this magnificent hotel is the newest of all. it stands on the south side of market street, occupying the whole block from new montgomery to second street, and stretching southward along new montgomery, across stevenson street to jessie. its north front is 205 feet, its west front 335 feet, thus covering over one acre and a half of ground. its height is three stories, surmounted by a mansard roof, containing a fourth. its style of architecture may be called the "modern combination," highly ornamented. in method of construction, it is a complete frame building, surrounded by brick walls of unusual thickness. its four hundred rooms include chambers, parlors and suits of the amplest dimensions and the richest furnishing. the halls, corridors and stairways are spacious and airy. through all the halls, at intervals of every few feet, hang coils of fire-hose, each attached to full hydrants, and always ready for instant use. bath-rooms and toilets abound. barber-shop, billiard room, and the most elegantly frescoed bar-room upon the coast, occupy the most convenient portions of the basement and first floor. an amply-supplied reading-room, with most luxurious chairs, invites and detains all weary guests. branch offices of the leading telegraphs, postal delivery box, and all needed facilities for correspondence, are at hand. hacks stand constantly at the three spacious entrances, and four leading lines of horse-cars radiate thence to every portion of the city and suburbs. the dining-hall accommodates three hundred. its tables are of moderate size, surrounded by plenty of room, loaded with abundant "substantials," flanked with all the latest delicacies, and served in the most attentive manner. breakfast rooms for private parties, and separate eating-rooms for servants and children, immediately adjoin the main dining-hall. a large and well-appointed laundry promptly accommodates guests. if there's anything else imaginable in the whole list of first-class hotel accommodations, just mention it to your obliging host johnson, or his courteous and efficient adjutant, ridgeway, and it shall go hard but they will furnish it for you at once, if it is to be had within the limits of telegraph and express. the occidental.--this popular standard house stands upon the east side of montgomery; its west front occupies the whole block from bush street to sutter; stretches its north flank half a block down bush street, while its south flank goes a hundred and sixty-seven feet down sutter street. vertically it rises six stories into the sunshine. four hundred and twelve elegant single and double rooms, with numerous suits having ample bathing and other accommodations, besides ladies' parlors, dining-halls, billiard-hall, convenient offices, broad stairways, spacious halls, and roomy passages, make up this truly magnificent mammoth establishment. the carpets and furniture are of the most elegant and costly description. a large and beautifully-fitted patent safety elevator adjoins the grand staircase near the main hall, and reading-room at the montgomery street entrance. near the main entrance is a telegraph-office--hacks stand always in front, and four leading lines of horse-cars pass the three entrances. a newspaper and periodical stand, with post-office letter-box, complete the conveniences of the reading-room. the walls are braced with iron, and securely anchored, besides being connected across the building by heavy iron ties on every story. manager, philip mcshane. cosmopolitan hotel.--this worthy compeer of the two already described, occupies the southwest corner of bush and sansome streets. centrally-located, elegantly-constructed, conveniently-arranged, and well-furnished, this house is one of the largest and newest first-class hotels. an extensive addition, including some scores of single and double rooms, richly furnished in the most modern style, sufficiently indicate its prosperity. tubbs & patten, managers. lick house.--west side of montgomery, between sutter and post streets. its east front occupies the entire block between these two streets, and runs up between one and two hundred feet of each of them. whilst this house is excellently finished and furnished throughout, it is especially celebrated for its elegant dining-hall, which is probably more artistically-planned and exquisitely-finished than any public dining-hall in the world. jno. m. lawlor & co., managers. brooklyn hotel.--next to the elegant hotels already named, one may reckon the "brooklyn"--on bush street, north side, between montgomery and sansome. this excellent house makes a specialty of accommodating families, having an unusually large number of suits of rooms especially designed for their comfort. its rates are about two thirds of those before mentioned. hotel coaches convey all guests to the house free of charge. messrs. kelly & wood, proprietors. besides the "brooklyn," the traveler not wishing to stop at any of the grander and dearer houses, may have his choice of the "russ house," west side of montgomery, from sutter to pine, messrs. pearson & seymour, proprietors; the "american exchange," sansome street, west side, corner of halleck, timothy sargent, proprietor; the "morton house," formerly orleans hotel, 117 post street, south side, just above kearny; and the "international hotel," weygant & partridge, 530-534 jackson street, north side, just below kearny. european plan.--one fond of this style, may suit himself at gailhard's hotel, nos. 507 and 509 pine street, pereira & co., proprietors. "what cheer house"--this famous hotel combines the lodging-house and restaurant under one roof, with a success of which no old californian needs be told. besides the usual reading-room, it has also an extensive library and museum, free to all guests; r. b. woodward, proprietor, 525-529 sacramento street. lodging houses. among these we name the "nucleus" and the "clarendon" as equal to the best. the "nucleus" stands on the southeast corner of third and market streets; david stern, proprietor. the "clarendon house," john m. ward, manager, 574 folsom street, northwest corner of second, is new and central. restaurants. whether a man eats to live or lives to eat, he can readily suit himself here. at present rates, the traveler can get better food, greater variety, and more of it for the same money, than in any eastern city. among the best restaurants, are saulmann's, 520 california street, north side, between montgomery and kearny; swain's family bakery and restaurant, 636 market, north side, between montgomery and kearny; martin's, commercial street; job's, 327 kearny; and lermitte's coffee saloon, 530 merchant street. baths. the hotels usually furnish first-class facilities without the trouble of going out from under the roof. should anyone, however, wish a more extended application of fresh or salt water, hot or cold, vapor or steam, turkish, russian or roman, he has come to the very place where they have them even better than in their original countries. if you doubt it, ask bayard taylor. zeile's baths, at 527 pacific street, north side, between montgomery and kearny, furnish more natural facilities and improved artificial appliances for the scientific application of russian, turkish, and roman baths, than any other establishment in europe or america. the visitor will be surprised at the extent and completeness of every appointment in dr. zeile's establishment. places of amusement. no matter how busy you may be at home, you are _here_ for enjoyment. when evening comes you want a good lecture, concert or play. we have them all--the first occasionally, the last two regularly. the newest, largest and finest play house is the california theater, on the north side of bush street between kearny and dupont: john mccullough, lessee and manager. if there's a good play in the city, we generally find it here; if there are comfortable chairs and luxurious boxes anywhere, they are certainly here; and if there's an artist of good taste and a successful manager combined in one man, his name is john mccullough. the theater is new and spacious, having comfortable seats for over three thousand, one of the largest stages in the united states, with complete mechanical appliances, and finely-painted scenery and drop-curtain. metropolitan theater.--montgomery street, north side, between washington and jackson. occasionally occupied for transient engagements, often presenting excellent plays. has fine acoustic properties; seats two thousand. alhambra, 325 bush street. this is a snug and tasty combination of theater, minstrels and opera house, usually presenting some popular and spicy blending of wit, art and song. maguire's opera house.--washington street, north side, between montgomery and kearny; thomas maguire, proprietor. this is the famous old theater in which forrest, kean and booth delighted the california audiences of earlier days. chinese theater.--at no. 630 jackson street the curious visitor may witness the most curious medley ever put upon a stage and called a play. an interminable and unintelligible jargon of ding-dong, clatter-clatter, tum-tum and rattle-rattle-rattle combined with falsetto screeches, wonderful gymnastics, graceful contortions, terrific sword combats, and strange old oriental masqueradings, is what you may see in the celestial play house. half an hour of it will fully satisfy you; but every eastern visitor must needs endure at least so much. museums--woodward's.--at woodward's gardens, mission street, between thirteenth and fourteenth. this contains over ten thousand specimens of zoology, ornithology, indian relics, alcoholic collections, natural curiosities, ancient coins, etc., besides a beautifully arranged and finely lighted art gallery, including several rare old pictures, and a sort of floral museum in the shape of a charming conservatory, wherein fragrance vies with beauty to delight and detain. melodeons, dance halls, beer cellars.--we hardly anticipate that the average tourist will care to be "guided" into places under this heading, but the philosophic student of human nature, as well as the curious observer of social customs, cannot consider his knowledge of any city complete until he has personally seen and actually known, not only the highest, but the lowest, amusements extensively patronized by its people. like all other large cities, san francisco has its share of low haunts in which really modest, and sometimes meritorious, performances blend with a much larger proportion of immodest, meretricious and disgraceful ones. halls. platt's hall.--216 montgomery, east side, just north of bush street, is one of the most popular in the city. popular concerts, literary lectures, religious anniversaries, educational celebrations, magical entertainments, military balls and social dances, succeed each other so rapidly that there are few nights, especially in the pleasure season, when platt's hall does not offer something worth going to see. henry b. platt, proprietor. union hall.--south side of howard, near third. this is the largest permanent hall in the city, and a grand place for unusually large social parties, exhibitions, political conventions and popular mass meetings. it easily accommodates upwards of three thousand. pacific hall.--in the california theater building, north side of bush, just above kearny. this is a centrally-located, tastefully-finished double hall, that is, two connected so as to be used singly or jointly according to need. capacity, fifteen hundred. mercantile library hall.--in the basement of the mercantile library association building, north side of bush street, between montgomery and sansome. elegantly finished in pure white, with paneled and ornamented walls and ceilings. accommodates eight hundred. the closeness of the neighboring buildings gives it a bad light by day, but no hall in the city lights up more brilliantly at night. mechanics' institute hall.--upon the lower floor of the building of that association, south side of post street, between montgomery and kearny. this is another newly-constructed, conveniently-planned, well-furnished and centrally-located hall, with a medium capacity of about six hundred. y. m. c. a. hall.--young men's christian association building, north side of sutter, just west of kearny. a remarkably neat, well-proportioned, lofty and well-ventilated hall, having its capacity largely increased by a conveniently-sloping gallery stretching across the whole of one side, and throwing forward its flanks at either end. capacity, six hundred and fifty. dashaway hall.--dashaway society's building, south side of post, between kearny and dupont. this singular name belongs to the pioneer temperance organization of the pacific coast. its origin can hardly be better stated than in the brief sentences of tuthill, in his history of california: "a company of firemen, howard no. 3, sitting in their engine house late at night, january 1st, 1859, celebrating new year's after the custom of the country, fell to musing over their future prospects, and were vouchsafed a vision of their probable fate. at last they solemnly agreed to discontinue the use of intoxicating liquor, or, as they phrased it, to "_dash away_ the cup." they accordingly organized a temperance society of "dashaways," with frank e. r. whitney, chief engineer of the fire department of san francisco, as their first president, pledging themselves to drink nothing intoxicating for five and one half months. they kept their promise, and liked it so well that, before reaching the limit of their self-imposed pledge, they renewed it for all time." thus began the first temperance society of california, which has enrolled thousands of names, erected a fine building, founded a large library, and maintains weekly lectures to this day. in a country where wine is fast becoming a chief production, and whose greatest present danger is the social glass, the origin, efforts and success of the pioneer temperance organization merit more than passing notice. billiards.--tournaments and champions of this king of in-door games compel brief mention of this popular amusement and the places where one may best enjoy it. every leading hotel has a fine billiard room attached; those of the four first named are palatial in the elegance and richness of their finish and furniture. bowling saloons and shooting galleries.--we set these together, not because of any particular affinity between the two, but because the city has hardly enough of either to make an item of one alone. at the southwest corner of montgomery and pine, the enthusiastic bowler may probably find as many pins as he can prostrate, with attendants who can set them up as fast as he can knock them down; while at 913 kearny street, he can keep up his practice, if already an expert, or "get his hand in," if a novice, at "shooting folly as she flies." those wishing the longer range for rifle practice, find it at hermann's, near the presidio, that is, on one's way to fort point. gymnasiums. although nominally a christian land, california has yet many sturdy "musclemen" within her borders, while her larger cities have several schools of various kinds, for the training of young disciples in "muscular christianity." chief among these in san francisco, stands the olympic club, the largest physical culture club in the state. founded in 1860, during its eleven years of ceaseless and increasing activity, over five thousand persons have availed themselves of its admirable facilities for acquiring or perfecting one's ability to "travel on his muscle." it is by no means an association of boys, or of young men only; some of the best known gray-beard pioneers, with many of the leading merchants and professional men, have enthusiastically enjoyed their daily "play-spell" within its walls for many years, and they do it still. at 35 sutter street, south side, just below montgomery, one may find their spacious and lofty hall, amply supplied with all the paraphernalia of modern gymnastics, and adorned with several large paintings in oil, by prominent artists who are also olympics, besides the photographs of past and present leading members. the san francisco turn-verein have their hall and rooms on the north side of o'farrell, between mason and taylor. organized in 1852, it is the oldest association in the state, owns its premises, and has an actual present membership of nearly six hundred. it is, of course, conducted upon the german plan. y. m. c. a.--those who want a roll at the pins upon strictly orthodox principles, or to punch each other's heads under the sanction of christianity, can escape, or at least modify, the censure of their uncharitable spiritual superiors, by resorting to the very neat and comfortable gymnasium in the basement of the young men's christian association building, already described. this has the great advantage and the unquestionable attraction of providing for ladies also. it has all the necessary conveniences of bath-rooms and dressing-rooms attached. skating rinks.--mercury, the fleet messenger of the gods, is fabled to have had _wings_ upon his feet. forbidden by gravity to emulate him, our modern skaters fasten _wheels_ to their feet, and make up for their inability to fly by developing their power to skate. the immense floor of the mechanics' institute mammoth pavilion, on the west side of stockton, between post and geary, affords the largest and smoothest rink to be found in the union. two or three others exist in the city, besides the very large and fine new one in the pavilion at woodward's gardens. base-ball and cricket grounds.--at the southeast corner of folsom and twenty-fifth streets, an entire block, inclosed by a high fence, leveled to the necessary smoothness and overlooked by several hundred well-sheltered spectators' seats, furnishes fine accommodations for match games of base-ball and cricket. here the famous red stockings, of cincinnati, won fresh laurels, and the officers and crew of h. b. m. ship zealous, played the crack cricket clubs of the state. parks and gardens. woodward's gardens are on the west side of mission street, between thirteenth and fourteenth. this famous resort is both park and garden, and much more besides. its fences inclose nearly six acres, but its actual surface considerably surpasses that area, from the fact that the hill-slopes and terraces, with the various floors and galleries of the different buildings really double or even treble the original surface beneath, so that, if spread upon one level, they would cover thousands of square feet more. they thus rival any public square in size and far surpass it in variety and beauty. we reach them, by the red cars of the city railroad company, leaving the west front of the grand hotel, at the junction of new montgomery avenue and market street, every five minutes--fare five cents. or we may go out by either the market street, howard street, or folsom street cars. the first of these carry us within a little over a block of the entrance--fare, five cents; the second within a block, and the third within two blocks. fare on the last two, ten cents for a single ride, or four tickets for a quarter. on sunny days and holiday afternoons the city railroad runs large, open-sided excursion or picnic cars, newly constructed expressly to be run to and from the gardens. the entrance is upon the west side of mission, between thirteenth and fourteenth, through an elegant architectural gateway, or sort of façade, surmounted by four colossal statues, or carved figures. the two central figures resemble a combination of minerva and the goddess of liberty; one might not go far wrong in letting them stand for california and oregon. the one upon either flank is a notably well-carved grizzly; larger than life and twice as natural, sitting erect upon his haunches, supporting a flag-staff with his fore paws, and with mouth slightly opened in an amiable grin of undisguised pleasure at the prominence of his elevated position, and of welcome to the visiting thousands who constantly deposit their quarters and dimes beneath his sentinel post. arrived within we seem to have suddenly left the windy city and dusty streets far behind. grassy lawns surround beautiful gardens. every variety of flowery vine and blossoming shrub alternates with rare trees interspersed here and there with artificial clumps of imported trees, or stretching along the border of the original grove native to the spot, while gravel walks wind among the whole. immediately upon the right of the entrance, in the gate-keeper's building, is a library of nearly two thousand standard volumes, many of them rare and costly. directly in front of the gateway, stands the museum, formerly mr. woodward's private residence--at present occupied by a miscellaneous museum of natural and artificial wonders, beasts, birds, fishes and shells, with an occasional freak of nature in the shape of a mammoth or a dwarf, or a still more startling preservation of some double-headed or six-legged specimens. the zoologist or ornithologist would scarcely get beyond this building the first day. left of the museum stands the conservatory. this is the principal one of five flower and plant houses, having an aggregate length of three hundred feet by one tenth that width. this is a really elegant crystal palace in miniature, filled with the beauty and fragrance of the rarest exotics. through this one may pass directly to the art gallery. the vestibule or ante-room of the art gallery is in fact another museum, containing two statues, an extensive collection of birds and bird's eggs; upwards of a thousand coins of all ages and nations, curious idols and weapons, with hundreds of other curiosities helpfully classified, and the whole enclosed in an ante-room elegantly proportioned and beautifully frescoed by poldeman, in imitation of pompeii. thence we enter the art gallery proper, lighted from above--frescoed by the same artist--decorated, in the corners, with allegorical representations of painting, sculpture, music and architecture--while over the door hang the two celebrated bas-reliefs, "night" and "morning," by thorwaldsen. niches on each side contain busts of schiller, goethe, tasso and petrarch. over sixty rare old paintings or faithful copies cover the walls. raphael and salvator rosa appear in beautiful copies; several gems from the best dutch masters furnish a transition to the modern school, of which one or two pictures from bierstadt, and two or three views of california scenery by virgil williams, stand as pleasing types. leaving the art gallery, by another exit, we stand upon the margin of a lovely little lake, around whose centre revolves the great attraction for the young folks, and no small novelty to most adult visitors, the famous rotary boat. this endless craft is a huge circular vessel, rigged with fore and aft sails, and seating a hundred people, who step in from the concave landing upon one side as the radial seats successively come up. it would puzzle the "cutest" old salt to find bow or stern to this curious craft; the shrewdest countrymen have to confess that they "can't make head nor tail out of the thing," while the enjoyment which the youngsters find in it, like the boat itself, never comes to an end. between the lake and the conservatory, an outdoor gymnasium, with ladders, bars, rings, swings and climbing-poles, accommodates all who may wish to recreate the body. from the lake flows a little stream, along whose banks the pelican, the crane, the albatross, the wild goose and the common gull, pompously stalk or awkwardly waddle; while in its water, two or three beavers, a pair of minks and a seal or two, make their homes. beyond this, the hennery, in which the admirer of fine poultry may see a large variety of the choicest stock. an adjoining inclosure presents a pair of ostriches, and another has two or three beautiful deer and fawn. near the southwest corner of the garden, the tunnel carries the visitor through a heavily-timbered, securely planked, cleanly-kept and well-lighted passage under fourteenth street, into the zoological grounds and the amphitheater. here, ranged along the north side, backed by a high and tight fence, and fronting the south that they may have the warmest possible exposure, are the animals of the menagerie. royal bengal tigers, rocky mountain grizzlies, mexican panthers, and south american jaguars, australian kangaroos, and a curious medley of dissimilar animals known as the "happy family," make up the caged collection. the cages are roomy, airy, cleanly and secure. the animals are remarkably fine specimens, kept in capital condition, and the keeper is intelligent and courteous. beyond the great cages is another range of smaller ones, containing black and cinnamon bears, foxes, badgers, raccoons, opossums, and mischievous monkeys of all sizes. esquimaux dogs, siberian reindeer and european elk, with many other animals, more than we have space even to catalogue, make up a collection of animated nature sufficient to stock half a dozen ordinary traveling shows, and still leave enough on hand to surpass any of them. besides these, spacious inclosures allow arabian and bactrian camels a free promenade, while still beyond, another yard is tenanted by the shaggiest, sleepiest-looking, most patient and good-natured donkeys that ever allowed a gang of roistering youngsters to pack themselves upon their backs, only to be incontinently and ignominiously pitched over their heads into a promiscuous pile of dust-covered and disgusted juvenile humanity. at the extreme end of the zoological grounds the inclosure on the right contains a genuine rocky mountain buffalo, while in the larger one upon the left, two or three reindeer contentedly browse. amphitheater. in the center of the zoological grounds, a large race-course, securely inclosed between inner and outer circular fences, affords free scope for roman chariot races, hurdle races, foot races, and equestrian performances generally. within the inner fence, a level circle of some eighty feet diameter, accommodates acrobatic performers; while a lofty pole, rising from its center, furnishes ambitious youngsters all needed facilities for flying swings or skillful "shinning." around this stadium are raised seats for three thousand, with a covered portion sheltering six hundred, not to mention standing room for ten thousand more. returning through the tunnel we turn to the left, ascend the hill and enter the pavilion. this is the largest and strongest permanent wooden building upon the coast. it has the form of a parallelogram with the corners unequally cut off, thus giving its ground outline the shape of an irregular octagon. it is one hundred and fifty feet long, by one hundred and thirty wide and fifty high, surmounted by a water-tight roof, nearly an acre and a half in extent. half a dozen broad entrances admit us to the spacious interior. here we have a central floor; one hundred and ten feet long by ninety feet wide, as solidly laid, perfectly fitted and smoothly planed as art could make it, and furnishing the finest skating rink imaginable, or the most capacious ball-room floor to be desired. around this floor, a sort of dress-circle, fitted with easy seats, separated by broad aisles and roomy spaces, rises gradually back to the surrounding wall. this dress-circle accommodates three thousand spectators. above it is a broad gallery of equal size, similarly fitted and holding as many. the gallery windows command a fine view of the underlying gardens, the meandering walks, the lake, the conservatories, shrubbery and the museum; of the zoological grounds and amphitheater further away, and of the southwestern suburbs, bounded by the mission hills, beyond. this pavilion has a seating capacity of six thousand, while for any brief mass-meeting, four thousand more could easily stand in the nine thousand nine hundred square feet of space upon the floor. a commodious and conveniently located music, or speaker's stand, with broad stairways between dress-circle and gallery, complete the appointments of this mammoth building, whose workman-like finish and enormous strength, fully equal its huge size and immense capacity. just west of the pavilion stands a picturesque little turkish mosque, whose exterior faithfully reproduces the oriental original. its interior is tastefully frescoed, while its domed ceiling presents an astronomical fresco, representing the starry heavens. near the southeast corner of the pavilion is the restaurant, so that one need not leave the grounds, should he find occasion to fill his stomach before he has sufficiently feasted his eyes. between the restaurant and the mosque, occupying the highest point of the hill, stands the observatory, formed by a secure railing and comfortable seats inclosing and surrounding the circular top of a huge reservoir, or tank. until the recent erection of the pavilion, this was the best point of view from which to study the plan of the grounds and enjoy their scenery; and even now, it well rewards ascent, especially for those who hardly care to climb into the pavilion gallery. in various snug places among and under the trees, and, in some places, surrounding their trunks, are scattered scores of lunch tables, as a sort of out-post or picket-guard thrown out by the restaurant proper. all about the top of the pavilion hill, and for some distance down its sides, these tables, of all shapes and sizes, round, ring-shaped, triangular, octagonal, square, and "parallelogramical," and surrounded by an abundance of comfortable seats, occupy the most romantic situations. descending the hill-slope by a winding path, we pass a broad lawn upon the left, on which the enterprising proprietor proposes the early erection of a large, conveniently-arranged fire-proof museum, for the better security of his valuable collections and cabinets. we have now completed the general tour of this elegant park, with its delightful combination of the beautiful in nature and the wonderful in art, with the rarest curiosities of both. as a broad and airy holiday play-ground for tired pupils, as a romantic retreat for family picnics, as a pleasure-park for the quiet promenades of old and young, as a varied field of study for the naturalist, as one of the lungs through which the tired and dusty city may draw a cool, refreshing, healthful breath, and, finally, as a grand union of park, garden, conservatory, museum, gymnasium, zoological grounds and art gallery, no eastern city offers the equal of woodward's gardens. city gardens. on the south side of twelfth street, stretching from folsom to harrison, and running half a block south. entrance on the corner of folsom and twelfth. reached most directly by the folsom street cars. admission, 25 cts. menageries. the finest in the city is that already described in the zoological department of woodward's gardens. the only other is a small collection of bears, monkeys and birds at north beach. squares and parks. the oldest and best finished public square is portsmouth square, commonly called the plaza, on the west side of kearny street, extending from clay street to washington street, and directly fronting the old city hall. besides these are washington, union, columbia, lobos, alcatraz, lafayette, jefferson, alta, hamilton and alamo squares, with yerba buena, buena vista and golden gate parks. the last named covers nearly 1,200 acres, (of sand at present.) of these, the plaza and washington square are the principal ones which have been sufficiently improved to merit even passing notice. to these one may add south park, a small but elegant private inclosure occupying the centre of the block between bryant and brannan streets. promenades. montgomery street.--this is the san francisco broadway. flanked on either side by many of the largest and finest retail business houses, as well as two of the leading hotels. during the forenoon business monopolizes it almost exclusively; afternoons fashion claims its sidewalks, and well-nigh crowds business, not exactly to the wall, but rather upon the curbstone, if not fairly into the gutter. from three to five p.m. the tide of mammon begins to ebb, and that of fashion swells in at full flood. fair women and frail, beauty and ugliness--calicoes, silks, satins, velvets, broadcloths, beavers and cashmere, make up the motley throng, swaying and trailing up and down the crowded thoroughfare. the faces are very fair, "as far as we can see," and the forms equally graceful, with the same limitation. masculine faces, broad-browed, clear-eyed, bronze-cheeked, firm-mouthed or full-bearded, impress one with the dash, the drive and the nerve which have spanned the continent with rails and bridged the pacific with ships, ere yet the flush of full manhood has fairly settled upon them. too many, it is true, show the full, uncertain lip, the flushed cheek and dewy eye that tell of excessive stimulus too frequently applied. nowhere on earth is the temptation to drink stronger than here. business is sharp, competition brisk, and the climate the most stimulating anywhere to be found. so they _drive_ till nature falters or weakens and calls for rest. but rest they cannot or will not afford; the stimulus is _quicker_, it is everywhere close at hand--it seems to save time. business men die suddenly; on the street to-day, at laurel hill to-morrow; heart disease, apoplexy, congestion of the lungs, or liver complaint, are among the causes most frequently assigned to the inquiring public. the causes of these causes, few stop to ask, or dare to tell. kearny street.--with montgomery and but a single block above, that is, west of it, runs the rival, if not already the equal, business and pleasure avenue, kearny street. though some single buildings on montgomery may be finer, the average of the business blocks along kearny street already equals, if it does not surpass that of its rival. the street itself is broader, the sidewalks wider, while the press of vehicles and the throngs of fashion are fully equal. california street.--at right angles with both these streets, and intersecting them near their centre, california street, the wall street of san francisco, runs straight down from one of the highest summits within the city limits, to within two blocks of the water front, and there debouches into market. its upper portion lies between elegant private residences; half way down the slope stand two of the leading city churches; below, the _alta_ office, and leading telegraph offices; thence from montgomery down, the finest number of business blocks the city presents. on this street below montgomery, the bank of california, the merchants' exchange, the pacific insurance company's building, hayward's, duncan's, and wormser's, with other blocks and buildings, present a continuous front of architectural beauty rarely equaled. market street.--this broad, dividing avenue which separates the older city from the newer, offers a rare architectural medley to the exploring tourist's eye. some of the grandest business blocks on the pacific slope tower up between or stand squarely opposite the frailest wooden shells that yet survive the "early days." running up from the water, one encounters such noble blocks as treadwell's, not lofty but broad, deep and strong. harpending's whole-block front. the grand hotel and nucleus foretell the size and style of the blocks which are yet to form continuous fronts along this main artery of trade. second, third and fourth streets.--south of market, these streets come nearer to fashionable streets than any others; especially along the blocks nearer to market. they present several single buildings of notable size and style. the best time.--for any walk or drive within the city limits, or on the entire san francisco peninsular, the most comfortable hours of all the day, during the season in which the tourists commonly visit us, that is from may to september, are, unquestionably, the morning hours; the earlier the better. if you would see men and women go later; take the afternoon, face the wind and the dust, be lifted bodily off your feet, round "cape horn," as they call the southeast corner of market and third streets, until you have quite enough of that "free-soil" which may be a very fine thing in politics, but is a "beastly disagreeable thing," as our english friends might say, on a promenade. drives. the cliff house road.--stretches westerly from the city limits, now the west end of bush street, to the pacific ocean beach--originally a mere trail over shifting sand hills. it has become the broadest, hardest, smoothest and longest track in the state. if you want an idea of california horseflesh, and san francisco turnouts, trot out this way almost any day. the track has a fine, hard surface wide enough, in places, for twenty teams abreast, and is often nearly filled from side to side with smooth-rolling or friendly racing teams, from the natty single buggy to the elegant coach, or the stately four-in-hand. a million dollars' worth of legs and wheels flash by a man in a very few hours on this fashionable drive, especially on a race-day. along this road are one or two wayside inns, which, like the majority of california inns, are chiefly drinking-houses under another name. at the end stands the cliff house, so named from its site, the solid top of a precipitous rocky bluff or cliff, overlooking the seal rocks, a few hundred feet west; then a thirty-mile horizon of the pacific ocean, broken only by the sharp rocky points of the farallones low down under the western sky, visible only when fogs and mists and haze are wanting. attached to the house are long horse sheds which shut off the wind from your horse while his driver goes in to interview _foster_, mine host of the cliff. south of the cliff the road goes down to and out upon the ocean house, which differs little from the popular eastern beach drives, except that it is not as wide even at the lowest of the tide, and that the ocean view thence is far more seldom diversified with sails. the beach and surf are good, however, and a brisk drive of two or three miles upon it, seldom fails to put the oxygen into the lungs--the iodine into the blood, and the exhilaration into the spirits. some two or three miles south of the cliff house, the road bends east, leaves the beach and starts back to the city by another way, known as the ocean house road, named, like the other, from the house standing near its seaward end. approaching the city by this route, one reaches a greater height than by the cliff house road, and when about two miles from the city, enjoys a beautiful view of the southern and western city, the shipping, the bay, the opposite shore, the trailing cities and towns, whose houses gleam between the trees of contra costa and alameda counties, with their grassy foot-hills, the whole view backed and bounded by old mt. diablo beyond. returning by this road, one enters the city suburbs upon the southwest by seventeenth, or corbett street, passes directly by the mission with the famous old church which named it, and pursues his way back to the centre by market, mission, howard or folsom streets. between the cliff house and ocean house roads, and nearer the latter, private enterprise has recently constructed a third track, known as the central ocean drive. bay view road.--drive from market street along third to the long bridge, cross that to the potrero, keep straight on through the deep cut, over the islais bridge, thence through south san francisco, up a little rise, from whose summit you look down into a little valley or green bay of vegetable gardens, between which and the water stands the bay view house, on one side of the bay view race track. from several points as you drive out, you will readily understand why they used the phrase "bay view" so frequently in naming localities hereabout. if you wish to return by another way, drive half a mile beyond the track, where your way runs into the older road of early times. if you have time, drive on to the brow of the hill and look down into visitacion valley; if not, at the acute angle where the roads become one, you turn sharply back, and after two miles of slightly uneven road, enter the city between the eastern edge of the mission flats and the western foot of the potrero hills. the best time for all these drives, as already said concerning the promenades, is morning, the earlier the better. besides the greater purity and freshness of the air, everywhere accompanying the morning hours, one then escapes the wind and dust which, on nearly every afternoon, constitute the chief drawback from the full enjoyment of outdoor pleasure during those hours. libraries. in these windy and dusty afternoons, when nature seems to frown, art and literature invite you within, and proffer quiet retreats with the best of company--good books. for a city as young and as distinctively absorbed in business, san francisco has amply provided for the gratification of scientific research or literary taste. the chief libraries are the mercantile, the mechanics' institute, the odd fellows', the pioneers', and the y. m. c. a., each of which is located in the building of the same name, presently to be noticed. besides these, at the what cheer house, and at woodward's gardens, one finds two or three thousand well selected standard volumes, free to guests and visitors. public buildings. federal. post-office.--the first of these to every tourist is, naturally, the government building through which his letters come and go. this is a moderately-sized two-story building of stuccoed brick, running parallel with the west side of battery street, between washington and jackson. one may enter from any street of the three. the ladies' entrance, which is also common, is from washington street. the principal business entrance is on the west front of the building, through a cross street entered at either end from washington or jackson. the office opens daily at 8 a.m., and closes at 6:30 p.m., except sundays, when its only open hour is from 9 to 10 a.m. the great overland mail for new york, by the way of salt lake and omaha, closes every week day at 7:30 a.m., and on saturdays at 3 p.m., n. b. stone, p. m. the custom house is simply the upper floor of the post-office building. entrance on battery, near washington. timothy g. phelps, collector. u. s. branch mint.--the old building still occupied, and likely to be for at least a year, stands on the north side of commercial, near montgomery. office hours from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. visitors received daily from 9 to 12. o. h. la grange, superintendent. the new mint, or what is to be that building, stands on the northwest corner of fifth and mission streets. its ground dimensions are 221½ feet on fifth, by 166½ feet on mission street. the basement is already built of california granite. above the basement, which is 13¾ feet high, the walls are built of blue-gray freestone, from newcastle island in the gulf of georgia, between vancouver's island and the mainland of british columbia. thus, uncle sam is building his new mint of british stone. two stories of 18½ feet each will surmount the high basement. the lower of these is now nearly completed. from the pavement to the crown of the roof will be 70 feet. two chimneys will tower to the height of 150 feet. the u. s. marine hospital stands at the northeast corner of harrison and main streets, upon the northeast slope of rincon hill. this is the old building. the hospital also occupies the former buildings of the deaf and dumb asylum, on the southeast corner of mission and fifteenth streets. city and county buildings. old city hall.--this famous old brick and stucco, two-story, earthquake-cracked, and iron-braced structure, with the adjoining hall of records, stretches along the east side of kearny street from merchant to washington, and extends nearly a third of the block down each of those streets. the police-offices and lock-ups occupy the basement, while the usual district court rooms, with judges' chambers and municipal offices, supervisors' and board of education rooms, fill the upper floors, and clamor for more room. the new city hall thus far exists only on paper. the commissioners have chosen an elaborate plan for a costly edifice, which will far surpass anything on the coast in architectural beauty; but the execution of that plan has hardly yet completed the excavation for the foundation walls. hence it is yet too early to tantalize the tourist with descriptions of a beautiful building not yet visible, except in the architect's drawing, or the lithographic copies. if any tourist is curious to see the _site_, he may find it by going out market street till he reaches what was known as yerba buena park, corner of market and seventh streets. the city hall commissioners adopted the plans and specifications of mr. augustus laver, of new york, and elected him architect; but, at the present rate of progress, it is hardly probable that less than two or three years will witness the completion of the urgently-needed and magnificently-designed new city hall. jail.--on the north side of broadway, between dupont and kearny, one desirous of inspecting our penal institutions may find ample opportunity to study the physiognomy of that class which inhabits them, and learn the crimes which preponderate in the pacific metropolis. sheriff, p. j. white. almshouse.--this asylum occupies one of the healthiest locations in the state, near the ocean house, or san miguel road, about four and one quarter miles southwest of the city hall. m. j. keating, superintendent. industrial school.--this finely-constructed, conveniently-arranged and well-managed reform school, stands on the western slope of the peninsula hills, about seven miles southwest of the city. like the almshouse it has as healthful a location as can be found in the state. it receives only boys, who are regularly taught by competent teachers, and employed in various indoor occupations or out-door work. present number of inmates, two hundred and twelve. the order and discipline of this school well repay a visit. jno. c. pelton, superintendent. engine houses.--in early days, before the establishment of homes, the pioneer firemen seemed to love their machine very much as the sailor loves his ship. they built elegant and costly engine houses, which became to many of them the only homes they ever knew. since the introduction of the improved steam fire engines, and the organization of the paid fire department, the glory of the old volunteer organizations has well nigh departed. but their houses yet remain, some of them converted to other uses, while others still retain much of their earlier attractiveness. eight first-class steamers, of the amoskeag make, weighing from three to four tons each, throwing four hundred gallons a minute, each costing from four to five thousand dollars in gold coin, and manned by twelve men, make up the present paid fire department. at a public trial a week since, new york and philadelphia witnesses voluntarily and unanimously testified that they had never seen machines reach the spot as soon and get a stream upon the flames as quickly, as did the machines of our fire department. this fact may conduce to the sense of security with which the eastern tourist lies down to sleep in his strange bed. for the benefit of any extra nervous gentleman, we may add the universal rule of conduct in regard to midnight alarms of fire among us, is this: when waked by a fire-alarm, place your hand against the nearest wall. if it feels cold, lie still; if moderately warm, order a different room at once; if positively _hot_, leave for another hotel immediately. corporation and society buildings. the pioneer's building.--a finely proportioned building on the corner of gold and montgomery streets, above jackson. this building is not as noteworthy as the society which built and chiefly occupies it. the famous "society of california pioneers" was formed in august, 1850. its constitution declares its object to be: "to cultivate the social virtues of its members; "to collect and preserve information connected with the early settlement of the country; and "to perpetuate the memory of those whose sagacity, energy and love of independence induced them to settle in the wilderness and become the germs of a new state." it includes three classes: 1st. native californians; foreigners living in california before the american conquest; and citizens of the united states who became actual residents here before january 1st, 1849--with the male descendants of these. 2d. citizens of the united states who became actual residents of california before january 1st, 1850, and their male descendants. 3d. honorary members admitted according to the by-laws. the society has enrolled over 1,300 members. its historical library and museum well repay a visit. charles d. carter, president. merchant's exchange.--this building, the commercial headquarters of the mercantile army of the pacific, stands on the south side of california street, between montgomery and sansome. it ranks among the largest and finest architectural ornaments of the city. bank of california.--northwest corner of california and sansome. this elegant stone structure is not remarkable for size; but for broad and deep foundations, slow and strong construction, harmonious proportions, convenient arrangements and admirable finish within and without, it ranks among the finest and most costly business buildings in the union. president, d. o. mills. cashier, william c. ralston. mercantile library building.--north side of bush street, between montgomery and sansome. this is the building for which the great lottery paid. it presents a noble front, a finely finished interior, with library room containing over 30,000 volumes, reading room, magazine room, reference room, chess room, with a large ladies' room of remarkably costly and tasteful furnishing. the hall in the basement, has already been noticed. ogden hoffman, president; alfred stebbins, librarian. mechanics' institute building.--south side of post street, just below kearny. a well-proportioned, substantially built, sensible-looking building, and so far truthfully indicative of the healthful prosperity of the excellent organization which owns and occupies it. a library of nearly 20,000 volumes, including many rare and costly scientific works, a large and well-stocked reading room, a sort of museum, including mineralogical cabinets, mechanical models, scientific apparatus and works of art, with a popular business college, occupy this valuable building. the commodious hall upon the lower floor, has been previously described. mechanics' pavilion.--union square, between geary and post streets on the south and north, and stockton and powell streets on the east and west. one of the largest, if not the largest, wooden buildings now standing in america, covering two and one half acres of ground; originally erected by the mechanics' institute association, for the accommodation of their biennial fairs, and found almost indispensably convenient for all grander gatherings; it has since been retained, and successively occupied by fairs, grand masquerade balls, velocipede schools and skating rinks. the most notable event occurring under its mammoth roof was the grand musical festival or gift concert, in aid of the mercantile library association, given under the lead of madame camilla urso. after the approaching mechanics' fair, to be held this summer, the building is to be removed. masonic temple.--upon the west side of montgomery, at the corner of post; of peculiar and attractive architecture, imposing proportions and elegant finish, it justly ranks among the most prominent buildings of the city. odd fellows' hall.--montgomery street, between pine and california. not particularly imposing from without, but attractive from the unity, strength and benificence of the order which it represents. within are a library of nearly 20,000 standard and popular volumes, a well-supplied reading-room, and a well-managed savings' bank. y. m. c. a.--this quartette of initials has now become so well known throughout the larger cities of the union, that the visitor in any large city is disappointed if he does not find the local habitation of this fast-spreading bond of unity among all good men. here, upon sutter street, just above kearny, he will be agreeably disappointed to discover a large, new, stone-front building, unique in design, and most pleasing in its general effect. within are library, reading-rooms, hall, gymnasium, and several convenient lodging-rooms. chas. goodall, president; h. l. chamberlain, librarian. business buildings and blocks. alta california building--on the south side of california street, between montgomery and kearny. its comparatively great height, as related to its width, give it a somewhat monumental appearance, not inappropriate, however, when we remember that the whole tasteful structure stands as the monument of the enterprise, energy, perseverance and success of the oldest and largest paper published in the state. fred. maccrellish & co., proprietors. bancroft's--south side of market street, between third and fourth. few business buildings upon the continent combine the colossal proportions with the graceful details of this mammoth house of the oldest and largest publishing firm upon the coast. donohoe, kelly & co.'s building--upon the southeast corner of montgomery and sacramento streets, deserves mention among the finest business buildings. harpending's block--on the south side of market street, between first and second; the longest and loftiest business front presented by any single business block in the city. murphy, grant & co's. building--northeast corner of bush and sansome. a large and handsome building, as strong as iron, stone and brick can make it. tobin, dixon & davisson's building--northwest corner of sansome and sutter, can hardly be omitted from the inspection of our finest business houses. treadwell's agricultural warehouse--south side of market street, opposite front. not lofty, but broad; not imposing, but extensive. tucker's--northwest corner of montgomery and sutter. lofty, finely-proportioned, monumental, and substantial; surmounted by a clock-tower, which has become one of the landmarks of the city. the main salesroom within is beautifully frescoed and fitted throughout with extreme elegance and at great cost. the white house--corner of kearny and post streets. an elegant new iron and brick structure, light, airy and ornamental in its general effect. receives its name from its color, which has hitherto been an uncommon one in this city, but is daily becoming less so. occupied chiefly by the leading dry goods firm of j. w. davidson & co. wells, fargo & co's. building--corner of california and montgomery streets. who does not know it? solid granite blocks, dressed in china, brought hither in ships, and piled in stern simplicity upon that central corner to outstand all earthquake shocks, and survive all business wrecks. a pioneer building which has already become far too small for its immense business, but ought never to be taken down until the whole city goes with it. manufactories. kimball car and carriage factory.--corner of bryant and fourth streets. eastern visitors call this the largest establishment of the kind in america. in immense extent, convenient arrangement, and comprehensiveness of scope, it can hardly be surpassed. its latest triumph is the construction of a magnificent palace car, built wholly of california woods, undisguised by paint, carving, gilding, or varnish--the most complete and superb palace on wheels ever built. thirty-five different woods enter into its construction, displaying a variety of structure and a range of harmonious tints hardly imaginable by those who have seen only the poor imitations of feeble art. the car is a triumph of taste and skill, and is worth a half-day's time of any tourist simply to study and enjoy it. it has been proposed that the merchants of this city buy it, and present it to the president of the united states--to _the office_, not the _incumbent_--to be kept at washington, and used as the official car for all presidential tours. a better idea could hardly be suggested. may the motion prevail! the pacific rolling mills stand upon the point of the potrero. they include all the massive machinery of their ponderous business, and turn out heavy castings, forgings, and railroad iron by hundreds of tons daily. the mission woolen mills--folsom street, corner of sixteenth. here are made those wonderful blankets of such marvelous fineness and thickness, which have attracted so much attention, and received even the world's fair premium abroad. foundries and iron works. union iron works.--the oldest and largest in california, employing three hundred and thirty men, and turning out the heaviest and most perfect mining and railroad machinery, locomotives, etc. located on the northeast corner of mission and first streets. h. j. booth & co. risdon iron and locomotive works, southeast corner of howard and beale streets. has all the latest mechanical improvements of the business. can turn out a shaft forty-eight feet long, and weighing thirty tons. it employs two hundred and seventy-five hands. john n. risdon, president. the fulton, miners', and pacific foundries, with the etna and vulcan iron works, are the other leading ones of the coast. shot tower and lead works. corner of howard and first streets. the pioneer and, thus far, the only works upon the coast. the tower is one of the most prominent and sightly objects visible in all the water approaches to the city. sugar refineries. the city has four: the san francisco and pacific, bay, california, and golden gate, turning out twenty thousand tons of sugar annually. ship yards. at north beach and at the potrero are the principal yards. they build mainly river steamers or ferry boats, or smaller ocean craft, rarely constructing anything above three hundred tons. for larger craft it is cheaper to go north, where immense forests of the finest ship-timber run clear down to the ocean beach, and stand asking to be built into ships. glass works. two: one in the city, on the south side of townsend, between third and fourth; and the other, the pacific glass works, on the potrero, at the corner of iowa and mariposa streets. these confine their works chiefly to bottles, telegraph caps, etc. churches. baptist.--this prominent denomination has six church buildings in the city. the first baptist church claims special space from the fact that it was the first protestant house of worship dedicated in california. this was in august, 1849. the present building of stuccoed brick, occupies the original site of the first small, wooden pioneer church--on the north side of washington street, between stockton and dupont. rev. a. r. medbury, pastor. congregational.--this denomination has the honor of having furnished the first settled protestant chaplain in san francisco, rev. t. dwight hunt. he held the rare position of "citizens' chaplain," nov. 1st, 1848, conducting divine worship every sunday in the "public institute," (the school-house) on portsmouth square--the plaza. the citizens unitedly invited him from honolulu, and paid him $2,500 a year. the denomination has four church buildings--named by their order of erection. the first congregational church is on the southwest corner of california and dupont streets. the pastor is rev. dr. stone, formerly of the park street church, boston. episcopal.--this denomination has five church buildings, of which grace church, corner of california and stockton streets, is the oldest and largest. the building is 135 feet long, 62 feet wide and 66 feet high. its great size and sightly location make it one of the prominent buildings in any general view of the city. rev. james s. bush, rector. the four other episcopal church buildings are--trinity, st. john's, church of the advent, and st. luke's. hebrew.--synagogue of the congregation emanu-el, sutter street, between stockton and powell. of the five jewish congregations, this has "the synagogue" par excellence--the one always meant when one speaks of "the jewish synagogue." it is an elegant and costly structure, built of brick, not yet stuccoed, supporting two prominent towers, and finished within in most appropriate and artistic style. total cost, including lot, $185,000, gold coin. methodist.--this popular, powerful and rapidly growing denomination has already erected eleven church buildings in san francisco--more than any other protestant church, except the presbyterians. its newest and most elegant church is the first methodist episcopal church, on the west side of powell, between washington and jackson. this is one of the most elegant and really artistic churches; within and without, any where to be found. rev. dr. cox, pastor. howard street m. e. church.--south side of howard, between second and third. this is the most substantial and valuable building owned by the denomination. value, including lot and parsonage, $100,000. its style is medieval gothic. pastor, rev. l. walker. presbyterian.--this recently united denomination, no longer old and new school, has also eleven church buildings; of these the two most noted are the calvary presbyterian church, corner of geary and powell streets. this church is as capacious and comfortable, even luxurious within, as the most fastidious could desire. its organ is the largest and finest on the coast. rev. j. hemphill, pastor. howard presbyterian church, mission street, near third; lately, rev. dr. scudder's. this building, with a plain and unpretentious exterior, has greater seating capacity than any other protestant church in the city. it is of recent construction and very convenient internal arrangements. temporary pastor, rev. j. k. kendall. first presbyterian church--on the west side of stockton, between washington and clay. this gothic building is one of the largest and finest--but its chief claim to notice here, rests upon the fact that the church which built it, organized may 20th, 1849, under the direction of the rev. albert williams, was the first protestant church organized in san francisco. roman catholic.--st. patrick's church, on the north side of mission, between third and fourth streets. although so new that it is not yet finished, this church is set first, because it is the largest in the state, being one hundred and sixty feet long by eighty feet wide. its spire is the loftiest and most beautifully proportioned in the city, height 240 feet. rev. peter j. grey, pastor. st. mary's cathedral, california street, at the northeast corner of dupont. in age, cost and rank this building is entitled to the first place. it is a noble structure of gothic architecture, which has been carried out in every detail. the front extends seventy-five feet on california street, from which the cathedral runs back one hundred and thirty-one feet on dupont. the tower is at present one hundred and thirty-five feet high, and is to be surmounted by a spire rising sixty-five feet further. the most rev. joseph s. alemany is the archbishop. old mission church, on the southwest corner of sixteenth and dolores streets. this was dedicated oct. 9, 1776, by father junipero serra, the father of the california missions. aside from its age and associations, the building is of little note. it is built of the old adobes, which were simply unburnt bricks dried in the sun, and formed a favorite building material with the early spanish and mexican inhabitants. the old custom-house, on portsmouth square, was built of this material. the roof was covered with semi-cylindrical tiles of burnt clay, laid in alternate rows, the first one having the concave side up, and the next its convex side up. the outside, generally, is very plain, though the front shows some old-fashioned round columns, and a few small bells suspended in square apertures under the projecting roof. the interior is dark, cold and comfortless. rev. thos. cushing, pastor. besides the three churches already named, the catholics have nine others in the city, in addition to five or six chapels and asylums. swedenborgian.--first new jerusalem church. this is a very neat gothic building, on the north side of o'farrell, between mason and taylor streets. rev. john doughty, pastor. a second new jerusalem church, of which rev. joseph worcester is pastor, having yet erected no building, meets in the druids' hall, no. 413 sutter street. unitarian.--first unitarian church. this most beautiful church edifice stands upon the south side of geary street, just below stockton. its front presents, unquestionably, the finest specimen of church architecture in the state, and can hardly be surpassed in america. the interior is tastefully decorated with a colored fresco of extreme beauty, and most artistic harmony of tint. the organ, baptismal font, and the pulpit, perpetuate the unique taste of the lamented pastor, whose loved name the public mind cannot dissociate from the beautiful building, which, always known as "starr king's" church, has become his fitting monument. this is the only church building of this denomination in the city or the state. chinese mission house.--this is a combination church and school-house, new, neat and commodious, fifty-six feet by seventy feet, and three stories high. adjoining school-rooms, readily thrown into one, rooms for the superintendent, rev. mr. gibson and family, and for his assistant, rev. hu sing me, the native preacher, and his family, occupy the various floors. school "keeps" every evening in the week, except saturday and sunday. bible class at half-past ten every sunday morning, and sunday school at seven p.m. the entire property belongs to the methodist church, who maintain it as a most efficient home mission. the mariner's church, northeast corner of sacramento and drumm streets. it is a neat and commodious wooden building, erected in 1867, by contributions from merchants and other citizens of san francisco. rev. j. rowell, pastor. hospitals and asylums. city and county hospital.--stands upon the southwest corner of stockton and francisco streets. french benevolent society.--has one of the finest hospitals of the state, a large and handsome brick building, surrounded with pleasant gardens and ornamented grounds, occupying the whole block on the south side of bryant, between fifth and sixth, making a most agreeable and healthful home for the invalid. others besides french may receive its benefits, by assuming membership and paying its moderate dues. german general benevolent society.--admits only germans. it has over eighteen hundred members. on brannan street, near third, this society has a very large two-story brick building with basement--furnished with every form of bath, and looking out upon fine gardens and shrubbery. protestant orphan asylum.--on the west side of laguna street, between haight and waller. a large and elegant building of brick and stone--one of the ornamental landmarks of that part of the city. it accommodates two hundred and fifty little ones. mrs. ira p. rankin, president; mrs. lucy stewart, matron. roman catholic orphan asylum.--market street, south side, between new montgomery and third. a noble and capacious brick building accommodating three hundred and twenty children, and having a school of five hundred and fifty day scholars attached. the asylum is under the sole management of archbishop alemany and the sisters of charity. san francisco female hospital.--corner of clay street and prospect place. any woman who is sick and poor, has a right to its benefits. it is a genuine charity, regarding neither nativity, religion nor social rank. mrs. m. r. roberts, president; dr. c. t. deane, physician. ladies' protection and relief society.--franklin street, between post and geary. the main object of the society is to furnish a real _home_ for friendless or destitute girls, between three and fourteen years old. boys, under ten and over three, may be received and provided for until furnished with a permanent home in a christian family. it has over two hundred inmates, nearly all girls. miss c. a. harmon, matron. nearly a hundred other public and private benevolent societies attempt to make up, as well as possible, the lack of friends and homes, always so severely felt by strangers or temporary residents in any large city, and especially so in one of as cosmopolitan a character as ours. colleges. besides the larger public schools, which are really the peoples' colleges--the city has sixty-five colleges and private schools. the number of pupils attending them in 1870 was 4,582, against 21,000 in the public schools. city college.--southeast corner of stockton and geary streets. this institution has built and furnished an elegant french gothic building at university mound, some three miles southwest of the city, which it will occupy early in '72. besides the usual studies, this college especially provides the best facilities for obtaining a thorough practical knowledge of chemistry, in all its applications to assaying, mining, medical manufactures and mechanics. rev. dr. veeder, president. heald's business college.--college building, post street, between montgomery and kearny. its design is to educate boys and young men, with a special view to practical business. it is one of the famous thirty-six bryant and stratton business colleges, located in the leading cities of the united states and canada. students, two hundred and fifty. e. p. heald, president. st. ignatius' college.--occupies the noble brick building on the south side of market street, between fourth and fifth. it is largely attended, and is successfully conducted by the jesuit fathers. st. mary's college.--on the old county road to san josé, four and a half miles southwest of the city. building, two hundred and eighty feet front, by fifty feet deep--of excellent proportion and fine appearance. conducted by the christian brothers. b. justin, president. toland medical college.--east side of stockton street, between chestnut and francisco. the building is of brick, capacious, commodious, finely located and admirably adapted to the purpose of its construction. h. h. toland, m. d., president. public school buildings. lincoln.--fifth street--south side, near market. brick structure, four stories high, 141½ feet long, 63½ feet wide; 20 class-rooms 129×34 feet, besides eight wardrobes and teachers' rooms--wide halls, and four broad stairways the whole height, with a large hall in the upper story. it accommodates twelve hundred grammar grade pupils, all boys. in front stands a finely modeled statue of abraham lincoln for whom the building was named. cost, $100,000, gold coin. b. marks, principal. denman.--bush street, north side, corner of taylor. brick stuccoed; length, 98¼ feet; width, 68 feet; height, four stories, including attic rooms. fourteen class-rooms, each 28×34, accommodating eight hundred pupils, all girls. cost, $78,000, gold. this building was named in honor of james denman, one of the pioneer public school teachers of the city--the founder of this school and for many years, as at present, its principal. few cities in the union can show school buildings as elegant, convenient, substantial and costly as these two noble monuments of public appreciation of, and liberality towards, the system which must underlie and sustain our free government if it is to stand at all. tehama.--tehama street, near first. brick, undisguised; 111 feet long, 75 feet deep, three stories high, besides spacious basement play-rooms--has sixteen class-rooms, each 24×31, hall, 41×49, with ample stairings, and convenient teacher's-rooms and ample yards. cost, $28,300, gold. it accommodates one thousand primary pupils of both sexes. mrs. e. a. wood, principal. besides these, the city has several large and fine wooden school-houses of modern structure. of these the most sightly, is the girls' high school, south side of bush street, near stockton--57×92, three stories, ten class-rooms, 27×34, with an assembly hall, 54×55; whose length can be increased to 90 feet, by opening folding doors between it and two adjoining class-rooms. it is the most conveniently arranged, best ventilated, sunniest, most cheerful and healthful school-house in the state. ellis h. holmes, principal. to these the department has recently added, and is now adding, four or five 18 class-room buildings, of wood, each accommodating one thousand pupils, now occupying the old and small school-rooms of early days or hived in unsuitable rented rooms. bancroft's book and stationery establishment. it may appear like exaggeration to say that san francisco contains the largest and most complete general book and stationery, mercantile and manufacturing business in the world. yet, such is the fact. not that the business, by any means, equals that of harpers' and appletons', of new york, hachette of paris, or the stationers of london. but, between these houses and bancroft's, there is no comparison. the character of their trade is totally different. one publishes books, another manufactures paper, and so each is large in one thing, whereas the bancrofts, collecting from the manufacturers of all the world, and manufacturing according to the requirements of their trade, cover under one management the ground occupied by all others combined. in older and larger cities, one house deals in law books alone; another, school books, etc., while this san francisco house--besides a full stock of books in every department of literature, and stationery from the manufacturers of europe and america, paper from the mills of new england, pencils from germany, pen-holders from paris--unite printing, book-binding, lithography, blank-book making, engraving, &c., every thing, in short, comprised in all the business of all the others. the detail is necessarily very great. they buy from a thousand sellers, and sell to many thousand buyers. over one hundred employés, divided into nine departments, each under an experienced manager, ply their vocation like bees in a hive of six rooms, each 37 by 170 feet. to the latest improvements of the finest machinery, driven by steam, apply the highest order of skilled labor, and san francisco can do anything as well and as cheaply as new york, london or paris. the retail department, occupying the first floor, has the most magnificent salesroom on the pacific coast. visitors are warmly welcomed, and strangers politely shown through the premises. private residences. for the convenience of the tourist, who may want to see the homes of our city as well as her public buildings and business blocks, we mention the locality of the following, which are among the finest of our private dwellings: erwin davis, southwest corner of california and powell streets; milton s. latham, folsom street, opposite hawthorne, on rincon hill; d. j. tallant, corner of bush and jones street; richard tobin, corner of california and taylor streets; john parrott, 620 folsom street. by making two trips--first, over california street, and returning by sutter or bush street; second, over rincon hill on folsom street, and returning by harrison, the visitor may see the finest of our private residences. points of observation. telegraph hill.--this notable natural landmark stands at the head, that is, at the north end of montgomery street. the early settlement, the pioneer hamlet from which the present city has grown, was made in the hollow near the southwest foot. civilization has encircled it on the land side, and crept two thirds the way up, while commerce has claimed the water front along its opposite base--but the summit still stands as free as when the priestly fathers first looked thence upon the glorious inland sea, which flashes between it and the sunrise. let us climb it--this way, straight up the montgomery street sidewalk, slowly, please; we have the day before us; exhausted lungs impair one's sight. stop at the corner of each intersecting street, and glance either way, but especially eastward--that is, downward toward the bay. now, "excelsior," again; up these stairs; now along this natural surface--no asphaltum walks or stow foundation pavements up here yet, you see--on, by these houses; turn to the left here; now to the right, follow this winding way; patiently please--that's it; only two or three minutes more--ah! here it is--this is the highest point, where the old observatory stood. sit and breathe a moment; slip on your overcoat, or put that extra shawl about you; it's easy to take cold here, far easier than to rid yourself of it in the city below. for the sake of method in our survey, we may as well begin at the northwest; thence "swing round the circle," through north, east, south and west, and return to the point of starting. looking northwesterly, then, we have first the elevated, undulating plateau, which stretches along the flattened summits of the northernmost spur of the broad peninsular hills, and terminates in the precipitous bluff known as fort point--the southern gate-post of the far-famed golden gate. through this we gaze seaward along the further margin of the strait, where it sends in a surging cove upon the rocky beach, between point diablo and point bonita. the projection of the latter point shuts off the vision, which else might range up the northwesterly trend of the coast, along the ocean-shore of marin county to punta de los reyes, (king's point) which projects southward between bolinas bay and the ocean. between point diablo and lime point, a slight northerly curve, in the shore line makes a shallow cove, from whose edge the vision climbs the successive hills or ridges which fill the ascending space as it roughly rises toward the crowning point of marin county, mount tamalpais, two thousand six hundred and four feet nearer heaven than the beach line whence we set forth. still following round, we look up into richardson's bay; next the southwestern end of raccoon strait, and then angel island. we are now looking north. alcatraz, the rocky island which nature set just there to support a commanding fortress; then, an eye-sweep up over the northern part of san francisco bay to that narrow strait which joins it with san pablo bay; northeast the san pablo shore of contra costa county, and the hills which terminate the mount diablo peninsular range. nearer east, the strangely monotonous hills, whose ridges and gullies look as if plowed out by heavy rains, and rounded by sweeping winds. grassy or earthy, they look, according to the time of year and kind of season. now, almost east, the vision falls. this large island, off in the midst of the bay, is yerba buena, or goat island. it rises three hundred and forty feet above low water mark. nearly in a line over the island appears berkeley, the site of the university of california, of which one large building, already two thirds raised, you may possibly discern. a little further south--that is, to the right, you can plainly see the state asylum for the deaf and dumb and blind. this noble building crowns a gently-sloping eminence just at the margin between the broad and nearly level plain which stretches between it and the bay, and the foothills back of which the contra costa mountains bring up the rear. almost due east lies oakland, the tree-city of the beautiful grove-dotted plain. then clinton, san antonio, brooklyn and alameda, snuggled in together so closely that one can't tell "which is which;" and, as far as the beauty of the view is concerned, it doesn't matter either, for they are all fair to look upon and lovely to behold. the clustering trees shut out by far the larger portion of the houses, so that we might hardly suspect the size and population of the towns, whose scattered roofs show here and there among the trees. we are looking southeasterly now. that creek, whose mouth you see just beyond alameda, leads into san leandro bay; and right over it, nearly hidden by intervening trees, lies the town of the same name. a little further south, and too distant to be plainly seen, is hayward's. that depression in the mountain summits beyond, marks the opening of livermore pass, through which the western pacific railroad finds its way. beyond hayward's, further south, and thence sweeping around to the right, toward the extreme end of the bay, we dimly discern the northern end of the beautiful santa clara valley, where it widens out and flattens down to the bay. we are now looking almost due south. only four miles down, hunter's point shuts off our further view, and compels us to look nearer home. a trifle west of that, and half as far away, the potrero presents its transverse ridge, fast disappearing under the rapidly-growing city, and showing a gap of daylight where the deep cut of the bay view horse railroad was relentlessly dug and blasted through, in its stubborn pursuit of a practicable grade. between the cut and ourselves, the long bridge shuts off the mission bay, and shows where the fast-filling mud-flats will soon crowd back the bay, and make a new water front. still nearer, we have the western slope or ridge of rincon hill, rising gradually to the left, and packed all over with the huddled and mostly wooden houses of the new and hurriedly-built city. along the inner base of the hill, and stretching out westward, lies the old "happy valley." that's just this side of where you see the shot-tower, and runs thence four or five blocks to the right. between that and ourselves, coming over this side of market street, we have the oldest and most densely-built part of the city, relieved here and there--by the occidental hotel, tucker's tower, the merchants' exchange, murphy, grant & co.'s building, and half a dozen others. now let the vision range away southwest, again beginning at the hills and coming in. the bounding hills are bernal heights, west of which fairmount and the adjacent hills merge into the peninsular range, and form a rude amphitheatre, within which nestles the fast-growing southwestern precinct. coming up toward the west, the twin summits of the mission peaks slant the vision up against the sky, or plunge it into the fleecy billows of in-rolling ocean fog, which seldom survives the warmer air of the inner basin long enough to roll far down their western slope. between them and us lies the mission dolores, grouped around its century-old church. northward of the twin-peaks the hills rise in "promiscuous prominence." a little south of west, that irregularly conical hill, surmounted by a gigantic solitary cross, is the famous "lone mountain," about whose lower slopes, and around whose base are grouped so many "cities of the dead." thence northerly, to the point whence our survey began, little of note arrests the sight, more than the broad reach of lower hills and sandy dunes, which patiently wait the coming occupation of the westward-growing city. although the point beneath our feet is but three hundred feet high, the panoramic view is wider and freer than from any other, even the highest hilltop of the city. russian hill.--about one mile west-southwest from telegraph hill, on vallejo street, between taylor and jones street, russian hill rises nearly sixty feet higher, but offers little additional prospect. it was formerly surmounted by a sort of cork-screw observatory, a skeleton structure of open frame-work, surrounded by a spiral stairway, whose summit afforded the loftiest lookout within the city limits. west-northwest of this hill, and about three-quarters of a mile from its summit, lies the small lagoon, near which the founders of the early mission first located. clay street hill.--nearly south of russian hill, and about three furlongs from it, rises this hill, the highest within the city limits. it is named from the street which runs just south of its summit, or will do so when cut through. the hill is 376 feet high, and is a little over a mile southwest of telegraph hill. the view from its summit differs only in having moved the point of sight a mile southwest, and raised it about 80 feet. california street hill.--this, too, takes its name from that of the neighboring street. it is hardly proper to call it a separate hill as it is but two blocks south of clay street hill, from which only a slight hollow originally separated it. rincon hill.--three quarters of a mile southwest of the city hall. its highest point reaches hardly a hundred feet above the bay level. the whole hill originally offered such sightly locations for building that it is covered on nearly all sides, and crowded upon its very height, by some of the most comfortable and home-like residences in the entire city. this fact makes it almost impossible to get an unobstructed view, in all directions, from any part of it. it was a favorite, and almost an aristocratic site for residences, until the heartless greed for gain procured legal authority to excavate the famous "second street cut;" 75 feet deep, which needlessly ruined the beauty of the hill. lone mountain.--this singularly symmetrical hill stands two and one-half miles west of the city hall, at the head of bush street. it is 284½ feet high. from its summit rises a solitary cross which, especially near sunset, stands forth against the western sky with peculiar, beautiful effect. the view hence is full of inspiration and suggestion. none have caught more of these, or embodied them in finer words than bret harte, in his favorite lines: as i stand by the cross on the lone mountain crest, looking over the ultimate sea, in the gloom of the mountain a ship lies at rest, and one sails away from the lea; one spreads its white wings on a far-reaching track, with pennant and sheet flowing free, one hides in the shadow with sails laid aback- the ship that is waiting for me! but lo, in the distance the clouds break away, the gate's glowing portal i see, and i hear, from the out-going ship in the bay, the song of the sailors in glee; so i think of the luminous foot-prints that bore the comfort o'er dark galilee, and wait for the signal to go to the shore; to the ship that is waiting for me. mission peaks.--the double peaks already mentioned in our panoramic eye-sweep from telegraph hill, lying three miles southwest of it, sometimes called the twin peaks. they are five hundred and ten feet high, and stand four miles southwest of the city hall. they are the loftiest points in the county; either summit commands a view which well repays the time and labor expended in gaining it. bernal heights.--this name designates a short range of hills nearly five miles west-southwest of the city hall. starting near the bay, they run transversely, that is, westerly, for about one mile across the peninsula. their highest point is two hundred and ninety-five feet above the bay. the highest point of the potrero is three hundred and twenty-six feet above low tide, and the san miguel hills, near the southerly line of the county, reach the height of about four hundred feet. the pacific heights, near alta plaza, a mile and a half west of the city hall, are three hundred and seventy-five feet high. these are all the natural elevations of note within the city and county. the best artificial outlooks may be had from the roof of the houses standing on or near the summits of those hills which rise within the settled portion. the roof of bancroft's building, the cupola of the grand hotel, the u. s. military observatory, on the southwest corner of third and market streets, and the shot tower, if you can persuade mayor selby to let you up, all afford extensive and beautiful prospects. having thus told the tourist all we know about the most feasible and temperate methods of "getting high," we leave him to his own direction, only adding that if he isn't satisfied with our efforts in his behalf, he'd better go "up in a balloon," and view our city as the germans did paris. how to get about. the universal, inexpensive, always-ready and democratic way is by the ever-present horse cars. seven different companies have laid about fifty miles of rail in and about the city, and carry one either directly to or within a very short distance of any desired point. lines, routes and colors.--the omnibus and north beach and mission r. r. companies run yellow cars through third and fourth, sansome, montgomery and kearney, the central blocks of stockton, and the northern ends of powell and mason. they also run red cars from the centre of the city to the southwestern limits, through howard and folsom streets. the central r. r. co. runs red cars from the steamboat landings along the city front, through jackson, sansome, bush, and other leading streets to lone mountain. their cars are commonly called the lone mountain cars. the front street and ocean r. r. co. runs green cars from the steamboat landings at the foot of broadway, up that street, along battery, market, sutter and polk streets, by spring valley to the presidio, whence busses connect for fort point. a branch of this road runs through larkin street across market through ninth to mission; thus connecting the western with the southwestern suburbs. within the year this company has also constructed and put into operation another branch, carrying one to laurel hill cemetery and lone mountain. the market street r. r., the pioneer, runs blue cars from the junction of montgomery and market street, opposite the grand hotel, through market by the san josé depot, and out valencia to twenty-sixth. from the junction of ninth and larkin street with market, it sends a branch out through hayes valley to hayes valley pavilion. the city r. r.--lately built, and newly stocked, runs from the west front of grand hotel, at the junction of market and new montgomery, along the latter to mission, thence out mission to twenty-sixth, passing directly by the entrance to woodward's gardens, and within one block of the san josé depot. the potrero and bay view r. r.--connecting with the north beach and mission r. r., at the south end of fourth street, runs thence across the long bridge over mission bay--through the potrero deep cut, over the islais creek bridge, through south san francisco to the bay view race track terminus, within half a mile of hunter's point and the dry dock. times, fares, etc.--commencing at about 6 p.m., in summer earlier, the cars run at various intervals of from three to seven minutes until 11 and 12 o'clock p.m., and on the city r. r., till 1.30 the next morning. nearly all the roads sell tickets, having four coupons attached, for twenty-five cents each. every coupon is good for one fare from one end of the city to the other, and the coupon tickets of one company are received by every other. for single fares, paid without coupons, they usually charge ten cents. nearly a year ago the city r. r. started the half-dime fare, asking but five cents for a single ride, and the market street r. r. has also adopted it. "children occupying seats, full fare." several of the companies issue transfer checks entitling the passenger to continue his ride upon any intersecting line without extra charge. hacks and coaches.--for the benefit of those who have occasion to engage any of the above, for the transient service of any excursion lying outside of the regular routes, or beyond the legal limits within which the fixed fare obtains, we subjoin the following legal regulations also contained in the order and section already quoted on a previous page: "for a hackney carriage, drawn by more than one horse, for four or less persons, when engaged by the hour, to be computed for the time occupied in going and returning, including detention, $3 for the first hour, and $2 for each subsequent hour. "for a hackney carriage, drawn by one horse, for two persons, when engaged by the hour, to be occupied in going and returning, including detentions, $1 50 for the first hour, and $1 for each subsequent hour." it is hardly necessary to remark, yet it may prevent misunderstanding to add, that the above rates pay for the service of the _whole_ carriage, and may be equitably divided among the occupants as they agree. livery service.--the livery stables of the city are numerous, and well-stocked with animals of blood and speed, and every form of two or four-wheeled vehicles from the substantial, three-seated thorough-braced wagon to the elegant or fancy single buggy or sulky. the usual rates, at all first class stables, are five dollars a day, or a drive, for a single team, and ten dollars for a double one. for a very short trip, and a very short time, they frequently abate something, and when a team is engaged for several days or weeks at once, commonly make the rate lower. for saddle horses the price is usually one half that of a single team, that is $2 50 for a day or drive--subject to similar reductions as above. on foot.--if you have the nerve and muscle of a man, and are not sadly out of training, by all means walk through or about the city and around its suburbs. in several places, as, in climbing telegraph or any other hill, you will have to walk, and then you can. even our lady visitors might profitably emulate the pedestrian performances of their english sisters. provide good easy, wide-bottomed, low-heeled walking-shoes, boots or gaiters, and take the beautiful, windless and dustless morning hours for it and, unless your taste is fashionably perverted or your physical energy hopelessly exhausted, you will find it most delightful. among the scottish highlands, or in the swiss alps, you would certainly do it, endure it, enjoy it, and subsequently boast of it; why not try it here? suburbs and vicinity. we suppose the visitor to have fairly rested--to have walked about a little through the more central portion; to have somewhat studied the general plan of the city, in view of the larger or shorter time which he has to spend in the city, to have made up his mind how much he will see, and what it shall be. by way of helping his planning and sight-seeing, we now catalogue and briefly remark upon the more notable points, taken in regular order from the most central starting point. we offer the following pages as helpful suggestions to those who cannot avail themselves of the personal guidance of some resident friend, who can constantly accompany them to direct their route, and verbally explain the details which these printed pages attempt. if one has not time, or does not wish to see anything here set down, he can easily omit it, and from the remainder select whatever he may chose, transposing, combining, modifying and adapting according to his own good pleasure. general circuit of the city. commencing at the foot of market street, thence southward, along or over the water front, continuing around the entire city and returning to the point of starting. also mentioning more distant points visible to the spectator looking beyond the suburbs: the lumber yards, wharves and merchant fleet, first attract our notice. millions of feet of boards, plank and timber from the northern coast of this state and from oregon, ranged in immense piles on broad and deep piers--alongside of which the schooners, brigs and barks of the lumber fleet are constantly discharging. thence along stewart or east street, the latter being nearer the water, by large lumber-yards, boat-shops, blacksmithing and ship-chandling establishments, we reach the california and oregon s. s. co's wharves and slips. the folsom street cars run within five short blocks; nearer than any others. black diamond coal company's pier.--barges, sheds and piles of coal, straight from the bowels of mount diablo, corner spear and harrison streets, p. b. cornwall, agent. rincon point, foot of harrison street. the wharves and filling have quite obliterated the old shore line, which originally turning a short corner here, received the name "rincon," which, in spanish, means simply a corner. u. s. marine hospital, northwest corner of harrison and spear. p. m. s. s. co.'s piers, docks, sheds and slips. waterfront, foot of brannan and townsend streets. piers having a total front of 1200 feet, shed 600 feet long by 250 wide. steamships over five thousand tons register and docks built especially for them. capt. w. b. cox, superintendent. gas works, corner of king and second. the other works of the same company, the san francisco gas co., are on howard street, from first to beale. c. p. r. r. co.'s freight pier, depot and boat. foot of second street. mission bay. foot of second and third streets. the broad cove lying between south street and potrero; now fast filling in, especially beyond, that is, south of the long bridge. mission rock.--off the foot of third street. has a shanty on it. used for fishing. u. s. ship anchorage.--between foot of third and the mission rock, and within a quarter-mile radius of the latter. u. s. revenue cutters and coast survey vessels, chiefly occupy it. steamboat reserves.--in the docks between third and fourth and the adjacent ones along the south side of the bridge. long bridge.--from the foot of fourth street, across mission bay to potrero--one mile. will become kentucky street, when the filling-in makes a street of what is now a bridge. yacht club building.--east side of long bridge, one third across. yachts at moorings near. potrero.--the point at the south end of long bridge. spanish for pasture ground. originally a rocky ridge. fast disappearing under houses. glass works.--pacific glass works, corner iowa and mariposa streets, four blocks west of bridge. pacific rolling mill.--potrero point, water front, east of bridge. deep cut, is really kentucky street, brought down somewhere near the future grade, by cutting through the solid rock, to an average depth of 75 feet for nearly a fifth of a mile. rope walk runs under kentucky street, near the north end of the islais creek bridge, which is the same street continued across islais creek, now a solidly planked bridge, seven eighths of a mile long. italian fishing fleet and flakes, on the right of the bridge, along the cove-beach just beyond the rope-walk. their mongolian competitors have their boats and beach a little further south. south san francisco is the rising land or ridge south of islais creek. it is a pleasant suburb, rapidly growing. catholic orphan asylum, that large, new wooden building fronting on connecticut street, nine blocks west of the bridge. hunter's point is the east end of south san francisco, a rocky point in which the dry dock, dug out of the solid rock, four hundred and twenty-one feet long, one hundred and twenty feet wide at the top, and sixty feet wide at the bottom, which is twenty-two feet below mean high water. with the floating dock, near by, it cost two millions of dollars. bay view race track, near railroad avenue, a mile southwest of islais bridge. one mile around; broad, smooth and hard. bay view house at north margin, near west end. visitacion point and valley, three quarters of a mile beyond the race course; worth driving out to see, if you have plenty of time. san bruno road unites with this railroad avenue about half a mile beyond the race course; brings one back near new butchertown, corner of islais creek canal and kentucky street. drive back this old san bruno road, until you come to twenty-sixth street; along that to mission; down mission to seventeenth, out which you may drive until you find your way winding and climbing up and over the east slopes of the peninsular hills along the ocean house road, a broad, hard track, leading over the hills to the house which names it. opposite twenty-fourth street is the toll gate, where you pay twelve and a half, or twenty-five cents, according to your team. a mile beyond, a side gate, free, admits you to a carriage-way through the fields, leading down, three quarters of a mile, to lake honda, the huge double-reservoir of sloping-sided masonry, covered with cement, and holding thirty-five million gallons. this well merits a visit. the city almshouse stands on the hill, half a mile south of the lake. the small-pox hospital is the small building standing alone on the hill, a third of a mile north of the almshouse. returning to, and resuming the main road, a mile southwesterly and then westerly, brings us to the ocean race course, securely enclosed, and having the usual circuit and surface. opposite this, and half a mile south lies lake merced, three quarters of a mile long by a fifth of a mile wide. that part of it nearer to, and parallel with the road, is a smaller, nearly separate lake called simply "the lagoon." ocean house, on a slight sandy knoll, half a mile northwest of lake merced. pacific beach.--this is the sandy shore of the "ultimate sea," stretching almost exactly north two miles to the base of the cliff, up which a well-built road carries us a score of rods northwesterly to the cliff house, the grand terminus, or at least way-station of all ocean drives. its broad, covered piazza, well-furnished with easy chairs and good marine glasses, has been for years the popular observatory whence fashion languidly patronizes the pacific, or gazes with momentary interest upon the seal rocks--three hundred feet from the shore, and dotted with lubberly seals, clumsily climbing upon the lower rocks, or lazily sunning themselves above. farallones--twenty-five miles seaward from the cliff house--seven sharp-pointed islets break the monotony of the western horizon. the highest of these rises three hundred and forty feet, and has a large lighthouse of the first-class, with the finest fresnel light on the coast. point lobes, a precipitous coast bluff, a third of a mile north of the cliff house, chiefly noted as the site of the signal station; provided with a fine glass and the usual outfit of a marine observatory. thence along the beach, or the brow of the bluff, if you like climbing, by the helmet rock, whose shape hardly appears from the land, around the curve of the shore, whose general direction here is northeast, a full mile, to fort point, where stands a doubly-strengthened and heavily-mounted fort, yet unnamed, whose chief interest founds upon its general resemblance to the famous fort sumter. lighthouse.--the northwest angle of the fort supports a substantial tower, showing a fixed white light. from the walls of the fort, or better still, from the lighthouse balcony, we look upon and across the golden gate, the connecting strait between the pacific ocean and san francisco bay. it is between three and four miles long, from one to two miles wide, and over four hundred feet deep. lime point, the northern inside gate-post--the southeastern extremity of marin county. point bonita.--the outer or oceanward point of the northern shore, nearly two miles west of the fort, crowned with a lighthouse. mountain lake--one mile south of the fort, and sending a little rivulet called lobos creek westward into the pacific, which it helps to replenish. presidio--spanish for garrison or barracks. this is nearly a mile southeast of the fort, as we return toward the city. its main features are the extensive barracks, accommodating several hundred u. s. soldiers, who make this their point of arrival and departure in going to or coming from the different stations to which they may be ordered. forming the parallelogram front is the parade ground, a broad, open field, gently falling toward the bay, surrounded by the officers' quarters or the barracks, and dotted with batteries here and there. black point.--the water front at the foot of franklin and gough streets. pioneer woolen mills--corner of polk and reade streets. office, 115 battery street. north beach--from the foot of powell street west to black point. angel island, three and a half miles north of black point, across the bay. alcatraces island--a mile and a half north of north beach, off in the bay, heavily fortified, commanding the golden gate. north point--water front, foot of kearny street, corner of bay street. sea wall--water front from the foot of union street, southward; a sloping bulkhead of rubble, faced with heavier rock, costing $240 a linear foot, and a mile and a half long. ferries.--alameda--corner of davis and pacific street. city front cars. oakland--same dock, next slip south. city front cars. saucelito--meiggs' wharf, foot of powell street. north beach cars. san quentin--davis street, near vallejo. city front or sutter street cars. vallejo--corner of front and vallejo. city front or sutter street cars. how to see san francisco and its surroundings. brief trips, or short excursions, requiring but a few hours each. short skeleton tours in and about the suburbs, suggesting the most interesting points, with the walks, rides, drives or sails by which one may reach them--the time required and the best hours of the day, the amount of walking necessary, with the conveniences and cost. in and about the city. i. walk up montgomery street to telegraph hill. if you don't feel like climbing clear to the top, follow the foot-path which winds around about two thirds up its east and northeast slopes. if you go to the top you can go down into--or if you take the lower path you will come round into, lombard street. walk down that to powell; turn to your right and follow powell north to the water and meiggs' wharf, down the wharf if you want the bay breeze, and the bay sights from a lower level; come back--take the south park cars; ride up powell by washington square, up stockton, down washington--get out at the upper corner of the plaza, walk diagonally across, notice the old city hall on your left, stroll up kearny to california or bush, down which you descend one block to montgomery. ii. chinese quarters.--sacramento street, from kearny to dupont, along dupont to pacific, down pacific to stockton, to jackson, down jackson to kearny; cast your eyes down the little alleyways and courts which cut up the blocks along these streets. look at these signs! "hop yik, wo ki, tin yuk, hop wo, chung sun, cheung kuong, hang ki, yang kee, shang tong, shun wo," that last wouldn't be a bad one to go over the door of "civilized" rum-hole. "wing on tsiang, wung wo shang, kwong on cheang," and scores of others. most are personal names, some are business mottoes. they are generally phonographic, that is, you pronounce them according to their spelling. here and there one suggests fun. for instance, "man li." well, why not a chinaman as well as a white man? has the superior race the monopoly of lying? that sign is certainly creditable to the chinese female; it says man li; not _woman_ lie. not far thence a very appropriate successor finishes the logical sequence, "hung hi." certainly, why not? that's what ought to be done to any merchant who will lie. any man li, should be "hung hi." these celestials certainly have no bad idea of the eternal fitness of things. what would happen to our melican merchants if that rule were rigidly applied? it would'nt be much trouble to take the next census. this is the out-door glance by daylight. if you want a more thorough exploration by day or by night, call on special officer duffield, (george w.) at 1,107 montgomery street, who knows their haunts and ways, and can show you all you'll care to see. his long experience among them has also acquainted them with him to such a degree, that they allow him to enter and pass through their houses and rooms whence another might be shut out. in fact, he is their special officer, paid by the chinese merchants to guard their property, and is emphatically _the_ man to have for an escort. he can take you into their gambling saloons, into their pigeon-hole lodging houses where rag-pickers, beggars and thieves fill the air with opium smoke, then shove themselves, feet foremost, into a square box of a pigeon-hole, more like a coffin than a couch. he can guide you into crooked, narrow, labyrinthine passages through which you can just squeeze, and which you could never find nor enter without guidance; into inner courts, around which, and in the midst of which, stand old rickety, tumble-down, vermin-haunted hives of wooden tenements which rise through three or four stories, all alive with the swarming lazzaroni, packed into the smallest and dirtiest of rooms, and huddled into every dark and filthy corner. these are the lowest and worst of their race; the _infernal_ celestials, among whom the officer will not take a woman at all, and where it would not be safe for any man to attempt entrance alone. the approaches are so ingeniously constructed and so artfully disguised, and the passages wind among each other so intricately, and intersect each other so perplexingly, that not one in a thousand could ever find the beginning, and hardly one in ten thousand could discover the end. "for _ways_ that are _dark_, and for _tricks_ that are _vain_, the heathen chinee _is_ peculiar; which the same i would rise to explain." the stranger must not conclude, however, that such as these make up the bulk of the chinese who come to us. on the contrary, these are the lowest and vilest, the dregs and settlings of their social system; no more fit to be taken as samples of their nation than the low, whisky-drinking, shillaly-swinging, skull-cracking, vote-repeating irish, who now govern new york, are to be taken as fair types of the "finest pisantry undher the sun," or considered as a representative of the educated irishman, than whom a warmer-hearted, freer-handed, more courteous-mannered gentleman one can hardly meet in a thousand miles. so the middle classes of the chinese are cleanly, sober, industrious and honest, while their leading merchants, of whom we have several fine representatives in the city, are models of business integrity and social courtesy. enter one of their establishments, with proper introduction, and you shall encounter the most perfect politeness throughout the interview, and carry away the impression that you were never more heartily welcomed and generously entertained, according to their custom, of course, by _any_ strangers, in your life. and one very notable thing should also be said of their street deportment; you may walk through their quarter every day and night for a month, and not see a single drunken man of their own race. if you encounter one at all, he is likely to belong to the "superior race." your survey of the chinese quarter would be incomplete without a visit to their temples or joss houses. one of these stands off pine, just above kearny. they are also used as hospitals. should you wish any souvenir in the shape of their peculiarly ingenious manufacture, you may find them at the chinese or japanese bazaars. iii. third street.--five and a half blocks to south park; thence three blocks to the water; along channel street to long bridge. here we may take the bay view cars, ride across the mission bay, visit the rolling mills, or keep on through the deep cut, over islais creek bridge, through south san francisco, to bay view track, whence 'busses carry us to hunter's point and the dry dock. best time, morning, unless some ship is going into dock on the high tide. fare in 'bus, twenty-five cents each. iv.--water front--south of market.--walk along east or stewart st., by u. s. marine hospital, to p. m. s. s. co.'s ships and docks and c. p. r. r. freight piers and depot. thus far no cars. at foot of brannan take cars, ride up that to third, down third, by south park, to howard--along howard to second, along second to market again. or you can walk from the water up second to market again. or you can walk from the water up second through the cut to harrison, climb the bridge-stairs, walk down harrison to first or fremont, turn left, and come back by the shot tower, foundries, and factories to market. v.--water front--north of market.--no cars here. stroll northerly by the corners of the different streets, along the heads of the different piers, among the grain and produce boats, river steamer docks and ferry slips, around to north point, with its bonded warehouses, iron clippers, and sea wall, thence back sansome to broadway, whence cars take you again to the centre. vi.--southwestern suburbs.--from corner west front of grand hotel, take city cars out mission, by fine new church, new mint, to woodward's gardens; thence to sixteenth; up that three blocks, westerly, to dolores street, where stands the old mission church, the site of the first permanent settlement of san francisco; out dolores; south two blocks, to jewish cemeteries; back by same way to sixteenth; down that to mission woolen mills; thence home by folsom street or howard street cars, either of which brings you to market street. vii.--western suburbs and beyond.--from montgomery up sutter, by cars, or up bush by feet or wheels. either street carries you westerly to laurel hill, in which elegant monuments and mausoleums merit more than passing notice; thence east three blocks to lone mountain and the cemeteries grouped about its base, and upon its lower slopes--the odd fellows', west; the masonic, south, and the calvary north and east. out the cliff house road--you'll need horse probably, or can take the 'bus for 25 cents each way--by the race track or driving park, to the cliff house; look at the seal rocks, seals, ocean and farallones; thence south along pacific beach to ocean house, whence in by ocean road or the new central road by lake peralta and lake honda. the old ocean road brings you back through the mission; the new one, in by lone mountain again. viii.--northwestern suburbs and beyond.--up geary, post or sutter to van ness avenue; thence twelve blocks north through spring valley, by cars from broadway west to harbor view, presidio and fort point. returning from the presidio, keep towards the bay; come around by black point, whence, skirting the water-front through five or six rough blocks, you reach the foot of mason or powell street, and find other cars waiting to bring you home. the routes above suggested, are by no means exhaustive, but will take one to or near the most noted points. if the tourist can have the personal guidance and escort of some well-posted friend, so much the better. in the absence of such friend, or even to accompany him, we respectfully submit our little pocket substitute. excursion routes. under this head we suggest different excursions to and through the most noted localities within a limited radius. we have arranged them in the order of their neighborhood to each other, so that one may pass from the end of one to the beginning of the next without the necessity of returning to san francisco more than once or twice before completing them all. i. the bay trip. we suppose you tired of land travel, with its accompanying jar and dust, and willing to spend a half day in a smooth-sailing steamer on the beautiful bay. go to no. 703 market street, only nine doors east of bancroft's, to the office of gen. ord, commanding the department of california. he can give you a pass, ordering, the captain of the mcpherson, the lively little government propeller, which daily makes the rounds of the military posts on all the chief islands in the harbor, to take you to any you may wish to visit, or all, if you desire. no other boat makes these trips. this one goes the rounds twice a day. unless particularly fond of high wind, and short, choppy, sea-sicky waves, you'd better go in the morning. the steamer leaves jackson street pier every morning at eight, and every afternoon at three. it takes you first, to alcatraz, or alcatraces, as the government spells it over the fortress gate. the first is the singular, and the second the plural, form of a spanish word meaning a pelican. the island lies a mile and a quarter north of san francisco, and two and one half miles east of the golden gate, whose entrance it commands. it is one third of a mile long, one tenth of a mile wide, rises a hundred and forty feet above low tide; a rudely elongated oval in shape, contains about thirty acres, composed mainly of solid rock; is heavily fortified on all sides and crowned by a strong fortress on the top. perfect belts of batteries surround the island, mounting some of the heaviest guns yet made in america. it is the key to the fortifications of the harbor. the island affords no fresh water. all which is used there is carried thither from the main land or caught in cisterns during the rainy season. on the highest point stands a lighthouse of the third order, whose light can be seen, on a clear night, twelve miles at sea, outside the golden gate. the southeast point of the island has a heavy fog-bell, which strikes four times a minute through all dense fogs. if you wish to land and examine the fortress and batteries, you can do so, and stay until the boat returns, usually half or three quarters of an hour, or remain till its afternoon trip, five or six hours later. from alcatraz, the boat goes a mile and a half to angel island, which lies three miles north of san francisco, and is the largest and most valuable island in the bay. it is a mile and one third long, three quarters of a mile wide, and seven hundred and seventy-one feet high. it contains about six hundred acres of excellent land, watered by natural springs. on the east side are quarries of blue and brown sand-stone, while good brick-clay is found elsewhere. three fixed batteries, mounting large and heavy guns, and connected by a military road encircling the island, have been built. the officers' quarters, barracks, and parade ground, are in a shallow, gently-sloping valley, near the landing on the west side. returning, we touch at alcatraz and thence steam round to yerba buena, or goat island, two miles east of san francisco, and two and a half from the oakland shore, from which the long railroad pier is heading straight for it, with the evident intention of bridging the entire distance at an early day. the island contains little over half a square mile, principally covered with chapparal, which is here a thicket of low, evergreen oaks, dwarfed by the salt air and the high winds. the government also owns and occupies this island--barracks, shops, and garrison. the name goat island was given from the fact that many vessels coming to this port in early times, from southern ports where goats were cheap, used to bring them for fresh meat on the passage. in the event of a short voyage, a few goats survived, and upon arrival here were turned loose upon this island, as it lay near the anchorage, and provided a place from which the goats could not escape. these veteran survivors of the voyage "round the horn," presently increased to such numbers as to originate the name "goat island," which has, to a considerable degree, supplanted the earlier and more significant name yerba buena. this latter name, having been lifted from the city, ought at least to be allowed to fall and rest upon the island, in perpetuation of those "early days," whose landmarks are fast failing and fading into forgetfulness. now return with the boat to the pier, exchange the pure bay-breeze for dust-laden city airs, and you have completed your bay trip. ii. the oakland trip. oakland lies seven miles east of san francisco. at least that is the distance from centre to centre; between the nearest margins the measure would be hardly five miles. a dozen times a day the ferry-boat takes one over; fare, 25 cents. get out at broadway street, turn to your left, walk four or five blocks, notice the comfortable, roomy appearance of the city. two blocks up, observe that neat church on the left, set well back from the street and surrounded by ample grounds and pleasant gardens. that's rev. dr. mooar's congregational church. a block or two beyond, look up the broad street to the right, and you see the buildings and grounds now occupied by the state university of california, pending the erection of ampler accommodations on the university site at berkeley, five miles north. take the horse cars if you like, and ride out north along the "telegraph road." noble residences and beautiful grounds line both sides of the way. a mile out, that large, new, wooden building, crowning the summit of a moderate hill, accommodates mcclure's academy, wherein the military drill reinforces and enlivens the other usual studies of a first-class academy. a third of a mile further, upon the same side appears the large and finely-proportioned pacific female college, lately purchased by the pacific theological seminary. still north two miles further, brings us to or in front of the deaf, dumb and blind asylum, beautifully located on the top of a little rise, and commanding a fine view of the golden gate, the bay, san francisco, and its surroundings. the style of the building is a modified gothic. it is built of a fine-grained, bluish granite, from a neighboring quarry. it has a length of one hundred and ninety-two feet front, one hundred and forty-eight feet depth, sixty-two feet height up the three stories and a half to the gable, and one hundred and forty-five feet to the top of the tower. within, the school-rooms, chapel, halls, dormitories, and bath-rooms, are models of convenient arrangement. principal, prof. wilkinson. another mile and we cross a ravine, bear away to the left, and find ourselves on the grounds of the state university of which only the mining and agricultural college building has begun to take form. the site is the finest imaginable: facing the golden gate, the bay and its islands, and the "golden city" beyond. continuing west from the university site, we may go down to the san pablo road and return to oakland by a different route. approaching the centre we may note the new city hall, delight ourselves with glances down the broad and "tree-ful" streets. arrived at the market street station we take the cars south, cross the san antonio creek, through brooklyn to san leandro, where we may get out and take another train to hayward's, six miles southeasterly from san leandro. this is a new, pleasantly-situated and rapidly-growing town, the shipping point for a large agricultural region around. here see the grain sheds, run out to the brighton cattle market, the largest in the state, after which you can take stage six miles to alvarado, and there inspect the salt works, but, more especially, the beet sugar works, the first erected and operated in california, and regarded as the pioneer of an extensive and valuable industry. from alvarado you can keep on, by stage, nine miles to the warm springs, or you can reach these by driving to niles, or decoto, and thence taking the cars of the san josé road. these springs are about two miles south of the old mission san josé, in the midst of a pleasant grove of oak and other trees, near the agua caliente (hot water) creek. the waters contain lime, sulphur, magnesia, and iron, in various combinations. summer guests speak highly of the neighboring hotel. from the springs return to the railroad, and riding eleven miles, enter on iv. the san josé trip, which begins with san josé. the county seat of santa clara county; in population the fourth city of the state, in character of population one of the first, and in beautiful surroundings the gem city. it has a fine situation, in the midst of a beautiful valley, and a climate so healthy that many people affected with lung complaints go thither to live, as a means of cure. hundreds from san francisco and the intermediate cities, go on excursions to san josé and vicinity every summer. from whatever direction we approach san josé, the first object to meet the eye is the lofty dome of the court house. next to the state capitol at sacramento, this is the finest building in the state. it stands on the west side of first street, fronting st. james square. its architecture is roman corinthian; its dimensions, one hundred feet front, one hundred and forty feet depth; height, fifty-six feet to cornice; to top of dome, one hundred and fifteen feet. the building is divided into two lofty stories, containing the principal court room, sixty-five feet long, forty-eight feet wide and thirty-eight feet high, with twenty large and elegant rooms for county officials. the view from the dome is alone worth going to san josé to enjoy. whatever else you may omit, in and about the city, do _not_ omit this. the state normal school building. next to the court house, this is the chief object of interest. it occupies the centre of washington square, faces west; architecture, corinthian; length, two hundred and eighty-four feet; depth, one hundred and sixty feet; and height to top of cornice, seventy feet; to top of tower, one hundred and fifty-two feet; number of stories, four, including basement and mansard roof. the normal hall is ninety-one feet long, sixty-six feet wide, and forty feet high, accommodating nine hundred. auzerais house. among the finest buildings in the city, and the best hotel south of san francisco, is the auzerais house. for first-class hotel accommodations in all variety, for cordial welcome and courteous service, stop here, and you will not be disappointed; especially when restfully reclining in the charming park and garden attached to the house. rates, usual first-class; from $3.00 single day, to $20.00, or even $15.00, a week, with lower rates for longer times. new york exchange hotel. corner of first and st. john's streets, ranking next to the auzerais, affords excellent rooms, with good board and attentive service, for from $2.00 a day to $12.00 a week. if you want to ride through the surrounding valley, as you certainly will, after looking from the court-house dome, go to church & wallace, no. 386 first street, who will have a capital team waiting for you at the station if you merely drop them a slight hint by telegraph. besides the public buildings already named, fine churches, school buildings, business blocks, private residences and beautiful gardens well repay a stroll through this queen city of a lovely valley. new almaden. from san josé, take one of church & wallace's teams, and drive thirteen miles southerly to the celebrated quicksilver mine, named for the famous old almaden mine, in spain, with the syllable, "new," prefixed by way of distinction. this mine is over five hundred feet deep, and employs nearly five hundred men. for permission to enter, apply to j. b. randol, esq., manager, residing at new almaden. if you prefer to go out by public conveyance, a stage will take you over any afternoon at 2.30 for $1.50. drive back to san josé: thence, by steam car, horse car or private team, go over three miles north to santa clara, a pleasant, quiet town, chiefly noted for the santa clara college (jesuit), which occupies the site of the old mission, which was really the germ of the town; and the university of the pacific (methodist). saratoga, _springs_, of course, ten miles southwest of san josé, from which daily stage carries one over for $1.50. these springs are called the congress springs, from the resemblance of their water to that of the original and famous springs of that name at the new york saratoga. they are three shallow springs, excavated in the sandstone, and tasting very much alike. the water contains sulphates and carbonates of soda, iron and lime, with traces of magnesia. it is very refreshing and healthful; so much so that the guests at the neighboring hotel annually consume increasing quantities, besides the thousand bottles sent away daily. thence back to san josé, and, after a good night's rest, set forth on tour v. gilroy, and points south, and the places for which it is the starting point. this brisk and lively, neat and thriving town, we beg its pardon, _city_, is thirty-one miles southeast of san josé, from which one reaches it by the southern pacific railroad for a fare of $2.00. this city is the present terminus of the railroad, and the consequent centre from which radiate the various stage routes to the "lower country." on every hand it presents evidences of business prosperity and rapid growth. population, over two thousand. hot spring--fourteen miles northeast of gilroy, in a small, rocky ravine opening into coyote cañon, is this noted spring. its water contains iron, soda, magnesia, sulphur, and baryta, and has a pungent but not unpleasant taste. throughout the year it preserves a uniform temperature of about one hundred and ten degrees. within a rod of the hot spring are a dozen or more large springs of pure, cold water. the curative properties of the water, added to the romantic character of the surrounding scenery, have caused the erection of a fine hotel, reached by regular stages, over a good road, from gilroy. some twelve miles southwest of gilroy, one may find, in the pajaro valley, as quiet and beautiful an agricultural nook as the state affords. for a quiet retreat in some hospitable farmhouse, with a good chance for small game, for a day or two, this snug valley will decidedly "fill the bill." its black soil, famous potatoes, and charming little branch cañons will dispose a farmer, or a hunter, or a painter to stay as long as possible. when you have rusticated as long as you can in the romantic vicinity of gilroy, and are ready, though unwilling, to go, you can return by the way you came, if you like; but, if time permits, and you wish to see one of the pleasantest sections of the state, you will take stage through hollister and san juan, a quiet little town, old and quaint, and chiefly notable for its early mission, founded in 1797, to monterey, the first capital of california, and noted, also, as the place where the american flag was first raised in california, by com. sloat, july 7th, 1846. here one may see plenty of the old adobe houses, with tiled roofs, built in the primitive mexican style. from monterey, you may come up the coast, by water, or go back to san juan, and thence take stage to watsonville, near the seaward end of the beautiful pajaro valley, and come through to vi. santa cruz, and up the coast. beyond comparison the most delightful among the smaller towns of the state. in fact it is the occidental newport, the pacific nahant, where languid fashion and exhausted business most do congregate. here land and water meet, present the best beauty of each, and combine to proffer new ones impossible to either alone. rides, rambles and drives, swims and sails, picnics and chowder-parties, excellent hotel accommodations, and plenty of good company, furnish the material for as varied enjoyment, and as much of it, as any one of ordinary constitution can stand. the way of approach which we have mentioned, is comparatively rare. the most noted route is from santa clara by daily stage, thirty miles; fare, $3.20. when you have sufficiently enjoyed santa cruz and its beautiful surroundings, you may take the stage any monday, wednesday or friday morning, at eight o'clock, for a ride up the coast. eight miles north we pass laguna creek, noted for good fishing, while its vicinity proffers fine shooting, both of which attractions have combined to make it a favorite camping-ground for picnic parties. nearly three miles further, william's landing gives you the first chance to witness "hawser-shipping", an ingenious device for getting produce, or any form of merchandise, into a boat, or upon the deck of a vessel when the surf is too rough to permit the landing of a boat or the continuance of a pier. thus art makes a "port" for loading or discharging where nature forbids the construction of the ordinary facilities. three and a half miles brings us to davenport's landing, an open roadstead, famous for the longest pier running out into the open ocean, of any place on the pacific coast. thence two miles, to the beautiful laurel groves and camping-grounds of scott's creek. nearly one hundred and fifty deer have been killed in this neighborhood in one season. four miles more, and frogtown welcomes us. here david post proves himself posted in the providing of "good square" meals; in fact, he's just the david who can slay the goliath of hunger, though, instead of hitting one in the middle of the forehead, he commonly aims about an inch below the nose. waddell's wharf is three miles further. thence, by steel's ranch and white house ranch to pigeon point. on the coast, about ten miles from frogtown, thirty-one from santa cruz, and seven from pescadero. this is important to all the neighboring inhabitants, because it is their shipping point, where one may witness the "hawser-pier" in its glory; and interesting to the tourist, because it is a whaling station, and the only one on the coast which he will be likely to see. a colony of portuguese do the whaling. they go out in large open boats, six men to a boat, and shoot the harpoon into the whale from the harpoon-gun. one may sometimes see a dozen or more whales at once, rolling and spouting, or "blowing," in the offing. seven miles further, and our journey ends, or, at least, this particular stage-route ends in pescadero. ho for pescadero and the famous pebble beach! by rail from san francisco to san mateo, twenty miles south, thence by troy coaches over a new toll road, to pescadero, thirty miles. total distance, fifty miles. time: to san mateo, one hour, thence to pescadero, four and a half hours. fare: to san mateo, $1.00, thence to pescadero, $2.85. leaving san mateo, the road winds through beautiful scenery to the summit of the santa cruz mountains, which divide the waters of the bay from those of the ocean. the summit is eight miles from san mateo and affords a view of great extent, embracing the long coast line on the west, white with the surf of breakers, and the broad expanse of the bay on the east, with the diablo range of mountains bounding the horizon. from the summit, it is four miles to the old-fashioned pueblo of spanishtown, nestled in a little dell opening out on half-moon bay. thence four miles to purissima, another coast town, near which an isolated, rounded peak, called ball knob, rises conspicuously above the surrounding hills. from purissima, a drive of twelve miles along, or in sight of, the beach, brings us to our destination. pescadero, is the spanish for fisherman, from _pescado_, fish. the town is situated near the mouth of pescadero creek, so named, probably, from the abundance of trout which swarm in its pools and eddys. the village is about a mile from the beach, in a sheltered depression, affording a charming and secluded retreat for pleasure seekers and invalids. the tourist will find good hotel and stabling accommodations, among the best of which are the lincoln hotel and stables, under the charge of capt. kinsey. prominent among the objects of interest around pescadero, is the celebrated pebble beach, three miles south. here may be seen ladies, gentlemen, and children, on a warm summer day, down on their hands and knees, searching for curious and pretty little pebbles of every hue and shape. the supply is never exhausted, for every storm casts up a new store of treasures. pebbles of sufficient beauty and value to be set in brooches and rings, have been discovered here. the shell beach is two miles further on, being five miles from the hotel, and affords a great deal of variety to the beach hunters. the moss beach is twelve miles south, and here the lovers of the most beautiful, fanciful and delicate combinations of colors and fibres, peculiar to sea mosses, can revel to their hearts' content. the other objects of interest along the coast, are sea lion rocks, two miles west of the hotel, being, as the name suggests, a large rock covered with sea lions. marble bath tubs, five miles south. these are excavations in the solid rock, in the shape of bath tubs, some of natural and some of colossal size. pescadero creek, as above intimated, is a noted trouting stream. a beautiful drive of six miles up the creek, brings us to the mineral springs, and two miles further, is a forest of big trees, some of which are said to be fifty feet in circumference. in their vicinity are three shingle mills. one mile west of the town, is a so-called indian mound, from the summit of which a fine view is obtained. the butano falls seven miles distant, on butano creek, consists of a succession of cascades, over thirty feet high, located in a deep ravine, surrounded by romantic scenery. from pescadero, we may keep on up the coast, any monday, wednesday or friday morning, through san gregorio, purissima, and other quiet little towns, through a beautiful country, over high hills and bluffs bordering on the beach, and affording most magnificent ocean views, eighteen miles, to spanishtown, or half moon bay. the shipping-point of a fertile region lying in the immediate vicinity, and extending back into branching valleys. from this place the road leaves the coast, climbs the hills, by a winding and well-cut grade, to a height of eight hundred feet, whence one enjoys a combination of bay, ocean, hill and valley scenery rarely equaled. upon this summit we pass, for convenience's sake, to crystal springs and san mateo county, and, after enjoying four miles of charming views, while winding down the western slopes, we reach crystal springs, where a number of cold, clear springs break through the rocks, in a romantic cañon, forming so attractive a spot for summer recreation that a large and fine hotel has been built and well sustained. the neighboring roads are good, the tramps endless, and game encouragingly plentiful. thence four miles of delightful road brings us to san mateo, and the iron track again. this is a beautiful little town, made expressly for homes. several prominent san francisco merchants have here hidden their country residences away among oak groves so snugly that one must know exactly where they are, and even then be close upon them, before he would begin to suspect their number, their beauty, and their comfort. from this place, it is worth one's while to drive or ride four miles down to belmont, noted as a favorite picnic ground for large sunday school and society excursions, chiefly from san francisco, and as the residence of wm. c. ralston, esq., whose country seat, in beauty of location, extent of accommodations, with variety and completeness of appointments, happily combines the elegance of a palace with the simplicity and comfort of a home. many a distinguished eastern visitor warmly remembers the generous hospitality of that "home behind the hill." from belmont, it is but three miles and a quarter to redwood city, the county seat of san mateo county, on a navigable slough leading into the bay. its chief industry is the hauling from the hills and shipping from the wharves the redwood lumber, whose abundance has named the town. it has a good hotel--the american house. four miles south of redwood city, menlo park, terminates our excursion in this direction. the attractions of this place are the fine residences of san francisco merchants, surrounded by noble oaks, which, scattered and grouped over a square mile or two, hereabout, have furnished half the name of the place. nature made it a "park;" man added the "menlo." here we may take the cars again, and after a ride of thirty-two miles, first passing, in reverse order, through the three towns just named, with millbrae, the elegant home of d. o. mills, esq., san bruno, twelve mile farm, schoolhouse station and san miguel, we complete the southern tour around the bay and along the coast, and again commit ourselves for a time to the whirl and dust and bustle of the metropolis. having refreshed ourselves with a dash of city life again for a day or two, we are off for the northern circuit, including san rafael, mt. tamalpais, san quentin, state prison, and saucelito. no. 9: petaluma, santa rosa, healdsburg, the geysers, and clear lake, with sonoma and its vineyards, we complete no. 10 with vallejo, mare island, the u. s. navy yard, napa, napa valley, oak knoll and calistoga. we come back down the valley to vallejo, whence mccue's stages take us to benicia, seven and a half miles. [for particulars of above three trips, see bancroft's tourist's guide--geysers.] 11. mt. diablo trip. across the strait of carquinez from benicia, and connected with it by a steam ferry, lies martinez, the county seat of contra costa county. the town has a picturesque situation, several pleasant residences, very beautiful surroundings, and a charming climate. the celebrated alhambra ranch, which has taken several medals as the best cultivated farm, yielding the best fruits, and the best native wine in the state, lies but a short distance hence. five miles back from martinez and the bay, connected with the former by stage and with the latter by a navigable creek, stands pacheco, a quiet, pleasant, country town, noted as the shipping point of the broad and fertile agricultural fields of the diablo and san ramon valleys, lying around and beyond it. the manufacture of carriages and agricultural implements also conduce to its prosperity and importance. another daily stage line also connects this town with oakland. eight miles beyond pacheco, further in and higher up, is clayton, the largest and most romantically situated town in this part of the state, and in the latter particular, surpassed by few on the coast. occupying an elevated bench, or plateau, it commands fine views, and having many wide-spreading oaks scattered through and around, it possesses much intrinsic beauty. mr. clayton, whose name the town has taken, has a vineyard of nearly forty thousand vines, which, though never irrigated, are vigorous and prolific. he sends his excellent grapes directly to san francisco, for the immediate market which they are sure to command, and thus realizes a greater profit than by making them into wine. other vineyards and orchards in this vicinity have over one hundred thousand vines, and nearly forty thousand fruit trees. clayton is the usual point of departure for the ascent of mount diablo, three thousand eight hundred and seventy-six feet high, and christened with its infernal appellation because, like its satanic prototype, it seldom lets men out of its sight. the best time to climb the mountain is early in the morning--the earlier the better. if one can stand on the summit at sunrise he will receive the most ample reward for his early rising. the distance from clayton up is eight miles; the time occupied by a comfortable ascent is a little over two hours. if there are ladies, or persons unused to riding and climbing, the party should allow a good three hours. the clayton livery stable furnishes trained saddle horses for $2.50 a day. the expense of a guide, who furnishes his own horse, is $4.00 for the trip, which, of course, as in yosemite, is usually divided among the party. though not absolutely necessary to employ a guide, it is decidedly safer and better, especially if the party includes ladies, as the trail is in some places difficult, and even dangerous to strangers. the first four miles south from clayton a good carriage-road follows the course of a stream through a deep cañon. over this part, ladies unused to the saddle, and desiring to avoid unnecessary fatigue, would better ride on wheels. at the end of this road, near a farm-house, the tourist turns to the right, and follows a cut trail westerly to deer flat, where are two huts and a spring. beyond deer flat, the trail runs southeasterly to the top of a ridge in sight of the flat below, and thence lies along the top of this ridge, two and a half miles to the summit, where, for the first time in his life, probably, the traveler may get the devil fairly under his feet--or at least the devil's mountain. in the opinion of most tourists, this peak commands a more extensive, varied, and beautiful prospect than any equal elevation in the world. the mountain has two peaks, lying in a northeast and southwest line, nearly three miles apart. the southwestern one is the higher, and possesses scientific or topographical interest, from the fact that the state survey made it one of the three "initial points," from which they ran the "base lines" and "meridian lines," from which or by which the townships and sections are reckoned and located in all extensive conveyances of land. this mountain has an additional claim to its sulphurous surname, from the fact that it is supposed to have been, formerly, a volcano. looking east upon a clear day, or with the good field glass which some one of the party has thoughtfully provided, you may see the pacific ocean, sometimes the farallone islands, san francisco, the bay, the golden gate, mt. tamalpais, the petaluma, sonoma and napa valleys, san pablo and suisun bays, vallejo, navy yard, benicia, the sacramento and san joaquin valleys, with the tortuous windings of their serpentine rivers, creeks and sloughs, stockton and sacramento cities, the marysville buttes, and the snow-capped sierras beyond all; while away to the southwest the quiet santa clara valley completes the magnificent sweep of the glorious panorama, unrolled for more than a hundred miles around. if any of the party feel like sermonizing, the text will readily occur to you: "then the devil taketh him up into an exceeding high mountain, and showeth him all the kingdoms of the world, and the glory of them, and saith unto him: 'all these things will i give thee if thou wilt fall down and worship me.'" as for his proposition to "fall down," we have only to remark, "beloved hearers! don't you do it, for the devil or any other man;" you'd break your necks as sure as you tried it. better _sit_ down in one of the sheltered nooks in the lee below the summit, eat your lunch and prepare for the descent. we may easily return to clayton in time to visit the black diamond coal mines, at nortonville, six miles distant, over a good road, through a rugged, mountainous and picturesque region. the tunnels enter the northeast side of the mountain, descend nearly three hundred feet southwesterly, whence one level follows a three-foot-thick seam, a good half mile northwesterly. two main seams are worked at present, one four feet and the other about three feet thick. they dip easterly, or northeasterly. the mine is very neat, and even cleanly, for a coal mine, so that one _could_ wear down an ordinary suit without harmful soiling. the railroad from the mine to the pier, five miles and a half below, whither iron cars, propelled by gravity, can carry three thousand tons per day, is chiefly remarkable for its unusual grade down the first mile and a half, through which the descent is two hundred and seventy-four feet to the mile. to meet this unusual, but unavoidable necessity, heavy locomotives, of peculiar design and construction, were invented and built at san francisco. they weigh twenty tons, have three pairs of thirty-six-inch driving wheels, with complex and powerful brakes for the enormous friction necessary. from these mines one may descend by the railroad already described, to new york landing, whence the regular stockton steamer will transport him thither, or return him to san francisco, the tourist's grand base of supplies, and point of departure for nearly all the more notable excursions about the state and the coast. 12. sacramento, stockton, and the lakes. to the eleven tours already detailed, one may, or even must, add a twelfth, which is separated from the others, and added, in conclusion, because it consists of cities and places lying on or near the great overland route by which every tourist will be almost certain to enter or leave the state; in most cases, both. these are the capital city, sacramento; the san joaquin county seat, stockton; with lake tahoe and donner lake. one may stop to see these as he comes or goes, or may make them the objects of a special excursion, of which the two lakes, especially tahoe, are notably worthy. sacramento. at the time of the american occupation of california, and for some time previous, the present site of this city was called the "embarcadero;" that is, in spanish, simply "the wharf, or the landing-place," though it strictly means the shipping-place. gen. jno. a. sutter came from new mexico and settled here in august, 1839. the next year the mexican government granted him the land on which he had "located." he accordingly built a fort and gave himself to stock raising, agriculture, and trade. thenceforward for several years the place was known only as "sutter's fort." in july, 1845, gen. sutter engaged the service of jas. w. marshall, as a sort of agent, or manager. this man became the discoverer of gold in the following accidental manner: in september, 1847, he went up some fifty miles from the fort, upon the south fork of the american river, to construct a sawmill, which, in due time, with one single, most fortunate blunder, he accomplished. the blunder was this: when the water was let on, the tail-race proved too narrow and too shallow. to widen and deepen it in the quickest and cheapest way, he let through a strong current of water, which swept a mass of mud and gravel down to and beyond the lower end. january 19th, 1848, the birth-day of the "golden age" in california, marshall noticed several yellowish particles shining out from this mud and gravel. he was, naturally, curious enough to collect and examine them. he called five carpenters who were at work on the mill, to join their judgments with his. they talked over the _possibility_ of its being gold, but seem to have thought it so little _probable_, that they quietly returned to their usual work. among the larger pieces of "yellow stuff" which marshall picked up that day, was a pebble weighing six pennyweights and eleven grains. he gave it to the nearest housekeeper, mrs. weimer, and asked her to boil it in saleratus water and see what would come of it. she was making soap at the time, and thinking the lye would prove stronger than simple saleratus water, she immediately pitched it into the soap kettle, from which it was fished out the next day, and found all the brighter for its long boiling. two weeks later, marshall brought the specimens down to the fort and gave them to sutter to have them tested. before the general had quite made up his mind as to whether they were certainly gold or not, he went up to the mill, and, with marshall, made a treaty with the indians, buying their titles to all the surrounding country. the little circle that knew it, tried to keep the matter secret, but it soon leaked out, and though not sure of its real nature, several began to hunt the yellow stuff that might prove the king of metals. the next month, february, one of the party carried some of the dust down to yerba buena (san francisco). here he providentially met isaac humphrey, an old georgia gold miner, who, upon his first look at the specimens, said they were gold, and that the diggings must be rich. he tried to persuade some of his friends to go up to the mill with him, but they thought it only a crazy expedition, and let him go alone. mr. humphrey reached the mill march 7th. only a few were lazily hunting for gold; there was no excitement; the most of the men were working in the mill as usual. next day he began "prospecting," and quickly satisfied himself that he had "struck it rich." he returned to the mill, made a "rocker," and immediately commenced placer mining in dead earnest. a few days later, baptiste, a frenchman, who had mined in mexico, left the lumber he was sawing for sutter, at weber's, ten miles east of coloma, and came over to the mill. he agreed with humphrey that the region was rich, furnished himself with rocker and pan, and forthwith began to develop the shining wealth, beside which mills, lumber, ranches, flocks, and crops were of small account. so these two men, humphrey and baptiste, became the pioneer gold-miners of california, and the first practical teachers of placer mining. the lumbermen around crowded in to see how they did it. the process was simple, the teachers were obliging, the lesson easy, the result sure and speedy wealth. they soon located "claims" all about, began to hoard their "piles," and sutter's fort, as the place through which all new comers passed, began a rapid growth, which proved the origin and nucleus of the present capital of california. the sacramento of to-day stands on the east bank of the sacramento river, about one mile below the junction of the american river, and at the head of tide navigation. next to san francisco, it is the largest city in the state, having a population of twenty thousand. it owes its importance chiefly to four things: 1st. its central position, in the midst of the finest agricultural region of the state. 2d. its situation at the head of tide water on the largest river of the state. 3d. it is the great railroad centre. four leading roads terminate there. 4th. it is the political capital, having become so in 1854. the city was originally built on ground so low and level that the heavy floods have twice broken through the levee and nearly destroyed the town. the two great floods were those of 1851-2 and 1861-2. thus, by sheer necessity of self-preservation, the inhabitants have been compelled to raise the grade of all the streets, and, in fact, of almost the whole city, nearly ten feet above the original level. sacramento has fine schools and churches, while the gardens, and shrubbery about the houses, combined with the trees along the streets, give it a most refreshing, home-like, and attractive appearance. beyond the depots, immense foundries and machine shops of the central pacific railroad, the city presents the single great attraction of the state capitol, an immense building occupying the centre of four blocks, bounded by l and n streets on the north and south, and by twelfth and tenth streets on the east and west. these four blocks were a gift from the city to the state. the building faces west, fronting three hundred and twenty feet on tenth street, while its two wings run back along l and n streets, one hundred and sixty-four feet upon each. its height is eighty feet, divided into three lofty stories. the lower story is granite; those above, brick. the main entrance is approached by granite steps, twenty-five feet high and eighty feet wide. the style of architecture is composite--the roman corinthian. the building was begun ten years ago, has been steadily carried on since, and will probably require two or three years longer for its full completion. the interior.--entering the vestibule, we find ourselves in a hall twenty feet deep, seventy-three feet wide, and having broad stairs on either hand. from the vestibule a broad and high-arched doorway, admits us to the rotunda, seventy-two feet in diameter, and rising through the height of the first dome. in the wall, between the openings of the different broad halls, are four niches to be filled by statues of washington, lincoln, a pioneer miner, and a pioneer hunter, one half larger than life. above these niches and the hall entrances, will be eight panels, each thirteen feet by six, with stucco frames for frescoes. directly over each of these will be a round panel for similar purposes, and with similar ornamentation. above these circular panels, will be a row of thirteen sunken panels, each thirteen by eight and a half feet, to be filled with pictures; and over these, still higher up, a tier of frames, each ten by sixteen feet, numbering sixteen in all, and also intended for paintings. the frames of these last extend clear to the bottom of the sky-light, and are to be painted red, white and blue, successively, thus presenting from below a huge sixteen pointed star of the national colors. the first story is twenty-one and a half feet high. from the right of the rotunda, a hall sixteen feet wide, leads south through the centre of that wing. first, on the right, are the secretary of state's two rooms, twenty-nine feet wide, and having a united length of forty-seven feet, elegantly finished and furnished. beyond these, in the southwest corner, is a reception, or committee room, twenty-seven by thirty, while the other corner has a like space divided into two rooms for similar purposes. opposite the secretary's is the chief justice's room. as we may not have time to descend to and describe the lower or ground floor, we may here say that its space is mainly occupied by the judges of the supreme court. in the north wing we have a similar arrangement of rooms, and to be occupied by the state treasurer, controller, attorney-general, board of education, besides two yet unassigned. returning to the rotunda, and going east, we enter the supreme court room, occupying a circular or ellipsoidal projection built out from the east side of the building between the two wings. the room is fifty-eight by forty-six feet, lofty and well-lighted. thence, crossing a hall on the southwest, one enters the supreme court library room, twenty-eight by thirty-three feet, and containing four thousand volumes. the second floor has a height of twenty feet clear, with halls like those below. along the central portion of the main hall the rooms on either side are the public law library room, two committee rooms on each side of the library, two rooms for the sergeants-at-arms of the assembly and the senate, and eight committee rooms. occupying the east half of the south wing is the senate chamber, while the assembly chamber has the corresponding location in the north wing, and the state library occupies the circular projection on the east side immediately over the supreme court room already described. between the senate chamber and the hall swing a pair of magnificent double doors of solid black walnut, inclosing beautiful panels of california laurel-wood, bordered by elaborate carving. these doors are thirteen feet high by seven feet wide, and six inches thick, and for massive elegance and costliness, are among the noticeable features of the capitol. the chamber itself is sixty-two feet deep, seventy-two feet wide, and forty-six feet high. a continuous gallery, supported by eight corinthian columns, extends across the west side, and throws a wing some distance forward on both the north and south. these columns are copied from those in portico of septimus severus at rome. twenty windows light the room by day, and two large gilt and crystal chandeliers by night. the president's desk occupies a recess in the centre of the east side. above the desk, large gold letters present the motto, "senatoris est civitatis libertatem tueri." a full-length portrait of washington hangs above this motto. the senators' desks are of black walnut, of large size, and handsome pattern. a capacious arm-chair, upholstered with crimson plush velvet, accompanies each desk. the assembly chamber occupies the eastern portion of the north wing. it measures ten feet more each way than the senate chamber; has the same style of architecture, and closely resembles that room in its general finish and furnishing, except that the desks and chairs are twice as numerous; the senators numbering forty, the assemblymen, eighty. the upholstering of the chairs of this room is of green velvet. very rich and heavy carpets of elegant patterns cover the floors of both rooms. the motto of this hall is, "legislatorum est justas leges condere." over the motto hangs a life-size portrait of general sutter, the founder of the city. still above the portrait, in a sort of arched niche, is a statue of minerva, having a horn of plenty on her right and a california bear upon her left. a like statue similarly flanked, occupies the corresponding position in the senate chamber. the state library.--the state library occupies the circular or elipsoidal projection midway between the north and south wings on the east side of the building, immediately over the supreme court rooms. the library room is fifty-eight feet long by forty-six feet wide, and forty-six feet high. its plan is unique. in the centre, a rotunda, rising straight up through, is crowned by a dome, whose top is sixty-three feet above the floor. a broad, circular gallery divides the room into two stories, each of which is itself again divided into two by a sub-gallery. the circular space around the rotunda, contains nine equal alcoves. the peculiar outline produces a singular, and somewhat startling effect, which is, that when standing in the centre of this library, one cannot see a single book, although the shelves around him contain nearly thirty thousand volumes. convenient stairs give easy access to galleries and sub-galleries; all of which are arranged in the same manner. counting the different levels from which ascend the successive tiers of radial shelving, the library room is four stories high. the dome rests on twelve corinthian columns, similar to those in the senate and assembly chambers, already described. still above the library, surrounding the rotunda, is a large circular room, devoted to the storage of papers, pamphlets, and congressional reports. the third floor is eighteen feet high in the clear, and is divided into seventeen committee rooms, besides a large hall in the southwest corner of the south wing, which is provided for a cabinet and museum. the dome.--over the inner dome, already built, will be erected the main or outer dome, one hundred feet higher, supported on massive iron columns, and surmounted by powers' statue of california, in iron. the grounds about the building, covering the four blocks donated by the city, will be terraced and sodded, set with native trees, beautiful flower plots, traversed by graveled walks, inclosed by a massive and costly fence, and entered by gateways at the corners and at the centres of each side. over $1,000,000, in gold coin, has already been expended upon it, and it is more than probable that the better part of another million will follow the first, before californians will witness the completion of their costly capitol, which is, however, as it should be, by far the noblest building west of the mississippi. although still unfinished, the legislature took formal possession of the building on monday, dec. 6th, 1869. the secretary of state, state treasurer, supreme judges, and several other state officials, already occupy the apartments assigned to them. other buildings.--the new odd fellows' hall, the savings bank building, two or three of the churches, the residence of chas. crocker, and those of several other prominent gentlemen, equal the finest in the state. hotels.--the golden eagle and the orleans are the best. the former is newer, stands nearer the capitol, and accommodates the legislators. the latter is newly and elegantly furnished and is the great haunt of the railroad men. as for tables and beds, either will furnish you the best in the city. each runs free coaches from the depots and wharves. view of the city.--no neighboring natural eminence affords any point of sight worth noting. from the capitol dome, however, one has a view of the tree-embowered city, and the far-reaching, fertile valley, the gracefully winding, tree-bordered river, and the distant, snow-capped mountains, which form a panorama of beauty, shut in by grandeur, rarely to be enjoyed from as slight an elevation. stockton. a trifle over one third of the way down from sacramento to san francisco, lies stockton, the county seat of san joaquin county, and in population, the fourth city of the state. it stands on both banks of a deep and wide slough of the same name, navigable the year round, and opening into the san joaquin river, three miles west of the city. it was named in compliment to commodore stockton, in honorable recognition of his prominent services in the conquest of the state. no city in california has had a more gradual, steady and healthful growth. for many years it was the point of departure and the centre of trade for several of the richest mining regions, of which business it still retains, directly or indirectly, a full proportion. its great source of prosperity and of wealth, however, is the immense grain-producing country, the famous san joaquin valley, which surrounds it. last year, 1870, stockton exported 94,152,000 lbs., nearly 50,000 tons, of wheat; and 3,160,500 lbs. of wool; 53,586 tons of hay, and nearly 160 tons of butter and cheese. the artesian well.--one of the points of vital interest to the inhabitants, if not to every tourist, is the great well, one thousand and two feet deep, seven inches in diameter, and discharging three hundred and sixty thousand gallons daily. the insane asylum.--the chief architectural attractions of stockton are the two large and fine buildings of the state insane asylum, occupying most extensive, beautifully planned, and tastefully kept grounds, in the northern part of the city. the institution was opened in 1853, and has now about eleven hundred patients in care. it is the most expensive public institution yet completed in the state, having cost nearly one million dollars. it is open to visitors at stated hours, except the female department, through which gentlemen are not allowed to pass, unless by special permission of, or in company with, the attendant physician. superintendent and resident physician, dr. g. a. shurtleff. hotels.--of the six or eight hotels in the city, only two rank as first-class. the yosemite house is emphatically _the_ tourist's home. the moment you step upon the depot platform, or the steamboat pier, look out for the bluest eye, the fairest hair, and the most attractive face in the crowd, and ride home with their owner. he's one of the three mcbean brothers, whose excellent management has made the yosemite house so widely known and so increasingly popular. the grand hotel is the other first-class house, and is conducted upon the restaurant plan. routes and teams.--if you want to know where to go and how to get there, ask for robert c. patten, or address him through box 91, stockton p. o., and he'll make any desired arrangements for you, in the kindest way, the promptest time, and at the lowest rate. from stockton toward oakland. the western pacific railroad takes us first, to lathrop, nine miles west of stockton. here is the junction of the visalia division of the central pacific railroad now open to modesto, twenty-one miles south, on the tuolumne river. this is one of the present points of departure for the calaveras big trees and the yosemite valley, whither stages depart daily. returning to lathrop and continuing west about one mile thence, we cross the san joaquin river, broad, shallow and muddy, bordered by level reaches of tule lands, so low that a few feet rise in the river overflows thousands of acres, and makes the river sometimes nearly six miles wide. a necessity, resulting from this overflow, is the san joaquin bridge, which not only spans the permanent bed of the roily stream, but extends several miles across the low tule lands, whose submergence would otherwise completely stop all travel, except by swimming, wading, boating or flying. seven miles from lathrop, we come to banta's, a small freight and passenger station, whence tri-weekly stages connect for hill's ferry, forty miles. five miles further, through a fine agricultural country, brings us to ellis, a small village clustered round the usual saloons and restaurants; whence six miles more and we reach midway, whose name will never be true till either san francisco or sacramento moves six miles nearer the other. seven and a half miles further, we suddenly plunge into a well-cut tunnel, about six hundred feet long, whose chief peculiarity is that we enter it in one county and leave it in another. it receives us in san joaquin county, carries us under the boundary, and ushers us into alameda county. just after coming out from the tunnel, we whirl by the little flag station altamont, whence we begin to enter upon the down grade, and roll through the livermore pass, which is either a valley or a hill, according to whether one reckons downward from the higher summits on either side, or upward from the lower level at either end. eight miles from altamont we stop at livermore, a rapidly-growing village in the beautiful livermore valley, forty-seven miles from san francisco. from this station down to pleasanton, is only six miles, and they are _pleasant 'uns_ indeed. a thriving town, finely situated and beautifully surrounded. thence rolling rapidly down the tortuous track, we skirt along the bases of high hills, follow the windings of a charming little narrow valley, rumbling through two or three strong frame bridges, for twelve miles, when niles, and its junction, with "change cars for san josé," notify us that we have fairly passed the hills, and entered upon the fertile plains which gently slope from the foothills to the bay, whose southern portion is our first glimpse of pacific salt water. at niles we can take the san josé cars, and go round, through that city, to san francisco, all the way by land, if we particularly desire to accomplish the whole transit on wheels. if we do that, we shall travel forty miles further than by keeping straight on from niles through decoto, which is but two miles. decoto is one of the "going to be" towns. at present it exists chiefly in the future tense. nine miles still between the rolling foothills on the right and the almost level plains stretching away bayward, brings us to san lorenzo, which presents nothing of special note beyond a quiet, restful-looking town, quite refreshing to the tired and dusty tourist. thence four miles, and san leandro, town and creek, arrest our train for sixty seconds. the court house, jail, a large agricultural implement factory, with several stores, one or two hotels and a newspaper, invest this pleasant town with all the dignity of a comfortable county seat. seven miles from san leandro, is brooklyn, a thriving, go-ahead town of two thousand inhabitants nights, and about seventeen hundred by day, when a good seventh of its denizens are away at their business in san francisco. thence a short two miles, and we stop again at oakland, the tree-embowered city named by nature, and chosen by man for charming homes and quiet halls of learning. moving once more, and for the last time, we steam by the hedges, gardens, cottages and mansions along the southwest suburb, and roll slowly out two miles along a strongly built pier, over the shallow margin of the bay, or the undisguised flats, according to the tide, and "down brakes" for good on the last rails of the great iron way across the continent, and over the waters of another ocean. an elegant ferry-boat, "el capitan," quickly receives us, and, in fifteen minutes, the san francisco pier welcomes us to the occidental metropolis, and our journey is done. turn, now, to the paragraph on hacks and hotels; let one take you to the other, bathe, eat and sleep, and next morning, hunt up the "short excursions in and about san francisco," and devote yourself to cultivating the pacific metropolis. lake tahoe. this beautiful mountain lake lies along the eastern margins of placer and el dorado counties. the state line between california and nevada passes through it, lengthwise, from north to south. we reach it by stage from the central pacific railroad at truckee, in three hours, over a variable road, through scenery often beautiful, and for the extravagant fare of $3.00. the lake is one mile and a quarter above the sea level. it is itself a little inland sea, thirty miles long, from eight to fifteen wide, and in places nearly two thousand feet deep. its water is clear as crystal, cold as the melting ice and snows which feed it, and the purest known upon the continent. floating upon its surface, and looking down through its water, one can easily count the pebbles and stones along its gravelly bottom at the depth of sixty feet. one seems suspended between two firmaments of ether, with birds flying above and fish swimming below. and such trout! swimming forty feet beneath you, and plainly visible in all their quick and graceful motions between you and the rocky bottom. from the water's edge, grassy slopes, pebbly beaches, rocky shores and precipitous bluffs lead the eye up through tree-dotted ravines, over forest-crowned hills to snow-clad mountains, white-headed with age, and ermine-mantled upon their tremendous shoulders. a small steamer or two ply upon the lake--plenty of good boats await one, and excellent hotels accommodate transient guests, or more permanent boarders. from tahoe, back to truckee, by stage, cross the railroad, and ride out two miles to donner lake, smaller, but hardly less beautiful than that just left. its great beauty in itself, the wild and romantic surrounding scenery, its ease of access and its good hotel, make it a popular summer resort. the tragical circumstances, seldom equaled in the pioneer history of any country, which gave the name to this lake, may be found graphically narrated in the "overland monthly" for july, 1870. if you visit these charming lakes on your journey to the state you could not have a grander introduction to its scenes of wonder and beauty; if you take them on your return east, you could not possibly carry away more delicious memories of lovelier spots. whether they bid you "welcome" or "farewell," you will leave them with regret, recall them with delight, and long to return and linger among their matchless charms. complete index. abbreviations.--s. f. san francisco. sac. sacramento. s. j. san josé. st. stockton. yo. yosemite. alabaster cave, 77 alameda, 196 " ferry, 196 alcatraz island, 196-206 alhambra theatre, s. f., 123 almaden mine, 214 alta california bldg., s. f., 157 alvarado, 211 american ex. hotel, s. f., 120 angel island, 196-207 approaches to s. f., 107 art gallery, 133 artesian well, st., 244 asylums, s. f., 167-8 auzerais house, s. j., 213 baggage express, s. f., 115 bancroft's, 157-172-174 bank of cal., s. f., 154 banta's, 246 baseball grounds, 130 baths, 122 bay trips, 205 bay view road--track--house, 147-192 beer cellars, 124 beet sugar works, 211 belmont, 224 bernal heights, s. f., 183 big trees, 57 billiards, s. f., 127 black diamond coal co. mine, 189-230 black point, 196 bonita point, 195 bower cave, 72 bowling saloons, s. f., 127 bridal veil fall, yo., 28 brief trips, s. f., 197 broderick mt., 40 brooklyn, 249 brooklyn hotel, s. f., 120 business buildings and blocks, s. f., 157-159 butchertown, 192 calaveras big trees, 52 central p. r. r. co., 190 california street, s. f., 143 " " hill, s. f., 181 california theatre, 123 capitol, sac., 236 cathedral rocks, 30 " spires, 30 chinese quarter, s. f., 197 " theatres, 123 churches, s. f., 161 circuit of s. f., 189 city gardens, 140 city and co. buildings, s. f., 150-153 clay street hill, 180 clayton, 227 cliff house--road, 145-199 cloud's rest, 41 colleges, s. f., 169-171 congress springs, 215 conveyances, s. f., 113 corporation buildings, s. f., 153-157 cosmopolitan hotel, s. f., 119 court house, s. j., 213 cricket grounds, s. f., 130 crystal chapel, 85 " springs, 223 custom house, s. f., 149 dance halls, s. f., 124 dashaways, 126 davenport's landing, 219 deaf and dumb asylum, berkeley, 210 decoto, 248 deep cut, s. f., 191 denman school, 171 donner lake, 252 donohoe building, 157 drives, s. f., 145 dry dock, 192 dungeon of enchantment, 82 el capitan, 48 ellis, 246 engine houses, s. f., 152 excursion routes, 205 farrallones, 194 ferries, 196 fire department, s. f., 153 fissure, the, yo., 31 footing it, 187 fort point, 194 frogtown, 219 gardens, s. f., 130 gas works, s. f., 190 gilroy, 215 glacier rock, 33 glass works, 191 goat island, 207 gold, discovery of, 233 golden gate, 195 grand hotel, 117 gymnasiums, s. f., 128 half dome, 41 halls, s. f., 125 harpending's block, 157 hayward's, 211 horse cars, s. f., 184 hospitals, s. f., 167-190 hotels, s. f., 116 how to get about, 184 hunter's point, 192 illilouette fall, 35 industrial school, 152 italian fishing fleet, 191 jail, s. f., 151 kachoomah fall, 38 kimball car manufactory, 159 lagoon, the, 193 laguna creek, 218 lake honda, 193 lake merced, 193 lathrop, 245 libraries, s. f., 148 light house, fort point, 193 lime point, 195 lincoln school, 171 livermore, 247 livery stables, 187 lodging-houses, s. f., 121 lone mountain, 181 long bridge, s. f., 191 lumber yards, s. f., 189 maguire's opera house, 123 manufactories, s. f., 159-161 marine hospital, 150 mariposa big trees, 57 marshall, jas. w., 232 martinez, 226 masonic temple, s. f., 156 mechanics' institute, 158 " pavilion, 155 melodeons, s. f., 124 menageries, 140 menlo park, 225 mercantile library, s. f., 154 merchants' exchange, 154 metropolitan theatre, s. f., 123 midway, 247 milbrae, 225 mint, 149 mirror lake, 42 mission bay--peaks--rocks, 182-190 modesto, 245 monterey, 217 mountain lake, 195 mt. broderick, 40 mt. diablo, 226-227 mt. starr king, 40 museums, s. f., 124 nevada fall, 38 new almaden, 214 new york exchange hotel, s. j., 213 niles, 248 north beach, 196 north dome, 43 " point, 196 oakland, 209-249 " ferry, 196 ocean house--road, 146-193 " race course, 193 odd fellows' hall, s. f., 156 pacheco, 226 pacific bank, s. f., 193 p. m. s. s. co., 190 pacific rolling mill, 160-191 pajaro valley, 216 palace car, 159 parks, s. f., 130 pescadero, 220 " creek, 222 pigeon point, 219 pioneers, society of, 153 pioneer woolen mills, 196 pleasanton, 247 point bonita, 195 " lobos, 194 points of observation, 174 porn-porn-pa-sue, 47 post-office, s. f., 148 potrero, 191 presidio, 195 private residences, s. f., 174 promenades, s. f., 141-144 pulpit, the, 87 redwood city, 224 restaurants, s. f., 121 rincon hill, 181 " point, 190 rope walk, s. f., 191 royal arches, yo., 44 russian hill, 180 sacramento, 231-2 san bruno road, 192 san francisco, 95-204 approaches, 107 baths, 122 buildings--business, 157 " public, 148 chinese quarter, 197 churches, 161 colleges, 169 conveyances, 113 drives, 145 excursions about city, 197 gymnasiums, 128 halls, 125 hills, 174 historical sketch, 95 horse cars, 184 hospitals, asylums, etc., 167 hotels, 116 how to get about, 184 libraries, 148 lodging houses, 121 manufactories, 159 melodeons, 124 museums, 124 places of amusement, 122 plan of city, 102 private residences, 174 promenades, 141 restaurants, 121 schools, 171 sea wall, 196 situation and extent, 99 skating rinks, 130 squares and parks, 141 suburbs and vicinity, 188 theatres, 122 san joaquin river, 246 san josé--trip, 212 san juan, 217 san leandro, 249 san lorenzo, 249 san mateo, 223 san quentin, 196 santa clara, 215 santa cruz, 217 saratoga, 215 saucelito, 196 scott's creek, 219 sea wall, 196 seal rocks, 194 sentinel dome, 32 sentinel rock, 31 ship yards, s. f., 161 shot tower, s. f., 161 skating rinks, s. f., 130 south san francisco, 192 state normal school, s. j., 213 state university, 210 sugar refineries, 161 sutter, gen. jno. a., 232 tahoe, lake, 250 telegraph hill, 174 tenaya cañon, 41 " lake, 43 three brothers, 47 tooloolweack fall, 36 tutochahnulah, 48 vallejo, 196 vernal fall, 35 visitacion point and val., 192 waddell's wharf, 219 warm springs, 211 washington column, 44 woodward's gardens, 130-140 yosemite, 24-48 for routes, conveyances, time, hotels, guides, horses, outfit, and expenses see _introduction_. index to advertisers. big trees, calaveras co., sperry & perry, xliii central pac. r. r. yosemite route, xv geysers. great geyser springs, j. c. susenbeth, xvi gilroy. hanna house, j. a. gordon & co., xliv modesto. ross house, j. cole, xvii napa city. revere house, j. w. sharp, xviii oakland. taylor's carpet store, liii petaluma. american hotel, mrs. wm. ordway, xix san francisco. a. l. bancroft & company, books and stationery, cover a. l. bancroft & company, pianos, vii blake, robbins & co., paper, xii bradley & rulofson, photographs, xx california ink company, g. l. faulkner, xxi city livery and sale stables, m. magner, xlv eagle pencils, xxii r. eitner, engraver, xxiii jos. figel, merchant tailor, xxiv l. p. fisher, advertising agent, xxv grand hotel, johnson & co, xlvi henry g. hanks, assayer and chemist, lvi hobbs, gilmore & co., xxvi j. isaac & co., stationery, xi sam'l kellett, plaster, decorations, xlviii mcafee, spiers & co., boiler makers, viii j. c. meussdorffer, hats, xxvii new york livery stable, crittenden & dalton, xlix occidental hotel, xxviii overland monthly, j. h. carmany & co., vi geo. t. pracy, xxix h. rosekrans & co., hardware, xxx sherman & hyde, music dealers, xxxi thurnauer & zinn, willow ware, xxxii watkins' photographic views, xiii woodward's gardens, lvii san josé. auzerais house, l church & wallace, teams and saddle horses, lvi new york exchange hotel, li stockton. yosemite house, liv yosemite. coulterville route, xxxiii coulterville and mariposa route, c. p. r. r., xv new yosemite hotel, leidig & davaney, lii boston. and. t. graves, books, xxxiv henry hoyt, new prize books, xxxv lee & shepard, schwartz novels, xiv lee & shepard, books of travel, xxxvi loring's r. r. novels, lv h. a. young & co., books, xxxvii new york. appleton's guide books, xxxviii eagle pencils, xxii gillott's pens, inside cover harper's periodicals, iii j. s. redfield, books, xxxix s. r. wells, phrenology, xl shipmans' patent file, v spencerian pens, ivison, blakeman & taylor, iv palmyra, n. y. globe printing presses, x philadelphia. chas. desilver, school books, xli kay & brother, publishers, &c., xlii springfield, mass. webster's dictionaries, ix tourist's guide advertiser. harper's periodicals. harper's magazine. the great design of _harper's_ is to give correct information and rational amusement to the great masses of the people. there is no monthly magazine an intelligent reading family can less afford to be without. many magazines are accumulated. _harper's_ is edited.--_new england homestead._ harper's weekly. the best publication of its class in america, and so far ahead of all other weekly journals as not to permit of any comparison between it and any of their number.--_boston traveler._ _harper's weekly_ is the best and most interesting illustrated newspaper. nor does its value depend on its illustrations alone. its reading-matter is of a high order of literary merit--varied, instructive, entertaining, and unexceptionable.--_n. y. sun._ harper's bazar. free from all political and sectarian discussion, devoted to fashion, pleasure, and instruction, it is just the agreeable, companionable, and interesting domestic paper which every mother and wife and sweetheart will require every son, husband, and lover to bring home with him, every saturday evening.--_philadelphia ledger._ _terms_: harper's magazine, one year, $4 00 harper's weekly, one year, 4 00 harper's bazar, one year, 4 00 harper's magazine, harper's weekly, and harper's bazar, to one address, for one year, $10 00; or any two for $7 00. an extra copy of either the magazine, weekly, or bazar will be supplied gratis for every club of five subscribers at $4 00 each, in one remittance; or six copies for $20 00, without extra copy. spencerian steel pens. _manufactured by the original inventor of steel pens._ the celebrated durability and perfection of action of these pens are owing to a peculiar process of carbonizing and to the great care taken in their manufacture by the most skilled and experienced workmen in europe. they are a nearer approximation to the real swan quill than anything hitherto invented. for sale by dealers generally. sample card containing all the 14 numbers artistically arranged and securely enclosed, sent by mail on receipt of 25 cents. _the traveler's vade mecum._ lately published. a pocket dictionary of the english language. abridged from webster's quarto, illustrated with nearly two hundred engravings on wood. by wm. g. webster, and wm. a. wheeler. the illustrated catalogue, descriptive of the american educational series of school and college text-books, and the educational reporter, a handsome publication full of useful information, mailed free to any address. ivison, blakeman, taylor & co., publishers, 138 and 140 grand street, new york. for saving valuable papers nothing equals shipman's patent adhesive letter and invoice file. we would respectfully call the attention of business men, bankers and others, to our patent adhesive letter and invoice file. we claim that it is the best article in use for the preservation of all kinds of printed or written documents, such as letters, invoices, bills, &c., &c. they are in use by most of the business firms and companies in the united states. its form is that of a _scrap book_, of various sizes, having narrow leaves with adhesive surface, which requires only to be moistened and the document applied; thus it becomes a _book_ of 250 or 500 letters, _arranged_ in the order of _dates_, secure from _loss_ or _misplacement_, and as convenient for _reference_ as a ledger account--and this with the least expense of time. every lover of order or economist of time must appreciate its importance. we also keep constantly on hand, in great variety, invoice and scrap books, letter copying books, blank books and a full assortment of stationery. asa l. shipman & sons, 25 chambers street, new york. _subscribe for the_ overland monthly _the only literary magazine_ published on the pacific coast. the seventh volume of this popular california magazine will commence with the july number for 1871. its popularity has induced the publishers to make still greater exertions in producing an interesting and instructive periodical. [illustration: bear] terms:--$4.00 per annum, _payable in advance_. club rates:--two copies, $7.00; five copies, $16.00; ten copies, $30.00; and each additional copy, $3.00. for every club of twenty subscribers, an extra copy will be furnished gratis. published by john h. carmany & co. no. 409 washington street san francisco. pianos, organs, and _music publications_. new piano agency.--messrs. a. l. bancroft & co. have organized, under the management of wm. henry knight, a music department, where may be found a complete assortment of pianos, organs, sheet music and music publications. following are some of their specialties: i. the georgi piano-forte--a new and magnificent instrument; in every respect strictly first-class, and becoming very popular in the east. ii. the prince organs and melodeons.--there are 46,500 of these now in use. they are unsurpassed among reed organs. iii. the mccammon pianos, formerly known as the celebrated "boardman & gray" piano. a very superior, moderate priced instrument. iv. the cottage and school piano.--in small sized cases, elegant in appearance, of low cost, and very durable. v. hook's pipe organs for churches.--the best manufactured. vi. lunan's german upright pianos.--fine-toned, thoroughly well made instruments. vii. music publications.--sheet music, instruction books, etc., etc. for descriptive circulars and price lists, address or apply to a. l. bancroft & company, music department, bancroft's building, san francisco. mcafee, spiers & co., _boiler makers and_ general machinists. _high and low-pressure boilers_, stationary and marine. howard st., bet. fremont and beale, san francisco. also orders received for every description of machinery. having 24 years' experience in this business, we feel confident of being able to compete, as to quality of work, with any establishment on the pacific coast. particular and personal attention given to repairs of old boilers on steamships and steamboats. [illustration: webster's unabridged dictionary illustrated edition 3000 engravings] get the best webster's unabridged dictionary. 10,000 words and meanings not in other dictionaries. 3,000 engravings. 1,840 pages quarto. price $12. glad to add my testimony in its favor. [president walker of hartford.] every scholar knows its value. [w. h. prescott, the historian.] the most complete dictionary of the language. [dr. dick, of scotland.] the best guide of students of our language. [john g. whittier.] he will transmit his name to latest posterity. [chancellor kent.] etymological parts surpasses anything by earlier laborers. [george bancroft.] bearing relation to language principia does to philosophy. [elihu burritt.] excels all others in defining scientific terms. [president hitchcock.] so far as i know, best defining dictionary. [horace mann.] take it altogether, the surpassing work. [smart, the english orthoepist.] a necessity for every intelligent family, student, teacher and professional man. what library is complete without the best english dictionary? published by g. & c. merriam, springfield. mass. sold by a. l. bancroft & co., san francisco, and all booksellers. also, webster's national pictorial dictionary. 1040 pages octavo. 600 engravings. price $5. the work is really a _gem of a dictionary_, just the thing for the millions.--_american educational monthly_. globe printing presses. [illustration: printing press] impression can be thrown off. dwell on the impression. detention of rollers on cylinder and double vibrating distributors, giving unlimited distribution. net cash prices: half medium, 13 × 19½ inches inside of chase, $550.00. fountain, $25.00. steam fixtures, $15.00. boxing, $10.00.--extra. quarto medium, 10 × 15 inches inside of chase, $425.00. fountain, $25.00. steam fixtures, $15.00. boxing, $7.00.--extra. eighth medium, 8 × 12 inches inside of chase, $250.00. steam fixtures, $15.00. boxing, $6.00.--extra. one roller mould, two sets roller stocks, and three chases, are included with each press. all of these presses will be thoroughly tested, strongly boxed, and delivered to the order of the purchaser, at our manufactory, palmyra, n. y. jones manufacturing co. palmyra, n. y. joseph isaac. h. robitscheck. j. isaac & co., importers and jobbers of stationery, blank books, _manila and wrapping papers,_ playing cards, labels, liquor essences, etc., etc., etc., _513 sansome st., cor. merchant_ san francisco. j. isaac & co's paper warehouse. dealers in papers of all descriptions, _envelopes, inks, twine, playing cards,_ liquor and wine labels, _essential oils, etc., etc._ blake, robbins & co., importers and jobbers of _book, news, writing and_ wrapping paper, _paper bags, card stock, straw paper,_ straw and binders' board, inks, bronzes, etc. agents for carson's celebrated letter papers, inferior to none. agents for dexter's manila papers. agents for whiting mill paper, and other leading brands. _516 sacramento & 519 commercial sts._ san francisco. francis blake, } james moffitt, } san francisco. chas. f. robbins, } james w. towne, new york. _new york office, 18 and 20 vesey street._ watkins' yosemite gallery, 429 montgomery street, san francisco, cal. photographic views of yosemite valley, the big trees, the mines, the splendid scenery of the central pacific railroad, the coast etc., etc. can be had in all sizes for framing, the album, or the stereoscope. sold wholesale and retail. a liberal discount made to the trade. _you are requested to visit the gallery._ the most popular novels are the _schwartz novels_. translated from the swedish of madame marie sophie schwartz, by miss selma borg, and miss marie a. brown. _now ready_. guilt and innocence. paper, $1 00; cloth, $1 50. "madame schwartz is a writer of much greater literary merit than miss muhlbach, whose works have been so widely circulated in this country."--_new york atlas._ gold and name. paper, $1 00; cloth, $1 50. "this is a powerful book; in plot and style, it is equally good. its morals--it may be considered to have several--are unexceptionable."--_christian standard, cincinnati._ birth and education. paper, $1 00; cloth, $1 50. "this title would make one suppose that it was a book devoted to common schools and academies. instead of that, it is a romance of the very highest class,--one of the best historical novels of the age."--_albany evening post._ the wife of a vain man. 8vo., paper, $1 00; cloth, $1 50. in presenting to american readers the first translations of this author, who in her own country is universally popular, the publishers take pleasure in making public the following tribute of the great swedish lyric artiste, mlle. christine nilsson. new york, november 28, 1870. mademoiselle:--it is with great pleasure that i have learned that you, in conjunction with miss marie a. brown have undertaken to translate into english the magnificent works of madame schwartz. allow me then, dear mademoiselle, as a fervent admirer of madame schwartz, to offer you and miss brown my liveliest felicitations for having chosen an author of so immense merit to introduce to the american public a writer who has contributed to make the glory of our country. i wish you all the success you deserve, and beg you to be so kind as to send me a copy of the work as soon as it is published. accept, mademoiselle, as well as miss brown, my warmest sympathy and the assurance of my perfect consideration. christine nilsson. sold by all booksellers and newsdealers, and sent by mail postpaid on receipt of price. lee & shepard, publishers, boston. lee, shepard & dillingham, 47 and 49 greene st., n. y. yosemite and big tree groves in two days. important for tourists. _new route for 1871_, via the _visalia division of the central pacific railroad_, from lathrop, and from the terminus of the c. p. r. r. by stage, via mariposa and clark's or coulterville. for further information see page 58. the great geyser springs of california. these celebrated springs are the greatest natural curiosity in the world, and are reached by the napa valley route and the russian river valley route. _for particulars of these routes, see description in body of this guide._ the medicinal and curative properties of the geyser springs are admitted to be equal, if not superior, to calistoga, baden-baden, aix-la-chapel, wiesbaden, or homburg. the scenery is wild, picturesque and grand in the extreme, and finer than that of the lower alps. the pluton, or great sulphur creek, which runs by the geyser hotel, is well supplied with mountain trout; and the hills abound with deer and other game. the hotel is a large, two-story building, with spacious verandahs surrounding it, above and below, and has been newly furnished. new steam and sulphur bathhouses have been erected, and a large stable has been built. private teams can easily and safely drive over the new road from calistoga, and at the geysers will find an abundance of good feed for their horses. saddle horses for ladies and gentlemen, are always on hand, at reasonable prices. a good table is kept at the hotel, and the best of liquors and cigars will be found at the bar, the rooms are comfortable, and the beds are all new and provided with spring mattresses. board and lodging per day, $3; board and lodging per week, $17.50; single meals, each, $1.50. baths, 25. visiting the geyser canyons, for each person, $1. children under ten years of age, half price. visitors are requested not to pay the guides, as they are furnished by the hotel, free of charge. fare from san francisco to calistoga, per steamer and cars, $3.50. stages from there to the geysers, $6.00 per passage. j. c. susenbeth, p. s.--for further particulars, inquire at the office of j. s. polack, esq., room no. 1, n. w. corner of jackson and montgomery sts., san francisco. the shortest and _best route to yosemite_ via modesto. ross house, modesto. _jos. cole, proprietor._ tourists will find this house conducted in first-class style. charges moderate, and every attention paid to guests. stages leave this house daily for snelling's, hornitas, mariposa, yosemite, and all points south. _yosemite stables_, modesto, cal. _horses, carriages and saddle horses_ to let on reasonable terms. horses boarded with the best of care, by the day or week. _private teams furnished at the shortest notice; also two four or six horse turnouts furnished for tourists, with concord or kimball carriages, with careful and experienced drivers._ _f. h. ross, proprietor._ modesto is situated at the terminus of the visalia division of the c. p. r. r. the ross house, also the yosemite stables were built by f. h. ross, almost exclusively for the accommodation of tourists, and no pains will be spared to make their visit to the house, or transit to the valley comfortable and pleasant. revere house john w. sharp, proprietor. second street, opposite court house, _napa city_. only first-class house in napa city. this house is fitted up in superior style, and is now open for the reception of permanent and transient guests. it is built in modern style, and the rooms are large, airy and pleasant. the bar is well supplied. the table shall be second to none in the state. the farming community will find at this house the best of accommodations at reasonable prices. _american hotel_, _main street, petaluma_. mrs. wm. ordway, proprietress. this hotel, first-class in every particular, is the leading house in this city and one of the best hotels on the coast. the building is a large, three-story, fire-proof brick, situated in the center of the business part of the city, well ventilated, supplied with water and gas, perfectly arranged with a view to comfort and convenience, containing sixty three rooms, elegant parlor, pleasant reading room, first-class bar and billiard room, hair dressing saloon and cigar stand. the rooms, single and en-suite, are large, with high ceilings, well ventilated and elegantly furnished. the table is supplied with the best the market affords, prepared and served in first-class style. a livery stable is connected with the hotel. splendid carriages are furnished upon notice at the office. omnibuses convey guests to and from the hotel to cars and steamers, free of charge. stages from the city leave from this hotel. tourists, visiting the city, are shown every courtesy and attention in all departments of the hotel. for the very best photographs, go to bradley and rulofson, 429 montgomery street, _san francisco_. closed on sundays. the california ink company, 405 & 407 sansome street, san francisco. george l. faulkner, agent. are manufacturing writing inks of different colors, equal if not superior to those of eastern or foreign manufacture. for our black writing fluid, we claim: 1st.--that it will not corrode or clog the pen, but keep it always in a bright, clean condition. 2d.--that there is no sediment that can settle and impair the color. 3d.--that it flows freely from, and is of a rich, deep color as soon as it leaves the pen. 4th.--it is not affected by acids, as an acid that would remove the ink will eat up the paper. 5th.--it cannot be washed off with water. 6th.--it is a california production, and the manufacture of the same keeps thousands of dollars in the state, that have hitherto been sent abroad for ink. we also make a superior article of mucilage that cannot be excelled for its adhesive qualities. liquid laundry bluing.--a convenient and reliable preparation, to take the place of all others hitherto used for laundry purposes. put up in 8 oz. bottles and gallon jars. the attention of the trade is respectfully solicited to these manufactures. perfect satisfaction guaranteed. refer, by permission, to messrs. a. l. bancroft & company, who are selling large quantities of our writing inks and mucilage. california ink company, geo. l. faulkner, agent. satisfaction in all cases guaranteed. _ask your stationer for_ eagle pencils. these pencils, which have been before the american public for several years, are rapidly growing in popularity, and are to-day more extensively used in the united states than any other. and are pronounced by all who have given them a fair trial, to be inferior to none manufactured, and are sold at prices materially lower than are other first-class articles. office rubber-head pencils are very much liked by business men. eagle drawing pencils are recommended in the drawing books now in use in the state of california, and by drawing teachers, and others. eagle diamond rubber is the best manufactured. sold by booksellers & stationers generally. and at wholesale and retail by a. l. bancroft & company, _booksellers and stationers_ 721 market st., san francisco. [illustration: rudolf eitner, designer and engraver on wood, 629 clay street, san francisco.] jos. figel, clothier, merchant tailor _and dealer in_ men's and boys' clothing, furnishing goods, trunks, &c. 211 montgomery street, _russ block, opposite platt's hall_, would respectfully invite the attention of the public to his superior stock of goods, feeling confident that he can suit, both in regard to price and quality. _a feature_ in his business is the particular attention paid to the manufacture of men's and boys' clothing, college and military uniforms of every description to order, from a large assortment of cloths, cassimeres, beavers, scotch tweed, etc. elegance of style and perfection of fit are in all cases guaranteed. a visit to my establishment will convince you of my ability to please in every respect. jos. figel, no. 211 montgomery street, san francisco, california. established in 1852. l. p. fisher's advertising agency. _rooms 20 & 21 merchants' exchange_ california st., san francisco. _agent for the sacramento union._ "advertising is the oil which wise men put in their lamps." --_modern proverb._ _girard's secret._ stephen girard, than whom no shrewder business man ever lived, used to say in his old age: "i have always considered advertising liberally and long to be the great medium of success in business and prelude to wealth. and i have made it an invariable rule, too, to advertise in the dullest times, as well as in the busiest, long experience having taught me that money thus spent is well laid out; as by keeping my business continually before the public, it has secured many sales that i otherwise would have lost." advertisements and subscriptions solicited for papers published in california and oregon, washington, utah, idaho, montana, colorado, arizona and adjacent territories; sandwich islands, the british possessions, mexican ports, nicaragua, panama, valparaiso, japan, china, europe, australia, atlantic states, etc., etc. n. b.--for sale; bound volumes of the _sacramento union_, from sept. 19th, 1855, to the present time; also, the _san francisco evening bulletin_, in bound volumes, from the beginning of its publication to the present time. san francisco mills. hobbs, gilmore & co. _manufacturers of boxes_, also, sawing and planing mills, _market, beale and main sts._ san francisco. san pedro street, near depot, san jose. _for sale_; spanish cedar, mahogany, and other fancy wood. we are now manufacturing, and will receive orders for the manufacture of different kinds of agricultural machines. _for fine hats_ go to j. c. meussdorffer. north east corner of montgomery & bush sts. _san francisco_. [illustration: occidental hotel montgomery st san francisco, cal.] george t. pracy, machine works, 109 & 111 mission street, san francisco. these works have lately been increased, by additional tools, and we are now able to turn out any kind of work, equal to and cheaper than any establishment in the state, that is to say:-steam engines, flour and saw mills, quartz machinery, printing presses, and machinery made of every description. _improved safety store hoists_, fitted with cutting's patent cams, unequaled for safety, convenience and cheapness. this hoist can be built for about half the price of any other in use. to be seen at hawley & co's. also, manufacturer and sole agent for pracy's celebrated governor. turning lathes, &c constantly on hand. h. rosekrans. s. read. h. rosekrans & co. importers and dealers in hardware, builders' materials, carpenters' tools, _house-furnishing utensils_, and all kinds of shelf hardware, _135 montgomery street_ near bush street, san francisco. [illustration: piano] sherman & hyde, _importers and dealers in_ sheet music pianos, organs, and _musical merchandise of every description_ corner kearny & sutter streets, san francisco, cal. send your orders directly to us. remember it is no more trouble or expense to send sheet music by mail, one thousand miles than it is one mile. music teachers, seminaries and dealers liberally dealt with. thurnauer & zinn, [illustration: wicker chairs and baskets] importers of french and german fancy baskets, english and american willow ware, _toys, fancy goods_ and yankee notions, cane and willow chairs, ladies' work stands, wooden ware, feather dusters, brushes, etc., etc., etc. _533 market street_, opposite sutter and sansome streets, san francisco. the shortest and best route to yosemite valley. _c. p. r. r. to modesto, thence by stage to coulterville, bower cave, pilot peak and crane flat._ leaves modesto on tuesday, thursday and saturday at 5 o'clock, a.m., arrives at coulterville at 2 p.m.; distance 50 miles; leaving coulterville at 4 p.m., arrive at bower cave, at 7 p.m. next morning leave bower cave at 6 a.m., and arrive at crane flat at 11 a.m. take saddle horse and arrive at the hotels in the valley, at 4 o'clock, p.m., 15 miles horseback. returning, leave yosemite at 7 o'clock, a.m., distance, 46 miles, arrive at coulterville at 5 o'clock, p.m., leave coulterville at 5 a.m., arrive at modesto, at 4 o'clock p.m. the above route is superior to all others, as there is less time consumed on the road, more rest, and the whole route gives finer scenery than by any other, from the fact that after you strike the foot hills, you pass along the dividing ridge between the tuolumne and merced rivers, to the east, the sierra nevada, with castle peak, mount dames, and other prominent points, to the west, is the san joaquin, and the coast range; also less dust than any other route, as the route is east and west, and the north winds that are almost constantly blowing, carry the dust from you. and as a round trip is always desirable; parties can go by coulterville, and out _via_ big trees and mariposa, or _vice versa_. by the first of june, there will be but 2½ miles horseback riding into the valley. the nights at bower cave are cool and refreshing, unsurpassed on the whole route. through tickets for sale at all the railroad offices, sacramento and lathrop. _g. w. coulter, agent._ office at c. b.& m; r. r. r. office 214 montg'y street. valuable books, _for children and youth._ published by _andrew f. graves,_ 20 cornhill, boston, mass. the sunshine series.--by h. n. w. b. six volumes. 18mo., $3.60 this is an entirely new series of books, by one of the best writers of juvenile books. they are put up in a neat box, and will be found excellent for the "sabbath school library." amy garnett. one vol., 16 mo. $1.25 lynda newton.--by mrs. l. j. h. frost. 16 mo., 1.50 an excellent book, and one which will interest every one. davy's motto. 16 mo., 1.25 it is better to do well than to say well is the motto. joe and the howards; or armed with eyes. by carl. 16 mo. 1.25 it gives much valuable information in regard to insects, both on land and water, in such a manner as cannot fail to amuse children, while it is storing their minds with that which is useful for them to know. the rainford series.--by glance gaylord. four volumes in box, $6.00 the woodbine series.--by mrs. madeline leslie. 16mo. illustrated, $1.25 this is an entire new set, by a very popular author. other volumes will be issued from time to time. the title pages are printed in colors. the arlington series. 4 vols., 16mo. four volumes in box, $5.50 the percy family.--by rev. d. c. eddy, d. d. five volumes with neat box, 5.00 the cedar brook stories, or the clifford children. by mrs. a. s. m., author of "only a pauper." 5 vols. 18mo. the five volumes handsomely illustrated in a neat box with illuminated covers, 3.25 corwin's west's series.--6 vols. in a box, 4.50 have you read the _new prize books._ both sides of the street, ($600) $1.60 moth and rust, ($300) $1.60 fourteenth thousand now ready. digging a grave with a wine-glass. and the first glass of wine. simple texts are sometimes more effective preachers than sermons, or whole volumes of well conceived essays. read the two stories within the covers of this book, kind reader, and if a first glass of wine tempt you, let the prayer go forth, "lead us not into temptation." beautifully illustrated. price $1.25. down in a saloon; or the minister's protege. by the author of the new $600.00 prize book, "both sides of the street." beautifully bound in gold and black, and sent prepaid by mail. price, $1.50 for sale by all booksellers. _henry hoyt_, no. 9 cornhill, boston. for sale by a. l. bancroft & co. books of travel. published by _lee & shepard, boston_. _a readable book on california._ the sunset land; or, the great pacific slope. by rev. john todd, d. d. 1 vol. 16mo. $1 50 the press all over the country has given this book by dr. todd, the warmest praise. it contains, in a small compass, just what all desire to know of california. _the "heathen chinee," at home and abroad._ why and how the chinese emigrate, and the means they adopt for the purpose of reaching america. by col. russell h. conwell. 12mo. cloth. illustrated. $1 50 "nothing is wanting in mr. conwell's book for a clear apprehension of every feature of his subject."--_christian union._ _our new possessions surveyed._ alaska and its resources. by wm. h. dall, director of the scientific corps of the late western union telegraph expedition. one large octavo volume, $7 50 this is the only complete history of our newly acquired possessions published. the narrative is one of actual experience during a three years' residence in the country. _a graphic and truthful history._ history of paraguay. with notes of personal observations and reminiscences of diplomacy under difficulties. by charles a. washburn, commissioner and minister resident of the united states at asuncion, from 1861 to 1868. in two volumes. octavo. illustrated with maps and engravings. $7 50 "a history stranger than many works of fiction, abounding in incidents of devoted heroism, and fearful cruelty."--_chicago post._ _a journalist in europe._ over the ocean; or, sights and scenes in foreign lands. by curtis guild, editor of the "commercial bulletin," boston. crown 8vo. $2 50 "mr. curtis guild has given the public a book of travel such as they may search for elsewhere in vain."--_boston post._ sold by all booksellers and newsdealers, and sent by mail postpaid, on receipt of price. lee & shepard, publishers, boston. lee, shepard & dillingham, n. y. get the best books _for the children_. effie wingate's work. by mary dwinell chellis, $1.50 dea. sim's prayers. by mary dwinell chellis, 1.50 pleasant pages and bible pictures, 20 illustrations; 1.50 carl bartlett or what can i do? by d. s. ericson, 1 vol. 1.25 bill drock's investment. by mary dwinell chellis, 1 vol. 1.50 the old doctor's son. by mary dwinell chellis, 1.50 mr. pendleton's cup. by glance gaylord, 1.25 miss patience hathaway. by glance gaylord, 1.50 donald deane. by glance gaylord, 1.50 good measure. a story for boys. by d. s. ericson, 1.50 clean your boots, sir? a capital story for boys, .60 the little peanut merchant, 1.25 molly's bible. by miss mary d. chellis, 1.50 truth and trust, or iron mountain, 1.25 hopes and fears, or broad oaks, 1.25 good for evil, or rose cottage, 1.25 sidney de grey, or the rival school boys. by lawrence lancewood, 1.25 nellie warren, or the lost watch. by lawrence lancewood, esq., 1.25 louis sinclair. by lawrence lancewood, esq., 1.25 mark dunning's enemy. by mary dwinell chellis, 1.50 the hermit of holcombe. by mary dwinell chellis, 1.50 breaking the rules, 1.25 earl whiting, 1.25 the runaway boy, 1.25 nellie milton's housekeeping, 1.25 brownie sandford, 1.25 sylvia's burden, 1.25 ruth lovell, 1.25 cousin clara. by lawrence lancewood, 1.25 jamie noble, 1.25 peter clinton. by lawrence lancewood, 1.25 a hole in the pocket. by aunt hattie, 1.25 stopping the leak. by aunt hattie, 1.25 lost but found. by aunt hattie, 1.25 fashion and folly. by aunt hattie, 1.25 gypsy breynton. by miss e. stuart phelps, 1.25 gypsy's cousin joy. by miss e stuart phelps, 1.25 gypsy's sowing and reaping. by miss e. stuart phelps, 1.25 gypsy's year at the golden crescent. by miss e. stuart phelps, 1.25 published by _henry a. young & co._ _guide books_ for travelers, published by _d. appleton & company._ appletons' european guide book.--including england, scotland and ireland, france, belgium, holland, northern and southern germany, switzerland, italy, spain and portugal, russia, denmark, norway and sweden. containing a map of europe, and nine other maps, with plans of 20 of the principal cities, and more than 120 engravings. one vol., thick 12mo, morocco, tuck, gilt edges. $6.00 "this is a curious, a useful and an interesting book--a veritable directory of travel, of immense value to the american tourists visiting the old world for the first time, and to the native of britain newly exploring the continent."--_london examiner and review._ "'appletons' european guide book' is a compact manual for the foreign traveler, crowding a great variety of information into a small compass, by a rigorous brevity of statement, and the omission of all irrelevant details."--_new york tribune._ "'appletons' guide' is likely to create a stir among those with which travelers are familiar. it is cheap, considering that it condenses the united kingdom and all the continent of europe, giving a large map, and nine others, with plans of 20 of the principal cities, and 120 engravings, for a guinea."--_anglo-american times._ appletons' railway guide.--containing maps of the principal railways in the united states and the canadas, and a general map. appletons' northern and eastern guide-book.--containing an account of the principal watering-places and summer resorts in the new england and middle states. a new edition with revisions to date. $2.00 appletons' western guide-book.--containing all through routes to the west and all land routes. the completest work of the kind published. (_will be published early in may._) skeleton routes through england, scotland, ireland, wales, denmark, norway, sweden, russia, poland and spain; with various ways of getting from place to place, the time occupied, and the cost of each journey for a party of four, with some of the principal things to see. 12mo. $1.00 new york illustrated.--with 48 illustrations and a map, from drawings made by the best artists. the most complete illustrated memento of new york ever published. 8vo. price, 50 cents; cloth, $1.00 either of the above sent _post paid_, _by mail_, to any address, on receipt of the price. d. appleton & co., publishers, new york. books published by j. s. redfield, 140 fulton street, new york. i. modern women and what is said of them. a reprint of a series of articles in _the saturday review_, with an introduction by mrs. lucia gilbert calhoun. _first series._ in one volume, 12mo, handsomely printed and bound in cloth, beveled $2.00 ii. modern women and what is said of them. a series of articles reprinted from _the saturday review_. _second series._ in one volume, 12mo, 400 pp. uniform with first series. $2.00 iii. tribune essays. leading articles contributed to _the new york tribune_, from 1857 to 1863. by charles t. congdon, with an introduction by horace greeley. in one volume, 12mo, 400 pp. extra cloth. $1.50 iv hand-book of progressive philosophy. by edward schiller. one volume, 12mo, extra cloth. $1.50 walt whitman's books: v. leaves of grass. a new edition, with additions and revisions. one volume, 12mo, paper, uncut. $2.50 vi. passage to india. a sequel to "leaves of grass." one volume, 12mo, paper, uncut. $1.00 vii. democratic vistas (prose). one volume, 12mo, paper. .75 viii. conjugal sins against the laws of life and health, and their effects upon the father, mother and child. by a. k. gardner, a. m., m. d. in one volume, 12mo. paper cover, $1.00; bound, $1.50 ix. on the uses of wines in health and disease. by francis e. anstie, m. d., f. r. c. p. paper .50 x. modern palmistry; or the book of the hand. chiefly according to the systems of d'arpentigny and desbarrolles, with some account of the gipsies. by a. r. craig, m. a., with illustrations. extra cloth. $1.75 xi. the kidney and its diseases. by dr. e. h. dickson. paper. .25 xii. redfield's half-dime, vest pocket city maps. new york, now ready. xiii. little breeches, by john hay, illustrated by j. f. engel. beautifully done and printed by photo-lithography. .25 works on phrenology. new physiognomy; or signs of character, as manifested through temperament and external forms, and especially in the "human face divine." 1000 illustrations. by s. r. wells. prices, $5, $8 and $10. how to read character. a new illustrated hand-book of phrenology and physiognomy, for students and examiners, with a chart for the delineation of character. 170 engravings. latest and best. for practical phrenologist. paper, $1. muslin, $1.25. education and self improvement complete. physiology--animal and mental; self-culture; memory and intellectual improvement. one volume, $4. lectures on phrenology. by geo. combe. phrenological mode of investigation. one volume, 12mo. $1.75. constitution of man. considered in relation to external objects revised. by geo. combe. 20 engravings and portrait of author. $1.75 moral philosophy. by geo. combe. or, the duties of man considered in his individual, domestic and social capacities. latest revised edition, $1.75. mental science. according to the philosophy of phrenology. lectures by g. s. weaver. $1.50. annuals of phrenology and physiognomy for 1865, '66, '67, '68, '69, '70, '71. containing 400 pages, many portraits and biographies, with "how to study phrenology." the seven bound in one. $1.50. phrenology proved, illustrated and applied. first principles. illustrated. $1.75. phrenological busts. classification and location of the organs of the brain, fully developed. designed for learners. two sizes, the largest in box, $2. the smaller, at $1. (sent by express.) education: its elementary principles founded on the nature of man. by spurzheim. excellent. $1.50. defence of phrenology, $1.50. natural laws, man, 75cts. self-instructor, 75cts. phrenology and the scripture, 25cts. chart of physiognomy, 25cts. how to write--how to talk--how to behave--how to do business. bound in one large handsome volume, post paid, $2.25. it is a capital book for agents. sent by mail, post-paid, on receipt of price, by s. r. wells, publisher, 389 broadway. agents wanted. n. b.--for sale by a. l. bancroft & co., san francisco, california. standard school books published and for sale by charles desilver, no. 1229 chestnut street, philadelphia. and by booksellers generally throughout the union and the canadas. _descriptive catalogues furnished on application, and any book sent by mail postage paid, on receipt of the advertised price._ _standard speakers._ sargent's standard speaker, half roan, $2 50 sargent's intermediate standard speaker, half-turkey morocco, 2 00 sargent's primary standard speaker, half-roan, 60 sargent's selections in poetry, half-morocco, 1 50 frost's american speaker, half-roan, 1 68 _standard school histories._ lord's history of the united states, half-morocco, 1 68 lord's modern history, half-morocco, 2 25 summary of history, designed to accompany lord's modern history. 1 vol., 12mo., cloth, 60 frost's history of the united states. 12mo., half roan, 1 68 frost's history of the united states, royal 18mo., half-roan, 1 00 history of england, pinnock's improved edition of goldsmith, revised by w. c. taylor, ll. d., 1 vol. 12mo., half roan, 1 75 history of france, by w. c. taylor, ll. d., 1 vol. 12mo., half-roan, 1 75 history of rome, pinnock's improved edition of goldsmith, revised by w. c. taylor, ll. d., 1 vol. 12mo., half-roan, 1 75 _natural sciences._ johnston's turner's chemistry, half turkey, 2 50 johnston's turner's elements of chemistry, 1 vol. 12mo., half-morocco, 1 68 johnston's natural philosophy, 1 vol. 12mo., half-turkey morocco, 1 75 johnston's primary natural philosophy, 1 vol. 18mo., half-roan, 75 guy's astronomy and keith on the globes, 1 vol. 12mo., half-roan, 1 25 _classical works._ virgil, cæsar, horace, cicero, sallust, ovid, juvenal, half-turkey morocco, each, 2 25 xenophon's anabasis, and homer's iliad, half-turkey morocco, each, 2 75 clarke's practical and progressive latin grammar, half-turkey morocco, 1 75 gospel of st. john, translation with the original greek text, 2 75 livy. interlinear translation by hamilton and clarke. (_in press._) _to be followed by school editions of other classic authors on the same plan._ for sale by a. l. bancroft & co, 721 market st., san francisco, cal. kay & brother, law publishers, booksellers and importers, 17 & 19 south sixth street, philadelphia. publish brightly's digest of the laws of the united states, 2 vols. 8vo. $16.50 brightly's digest of federal decisions, 2 vols. 8vo. 13.50 brightly's bankrupt law, 8vo. 3.00 wharton's american criminal law, 3 vols. 8vo. 22.50 wharton's precedents of indictments and pleas, 2 vols. 8vo. 15.00 wharton's law dictionary, 8vo. 7.50 wharton's conflict of laws, or private international law, 8vo. (in preparation.) wharton and stelle's medical jurisprudence, 8vo. 8.00 hilliard on injunctions, 8vo. 7.50 hilliard on new trials, 8vo. 7.50 hilliard on contracts, 2 vols. 8vo. (in preparation.) pennsylvania state reports, vols. 13 to 63; 51 vols., 8vo. per vol. 4.50 etc., etc., etc., etc. kay & brother always keep on hand a full assortment of the current law publications, together with many books now either scarce or out of print, at the very lowest prices. letters of inquiry promptly answered. big trees, calaveras county, california, first-class hotel accommodations, sperry & perry, proprietors. the calaveras group is the one known to the world as the big trees of california, and the one chiefly visited by tourists. it comprises the mammoth and the south park groves. the mammoth grove contains ninety-three of these _giants of the forest_, among which are the mother of the forest, the bark from which was exhibited in the crystal palace, london; the father of the forest, through whose prostrate trunk thousands have ridden on horseback; and the original big tree, the stump of which forms the floor of the famous pavilion, thirty-two feet in diameter. the south park grove, six miles distant, has thirteen hundred and eighty of these trees, many of them of immense size. one, still standing and growing, has the inner portion at the base burned out, making a room large enough to contain sixteen men on horseback at the same time; and yet, enough of the outer rim of the tree is left to support the colossal proportions above. the calaveras group surpasses all others in the grandeur and beauty of its trees, and is the only one having hotel accommodations. tourists leaving stockton will take the cars of the copperopolis railroad at 9 o'clock, a.m., to milton, twenty-eight miles, connecting with a daily line of concord coaches via winthrop's, for the big trees, making the entire distance in ten hours. at murphy's, stages leave daily for yosemite valley per hutching's new route, being the shortest and best to yosemite valley. a daily line of coaches leave galt for the big trees. at melton, and murphy's, private conveyances can be obtained for the big trees and yosemite valley, at low rates. thomas houseworth, agent, _317 and 319 montgomery st., san francisco_. new hotel. gilroy. the proprietors take pleasure in informing the public generally that they have opened the new hotel, the hanna house. situated in the business centre of the city, near the r. r. depot, and fitted up in elegant style, and being thoroughly experienced in the business, can promise their patrons such attention and accommodations as are found in a first-class house. everything about the house is entirely new, and of the best quality. the hotel coach will be in constant attendance to convey passengers to and from the house free of charge. the patronage of the public is respectfully solicited. j. a. gordon & co., proprietors. city livery and sale stables, 332 bush street, _bet. montgomery and kearny, san francisco._ m. magner, proprietor. an entire new stock of fine young horses, sound and free from vice, of fine style, and capable of going as fast as any gentleman cares to drive. also new and elegant wagons of all descriptions, which i will let to responsible parties at popular prices. _saddle horses for ladies and gentlemen_, horses boarded with the very best of care, under my own supervision, at _prices to suit the times_. patronage respectfully solicited. m. magner, _formerly of the el dorado stables, stockton._ private teams furnished for the big tree grove and yosemite falls, to start from stockton, or the terminus of the visalia or copperopolis railroad. [illustration: grand hotel] grand hotel. johnson & co., proprietors. san francisco, california. samuel kellett, manufacturer of plaster decorations, no. 763 market street, san francisco. new york livery stable. [illustration] crittenden & dalton, proprietors. 712 mission street, near third, _opposite dr. scudder's church, san francisco._ four in hand for cliff house. orders left at the office of grand hotel promptly attended to. [illustration: auzerais house san jose cal.] h. s. greeley, manager, formerly of the occidental, san francisco. new york exchange hotel, san jose. first street, corner st. johns. _centrally located, newly furnished._ bath and billiard rooms, with barber shop attached. _board, with rooms, $2 a day,_ or $12.00 a week. _suites, $4 a day, or $20 a week._ the new yosemite hotel, _fred. leidig & hugh davanay_, proprietors. this fine new hotel is the first which the tourist reaches on entering the valley, and is situated on the south bank of the merced, in front of cathedral rock, about three miles from the entrance to the valley. the main building is two stories in height, roomy, new and clean, plenty of pleasant, airy bedrooms. table supplied with fresh mountain trout in abundance, in addition to fresh butter, milk, eggs, fruit and every other luxury of the mountains. a splendid stock of ice has been laid in for the comfort of summer visitors--a luxury not to be had elsewhere in the valley. bar well stocked with best qualities of wines, liquors and cigars. the famous yosemite hostess, mrs. leidig, has charge of the domestic arrangements of the house, and the proprietors, in person, give their whole attention to the accommodation of their guests. oakland! taylor's carpet store, cor. broadway and tenth sts., oakland, cal. carpets, oil cloth, paper hangings and upholstery goods. body brussels, tapestry brussels, three ply, ingrain and hemp carpets. oil cloths, all width and qualities. paper hangings, all styles and grades. plain and decorative paper hanging in all its branches. a full and complete line of upholstery goods always in stock. parties residing in oakland and vicinity, and those contemplating removing to oakland, will do well to call and examine our stock before purchasing elsewhere. _we sell all goods at san francisco prices!_ chas. l. taylor, _cor. broadway and tenth streets, oakland_. yosemite house. stockton, cal. _alexander mcbean, prop'r._ new first-class hotel. _main street, bet. san jose and sutter._ centrally located, finely furnished. bath rooms, barber shop and billiard room attached, excellent table, fine rooms, gas and water throughout. terms; $2.50 a day, $15.00 a week. free coach to the house. loring's railway novels! we commend them to all travelers. ask for them at the bookstores, at the depot news stands, of the boys in the cars, and on the boats. loring's successful books: louise m. alcott's moods, $1.25 " " three proverb stories, .75 virginia f. townsend's hollands, 1.25 " " the mills of tuxbury, 1.25 laura caxton's marion berkley, 1.50 george mcdonald's robert falconer, 2.00 " " david elginbrod, 1.75 " " adele cathcart, 1.75 " " phantasies, 1.75 mrs. a. d. t. whitney's hitherto, 2.00 " " " the gayworthys, 2.00 " " " patience strong's outings, 1.75 " " " mother goose for grown folks, 1.50 " " " faith gartney's girlhood, 1.50 henry g. hanks, assayer and chemist, and dealer in fine minerals, fossils, shells, etc., etc., etc. invites tourists visiting san francisco to call and examine his collection at 649 clay street, (up stairs.) teams and saddle horses. church & wallace, 386 first street, san jose. single horse and buggy to almaden mine, $5 00 elegant double teams, 10 00 saddle horses, 2 50 _teams ordered by telegraph, will be on hand at the railway depot._ woodward's gardens, mission st., bet. 13th and 14th, san francisco, cal. [illustration: the central park of the pacific. (see page 130.)] _yosemite and big tree groves via mariposa and clark's or coulterville._ thus a person can leave sacramento at noon, or san francisco at 4 p. m. by the c. p. r. r., remain over night at the junction of the rail and stage roads, the second night at white & hatch's and arrive in the valley of the yosemite the next evening; or those who prefer can remain that night at clark's and ride leisurely into the valley early the next day. the latter course might be preferable to the majority of tourists, who would desire to visit en route the mariposa grove of big trees, which is but five miles from clark's. the trail from clark's leads through alder creek, empire camp, sentinel dome, glacier point, and the far-famed "inspiration point." from the latter is obtained the first grand view of this wonderful valley, lying four thousand feet below the "point." lake tahoe, via stage fourteen miles from truckee donner lake, three miles from either truckee or summit. calaveras big trees, via stage, sixty-five miles from galt, or sixty-two miles from mokelumne _through tickets:_ c. p. r. r.: office, 422 california street. " " " --oakland wharf. c. & n. w. ry. " 445 california street. c. b. & m. r. r. " 214 montgomery street. c. r. i. & p. r. r. " 208 montgomery street. k. c. st. j. & c. b. r. r. office, 306 mont. st. 